What is Barbaresco? The answer can’t help but be complex, but the best approach is to look back, to recall some of the finest nebbiolo tasted from the denomination’s villages and communes, of Alba, Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. Memories of unrelenting Barbaresco having acted out with impunity, aromatic exoticism, power, fragrance, precision and balance. Exceptional and unparalleled nebbiolo built upon tannic building blocks, understood, necessary, gratifying and satisfying. Recollection and reminiscence will return to the most human emotions, to the most underestimated of Piedmontese wines. Those that make you think, smile, wink, cry and sigh. They that speak of the vineyard and how properly they are treated. The nebbioli that get under your skin, teach you what you need to know and tell you that everything is alright. Barbaresco as good friends, therapists and if need be, they can be festaioli.

Related – Nebbiolo Previews 2024: Barolo 2020 DOCG, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018 and Retrospectives

The finest Barbaresco knows itself like a great human perfectly comfortable in its own skin and it might live to the age of 30 without experiencing one single moment of stress. They are quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, reserved, demure and only wishing to be experienced in states of calm and comfort. Aromas but a whisper and flavours tacitly generous, unspoken while turning up the volume. Low and slow development lingering tannin, untangled, untwisted and liberated. Nebbiolo spoken with the utmost clarity and reminders that Barbareschi can offer some of the greatest nebbiolo values. Think of a vintage and forward 15 years to when the integration of fruit causes the wine to become a victim of happy imbibers. Such is the case for the imagination and projections for two dozen international journalists gathered at the Albeisa Wines offices in Alba for the 28th edition of Nebbiolo Prima. Each possessive of their pwn personal calling to mind of past experiences in order to bring about a focus on the present.

Related – Nebbiolo Previews: Barbaresco DOCG 2020 and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Barbaresco from Alba are to a nebbiolo very pretty examples, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Most are lovely with mid term aging potential. For the village and commune of Barbaresco 2021 is an airy, dreamy and ethereal vintage with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this style could not exist at a high level of nebbiolo. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. From Neive the nebbioli are village typical of this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol, or at least the equivalent per se. More airy and open quality but also nervy, with real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice. As for Treiso, the wines are richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before these nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. So correct in their aromatic ways, not looking for praise, but worthy of it anyway. Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound.

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva are young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air, unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy, singular style and distinction, built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. As for the season coming next for Riserva, 2020 was launched by a Spring with quite a bit of rain, followed by a warm summer and then a normal harvest in the last week of September into the first of October for both the nebbiolo of Roero and Barbaresco. When the 2023s come into play they will be the children unscathed with no significant problems noted in the Langhe, especially as it pertains to the perenospera (downy mildew) virus. In fact 2021 was a much more difficult and challenging vintage due to extreme climatic events.

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Roero DOCG 2021

Bric Castelvej Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Very forward fruit with a distinct vintage nebbiolo feel, straight away into the wild strawberry mixed with pomegranate way. Langhe and nebbiolo from Roero must be distinct and different than Barbaresco which is precisely what this is. Acids are very fine and tannins very manageable. Not a heavily structured wine, nor does it need to be. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero DOCG Bric Volta 2021, Canale

A bit deep in fruit as compared with some yet also reserved, nearly dullish aromatically speaking. Some potency and alcohol blocking the view to perfume. Chewy with a vanilla-caramel fudge quality that detracts from an “expected” Roero style. That is if such a thing is definable but this meets other expectations. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cornarea Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Light and transparent for easy access nebbiolo from Roero, aromatically perfumed if demurely so. Crisp and tart, basic tannins with no real bite and soft spice. Basic and serviceable. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Battaglino Angelo di Battaglino Margherita Roero DOCG pQlin 2021, Castellinaldo

True specificity for nebbiolo with Roero as its host, here from the Castagnito cru and clearly respected as such. Mild sausage in swarthy notes that keep the aromas as the transfixed point of optics and olfactory interest. Then things turn over to a palate equally curious, attractive and wild. It’s all here for the interest and the taking. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Marsaglia Roero DOCG Brich d’America 2021, Castellinaldo

Truly tart and high acid nebbiolo from fruit pulled out of the cru called Castellinaldo. Rich and sumptuous though thinning on the palate or rather a wine that turns into this linear scintillant by varietal design. It’s a curious one that’s just a bit fraught with acetic matters. Can see the appeal for those who look for high caste tonality and energy. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ponchione Maurizio Roero DOCG Monfrini 2021, Govone

Cask sample: Very quiet nose from a nebbiolo reticent to open and set forth whatever it wishes to say. Requires major swirl, agitation and imagination. The palate is expressive of great richness and acids are still working through their repetitions. Chalky tannins and good pulse. Plenty off potential here. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Frea Lorenzo e Giovanni Roero DOCG 2021, Montaldo Roero

From the cru called Montaldo Roero and a nebbiolo with a notable and frankly knowable scent of diesel. Curious as to what causes this sort of aroma? Also pencil lead, graphite and cool metal. Clearly a terroir slash mineral example that has been exaggerated by the fermentative decisions. Crunchy wine and hopefully one to flesh out once these austere and drying tannins begin to dissipate. The potential is, well potentially great. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manuele Priolo Roero DOCG Anime Nere 2021, Monteu Roero

Quite acetic, verging on uncompromisingly swarthy and reductive in the most rubbery of ways. Agitation does little to blow it away. Barnyard though it’s not a case of Brettanomyces. Faulted in any case.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero DOCG Bin Fait 2021, Più comuni

Truly fruity aromatics, almost candy floss but confected in any case with strawberry the first to drive imagination and so perhaps we can get some satisfaction. Tannic, chalky and with a fully unctuous quality to speak of a wine that should shed the confiture and settle in before becoming something special. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Azienda Agricola Rosavica Benotti Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

Could be the cru, the winemaking or better still both because the structure in this Roero is at the tops for the range off “Classica” nebbioli. Austere tannins, fine if sweet acids and more than ample fruit prepare this 2021 Priocca for a long life ahead, Something about this MGA that speaks volumes about the potential for Roero. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cordero Gabriele Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

The second of two Priocca cru is entirely apposite to the first, still tannic but here austere and really closed up front. There is some solid fruit hiding beneath and the palate tells a more open story but still the MGA is without a doubt the kind to create age-worthy nebbiolo. This sets a table for Roero to express heritage but with knowledge in pocket because making wine today is a new matter and one to allow wines to open in a year or two and then last for several after that. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Roero Riserva DOCG 2020

Careglio Pierangelo Roero Riserva DOCG Valmezzana 2020, Baldissero d’Alba

A charming vintage for Roero nebbiolo, perhaps less extracted and concentrated as compared to some but no less important or structured for good aging potential. Here from the area of Baldissero d’Alba with more than ample stuffing to march alongside tannins already beginning to resolve. This Riserva is very close to its peak that should come about before the end of this calendar year. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2020, Canale

Higher toned nebbiolo here for Roero, bright and unencumbered by gravity. Some compaction in the tannin but not the fruit which rises weightless and free. Not a fully together communion but more so a Canale in two parts with wood standing apart as a result. Will continues to meet closer to the middle as it ages but drinking this in the next five to seven years is key because after that the fruit freshness will no longer be hanging around. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Mompissano 2020, Canale

Some funky beats in this Roero, local cheese rind and cured meat skins, a definite porcino feel and all that Canale savoir faire. Smells like the Alba market in late November, replete with dried porcini and fresh tartufi. Complex and parochial, tart, full of tang and a tincture of bitters. A special nebbiolo if not the most modern or unassuming kind. Drink 2024-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bric Castelvej Roero Riserva DOCG Panera Alta 2020, Canale

High-toned and quiet acetic on the nose which is a bit off-kilter for Roero as Riserva. Excess wood, overtly stemmy and savoury. Too vivid and the wood is so in our faces without tact. This will need to settle but may never do so, especially because what fruit there is feels so muddled by the wood and startling piques. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto e c. Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Canale

Quite a classic set of Roero nebbiolo aromas and enough substance behind the structure to put this at Riserva level quality. Lots of wood noted as well but as mentioned there is ample concentration from quality fruit to stand up and be counted alongside. Well made wine with clear ambition to age which it will do quite well. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Renesio 2020, Canale

Truly rich nebbiolo in Riserva form for Canale and Roero in a near perfect storm of all parts involved. In fact despite the ambitious wood there is really good and concentrated fruit of high quality to mix and match along. Rich and strong wine, lots of chocolate and potential to age up there with some of the finer Roero. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero Riserva DOCG Carlinöt 2020, Canale

Quite reductive for the trilogy of variety, vintage and place. A rubbery example of nebbiolo, woody 2020 and liquid peppery Roero to Canale. Rich enough, concentrated fruit and sturdy to not only handle but transform those reductive misgivings. Comes away tougher, stronger and equipped to handle the future. In the end the quality and potential are quite great. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Valdinera Roero Riserva DOCG San Carlo 2020, Corneliano d’Alba

Reduction though less than others but this seems to be a trend for Roero Riserva from the 2020 vintage. A real silky glycerol iteration here from Corneliano d’Alba with richness and fulsome qualities. Some bitter herbs and tight at the finish yet otherwise a sound and grippy wine. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renato Buganza Roero Riserva DOCG Renato Buganza 2020, Guarene

The Guarene nebbiolo is quite aromatically potent for Roero, a boozy feel straight away, a real punch up the olfactory. A swirl of liquor managed by thick glycerol and a heaviness with some Brettanymyces showing up on the palate. A bit shaggy with brittle tannins as a result. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelassa Daniele Roero Riserva DOCG S…….I 2020, Montà

Montà delivers a very pretty and charming example of nebbiolo from Roero with naturally sweet parts from start to finish. Fruit is conjoined to tannin by way of acids that are the catalyst and the ties that bind the wine. This is lovely and graceful, Riserva worthy and willing to please, if just about right away. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2020, Monteu Roero

Reductive and a bit swarthy here, some acetic notions mixed with swirling emotions. A bit buggy, hairspray, vinyl shower curtain action and so faults are faults, no matter the grape, time or place. Not a happy iteration of nebbiolo, 2020 or Monteu Roero I’m afraid. Over the top wood to boot.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Le Coste 2020, S. Stefano Roero

Sone stoic personality here and quire reserved for Roero in Riserva clothing. Thick aromatic swirl, round and round it goes, never stopping and when it will no one knows. As with so many of its ilk the summary is marked by wood that cloaks and sheathes the fruit so that it submits and succumbs. Too much wood and the question is why? Structure and aging but fruit freshness must be there for the beginning to project real success. There is some but it’s covered and hidden. By the time it finds its way out it will mostly be gone. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Demarie Giovanni di Demarie Aldo Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Cask sample: Now for something completely different. Ribena? Yes, that is Ribena, up front and central to the notes in this nebbiolo. Ribena that may dissipate once bottled but will always be part of the fabric. That and an overuse of wood. Vanilla and lavender are omnipresent and the nebbiolo is lost. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore, Vezza d’Alba

Fine aromatic nebbiolo for Roero comes like this and we appreciate the honesty. In Riserva terms the wood is as ambiguous and/or integrated as well as any in the category. It’s there but it works in tandem with quality fruit just concentrated enough to handle and play well in the box. Somewhat simple but very serviceable wine. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacomo Barbero Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Well managed tannin and wood have set this Roero up for good success. A balanced nebbiolo for Vezza d’Alba, of middle road taken parts, concentrated but not excessively so and oak that works the same line. Good bones but again, nothing large, ambitious or serious about it. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Roero Riserva DOCG 2010

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Trinità 2010, Canale

Fine shape and steading at 13-plus years of age for nebbiolo from Roero, quietly and comfortably secondary without worry from advancing into tertiary anytime soon. A Christmas cake or plum pudding kind of state, home cooking and acidity very much in tact. Easement with nebbiolo of yesteryear to act as spokeswine for why Roero should be discussed today in its own light. Drink 2024-2027.   Tasted January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2010, Più comuni

A Più comuni nebbiolo that has lost its aromatics but neither its sheen nor lustre after 13+ years post vintage. Now only acid relatable smells, a varnish or a spray and while the palate is slightly more expressive it’s still about all concepts tart. No fruit to speak of, nor complexities truly secondary.  Tasted January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2010, Vezza d’Alba

More maturity for sure on the aromas though they are exotically charged and emotionally inviting. Tones are set to high and surely always were for nebbiolo that would have been dominated by red citrus in its primary fruit stages. Now the wood is noticed, melted and pooled in a macerated mess of evolution and reeking of varnishes. The perfumes are sweet, the flavours sour but like chewy confections, gum arabic “pate de jujubes” so-to-speak. Like dessert nebbiolo with just a gram or two of residual sugar. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco DOCG 2021

Alba

Alessandro Rivetto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Alba

Barrel sample: Somewhat mature and already advanced for a wine not yet bottled or supposed to be ready. Dried fruit notes, like leathery plum and persimmon, juicy enough yet knowably moving forward with haste. Quite the level of tang though acidity is mild and this will clearly need to be consumed in the near term. Drink 2024-2025.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria Di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2021, Alba

Very pretty example of nebbiolo from Alba as Barbaresco, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Crisp and also a 2021 you can sink your teeth into, with fine acidity and equally representative tannin. A truly proper example of Barbaresco for mid-plus aging. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Sanadaive 2021, Alba

Quite the pretty aromatics and a simple palate with a bit of weakness or hollowness in the middle parts. Tannins dry out, not brittle mind you but they don’t add to the equation. A Barbaresco by subtraction. Drink 2026-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Rizzi 2021, Alba

Cask sample: This first look at the Barbaresco cru and while this both expresses for upfront fruit and also delivers a structured message, it’s not quite as stiff and vertical as some of its nebbiolo counterparts. That red fruit design might come from more organic or generous terroir within the cru or the winemaking might pull the fruit quicker and keep the tannins at bay. Either way it’s a lovely example of Barbaresco with mid term aging potential. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2021, Barbaresco

An airy, dreamy and ethereal quality in presentation with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this will not exists at a high level of Barbaresco. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. Wait three years to get some answers. Drink 2027-2035.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Reduction spoken though volatile compounds, liquid peppery and a vague moment’s notice of Brettanomyces. Nothing egregious but definitely an accent of style. Lots of substance here, weight and also flesh, not to mention drying tannins. The austerity is positive and while the volatility will also have its say this traditional and characterful Barbaresco will please the buyer who looks for those mired and paying homage to traditional ways. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Thin and unassuming aromas followed by similar nondescript palate notions. A touch jammy but also green and weedy. Nothing egregious but nor is this offering up anything special, especially by Barbaresco standards. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Really knowable nebbiolo nose from the Barbaresco cru, richly defined and of a purity of varietal fruit. Fulsome and substantial of floral meeting mineral openings before transferring seamlessly to flavours equally luxe and supported by essential structure. This is years away from its finale, set upon a course across seas of low, slow and incremental development before it comes to rest on a shore where the world of the Langhe is properly revealed. This my be a sample but it is clearly a wine to drink over a minimum 15 years of time. Wow. Stupendo. Drink 2026-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Of the light, taut and demure kind, a nebbiolo held back though one that will never become a big and fleshy affair. Some swarthy chew to the palate which feels quite disparate to the aromatics but as a sample it is given the benefit of the doubt to settle down and in. Some raw dough as well which indicates some incongruence in fermentative temperatures in conjunction with what this Barbaresco fruit requested and required. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Montaribaldi 2021, Barbaresco

From the Barbaresco cru and a heady if also impressively floral set of aromas emanating from the glass. Also the first of the 2021s to deliver blood orange and so suddenly thoughts turn to considering that fruit aroma as a hallmark of the vintage, at least for the MGA of Barbaresco. There is some taut behaviour and grip to the mouthfeel so be wary of drinking this anytime soon because it may grab your palate and suck the energy away. Give two years to allow a settling and better integration before this ’21 can initiate the pique to curiosity and potential. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

The nose may be closed on this nebbiolo but it just feels like much is hidden in the hallways, shadows and chiaroscuro of the vintage. A wealth of flesh and likely vertically upright skeletal bones that put this hearty example from Barbaresco at the pinnacle for cru and vintage. Truth in palate confirms suspicion and expectation driven by facts and figures from a sunbeam of a wine built on artistic power and creative science. This will win hearts, minds and palate wherever it may be poured. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Some formaggi straight away with good red fruit though less rustic than what that washed rind note would have first seemed to dictate. Solid palate, fleshy and juxtaposed against a drying, genuinely austere backdrop of tannins. This is somewhat old school but also expressive of major personality. Give it two years and enjoy the slow change over the coming eight. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Morassino 2021, Barbaresco

Acetic, jumpy, unsettled, very acid driven. Also another balsamic example from vintage where that is the exception to the rule. High toned in just about every respect yet there is a juiciness to the fruit that wells and pools on the palate. Dries out severely at the finish to confirm earlier suspicions and also begs for time. Drink 2026-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Yet another quiet aromatic entry for a nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA, unsurprising and quite typical for the vintage. Some roses as dried as they are fresh (or a mix of the two) and rosy red fruit in the currant-pomegranate style. Crisp and crunchy, with dried herbs, mountain brush and tea. Well made, older-schooled, austere and traditionally very correct. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Rattalino Massimo Barbaresco DOCG Quarantadue42 2021, Barbaresco

Sometimes nebbiolo presents as a swarthy, almost Amaro-inflected liqueur and this would be said example of that style. Luxe both aromatically and also in terms of flavours yet boozy, a tonic of fruits and bitters, stirred, swirled, viscous and unctuous. A bit over the top in this regard and pasty, with a raw potato finish. Given two years it will integrate better but will fall off a cliff another year after that. Drink 2026-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

The nose may be closed on this nebbiolo but it just feels like much is hidden in the hallways, shadows and chiaroscuro of the vintage. A wealth of flesh and likely vertically upright skeletal bones that put this hearty example from Barbaresco at the pinnacle for cru and vintage. Truth in palate confirms suspicion and expectation driven by facts and figures from a sunbeam of a wine built on artistic power and creative science. This will win hearts, minds and palate wherever it may be poured. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Quiet, quite reserved and immovable nebbiolo, best left to fight another day. Somewhat acetic, of two-toned balsamic notes and it has already become apparent that this is not in fact a balsamic vintage. Tart yet full on the palate and a Barbaresco that reminds of 2017, with dried fruit, dusty tannins and high acid. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Pora 2021, Barbaresco

Wildly fragrant nebbiolo, knowable and volumetric, confidence exuded and table set for what’s to come. Fruits of many ilk and austere tannins with everything in compliment, though far from integrated. Great grip, potency and structure in what is becoming a hallmark of the vintage: Power without alcoholic presence. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco Rabaja DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Just as a comment on the last wine was made about the vintage not being one of alcoholic notability along comes an example that is just that. Then again the fruit and the overt structure seem quite capable of handling the tension and the pressure. Clearly serious nebbiolo here from Barbaresco though also one exuding confidence, high libido and no shame. The first to truly show its casks with ambition and this will live for a decade and potentially two or more. Drink 2026-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Rabaja-Bas 2021, Barbaresco

More reserve, more waiting, more time needed to see where a 2021 nebbiolo will travel. Still this is a light and tart example with very drying tannins and not quite enough fruit stuffing to see it conjure great expectations. Fine enough while acids are equally intense to put this in near if not quite top exemplary status. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Rio Sordo 2021, Barbaresco

Fine pulse and weight to the nose of this nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA. Notable and knowable red fruit that comes in waves before crashing at the palate’s shore. But just as waves will do they keep coming in syncopated rhythm and this 2021 is neither calm nor stormy but something in the middle, therefore consistent and imitable. Really good weight, measure and balance overall. Really quite fine and age-worthy. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2021, Barbaresco

Reticent and somewhat thinning if also dishy aromatics. They do improve and flesh out with air so be sure to take a moment and wait with this nebbiolo because it will realize more potential then first thought. Still the palate is simple and while effective it does not grab or cause excitement. It’s dullish and low down. Well enough and good for the short term. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Ronchi 2021, Barbaresco

Quite taut, tart and tight nebbiolo with opening grip and an intensity both on the nose and equally so upon the palate. Crunchy and verdant, some freshness but also dried qualities, both floral and herbal. Older schooled, for tradition and heritage, well made, preserved and determined. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Neive

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

More airy and open quality here but also nervy for nebbiolo, of always specific Barbaresco ways. A glycerin feel to the palate and real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice and then forming texture. Really high quality here, some grip to the tannin but not necessarily what one might think of as tension. An elastic sensation, stretching and returning back in balance. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani DOCG 2021, Neive

So typical of Neive Barbaresco is this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol or at least the equivalent per se. This particular nebbiolo is expressive of something marine in origin, almost oyster shell which could indicate terroir or something blowing in from afar. Either way it’s both curious and piquing for cerebral interest. A wine of substance and complexity, sweet acidity and drying tannin. Kind of classic with a twist, when you think about it. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Stoic, austere, unrelenting nebbiolo. Holding firm on the aromatic front, keeping still, a target hard to define, pinpoint or access. Fruit in the shadows but its there and we trust that when it emerges the wine will sing in the way that nebbiolo is meant to sing. There are parts to this wine with meaning and again, when things come together the balance will be tight, because we can already intuit such a feeling. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Light on its feet, simple and selectively structured nebbiolo. Balanced, no out of sort parts or sensations not in line with the others. Today seemingly basic and unexceptional if quite possibly misunderstood in youth – but surely correct for Barbaresco, Basarin and nebbiolo. May come out and awy in a few years and offer new surprises. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

The first Barbaresco 2021 of this deep red hue and clearly something extra or pressed sits in this glass. The perfume confirms the suspicion because no other example in a sea of 60 samples appears and is expressed this way. Intensely perfumed, floral to an nth degree and what follows is rich, extremely tart and powerful. The ambition and the wood here are far greater than most and it works, for the most part, but the drying finish tells us that the impression will be shorter lived. The next two years are needed for settling and the following three (or possibly four) will be its most impressive. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

A solid, richly defined and properly structured nebbiolo with Barbaresco flesh and bones. Nothing overly impressive or excitement but solid, serviceable and exemplary to the degree of requiem or necessity. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG Canova 2021, Neive

Glycerol, syrupy nebbiolo with a mildly stewed character. Both aromas and palate are in synch with this style and tannins are present if drying and out of that rhythm. Not a lot of equanimity or joy. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2021, Neive

One of the darker, more unctuous and well established fruit cumulate nebbiolo from Neive and that is in fact a trait of certain examples from that village and MGA. Much to go on, fruit pectin and terroir so resourceful to bring personality and also character to this nearly formidable wine. Not so much in a structured way because this shows some maturity and hasty development but it’s tasty and useful for the near term. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Giuseppe di Negro Piergiorgio Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Truly proper Neive entry in perfume of red fruits and flowers so succinctly, purely and precisely defined. No let down in flavours with rich, luxe and some developed notes but the tannins and also acids are inlined to see this carry forward for a proper and serviceable amount of time. Well made, presentable and expressive of the place. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Reductive in a rubber and liquid peppery way to put this in reserve style for nebbiolo from Neive. The potential just has to be great when you consider the substance that lurks beneath the shell with nary a thought of potential negation. Rich, powerful and structured for long aging to speak for Barbaresco that as modern as it will eventually become inviting. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bera di Bera Valter Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Holding firm form and staying tight as the cask sample it should be and one a bit hard to assess at this early stage. Rich of fruit and sweet acids with more than ample to substantial weight in reserve. Quite fine and of a stature that fills the requiem of Barbaresco desire if of a very modern design. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sarìa di Abbruzzo Francesco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Yet another succinct and knowable example of Neive nebbiolo with its glycerol and sweet acids sired into fruit for impressive elixir stature. Much to admire about the nose with its red fruit and florals though there is a hint of Ribena or perhaps strawberry cordial. It’s a lovely swirl, a bit more showy than graceful but worthy of an impression made nonetheless. There are many who will see the flavour and the success in this wine. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Palazzina 2021, Neive

Far from showy, on the lighter, taut and closed side of nebbiolo but the palate will almost certainly tell a different story. That it does with more unction and varietal liqueur, silk and liquid chalky tannin in good support. Some dried fruit there so not a Barbaresco to lay down for a decade and likely quite a bit less than that. The wood here leads to seeing a truffled future arriving before too long. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2021, Neive

Well established, conditioned and positioned Barbaresco from and for Neive. Got the unction and the glycerol but aromatically speaking there is nothing gratuitous about the waves. They arrive and repeat in syncopated rhythm, as does the fruit and acid upon the palate. There are interchangeable moments of fine bitters and tannic pushes that support and extend this nebbiolo for length that lingers and repeats in better, finer and more impressive ways than most. A long term Barbaresco amongst the best. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Barbaresco DOCG Collina Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Dark of hue, richness of colour, pressed for success. Richness and luxe behaviour, all up front on display, a peacock strutting, its feathers for all to see. Low acids and drying tannins for not the best structural combination. Quick exit here. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Light, swarthy, older schooled, slightly Brettanomyces involved. Not the most substantial or expressive nebbiolo and while this could be looked upon as a late bloomer it does not seem like enough substance is hiding in the shadows. Basic wine at the end of the glass. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2021, Neive

Exotic spicing to nebbiolo may not typically define Neive yet here we are with such an animal in the village’s pot. Some swarthy aromas as well, plenty of wood in every respect and a wine that could use some time to at least try and settle down. Leathery skin, tannins a bit hard and brittle, weight quite well gauged and there is some fashion in this wine. Just a bit all over map if you get the drift. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

Cask sample: For Walter Fissore 2021 is a much more muscular vintage than either 2019 and 2020, a beautiful if hot vintage though normal season in terms of water. A normal season but today that means powerful wines. Harvested in Neive late September and will go to bottle in February, “at the time of the full moon, not because of biodynamics but because of tradition.” Incredible tannins here, very broad, like shoulders and this is what should be from ’21 Barbaresco, along with freshness and top ranking acidity. Grabs a hold of the palate and refuses to let go. We like that too. Potential is great. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted January 2024

Più comuni

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Teorema 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: Big cask sample, as rich and developed of 2021 fruit as any but also those that are already in bottle. It’s all there for the taking and there is already quite a bit of wood resolution on this nebbiolo so can’t really see any reason why it’s not already bottled. Time to get on it! Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Mon Sertù 2021, Più comuni

Just lovely perfume, purity of aromatic fruit, red berries incarnate and a nebbiolo that melts into the olfactory. Suave, silken and yet acids but also tannin show some grip, but never their teeth. A pretty swirl of all parts, variegated while together and though not a Barbaresco for the ages it’s surely one that well represents the category. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Morra Gabriele Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Fine, tight and exemplary which is the way a Barbaresco of Più comuni should attract and deliver the nebbiolo message. Very correct, expressly serviceable, of solid weight, mild volatility, bright acidity and a good example of the fine 2021 vintage. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: A gentle swarthiness and just that ever so slightly held back, tight and reserved set of qualities confirms the cask sample idea behind the unreleased notion of this wine. It’s not quite ready and yet not so far away so when it hits the bottle it will begin its pleasing phase within a year or so after that. Still in the teasing, pre-tasting way of nebbiolo but the time is approaching. Some Brettanomyces here, nothing urgent mind you but it does dry the finish a bit more than the wine would otherwise likely wish to do. Drink 2025–2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Treiso

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Ausario 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: A true cask sample from Treiso that might be considered treason were the desire to taste it be right now. Richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before this nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. Those tannins are demanding and the tension is palpable, only increased because the full and substantial flesh of this wine is wanting to be regulated. This will become something impressive indeed. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Casot 2021, Treiso

Sometimes typical can be a less than flattering tern but in this case it is meant to both compliment and admire a Barbaresco from Treiso that start off right. So correct in its aromatic ways, not looking for praise but worthy of it anyway. A rich swirl of fruit, floral and mineral, all parts being equal to set this up for a nebbiolo of great desire. More than solid in every respect, acids so sweet and fulsome, tannins present yet never austere. A really pretty Barbaresco, not for long aging but surely for up to five-plus really good drinking years. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Giacone 2021, Treiso

Treiso Barbaresco of a different sort, aromatic with herbal notes, some of them dried. Getting rosemary, fennel seed, pencil lead and chalk. More richness and liquidity on the palate that makes for a fine conversion and change of pace. A wine of two parts but each are interesting and inviting in their separate ways. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG Giacosa 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Heavy perfume, rich and unctuous, as is the palate that follows. This is a nebbiolo of mouthfeel, sumptuous and full, substantial and welling with that glycerol feel. Not typically Treiso per se but as a cask sample this could very well change in a year or two. The structure here is more than solid. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2021, Treiso

Very forward for Barbaresco and over the years this seems to be an increasing trend for Treiso. Warmer locations, sunspot and sun-drenching vineyards, major fruit accumulation and lesser if also sweeter tannins in result. In this sense the 2021 here is a perfect example of vintage and place so the conclusion is drink Treiso sooner than most other commune/village examples because (as a rule) they are meant to deliver early in just this way. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2021, Treiso

Once again Treiso gives and gives early, of easy to love and get with fruit, all red berries and stone type, tannins present yet unobtrusive. There is a bit more demand in the ones provided this nebbiolo but still it fits the Treiso mold in Barbaresco vernacular. Lovely drop, easy, correct and fashionably modern. Drink 2024-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: More crisp and crunchy nebbiolo, owing to the not yet bottled cask sample yet still Treiso and verifiably so. The wealthy fruit so naturally sweet with acids very much on a continuance of that line before tannins do nothing to waver or deviate from the party. A sample but one so close to reading itself for drinking. Get this to bottle so it can be enjoyed. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG Giacone Lorens 2021, Treiso

Less open and immediately gratifying for Treiso Barbaresco yet still an example expressive of some generosity because well, Tresio. All the parts are bigger and yet complimentary in this 2021. The fruit is full, the acids substantial and the tannins a bit more magnanimous than the average village iteration. Flesh and bones heightened, extended and ultimately impressive. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ Del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Autinbej 2021, Treiso

Brighter and back to the Treiso normal or average from this 2021. That said the wood is a bit heavier and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is in full effect. Makes for some artificial feels but still the village is at the heart of the matter. It just can’t help but be. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Munfrin di Flori Michele Barbaresco DOCG Flori 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready for prime time cask sample because first off its Treiso and secondly the aromas are more than open. A gregarious nebbiolo for a sample and one to invite, entice and also draw the senses forward. Not to mention a level of maturity of all three parts of the wine; fruit, acids and tannin. There are all good to go, save for just a moment’s austerity. Will be ready to drink less than a year from now. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bosio Family Estates Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2021, Treiso

More than just a gentle swarthiness marks this 2021’s entry and our senses become acutely and quickly aware of what’s to come. That would be a Treiso Barbaresco of overt personality juxtaposed against the drying of austere tannins. A bit of a disparate situation and challenging game being played. A prime example of a seriously structured nebbiolo that needs time. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barbaresco Pajorè DOCG 2021, Treiso

Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound. Good fruit substance though more red lightning and scintillant succulence than your average Treiso iteration. Shows some guts and braun, tension and potential for eventual glory. A big wine though also one so far away from the truest expression it will deliver. Dries out quite a bit at the finish so it feels like tension and lessening fruit will define its descending trajectory. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2021, Treiso

A rich and somewhat intense example of nebbiolo with the Treiso grace but exaggeratedly so. The fruit is pure village iterated but the structure is grippier and stronger than your average nebbiolo from there. Chewy one this Treiso, one you can really sink your teeth into its leathery hide. Quite substantial and the potential for aging is surely long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeirano 2021, Treiso

Back to basics with a light, fruit forward and amenable Tresio nebbiolo. On the left or easy side of the Barbaresco spectrum with tart acids and yet sneaky tannins. This is surely the pomegranate molasses style, textural with its sweet red fruit accented by even sweeter spice. Feel the wood here but it is already beginning to integrate. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready despite being a cask sample but stay calm and focused because there are some shadowy tannins waiting in the wings. A fineness of nebbiolo coupled with an ease of Treiso style puts this Barbaresco is fine steading and well balanced behaviour. A cheese rind note and also some sweet if musky charcuterie adds complexity if also curiosity. Very well styled, presented and set up for a good long life ahead.  Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Crisp, crunchy and drying nebbiolo here from Treiso, not perfectly typical, surely austere and in the end an old-school example. Noticeable wood and more dryness from the tannins that are provided. Time required and heeded will see to a much more open and forthcoming nebbiolo. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rizzi 2019, Alba

Cask sample: A cask sample but a maturing, dare it be said oxidative one. This is precisely the reason that cask sample assessments can be ill-fated and or deceiving. Not much to to go on here I’m afraid.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Camp Gros 2019, Barbaresco

A high-toned, airy and scintillant example of nebbiolo, especially as a Riserva from the 2019 vintage. Shows how place truly matters above all else, or rather it must, no matter the time or intent. Here the truth that is Barbaresco is spoken loud and clear. Present, accounted for and right up there in the stratosphere. Not the most structured vintage but surely or nearly ready for prime time. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ronchi Riserva 2019, Barbaresco

Yet another young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air example of Barbaresco unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy here for nebbiolo from the eponymous village equipped with more substantial fruit than many. A classic iteration so place specific with tannic austerity that works well alongside and in compliment to the uncluttered and spacious fullness of the wine. Ahead of the pack so choose wisely because “you pay for this, but they give you that.” This Ronchi is special, will live a very long time, long after many have lost their lustre, faded away, into the black. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2019, Neive

Some issues here, a flaw that is distracting, acetone namely and it kills the fruit. Problematic to be sure. Two bottles, each the same.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin Vigna Gianmate’ 2019, Neive

Once again a 2019 of distinct style and distinction that speaks in both a clear Neive village vernacular but also for the vintage. This is because both the succulence and also high tonality are set to high. Fine wine here, not overly fulsome or structured but somewhere comfortably in between. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2019, Neive

Lovely nebbiolo built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. A beautiful Barbareso from Neive that has already resolved quite dutifully and is just about ready to drink with philanthropy in the proverbial window. Steady and graceful, a very charming wine that everyone needs to know. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Roberto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Currà 2019, Neive

Fine Barbaresco, fruit forward and quite full, darker than many, including a great number from the 2019 vintage. Perhaps the kind of nebbiolo that really delivers a Riserva message if done so with more wood than others and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is a bit extra. Fine beginning with less enthusiasm felt at the finish. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Ugo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Gallina 2019, Neive

High tones and warm ones as well from a Barbaresco that feels boozier and bigger then many. That said the bones are big and strong, the flesh filling in the holes and everything moving in synch, incrementally forward and in a proper developing direction. An impressive Neive nebbiolo and one to gain traction as it ages. Will impress Barolo lovers and they whop seek bigger. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco Riserva DOCG  ‘Il Pilone’ 2019, Neive

Warm and liquid peppery aromatics, big fruit and also wood by design. The barrel holds a bigger say than in many Barbaresco and so the ambition here is clear, present and real. No danger but more time is needed to make things come into place and view. This will surely lead to a truffled and porcini filed future. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Campo Quadro 2019, Neive

Tang in flashes, spurts and fits from a nebbiolo that really hits the high notes. This from Neive is recognizable if at the highest of that village’s heights. So much acidity and so little time! Fortunately plenty of fruit to back it up but style is style. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ciabot 2019, Neive

Many of the Barbaresco Riserva for 2019 are either too young or to vivid to appreciate at this stage but this from Neive is just about right there. Really substantial fruit with that ropey liquorice feel, great red fleshiness and all the right kinds of supporting citrus. No lack for barrel or structure but this hits every note, ticks all boxes, dots the I’s and crosses its T’s. A fully formed, plausible and impressive Barbaresco in every regard. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Casmar 2019, Treiso

Yet another nebbiolo set to high, fruit and formaggi, cured meat and musky scents. Crazy acidity and drying tannins, wood spice and further tannic pressure in that way. All in Barbaresco with Treiso curiosity and charm in spite of how much happens to be going on. Will live a good decade or more, and beyond. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Cichin 2019, Treiso

As rises Treiso, so goes Treiso rising. A high tonality mixed with grace and charm like no other village for nebbiolo that is Barbaresco but here the vivid quality puts nature far ahead of nurture. That and generous wood with its supporting spices and sweet accents. Another fine Riserva for the vintage and one to age for a decade or more. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco DOCG 2011

Socré Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2011, Barbaresco

Perfectly fine, metered, reasonable, seasoned and measured older Barbaresco, distinctly nebbiolo and recent history tells that the Roncaglie cru will resolve this way. That would be with alcohol warmth intact, a warm vintage feeling of spices and seasoning, a gastronomy of varietal and place that always ends up this way. Why? It may answer “I don’t know, I guess the wind just pushed me this way.” Somewhere down the crazy (Tanaro) River. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Punset Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2011, Neive

Quite mature, quietly refined, confidently advanced and settled nebbiolo as Barbaresco from Neive’s important cru. Basarin was important then as it is now, a place where the long hill is exposed to the south by southeast and receives as much warmth as any in the appellation. That said Punset caught acidity at peak and the wine’s ability for preservation is admirable to exceptional. Keeps fruit alive even while leathery and drying notes gather momentum. There is great pleasure in sipping this 2011 (incidentally not qualified as Riserva) today. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2011, Treiso

No 2011 Barbaresco could be darker of hue or fresher of fruit than this Vallegrande cru by Grasso out of Treiso commune. That said it has been poured from magnum and once again we are wine-splained just how much of a difference longevity is affected by large format bottles. Sure the perfumes are showing maturity but time has been kind because of the receptacle size. A massively woody nebbiolo and so the aromas and flavours are all pooling with soy, varnish, chocolate and plum pudding spicing. This is very drinkable now but will soon begin to tip in a direction which will have little or nothing to do wth fruit. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Barbaresco

Now coming into Riserva from Barbaresco in its 15th season post vintage and who can forget the beauty of the 9s, from those that came before and also that which followed. This includes 2009, a season “made by God” as one or more producers were want to say. Of fruit so pure and free that time has been kind to preserve. Though quite sharp and tart at this stage it is with thanks to great acidity that this can show so fine and shine this bright as it does. A top echelon food wine for an older vintage that reeks, tastes and acts as only nebbiolo can be. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2009, Neive

Badly oxidized and fallen off the cliff. Hopefully there are better bottles of ’09 out there.  Tasted January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2009, Neive

Quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, a reserved and demure Barbaresco that only wishes calm and comfort. While aromas are a whisper and flavours are tacitly generous it is the unspoken in this Basarin that turns up the volume. Hard to find better in low and slow development with lingering tannin than what this 2009 by Adriano Marco e Vittorio has accomplished. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Neive

Fine aging, proper advancement, pretty much expectation met for a 14-15 year-old Barbaresco as Riserva. That said this would have been and very much still is a wine of much barrel, now all about resins and splinters with fruit faded well to black. Curious as an older wine though past the point of joy.  Tasted January 2024

Good to go!

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