L’Etna at 3,357m

L’Etna has caused its share of destruction, yet the volcano has also created beauty and in so many ways. This past May the opportunity arose to ascend and stand near the tip of the volcano’s 3,357m of elevation. After Kilimanjaro and Bromo, walking the ice and screes of this third volcano has now been crossed off of the bucket list. To see the awe, walk across its basalt sand, breathe in its gassy air, trace the paths of wrath caused by its powerful magma flows, including that of 2002, its most recent from 2,900 metres above sea level – it kind of puts life and all the incredible Etna wines into perspective.

Cottanerà

Related – Notes from 2019 Sicilia en Primeur

The Etna wine story is nothing short of incredible because its modern day rise to major wine prominence is less than three decades old. Just 25 years ago there were a mere 400 hectares and today more than 1,300 planted on the muntagna. Yet at the end of the 19th century records tell us there were more than 50,000 hectares of vines. The market for wines made on these basalt slopes collapsed over the next 150-plus years as there was neither profit nor foresight in the promise of grape growing. The end of Italy’s mezzadrira system of land ownership and farming spread from north to south and by the 1970s and 1980s there became a renewed interest in Mount Etna. Today there are vineyards located on ancient lava flows and also those of eruptions having occurred in the last 100 years. There are estates risen from the ruins of the historical palmento and natural wonderlands like Parco Naturale dell’Etna and Parco Statella.

Sicilia en Primeur

Related – L’Etna and Parco Statella saved my Sicilian quarantine

“Etna is and island within an island,” explains Valeria Agosta Constanzo, “because of its particular micro climate.” While most of Italy suffered beneath an unprecedented heat wave with no rain in 2017, Etna’s weather was anything but hot. Costanzo’s position in Contrada Santo Spirito is unique and the soils are of the finest volcanic sands from the 1879 eruption. An island within an island, within an island. The same might be said for Firriato’s pre-phylloxera vines in fine basalt at Cavanera Etnea but also those of Tenuta delle Tere Nere’s La Vigna di Don Peppino; the gnarly vines growing on solid rock in Feudo di Mezzo, Giuseppe Russo’s San Lorenzo, the grand cru amphitheatre that is Pietradolce’s Barbagalli and Planeta’s 1614 eruption soils at Sciaranuova; Cottanerà’s new cru vineyard called “Scalette” and the incredulity of growing up to and beyond 1000m of elevation at Guardiola.

Federico Lombardo in the Firriato experimental vineyard explaining the science of staving off Phylloxera

Related – All the wines of Sicily

The 2010 introduction of an MGA (menzione geografiche aggiuntive) system for reds followed in the footsteps of Barolo and Barbaresco in Piemonte. Then in 2011 the whites followed with Alberto Graci’s Arcurìa acting as the first to carry the recognition. This haute positioning was a far cry from the pistemutta wines that used to be made for the local market, light, of less maceration, lower structure and made for quick selling. Wines made by the contadino using old-school winemaking techniques. It’s revival is in the hands of Frank Cornelissen. But on L’Etna the new wine scene is more about electric energy and life. “Etna is a place of paradox,” tells Graci. “Part Africa and part Europe, with cold climate flowers and cacti.”

Related – Sicily’s varietal concentration: Measuring an island’s wealth in grape varieties, a journey through its winelands and tasting Sicilia en Primeur

“Sustainability is not about the vines and leaves,” Graci continues, “it’s about the forests.” The Alcantara Valley is a place of sustainability because it is home to so much biodiversity. Not a cultivated one but a wild one. Wild herbs like fennel, chamomile, calendula, allium and oxeye daisy. Flowers, dominated by the ginestra but especially fruit trees like apricot, chestnut and apple. This is all related to and essential for what diversity is created in the vineyard. In fact on Etna North there is almost too much wild competition., for water and nutrients, yet nothing has really been removed or destroyed. The need for biodynamics has never been great because this is not a territory that needs to be restored. Life has always flourished and the use of chemicals was much lower as compared to most other wine growing regions of Italy.

Etna Wine Map

The task of mapping Etna’s communes, villages, contrade and vineyards has been a complicated and formidable one but a Taiwanese journalist named Xiaowen Huang spent several years assembling the information and the substance for this great cartographic endeavour. The first edition of the first comprehensive map of the Etna Contrada was established in 2019 and recently published in 2022. Huang’s efforts have not been recognized by the entirety of the Etna cognoscenti but those who know are aware of its significance. The exercise was made even more difficult because geographical lines are a contentious matter and not all of L’Etna’s estate owners agree along contrada lines, nor to a producer do they harbour the same opinion on where elevation lines should be revised as it pertains to DOC status. Traditionally these were drawn based on existing roads and natural barriers such as rivers and streams. It would be foolish to dismiss each and every claim and also hard to ignore the liberties taken by some producers whose vineyard holdings straddle recognized demarcations and so there are some DOC wines that take their home field advantage. Still there are others labeled as Terre Siciliane IGT when their claims are likely as valid as some DOC wines. The stakes are high and challenging for such a young region. As it stands, these are the facts, rules and numbers.

• Established as a DOC in 1968
• 1,184 ha
• 33,750 hl / 375,000 cases of production
• 133 contrade

Disciplinare: Minimum and maximum elevation: 400-1000m

Bianco: Minimum 60 percent carricante; maximum 40 percent catarratto; maximum 15 percent other allowable non aromatic white grapes

Superiore: Minimum 80 percent carricante plus other allowable non aromatic white grapes and can be produced only in the commune of Milo

Rosso: Minimum 80 percent nerello mascalese, maximum 20 percent nerello cappuccio; maximum 10 percent other allowable non aromatic white grapes

Rosato: Minimum 80 percent nerello mascalese, maximum 20 percent nerello cappuccio; maximum 10 percent other allowable non aromatic white grapes

Contrada Rampante

Communes

South Slope: Biancavilla, Santa Maria di Licodia, Ragalna, Bel Passo, Nicolosi, Mascalucia, Pedara, Trecastagni, Acireale, Aci Sant’Antonio and Viagrande

East Slope: Zafferana Etnea, Milo, Giarre, Mascali, Sant’Alfio and Santa Venerina

North Slope: Linguaglossa, Castiglione di Sicilia, Randazzo, Bronte and Piedimonte Etneo

• List of contrade: Acquafredda, Airone, Alboretto–Chiuse del Signore, Algerazzi, Allegracore, Arcuria, Arena, Arrigo, Baldazza, Barbabecchi, Blandano, Bocca d’Orzo, Bragaseggi, Calderara, Calderara Sottana, Campo Rè, Cancelliere–Spuligni, Cannarozzo, Canne, Caristia, Carpene, Carranco, Caselle, Cavaliere, Cavotta (Treccastagni), Cavotta (Zafferana), Chiusa Politi, Ciarambella, Città Vecchia, Civita, Collabbasso, Cottanera, Croce Monaci, Crocittà, Dafara Galluzzo, Diciasettesalme, Dragala Gualtieri, Eremo di S. Emilia, Feudo, Feudo di Mezzo, Fleri, Fornazzo, Fossa Gelata, Fossa San Marco, Friera, Giunta, Grasà, Grotta Comune, Grotta della Paglia, Guardiola, Imbischi, Imboscamento, Iriti, Lavina, Maiorca, Malpasso, Mantra Murata, Marchesa, Martinella, Mille Cocchita, Monaci, Monte Gorna, Monte Ilice, Monte Rosso, Monte S. Nicolò, Monte Serra, Montedolce, Montelaguardia, Moscamento, Muganazzi, Muri Antichi, Palmellata, Panella–Petto Dragone, Passo Chianche, Passo Pomo, Paternostro, Petrulli, Pettinociarelle, Piano dei Daini, Piano dell’Acqua, Piano Filici, Pianodario, Pianogrande, Picciolo, Pietra Marina, Pietralunga, Pietrarizzo, Pignatone, Pignatuni, Pino, Piricoco, Pisanello, Pisano, Pomiciaro, Pontale Palino, Praino, Primoti, Rampante, Rapilli, Rinazzo, Rocca d’Api, Ronzini, Salice, San Giovannello, San Lorenzo, San Teodoro, Santo Spirito, Sarro, Scacchieri, Schigliatore, Sciambro, Sciara Nuova, Sciarelle, Scimonetta, Spadatrappo, Statella, Stella, Taccione, Torreguarino, Torretta, Tre Monti, Trimarchisa, Vaccarile, Valle Galfina, Valle San Giacomo, Vena, Verzella, Vignagrande, Villagrande, Viscalori, Volpare, Zottorinotto, Zucconerò.

Godello with the AIS Sommeliers in Taormina

The 2023 edition of Sicilia en Primeur was held in the second week of May, culminating with tastings, masterclasses and dinners in the extraordinary seaside hilltop village of Taormina. The annual event is made possible by Sicilia DOC, Assovini Sicilia and AB Comunicazione. I spent the better part of five days visiting producers aboard L’Etna, followed by tasting through many more of the mountain’s wines by way of the Assovini and AIS Sommelier assisted table-side service. Visits on this particular trip were made to Alta Mora, Calcagno, Cottanerà, Firriato, Girolamo Russo, Graci, I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna, Quantico, Palmento Costanzo, Pietradolce, Tenuta delle Terre Nere and Vini Scirto. These are my notes on the 150 Etna wines tasted and it is the cumulative assessment that offers a Godello’s eye view of the current state of Etna wines.

Alta Mora

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Solid and well made Etna Bianco in the ways of respect and tradition, ample, fulsome, substantial and structured for a wine that will drink well three-plus years forward. Citrus mainly, both lemon and lime, cool, not quite minty but surely like fresh summer basil and then a pinch of salt at the finish. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2021

Nothing but carricante from three fruit sources, Contrada Arrigo in Linguaglossa plus Pietramarina and Verzella in Castiglione di Sicilia. No shortage of fully ripened varietal character for a Bianco of fruity ambition and most everything else secondary to that ideal. While other traditional examples express as much salinity and austerity as fruit you can’t really say that about this modern iteration. More delicacy than that which describes a delicate wine. A tour de force of magnanimous behaviour upon the palate, verging on Bianco ostentatious. Fine work from the Cusumano property. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2015

Back in 2015 there was no Arrigo fruit so just the two contrade in Castiglione di Sicilia at 600m of elevation. Without the higher Linguaglossa sourcing there is that reason plus age that puts this in higher richness, ripening and sun-drenched character. Holding well and the vintage acidity does well to manage the excess of full, substantial and near over the top fruit. Freshness is still there and fruit is everything. Neither croccante nor scorrevole but something other. Gelido I would say. Would have been just perfect in its secondary window about a year ago. Drink 2023.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosato DOC 2021

Straight ahead nerello mascalese from the Contrada of Solicchiata in Castiglione di Sicilia where Alta Mora also uses this fruit for the Etna Rosso. While this and some other Etna Rosato are southern French “styled” there is always the hyper specific mountain umami that puts these wines in a place of their own. More than crunchy as an example and the length leaves quite a Rosé impression. It’s an extremely well made and satisfying Rosato. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Only nerello mascalese with fruit from all the contrada sources; Solicchiata, Feudo di Mezzo, Verzella and Guardiola, all the young vines and what they together can effect for the most modernized example of a traditional wine. Feels like layers upon layers of mascalese delicasse, not compressed or compact but like many textiles fallen upon one another to create a many layered fabric. Once again it is ripeness that directs the whole and this is something in the Etna Rosso idiom that explains what the mountain will be for red wines but in the most direct, clean, correct and obvious way. Not a Rosso of fantasy but basic reality. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC 2016

Four years in bottle has ushered a next era of character but not one customized by earth or basaltic soil per se, no it’s still a matter off fruit layered upon fruit, over more fruit. Some dried notes now, like wild strawberry, currants and pomegranate. Showing dusty and high in acidity, with a drift of ripeness away from the original state of freshness. In very good condition and the vintage was clearly top quality though the wine would have been in an ideal state just a year ago. Still it will offer tasty and moderately complex drinking qualities for another year or two. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2019

As with all of Alta Mora’s Etna Rosso the only grape in all the wines is the one and only delicate beauty that comes from nerello mascalese and here off of 100-plus year-old vines in the Castiglione di Sicilia contrada of Feudo di Mezzo. In many ways this 2019 is closer to the 2015 tasted side by side, more so than any vintage in between (including 2016) and looking forward to 2021. The is all about warmth, fruit in consistently variegate layers and immediate gratification. That said these three to four years of aging have brought this Rosso into what must be its perfect drinking window. You will not find more cherries in an Etna Rosso to see it drink like so many other important Italian reds; nebbiolo and sangiovese namely and yet the dusty, crunchy and candied roses mix just put this in Feudo di Mezzo. That is the consistency of the most repeatable cru on Etna Nord. Some austerity in the tannins will help the 2019 to age well. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2017

Quite mature and having arrived at a soft and amenable place it is this Feudo di Mezzo that drinks with well-aged distinction. Fruit was no doubt ripe and macerated for full effect, matched by wood ageing to emerge seasoned as baked goods should. The style is in the vein of fruit-filled dark chocolate, impressive and giving the feeling of a super healthy, full-bodied red wine. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2016

Going back another four vintages brings this Feudo di Mezzo four plus four forward because the ripeness of vintage and capture of exceptional fruit can’t help but double down on expediency. This has in fact passed over to stage two but remains early in that epoch for a nerello mascalese really aiming to please two camps; those who love it as youthful as possible and also those who wants some developed delicasse. The new fruit aromas are quite perfumed, like scraped blood orange skin and ginger-spiked dark chocolate., The wood is noticeable still though the tannins have softened and sweetened. This will have great appeal to a crowd wanting substance and body, but also the caché of age. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2019

Then along comes Guardiola, the awe-inspiring contrada at the high point out over Castiglione di Sicilia, vineyards set above 800m upwards of 900-plus though still qualifying for consortia delineated Rosso DOC status. The cooler climate is juxtaposed against full-factored solar radiation collection and transmitted to nerello mascalese so that a wine from these heights still comes away ripe and rich. It must achieve its numbers to qualify as an Alta Mora Rosso, regardless of cru or how high up the volcano it lays. Make no mistake that this is a volcanic wine, muscular, dusty and taut, ripped even, as opposed to a mountain example, fit, in shape and beautiful. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2016

Quite mature yet holding strong though the warmth and fruit cumulate substance makes for a big mouthful of nerello mascalese. This is is fine shape though it has done quite a bit of living already and these next two to three years will express full on secondary character. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Giusy and Franco Calcagno

Calcagno

Calcagno Etna Bianco DOC Ginestra 2021

“Mountain wine,” says Giusy Calcagno. Not volcanic because the Italian montagna is the correct correllation. The feminine as opposed to the masculine power of the volcano. Giusi, Franco and grandfather Vicenzo. The late Andrea Franchetti was intrinsically connected to Giusy uncle the winery and the formation of Etna DOC. From Contrada Volpare, mostly carricante with some grecanico in a Bianco considered a Calcagno classic, aged only in stainless steel tanks. Equal parts salty mineral and phenols but more than anything fruit perfumes as effusive and aromatic as any of the Etna Nord ilk. Still no matter what other characters would like to join and take turns leading the dance, well it is the terroir that wins out in the end. The finish is just so salty. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2019

Primazappa, the first movements, moving the soil, rifondare. The name refers to the knowledge of how to cultivate the vineyard (with a hoe) which is Calcagno’s expertise and their contiguous sustainability for making wines on L’Etna. Sees stainless steel tank and also barriques, barrels that were once used for reds but deemed not ideal for nerello mascalese. Same fruit source and batch as Ginestra but with wood involved. The perfumes are still intact no matter the barrel and though there is clearly more richness than Ginestra there is also freshness and the presence of gregarious aromatics that are so high level specific to Calcagno. The scents of local herbs and perennials are part of the mix and these scents never relent. The flavours are fresh as the day they were bottled and time has only served to accentuate and spice up the character. And there is a boatload of mountain personality.  Last tasted May 2023

Primazappa comes from the commune of Milo, incidentally the only Etna area where it is allowed to bottle as Etna Bianco Superiore. A varietal carricante off of 30-40 year-old vines grown on both alberello and spalliera at 850m, picked in late September. The volcanic soils are quite weathered, decomposed and sandy, with a decided micro-mineral effect on this wood-aged and seriously flinty Bianco. Takes on a whole new appellative and stylistic meaning, clearly designed to age and enter another new Bianco world apart. Simultaneously smouldering and buzzing with mineral salts, fleshing if not yet quite fleshy. The curiosity and potentiality factors in this Bianco are developing and climbing off the charts. A bit wild now, it should settle into something really special. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2017

The first vintage of Primazappa made with the carricante that is indeed superior from a local grower and here aged half in barriques once used for nerello mascalese. No hue of flavours transferred in this first vintage and there is some maturity, especially as compared to 2019. Part vintage variation and part better understanding of how to make wood-aged carricante by the time the third vintage came about. Advancing but so much fruit and a long, long finish. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Riterza Bianco 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

Bianco mazzerata, 10 days skin contact but made from the same carricante grapes dealt with so differently and yet there is so much mouthfeel and the flavour profile is eccentric, if well under control. Not exactly spooky yet there is a true piquancy and texturally speaking this makes hay while touching every part of the palate. Don’t sleep on the open aromatics because they are special, of beeswax, honey, mandarin orange and fennel. Complexity is special and clarity like looking through glass. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Rifunniri Bianco Da Nerello 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

The experimental white as a revolutionary idea that Giusy Calcagno’s uncle wished for and made happen. Just as it sounds, a white wine vinified by red grapes (nerello mascalese) and surely more phenolic than the carricante-based wines – but also sapid. The acidity is a bit lower and pH higher to result in this mimicry of the orange wine concept yet harvest is a couple of weeks earlier than nerello for Rosso. There are some sharp edges to this Bianco and with a few more vintages under service this will round and smooth further. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Etna Rosato DOC Romice Delle Sciare 2021

Rosato that only sees steel and the name refers to Etna flowers that grow upwards to the Ginestra. Rosato of healthy platinum rose colour and a high level of aromatics, expressly floral and saline. A very good vintage of Rosato and made for pizza in the al forno oven at Calcagno. Delicious pink stuff that is bloody difficult, well actually impossible to resist. Irresistible, said in Italian. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2019

One of three single Etna Contrada Rosso from Calcagno and the smallest on Etna Nord. Spends one year in big barrel followed by six months in bottle before release. This 2019 is the current release. Arcurìa is a sandy soil with some of the oldest vines, from 70-100 years old. Only Calcagno and Graci make a Rosso from this contrada. So glycerin and an almost oily character but my is this a salt, sandy soil driven nerello, with mostly mascalese but also colour advancing (10 percent) cappuccio. There is a tar and roses element here which is akin to another great Italian but the comparison ends there. Still a sharpness here and a tightly would Rosso so I would personally wait another two years to allow this highly specific compassion acid plus tannic structure to settle in.  Last tasted May 2023

Arcurìa contrada is a late October harvested cru for nerello mascalese grown at elevations between 600 and 700m, on five types of multi-layered volcanic soils associated with the village of Passopisciaro. The Calcagno profile is consistent with Calderara in red fruit as if cherries especially are prominent and yet sour-savoury and botanical tonic elements change the complexion of this particular Rosso. Less generous and effusive if more serious and even structured results. No, not the same wine at all, even if it is distinguished as being from Calcagno. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2016

The first vintage for a cru Rosso for Calcagno aged in Botti Grandi, now seven years old and showing remarkably well. Still some energy and pulse here despite the full on maturity. Acids are special and there are some faint droplets or hints of porcini jus involved but my goodness this impresses above and beyond expectation. Right where you might want it to be. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2019

All three contradas are built upon different epochs and therefore colours of lava stone with Feudo di Mezzo being the whitest of the three. Same vinification and if I thought that Arcurìa was sharp, taut and edgy then get a load of this FdM. More tar, less roses, even more structure and heavy on the stoniness. More tannins but not as austere and so there is perhaps more potential but clearly in a different way. Big wine with endless potential.  Last tasted May 2023

Feudo di Mezzo is neither Calderara nor Arcurìa, here much smaller plots of alberello vineyards with their twisted and ancient vines 60, 70 even 80 years or more growing at 600m.The nerello msacalese often shares space with less dominant and texture thickening cappuccio but most notable is the salumi and red fruit skin musk aromatics of these Rosso. There is nothing like Feudo di Mezzo, characterful, distinct, knowable and just plain funky. In a 70s bass beat way, not quite G.Q. but perhaps Love Train style. Calcagno’s is really special FdM, reaching for greatness and making itself noticed. Don’t sleep on this cru “‘cause if you miss it, I feel sorry, sorry for you, well.” Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2019

Calderera are the oldest soils of the three Contrada Rosso and Calcagno farms just one hectare of essentially all century vines. The experience of these plants and their abilities make for less aggressive if still very powerful tannins. The mouthfeel is not quite as velvety as Arcurìa but it is its one character and the overal effect is extreme elegance.  Last tasted May 2023

Calcagno is the life work of Franco, Gianni and Giusy Calcagno, two brothers and a daughter, first vintage being 2006, now a full grown concern. From the Contrada Calderara the mixed soil consists of black pumice and basalt. Perhaps made most famous by Cottanera but never sleep on the passion and torch passing into this generation of Calcagno hands. Cherries and red fruit in concentration could never be dismissed and in fact must be celebrated in a nerello mascalese of sweet intoxication. I really wanna know this Rosso, I really wanna go with this mascalese, my sweet Calderara. Fresh and grounded, “effusive” and “espansivo,” meeting at both poles, one mission gained. Implosive Rosso from the famiglia and one to savour after many other wannabes have walked heavy in their soles and commercialized their souls. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted April 2022

Godello at Cottanerà

Cottanerà

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Über freshness for the arch classic Etna Bianco ideal, citrus and stone fruit through also unique for the juicy bite into a fresh pear. Pristine harvest and premium classicism as a balanced ballet between fruit and acidity. A joy to drink, no matter the moment or occasion. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2021

Contrada specific Etna Bianco, a matter of specializing carricante from a zone of old vines with some catarratto involved for a much more intense and taut iteration. Thinking of Calderara in terms of fruit is not the order of assessment because concentration goes above and beyond, into basaltic stoniness and the other nutrient elements that vines seek for their character and complexity. A much different kind of freshness to the Classico, here more about many energies fusing for a Bianco that buzzes and invigorates. The said there are stylish qualities and also a fine-streaked polish to this Calderara. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Francesco Cambria, Cottanerà

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2021

Truthfully and veritably Etna Rosso classicism, classy and stylish, just about the pinnacle of what an ethereal Classico can be. An accumulation of 17 places within a place that layer, integrate and fuse like the tightest 17-piece orchestra. How else to describe an Etna red that could and should be in display of so many moving pieces. Not the case, in fact like clay soils there is compaction and a sponginess that presses harder, yet with enough give for elastic texture. That is the nature off this Rosso, generous and built upon more fruit layers than most in the area. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2019

Uncanny how Feudo di Mezzo is so able and capable of such a consistent style, softer as things go, relatively speaking and all the while generous as any. Feudo di Mezzo is expressive of fruit and earth perfumes but more than anything it is mouthfeel and length that give the contrada its high level exceptionalities. The nerello mascalese may not be the most typical of all the Versante Nord vineyards but it is easier to qualify and conceptualize the source, from producer to producer. There are 10 of them (I do believe) and Cottanerà’s is expressive of more up front fruit than most. Also a piquancy and spice cupboard set of accents that determine style within style and character. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2017

So curious to taste 2017 after 2013, especially considering how a vintage might sku expectation to see this as equally mature. Far from it because acids are spectacular, like certain parts of other Italian wine-growing areas but Etna is its very own incomparable climate entity. As such the vintage persists as a strange yet beautiful and pitch perfect one. It seems the Cottanerà team deduced that highest of high caste fruit was on order from the cru to define the producer and so there was no holding back, thus creating a structured wine that should very likely glide through the ages. The length on this wine is equalled only by its stylish grace. Serious yet generous, ambitious and confident, but tension creates something exceptional. Acids as mentioned are the catalyst and yet we don’t always talk about Etna Rosso in such terms. And we should.  Last tasted May 2023

Arguably the estate’s finest parcel of nerello mascalese grown at 800m in the commune of Randazzo, Lavico. A 2017 of weight, density, or as it may be called importante. An Etna Rosso of ruby-orange bellocio hue, passione di legno, exotically spiced by the barrel, warm and very vintage driven. Closed, più giovani then many, needing years to blossom. Tannins are thick and seemingly esculent but resist the temptation and let them rest. A coalescence of red fruits, skins included, macerated at 28 degrees for 30 days. Circles back to the florals, in violet plus spices, caper and brush. Inevaso Rosso. Drink 2023-2031.  Tasted October 2021

Cottanerà

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2013

A most important contrada/cru for Cottanerà, as much as any and thus the decision to bottle it as Riserva, not the most common appellative add-on for Etna wines. Low yielding and a Rosso of extra-level concentration with as much glycerol as likely to be found anywhere in the territory. Funny vintage in certain ways, considered truly warm and one clearly age-worthy. Showing some maturity with a moment of blood orange and also what feels like saffron, though as an aromatic note the former is far greater than the latter. Touch of residual vanilla and creamy dark chocolate linger with the most minor tannic austerity and a shot of late expressed espresso. Complex Zottorinotto no matter how you assess it. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato

Firriato Gaudensius Rosé Etna DOC 2019

From the Latin gaudeo, the feeling of “deep pleasure or satisfaction.” From the warm and generous 2019 vintage, harvested on October 9th, later than most would imagine, The expectation of complex aromatics is warranted and fulfilled. The colour of lightly pressed fruit and florals most importantly captured. From lemon to orange, scraped skin mostly, then the self-professed pomegranate to be sure. Taut and compact though happily never bracing with high level extract and therefore freshness. Between 7 and 8 g/L of residual sugar and therefore Brut in style/classification. Hides every bit of that sugar with equal, opposite and supportive acid. There were 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Gaudensius Blanc De Noir Etna DOC

Has been four years since last tasting this traditional method sparkling made from nerello mascalese and still the fresh green nasturtium seed is right there with the oranges and lemons on the nose. The palate finds that star anise and yeasty notes to raise the level and flavour intensity for a white made from red grapes so bloody satisfying to sip. Gastronomy in a glass as well, insalata mista, peppery and with so many vegetal notes that pique the palate. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Mount Etna, nerello mascalese and downright intensity are the triad of notation from a sparkling wine of great freshness and drive. The lime notes are there from start to finish and there’s a reductive and peppery green apple bite, with an amazing note of green nasturtium seed. This would pair so well with a salad augmented by salty chèvre or feta with nuts, seeds and fresh nasturtium. Like a Brut Zero from Franciacorta, in a way, with great length and potential right here.  Tasted May 2019

Firriato Gaudensius Metodo Classico Pas Dosé 2017, Terre Siciliane IGT

Does not classify as Etna DOC because when the regulations were written there was no inclusion of the style that is Pas Dosé. Ages a minimum 60 months on the lees and fruit is taken from a single vineyard. Some top quality base wines from previous vintages are added but the percentage is moot because regulations or lack thereof do not effect the wine philosophy. Certainly a more stark, taut and austere sparkling wine but one that proves dosage is less than necessary to make quality sparkling wine from nerello mascalese grown on Etna’s volcanic soils. In fact the grape is exposed for everything it is and can be. Floral and here the mix of red fruit, florals, yeasty brioche and blanched nuts is a matter of full expression. The most toasty and botanically herbal of the three bollicini. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Ripa Di Scorciavacca Contrada Verzella 2021

Reductive for Bianco and even more so phenolic so give the glass some agitation to break down walls and shed light on the carricante situation. Melon and citrus, almost a star anise plus star fruit character, in fact the latter is very much in play. Acids are just fine enough to keep the spirit alive. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Cavanera Etna Rosso DOC 2018

Cavanera Etnea is the most elevated and active volcano in the EU. At Cavanera the soil is what is called Sabia Volcanica – literally volcanic sand. Like black earth but texturally it’s more a matter of fine sandy pebbles. The first vintage of Etna DOC was 1994 and Firriato farms 90 hectares, 78 in production, north and northeast on the mountain. Castiglione Sicilia, Passopisciaro and Randazzo are the locales, spreading across 12 contradas. Firriato explores nerello mascalese in so many different ways, always capitalizing on its aromatic diversity. Leaf thinning is completed ahead of blooming to maximize energy and sugar transitions to the bunches. The 2018 is a well pressed, macerated and expressed nerello mascalese, of full on black cherry styled with pulp and stones sharing aromatic space. Suave texture and silky tannins, full flavoured with citrus of multi origins, including blood orange and that which imagines red citrus; currants and pomegranate. Candied roses, peppery piques and baking spices, Christmas cake in a glass, with boozy raisins and plum. Wildly flavourful, well-wooded and finishing with charred herbs, eggplant and red peppers. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Cavanera Etna Rosso DOC Rovo della Coturnie 2018

Right proper red fruit, funk impacting the nature and style of this Rosso in which wood is more a spice element than anything else. A Rosso of piques and energy, tang and the right kind of tart. “Rovo della Coturnie” refers to the brambles of a plant and yes there is some of that brambly character, not unlike certain zinfandel. Curious and particular Rosso in any case and one to have a look at. Pretty much ready to go. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Cavanera Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Signum Aetne 2014

Named for Firriato’s pre-phylloxera vines project with which human interaction with the vineyard are limited as much as possible, essentially zero vineyard handling. As for phylloxera there were conditions in the Verzella vineyard that nullified the attacks and allowed the vines to survive. Only one of the louse’s 18 cycles attacks vine roots. Because the elliptical volcanic soil acts more like sand than soil (because that is what it is) it does not allow the phylloxera to efficiently develop the radicultural ananocycle (parthenogenesis). Also because between 600 and 1000m it faces climatic obstacles. Above 1000m it fails. This example of nerello mascalese is much more naked and transparent but it is tobacco smoky and multi-spiced, with no lack for cocoa and espresso. Any wood aging hyperbolizes because of the nature of this ancient DNA’s fruit. Like chewing on fresh liquorice root for minutes and the 24 months spent in 700L tonneaux has only acted to fortify and bring so much spice of life. Spent six years further in bottle to bring it to this place today. Fascinating, an Etna Rosso of great depth, macerated black cherry and the finest Amaro. Rich and deep with a feeling that the fine volcanic sand that looks just like black earth high in composted organic matter would. Just 3,500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2022

For Bianco it is the single vineyard of Nerina that gives not just carricante but also the allowable varieties of grecanico, catarratto, inzolia and minella. This is important because it creates a field blend style of Etna Bianco, even if these other varieties only add up to a maximum 15 percent of the whole. A much more wholesome, fulsome and layered example because of what the vineyard delivers, so far away from some of the lean, salty and linear Bianci of the area. Yet there are moments of all those aspects and then viscosity, generosity and even a bit of extra balancing weight. Length and greatness, actually. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Apposite to Nerina is the Etna Bianco reality of San Lorenzo, leaner and more direct but more so flinty, stone struck, taut and intense. Here cariccante really takes charge in a truly scintillant Bianco of style. All of San Lorenzo goes into tonneaux, which gives it an unmistakable note of fumé. The Etna version of growth-level Bordeaux Blanc in which sémillon is the star. Austere when this youthful, immovable but with dry extract and white lightning tannin literally crawling off the proverbial charts. Citrus is the main thing as far as fruits are considered while San Lorenzo’s stone and trace elements are the profound parts that take full control. The most croccante of all Etna Versante Nord whites and one to surely develop flinty and potentially petrol-like notes. Drink 2024-2032.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato DOC 2022

Rosato from nerello mascalese is sale e salasso, pale and purposed, of acids in charge without the necessity for sapidity aboard the palate. These acids work the side of the mouth, zigzagging from the walls to the sides of the palate and back again, up and down, never seeming to stop. An incredible feign of sweetness even though the mind knows this to be dry and even austere. Part of us wants to admit this Rosato to be as important as the Bianco and the Rosso but know full well it is instead a perfect compromise of the two. Delicious and satisfying is what it is. Will age well. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2021

‘A Rina is Giuseppe Russo’s Classico, that is to say a blend of vineyards and vinifications, as traditional a followed concept as it gets for the zone. Shows through generosity and acts as far from austere as it gets while vintage surely has as much to say as anything else. Scents of roses and the sweet sapidity of wild herbs that dominate the landscape. Barriques and tonneaux play equal parts toward the eventual chosen assemblage. There may have never been and while it can’t be speculated what future ‘A Rina will bring – but this is the most getable of them all. `I could drink A’Rina every day of the week. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2020

My what a difference a year and a vintage both make, even in Giuseppe Russo’s Classico Rosso called ‘A Rina. The aromatics are wildly floral, expressive and complex, not to mention stylish and said again (about the right sort of Etna Rosso), definitively elegant. The mouthfeel takes no time off nor does it divert from what are fine and classic nerello mascalese (inclusive of 10 percent, unseparated cappuccio) aromas at an almost unparalleled appellative level. Hard to believe this 2020 is not the work of a single vineyard Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2021

The most identifiable cru is in fact (IMHO) Feudo di Mezzo but that which Giuseppe Russo makes is the one by which all others are calibrated. That includes Cottanera, Graci, Alta Mora, Planeta and Marc de Grazia (Terre Nere) though they are all perfectly excellent iterations in their own right. Though the large contrada is known for diversity there is just something about the glycerol, viscosity and unctuousness of its rich and ripe fruit that sets it apart. Like Toscana’s Panzano or Canalicchio but in Russo’s hands it’s more cru specific, like Vigna del Sorbo or Vigna Casaccia. Perfumed and also generous, especially from 2021. The fullness of flesh and body with silken texture and the streak of balsamic acidity is dramatic, yet never vivid. The levels of control and balance can be quantified as so much more than merely exemplary. Drink 2025-2032.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

The virtues of Feudo di Mezzo contrada have been extolled and exulted but they should be doubled as it pertains to the 2020 vintage. Perhaps not the same generosity of 2021 but the perfumes are special and my do they capture attention before inciting fantasy through imagination. Once again the balance in the context of highest level nerello mascalese (and 10 percent cappuccio) is just about perfect, certainly ideal and harmonious, but 2020 is less overstated, bordering on understated Etna Rosso. Keep returning to the brilliance of the aromatics – they are the heart of this wonderful wine. Drink 2023-2032.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2013

First vintage was 2005 and Giuseppe Russo is now farming 50 hectares. The old vineyards are refurbished with massal selections from the vineyard’s material. The alberello planted around the house in this contrada is cappuccio, planted in 2006 and 2007. Feudo as an Etna Rosso is considerably fresher than San Lorenzo when it comes to 2013 but that wine’s bright light is from different sources. This Feudo is still very fruit forward and blessed of that which seems recently picked. The lack of evolution in 2013 Feudo is remarkable, bordering on impossible. Traction and trenchant focus are fully engaged, never having released grip and if there was ever closed phase it can’t really be speculated but it’s doubtful this ever occurred. Impressive and delicious in every respect, in fact this ’13 Feudo is about as special as it gets for a 10 year-old Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2021

Giuseppe Russo’s part of Contrada Calderara Sottana is at the upper reaches and the kind of fruit he pulls sees both barriques and tonneaux. Makes for a recently forged traditional sort of Etna Rosso of all parts elevated, stood up to be noticed and counted. More so than Feudo di Mezzo – if surely less so than San Lorenzo. The fruit is darker, almost into the proverbial black cherry style and yet the stone of the vineyard streaks straight on through. Easily the most dichotomous of Russo’s reds, like a line of truffle cutting through a semi-hard cheese. Chewy vintage though, again full of fruit and there could be no lover of fine Italian reds that would not drool over this wine. Ready earlier than the others though these sneaky tannins will creep up silent and stealth. Drink 2024-2029.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2020

Tighter than 2021, of course but even Calderara Sottana succumbs to earlier gratification. No Feudo di Mezzo however but the 2021 vintage will breach the 15 percent alcohol mark. As for 2020 well that streak of salinity called mineral or not runs through with fine filament bridges connecting top and bottom palate fruit. The ’20 is stellar, in finer balance than ’21, harmonious because tension and even a moment or two of austerity reign in the potential for over exuberant fruit. More brilliance from Giuseppe Russo. Drink 2024-2031.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2021

Solo Feudo, the oldest vineyard block, without the addendum of the “di Mezzo” and so a more specific piece of the Contrada which only Giuseppe Russo (who planted back in 2006/2007) can lay claim to such focus. Feudo (and even from 2021) is a Rosso of finer chained tannins, sharper acidity and more linear structure than the others, save perhaps for San Lorenzo. A chalkiness pervades and a dry extract meeting of the mineral mind means that a Russo exposée is expressed, spoken in tongues, of determinate focus throughout the experience. Dry and even austere, structured to age for seemingly ever. Once again, even from this vintage. Drink 2025-2035.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2020

No matter the contrada or the pinpointed place within the place there is a marked difference between the 2021s and these taut 2020s. No more is that notion explained and received than by this Feudo (minus the di Mezzo) what with its massive accumulation of structural parts. That said there is something more appealing about the 2021 because this vintage surprisingly acts a bit backward as compared to Calderara Sottana and Feudo di Mezzo. The solo artist known as Feudo is a tough guy, masculine of temperament and presents a tasting challenge. There is more fruit than most however, so give it an extra year and drink 2021 first. Drink 2025-2033.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2021

From the cru as elevated as any in Versante Nord and surely the one closest to not only Giuseppe Russo’s heart but also that which captures his imagination. The vines are also the oldest (up there with some that are in Feudo di Mezzo) and what can you say? The complete package for a Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso that speaks of a mind it has developed and one that is its very own. A voice of experience and never relenting determination. The purest red fruit, not one thing or another, not one to elicit memories of tasting or eating anything specific but instead all about fantasy or perhaps hyper-focused reality. Carries the acid of the climate that envelops this place and while 2021 delivers so much fruit – well too bad because the acid will not be denied. There is balsamic here but not a deep, dark, cimmerian and cloying one. This is purity and focus, not to mention finesse and finally, generosity. This is everything. Drink 2025-2034.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2020

First vintage for Russo was 2005 and Giuseppe is now farming 50 hectares, The old vineyards are continuing to be  refurbished with massal selections from the vineyard’s material. The alberello planted around the house in this contrada is cappuccio, planted in 2006 and 2007. As for 2020 the snapshot is a different one, angles and lightning not the same as 2021. For the first time the fruit is finer and more focused toward a vanishing point as it pertains to a 2020, something that could not be said for Feudo. San Lorenzo as a cru is triumphant for Etna Rosso because its freshness is only equalled by its structure and the purity of nerello mascalese (with the small amount of cappuccio) that can be exulted as something truly special. San Lorenzo is nothing if not consistent because of the rustic and high red citrus qualities noted from its fruit. Can’t look away, will not look or turn away from 2020. Has my heart. Drink 2024-2036.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2013

Warmer vintage than many in the way that Etna does the opposite of the rest of Italy and also Sicily. Though the fruit has passed over into a liquorice, bokser, cacchi persimmon and even tamarind sort of place there are other freshening aspects that continue to breath light and freshness into this 2013 Rosso. Earthy to a degree and the oak has rendered to emerge as sweet baking spice with a shot of red berry mocha. Fully fleshed Rosso, smooth and lingering for one of Giuseppe Russo’s Rosso of longer than life finishes. Longer than the road that leads from Passopiciaro. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038.   Tasted May 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2019

The single block within larger San Lorenzo is Giuseppe Russo’s prized piece of Etna Rosso real estate. There is a sharpness from 2019 that is not noted from 2020, part early maturing fruit and balsamic dustiness that speaks to a warmer vintage with some fruit edging to the precipice. Acids are spectacular and overall there is a fine architectural design. Freshness persists though this will likely advance quite a bit quicker than the following vintage. Drink the ‘19s while 2020 takes its sweet Piano delle Colombe time. Drink 2024-2032.   Tasted May 2023

Alberto Graci, Feudo di Mezzo Vineyard

Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Conceptualize all of Graci’s Rosso and imagine how they might act, nose and taste like in one layered package and voila, the Classico is conceived. Not that the same fruit from Arcurìa and Feudo di Mezzo will find its way into such a wine but a kinship and a thread is clearly woven into this level. Crisp, crunchy, middle ground of tonality and more amenable nature though still viewed as a structured Rosso that will show its best in a couple of years. Graci’s normale is many others’ best. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2017

A warm vintage in its own right and compared to 2018 the difference is north versus south, night and day, light against dark side of the moon. If 2018 is a nerello mascalese of chiaroscuro then 2017 is blazing light. And yet this section within a sector, that being Arcurìa is the captain of a nerello mascalese, no matter the vintage, to breath light into a pure and vibrant expression. Just an iota more density and nebbiolo-like tar drifting into austerity appeals from this ’17, however it does well to maintain vitality and life affirming, but also extending grace. Ready now and though not one of or for generations, some vintages do need to sacrifice for the greater good. Last tasted May 2023.

Sopra il Pozzo describes a special portion of the signature Arcurìa vineyard (and contrada of the same name), a block “above the well,” 100 per cent nerello mascalese picked in the last week of October. Treated to the same maceration and elévage as the Rosso for the same spontaneous style and time as Feudo di Mezzo. However Sopra il Pozzo’s “refuse” soil composition is different and requires patience in the name of time, due to its alternating layers of decomposed volcanics in stone and coarse sand. This is a section of recast material and the corresponding mascalese is both emasculated and chivalrous. The degree to which layers of fruit, mineral and umami incorporare and completare is finite and contiguous yet also lengthy, scorrevole and endless. There is rare Etna glycerin texture and perfectly timed acid tang. Tempismo perfetto. Grande. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted April 2022

Godello and Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2016

Not sure if this had not not been tasted in a vertical between 2015-2018 that any maturity would have been noted but especially as compared to the most recent ’18 there is some perceived evolution. Also a wine of depth, more compact flavours and the wood is duly noted, part vintage and partially what feels like the end of an era before a stylistic change was made. There is some chocolate on this vintage, a depth of fruit and soil that receive spice for accents towards accumulating a full-bodied nerello mascalese. Suave and silky tannins here, just about resolved. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2015

Increasingly, with each new tasting of 2015 Versant Nord Etna it is becoming clear that this is a great and age-worthy vintage. Warmth and particularities of climate captured in time are resulting in the slowest and most graceful release of energy with aid and abet by finest tannins. Graci’s is running strong, high in energy and persistent heart beating acids, time tested, keeping time and strong. Great heart and love from this wine, similar oak styling to 2016 but the energy and vibrancy are the thing, at the crux and delivered by a season that could not help but beat the infinite drum. Etna incarnate and one to emulate for generations to come.  Drink 2023-2033. Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2020

Tasting a Graci Rosso five to six years after vintage is the prudent course of action – this much we know to be true. Case in point the open window that is the 2018 which tells us that 2020 is still in need of two further years in bottle. A tight one here with some grippy if also austere tannins but sweet fruit, earth and acids are all there, waiting, but we know them to be present. Much like nebbiolo this is the way of correct and proper, not to mention hugely promising nerello mascalese. A 15-20 year Rosso no doubt. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Estate

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2012

A vintage of great conditioning and showing with exceptional delicasse this far forward. Near eleven years have done less to advance this cru-designate nerello mascalese in the early years of its classification, surely less than what comes four years forward from the quickly softening 2016. This is a look back at a wine so capable of hanging with and also being considered with the likes of Cru Bourgogne and/or MGA descried Barolo. The perfumes rise with trenchant intendment and the earth elevates alongside, complimenting and spicing, along with the long ago softened wood. Yet there is no downside or grace failing moments, only energy and vibrancy, traits Alberto Graci insists upon from every wine he makes these days. Drink 2023-2028.   Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC “Quota 600” 2007

Warm vintage that will happen again 10 years later and though 15-plus years have passed there is no retreat of structure or desire to take only a quick look at this wine. A handsome and well aged example, soft and caressing for a most willing recipient that happens to double as a submissive palate. Lovely and in a state of grace, wistful look back at another era and time when Etna Rosso was something most of the world knew very little about. A dream to taste such an example. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2022

So young and for the vintage, so promising from Alberto Graci. The pioneer for Etna Bianco DOC Contrada declared wine has advanced into modern day winemaking for exclusivity in Bianco and this Classic represents one of the most avant-garde steps. Clean, clean lease livivg still very much alive and in charge with some of the finer extract and tannin in non-cru Bianco across the northern slope. Revisit in 12-18 months for further disclosures. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2021

Ten years after this first of the white Etna crus was declared is a Bianco that shines and shows exactly zero maturity with über freshness captured. Transparent, translucent and what can best be described as carricante purity is what comes from this taut and energetic white. Alberto Graci has built a separate facility for white wines, to ensure provenance and make sure every step is taken to concentrate on making whites without red distraction. High citrus aspect and yet a mark of stone fruit because the vintage was easier and allowed for a next level of ripeness. Still there is basalt stoniness and that extra edge of complexity by white grapes grown (inclusive of some cattarrato) and used here from the primarily red Feudo di Mezzo vineyard.  Last tasted May 2023

Graci’s viticultural epicentre is Contrada Arcurìa but they also grow in four other Etna north communes. The all-purpose Bianco is 85 per cent carricante with (15) catarratto harvested mid-October (on average) and raised in only stainless steel for nine months, on the lees. My how those lovely lees drive this wine, texturizing the local grapes and directing all the traffic. Rarely does an Etna Bianco recall Chablis but here is one in all glory and reminiscence. Fresh, luxe fruit round and abounding, mild yogurt to crème frâiche character derived by the infiltrations of those positive yeasts. Just salty enough to remind of the place in a generalized and beneficial way. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2011

The inaugural vintage for Arcurìa as a vino Bianco is this 2011 and in fact it was the first such cru-declared white wine for Etna Nord. Graci is the pioneer of this menzione conceptualization for Etna Bianco and not by any simple or off the cup (lack of) planning. The shape of this Arcurìa is still a structured entity, with flesh hanging taut on bones and a malleability or elasticity that expresses the adaptability of fruit from this very particular place. Yes the wine has softened but freshness persists and energy refuses to wane. Remarkable length and longevity for Etna Bianco. Does 11-plus years old get any better than this? Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Graci Etna Rosato DOC Arcurìa 2021

Comes mainly out of Arcurìa’s bottom vineyard where it is predominately sandy, better for salty, high acid and energetic Rosato. All nerello mascalese, quickest of presses, extracting negligible colour and the nose indicates the warmer vintage. Sells out immediately but with oxygen and time this can develop patisserie and bicarbonate smells, like sparkling wine or even something like Loire Chenin grown on Caillotes. Notable extract and tannin involved, really special.  Last tasted May 2023

Etna Rosato comes from 100 per cent mascalese and the only grapes harvested in September. Just a soft press, no skin contact maceration and ultimately a salty, easy, light and rustic rose coloured meeting flavoured mingling with texture Rosato. Just what you want to drink in the sun, anytime after 11:00 am, preferably with the volcano looming above. Or anywhere the sun might hit in your place of living. Meets the non-plussed demands of delicious and satisfying, two most important blush ideals. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2021

Precision and intensity rarely come together in Etna Bianco as they do in Alberto Graci’s Muganazzi to tell us something fantastic about this contrada’s capability. With carricante that is and Graci takes full advantage, listens to the winds and creates this near masterpiece as it pertains to 2021. A vintage that could be too easy and simpatico as they say but Graci makes the most of the benign situation. Sharper and more phenolic than Arcurìa yet high caste in its own right. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Bianco Buscemi 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

From a zone outside of Etna, Mirella Buscemi and for Alberto a very interesting place, that being colder and drier which means later but also well maturing, high caste, kept acidity. Only sulphured at bottling and less treatment needed in the vines because of the micro-climate and the fact the elevation is 980m, on Etna’s northwest slope, past Randazzo. This is different, more into stone fruit but lean, taut and curiously fit with some kind of Bianco sauvage. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Graci Tartaric 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

A blend of nerello mascalese and (30 percent) garnacha, referred to locally as granacco and a most unique expression of an Etna red grown outside of the territory. Same vineyard as the Bianco, at 980m of elevation in Mirella Buscemi. Chewy and nicely tart, hinting at balsamic but the garnacha changes the overall ideal, bringing juicy red fruit and a doubly red macerated cherry with a note of tar into the mix. Some stems (just a few percentage points) add a third dimension, part savoury and part a thing of plant-based energy. Another truly interesting Etna diversion away from the oft repeated classic norm. Really important to taste something beyond the mantra; Bianco,  Rosato, Rosso. Bianco, Rosato, Rosso. Something new and refreshing without trying to copy other famous wines. Still very Etna. Drink 2024-2027.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC AEDES 2022

A blend led by carricante with other white varieties, grecanico and minella included. As much citrus as any from Versante Nord and not only lemon but an almost lime squeeze over avocado. Also an inert gas, eventually to emit petrol, persistent in repeat for a lightly tart and ultimately pleasant feel for the palate. Simple, effective and very well made. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC AEDES 2021

A Bianco of its own accord, high in all parts well connected, including but not restricted to fruit both brim ripe and also phenolic. Some botanicals and metals here, for complexity and range. Four-poster blend and the three supporting varieties (catarratto, grecanico and minnella) do a lot to support and change the sharp nature of carricante. Intensifying the aromatics is what stands out above anything else. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC ANTE 2020

Varietal carricante from the east side of Etna, perhaps the new frontier for 100 percent solo Etna Bianco. Will see what the future holds but this example from Contrada Puntarazzo is both curious and intriguing, complex at all parts in between and of aromatics seriously inviting. Of oh my goodness intensity, the spirit of citrus and a new slang of Etna acidity. This travels all over the palate and hovers over the surface like a combination of unoaked chardonnay (namely Chablis) and assyrtiko from Santorini. More of that latter it feels, volcanically speaking. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC ANTE 2013

This must be the third or fourth 2013 Etna poured in three days because producers are obviously proud to share this special and longer lasting vintage. This is exactly that, a terrific showing for a near 10 year-old Etna Bianco, still racing with fruit and alcohol but also that sense of place, that being Contrada Puntarazzo in Etna East that is always hoped for in a place specific wine. Sure there is maturity and the wine shows some petrol but freshness and original character is still very much alive. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2019

Imbris changes gears from Ante because wood aging is involved and a return to blending other varieties with the local carricante. Not so much a flinty Bianco but more so a phenolic one, quite botanical and herbal, less citric and rounder. Softer as well, already showing some maturity and drift into secondary character. Warm season increases the chances of all this personality coming out early and moving a bit quicker forward than the cooler vintages are want to do. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosato DOC Alnus 2022

A Rosato made with nerello mascalese (and cappuccio) well bled (pressatura method) for generous colour in an almost rusty version of Tavel – but Etna style. Full express of aromas and flavours, nothing held back and in the Rosato idiom this is what we would call all in. Like blood orange iced tea, sweet basil and some soil mineral for good local savour faire and measure. More of a food Rosato it would seem. Drink 2023-2024.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Nerello Cappuccio 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Won’t find nerello cappuccio from Etna darker and fruit richer than this, nor will the aromatics brood and compact as they do in this 2020. That said it is obviously a very good vintage for a varietal wine from young vines aching to express their youthful rebellion. Plenty of teen spirit here, sharp and gangly, ready for anything, action and a good fight with any structure exhibited its way. Fruit is the matter and maturity will come rather quickly. No wood means this is worked in just the right way. Drink 2023-2024.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Pictus 2021

Pictus is the Classico for the company, made with both nerello mascalese and cappuccio grown around the winery. Older vines obviously as compared to the mascalese label, wood aging in 500L tonneaux of mostly light toast. Notable blood orange, pomegranate and red curramt, sharply defined by their collective citrus and a lifted example of Etna Rosso. Chewy with liquorice and more red citrus on the palate. The volatility is just a bit elevated. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Aetnus 2018

A nicely settled Etna Rosso from 2018, clearly steps above the Pictus and from a selection more stringent with some oldest vines a part of the mix. This is a Rosso of texture, wood generosity yet to fully melt and meld with the fruit. Black cherry and liquorice, more chew than juicing, no smoulder or toast but the palate is very much affected by the tonneaux. The faintest note of astringency comes across at the finish. One more year should quell any rebellion and yet the chocolate will increase with ganache fervour. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Saeculare 2013

Yet another impressive 2013, this time from a Rosso by I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna made from pre-Phylloxera wines which puts them in the 140-ish year-old range. Vines that give to massal selection so that their DNA may be passed on to create new plants (in a facility in the north of Italy). This is the dream vintage as far as tasting older wines are concerned, now number five in three days from four Etna producers and no duds in the lot. The longevity of 2013, in Bianco and also Rosso is not a matter of fantasy. This 10 year-old proves its trenchant ability to exist in an Etna reality. Dark and perfectly mature fruit but should and will continue to gain interest for a few more years. Drink 2023-2027.   Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo, Contrada Santa Spririto

Palmento Costanzo

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco di Sei 2021

Old vines, just about 100 percent carricante because the new vineyard has only that variety though there are no old plants in the original vineyard so the cattaratto can be anywhere from one to ten percent in the mix. From the blocks to the right (east) of the winery, nine months in steel and no malo. Smart scintillant of Bianco with a juicy squeeze of lime and beautifully fine bitters. Clarity and pristine fruit. If you are warm for steely Chablis then switch to Palmetto Constanzo Etna Bianco. You may never go back. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco di Sei 2019

The steely one, essentially carricante with smatterings of cattaratto vine fruit in the scintillant mix. Hard to believe this is two years older than the current release, from warm 2019 and at the Classico level of Etna Bianco. Freshness is everything and a wine with four years of age exhibiting this kind of youth would fool just about anyone as to its vintage. The harvest in a bottle, not a genie because time does not trick away upon its release into the air. Keep wishing and living your best life with a glass or three of Bianco di Sei ’19. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanza

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2020

The first contrada-designate Bianco from and for Santo Spirito is in fact that of Palmetto Costanzo and here the vintage exultation is welcomed with the most appreciative embrace. Moving away from steely purity and into an entirely next level of clarity, finesse and ultimately spirit. A most important and structured vintage because fruit harmony meets cool elongation for top results. Crisp and fleshy, layered of citrus, stone and melon fruit but always lined by basaltic stoniness. Unique Bianco, quite studiously Santo Spirito, forever and forever. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2019

A beautifully dusty, balsamic and herbal example of Rosso, so very Santo Spirito of elevation that cools and breathes great life into a wine. So powdery as per the contrada, exulted and when this fully liquifies it will show the saints’ true spirit indeed. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2020

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Nero di Sei 2019

Bottle tasted at the winery: Slightest amount of TCA. Only nerello mascalese from the vines around the winery including the contrada of Santo Spirito. Aromatics just ever so slightly muted but no lack of spirit and a lovely palate if also just ever so slightly muted.  Tasted May 2023

Tasted for the second time in two days and this from a sound bottle at Siclia en Primeur, in fact the fruit is so luxe and naturally sweet you have to take a moment to savour its generosity. From several sources including Contrade Santo Spirito and Cavaliere for a full and substantial Classico that everyone should know. The Etna equivalent of a Piu Communì nebbiolo that does everything it needs to connect, interweave and layer nerello mascalese for maximum satisfaction. Not that immediate gratification is the order but this is a Rosso to drink now and easily up to 10 years more. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2019

A vintage out of which the pre-phylloxera was produced from the contrada so just imagine the possibilities as they come from this all in for the vintage nerello mascalese. Feels like an extended maceration because the glycerol and unctuous textural pool are both at the crest of Etna Rosso heights. Oranges and cherries but more than anything old vines spirit and what just happened from out of these volcanic sands carried through to century and a half vines is something wholly and unequivocally other. Hints at balsamic reduction but the tannins and also acids are so fresh and so years is what it will take to take this anywhere new. The finest chalkiness imitates the soil and puts this in a league with some of Italy’s most important red wines. Up to you too decide which they are or don’t bother at all. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre-Phylloxera 2019

As the name suggests this is indeed nerello mascalese taken from vines equipped with pre-phylloxera DNA and the experience of the ages. Vines that were either around or planted not long after the 1879 eruption passed across the western boundary of what is today’s property. Yes all this makes a difference and this is an extraordinary wine. It breathes Ginestra (the herbal plant with the beautiful yellow flowers growing out of the black lava stone) and silkens in texture no doubt because of the fine powdery volcanic sand this vineyard thrives upon. Extreme purity, focus and finesse, not a moment too soon or late, all parts in union, seamless and in group understanding. Yet there is mystery, fantasy and spirit and it must be said, no matter the clarity and polish, it is a Rosso with soul. We thank Costanzo for that. Drink 2025-2039.   Tasted May 2023

Michele Faro, Pietradolce

Pietradolce

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2021

Steely Bianco, of a clarity that even the great whites of Etna somehow seem challenged to acquiesce and yet this is the one destined to appeal to those whose imagination is captured by such an uncompromising kind of purity. Very much a matter of how Pietradolce sees what Bianco should be, without distraction or creativity beyond total control. Pristine is what this is and there is no other way to frame it. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Archineri 2019

Aromatic freshness is preserved by fermentation in conical cement tanks, state of the art in modern design. The perfume is fruit first and also the character of that cement. Would not say Archinieri is lighter than Rampante though it does show its upbringing in a brighter, more effusive and also cured salumi way. It’s power is also more reserved or should we say less obvious. One is not the other and each are their own Etna Rosso. Shows what terroir and especially volcanics are want to say. Archinieri is mountain nerello mascalese. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2019

If the lady is on the label, the vines are pre-phylloxera. From the Albarello raised nerello mascalese above and to the northeast of the winery, vines in and around 95 years of age, a special and small parcel with a micro-climate and geological meets flora structure all of its own. Same contrada as Archinieri and the vineyards are close to one another yet they are located on different lava flows. Vinified the same way, in concrete, with Archinieri being a quantity at 4,000 and here Rampante at 7,000 bottles on average per year. Sees barrel for 14 months, first vintage was 2014, same year that the land was purchased. Indeed so apposite and here a deeper, more perfumed and darker fruited wine. Says something about the colour, mineral and elemental make-up of the particular basalt. Rampante is volcanic nerello mascalese. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Pietradolce’s Rampante Vineyard

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2019

For Pietradolce it is Barbagalli that is THE Grand Cru of nerello mascalese, first made in 2010, only 2,000 bottles today, the most concentrated of them all from which only half to three-quarters of a kilo of fruit is picked per plant. Ups the aging in 70 HL botti to 20 months and here we find everything elevated and that means everything, A phenom of perfume and a powerful wine that never flaunts its impressiveness. Barbagalli is no peacock (though they are magnificent creatures) and it knows what excellence its holds. The vineyard proves to be one of Etna Nord’s greatest assets and with 2018 the combination is one of both expression and impression. Exotic in ways no other Pietradolce Rosso can think of but truth is there are few Etna Rosso that deliver this mix of perfume and power. A difficult vintage that challenged because of humidity (mainly) and the come the spices and acids covering the palate. The wood brings an exotic spice to the finish and droplets of infusing Amaro. Unrelenting. Freshness. Elegance. So young. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted May 2023

Barbagalli Vineyard

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2015

Far less of a humid vintage as compared to 2018 and a wine so perfectly in the window of its prime – so in a way all Barbagalli can be assessed in relation to this 2015. Nothing passive about this nerello mascalese while conversely no aggressive actions or furtive movements neither. Powerful and yet incrementally structured so that time moves slowly and will be on side with the freshness of the fruit for a good long time. All the wines show great precision, polish and promise with this 2015 as a beacon and experienced adult from which to learn, follow and determine their own paths.  Last tasted May 2023

Barbagalli is not merely just a year older than Santo Spirito but it is a contrada to deliver the most fruit in the Piertradolce stable. There’s also an earthy underbelly impression, plus a richness and an unctuous stability that breeds sour edging over the sweetness of its fruit. Does not fool around in fact it’s structured to last a short lifetime, or 15 years at the very least.  Tasted May 2019

The estate flagship Etna Rosso Barbagalli is taken from Contrada Rampante in the area that is known as “Barbagalli” in Solicchiata. This northern Etna 80 to 100 year-old pre-phylloxera vineyard delivers the most naturally earth-crusted, umami-laden expression in hyperbole, concentration and peak spiciness. There is a buzz about this nerello mascalese that the rest of the portfolio does not pulse with, neither outward through expressionistic energy nor inward, retracted and self-effacing by implosive feeling. The texture separates itself with multi-faceted tenor and a tremor of explosive potential that might strike at any time, anywhere, any place. This will turn into something ethereal, of that there can be little doubt. Drink 2022-2032.  Tasted May 2018

Pietradolce Sant’Andrea Bianco 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

Poured after the Rosso which is not a big surprise considered the name Bourgogne has been mentioned several times, in the vineyard, cantina and at this tasting. Pre-phylloxera vines are always ready for the longest of skin contact times, for months on end. The colour is the first cue, as golden hued as it gets and the aromas are so compactly concentrated there seems little room for light and bright moments. Yet there are with freshness an essential matter and sapid persistence the real result of a Bianco’s complexion. Very small production, first vintage being 2015 and now considered the Bianco Grand Cru, just as Barbagalli is for the Rosso. Highly polished, silky and without any parts out of place and despite the persistent freshness there is no doubt that the wine has evolved though not out of a hot vintage. Will continue without advancing too far for another two or three years and then will taste like older Bourgogne before too long. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Pietradolce Sant’Andrea Bianco 2017, Terre Siciliane IGT

From 140 year-old cariccante vines near the village of Milo on the eastern slopes of Etna. Between 8-10 months of skin contact. High elevation and volcanic soils maintain acidity and freshness, but most important this is arguably the finest area on the mountain to make white wines. This has nothing to do with appellation but a wine that maintains the soul and character of Etna with something more, meaning through skin contact style. The white “Grand Cru,” as opposed to Barbagalli for the red. Full on gold in the most luxe example and truth is spoken with clarity, energy, spiritual individuality and what we must consider as Etna mineral. Volcanic and you could drink three glasses of this without tiring for a moment. Clocks in at 13.5, light and forever. Will age like fine Bourgogne but you feel the volcano inside this wine. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Quantico Estate

Quantico

Quantico Etna Bianco DOC 2020

From 2.2 hectares, mainly carricante with smaller amounts of grillo, grecanico and trebbiano within the allowable amounts within the DOC. Lean and soda biscuit at first but also herbal aromatique with acacia flower. Some 10 months spent in stainless steel only with a plan going forward to do two years with some skin contact. Highly aromatic Bianco, complex to a great degree but taut and intense. Intriguing and from lower elevation than many but also heavier soil with plenty of clay. At the end of the day this Bianco is expressly Etna, no matter the pinpoint of location. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Quantico Etna Bianco DOC 2018

Just two years older than the ’20 and a marked difference, especially in aromatics. Much warmer year but the exotica and tropical fruit really stand out in this 2018. Cherry blossom, lime cordial and a litchi or longan effect, almost feeling boozy but the alcohol (at 13 percent) is the same as 2020. That said the palate is much more similar, less advanced and feeling fresher. Lots of fruit here, full of energy with a long lasting impression. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Quantico Etna Rosso DOC 2020

A week of maceration and stainless fermentation though going forward chestnut wood will be used, it being far more traditional a vessel then that of French. Extreme lightness of Etna Rosso being in fact this is at the head of that stylistic class. No wood of distraction, nor colour neither. Lean, tight, implosive, rising with some acetic notions and then this underlying feeling of liquorice. Pretty much the most unadulterated Rosso with airy and also minor volatile character. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosato DOC 2022

Newer bottling, approximately two months ago, give or take. Early harvest of nerello mascalese with the full intention to make Rosato. Keep in mind that Etna producers are well ahead of this Italian game and Terre Nere was the first. It was Elenea, daughter to Marco who asked when she was two, “daddy are you making a pink wine for me.” Sometimes being a pioneer for a place is simply a matter of love. Perfectly basaltic saline while conversely balanced with sapid notions, flavours and responsibility. Phenolic too and closer to Provence than many of the area. Will age a few years as well. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 2022

The “Villages” Rosso, blending youngest vines fruit from the various 50-plus parcels comprising half of the total production, including some cappuccio. There could be some montellado and other smallest quantities of red grape varieties involved. Interesting in that this effects a richer and naturally sweeter character than most Contrada or Cru wines. So getable and crushable, also a dictionary entry and teaching moment for what it means to be and taste like Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo Il Quadro Delle Rose 2021

A bit more than a hectare from the relatively large cru but one of greatest Etna consistency, of ripening time year after year (beginning of October) and also character, even from producer to producer. Shows its wood more than any off the other wines, not quite chocolate, white or dark, but texturally speaking this is the feeling gained. There is a tang for lack of a better word that defines FdM, an intensity of liquid chalkiness and the most blood orange of any, especially in the hands of Terre Nere. Considered a Premier Cru in Terre Nere terms. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2021

One of the OG defining Etna Rosso now nearly 25 years after the pioneers began to bring these basaltic red gems to by the world. This is the Santo Spirito contrada world created Marco de Grazia, a single vineyard Etna just about 100 percent nerello mascalese off of nearly 50 and 100-plus year old vines. A contrada specific nerello mascalese, deep dark and hematic while in this sense and today’s Etna it creates a broader spectrum of style. Depending on the size of the cru of course. Here as mentioned truly deeper and layered, fixating on or in mimic of basaltic layers where the Ginestra and the nerello thrive. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Godello, Guardiola, Etna Nord

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2021

Guardiola is the genesis of Tenuta delle Terre Nere for Marc De Grazia, the reason why he came to Etna and everything extends into the present from its high elevation origins. Simply put Guardiola marks the beginning of his Etna adventure. In 2001 there were no more than 10 wineries bottling commercially on Etna Nord. The vineyard rises from 870-950m of elevation, “La Casa della Guardiola,” literally the guards’ or guarding house. A fresh and cool place whereas Calderara is now too hot in the summer. Here the volcanics are from the 1873 eruption, therefore a relatively “newer” soil. The personality of this wine is unlike any other, the elegance factor just about as prescient as they come. Gentle, calming and blessed of a reserved, almost hidden and yet to be unleashed while singular kind of power. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Doc San Lorenzo 2021

The über specific San Lorenzo elevates Terre Nere up to Grand Cru status, just about at the border of Randazzo, close to the 1981 lava flow, Randazzo side. A beautiful wine because it stands upright yet without rigidity. Domenico quips that “I’ve never found anyone who says San Lorenzo is not my wine.” Both rich and linear, more flesh on these bones than any other and handling the wood as easily and suggestively as any of the crus, Premier or Grand. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Prephylloxera La Vigna Di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana 2021

The contrada is Calderara Sottana and within this part of the estate are the Prephylloxera vines of La Vigna di Don Peppino, ode to a grower who created these oldest of vines for this lower elevated cru. The sweetest natural fruit but also the most intensely wound, tannic spooling like wire on a winch pulled tight. As taut as the winding is we can imagine the unwinding to take years, perhaps even decades to achieve any semblance of loose consistency. The acumen, experience and wisdom of century vines predating the nasty European louse puts this Etna Rosso in a world of its own, even within a world that is already so hyper-specific. You feel the wood upon the finish and its tannic spice, so even more reason why time is the requiem above and beyond. Drink 2026-2039.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Dagala Do Bocca D’orzo 2021

First the monopole vineyard Dagala, “the islands saved by God,” within the contrada Bocca d’Orzo. Another singular Rosso expression, like the rest and yet it can only be Terre Nere that quips with trenchant purpose on how to create a block within a cru for something like this. Less compact and taut than the professed Grand Crus while returning to amenability and elegance. There are some chiaroscuro and shadowy qualities involved, not yet known and two years should shed the chalky tannin so that flesh can emerge. Harder to understand this wine but when it comes out of the shell many things shall be revealed. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC 2022

The entry level though is there really such a thing in Terre Nere’s world? A beautifully premeditated, coordinated and concluded Bianco blend that exults planting white grapes on the north slopes. Equal parts salinity and sapidity with some of the mountains finest extract and tannin at this Bianco “Villages” level. Crunchy and what they call croccante. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Montalto 2022

First vintage was 2018 and beginning in 2020 it sees no wood, only steel. “High mountain” is from the south slope at 950m, highest of that side. On the north the slopes begin at 600m and on the south you have to go much higher to make fine wine. The vineyard is 70-plus years old and it was in great shape from the first for Terre Nere. Just a bit more than. One hectare and it’s a good distance to trek back to Calderara Sottana. Richness here, definitely a place of high solar radiation so that there is a platinum effect, not a bronzing but definitely something extra in terms of extract, concentration and slight hue, however inconsequential that might be. Metallic to a small but significant degree and delectable for Etna Bianco.

Giuseppe Scirto and Valeria Franco

Vini Scirto

Vini Scirto All’Antica 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Giuseppe’s grandfather made bulk wine like everyone else on Etna. Hi father Alfio did other work but returned to the land in 2010 to bottle his one wine. Located in Passopiscaro, now it is the turn of Giuseppe and Valeria. All’Antica is the “traditional” wine, which is a much better way of expression, leaving words like normale and “entry-level” to others who do not live by their ancestry. An IGT of 100 percent nerello mascalese and truth is other Etna Rosso do not exude these kinds of aromatics. Not quite blood orange but certainly this mix of scraped red citrus and salumi skin yet so fresh, natural and effusive. The definition of that word in wine speak because brightness is not the right way to communicate one’s thoughts and feelings. All the herbs and wild plants od the vineyard are in. The way nonno used to make wine but with today’s most important grape as it may choose to write its solo poetry. Simple stanzas, understood but you know there is hidden, maybe ironic and potentially revelation inducing meaning. All this from the “traditional” level. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Vini Scirto Don Pippinu Rosso Nerello Mascalese 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

An extra year in bottle has transformed Don Pippinu Rosso, now in recognizably secondary position, some porcini or at least Fungi di Ferla in its earthy aromas. The perfumes have grounded and yet the palate is eye-popping expressive, at the height of sapid pings, spices piquing and of an intensity running hither and thither, heading towards the amok. Brings or travels back to the aromas that now figure away tar, red citrus and liquorice. Fascinating Rosso that may strike some as oxidative and not wholly under control. Serious tannins here that will need a few more years to resolve.  Last tasted May 2023

Scirto is the work of Giuseppe Scirto and Valeria Franco near Passopisciaro, with grapes since 2010 and from vineyards inherited from their grandparents. They have vines in Feudo di Mezzo and Porcaria, mainly nerello mascalese. Don Pippinu comes from a tiny plot of ungrafted 80-100 year old nerello mascalese and nothing off of the north slope of Mount Etna resembles what’s in this glass. Throws a light sediment, its hue is orange sky pastel at dawn and a flirtatious volatility marks the nose. Opens to an earthy if wild berry fragrance and then the salty-geological basaltic rock energy alights, if of a purpose to wake up the palate. Do not be fooled into any commercial space or domain for this is a natural expression of the Feud di Mezzo zone. Not on purpose mind you but a Rosso that is precise and as was unintentionally intended. So much beauty in the complexion of its flaws, a taste into the mirror of what is necessary and also possible. Wouldn’t age this too long but can think of many, many wine geeks who could crush the bottles of such a quietly provocative Rosso. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted April 2022

Vini Scirto A’Culonna Rosso Nerello Mascalese 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

Like the others this is a 13 percent wine that never tries to be anything but exactly what it is. Again IGT and not Etna Rosso because there is no necessity for Giuseppe and Valeria to follow rules of a Consorzio’s “disciplinare” but instead the traditions and to listen to the terroir of the place where they were born and grew up. A’Culonna shares these affinities with Don Pippinu but this is a different nerello mascalese space, occupying its own column of Etna Rosso authenticity. Richer and furthered in texture, closer to Feudo di Mezzo in style, expressive of more wood and with that early sense of maturity not unusual for a Scirto Rosso. An example that gets somewhere quickly and acts with experience though you know it will remain in a holding pattern for several years without any haste into tertiary character. Chewy Rosso and again, markedly tannic. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Tasted in Taormina at Sicilia en Primeur

Planeta

Planeta Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Taccione 2021

Has always been from Contrada Taccione but this is the first vintage to show it on the label. Not that this changes anything but winemaker Patricia Tóth and team surely understand this fruit after the trials and errors of ten-plus years of working towards figuring out its nuances. Fantastic super high quality waxiness, citrus and a Bianco from which the Ginestra is showing for an arch-floral iteration of what Etna Bianco must mean. Essential Etna Bianco. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Warm vintage for the Rosso and so there is no avoiding the extra layers of aromatic intensity. A solo nerello mascalese effort from the gnarly old vines of Feudo di Mezzo and for this final installation, still some fruit out of Pietramarina. There is no mistaking the crunchy, basaltic stony and at moments gritty tannins so always remember that place on Etna will not be denied. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Brightest and highest of scintillant nerello mascalese at impressive elevation on soils developed from the mountain’s 1614 eruption, in other words ancient but still young by world standards. Each and every lava flow resulting in volcanic soils is different on Etna and this 406 year-old tract is unequivocally responsible for Planeta’s 2020 style. Sure the winemaker might have a say but her job is to let the vineyard speak which she does as well as any artista/professionalista on the mountain. Buon lavoro PT. Stupendo. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted May 2023

With Sofia Ponzii, Tenute Bosco and John Szabo MS

Tenute Bosco

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC Piano Dei Daini 2021

Ah the handsome beauty an stylish aromatic presence of a Bosco Bianco, so perfumed yet subtly so of just a whisper that pervades, left to linger in the air after it has left the room. The four complimentary varieties are catarratto, grecanico, inzolia and minella adding up to 10 percent and their presence makes this carricante shine, freshening at every moment and turn. Maturing vines around 25 years are in that moment of time for Bianco that speaks in the cleanest and more importantly the clearest vernacular. No need for wood for the idea is to keep the volcanic character front, obvious and centred. Indelibly stamped mountain wine from Sofia Ponzini and team but also as classy and finessed as any Classico there is. “Mountain” as opposed to “Volcanic” because of the aforementioned bellezza and because the wine is both linear and demure. Not soft but its power comes from confidence and attention to detail. And place. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosato DOC 2020

Only nerello mascalese from the lower and most vigorous part of the vineyard and grapes are chosen specifically for the Rosato. No wood like the white, once again to preserve the volcano’s effect on the wine, which is essential and when Rosato is made like this, also profound. This is a specific kind of salty, to Bosco’s vineyard and the mascalese that grows. Just three hours or less skin contact, quick maceration, no thought to colour, as with every wine in this portfolio, the place on Versante Nord is the heart of each and every matter. Already two years old, evolving very slowly and there is no reason to think it will not continue this way for another two or three more. Tranquility but also energy. Drink 2023-2027.   Tasted May 2023

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Pian dei Daini 2020

Rosso sees Botti Grandi for up to two years of time, depending on the vintage. A most amazing vintage, especially after two really challenging ones and here a connection with 2016 – though there are likely more connections between that and the coming 2021. Sometimes it feels as though we are waiting for a particular vintage of a wine we think we know so well and along comes Tenuta Bosco’s super fine 2020 Pian dei Daini. Here is what we need to know and even a suggestion on what to feel about tasting such a specimen of Rosso that makes everything alright. Classico incarnate, neither too warm or cool, hard or soft, heavy or light. Just right in fact, on all fronts, measured, seasoned and silky but also generous and clean. This wine is more than just a Rosso connected to Versante Nord but one that defines Bosco’s nook and how nerello mascalese is transforming itself to become a biotype specific to the vineyard. Exemplary and a wine possessive of its very own kind of soul. Tannins are just bit drying so be sure to sit on your bottles for another two years. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre-Phylloxera 2016

Single parcel and a selection of that block within the Contrada of Santo Spirito. There is nothing like Tenute Bosco’s Vico and you must spend some time to allow the wine to open. It is both tight and demure from the beginning, like cured artiganale salumi, not quite ready to slice but you can sense through its concentrated musky scent that something remarkable is developing, maturing and taking place. Verdant savoury bits, sultry smoulder, lean yet fleshy at moments and handsomely muscular in certain parts. Nothing showy but surely sophisticated. Finesse and while there may be nothing else like Vico in Rosso terms aboard Etna, it is a beautiful thing indeed. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted May 2023

Sicilia en Primeur

Etna Bianco

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Bianco DOC Trainara (Generazione Alessandro) 2022

Fine, precise and focused example of mainly Etna carricante with (10 percent) catarratto, a variety that Alessandro di Camporeale makes great use of in their single vineyard Vigna Di Mandranova in Agro di Camporeale. Crisp and croccante, vibrant and succulent, acids and minerals creating a quotient where fruit simply abides. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Cool, almost minty, certainly phenolic, direct and ready. Traditional yet of a clarity that shows no lees nor solidifying textures neither. Lemon and lime, gelid and tart if also very focused. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinato 2021

Different sort of Bianco for Benanti, openly phenolic and after some complex oscillations, ultimately peppery upon the finish. In between the waves roll in with a full compliment of herbals, botanicals and stone fruit. A layered and textural wine, predicated on clean lees and what feels like a bit of tart sharpness. The peppery kick is either cumin or mirto – or both. Feel the wood and the bâtonnage for real interest here. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2021

Versante Est and one of the OG’s if not the OG producer for Bianco Superiore. Here the old indigenous varieties of (10 percent each) minnella bianca and visparola are essential for sparking and spicing up carricante. Volcanics and the grapes that thrive on these basaltic flows make for a ballistic missile of minerals, acids and elements for a striking white such as this. About as taut, linear and intense as it gets, all adding up to arch classic, don’t even think about fruit Etna Bianco. Cracker stuff! Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Villagrande 2019

From the Contrada named with, by and for one of the oldest Etna estates and the original for the eastern slopes. If the Classico is one thing then this more specific iteration is a hyperbole of that taut, linear and intense and broader sourced Bianco. The true definition and respect for how things have come to pass out this in reverential and biblical light. Hard to find an equal level of attention to and completion of detail from an arch classic producer. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Isolano 2020

Lees and phenols, preserved citrus and some rustic bitters in the ways of limoncello. Curious, different and unique for Etna Bianco. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted May 2023

Gruppo Duca Etna Bianco DOC Lavico 2021

Waxy aromatics, like lemon-scented candle and quite the lees effect for an Etna Bianco made with (100 percent declared) carricante. Yet it feels like some other percentage of white grapes involved if only because of the weight and also lees major as noted in the type of yeasty notes found in this wine. Full on citrus tang, sweet/salty/sour mix and a wine that must be consumed fresh. A bit rustic. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted May 2023

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2021

Light side of the Etna Bianco spectrum, stretched and linear, mostly predicated on citrus. Not getting much wood or lees here, certainly no stirring in the vessels. Clean, taut and lime the number one noted fruit. Simplicity with tonic and fine bitters at the finish. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2021

From Etna’s eastern slope (as per the Superiore designation) and pure carricante. The Contrada “in front of the woods” and a Bianco of more earth and soil as compared to the Volpare. More texture, extract, tannin and overall structure with white pepper (in the way of grüner veltliner) and lime dousing over the finish. Good energy. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Cantina Nicosia Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Gorna Biologico 2022

Nicosia’ Bianco is cooled and made more accessible by 10 percent catarratto to enliven and even flesh out volcanically salty carricante. Notable lees usage and stirring with or without a little bit of wood. Tang, tart and edgy. Tins of citrus so it’s ultimately piqued and sharp. Bitter and hard at the finish. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Sicilia en Primeur on Ice

Serafica Etna Bianco DOC Grotta Della Neve 2019

Notably barrel aged straight from the flinty and ready aromas but it’s also a pretty phenolic example of Etna Bianco. Green herbs and ham, gelid in a way and more fruit than many. Lots going on in here though not all parts either mesh or follow one another. Preserved lemon, melon and lime. Doused in lime. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2018

Age apparent and the 2018s can go two ways with this Etna Bianco showing a bit more maturity than others of its ilk. Golden and beginning to express some honey though acidity and energy are quite special. Great presence and persistence though secondary character is involved and the best years will be from the last through to the next. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC DeAetna 2021

Of Etna (in Latin) and a Bianco made with carricante, catarratto and minnella that rises with fruit and also acidity like few others. Crisp and croccante while youthful though there can be little doubt the effect of ripeness, barrel aging and lees will all conspire to see this mature to next stage open heartedness approximately three years from now. Possibly earlier and so the best window will be a year from now through to three-plus after that. Some fine bitters, funky lees and piquing tang all need to settle. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Extreme unction and notable lees usage though keep in mind this is 2022. As young, impressionable and not quite out of the gangly stage as an Etna Bianco can act. Laden with lemon, much of it fresh squeezed, some unresolved phenolics (and aldehydes) and a shield of early structure or elastic membrane that is yet to slide away and reveal the full nature of what will surely be a cracker wine. Would much prefer to taste this a year from now. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2021

Tornatore’s Pietrarizzo always means serious Etna Bianco business because first off their carricante is chosen and is then thickened (so to speak) by the smallest (three percent) amount of catarratto). A most gelid white that gets into glycerol in ways that pretty much no other Bianco of this ilk will achieve. Singular wine and one to really solicit great opinion if only because it’s do darn textural and delicious. Those who don’t like are missing the point. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted twice, May and June 2023

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Scalunera 2021

Still very young and tight, aromatically closed but aching to get out. Crunchy and ever so knowably leesy, then chewy as those yeast solids bind with the tang of acid and kick of structure. A bit phenolic at the end though all in all the high level character comes close to meshing seamlessly together. Could use another six months in bottle. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Vivera Etna Bianco DOP 2022

Salisire is a magnificent Etna Bianco and so when Vivera’s Classico also comes along with high hopes it does not disappoint. Perhaps not the silky yellows and greens in florals and herbs of the Contrada-designate wine but as this is a 2022 there will be a future filled with unimpeded excellence for certain. Too young for bottle and for clarity though so much stuffing and impression should and will be available down the road. Need to revisit to truly get a sense of this wine. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Vivera Etna Bianco DOC Salisire Contrada Martinella 2018

High caste, fully-formed, substantial in all respects with the ripe phenols still very much at the head. Lovely fresh greens, in fiddleheads and avocado, fresh from a warm climate’s Spring. Good acid persistence and ample fruit put this is a fine place, just now into secondary character. Fun Etna Bianco for sipping and discussing, but most of all with a mess of local greens, either on their own or puréed over fresh pasta. Purely local and traditional. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Vivera A’mama 2021, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGP

Richly aromatic, phenolic and more middle of the road taken, appealing for its broad flavours and smooth textures. A blend of equally declared parts in carricante and chardonnay, at once sharp and then just creamy enough to create good harmony. Really effective work and a delicious mouthful for the 50-50 styling. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Etna Rosso

Etna Rosso

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Rosso DOC Croceferro (Generazione Alessandro) 2020

Rustic and dusty aromatically speaking in a balsamic-toned Rosso with clear and present ties to tradition. Fruit gels a bit sweeter in naturally earthy ways and quite a savoury wine is the result. Classic caponata and antipasti course Rosso in all its glory. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC 2020

Authentic is the first thought and yet there is more upfront fruit in the Barone’s 2020 profile to put it in an earlier drinking window than many of the classic producer’s wines. Very black cherry, dusty to a degree, macerate of plums and some drying if also austere tannins. A very good mid term Rosso to begin drinking a year from now. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Villagrande 2018

No doubt the Villagrande means more serious business and two years extra aging is simply not enough as compared to the Classico bottling. Tannins remain fierce while an earthy grouting persists and keeps the wine from coming together. Not the most ideal vintage for fruit or longevity but time will be an ally. The classicism and acumen are a guarantee even if we still do not clearly see the finish. Needs to shed some fat and overtly sour-edged chewy fruit for character more integrated and softened. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Dark skinned fruit well pressed to compress this Rosso into the depths of varietal and appellative style. Deep example of nerello mascalese and with respect to Contrada there is nothing cavalier about the character of this wine. Bones are strong and grip is tight for a structured Rosso that will take time to shed its dusty ways while balsamic, espresso and intensity will always be in the display. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2021

Much brighter and higher tonality as compared to Cavaliere, less dusty but even more lifted than that of the lower elevated contrada. My this reminds of high elevation sangiovee, like Radda per se but it is the sandy volcanics that give this Rosso its breath and life. Also needs another years, preferably two to settle in and open like a rose. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Dafara Galluzzo 2021

Of the three Contrada specified Rosso from Benanti it is this Dafara Galluzzo that marks the twain between the others, they being Cavaliere and Monte Serra. All the red fruits are represented, starting with raspberry but then come pomegranate and red currant. More fruit than many Etna wines, including the Rosso, with liquorice, a natural sweetness, fine acids, tannins and length. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Calderara Sottana 2021

Earthy and soil driven Rosso, immediately notable for its liquorice chew and a wine of its place. Here in Calderara Sottana the vines see the sun and take it all in, develop alcohol with ease and turn out darker fruit moving from red into a black spectrum. There is a natural sweetness and a clarity but the tight wind of tannin around flesh makes this a bit hard in the present tense. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2023

Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Marchesa 2019

The Marchesa delivers the reddest of dusty ochre, high-toned, tart citrus intensity of just about any Etna Rosso in the DOC. Scrapes of orange as well and a wood component that will need a few years to fully integrate. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Gruppo Duca Etna Rosso DOC Lavico 2021

Here flies nerello mascalese from the glass, sweetly, naturally and effectively. Bit of a seducer this one, wild strawberry at the fore, chewy and succulent, acids in tow. Simpler than many and also accessible so get at ‘er. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Cantine Nicosia Etna Rosso Superiore DOC Contrada Fonte San Nicolò 2016

Buggy as a result of high stem inclusion and therefore both reactive and reductive. A tough act for these old vines to find peace and tranquility when so much green savour is induced. Acids and tannins are fine, astringency is kept at bay and then herbals take over control. Rosemary, laurel and sage. Time will heal some wounds but not all of them. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Tasca D’almerita Etna Rosso DOC Tenute Taccante Contrada Piandario 2019

High elevation vineyard, well above the Alacantra valley floor up top the edge of the DOC limit and it shows. Some of the brightest and most red lightning scintillant fruit of them all, lifted yet beautifully judged and therefore squeaky clean. Perhaps just a bit too much wood but my if this is not the finest and purest Etna Rosso from Tasca. Delicate, chiseled, saline and really, really fine. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted May 2023

Terra Costantino Etna Rosso DOC d’Aetna Contrada 2021

A really fine fruit source, at once dusty but clearly juicy fruit mixed with acids of a medium therefore just ever so slightly lifted intensity. A sweet structural profile and the balsamic is just this way. Well made Rosso. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Terra Costantino Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Contrada Blandano 2018

Tougher Rosso from Blandano, fruit a bit baked and wood coming away a bit heavy on the side of vanilla and inky clayey. Nothing egregious but the flavours are souring and the texture notably liquid chalky. Will settle in and integrate to a degree. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Torre Mora Etna Rosso DOC Scalunera 2020

Good vintage to work with and so juicy fruit meets plenty of wood to find harmony halfway for a proper Etna Rosso. Add a Contrada cru effect and things rise up to a crescendo of singularity whereby the place is able to speak and do so in a clear tone. Solid and professional wine, aged to a good moment with a tannic hill built upon some austerity still to climb. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2019

Crunchy Rosso, cherry red fruit with some dusty plum and tannin, mostly salt and pepper seasoning to put this in a fine state of Rosso line. Chewy now, liquorice and carob, juiced by blood orange and one of those wines that’s quite sanguine, needing just a little bit more time. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2019

Tight, fulsome and lifted, here the 2019 vintage delivers a structured Pietrarizzo from a healthy does of wood for grippy, seasoned, starchy and as yet unresolved tannins. Still needs more time to come together, shed some fat, tighten the relationships and drink with its intended distinction.  Last tasted May 2023

Pietrarizzo is a truly historical contrada and the northern Etna cru where Tornatore makes both their (catarratto) Bianco and this varietal (nerello mascalese) Rosso. The vintage is in a word stellar, long and drawn out, as close to phenolic perfection as it exists and the kind of fruit that’s like sweet adult crack in Rosso form. More to the point and crux of the situation are the aspects of purity, seamless transitions and physical attraction to a really beautiful wine. Essence of l’Etna in the most modern of ways. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2019

Fine work from 2019 for Calderara, fruit at the fore and still in its freshest of formation. A beautiful example of the contrada and one to share for a decade to come. That said it’s almost ready so do not hesitate! Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Trimarchisa 2017

Warm vintage for the Trimarchisa Contrada delegate, they of 40-plus year-old vines on volcanics and degrading calcaire in Verzella, Castiglione di Sicilia. Mostly nerello mascalese though a few cappuccio vines here and there mixed in to create a smashing example of Etna Rosso defined by a sense of earth and place. A basaltic feel to be sure, balanced between saline and sapid, fruity and earthy, amenable and fortified. Juicy indeed with more acid than might be expected from 2017 but those who picked right were able to capture this must needed bit of catalyst acting magic. Not one for the ages necessarily but real, good and proper. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted March and May 2023

Vivera Etna Rosso DOP 2020

Well captured, pressed, macerated, concentrated and fortified fruit here from the fine 2020 vintage for Vivera. A nerello mascalese of obvious amenability and one to gift immediate gratification. There is a bit of stewed berry confiture aspect but it drinks easy for the present tense. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted May 2023

Vivera Etna Rosso DOC Martinella 2016

Martinella 2016 is reductive, locked in tight, not ready for its destined prime time. Cherries are light, bright and so very nerello red, mainly mascalese with (10 percent) cappuccio. Structure is solid and the parts of this wine are trying to fall into line, though perhaps will always be in the trying stage, even if given enough time. Drink if you must but please decant, regardless of how old this happens to be. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

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L’Etna at 3,374m

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