Category Archives: Languedoc

Solar flares and justice for wine

canada.com

While the move is just a baby step towards free wine trade in this country, the federal government is stepping away from the inter-provincial wine business. The repeal of a 1928 Prohibition law is hardly earth shattering news but it is a positive gesture and an ideological note aimed at the provinces to consider a similar and progressive course.

Shout out to the Henderson sisters, Courtney and Erin, for voicing their opinion, minus the grating, wine geek whine, concerning the passing of Bill C-311. Without this all important first chess move there is no future on the subject. The provincial monopolies are adamant that direct shipping of wine across borders will remove up to $300 million per year from the tax coffers. The law reform now opens the debate to prove that theory wrong.
The law allows you to order a firearm and have it shipped to your door, by courier. That’s what Sandra Oldfield of British Columbia’s Tinhorn Creek Winery did. Not a prosecutable offence! Cautiously optimistic kudos goes to an Ontario commission currently addressing wine shipping regulations. Arthur Kirkland would note “at this point, I would just like to say that what this committee is doing in theory is highly commendable. However, in practice, it sucks.” Arthur, let’s hope you’re wrong.
Now I turn my attention to the sun which continues to unleash its power upon the earth in the form of solar flares. Sun-kissed wine values continue to flourish at price points affordable to all.
The grapes: Carignan, Grenache and Syrah

The history: From the largest Appellation d’origine contrôlée in Languedoc-Roussilon

The lowdown: A microcosmic tour of southern France in a single bottle of wine

The food match: Fresh ground brisket, flat-iron and chuck sliders with cheddar, bacon and tomato jam

Chateau Ollieux Romanis Cuvée Classique Corbières 2009 (VINTAGES 281162, $15.95, SAQ 10507163, $17.65) betters le nez de Cyrano by a Pinnochio. Might just be the wood talking but the depth and girth is uncanny. Carignan, a.k.a., the hunchback of red French grapes, carries the load. It’s beauty is unearthed by the royalty of 30% Grenache (acidity) and 30% Syrah (tannin). A bouquet garni wafts through the Romanis cathedral and the orchestra’s A Day in the Life note holds on for the bows. Midi IVR* at its finest.  89

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Oak plays no role. Think rocks, minerals and sharp fruit instead of butter and toast

The lowdown: If it’s not Premier Cru, Chablis is often disappointing. Geoffroy makes good from non-classified, less than estimable vineyard fruit

The food match:

Alain Geoffroy Domaine Le Verger Chablis 2010 (181289, $18.95) built of a “cold steel rail” is not accidentally, tragically on the verge of maximum dryness. Three pistols strong and searing Burgundy, mouth-puckering with green apple chalk.  Brings “on the brand new renaissance” so I wish you were here. Hip IVR* performance, vintage in, vintage out.  89

The grape: Sangiovese

The history: Producer of pedigree remembers its past but has a foot firmly cemented in the present

The lowdown: The Poliziano VNM had been closer to the $30 mark since 2004. This is a great vintage IMHO. Don’t miss it.

The food match: A great steak (Porterhouse or Rib-Eye) on the BBQ with Kosher salt, pepper and extra-virgin olive oil.

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2007 (988055, $25.95) should never be ignored. Does VNM get any better than this? Circumnavigates the Tuscan code, both ancient and modern. Assigns meaning to anagogic red fruit and flashes like a solar flare. Puzzling paradox of transparency and rich tinct. Chianina Bovi strength will need aeration or five plus years to relax.  90

The Splurge Wines

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Ed Spragia was the winemaker at Beringer. His personal Chardonnay is biscuitous but good CVR**

The lowdown: This release adds an emphatic notch on the side of fair pricing

The food match: Steamed P.E.I. Lobsters and a twice-baked potato

Sbragia Home Ranch Chardonnay 2009 (52720, $34.95) from on the range in the Dry Creek Valley, “where seldom is heard a disparaging word.” Water-buffalo type comes out to play with buttered corn and elegant oak integration as the muted smell of smoked casks. A nearly $10 price reduction stares down in the face of the California price-fixing, conspiracy theorists.  89

The grape: Pinot Noir

The history: Transplanted Burgundian style shows most true to form in Oregon’s Willamette Valley

The lowdown: This is Lemelson’s most elegant bottling

The food match: Braised, plum glazed and crispy roasted pork bellies

Lemelson Thea’s Selection Pinot Noir 2009 (278721, $36.95) is a beautifully balanced effort. Coal smoke, meed, griottes and comestible tree fruit fragrance. Thyme and sage rubbed through fingers.  Sweet, resinous low country heartbreak.  90

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: old world reds

Mario Laporta, AFP/Getty Images

Tasting through many wines in a short time requires focus. While it would not be considered stressful or difficult, the test is something I would wish for all my friends to try. Steadfast loyalty in regard of wine everywhere is my impetus behind these  ‘Old World’ tasting notes, that is, from Europe.

Related – More notes from the VINTAGES June 23, 2012 release

With each passing vintage, the line blurs between old and new world as modern techniques are employed by the most traditional of producers. Still we see the vintners from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany continuing to share a common sentiment. Great wine is made in the vineyard.

France

Domaine De Champ De Cour Moulin-à-Vent 2010 (430876, $17.95) plays more like a champ than the national footballers. Mommesin’s Beaujolais is dabbed with pretty smells, especially ripe cherries. Soft tosses junk but gets them dancing and swinging. What pure Gamay the varietal is all about.  88

Château Des Capucins 2009 (279992, $19.95) of Bordeaux’s Right Bank in Lalande de Pomerol is rigged with heavy Brettanomyces and wet, leathery sails. Strong, sturdy and inky like Syrah from the Languedoc. Jury is out on this one.  NR

Château Tronquoy-Lalande 2004 (279984, $29.95) offers a reasonable look at Left Bank St-Estephe nearly ten years on. Similar nosing characteristic like the Capucins at first but here it’s just a regular kind of funk. A boondoggle of fresh energy abounds, with earth and spice. Bordeaux forest for the leaves.  Lovely CVR** potential.  89

Château De Lancyre Coste D’aleyrac 2010 (74765, $19.95) opens distinctively Syrah in both violaceous aura and hue. Considered to be of the Languedoc, the tone and redolent cherry-red Grenache also speaks directly of Pic Saint Loup, the true, though not yet defined appellation. Could drink this all the time.  90

Château De Nages JT Costières de Nîmes 2009 (736876, $21.95) is mostly Syrah with a small percentage of Mourvèdre. A hillock covered in blueberries entices a mellow ascent but the nightshade is pulled over the palate by a capsicum stinger. Quality Southern Rhône that needs two years minimum to settle in.  89

Le Gravillas Sablet 2010 (78790, $14.95) does simple Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages for the masses. Crystalized berries in every way. Dialed in.  86

Château Vincens Cuvée Prestige 2009 (272427, $14.95) from Malbec’s home of Cahors remains true to the region’s ‘black’ wine effect. Then a blueberry molasses modern take plays havoc on extraction’s oldest trick in the book. A huge thwack of tannin grips from behind. A suspendable offence by such an inexpensive Malbec.  85

Germany

Schloss Reinhartshausen Dry Pinot Noir 2007 (40543, $15.95) always intrigues and only Rheingau Pinot noses like this. Mild mushroom meets blanched almond. Surprising verve in balance and length.  87

Italy

Umberto Cesari Sangiovese Di Romagna Riserva 2008 (33399, $18.95) from Emilia-Romagna in Northern Italy is meaty, musty and frankly smells like “un pezzo di merda.” Like Oeste’s Pêra Rocha dropped from the tree and ready for baby sauce.  Or the near disastrous effort of Sunday’s national Football team.  84

Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2009 (275859, $22.95) barks more black dog and caws less crow in opposition to the mascot on the appellation’s logo. Heavy metal packaging and tenebrous complexion, “with eyes that shine burnin’ red.” A Zeppelin of heavy lead on the edge of Sangiovese’s limits. More IGT than Chianti really and sensory overload of deliciousness if you like the modern style.  89

Lamole Di Lamole Vignetto Campolungo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (231241, $36.95) blows past the 27 month ageing requirement for CC Riserva and thankfully so. The massive fruit and tannin interchange needs the oak. This CCR ventures up around the bend and all over the map. “You can ponder perpetual motion” like this Campolungo, moving backwards and forwards. Bold and beautiful, the Lamole is complex and bloody coagulating Sangiovese.  90

Le Sughere Di Frassinello 2009 (25700, $29.95) the modish Sangioveto dominated blend from Tuscany’s coastal Maremma is an encrusted, purgative Etruscan. Saucy, sugary pomegranate, crushed tomato concentrate and acidic ossein.  90

Lionello Marchesi Coldisole Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (281238, $41.95) seems muffled, not unlike this house’s very good ’97 seemed in 2003. Currently medium in body with an oil slick of resinous fruit working towards a bright future.  89

Mastrojanni San Pio 2008 (944603, $30.95) is a not so common Cabernet-based Montalcino blend with 20% local Brunello grapes to keep it real. There is a citrus drive and berry spice but really nothing specifically Tuscan about it. The taxi is speeding through the piazza but the wheels are in neutral.  87

Le Ragose Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007 (991984, $18.95) quite convincingly sticks Veneto at the centre of a bulls-eye. Nuts and chocolate Ragusa nougat, ox suet and potpurri polish.  87

Monte Zovo Sa’Solin Ripasso Valpoliccella 2009 (650713, $17.95) begins with Brett, airs out and then simplifies for red sauce pasta. Misses the mineral boat of Le Ragose.  85

Lebanon

Cave Kouroum Petit Noir 2007 (260141, $14.95) from the Bekaa Valley intimates Pinot Noir in a Kiwi sort of way. Soft, easy going, “mafi mushkila” to be charmed by its flavours.  86

Musar Jeune 2009 (178079, $17.95) from the esteemed producer and their entry-level juice. Unfortunately a corked bottle.  NR

Portugal

Quinta Do Quetzal Reserva 2007 (277376, $27.95) out of Alentejo will, I’m hoping, take it on the cheek or chin when “faced with a dodo’s conundrum.” That I might consider this blind to be an Australian Shiraz/Cabernet blend or South African Pinotage means the fake Chinese rubber plant quotient in uncommonly high. Botox treated plastica of the head and from knee to ankle.  86

Sogrape Reserva Douro 2008 (335208, $17.95) works Portugal’s most famous locale with clean, crisp, modern drive. The vanilla oak is obvious along with cedar mulch and savoury, floral scents. Medium heft, solid, continental and conventional.  87

Spain

Barón de Magaña 2007 (280552, $17.95) was corked.

Bodegas Olarra Cerro Añon Gran Reserva 2004 (190827, $24.95) made of 80% Tempranillo with smatterings of Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Regnant for today’s Rioja movement. An ampelographer might be required to place the Millerized Olarra but no matter. This Gran Reserva is to Rioja what resolved, mellifluent Chianti Classico Reserva is to Tuscany. Easy on the eyes, nose, mouth and throat.  88

Langa Tradicion Centenaria Garnacha 2008 (194795, $13.95) is a repeat performance. Like the 2007 from Calatayud, the two Garnachas act out a simple, sugary and leavened oak fruit play to a standing “O.”  86

Ramón Bilbao Reserva 2005 (281097, $17.00)  does Rioja with IVR* spirit. Hewn, leathery texture and a perfume river of aromatics leading to a petal strewn pagoda’s steps. Musk of melon and ox lingers on the lawn. Subtle and captivating.  88

Torres Gran Segre De Toro Reserva 2008 (315648, $15.95) of Catalunya is a hircine of horse’s hooves. Mocha java oaks its way into the stable of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah.  86

Tossals Junior 2006 (278135, $18.95) emblematizes the new Montsant. One third Carinena is grippy and laborious to chew through at present. A second third lavender and raspberry Garnacha are more welcoming but it’s the last third that does the real wooing. Cabernet Sauvignon on loan from Bordeaux joins near-sectarian Tempranillo to win over fans. Soporific and yet the blend is a tough nut to crack.  87

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

VINE DIRT – RECENT TASTINGS

A heterodoxical winter. No blanket of white stuff.  To that inclination I travel against the grain for an encounter with three smoking pearls off the list at Barque.

 

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO VIOGNIER ‘LA VIOLETTE’ 2010 ($18.25) shows great floral intensity for a Vin de Pays d’Oc.  Condrieu intuition coaxes spiced nuts and yerba apricot tea from grapes grown in Languedoc. I waver not from the joy in its necessity, even as it descends a wafer thin minty slope to peter out. Certainly prettier than a Flyer’s coach.  88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FIELDING ESTATE CHARDONNAY UNOAKED 2008 ($13.95) is squeaky clean and cheap so “my money flows like wine.” The band plays Dixie while I eat too much chicken, the food and wine marching saintly, effortlessly in. More Mutsu than Meyer, more alfalfa than clover.  A golden, herbal remedy.  87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO 2010 ($19.95) is spring in winter, perennial in its success, consistent and always sharp in attack. Garganega that is oddly mindful of lemon paraffin wax tubes from the Wiz having gone to college in the Loire and now living as a mature adult in the Veneto. Opiate anaesthetic on the finish renders teeth and gums numb and void.  89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!