PHOTO: SHOCK, FOTOLIA.COM
Anyone who has dared to venture into wine stores within a week of Christmas knows that the pickings accelerate quickly from slim to none.
Related – VINTAGES, December 8th, 2012 release
Sure, January will bring new releases, but a paucity of good value wine at any time, let alone late December is tantamount to scandal. Staring forlornly into barren cubicles and languishing in long cash-out lines is no way to go through the holiday season. There will be no excuse for getting caught having to serve sickly-sweet, mass-produced plonk to hopeful party guests. As my friend Bob repeatedly reminds me, “it’s not an option.”
The plenitude on wine shelves over the next four days will make the other 361 pale by comparison. Get out there and stock up on the year’s last wine offer. Here are eight big time values to seek out from the final December release of 2012.
Eight big time value wines
The grape: Viognier
The history: Hails from the Northern Rhône in the wines of Condrieu
The lowdown: Alamos is the high-altitude, value offspring line from Argentina’s Laura (@MalbecLife) Catena
The food match: Mahi-Mahi with Blood Orange, Avocado, and Red Onion Salsa
Alamos Viognier 2011 (507830, $13.95) is pretty fly for a white guy. I get Acacia blossom, nectarine and sweet cream. A Viognier to fool as to its origin and sure it sets out to “do that brand new thing” but this is no wannabe. Huge value from winemaker Felipe Stahlschmidt and brand manager Jimena Turner. Pleased to tout the value for both its phrenic and copacetic manner. 87
The grape: Grüner Veltliner
The history: White Austrian varietal known for its crisp, bright character
The lowdown: One of the most magnetic white wine producers anywhere
The food match: Potato Rösti, horseradish cream
Domaene Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 2011 (965368, $13.95) is bar none, the best value in its class. Buffet of exotics; mandarin orange, longan, rambutan. Simmering acidity, no bitter nut, pith or endgame. Not necessarily long, yet satisfying . 88
The grapes: Xarello and Riesling
The history: Traditional varietal from Catalonia, often used in the production of Cava
The lowdown: Blended with 15% Riesling, the Xarello comes alive
The food match: Seared and Slow Roasted Salmon, crumbled chorizo, salsa verde drizzle
Terraprima White 2011 (303552, $17.95) shows off a pastel but vivid colour, sidled by scents of spring almond tree blossom and autumn arbequina olive. Riesling injection adds more verve in the mouth, indicated by lemon and lime concentrate. Will work all seasons for a Penedes siesta chill. 88
The grape: Chenin Blanc
The history: From dry to sweet, the Loire’s expression of Chenin seems limitless
The lowdown: This one leans far left, sapless, not socialist
The food match: Roasted Kabocha Squash Soup, caramelized apple, spiced pumpkin seeds
Marc Brédif Vouvray 2010 (685362, $19.95) perches high atop a parched, molecular hilltop. Bread starter nip promises stuffed pastry filled with friable, early harvest apples. Wonderful, classic and dehumidified Vouvray. 91
The grapes: Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera
The history: Salice Salentino tends sun-dried, caramelized and sometimes even burnt, but in a good way
The lowdown: Puglia has turned Salice Salentino into an international sensation
The food match: Smoked and Braised Beef Short Rib, dried fruit, carrots, thyme
Leone De Castris Maiana Salice Salentino 2009 (717959, $13.95) is full-bodied like its brethren and definitive of the dark-skinned Negroamaro. Appasimento-like raisin, Amarone quality, peppered by anise and finishing near oxy by sun-ripened tomato, black plums and stewed prunes. If long and slow braised beef convinces it to relax, it will work just fine. 87
The grape: Gamay
The history: From the vineyard of Les Vins Aujoux in the Côte Du Py
The lowdown: Cru Beaujolais, especially from Morgon, can be exhilarating stuff
The food match: Gamay Risotto, candy beets, white truffle oil
Jacques Depagneux Côte De Py Morgon 2011 (299925, $18.95) parlays Gamay in the prettiest purple package. Violaceous, like young and approachable Nebbiolo, or even Montsant. Hawkish and snappy in its play calling with a volcanic, mineral feel that elevates its game. “I’m glad I know you” Beaujolais, from it’s a wonderful life of Py. 89
The grape: Pinot Noir
The history: Unheralded (until now) winemaker Paul Battilana does his best Beaune impression
The history: Burgundy emerges as a limestone-influenced, light-bodied red in Prince Edward County
The food match: Turkey and Cranberry Pie with Sweet Potato Crust
Casa-Dea Pinot Noir 2009 (296210, $19.95) has won me over two years in a row as a top value Pinot Noir, not just in PEC, but in Ontario. Plush ruby robe, expertly extracted though it is so light on its feet. Less earth and clay than cousin Rosehall but this smells exactly as Pinot should. There is a minor note of fromagerie so consider pairing it so. 89
The Splurge
The grape: Petite Sirah
The history: Not to be confused with Syrah, this is the French varietal Durif
The lowdown: There is nothing remotely petite about this grape or this wine. Durif=énorme
The food match: Grilled Venison Loin, blackberry compote
Trentadue La Storia Petite Sirah 2010 (291047, $23.95) is massively concentrated out of the Alexander Valley in Sonoma County, as if it were packed with five centuries of the Italian American experience. Manages 14.9% alcohol with George Bailey-esque, heady grace. Tasted blind I commented, “if this is under $30 it’s an outrageous deal.” “Well whaddya know about that!!!. ” 92
Good to go!
Godello 