It has been quite some time since the provincial monopoly has assembled a set of Australian wines as impressive as what will hit shelves tomorrow and through the coming weekend. In fact, it has been years since any gathering from down under has wooed me in ways to make me wax with such vinous adoration.
Australia is blessed with so many wine growing regions and variances of style, far more than most give credit for or will admit to. If, hypothetically speaking, the country as a whole had temporarily lost its way and sense of purpose, if this release is any indication, the ship has been righted with precision and balance. With sound and vision.
Here are six wines to look out for over the next few days and in the VINTAGES stock dwindling weeks to come. Four awesome Aussies, a sparkling gem from the Loire and a piquant white from Austria.
This has a great vineyard (four corners of McLaren Vale) funk to it, along with warm, highly-extracted fruit that is just beginning to raisin and caramelize. Friable from McLaren Flat’s sandy loam, chalky in gravel with pockets of Bay of Biscay, but also dense from Willunga’s heavy clay. This shares an affinity with the Queenston Road’s Creekside Estates Syrah, but here there is more grit, firm tannin and mineral. Formative and serious, it’s just about in its right place. Give it two more years but don’t hesitate after that. Some Rhôneish boy madness too. Tasted May 2014 @
Victoria Shiraz has an (Australian rules) 19th man element, a sense of umami that is unique to the region. I believe it is this ghost player that enables Victorian reds with an ability to age longer and with more grace than many opponents. The ’11 Mathilda is similar yet cooler as compared to the Malakoff, with a savoury toasted edge and less porky, both in weight and in mouth feel. A bit reductive and musty at present, with sweeter and more forgiving tannins, though still older in world outlook and should not be pigeonholed as a fruit bomb. Gotta appreciate the Chapoutier intent. Tasted May 2014 @
The toast in this Victorian charmer comes across in a mild-mannered, spoken word way with a simmering, buttery bass line. The fruit is high but the rhythms are delicate and even-keeled. More white flowers than your average Australian Chardonnay, brighter, with more grace and more beauty. She’s a girl with a short skirt and a long jacket eating angel cake. Still firm towards the back-end with citrus zest and mouth-watering acidity, she’s “fast and thorough and sharp as a tack.” Finishes with a long and persistent held trumpeting line. “Na,na,na,na,na,na.” Tasted May 2014 @PMA_int
Conventional yet anything but commonplace Crémant. Chenin (with help from friends Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc) to drive one athirst with mind-altering high acidity and a nasty temper. Mighty, mighty metallic aromas, bathed in concrete. The palate is coated by a lemon zest skittish and skittle-sweet coquettish play. If this fizz were a music style it would be Ska. The impression that I get is of “a strength most don’t possess,” this Langlois has so much lime and stone. Have a sip and imagine a bass drum’s accent on the 3rd beat of a four-triplet, boss tone phrase. Tasted May 2014 @
A textured and floral Grüner Veltliner, a child of more clay, less stone, more juicy fruit and less gas-driven angles. Really well-judged with a pinch of baby fat but certainly not oily. The concrete tang is endearing, as is the bitter pith tinged but welcoming fruit. Unique and not exactly a style addressed to every palate but it has a long, tingling and lingering finish. Tasted May 2014 @
One of the most polished and finest examples of Cabernet Sauvignon tasted out of Australia in quite some time. I have made the statement before that Coonawarra is the top location for the variety anywhere on the vast continent. The 2010 is rich, lush and expressive of so much bright fruit to nose, so much so you might not need even require a taste for to feel her charms. The 56th vintage of this Coonicon, it is possessive of a solid, dusty structure throughout, consistent and on a fine floral line. Some firm tannins though they are sentimentally sweet. Really fine and at this price this is a case purchase, to open one every year or two for the next twenty. Tasted May 2014 @ #wynnsday
Good to go!