Monthly Archives: August 2023

Four producers showcase Santorini’s best

Master Sommelier and WineAlign critic John Szabo presents Wines of Santorini

I have not made a volcanic pilgrimage to Greece in some time and so happy times abound when the basaltic magma terroir of Santorini comes to town. A George Restaurant welcome to four archetypal producers stamped a guarantee for a great tasting day back in May, first and foremost through a masterful masterclass as an in depth look at PDO Santorini. This was followed by a meet and greet with more of that volcanic island’s wines, their collective bar raised by Chef Lorenzo Loreto’s always creative snacks. All the thank-yous go out to Sofia Perpera of Wines of Greece, my colleague John Szabo M.S., the importing agents here in Ontario and of course the visiting producers. There were 11 PDO Santorini wines poured for the class and these are my notes.

Santo Wines Assyrtiko Organic 2022

Should likely be immovable when this young in an assyrtiko prominently phenolic as it is defined by its dry extract. The vines are 60-80 years old from Pyrgos, Eco Gonia, Faros Akrotiriou and Imerovigli. Alcohol generous but not exaggerated at 13.2 while both acidity (6.1 g/L) and pH (2.91) are on the low end of the assyrtiko spectrum. Solid and exemplary cooperative wine, representative of 50 per cent of the entire production of the island. As much a matter of tang as it is volcanic originated salinity. In the end this is preparing for readiness to drink well ahead of most of the island’s varietal wines. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted April 2023

Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2022

Vines are 60-plus years of age and the assyrtiko juice ages three months in only stainless steel with “occasional” bâtonnage. Alcohol is a reflection of a prolific vintage and acidity is on the low side while conversely pH sits higher, above three. Makes for a sapid assyrtiko which of course can also be salty but this is surely more a matter of texture by a wine that wholly, fully and completely covers the entirety of the palate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2023

Gaia Wines Thalassitis 2022

Seventy to 80 year-old vines, stratospheric acidity and bold alcohol make for a dichotomous assyrtiko that also expresses clean, grapefruit and white peppery reduction. Strictly stainless steel aged accompanied by necessary lees addendum and this was handled so properly to ride the new wave stylistic. The mouthfeel is extraordinary, the wine is predicated on texture, just now getting ready to roll but also capable of aging well. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Argyros Estate Assyrtiko 2021

The Estate by Argyros, largest of the private producers on Santorini is the most generous and substantial of them all. Everything is elevated in this gregarious wine coming from 100-120 year-old untrained bush vines. Big alcohol towards 14 and a half percent, leading towards high acidity but also grander of pH. These are not white wines subjected to vintage variation so this is indeed the norm for assyrtiko and Santorini. This is quite honestly the centre of the Santorini universe and no other wine represents with more estate esteem than this teachable one. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Argyros Estate Cuvée Monsignori 2020

Do not adjust your set but yes this is assyrtiko from 200-plus year-old vines growing in the central-south area of Episkopi. Specs are actually quite similar to the Estate but the dry extract level is just about 25 which is extraordinary for white wines anywhere. Longer lees aging of 11 months between harvest is necessary to keep up with the concentration and intensity of this unicorn assyrtiko. Salinity and volcanic interpretation are off the charts. Easily one of the top white values on the planet. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted May 2023

Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2021

Assyrtiko through and through, vines 70-80 years of age with three century root systems. Big, high acid and also relatively elevated with pH above three. Wild ferment and wood three ways; French, Acacia and American, all 225 size barriques. Flinty, barrel effected now but enough subtlety to tell us that integration will be done and without complication. This assyrtiko really settles upon and melds with the palate, like a dissolving salve of light caramel, fennel pollen and fiddlehead dust. Herbal and then lemon all over the back end, with a taste of just faintly caramelized meringue. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Santo Wines 1911 Santorini Nykteri 2021

Nykteri is 85 percent assyrtiko (the minimum for the Santorini PDO) with (10) athiri and (5) aidani. Vines are 50 years of age from the “other” growing area, that being Oia. Really rich, viscous and fulsome white blend, more phenolic and softer than the 100 percent assyrtiko. Different and curious, certainly a matter of vintage in terms of sappy and resinous qualities. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Domaine Sigalas Barrel 2021

Only assyrtiko, 60 year-old vines, high alcohol and relatively higher pH at 3.11. A naked example in 10 percent new, 90 percent used wood. Beautifully integrated already and a wine that’s more ruminative than most others but also expressly sapid, crunchy and as the Italians would call scorrevole. Warm up to this wine and its generous if also nurturing style. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Santo Wines Vinsanto 2016

Vinsanto, wine of Santorini in its original form though not likely aged in ancient clay pots. Grapes are dried six to ten days and aged two years in barrel. Alcohol is quite low at just above 11 while the residual sugar runs high, at 251 g/L/. Spent six years in 225L barrels for a wine of caramel delight with other concentrated parts, especially acids, running at 10 g/L. Salty, not surprising, so yes a taste of salted caramel though and the feeling of a sunset landing into the sea behind whitewashed Oia. To great applause. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted May 2023

Gaia Vinsanto 2012

Now going back to 2012 it is Gaia’s aged 10 years in the same one-year old barrels the wine was fermented in. The vines are 70-90 years of age for a 10 percent combination of athiri and aidani compliment to assyrtiko. Just under 11 alcohol with great acid and also pH. These grapes are half sun and half shade dried for two weeks. Incredible concentration, intensity of all parts layered but with a tempering of the structural zones that mitigate any chance of cloy by overpowering sugars. Also some bitter phenols which suggests that chocolate would be a good match, so long as it’s a bit bitter and perhaps the same idea from espresso. Hard cheeses as well so a desert wine here that can cycle through savoury connections. Drink 2023-2036.  Tasted May 2023

Argyros Estate Vinsanto Late Release 2002, PDO Santorini

First wild aspect of note is the 324 count in dry extract, more than 10 times the number of the most austere Barolo ever made and then the 290 g/L of residual sugar – while acidity is relatively lower and pH really elevated. If a Vinsanto could ever be considered and called sapid this would be the one, This assyrtiko with 10 percent each athiri and aidani comes from Argyros’ 200-plus year-old vines located in Episkopi. This is a Vinsanto that should and must be tipped alongside savoury courses and there could never be a mistake in that course being centred by salty cheese. The wine finishes with that metallic taste of iron that lingers on the palate for minutes on end. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

godello

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A visit from Lorenzo Marolo and his family’s Grappa

Aged Grappas by Marolo

Fratelli Marolo is a legendary Piedmontese spirits house built by Paolo Marolo, Distillata a Bagnomaria, in Alba. Lorenzo Marolo represents the second generation, born in 1988. After completing his studies at the Scuola Enologica di Alba, Lorenzo completed a Business Management degree at Milan’s Bocconi University, then joined his family in 2014. His father was born in 1946 and was a pupil of Alba’a oenology school, but also studied biology. Paolo met Tiziana while teaching at Alba’s oenological school. At a very young age, in 1967, Paolo began teaching a course on the herbal extracts and liquors made by the great pharmacist, Pinot Gallizio. Gallizio was an artiste who wrote the book of recipes for the school – used by the professors, including Paolo. The first Marolo still was located in the garage of Lorenzo’s grandparents. This dates back to 1977, along with his brother, to lay down the roots for. the Santa Teresa Distillery out of that family home in Mussotto.

Lorenzo Marolo

The idea was to make single grape Grappas – in this regard the houses of Nonino and Marolo are the OGs. A pioneering spirit meant using bain-marie pot stills and aging in barrels made from native Piemonte wood. To create these fanciful if hugely useful and successful distillates it takes 100 kilograms of skins to make five litres of Grappa, but consider that 85 percent of the aromas and flavours come from the skins, spent ones or not. As a rule it takes 10-15 days to ferment, usually done in 400 kg plastic bins, pressed really tight. Like mechanical lagares meets a pneumatic press. “Grappa must always be soft,” insists Lorenzo Marolo, “of alcohol that soothes, not burns.” The most pressing question answered by Lorenzo is “why are these products born?” His answer arrives with a genuine smile. “From friendships with winemakers.” A few months ago I sat down with the affable Marolo at Eataly, his agent Joe Alberti of Noble Estates and Scandinavian wine and spirit educator/consultant Ulrika Ferlin. The entirety of this distillata world has been rewritten in my mind, with the greatest thanks to Lorenzo as current generation of one of the the world’s master distillers. Che piacere. These are the notes on the 10 Grappas tasted.

Marolo Grappa Di Moscato 2020

The marc of this moscato comes from seven producers and no shock to see this as one of the most floral of all the Grappa and also one as accessible as it gets. Preaches all chamomile, peach blossom but also almost tropical viognier in litchi and rose petals scents. “If you want to obtain perfume you must start from perfume” explains Lorenzo Marolo. It’s that simple and 99 per cent of the production is distilled in the autumn, best time for aromatics to be drawn out and into the 42 percent alcohol Grappa. With moscato the link to nature and vintage is 50-150 per cent more succinct because you can’t store thousands of kilos of skins in fridges for one, two or three years. This is moscato’s 2020 linalool as perfect as it gets. Remarkable.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barbera 2020

This is a Grappa with the lowest alcohol (at 40 percent) which results in more fruity aromas and flavours, less spice and earthiness conversely speaking. Also a single vintage as with the other Marolo Grappas and the fruit variegate layers make this feel, think and distill so many ideas out of our imaginations. Keep in mind that a Bain-Marie method, slowly extracting what matters most, well this is how the smoothest Grappa imaginable coexists with that which is so highly perfumed. Minty cool, nothing feral or swarthy, everything beautiful.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2020

Specifically Bussia Cru Barolo (nebbiolo) and this just adds to the idea of single-vintage and also varietal, here realizing a top Barolo cru. Consider, imagine and sense the roses in this exceptional Grappa. Remember that Grappa is Grappa and choosing where and when is a matter of personal taste. This is surely the one of the three with the most power but this is not a glass of nebbiolo, it’s Grappa and so power equals command of your attention. Pay deeper heed to this example because grip and strength might distract and this is ultimately a spirit with just that. Shadowy with notes in the background of Vick’s vapour rub but it’s really balsamic, eucalyptus and other amaro-like flavours. So satisfying.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Brunello 2020

Lorenzo Marolo works with many Montalcino producers, including San Felice, Angelini, Donatella, Fanti, Lisini, Salvioni and Valdicava. Lisini, Salvioni and Valdicava are distilled separately, for some exports where the producers are represented (in common). “In terms of flavours likely the most common as we know Grappa to be,” likely because sangiovese has such a strong personality and the soil also comes through without barrier. A Galestro Grappa, a minerality that shades towards the earthy, without compromise to florals. And so this delivers it all.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Amarone 2020

Welcome to the tension of opposites, even more so the opposite of expectation. My how floral and generous – this Grappa from Amarone, Was expecting great power and grip yet the opposite comes from a remarkably floral Grappa. Aged longer and the colour will tell you this, but Lorenzo Marolo will tell you ”working with Amarone is a real pain in the ass,” because this distilling happens in January. Turning all those machines back on will test a distillers’s meddle. Aged in barriques, short yet sweet and enriching, not for power, as mentioned but for complexity. The aging is a covering, tactile addition, texture developing, a dress to bring more layers and again, complexity. Sweetness follows, rich and viscous, so many more steps up from the clear Grappas.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo 2020

The most reserve and reticence on the nose, clearly a result of what happens when you age nebbiolo pomace longer. Tightens the screws, packs in the aromatics and also flavours, causes the need for air and swirling. Drink this from a wine glass, the space and the ability to agitate will release the true charm and grace. Suddenly there are aromatics and spices, star anise, cinnamon, clove and then capsicum and spicy caramel. Wow there is so much happening now, 100 percent oak casks, 20 previously used for marsala and 20 for white Piedmontese wines, including arneis.  Tasted March 2023

With Lorenzo Marolo

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2007

Barolo is the only Grappa that carries an IGT designation, which means it has to be distilled in the region, no exceptions. This is due to there being a village, not just a wine. To make the Bussia more “domesticated” the nebbiolo skins are aged in (used) Acacia casks which brings a buttery nuttiness, truly local hazelnuts and ripe fruits, namely apricot and dried persimmon (cachi), with indelibly stamped nebbiolo through the finish. Finished at 45 percent alcohol to keep the freshness and balsamico of Bussia.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2006

A 15 year-old Grappa, aged in new Acacia casks, here finished at 50 percent alcohol, simply because more power and intelligence is what this nebbiolo Grappa demands. Grappa contains three times more oil than whiskey (because of skins and also seeds) and so there already is a cask strength feeling and there is a danger to damage the delicacy of the perfume if too much pressure is put on the pressing and aging of this fine Grappa. The effect on the nose here is pure spice incarnate, nuts of the purest oil separated and rising like an inhalant storm upon the olfactory. Really leathery, a new pair of shoes coming from the box. Piquant like no other Grappa ever tasted. Orange zest, caramel but a flavoured one, with ginger and lemongrass.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2001

“Twenty (years) for me,” shrugs Lorenzo Marolo, “many times is too much.” That is because it’s a chewy Grappa, textural and meant for warm nights indoors while the snow falls outside. You do not take this Grappa lightly – you take a glass when it matters, at its proper usage. All the aromatics, spices, florals, nuttiness and brown bits are there yet softer, rounder and as mentioned – so very textural. Tar, leather, caramel, butterscotch, something you chew and it is very impressive.  Tasted March 2023

Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2001

After 12 or 13 years the batch is separated from the other aged Barolo Grappa and the transfer to different cask takes place, making the exchange with alcohol softer and rounder, without compromising the integrity and DNA of the original grape. First vintage was 1983 and now the maximum production is 1,000 bottles. Only 50 per cent is sold to the market, the rest to keep for the family, to share, to bring around the world for special occasions and a few for eager collectors here and there. Everything hits the heights, gives away what is special about every level of nebbiolo Grappa and the hypnotic grasp is here effected. The dream-state is now uncompromisingly rhythmic and rejuvenating at the same time. Grappa of this age and confidence is in total control and there is little choice but to submit. All becomes quiet.  Tasted March 2023

Good to go!

godello

Aged Grappas by Marolo

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