Aged Grappas by Marolo
Fratelli Marolo is a legendary Piedmontese spirits house built by Paolo Marolo, Distillata a Bagnomaria, in Alba. Lorenzo Marolo represents the second generation, born in 1988. After completing his studies at the Scuola Enologica di Alba, Lorenzo completed a Business Management degree at Milan’s Bocconi University, then joined his family in 2014. His father was born in 1946 and was a pupil of Alba’a oenology school, but also studied biology. Paolo met Tiziana while teaching at Alba’s oenological school. At a very young age, in 1967, Paolo began teaching a course on the herbal extracts and liquors made by the great pharmacist, Pinot Gallizio. Gallizio was an artiste who wrote the book of recipes for the school – used by the professors, including Paolo. The first Marolo still was located in the garage of Lorenzo’s grandparents. This dates back to 1977, along with his brother, to lay down the roots for. the Santa Teresa Distillery out of that family home in Mussotto.
Lorenzo Marolo
The idea was to make single grape Grappas – in this regard the houses of Nonino and Marolo are the OGs. A pioneering spirit meant using bain-marie pot stills and aging in barrels made from native Piemonte wood. To create these fanciful if hugely useful and successful distillates it takes 100 kilograms of skins to make five litres of Grappa, but consider that 85 percent of the aromas and flavours come from the skins, spent ones or not. As a rule it takes 10-15 days to ferment, usually done in 400 kg plastic bins, pressed really tight. Like mechanical lagares meets a pneumatic press. “Grappa must always be soft,” insists Lorenzo Marolo, “of alcohol that soothes, not burns.” The most pressing question answered by Lorenzo is “why are these products born?” His answer arrives with a genuine smile. “From friendships with winemakers.” A few months ago I sat down with the affable Marolo at Eataly, his agent Joe Alberti of Noble Estates and Scandinavian wine and spirit educator/consultant Ulrika Ferlin. The entirety of this distillata world has been rewritten in my mind, with the greatest thanks to Lorenzo as current generation of one of the the world’s master distillers. Che piacere. These are the notes on the 10 Grappas tasted.
The marc of this moscato comes from seven producers and no shock to see this as one of the most floral of all the Grappa and also one as accessible as it gets. Preaches all chamomile, peach blossom but also almost tropical viognier in litchi and rose petals scents. “If you want to obtain perfume you must start from perfume” explains Lorenzo Marolo. It’s that simple and 99 per cent of the production is distilled in the autumn, best time for aromatics to be drawn out and into the 42 percent alcohol Grappa. With moscato the link to nature and vintage is 50-150 per cent more succinct because you can’t store thousands of kilos of skins in fridges for one, two or three years. This is moscato’s 2020 linalool as perfect as it gets. Remarkable. Tasted March 2023
This is a Grappa with the lowest alcohol (at 40 percent) which results in more fruity aromas and flavours, less spice and earthiness conversely speaking. Also a single vintage as with the other Marolo Grappas and the fruit variegate layers make this feel, think and distill so many ideas out of our imaginations. Keep in mind that a Bain-Marie method, slowly extracting what matters most, well this is how the smoothest Grappa imaginable coexists with that which is so highly perfumed. Minty cool, nothing feral or swarthy, everything beautiful. Tasted March 2023
Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2020
Specifically Bussia Cru Barolo (nebbiolo) and this just adds to the idea of single-vintage and also varietal, here realizing a top Barolo cru. Consider, imagine and sense the roses in this exceptional Grappa. Remember that Grappa is Grappa and choosing where and when is a matter of personal taste. This is surely the one of the three with the most power but this is not a glass of nebbiolo, it’s Grappa and so power equals command of your attention. Pay deeper heed to this example because grip and strength might distract and this is ultimately a spirit with just that. Shadowy with notes in the background of Vick’s vapour rub but it’s really balsamic, eucalyptus and other amaro-like flavours. So satisfying. Tasted March 2023
Marolo Grappa Di Brunello 2020
Lorenzo Marolo works with many Montalcino producers, including San Felice, Angelini, Donatella, Fanti, Lisini, Salvioni and Valdicava. Lisini, Salvioni and Valdicava are distilled separately, for some exports where the producers are represented (in common). “In terms of flavours likely the most common as we know Grappa to be,” likely because sangiovese has such a strong personality and the soil also comes through without barrier. A Galestro Grappa, a minerality that shades towards the earthy, without compromise to florals. And so this delivers it all. Tasted March 2023
Welcome to the tension of opposites, even more so the opposite of expectation. My how floral and generous – this Grappa from Amarone, Was expecting great power and grip yet the opposite comes from a remarkably floral Grappa. Aged longer and the colour will tell you this, but Lorenzo Marolo will tell you ”working with Amarone is a real pain in the ass,” because this distilling happens in January. Turning all those machines back on will test a distillers’s meddle. Aged in barriques, short yet sweet and enriching, not for power, as mentioned but for complexity. The aging is a covering, tactile addition, texture developing, a dress to bring more layers and again, complexity. Sweetness follows, rich and viscous, so many more steps up from the clear Grappas. Tasted March 2023
The most reserve and reticence on the nose, clearly a result of what happens when you age nebbiolo pomace longer. Tightens the screws, packs in the aromatics and also flavours, causes the need for air and swirling. Drink this from a wine glass, the space and the ability to agitate will release the true charm and grace. Suddenly there are aromatics and spices, star anise, cinnamon, clove and then capsicum and spicy caramel. Wow there is so much happening now, 100 percent oak casks, 20 previously used for marsala and 20 for white Piedmontese wines, including arneis. Tasted March 2023
With Lorenzo Marolo
Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2007
Barolo is the only Grappa that carries an IGT designation, which means it has to be distilled in the region, no exceptions. This is due to there being a village, not just a wine. To make the Bussia more “domesticated” the nebbiolo skins are aged in (used) Acacia casks which brings a buttery nuttiness, truly local hazelnuts and ripe fruits, namely apricot and dried persimmon (cachi), with indelibly stamped nebbiolo through the finish. Finished at 45 percent alcohol to keep the freshness and balsamico of Bussia. Tasted March 2023
A 15 year-old Grappa, aged in new Acacia casks, here finished at 50 percent alcohol, simply because more power and intelligence is what this nebbiolo Grappa demands. Grappa contains three times more oil than whiskey (because of skins and also seeds) and so there already is a cask strength feeling and there is a danger to damage the delicacy of the perfume if too much pressure is put on the pressing and aging of this fine Grappa. The effect on the nose here is pure spice incarnate, nuts of the purest oil separated and rising like an inhalant storm upon the olfactory. Really leathery, a new pair of shoes coming from the box. Piquant like no other Grappa ever tasted. Orange zest, caramel but a flavoured one, with ginger and lemongrass. Tasted March 2023
Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2001
“Twenty (years) for me,” shrugs Lorenzo Marolo, “many times is too much.” That is because it’s a chewy Grappa, textural and meant for warm nights indoors while the snow falls outside. You do not take this Grappa lightly – you take a glass when it matters, at its proper usage. All the aromatics, spices, florals, nuttiness and brown bits are there yet softer, rounder and as mentioned – so very textural. Tar, leather, caramel, butterscotch, something you chew and it is very impressive. Tasted March 2023
Marolo Grappa Di Barolo Bussia 2001
After 12 or 13 years the batch is separated from the other aged Barolo Grappa and the transfer to different cask takes place, making the exchange with alcohol softer and rounder, without compromising the integrity and DNA of the original grape. First vintage was 1983 and now the maximum production is 1,000 bottles. Only 50 per cent is sold to the market, the rest to keep for the family, to share, to bring around the world for special occasions and a few for eager collectors here and there. Everything hits the heights, gives away what is special about every level of nebbiolo Grappa and the hypnotic grasp is here effected. The dream-state is now uncompromisingly rhythmic and rejuvenating at the same time. Grappa of this age and confidence is in total control and there is little choice but to submit. All becomes quiet. Tasted March 2023
Good to go!
godello
Aged Grappas by Marolo
Twitter: @mgodello
Instagram: mgodello
Godello 