Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Chianti Classico Collection, Stazione Leopolda

Composing a year-end, these are the most thrillin’ wines tasted in the last 12 months list is kinda akin to scribbling up a little warble, if you get the director’s drift. The question begs, what’s the cause, what’s the meaning and ultimately why bother? Reminiscences are part of the human condition and while there is little amusement however in watching a wine critic taste wines, there just may be some interest in reading said list, checking it twice and coming to a personal conclusion as to which choices are worthy, and which are merely nice.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

You will find a notable cadent shift in this year’s melody away from there being a substantial number of older wines chosen as having been the year’s most exciting. Not to mention a concentration of certain grapes and their OG places. It’s just, well, natural. For 2023 more of the choices are directed towards hopelessly romantic youthful wines in their extant moments still years away from entering their right proper drinking windows. No shortage of opportunities in 2023 to taste top examples – Of sangiovese, nebbiolo, nerello mascalese, nero d’avola, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, grenache, syrah, chardonnay, riesling, assyrtiko and chenin blanc – Are but a range within the lion’s share of varietal moments.

Sicilia en Primeur

Old wines can elicit epiphanies but a conscious effort is made to include as many current vintages as possible, provided they represent a winery’s best of the best. This is the state of winemaking today because deeper understanding, the consummate use of technology and a passionate willingness to always improve are qualifying so many of the world’s finest wines at poll positions to a greater degree than before. There is little surprise that Italian wines coexist in highest favour if only because the author spends more than 25 percent of a 365-day timeframe in that country. Italy’s long, deep and intimate relationship with success is a serious attraction and so being afforded the opportunity to taste 2,000 Italian wines in a calendar year will almost certainly result in experiencing no less than 50 thrilling examples. A Bordeaux trip in September to 25 growth properties could and should rightly deliver wines to dot this list. Same could be said for many other palate awakening wine regions worldwide. All this and yet overall travels and tastings were less diverse and more focused in 2023. The author is known to follow the work.

L’Etna, Sicily

Act one: Nebbiolo Prima. Act two: Two weeks later, the Chianti Classico Collection. Act three: Three months later, Sicilia en Primeur and a Canadian Sommelier boot camp with Chianti Classico. Act four: Summer in Paris with Lambrusco, judging at the Nationals in the Okanagan Valley for WineAlign, shooting video in Florence, up to Collio and Hungary and finally 113 degrees in the smoky shade of Washington. Act five: Europe all fall, from Bordeaux to Monferrato, Chianti Classico to Montalcino, Piedmontazine Alta Langa and back to Chianti Classico. These decisions are not taken lightly, nor are they apocryphal fabrications, but they are Godello’s 23 mind-blowing wines of 2023.

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW 2020, West Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes

Upper echelon aromatic stage presence, stoic and static as riesling must be if it wants to set a gold standard. Dry entry that sides and morphs into natural sweetness of peach and Forelle pear, almost lime cotton candy scented. From the original vineyard planted in 1976 closer to the lake where tender varieties excel. The elastic extension and tension together coexist as long as Seneca runs from the snow belt to Watkins Glen. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2023

Vineyards of the Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee Des Vignerons 2021, PDO Santorini, Greece

Of course 100 per cent assyrtiko, picked and collected between six and eight AM, straight into the press, stainless steel vinified, no cooling, no passing go, no collecting 200 drachmas. All about preserving essential freshness, finesse and elegance. Spontaneous fermentation, a year on lees, in bottle six months. It is right here where we are to understand why Yiannis Valambous gave up a life 14 years ago that was not focused on Santorini, chose to return and altered his history. Santorini once a place of summers spent without purpose or tension is now all encompassing, focused on assyrtiko and for good reason. It is the variety to which all white grapes now aspire. Gramina sheds distraction and focuses on purity and 2021 is a great vintage. It celebrates assyrtiko from where it thrives and conveys that all important message of place. After tasting the Vassaltis Cuvée Des Vignerons 2021 winemakers around the world will ask their farmers to plant the grape in the place where they are. They will do so because even a fraction of this excellence will be worth pursuing. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Ulmo Chardonnay

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028. Tasted May 2023

With Sarah Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA, Yakima Valley, Washington

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J.B. Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard 2008, Napa Valley, California

As Trailside Vineyard from Heitz will always do, is it the acid that is preserved. This was the case in both the ’06 and the ’07 but back in 2008 the aromatics were expressed in extra level florals, savoury elements and a charming layering of swarthiness. Five years of bottle aging before release plus nine more since have gathered the necessary elements and when you nose but then taste this wine you just know that it is Heitz, by style and out of a context that speaks to what the vineyard is want and purposed to say. Fine position, time and place right here, right now, ready, willing, able to please and without any moment of equivocation. Might just stay this way for another five, perhaps even ten years. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted October 2023

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Napa Valley, California

Opened after a near 20-year stay in the cellar and just a few days after tasting the 2010 and 2020 with Beth Weber Novak in Toronto. The vintage has not been considered as one to hold as long as either 2001 or 2003 but there can be no questioning this 2002’s longevity on this very day. Inventiveness without reinvention because this scents as fresh as it must have been at the essence of its very nascence. All that can be crushed to express in aromas for which imagination conjures berries, stones, clay and flowers. Spottswoode ’02 defines a Napa Vally posit tug between power and grace while existing in a controlled state of confidence and calm. A wine that gently, privately seduces the palate, body and mind into the gentlest slumber of our lives. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted May 202

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020, Sicily, Italy

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2023

Il Poggio, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February and May 2023

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2009, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy

Colonia Vineyard is a short jog up the hill past Rancia and through the woods. In 1966 Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the “tufa” hills of his Fèlsina estate. It was small, built of stone and with a wide brick vault. It was a start. In 1967 he chose to plant Colonia in an impossibly challenging and extreme Alberese limestone rocky location. He used dynamite because that was the thing at the time but it was soon outlawed and made clearing the land near impossible. Twenty-four years later Giovanni Poggiali resumed the project and planted its first vines in 1993, just before Domenico passed away. Colonia 2009 is La Prima, the first Gran Selezione and this look back is one to recall roots (tethered to 2006), familial traditions and passing of the Chianti Classico torch. This vintage separates and leaves its original designations in the rear-view mirror. At 14 years of age it remains austere but austere can be beautiful. As here, with severe and chiseled features though the savoury elements differ from Rancia. More resinous evergreen and forested aromas but also a chalkiness that speaks directly out of the Alberese. The thing is Colonia remains still young and fresh, while the powdered mineral persists unresolved. One of the most fascinating retrospective looks at aged Chianti Classico. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana IGT

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Last tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2021, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Paolo’s first tasting of this finished 2021 Cepparello since bottling back in May is this right here. The frost vintage, namely on April 7th, with secondary buds on the Cordone vines being the source of most of the wine’s fruit. Not a disaster at Isole e Olena, maybe 35 percent loss in total but the quality was high and so less Chianti Classico was made. “That wine is less about the vintage for us,” says de Marchi and so this as the decision made to cope with the small crop. Once again (and since forever) Paolo employs the aromas and proteins inducing method of soft maceration, long délestage and skins connected back with already half fermented juice. The ’21 is a wine of “frescezza” and yet saying freshness does not do the description justice. There is tension and a nervous energy buzzing from Cepparello 2021 and one to really hold your attention. There may be no Italian word for texture but were there one that made any real sense it might be the dramatic threads of “weft” from this 2021 youthful work in progress. This will be a Cepparello for the ages, Buy it and bank on it. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted December 2023

Related – 15 Mind blowing wines of 2015

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Conti Costanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colle Al Matrichese 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988, Tuscany, Italy

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Related – Mind blowing wines of 2014

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017, Barbaresco, Piedmont

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Château Troplong-Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

First vintage where the malolactic fermentation was done 100 percent in tank before being racked to barrel. Some simultaneous spontaneity overlapping with alcoholic fermentation but more often than that there will be control to have them happen one after the other. The fact that 35 percent of the vineyards at the top of the hill are filled with the hardest clay anywhere in Bordeaux, coupled with limestone all over creates the most mineral quotient around. This transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019 but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. Whether you are familiar with, an expert on or just arriving at a Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classé for the first time – it just doesn’t matter. This 2019 will blow your mind. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France

Extremely different vintage but not like ’17, here with much darker, riper and developed fruit. Freshness would have to have been a challenge but at 13.5 percent alcohol and high pH there comes this ulterior freshness with texture imposed by great and forceful will. More active infusion earlier on because there was so much colour and extraction on hand from a vintage where the blend was nearly the same as that of 2017. That being 38 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (27) merlot. There really is no other chateau that creates this style, a mix of salt and pepper seasoning over blue to black fruit and in 2018 the whole bunch inclusion was 60 percent. If you are buying high end Bordeaux from 2018 then Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the place to be, though it’s likely sold out wherever you may live. Just about nothing else in the Left Bank finds this level of quality, balance and success. The whole bunch “infusion” methodology controls the heat and excess of the vintage to deliver finesse, precision, restraint and honesty. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Twenty-three Canadian wines that rocked in 2023

Dec24

What makes a list? The question is like asking what makes a Martini dirty or how much VA is too much in sangiovese? There are some things in life that aren’t certain and others that are. The porcino is the king of all Italian mushrooms, just as the morel is in Ontario. This much is true. A young wild leek is best sautéed as briefly as possible in soft scrambled eggs while an older bulbous ramp should only be pickled. Chicken of the Woods mushrooms are the most striking fungi of them all and chanterelles are the only true frutto del bosco. Composing a best of list is not like these things but something other that takes time, a year’s accumulation of thought and above all else, patience. When more than 1,000 Canadian wines are tasted in a calendar year, narrowing it down to 23 feels like a weighty sense of responsibility and a profound task.

We are so far past discussing the merits or collective quality of wines produced in Canada. Canadian wines rock. They rock you like a hurricane, rock this joint and this town. They rock and roll all night, around the clock and the casbah. They are a rock and roll star, a rock and roll fantasy, old time rock and roll, a rock lobster and just a singer in a rock and roll band. Canadian wine is still rock and roll to me. Got it? This annual agglomeration gets easier to create and harder to define. In no particular order, in other words one through 23 are not systemized in any ascending or descending order. They are arranged to begin with this country’s most successful style of wine, that being sparkling, followed by riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc, red blends and Icewine. These are Godello’s 23 Canadian wines that rocked in 2023.

From the Naramata Bench

Tantalus Blanc De Blancs Traditional Method 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Truly noses as blanc de blanc made from only chardonnay, orchard fruit suspended in sparkling animation. Gingery and rightly oxidative while tightly wound, grippy and ready for anything that is to follow. Flesh from the fruit of the trees fallen in to the hand even before it was picked from the stem. Croccante, succulent, a scintillant raciness in every respect, satisfying and long. Would really like to see this again after the decade strikes ten. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

WineAlign National Awards of Canada judging in the Okanagan Valley

Hinterland Les Étoiles 2018, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Traditional Method and the archetype for making bubbles to speak on behalf of a very specific terroir whilst using estate grown Prince Edward County chardonnay and pinot noir. Hinterland is THE PEC version of Grower’s Champagne because Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras spend more time with their vines than anything else. Considering how many waters their toes dip into that says something and Les Étoiles means business. It is a serious sparkling wine, with intense flavours and the kind of backbone most fizz can only dream of hanging their flesh upon. The 2018 is precocious and wise yet the exploits of its behaviour have only just begun. So taut, so tightly wound and yet so bloody generous. Fresh and with gingery oxidative moments but ultimately in control and introspectively complex. Re-visit as often as possible for up to 10-plus years. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted March 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been beforev- well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Okanagan Valley

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Moutnain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Trail Estate Pinot Noir Sparkling (P.N.17) 2017, VQA Ontario

Here flies from the glass a sparkling gambit that has to be winemaker Mackenzie Brisbois’ most conventional wine. Just pinot noir and from an inverted vintage that gets better and better with time. A 2017 of wildly fantastical aromas and gravitas that make every aspect, component and iterated moment shine. This is a scintillant of excitation that delivers succulence we richly desire from Ontario sparkling wine. The mix of heady perfume, intensity of palate raciness and texture sliding into structure is truly something. If you are not put into an absolute tizzy and hypnotized by this fizz you may not be paying attention. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Estate

Blomidon Estate Winery Brut Blanc De Blancs 2016, Nova Scotia

A 2016 Bland de Blancs that saw 60 months on the lees. Super aromatic and expressive as if breezes were blowing through, Fundy winds with sea kelp and wet clay. Ideal phenolics in an idealized B de B that surely captures place, especially in a vintage like this, but truth is tells Simon Rafuse, “extreme climate event weather in Nova Scotia is making vintage cuvées nearly impossible.” Much of the fruit here comes from the estate block on the bay north of Port Williams, a sandy site that makes for more gentle, elegant and abiding chardonnay. Using old barrels helps to fatten and flesh up that fruit. Seems like an ideal match for the scintillant style of traditional method Nova Scotia sparkling wine. Super fun and energetic bubble. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2023

Lightfoot & Wolfville estate vines overlooking the Minas Basin

Lightfoot & Wolfville Cuvée Evelyn, Nova Scotia

Pinot Noir 85% Chardonnay 15%. If a bit too oxidative in tendency confirmed by the preserved lemon, well it also supports an ambitious style (reminiscent of top, top Cap Classique) that defines this traditional method, pinot noir controlled sparkler. Amazing toasty quality and just the right level of acid sourness to electrify and stretch in the finest nimble way while maintaining balance. Just has to be a top tier cuvée for this house. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Godello and Taylor Whelan, CedarCreek Vineyards

CedarCreek Pinot Noir Rosé Platinum South Kelowna Slopes 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As perfumed as it can ever get for Rosé with a salutary seasoning to elevate flavours up into a complex level of vinous gastronomy. Just scents like ripe pinot noir set up for food matching where plates like tamarind-glazed duck tacos, lemon thyme roasted game birds or anything spit grilled (a.k.a. al pastor) would willingly sidle alongside. Can handle a side of pickled onion, beet or turnip and also the truth. What a terrific use of Home Block and Simes vineyard pinot noir fruit, a white-like wine of protected aromatics, lees addendum, not to mention how blessed it is by a beautiful autumn that made sure Rosé could also be graced by true Okanagan phenolic ripeness. Perfect storm of a Rosé and we should all be thankful for the happenstance. Will age more than a bit as well. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Vineland Estates Riesling Elevation St. Urban Vineyard 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Credit know-how, track record and pedigree – all those essentials of a producer with varietal experience from THE place in this country where it all began. Yes, all this matters but step forward and know that Vineland Estates uses modern technology in both their farming and also winemaking practices in ways no one else seems to equal. So what does this mean for this archetype of an Ontario riesling? So much. St. Urban 2022 is the cleanest, freshest and most luxe yet, simply put it’s all about pinpointed accuracy, finesse and well, great science. The fruit is crisp, the acids purposed and the finish long, silent, salient and salty. This will age alongside some of the best, with noticeable phenolics in tow, making for sapid moments too. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Gabriel Demarco, Cave Spring Cellars

Cave Spring Riesling CSV 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

From the first 2019 CSV holds the intangible riesling cards and feels well-ripened, despite the vintage not being one of the warmer ones up on the Niagara Escarpment. Truth is CSV ’19 wears its phenolics on both sleeves as noted in the botanical resins, melon skins and stone fruit pit aromas. Already possessive of a subtle petrol kiss and acidity of a clear and present high number. Nothing dangerous mind you and the phenol-acid relationship in the wine is quite static, stoic and immovable, at least in this stage of early youth. Will mature quicker than some though the mineral quotient will always ride shotgun. CSV 2019 feels like healthy drinking. It will likely assist in averting the damage of cells resulting from free-radical oxidation reactions and also promote anti-inflammation capacity. More than riesling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted April 2023

Tawse Riesling Carly’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Stoic, cool, gelid and reserved riesling in the vein of a cool climate though the palate richness suggests a warmer vintage. High sugar and also equally so in acid, well-balanced and bespoke where the relationship between grape and geology is ideally matched. This is extremely well made. Finish is extraordinary, with tremendous grip. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

ed. The 2007 Carly’s Block tasted in July during a visit to Redstone Winery also rocked for 2023. One of Paul Pender’s great works indeed.

Charles Baker

Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard 2019, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

Crisp and crunchy but more importantly indelibly phenolic and with all parts moving as one, in synch and so incredibly harmonic. Symphonic riesling from the fabulous Baker boy out of 2019 and with this amount of time now passed, increasingly uncovering proof that it is indeed a vintage for the ages. Texture and intensity with shots of umami are created as a result of that stamp of particular Vinemount Ridge ripeness. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

August Chicken of the Woods

Westcott Chardonnay Block 76 2020, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

The 2020 may be as ideal as it gets for chardonnay across most sub-appellations of Niagara and Block 76 from Westcott up on the Vinemount Ridge proves the theory in so many ways. The statuesque musculature and moment frozen in time visage is something else from a chardonnay so stoic, confident and the kind of act sure attitude that speaks to farming and winemaking cohesiveness. From Garrett Westcott to Casey Kulczyk – there are no holes in this chardonnay. The barrel is huge and yet subtle, the fruit pristine and treated to precision, finesse and at the end of the day, Westcott family love. Benchmark for vintage, ridge and estate. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard Unfiltered 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Estate chardonnay is a cracker 2020 for Hidden Bench and along comes single-vineyard Felseck to crank up the volume for something off the charts. The aromatic bites and flavour washes deliver a Beamsville Bench wall of varietal sound. This is driven, single-vineyard minded and stubborn chardonnay to put symphonies of sound in our heads. Like massed pianos, guitars and string arrangements from which pervasive aromatic perfume and transonic flavour intensity collect to personify cool climate Bench chardonnay. The farmer, maker and proprietor may not be the fruit themsleves, but Felseck 2020 is most definitely their wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Not just the next vintage of the Senchuk homefront chardonnay but potentially one that will be talked about for a decade in retrospective tastings and longer. Whether or not a bottle is present, the reverberations will percolate through the ages. Not just a matter of varietal stuffing created by soils rich in clay and alluvial alloy in which stones feel pulverized into the textural fabric of this wine. You can chew this like taffy and feel the juices run as it liquifies and spreads across the palate. Hovering acidity keeps all the fruit covered, then lifted and placed just where you want this cleanest and purest of Lincoln Lakeshore fruit to be. We are all impressed and those who are not should be mystified due to reasons misunderstood. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Chardonnays of i4C 2023

Rosehall Run St. Cindy Chardonnay 2020, VQA Prince Edward County

The ode goes to Cindy Zwicker Reston, Rosehall Run co-founder and the honour is more about good deeds and love than it is just about name. St. Cindy is no small gift of a label and the good thing is Dan Sullivan’s work puts the saint in the Cindy. Few Prince Edward Country chardonnays were able to avoid ripening, softening, elevated alcohol and loss of tension but double R’s Cindy is the balanced one. Yes it is ripe and also rich but even more important is the pitch perfect seasoning, grip retention and finest moments where extract and tannin collide. This is really, really good chardonnay. The kind of stuff taught in chardonnay winemaking school but riffed upon in the real world. What else needs to be said? Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Vintage number three from Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and now more specific by way of a split, with the Frontier Block as the plot within the larger plot, along with that of Red Clay Barn. Drilling down into this historical vineyard that has risen as fast as any New World terroir, just about anywhere these sorts of things are measured. Here named for the final frontier, that being the “last terroir” in Niagara and who knows, maybe it will soon be the first rolling off of everyone’s lips. GHV-FB 2021 is a force, that much is clear from the first look. Or nose, for what matters. Cool and stony style from a wide open space where limestone, shale and gravels conspire to create something new and with absolute potential. It’s already arrived thank you very much and while words like luxe and opulent do not come to the tip, others like succulent and scintillating do. Just something so real and right at your doorstep, vivid beyond chardonnay compare, a stealth fish swimming in clear waters. Truly complex for chardonnay and it must be noted, unlike any other in the world though at the same time feeling like something you’ve known your whole life. Make an exception to delve into this exception because when it comes to chardonnay, this is what we need. Remarkable clarity and distinction, precision extraordinaire and a wine to cast nets far and wide to secure as many bottles that could be found. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted December 2023

Ramps of 2023

Stanners Pinot Noir The Narrow Rows 2020, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Warmest of vintages and yet as only pinot noir (especially from PEC) is want and capable of doing there is no dramatic rise in alcohol. Conversions will be conversions and they are almost always magical as it pertains to the County. The specificity of the Narrow Rows elicits a varietal human response like few, if no others out of the County and that means love. The wave of fruit effortlessly tumbling into sweet acidity and structure fitting like a glove makes all parts happy, singing and generous. They do their work with chivalry, philanthropy and love. The vintage is a conundrum for PEC reds but the Narrow Rows and subsequent actions will be judged as right in the future, in part because of the block and in part because the Stanners team abides by what this pinot noir needs to be. A top pinot for 2020 Prince Edward County. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2023

Judges of the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada

Privato Tesoro Pinot Noir Woodward Collection 2020, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Inviting, sexy and rising in high spirit, song sung hitting the high notes and a pinot noir that rocks from the first. The perfume is just so very brushy hillside or escarpment and perhaps a bit northerly in location. Crunchy and succulent, judiciously oaked and spiced. mid to more than that in weight, impressive concentration without density and length – such never-ending length. This is the right pinot for the people. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Thomas Bachelder

Bachelder Old Eastern Block Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench, Ontario

For Lowrey Vineyard go east young man, the east is the best – or at least east is oldest, planted in 1984 by the family for the legend Karl Kaiser. The lineage of alliances runs from Kaiser at Inniskillin with Jaffelin (now Rémoissenet), through Le Clos Jordanne and Bachelder forays into Oregon. Today the eastern block of old vines have passed their 35 year mark which means they are truly heritage, not only for Niagara but for anywhere in the world. A glacial heritage too, with limestone being a determining factor to make pinot like this seem soil-driven, mineral-bent and shaped by millennium. Bachleder’s job is to not fuck it up and though he never does, for 2021 he finds another gear. One that is measured and paced for pinot noir – which is exactly what it needs and wants. The sweetness and purity of both fruit and acidity is seamlessly braided to spin a wine that will surely be timeless. Truly special and deserving of much love so give it. Success? Did it come out? All his wines come out. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

The first Morel of 2023

Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc Wild Cask 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Full and splendid varietal expression with such a distinctly captured frank-ness in concentration that really sets the Bench on fire. All the fruit imaginable with help from ant ideal growing season and then the salt and pepper seasoning that sees wood do what’s right and also necessary. The linearity and even-keeled notions of this Thirty Bench are just so measured, persistent and incremental. Will age gracefully over 10 years time. Last tasted April 2023

If at first this may seem like middle road taken for grape and vintage, of medium specs all the way through, keep coming back to this wine. From fruit through acidity and into tannin there is harmony, seamlessly woven and without falter. Good pH balance connectivity to structure so that the cabernet franc doles in sapidity as much as anything else. Right amount of chalkiness and a temperament that is really quite fine. No mind that oak persists as a factor just on the right side of heavy for now. Should show beautifully in another year’s time and with (Bench) distinction for many years to follow. Equal parts salty and sapid is always great combination. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind with the Experts’ Panel, April 2023

Stratus White Label Red 2020, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The blend for Red is always vintage dependant but can’t say there is any shock to see cabernet sauvignon art 40 percent taking the 2020 lead. Next there is cabernet franc (27), followed by merlot and malbec (13 each) and finally petit verdot (7). Six weeks of picking between the merlot and the cabernet sauvignon with specs in the end right on par with that (latter) varietal wine. Meaning magnanimous, ambitiously structured and of a potential to see the 2020, 20th anniversary Red as becoming one for the Stratus ages. Certainly more juiciness and also fun (and pleasure) but make no mistake. These tannins bite back, the wood is far from integrated and years will be required to see this make good on its promise. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Peller Estates Riesling Icewine Andrew Peller Signature Series 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Densely concentrated and from the beginning an impressive balance in accord between sugars and acids so that the two move swimmingly along from the start through to a long lingering finish. One sip and the Icewine becomes one with your palate, hangs on, repeats upon itself and as far as that kind of attraction is concerned you welcome the linger. Special dedication and technique here to be sure. 179 gL RS and 10.5 percent abv. Last tasted January 2023

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Another fine Collio experience

Dec21

The year 2024 will mark the 60th anniversary of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. This important milestone of commitment, promotion and valourization of Collio wines and territory will surely be well celebrated. Last July I returned to the northeastern Italian wine region bordered by Austria, Slovenia and the Isonzo River. The Collio DOC vineyards must be on hillsides to qualify for appellative status and these sites on Ponca terroir are what separate the Collio wines from Friuli as a whole, but more specifically the most proximate DOCs of Friuli Colli Orientali and Friuli Isonzo. It takes its name from Friulian dialect, from a particular sandstone with alternating layers of marl, the composition of which originated millions of years ago. The low-level organic (but rich in mineral elements) Ponca is coloured blue-gray beneath the earth’s surface but turns yellow-brown after exposure to air. The mix of of marl and sandstone can be equated to Flysch and many producers prefer this less parochial term to describe the unique geology.

I had previously visited the hills of the Collio DOC in late spring of 2019, in are area but one to a few kilometres from Slovenia and also Adriatic coast. It’s no wonder that its white wines are highly aromatic and unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock to give them their distinct personality. What is certain about Collio wines is their distinctive phenolic quality. They are intrinsically tied to their villages which dot the landscape that forms a half-moon around Slovenia, though with not a lot of variety in the soils. Climate is highly variable however and if a line were drawn from east to west you would pass from warmer to cooler.

The view from Casa delle Rosa Estate, Dolegna del Collio

Chardonnay and sauvignon are grown to the west, ribolla gialla to the east, malvasia and friulano in their particular pockets and pinot grigio everywhere. The overall territory’s connectivity encourages the production of appellative blends. I for one have made new space for them. Collio is in fact one of Europe’s most fascinating wine regions, a white wine specialist located in the Gorizia Hills of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The amphitheatre of Collio vineyards follow a line along the western border of Slovenia in the northeastern corner of Italy. It is here where centuries of a mélange of multicultural histories meet in a venn diagram of multifarious Italian, Slovenian and Austro-Hungarian mythology.

The Ponca of Collio

The 2023 July visit began at Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli. There are places that alone express the deep historical and human value of a territory. The Spessa Castle is one of those places and Collio is that territory. Dinner with the board of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio took place at Tavernetta al Castello.

Risotto at Tavernetta al Castello

The first full day at Borgo Gradis’ciutta was introduced by PromoTurismo FVG, followed by a Collio DOC tasting that led by Richard Baudains that focused on native grapes; Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC, Friulano Collio DOC and Malvasia Collio DOC. Dinner with the producers took place at Locanda all’Orologio in Brazzano di Cormòns. The second day focused on three more DOCs; Pinot Grigio Collio DOC, Sauvignon Collio DOC and Collio Bianco DOC. Lunch followed at Hosteria da Monia and dinner with producers at Casa delle Rose winery. We paid estate visits at Tenuta Villanova, Tenuta Borgo Conventi, Villa Russiz and Gradis’ciutta.

Tortelli at Locanda All’Orologio, Brazzano-Cormòns

Richard Baudains is THE master Collio educator. “Go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes,” tells Baudains. Cuvées or field blends can fall within the DOC, or not. There are a total of 1,500 ha planted, as opposed to 1,700 in Soave and 1,900 in Macon and a production of 6.5 million bottles, as opposed to 10 in Soave. This is an indication to lower yields and significantly so. In fact it represents 11 per cent of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and three per cent of total Italian production. There are 16 DOC mono-varietals and two DOC blends. More than 95 per cent are white wines, made by 350 growers, 180 bottlers and one cooperative on an average 4.0 ha of planted space. The lead is pinot grigio at 26 per cent, followed by sauvignon (19) and friulano (15). The latter endemic grape declined dramatically and was in fact at 50 per cent just a couple of decades ago. The rest include ribolla gialla (7.5), chardonnay (9), pinot bianco (4) and malvasia (2.5).

With the Sommeliers at Borgo Gradis’ciutta

In May 2019 I tasted through upwards of 100 examples of various Collio DOC with nine “neighbourhoods” as their collective source; Brazzano Di Cormòns, Capriva Del Friuli, Cormòns, Dolegna Del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Gorizia, Mossa, Oslavia and San Floriano del Collio. Sauvignon and Collio Bianco were most concentrated upon. In July of 2023 we began with those two wildly diverse first Consorzio Collio tastings led by the legend Baudains. The tastings were well orchestrated by our Sommeliers, the Consorzio’s Lavinia Zamaro and La Fede, a.k.a. Federica Schir. On this trip I tasted 116 examples of Collio DOC (and two Venezia-Giulia IGT). They are broken down as follows: (10) malvasia, (12) ribolla gialla, (23) friulano, (22) sauvignon, (22) pinot grigio, (17) Collio Bianco, (10) other varieties and (2) IGT. Here are the notes.

Malvasia

Bracco 1881 Malvasia La Mont-Brach 2021, Collio DOC

Classic malvasia really, from a cool site, lemon-waxy, beeswax mainly, tang, tart edginess and fine bitters. Spice and incense. Clicks every box on the expected varietal list and the length here is quite good. Picks up steam and fleshes well. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Curious how both ribolla gialla and friulano by Gradis’ciutta are open-knit, airy and fast friendly while malvasia is more closed and demure. Fulsome on the palate however and silky, cool, herbal and then finishing with drifting downy softness. Bitters arrive right at the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Malvasia Soluna 2021, Collio DOC

Anything but showing as a shy variety in this Soluna by Livon, sharp of tang and keen of spirit. Intensity of lemon in every which way but loose. Lots of finishing pith. A bit over the top. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Quietly confident malvasia from Alessandro Pascolo with an immediately gratifying set of aromas bred and bled from the vineyard mixed with winemaking for great compliment. Clean lees create a positive lactic effect while the flavours are traditionally sweet and sour. Lots of wine here, some waxiness and smoulder, intensity and drive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Malvasia 2019, Collio DOC

Long maceration on the skins much like the ribolla gialla and the friulano, as is Damian Podversic’s house style. Most pronounced with this grape and does in fact stifle the aromas while elevating the salve effect, tannic presence and intensity on the palate. Big wine from beautiful grapes and yes, this style is his reason for being and making wine. Salty (with caramel) to a wild degree with forest brush all throughout. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

So much more flesh in malvasia, both on the nose and the palate, especially in an example that gathered this much sun and achieved admirable ripeness. This is how it Pighins, with juicy lemon and then flavour intensity, finishing at fine beliers and saltiness. Accessible and professional. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Surely the most reductive of the malvasia and a barrel style to imagine flint, paraffin and mineral smoulder. Quite successful in this regard, ambitious perhaps and working the glass with diligence for great effect. Bitters and tonics, grip if controlled with its intensity in near perfect tact. Wood (tonneaux) needs to melt and settle in. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

In line with Stella’s ribolla gialla and also friulano in which a whole lot of wine and complexity hides behind the curtain of sauvage and stinky cheese. As malvasia it’s surely unique, curious and a taste that most would consider acquired. Goat hide and wild flavours of make us want more and the wine creates a true salivation of the palate. If only the yeasts were got under control. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Five months have wrought wonders on the ’21 malvasia which now expresses itself with not just clarity but great spirit. A force of varietal nature and right in the proverbial zone, fresh, dancing, full and bursting with intensity. Last tasted July 2023

Though the history of malvasia and Collio is long and storied the number of producers bottling the grape as a solo artist and not in Collio Bianco is dwindling from year to year. The grape is indeed an ambassador of the denomination and can effect wonders in the bottle. This comes from a purposeful to potentially profound vintage and you can really feel the gravitas in the density and volumetric properties of this unique white wine. The relationship between place and variety takes it where nowhere else does, into extra viscosity and unction, limpid waters where texture enriches and enlivens the liquidity of the wine. Note the booziness (at 14.5 per cent) and the low yet notable level of residual sugar. Fulsome and all in, in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Vosca Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Chewy malvasia with more phenolics and bitters up front. Steady and of a continuance to palate with notes on repeat. Quite metallic and sapid. Higher pH no doubt. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ribolla Gialla

The Ribolla Gialla is probably the only truly local variety, first cited in 1299. Thick skinned, low sugar, high acidity, late picked and prefers the higher, stony sites. Has lost favour because of competition by sauvignon but it’s under a revival. Even some experimentation in sparkling iterations. Hardy and vigorous, later budding and so less prone to frost. Sugars move slowly and acids remain forever. For the variety there are 100 bottlers, 1300 hectares which makes the average holding only 13! The largest is approximately 40.

Attems Ribolla Gialla Trèbes 2021, Collio DOC

Owned by Frescobaldi, warm site and early picked. The first and likely most reductive of the first 10 ribolla gialla, a bit mephitic to be honest and agitation is necessary. Lots of fine wine behind the veil, intense, implosive, layered and stony. The most mineral driven expression and a wine to attract a very specific crowd. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cool, gelid, stoic, even serious ribolla gialla. The citrus is not so much preserved as it is like savoury lemongrass gelato, less aromatic and also no sweetness but just gives the feeling of being satiny and cold. No lees, malolactic or obvious complexity. The grace and elegance are noted but also less risk, middle road taken, solid varietal weight and effect overall. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Ribolla Gialla Yellow Hills 2021, Collio DOC

From Capriva di Friuli and one of the oldest family-run wine companies in the Collio DOC. There are 30 hectares in Collio and 70 in Isonzo DOC, split between Capriva and Cormons. A varietal ribolla gialla that speaks to the colour of the hills when the grapes are golden at harvest. Stays on the lees until March, is then racked off and put to bottle where is remains for a further nine months before release. Lees but a resolved, mature and sweetly fruit integrated one. Phenolic though again maturity in that regard so no metallic or botanical sensation derived. More than enough freshness, a nutty quality because of the aging and also a finish part lemon waxy and part herbal. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

An aromatically floral ribolla and also one at the higher end of the phenolic scale. Quite an alloy of cool, sapid-licked slick of sensations derived. Less lemon and more lemongrass and so here is a wine to pair so well with Vietnamese cuisine. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cooler feelings and herbal, preserved lemon and aromatic texture. Balance and full connect between aromas and flavours, slick and silken, nothing out of whack and seamless integration. Nothing overt or standing out but it is this togetherness that sees all parts working as one. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Ribolla Gialla Roncalto 2022, Collio DOC

From a cooler site near to Slovenia. The least intensity in terms of aromatics, reticent in a way and yet unleashed. Different story on the palate with a real sour lemon flavour and intensity of tang. Out of balance in more than one regard. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Ribolla Gialla Damijan 2019, Collio DOC

Age and maturity come quick to ribolla gialla and combined with 30 days skin contact in maceration makes for a golden orange wine. Classic tisane, part orange citrus and part aromatic tuber. Add in the aging inside big 25 hL barrels leading to a softness but also a fullness of texture. This is ribolla gialla in confident balance, clean, sure and respectful of itself and those who drink it. Not really an orange wine at all and were it considered in the genre, well it would surely be a top example of that, with nary a moment of oxidation or volatility. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Some more colour and even later picked maturity than the average ribolla gialla. Carries texture and weight into a deeper feeling as well, still a metal sensation but not nearly as phenolic as some, seemingly counterintuitive but there it is. Well judged and executed example in the face of hanging long and pressing with fervour. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Natural fermentation, 15 days maceration on the skins, cellar temperature, aged in old tonneaux. Some funky lees noted off the top, like crème frâiche and aging citrus. Minor TCA. Palate emits a minor bacterial note. Nothing egregious but present nonetheless. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

No wood, only stainless steel and like all Collio wines they remain on the lees for a couple of months longer than those of Isonzo. Does not get much fresher or palate cleansing than Villanova’s, from clay soils gifting aromatic balance, shared affinities between florals, lemon drop citrus, phenolics and what clean lees are want to deliver. The lovage herbal note is sweetly pungent though the transition to palate changes with more intensity than expected. The flavours are favourable and potentially memorable. Some sweet and sour mix and then the metallic note so prevalent in Collio. Des there is an extra layer as compared to Isonzo, namely because the two hills where the grapes are grown are layered with stratified-stony Ponca soil, unlike the clays of the Isonzo plains that surround them. Really satisfying wine. rink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Confident and concentrated ribolla gialla, layered and full of complimentary but also supportive parts. Fruit and stone in cohorts, minor reduction and major texture. Maximum ripeness for the grape. A wine that surely celebrates place. Feels like the top single varietal expression for the house. Drink 2023-2026.Tasted July 2023

Vosca Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

More aromatics here in a complex olfactory weave of citrus, sweet herbs and marine saltiness. Feels earlier picked and the acidity confirms this notion. Definitely the crunchiest and saltiest example if a bit of extra lees and or malolactic quality felt as well. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Friulano

Then there is friulano, the opposite of ribolla gialla, thin skinned, low acidity and not fussy. Will grow anywhere. Harvest gap times are much wider and yet a wet September can be challenging. In dry conditions it will usually hang well into September.

Branko Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

From Igor Erzetic who changed the old vines over to Guyot in 2005, five years after taking over the vineyard. His father was Branko and the varieties cultivated are chardonnay, pinot grigio, sauvignon and this friulano. Use of wood is for seasoning, not for “dominance.” Igor is looking for mineral and especially sapidity, but in the end he is happy with harmony. His 2022 is fully phenolic, botanical, sapid and savoury. So very friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A bit of funky lees on the cooperative’s friulano, unexpected because their wines are usually squeaky clean. Lemongrass, pungency of herbs and yogurt are there, followed by some lemon sherbet and a soft mouthfeel. Slides away slow and easy, finishing with true sauvignon-esque style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello di Spessa Friulano Rassauer 2021, DOC Collio

Doesn’t get much more phenolic than this grippy aromatic friulano from Castello di Spessa in Captiva del Friuli and ripeness is clearly one of its virtues. Tasted blind and with the white pepper shakes this could be grüner veltliner, in particular from the Wachau. Lots going on here in a varietal wine that speaks to low yields, proper hillside plantings and attention to detail. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Draga Friulano Miklus 2018, Collio DOC

Five years is long enough to get a sense of what aging friulano can bring to the table and the Miklus by Draga tells a winding, evolving and fascinating story. Perhaps some botrytis here, noted in the saffron and the preserved lemon plus much more wood aging put this in an entirely different ethos. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Friulano Rijeca 2022, Collio DOC

Some maturity here and not perfectly clean fruit. Shadowy mephitic and lean. Not correct. Overly bitter and also tannic. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From the village of Ruttars in the municipality of Dolegna del Collio. Waxy, in fact the first of its ilk when you’d expect so much more but Collio friulano is not truly of the paraffin kind. Salty, with botrytis-induced saffron but also a good flavoured Solvenian salt. Tart but in control and all the while built with fine bitters to bring it all together. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’cutta Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

More fleshy accumulation and later picked ripeness gained for credibility in the Gradis’cutta friulano and without hesitation. Streak of mineral salt and simply balanced throughout. Textbook friulano, clean, refreshing, neither too lean nor too fat. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Old vines, good site. Lemon in so many ways dominate the nose, drops of candy, juice and a phenolic grip by the pith. Full and even expansive on the palate, fatter and creamier than most Collio friulano. Good acid here as well so there really is a lot going on, perhaps needing a few more months to integrate and come together. Tannic and proper, not technical and with plenty of potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Most interesting aromatic profile, the first to bring about key lime and sweet basil. The cool gelid feeling begins here and carries over to the palate. Tonic and salty character in a balanced wine that is surely indicative of a vintage’s promise as evidenced by the seamless transitions in the wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Friulano Manditocai 2021, Collio DOC

Single site, cru or just fantasy name but regardless you can feel the concentration on the nose. Pencil lead, wild fennel and other savoury to brushy elements make this stand out from the pack. The wood could use just a bit more integration but it will get there. Salty, lemony and intense palate with linearity and length. True vibrancy and the fine bitters really tie it all together. Manditocai means “bye-bye tocai.” Cheeky. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A cornerstone of Alessandro Pascolo’s production, the anchor in his Collio Bianco and here what feels like much of his most important varietal fruit. Equally aromatic and playful on the palate, dancing as friulano should for energy and refreshment. Clean and caught in just the right moment between linearity and fleshiness. A few grinds of white pepper and really great length. Top example. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Clean, fresh, lemony and open-knit friulano with every moment intent on thirst-quenching, satisfying and refreshing feelings. Just that most minor finishing hint of phenolic grip and white pepper but this is a fleshy and “grasso” friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Friulano Nekaj 2019, Collio DOC

Longer maceration time on the skins, likely as much as 30 days and combined with a couple of extra years of age puts this in full maturity. Not as expressive and energetic as the ribolla gialla but still just as clean and without any off-putting natural funk. The salve feeling and layered tang is stronger, both a result of phenolic grip and deeper or more density of tannin. Surely stands apart from the rest. Not exactly the best grade for this style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Just ever so slightly effervescent energy buzzes from the Blanchis “hill” friulano in a cool, gelid and faux sweet example. Certainly ripe and phenolic, well mad despite the hot vintage because it strikes overall accord between what could have been disparate parts. A touch of botrytis here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russiàn Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Less open and surely not a gregariously aromatic friulano while the palate tells an entirely different story. From a closed to widely open circumstance, first shy and then dancing, tripping the tongue and expressive of many sweet, sour and salty flavours. Rijstaffel in the mouth. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From Pradis and typical as it is aromatically lean, not so much closed as not so forthright. Sapid and stoic, pH a bit higher here as well and less indicative of the vintage. More flesh and expressiveness on the palate, almost peachy but there is an unripe greenness about it. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Quiet and reserved, holding back the years, perfume and tears. Crisp, clean and crunchy friulano, lean and refreshing. Part salty and part sapid, working both sides of the varietal room. Herbal and herbaceous, very much like green sauvignon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Spontaneous ferment, good time on the lees and then in old, large barrel. Oxidative to a degree and freedom felt through and through. Vociferous, some slightly funky lees and most certainly a naturally conceived and executed friulano with great wandering purpose. Fleshy and flighty, fanciful and full of varietal fantasy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A certain aspect of typically Collio friulano stands out on this semi-aromatic front and that would be the blossom perfume, orange namely but also something from wood. Really middle road taken friulano and fleshy, of plump raisins and melon, even a hint at litchi. Could be the slightest bit of botrytis but it comes across neither sweet nor funky. Glycerin, medium-bodied, sweet acidity and concentration with thanks to a warm and hot summer. Low rainfall yet grapes were healthy and their adaptability translated to their expression and personality. A wine that is a truthful and respectful tribute to the region. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Still working through its kinks of reduction and enzymatic motions, alive, dancing and kicking. Improving with every passing moment, developing further complexities, advancing towards an end game. Just about at that moment. Last tasted July 2023

As with the kindred Bianci there is unction and viscosity dictating the character of the friulano, more so than pinot bianco yet less than the über thick and textural malvasia. This one seems to find the middle ground and glides through with more ease, gently sliding over the palate yet not leaving any salve or residual tape behind. Middle of the road is proper and good in this case when you think on things as scenarios of good, better and best. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2019, Collio DOC

Friulano from 2019 persists and remains in ideal tact, fruit and phenols intertwined, together, intact. The taciturn is apprised for grape variety and place, also inseparable and moving in tandem. Really floral example, vinous and reeking of the endemic grape it has to be, here, now and for always. Sweetly natural, cool and in the open window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Vosca Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Cool and metallic, especially in the friulano range, gelid and not overly perfumed. A truly sapid iteration, likely higher in pH and less so in terms of usual acids. Lean to a degree and really quite refreshing. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Phenolic friulano, cool and stoic, not aromatic in any fruity or floral way. Juiced and zested lemon all over the palate, a bit one dimensional in that regard and still emitting sulphides yet to blow away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz in Capriva del Friuli

Sauvignon

“In Collio the blanc is omitted and the commitment to brevity allows for their prized and undemocratic sauvignon to co-exist in a über particular vacuum occupied by friulano, malvasia and ribolla gialla. These Gorizia Hills so proximate to Slovenia and the Adriatic coast make for whites of the highly aromatic ilk, unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock. These thoughts and claims do justice to sauvignon with both equal and in relation to the aforementioned coveted grapes, opposing justice.

“The biggest variable is site,” told Richard Baudains, a consideration in astute support of his earlier prelude for Collio Bianco when he said “go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes.” Somewhere in the mechanism of Collio sauvignon there is a device that simulates the gestalt of a storm. A switch, however personal, that reacts to and perhaps assimilates after tasting to find oneself stunned, as if spun in that vacuum that forms in the immediate wake of an historic turn. Or in this case, a varietal one.”

Ascevi Luwa Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

The aromatics in this sauvignon blanc come out of nowhere, first with tin fruit cup pear and peach, followed by a savouriness best described as blatant black liquorice. Or aniseed but regardless there is no denying the fruit meets Glycyrrhiza Glabra as Sambuca liquor effect of this wine. The yeasts and lees are surely part of the delivery but how can terroir not be pointed out? To be discussed. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Attems Cicinis Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cicinis, from Latin meaning “squirrels” and solo sauvignon from a single vineyard planted for this purpose. A Collio wine from Friuli-Venezia Giulia and specifically Capriva del Friuli where the variety does as well as anywhere in the entirety of Italy. For varietal wines and also at the heart of many Collio Bianco blends but here the artist sings a cappella with richness and layering in its voice. A white wine of fine bitters, implosive tang and structure. Very curious, wholly unique. Last tasted November 2023

Pretty fruity number this Cicnis by Attems (owned by Frescobaldi by the way) and by the by you won’t find a much more up front and drinkable example. House style so similar to the other varietal wines made by Attems, attractive to all, clean and teachable for Collio from hill to hill. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Branko Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

This just has to be the most understandable and recognizable of Collio sauvignon and despite a bit of green char because of the vintage there can be no further elements needed to describe what that concept means. Concentration, hillside brush and grasses, humidity and the dampness of a place that gets into the bones of a wine. True karst bled from the skeletal Ponca of geology and a skillet filled with fungi, herbs and mineral salts. More than correct. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Sauvignon Segrè Capriva Del Friuli, 2021, Collio DOC

Unique aromatic profile on the Segrè by Castello di Spessa, of brushy savour and a dry concrete or at least Ponca geological sensation. Also a buzz on the palate, that ever so slight refreshing feeling given by CO2 akin to a Styrian style that’s really inviting. Really fine energy and vitality, the power of Capriva del Friuli, with oscillations between lean linearity and fleshy substance. Shows off 2021 with distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sauvignon Sant’Helena 2022, Collio DOC

Faux sugary capture, not unusual for Collio sauvignon, sweetly scented and then quite sharp in flavour. Tart and just fleshy enough to deliver as much ripeness as the vintage can, but 2022 is 2022 and the green streak is unavoidable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A soapy cilantro start which if you are like the card carrying members who relish the aroma, well than this sauvignon begins well and bodes for much promise. The palate does in fact deliver flesh, mineral and stone fruit in waves. Some green as well but no matter because the hills are alive with sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Feels like some skin contact here, definite later harvesting and no lack for pressing the sauvignon blanc bejeezers to make a pretty vinous if nearly resinous example. Acids are surprisingly fine and the wine finds enough balance amongst the green fleshed fruit with some in veraison skins. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A bit taut and aromatically reticent but know that the curtain pulled aside will reveal a fruit filled landscape and a vintage reality. Mineral salts, savoury herbs and yet to know fascinations. A stoic and confident sauvignon right here, upright, linear and surely of one of the more successful but also promising Collio styles. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Sauvignon Valbuins 2022, Collio DOC

The skins of stone fruit lead and so the Livon exhibits more ripeness than any of the 2022s, regardless of grape variety. A bit taut this one and so a good swirl will see the windows open and the energy released. Some structure and grip will see this Valbuins sauvignon live on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Consistent style here from Marcuzi, full on skin contact, not just for pinot grigio but also for sauvignon blanc. More tisane and salve texture this time and with this variety, ogf caramel and grapefruit but also lees layered throughout. This is the dude’s style. Like Champagne with no bubble. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Sauvignon Mossa 2022, Collio DOC

Much hidden behind a reductive wall, more than a veil and seeking more sauvignon than this. Acetic notes emerge and so something is amiss. Made with a predominance of French clones, a vertical expression, diversity of fruit, some buzz on the palate and a sort of Kiwi finish, but one that really goes on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Russian Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Truly salty sauvignon, lean and green, some sulphide activity unresolved and direct, in your face, attack upon the palate. What else is there to say? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Interesting and curious sauvignon, not so much an aromatic stunner but more like an unripe mango in search of some lime. Juicy but not truly concentrated and the herbology is quite sweet, like basil and yet the citrus element does arrive from the mid-palate forward and through the finish. Which is incidentally salty and so complexity does build to culminate in a proper example of Collio sauvignon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Quiet, no true varietal aromas available and then vinous, grape, simple, uncut and uncomplicated. Nothing to shout about for sure. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Substantial and up front with a clear and present intention to extoll the immediately gratifying Collio nature of this style in sauvignon blanc. More floral than tropical and good aromatic concentration from old vines. Few show the pyrazine as this does, also white pepper and intensity of varietal. Good expression of the hills above Isonzo. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Somewhere between eight and 12 vineyards with different harvest dates add up to this seamlessly layered sauvignon. Paolo walks the vineyards, tastes the grapes and makes his decisions on where to harvest and when. Every pick is fermented separately, the average on skins time is a night or so and the blends are made once fermentations are finished. Freshness incarnate, lemon drop, naturally sweet fruit and high acidity. As professional a sauvignon from Collio as there could possibly be, of clarity, purity and amenability. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cool, composed, taut and not quite open sauvignon blanc, though there is clearly something special waiting in the palates’ wings. This exudes confidence and concentration without equivocation and so terroir, that being the hills of Mossa And Gorizia, is responsible for the promise and potential. Properly structured sauvignon blanc and surely a distinct Collio expression. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2017, Collio DOC

The many vineyards of variegate, wide time frame picks prepare this sauvignon for early freshness and moderate structure, allowing it to stay focused through to this near six year mark. Some maturity for sure and a mild mustiness, yet persistent because of high extract and finely defined accents. Good seasoning makes sure to see this drinking well enough in 2023. Should stay this way for another year or so. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

Warm and ripe vintage, full and substantial fruit, more than decent acidity and a good long run to stay in the secondary zone for this length of time. More phenolic than expected, hanging grippy with the lingering fruit in its leathery yet still juicy second stage. In better shape than the bottle of ’17 tasted side by each. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

From the word go the extra layer of ripe flesh is noted on this sauvignon blanc and at the “normale” level, as opposed to the “De La Tour,” which is the estate’s sauvignon blanc selection. Still there is no miss or lack for substance and ample everything involved, including sweet herbal perfume, lees, oiliness and natural sweetness of fruit. Impressive wine if just not the chosen one for Villa Russiz, though the length is excellent. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon De La Tour 2008, Collio DOC

The Villa Russiz selection, from the top sauvignon cru, chosen from the De La Tour vineyard with the oldest block having been planted in 1982 (and others in 1987). Pour this without knowing the vintage and you might think somewhere between 2015 and even 2018 but 2008? Dios mío man. Fruit shining and fresh like yesterday before yesterday, ripe, ripped, muscular and of a power that shows grip without force, ripple minus tension. The tension is in the structure but it’s elastic and the wine adjusts to every stretch and pull. One of those impossible wines. Magic. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Green and herbaceous though nothing over the top in that regard. Fine enough if much like inexpensive Touraine with a tacky finish. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Pinot Grigio

In Collio, pinot grigio is surely at the lowest end of varietal importance and while trying to take it as seriously as the top grapes is not a thing, no one is going to make a bad pinot grigio, even for commercial purposes. Across the river in Isonzo it’s a different story and the variety has been very good to many producers. Back in Collio the top vineyard sites are given to ribbola gialla, friulano, malvasia and too an extent also sauvignon. The thing is pinot grigio is not fussy and will grow just about anywhere

Angoris Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

On the skins for a few hours for coppery hue and rustic elements creating early interest. Not very aromatic though it feels like some complexity waits in the shadows. Peach skin, lime, even lemongrass and then true sapidity. Well done. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ascevi Luwa Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, flaccid and soft pinot grigio. No real aromatic profile save for a nutmeg or cinnamon note with mild scented apple skin. Peach tisane and sapid. Easy, phenolic and then a mineral finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Branko Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Reminds more of the Grigio’s made in other parts of northeastern Italy and so Collio does not stand out in terms of this wine’s personality. A gram or two of residual sugar works in cohorts with the salty and sapid elements of the wine to create a near fleshy and balanced experienced, this in spite of some underripe green notes in the wine. Successful enough, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Fresh, upbeat and some unresolved sulphides needing agitation to blow off. Just an hour or two of skin contact brings an added element of phenolic surprise without risk and with warranted reward. A technically spot on pinot grigio if not a particularly curious one of any sort of untamed personality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Grigio Joy 2021, Collio DOC

Aromatics led by the uncanny scent of cotton candy and a banana-ester element. Good thing these aromatics, so that the neutral demons of pinot grigio are exorcized but something more herbal, sapid or even salty would better serve the notion of complexity. Felt like Rosé with some residual sugar, more than noticeable wood and not quite balancing acidity. Joyous if just a bit of cloy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Draga Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

No lack for time spent on skins to turn out coppery hue and stewed red fruit notes. Strawberry yes but also red currant, pomegranate and rhubarb. A mess of a salad and that’s the heart of this pinot grigio’s matter. Stays in balance with just enough acidity and in the end it’s almost a Rosato though the vinyl note on the finish suggests just a bit of acetic volatility. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Pinot Grigio Rocciaponca 2022, Collio DOC

Salty iteration, less phenolic grip and bite while primarily of a neutral, non-aromatic effect. Tarragon and just a faint hillside bushiness. Good vibrancy on the palate, again salinity and admirable intensity. Still quite neutral though there is a nice balancing effect created by late arriving bitters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

More skin contact than most – this much we know from the hue somewhere between platinum and copper. Neutral aromatics, perhaps a steely situation. Definitely a matter of phenolics and sapidity, just a hint of strawberry to stewed rhubarb. Simple and innocuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

A few hours on the skins delivers the platinum gold hue for pinot grigio with purpose, above and beyond the neutral average. Some CO2 buzz on the palate, yeasty, tannin and extract as well. That said the salinity is a step ahead of the sapidity and so phenolics are kept in check. Does eventuate at that sort of botanical end, but with subtlety and fine balance. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Ripe and extracted, especially for 2022. Really into peach, without any noticeable citrus and no oak to cover or obfuscate the obvious estate style. Lees however, which subdues the vibrancy. Captures the sapid grip and delivers a simple plan, executed without equivocation. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Peel back the skin contact curtain and this pinot grigio by Kurtin is aromatic indeed, in fact there are more fruit, mineral and elemental scents than most. Great fruit in fact with subtle and shadowy phenolics, botanicals and bitters. Beautifully made and a joy to sip. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Pinot Grigio Braide Grande 2022, Collio DOC

Livon, Livon likes its grigio. They make a lot they say. They spend their days smiling, with success, the neutral grape will play. Simple. Tart, herbal, a good tug between salty and sapid. Middle road taken and well made. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio DOC

Oxidative. Long skin contact, raisins and figs, wood-induced caramel as well. Orange, peach and pomegranate. A made wine, void of place and certainly a conundrum. Feels like a sparkling base wine laden with autolysis and phenols. A pinot grigio with a statement, a winemaker’s art if misconceived and yet to find its aesthetic. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Something next level in the aromas – in fact the nose delivers in a way that most pinot grigio do not. A concentration that intimates florals and the scrape of citrus skins – a few of them. More salty than sapid and then fine natural sweetness indicating fruit concentration with a streak of stony salinity running through. Surely a pinot grigio of lower yields and more attention paid to agricultural details. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Herbaceous for pinot grigio, not green but definitely up there with a faux pyrazine elemental airiness. Also some CO2 buzz to lighten and refresh so that energy and vitality are elevated. Carries that white peppery grüner veltliner feeling and then finishes at juniper in the G & T botanical way. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russian Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Longest amount of skin contact here, not orange per se but akin to Rosato or en route to such an idea out of the rub from a white or green grape. Quite rustic and ropey, salty and faux sweet, surely tart and also phenolic. Builds character because the palate delivers fun and fruity flavours, in part with help from some extra CO2. Much better in the end than what first seemed impossible early on. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Neutral in every respect, separated from the skins with haste, fermented in neutral vessels and not a moment of lees anywhere to be found. Carbon filtered to keep the wine as innocuous, ambiguous and clean as possible. Fait accompli. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, salty and relatively neutral as far as pinot grigio from Collio is concerned. Energy all around in the sense that the grape and place do this professional style better, if only because vineyard quality, lower yields and makers with the acumen to do great things all conspire for an elevated varietal experience. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Reductive and agitation does help to put this in proper vintage steading. It would seem like not perfectly clean lees mar the entry and first transition though the wine straightens itself and gets to where it needs to go. Some sour moments and fine in the end. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

No real skin soak and yet full fruit comes across out of an ideal vintage to make pinot grigio with the added bonus of Collio vineyards. Fleshy, technically clean and sound, a joy to sip and all around winner, now matter the reason for wanting or needing a glass. This will suit everyone’s needs. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Sound, proper and expectations filled for Collio pinot grigio without any noticeable winemaking actions taking centre stage. No Malo, lees, skin contact or otherwise distractions from good and clean vintage fruit purposed to a reliable and well conceived drinking wine. Really proper, flesh and bone in the mix and admirable length too. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2010, Collio DOC

In a lovely state of oxidation, caramel and phenolics now sweetened and fattened, acids still intact and the wine hanging like a flag blowing softly in a breeze. Honeyed but the fruit still leave s a dry impression; like one of those infused and savoury kinds with mellifluous texture. Freshness and what feels like cooler vintage. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted blind at the estate, July 2023

Robert Princic of Gradisciutta

Collio Bianco

The Collio Bianco is surely the place where each producer finds its artistic and territorial expression, but it also determines their expertise at blending. At Gradis’ciutta in San Floriano del Collio we practiced as “Apprentice Winemakers” for a morning and made our own Collio Bianco blends. Godello’s was coined “Stranieri” for obvious reasons, number one being that he was an interloper in this Collio Bianco game. His blend was led by ribolla gialla at 40 percent, followed by friulano (30), pinot grigio (18) and finally malvasia (12). It seems his concep[tualiztion differed greatly than that of the Gradis’ciutta 2022 Collio Bianco. Their’s was based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. Other grapes allowed from those grown on the estate can be müller thurgau, picolit, riesling italico, riesling and traminer aromatico. The first and last of those cannot exceed a total of 15 percent of the blend.

Blending Collio Bianco at Gradis’ciutta

A producer’s top varietal expression can be labeled as Collio Bianco, including with the use chardonnay though there is a trend towards only using endemic varieties to make the Bianco. “Collio Bianco is both business card and calligram. Though the autochthonous varietal triumvirate of ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia are the bones of Collio’s body politic, international grape varieties like pinot bianco, sauvignon and chardonnay add much to act as representatives of the heart, head, mind, body and soul of the producers. Ultimately it is the Collio Bianco that have emerged as front runners for spokes-wines of the place. The appellative white blends unite and really tie the territorial room together. An immersive week spent in the small Friuli-Venezia-Giulia outpost of Collio will change you, that much is true. The primary takeaway concerned wines of performance without obstacles, fluid achievements free of interruption, representing the vital energy and élan of their territory. Unbeknownst to many they are filled with an unfamiliar blissfulness, for how all will be realized.”

Collio Bianco blends

Angoris Langòr Collio Bianco DOC 2019

Simple, well made and effective Collio Bianco if much more phenolic than most. Likely a matter of friulano at the lead and malvasia very much a part of the mix. Solid, spicy, not perfectly clean, salty and not really traditional. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2022

The blend in ’22 is 50 percent friulano plus (25 each) ribolla gialla and sauvignon, all from one vineyard in the southern most part of Collio. Oriented northeast where the winds come through the valley in Brazzano for a cooler site within. Still the typical Ponca soils and specifically the Flysch of marine origin in Cormons. Special sort of citrus, an inward intensity and a mix of white grapes making for many layers. No compression but rather a breathable porousness so that the wine feels light and airy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2021

Stoic, high confidence if humble and classic Collio Bianco that is just about as linear as it is predicated on quality hill-raised fruit. Just seems to get it and deliver the authentic experience for the appellation. A clear reflection of human touch and land by way of a blend to tell a relatable story. Structure is also present for several years of aging. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Collio Bianco “Da Uve Autoctone” 2021, Collio Bianco DOC

Only made from endemic varieties and the Produttori wears it on its sleeve by declaring this on the bottle. Da Uve Autoctone, meaning ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia, the holy trinity and the ones to speak of the Ponca soils. Clean, apple, vintage-relatable, juicy and fleshy. Dictionary entry right here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2022

Based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. From vineyards in Bratinis and Zavognica, juicy as it gets and made lively by the specific Ponca soils prevalent in these two growing areas. Fruit is indeed yellow, blossoms are in bloom and exoticism is the way of this Bianco blend. For enjoyment, not cellaring. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2018

A Collio Bianco aged well should come to this. Lightly caramelized, balanced and refined. That is the case for Bràtinis, a blend pulled from three plots; Bràtinis, Zavognza and Ruttars at elevations ranging from 150 to 180m, all on Ponca soils. Lovely gelid lemon curd, an oily fatness and spice, plenty of salt and pepper spice. Luxe and balanced. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco Riserva DOC 2017

Riserva sees a minimum of 20 months in wood, as per the disciplinare of the Collio Consorzio. A fully formed, resolved and now mature 2017 here with flesh but also green apple crunch and bite. Quite spiced and peppery, tart, tight and high acid. Really interesting Collio Bianco! Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Korsič Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Maturing quickly, falling into oxidative behaviour and like green apple sauce at this early stage. Also aldehydic, phenolic and olive oil fruity. Not certain this was the intention but generous wood and warm vintage fruit have aligned for this kind of character. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Livon Collio Bianco DOC Solarco 2021

Well integrated, mostly seamless and properly structured Collio Bianco here from Livon with notable wood accents, nutty spice and a vanilla-caramel swirl. Nothing big in that regard mind you but the style is duly noted. Feels dominated by sauvignon, not surprising considering Livon sits right in the heart of that varietal country. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Collio Bianco DOC Studio Di Bianco 2019

Lovely and authentic style of Collio Bianco from Alessandro Pascolo, fruit ripe, fleshy, layered and properly integrated. A style with oak done so well, not lacking for energy and incorporating all its elements with distinction. That includes soils and place, which is Ruttars…but also riesling. Petrol comes across. Not to mention some age that will beget more age worthiness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Picech Jelka Collio Bianco DOC 2017

Notable oxidative lean and downward dive here from a six year-old Collio Bianco. Vanilla, oh so much vanilla, caramel and even nutty butterscotch. Has seen its best days fall by the wayside. Tasted July 2023

Ronchi Rò Collio Bianco DOC Bon Frut Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Bon Frut, a play on words meaning both “good son,” (figlio) in dialect and also good fruit. Really ripe and well layered mix of the endemic and obvious sauvignon, juicy as Collio Bianco can be. Intersect of tart and tang, natural fruit sweetness and proper salt and pepper seasoning. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Collio Bianco DOC Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Apple juice, pyrazine and simplicity to nose. More interest and complexity on the palate with salty and also sapid moments though certainly juicier than it is phenolic. The grip is not a tannic one but rather built on extract and pressed fruit. Powerful yet refined in that regard. Solid wine with plenty of energy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2020

Built on 70 percent friulano with chardonnay and malvasia, from four vineyards of all four expositions. Each vineyard is harvested with several passes, terraces at the base of the hill in the north, east and west coming off first. Baskets are chilled and three to four hours skin contact in the press. A few days or a week later the middle hills are taken, save for the south exposition. Only one or two nights skin contact on this fruit. The last pick is taken when the skins have browned, picked quickly and these grapes are in precarious shape. Three set of tanks withy three different wines. The seeking of three pillars to eventually be layered, of freshness, roundness and aftertaste. All three are there, golden hue and aromatic piquancy, warm and viscous, up there at 14.3 percent abv and liquid peppery, with beeswax and paraffin. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2019

Flinty, barrel fermented style like Bourgogne (Meursault especially) in an ambitious Collio Bianco that would not surprise if it were made with a healthy amount of chardonnay. Good use of wood, fulsome and able-bodied, well integrated once you get past the initial gun smoke reduction. Long finish puts this in good steading for some positive aging to happen. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Reductive and a bit stinky to be honest and a consistency of style for the house. Pyrazine, esters and also a wooly fuzziness. Mossy, lactic and peaty. Dios mio. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Cucco Wine 2022, Venezia-Giulia IGT

By now simply classic Friulian skin-contact white wine, peach tea colour, guaranteed to represent the category, as sure as the sun will rise and set. Three-varietal “bianco” called Cucco, as in the “darling” or “favourite,” made from malvasia, pinot grigio and friulano. Extremely clean example, ideal for those who like skin macerated whites and also for those who think they don’t. There is a natural sweetness of fruit and more than enough citrus to instil energy from start to finish. Villanova gets this style down and it simply turns out right. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023

Villa Russiz Collio Bianco DOC Maisha 2021

First question to ask is whether the varieties matter or should such a wine simply express as a sum of its parts. Well I can tell you there is much happening here and there is a feeling of compression, weight and especially alcohol. A bit heavy, caramelized, stewed even. So much wood and maturity as well, oxidative, warm and soft. Like well-oaked chardonnay for full-bodied red wine lovers who choose to drink white wine. Could very well be a 12-plus year-old Beringer Private Reserve. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Maisha Collio 2016, Venezia-Giulia IGT

A mix of friulano (60 percent) and at the time also likely ribolla gialla, the artist fast forward five years to 2021 where it will become Collio Bianco DOC (and also include malvasia). Feels like the white of 15 years ago were less botanical and phenolic, or perhaps that’s how long it takes to shed that grippy quality, but ’16 lands right in between. A creamy vintage that persists like this, obviously a ripe one and more friulano in character than ribolla, by far. This style is not made any more and the Collio Bianco that has replaced it is higher in both quality and also style. Tasted July 2023

Other varieties – Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Nero

Korsič Merlot Del Collio 2020, Collio DOC

Fabian Korsič is on San Fernando di Collio, there since 1969, first having bottled in 2011. There are six hectares, of merlot but also pinot grigio, chardonnay, ribolla gialla, malvasia and friulano. The future holds varietal cards and a Collio Bianco. The merlot comes frpon one hectare, was a steel ferment then aged in barriques and tonneaux, 20 percent new. Hard to imagine a constructed merlot more elegantly composed, full and concentrated. Fruit execution, structure complimentary and serving the fruit with reverence. Nothing out of place and will age gracefully for up to 10 years. Oak so well judged so that the sweetness outpaces austerity and also astringency. As impressive as it gets for merlot from Collio. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Bianco Santarosa 2018, Collio DOC

A solo pinot bianco, one of the varieties that owner Loretto Pali took a risk to plant and develop, much to the suspicions of some local farmers and producers. Look at where this grape has come in Capriva del Friuli and this may just be the place where it is most favoured. Lemon in many ways, some density, luxe character and unctuousness. Big yes to pinot bianco. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Nero Casanova 2018, Collio DOC

The other grape admitted by and invested in by owner Loretto Pali is pinot nero treated with respect and even reverence, especially for Collio. Here the plantings are less than one percent of the total and to be honest this example is as dense and developed as any, in spite of the challenges, namely ripeness, rain and humidity. Well-pressed and as a result both high toned and also austere at the finish. Liquorice, tar and density. Still needs another year in spite of the vintage going back to 2018. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Merlot Torriani 2018, Collio DOC

One of the two red grapes grown for a long time in Collio is merlot, along with cabernet sauvignon. What was always the everyday wine in the bars and restaurants is under new command, especially at Castello di Spessa. Quite a good vintage to eek out raspberry fruit but like the pinot nero, also liquorice and tar which speaks to place being stronger than variety. Chewy merlot, some strength and grip, resolving and pretty much ready to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

Hard to compare chardonnay to any of the more local grapes, including sauvignon and so on its own its level is high, of buttery richness and luxe fruit from an accumulation of warm vintage sunshine. Well made, chewy and with enough acid to keep it alive and well. Solid work with a slightly nutty to metallic finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Merlot 2013, Collio DOC

Warm, end of secondary life, edging and easily hinting towards the tertiary. Dried raspberry and a chalky Ponca underlay that shows the terroir right now, even if it lay beneath the wood before. The wood flavours are still apart of the mix and so the style and winemaking are clearly still on display. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villanova Merlot 2020, Collio DOC

The vineyard is Ronci San Giovanni, “the other hill,” a terroir with the same Ponca soil composition. The only Villanova red produced in the Collio DOC and spends two years between tonneaux and barriques. Idea is elegance meets structure and you know something, both are imagined with some easy fantasy. The berries are bluish red in flavour and acids are cool, sweet and supportive of a truly supple wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

It may be chardonnay and some of the vines may date back several decades but close your eyes and imagine this to be one of several white varieties raised in the Russiz hills; tells us how the Ponca terroir, Capriva micro-climate and time have all worked towards this means. That must be appreciated, talked about and celebrated. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

The cabernet sauvignon vines went in the ground in 2001 and here sit it’s grapes fermented into wine, comfortably and persistent in 2023. Impressive stature, in its second decade, poured 10 years after vintage. Chalky still, clearly structured and there must have been some fine summer through harvest weather to prepare this fruit for the kind of life in longevity it is clearly showing. The wood must have been problematic and overbearing for a while but it and the tannin have subsided to make way for the acids to be the current catalyst to buoy fruit and make this a current cabernet of undeniable pleasure. More magic from Villa Russiz. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

At Villa Russiz with Serena Delorenzi and Kennya Da Cruz

Villa Russiz Pinot Nero 2008, Collio DOC

Though 2008 pinot noir can’t hold a candle to the same vintage of sauvignon there is no doubt that it too has survived well going forward 15 years. Some caramel for sure, a tar and candied rose sensation, liquorice, herbal char and acids still moving with sharp edging. Good though not optimum shape yet all things considered a remarkable bit of longevity. From a 1994 planting. Tasted July 2023

Good to go!

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Monthly Archives: December 2023

Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Twenty-three Canadian wines that rocked in 2023

Another fine Collio experience

Malvasia

Ribolla Gialla

Friulano

Sauvignon

Pinot Grigio

Collio Bianco

Other varieties – Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Nero