The sparkling rise of Alta Langa

Godello, Alta Langa blind tasting (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

This is the story of Alta Langa, Alte Bollicine Piemontesi. A portrait of proposal for a clearly defined class and style of sparkling wines led by a young, energetic and promising 20-year old Consorzio. An organization led by President MariaCristina Castelletta of Tosti1820 and Vice-President Giovanni Carlo Bussi of San Marzano Oliveto charged with the valourization of Alta Langa DOCG, a dry, vintage-dated Spumante obtained through the traditional method from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes grown on the Piedmontese hills. Their work carries forward from past Consorzio Alta Langa presidents Giulio Bava (Giulio Cocchi, 2013-2022), Lamberto Vallarino Gancia (F.lli Gancia, 2010-2013), Giovanni Carlo Bussi (Viticoltore di San Marzano Oliveto, 2004-2010) and Giorgio Giusiana (Martini & Rossi, 2001-2004). The date was June 15, 2001 in Asti, after more than 10 years of in-depth and methodical research and studies on the suitability of the area, to bring together winegrowers and producers involved in the development of a wine, an appellation and a territory. The common link was the steadfast adherence to classic Champenoise method sparkling wines made with grapes six years after planting. Il Consorzio Alta Langa protects and promotes the ideals of like-minded producers in search of the finest bubbles that can be made.

For the last two years the wine and also social media narrative has been played annoyingly on repeat, of grave reports concerning the decline of global wine consumption and yet there is an essential category on the rise. Sparkling wines are doing fine, with thanks of course in great part to bottles of Italian method examples produced in the hundreds of millions. A skewed graph perhaps but as long as there are bubbles we can’t really complain and yet we know that traditional method styles are what matter most. This is why news of the acclivity and proliferation of classic method effervescent wines is of the best kind. The question is how many are aware about production out of the northwestern part of Italy? For there is Piemonte, from the word piedmont, meaning “at the foot of a mountain,” an alpine arc of a vineterland surrounded to the south, west, and north by the vast Ligurian Apennines. Best known for growing red grape varieties, namely nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto, also the whites of cortese and arneis, but in Piedmont there is this great affinity with the expatriate grapes from Champagne. The affair is nearly 175 years old, but what has been occurring over the last two decades will act as the impetus for shaping the future.

Where in Piemonte?

The Alta Langa DOCG area of production of grapes intended for the production of Alta Langa sparkling wines consists of the parcels on hillsides in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria, in the territories of the following municipalities:

Province of Alessandria: Acqui Terme, Alice Bel Colle, Belforte Monferrato, Bistagno, Bosio, Capriata d’Orba, Carpeneto, Cartosio, Casaleggio Boiro, Castelnuovo Bormida, Castelletto d’Erro, Castelletto d’Orba, Cassine, Cassinelle, Cavatore, Cremolino, Denice, Grognardo, Lerma, Malvicino, Melazzo, Merana, Molare, Montaldeo, Montaldo Bormida, Montechiaro d’Acqui, Morbello, Mornese, Morsasco, Orsara Bormida, Ovada, Pareto, Parodi Ligure, Ponti, Ponzone, Prasco, Predosa, Ricaldone, Rivalta Bormida, Rocca Grimalda, San Cris toforo, Sezzadio, Silvano d’Orba, Spigno Monferrato, Strevi, Tagliolo Monferrato, Terzo, Trisobbio and Visone.

Province of Asti: Bubbio, Calamandrana, Calosso, Canelli, Cassinasco, Castel Boglione, Castelletto Molina, Castelrocchero, Cessole, Coazzolo, Fontanile, Loazzolo, Maranzana, Monastero Bormida, Mombaldone, Mombaruzzo, Montabone, Olmo Gentile, Quaranti, Roccaverano, Rocchetta Palafea, San Giorgio Scarampi, San Marzano Oliveto, Serole, Sessame and Vesime.

Province of Cuneo: Alba (territori alla destra orografica del fiume Tanaro), Albaretto Torre, Arguello, Bastia, Belvedere Langhe, Benevello, Bergolo, Bonvicino, Borgomale, Bosia, Bossolasco, Briaglia, Camerana, Camo, Carrù, Castellino Tanaro, Castelletto Uzzone, Castiglione Tinella, Castino, Cerretto Langhe, Ceva (territori alla destra orografica del torrente Cevetta fino alla confluenza nel Tanaro, da qui i territori alla destra orografica del fiume Tanaro), Cigliè, Clavesana, Cortemilia, Cossano Belbo, Cravanzana, Diano d’Alba, Dogliani, Farigliano, Feisoglio, Cissone, Gorzegno, Gottasecca, Grinzane Cavour, Igliano, Lequio Berria, Levice, Mango, Marsaglia, Mombarcaro, Monchiero, Mondovi’ (territori alla destra orografica del torrente Ellero fino a raggiungere da sud l’abitato di Mondovi, quindi proseguendo verso nord-est i territori a destra della s.s. 28 per Fossano, fino al confine comunale con Magliano Alpi), Monesiglio, Monforte d’Alba, Montelupo Albese, Murazzano, Neviglie, Niella Belbo, Niella Tanaro, Novello, Paroldo, Perletto, Pezzolo Valle Uzzone, Piozzo, Prunetto, Roascio, Rocca di Cigliè, Rocchetta Belbo, Roddino, Rodello, Sale Langhe, Sale San Giovanni, Saliceto, San Benedetto Belbo, Santo Stefano Belbo, Serralunga d’Alba, Serravalle Langhe, Sinio, Somano, Torre Bormida, Torresina, Treiso, Trezzo Tinella and Vicoforte.

Alba truffles

The goods on geology

Two agronomy experts, Edmondo Bonelli (soils) and Maurizio Gily (viticulture) present Alta Langa to a group of local and foreign journalists. It begins with the sedimentary origin of crystalline rocks from two geological areas, first the firmer central and then the outer areas of alpine rocks. Currently there are no vineyards in this area yet but likely will be so in the future. Challenging terroir, but it’s coming. Sedimentary soils are of marine origin, silty or sandy, on hillsides and usually calcareous, most relatively high in water retention capacity. The calcaire is not the same as chalk but it is calcium carbonate. Layered rocks with marls, sand, conglomerates or gypsum, 30-2.5 million years in origin (Oligocene-Miocene-Pliocene), again sand-silt-clay-calcium carbonate. Sandstones are Pietra di Langhe and can be as deep as six kms of stratified rocks down into the earth. The descriptor “Langhe” comes from Langiano or Langian – a geological epoch named after this area. There are the Molare Formation, Cassinasco Formation and sandstones of Diano. Monseglio Formation, Cortemilla Formation, Cessole Formation, Lequio Formation, Murazzano Formation, each named after a village in the Langhe area (of sandy and silty layers and high calcium carbonate). Rochetta Formation, Marls of Parolo, Sant’Agata Marls (silty medium calcium carbonate).

Tajarin con Tartufo Alba Bianco

The Carta Geologica dell’Alta Lange is spilt into eight formations, of eight colours, highlighted by La Malora Beppe Fenoglio, famous Romanzo from San Benedetto Belbo. If we compare Winkler zones, the area is ccooler than Barolo yet quite a bit warmer than Champagne. Biodiversity of the hills is always considered, as are the forests, animals and rivers, they being the Tanaro, Bello, Bormida and Orba. Light soils “dip,” darker soils “anti-dip.” Truth is they are relatively young geologically speaking with lots of erosion and soil movement. Their retention and release of water depends on soil structure and this is also what determines vine (and canopy) growth more than any other factor. But it is the type of soil that deals in different water dynamics. The vines adapt their metabolism by following their soil conditions. A lot of research has gone into picking the right clone of pinot nero for making Alta Langa.

Alta Langa journalists with President Mariacristina Castelletta of Tosti1820 (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Disciplinare

Alta Langa DOCG regulations say that pinot noir and/or chardonnay vines account for 90 to 100 percent of the wines and grapes from non-aromatic varieties suitable for cultivation in Piedmont and may contribute the remaining 10 percent. In the vineyards minimum elevation is set at 250 masl, planting density not less than 4,000 vines per hectare, training forms and pruning systems need be traditional, of low espalier with traditional Guyot or spurred cordon pruning. Maximum grape yields are 11 tonnes per hectare and minimum alcohol is set at 11.5 percent abv. Minimum total acidity is 5 g/l and minimum non-reducing extract is 15 g/l. Yields are subject to change, by approval, in circumstances of favourable and also challenging vintages. Vinification, bottling, processing and aging operations of “Alta Langa” wines must be carried out in Piedmont. From vintage to vintage the maximum addition is 15 percent, of younger “Alta Langa” to older “Alta Langa.”

With the AIS Piemonte Sommeliers

The use of the simple term “bottle fermentation” is prohibited in the designation of Alta Langa DOCG. Allowable definitions and descriptions are “bottle fermentation according to the traditional method,” or “traditional method,” or “classic method,” or “traditional classic method.” Lees aging rules are no less than thirty months for Alta Langa Spumante DOCG and Alta Langa Spumante Rosé DOCG. Wines labelled as Riserva require 36 months of lees aging.

Godello at the Masterclass given by Bonelli and Gily (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

History

It was around 1850 when Marquis Leopoldo Incisa included several French grape varieties in his ampelographic collection located in the vineyards of Rocchetta Tanaro, in what was then the province of Alessandria (which also included Asti). At that time these grape varieties did not meet with much favour, especially among winegrowers. However Gancia created the first Italian Spumante with a Muscat base, in 1865, at a time when farmers held an aversion to foreign vines. This was still witnessed toward the end of the century by the complaints of the owner who succeeded Marquis Incisa, who could find no farmers willing to grow them. In fact, by the mid-19th century, there was no shortage of pinot noir plantings in Piedmont. As early as the first decades of the 1800s, the Counts of Sambuy had begun to introduce some renowned French grape varieties with the specific aim of improving local wine production.

Blind tasting Alta Langa DOCG wines (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa

Carlo Gancia was the pioneer who favoured the spread of pinot noir and chardonnay among the winegrowers in the Canelli district. Gancia saw the possibilities for having a certain quantity to use in the production of his sparkling wines. With the Spumante Metodo Classico Project in Piedmont, of which the “Alta Langa” appellation was born, the Piedmont sparkling wine industry made a valuable contribution of economic and technological commitment to a vocation that had remained unexpressed for decades outside the mere scientific sphere. It was shown that the hills of Piedmont, where vines had over time settled a significant and enduring presence, could work very well with the French grape varieties.

With Gancia oenologist Dr. Donato Lanati

The wines of Gancia today

Gancia is the forerunner of today’s experimental innovation that acts as the basis for the production of the Brut Alta Langa. In 1931 the company contributed to the creation of the denomination Asti for sweet sparkling wines made from muscat and also the first white vermouth made from the moscato. In 1980 they launched the first sparkling wine “pinot di pinot,” using three varieties of that family of grapes. The most important work has come with lees aging using a mix of Champagne grapes. “Whether or not you like a particular aroma in a wine is a subjective fact,” explains renowned Oenologist Dr. Donato Lanati. “It’s all about the amino acids coming together over time – they make the aromas.” Dr. Lanati believes the wines plateau after a 60-70 months stay on lees. After that they will not continues to develop enough favourable nuance and complexity. He recommends that after 10 years you have to turn the bottles nose down in storage to avoid unwanted excess oxidation.

Gancia Vino Base Pinot Nero 36 Mesi Rosé Alta Langa (Campione Da Vasca) 2023

A base wine destined for Alta Langa, still turbid with a high content of yeast activity using amino acids to get somewhere intentional over a long period of time. Salty entry and salty finish with intensities through the middle, grapefruit standing out and unrefined acids – rough for now. Comes from vineyards at 450m and the breeze does blow through this striking base wine. Dr. Donato Lanati explains that it is ”kept cloudy on purpose to avoid having to sulphur because the yeasts are a thousand times more effective as a protector against oxidation then sulphur dioxide.” Just a part of a cuvée and the process that sees an opaque sample mix with other cloudy base wines to create clarity in its final housing. Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 36 Mesi Alta Langa Rosé DOCG 2018

Minor reduction which is in fact something that is important because “things would be a lot more serious if drinking a glass would make you want to drink a glass of water,” kids Dr. Donato Lanati. Sounds like a joke but in these climate change and extreme times you can taste what would not have been tasted before and Gancia knows, with 150 years of experience in crafting sparkling wines. Aging some of the base wines in wood goes a long way to control the reduction and yet some reduction is a good thing. There is some sweetness in the perfume which is a result of a portion having been aged in a “sweet” wood. This sulphur dioxide character mixed with some acetates that have yet to fully dissipate are what drive aromatic pulchritude and it is the esters (within reason) which will bind with amino acids to eliminate any semblance of confection. There is a small dosage here but it in fact under wonderful control and while Rosé by nature is rounder than Bianco, well no matter or judgement because the mix of tension and elasticity is really well managed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 36 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2015

Same amount of time on the yeasts and yet three years further bottle time although Bianco (Brut) is always different than Rosé with this Gancia Alta Langa immediately caught with more tension and overall taut behaviour. Freshness incarnate and scintillant intensity without compromise and all intentions are exercised for good and proper reason. Impressive balance and stage presence here from a master sparkling wine producer that is not just the original but currently under the supervisor of a master scientist, that being Dr. Donato Lanati who is one with the chemistry and physiology of these sparkling wines. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia Riserva 60 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2012

Wild to taste this just about five years to the day after the 24 month-ages 2012 back in December of 2019. All the scientific tenets of sulphur dioxide, amino acids, yeasts and esters come to their development line at 60 months of aging on the less and this Brut has passed over by leaving any awkwardness of unresolved notes behind. It is now in fine linear verticality and drinks with Bianco distinction. Crisp, fresh, crunchy and fraught with important if profound tension, citrus and herbs, length and just that right amount of finishing bitters. Scientific does not begin to explain how precise and well designed this acts and delivers as Alta Langa sparkling wine. That said another year will only serve to solidify the evolution and set this up for all we, they and everyone else could hope it could be. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted December 2023

Cuvée Gancia Riserva 170 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2005

From a wine made by previous illustrious oenologist Piergiorgio Cane and found by Dr. Donato Lanati who resisted any temptation to change, delete or add anything to the wine. That it has aged between 14 and 15 years on the lees begs the question of how long is too long or more to the point where is the line at which the wine no longer changes to develop more nuances for positive results. Intuitively, if also extrospectively in its maturation to arrive at this dried porcino mushroom and oxidative state. It’s a museum wine in every respect and while it does not deliver freshness or pretty pleasure it does deliver a most fascinating tasting experience. The palate is really in fine shape and that is where some excitement and freshness persists. Twenty minutes does not kill the wine and it continues to evolve, so in the end this does what it surely was intended and wanted to do. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino

The innovation of Enrico Serafino

In a word, a visionary. Cavaliere Enrico Serafino (of the Romano Cavanese) is considered to be one of the “wise men of oenology” that defines Italian wine. He sold wine in China as far bak as 1910 and the winery is one of the first producers of Alta Langa to invest in concrete vats. Today the company led by President & CEO Nico Conta produces eight different sparkling wines from 56 parcels in 41 vineyards found in 16 villages. In 1994 Enrico Serafino joined the (1990 established) Piedmont Sparkling Wine Project, the year of the first experimental vintage, with the aim of identifying the best areas to plant pinot noir and chardonnay. The 2023 harvest marked their 145th and the annual sparkling production is approximately 200,000 (of 360,000 total) bottles. Serafino ws acquired in 2014 by Kyle Krause Gentile and the current ownership recently purchased Elena Penna and Luca Corrado’s Vietti.

The company practices sustainable viticulture, biodiversity protection and the promotion of social initiatives. It actively works to reduce water consumption and uses 100 percent electricity from renewable sources. Bottles are made from at least 65 percent recycled glass, packaging from 70 percent natural paper (International Forest Certification System and corks are 100 percent recyclable. In 2021 Serafino obtained the renewal of VIVA Certification of Organization as well as product for Alta Langa Oudeis, the only Alta Langa certified. VIVA is a protocol of the Italian Ministry of Environment and Land and Sea Protection designed to assess sustainability performance and communicate it to consumers.

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Zero Pas Dosé 2012

The no dosage metodo classico is known as Sboccatura Tardiva, meaning late disgorgement and a wine first made in 2004. Poured from magnum which is well known to deliver a markedly fresher and youthful sparkling wine when the traditional method is involved. The ’12 is the first to be a solo pinot noir, here with zero residual sugar and a disgorgment from 2018. Extreme level of toast and a pH under 3.0, wondrous and excitable because the total acidity runs higher than 8.5 g/L, yet comfortably under 9.0. Makes for a salty bubble compounded by the silty, calcareous soils of marine origin. Citrus zesty, both lemon and orange, with more spiced accents to this dry Martini of a sparkling wine. Lip-smacking, briny and effortlessly saline, chalky-dry and so well arranged from 100 months on its lees. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Zero 140 Pas Dosé 2012

“140,” as in that number of months “potentially” spent on lees which in many cases runs past the vanishing point of increased returns, but with Serafino the extra 40 (or more) seems plenty justified. A 20,000-30,000 bottle production that acts so much more demure and soft than the (100 – 2012) with aromatics spoken in a seductive whisper. Everything changes with a dynamic paradigm shift onto the explosive palate where the 85 percent pinot noir (and 15 chardonnay) begins to quiver with nervous tension and excitement before complex flavours emerge. This bottle was disgorged this year and so took the full 140 advantage. The longest level of aging suggests this should be left open to evolve in the glass as long as any sparkling wine on the planet. That is if you are looking for an aromatic emergence, with an awakening forest, pencil shavings and poached pear. Subtle at first, many layers to unfold, a toasty quality, acidity and chalky earth, less obvious than the ’12 but with more mystery, fantasy and possibility. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023

Alta Langa dinner at

Some dinner wines

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2018

Also labeled as DOP because “dad always believed that DOP stood for quality,” tells oenologist Umberto Bera. He was also one of the first 10 to join the Consorzio Alta Langa. The mix is 70 percent chardonnay and (30) pinot noir, 15 months on lees. A mix of toasty and autolytic notes, 5 g/L of RS, well beneath the Brut threshold. Disgorged in May, 2023 and so the aging time is nearly three times that 15 months and Bera disgorges three times per year. Showing some secondary level maturity with ample freshness preserved and a persistence of energy. Last tasted December 2023

Nothing overt but yes there is a phenolic and also metallic presence within the aromas. Lemon drop and also herbs, not quite sweet but like basil or better yet slightly more resinous like tarragon. Good crunch in palate texture with stuffing and a mouthful to be had before moving sideways into more metals and botanicals. A periodic wave of elements and emotions form this Extra Brut mix of chardonnay and pinot noir, likely close to half and half. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Blanc De Noirs Pas Dosé 2017

Under the ownership of Giulio Bava, created in 1981 and has always produced Alta Langa in Piemonte. “Alta Langa has a soul of its own,” tells Roberto Bava, “and a personality reflective of just two varieties, pinot noir and chardonnay.” The B de N is 100 percent pinot, five years spent on lees and Bava notes the sapidity of this wine. “next to (minerality), which all Alta Langa wines must have, played out in different ways.” Truly stoic and direct with dried herbal notes, pencil lead, sage and dry, dry, dry. Who needs sugar in such wines? Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023

Deltetto Alta Langa DOCG Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé 2016

“A great passion of my father was Spumante Método Classico, first made in 1980,” tells Carlo Deltetto. “The business card of the winery is the Alta Langa.” This despite the winery being primarily a Roero producer. The ’16 is the inaugural Riserva, pas dosé style which for Alta Langa incidentally is done incredibly well as a sparkling wine region. The key here is elevation, of vineyards averaging 470m, directing the sapid nature of this bubble. Who needs sugar when you have an arc of both richness and flavour, developed of natural sweetness, all leading to captured balance. Impressive acids help the wine be direct and precise, already now with good age in pocket. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Rosato Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero De Saignée 2016

Ripe, high level fruit and mature, advancing and settling into a secondary state. Scents of lemon iced tea and this from a wine no longer part of the Serafino portfolio. Simple, 100 percent pinot nero, pas dosé, disgorged in 2022. Demure on the nose yet explosively expressive on the palate. Labeled saignée but like much of Alta Langa Rosato it’s really just a matter of a quick maceration to bring out the rusty hue. A curious acidity to make this seem as dry as any of the no dosage style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc De Blanc 65 Mesi 2016

If at first this seems to be par for the no dosage course well think again because with chardonnay the fruit stands out so very expressive. Germano’s dream was to make Bianco and so 1988 was the year to exploit riesling and chardonnay at 500-600m of vineyard elevation in the Tanaro River valley. In 2000 the sparkling journey began and the first cuvée was made in 2003. This ’16 marks the second vintage of the blanc de blanc, 65 months on lees, an equal mix of salinity and sapidity for gastronomy in a bottle. Three essential pillars of Alta Lang that give the sessantacinque its credibility and promise of top quality. Precise, chiseled and full of class. Fabulous traditional method sparkling white. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 60 Mesi Brut Riserva Alta Langa DOCG 2011

Clarity of a blue sky with some density to it and the smoothest, most polished Gancia Alta Langa there ever was. For the entire denomination in fact, or any style of sparkling wine. Obviously vintage related but also the extra time allotted, above and beyond 60 months on lees. Luxe aromas and flavours, rich polyphenolic moments and the sweetset sapidity ever. Polyphonic, multi tonal, melodic lines melting into and becoming one another. Tonic, lemon preserve and the finest of bitters. Serious simultaneity and seamless presence. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Bicentenario Pas Dosé 2010

Tosti has spent 200 years of making this 100 percent pinot noir, pas dosé cuvée, not always but this anniversary edition saw some wood aging. Just 2-3 g/L of (inconsequential) residual sugar an 105 months of lees aging, disgorged in 2020. From two plots in Canelli and Alba, estate and grower fruit. Rich, a mellow golden toast, intensity of flavour, fleshy and lengthy. Very all-purpose sparkling wine, well formed, formulated and generous. Quintessentially Alta Langa. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023

Alta Langa seminar

The blind tasting (69 wines)

Bianco

San Silvestro Alta Langa DOCG Albarè Pas Dosé 2020

Blanc de Blancs, only chardonnay as per the disciplinare and pas dosé so just the natural fruit facts. Subtlety and therefore what should be noted as a light toast and once again the fruity notes continue to press the theory that chardonnay performs more in this way with no dosage as compared to pinot noir. The sharpness and lightning strike on the palate is consistent with the theoretical style. Finishes with neutral citrus pith and minor bitters. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Coppo Alta Langa DOCG Brut Luigi Coppo 2020

Strikes out at a higher aromatic tone, less subtle and demure as a chardonnay and so the terroir feels heavier, of more density in the soil structure and a weightier result comes out. Palate presence is sturdy and strong, flavours wild and exotic, lemongrass namely and also a guava to lemon curd connection. Great flavour intensity and length. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Deltetto Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2020

A heavy aromatic inhalant, weighty and not easily induced with little to no aerosol quality. An oxidative style with lemongrass, ginger and cardamom, neither herbal nor particularly fruity. Quite tart, citrus namely and quite chardonnay of nature, though a bit gangly and awkward overall. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ferraris Agricola Alta Langa DOCG Brut Tenuta Santa Chiara 2020

Leaning oxidative with maturing notes up front. Complex and exotic, gingered, toasty and very expressive with a wide range of fruit, herb and mineral flavours. Textural as well to add another dimension and potentially three of them from this curious and crafty chardonnay. That early note of oxidation will serve it well. Not long on the lees, yet really well made. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Terrabianca Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2021

Young specimen, a Bianco (therefore 100 percent chardonnay) not long, if likely the bare minimum on its lees. Tight, I mean really taut and wound around like a winch tightening a spindle. There is citrus but not really any other fruit to speak largely of. Lighting strike of Alta Langa without autolysis, bready-yeasty quality of density. Power is all up front and neutrality follows. Just too young to see through the trees but not certain much else will follow. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Vite Colte Alta Langa DOCG Brut Cinquecento 2020

Quite the complex nose for a young Alta Langa Bianco with that nice little note of fresh cheese that should develop some nuttiness, compound butter flavour and receive its structure after some time in bottle. Even more so than other cuvées of similar vintage and ilk that have yet to be disgorged. Brut so there is some sugar but hardly noticeable because acids and intensity are both in charge. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cerrino Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Nothing but chardonnay and a few years on lease for a yeasty, autolytic and on autopilot example. A bit too much autolytic behaviour and so some odd flavours have crept in. Not a pristine pour to be sure. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Contratto Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc de Blancs 2019

Brilliant beginning to this 100 percent chardonnay without dosage. Power yet a restrained one and seamless transitions throughout. Fine balance between acidity and texture, intention and complexity. True deal in the Alta Langa style that delivers fruit from chardonnay while also a matter of soil and place. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fabio Perrone Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Chardonnay and no dosage with that ever consistent play of fruit first on the nose and then replayed with lovely swirls as the palate presence and flavours march on. Good density and purity here with fine acid structure though either a bit young or not necessarily the most complex example. Perfect right now and will stay this way for another year – after that it will likely soften and the bitters expand upon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Mauro Sebaste Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Avremo 2019

Some foraged fungi on the nose, not unusual for chardonnay however it replaces the fruit to a good degree. Good and fine bitters with lemon in many respects. A bit of preserve but mostly the juiced fruit if not the one most perfectly fresh. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Alta Langa blind tasting revealed

Contratto Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé For England Blanc de Noirs 2019

Maturing and oxidative example, noted first in golden hue and then the bronzing, sun-tanned feeling on the aromatics. Gingered and orange scraped palate notes yet dry as the desert and caught up in taut intensity. Really complex, very “Cap Classique” in style or Champagne that leans notably oxidative. A specific way of doing things for sure and one done very well. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Pianbello Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Orme 2019

Quite classic, stoic, taut and yet highly tonal pronounced iteration of untreated chardonnay without dosage. Straightforward, unabashed, running hither and thither with just about everything Alta Langa will offer in this dry, untamed and free to be style. Very well made in all these knowable respects. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Rizzi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Aromatic, more than many, especially considering the style, that being Blanc de Blancs without any dosage. The flavours and textures follow suit though the autolysis takes charge in notes of cheese rind plus bitters. A bit overdone in this regard and so the finish falls off as a result though there is certainly character and charm for short term drinking. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenuta Carretta Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Airali 2019

Quite phenolic and reserved aromatically speaking. True aridity in the pas dosé idiom and the palate changes nothing about that in this way. Crunchy Alta Langa and it does begin to change and become something other with some time in glass. Next level flavours and also texture comes out to finish with that pencil lead and bitter tincture drops of chardonnay God. Give this some time. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Cuvée Aurora 2019

Another phenolic entry and so one of those sapid style of Alta Langa chardonnay is expected. And so it is with dry botanical aromatic notes followed by great flesh, lemon and lime in all their parts and extended play for a very important and lengthy example. Holds all the necessary tenets and stuffing to see this age well, but also evolve to become something special. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Daffara & Grasso Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Very lemon up front, bigger aromatic thrust than many but we’re out of Pas Dosé and into Extra Brut with this Blanc de Blancs. Fine lines and pretty good purity with quite a notable level of bitters though we are aware of how well they integrate into the fabric and framework of a properly executed and structured sparkling wine. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Extra Brut accommodation and you feel the juxtaposition of sugars and acids in the aromatics. Feels riper and fleshier but only the palate can confirm or confound that idea. Does the first and then goes into full citrus juice squeeze, though it’s manifold, of lemon, lime and also grapefruit. The destiny of this wine is to see some cheese and funk in the future but so many will see the love and the beats in that next stage. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Alta Langa at Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo

Ivaldi Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Andrea Blanc de Blancs 2019

Quite phenolic, plenty of citrus flesh but also custardy orchard fruit. Extra Brut and you note the sweetness, nothing simple here and it does elevate the style. This will have wide appeal for its easy, if earlier drinking ability. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Marcalberto Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Millesimo2mila19 2019

Truly proper in the Extra Brut Bianco ways of Alta Langa are extracted, exerted and extrapolated upon with a fine 2019. Lemons and apples, tart and tight on the palate, great acidity moving all ways including sideways, all parts together, linear, vertical and powerfully restrained. A very fine example from a warm and yet promising vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Marziano Abbona Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

The sapidity spoken of by agronomists and producers is here on the phenolic front in this Bianco Extra Brut. Captures a certain side of Chardonnay and does so with stoic, reserved, complicated and trenchant nature. This wine has purpose and feels so very serious. It will need a few years to settle and hopefully prepare some flesh for a more pronounced Alta Langa experience. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Massimo Rivetti Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

More juiciness and terpene action up front as compared to many and so a slightly later harvest from a warm vintage seems to be the fruit matter on order. Some maturity and a bruised apple note in the flavour profile confirms this and while acidity is spot on there is this feeling of flattening out at the finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Le Rapide 2019

The Extra Brut Alta Langa as Bianco seem to act tart in one of the three ways. Sharp and restrained, maturing or as it does here which is phenolic to imagine a sapid sparkling wine. Not exactly the opposite of salty but a different sort of mineral style, that is to say a sparkling wine that is a direct result or at least one that speaks with true correlative nature to the place. That being a terroir surely sandstone based with some slit, minor calcareous parts and older soils, geologically speaking. A vertical wine with great apposite if transferring and complimentary fleshy texture and a wine as long as is gets. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roccasanta Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Phenolic, for the most part with some green notes and plenty of terpene as well. A bit overdone, likely picked a bit tardy and so acidity is more dense and botanical than the team probably wished it to be. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenuta Rocca Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Expressive and quite tightly wound example of Extra Brut for chardonnay as a Bianco or Blanc de Blancs style. Lemon in every respect, more juice and zest than pith but it’s all truly represented. Fine work in a very specific, taut, direct and scintillant way. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Il Viaggio 2019

Still in the Extra Brut conceptualization for (chardonnay) Bianco and of the three styles this comes out phenolic and well extracted. An example that transfers really well onto the palate with tart juiciness and true blue varietal acidity that travels up and down the sides of the palate. Not the most complex sparkling wine and lacks some depth but it’s solid, well made and serves great purpose. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Agricola Brandini Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

The first true reductive Alta Langa in flight of 69 with this being the 26th pour. Agitation does blow off some steam and allow fruit to rise like cream to the surface. What is next is great purity and a creaminess to the mousse unlike any other thus far. These flavours are rich and frankly delicious though that reduction will be a detraction for some. The finish is long and nurturing. Stick with this wine if you want the right kind of reward. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Blind tasting Alta Langa (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Bosca Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ispiro 2019

As quiet as it gets aromatically speaking from a Brut for chardonnay out of a warm and promising vintage. Though the entry was a reserved and yet giving one there is much more happening on the palate. Heavy dose of lemon, fresh squeezed and ready to integrate with the sapid-mineral wealth of this wishing to be serious example. Here is an Alta Langa with true karst from bones that stand upright with great skeletal verticality that suggests poor soils and plenty of calcium carbonate for a result that could only be like this. This winemaking team paid great respect to the terroir. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cascina Cerutti Alta Langa DOCG Brut Enrico Cerutti 2019

Well made, simple, straightforward, a bit bitter and creamy iteration of chardonnay in the local ways of Brut sparkling wine. Short and to the point. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa DOCG Brut Blanc de Blancs 2019

Quite the phenolic lift as opposed to that aromatic ripeness style that can sometimes weigh down Alta Langa sparkling. A botanical example with replay on the palate that confirms the suspicion. Good integration of parts with acidity more than well and good but the phenols outweigh all else and take back power in the end. An herbal example, possibly because of heavier and more organic soils that deliver some increased vigour and therefore likely yields iin the vines. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Il Cascinone Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Alasia 2019

The first Alta Langa Riserva at pour number 30 in a flight of 69 and a stoic one at that, with must reserve in the tank. High ranking parts, namely substantial if notably compact fruit that puts this is a place of yet unresolved business. The acidity is similar of nature meaning its not of scintillant action but rather one of weight as well. This could use some time to see if it will open up and rise up as it likely wants to, after being interred by too much gravity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Paolo Berutti Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

High terpene level and so orchard fruit (namely apples) are front and centre for this chardonnay of Brut categorization. Crisp enough and acidity is elevated though the parts are a bit disparate and there is some bruising of the fruit. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Pecchenino Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ecole 2019

Cheese funky and bruised. Not a good bottle or perhaps past prime. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

With Alta Langa Consorzio President Mariacristina Castelletta and Journalist Åsa Johansson (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Piazzo Comm. Armando Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ritorno in 2019

Reduction released by agitation quite quickly so note to self and to others be sure to give this sparkling Alta Langa a swish and a swirl. Grippy example, fully fleshed and giving much aromatic fruit, palate presence, fleshiness, some creamy texture and finally that local sapidity so often talked about. There is much going on in this Brut though it does not soften in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Sara Vezza Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

The kind of aromatic entry that causes a raise of one eyebrow because it’s a combination of maturity and intrigue. A very young wine in one respect and on the other also one of experience. Rich at first and then repeated, but also a matter of fine acidity before rising and then settling with tonic and bitters. Seriously complex activity here and if perhaps a polarizing Bianco then so be it because the chardonnay and pinot noir each do so much to variegate the blend. They make this work. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Vinchio Vaglio Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

Cool, sapid, salt-licked, rising to meet the ethereal and the first notably mint-savoury Alta Langa noted in this long flight of 69. Tart and full on tang, fleshy, ripe and chewy – sure more than 95 percent of what can be tasted. This will have great appeal for its generosity and acumen. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ravasini Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Mature, oxidative and not perfectly clean. Very natural feel, pas dosé and obvious for a style that was intended to be played out. Does not quite function as we, or at least some might have wished it to. Not convinced Alta Langa can yet do this style consistenly well, at least not this early in its tenure. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Parcellaire 2019

An Extra Brut Bianco with some extra lees aging time, here from a cooler and wetter vintage which is duly noted on the aromatic entry of the wine. Part reduction and part reserve, a tight and grippy wine that shows its strength through structure overarching above all else. A sapidity that its maker surely wanted and a holding back so that it can continue to develop, morph and become something next or at at the very least, other. The palate delivers the full experience and there is some great flesh hanging taut on these solid bones. A fine Alta Langa in this specific style – there can be no arguing this as a fact. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Terre del Barolo Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Vinum Vita Est 2019

Firm iteration of an Extra Brut stylistic that could use some generous aeration so that the aromas can be released. They will and do, though it would seem acting less effusive then some. This goes more at a line that is tight and the end of Alta Langa predicated on intensity and drive. Plenty of spirit here and a finish dotted by fine bitters, of pith and tubers. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2018

Ravasini Alta Langa DOCG Brut Cuvée Leonora 2018

Maturing aromas and so the vintage plus lees aging have come to a place where the wine is moving into secondary stage. Just that hint of fungi, basic like a meadow variety, horse or commercial button, but with no sign of truffle. That will likely happen soon enough so get at this Brut styled Bianco sooner rather than later. Flavour profile is open and strong though again evolution is in full movement forward. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2017

Now heading back a few years with a warm and dry vintage of little worry for a producer and their pas dosé methodology. The nose is quiet and comforting, the perfumes more demure and beautiful than many of similar ilk. This Alta Langa may not scream of its intentions nor will it appeal to a mass audience but it’s character is quietly impressive and its style something worth repeating. Consistently reserved, never demanding and always in complete control. Fine and proper if again not the most gregarious sparkling wine you are likely to encounter. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa DOCG Brut Giulio I 2017

Truly unique nose on this 2017 Brut which seems to put pinot noir first though not convinced its percentage exceeds that of chardonnay. A clean funk or better said classic Langhe earthiness involved and so this seems to be an Alta Langa true to terroir. Plenty of textural chew and citrus preserve but also this cool, gelid and slightly bitter feeling to the fruit. The lees are a major part of this exercise and while they are not 100 percent clean they are the kind that lend and promote great character. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Brut Bianc’d Bianc 2017

Plenty of lees aging and effect here for a 2017 Alta Langa of a warm and extremely dry vintage. Seems to have really settled into its skin with softening aroma and creaming textures that are seamlessly integrated at this advanced stage. If getting to know and understand aged Alta Langa and its potential is on your wish list then this Brut is a very solid place to start that journey. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Cuvée Aurora Blanc de Noirs 2016

Truly toasty and piquant example of pas dosé Alta Langa with a curious cotton candy or slightly caramelized peachy note to begin. Really well aged with clean lees and a fine gem-metal aspect to join the maturing fruit notes. This holds its line and maintains its composure to great length and effect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenute Rade Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2016

No dosage and a very restrained example that whiffs of neutral or virgin concrete, dry and severe. Not a sound bottle perhaps though a second bottle delivers much of the same. The palate is improved with fleshy citrus flavours yet that musty note prevails. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc de Noir 65 Mesi 2016

It seems that Riserva is not just a matter of longer aging time but also a product of greater fruit quality. This 2016 from a powerful and tannic vintage brings the goods in ways few others seem want to deliver. Crisp and in charge, an intensity of parts that begin with quality fruit never letting up or seemingly willing to relent. Carries items with dignity and confidence for a wine or great Alta Langa respect, of its heritage and place. Feels like the clear juice from pinot noir stands above the chardonnay in this cuvée of great purpose and interest. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roccasanta Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2016

Not overly expressive in fact this holds back despite its age and lees aging time as per the Riserva style. The palate is appsoite, mature, of slight caramel and notably soft. This has done its time and the time is now to drink up. Has developed a minor cider note to confer that suggestion. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenute Rade Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2015

From 2015 and a no dosage Bianco iteration of volatility, maturity and a mix of caramelization meets oxidation. A lovely old drop in one respect and because the acidity rises high it’s well preserved and so should be well perceived and received as a sparkling wine of age. Flattens after the initial weak palate display before fading off into the proverbial Alta Langa sunset. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Daffara & Grasso Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 290 mesi 2014

Alta Langa in Riserva form with that extension from extra Lees aging and no dosage for that magical combination. This has truly developed next level character while staying level on its legs and staying a course that will allow even further aging excellence. Labels Bianco though tasted blind it can be nothing but Blanc de Blancs because the chardonnay stands out like a hitchhiker with an extra large thump. A guide to the Alta Langa galaxy right here in the glass, heady, steady and grippy with a real plan, even if the world may not think that this place and these wines have this fully entrenched in mind. The real deal will reveal itself and this 2014 has done just that. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Vigna Gatinera 96 mesi Blanc Noir 2014

Only Alta Langa it seems can effect this intricate mix of long lees aging time and no dosage for such great and curious effect. As here though this 2014 Bianco is showing some oxidative maturity even even while it persists as a reductive example by way of its pinot noir and chardonnay cuvée. Still crunchy and truly flavourful with both yellow citrus and small red berry fruit in combinative affair. Finds its groove late and accumulates more and more pleasantries as you taste through a few sips. You need to hang in with this nine year-old Alta Langa and if you do there will be greater reward. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023. asted December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Cuvée 36 mesi 2014

A Bianco long on its lees and showing maturity though also a stoic nature to begin. Still crunchy and like a mouthful of citrus and stones. This would have been singing with its finest voice just a year ore two ago though still does so dutifully and truthfully today. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut (90 mesi) 2013

A mildly oxidative and advancing example though having strong 10 years in. Plenty of experience, of creamy fruit, almost a custard of the orchards and while pinot noir makes a play it is the Chardonnay making the bigger statement. Shows off heritage and good planning to exact more emotion for what kind of potential Alta Langa holds for wines to age this length of time. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Coppo Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Riserva Piero Coppo 2013

A Riserva of Bianco that reeks at least as much of pinot noir as it does so from chardonnay. At ten years of age it have proven to have lasted and lingered as well as could be expected with the best times presented right here and now. Feels like a wine of age and drinks with nurturing comfort at this stage, like a blanket or a parent. Drink up and savour every last moment. Last tasted blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Riserva Giulio I 100 Mesi 2012

More than 10 years old and still a quietly demure and not overtly philanthropic example of Alta Langa Riserva. Getting as much red fruit pinot noir as citrus chardonnay on the nose though together they combine and accumulate for a very fruity sparkling wine. Also toasty and even just flinty enough to consider the calcari, the argilla and the arenaria in the earth from whence this once emerged and has now arrived. A beautiful ALR after all these years and I for one would relish a pour anytime it might be forthcoming. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero 140 2010

No sugar added at tirage and yet you will not find more natural fruit in an Alta Langa Bianco or Riserva, especially in this style. Magnificently organized and perfumed of all the fruit blossoms and then the ripeness of that fruit as it arrived at fruition. Toasty, even still slightly reductive and almost no signs of true maturity – certainly limited oxidation. The truth is alive and these bubbles prove that Alta Langa ages really, really well. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Cuvée 120 mesi 2010

Nearly 13 years of age and a wine doing well, thank you very much. Many years (upwards of 140 months) on its lees and using every bit of those clean yeasts to conduct a current and fully realize the fruit for dramatic effect. Just a bit toasty and over excited (as it must have always been) to rise above the fruit but acidity is fine, racy and its charge well executed to make this work as well as it should. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Blind tasting Alta Langa (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Rosato

Colombo Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut 2020

Just a wee youthful one, of maximum 24 months on lees for a Rosato (namely Blanc de Noirs) that modernizes Alta Langa with ever increasingly utilized pinot noir. Well short of saignée and just a few hours run off with clean juice that came from pure fruit of a well timed sparkling pick. The clarity puts this in spot on territory for the idiom. Creates a dictionary entry Rosato for the denomination. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ivaldi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut Andrea 2020

Extra Brut with a bit more dosage that foils if not perfectly aligns with the fruit and acidity for what collates as a slightly rustic example. Well and substantial fruit and complimentary savour if just off-putting because the combinations create some mismatching and misappropriated flavours. More than serviceable if not truly representative of potential. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut Cuvée Aurora 2019

A few years of lees aging has done well to set this Extra Brut Rosato up for rusty copper Alta Langa success. More than ample richness, orchard fruit that involves crab apple and then a turn to more savoury elements with low-creeping vines that deliver leaf and red fruit in elastic flavours. Carries with nimble ability, without distraction and only purity. Very well made with the capability to age at least a few if not five-plus years. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Massimo Rivetti Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Quite pale for Alta Langa Rosato and so though a factor of pinot noir and blanc de noirs it is noted how the maceration was quick and oh so gentle. Not as overtly aromatic as some though there is a yeasty autolytic note involved to tell us quite a bit about the style and also the intention. Pay attention to the stage presence and the seriousness with which this intends to capture your palate. Succeeds for the most part though does not hold on as long as some deeper and more impressive examples. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Il Cascinone Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Alasia 2019

Quiet aromas, a bit of citrus tablet dissolve and more dosage noted than many. Simpler, easy and getable ahead of the game. Lacks the complexity and drive of more serious examples in the Brut Rosato category. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ravasini Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Cuvée Leonora Rosé 2019

Cider notes, of terpene and juiced orchard fruit that suggests more than pinot noir but is likely just a matter of how this was pressed. Acetic and volatile more than anything else. Something went wrong in this case. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Rachele Rosè 2019

A funky cheese rind note mixes with a rusty and rustic red fruit style anchored by strawberry then accepted by rhubarb, baking spices and earth. A savoury kind of Brut Rosato that’s not so much a matter of overripe fruit bit more so terroir and then winemaking. An is what it is Alta Langa that succeeds because it is unique. Sweetness comes out at the finish to mix and merge with tonics and bitters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Agricola Brandini Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut 2018

Crisp, earthy and crunchy Rosato, savoury and with some strawberry sweetness across the board. Begins savoury and finishes on a sweeter if also earthier note. An interesting Rosato that will likely morph and change into something of greater interest because the yeasts are clean, the fruit pure and the potential quite good. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Cuvée 36 Mesi Rosé 2018

Rusty, savoury and cheese rind aromatic with plenty of yeasty lees notes that likely need more time to integrate. That said the rusticity can’t be ignored nor denied so keep in mind how parochial and local this will always purport to be. It’s really quite comforting and with some excited energy on the palate their is a true affinity with growers’ Rosé Champagne. That’s a compliment because authenticity and respect for terroir are more than half the battle and reason to appreciate an Alta Langa sparkling wine. Last tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Rosato Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero Rosé 2017

This Rosato may be pas dosé but screams form the glass with a wealth of ripe fruit captured to be put to great use. Richness and energy combine from start to finish, exert upon the palate and continue to rise through every moment of this fine Alta Langa sparkling wine. No let up, time off, sick days, stops or starts. Continuous and righteous. The potential is still great and the faint bitterness on the palate is just so appropriate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Rösa 2017

Good aromatic presence, a nose into Orange Pekoe tea and earth before the leafy red fruit notes become involved. Tight and bracing on the palate with piercing acidity, never acetic nor volatile but very much in charge. An intense example that still needs time to flesh out even if it’s a wine from back in 2017. Not sure it will ever really change but if you like this excitable style than this is the Alta Langa Rosato for you. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Contessa Rosa Rosè 2017

Notable extra fruit substance and also yeasty notes determine the Riserva designation and set this Rosato up for plenty of slow maturing, unfolding and unraveling days ahead. Rusty, earthy, gingered and tonic-botanical notes but also evergreen so quite a variegate composition from pinot noir. Complex tones for sure if just that ever so slight disadvantage as a wine that will act and therefore be an acquired taste. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut L’Istinto 2016

The oldest of the Roasto and the only one defined as Extra Brut in a flight of 13 Alta Langa examples. The most fruit blossom forward on the nose, rich and expressive, sweetness so well incorporated and the fruit comes away so finely crossed between citrus and berries. Really well delineated and defined, of accords struck and alliances formed. This will live a great long iife. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Good to go!

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Apr15

Barbaresco 2021

What is Barbaresco? The answer can’t help but be complex, but the best approach is to look back, to recall some of the finest nebbiolo tasted from the denomination’s villages and communes, of Alba, Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. Memories of unrelenting Barbaresco having acted out with impunity, aromatic exoticism, power, fragrance, precision and balance. Exceptional and unparalleled nebbiolo built upon tannic building blocks, understood, necessary, gratifying and satisfying. Recollection and reminiscence will return to the most human emotions, to the most underestimated of Piedmontese wines. Those that make you think, smile, wink, cry and sigh. They that speak of the vineyard and how properly they are treated. The nebbioli that get under your skin, teach you what you need to know and tell you that everything is alright. Barbaresco as good friends, therapists and if need be, they can be festaioli.

Albeisa presentation in Alba

The finest Barbaresco knows itself like a great human perfectly comfortable in its own skin and it might live to the age of 30 without experiencing one single moment of stress. They are quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, reserved, demure and only wishing to be experienced in states of calm and comfort. Aromas but a whisper and flavours tacitly generous, unspoken while turning up the volume. Low and slow development lingering tannin, untangled, untwisted and liberated. Nebbiolo spoken with the utmost clarity and reminders that Barbareschi can offer some of the greatest nebbiolo values. Think of a vintage and forward 15 years to when the integration of fruit causes the wine to become a victim of happy imbibers. Such is the case for the imagination and projections for two dozen international journalists gathered at the Albeisa Wines offices in Alba for the 28th edition of Nebbiolo Prima. Each possessive of their pwn personal calling to mind of past experiences in order to bring about a focus on the present.

Albeisa – Barbaresco

Barbaresco from Alba are to a nebbiolo very pretty examples, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Most are lovely with mid term aging potential. For the village and commune of Barbaresco 2021 is an airy, dreamy and ethereal vintage with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this style could not exist at a high level of nebbiolo. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. From Neive the nebbioli are village typical of this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol, or at least the equivalent per se. More airy and open quality but also nervy, with real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice. As for Treiso, the wines are richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before these nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. So correct in their aromatic ways, not looking for praise, but worthy of it anyway. Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound.

Alba

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva are young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air, unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy, singular style and distinction, built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. As for the season coming next for Riserva, 2020 was launched by a Spring with quite a bit of rain, followed by a warm summer and then a normal harvest in the last week of September into the first of October for both the nebbiolo of Roero and Barbaresco. When the 2023s come into play they will be the children unscathed with no significant problems noted in the Langhe, especially as it pertains to the perenospera (downy mildew) virus. In fact 2021 was a much more difficult and challenging vintage due to extreme climatic events.

Presenting Albeisa wines in Alba

Roero 2021 showed as well if not better than at any previous Anteprima for the region. Very forward fruit with a distinct vintage nebbiolo feel, in other words true specificity for nebbiolo with Roero as its host. Expressive wines were made of great richness and acids are still working through their repetitions. As per the sandy-mineral-clay soils the chalky tannins work nebbiolo with good pulse and so the potential is, well potentially great. The 2020 vintage is a charming one for Roero nebbiolo, perhaps less extracted and concentrated as compared to some but no less important or structured for good aging potential. In the finer examples fruit quality is there to stand up and be counted alongside structural parts. Well made wines in 2020, with clear ambition to age, which they will do quite well. There is some reduction but this seems to be a trend for Roero Riserva from the vintage.

Marina Marcarino, President Albeisa Wines

Year after year the opportunity to taste so many Nebbiolo and pay visits with producers is made possible by the organization of the Consorzio Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. Langhe Vini are supported and valorized by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani and these tastings support the mission. Much of the Anteprima’s success is facilitated by A-B Comunicazione team of Anna Barbon, Linda Foltran and Cinzia Luxardo. This twenty eighth year of Nebbiolo Prima once again acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. The following are Godello’s Roero and Barbaresco notes from Nebbiolo Prima 2024. There are 111 reviews in total; (11) Roero DOCG 2021, (15) Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, (3) Roero Riserva DOCG 2010, (62) Barbaresco DOCG 2021, (13) Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019, (3) Barbaresco DOCG 2011 and (4) Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009.

If you would like to view the top scoring wines from this report please click here.

Roero 2021

Roero DOCG 2021

Bric Castelvej Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Very forward fruit with a distinct vintage nebbiolo feel, straight away into the wild strawberry mixed with pomegranate way. Langhe and nebbiolo from Roero must be distinct and different than Barbaresco which is precisely what this is. Acids are very fine and tannins very manageable. Not a heavily structured wine, nor does it need to be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero DOCG Bric Volta 2021, Canale

A bit deep in fruit as compared with some yet also reserved, nearly dullish aromatically speaking. Some potency and alcohol blocking the view to perfume. Chewy with a vanilla-caramel fudge quality that detracts from an “expected” Roero style. That is if such a thing is definable but this meets other expectations. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cornarea Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Light and transparent for easy access nebbiolo from Roero, aromatically perfumed if demurely so. Crisp and tart, basic tannins with no real bite and soft spice. Basic and serviceable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Battaglino Angelo di Battaglino Margherita Roero DOCG pQlin 2021, Castellinaldo

True specificity for nebbiolo with Roero as its host, here from the Castagnito cru and clearly respected as such. Mild sausage in swarthy notes that keep the aromas as the transfixed point of optics and olfactory interest. Then things turn over to a palate equally curious, attractive and wild. It’s all here for the interest and the taking. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Marsaglia Roero DOCG Brich d’America 2021, Castellinaldo

Truly tart and high acid nebbiolo from fruit pulled out of the cru called Castellinaldo. Rich and sumptuous though thinning on the palate or rather a wine that turns into this linear scintillant by varietal design. It’s a curious one that’s just a bit fraught with acetic matters. Can see the appeal for those who look for high caste tonality and energy. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ponchione Maurizio Roero DOCG Monfrini 2021, Govone

Cask sample: Very quiet nose from a nebbiolo reticent to open and set forth whatever it wishes to say. Requires major swirl, agitation and imagination. The palate is expressive of great richness and acids are still working through their repetitions. Chalky tannins and good pulse. Plenty off potential here. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Frea Lorenzo e Giovanni Roero DOCG 2021, Montaldo Roero

From the cru called Montaldo Roero and a nebbiolo with a notable and frankly knowable scent of diesel. Curious as to what causes this sort of aroma? Also pencil lead, graphite and cool metal. Clearly a terroir slash mineral example that has been exaggerated by the fermentative decisions. Crunchy wine and hopefully one to flesh out once these austere and drying tannins begin to dissipate. The potential is, well potentially great. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manuele Priolo Roero DOCG Anime Nere 2021, Monteu Roero

Quite acetic, verging on uncompromisingly swarthy and reductive in the most rubbery of ways. Agitation does little to blow it away. Barnyard though it’s not a case of Brettanomyces. Faulted in any case. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero DOCG Bin Fait 2021, Più comuni

Truly fruity aromatics, almost candy floss but confected in any case with strawberry the first to drive imagination and so perhaps we can get some satisfaction. Tannic, chalky and with a fully unctuous quality to speak of a wine that should shed the confiture and settle in before becoming something special. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Azienda Agricola Rosavica Benotti Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

Could be the cru, the winemaking or better still both because the structure in this Roero is at the tops for the range off “Classica” nebbioli. Austere tannins, fine if sweet acids and more than ample fruit prepare this 2021 Priocca for a long life ahead, Something about this MGA that speaks volumes about the potential for Roero. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cordero Gabriele Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

The second of two Priocca cru is entirely apposite to the first, still tannic but here austere and really closed up front. There is some solid fruit hiding beneath and the palate tells a more open story but still the MGA is without a doubt the kind to create age-worthy nebbiolo. This sets a table for Roero to express heritage but with knowledge in pocket because making wine today is a new matter and one to allow wines to open in a year or two and then last for several after that. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tasting Roero and Barbaresco blind at Albeisa Headquarters – Alba

Roero Riserva DOCG 2020

Careglio Pierangelo Roero Riserva DOCG Valmezzana 2020, Baldissero d’Alba

A charming vintage for Roero nebbiolo, perhaps less extracted and concentrated as compared to some but no less important or structured for good aging potential. Here from the area of Baldissero d’Alba with more than ample stuffing to march alongside tannins already beginning to resolve. This Riserva is very close to its peak that should come about before the end of this calendar year. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2020, Canale

Higher toned nebbiolo here for Roero, bright and unencumbered by gravity. Some compaction in the tannin but not the fruit which rises weightless and free. Not a fully together communion but more so a Canale in two parts with wood standing apart as a result. Will continues to meet closer to the middle as it ages but drinking this in the next five to seven years is key because after that the fruit freshness will no longer be hanging around. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Mompissano 2020, Canale

Some funky beats in this Roero, local cheese rind and cured meat skins, a definite porcino feel and all that Canale savoir faire. Smells like the Alba market in late November, replete with dried porcini and fresh tartufi. Complex and parochial, tart, full of tang and a tincture of bitters. A special nebbiolo if not the most modern or unassuming kind. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bric Castelvej Roero Riserva DOCG Panera Alta 2020, Canale

High-toned and quiet acetic on the nose which is a bit off-kilter for Roero as Riserva. Excess wood, overtly stemmy and savoury. Too vivid and the wood is so in our faces without tact. This will need to settle but may never do so, especially because what fruit there is feels so muddled by the wood and startling piques. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto e c. Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Canale

Quite a classic set of Roero nebbiolo aromas and enough substance behind the structure to put this at Riserva level quality. Lots of wood noted as well but as mentioned there is ample concentration from quality fruit to stand up and be counted alongside. Well made wine with clear ambition to age which it will do quite well. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Renesio 2020, Canale

Truly rich nebbiolo in Riserva form for Canale and Roero in a near perfect storm of all parts involved. In fact despite the ambitious wood there is really good and concentrated fruit of high quality to mix and match along. Rich and strong wine, lots of chocolate and potential to age up there with some of the finer Roero. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero Riserva DOCG Carlinöt 2020, Canale

Quite reductive for the trilogy of variety, vintage and place. A rubbery example of nebbiolo, woody 2020 and liquid peppery Roero to Canale. Rich enough, concentrated fruit and sturdy to not only handle but transform those reductive misgivings. Comes away tougher, stronger and equipped to handle the future. In the end the quality and potential are quite great. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Valdinera Roero Riserva DOCG San Carlo 2020, Corneliano d’Alba

Reduction though less than others but this seems to be a trend for Roero Riserva from the 2020 vintage. A real silky glycerol iteration here from Corneliano d’Alba with richness and fulsome qualities. Some bitter herbs and tight at the finish yet otherwise a sound and grippy wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renato Buganza Roero Riserva DOCG Renato Buganza 2020, Guarene

The Guarene nebbiolo is quite aromatically potent for Roero, a boozy feel straight away, a real punch up the olfactory. A swirl of liquor managed by thick glycerol and a heaviness with some Brettanymyces showing up on the palate. A bit shaggy with brittle tannins as a result. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelassa Daniele Roero Riserva DOCG S…….I 2020, Montà

Montà delivers a very pretty and charming example of nebbiolo from Roero with naturally sweet parts from start to finish. Fruit is conjoined to tannin by way of acids that are the catalyst and the ties that bind the wine. This is lovely and graceful, Riserva worthy and willing to please, if just about right away. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2020, Monteu Roero

Reductive and a bit swarthy here, some acetic notions mixed with swirling emotions. A bit buggy, hairspray, vinyl shower curtain action and so faults are faults, no matter the grape, time or place. Not a happy iteration of nebbiolo, 2020 or Monteu Roero I’m afraid. Over the top wood to boot. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Le Coste 2020, S. Stefano Roero

Sone stoic personality here and quire reserved for Roero in Riserva clothing. Thick aromatic swirl, round and round it goes, never stopping and when it will no one knows. As with so many of its ilk the summary is marked by wood that cloaks and sheathes the fruit so that it submits and succumbs. Too much wood and the question is why? Structure and aging but fruit freshness must be there for the beginning to project real success. There is some but it’s covered and hidden. By the time it finds its way out it will mostly be gone. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Demarie Giovanni di Demarie Aldo Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Cask sample: Now for something completely different. Ribena? Yes, that is Ribena, up front and central to the notes in this nebbiolo. Ribena that may dissipate once bottled but will always be part of the fabric. That and an overuse of wood. Vanilla and lavender are omnipresent and the nebbiolo is lost. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore, Vezza d’Alba

Fine aromatic nebbiolo for Roero comes like this and we appreciate the honesty. In Riserva terms the wood is as ambiguous and/or integrated as well as any in the category. It’s there but it works in tandem with quality fruit just concentrated enough to handle and play well in the box. Somewhat simple but very serviceable wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacomo Barbero Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Well managed tannin and wood have set this Roero up for good success. A balanced nebbiolo for Vezza d’Alba, of middle road taken parts, concentrated but not excessively so and oak that works the same line. Good bones but again, nothing large, ambitious or serious about it. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carciofi – La Piola, Alba

Roero Riserva DOCG 2010

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Trinità 2010, Canale

Fine shape and steading at 13-plus years of age for nebbiolo from Roero, quietly and comfortably secondary without worry from advancing into tertiary anytime soon. A Christmas cake or plum pudding kind of state, home cooking and acidity very much in tact. Easement with nebbiolo of yesteryear to act as spokeswine for why Roero should be discussed today in its own light. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2010, Più comuni

A Più comuni nebbiolo that has lost its aromatics but neither its sheen nor lustre after 13+ years post vintage. Now only acid relatable smells, a varnish or a spray and while the palate is slightly more expressive it’s still about all concepts tart. No fruit to speak of, nor complexities truly secondary. Tasted January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2010, Vezza d’Alba

More maturity for sure on the aromas though they are exotically charged and emotionally inviting. Tones are set to high and surely always were for nebbiolo that would have been dominated by red citrus in its primary fruit stages. Now the wood is noticed, melted and pooled in a macerated mess of evolution and reeking of varnishes. The perfumes are sweet, the flavours sour but like chewy confections, gum arabic “pate de jujubes” so-to-speak. Like dessert nebbiolo with just a gram or two of residual sugar. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Alba

Barbaresco DOCG 2021

Alba

Alessandro Rivetto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Alba

Barrel sample: Somewhat mature and already advanced for a wine not yet bottled or supposed to be ready. Dried fruit notes, like leathery plum and persimmon, juicy enough yet knowably moving forward with haste. Quite the level of tang though acidity is mild and this will clearly need to be consumed in the near term. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria Di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2021, Alba

Very pretty example of nebbiolo from Alba as Barbaresco, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Crisp and also a 2021 you can sink your teeth into, with fine acidity and equally representative tannin. A truly proper example of Barbaresco for mid-plus aging. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Sanadaive 2021, Alba

Quite the pretty aromatics and a simple palate with a bit of weakness or hollowness in the middle parts. Tannins dry out, not brittle mind you but they don’t add to the equation. A Barbaresco by subtraction. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Rizzi 2021, Alba

Cask sample: This first look at the Barbaresco cru and while this both expresses for upfront fruit and also delivers a structured message, it’s not quite as stiff and vertical as some of its nebbiolo counterparts. That red fruit design might come from more organic or generous terroir within the cru or the winemaking might pull the fruit quicker and keep the tannins at bay. Either way it’s a lovely example of Barbaresco with mid term aging potential. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Alba and Barbaresco

Barbaresco

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2021, Barbaresco

An airy, dreamy and ethereal quality in presentation with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this will not exists at a high level of Barbaresco. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. Wait three years to get some answers. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Reduction spoken though volatile compounds, liquid peppery and a vague moment’s notice of Brettanomyces. Nothing egregious but definitely an accent of style. Lots of substance here, weight and also flesh, not to mention drying tannins. The austerity is positive and while the volatility will also have its say this traditional and characterful Barbaresco will please the buyer who looks for those mired and paying homage to traditional ways. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Thin and unassuming aromas followed by similar nondescript palate notions. A touch jammy but also green and weedy. Nothing egregious but nor is this offering up anything special, especially by Barbaresco standards. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Really knowable nebbiolo nose from the Barbaresco cru, richly defined and of a purity of varietal fruit. Fulsome and substantial of floral meeting mineral openings before transferring seamlessly to flavours equally luxe and supported by essential structure. This is years away from its finale, set upon a course across seas of low, slow and incremental development before it comes to rest on a shore where the world of the Langhe is properly revealed. This my be a sample but it is clearly a wine to drink over a minimum 15 years of time. Wow. Stupendo. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Of the light, taut and demure kind, a nebbiolo held back though one that will never become a big and fleshy affair. Some swarthy chew to the palate which feels quite disparate to the aromatics but as a sample it is given the benefit of the doubt to settle down and in. Some raw dough as well which indicates some incongruence in fermentative temperatures in conjunction with what this Barbaresco fruit requested and required. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Montaribaldi 2021, Barbaresco

From the Barbaresco cru and a heady if also impressively floral set of aromas emanating from the glass. Also the first of the 2021s to deliver blood orange and so suddenly thoughts turn to considering that fruit aroma as a hallmark of the vintage, at least for the MGA of Barbaresco. There is some taut behaviour and grip to the mouthfeel so be wary of drinking this anytime soon because it may grab your palate and suck the energy away. Give two years to allow a settling and better integration before this ’21 can initiate the pique to curiosity and potential. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

The nose may be closed on this nebbiolo but it just feels like much is hidden in the hallways, shadows and chiaroscuro of the vintage. A wealth of flesh and likely vertically upright skeletal bones that put this hearty example from Barbaresco at the pinnacle for cru and vintage. Truth in palate confirms suspicion and expectation driven by facts and figures from a sunbeam of a wine built on artistic power and creative science. This will win hearts, minds and palate wherever it may be poured. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Some formaggi straight away with good red fruit though less rustic than what that washed rind note would have first seemed to dictate. Solid palate, fleshy and juxtaposed against a drying, genuinely austere backdrop of tannins. This is somewhat old school but also expressive of major personality. Give it two years and enjoy the slow change over the coming eight. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Morassino 2021, Barbaresco

Acetic, jumpy, unsettled, very acid driven. Also another balsamic example from vintage where that is the exception to the rule. High toned in just about every respect yet there is a juiciness to the fruit that wells and pools on the palate. Dries out severely at the finish to confirm earlier suspicions and also begs for time. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Yet another quiet aromatic entry for a nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA, unsurprising and quite typical for the vintage. Some roses as dried as they are fresh (or a mix of the two) and rosy red fruit in the currant-pomegranate style. Crisp and crunchy, with dried herbs, mountain brush and tea. Well made, older-schooled, austere and traditionally very correct. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Rattalino Massimo Barbaresco DOCG Quarantadue42 2021, Barbaresco

Sometimes nebbiolo presents as a swarthy, almost Amaro-inflected liqueur and this would be said example of that style. Luxe both aromatically and also in terms of flavours yet boozy, a tonic of fruits and bitters, stirred, swirled, viscous and unctuous. A bit over the top in this regard and pasty, with a raw potato finish. Given two years it will integrate better but will fall off a cliff another year after that. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Quiet, quite reserved and immovable nebbiolo, best left to fight another day. Somewhat acetic, of two-toned balsamic notes and it has already become apparent that this is not in fact a balsamic vintage. Tart yet full on the palate and a Barbaresco that reminds of 2017, with dried fruit, dusty tannins and high acid. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Pora 2021, Barbaresco

Wildly fragrant nebbiolo, knowable and volumetric, confidence exuded and table set for what’s to come. Fruits of many ilk and austere tannins with everything in compliment, though far from integrated. Great grip, potency and structure in what is becoming a hallmark of the vintage: Power without alcoholic presence. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco Rabaja DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Just as a comment on the last wine was made about the vintage not being one of alcoholic notability along comes an example that is just that. Then again the fruit and the overt structure seem quite capable of handling the tension and the pressure. Clearly serious nebbiolo here from Barbaresco though also one exuding confidence, high libido and no shame. The first to truly show its casks with ambition and this will live for a decade and potentially two or more. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Rabaja-Bas 2021, Barbaresco

More reserve, more waiting, more time needed to see where a 2021 nebbiolo will travel. Still this is a light and tart example with very drying tannins and not quite enough fruit stuffing to see it conjure great expectations. Fine enough while acids are equally intense to put this in near if not quite top exemplary status. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Rio Sordo 2021, Barbaresco

Fine pulse and weight to the nose of this nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA. Notable and knowable red fruit that comes in waves before crashing at the palate’s shore. But just as waves will do they keep coming in syncopated rhythm and this 2021 is neither calm nor stormy but something in the middle, therefore consistent and imitable. Really good weight, measure and balance overall. Really quite fine and age-worthy. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2021, Barbaresco

Reticent and somewhat thinning if also dishy aromatics. They do improve and flesh out with air so be sure to take a moment and wait with this nebbiolo because it will realize more potential then first thought. Still the palate is simple and while effective it does not grab or cause excitement. It’s dullish and low down. Well enough and good for the short term. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Ronchi 2021, Barbaresco

Quite taut, tart and tight nebbiolo with opening grip and an intensity both on the nose and equally so upon the palate. Crunchy and verdant, some freshness but also dried qualities, both floral and herbal. Older schooled, for tradition and heritage, well made, preserved and determined. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Barbaresco and Neive

Neive

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

More airy and open quality here but also nervy for nebbiolo, of always specific Barbaresco ways. A glycerin feel to the palate and real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice and then forming texture. Really high quality here, some grip to the tannin but not necessarily what one might think of as tension. An elastic sensation, stretching and returning back in balance. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani DOCG 2021, Neive

So typical of Neive Barbaresco is this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol or at least the equivalent per se. This particular nebbiolo is expressive of something marine in origin, almost oyster shell which could indicate terroir or something blowing in from afar. Either way it’s both curious and piquing for cerebral interest. A wine of substance and complexity, sweet acidity and drying tannin. Kind of classic with a twist, when you think about it. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Stoic, austere, unrelenting nebbiolo. Holding firm on the aromatic front, keeping still, a target hard to define, pinpoint or access. Fruit in the shadows but its there and we trust that when it emerges the wine will sing in the way that nebbiolo is meant to sing. There are parts to this wine with meaning and again, when things come together the balance will be tight, because we can already intuit such a feeling. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Light on its feet, simple and selectively structured nebbiolo. Balanced, no out of sort parts or sensations not in line with the others. Today seemingly basic and unexceptional if quite possibly misunderstood in youth – but surely correct for Barbaresco, Basarin and nebbiolo. May come out and awy in a few years and offer new surprises. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

The first Barbaresco 2021 of this deep red hue and clearly something extra or pressed sits in this glass. The perfume confirms the suspicion because no other example in a sea of 60 samples appears and is expressed this way. Intensely perfumed, floral to an nth degree and what follows is rich, extremely tart and powerful. The ambition and the wood here are far greater than most and it works, for the most part, but the drying finish tells us that the impression will be shorter lived. The next two years are needed for settling and the following three (or possibly four) will be its most impressive. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

A solid, richly defined and properly structured nebbiolo with Barbaresco flesh and bones. Nothing overly impressive or excitement but solid, serviceable and exemplary to the degree of requiem or necessity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG Canova 2021, Neive

Glycerol, syrupy nebbiolo with a mildly stewed character. Both aromas and palate are in synch with this style and tannins are present if drying and out of that rhythm. Not a lot of equanimity or joy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2021, Neive

One of the darker, more unctuous and well established fruit cumulate nebbiolo from Neive and that is in fact a trait of certain examples from that village and MGA. Much to go on, fruit pectin and terroir so resourceful to bring personality and also character to this nearly formidable wine. Not so much in a structured way because this shows some maturity and hasty development but it’s tasty and useful for the near term. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Giuseppe di Negro Piergiorgio Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Truly proper Neive entry in perfume of red fruits and flowers so succinctly, purely and precisely defined. No let down in flavours with rich, luxe and some developed notes but the tannins and also acids are inlined to see this carry forward for a proper and serviceable amount of time. Well made, presentable and expressive of the place. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Reductive in a rubber and liquid peppery way to put this in reserve style for nebbiolo from Neive. The potential just has to be great when you consider the substance that lurks beneath the shell with nary a thought of potential negation. Rich, powerful and structured for long aging to speak for Barbaresco that as modern as it will eventually become inviting. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bera di Bera Valter Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Holding firm form and staying tight as the cask sample it should be and one a bit hard to assess at this early stage. Rich of fruit and sweet acids with more than ample to substantial weight in reserve. Quite fine and of a stature that fills the requiem of Barbaresco desire if of a very modern design. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sarìa di Abbruzzo Francesco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Yet another succinct and knowable example of Neive nebbiolo with its glycerol and sweet acids sired into fruit for impressive elixir stature. Much to admire about the nose with its red fruit and florals though there is a hint of Ribena or perhaps strawberry cordial. It’s a lovely swirl, a bit more showy than graceful but worthy of an impression made nonetheless. There are many who will see the flavour and the success in this wine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Neive

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Palazzina 2021, Neive

Far from showy, on the lighter, taut and closed side of nebbiolo but the palate will almost certainly tell a different story. That it does with more unction and varietal liqueur, silk and liquid chalky tannin in good support. Some dried fruit there so not a Barbaresco to lay down for a decade and likely quite a bit less than that. The wood here leads to seeing a truffled future arriving before too long. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2021, Neive

Well established, conditioned and positioned Barbaresco from and for Neive. Got the unction and the glycerol but aromatically speaking there is nothing gratuitous about the waves. They arrive and repeat in syncopated rhythm, as does the fruit and acid upon the palate. There are interchangeable moments of fine bitters and tannic pushes that support and extend this nebbiolo for length that lingers and repeats in better, finer and more impressive ways than most. A long term Barbaresco amongst the best. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Barbaresco DOCG Collina Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Dark of hue, richness of colour, pressed for success. Richness and luxe behaviour, all up front on display, a peacock strutting, its feathers for all to see. Low acids and drying tannins for not the best structural combination. Quick exit here. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Light, swarthy, older schooled, slightly Brettanomyces involved. Not the most substantial or expressive nebbiolo and while this could be looked upon as a late bloomer it does not seem like enough substance is hiding in the shadows. Basic wine at the end of the glass. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2021, Neive

Exotic spicing to nebbiolo may not typically define Neive yet here we are with such an animal in the village’s pot. Some swarthy aromas as well, plenty of wood in every respect and a wine that could use some time to at least try and settle down. Leathery skin, tannins a bit hard and brittle, weight quite well gauged and there is some fashion in this wine. Just a bit all over map if you get the drift. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

Cask sample: For Walter Fissore 2021 is a much more muscular vintage than either 2019 and 2020, a beautiful if hot vintage though normal season in terms of water. A normal season but today that means powerful wines. Harvested in Neive late September and will go to bottle in February, “at the time of the full moon, not because of biodynamics but because of tradition.” Incredible tannins here, very broad, like shoulders and this is what should be from ’21 Barbaresco, along with freshness and top ranking acidity. Grabs a hold of the palate and refuses to let go. We like that too. Potential is great. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted January 2024

La Libera – Alba

Più comuni

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Teorema 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: Big cask sample, as rich and developed of 2021 fruit as any but also those that are already in bottle. It’s all there for the taking and there is already quite a bit of wood resolution on this nebbiolo so can’t really see any reason why it’s not already bottled. Time to get on it! Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Mon Sertù 2021, Più comuni

Just lovely perfume, purity of aromatic fruit, red berries incarnate and a nebbiolo that melts into the olfactory. Suave, silken and yet acids but also tannin show some grip, but never their teeth. A pretty swirl of all parts, variegated while together and though not a Barbaresco for the ages it’s surely one that well represents the category. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Morra Gabriele Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Fine, tight and exemplary which is the way a Barbaresco of Più comuni should attract and deliver the nebbiolo message. Very correct, expressly serviceable, of solid weight, mild volatility, bright acidity and a good example of the fine 2021 vintage. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: A gentle swarthiness and just that ever so slightly held back, tight and reserved set of qualities confirms the cask sample idea behind the unreleased notion of this wine. It’s not quite ready and yet not so far away so when it hits the bottle it will begin its pleasing phase within a year or so after that. Still in the teasing, pre-tasting way of nebbiolo but the time is approaching. Some Brettanomyces here, nothing urgent mind you but it does dry the finish a bit more than the wine would otherwise likely wish to do. Drink 2025–2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco – Treiso

Treiso

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Ausario 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: A true cask sample from Treiso that might be considered treason were the desire to taste it be right now. Richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before this nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. Those tannins are demanding and the tension is palpable, only increased because the full and substantial flesh of this wine is wanting to be regulated. This will become something impressive indeed. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Casot 2021, Treiso

Sometimes typical can be a less than flattering tern but in this case it is meant to both compliment and admire a Barbaresco from Treiso that start off right. So correct in its aromatic ways, not looking for praise but worthy of it anyway. A rich swirl of fruit, floral and mineral, all parts being equal to set this up for a nebbiolo of great desire. More than solid in every respect, acids so sweet and fulsome, tannins present yet never austere. A really pretty Barbaresco, not for long aging but surely for up to five-plus really good drinking years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Giacone 2021, Treiso

Treiso Barbaresco of a different sort, aromatic with herbal notes, some of them dried. Getting rosemary, fennel seed, pencil lead and chalk. More richness and liquidity on the palate that makes for a fine conversion and change of pace. A wine of two parts but each are interesting and inviting in their separate ways. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG Giacosa 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Heavy perfume, rich and unctuous, as is the palate that follows. This is a nebbiolo of mouthfeel, sumptuous and full, substantial and welling with that glycerol feel. Not typically Treiso per se but as a cask sample this could very well change in a year or two. The structure here is more than solid. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2021, Treiso

Very forward for Barbaresco and over the years this seems to be an increasing trend for Treiso. Warmer locations, sunspot and sun-drenching vineyards, major fruit accumulation and lesser if also sweeter tannins in result. In this sense the 2021 here is a perfect example of vintage and place so the conclusion is drink Treiso sooner than most other commune/village examples because (as a rule) they are meant to deliver early in just this way. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2021, Treiso

Once again Treiso gives and gives early, of easy to love and get with fruit, all red berries and stone type, tannins present yet unobtrusive. There is a bit more demand in the ones provided this nebbiolo but still it fits the Treiso mold in Barbaresco vernacular. Lovely drop, easy, correct and fashionably modern. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: More crisp and crunchy nebbiolo, owing to the not yet bottled cask sample yet still Treiso and verifiably so. The wealthy fruit so naturally sweet with acids very much on a continuance of that line before tannins do nothing to waver or deviate from the party. A sample but one so close to reading itself for drinking. Get this to bottle so it can be enjoyed. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG Giacone Lorens 2021, Treiso

Less open and immediately gratifying for Treiso Barbaresco yet still an example expressive of some generosity because well, Tresio. All the parts are bigger and yet complimentary in this 2021. The fruit is full, the acids substantial and the tannins a bit more magnanimous than the average village iteration. Flesh and bones heightened, extended and ultimately impressive. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ Del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Autinbej 2021, Treiso

Brighter and back to the Treiso normal or average from this 2021. That said the wood is a bit heavier and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is in full effect. Makes for some artificial feels but still the village is at the heart of the matter. It just can’t help but be. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Munfrin di Flori Michele Barbaresco DOCG Flori 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready for prime time cask sample because first off its Treiso and secondly the aromas are more than open. A gregarious nebbiolo for a sample and one to invite, entice and also draw the senses forward. Not to mention a level of maturity of all three parts of the wine; fruit, acids and tannin. There are all good to go, save for just a moment’s austerity. Will be ready to drink less than a year from now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bosio Family Estates Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2021, Treiso

More than just a gentle swarthiness marks this 2021’s entry and our senses become acutely and quickly aware of what’s to come. That would be a Treiso Barbaresco of overt personality juxtaposed against the drying of austere tannins. A bit of a disparate situation and challenging game being played. A prime example of a seriously structured nebbiolo that needs time. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barbaresco Pajorè DOCG 2021, Treiso

Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound. Good fruit substance though more red lightning and scintillant succulence than your average Treiso iteration. Shows some guts and braun, tension and potential for eventual glory. A big wine though also one so far away from the truest expression it will deliver. Dries out quite a bit at the finish so it feels like tension and lessening fruit will define its descending trajectory. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2021, Treiso

A rich and somewhat intense example of nebbiolo with the Treiso grace but exaggeratedly so. The fruit is pure village iterated but the structure is grippier and stronger than your average nebbiolo from there. Chewy one this Treiso, one you can really sink your teeth into its leathery hide. Quite substantial and the potential for aging is surely long. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeirano 2021, Treiso

Back to basics with a light, fruit forward and amenable Tresio nebbiolo. On the left or easy side of the Barbaresco spectrum with tart acids and yet sneaky tannins. This is surely the pomegranate molasses style, textural with its sweet red fruit accented by even sweeter spice. Feel the wood here but it is already beginning to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready despite being a cask sample but stay calm and focused because there are some shadowy tannins waiting in the wings. A fineness of nebbiolo coupled with an ease of Treiso style puts this Barbaresco is fine steading and well balanced behaviour. A cheese rind note and also some sweet if musky charcuterie adds complexity if also curiosity. Very well styled, presented and set up for a good long life ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Crisp, crunchy and drying nebbiolo here from Treiso, not perfectly typical, surely austere and in the end an old-school example. Noticeable wood and more dryness from the tannins that are provided. Time required and heeded will see to a much more open and forthcoming nebbiolo. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva 2019

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rizzi 2019, Alba

Cask sample: A cask sample but a maturing, dare it be said oxidative one. This is precisely the reason that cask sample assessments can be ill-fated and or deceiving. Not much to to go on here I’m afraid. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Camp Gros 2019, Barbaresco

A high-toned, airy and scintillant example of nebbiolo, especially as a Riserva from the 2019 vintage. Shows how place truly matters above all else, or rather it must, no matter the time or intent. Here the truth that is Barbaresco is spoken loud and clear. Present, accounted for and right up there in the stratosphere. Not the most structured vintage but surely or nearly ready for prime time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ronchi Riserva 2019, Barbaresco

Yet another young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air example of Barbaresco unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy here for nebbiolo from the eponymous village equipped with more substantial fruit than many. A classic iteration so place specific with tannic austerity that works well alongside and in compliment to the uncluttered and spacious fullness of the wine. Ahead of the pack so choose wisely because “you pay for this, but they give you that.” This Ronchi is special, will live a very long time, long after many have lost their lustre, faded away, into the black. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2019, Neive

Some issues here, a flaw that is distracting, acetone namely and it kills the fruit. Problematic to be sure. Two bottles, each the same. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin Vigna Gianmate’ 2019, Neive

Once again a 2019 of distinct style and distinction that speaks in both a clear Neive village vernacular but also for the vintage. This is because both the succulence and also high tonality are set to high. Fine wine here, not overly fulsome or structured but somewhere comfortably in between. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2019, Neive

Lovely nebbiolo built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. A beautiful Barbareso from Neive that has already resolved quite dutifully and is just about ready to drink with philanthropy in the proverbial window. Steady and graceful, a very charming wine that everyone needs to know. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Roberto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Currà 2019, Neive

Fine Barbaresco, fruit forward and quite full, darker than many, including a great number from the 2019 vintage. Perhaps the kind of nebbiolo that really delivers a Riserva message if done so with more wood than others and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is a bit extra. Fine beginning with less enthusiasm felt at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Ugo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Gallina 2019, Neive

High tones and warm ones as well from a Barbaresco that feels boozier and bigger then many. That said the bones are big and strong, the flesh filling in the holes and everything moving in synch, incrementally forward and in a proper developing direction. An impressive Neive nebbiolo and one to gain traction as it ages. Will impress Barolo lovers and they whop seek bigger. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco Riserva DOCG ‘Il Pilone’ 2019, Neive

Warm and liquid peppery aromatics, big fruit and also wood by design. The barrel holds a bigger say than in many Barbaresco and so the ambition here is clear, present and real. No danger but more time is needed to make things come into place and view. This will surely lead to a truffled and porcini filed future. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Campo Quadro 2019, Neive

Tang in flashes, spurts and fits from a nebbiolo that really hits the high notes. This from Neive is recognizable if at the highest of that village’s heights. So much acidity and so little time! Fortunately plenty of fruit to back it up but style is style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ciabot 2019, Neive

Many of the Barbaresco Riserva for 2019 are either too young or to vivid to appreciate at this stage but this from Neive is just about right there. Really substantial fruit with that ropey liquorice feel, great red fleshiness and all the right kinds of supporting citrus. No lack for barrel or structure but this hits every note, ticks all boxes, dots the I’s and crosses its T’s. A fully formed, plausible and impressive Barbaresco in every regard. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Casmar 2019, Treiso

Yet another nebbiolo set to high, fruit and formaggi, cured meat and musky scents. Crazy acidity and drying tannins, wood spice and further tannic pressure in that way. All in Barbaresco with Treiso curiosity and charm in spite of how much happens to be going on. Will live a good decade or more, and beyond. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Cichin 2019, Treiso

As rises Treiso, so goes Treiso rising. A high tonality mixed with grace and charm like no other village for nebbiolo that is Barbaresco but here the vivid quality puts nature far ahead of nurture. That and generous wood with its supporting spices and sweet accents. Another fine Riserva for the vintage and one to age for a decade or more. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2011

Barbaresco DOCG 2011

Socré Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2011, Barbaresco

Perfectly fine, metered, reasonable, seasoned and measured older Barbaresco, distinctly nebbiolo and recent history tells that the Roncaglie cru will resolve this way. That would be with alcohol warmth intact, a warm vintage feeling of spices and seasoning, a gastronomy of varietal and place that always ends up this way. Why? It may answer “I don’t know, I guess the wind just pushed me this way.” Somewhere down the crazy (Tanaro) River. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Punset Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2011, Neive

Quite mature, quietly refined, confidently advanced and settled nebbiolo as Barbaresco from Neive’s important cru. Basarin was important then as it is now, a place where the long hill is exposed to the south by southeast and receives as much warmth as any in the appellation. That said Punset caught acidity at peak and the wine’s ability for preservation is admirable to exceptional. Keeps fruit alive even while leathery and drying notes gather momentum. There is great pleasure in sipping this 2011 (incidentally not qualified as Riserva) today. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2011, Treiso

No 2011 Barbaresco could be darker of hue or fresher of fruit than this Vallegrande cru by Grasso out of Treiso commune. That said it has been poured from magnum and once again we are wine-splained just how much of a difference longevity is affected by large format bottles. Sure the perfumes are showing maturity but time has been kind because of the receptacle size. A massively woody nebbiolo and so the aromas and flavours are all pooling with soy, varnish, chocolate and plum pudding spicing. This is very drinkable now but will soon begin to tip in a direction which will have little or nothing to do wth fruit. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva 2009

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Barbaresco

Now coming into Riserva from Barbaresco in its 15th season post vintage and who can forget the beauty of the 9s, from those that came before and also that which followed. This includes 2009, a season “made by God” as one or more producers were want to say. Of fruit so pure and free that time has been kind to preserve. Though quite sharp and tart at this stage it is with thanks to great acidity that this can show so fine and shine this bright as it does. A top echelon food wine for an older vintage that reeks, tastes and acts as only nebbiolo can be. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2009, Neive

Badly oxidized and fallen off the cliff. Hopefully there are better bottles of ’09 out there. Tasted January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2009, Neive

Quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, a reserved and demure Barbaresco that only wishes calm and comfort. While aromas are a whisper and flavours are tacitly generous it is the unspoken in this Basarin that turns up the volume. Hard to find better in low and slow development with lingering tannin than what this 2009 by Adriano Marco e Vittorio has accomplished. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Neive

Fine aging, proper advancement, pretty much expectation met for a 14-15 year-old Barbaresco as Riserva. That said this would have been and very much still is a wine of much barrel, now all about resins and splinters with fruit faded well to black. Curious as an older wine though past the point of joy. Tasted January 2024

Good to go!

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Barbaresco 2021

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WineAlign

Roero DOCG Previews and Retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2016, 2007 and Riserva 2006

Aug4

Across the Tanaro River to Roero

Nebbiolo, arbiter of Piedmontese taste, far from existing in a vacuum or holed up in a one horse town. Nebbiolo’s web casts complex, wide, untethered, unconfined and spread out across a connected set of earthly Albeisa vineyard constellations. The varietal lands umbrellaed and managed in trust to a multi-tasking Consorzio belong to a greater set of regions occupied by Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Dogliani and Roero. To follow Piemonte’s nebbiolo simply map out the wine route “di Langa e Roero,” to trace out hundreds of cru sites in dozens of communes within a territory that includes hot spots defined as Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC and Roero DOCG. For the latter orient one’s self at the village of Canale and radiate outwards to take in the world that encapsulates nebbiolo grown in zones to produce a unique set of wines. The nebbiolo from vineyards in Roero are special and they are beholden to their makers.

Albeisa President Marina Marcarino introduces Roero Consorzio President Francesco Monchiero

La Bottiglia Albeisa

All the nebbiolo rest in one bottle shape, the “Albeisa bottle” and rest assured all glass etched “Albeisa” contains nebbiolo grown only in these Langhe and Roero lands. It was Renato Ratti who first suggested the project seek this defining characteristic, way back in 1973. Shape, location, provenance, tradition and excellence. Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Albeisa. Recognizable for all these aforementioned reasons and a parochial prejudice in the collective attention to detail.

Roero is an area in Cuneo Province of Regione Piemonte and on the left bank of the Tanaro River, between the plain of Carmagnola and the low hills of Astigiano. Roero’s geographical parameters and topographical stretching northwards from Alba towards Torino are protected within an invisibly drawn membrane or fence enveloping a set of municipalities/villages/communes that mark its outskirts, from the southwest moving clockwise; Pocapaglia, Sommariva Perno, Baldissero d’Alba, Montaldo Roero, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Montà d’Alba, Canale, Priocca, Govone, Castellinaldo, Magliano Alfieri, Castagnito, Guarene, Vezza d’Alba, Piobesi d’Alba, Corneliano d’Alba, Monticello d’Alba and Santa Vittorio d’Alba. These 19 administrative entities then beget 175 recognized cru for raising Roero nebbiolo.

Dressed to prune ~ Lessons in Alba with the maestro, Dottore Edoardo Monticelli ~ @albeisawines #nebbioloprima2020 #guyot #nebbiolo #barbera

What’s going on, under the ground?

From a geological point of view it is quite a young land, despite resting on a very ancient crystalline base. Up until 130 million years ago it was part of the bottom of an inland sea, called the Golfo Padano. Its terrain was formed by the sedimentation of debris of various lithological origins transported by marine currents that eroded the surrounding mountains, layering them through various stages of drying up and immersion. Roero remained a shallow gulf until the Pliocene, as shown by the sandy sediments and marine clays. The emergence and formation of the Roero hills took place two to three million years ago. This drift also brought various types of soil to the surface: the deeper layers shifted uphill, whereas those more recent remained at the bottom of the valley.

After the final surfacing the soil was covered once again by sediments of alluvial and wind origin. In that period Langhe and Roero formed a single plateau with the Tanaro and the Stura in the direction Bra – Carmagnola. The great friability of this marine-origin soil led to a progressive erosion. This shift occurred between 220.000 and 150.000 years ago along the path of the Tanaro in the direction Alba – Asti, separating Langhe and Roero. The erosion of the river had a significant effect on the sandy soil of Roero, creating the Rocche, craggy mountain peaks that mark the watershed between the old and new Tanaro valley. They cut the territory from south-west to north-east, from Pocapaglia to Montà, dividing the continental gravel and fluvial clay soils from those of marine origin, providing ideal vine-growing conditions.

The formation of Roero’s geological composition sheds light on why it evolved into an important territory for nebbiolo and in particular arneis but the Consorzio’s current President Francesco Monchiero reminds us that it is quite difficult in terms of menzioni geografica, at least with respect to labelling, much more so than the geographical mentions for Barolo and Barbaresco. This complicated and complex issue is attributed to the area’s many hills and tributaries, varied soils and geological compositions. The nebbiolo from Roero is so closely related to its sabbia, sandy soils that transfer and translate in the perfume, “as violet and a certain elegance.”

At the Roero Producers’ Consortium on March 4th, 2014 a decree was published in the Official Gazette “with the objective to perform the functions of protection, advancement, promotion, consumer information and general care of the interests related to the “Roero” DOCG.” In Alba on January 21st, 2020 Monchiero makes mention of 1797, the year to which the first inventories and notebooks of the Roero are found in the historic cellars of Roero di Vezza and Guareno, speaking of “Brente di Arneis, Vigna Costa in Castagnito and “Vermout made with Arneis”. Then into the 1800s traces of Arneis are found in the writings of Gallesio, who lists it among the most typical varieties of Roero and later the Rovasenda confirm its liaison with the city of Corneliano d’Alba. Finally, the 1879 bulletins indicate that 40 per cent of the Monteu Roero vineyards are dedicated to Arneis. Today there are more than 300 consortium members made up of producers and growers, and more than 1,000 hectares of Roero Denominazione (Designation) vineyards, with a total of about 6 million bottles produced, of which more than 60% are exported. Arneis and nebbiolo are the two base grapes of the DOCG: native grapes, typical of this territory, cultivated for centuries and interpreted with great care by the Roero producers.

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

The language of Roero

The dynamic and symbiotic relationship between a Roero winegrower to vine, winemaker to wine and nebbiolo as the conduit is actually a transference of information from one set of species to another. That is because the world, as per the words of authors we read and producers we cherish, is made of language. The links and associations are centuries old and through time it is the sampling of flavours, the charting of ripples and the passing of generational torches that ensures a ceaseless linking of knowledge. Case in point the house of Azienda Agricola Malabaila Di Canale.

The @malabaila.wines from Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila. Pas Dosé Metodo Classico seven years on lees, Roero Arneis, Favorita, Roero Nebbiolo, Barbera d”Alba and Birbét. 658 years in. Their time begins now.

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila is at the helm of Canale’s most historic estate brought into modern eminence by her father before he passed away in 2010. Though Langhe Rosato, Pas Dosè Método Classico Vino Spumante, Mosta d’Uva Parzialmente Fermentato, Dessert Brachetto, Langhe Favorita, Roero Arneis, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba Cru and Nebbiolo d’Alba are all purposefully and successfully produced, it is the nebbiolo from estate crus that tell a most profound Malabaila story. Then there is the Malabaila connection to Austrian Esterhazy royalty but that is for another story and another time. This old vines Castelletto brings Canale into prominent nebbiolo focus to ride along with the greats of Barbaresco.

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2015

From Canale vines 50 years old and the most historical vineyard for Malabaila, as documents show. Riserva here means two years in two, three and four year-old barrels. Yet another silky Roero and example of nebbiolo that could not have been born anywhere else. The “little castle” is a charming nebbiolo, fine of all its constructive parts with an ease of sensuality that just shows how confident, casual and natural life as it is just happens to be. Castelletto knows what it is. Drink 2020-2028. Tasted January 2020

The chef, the plates and the art ~ @ventuno.1 in Alba

The Roero experience is one that requires so much further investigation so here’s to hoping and planning with great intention to make a return for that very purpose. In the meantime here are 38 reviews in total covering the January of 2020 Nebbiolo Prima tastings for Roero DOCG Previews and Retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2016, 2007 and Riserva 2006.

Roero DOCG 2017

***** Battaglino Fabrizio Roero 2017

The alcohol is felt and noted with syrupy fruit and a glycerin that comes straight off the aromatic top. Here a big Vezza d’Alba nebbiolo with some Bretty volatility and true blue natural feel. Structured with grippy tannins and all of the above combine to impress even while you wonder if some will find it a bit over the top. It may be found to be heavy but there is no doubting the acumen and the potential. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted January 2020

Bric Castelvej Roero DOCG 2017

Slight volatility, thin and also some oxidative notes. Like cool climate pinot noir in Canale without much substance or structure. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

***** Careglio Roero DOCG 2017

Demure, elegance, cherry and simplicity from Baldissero d’Alba. Light and feathery, quiet and pretty. A fine, slight chalky grain to the tannic structure. Really fine drinkability. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Val Del Prete Roero DOCG 2017

The twain is accessed in a Priocca Roero nebbiolo neither light nor heavy, neither bright nor mired in darkness. A medium-bodied, somewhere between easy and very ripe so balance is the answer. Soft, pliable and yet notable tannin supports very fine acidity and blood orange fruit. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2020

Cornarea Roero DOCG 2017

From go the feeling is bones, Canale karst intuition and structure. It is in here that nebbiolo takes on another level and layer of possibility. That said the fruit is caught between the posit poles of ripe and rustic. Very close to an exceptional wine. Just needs a bit earlier preserved acidity and passion. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

La Libera

Deltetto 1953 Roero DOCG 2017

Quite near the top of the bright factor though some warmth and weight keep this on the right side of density and extraction. Tannins are bigger and grippier than expected so really, ostensibly steal the show. Let this settle though when it does the S. Stefano Roero fruit will be tighter and drying into further floral crispness. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted January 2020

Enrico Serafino Roero DOCG 2017

The brightest nebbiolo from Canale Roero gives straight-shooting cherry aroma and flavour. Floral in a dried rose potpourri way with fine acidity and a liquid chalkiness though more from an almost neutral beeswax feel, rather than true blue tannin. Interesting wine that seems to come from limestone, even if it does not. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

***** Giovanni Almondo Roero DOCG 2017

Light, bright, effusive and effulgent. Smells a bit like coffee and tobacco which is in great contrast to the transparency of hue and texture. Quite floral, intense and structured. This is serious nebbiolo from Montà and surely a harbinger for the commune in terms of its soils, abilities and wealthy forward thinking possibilities. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale Roero DOCG 2017

Bright and effusive Canale nebbiolo with cherry transparency and notable tannins. Hovering in between beats in terms of fruit pectin substance though the keel is balanced and proper. All the parts are there and in line if just a step shy of giving away a step up dance party impression. Drink 2021-2024. Tasted January 2020

***** Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero DOCG Bric Volta 2017

A vineyard monople and 100 per cent Canale nebbiolo with sand and minerals in the soil at the top of the hill. Makes for smooth and sweet tannins. Everything about this nebbiolo is just that. Silk threaded through cashmere and there is no mistaking the origin. This is not Barolo or Barbaresco. It’s purely Roero and at the haute heights of chic and beauty. And it has a minor volatile flaw in funk that adds character and complexity. After all we wouldn’t want it to be perfect. Drink 2020-2029. Tasted January 2020

Mario Costa Roero DOCG 2017

Ripe and very developed fruit, a touch of figgy raisin character. Feel the sandy Canale soil and the development then takes over completely. Drink 2020. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Marsaglia Roero DOCG 2017

Darker hued and ripe beyond so many, this is the nebbiolo from Roero to entice, induce and seduce with its inviting and substantial fleshiness. Also tannic with a late arriving bitter-sour edging that suggests a heavier pressing and bigger ambition. Chewy and filling with plenty of weight, almost to the precipice of warmth and distraction. From Castellinaldo. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2020

***** Monchiero Carbone Roero DOCG 2017

Some great initial interest on this Roero nebbiolo nose, distinctly violet floral mixed with a waft of fresh tobacco. You note the wood here, lightly vanilla, mildly spiced and a touch of sandalwood coming in late. Right proper structure and Canale possibilities intact. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2020

Rabino F.Lli Di Rabino Andrea Roero DOCG 2017

A nearly searing S. Vittoria d’Alba nebbiolo with a dried fruit quality and quite demanding tannins. Notably woody and the seeds of tannic thrush take over to render the fruit almost sterile and unavailable. Hard to see it returning, like overtly demanding Gattinara. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted January 2020

Osteria dei Sognatori

Roero Riserva DOCG 2016

Bric Castelvej Roero Riserva DOCG Selezione Panera Alta 2016

A higher toned and also ripe 2016 Canale Riserva for nebbiolo that makes one think of North American pinot noir. The strawberry is nearly candied (west coast) and there’s an evergreen note (eastern cool climate) so the juxtaposition is a candid one. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

***** Cà Di Cairè Di Rolfo Emanuele Roero Riserva DOCG 2016

Spiked juiced is this aromatic Montà nebbiolo, he of sharp acids and grippy tannin. Not the morbido and supple Roero Riserva that many are and so many others aspire to be but when you encounter such structure you just know the soils are responsible. You also figure the winemaker made the wine that had to be made. This will be very long lived. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Ca Rossa Roero Riserva DOCG Mompissano 2016

Cool and just hinting at a mentholated note in a very transparent Canale nebbiolo. The barrel is clearly a factor and melted nicely in for good integration and balance. Makes for a sweet fruit profile and perfectly great ubiquitous Roero Riserva. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2016

Here Vezza d’Alba Roero Riserva does nebbiolo less like the side of the river where it resides and more like Barbaresco. That may sound like a good idea but the resemblance is not one in a mirror but instead a look that tries a bit too hard. Well made but out of context and place. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

***** Cascina Del Pozzo Roero Riserva DOCG Serra Zoanni 2016

Quiet if cool and savoury to the edge of verdancy. Nebbiolo from Roero can go this route, delicate when chilled and refreshing even while in Castellinaldo Riserva form. Warming the glass releases the volatile notes in a what is ostensibly a cool-climate condition. This drinks like frappato meeting cabernet franc and that’s a delicious combination with the added specificity of a cru named Serra Zoanni. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Lanzarotti Roero Riserva DOCG Carlinot 2016

So much vanilla emits from this wooden ship of a Canale nebbiolo for Roero Riserva. Cool palate feels go herbal and then the vanilla continues to creep. One-dimensional nebbiolo. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

Deltetto 1953 Roero Riserva DOCG Braja 2016

High level example of chic style and prominent wood clothing. Smooth and in the vanilla, not to mention so much spice. Tannic structure ruins through every pore. Big nebbiolo from S. Stefano Roero and Braja cru. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted January 2020

Filippo Gallino Roero Riserva DOCG Sorano 2016

Lovely excess of volatility and ripeness matched by verdancy for Roero Riserva of dedication to tradition. The intensity of the Canale-Sorano fruit-acid compendium is a bit strained and forced. Has worked very hard and the time is now to drink up. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

Lorenzo Negro Roero Riserva DOCG S. Francesco 2016

A bright red and white lighting nebbiolo from Monteu Roero here speaks to younger vines and sandier soils. Bright red fruit is less Riserva and more Annata with sharp and tang-riddled acidity. Prominent food wine with some wood spice and warmth at the finish. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

***** Malvirà Roero Riserva DOCG Vigna Renesio 2016

Earthy and wild fruit aromatic Canale nebbiolo with a real case of the reds and the blues. The guess of Vigna Renesio would be blue clay soil in this particular case as per the way it wells with curiosity. Lots of barrel influence but the bones are supported by a chalkiness that is just starting to liquify, though several years will allow for a slow recline. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted January 2020

***** Monchiero Carbone Roero Riserva DOCG Printi 2016

Proper emittance, high-toned and regaling, going in many directions, mostly to culminate at a vortex where complexity lives. Rich and vigorous Pinti cru nebbiolo in Canale, complicit with all parts, fruit very much alive and texture rampant in waves and variegation. Top example of Riserva and not yet at the peak. Drink 2021-2028. Tasted January 2020

***** Negro Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2016

Simple, light, airy and delicate Sudisfà Roero of lovely disposition, namely finesse. Such integration and seamlessness is to be lauded, not to mention how drinkable and pleasurable it truly is. Not the most structured (though it is blessed with enough) but that matters little when all other parts do so much to please. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Pace Roero Riserva DOCG 2016

On the light and delicate Canale side, even for Roero Riserva with a full compliment of barrel incline while the wine already shows signs of decline. It’s quiet and lovely but no stuffing remains. Just some spice and soaked woody notes. Drink 2020. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Pelassa Roero Riserva DOCG Antaniolo 2016

Tones set to high and wood bringing things back down in a topsy-turvy example that wafts so much creamy vanilla. Just too much wood and very little integration, not to mention a hot finish. From Montà. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

Ponchione Maurizio Roero DOCG 2017

Oxidative and nearly prune in aromas. Spice and blood orange, quite astringent. Expressive from hard pressing and replete with green tannins. From Govone. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

Porello Marco Roero Riserva DOCG San Michele 2016

Elegantly soft Canale nebbiolo in Riserva clothing from the San Michele cru for Roero with little effort needed to find prime and simple joy while needing little to no structure in the mix. At least from this point going forward. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Trees of Cherasco, Piemonte

Renato Buganza Radici E Filari Roero Riserva DOCG 2016

Fromm Guarene, a simplified nebbiolo with no shortage of red and ropey fruit at peak sugar ripeness unmatched by phenolics just a touch short. Makes for high acid, tart and taut tannins with a green edge. Drink 2020-2021. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Taliano Michele Roero Riserva DOCG Roche Dra Bossora 2016

Lots going on from the top with a multifarious aromatic Montà drift. Tons of red fruit, a spike of volatility and a touch of Brettanomyces. Plenty of palate flavour and texture, finishing with a creamy if cool pool created by the time in wood. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Valdinera Roero Riserva DOCG San Carlo 2016

From Corneliano d’Alba and one of the ripest examples at the height of sweet strawberry. Almost all and only about fruit with very little barrel influence though the tannins are a bit astringent. Close but just a bit tightly pressed and wound. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Roero DOCG 2007 and Riserva DOCG 2006

Filippo Gallino Roero DOCG 2007

Near tertiary 13 year-old Roero nebbiolo from Canale with a lovely disposition and acidity that will not and perhaps never relent. Showing beautifully and with sweet fruit still intact. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2006

Perhaps the richest of the retrospective Roero nebbioli is this from Cascina Chicco in Vezza d’Alba, all wood, chocolate, high acids and crunchy spice. A very oaky wine with plenty of drive that will not relent as a result of its strong-willed ambition. Wow, apropos for the Valmaggiore moniker. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Lorenzo Negro Roero Riserva DOCG S. Francesco 2006

Was a deeper, richer and riper nebbiolo from Monteu Roero-Roero for sure so now it has really rendered and deepened to wet earth. Still full of acidity and the trend is starting to appear with the obviousness of the grape-place-age relationship. Serious if pressing S. Francesco stuff here from Negro Lorenzo. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Monchiero Carbone Roero Riserva DOCG Printi 2006

Quite advanced and deservedly so for Roero nebbiolo with yet another look at the aging capabilities from the lesser appreciated Canale lands. Acids are quite striking here and the tannins surprisingly alive. Everything is. That’s nothing short of remarkable and surely far from lactic, Good site this Printi. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Taliano Michele Roero Riserva DOCG Roche Dra Bossora 2006

Taliano’s Montà nebbiolo is really showing its age and missing the classic Roero acidity. Actually comes through late along with the really drying tannins. Fruit vacated house a while back. Drink 2020. Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

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Tag Archives: Marsaglia

The sparkling rise of Alta Langa

Where in Piemonte?

The goods on geology

Disciplinare

History

The wines of Gancia today

The innovation of Enrico Serafino

Some dinner wines

The blind tasting (69 wines)

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Nebbiolo previews 2024: Roero DOCG 2021, Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019 and Retrospectives

Roero DOCG 2021

Roero Riserva DOCG 2020

Roero Riserva DOCG 2010

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Alba

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Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019

Barbaresco DOCG 2011

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009

Roero DOCG Previews and Retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2016, 2007 and Riserva 2006

La Bottiglia Albeisa

What’s going on, under the ground?

The language of Roero

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Roero DOCG 2017

Roero Riserva DOCG 2016

Roero DOCG 2007 and Riserva DOCG 2006