Tag Archives: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Triassic Tasting at Pangaea

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

 April 24, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/27/triassic-tasting-at-pangaea/

Pangaea Restaurant, 1221 Bay Street, (416) 920-2323

Chef du Cuisine: Derek Bendig, Sommelier and Manager: Benjamin Hardy

 

The group of seven. Sorry. Not THE Group of Seven. This group of seven. Our new format is really taking shape. We no longer each bring wine from cellar to share. Now one leader, one cellar, nine wines. Plenty to share with Mr.’s Hardy, Bendig and crew. Seamless sally forth through five courses. Godspeed to Pangaea for an all out effort in syncopated rhythm. This tasting the high water mark (of the new era) to date, with no disrespect to what came before, but the senescence has reached the early stages of maturity. Laud and applaud to AZ for coordinating food and wine synergy. A coup de foudre from the get go.  

Nine Wine Night

Nine Wine Night

 

Amuse Bouche, radish ‘ravioli’ stuffed with chèvre, tomato, basil

Chef’s Creek (Fanny’s Bay, Vancouver Island) Oysters, on the half shell, horseradish, lemon, shallot mignonette

  1. Peninsula Ridge Fumé Blanc 2008 wants to be 1er Cru Chablis in my universe but sweats heat and spice, “green cardamom pod and roasted salsify,” adds AM. Nutty lemon custard and did someone say Boxwood? Not quite Sauvignon Blanc but PR brings out enough mineral to do this style proud up on the Bench.  88
  2. Domaine De Congy Cuvée Les Galfins Pouilly Fumé 2009 tasted blind is undoubtedly old world but the lack of grass and oak leads me to Muscadet. Wrong! Oh the marl and fossilized oysters of it all! More Sauvignon Blanc to confront my tasting demons. Solid, if not as cursive as the PR.  87

 

Ahi Tuna Tataki, seared tuna, blood orange and fennel salad, avocado pureé

  1. See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV strikes a match from the outset and never wavers. The other MG senses After Eights but for me that possibility is smothered by a leesy, cheesy lard maigre et fromage. Gismondi calls this BC bubbly “a Champagne ringer.” Not so much. Flat finish so s’ya later, “s’alright ma’, i’m only sighing.” Just tasting.  85

 

Intermezzo, grapefruit and tarragon flavoured ice

 

Quebec Duck Breast, pan-roasted, seasonal vegetables, potato rösti, game jus

  1. Fontanabianca Barbaresco Sori Burdin 2004 the blessed and confounded queen Nebbiolo is the totipotent master of the moment. Italianate yet without animale, rosy cheeked and impossibly elegant, it still manages to anesthetize the mouth. So pretty it hurts. Along with the Sori Paitin, easily the best value in Barbaresco. On this night my allegiance is to the queen.  92
  2. Renatto Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2004 of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C.  91
  3. D’arenberg Ironstone Pressings 2001 holds the title of GSM pop star of the Mclaren Vale. Eponymous iron filings and pressed fruit roll up. A mixed bag of Grenache, Syrah and Mataro, the IP’s warm, berry and balsamwood address is veiled by a touch of oxidation. “Stinky feet” corrects AM. Good integration of fruit, acidity and tannin present proper balance.  90
  4. Mas Doix Salanques 2006 is a revelation. A Pegau-esque perfume aux gasseuse leans Rhône but an amazing (65%) Garnacha sweetness veers Priorat. Iodine (Syrah and Carignan) of black slate soil, tar, smoked meat and bacon. A Parker and Galloni thesaurus of descriptors must be bequeathed on this candied (Merlot) wine loaded with acidity in magnums.  CVR** WOTN.  93

 

House Made Cheeses, goat camembert, blue haze, cloth bound cheddar, truffle tomme

  1. Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1998 would be my wine of choice walking a boulder strewn vineyard on a misty morning in the Southern Rhône. Expressions are hurled around the table, “candified Pinot nose” and “tutti frutti.” For Beaucastel? I can’t believe the tripartite fruit freshness, ambient funk immersion and pencil lead sharpness. This ’98 is “light as a feather, heavy as lead.” The Beaucastel will brighten up your tomorrow. WOTN  96
  2. Tablas Creek Espit de Beaucastel 2008 the worthy adversary is just a dude from California. A honey pot of stewed prunes and “Seville oranges” notes the quote machine. A sinkhole of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 6% Cunoise, the Esprit does admirable expatriate yeoman’s work and I wouldn’t even think of marking it zero.  88
Tasting Table

Tasting Table

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

 

 

Good to go!

Shinny Video, Sidney Crosby and the NHL Playoffs

April 10, 2012 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/10/shinny-hockey-sidney-crosby-and-the-nhl-playoffs/

 

City permit expires, mercurial ice melts, close of shinny season. Beer break, break from beer. Hockey void temporarily filled if only in a heteroclite dream of narrative embroidery. For one weekend in April a miraculous, synergistic trinity. Enmity gauged exodus out of Pharaoh’s desert, the heavenly ascension and an inexplicable blast out of the pine straw at Augusta National. The Paschal Flame, Burning Bush and Amen Corner of Jesus, Moses and Bubba now in the rear view mirror. Attention diverts to round one of the Stanley Cup Playoffs. The most exciting two weeks in sports television. 

At what twain do Shinny and the NHL meet? Does the amateur Thursday night skater dream of scoring the big goal to send his team to the second round? No. But does he wonder what wine to open when Crosby, Malkin and Fleury face the big bad Philadelphia Flyers on Wednesday night? Mr. Crosby has been accused of the whine and dive and having a little “punk in him.” Meanwhile, watch here as shinny guy goes five-hole on a Pinot and a CdP.

http://youtu.be/oM9EL32yg-4

 

3630 Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County 2007 may just be the Barnyard Wine Company’s last red. Whites only going forward. No mistaking the lackey to Volnay. Medaille, metallica and silica. Enter Pinot Sandman. Turn the page and despite the nettles and bitter herb of oppression gone biblical on the buds, the black cherry fruit is cheery. Strong bones transition firm and fighting towards wizard chess end game checkmate.  87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001 turns water into wine in a presentation of varietal ephemera. The La Crau plateau galets impart a puckish, stony and smokey cinnamon sensation upon the raspberry-scented fruit. Defends its terrior with Vezina and Norris ability despite costing well below the league average. Has a good five years left in its stride.  92

 

 

 

Good to go!

Of Budgets, Bohemian Rhapsody, Intrigue and Curiosity

Saturday March 31, 2012

 

Search the newswires, blogosphere and the world of internet forums and you will sense, as my friend DL would say, a “guttural sadness” and general discontent. Talking here about comments voiced both in response to the Federal Budget and the latest VINTAGES release. The question as to which laid or hatched the bigger egg with Easter around the corner is oft debated and apparently, debatable. Even more current is the news video of a wasted Karaoke specialist in the back of an Alberta Police cruiser belting out Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody. That this and talking dogs on YouTube draw the most interest really tells us that wine and politics remain parochial pursuits. I am actually drawn to the occasion by the March 31st group of wines. Nothing spectacular but several snookered in the curiosity and intrigue sectors.

 

Domaine De La Janasse Côtes Du Rhône 2009 (705228, $15.95) from a house approbate whose Châteauneuf-du-Papes are exchanged for proverbial left nads. Good vintage ad infinitum bleeds currant clabber through this replica CdP in as many ways as can be defined. Matthew Jukes calls it “an essential member of your everyday drinking armoury.” WS (89), Beppi (88), CT’s (88). Berry good IVR* stuff  88

Janasse CdR 2009

 

Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2007 (114777, $17.95) brings it in every way. Spätlese at $18 from a producer paid fealty going back a millennium. Are you kidding me? Just enough late harvest age in its hose to petrol up the tank for a joyride in the here and now. Stimmel (91+) notes “sweet (but balanced)…hedonistic wine for patio sipping.” VanSickle writes “balance of racy mineral-toned acidity.” The Wine Ponce says it best, “…aroma seduces with wildflower honey poured over a wet stone.” At this price six go in the cellar, one IVR* for every year through 2017.  89

Studert Prum WS Spatlese 2007

 

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006(208462, $35.95) gathers CVR** speed with every passing consideration.

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006       

“Amply positive” notes from Franco at Vinowire

http://vinowire.com/2011/02/22/francos-top-picks-brunello-2006/

 

Richard Jennings on Wine (88+)

http://www.rjonwine.com/italian-wine/brunello-di-montalcino/

 

Monica Larner at WE (88)

http://buyingguide.winemag.com/catalog/terre-nere-2006-sangiovese-grosso-brunello-di-montalcino

 

Whine Dharma (96). “Peyton Manning of Brunellos, simply one of the best, most gifted, fiery, tenacious. Manning doesn’t play football, he is football.”

http://winedharma.com/en/dharmag/january-2012/brunello-di-montalcino-2006-draft-great quarterback-and-lot-asian-dishes-everyt

 

Todd B. Alexander’s Italian Wine report (86) from the guy who rates nothing over 90 and scores 85 for Siro Pacenti! “This is a brunello that will clearly shine with the right substantial fare or from a 5 year stint in the cellar.”

http://italianwinereport.com/brunello-di-montalcino-2006-top-notch-but-not-historical/

 

Bruce Sanderson (92) of WS, “complex and flavorful.”

http://www.scribd.com/doc/53472505/Insider-2011-04-20

 

 

Other Wines Of Note:

 

Corte Rive Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (089318, $39.95) RP (93+)

Delaforce Corte Vintage Port 1997 (199695, $38.95) WS (95)

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

A Selection of Halpern’s Rhône Portfolio

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012

One Restaurant at the Hazleton Hotel, 134 Yorkville Avenue

Domaine Du Pegau and Selection Laurance Féraud

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Laurence’ 2006 ($135) “is approachable” says Laurence because she does the ageing here for us. Somehow I still foresee an extended bivouac of hibernation. Though emerging due to four years elévage (double the reservée), this is Grenache running on a treadmill of adrenaline, a bear post gym workout, sweat glands pumping out the musk.  That Pegau perfume, unmistakable, omnipresent. Consistent with the ’05.  94

Pegau CL 2006

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Réservée’ 2009 ($85) sees higher co2 treatment to counterbalance the heat of the vintage. This is “necessary for ageing,” admits Laurence. Here a return to the Pegau of old, perhaps as far back as 1990 but for sure 1998. The perfume can’t be missed, as are notes of phrygana sprouting up through the crevices of boulders. A very traditional CdP, smokey, herbal and spiced on a berry bed of rubies.  93

Cotes du Rhône 2010 ($14) comprises grapes selected by Féraud and succeeds in ’10 because of the high percentage (80%) of Syrah. A purple slew of black cherry fruit mixed with bocage and earth. Well-made despite its negociant pedigree. The purchase of 38 hectares should result in the production of 20,000-25,000 cases of CdR under the auspices of the Pegau label for 2011.  85

Lot 2009 Selectionne Laurence Féraud Plan Pegau ($16) is non-vintage self-promotional branding, once again well-proportioned, if unexciting. It’s really de-classified, quaff material for undefined table wine. I’d drink it all year round at $5 bucks a shot.  84

Domaine de Cristia

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($43) displays less funk and more finesse than most. “Oak is used not to oak,” says winemaker Baptiste Grangeon, “it is used to make the wines open.” A glass of strawberry jam in the morning. High in Grenache because “Syrah was too fat in 2009” adds Grangeon, this is benevolent, ‘resto ready’, lush stuff. Very underrated.  91

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Renaissance’ 2009  ($85) is made from 100-year old vines in sandy soils and aged in 100% new oak. Grenache (60%) and high in Mourvedre (40%) because the latter “worked so well in 2009” says the man. Found to be tight, biting and beastly, but shows signs of a meaty future with thyme on its side.   92

Cristia CdP 'Renaissance' 2009

Cotes du Rhône ‘Les Garrigues Vielles Vignes’ 2010 ($20) personifies old Grenache, as the name would suggest. High toned, ethereal, subaqueous, stygian and complex.  90

Grenache Vielles Vignes 2010 ($17) is an excellent Vin De P’ays, full of red cherries, strawberries and petiole. A well-orchestrated one-grape symphony. 88

Paul Jaboulet Aine

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Cedres’ 2007 ($52) shines purple and blue like a Van Gogh starry night over the Rhône. The colour of heuchera growing out of tanzanite, the ‘cedars’ offers the sensation of chewing on a wooden bat smothered in pine tar and sugary plum pudding. Thumbs want to go two up but the bitumin is in need of a snooze. 88

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Les Jalets’ Blanc 2010 ($29) faces antipodal to a promise of a shaped stone. Ore is subdued in favour of fun, cheery, soft fruit in a flocculent, alabaster frame. Nectarine blossom and fresh shucked peaches and cream corn give way to the finishing purity of Marsanne. 89

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Domaine de Thalabert’ 2007 ($49) with its caper and black pepper infused black cherry cordial cries kush with its powerful, purple crush. 100% Syrah and nothing but Syrah. Defines the appellation. 90

Jaboulet Thalabert CH 2007
Hermitage ‘La Petite Chapelle’ 2007 ($109) hails from six granite hillside vineyards known as ‘Hermitage Hill’ and the ‘Sunshine Slope.’ “Now somewhere in the black mountain hills” there lived a pretty baby composed of 100% Syrah. This little raccoon is warm, fuzzy and ready. Too soft for long life. 89
 
 
Dauvergne-Ranvier
 
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Vin 2010 ($38) is gentle and unpretentious. Higher on botany, quieter in depth of power fruit, but still early in its evolution. A sound composition if quiet on the back beat. 88

Luberon Vin Gourmand 2010 ($13) is the sweetest thing, “blue-eyed boy meets brown eyed-girl.” You two can enjoy life as a bowl of cherries, fresh, light and lithe. 86

St. Joseph Vin Rare ($32) mismatches expressions, sits cumbersome, heavy and noses disjointedly. Dendritic forget-mineral-me-nots burst in vacillating waves and the concentration wavers erratically. 86

Vacqueyras 2009 ($25.95) is restricted, opening with benign notes, sleeping hollowly in mid stride and closing tight in the end. Pithy Kirsch wants to appear but only time will let it act. 87

 

Vignobles Michel Gassier and Les Halos de Jupiter

Halos de Jupiter Cotes du Rhone 2010 ($17.95) is no orphan of the storm. It strides in angelic and sweet talking. Just plain smooth, cream filled and easy to drink. This CdR gives up copious Grenache from a velvet glove, ready to perform miracles.  88

Halos Jupiter CdR 2010

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($67) may currently be more beast than beauty but the concentrated levels of cassis and raspberry cuddle and spoon. Six months in bottle will soften the edges and it too will be a woo monster. Shares a La Crau locale with Vieux-Telegraphe.  89

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Gigondas 2009 ($34) battles harder to win adoration with its sharp lines and deep cutting acidity. Cooling menthol and eucalyptus strays from its homeland to distant heights and locales. There is a permanent drip and dampness here and an odour of mossy rocks. Unconventional.  87

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Vacqueyras 2009 ($30) would champion this flight if only it were priced as a Vacqueyras. The first Halo to show garrigue and spice, it also flaunts ethereal hydrogen, helium, and methane gasses.  A wine of luxury living beyond its means.  88

Michel Gassier ‘Lou Coucardie’ Costieres de Nimes 2007 ($34) speaks volumes in alcohol. Here Kirsch and crunchy raspberries are on steroids. Chewing off both arms may be necessary to get away from the Couc’s bed.  89

Michel Gassier ‘Notre Pais’ Costieres de Nimes 2009 ($19) travels a spice route from Asia Minor to Indonesia. Notes of peppermint tea and Kretek cigarettes are joined by aromatic bitters and dark, nutty ale.  87

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

 

Rat Pack Picks, List of Icons, VINTAGES Classics, February 2012

 

PAUL AUTARD CUVÉE LA CÔTE RONDE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 (221911, $59) arrives en retard and my elation is ushered in by a bard’s prose. Cassis in all its gratifying forms is the critical buzz code. Noticeable oak for CdP, black beauty, decadent filly. The coast is clear for the Côte to cellar for a decade or more. Côte Ronde is a cuvée fellow Rhône winemakers line up to purchase, the wine equivalent to restos local chefs go for grub on days off. JM-WS (95), RP (95), RJ (93), JR-ST (92+), CT’s (93) and RR (94) noting “…not a hard edge to be found. The wine has stunning balance.”

Autard Cote Ronde 2007

BODEGAS SAN ROMÁN 2006 (250985, $49) is the toast of Toro, Mr. T. to me. A $60+ US release that is so freaking CVR** I pity the fool that takes a pass. Displays black, inky and masculine like a Gombe Chimpanzee, tannins thrashing madly. A dictator with a stern warning that no challenge to power will occur for a minimum five to ten. Touted by TM-WS (93) and MS-WE (94) who claims “San Román is once again one of the two or three best wines from Toro.” Iberian conociendo Quentin Sadler of now defunct Catavino calls it “a great wine.” RP (93) and JR-IWC (92) round out the reviews.

San Roman 2006

Another Wine Tasted:

CASTELLO DI AMA, CHIANTI CLASSICO, VIGNETO BELLAVISTA 2007 (163337, $159). Now this is something other. One foot not just in the new world inhabited by the likes of Kosta Browne, but in the future of what Chianti Classico will be. The other sends me back to an August 1995 afternoon in Lecchi, beckoned down a narrow flight of stairs by una signora vecchia and offered a taste of the ’90 Bellavista in Ama’s cluttered enoteca. Lorenza Selasti-Pallanti tells me the woman still pours in that shop and is now 80 years-old. Guess she wasn’t so old in ’95…this ’07 shares an affinity with that ’90, of burgundy plum, earth, spice and smoke. Would like to read its tea leaves in 2025.  mjg 93

Other icons of note:

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM 2007 (99382, $895)

E. GUIGAL EX-VOTO ERMITAGE 2007 (54130, $325)

DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT VIEILLES VIGNES BRAND RIESLING 2007 (271866, $89)

HENRIOT CUVÉE DES ENCHANTELEURS BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1996 (83774, $225)

IL CABERLOT 2007 (167296, 1500 mL, $354)

ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2004 (711440, $399)

QUINTARELLI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2000 (224485, $399) 

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2005 (336388, $499)

ACHAVAL FERRER FINCA BELLA VISTA MALBEC 2008 (178103, $95) 

CATENA ZAPATA NICOLÁS CATENA ZAPATA 2007 (662702, $99)

JONATA LA SANGRE DE JONATA 2007 (220517, $145)

JOSEPH PHELPS INSIGNIA 2007 (737346, 1500 mL, $575)

STAGLIN 25th ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 (716258, $229)

SHAFER HILLSIDE SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 (735712, $279)

Disappointed by the Price Increase:
CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D’ARAGONA PIANROSSO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 (162958, $95)

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to Go!