Tag Archives: Sauvignon Blanc

Looking for whites in all the right places

Laurent Fievet, AFP/Getty Images

as seen on canada.com

The big red chill offered a brief weekend respite from white wines but I’m still feelin’ hot, hot, hot. The sun’s arrow is pointed directly at my vinous heart so I’ve no choice but to bust-a-move towards a renewed search for thirst quenchers of the less-pigmented kind. These recently released great whites are waiting and willing to assist.

The grape: Sauvignon Blanc

The history: While perhaps not as versatile, potentially exciting and confounding as Chenin Blanc, this varietal outsells all else in the Loire. Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Touraine are the keys to the Loire’s success.

The lowdown: I can’t think of a blasphemic reason not to run out and buy this one by the dozen

The food match: Pan-Fried Pike in a Garlic Scape-Leek-Shallot Beurre Blanc

Domaine De La Colline Sauvignon Touraine 2010 (169656, $12.95) is the workday done sun-downer few Sauvignon Blancs can match for IVR* assurance. Eglantine and apple tisane. Bony and blanched shallot driven by the Loire’s rocky truffeau, with a smokey persimmon fini glacé.  88

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Owned by Raventos of Spain, famous for Cava, the name means “handcrafted” in their native Catalan

The lowdown: The iconic white varietal of Burgundy is many things and while the Artesa is not a California ween of bananas and blow, its none of them either

The food match: Chicken Shish Kebabs

Artesa Chardonnay 2010 (657585, $23.95) is an understated and capital if not a once in a lifetime example of cool Carneros. “Under the rocks and stones, there is water underground.” It talks to me in a voice I can understand and heads in a faint citrus, CVR** direction. Tropical with apricot and longan, but is neither heavy nor bloated.  89

The grape: Pinot Gris

The history: Pinot Noir variant, third most planted varietal of Alsace, behind Riesling and Gewurztraminer

The lowdown: A producer of pedigree and passion despite some contrarian and snobbish grumblings of a conglomerate nature

The food match: Grilled Tilapia in a Soy, lime and Rice Vinegar marinade

Trimbach Réserve Pinot Gris 2008 (971762, $22.95) is seductively Sauternes-like in its orange marmalade viscosity. An immense Gewurz-like PG. Off-dry tropical fruit, lanolin and a macadamia nut streak foils lemon, peppery orange and gold nasturtium. The edible florals are replayed in its sun-blazing technicolour.  90

The Splurge

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Chablis has reached a peak in quality that to me began with this 2002 vintage. The mineral, steel and flint of great Chablis is so unique to Chardonnay

The lowdown: As good as Premier Cru gets. As good as most Grand Cru that cost a minimum 50% more

The food match: Bouillabaisse, or any fish stew with high quality fish and seafood

Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys Chablis 1er Cru 2002 (289256, $44.95) 10 years on is impeccably balanced, with dry-roasted nuts, steel-cut oats and brilliant Marigolds wrapped up in a bursting mineral package. The age is imperceptible, the poise uncanny. You won’t fond this for less than $50 in the US. This is a steal and will drink beautifully for 5-10 years more.  92

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-t0-value ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-t0-value ratio

Good to go!

Lovin’ the whites of summer

Andreas Haertle, Fotolia.com

canada.com

A blessed country this Canada we live in. We weather storms and survive difficulties as well as any nation. We are not too big to fail. We’re lucky and fortunate too. The eastern United States remains mired in a catastrophe of heat and power outages while we enjoy an unprecedented stretch of warm temperatures, cooling breezes and blue skies. We will see a blip in the weather for the next day or two,  but by the end of the week the temperature and clear skies are slated to return and stay with us for an extended period of time. White wine sales are soaring, quality bottles evaporating and as we speak, a new wave of releases hits the shelves. Winemakers from Ontario and British Columbia continue to pump up the volume and their efforts demand attention. This (so far) phenomenal growing season of 2012 can only add to the growing legacies. There is no time like the present to opine on what to look for now in anticipation of another glorious weekend ahead.

The grape: Semillon

The history: Understudy or partner to Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux whites

The lowdown: Single varietal versions from Australia, especially the Hunter Valley have been impressive. This is a rare B.C. bottling of alchemic elegance

The food match: Grilled Wild B.C. Salmon under a Pommery mustard sauce

Mt. Boucherie Estate Collection Semillon 2008 (279364, $19.95, $14.99 B.C.) is exactly what the doctor ordered for those who can no longer tolerate red wine. Full-bodied Chardonnay need not be the only alternative. Porcine, butcher shop and fresh-churned butter aromas, beeswax and simmering vegetable stock too. Stand alone Semillon will rise up to fish, especially Sockeye, chicken and the other white meat. Deli-meats, especially Pingue Prosciutto would soak it up. Elongated and wraparound finish.  90

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: From Burgundy, one of the six great original wines of the world

The lowdown: Winemaker Dan Sullivan’s light touch ensures this Prince Edward County Chard is made in the vineyard

The food match: Grilled Shrimp with Citrus and Smoked Paprika

Rosehall Run Cuvée County Chardonnay 2009 (132928, $21.95) is “almost everything I need” from a P.E.C. white. Tart, mineral-driven with wood smoke and an expected but not over the top-level of brimstone. Sullivan’s street is paved with gold, and no one ever grows old.  89

The grape: Riesling

The history: Germany and Austria define mineral and petrol driven examples are built to last for a decade or more

The Lowdown: Hidden Bench is proving that the Beamsville Bench will lead the way for this versatile varietal

The food match: Pan-Roasted Whitefish and Pickerel with Lemon and Fresh Herbs

Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2010 (183491, $24.20) strikes a phenomenal balance between obvious juicy fruit opposite hidden petrol and loess. The stone struck against rock under the sun’s glare is minor in key, as is the pulverulence. This Locust Lane Vineyard Riesling entrenches winemaker Beyers in maestro’s clothing as she takes the reigns from J. M. Bouchard.  89

The Splurge

The grape: Sauvignon Blanc

The history:  Most famous as Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire and as the signature wine of New Zealand

The lowdown: If I were to fork out 50 bills for SB, this Russian River Valley beauty would be the one. Made with 33% Savagnin Musque, A Bordeaux-clone of Sauvignon Blanc.

The food match: Duck Tacos with Spicy Hoisin and Pickled Carrot

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (283705, $47.95) spreads like gooseberry and guava butter on fresh summer corn. Unctuous, precise, fearlessly focused and endowed with a gamut of tropical flavours. Despite all that praise it plays a bit hard to get and is a bit of a tough nut to crack. Two years wait wouldn’t hurt.  91

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Whites and Rosés

Coyote’s Run. Photo Credit: Michael Pinkus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Niagara wines top this list. Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard is a legend in the making. Hinterbrook blows me away with a world-class Rosé.

Nino Franco Faive Brut Sparkling Rosé 2010 (31567, $19.95) the eruptive El Nino of Strawberry fizz is creamy and yet light on its feet. Elevates pink Venetian bubbles to a higher caste and hovers with good length. Wedding ready.  87

Codorníu Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Cava NV (665372, $17.95), always easy on the eyes and nose, boasts red skin apple effervescence and tastes like apple cake in liquid form. But, if you are the largest Champagne-substitute producer on the planet, why does the price have to rise by $3?  Anyone, VINTAGES, Bueller?  86

Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 (49775, $21.95) whiffs a sliver of Niagara Gold, paw paw and petrol. Take this man-eating elixir to bed and the possibility exists for some arm chewing as a means for escape in the morning. This formidable, complex and consistent vineyard is developing as a legend in Niagara terroir. Nothing beats its CVR** potential at this price.  90

 

Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2009 (346304, $51.95) tests my vertigo. High anxiety, explosive acidity initially causes fear but a rhubarb tropical balance helps to subdue the tension. Ballsy Chardonnay.  89

Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (346296, $29.95) sees the tree for the forest and stands tall like a redwood. Dry humoured and almost Dry Creek-like of a no oak order. LOL at the double designation. Make up your mind Mike, “is he gonna shit, or is he gonna kill us?” Spicoli SB.  89

McManis Chardonnay 2010 (265983, $19.95) the utilitarian one of Wonder white toast and sweet, yellow viscous juice. Sorry, drink.  85

Simi Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2009 (200881, $31.95) suggests socialist stock, RRV buttered popcorn, nuts and bolts. Solid and direct Melon Blanc leading Waylon Smithers to love the A+ score from Mr. Burns. “How old is this guy?” he wants to know. Glad he didn’t offer to take off his belt. “With pleasure sir.”  87

Cono Sur Limited Edition 20 Barrels Chardonnay 2008 (127498, $24.95) simply personifies and aromatically packages cooler Chile in a baked golden delicious, apple pie. From the mineral and red clay soils of El Centinela. A Christian Seventh-day Adventist magazine? No, a Casablanca wine estate.  87

Concha Y Toro Trio Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (678656, $13.95) of purling, floral apricot blossom fragrance whorls pralined pecan. A three-valley SB offering good value if not obvious in identity.  85

Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (283648, $14.95) whiffs calden and peas in a musky b-flat tone beneath the algarobilla. Candied gooseberry, juicy fruit with a touch of bitter carob.   84

Hunter’s Jane Hunter Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (280271, $19.95) of imperceptible tint tropically buffs cerate guava and mangosteen. The duck, duck bypassing of the Chileans lands goose on this SB. The Kiwi is a charmer, a real cake-eater.  88

Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2010 (277939, $21.95) is hardcore, a tough mudder full of yeasty, cranky green eggs and bam. Wild Emeril South African juice for boot camp.  86

Château Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010 (16709, $17.95) is an off-bottle. Atomic 16 off the charts.  NR

Domaine Pierre De La Grange Vielle Vignes Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2010 (274654, $24.95) of coarse, saline grain and winter melon climbing and trailing from lamellar phyllite. Good metamorphic weight and distance. Would be top IVR* in its class at $12.95.  87

Lingenfelder Bird Riesling 2010 (568634, $13.95) has lost its chops over the years. The entry level QbA Bergweiler outdoes the Bird on all levels. Better yet, go any Riesling from Niagara over the Ling at this price and order it with the Lingonberry pancake.  83

Hinterbrook Rosé 2011 (275818, $16.00) is simply brilliant. Top Ontario Rosé to date. Goes well beyond descriptors like “playful” and “quaffable.” A four-day Cabernet Franc cold soak was the ticket to serious pink success, the choice of grape an engineering master stroke. Hinterbrook’s dark side of the moon. Moody, ambient, rich in tone, lyric and extended play. Rosé needs some mystery and here it is.  “There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it’s all dark.”  91

 

Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Pinks Dry Rosé 2011 (277970, $19.95) of rare Valdiguie, a.k.a. Napa Gamay and 1/4 Pinot shows shipshape extraction and variant bitterness. Lacks dimension and ultimately stands like a crane on one leg.   85

Carte Noire Rosé 2011 (319384, $14.95) casts a rainbow, tawny-pink shadow in chromatic film noir fashion. Smells like a pink pleasure palace, cotton candy factory and a mix of rocks and pink lavender. Definitely puts the horse before the cart.  87

La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2011 (119453, $17.95) chases a fading blossom on a bitter almond tree. At 14% abv it’s unbraided and a bit anti-Provence in style.  84

Famille Perrin Tavel Rosé 2011 (680801, $19.95) shines as the evening sun, sitting like phosphorous on the wine’s flesh. Serious for Rosé, the olive-skin Mediterranean edges are echoed in a savoury accent, of garrigue and pressed oil.   88


Cabriz Rosé 2011 (30445, $11.95) blends twiggy Alfrochiero with zaftig Touriga for an E-man plea of “light colour but electric pink!” A-1 IVR* value from Portugal’s Dão Sul. Definitely the way to go in cheap Rosé.  86

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

Wild Leek Week

Zatar Flank Steak, Wild Leek Pesto, Chard, Yu Choy, Asparagus, Artichoke and Ramps

Zatar Flank Steak, Wild Leek Pesto, Chard, Yu Choy, Asparagus, Artichoke and Ramps

Rampcake

April 20, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/21/wild-leek-week/

 

Leek week. All leeks, all the time. Every dish gets ramped up by the foot soldier, pugilist and grognard of the onion family. “As long as I was in for good, I might as well go the whole hog.” The Mickey Finn allium, orchestrating as purgative, nicitating and aiding the digestive tract. Light yet electric flavour that builds like a fist over a pond. “Gotta strange magic.” A Riesling and a Sauvignon Blanc to match.

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2010, Niagara Escarpment & Twenty Valley (89029, $17.95) mans fine architectural lines akin the house that Maury built. A nectarine and guava smoothie, creamy, satisfying. a handsomely hatched thirst quencher. The restaurant version “Echoes” is on the card at Barque.  87

Pascal Jolivet Sauvignon Blanc, Attitude 2010 ($20.95) may not be labeled as Sancerre but that it is. Speaks its mind from the get go, slinging zinging youthful lemon and lime flavours across the tongue like a summer slip and slide. Straightforward Loire SB, unabashed, direct, food-friendly. Premium list at Barque.  88

Ramped Brisket Tacos and Sliders

Ramped Brisket Tacos and Sliders

Roast Chicken, Beans and Wild Leeks

Golden Beets, Avocado, Pomegranate and Ramp Oil

 

 

Good to go!