Tag Archives: Grenache

Going Rhône for the dog days of August

With just a shade over two weeks to go before Labour Day, here are seven wines to see you through the last dog days of summer. Who will argue that 2010 is not the Rhône’s vintage of the decade, no matter which way you flip the calendar. Seriously, no trick daddy. Ripeness, rhythm and a profundity of fruit will allow the 2010 Rhônes to age gracefully. “Mo’ punch than your bowl of juice.” Read on for recommendations on five first-rate Rhônes, a local Riesling and the prettiest little Spanish number to “take it to da house.”

as seen on canada.com

The grapes: Garnacha, Carinena and Syrah

The history: Spain’s Montsant region is the pioneer for red blends that coalesce French varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah with indigenous grapes

The lowdown: Purple, sugar, water and complexity. A post-profanity Chris Rock “drink” for grown-ups

The food match: Roast Beef Tenderloin, tempura soft-boiled egg, yukon gold bedaub

Celler Besllum Besllum 2008 (283515, $15.95) of Cubist Picassan, “cut up, Maria,” heavenly body struts its stuff as an enchantress with an alluring Spanish, violaceous visage. A black cherry, carboniferous quartzite Popsicle for Mr. Jones.  “We all want something beautiful.”  90

The grape: Riesling

The history: Calamus is one of only two Niagara wineries in this specific locale and their Rieslings are going to be big someday

The lowdown: Against all odds, more neo-noir Germanic than Niagara is how I would describe Riesling grown on the very young Vinemount Ridge appellation that lies just above and south of the brow of the Niagara Escarpment

The food match: Grilled Portuguese Raballo Fish, good olive oil

Calamus Riesling 2010 (158642, $16.95) is locally grown on shallow east- and south-facing slopes yet acts globally dispatched and advanced. Atypically Niagara, hinting at lemon, lime and citrus but veering more into stone peach territory. Notes of sweet sedge rising from hummocky clay, loam, silt and shale. Late grace of highly perfumed, feathery, non-fermented, tart, residual, grape sweetness, wie Süssreserve?  87

The grapes: Grenache and Syrah

The history: Classic Côtes du Rhône made by Philippe Cambie

The lowdown: This CdR is really focused on texture and mouth feel. Modern and delicious

The food match: Julia Child’s Fricassée de Poulet L’Ancienne

Les Halos de Jupiter Côtes du Rhône 2010 (276956, $17.95) of Cassis and fresh mint has changed only in that the (15%) mouth-meeting Syrah seems to be more vocal in making itself heard. A Monahan monk with good habits.  “Acts like summer and walks like rain.” The Jupiter is consistent with an earlier tasting… no orphan of the storm. It strides in angelic and sweet talking. Just plain smooth, cream filled and easy to drink. This CdR gives up copious Grenache from a velvet glove, ready to perform miracles.  88

The grapes: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre

The history: The appellation of Vacqueyras plays understudy to principals Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The lowdown: When it’s good, Vacqueyras blows Côtes du Rhône away and when it’s only a few dollars more, it’s grand theft vino

The food match: Garlic and Lavender Studded Pork Butt

Domaine Grandy Vacqueyras 2010 (287532, $18.95) has dogs begging from the sidewalk for its boucherie scents of roti de porc et beouf. The Mourvèdre is not shy, brooding over the softer Grenache and inky Syrah all Rihanna, smokey campfire and monstrous-like. The Grandy “tried to be expressive without bein’ aggressive,” but it wasn’t the first time a Vacqueyras was hard to resist.  89

The grape: Sangiovese

The history: Chianti’s greatest gift has yet to sweep across the globe like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah. This too will change

The lowdown: McLaren Vale (pioneered by Coriole) was its first OZ stop and now Barossa, more specifically Mt. Crawford is making a Sangiovese splash

The food match: Ziti, Holy Trinity Ragù and Reggiano Parmesan

Domain Day One Serious Sangiovese 2007 (683243, $21.95) is, as its proprietor Robin Day notes, “savoury, rustic and elegant.” Brick-red like a Sienese piazza, the Day is a bareback rider astride a Palio race horse, a muscle-dense, graceful snow horse and a tough mudder of a cart horse. Five years old and drinking at peak.   90

The Splurges

The grapes: Grenache Blanc, Roussanne

The history:  Can’t recall a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape sold in these parts other than some of the biggest icons (Beaucastel, Vieux-Telegraphe, Beaurenard)

The lowdown: You get everything you pay for and more. Same price as the (2nd wine) Coudoulet de Beaucastel Blanc for the same dough

The food match: Chicken Tagine and Cous Cous

Brotte Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2010 (74203, $29.95) is a veritable museum of Southern Rhône aromas. Bending piperitious lavender and nettles, mighty haughty for Grenache Blanc and chock full of nuts. Rousanne lifts the herbs and spices with blossoms orange and white. CVR** choice to enjoy now and to age five plus years.  90

The grapes: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Vaccarèse, Cinsault and Counoise

The history: Grenache (75+%) dominates this kitchen sink Châteauneuf-du-Pape red of the Southern Rhône

The lowdown: Very few iconic CdP producers offer this kind of quality for the price. La Nerthe, Vieux Lazaret and Beaurenard are in the same league

The food match: Braised Veal Shoulder Sandwich, sharp mustard, wild leek pickle

Bosquet Des Papes Cuvée Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 (726687, $42.95) lives on the elegant side of the street. The 2010 CdP’s are simply stunning and while most have the pedal pressed firmly on modern metal, the BdP is grounded and down to earth. Pretty, purple colour, agrarian attitude, pastoral, mistral moulding. Builds to a crescendo of intensity in flavour, indicating 10 years should be granted to unleash the limits of its power.  90

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Southern France

Southern France. Photo Credit: Travel Blat

Previous posts on the VINTAGES, June 9th release:

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Reds

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Whites and Rosés

VINTAGES June 9, 2012 Release: Six from Chile

Four alternative whites from the Vintages June 9th release

If vineyards were retail stores in a mall, a wine’s cheapness would be directly proportional to its proximity to a food court. Southern France knows little of fast food and its vineyards are stamped with an emblematic sense of place. Add to that an across the board aptitude to craft as art from indigenous fruit and it is clear that quality has never been better.

Domaine Piquemal Tradition 2009 (272419, $15.95) out of the Côtes du Roussillon shines like the sun on purple vetch. A taste of black licorice popsicle dripping into a wooden bowl of raspberries. Taut and firm, looking for roasting meat.  87

Foncalieu Réserve Du Sud Languedoc 2009 (272443, $15.95) is another SGC composition. Jets to black where Syrah is sooty, Grenache gamey and Carignan cumbrous. All tolled and told this is a very big wine for $16. Will get my thumb lost in its plum pudding.  88

Gérard Bertrand Grand Terrior Grenach/Syrah 2009 (147983, $18.95) the languid one of Montpeyroux in Languedoc is certainly more Anita and less Enrique. Still, it fails to ring my bell. There is sour licorice and also low acid-lees sediment. Would work for a disco rendezvous. “Well lay back and relax while I put away the dishes.”  84

Hegarty Chamans No. 2 Grenache/Mourvèdre/Cinsault 2009 (277061, $21.95) of port-like, cassis and orange whip qualities cabs and scats its way onto the stage. The brother John Moucher from Minervois, blue-candy and heavy in style, “a red-hot hoochie coocher.” Some citrus animation keeps it tapping.  88

Mont Tauch Le Tauch Fitou 2009 (272484, $19.95) of chew, chunk and funk seems ancient in style. An acerbic bomb of tannin, alcohol and fruit. All I can say is wow. Bare, bold and beautiful.  88

Château De L’aumerade 2010 (277616, $15.95) ascertains a sunny disposition so colloquially Provence it’s obvious. Rosé scent of strawberry cream and modish in its gastronomic versatility. A locavinous foody.  87

Château de Trignon Gigondas 2006 (681817, $29.95) is old school, weighty, Frank the Tank. Base, brash, fleshy, formidable. The kind of Rhône that kills off brain cells, abandons all reason and goes streaking through the quad. Oh, baby.  91

Domaine Des Fées Côtes Du Rhône 2010 (272450, $14.95) should rightly flash like a nocturnal animal’s eyes, what with the unfiltered Grenache and Syrah raised in concrete on the outskirts of Rhône town. Not so. Elegant, refined and quite pretty actually. A wee wine this fée, gnomish, of peace and fair play.  88

Montirius Le Clos Vacqueyras 2007 (76547, $28.95) the organic one is consistently relevant and creatively prolific, “goin’ as much with the river as not.” The Grenache throws no punches while the Syrah “don’t push the river.” Initially idiosyncratic, the funk abides with a swirl to reveal a licorice and Kirsch liqueur. The wine as sleeping beauty becomes a giant. Soulful vacuum of traditional country meets R & B.  90

Romain Duvernay Vacqueyras 2009 (280966, $24.95) is a dark Vaq, modern, big on extraction. Possesses the least sense of place from these ten. At times seems Tuscan, other times Napa. Minerality and dark berries abound, as do chalky tannins. Time will tell the story but either way, you have to like the concentrated style.  88

Good to go!

A Selection of Halpern’s Rhône Portfolio

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012

One Restaurant at the Hazleton Hotel, 134 Yorkville Avenue

Domaine Du Pegau and Selection Laurance Féraud

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Laurence’ 2006 ($135) “is approachable” says Laurence because she does the ageing here for us. Somehow I still foresee an extended bivouac of hibernation. Though emerging due to four years elévage (double the reservée), this is Grenache running on a treadmill of adrenaline, a bear post gym workout, sweat glands pumping out the musk.  That Pegau perfume, unmistakable, omnipresent. Consistent with the ’05.  94

Pegau CL 2006

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Réservée’ 2009 ($85) sees higher co2 treatment to counterbalance the heat of the vintage. This is “necessary for ageing,” admits Laurence. Here a return to the Pegau of old, perhaps as far back as 1990 but for sure 1998. The perfume can’t be missed, as are notes of phrygana sprouting up through the crevices of boulders. A very traditional CdP, smokey, herbal and spiced on a berry bed of rubies.  93

Cotes du Rhône 2010 ($14) comprises grapes selected by Féraud and succeeds in ’10 because of the high percentage (80%) of Syrah. A purple slew of black cherry fruit mixed with bocage and earth. Well-made despite its negociant pedigree. The purchase of 38 hectares should result in the production of 20,000-25,000 cases of CdR under the auspices of the Pegau label for 2011.  85

Lot 2009 Selectionne Laurence Féraud Plan Pegau ($16) is non-vintage self-promotional branding, once again well-proportioned, if unexciting. It’s really de-classified, quaff material for undefined table wine. I’d drink it all year round at $5 bucks a shot.  84

Domaine de Cristia

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($43) displays less funk and more finesse than most. “Oak is used not to oak,” says winemaker Baptiste Grangeon, “it is used to make the wines open.” A glass of strawberry jam in the morning. High in Grenache because “Syrah was too fat in 2009” adds Grangeon, this is benevolent, ‘resto ready’, lush stuff. Very underrated.  91

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Renaissance’ 2009  ($85) is made from 100-year old vines in sandy soils and aged in 100% new oak. Grenache (60%) and high in Mourvedre (40%) because the latter “worked so well in 2009” says the man. Found to be tight, biting and beastly, but shows signs of a meaty future with thyme on its side.   92

Cristia CdP 'Renaissance' 2009

Cotes du Rhône ‘Les Garrigues Vielles Vignes’ 2010 ($20) personifies old Grenache, as the name would suggest. High toned, ethereal, subaqueous, stygian and complex.  90

Grenache Vielles Vignes 2010 ($17) is an excellent Vin De P’ays, full of red cherries, strawberries and petiole. A well-orchestrated one-grape symphony. 88

Paul Jaboulet Aine

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Cedres’ 2007 ($52) shines purple and blue like a Van Gogh starry night over the Rhône. The colour of heuchera growing out of tanzanite, the ‘cedars’ offers the sensation of chewing on a wooden bat smothered in pine tar and sugary plum pudding. Thumbs want to go two up but the bitumin is in need of a snooze. 88

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Les Jalets’ Blanc 2010 ($29) faces antipodal to a promise of a shaped stone. Ore is subdued in favour of fun, cheery, soft fruit in a flocculent, alabaster frame. Nectarine blossom and fresh shucked peaches and cream corn give way to the finishing purity of Marsanne. 89

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Domaine de Thalabert’ 2007 ($49) with its caper and black pepper infused black cherry cordial cries kush with its powerful, purple crush. 100% Syrah and nothing but Syrah. Defines the appellation. 90

Jaboulet Thalabert CH 2007
Hermitage ‘La Petite Chapelle’ 2007 ($109) hails from six granite hillside vineyards known as ‘Hermitage Hill’ and the ‘Sunshine Slope.’ “Now somewhere in the black mountain hills” there lived a pretty baby composed of 100% Syrah. This little raccoon is warm, fuzzy and ready. Too soft for long life. 89
 
 
Dauvergne-Ranvier
 
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Vin 2010 ($38) is gentle and unpretentious. Higher on botany, quieter in depth of power fruit, but still early in its evolution. A sound composition if quiet on the back beat. 88

Luberon Vin Gourmand 2010 ($13) is the sweetest thing, “blue-eyed boy meets brown eyed-girl.” You two can enjoy life as a bowl of cherries, fresh, light and lithe. 86

St. Joseph Vin Rare ($32) mismatches expressions, sits cumbersome, heavy and noses disjointedly. Dendritic forget-mineral-me-nots burst in vacillating waves and the concentration wavers erratically. 86

Vacqueyras 2009 ($25.95) is restricted, opening with benign notes, sleeping hollowly in mid stride and closing tight in the end. Pithy Kirsch wants to appear but only time will let it act. 87

 

Vignobles Michel Gassier and Les Halos de Jupiter

Halos de Jupiter Cotes du Rhone 2010 ($17.95) is no orphan of the storm. It strides in angelic and sweet talking. Just plain smooth, cream filled and easy to drink. This CdR gives up copious Grenache from a velvet glove, ready to perform miracles.  88

Halos Jupiter CdR 2010

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($67) may currently be more beast than beauty but the concentrated levels of cassis and raspberry cuddle and spoon. Six months in bottle will soften the edges and it too will be a woo monster. Shares a La Crau locale with Vieux-Telegraphe.  89

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Gigondas 2009 ($34) battles harder to win adoration with its sharp lines and deep cutting acidity. Cooling menthol and eucalyptus strays from its homeland to distant heights and locales. There is a permanent drip and dampness here and an odour of mossy rocks. Unconventional.  87

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Vacqueyras 2009 ($30) would champion this flight if only it were priced as a Vacqueyras. The first Halo to show garrigue and spice, it also flaunts ethereal hydrogen, helium, and methane gasses.  A wine of luxury living beyond its means.  88

Michel Gassier ‘Lou Coucardie’ Costieres de Nimes 2007 ($34) speaks volumes in alcohol. Here Kirsch and crunchy raspberries are on steroids. Chewing off both arms may be necessary to get away from the Couc’s bed.  89

Michel Gassier ‘Notre Pais’ Costieres de Nimes 2009 ($19) travels a spice route from Asia Minor to Indonesia. Notes of peppermint tea and Kretek cigarettes are joined by aromatic bitters and dark, nutty ale.  87

 

 

 

 

Good to go!