On May 26th, 2025 Godello was honoured and indeed privileged to act as messenger to present the Vino Nobile wines of Tuscany’s Montepulciano to a full house at Toronto’s Aria Ristorante. A Nobile event of this scope is a big deal and it’s important to mention the people in Montepulciano who were largely responsible for making this tasting happen.

That would be the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano President Andrea Rossi and Silvia Loriga who is the Communication and Event Manager. Anyone who knows her is quite aware of just how much she does for Montepulciano. We were all overjoyed that Andrea and Sylvia flew in from Italy to be here with us on that day. Their tireless contributions have played a large part in the evolution we have been seeing from the Vino Nobile over these last 10 years.

Godello’s most recent trip to Montepulciano was just this past February when the weather was much fresher and accommodating than it has been here in Ontario as of late. After one of the tasting days he stepped out from Enoliteca and Consortium headquarters in the Fortezza di Montepulciano to take in the sunshine in the main square. Even though he’d walked the Piazza many times it’s just something you do because these are the moments captured that remind us just how special a place like Montepulciano really is.

Godello’s personal history with the wines and the village of Montepulciano date back 38 years. In 1987 he was a student at the University of Siena and visited the area as part of his studies, returning again in 1990 and 1995. It was 30 years after that first connection was forged before he returned once again, this time during the February Anteprima of 2017. That edition was a special one because the powers that be at the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano thought to amass ten wines spanning four decades, pour and present them as a 50 year retrospective Montepulciano masterclass, launching with the Contucci 1967. The tasting was more than a stroke of regional genius. It was both a major risk to take and a gift of great generosity. There was no way of knowing how those early wines of DOC origin would show, or if in fact that any life would still be left in them.

Related – 50 years of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

While some examples expressed themselves with more spirit and vitality than others, any doubt cast on the structure of the Montepulciano sangiovese had been vehemently cast aside. At the time it was still fashionable to qualify the wines as prugnolo gentile but today we are comfortable to say sangiovese as an essential varietal distinction that encompasses the many clonal variations used. Sangiovese is the beating heart of Vino Nobile and by now well beyond reproach.

That event celebrated 50 years but the territory’s history obviously goes back much further. “The oldest documented reference to the wine of Montepulciano is from 789 in which the cleric Arnipert offered the church of San Silvestro or San Salvatore at Lanciniano on Monte Amiata a plot of land cultivated with vineyards in the estate of the castle of Policiano. Later, Repetti mentions a document in 1350 (in his “Historical and Geographical dictionary of Tuscany”) which drew up the terms for trade and exportation of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.”

“The Sixties brought a reawakening in winegrowing geared principally towards the production of Vino Nobile rather than Chianti. State and EU funds used by the wineries to convert their vineyards into conformity with the requirements of the DOC (1966), enabled new wineries to enter the market. Recognition of DOCG status came in 1980 and Vino Nobile began a new life.”

Back in 2017 in advance of the 50-year seminar the Annata 2014 and Riserva 2013 vintages were presented. The challenge of that time in history’s growing seasons showed the fortitude and persistence of Montepulciano’s producers. You can throw a difficult set of weather patterns at the Vino Nobile but you can’t break their spirit. The ’14s were different, that much is clear, but more than enough quality, firm grip and structure was available to send these wines well into the next decade. Look for ‘13s and ‘14s now – you will be surprised by their longevity. For the most part the ‘14s were a grounded bunch, the 2013 Riserva more of an elegant crew and as representatives of the multiplicity of sangiovese they are classic snowflakes, each different, as sangiovese always are. They are also wines that do not swing their arms, an indication of a secretiveness of character. Which smarted into contradiction a connection to the ten Vino Nobile wines in that 50 year study. It explained how exciting it was to spend time with them in 2017. This to say to all of you how special it will be to spend time with the wines you have in front of you today. And also looking 10-15 years forward. Even more so because the quality and diversity of Vino Nobile sangiovese have never been greater.

Contucci’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ’67 was produced during a significant year in world history. The first heart transplant, the Six-Day War, the Monterey Pop Festival, The World Exposition in Montreal, The first Super Bowl and the release of the Beatles’ Sgt. Peppers Lonely Heart Club Band. It was also the year Celtic beat Internazionale in the European Cup Final. Contucci’s Vino Nobile is from a time when there were maximum seven commercially organized producers in Montepulciano and only the second vintage as a denominational wine.

About the Boscarelli 1982 Godello wrote “The Boscarelli acts like a much younger Nobile, from an exceptional vintage and a producer way ahead of its time. The key is to decide which side of the evolutionary fence we’re on, closer to that 1967 from Contucci or to what is happening today. This may actually be the turning point for Vino Nobile because it really has one foot entrenched in each world.”

The Pieve

The Pieve Project marks a new era for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as a new classification system within the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

designed to emphasize terroir and regional identity.

This photogralh was taken in February while the President was conducting an on camera interview. It’s still worth wondering if the post production crew edited out Godello’s “mi scusi dottore. Posso?”

Let’s lay out what the Pieve Project is all about:

– Why and how Pieve Project was developed

– The rules of Pieve Production

– The aim and ambitions of the Producers and Appellation

– The History of the Area

– The Geological Landscape

– The Evolution of Wine Expression across the different sub-zones

– The Future of Communicating the Pieve Project.

The Pieve initiative aligns Vino Nobile with other terroir-driven classifications like Chianti Classico UGAs, Barolo MGAs and Burgundy climats. This is really worth talking about. Yes it is true that the Pieve resembles these initiatives pursued by other denominations but for Vino Nobile the connection to heritage and religious history is undeniably strong. It also takes the most important aspects of each of those other three distinctions and combines them to create a strong and particular ownership for Montepulciano. In Italian we would say “proprio.” As with the Chianti Classico UGAs the Pieve develop strong inter-personal relationships between like-minded producers making wines form estate vineyards in close proximity to one another. Like the Barolo MGAs the whole of the territory is defined by two distinct terroirs with a line drawn between them. We will touch upon that in a moment. And like Burgundy’s Climats the lineage travels through geography-geology-topography-landscape-position-relief-aspect-exposure-slant-elevation-slope-soil-vegetation-weather-microclimate-humankind-heritage-history-tradition-knowhow and temperament. It all adds up to Pieve. In Burgundy each Climat is a place with its own microclimate and specific geological conditions which have been carefully marked out and named many centuries ago. But Climat must include the human interaction with the place. Each has its own story, produces wines with a distinct character and maintains its place in the hierarchy of crus. Again, Pieve, though time and the market will sort out the pecking order.

In February the Pieve project was introduced for the first time in Montepulciano’s Sanctuary (or Tempio) of the Madonna di San Biagio. Developed over four years, the project enhances transparency, quality and consumer understanding of Montepulciano’s wines. The word Pieve comes from the Latin plebs, meaning “common people.” Historically that referred to rural parish churches in Tuscany which served as spiritual, social, and administrative centres. I Pievi were crucial in shaping Montepulciano’s cultural identity, dating back to the medieval era.

The new classification pays homage to these historical divisions, connecting wine to the centuries-old traditions of land and community.

Three Pillars of the Pieve Project

The classification is based on three core aspects that define Montepulciano’s terroir:

   1.  Historical Cadastral System (The Pievi)

The project follows historical territorial divisions, reinforcing regional identity.

   2.  Geology & Soil Composition

A mix of Pliocene marine-origin soils, Pleistocene sands, clay, and limestone defines the wines’ structure and aromatics.

   3. Landscape Morphology (Climate & Terrain)

Elevation (250-600m), exposure, and climate influence grape ripening and wine style.

The Consorzio organized a major tasting held to validate the Pieve Project featuring submissions from nearly all Pieve subzones to analyze distinct regional characteristics. Key Insights from the tasting evaluation confirmed that each Pieve expresses unique traits directly tied to its soil composition and growing conditions. Producers demonstrated the ability to craft wines with a clear sense of place, reinforcing the importance of terroir-driven winemaking.

This comes from having tasted nearly 30 examples in February and in my opinion when I assessed five Vino Nobile from the same Pieve a thread was certainly there. The characteristics shared between wines were less challenging to recognize than the sangiovese from Chianti Classico or Montalcino. This feature will be a great positive for the messaging of the Vino Nobile.

And so this leads to the Pieve Message:

That as keepers of the Pieve the Consortium will manage the rules to produce wines combining classicism with the contemporary Pieve Style.

   1. To the Producers this is an invitation to communicate the distinctiveness of the subzones.

   2. To the Journalists this is a way to understand and express the values of the territory, pushing towards continuous improvement.

   3. To the Wine Trade the chance to expand the reach of the appellation and cultivate global Pieve ambassadors.

   4. To The Local Montepulciano Community an opportunity to capitalize on the ways to develop the wine economy and tourism in the region.

We should all be looking forward to reading the manual assembled by Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi and American journalist Jessica Dupuy who have been tasked with delving deeply into the soils, geology, culture and tradition behind each. All of which will help us figure out what’s in our glass.

1. Pliocene part with maritime sedimentation
2. Pleistocene part with fluvial lacustrine sedimentation

 

Notice the arch that separates the two. Notice it’s like the line in Barolo that separates the Seravallian from The Tortonian terroirs

From May 2022, the Consortium of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is the first Consortium in Italy to be certified sustainable with 70 percent of wineries (over 60) having already invested in sustainability projects.

The 12 wines poured at the Masterclass

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022

This is the only 2022 tasted and when these wines arrive on our market they are truly from a five-star vintage and arguably the strongest lot of the last 10-15 years. The Gracciano Estate is one of the oldest wineries in the Montepulciano region. In the beginning of the 19th century, Gracciano was owned by the Svetoni family who built the Villa and created the Italian-style gardens that surround it. The property was inherited by the current owners, Marco, Vannozza and Galdina della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco, through their father Giorgio.

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

The estate dates back to 1962, founded in Cervognano by Egidio Corradi and is now at 63 years of production. It then passed into the hands of daughter Paola Corradi and her husband Ippolito De Ferrari. Then came Luca and Nicolò De Ferrari.

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

Fattoria Svetoni was commissioned by Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the 18th century and ended in the mid-19th century. In 1865 the Svetoni family began producing wine. Its 23 hectares of vineyards in Gracciano were acquired by Podere Rubino in 2017.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020

The current epoch began in 1996 with agronomist Luigi Pellegrino and his first vintage of Vino Nobile. His father Santo Pellegrino had started the estate in Cerliana with grandfather Luigi back in 1960.

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2021

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Sotto Casa 2020

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2020

On several occasions Godello has had the opportunity to taste the Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano sangiovese of Tuscany’s Carpineto winery with Antonio Michael Zaccheo Jr. Carpineto Appodati comprises five Tuscan estates; Dudda and Gaville in Greve in Chianti, Montepulciano, Montalcino and Gavorrano in Maremma. No less than 28 different wines are produced off of the five properties and while Dudda in the Chianti Classico appellation is the epicentre of the operation it is the storied Vino Nobile sangiovese from Montepulciano that have garnered the most international accolades.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cerliana 2021

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Founded in 1937, thanks to the initiative of 14 pioneering producers, it is the oldest wine growing and wine producing cooperative in Tuscany. For almost 80 years they have been a driving force in the region…almost single-handedly sustaining the DOC following the Second World War. Today it remains a cornerstone in the region…widely recognized as being a key promoter of Montepulciano wine, culture and tradition.

 

The following wines were tasted in Montepulciano, February 2025

Pieve

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

Once again the ancient place and Cantina Storiche of De’ Ricci takes on the newly defined Pieve distinction with, well true distinction. If 2022 seems to well with fruit concentration then 2023 takes the luxe sentiment one step further. Perhaps just because of its unresolved rebellious youth but this follow-up seems almost too deep in nature. Perhaps just a bit pressed and caught up in the revelry of the new UGA-esque notion but judgement can be reserved, at least in part to allow for another year of settling. No doubt a wine that should not be released this early – here is to planning for an assessment one year forward to find this wine in a more nurturing state.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

The Pieve work from one of Montepulciano’s most historical estates where a 3,000 year-old grotto houses the ancient cellars. One of 12 designated parishes, Ascianello, extending south from Badia and home to an identified terror of silty clay sediments overlying fine-grained sand. De’ Ricci’s “Classico” is so very Villages like pinot noir and the Pieve shows more like a Premier Cru because of its luxe concentration. The località meets frazione at the intersection of geography enhanced by the vortices of geology provides for this truly special sangiovese. Rolling with waves of varietal acidity that only Montepulciano can provide and even more succinctly as Ascianello. The definition of succulenza. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

The Pieve designation is Caggiole and the style that comes from that parish seems to be one of more density (in relative terms) with clay soils surely the origin. This would put Caggiole in a Santenay-like category, responsible for wines of weightier texture and fuller mouthfeel. Acidity does well though the pH feels higher and so salty protein would really aid and abet alongside. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

A second Caggiole design brings the clay into play for a Pieve-level Nobile sangiovese with weight affected by gravity. There is a low rumble to this sangiovee, a baritone effect and some oxidation already noted as being out of a warm and quicker to mature 2021. Drink up. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2022

There is more energy and intensity in the Caggiole from Poliziano but youth is surely involved in the determination and understanding of the feeling. The acidity is consistent with 2021 though this Pieve sangiovese just feels brighter and effusive in relation to that very promising sister. To be honest they are as close in age, style and sentiment as any consecutive Pieve wines and so the consistency of the house style is recognized, appreciated and celebrated. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

Poliziano’s Pieve is Caggiole, of tuff, clay, stone and Pliocene sands and while there is some weight to the 2021 it’s not fully affected by gravity. Not quite lithe and weightless but it does hover above the ground with a relative lightness of being. Indelible stamp of place and such ideal acidity will see this live as long as any of the entirety of the ‘21s. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Pieve Cerlina delivers a sound and solid sangiovese for Antico Colle with medium weight and density across its notes and mouthfeel. You can sense the sapidity in the fruity aromas, like minerals cut through stone and berry before transitioning to palate intensity. Truly black cherry flesh and stone, not quite, but edging to the typical bitter finish. A style for house and from place. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Bravo to the producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano because from the get go there are examples of one Pieve or another that show immediate commonalities. As here from Cerliana and its eponymous estate La Cerliana. Hard not to notice the thread from Antica Colle and through to Valdipiatta. Darker fruit, a mix of succulence and stone, from black cherry to minerals and back. A chalky tannin underneath finishes what adds up to a specific style, here more pressed and pronounced than the others, within and without the parish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

 

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2022

Of the three sangiovese tasted from the Pieve Cerliana it is Valdipiatta’s that is expressive of the most fruit and also restraint. Truly floral aromas are cut through by aggregate streaks that enhance without breaking the flow. Also a minor note of elevated volatility but this is a young, tannic and chalky (as per the Pieve) Nobile. Really needs time to settle in. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Serious acidity and a transference from tart to tang then back again with most of this Pieve’s personality defined by that aspect of its structure. A Cervognano of fullness, also in the tannin and in this case a well-pressed and extracted example. Just a bit over the top in that regard, with some austere moments and hard times in the tannin. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

From the Pieve Cervognano where what feel like the darkest red through black fruit sangiovese rising and come to the fore. A crisp, crunchy and bears repeating croccante iteration with the black cherry flesh and stone so dominant throughout its character. Another pressed and here also woody Vino Nobile needing time to get to its intended destination. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

While other Pieve-designate Vino Nobile from Cervognano reside at the darker fruit end of the spectrum it is this by Le Bèrne that dials it back a couple of notches with noted levels of restraint. A longer and softer maceration must be the reason, perhaps as long as 60 days and that is the impetus to abide by this specialize terroir. A solid composition categorized as proverbially elegant and it translates unequivocally into this sangiovese of mind-bending intensity. The push-pull posit tug between salinity and sapidity is doubly and dubiously palpable, at once filling the mouth with elements and then conversely minerals. The age-worthiness of this 2021 will be as long as any in the parish and indeed the appellation. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

A true blue mouthful of Cervognano intensity with dark fruit yet smartly held back just enough as far as pressing is concerned. The team is smart, savvy and in a short time has already begun to learn the nuances of the parish. A professional wine in every regard, high in acidity, serious of tannin and something to be regarded as a Nobile that will see through to its longevity. An auspicious and impressive entry to be sure. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Full and substantial, of maximum fruit set upon a traditional and classic frame. Far less austere and tannic than expected which suggests the estate wished to do something modern with their Pieve Nobile. Gracciano is the origin and if this is any indication the parish is one to produce straightforward and luxe fruited sangiovese. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2021

The eponymous estate for the Gracciano Pieve follows suit with as much aromatic waft and palate coating fruit as any in all of Montepulciano. A sangiovese that mixes the reds, blues and blacks for a stirring rendition to bring great flavour and texture upon the palate. Not the most tannic or structured example in this view and one to drink ahead of the rest. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2022

Slightly problematic nose on the Pieve Gracciano 2022 with more than a mere note of Brettanomyces. Plenty of substantial fruit as per the parish but the microbes are a distraction and carry over to the palate, The tannins are rendered brittle and the wine fades away.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Le Grazie 2021

Another Pieve in delivery of Vino Nobile as a dark and handsome sangiovese, this being Le Grazie, with thanks to its soil and climate. Good fortune smiles on this by Taloso because acidity and backbone are equal to the task, to exult that fruit and result in a big yet balanced wine. Impressive stature and potential indeed. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bertille Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve San Biagio 2021

First bottle TCA. Second is sound. Now from Pieve San Biagio, one of 12 Montepulciano parishes delineated, designed and delivered for identified styles of sangiovese. Or that is at least the hope, idea and plan to present 12 different expressions that speak of their origins. There is a skin muskiness that speaks to both maceration style and time, but also the soil it would seem. Also a late mustiness noted, not to the point of total distraction and certainly not egregious but the wine is not perfectly clean. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

High tonality and acidity combine for a specific style of Vino Nobile, here from the Pieve of Sant’Albino. These are lighter sangiovese with an eye to the sky and mixed feelings, from brightness and lightning. Also (and clearly) a house style, dusty, excitable and high flying, notably marked by Balsamico and ready for action. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2022

A repetition of estate style runs from 2021 through to this 2022 though the fruit quality and quantity is undoubtedly higher this time around. More extraction and what feels like longer hang time which brings about some early maturity, even in the face and with thanks to seriously high and spicy acidity. Again it’s a factor of place but also house. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

Moving on to the next parish, that being Pieve Sant’Ilario and a Vino Nobile of powerful restraint. Somewhat reserved and demure but still you can’t help note the tannic intensity in all its seriousness plus austerity. Drying with herbals and all the Macchia Mediterranea meets barrel that could be captured in a bottle of Montepulciano sangiovese. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2022

As far as the Nobile from Pieve Sant’Ilario are concerned it is this 2022 that is expressive of the darkest set of fruit. A black cherry cut by mineral stone that bears resemblance to the Pieve wines of Cervognano. Yet different because there is a lack of finishing bitterness. This goes in a another direction, acting smooth and gelid, almost metallic at the finish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2021

The continuity already threads from one Pieve Sant’Ilario to another with sangiovese marked by their high intensity matched by proper restraint. They just don’t seem to give too much away too soon. Still they accumulate fruit, mineral and muskiness noted on the palate, juicy and succulent, without high glycerol and in this case a natural if not entirely spic and span profile. No matter and some will surely note the rusticity while others, will like it all the same. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

From a storied estate with holdings in more than one parish, in this case Pieve Sant’Ilario where the dichotomies between aromas and flavours are duly noted. Restraint followed by a deep wheeling of musky churned fruit, first one and then the other. The old cellar does bring old school style and austerity, more so than others and of their two Pieve Nobile tasted this is the charming Vecchia. Hard not to be seduced by its ancient grace and charm. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2021

Pieve Valardegna brings a whole new or ulterior set of Vino Nobile parameters to the table. Il Molinaccio’s is less austere, more modern and gainfully expressive of style. Not exactly luxe or rich but certifiably ample and beautifully balanced, if not a high acid sangiovese style. Stay with this wine for some time and you will realize the structure is more pronounced than at first thought, which tells us the wine will live well and long. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Godiolo Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2023

A different expression for Pieve designate Montepulciano altogether, here light and with a feel of carbonic maceration. It’s a lovely, glou-glou style of sangovese, fresh and spirited but one will wonder how it stacks up as a representation of a specific Pieve. A touch reductive, feeling like an unfinished sample with time the reality holding its meaning for what will eventually be revealed.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valiano 2021

The only example of Pieve Valiano presented is this quite composed and restrained sangiovese. Floral to a degree and kinder as well but fruit is of highest importance. Not particularly structured as a result or more to the point a factor of style and so drink this early to gain entry into and make some sense of the Pieve ideal. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vino Nobile 2022

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Should the wish to experience Vino Nobile and 2022 in the way nature and climate would ask of you, well then take this right proper sangiovese as the wine to try. Luxe as fruit could be and though more site specific wines will surely elevate the game, with this Nobile there is no drop off in terms of a classico level wine. Wood is perfectly judged so that the braid of acidity and tannin do what is necessary and more importantly what is just. Giusto Vino Nobile, compact and structured with the potential to soften, unwind and release for a promising future. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High-toned and snappy, lighting red fruit heavy in citrus and matched by the grippy determination from wood. Pomegranate and corbezzolo with spices run amok. A bit awkward at this stage, of an older school in style and a sangiovese surely needing time. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pagliareto 2022

Dark fruit, dusty, Balsamico and edgy. A touch higher in VA than what should be necessary and yet you can feel terroir in this sangiovese. Also some overripe moments which means you do need to drink this Nobile sooner rather than later. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A most unique if unusual aromatic style for 2022 Nobile. Floral while expressive of a mix between white and dark chocolate. Not so common for the nose of a sangiovese and the flavours follow suit. Tia Maria but also foxy and just lacking truth, or pleasure.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Lamberto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Well ripened and also pressed fruit brings the florals, minerals and volatile notes to the fore. A full and substantial entry that is nothing if not impressive. The continuation takes the wine to another level and it sails comfortably through a soft, creamy and modern lactic sea. The wood is very much a part of the character but it’s done well and integrates with ease. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG La Spinosa 2022

There are two styles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that express a vintage, one being the luxe and concentrated sangiovese of darker fruit and then there is this. Lighter and transparent yet certain not lacking in its own kind of concentration, or character. The purity, honesty and beauty of sangiovese is real and frankly also seductive. The integration of elements puts this in a great state for a wine that will drink with grace and makes some dreams come true. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Not the easiest vintage to capture all the available florals but such is the case with this aromatic 2022. The garden in all its blooming glory and who could not be seduced by the beauty. Nor is it a fleeting moment because the palate seems to experience more of that seduction and acids follow suit. No relent right through to a finish that lingers, wrapped around fingers and hearts. Well that was something. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bertille Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High tonality, in other words a string of volatile compounds strong and in command. Tart and then tannic with a hard shell so very tough to crack. Give time as requested though the bitter finish with a shot of espresso tells the barrel story. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG “Arya” 2022

A Nobile more taut and closed than most from 2022, more like vintages past, say 2016 for example. A fortressed sangiovese surrounded by a wall of structural construct that will not open unless time is granted. Just feels like a wine coming from warm days and cool nights, tart in just the correct way, fruit hidden yet aching to be set free. There is great potential in this Vino Nobile. Great potential. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Linea Redi 2022

A sangiovese of place where the evergreen and brushy flora predominate the landscape for a Nobile of vertu Macchia Mediterranea style. A sangiovese that simply can’t help be savoury, expressive of its Balsamico, but also taut and austere. These are the combined effects of terroir, old wood and a warm vintage. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2022

Au contrast and contraire with Vino Nobile ushered into the modernity of today for all the fruit that money can raise, determine and buy. Lush and luxe with all the advantages of a warm vintage extracted and effected. Crisp acidity, exterior crunch and interior chew. Soft and creamy in that way, like black plums swimming in a single syrup of merlot. An amazingly professional Vino Nobile, just about ready to roll and solid as a rock. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vannutelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Signore del Greppo 2022

Highest of volatile tones dominate the aromas and admonish the fruit. A mix of verbena and ribena, pine evergreen and then wood. Lots of wood. Too much wood, finishing at lavender and vanilla extract. As if by French wood. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A mix of fruit, part fleshy and part desiccated to indicate multiple harvest passes before, at and after the optimum moment. Combines to create a layered Nobile of true Nobile sangiovese-ness. Tart and tannic, within reason on both fronts and well made if a bit rambling and rustic. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

There are some Vino Nobile houses that just know what’s what, have figured out the formula and get things correct out of every season. That is to say the wine that is made is a true reflection of vintage with this Poliziano being the answer to a warm and developed 2022. All parts are captured, preserved and presented at peak. Fruit is musky floral and effusive, acidity sweet and energizing, tannins there with just enough grip to see the wine age well for five, seven, potentially even eight years. Where or what could be the argument against such a total declaration? Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Alboreto 2022

Hard to find a Nobile with more upfront fruit in all its naturally sweet wonder as here with a fortuitously ripe sangiovese. Acids are on the soft yet supportive side to match the semi-tart berries stride for stride. Truly like a bowl of summer fruit picked at just the right time and left to macerate in its own juices. Plenty of immediate gratification on order here. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truly floral and expressive sangiovese at the heart and core of what Nobile is meant to be. More than just style to emulate but something intrinsic, of value and restraint while maintaining heritage, loyalty and composure. Ripe and supportive acids keep fruit buoyed and presented to please. Just enough fine tannin will see to a wine capable of aging more than ten years. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

What could be considered a “Villages” example from vineyards located within the local parish of Gracciano, home to its most famous tenant at Della Seta. Crunchy sangiovese in every way, coolly herbal and focused. Though expressive of a learned maturity this ’23 is not quite settled, aching and edgy for now, a year away from drinking the way it was clearly intended.  Last tasted March 2025

Knowable Vino Nobile style, expression and effect. A child of a warm season, developed through experience, already showing its maturity and ready to please. A concept that depicts character seen and tasted many times, repeated here for a sangiovese that has already arrived at its destination. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Earthy, terroir-driven and chewy sangiovese, old-school, woody and rustic. Substantial concentration with the barrel effect doubling down and the end result being a Nobile of hard tannic qualities. Somewhat overdone and challenging. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio Alla Sala Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Above average grip in the aromas suggestive of a sapid sangiovese built on botanicals and an Amaro-like tonic. Good richness and concentration, sweet acidity and well-developed texture to cause the wine to coat the palate. Pleasant and lingering, never abandoning its cause to result in a truly positive effect. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Santa Caterina 2022

Correct, of dried petals in rosewater and a pomegranate to currant fruit style. Well-pressed, neither too light nor to dark, not soft, nor hard but somewhere safely in between. Solid construct predicated on acidity over tannin for mid-term aging ability. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truth delivered through an estate’s particular Balsamico for a Nobile with an extra layer of volatile acidity, caught at a moment within reason if just a shade higher than the wine would wish it were found to be. Just a shade overripe as well with fruit already showing some prune matched awkwardly by the acidity noted at the first. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Floral, effusive and expressive, of a light-handed touch in the face of a warm vintage. Surely harvested at peak with the savvy of knowing and then capturing the right moment ahead of a potential turn towards the overripe. Acidity preserved as well and well suited to ready for drinking. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Macchione Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

A year forward and a return to the great Nobile vintage for which time has begun to do what’s needed to soften a sangiovese. Plenty of wood on this 2021 now melting and integrating for readying the wine. With aeration you could consider drinking ’21 right here and now and because the amplitude and texture are so fine you might see no reason to wait another day. That said another year will really bring this Macchione into a great place. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Sharp red fruit though now relaxed a bit because of the extra year in bottle. Fruit shed tannic oppression and next level of concentration to represent the appellation with proper distinction. Like a bowl of fresh berries with acidity present though never intrusive. Tannins having resolved mean these next two-plus years will be joyous. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pasiteo 2021

The decision to hold back this Vino Nobile was a wise one because bigger bones made the requiem a necessity to unleash expressive character. Then again the fruit would have been just that much fresher six months ago, but the structure and wood would have both been greater distractions. Now together the union is simpatico though the window won’t stay open long, not before secondary character arriving unabated. Drink up because the chocolate and coffee will only get stronger. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Villa S. Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

The extra year off aging has not done this sangiovese any favours with its decline arriving soon and coming on fast. Acidity and tannin are still present but the fruit is oxidizing as we taste and speak.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Old-school does not begin to describe this wine of the ancients. Volatility thy name is sangiovese while oxidation and sweet fruit get together for a very specific type of Vino Nobile charm. No doubt the sort of Montepulciano sangiovese you have to take time to get to know. You may (or may not) be seduced. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Casa Vinicola Triacca – Fattoria Santavenere Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Santavenere 2020

Here comes the saint, the patron of Vino Nobile that looks out over sangiovese and expresses the local literati of the variety in this ultra specific way. That would be to age longer in wood and release the wine later than some other eager estates. A creamy and soft sangiovese results though one that feels like it could be imagined as being augmented by a grape such as merlot. Not really but you get the drift. Ready to go. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Dark fruit, hung longer than some to concentrate sugars and create this naturally sweet, soft, plummy and full-flavoured Nobile. A good and proper construct, not particularly grippy or tannic and certainly not drying at the end. Still has some quality life left to live. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2019

The smell of red crayon and wood all over the aromatics. Taut, tart, brittle, hard and drying tannins. Bit of a dirty wine.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Selezione

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna d’Alfiero 2022

Vegan-designate Vino Nobile and to no surprise a luxe and concentrated, elevated and characterized example. Exaggerates fruit and acidity, treads towards near dangerous territory and yet the amount of fruit available on hand stands up to the volatility. Equips the wine with the sure-fire ability to travel, age and drink in a good way some years ahead. The tannins are currently grippy, austere and drying but they will soften, negotiate and dissipate. Wait three years. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Tenuta Vallocaia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG I Quadri 2022

The exaggeration of concentrated rusticity and sweet acidity get together for a most interesting example of Vigna Vino Nobile. A single vineyard expression where solar radiation develops fruit and its associated compounds for a chewy and musky sangiovese. A good wine, not particulate complex but well made and prepared to drink this way for up to five years. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigneto Santa Pia 2021

A Vino Nobile of a single vineyard or selection and there can be no doubt this comes from a very Mediterranean place. Macchia notes dominate the aromas, of hillside tea, rosemary and even an olive tapenade. That said the wine is not entirely clean as confirmed by the brittle and hard tannins. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Soraldo 2020

Somewhat luxurious sangiovese though on the naturally fruit sweet and sour heart side of things to express Vino Nobile in a particular way. Not exactly tart and no oxidation has crept in from this unique expression. Length is good and the wine’s linger is a positive one. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna Scianello 2020

Single vineyard Vino Nobile, still quite tannic and yet to advance beyond its structured beginnings. There is a slight oxidative lean on the nose yet the wine stays linear, upright and sturdy. Still plenty of barrel to shed, melt and integrate should the fruit this wish to allow. Dries out at the finish though not without some developing character and complexity. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Mulinvecchio 2020

A mix of red fruit, waxy crayon and raw dough on the nose for a confounding start to this sangiovese. Some grace and charm no doubt but also a level of volatility that may be distracting but surely this is the house style. No missing the substance, character, complexity and experience. As a Selezione this shines for the appellation and the future is bright, while also long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano

Icario Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sansasìa 2019

Problematic – volatile and woody to an uncomfortable degree. Faulted example – Brettanomyces taking over the palate and the tannins.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigne Vecchie di Famiglia 2019

Old vines make for sangiovese of high-level concentration and when the structural parts follow suit then here you have a Vino Nobile of great promise. Such is the case with this luxe, fleshy and at times severely tannic example but this shall pass and all with come to act and be together as one. Top quality and effect for 2019 and a wine that should live very well into the next decade. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Antica Chiusina 2019

Red fruit tang like few others and a level of volatility edging upwards towards the threshold of acceptance, but also understanding, Treads figuratively and hangs in the balance but there is no doubt that the concentration puts this in Selezione territory. Softens towards the back of the palate and calms right down. Needs food to tame the early distraction. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Montemercurio Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Damo 2016

A maturing and resolved sangiovese that has seen its share of wood and gentle oxidation to arrive at this stage of its tenure. A Selezione of ample substance and chewy texture, some drying tannin and with air some airing in a decanter the wine should be ready to go. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Poggio S.Enrico 2015

Here now a lovey settled and mature sangiovese with its dusty Balsamico character aged into a secondary state of grace. A Vino Nobile in Selezione form now caught in a tidy place with all its parts having come together. Chocolate all over the finish which speaks to the heavy use of wood but this has come to be a lovely drop. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Riserva

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

Added layers and extra concentration define the aromatic proposal of a Riserva that to a producer is from la crème de la crème of Vino Nobile vintages. An ideal time to declare, select, age and bottle Riserva for the ages. This because of unlimited potential qualified by fruit substance, ideal acids and finest tannins drawn from the soils and success of a season. The balance and expressive character are simply tops. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Ojas 2021

High level expressiveness delivers fruits studded by herbs and spice but also wood with trenchant intention. Dark Riserva for Vino Nobile and the concentration works to a degree. With thanks to the proper structure of the wine it is the generosity of maceration and pressing that result in a rich and layered sangiovese of depth and deep colour. Will turn to truffle and earth before too long. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Quercione 2021

A reductive example of Vino Nobile Riserva but also one with an evergreen character in its aromas. This is followed by palate sweetness in a creamy, wood effected style. A bit gratuitous and sappy in the end. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

In a similar vein and style expressed by the estate’s ’22 Vino Nobile there is this undeniable connection to Riserva ’21. From a set of vineyards from which a selection of Riserva quality grapes, but even more importantly the kind of bunches that represent this appellation. Though the ’21 Riserva is blessed with veritable concentration it also delivers the minerals out of the diamonds in the rough and the structure to age as it should. Well thought out, considered, put together and consummated. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

An incredible concentration of an estate’s climatic Mediterranean experience transcribed as Balsamico of località to define Vino Nobile as Riserva. Luxe of dark fruit, espresso and the cask’s effect brings a seasoning of liquid to fill the cracks. Professional extrovert of a sangiovese for mid-term drinking, or longer term if you wish for secondary and even tertiary character. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

TCA. The top two wines for Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta are the newly minted “Pieve” label, a sangiovese that represents the parish of origin, one of twelve in Montepulciano, in this case Gracciano for which this estate is both pioneer and leader. The other is this Riserva, not a question of better or more important but instead a matter of using highest quality fruit in the representative way for an historic level of appellation. Using a highly touted vintage is key but again of greater importance is an estate’s view of what they are working with in any given year. A previously tasted sound bottle of this 2021 revealed a sangiovese stimulant, stellar and seductive, with fruit and acidity intertwined in a layering so rich it feeds the palate with a fullness not seen in the other wines. More wood as well, yet to integrate and so potential is high.  Last tasted March 2025

Relatively high-toned Vino Nobile, especially within the idiom at Riserva level and yet the wine feels just a bit hard to get Not a closed nose but just the slightest apprehension to open. The palate is more generous and giving, fruit sweeter and creamy, easy to assimilate and enjoy. Dark sangiovese, yet joyous and abiding. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Vallocaia 2021

Quite a sweet set of aromas, rose floral, Ribena and effusive. Nothing dark or dangerous about this sangiovese, but rather a full and substantial concentration of red fruit with a connection between its constituent parts. Sneaky tannins come late and take charge with their grippy and austere notion. This is definitely the sort of Riserva you need to stay with, give time to release and better yet wait three years to allow for a coming together. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2021

Truly similar and connected with the Tenuta’s ’22 Vino Nobile, of dark and luxe fruit caught at optimum ripeness and translated into a silky smooth elixir. A sangiovese that could only come from Montepulciano and more specifically this part of the region. Über professional work and surprisingly tannic which means the aging potential is quite good. Truffle, fungi and a reduction of Tuscan terroir, a.k.a, Balsamico are not far away. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

If at first there seems to be a sense of oxidation and a density that obfuscates what charm there should be – do not fear the worst. Things brighten on the palate with a richness of fruit mixed with wood thick as thieves for good times in juicy sangiovese. Continues to improvce as it rests and the best feels yet to come. In the end we get this seriously structured Vino Nobile as Riserva that will change, morph and improve with further age. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Simposio 2020

Red fruit and florals, simple and effective, not particularly fleshy or substantial. Easy and ready, willing to please and time to get onside. Drink away. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

Experienced, dare it be said antediluvian style of Vino Nobile expression. Taut and tart, an intensity not always noted and time still needed to soften the construction. Not a big wine per se but a tight one, spiced and not yet forgiving. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2016

A tired and oxidative Vino Nobile with acidity still flying high but fruit getting into raisin territory. There would have been pleasure two years ago but the time has past. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

A visit at Salcheto

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosato IGT

The only Rosé in production is called Obvius, bottled without sulphites, made from sangiovese with (10 percent combined) canaiolo, mammolo and merlot. Just steel and not produced in every vintage, this being the latter stages of 2020 still being on the market and with 2022 coming next. The cleanest Rosato in this style possible, mimicking an Orange wine without ever being one, but natural it is and natural it acts. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Explosive fruit from the 2020 Obvius as Rosso in the series’ natural form, by design and of trenchant intention. As with the Rosato and Bianco these are all free thinking, formed and flowing wines of definition and purpose. Rosso joins the colloquy to take part in the re-writing of relationships between grapes and denomination. In Montepulciano the various forms of DOCG (Annata, Riserva, Selezione and Pieve) take care of the yeoman work and Obvius by Salcheto alters the conversation. Seems to be the point and Rosso makes a real statement. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Just sangiovese aged up to four years, split between cask and bottle, this being the vintage at the end of its run currently on the market. Wild of ferment and style, rich of texture and just that devilishly dangerous hint of game that speaks to the how and why, but also the what in terms of food pairing. The small deer of Tuscany done up in Ragù come to mind. Vino Nobile is almost never quite like this, predicated on texture and mystery that peaks curiosity, all the while there is wonder about how it came to be this way. Now softening from a vintage specific to Montepulciano where acidity was not all that exceptional. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vecchie Viti del Salcò 2018

The signature sangiovese and only made in select vintages from the oldest vines on the estate in vineyards surrounding the cellar. Notably concentrated and with that feeling of a Nobile at the height of experience. Silky, creamy and smooth and still toned. To be honest this is the kind of Vino Nobile that leads a style to be found out of the parish of Le Grazie. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò 2017

From the oldest vineyards up to 35 years of age located around the cantina, 100 percent sangiovese with a minimum aging of five years in 400L tonneaux plus three in bottle. From a certified hot vintage and now into its late years of primary maturity with secondary notes are on arrival. Violets on the nose, mulberry and faux mocha with flavours ranging, rising an falling into soft textures, creamy and settled on the palate. A sangiovese of experience, charm and grace though things will change again before too long. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Toscano Vino Biologico 2013

A sangiovese from another era out of a less than usual vintage and the result being a maturity matched by an acidity surely specific to that season. Secondary notes have fully arrived, of Bokser pod, carob and leathery plum. Not a particularly Balsamico vintage but more so fruit and what feels like saffron. A bit of botrytis perhaps? Or not, though fig and liquorice too are all over the palate and the wine is, or at least was not too long ago surely seductive. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò Evoluzione 2006

Remarkable longevity from a 2006 as a sangiovese coming from 18-plus years ago and with thanks to top quality vintage acidity. Sparks fly from the palate on this signature Vino Nobile in reference to the stream that flows around the valley and the willow trees that populate the terroir. Wow factor impression delivered from a wine designed in another era so persistent and a season for which the scent of Macchia Mediterranea is so pronounced. Some tannin still alive will allow this to stay focused for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025.

Good to go!

godello

 

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