Category Archives: LCBO

Tasting through Portugal and the VINTAGES May 26th Release

Portuguese Corks

Three thematic release posts done, canada.com1, canada.com2, canada.com3, 16 more tasting notes to go. Shout out to Anne Yarymowich and Annick Le Goaix for some splendid Portuguese gastronomy last week at the AGO’s Wines of Portugal tasting. Read it at canada.com.

Anne Yarymovich. Credit: Dany Le Goaix

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quinta do Infantado Red 2009 (95158, $21.95) was the best Portuguese wine I tasted. João Roseira uses no yeasts, no additives, just grapes fermenting and developing by themselves. This is wine truly made in the vineyard. Balance in every facet. Smokey, meaty and fat for a three Tinto Douro, the Infantado offers up the greatest of simple pleasures.  89

Wines of Portugal Tasting. Credit: Dany Le Goaix

Lingenfelder Freinsheimer Musikantelbuckel Riesling Kabinett 2010 (87593, $17.95) wins the award for longest label. Ciders with pretty, apple effervescence and Vidal-esque hairspray viscosity but ultimately buckles under its own weight. Sad to see it leaving sa-soon.  85

Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (229856, $99.95) would have been a beastly treat if it were not corked.  NR

Ridge Monte Bello 2009 (711085, $145.95) is a wow wine. Deep, deep purple. Thick, oily extract of red bark and sugary berries baked in a pie. Offers crazy love and goes the full monte. “I can hear her heartbeat for a thousand miles.” Strikes fear and loathing in Wineontarians in need of a price kvetch. Get over it. Good wine is expensive. Ciao Bello!  93

Rubicon Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (29553, $74,95) dry rubs its sweetheart of the rodeo nose with brown sugar, thyme, sage, molido, ancho and fleur de sel. There are more ingredients but if we revealed them we’d have to kill you. Country Rock Cabernet. You don’t miss your water when killing this. This Cask cries out for flesh.  90

Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (280107, $24.95) the creamy vanilla shaken, not stirred Cab. Good structure and backbone if not a whole lotta linear, skyscraping action.  87

Urraca Cabernet Sauvignion 2008 (271080, $19.95) of Agrelo identifies with Provence. Mired in the weeds of dill, borage and thistle. Further herbal notes of tarragon along with olives and tobacco. So much savoury.  85

Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2006 (971705, $39.95) is bold, beefy and blasted from blown speakers. The new pornography in Aussie Shiraz, impressive for its place and will show some balance 10 years on. Certainly no Scrooge and generous with matters of fruit and heart. “A lot of oyster but no pearls.” Will get you through a long December.  92

Tait The Ball Buster Red 2009 (269472, $24.95) is a bitch. Tart and flavoured by sun-kissed berries, jawbreaker and gobstopper. Dense and concentrated, “stone cold sober as a matter of fact.”  88

Astrolabe Voyage Pinot Noir 2009 (179200, $24.95) trips the tongue, grips the mouth and sends them spiralling into space. Expressive of vanilla and baking spices. Big tannins for Marlborough Pinot. Needs a little spirit of the west and to “go home for a rest.”  86

Sequillo Cellars Red 2009 (277996, $29.95) ankles along a rocky Swartland road. Hard lines make this ambitious South African seem Mourvedre dominated.  86

Momessin Les Griottes Morgon 2010 (276402, $17.95) casts a lovely opaque, red lollipop hue. Bitter tar, griottes and sherry join red apple in this darling Gamay. “Let there be sunlight, let there be rain,” drink this Beaujolais off and on again.  87

Chateau Pipeau 2008 (138131, $29.00) always offers great Bordeaux value but this bottle is flawed. Smells like merde.  NR

Di Majo Norante Ramitello 2009 (973214, $15.95) steps right up to the IVR* plate and antes up mezzogiorno shun with liturgical love. Sun melted licorice and grilling scents meet juicy acidity, finesse and restrained power. Molto bene.  89

Coto De Imaz Gran Reserva 2001 (976811, $29.95) is highly concentrated for Rioja, especially at 11 years old. Tempting leafy aromas as of tobacco and tumbling like a Billy Tallent riff.  Or is that just my Imaz-ination, “running away with me.”  88

Delas Frères Saint Esprit Côtes Du Rhône Rosé 2011 (224964, $12.95) offers up strawberry, rhubarb and cream with a savoury accent. Subtle pale, pink, see-through hue and warming humidity. Great value here. Rosie you’re all right. “Looks like it’s me and you again tonight.”  88

Good to go!

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-To-Value Ratio

VINTAGES May 26, 2012 Release: Tuscany

Vineyards in Tuscany. Credit Peter Gridley

May 23, 2012

More from the VINTAGES, May 26th Release:

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/21/vintages-may-26-2012-release-chardonnay/

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/23/vintages-may-26-2012-release-tuscany/

Here five terrific wines that raise the bar for the varietally variable and blue-blooded Sangiovese. Etruscan treasures of high benevolence, proud and unwavering in stature. Quality across the board from Aziendie Agricoli enjoying a new Renaissance and representing a vinous gateway to classical civilization. Architecturally driven bottles of pleasure, engineered today by masters of their craft.

Vicchiomaggio Agostino Petri Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 (993360, $19.95) represents immense IVR* in modish CCR. High toned Sangiovese fruit perhaps void of a certain transparency but in equity with necessary acidity.  Forward thinker and delicious. The ’01 was $25.95.   88

 

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico 2007 (39768, $33.95) the dictionary entry for CC defined eclipses the storied ’04 and ’06 in weight, balance and power. Complex, confounding, a funk of its own accord, not animal or barnyard, but something other. A Stanley Clarke, Zabadoobeede Bass Days beat. Smoke, tar and grotto florals like a Snake Head’s Frittilary.  92

La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (279083, $39.95) of compendiary and dirtless, sylvan cherry spice is “hard to handle now,” a corvo nero to Chianti’s gallo. Gangly at present, the old school Mannella will grow in stature to shake its money maker and take off in future flight.  88

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (353201, $43.95) is money, a Siena red and golden sunset of  licorice sweetness. Viscous liquere-spiked espresso with big tannic grip. Five to 10 years away from pay dirt.  89

Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (651141, $59.95) of fat and hearty, bubbling beef broth contributes towards defining Tuscan animale in Sangiovese. Iron and lead brined cherries soaking in beef suet. This Antinori is a resplendent, modern expression of Brunello.  91

Good to go!

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-To-Value Ratio

VINTAGES May 26, 2012 Release: Chardonnay

Chardonnay Grapes

 

 

May 21, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/21/vintages-may-26-2012-release-chardonnay/

 

 

May 24th happens to be the third annually designated Chardonnay Day so this quintet of quality gold comes in right on cue. This a marketing concept using social media as the thread that connects the global conversation together. All the while raising a glass to Chardonnay’s continued ascension back to global prominence.

 

Closson Chase K.J. Watson Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (230912, $34.95) teaches an elementary lesson in Upper Canada terrior. The best Chard sites along the Niagara River grow fierce, fighting vines, in turn producing “green tiger” grapes of great colour. The Watson is viscous, with aromatics as if Stag’s Leap Viognier, where white peach and rock lobster are fruggin’ on the beach at cocktail hour. “Pass the tanning butter.”  90

Closson Chase    KJ Watson Chardonnay 2009

 

Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2010 (251223, $74.95) of laser focus allows the complex nature of this cuvée to “glitter, glisten, gloss, floss.” The Sonoma Noisetiers is often hazy hued as is the nature of its unfined and unfiltered ways but here in’10 it’s metallic, shiny, scaled back a notch and open to the whole world. Less nut, more gold and very focused. My favourite to date.  91

Kistler Les Noisetieres Chardonnay 2010

 

Mount Eden Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (17988, $25.95) is a toddler as compared to its extraordinary adult, Santa Cruz cousin. This SV was the wolf’s howl back when it came in under $20. It is worth admitting that junior is heavy on the toasty BTU’s, green apple core, band aid and tang the juice (sorry, drink) crystal.  87

Mount Eden Wolff Chardonnay 2009

 

Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010 (903617, $20.95) darts to and fro like a cat. Intense, verdigris, cheeky CVR**and soft as banana cream pie. Oscillates but has remarkable balance and Margaret River reflexes, landing on all fours. Length to cure an odd coupling thirst and ‘unger.  89

Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010

 

Domaine Chenevières Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2009 (277921, $29.95) the bittersweet symphony traverses a grippy, yellow moonscape. Tart pears and peppery spice drift in the zero gravity air but do not persist. The lack of verve renders this Fourchaume weightless and down to earth. A Burgundian urban hymn.  88

Domaine Chenevières Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2009

 

 

 

Good to Go!

 

 

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-To-Value Ratio

 

 

4.7 billion reasons to love the LCBO

 

May 17, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/17/4-7-billion-reasons-to-love-the-lcbo/

 

Transferring a record $1.55 billion to the Ontario government, the LCBO was able to give 9.9 per cent more than the previous year. According to Kristin Craik, “clearly, as by LCBO’s successful example during the global recession, the alcohol industry thrives in times of strife.” So good was business, the LCBO was able to open 19 new stores and carry out major upgrades to 32 others.

 Here are the figures:

  • Net sales of $4.710 billion for 2011-12, up $218 million or 4.9 per cent over 2010-11
  • Transfer of  a record $1.63 billion dividend to the Ontario government, $80 million or 5.2 per cent more than in 2010-11
  • Net income rose $98 million to $1.658 billion, up 6.3 per cent
  • Vintages’ sales rose 10.2 per cent or $39 million over the previous year to $425 million
  • Wine sales rose 5.7 per cent to $1.66 billion (whites up 6.6 per cent, reds up 5.2 per cent)

“Net sales growth resulted from consumers trading up to premium products, incremental sales from new stores, an appealing product mix and effective marketing,” LCBO president and CEO Bob Peter said in a statement.

It comes as no surprise that the LCBO recorded a record profit for the 17th consecutive year. The only shock is that despite continued consumer unrest and unparalleled Canadian capitalist savvy, no one has been able to do anything about it.

In the past year we’ve seen mobs, movements, protests and sit-ins. A St. Patrick’s Day riot rocked London, Occupy Toronto sat in parks, squares and malls and Quebec students have raged to protest tuition fees. How has the LCBO remained immune to violent demands for change? Well, for one thing, that $1.55 billion deposit into the province’s coffers goes along way towards paying for health care and education, not to mention roads (wink, wink, say no more). And, they have taken social responsibility to an unprecedented educational level. Just don’t ask Martin Cohn or Jan Wong about their take on the issues.

According to the Ontario Auditor General report, the LCBO is not using its buying power to negotiate the best prices. Wine geeks grumble incessantly about the LCBO’s failure to use their top three world buying power to negotiate good deals. While that is certainly true, especially with respect to California imports, there are more wines at competitive prices available, at all times, then I could ever want for my cellar. Winetarians listen up. You don’t need that bottle of overpriced Pontet-Canet, Pahlmeyer or Petrus. Analyze the product offerings, locate the good deals and buy something else.

 
 
Good to go!
 
 
 
Sources:

ottawacitizen.com

businessreviewcanada.com

canadianbusiness.com