Just last week Michael Godel presented a mix of the 2019 and 2016 Brunello di Montalcino vintages to 85 guests at Toronto’s Granite Club. Back in November of 2023 the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino came to Toronto and for that edition of Benvenuto Brunello Godello presented the 2019 vintage. There were more than 350 media and trade requests for 120 seats at the annual event, however in 2024 there was no presentation in Toronto, making the Granite Club tasting a truly exclusive event. Sincere thanks is owed to Sommelier and Head of Beverage Brent Fraser for his initiative in arranging a special and exclusive tasting of 13 top echelon Brunello for the club’s members. A week prior Michael had returned from Montalcino where he payed visits with six estates as a follow-up to 10 immersive November days at Benvenuto Brunello 2024.

Related – Montalcino Previews 2024: Brunello 2020, Brunello Riserva 2019 and older vintages

The 2024 edition of Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino was Godello’s eighth consecutive opportunity to gauge the current state of the territory’s sangiovese. He sat and tasted in the Sant’Agostino Chiostro for three days, assisted as always by the incredible Sommeliers of AIS Siena and Toscana. Visits to estates were made at Canalicchio di Sopra, Donatella Cinelli Colombini (at Fattoria del Colle), Il Poggione, Cerbaia, Terre Nere, Val di Suga, Biondi-Santi, San Polo, Corte Pavone, Le Potazzine, Casanova di Neri, Ridolfi, Sasseti-Livio Pertimali and Podere Sante Marie.

Godello’s November tasting notes covered 254 wines; Rosso di Montalcino DOC (29), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020 (73), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna + Etichetta + Altra Tipologia 2020 (50), Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019 (54), older vintages (29), Toscana IGT + other wines (19). The wines tasted in February 2025 now bring the total to 278.

Coming back to Montalcino in the month of February was interesting on many levels. For years Montalcino was the last stop on a week long Anteprime di Toscana press trip before the Consorzio decided to go it alone in 2021. Now there was the comforting feeling of being in the village at a truly quiet time and without the hundreds of media, PR and producers having descended into the area. In November everyone is vying for visits to producers who have only so much bandwidth at that time. In February there is silence and tranquility. When in Montalcino there is often a return to the village at some point during the day. A quick walk to the city centre in between visits from producer drop offs and pick-ups more often than not takes in the Clock tower of Palazzo dei Priori at the heart of the village.

Then there is the question of when is the best time to taste the new releases of Brunello di Montalcino. For many producers November is too early and this was one of the main reasons to move Benvenuto Brunello forward to February. That said the winter is a time when many wines (and also those resting in barrel) close down. Is February a good time to taste Montalcino’s sangiovese and to make decisions that play a role in determining the financial success of the wines? The answers are neither obvious nor necessarily constructive but they do promote healthy debate.

Sangiovese IS Brunello. There was a time when the Sangiovese Grosso clone dominated the vineyards but clonal diversity drives today’s agriculture – At Biondo-Santi their nursery houses 59 of them – all in the name of research to decide what grows best and where. The thing about Sangiovese is that it loves rainfall but does not love really hot seasons. That messes with its natural acidity but Montalcino lives and dies by the variety as the only denomination where every wine is 100 percent Sangiovese. There are other grapes grown around Montalcino but only Sangiovese makes Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino.

A little bit of advanced intel never hurt and so this is a 2024 harvest slide of Sangiovese stems taken by Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chiuse, who incidentally happens to be the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi and Magneli’s vineyards are planted to the the BS-11 Sangiovese clone developed by the family. Note the brown bits on the stems – not an indication of sugar ripeness but rather phenolic ripeness, an essential process that took a long time to develop in the 2024 vintage. September and October were cool and saw more rainfall since 1995. Some producers said you have to go back to 1993 or 1991 to find a similar vintage. But technology, experience and confidence are leaps and bounds ahead in today’s winemaking. The vintage will be a “light” one, with low alcohol wines – some will fall in less than 13 percent though we should expect them to be labeled at 13 and anything above that number will come in at 13.5. The wines will be beautiful, with top Sangiovese acidity and their potential for aging will be great.

On Godello’s recent February 2025 excursion the estates visited were Le Chiuse, Uccelliera, Sesti and Col di Lamo. Here are 24 further tasting notes for Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and other wines tasted over two days. These wines have been added to the Benvenuto Brunello 2024 list which can be viewed by clicking on this link. Montalcino and its wines are in a great position and Canadians should continue to engage with the Brunello, but also increasingly the Rosso. Understanding vintage variation, the work being put in by producers to meet never-ending challenges and how the wines are evolving are all part of the greater awareness and in turn, understanding. Back to the future of Montalcino.

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

“Another unique aspect of ’23 was the colour of the skin – black, not blue, like pinot noir. It usually looks like the colour of the blue ocean and in 2023 it was darker.” The words of Lorenzo Magnelli. Aromatic and fruity, like raspberry and currant but really floral, right form the very beginning.” Truth spoken and persistent from a vigorous season and Magnelli always picks at sunset when the temperatures are lowest. A unique Rosso for Le Chiuse and by extrapolation also the vintage, drinking dutifully and beautifully right away and while it may not seem so structured these tannins are quite sneaky. “A Rosso di Montalcino that goes straight to the point.” You get exactly what it and Lorenzo are saying. You listen and you like the story. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Now to the opposite end, tasted side by side with 2023, because it’s a very structured vintage. “I’m curious because it’s been two years since I tasted this wine,” says Lorenzo Magnelli, also because of 30 percent loss to the April 7th frost. But Magnelli reminds that he is not the proprietor of Le Chiuse – it’s the weather that owns the place. He is in fact its curremt custodian but just as members of the Biondi-Santi family came before him, so will others take over when he is done. How you take your turn, play your part and deal with different seasons is what makes your best wines. The 2021 is still tannic and vertical from the vintage of the last 10 years with the highest acidity, that along with power making this a most unique wine, but also time to be tasting it. The vines were quite stressed and so the tannins are not perfectly ripe but the acidity takes control. A warm one and when skins are thick there is less juice for the tannins and even more importantly acidity being the driver. Never jammy as a result, elastic and ultimately built with more complexity. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2013

First look at 2013 – A vintage missed for some reason. “What do you remember about 2013?” is the question asked to Lorenzo Magnelli. “Always sunny and cold, never too hot. In August there were summer storms with hail in Montosoli but none at Le Chiuse.” Late-picked in October at sunset, as always. First bottle quite evolved and yet the sweetest natural display of fruit with persimmon and strawberry and the second bottle a bit closed, showing almost no evolution and announcing the requiem for time. “For 2013, a great density of tannins and nice because it’s a vintage that shows the right muscles.” Elegant and truly elastic because the acidity keeps snapping the fruit back on the palate. It’s amazing actually and this allows for a release, reminding Lorenzo of 2016 and the brightness of the taste defines the wine because it keeps your palate alive. Vibrancy in a 12 year-old Brunello (which for Magnelli is only two when it’s Riserva), is not too bad. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2015

First look at 2015 Riserva in bottle from Canalicchio di Sopra. A vintage of warmth, impressive tannic structure and in this case acidity acting as catalyst and driver for the wine. The freshness has not missed a beat, fully intact, rising still and bringing the goods from the great Mercatale vineyard. The very fact is that at 10 years the moment arrives to enjoy a bottle of Canalicchio Riserva and here we are at exactly that moment. The window is open. Fineness incarnate, a vintage some say is less important than 2016 but who could not love and appreciate this Brunello all the same. They are different and both great.  Last tasted February 2025

A preview sample. Comes from fruit grown in the oldest two hectare vineyard of Vigna Vecchia Mercatale. The vines were planted in 1987 and in good vintages the potential is gifted, not a matter of grand impact but one of the land, the soil, the brown clay minerals and the elements. And so it’s a matter of longevity and potential, not brut strength. A beautiful example of Riserva, focused, precise and fine. And yet the style is poised in position along a line that includes the Brunello and the Riserva so homogeneity in these soils is more than apparent. This part of Montalcino makes this kind of wine and this house celebrates the consistency. Drink 2022-2036.  Tasted February 2020

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Defines the classicism of a Brunello di Montalcino from its time and also vintage, when vines ripened sangiovese to the optimum, what Francesco Ripcaccioli would call an 8.5 because as a number 10 is both unattainable and obtuse. In full control of its shape and faculties, a 12-plus year-old wine that has shed its tannic freight, integrated acidity into the fabric of design evolving into the nurture of secondary life. Freshness persists but in the way a Brunello of this age and stature should rightly be doing. A terrific example to speak on behalf of a territory’s località but also in the broader sense of and for Montalcino.  Last tasted February 2025

“Reduction is a way to preserve the freshness and the florals of the wine,” tells winemaker Francesco Ripaccioli. Sangiovese is better set up and suited this way and while some Balsamico is now speaking through this ’12 Riserva’s voice, much of the aromatics are still situated in the realm of a high-toned grace.  Tasted February 2020

A year previous to the ’13 Riserva (which will be made exclusively from Montosoli hill fruit) there is the depth of clay and controlled power out of Canalicchio cru vines. The absolute attention paid to patience and time is noted from a Brunello such as this, spoken out within the constructs of fruit extraction and wood usage. The tannins are red meaning they are ripe and request that you give this wine as much time as it gave before going to bottle and then to market. Lush, consistent from start to finish and just hinting at notes not quite Balsamico but something other, something derived from sangiovese grown in the grey clay of La Casaccia. Drink 2021-2032.  Tasted October 2019

Cortonesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Just bottled one week ago and hello to a ’23 that Tommaso Cortonesi says is “very close to the Rosso di Montalcino style that I want for my winery.” Tommaso has been working and honing his concept of Rosso for more than a decade and this first look at its next iteration seems somewhat of an aggressive one. That is the idea and Cortonesi admits how others who faced major 2023 challenges were jealous of the quality and quantity of La Mannella’s harvest. Palate intensity is off the charts, there is a spicy element happening and structure is tops for Rosso. There are Brunello makers who would kill for this combination of substance and style. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Though released six-plus years after the harvest Tommaso Cortonesi says “this is the first Riserva that I bottled more than one year earlier than the rest.” This because he now prefers that the wine refines one extra year in bottle and not in botti. For him Riserva is not necessarily the “top pick” of the vineyards or vintage but rather a Brunello of a different or ulterior approach. “A matter of style,” he explains, “an example of northerly Montalcino.” Now in bottle two years and emphatically not a powerful Riserva but something cooler, more refined and well, fine. There are wines to speak as sangiovese, Brunello or Montalcino and then there are Riserva that amalgamate all three in equal pronouncement, in concentrated concern, executed with reserve and balance to speak as Riserva. Rich and generous, high level quality and quantity of acidity, no hidden fruit or brilliant disguise. Instead there is transparency, focused intensity, everything up front and personable. Like its maker. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted February 2025

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Sister property Voliero opens with easy access, as does Uccelliera but there is more structure in this 2023 Rosso. Was not fully expected but there it is as verticality and while not exactly closed – it’s not an open book by any stretch. Use your imagination to look ahead and be prepared for a sangiovese equipped to unravel over a long and slow period of time. Masterful example for the vintage. “The starting point for the territory and the wine that proves the ability of Montalcino is Rosso.” His explanation and Andrea Cortonesi will never take this wine for granted. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

More expressive now than the Voliero and so the theory of closing down in February is not locked in, but still the cold weather is not ideal for tasting a young Brunello. This expressiveness is attributed to the master blending work of Andrea Cortonesi and the freshness captured form this mix of low-lying, mid and high elevation vineyards. The sapidity and energy are on display, both at full but the graph is a rolling one and there will be many greater days laid out ahead.  Last tasted February 2025

It’s all in the farming and you will all be hard-pressed to find fruit riper yet with an edge, fulsome while pulsing with energy and rolling in texture – though still always elastic. The subtleties may be fine but the difference is unequivocal and here Annata for Brunello is akin to Riserva. This is because the brings 2020 fruit so forward while also extending the high probability of its longevity looking well ahead. Minimum 10 years because the backbone is not only strong but malleable and amenable to change. That’s how you do it my friends. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted November 2024

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

The bottle tasted in November 2024 was clearly less than perfect and not representative. Here the energy rises while intrigue runs seriously high. Picked on the 12th of October and tells Andrea Cortonesi, “there was not a single berry showing a difference in colour, nor were there any that were not perfectly healthy.” First and foremost the tannins are fine, finessed and lengthy. And yet this is a confounding wine because it will rise, fall and then rise and fall again, in the way of a great bottle of Bourgogne. This 2019 Riserva is that kind of wine. There are years laid out ahead before the reaching of its potential, perhaps five, if not even more. Aromatically speaking the ’19 Riserva has arrived at a great moment but somewhere around 2029 the plateau should be reached. Ten years further will see to the best years and life lived for this impeccable sangiovese. Drink 2027-2037.  Last tasted February 2025

Maturity and just a step away to over maturity from Riserva 2019 taking this into a sappy and braised place. Lacking some focus and also structure as a result. This is a bottle that suggests the wine that got away from its maker but would certainly look forward to tasting another bottle.  Tasted November 2024

Voliero Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Fundamental difference between Voliero and Uccelliera are twofold; Sant’Angelo in Colle vineyards versus those in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, non-ownership and ownership. Sill the approach and philosophy are the same. Cooler and fresher for Voliero because of elevation and from 2023 the phenolic development in optimum range with more fullness of fruit and structure inherently pleasant. Earlier drinking Rosso of quick usability. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Three months later and a bit closed, not a shock because this is winter, the days are cold, the vines have no leaves and while there may be no scientific evidence to this – well the wines close down too. Therefore tasting in November is a much better idea.  Last tasted February 2025

A sister sangiovese and a younger one that tries to do everything its older sibling does. That means be a child of most experienced agriculture, even if vines are younger and their acumen has not fully developed. No matter because less concentration is belied by more subtlety and fruit coming around a bend will gleefully join and climb the constructive elements of the wine. Quite fine in its own right, if perhaps crispy, crunchy and excitable. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Sauvignon Vino Bianco 2024, Toscana IGT

Having grown up in Venice, Giuseppe “Giugi” Sesti thought it would be wonderful to have some white wine, in spite of and against the recommendations of everyone in Montalcino. He planted sauvignon vines in the coolest part of the estate to become the house white and the first Montalcino (1990 vineyard) white was born. A sauvignon for those who maybe don’t like the grape and now a 34 year-old plot making for a crisp, fresh, no wood expression, bloody delicious and refreshing white wine. A bit of a leesy character to say that Giugi created something that is now simply glou-glou. Infatti! A legacy piece of Sesti left behind and another reason to say thank you to the grace of his life well lived. On average 3,500 bottles are produced. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosato 2024, Toscana IGT

An OG Rosato first produced in 2004, like the sauvignon a matter of choosing a cooler growing spot for the intention of purity, freshness and this crunchy character. An extrapolation on the idea of L’Ombretta, a light red from Venice that you drank in the summer shade. Made at a time when Rosé was not in Italian fashion and today it represents that which is salty, crispy and refreshing. Made from grapes that might have otherwise be dropped, picked early, pre-dawn, an hour or two of skin contact (although that first 2004 was eight!). Originally presented as “il moglie di Brunello,” the wife of the Grand Vin, with a spinal cord so sharp and attacking the palate, but also the acidity matching to dishes that beg for this sort of wine. Is it still a curiosity? Yes actually because it’s a beautiful thing of its own. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Grangiovese 2024, Toscana IGT

Solo sangiovese going back to a 1980s Giuseppe Sesti portfolio concept that included the sauvignon and Rosato labels, of fresh, crisp and crunchy drinking wines for sipping in the summer shade. From a time when no one really knew the intimacy and intricacies of sangiovese. “Il grande sangiovese,” a playful way with words and a truly gancio varietal wine here from 2024. To only use the word acidity would not be correct because there is more, a sapidity and more of a basilico herbal quality with vibrancy a step ahead of Rosso. Opens quickly with immediate invitation. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

“Rosso for us has always been a very important wine, despite the Anglo concept of it being considered a “Rouge de Beaune.” A meaningless expression in the eyes of Elisa Sesti because I might indicate sangiovese unqualified to be Brunello. “Nonsense!” Sesti’s vineyards did not succumb to the Perenospera (mildew) disaster because the vineyards lie in a valley, although careful attention had to be given. The forest is the lung and there was no law as to the what or how of guaranteed control, but still the losses were mitigated. Rosso is therefore a matter of quantity and quality with this being equipped with some impressive fruit, a true macchia mimicking the cacti that grow and for Rosso a serious structured wine. Gripped by tension and intensity, not quite open and looking to live a long life. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Intensity runs high at this stage and while the time of year might be when the most recent Brunello releases could close down, such is not the case with Sesti 2020. That said it was a bit early to taste back in November. And so when we learn how to read Brunello then we can handle the exercise with some acumen. At least more than how we managed yesterday.  Last tasted February 2025.

Quiet, demure and always the sepia toned style of sangiovese of a soft, retro-nostalgic aesthetic, yet blessed with controlled and restrained energy. Flowing, graceful, always mindful and yet youthful and so a bit troubled. Fruit at elevation with wind blowing through its canopies, expressed in this Brunello di Montalcino walking with a purposed gait, always just a few centimetres off the ground. Weightless in this sense but at the end of a glass the flavours, sliding while caressing textures and then feelings pout forth before settling back down to the ground. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

Winter 2025 is closing time, even more so than the 2020 Brunello, in a state of quiet flux and pre next moment exuberance. Do not even think about opening 2019 Phenomena any time soon. Certainly not before the fall of 2026.  Last tasted February 2025

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038.  Tasted November 2024

Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

First look at Giovanna Neri’s 2022 Rosso at a time when others are already starting to pour their ‘23s but hers will not be ready for several months. The decision to stay the course with ’22 is correct because the bones of this Rosso keep it sturdy and the acidity maintains positive vibrancy. Crystal clear, correct and a Rosso to age a few years. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Loving the vibrancy of the 2020 Brunello, a sangiovese of excitement and persistence without any moment of closed behaviour. No change from November.  Last tasted February 2025

Poised, striking, quiet and composed, hard to figure but my goodness curiosity is piqued. Tall drink of sangiovese water, elixir of Brunello, confident, beautiful and sure. Strikes a varietal pose, statuesque yet fluid, malleable as it needs to be, equipped to transform and age with grace. Wood is known, applied with expertise, for more than just appearance but to explain this to be a Brunello 2020 of and for to enjoy a great experience. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted November 2024

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A Diletta 2019

Fruit for A Diletta comes from the mid-slope of Col di Lamo’s east facing hill but in vintages when it’s not made (and Riserva is therefore also passed over) then the fruit is blended into the Brunello. A cru selection and beautiful composed in 2019.  Last tasted February 2025

A special label for the estate and so very different as a sangiovese than either the Annata or Riserva of 2019. There is no missing the vineyard and climate because a special kind of Machia Medditerranea exudes from out of the evergreen perfume. No confusion whatsoever and a quality but also demand of tannins that Riserva will here show. This Etichetta is a special wine and clearly represents a singular expression that could only be of itself.  Tasted November 2024

“A Diletta,” dedicated to Giovanna Neri’s daughter and a Brunello of one vineyard only two hectares in size. The fruit is indeed richer, deeper and in a way more vibrant than the Annata but it’s also equipped with finer tannins that stand up to the fleshiness of the sangiovese. There is also more wood involved and that aspect will need a few years to melt, settle and resolve. Could be five or more before that work is finished. This carries a feeling that is usually one from Riserva conceived Brunello so that should give you an idea of where it is and where it will go. Milk chocolate on the finish. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted November 2023

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Retrospective look 11-plus years back at a vintage when tasted in 2017 was considered not much more than average, though personally speaking the charm, defference and grace at that time was felt with raw emotion. The ‘13s are a curious lot that age with the widest range of style plus character with Col di Lamo’s being an exotically charged sangiovese of aromatic character and complexity. More wood than recent vintages though here it has melted into the delicate fabric of the wine. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Warm vintage and yet so much vibrancy from Brunello 2012. Twelve-plus years forward and still shaping into its secondary personality, showing with grip, energy and intensity. Red fruit persists with liquorice and dark chocolate but acidity does so well to keep everything in view. Surprisingly seductive and true when it is said that Brunello at this age can be a selective lot. As are we. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

The first vintage was 2003 but for argument’s sake we’ll call this the first important commercial vintage of Giovanna Neri’s Brunello career on a piece of Torrenieri land at the northeastern edge of Montalcino. The house above is Colombaio but there are several places with that or a variation on that name and so she chose the hillock (Col) of Lamo. The colour of ’06 looks like to be the eyes of age but the nose is vibrant, of wild strawberry and frutta di bosco, quite fruity and persistent. The palate flavours are wild and mature but the acidity is pure sangiovese. A fully resolved wine well into secondary and arriving at tertiary, but it’s a true joy to taste. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Good to go!

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