The 2023 edition of Sicilia en Primeur was held in the second week of May, culminating with tastings, masterclasses and dinners in the extraordinary seaside hilltop village of Taormina. The annual event is made possible by Sicilia DOC, Assovini Sicilia and AB Comunicazione. I spent the better part of five days visiting producers aboard L’Etna, followed by tasting through many more of the mountain’s wines by way of the Assovini and AIS Sommelier assisted table-side service. During the Anteprima one of those absolute masterpieces of a masterclass was held during which 11 of Sicilia’s greatest wines were poured. In addition to those reflections here are my notes on 33 more wines tasted with Feudo Montoni, Azienda Agricola Cos, Serra Ferdinandea, Principe Di Butera and Planeta.

Related – Sicilia en Primeur 2023 Part One: L’Etna

“Questione di Stile – Icone del vino Siciliano,” with Fabio Rizzari and Giampaolo Gravina

Planeta Chardonnay 2018, Sicilia DOC

Planeta loves a challenge and 2018 presents such a problem but great wines are born in the face and of and by facing of adversity. Wines that age, including a bread and butter chardonnay and so this 2018 is a poignant choice for a Masterclass on Sicilian icons. Questioning why a wine made in this quantity would be like wondering why Château Pontet-Canet or Ornellaia should be chosen for Bordeaux or Tuscan seminars. They are the place and Planeta’s track record speaks for itself. There must be freshness and wood effected structure. There has to be salinity and sapidity, spice and a blessedly elastic lees contract between fruit and texture. Generosity just has to be balanced by tension. Eccoci. Planeta with chardonnay, for the longest time now a truly Sicilian thing. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Pietramarina 2016

Persistently taut and stoic Etna Bianco with the six-plus years forward emergence of flint and light paraffin smoulder. Just now into these secondary notes though still very much a wine in detention of original freshness. Compact, especially with respect to acidity and if overall just a bit lean there is no doubt that Pietramarina as a contrada is well represented and spoken about in a language correct, precise and understood. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2013

Yet another Etna from 2013 well into its tenure but showing with more than a moment of original freshness. Barone di Villagrande’s surely shows more maturity than some others and the substantially rich fruit is impressive considering the cool vintage of no real exceptional climatic disturbance. No doubt this drinks like a well aged carricante-based Bianco and there is really nowhere for this wine to go. That said the beauty is in this glass, golden, buttery, ready and finishing at a sapid point with the notion of lemon crème brûlée.  Tasted May 2023

I Palari Faro DOC 2014

High-toned, dusty, balsamic now very much in stride. A Sicilian red in the ways of tradition but also akin to so many Italian wines of ancient stylistic ilk. Fruit is no longer the point or the heart of Faro’s 2014 matter but the vintage told us as much from the beginning. Maturing with haste and because we are privy to tradition there is beauty in what is learned.  Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico 2010

More than fully mature obviously, but what has disappeared is less important than what has beed gained. A truly fascinating tisane caused by the natural reactivity and elemental transformation between nero d’Avola and frappato. Dried orange and carob, pomegranate and rooiibos, then a palate swagger that truly grabs attention. Though calm, evolved and earthy aromatically speaking there is so much more dynamic activity in the flavours. Terrific showing for a wine of this age. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Firriato Nero d’Avola Ribeca 2008, DOC Sicilia

If any expectations would imagine this Ribeca to be past prime and falling off a cliff well they would not be correct. Dusty and acetic? Yes. Aromatics truly a reflection of wood aging? Absolutely. More than this however because like other structured reds from famous wine regions made at a time when barrels were everything (think Rioja and Bordeaux), the stylistic works the same type of thread. Graphite, dried red currants, tar, chocolate mint and balsamic. All these notes play an old world symphony so soothing to people who yearn for such antiquity. So yes, iconic. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted May 2023

Tasca d’Almerita Rosso Del Conte DOC Sclafani Bagni 1999

Fornelli (the oven) is the name of the cru, of clay soils on the only western facing slope. Fabio Sireci’s is one that raises the bar for a grape so used to be blended, but this variety grows in the middle of nowhere, of its own biotype, unlike the well-known inzolia. The white grapes grow on the higher reaches of Montodi’s slope and they soak up the radiance, expand and flesh out, achieving a compactness of fresh fruit with fine acidity. Warm vintage, registered as some of the highest temperatures in Europe, ever. But healthy vines and this biotype survived and made great wine. It’s the place and it’s in the hands of Sireci. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Catarratto (and inzolia) are the children of a grape that came from Calabria and by now the biotype is Montoni. Cool and gelid Catarratto, silky for the grape and in fact this is a very vinous example. Also affected by the warm season, more sun and richness than before but always in balance. As here. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Grillo Sicilia DOC Timpa 2022

We must remember that grillo was created in Provara as a cross between catarratto and moscato zibbibo in the 1860s just 20 kilometres from Montoni. And yet in grillo there is the citrus, so much more so than either inzolia or catarratto and the grape is shall we say, “less Montoni” than the others. That said it’s a greener hue and aromatic type where as the rest of the island is more so “yellow.” Still as grillo there is more substance, cool freshness and layered acidity. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Rosé Di Adele 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not that nerello mascalese is rare but here we are with Rosato and a richer Montoni because ripeness happened well and also early in the vintage. Still so beautifully pale and salty, taut as per usual and yet gifting more fruit than stone. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Lagnusa Nero d’Avola 2021, Sicilia DOC

No worries about a warm vintage because Fabio Sireci’s Nero d’Avola vines grow in one of the healthiest of environments on ideal soils. Freshness is the finest and so real, with succulent acids and such a groove for a wine of substance, history (both genetic and familial) and experience. Drink 2023-2028.   Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Vrucara 2019

The museum vineyard with the oldest of genetic Nero d’Avola material and a really special vintage for this arch historic Montoni wine. The richest set of succulent circumstances, all the way through and though fruit is as substantial and full as it has ever been, while the other parts are just about as impressive. The depth is important, as is the way this nero breathes in and out. Drink 2025-2034.   Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Terre Di Elio 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Named after Fabio Sireci’s father and now his eldest son, a nerello mascalese that Elio loved, not a competition with Etna but the preservation of a grape with the history of a place. Sees no wood, only aging only in concrete, maintaining freshness and this special piece of Montoni. The vines are just about the same age as Vrucara’s nero, and here as the child of Calabrese sangiovese there is red cherry, fresh leather and savoury verdancy that is truly distinctive. Floral and naturally sweet, neither stony nor meaty but like great caponata, with a saltiness like small caper and light black olive. Such a beautifully subtle wine. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Feudo Montoni Perricone Core 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Related to garnacha…or not so much but at Montoni it is picked last, in late October or early November. A grape that must be “pinched,” between the branches and the bunches, to stop the flow of water, an almost light-lite example of appassimento done the vine, for concentration and varietal appeasement. Quite viscous, a bit musky, chalky and of a structural style that is nothing like nero d’avola. Certainly more like grenache than cannonau and you have to tame the fruiting, like a wild horse because it wants to run free. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos

Azienda Agricola Cos Metodo Classico 2009

The experimental phase ran from 2009 and 2016, tasting along the way and then in 2019 the decision was made to create a sparkling wine program whereby aging on lees would be 18, up to a maximum 24 months. This however is one hundred percent frappato, of no tirage, disgorged in 2022 so essentially on the lees for 12 years. This is the first vintage and not an easy wine to make considering the temperatures are still quite high at harvest time. Traditional method and at the time no skin contact, meaning it passed through a pneumatic press. The bubble comes through on the palate after a really quiet beginning and to say this is settled without being overtly mature would be a real understatement. Current release. Like the Dalai Lama, “the flowing robes, the grace, bald… striking.” Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Clasisco DOCG 2020

Always 60-40 nero d’avola and frappato, fermented in concrete and aged for a year in really old barrels. A truly balanced vintage with no heat spikes or too much rain. Classic Cos volatility, exactly as expected, reigned in by sweet acidity and an unadulterated truth. A bit too much it must be said, perfect for those who relish in these sorts of desires and challenging for those who do not.  Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Rosso DOC 2019

From a vintage of declassified Vittoria fruit because it was just too hot, an excessive heat, lowering alcohol and raising acidity. Seems counterintuitive but truth is this does ride with high activity, major lift and tonality. More frappato than nero d’Avola works well, to be honest. Extreme savour, fruity enough but really verdant and wild. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2018

A fresh and cold harvest with some rain at pick time and a challenging time overall. A really lovely, chalky-waxy 60-40 nero d’Avola-frappato mix that keeps lift and volatility in check. Distinct Cerasuola and yet closer to the norm, whatever you want to decide that may be. As elegant and suave as a Cos Cerasuolo can be. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2016

Dry vintage, not particularly hot but this would not necessarily be discussed in cool ways. Holding well, closer to 2020 in style and temperament than 2018, likely to live longer but the volatility is in charge. The palate is where the Brettanomyces is noticed – but it too is manageable. Drink 2023-2024.   Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2013

A warm vintage and for much of Sicily a truly surprising one. A vintage of great longevity seemingly everywhere and across all spectrums of varieties and styles. Here as Cerasuolo with nero d’Avola and frappato the relationship between the two is near equal and they are in symbiosis this time around. Cleaner than the vintages to come, showing with restrained force, elegance and energy. Drink 2023-2026.   Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2010

More than fully mature obviously, but what has disappeared is less important than what has beed gained. A truly fascinating tisane caused by the natural reactivity and elemental transformation between nero d’Avola and frappato. Dried orange and carob, pomegranate and rooiibos, then a palate swagger that truly grabs attention. Though calm, evolved and earthy aromatically speaking there is so much more dynamic activity in the flavours. Terrific showing for a wine of this age. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOC 2000

Showing every minute of its age in a wise, delicate and sottosuolo way. The earth is wet and humid, peaty and as a textural wine the fruit is silk threaded through the acidity, which is in fact remarkable. Yes it’s quite oxidative but the energy and dried fruit qualities are more than intriguing, but also inviting.   Tasted May 2023

Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOC 1999

Clearly another warm vintage, more or less the same or less than 2000 but there is more freshness from a season “worked more in an normal way.” Liquorice, rhubarb, wild strawberry, soy, carob and all dried, desiccated, implosive, acids still sharp enough and oddly some lingering tannin. Fascinating really.  Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2022, Sicilia DOC

From the two red grapes grown on the property, syrah and nero d’Avola, 70 and 30 percent and while it is obvious that the family’s connection would be to the south of France, this Rosé seeks more than that. Now in the third vintage and things have certainly changed with a wine of more phenolics and also structure. À point, timely and what strikes as a Rosato that speaks to you but does by needing to make a statement. No aggression or tension but yes subtlety in the context of restrained power. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Bianco Sicilia 2022, DOC Sicilia

Mix of 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc, for now the only two white grapes and making up a third of the 17 hectares total. The most recent planting was 2021, the first back in 2015. All about freshness and salinity with just a bit of wood thanks to 25 percent, none of it new. The wood is present by only in subtle and oscillating tones on the mouth. Some phenolic presence yet again, not overdone or even remotely aggressive. A bit buttery at the finish, graced by piquancy and the sort of scorrevole that drifts slowly away. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia 2022, DOC Sicilia

Equal parts syrah and nero d’Avola, straightforward, clean and with the idea being to make the purest iteration that exults two very important grapes. Increasing the concrete involvement though this is all done in wood with subsequent vintages to go in that cemented direction. Already croccante so imagine the freshness and crunch going forward. Purple violets, light chalkiness and what feels like sandy soil-effected freshness. Piquant and toothsome. Delicious. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Principe Di Butera

Principe Di Butera Nero d’Avola Metodo Classico Rosato Extra Brut

Not labeled as such and this is the first vintage release but the vintage is in fact 2019. Twenty four months on the lees and this being the beginning to introduce the wine but subsequent vintages that will likely age longer. Extra Brut so right around 6-7 g/L with explosive acidity so the balance is spot on. Orange and lemon, no pith and less bitters to speak of. Really clean and good length. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Principe Di Butera Nero d’Avola Metodo Classico Rosato Pas Dosé

From the 2018 vintage and so 36 months on the less without any added dosage at the time of secondary bottling. Pure nero again and no skin contact so essentially a blanc de noirs. Surely different than the first iteration that was tasted four years previous. This really shows how successful it can be to make a dry sparkling wine and still have fruit, acid and body all share the same harmonious space. Really fine and successful. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Feudo Principi Di Butera Insolia Sicila DOC Séro 2017

“I love you,” in old Greek. Varietal inzolio picked in the second week of September under a full canopy that protects the fruit from too much sun and potential oxidation. Half and half steel and wood, quite fresh and spirited considering the vintage (hot and dry) and the age (five-plus years). Made in a reductive style and then aged on the fine lees so two methods have protected the wine from oxidation. Even the hue is clear platinum. Lovely showing for a wine that should be past prime when it is in fact fresh and frankly delicious.  Last tasted May 2023

Seró is 100 per cent insolia, a selection of finest limestone parcels subjected to a very cold and extended maceration. Table sorting selection eliminates the smallest and least effective berries and then, a soft crush. Certainly an increase in texture and ripeness with both phenolic and sugar/alcohol but still comes across as the leaner, less tangy and oxidative style typical of winemaker Antonio Paolo Froio’s directive. Also an increase in tropical fruit aromatics. The aim is for a certain amount of longevity and this should extend three to four years though more than five would be a stretch. It’s a trial and the curiosity factor is one full of intrigue. Drink 2018-2020.  Tasted May 2018

Principe Di Butera Insolia Sicilia DOC Carizza 2022

Caress, Carizza, a delicate touch and this is the concept. Freshness incarnate, cool and gelid. Like lemon and elderflower granita. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted May 2023

Feudo Principi Di Butera Nero D’avola Sicilia DOC Deliella 2016

The top drop for nero d’avila and the reason for growing, studying and developing Sicily’s most important grape. Grippy and from a most ideal vintage, especially for the grape and this label. Freshness and now wood subsiding to reveal so much more than just that fruit. So sultry and smouldering, a wisp of smokiness, violets all over and a piquancy that carries the fruit for a minute or more. Easily five if not up top 10 years left at a high level of crunchy freshness. Drink 2023-2031.  Tasted May 2023

Principe Di Butera Coriduci Passito, Terre Siciliane IGT

In Sicilian dialect the translation is sweetheart which is surely apropos for a sweet Passito made only with moscato giallo. Marmalata and succulence in a wine of great surprise, lemon curd with only just mild zesting and yet very much exotic, with kumquat and passion fruit. Definitely a cheese wine. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta

Planeta Metodo Classico Carricante 2019, Sicilia DOC

Vintage dated, disgorged in February of this year, 28 months aging on the lees. Holds the the citrus cards of no other Sicilian fizz, implosive, inwardly intense and striking a match on flint. Marches on the palate with obvious trenchant purpose and refuses to give up the protest. Nor should it allow the mouth to relax because there’s a revolution and a party going on. Ten years in the making since the carricante of Sciaranuova first burst onto this scene. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta La Segreta Il Bianco 2022, Sicilia DOC

Intense June and July with dry heat but August settled down and the weather cooperated through harvest. That lovely fresh lemon that squeezes juiced energy through the entirety of tasting this Bianco. Not complex but fucking delicious. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Bianco Alastro 2022, Menfi DOC

A mix of 85 percent grecanico and (15) sauvignon blanc. Changes gears from La Segreta and allows complex notions to fly in, unhindered and undeterred. Lemon and pistachio gelato, savoury and dry. This is also flicking delicious. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Grillo Terebinto 2022, Sicilia Menfi DOC

It may be grillo but Terebinto is more stoic and serious than Alastro and so do not sleep on Planeta’s work with this workhouse grape. No one else coaxes this much compaction and compression of energy out of flowery grillo. The tension is palpable. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Fiano Cometa 2021, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Cometa takes every iota of sunshine from 2021 and converts to energy in ways that really have not been noted before. A specialized Bianco sealed at the edges by a progressive winery’s efforts to ensure its latest vintages are in fact their best. Three years in wood, two sizes of Botti Grandi. Part richesse and part searing intensity that meet right at the middle where piquancy and harmony are known to exist. Cometa 2021 does exactly this. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Chardonnay 2021, Sicilia DOC

In Sicily there are some wines that do the yeoman work and carry the weight of a producer’s world but none do so at the quality and also quantity levels like that of the Planeta chardonnay. The 2021 is obviously one of the more substantial and impressive examples of this arch classic Planeta wine that really is the centre of its Menfi universe. For all five Planeta estates in fact and know that you can count on this varietal wine whenever times might feel hard. Age ability is a five-letter word – spelled C-H-A-R-D. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign