Here a first. An endorsement of not only two wines by the same producer, but two Mâconnais. Get past the sexual innuendo of the appellation and give papa JJ Vincent some sugar. These are Chards of explosive character; wood prominent but not dominant, richly textured, party on the buds. Secret stashers consider Pouilly-Fuissé a hidden gem. According to Steven Spurrier, Château Fuissé’s Les Combettes, Les Brulés and Le Clos “are likely to be the first vineyards in the appellation to be classified Premier Cru.” Vincent’s wines do not vacillate, speak the truth and receive attention without ever asking for it. Some non-fiction for your reading pleasure:
CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ LES BRULÉS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (259820, $49) from the south facing ‘burnt’ slope is crème de la crème, fraîche et caramel. Consensus converges on 2013 but contemporary oak attack to me suggests cellaring for longer than what you might read. WS (92), WE (92), BH (91), CT’s (91), RJ (90) and Decanter (****, 16.5) are in the know.
CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (947721, $54) is the showier of the two. Extroverted, flirty, ready to dance. My note: The meritorious Mâconnais, stupid good with mounds of melon, pear and honey. A huge step up from the already impressive ’09 taxi squad teammates. Chards of diamond acidity cut through the nectarous textures and flavours. Streaks of genius. mjg 92
IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio
CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio
Good to Go!