Category Archives: Life

In Dominus We Invest

From Saturday’s February 18th, 2012 VINTAGES release, the great Napicon, conspicuous with a Parker (99) to boast its already inflated position. I tasted it and it truly is da bomb. Is it worth the asking price? That depends on what question you are actually asking.

DOMINUS 2008 (212381, $145.95) solicits riposte for parry, to buy or not to buy. The omnipotently voluptuous one resides in a tramontane locale, beyond reach and also the pale. A shocking parade of profound, hyper-purple personality. Even if it suffers “the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune“, a lucky man this Dominus, “all dressed in satin,” “nor woman neither.” Colour field shockingly crimson and amarinthine, textured with rich and layered brush stroke, as if Red on Maroon. A Lama, “the flowing robes, the grace, bald…striking.” To me this ’08 leans more Ornellaia than Pétrus.   mjg 97

Dominus 2008

 

Good to go!

Judgement at Barberian’s, Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Now to share with you one taster’s fascination of experience,  his infectious enthusiasm and his awe in the presence of greatness.

 

by featured writer Jascha Baraness

Last week, I was fortunate enough to get invited to an epic BYOW Burgundy dinner in the wine cellar at Barberian’s Steakhouse. First we sipped Champagne, paired with oysters and shrimp so big they would make lobsters blush. Everyone mingled until the bubbles had dissipated.  The host then led the way further down into the main cellar, set with a long table for the party. Here we were all able to look at what our dining partners had chosen to bring.  This two tiered room is a glorious cathedral of wine, with every last square inch of wall space adorned with cubbies filled to the brim with the world’s greatest titles.  If you’ve never seen it, it’s definitely worth the visit on your next trip to the Toronto institution.
 
The wines came out in flights each with great contrast of styles and age.
Whites came first and through all the flights the highlight was the ’96 1er cru Butteaux from the master of Chablis, Francois Raveneau.  He makes wines that are so focused you feel like you’re walking on a tightrope negotiating this searing acidity on one side, and pure, concentrated Chardonnay tree fruit and citrus on the other – phenomenal.  Comte Lafon’s ’06 Meursault Clos de la Barre shone, showing restrained power backed by just the right amount of oak.  Also to be noted was the Tawse-Marchand ’09 Corton showing wisdom beyond it’s youth – will be a gem a few years down the road.
 
There were too many reds to recount, but as always in Burgundy the cream rises to the top.  In order of consumption; a ’95 Volnay Taillpieds from Marquis D’Angerville still youthful.  A ’90 Chateau de La Tour Clos de Vougeot still caressing through flexed muscles.  The ’89 DRC Romanee St. Vivant with the ethereal quality that the legendary house is famous for. Two Ruchottes Chambertin from Leroy and Rousseau, the ’85 and ’05 respectively, giving insight into a glorious vineyard a generation apart.  A close friend of mine and I measure wine by the ‘magic’ content in bottles from the Cote D’or which on this particular evening earned it’s name.
 
Our hosts were kind enough to provide us with a magnum of Hermitage from Chave to wash it all down with as well as an ’83 d’Yquem with cheese that made me close my eyes hope that the moment would never end. It was an evening of palette pampering that I won’t soon forget.   JB
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Wines in each flight are listed in order of favourites.

Flight #1

  1. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé  NV
  2. Charlie Burger Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Classé Champagne NV

Flight #2

  1. François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1996
  2. Domaine Servin Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2002
  3. Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005
  4. Vincent Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet 1999 Grand Cru (oxidized)

Flight #3

  1. Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2006
  2. Domaine Matrot Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru 2007
  3. Domaine Roulot Meursault “Les Luchets” 2002
  4. Domaine Latour-Giraud Les Genevrieres, Meursault Premier Cru 2007

Flight #4

  1. Marc Colin et Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2005
  2. Marchand-Tawse Corton Grand Gru 2009
  3. Domaine Dublere Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007

Flight #5

  1. Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Taille Pieds, Volnay Premier Cru 1995
  2. Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny 2002

Flight #6

  1. Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1990
  2. Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2006
  3. Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2001

Flight #7

  1. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 1989
  2. Domaine George Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2000
  3. Merry Edwards Pinot Noir ’30’ Russian River Valley 2003
  4. Domaine Rene Engel Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 1999 (corked)

Flight #8

  1. Domaine Arlaud Aux Combottes, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 1999
  2. Remoissenet Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers 1er Cru 2007

Flight #9

  1. Domaine Leroy Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1985
  2. Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru 2005
  3. Domaine Ponsot Charmes-Chambertin Cuvee des Merles Grand Cru 1996
  4. Champy Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2007
  5. Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1996

Flight #10

  1. Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Premier Cru 2007
  2. Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flight #11

  1. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge (Magnum) 2000

Flight #12

  1. Château d’Yquem 1983

 

 

 

Good to go!

Canadian Pond Hockey, Beyond Beer

 
Curious to know what wine to drink with Pond Hockey? On Saturday night of the big tourney we had a pot luck dinner and opened these wines…
 
KUNDE ZINFANDEL 2007 (965921, $16.95). Like waiting for a loved one, gazing hopefully at the overhead screen, patiently anticipating this VINTAGES arrival. Barque BBQ price and personality. Bang the drum slowly while the fat renders and enter Zin city. Jettison of bramble, berry and brawn yet no cloying trail of exhaust.   mjg 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
X WINERY NAPA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 ($29.95) protrudes as a big nose of capsicum and perfumed poppies with a ton of dark fruit. Grainy tannins will require some aeration. Sure value in mid-round Napa draft choices. I’ll buy tickets to the first few seasons and drink up before free agency sets in.  Available through www.25brix.com.  mjg 90

 

 

 

 

 

 

For seven years I have been playing in the Taylor Cup Pond Hockey Tournament to raise money for Cancer research at Princess Margaret Hospital.  We skate on the frozen ice of Sparrow Lake at Bayview Wildwood Resort.  The weekend was everything we hoped it would be and more. Every game was played on ice and no injuries to report. Shout out to our heroes year after year, hosts Lisa, Brian, Brenda and all the volunteers.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Over $120,000 was raised to support cancer at PMHF. This brings our seven year total to $807,000. My team, VanHooterman raised the second most amount of funds, $13,775. Kudos to my teammates as our seven-year total has now exceeded more than $80,000.
 
We skated to a 2-2 record, not bad for a bunch of old guys and we kept our string alive. No Sunday games, except for the parents and kids shinny, another Taylor Cup tradition.  
 

Cooper and Arlo, Taylor Cup 2012
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Here is a link to the Taylor Cup page:
 
 
 
 
 
Good to go!
 
 
 

A Selection of Halpern’s Rhône Portfolio

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012

One Restaurant at the Hazleton Hotel, 134 Yorkville Avenue

Domaine Du Pegau and Selection Laurance Féraud

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Laurence’ 2006 ($135) “is approachable” says Laurence because she does the ageing here for us. Somehow I still foresee an extended bivouac of hibernation. Though emerging due to four years elévage (double the reservée), this is Grenache running on a treadmill of adrenaline, a bear post gym workout, sweat glands pumping out the musk.  That Pegau perfume, unmistakable, omnipresent. Consistent with the ’05.  94

Pegau CL 2006

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Réservée’ 2009 ($85) sees higher co2 treatment to counterbalance the heat of the vintage. This is “necessary for ageing,” admits Laurence. Here a return to the Pegau of old, perhaps as far back as 1990 but for sure 1998. The perfume can’t be missed, as are notes of phrygana sprouting up through the crevices of boulders. A very traditional CdP, smokey, herbal and spiced on a berry bed of rubies.  93

Cotes du Rhône 2010 ($14) comprises grapes selected by Féraud and succeeds in ’10 because of the high percentage (80%) of Syrah. A purple slew of black cherry fruit mixed with bocage and earth. Well-made despite its negociant pedigree. The purchase of 38 hectares should result in the production of 20,000-25,000 cases of CdR under the auspices of the Pegau label for 2011.  85

Lot 2009 Selectionne Laurence Féraud Plan Pegau ($16) is non-vintage self-promotional branding, once again well-proportioned, if unexciting. It’s really de-classified, quaff material for undefined table wine. I’d drink it all year round at $5 bucks a shot.  84

Domaine de Cristia

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($43) displays less funk and more finesse than most. “Oak is used not to oak,” says winemaker Baptiste Grangeon, “it is used to make the wines open.” A glass of strawberry jam in the morning. High in Grenache because “Syrah was too fat in 2009” adds Grangeon, this is benevolent, ‘resto ready’, lush stuff. Very underrated.  91

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Renaissance’ 2009  ($85) is made from 100-year old vines in sandy soils and aged in 100% new oak. Grenache (60%) and high in Mourvedre (40%) because the latter “worked so well in 2009” says the man. Found to be tight, biting and beastly, but shows signs of a meaty future with thyme on its side.   92

Cristia CdP 'Renaissance' 2009

Cotes du Rhône ‘Les Garrigues Vielles Vignes’ 2010 ($20) personifies old Grenache, as the name would suggest. High toned, ethereal, subaqueous, stygian and complex.  90

Grenache Vielles Vignes 2010 ($17) is an excellent Vin De P’ays, full of red cherries, strawberries and petiole. A well-orchestrated one-grape symphony. 88

Paul Jaboulet Aine

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Cedres’ 2007 ($52) shines purple and blue like a Van Gogh starry night over the Rhône. The colour of heuchera growing out of tanzanite, the ‘cedars’ offers the sensation of chewing on a wooden bat smothered in pine tar and sugary plum pudding. Thumbs want to go two up but the bitumin is in need of a snooze. 88

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Les Jalets’ Blanc 2010 ($29) faces antipodal to a promise of a shaped stone. Ore is subdued in favour of fun, cheery, soft fruit in a flocculent, alabaster frame. Nectarine blossom and fresh shucked peaches and cream corn give way to the finishing purity of Marsanne. 89

Crozes-Hermitage ‘Domaine de Thalabert’ 2007 ($49) with its caper and black pepper infused black cherry cordial cries kush with its powerful, purple crush. 100% Syrah and nothing but Syrah. Defines the appellation. 90

Jaboulet Thalabert CH 2007
Hermitage ‘La Petite Chapelle’ 2007 ($109) hails from six granite hillside vineyards known as ‘Hermitage Hill’ and the ‘Sunshine Slope.’ “Now somewhere in the black mountain hills” there lived a pretty baby composed of 100% Syrah. This little raccoon is warm, fuzzy and ready. Too soft for long life. 89
 
 
Dauvergne-Ranvier
 
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Vin 2010 ($38) is gentle and unpretentious. Higher on botany, quieter in depth of power fruit, but still early in its evolution. A sound composition if quiet on the back beat. 88

Luberon Vin Gourmand 2010 ($13) is the sweetest thing, “blue-eyed boy meets brown eyed-girl.” You two can enjoy life as a bowl of cherries, fresh, light and lithe. 86

St. Joseph Vin Rare ($32) mismatches expressions, sits cumbersome, heavy and noses disjointedly. Dendritic forget-mineral-me-nots burst in vacillating waves and the concentration wavers erratically. 86

Vacqueyras 2009 ($25.95) is restricted, opening with benign notes, sleeping hollowly in mid stride and closing tight in the end. Pithy Kirsch wants to appear but only time will let it act. 87

 

Vignobles Michel Gassier and Les Halos de Jupiter

Halos de Jupiter Cotes du Rhone 2010 ($17.95) is no orphan of the storm. It strides in angelic and sweet talking. Just plain smooth, cream filled and easy to drink. This CdR gives up copious Grenache from a velvet glove, ready to perform miracles.  88

Halos Jupiter CdR 2010

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 ($67) may currently be more beast than beauty but the concentrated levels of cassis and raspberry cuddle and spoon. Six months in bottle will soften the edges and it too will be a woo monster. Shares a La Crau locale with Vieux-Telegraphe.  89

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Gigondas 2009 ($34) battles harder to win adoration with its sharp lines and deep cutting acidity. Cooling menthol and eucalyptus strays from its homeland to distant heights and locales. There is a permanent drip and dampness here and an odour of mossy rocks. Unconventional.  87

Halos de Jupiter ‘Phillipe Cambie’ Vacqueyras 2009 ($30) would champion this flight if only it were priced as a Vacqueyras. The first Halo to show garrigue and spice, it also flaunts ethereal hydrogen, helium, and methane gasses.  A wine of luxury living beyond its means.  88

Michel Gassier ‘Lou Coucardie’ Costieres de Nimes 2007 ($34) speaks volumes in alcohol. Here Kirsch and crunchy raspberries are on steroids. Chewing off both arms may be necessary to get away from the Couc’s bed.  89

Michel Gassier ‘Notre Pais’ Costieres de Nimes 2009 ($19) travels a spice route from Asia Minor to Indonesia. Notes of peppermint tea and Kretek cigarettes are joined by aromatic bitters and dark, nutty ale.  87

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

 

VINE DIRT – RECENT TASTINGS

A heterodoxical winter. No blanket of white stuff.  To that inclination I travel against the grain for an encounter with three smoking pearls off the list at Barque.

 

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO VIOGNIER ‘LA VIOLETTE’ 2010 ($18.25) shows great floral intensity for a Vin de Pays d’Oc.  Condrieu intuition coaxes spiced nuts and yerba apricot tea from grapes grown in Languedoc. I waver not from the joy in its necessity, even as it descends a wafer thin minty slope to peter out. Certainly prettier than a Flyer’s coach.  88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FIELDING ESTATE CHARDONNAY UNOAKED 2008 ($13.95) is squeaky clean and cheap so “my money flows like wine.” The band plays Dixie while I eat too much chicken, the food and wine marching saintly, effortlessly in. More Mutsu than Meyer, more alfalfa than clover.  A golden, herbal remedy.  87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO 2010 ($19.95) is spring in winter, perennial in its success, consistent and always sharp in attack. Garganega that is oddly mindful of lemon paraffin wax tubes from the Wiz having gone to college in the Loire and now living as a mature adult in the Veneto. Opiate anaesthetic on the finish renders teeth and gums numb and void.  89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

Rat Pack Picks, List of Icons, VINTAGES Classics, February 2012

 

PAUL AUTARD CUVÉE LA CÔTE RONDE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007 (221911, $59) arrives en retard and my elation is ushered in by a bard’s prose. Cassis in all its gratifying forms is the critical buzz code. Noticeable oak for CdP, black beauty, decadent filly. The coast is clear for the Côte to cellar for a decade or more. Côte Ronde is a cuvée fellow Rhône winemakers line up to purchase, the wine equivalent to restos local chefs go for grub on days off. JM-WS (95), RP (95), RJ (93), JR-ST (92+), CT’s (93) and RR (94) noting “…not a hard edge to be found. The wine has stunning balance.”

Autard Cote Ronde 2007

BODEGAS SAN ROMÁN 2006 (250985, $49) is the toast of Toro, Mr. T. to me. A $60+ US release that is so freaking CVR** I pity the fool that takes a pass. Displays black, inky and masculine like a Gombe Chimpanzee, tannins thrashing madly. A dictator with a stern warning that no challenge to power will occur for a minimum five to ten. Touted by TM-WS (93) and MS-WE (94) who claims “San Román is once again one of the two or three best wines from Toro.” Iberian conociendo Quentin Sadler of now defunct Catavino calls it “a great wine.” RP (93) and JR-IWC (92) round out the reviews.

San Roman 2006

Another Wine Tasted:

CASTELLO DI AMA, CHIANTI CLASSICO, VIGNETO BELLAVISTA 2007 (163337, $159). Now this is something other. One foot not just in the new world inhabited by the likes of Kosta Browne, but in the future of what Chianti Classico will be. The other sends me back to an August 1995 afternoon in Lecchi, beckoned down a narrow flight of stairs by una signora vecchia and offered a taste of the ’90 Bellavista in Ama’s cluttered enoteca. Lorenza Selasti-Pallanti tells me the woman still pours in that shop and is now 80 years-old. Guess she wasn’t so old in ’95…this ’07 shares an affinity with that ’90, of burgundy plum, earth, spice and smoke. Would like to read its tea leaves in 2025.  mjg 93

Other icons of note:

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM 2007 (99382, $895)

E. GUIGAL EX-VOTO ERMITAGE 2007 (54130, $325)

DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT VIEILLES VIGNES BRAND RIESLING 2007 (271866, $89)

HENRIOT CUVÉE DES ENCHANTELEURS BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1996 (83774, $225)

IL CABERLOT 2007 (167296, 1500 mL, $354)

ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2004 (711440, $399)

QUINTARELLI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2000 (224485, $399) 

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2005 (336388, $499)

ACHAVAL FERRER FINCA BELLA VISTA MALBEC 2008 (178103, $95) 

CATENA ZAPATA NICOLÁS CATENA ZAPATA 2007 (662702, $99)

JONATA LA SANGRE DE JONATA 2007 (220517, $145)

JOSEPH PHELPS INSIGNIA 2007 (737346, 1500 mL, $575)

STAGLIN 25th ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 (716258, $229)

SHAFER HILLSIDE SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 (735712, $279)

Disappointed by the Price Increase:
CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D’ARAGONA PIANROSSO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2006 (162958, $95)

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to Go!

More Picks from VINTAGES CLASSICS, FEBRUARY 2012

Here a first. An endorsement of not only two wines by the same producer, but two Mâconnais. Get past the sexual innuendo of the appellation and give papa JJ Vincent some sugar. These are Chards of explosive character; wood prominent but not dominant, richly textured, party on the buds. Secret stashers consider Pouilly-Fuissé a hidden gem. According to Steven Spurrier, Château Fuissé’s Les Combettes, Les Brulés and Le Clos “are likely to be the first vineyards in the appellation to be classified Premier Cru.” Vincent’s wines do not vacillate, speak the truth and receive attention without ever asking for it. Some non-fiction for your reading pleasure:

http://simplywines.wordpress.com/2011/01/22/chateau-fuisse/

CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ LES BRULÉS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (259820, $49) from the south facing ‘burnt’ slope is crème de la crème, fraîche et caramel. Consensus converges on 2013 but contemporary oak attack to me suggests cellaring for longer than what you might read. WS (92), WE (92), BH (91), CT’s (91), RJ (90) and Decanter (****, 16.5) are in the know.

Fuisee Brules 2009

CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (947721, $54) is the showier of the two. Extroverted, flirty, ready to dance. My note: The meritorious Mâconnais, stupid good with mounds of melon, pear and honey. A huge step up from the already impressive ’09 taxi squad teammates. Chards of diamond acidity cut through the nectarous textures and flavours. Streaks of genius.  mjg 92

Fuisse Viellies 2009

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to Go!

VINTAGES CLASSICS FEBRUARY 2012

A link to the release:

http://www.vintages.com/classics/cc_main.shtml

Flip Book:

http://www.vintages.com/classics/111025/index.shtml

PDF:

http://www.vintages.com/classics/cc_111025pdf_en.shtml

From penal colony to world wine power, Australia has crossed many a bridge in its compendious 250 years. Now something is amiss. VINTAGES flitted “First Families” back on April 30th, “Aussie Somewhereness” on January 21st but now the gesture resembles a flipped bird towards the LDU. Four wines represented. Four? Two years ago there were 36. So why has VINTAGES abandoned the cobbers? Are the arbiters disgusted by rows of reductive tinctures languishing on shelves like tin soldiers in a hobby shop? Consider this. Speculative investment into an already strong Aussie dollar has soared since the beginning of the year, with the downside heaving a negative impact on sectors such as manufacturing, tourism and yes, wine exports. VINTAGES stopped buying Oz because consumers are transparent in their quest for value and IVR* from Chile, Argentina, Spain, New Zealand and South Africa. Fault not the winemakers from the hot continent. The economic lot handed to them beats down their competitive spirit. Looking back 10 years that is almost hard to believe. OK, a fair crack of the whip for a true blue battler charitably down $12 from ’07.

MITOLO REIVER SHIRAZ 2008 (41145, $43) is a Barossan dinki-di with all the bramble, savoury earth and pho spice one can imagine. Sure, the compressed berries and sharp twang will go to town like a sour, hard candy and render one full as a goog. Fair suck of the sav, mate. Cry me a reiver and re-acquaint your mind with flavour. HS-WS (94), LPB-RP (93), JO (93) and JH (95) are followers. Will drink beautifully in five to seven.

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to Go!

VINTAGES February 4th Release

The link:

http://www.vintages.com/circular/circ_main.shtml

We are all familiar with the cachet that is California Cabernet. Two plus decades have seen the comfortable caste consume Napa Cabs alongside rare beef asado. Oh but times do change. Let me give you the Snoop. Grain eating, methane dispensing bovine suppliers no longer moo as masters of their domain. The elevated vegetable, sustainable fished and farmed sea creatures and especially everything porcine are it in “these times of hate and pain.” Following suit, the once stand alone Cabs are no longer immune and they too are just a piece within the wonted pie. For the same price give me the Rhone, potete portarmi Toscana o Piemonte! Let bygones be bygones and yet icons remain icons. Mailing lists, cult wines? Not in Canada. This VINTAGES release does sport four legends, including Caymus ’09 (sample unfortunately corked), Mondavi Private Reserve ’07 (overpriced) and Dunn ’07 (not the Dunn it once was). At near one hundred bones look to Beaulieu.

BEAULIEU VINEYARD GEORGES DE LATOUR PRIVATE RESERVE 2007 (80218, $89.95) is back. I was high on the ’05 and now the majors are on side. RP (95) says it’s the best since ’68 and ’70. ST (93) notes , “…certainly the best vintage for this wine in recent years.” CT’s (93) speak with overwhelming enthusiasm. An Ontario steal considering it’s $104 US. Here, from Food and Wine:

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/the-making-of-a-legendary-napa-cabernet

Beaulieu GL PR 2007

LA POSTA ANGEL PAULUCCI VINEYARD MALBEC 2008 (75515, $15.95) brings me back to the well for another Laura Catena project. The Pauluccis take budget Malbec out its comfort zone and stretch the thinking to terroirs back in the motherland and beyond. Inky as Dante’s blotter, an inferno of hot rocks, “lava flowing in the farmer’s direction.” Laura, ahead by a century. Maureen C. Petrosky of Food Republic is a fan, as is JR-ST (89), DR. J.-RP (88) and the CT’s (88). A $20 Malbec to lead the IVR*.

la_posta_paulucci_malbec '08 

M. CHAPOUTIER PETITE RUCHE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2009 (264655, $22.95) has shown marked improvement and a move to integrate modernity over the past five vintages. Shows off “killer graces…soft French cream…and her love could save you from the bitterness.” Better than Guigal and worth the coin. JM-WS (90), ST (89) and JG-WA (91) are three to have reason for belief. Northern Rhone Syrah under $25 is hard to come by so she’s the one.

Chap PR CH 2009

Other Wines Tasted:

MACMURRAY RANCH CHARDONNAY 2009 (262063, $21.95) goes OTT lock, stock and toasted barrel, saved mercifully by a beam of banana, Tropicana. Like a 3-star Caribbean beach vacation complete with astro-turf corridors and chalky pina colada mix.  85 

A TO Z PINOT GRIS 2009 (258145, $19.95) sends scents of masala spiced butter chicken to draught with “a smell of peach blossom and bitter almonde.” A broad melody of sweet undertones subdue the inner amaroidal.  87

GRAN LURTON CORTE FRIULANO 2010 (66829, $19.95) is all tang and torchon, continents away from your nonna’s Friuli. A landed grenade of oak, fruit masked by the slash and burn, fire in the hole! Shaded roasted almandine and in flavour too.  84 

MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE VIEILLES VIGNES MEURSAULT 2009 (241091, $48.95) amalgamates citrus spice, baked brie and potpourri where subtlety is thy name. No mischief from Little Nicky here as Potel’s potential is glimpsed with this groovy white Burgundy.  89

DOMAINE FOUASSIER LES GRANDS SANCERRE 2009 (267948, $24.95) is a honey of a girl and commits a new world order to memory. A motel of gooseberry and grass that causes your teeth “to slightly curl.” Chewy, crushed rock talc add to the party in the mouth. They are all $25 but this one fits the bill.  89 

VOLLENWEIDER WOLFER GOLDGRUBE RIESLING KABINETT 2008 (249730, $21.95) is a snort of dried golden kiwi and persimmon yet markedly, chemically wet to taste. Lavender later, the wolf is a lithe moonraker, skirting the surface of the tongue and stealing sensations. Unusual and complex.  87 

MISSION HILL RESERVE MERLOT 2008 (553313, $25.95) noses initially as if right bank cru bourgeois but that BC syrah-like je ne sais quois creeps in. Then I take a sip from the freshly opened bottle and there is only sludge. Ahhh! Flawed specimen.  NR 

FROG’S LEAP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 (932400, $58.95) carries classic aromas of cassis, black cherry and smokey oak. A whiskey-laced hot chocolate anglaise follows suit. A big Napa Cab, the best FL I’ve tasted to date. Needs three to five for full integration.  91 

DECERO REMOLINOS VINEYARD MALBEC 2008 (247304, $22.95) noses smoke, ash, tar and munificent berries if a bit out of joint. To its good humour I acquiesce for here is a Malbec with veins but no vanity. Dense, bulky but hugely shaped.  90

VIÑA COBOS FELINO MERLOT 2010 (248492, $19.95) is a vegetable, spore and mineral knotty balm. Reminiscent of something Italian, or more incidentally mini-Bolgheri, this Merlot feigns milli vanilli boxy constraint. I expected more of Mr. Hobbs considering the recent successes of his Malbec and Cabernet. Despite the glowing reports for 2010 in Argentina I’ll have to blame it on the (lack of) January rain.  85

 PLUNKETT FOWLES STONE DWELLERS SHIRAZ 2008 (265967, $19.95) smells divine perhaps because I have nosed so much merde already today. Big, chewy and oak mounted, this Strathbogie seems to have just been pulled from the barbie. Attenuates for a spell then finishes just beyond par.  87

DOMAINE PERRIN NATURE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2010 (948059, $16.95) is haggis and chitlin con carne washed down with a glass of absinthe.  79

XAVIER CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2009 (244814, $39.95) is non-sectarian in its unusual GMS blend and it shows. Fully attune by CdP standards, the sweet, candied kirsch fruit is easily gulped. Simple for the appellation and unpretentiously delish.  89

KIR-YIANNI RAMNISTA XINOMAVRO 2008 (178020, $18.95) is akin to Nebbiolo but also Loire Cabernet Franc. A cherry core leads to a longing for more. Currants, cherry tomato and mildly brined olives join the fun. “See-NO-ma-vro” sees no evil and hears no complaints.  88

LEONE DE CASTRIS RISERVA SALICE SALENTINO 2007 (597534, $17.95) erupts odiferously with roasted licorice and smoldering tomato leaf. The reduction of red and black fruits are sweet and tangy.  87

CORTE PAVONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 (237263, $49.95) is spun like a quaffle with a level of velocity and tannin impossible to catch. There is a gamey varnish to the fruit and an oomph of brio that “tingles to the bone.” Wait five years to discover a simple twist of fate.  90

FONTODI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008 (933317, $28.95) “you’re so fine…it blows my mind.” Pure expression of Sangiovese. Salient in every facet. Oak, fruit, acidity all in harmony. May I call you Mickey?  91

CORTES DE CIMA CHAMINE 2010 (650291, $15.95) is powered by bitter herbs, brackish olives and burnt nut butter. I sense some volatile acidity here. An untamed beast?  83

Other Wines of Note:

DOMDECHANT WERNER HOCHEIMER KIRCHENSTUECK RIESLING AUSLESE 2003 (931386, $27.95) is tremendous value for a German sweety of pedigree and age. Eric H. Litchfield of German Wine Estates noted “the 2003 vintage was a superb one for Domdechant Werner.”

HALL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 (273391, $59.95) and the rest of the entourage (Kathryn and the SV’s) have garnered big time praise. This price is good considering the numbers, RP (95), WS (91), CT’s (91) but the US average is $47.

CAYMUS SPECIAL SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 (155734, 3000mL, $541.95) is actually a phenomenal deal. The 750 ml format sells for an average $140 US. WS (94), RP (94), ST (93).
  

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio 

 

 

Good to go!

Portfolio Tasting with Norman Hardie, Barque Smokehouse, January 23, 2012

Norman Hardie flaunts an unbiased instinct for what is genuinely evolving as Ontario wine, be it good or bad.  He is both chemist and magician, pundit and critic. For better or for worse he is Matt Kramer’s (WS) boy now, a nuptial trafficker of both Niagara and Prince Edward County fruit, authoring with bravado, crafting with passion. Wild West meets intellectual East, winemaker as Steinbeck or London, possessed with an honest will to hunt down the object of his life. 

Hardie and his king assistant Richard sat down with JB and I at Barque on an afternoon amid this winter of our discontent.  A six strong John Barleycorn tasting, in temperament but not volume.  Limestone soils are forever in his discourse, he a Hagrid of experiential vinification.  His wines are made of a man, “yes I am and I can’t help but love you so.”

RIESLING 2010 ($21) is cracker jack lemon/lime p.e.c. punch, the sprite as foil to niagara’s sharp, propellant fruit. diesel charged to run a unimog.  89

CHARDONNAY PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY 2010 (149054, $35.20) bends chablis, in specie côte de léchet, calling to mind defaix. minerals as fulvous fluid liquid. this is hardie’s immigrant song “from the midnight sun where the hot springs blow.”  88

CHARDONNAY UUNFILTERED NIAGARA PENINSULA 2009 ($35) may mince meursault and mâcon but the proof is in the must. sumptuous loam, an onguiaahra sweat lodge made of birch and poplar. most wines give you only of themselves – this one gives you the wide world.  91

PINOT NOIR PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY 2010 ($35) should appeal to my childhood neighbour, he who created the “not ready for prime time player.” speaks proudly at 11.9% abv from vines “not quite there” admits norm, but like our sugaring maples these creepers will one day help to define our land. uncluttered, modish, honest.   87

PINOT NOIR UNFILTERED NIAGARA PENINSULA 2009 ($39) at 0.5% higher alcohol tepidly ramps up the texture quotient, runs deeper routes yet remains the antithesis of california pinot relish. countenance of subtlety, soft peddling and sober.   89

CABERNET FRANC PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY 2010 (237123, $25) from the foster vineyard in p.e.c. displays flavours so pointed they fell me.  oak loyalty to a stern grape, ode to cherry, currant and cinnabar chinon. smokier fruit here, deeper than your average bourgueil and smarter than your average bear.   90

Good to go!