Martina Molino
Back in March of 2024 during Godello’s most recent dash through the Prowein Wine Fair there was an unforgettable one hour sit down and reconnect with Martina Molino and Sara Cortese of La Morra’s Maura Molino. The Molino story may only officially date to 1973 but their’s is a pivotal one because of the early focus and dedication on viticulture. Martina Molino’s brother Matteo started with the family in 2003 and she studied oenology in Alba, graduating in 2008. She followed up with further studies in economics, then joined Molino in 2010. Today Martina is the head oenologist responsible for some of Barolo’s most forward thinking nebbiolo that maintain a link to the tradition her father heeded and helped to develop. Mauro Molino is one of the region’s neo-modern pioneers who helped make certain that Langhe Nebbiolo DOC and Barolo DOCG wines could and would evolve. Molino made this happen favourably with smart agricultural but also risk-taking decisions and his legacy will be remembered for establishing a respectful and visionary way of ushering Piedmontese vineyards and wines into the present. Martina’s firm grasp of the reigns sees her family’s wines take on a whole and more profound meaning because of her uncanny ability to tame varietal austerity without compromising structural integrity. A coherence run through the portfolio sees to maturity at the measured pace of great nebbiolo.
At Prowein Wine Fair
The Nebbiolo
The Langhe Nebbiolo is from Roero in the village of Gueda. There are five Barolo, beginning with the “Villages” which comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri, with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. Gallinotto is a sub-parcel of the MGA Beri (“Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, or Additional Geographical Mention), a long underestimated and abandoned area where people thought Mauro Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation. Yet he made the discovery before deciding to research, invest in and resurrect the vineyard. Beri could be the “helmut,” or perhaps “a small chicken,” from Piedmontese dialect, now also Italian. Truth is Gallinotto comes from the nearby hamlet of the same name. La Serra is an historically important cru in La Morra and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Bricco Luciani is the vineyard in the hamlet of Annunziata in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. One of the most prestigious Cru of La Morra, part of the old estate of the nearby convent of Marcenasco.
The Tasting
Mauro Molino Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2022
“A wine that should always have its own identity, not a de-classified Barolo,” insists Martina Molino. From Roero in the village of Gueda. The nebbiolo has been made from this paese from the beginning. Sandy but not like Canale and the aromas, but also the favours deliver a calcareous sensation, a sweet metallic profile that’s almost, but not quite bloody. Just a matter of a feeling bled from finely decomposed soil and so the lightness of this wine’s hue, its gentle florals and soft tannins complete the ideal. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024
A “Villages” styled example from the La Morra estate in supply of top quality fruit so proficient for a rifornimento of the Molino Classico. A part comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. At once clean and fresh then also a touch baritone and down to earth. Should you find yourself in a wine shop staring down a crowded section of villages-designate Barolo then feel confident to choose Molino because of its quintessentially honest character and style. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024
Mauro Molino Barolo Gallinoto 2020, La Morra
From a parcel within the Beri MGA, an abandoned area that Mauro Molino discovered and decided to research, invest in and resurrect. A place where people thought Senore Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation but the small plot that makes 8,000 bottles has evolved into a magnificent place to make Barolo. The “helmut” of Beri, at 380-400m and no protection from the elements swirling in from the surrounding hills. Breezy place of winds both hot and then running cold that make for nebbiolo of spicy and almost white peppery notes. Silken, just now settling and agreeable tannins make for a balanced Barolo that will also live long. Gallinotto is exceptional no matter how you consider, asses or confirm it. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted March 2024
Martina Molino and Sara Cortese
Mauro Molino Barolo Bricco Luciani 2020, La Morra
The vineyard in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Very different, in fact an about face type of nebbiolo as compared to Gallinotto. A sandy and calcareous soil tranlasted to nebbiolo that is so very La Moresse, lithe and elegant but also earthy as per its terroir. Stricter tannins though not too much tension, but yes a fine austerity that means wait two years and drink for 10 after that. At this stage the wine unfurls and unrolls, with a pregnant pause, just one minute after it is gone. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted March 2024
Mauro Molino Barolo La Serra 2020, La Morra
First vintage of La Serra was 2010 and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. One of the more popular but also diverse cru in La Morra. Different from top to bottom and side to side, high elevation like Gallinotto but in this case protected by the surrounding hills. Only 2,700 bottles made and its vines average age is 55. Austerity but more breadth and depth to the tannin with a bursting fleshiness to this nebbiolo, broad and impressive, muscular and patented. Serious wine. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted March 2024
Mauro Molino Barolo Conca 2020, La Morra
So, Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. Richest and most fruit generous but also the biggest or broadest tannic profile of them all, with spiciness, sharp acidity and far reaching potential. A little bit of everything found in the other Cru Barolo are here in Conca. You feel more wood here but also the completeness theory in action. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted March 2024
Quite the powerful entry which indicates higher alcohol but also ripeness by way of both sugar and phenolic concentration. Huge fruit, substantial and laden with pectin, glycerol and texture. Modern Barolo to be sure, a nebbiolo that’s fruit first and just enough structure to see it go for eight to 12 years or so, not likely many more than 15. If it’s well priced it will entice and exist as a great cellar defender to please a great many folks. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024
Good to go!
Martina Molino
Godello 