Tag Archives: Bourgogne

VINTAGES February 18th Release, Thomas Bachelder

BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2009 (271841, $31.95) goes it alone, leaving LCJ in the dust. Bachelder the Chardcentric man of triple terrior is singularly obsessed and he’s aiming for market snare. This tight knit effort is frenetic like a Muppets Buddy Rich vs. Animal duel.  mjg 89

BACHELDER OREGON CHARDONNAY 2009 (273334, $36.95) is chock full of nuts, spice and ghee on Chapati-lized talc. A capacious bonny whale over an ocean of Willamette Valley Chards.  mjg 88 

BACHELDER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2009 (272005, $34.95) is an admirable if not exquisite first Burgundian effort. A generation away from making a statement, this is well-defined tree fruit, Uchizy-like, wannabe Bret Brothers  juice, still on the wishful side of greatness.  mjg 87

 

 

 

Good to go!

Judgement at Barberian’s, Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Now to share with you one taster’s fascination of experience,  his infectious enthusiasm and his awe in the presence of greatness.

 

by featured writer Jascha Baraness

Last week, I was fortunate enough to get invited to an epic BYOW Burgundy dinner in the wine cellar at Barberian’s Steakhouse. First we sipped Champagne, paired with oysters and shrimp so big they would make lobsters blush. Everyone mingled until the bubbles had dissipated.  The host then led the way further down into the main cellar, set with a long table for the party. Here we were all able to look at what our dining partners had chosen to bring.  This two tiered room is a glorious cathedral of wine, with every last square inch of wall space adorned with cubbies filled to the brim with the world’s greatest titles.  If you’ve never seen it, it’s definitely worth the visit on your next trip to the Toronto institution.
 
The wines came out in flights each with great contrast of styles and age.
Whites came first and through all the flights the highlight was the ’96 1er cru Butteaux from the master of Chablis, Francois Raveneau.  He makes wines that are so focused you feel like you’re walking on a tightrope negotiating this searing acidity on one side, and pure, concentrated Chardonnay tree fruit and citrus on the other – phenomenal.  Comte Lafon’s ’06 Meursault Clos de la Barre shone, showing restrained power backed by just the right amount of oak.  Also to be noted was the Tawse-Marchand ’09 Corton showing wisdom beyond it’s youth – will be a gem a few years down the road.
 
There were too many reds to recount, but as always in Burgundy the cream rises to the top.  In order of consumption; a ’95 Volnay Taillpieds from Marquis D’Angerville still youthful.  A ’90 Chateau de La Tour Clos de Vougeot still caressing through flexed muscles.  The ’89 DRC Romanee St. Vivant with the ethereal quality that the legendary house is famous for. Two Ruchottes Chambertin from Leroy and Rousseau, the ’85 and ’05 respectively, giving insight into a glorious vineyard a generation apart.  A close friend of mine and I measure wine by the ‘magic’ content in bottles from the Cote D’or which on this particular evening earned it’s name.
 
Our hosts were kind enough to provide us with a magnum of Hermitage from Chave to wash it all down with as well as an ’83 d’Yquem with cheese that made me close my eyes hope that the moment would never end. It was an evening of palette pampering that I won’t soon forget.   JB
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Wines in each flight are listed in order of favourites.

Flight #1

  1. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé  NV
  2. Charlie Burger Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Classé Champagne NV

Flight #2

  1. François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1996
  2. Domaine Servin Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2002
  3. Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005
  4. Vincent Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet 1999 Grand Cru (oxidized)

Flight #3

  1. Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2006
  2. Domaine Matrot Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru 2007
  3. Domaine Roulot Meursault “Les Luchets” 2002
  4. Domaine Latour-Giraud Les Genevrieres, Meursault Premier Cru 2007

Flight #4

  1. Marc Colin et Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2005
  2. Marchand-Tawse Corton Grand Gru 2009
  3. Domaine Dublere Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007

Flight #5

  1. Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Taille Pieds, Volnay Premier Cru 1995
  2. Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny 2002

Flight #6

  1. Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1990
  2. Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2006
  3. Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2001

Flight #7

  1. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 1989
  2. Domaine George Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2000
  3. Merry Edwards Pinot Noir ’30’ Russian River Valley 2003
  4. Domaine Rene Engel Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 1999 (corked)

Flight #8

  1. Domaine Arlaud Aux Combottes, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 1999
  2. Remoissenet Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers 1er Cru 2007

Flight #9

  1. Domaine Leroy Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1985
  2. Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru 2005
  3. Domaine Ponsot Charmes-Chambertin Cuvee des Merles Grand Cru 1996
  4. Champy Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2007
  5. Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1996

Flight #10

  1. Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Premier Cru 2007
  2. Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flight #11

  1. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge (Magnum) 2000

Flight #12

  1. Château d’Yquem 1983

 

 

 

Good to go!

VINTAGES, Wines and Valentines

One sparkling, one white and one red because “I ain’t seen my baby since the night before last.” All three are VINTAGES releases, readily available and shot through the heart.

The Sparkling

LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE D’IVOIRE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS (48801, $18.95) is Crémant de Bourgogne as understudy but it rolls out all the necessary attributes (yeast, toast, brioche) of quality méthode champenoise for a driblet of damage.  Discussing the two side by side is admittedly like comparing apples to oranges yet this Blanc de Blancs sniffs les deux. It should be noted that Paul and Stevie both appeared at the Grammy’s last night (though not together). The Perle D’ivoire goes together with strawberries “in perfect harmony.”   mjg 90

Find it at VINTAGES

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The White

ROSEWOOD NATALIE’S SÜSSRESERVE RIESLING 2009 (258806, $14.95) is down $3 from the ’08, magnetic and resonant of a winemaker’s passion. Crafted with the Deutsches technique of adding reserved, unfermented Riesling juice (must) back before bottling. Candy-coated (technically off-dry), bushy-tailed, brimming with many scents citrus, backed up by a grove of apples and peaches. Pour this and you just might fish your wish.  mjg 88

Find it at VINTAGES

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Red

SISTER’S RUN SHIRAZ 2009 (222018, $15.95) screams value from big, bruising Barossa. A family run, higher altitude SV (Cavalry Hill) and a subsidiary of the Dandelion commonwealth. Coddled like a quail’s egg by Canadian critics, including Stimmel (90) who notes “…smoky charcoal, mint, cedar and mocha aromas are suffusive.” Grape Guy MP’s (****+) rating eschews restraint and he gushes “big fruit, big flavour, big fun.” Pop and Pour out of Alberta (where the Sister is $20) notes “allspice, dried meat and gingerbread.” NA in the US but in the UK WOW says this “rich and powerful wine wears its 14% alcohol on its sleeve.” Twisted maybe, but “what do you want to do with your life? I wanna rock!”  mjg 88

Find it at VINTAGES

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

More Picks from VINTAGES CLASSICS, FEBRUARY 2012

Here a first. An endorsement of not only two wines by the same producer, but two Mâconnais. Get past the sexual innuendo of the appellation and give papa JJ Vincent some sugar. These are Chards of explosive character; wood prominent but not dominant, richly textured, party on the buds. Secret stashers consider Pouilly-Fuissé a hidden gem. According to Steven Spurrier, Château Fuissé’s Les Combettes, Les Brulés and Le Clos “are likely to be the first vineyards in the appellation to be classified Premier Cru.” Vincent’s wines do not vacillate, speak the truth and receive attention without ever asking for it. Some non-fiction for your reading pleasure:

http://simplywines.wordpress.com/2011/01/22/chateau-fuisse/

CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ LES BRULÉS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (259820, $49) from the south facing ‘burnt’ slope is crème de la crème, fraîche et caramel. Consensus converges on 2013 but contemporary oak attack to me suggests cellaring for longer than what you might read. WS (92), WE (92), BH (91), CT’s (91), RJ (90) and Decanter (****, 16.5) are in the know.

Fuisee Brules 2009

CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (947721, $54) is the showier of the two. Extroverted, flirty, ready to dance. My note: The meritorious Mâconnais, stupid good with mounds of melon, pear and honey. A huge step up from the already impressive ’09 taxi squad teammates. Chards of diamond acidity cut through the nectarous textures and flavours. Streaks of genius.  mjg 92

Fuisse Viellies 2009

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to Go!