May 21, 2012
May 24th happens to be the third annually designated Chardonnay Day so this quintet of quality gold comes in right on cue. This a marketing concept using social media as the thread that connects the global conversation together. All the while raising a glass to Chardonnay’s continued ascension back to global prominence.
Closson Chase K.J. Watson Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (230912, $34.95) teaches an elementary lesson in Upper Canada terrior. The best Chard sites along the Niagara River grow fierce, fighting vines, in turn producing “green tiger” grapes of great colour. The Watson is viscous, with aromatics as if Stag’s Leap Viognier, where white peach and rock lobster are fruggin’ on the beach at cocktail hour. “Pass the tanning butter.” 90
Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2010 (251223, $74.95) of laser focus allows the complex nature of this cuvée to “glitter, glisten, gloss, floss.” The Sonoma Noisetiers is often hazy hued as is the nature of its unfined and unfiltered ways but here in’10 it’s metallic, shiny, scaled back a notch and open to the whole world. Less nut, more gold and very focused. My favourite to date. 91
Mount Eden Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (17988, $25.95) is a toddler as compared to its extraordinary adult, Santa Cruz cousin. This SV was the wolf’s howl back when it came in under $20. It is worth admitting that junior is heavy on the toasty BTU’s, green apple core, band aid and tang the juice (sorry, drink) crystal. 87
Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010 (903617, $20.95) darts to and fro like a cat. Intense, verdigris, cheeky CVR**and soft as banana cream pie. Oscillates but has remarkable balance and Margaret River reflexes, landing on all fours. Length to cure an odd coupling thirst and ‘unger. 89
Domaine Chenevières Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2009 (277921, $29.95) the bittersweet symphony traverses a grippy, yellow moonscape. Tart pears and peppery spice drift in the zero gravity air but do not persist. The lack of verve renders this Fourchaume weightless and down to earth. A Burgundian urban hymn. 88
Good to Go!
IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio
CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-To-Value Ratio