Modica
From May 6th through 10th, 2025, the 21st Sicilia en Primeur signalled the annual return of Assovini Sicilia’s proper, correct and yes, also decorous event. Journalists from all over the world arrived by invitation only for a week during which de rigueur was encouraged and for best results, most definitely required. A strict precision needed in adhering to the dictates of weather, cultural fashion, tasting and taking in the final night gala at a luxurious palazzo. The 21st edition’s title “The Culture of Wine in Sicily: A Thousand-year Story that Looks to the Future,” was defined by Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia as “the culture of wine today also translates into a culture of travel.” This is why the abiding delegation of 100 journalists were focused on this essential part of this journey, with their charge to bring the message back home. They came from Italy and many parts of Europe (France, Poland, Sweden, Germany, Norway), also from non-EU countries (Canada, USA, Japan, China, South Korea, Israel, Brazil, and the United Kingdom). Together they engaged in a collective etiquette to celebrate Sicilian wine, food and culture, inclusive of gorging on piping hot finger foods between en primuer tastings at lunch under a hot Modica sun because in Sicily, eating Arancini with your hands is de rigueur.
Neapolis Archaeological Park
As always the Sicilian Ante-Antreprima sees groups of international journalists making pilgrimages to wineries geographically positioned within a particular quadrant on the largest Mediterranean island. In 2025 Godello joined Zedcomm’s Lucia Boarini and JustSicily’s Marcos del Rio, along with journalists Fernanda Roggero (Sole 24 Ore), Christer Byklum (Mywinesandmore), Giuseppe Lauria (Weinwisser), David Ransom (The Connected Table) and Matthias Stelzig (Weinwelt) for an Enotour around the area of Noto. The group took in the ancient urban ruins of the Neapolis Archaeological Park, the seaside village of Marzamemi, Noto city (Including a caffè and dolce at Corrado Assenza’s Caffè Sicilia) and a stay at the beautifully charming and calming Villa Giulia Hotel. Visits were paid at Zisola, La Giasira, Ramaddini, Feudo Maccari and Planeta. When all was said, tasted, travelled, assessed, satiated and done, the group then joined the rest of the journalists fresh off of their own tours for the two-day Sicilia en Primeur at the Castello dei Conti di Modica.
Godello in Noto
Assovini Sicilia was founded in 1998 by Giacomo Rallo, Diego Planeta and Lucio Tasca and today has 101 member companies producing approximately 900 labels. After a day of technical tasting everyone convened at the Teatro Garibaldi in Modica for more de rigueur talks, including a discussion about “the culture of wine understood as informed and conscious drinking,” led by Dr. Sara Farnetti, Ph.D in Pathophysiology of Metabolism and Nutrition. Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi spoke on the “S factor: The uniqueness of the Sicilian wine continent.” Words from Dario Stefàno, President of the Wine and Oil Tourism Centre (Lumsa University) and Antonello Maruotti, Professor of Statistics (Lumsa University) concerned “The south innovating through events, e-commerce and new hospitality models for wine tourism.” Then finally it was Alessio Planeta, President of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation, speaking about “the sustainable future of Sicilian wine.”
With Corrado Assenza – Caffè Sicilia, Noto
The event concluded on the 10th of May, again at the Castello dei Conti, with tastings of wines from the 57 Assovini Sicilia producers. As always Godello wishes to thank the professional and gracious organization of Zedcomm’s Cecilia Zanasi, Delia Demma, Martina Romeo, Lucia Boarini and Michele Marmino; JustSicily’s Giusi Macchiarella, Giuliana Palazzolo, Giuliana Licata di Baucina, Silvia Mantegna, Marcos del Rio and Federica Matranga; Assovini Sicilia’s Liliana Rosano. These are Godello’s 188 tasting notes from Noto visits at Zisola, La Giasira, Ramaddini, Feudo Maccari and Planeta, along with the wines tasted at Castello dei Conti.
Filippo Mazzei at Zisola
Zisola
Filippo Mazzei and family have spent 20 years managing the biodiversity of Zisola, where lemon, pink grapefruit, clementine and almond trees line the vineyard. These are white soils though in Sicily they do not reflect the sun and raise temperatures, as they do in Tuscany. “This kind of soil can keep humidity for a long time,” explains Mazzei. “Even in July and August we don’t have A/C at Zisola.” The first plantings were 20 hectares of nero d’Avola plus one each of syrah and petit verdot. Later on grillo and catarratto, all within six to seven kms of the sea and three to Noto. There are now 25 total hectares of vines and the fermentation cellar was built in 2004.
Zisola’s Parmigiana di Pesce Spada
A visit to Zisola will surely include a walk through one of Sicily’s great vineyard blocks followed by a tasting of highest calibre wines. A word of encouragement will say that three dishes might also show up on the table. Parmigiana di Pesce Spada, Penne con Finnochietto and Gelo di Limone. Should you be so lucky, karma would not be a b@%&h. Karma would be calm, neutral, reasonable and generous.
Zisola Azisa Grillo Sicilia DOC 2024
Zisola is not a place where there is a tradition for white wine and there is just one hectare of grillo planted. The name is an extension from Azisa which can translate as “beautiful.” A small percentage is fermented on skins for 36 hours, “to increase body” says Filippo Mazzei. Balances well with the freshness and waxy-aerosol style for a white that screams citrus with a combination of lemon and especially clementine. Surely owing to the plethora of fruit trees growing about the vines. A rarity for Zisola, not only Sicilia and truly a saisfying wine. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
The most unique of the Zisola wines is this white catarratto made like a red, fermented on skins for three months in “cocciopesto” (as opposed to calling it what we know as amphora), a medium specific to the area. The third vintage for a sku started with the purchase of the vessels in 2021 and each are completely different, a matter of happenstance and not conscious changes or alterations. The 2023 is bloody delicious, suggestively salty, in delivery of an agreed upon “guarantee” of verticality, crazy complexity and something peculiar. Hard to describe and yet also a factor of Alberello (bush) vine training. The grillo is so very clementine but catarratto is more lemon, pink grapefruit and a finishing kiss of almond. Aging should bring about real curious transformations. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
A glimpse into how catarratto can begin to age and truthfully (yet also technically) nothing has yet happened. A citrus explosion, lemon first and last with great freshness and intensity. Clean and though it may be a new breed of Noto white wine it already shows an ensconced maturity with a precocious character belying its years. Last tasted May 2025
The second vintage of a 100 percent catarratto from plants that went in back in 2015 on white calcareous soils. Only bush vines and at first made into a blend with grillo. The change was made to do some skin contact and aging in amphora. Really that simple and that is the advantage, no overdoing or distraction in trying to impress. But this does just that, with vibrancy and succulence. Really taut, lemon tight, nearly but not quite piercing. Will change after three years and get honeyed. Reminds of really young Hunter valley sémillon. Top echelon decisions and so bravo Filippo Mazzei and team. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024
Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2022
The flagship, calling and business card from 80 percent of Zisiola’s 25 planted hectares, a nero d’avola made in the freshest of Sicilian styles. Clocks in at 12.5 percent, picked early (September 8th) for brightness and well-captured high(ish) acidity. You can feel a bit of wood (from one-third new) and there is no doubt that 20 years into this Mazzei tenure what now matters has been figured out to make nero in the way it should be made. Climbs to the current peak and while better wines are sure to come, this 2022 hits the proverbial and varietal nail on the head. Last tasted May 2025
Zisola is a project for Filippo Mazzei that began with a 700 km drive around Sicily accompanied by Diego and Alessio Planeta. Noto was chosen because of the biodiversity of the flora, to Filippo not unlike Tuscany. He also fell in love with the old Baroque town and could see a comparison between nero d’avola and sangiovese. “The decision was made based on a feeling.” The 2022 is so much fresher than the nero of 15 years ago, not to mention the balance accrued by way of alberello trained vines. Open up the dictionary and here it is. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024
Mazzei Zisola Sicilia DOC Noto Rosso 2016
Seven years later and keep in mind that Zisola is the nero d’Avola made in the largest quantity and not the Rosso destined for extended aging. But in can and 2016 is a perfect example of potential. The lustre and energy are waning though there is little secondary character, just now softening with amiable pleasantries on offer. Last tasted May 2025
Tasted with Filippo Mazzei in Palermo, Noto Rosso is nero d’avola from the Cantina in Sicily owned and operated by the Castellina in Chianti estate that produces Fonterutoli. A stainless ferment is followed by 50 per cent aging in stainless and 50 in 2nd and 3rd passage oak barrels, It’s a perfectly rich and plummy nero with great red liquorice tang and a distinction to celebrate pure, honest commerce. Very nero, very Noto. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted May 2018
Zisola’s Penne con Finnochietto
Zisola Effe Emme Petit Verdot Sicilia DOC 2021
Effe Emme is varietal petit verdot from just one hectare planted, the album rock radio red of Zisola and monogram for Filippo Mazzei. He might prefer to see this PV stitched as if by tailored cloth but the spicy aromas, exotic bouquet and volatility suggested frankly indicate something more progressively oriented. The wood is generously, suggestively and importunely employed to exaggerate notes for extended play. Requires some further aging to settle the barrel and finish the score. Last tasted May 2025
Varietal petit verdot planted in 2004, only 1.5 hectares, just about at the very beginning of Zisola. Incredibly chalky to say that it really speaks for the calcaire but time has come to effect changed so that the vines have come into balance. As petit verdot Effe Emme is not as dark and concentrated as it once was. Really showing its colours, what it is, a child of limestone soils. “Effe Emme,” F.M., long-play radio, well-spoken, one who tells things as they are, Filippo Mazzei. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024
Zisola Effe Emme Petit Verdot Sicilia DOC 2014
Second look ten-plus years forward for petit verdot that would have come off of not yet 10 year-old vines at Zisola. Showing most of its age, a smoky varietal red with truffle and a held reserve of concentration and persistent local Balsamico. Violet aromas as well, they are the beauty of perfume while the wine drifts into liquid chalkiness. On the decline but interest still holds and will do so for another 12-18 months. Last tasted May 2025
A 100 per cent petit verdot, 4,000 bottles made, big structure and at 15 per cent a massive wine. Needed to be held back an extra year and still needs two more years in bottle to soften, release and re-integrate. Big boned, spicy, wood massive and intense. Hematic with welling black fruit. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted May 2018
Zisola Doppiozeta Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2021
Doppiozeta is at least twice as concentrated and focused as compared to the nero d’Avola “classico,” Cru in origin on the more calcareous soils of the estate, picked just two days after the bulk of the nero and yet acidity is not insignificantly higher. Owing to the limestone but also 50m higher in elevation which surely brings just that extra amount of wind. The style of Doppiozeta is ever evolving and this 2021 marks a height of freshness and drinkability, but with a seriousness and focus to share space with top quality nerello mascalese, sangiovese and nebbiolo. Would give the ’21 another year to realize its true potential. Last tasted May 2025
Yes another fine Doppiozeta nero d’avola from the Mazzei family and their Sicilian estate. Crispy exterior, chewy interior, spice and herbs as accents, salt and pepper seasoning, chalky tannic, reasoned and knowably fine. Consistently well raised, made and delivered, signed and sealed as a really good wine. The freshness is always there and the acidity so ideally suited to grape and style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024
Zisola Doppiozeta Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2017
Many hot vintages have powered through Italy as of late, including 2017 and yet Sicily was not that way, not in Noto, not anywhere. And so there is a fine and persistent freshness to Doppiozeta for ’17. A seductive sweetness from a time when the nero d’Avola was made in a more extracted, concentrated and barrel-aged way. Nevertheless in 2025 the wine is showing with distinction. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP
Just one hectare of syrah as part of the original plantings at Zisola for one of three ultra distinct varietal reds. The most hematic meets sanguine is in a way the closest cousin to all that famous Mazzei sangiovese made way up yonder in Tuscany. In other words the syrah here seems to take on a mineral-elemental feel as notable as any red wine in Sicily. Deeply serious, concentrated and in 2021 also structured, namely because of the season. Also uniquely southeastern Sicilian and yes a few years having passed in bottle has resulted in some movement, though barrel and secondary notes are both just barely detectable. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira
La Giasira is Piedmontese Giovanni Boroli and his wife Veneta Isabella dating back to to 2004. The estate is 130 hectares with 13.5 under vines, of grillo, moscato, catarratto, nero d’Avola and nerello mascalese. They produce 60,000-70,000 bottles annually from vines grwoing in 10-30 cm of soil atop pure limestone bedrock. Tilling happens maybe once a year on this site at 250m above the Telaro Valley (within the Noto Valley), 20 km to both Noto and Modica, equidistant between the Ionian Sea and Sicilian Channel.
La Giasira Bianco 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
A blend of chardonnay, moscato bianco and catarratto, picked earlier than just about ever, begun in the last week of July. From serious calcareous soils for just 5,000 bottles of Noto area clarity fermented and aged in just Inox tank. Aromatic, all in citrus and freshness captured despite or maybe thanks to the early pick. Bit of almond both floral and raw, the scents of roses and blossoms from clean start to salty finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Grillo Sicilia DOC 2023
The grillo stands apart and alone in style when tasted side by each with the catarratto and bianco blend. Here the focus is all fruit, lemon and stone fruit, ripe and fleshy, juices running for a very full and refreshing expression. A capture of southeastern Sicilian sunshine, many heat days accumulating in this juicy grillo. Pour it cold and drink it long. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Keration 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
Varietal catarratto made with specifically catarratto lucido, just 8.000 bottles (of 60,000-ish total) from the thin soils above limestone bedrock at Giasara. Just stainless steel for six months and three in bottle ahead of release. Noticeably different to the Bianco blend, a decrease in floral citrus and jasmine, an increase in fruit (including the smell of spun sugar) and accompanying viscosity. Immediate level of gratification from a wine with luxe mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Keration 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
Tasted side by side with the 2023 and the consistency is more than obvious, namely by mouthfeel and viscous feel. A citrus yet reminding of bergamot in curd or granita form. Really persistent white, lingering for a minute with a moment of almond at the finish. More sapid than salty, even more so than the still truly fresh 2023. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Rosato 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
Made with 100 percent nerello mascalese from the early pick of vines planted back in 2006. If it smells and tastes like mascalese than it must be mascalese, of roses and tart red berries, here salted and finishing at rhubarb. Rosé that quenches by doing what it should for a simple and specific purpose. Ends on a sapid botanical note. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Unbelievable Risotto con Pesce at La Giasira
La Giasira Morhum 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
Morhum is 100 percent nerello msacalese off of hybrid Cordone Speronato/Guyot trellised vines planted in 2006, aged nine months in (25 hL) botte grande. Several intensities noted, first floral and then an implosive tart palate style with more than impressive controlling acidity. Surely picked early extending forth to fineness and a finesse wound up in the tension. Tannins are fine and also wound tight for a light yet currently aggressive nerello mascalese. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021
One of ten small production skus, here at 6,000 bottles of nero d’Avola raised on Cordone Speronato trellising and the serious calcareous geology at Giasira. Spends 12 months in botte grande, followed by six months in bottle ahead of release. Current vintage and so six months is more like 30 to mature a tannic nero d’avola ready and drinking in balance, just as its 13.5 percent alcohol frame would want. Forget the big, wooded and thick nero you may know and see the nebbiolo meets pinot noir forest for the Noto nero trees. The conceptual origin is kind of obvious, that being Piemonte so that here you might almost believe this to be a cool climate red. For Giasira the pick is later than most of the rest of the farm, in the last 10 days of September. There is some verdancy but it works and in all the right ways, finishing with good and proper tension. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC 2018
More than a notable amount of persistent freshness yet now a whole lot of exotic spice going on. Getting cardamom and cinnamon (but no clove) from a nero d’avola now at the epitome of “morbido,” in this case smooth as opposed to soft. The nose shows development if not age in terms of oxidation or secondary character. More maturity on the palate with dried bokser pod and carob. In other words classic for nero d’Avola from a warm climate made just six years ago with more wood and concentration, though nothing like some other very wooded peer examples. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira SIC! Spumante Metodo Classico Brut Rosato, Terre Siciliane IGT
Just nerello mascalese aged 24 months and finished below Brut with what feels like just a few grams of residual sugar. Quenching and not so serious while in delivery of great satisfaction. The clarity is palpable for such a clean sparkling wine. Taste this nerello bubble with a risotto blessed with fresh mussels and capers for a true gustatory experience. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
La Giasira Passito di Noto Sicilia DOC 2022
A passito from grillo not produced in every vintage, citrus zesty and aerosol though teasingly dry on the nose before unveiling its sweetness and tang on the palate. Lemon gelée with the bite of granita and truth be told the limestone of Giasira’s soils surely effect the dessert wine as much as the dry whites and reds. Nice botanical edgy finish too. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025
Sicilia en Primeur Enotour 11 – Noto
Ramaddini Perla Marina Vino Spumante Brut, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT
Charmat method sparkling wine made with the local moscato di noto, soup sugary, neutral and vague selvatica meets macchia aromas. Sweet but in a typical Brut way and number with more than vague bitters at the finish. Tasted May 2025
Ramaddini Grillo Nassa Sicilia DOC 2024
Nassa, a fishing reference for the catching of fish (owing to the nearby seaside), a 100 percent grillo grown in the Rammadini Contrada up in the hills four kilometres away from the cantina and five from the sea at Marzamemi. Lemon through and through, pith and seeds included for a bitter tonic of grillo, yellow and also green. High vigour and yields make for an insipid, vapid and diluted white wine. Tasted May 2025
Ramaddini QuattroVenti 2024, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT
A blend of chardonnay and catarratto aged in wood and the notes waft out immediately, like smoke from a chimney. The aromas are problematic, as a baked potato which indicates the challenge of diethyl acetate. The palate does not improve much and the vanilla overpowers the fruit. Tasted May 2025
Ramaddini Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Noto Nere 2022
A varietal nero d’Avola aged in 70 percent steel and (30) barriques as smoky and vanilla-toasty as the whites. Surely some residual sugar fills in the holes and mellows the greenness in the wine. Waxy, sappy and syrupy. Tasted May 2025
Team JustSicily
Ramaddini Syrah Sicilia DOC Noto Nere 2022
Purely syrah as smoky and toasted as the nero d’Avola to a point where distinguishing one from the other is like trying to identify the difference between identical twins Richard and Geoff Saunders back in high school. I wonder if the syrah can write nero d’avola’s Math exam and nero can go sub in for a date with syrah’s girlfriend? But seriously there is nothing to distinguish this as Sicilian syrah, nor is their any charm, or joy to be found. Tasted May 2025
Ramaddini Patrono Nero d’Avola Riserva Sicilia DOC 2021
Longer wood aging and the signature varietal nero d’avola that takes Rammadini’s work to the next level. Not necessarily a wine that speaks to more attentive farming but instead to more attention in the cellar. The philosophy concentrates on how the wines are made and aged with the most focus on Patrono and it shows. The notes of vanilla, lavender, red berry and white chocolate shake exert themselves with impunity. You can age this for a few years and see it mellow into a soft, creamy, thickened and emulsified red. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted May 2025
Ramaddini Al Hamen Passito di Noto Sicilia DOC
Strange mix of marmalade and diesel in a moscato passito as botanical as it is gaseous. If apricot was a metal and orange slices were urinal pucks. Flawed.Can’t fathom what happened here. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari
Feudo Maccari
The Sicilian exploration of Tuscany’s Moretti family of Tenuta Sette Ponti. As with several other Noto area estates, Maccari was set up 25 years ago on 200 hectares with 65 planted to vines, most trained to Alberello (medio). Much like the others the location is heavily influenced by limestone soils set halfway between the Ionian and Mediterranean seas. There are predominantly nero d’Avola and grillo, but also seven hectares of syrah. The company also farms 11 hectares on L’Etna (called Etnae), namely in the Contrada Santo Spirito.
Feudo Maccari Anima Lucente Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2024
Anima Lucente is the only Maccari Etna Bianco, made with 85 percent carricante and (15) minella grown in a 700m, 60-plus year-old “garden vineyard,” on Passopisciaro bush vines. Natural ferment, half in steel and half in ”blanched” second passage French wood. Just bottled a few weeks ago and already the wood is easily integrated, subtly specialized without so much as a toasty, vanillin or buttery trace. Racy Etna Bianco from head to tail, judged, interpreted and translated as a garden blend should. Quite edenic for the ilk and of dreams realized. Not the most complex, nor does it need to be but it’s so hard not to be seduced through to the mineral-metal finish. 10,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Anima Vulcano Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022
Red counterpart to the white Anima Lucente, moving from luminescent to charcoal volcanic in Rosso that spends only a reasonable and amply fortifying eight months time in barrel. Perfectly professional, seasoned, stylized and straight up the middle road taken for the DOC and more importantly but also specifically the contrada of Santo Spirito. Speaks in the clearest double “S” vernacular, explains and delivers just what is expected and frankly wanted from a contrada-specified Etna Rosso. Acids are in synch with the rusty grit split between fresh and dried elements. Stamp of guarantee. 3,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Animardente Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022
Slightly higher elevation also from the Passopisciaro contrada of Santo Spirito, here at 750m and same vine age in and around 60 years. This time the qualifying suffix “ardente” refers to passion or a burning for something, that surely being the raising of impressive Rosso from out of the Etna lava stone flows. The reference also elicits the heat and colour of the magma fused with the current orange-hued basalt. A more serious Etna Rosso of depth and tannic intensity, doubly structured and needing time. The botanical feels mixed with structural elements more than grip the palate, hold on tight and show no immediate sign of letting go. Give this two more years. 3,000 bottles. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Animantica Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022
From the owners of Tuscany’s Tenuta Sette Ponti. Animantica, a compounded abbreviation of anima and mantica, i.e. “soul and divination.” A spiritual combination for the smallest of Etna Rosso productions from Contrada Santo Spirito. Exhibits the freshness and accessibility of Anima Vulcano juxtaposed against the tannic frame and freight of Animardente but the expression is subtle, restrained and without the ardent flaunt of necessity. The vines here are 100-plus years pre-phylloxera grown in the “garden vineyard,” inclusive of some (white) minella. Rosso as graceful as any on the Etna and therefore fully qualifying as mountain wine. The tannins are suave and fluid to see a “divinazione” of 10 years or more. Just 800 bottles. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Grillo Sicilia DOC Olli 2024
Olli, part of grillo read backwards and a local name for the grape. A reminder how it arrived as a cross between catarratto and zibibbo, developed by Baron Antonio Mendola of Favara. Clean, fresh, ripe and accessible to all, for all the correct reasons and any time at all. Yellow fruit and flowers, some sapidity and the easiest drinking white anywhere from Sicily. Vines averaging 20 years bring the knowhow and concentration. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Family and Friends 2023, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGP
The wine once made for, you guessed it, family and friends that first became a commercial label with the 2012 vintage. Vineyard is now more than 20 years old with grillo vines growing in sand and limestone. The label advocates “only the best grapes” and the amenability meets style of this varietal wine suggests that to be the honest truth. A lemon intensity in concentration and bursting fleshy segments are juicing through the entirety of the wine. Again a sapid (as opposed to salty) element, not quite botany or “macchia” but savoury nonetheless. Hides the 14.5 percent alcohol frame with ease. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Vigna Firraru Family and Friends 2023, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGP
The most important grillo comes from the black-soiled clay vineyard above the cantina, a.k.a. Fabbro, from Sicilian dialect the name Firraru describes the colour of that terroir. Alberello vines are 20 years of age (as with all the grillo plantings) and now having come into their zone. A ferric element emerges as per the soil to separate this grillo from the other Family and Friends varietal white. Even more sapid, metallic surely and length increases. The French wood, richness and generous alcohol all impress while doing their part in well rehearsed integration. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Rosé di Neré Sicilia DOC 2024
More than obviously stuck to Provençal style guns with a Rosato made with nero d’Avola softly hued, pale and simple. Just two hours of skin contact plus five months of aging in steel. A lees effect, however soft and in restraint though consistently designed and presented with the Feudo Maccari sapidity up front. Showing some true to from nero notes, of ripe berries and sweet herbal savour. Well made and reachable for all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Sicilia DOC Neré 2022
A mix of nero d’avola vines young and old, of 10 and over 30 for the signature varietal business card of a red wine. Dusty and notable Balsamico with a local nickname for the most important variety, not only for Noto but all of Sicily. Neré is more restrained and quaffable than ever before, with crusted, skin musky fruit and high acidity. A wine to chill and spill without thinking too much on anything at all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Sicilia DOC Saia 2022
Saia comes from Arabic, a word making reference to centuries old rainwater collecting irrigation canals and the first label produced by Feudo Maccari in 2002. These are the oldest estate bush vines, now more than 30 years of age with the eyes, canes and fruit of experience. More obvious depth and layers to nero d’Avola as Saia, a treasure trove and trough filled with fruit and accompaniments in complexity. A nero adorned but also soft with some pruning of the fruit while still amply structured. Not grippy or with tension per se but in control and able to age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Sultana 2022
A single vineyard nero d’avola from white limestone soils of 20-plus years that sees 10 months in tonneaux, coming out in the 15 percent alcohol range. Just one hectare like Guarnaschelli and aromatically speaking the most mineral-elemental and therefore salty nero d’avola for Feudo Maccari. Genuine depth and ideal push-pull posit tug between fresh and dried elements with a chalky understreak that speaks to the brown skeletal soil and its limestone content. A wine made in the vineyard, as they say, exaggerating and celebrating the local Balsamico and singular savoury improvisations. “Autentico.” Just 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Guarnaschelli 2022
A single vineyard nero from black volcanic soils of some 60 years that sees 10 months in tonneaux, coming out in the 15 percent alcohol range. Just one hectare like Sultana and the terroir directs the result. Greater intensity and grip but also a converse style due to the ulterior elements that come from basalt as opposed to limestone. There is a richness to the mix of dried and fresh fruit, Balsamico and macchia, a layering that continually delivers more and more. The clarity and finesse from Guarnaschelli do well to balance and smoothen both the new wood and elevated level of alcohol. Just 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Maccari Syrah Sicilia DOC Mahâris 2022
From seven hectares of syrah, the second label produced at Feudo Maccari, first vintage 2005. The name refers to Arab watch towers along the sea coast and it is the wine “that symbolizes the meeting of different styles and cultures.” In other words syrah brought to Sicily and how it has prospered, with FM being one of the pioneers in terms of scale and time having worked with the French variety. Then again the legend of Marcus Aurelius, Syracusa and the variety have by now become one to make this one of the island’s own. The 2022 is full and wooded, seasoned to the hilt and within good reason because this is what the grape wants from Noto. Fruit and structure are tied by sweet acidity as much as they are by tannic freight. Full wine and one to impress. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025
With Santi and Alessio Planeta in Noto
Planeta
Diego Planeta. Pioneer, visionary and a man who considered the entire island an agricultural playground where anything was possible. The Planeta family has Spanish origins and roots dating back five hundred years. Diego Planeta was the former president of the Settesoli Cooperative and founder of Planeta winery. His passing in 2020 left an irreplaceable hole but 15 cousins, including Alessio, Francesca and Santi Planeta are the beneficiaries of their uncle’s plans and legacy. Five family members run the day-to day operation and more than 200 vinicultural, viticultural, administrative and marketing artisans share in the collective vision. Today they work, farm sustainably and reap the benefits of five distinct estates but more than that they bring the fruits of these locations to the world. No other producer in Sicilia does this, not with the scope and breadth they do.
Noto is the birthplace of nero d’Avola, graced with calcareous soils like Jerez and Champagne, not really comparable to anywhere else. Noto is close to Vittoria in how the wines come to be but it’s a mobile texture, silken and with velvety tannins. The soft hills of Buonivini are blessed by soft breezes arising from the meeting of two seas, ideal for nero d’Avola and moscato, but also almonds, carobs and olives, symbolic plants of the Mediterranean location. The three vineyards are agliastro, buonvini and zuppardo on 45 hectares, acquired piece by piece, today producing the DOC wines Santa Cecilia, Moscato di Noto and Passito di Noto.
Country lunch at Planeta, Noto
Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2024
Always the (totally) dry moscato from Noto, white grape that has been a focus for Planeta not quite but almost since the beginning. From the Bounivini – Agliastro vineyards built of lime, soy marl and whitest of white chalk. A low production vintage because of drought and small berries though the aromatic variety translates as high and expressive as ever. Freshness and botanicals meet at the middle where citrus predominates. No questioning the quality and intensity for what must be viewed as a singular style and effect of white wine. Never searing and of a sapid notion that seems too bely the calcari, but that is exactly why this moscato works as a dry white wine. If you like top echelon dry palomino then this will induce interest along a similar line. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2020
A fine Sicilian vintage with ideal climatic conditions and looking back four years you get some evolution in the way you might think about what happens with dry sémillon or riesling. Now an arriving mix of honey and petrol to compliment the concentrating mandarin and lime blossom notes. In a way it feels like a sweetness is developing but that is a faux reality because there is literally no sugar in this moscato. Testing 2020 in 2025 seems just about right – another year and things will really go secondary. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
In the Noto cellar with Alessio Planeta
Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2014
More than 10 years have passed and forget secondary because tertiary has come to town. Fully developed maturity between the honey and petrol, sapidity strong and metal savoury, everything having coalesced into a finished and now finishing wine. This is where moscato will go, here with distinction because of how clean and competent it bagged character all those years ago. Drink 2025. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Nero d’Avola Noto DOC Controdanza 2021
The first vintage of this specialized dance in Noto was 2016 and here five years later we begin to see the balance and personality really showing forth. Also from where and how the heavy presence of white limestone grabs ahold of nero d’Avola’s soul and hauls it straight down to the ground. All the carob and some liquorice define the flavours of Controdanza for a full and satisfying experience, replete with fine acidity and elastic intensity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2022
A preview yet to be released but a finished wine bottled a year ago. The first vintage (as a reminder) was 1997 and 50 percent is aged (12 months) in new wood, the rest of the nero d’Avola in used barrel. Two parcels of the Zuppardo and Agliastro they are, both contributing to the mille-feuille layers that deliver wave after wave of varietal flavour, character and soul. They are the most importantly identified white (calcareous) soils chosen for this flagship varietal red in the Planeta world. Santa Cecilia owns a chalkiness in its tannic profile that feels singular, non-inimitable and willing to take 10-15 years to fully transform. The 2022 is a prime example of a latest vintage produced serving as its best. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2021
Not much movement as of yet, save for a moment of carob, naturally honeyed with caramel and earthiness. Speaks to ripeness as much as maturity. The acids from 2021 are at the fore right now, loudest of clamour and opening the window for clarity and the complex fruit component coming into focus. Yes there is a minor feeling off secondary character but just in infancy to suggest three more years in this stage. Last tasted May 2025
Such a fine iteration of nero d’avola as Santa Cecilia, a 2021 more mature and open than before but is that not what it should be? Fruit so naturally curated, sweet and generous to speak of a great potential and long future. Fine acidity as well while also necessary and yet as the wine sits on the palate those credible and knowable quality of nero tannins remind of Cecilia’s past. Anyway this is both handsome and beautiful, vulnerable and strong. Fluid and confident, loving and powerful, with a spoonful of Noto nourishment to last a very good long time. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024
Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2011
Now well into secondary with plenty of tertiary having come to take over the personality of Santa Cecilia 2011. Still there is some freshness of fruit and especially how acidity affects the development of original elements transforming into later life pleasure. Now showing as a perfectly gorgeous 13-14 year-old nero d’Avola from a second stage understanding within the overall Planeta idiom. Last tasted May 2025
Santa Cecilia from 2011 is a special nero d’avola, balanced in silent but sweetly deadly acquiescence of Noto’s white chalky soils. Her tannins are abundant and smooth, running in one direction and so it’s a wonder how un-evolved and yet so involved this nero d’avola is equipped to believe about and with great kindred spirit with itself. That it presents this youthful and yet to advance is a thing magical and sincere. Inner strength is one thing but outward beauty is the real deal. Or is it the other way around? Either way they combine for one of Cecilia’s greatest acuity and remainder of structure. Drink 2018-2026. Tasted May 2018 and April 2022
Tasting at Planeta, Noto
Planeta Frappato Vittoria DOC 2024
Great freshness and red berry fruit define frappato for Vittoria, “a grape that is magic and if you plant it outside of Vittoria it is not so interesting,” explains Alessio Planeta. “In my opinion.” The aromas and flavours of the grape are expertly preserved, here bursting and the herbal or savoury aspect is so much sweeter from Vittoria, noting like basil or chervil. What matters is the soil’s origin, that being marine and when the grape is frappato the handling simplifies so that the freshness, fleshiness and simple beauty is exulted. This may be simple but it’s also brilliant. Low alcohol (12.5 percent) and above average pH matched by just below tart acidity to result in fragrance and balance. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Frappato Vittoria DOC 2023
The first vintage of Planeta’s Cerasuolo Di Vittoria was 2001 from the area of Acate and vineyards of Dorilli and Mogli. Acidity just a bit higher than varietal frappato and pH conversely lesser. The effect of nero d’avola leads to this wine’s balance between fresh fruit and linear structure. Quantity was down 20-ish percent in 2023 and concentration feels elevated, corresponding to healthier levels of quality and tannic structure. Not always a 60-40 nero d’avola to frappato but that does seem to be the comfort zone, although Alessio Planeta is not adverse to a much higher number for the nero. I mean this is just perfectly balanced, juicier than ever and subtly structured for a five-plus year run. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG Dorilli 2022
Dorilli is the single-vineyard nero d’Avola residing at the pinnacle of Cerasuolo for Planeta. Brighter and upwardly airy to ethereal than ever before, here with a 10 percent increase of the nero d’Avola from the classico Cerasuolo and yet alcohol, acidity and pH are almost always aligned within a tightly defined spectrum. This regardless of how much of each grape are employed which tells us that soils and place, clay-limestone soil and Vittoria are the greatest determining factors for results. That being lithe, fresh and frankly also exciting. Cru Beaujolais lovers must not turn away from Cerasuolo, not when it is made in this style. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Passito di Noto DOC 2024
From Noto’s Buonavini winery/vineyard and also that of Agliastro and their whitest of white limestone terroir. Lemon and mandarin incarnate in any way your imagination can conjure, from curd through gelée to granita. Pure and focused, clean and all about the fruit. The best thing you could do is put a glass of this Passito next to a plate of Sicily’s finest master pastries made by Corrado Assenza at Café Sicilia. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Nocera Sicilia DOC 2023
A world unto itself with few peers making the yeoman work of nocera production and yet this grape holds plenty of potential. It may be ancient and perceived as rustic but in the hands of Planeta it’s tamed and gifted as something easy, satisfying and quite complex. You can drink this with ease and without tension, its fruit more musky and leathery than say frappato but with nary a meant of drying, tough chew or earthiness. This 2024 is youthful and got right for a varietal teaching moment that also delivers a true sense of pleasure matched by pace. Last tasted May 2025
One of the very few pleasantly made varietal nocera on the island and the only one presented here at the ’24 Anteprima. Surely found to exist along similar lines to nero d’Avola, with a touch more rusticity, also chewy liquorice and leathery fruit character. The 2023 is a good if not high acid nor rather tannic vintage, assembled and delivered for earlier drinking than some. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024
All the wines of Sicilia en Primeur
Sparkling
Alessandro di Camporeale Método Classico 2020
Solo catarratto, vibrant, exciting, exploding, 36 months on the lees. Crazy flavours on your palate. Ginger and smoulder. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Alessandro di Camporeale Método Classico 2017
This is the second vintage and for a catarratto that spent 72 months on the lees it’s actually mind-blowing. The wine is crisp, crunchy, salty, expansive, vertical and frankly exceptional. Next up 96 months? Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025
A proper smoulder leads off for this 70 percent chardonnay and (30) pinot noir blend finished clean and unadulterated. No dosage? No problem because of the toasty, umami-savoury, macchia-laden, of plants identified and also those not. Palate exhibits some peanut shell which speaks to a momentary temperature drag in the processing but with all the exotics running amok there is terrific interest nonetheless. Last tasted May 2025
A mix of chardonnay and pinot noir, 70 and 30. Toasty style, sharp and focused, 36 months on the lees to give it aromatic volume from the get go. Certainly not an oxidative style, far from it and the middle ground for Bruno Fina’s sparkling program that began with 24 months and has progressed to 60 on yeast time. More volume on the palate and even fleshiness than expected to suggest that Fina is a natural at making sparkling wines. No wood – only stainless steel. Experimentation has come thus far and perhaps wood aging is coming in the future. Wishing for more length but the linger is full and positive. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024
With the Sommeliers of AIS Sicilia
Fazio Brut Blanc de Blancs Erice DOC
Concentrated and pulpy fruit forward fizz from chardonnay picked at higher ripeness than most. Feels like Cuvé Close style, big fruit and carbonation doing their best to get together. Simple and juicy-frothy with neither issue nor complexity. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Dsisa Rene’ Sicilia DOC 2017
Über reductive and reactive chardonnay sparkling not perfectly clean. Not quite bitterness in the flavours but more like toasted almond skin. Medium toast and mid-level persistence. No excitement or positive linger neither. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Principe di Butera Metodo Classico Nero d’Avola Pas Dosé 2019
A classic method sparkling wine 36 months on the lees, charged and excited, rich and buttressed for full mouthfeel with bubbles that elevate the game. Harvested in the second part of August also off of plants that were first planted 27 years ago. The higher parts richer in limestone are used for the Pas Dosé and those in the valley clays more for Brut. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Principe di Butera Metodo Classico Nero d’Avola Rosato Extra Brut 2019
A 24 months on lees after a couple of hours on the skins for Extra Brut with some sugar but nothing gratuitous and vines growing in the lower parts where limestone gives way to clay. Smooth, really with uplifting acidity and rusty red fruit character. Professionalism incarnate and ideal stylish personality for Sicilian sparkling wine. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted May 2025
Not labeled as such and this is the first vintage release but the vintage is in fact 2019. Twenty four months on the lees and this being the beginning to introduce the wine but subsequent vintages that will likely age longer. Extra Brut so right around 6-7 g/L with explosive acidity so the balance is spot on. Orange and lemon, no pith and less bitters to speak of. Really clean and good length. Tasted May 2023
Tenuta Ferrata Etna DOC Spumante 2021
Fine fizz work with the local nerello mascalese stripped of skin muskiness and replaced with a volcanic savour so distinctly if discreetly basaltic in nature. What should sparkling wine from L’Etna do? This actually, with linger and persistence. Grows on the palate and finishes with edible fungi, umami in nature, all in all a positive result for those who are carriers of that “other” positive sensory gene. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut DOP “Sessantasei” Método Classico 2018
Quiet, admittedly demure entry, of nerello mascalese and the trenchant intention to develop all three essential tenets of sparkling wine. Aromas, textures and flavours are all slowly and incrementally enhanced by serving a long time period upon the lees. In the vicinity of six years for this bubble and dio mio, man how things have come to a combination of curiosity and softness. Spicing yes, but texture is key, mouth-filling, reaching all corners and edges through a lengthy journey resulting in rolling waves, oscillations and blanketing couverture. Substantial sparkling with grace. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Terrazze Dell’Etna Blanc Brut 2020
Reductive and flinty bubble unique to Etna with a can’t miss the chardonnay character. A sharp and crunchy bite into a just picked yellow apple. Balanced and softening on the palate for one of the most tenable blanc sparkling wines ever to try from a mountain producer. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Rosato
High aromatic substance, tree fruit blossoms, fruit forward with concentration. Stone fruit, nerello mascalese skin muskiness, though never pungent. Caught at reputable ripeness for Rosato, its verdancy a matter of natural extension, acidity never sharp, nor failing. Palate luxe and soft though the savour persists and it all falls into place for the category. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Cantine Fina Rosato Hanami 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
Rosé of merlot and syrah, lithe and salty, a vague earthy funk that comes from a mix of soil and how these grapes interact as such. First vintage was 2019 and the path is getting clearer. The tang is extremely high which makes for a slightly vivid example out of this vintage. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2024
As straightforward, generous and fruit-centric as Etna Rosato can be, open for all blush needs. Summer is a glass as they say and no, Etna Rosé was not like this just 10, or perhaps even five years ago. Yet here they are and come to the world with all the fulfillments the genre could offer. Plenty good and good for plenty of reasons. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Montoni Rosé di Adele Nerello Mascalese 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
Intense nerello mascalese aromatics, of floral red berry bloom perfume and into savoury flavours, of all that lives and breathes in a natural Sicilian world. Perhaps a smaller crop and size of berry is the reason for these results but regardless the concentration alters the ’24 course of a Montoni Rosato. Would love to sip this alongside any of the many eggplant preparations by Montoni’s Melissa Muller. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato DOC 2024
Finely composed and balanced Rosato from Giuseppe Russo, ideally mixing ripe nerello mascalese with sweetly captured acidity. You can sip his 2024 and feel the composure straight away, plus enough generosity and grace befitting of all the wines in the strongest of portfolios. Here Rosé is a gift because the fruit is precious in that it should rightly have become Rosso. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
A mix of nero d’Avola with syrah and sauvignon blanc for more spark and sharpness which Rosato by Planeta most definitely has. Crisp bites, herbal, some macchia and provider of thirst quenching abilities. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Cecilia Carbone – Serra Ferdinandea
Serra Fernandinea Rosato Sicilia DOC 2024
It rained on the 9th of May and then not again until the 19th of August. Picked between the 11th and 14th of August (with Ferragosto in between) and with this in glass most will have no idea it’s even Rosé. Vin gris is the look but not the intention because when you press nero d’Avola it’s a matter of minutes between this and colour. Remember the owners are Provençal and in southern Sicily the same effect is desired. That would be lithe, salty, fresh and with unlimited spirit. The spirit and nature of the place. As this does and is just that. First scent speaks to Rosato of a distinct and singular nature, like a marine breeze blowing in and through the macchia-mediated and reconciled fruit of the vine. Of nero d’avola used for all essential Rosé purposes under the southwestern Sicilian sun. Not entirely sure if the yields were lower in 2024 (they likely were) but the high levels of concentration and sneaky controlled energy put this in a new echelon for a Serra Ferdinandea Rosé. Would make for both a curiosity and a scientific test to age this two years and see what new impact comes about. Only the independent variable of time changes and the conclusion should rightly seek and mount higher ground. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted twice, May 2025
Tenute Navarra Rosemosse 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
Full outward wave of red berry fruit, a capture of frappato in fizz, its mousse creamy and soft. Strawberries in cream, a shortcake because of some faux autolysis and pretty much just really simple. Holds a place for reasons like Valentine hearts and others that represent an amenability to all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Terra Costantino Etna Rosato DOC deAetna 2024
Fine mix of fruity and also savoury elements, all understated and trickling forward, low and slow. If a fruit were needed to be invoked it would be white cherries, conjured from a quick soak and maceration before stripping away nerello mascalese skins while capturing both their perfumes and a modicum of their structure. For Etna this is the Provençal style albeit with volcanic properties instilled and made whole by natural processes. Come for the fruit, stay for the minerals. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Rosso
Arianna Occhipinti BB Frappato Vino di Contrada 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
BB, a.k.a Bomboliere feels like the OG for a contrada-designate frappato in the Vittoria occupied Occhipinti world, a varietal expression from the home front with more experience and acumen to treat all things equal, they being available and worthy of leaning against and leading towards ultimate balance. As here from a fine and rocking 2022, crunchy exterior and chewy interior, a Balsamico crust and mix of fruits captured within. Though the Villages frappato is the most accessible it is this BB that ranks as the most well-rounded and if there is any austerity it won’t cause any psychosocial pain. Yet BB is tannic enough to age, stirs up emotion and is truly representative as a best of all worlds wine, more so than either the FL or PT. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025
Arianna Occhipinti FL Vino di Contrada Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
Not all of Arianna Occhipinti’s three contrada originating frappato are created equal and FL (Fossa di Lupo) is the one with most up front and forward extending fruit. The fruit comes from just 15 year-old alberello frappato out of Arianna’s original six hectare vineyard. This from the outstretched arm of generosity, more like the Villages label than either the BB or the PT. More obvious as frappato and still there is some structure, high acid pulse, saltiness and earthy to funky beats. Likely owing to this soils of brown sand over limestone rock. Then again FL is cleaner and more understandable with varietal clarity, that which speaks to terroir, obviously and without equivocation. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025
Arianna Occhipinti PT Vino di Contrada Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
One of three contrada frappato for Occhipinti and immediately obvious how different (at least this PT, or Pettineo) is from the Villages label. Structured with impunity and its immunity keeps maturity at bay. Hard to believe how tight an expression this is when you consider the grape, but this contrada means serious terroir business. Of crucial significance is the fact that the less than one hectare parcel is home to the oldest (60-plus years) frappato vines in all of Vittoria. The vines grown on fine orange sand over tufa (a porous limestone) and the grapes are harvested ahead of both BB (Bombolieri) and FL (Fossa di Lupo). There is a volatility in PT that for some will be challenging to understand, though should patience be exercised than all will eventually be resolved and subsequently revealed. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
Arianna Occhipinti Frappato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
Frappato the solo artist is Arianna Occhipinti’s “Villages” red, a mix of contrada fruit for her classic or classico expression marking the entry point into her multifarious varietal world. The most crunchy and yet juicy frappato imaginable, high in intensity come to the world with open arms and in turn the world should embrace this wine. If your goal is either to introduce this most getable of grapes and/or a keen desire to enter the varietal gates then Occhipinti’s is the one. Come on in. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Arianna Occhipinti Grotte Alte 2020, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG
Were Grotte Alte tasting blind you would not be judged for thinking you might have Brunello di Montalcino in your glass and from a producer with ancient wisdom crossed and forward thinking. A true terroir-driven Balsamico marks the entry and the construction is a bit severe which means the tannins are austere. Volatility swirls like sangiovese but here are nero d’Avola and frappato co-mingling in their rarefied air. Some will find the grip and the volatile elements severe and yet others will check their egos to wait and allow these grapes to be ratified and conjoined after years of settling and care. Choose the latter and great reward will follow. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted May 2025
Cantine Fina Vitraolo Vino Rosso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
A purely Sicilian red wine, something of history, culture and remembrance, of freshness and sheer drink-ability. Tart for certain, that and a chewy character but without weight or density. The fiercest passion in an authentic, austere and rustic red. This despite a challenging vintage of heat, humidity and low yields. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
With Giovanna and Rosanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini
Caruso & Minini Perricone Perripo’ 2022, Terre Siciliane IGP
The pretty dabs of perricone perfume come easy out of the dialectical sounding and expressive Perripo’ because, well clarity and purity. Plump and juicy raisin to plum with more freshness than leathery feels and sneaky structure partially shrouded beneath. Proper varietal effort, vintage fun, in and out, especially with fine and gifting 2022 as the source. Really something unique, finishing at a local Balsamico, especially like mint. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Caruso E Minini Frappello 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT
A blend of frappato and nerello mascalese, first vintage was 2004, now 20 years later, same strong colour contrast from the first to less out of the last. Tannins are the opposite and so the wine has remained the same. Gustatory in every way, “the wine for everybody,” says Giovanna Caruso. From a vintage “non facilisimo,” she says because of heat but Caruso E Minini’s growing zone sees strong winds to help maintain freshness in spite of the temperatures. Full and satisfying with really sweet acidity. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Tasting with Giovanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini
Caruso E Minini Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Vuvalà 2022
The solo nero d’avola from western Sicily where strong winds and sea air make for some of the saltiest on the island. Persistent keeper of faith and fruit freshness when it really wants to dry out and head into the local Balsamico. It does not but stays a most hospitable marine airy course. The vines also grow in round stones (very similar to Rhône Galets) which keep the soils cool. Delicious and dreamy for nero. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Caruso E Minini Nino Rosso 2015, Terre Siciliane IGT
Four grape blend made in appassimento, a.k.a Amarone style in honour of grandfather and his red suspenders. Persistent and somehow still showing some fresh fruit despite the austerity and aridity created by the methodology. A juicy explanation to remind just how fine things can be when attention to detail and passion put collective hearts into making a wine. The mix is nerello mascalese, perricone, frappato and nero d’avola for just 7,636 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025
Cos Frappato 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
Beautifully clean, fragrant and fruit blossom perfumed frappato of immediate and seductive engagement. A whirl of controlled volatility, sweet acidity and carry over to palate flavours in mimic of the florals up front. All the fruit that could be desired, of a focus and a finesse to bely any pre-conceptualized DOC limitations and simply a varietal red you will want to taste and drink on a consistent basis, by the glass, to share with others and as a varietal teaching moment for what is possible. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Cos Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2022
Unexpectedly, remarkably and acceptingly fruit forward Cos Cerasuolo for which 60 percent nero d’Avola and (40) frappato occupy the same place and time. Sharing the stage of open generosity and to elicit immediate gratification. Welling with fruit (as opposed to bursting), expressive of skin muskiness and layered for notable purpose. That is to gift the DOCG by way of introduction and without challenge, neither by grip nor out of austerity. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Gabriele Di Paola and Enrica Spadafora – dei Principi di Spadafora
Dei Principi Di Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe N 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
Only nero d’avola from concrete followed by steel though still not quite as expressive as it should be because of having just being bottled. From Spadafora’s central location towards the western half of Sicily of classic nero fruit from red through black, high acidity, intensity and spirit. Can’t wait to see what happens after another year (and even better two-plus) in bottle. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted May 2025
Dei Principi Di Spadafora Sole dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGT
The first vintage of a signature red one year in bottle, only syrah from the highest vineyard on top of the hill at 450m. Very exposed with direct sun which would have been a challenge for nero and so, syrah. Richness at the height for grape and style, woody still and this is 2012 but freshness will persist and the wine will integrate. This may sound absurd but truth is truth and Spadafora likes old wines. As will you. Last tasted May 2025
Sees one year in barriques and the rest in tank, bottled in July of 2022. Lengthy aging but just a short wood stay so don’t come expecting heavy vanilla, lavender or other French barrel notes. Come instead for the florals, spices, spiciness, liquid pepper, but no smoke. Chalky, tannic and all soil-related, created and driven. Can last for another 10 years. Clean and varietally obvious though not the iodine-meaty syrah kind. Perfume and texture are everything. Balsamico and mint at the finish. ”La terra,” shrugs Francesco Spadafora. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted May 2024
Firriato Perricone Ribeca Sicilia DOC 2019
Singular styled perricone, about face and in complete opposition to those from both central and western Sicilia. Here more related to macchia and Balsamico, brushy, herbal, botanical, verdant and dusty. A stand alone and idisosyncratic varietal red that teaches so much about the triad of place, style and effect. You only need to taste to believe and be aware that this is the sort of Sicilian red to surely show up in masterclasses through time. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2020
The aromas are all fruit skins, of 70 percent nero d’Avola and (30) frappato musky and dried fruit grippy. The aging time in bottle has done the work to bring this Cerasuolo into the initial stages of secondary character which means the ideal drinking window is right where you stand with bottle in hand. With thanks to steel and neutral oak there is just enough freshness and vibrancy to make it work. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
With Anna Ruini – Pellegrino 1860
Pellegrino 1880 Perricone Capoarso 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
And then, and now welcome to perricone from western Sicily at the hands of a producer with a long and winding history of research, development and investigation into varietal wines. Here this combination of spice masala and richness, low and slow developed flavours and macchia. A savoury event run through and many complexities to discover. Last tasted May 2025
A varietal perricone, a.k.a pignatello, always strong and spicy, best raised in richer soils. Pellegrino’s is simply, unequivocally and unmistakably true to the variety, of a rustic edge and yet here undeniably pure as it not only should, but will be. Not a tannic example, nor is it particularly long, but it does what wants and needs. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024
Pellegrino 1880 Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Gazzerotta 2022
From Pellegrino’s main estate near to Mazara del Vallo and Campobello di Mazara with views across the sea to Pantelleria. Rich, chalky and seriously spicy nero at the height of intense heights. A wine that needs time to settle into its skin and be good to itself. One made for good times ahead. And BBQ. Just sayin’. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT
To be sure a different vintage than Feudo di Mezzo 2023, with two years in bottle and yet elevation (between 840 and 890m) does everything to create, install and define freshness for nerello mascalese aboard L’Etna. Time, barrel and place have come together and the volcanic sense of earth and rock is inseparable from the varietal fruit, even from a 2021 that in some other cases is having a time maintaining its distinction. Eruzione is a lone wolf, a nerello as if by blood dripping from the animal’s mouth. Drink this with iron-rich meat – Fegato, either as Pâté or skewered and grilled. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Nero d’Avola Sicilia Menfi DOC Plumbago 2022
If only because tasting with the team at Planeta is equal parts revelation and comedy, it’d hard not to think about and invoke finning things. Like “I want you to cut down the mightiest Plumbago in the forest…with a herring!” But not too big. But this is the biggest of the Plumbago because the vintage gave great heat and therefore the Plumbago shrubbery could not help but take over the entirety of the savoury elements in this nero d’Avola. Full on Menfi Balsamico, or an otherwise named local macchia, like fragrant hay, a.k.a. Plumbago. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May 2025
Principi di Butera Inzolia Serò Sicilia DOC 2018
Varietal insolia and from the central Sicilian producer having long ago made the decision to see a white variety that should and can age. Made in a reductive way, now into full on flint and smoulder, a lit paraffin note meeting something petrol-like in the wild ways of sémillon. Surely as curious as it is inviting and while by itself there is this feeling of curiosity it’s all in fine and helpful fun to enjoy when the timing is right. Which can be said for 2018 right now and so a good choice to pour at Sicilia en Primeur 2025. Last tasted May 2025
A new soil which is both a blessing and a curse, a pain and a joy to work with. Quality comes from lower yields and specific soils. Here insolia grazes into hyper-metallic and mineral territory, protected from the heat of the sun, in avoidance of saturated copper, sunflower and gilded gold. Very short skin-contact and nurturing care turn insolia into this, sapid and even salty, expressive of the calcareous soil and the sea breezes coming from a mere eight kilometres away. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted May 2019
Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia DOC 2021
Still from a time when the team was working with young vines and not yet having reached the point where they could express the true nature of Serra Ferdinandea. Of syrah set to elevation and nero d’Avola, the latter planted in the windiest and driest place. This for fruit meeting backbone and the hope they will find each other, layer, integrate and create spemthing special in their shared space. The style is invoked even if the full finesse is not yet found. Oh so close to what really matters and whole bunches used in 2022 will help encourage this next level of reality. Rosso at stage one is primary, a work in progress and a harbinger for what is to come. Just a bit woody and chalky-grainy at this time. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Regaleali Rosso Del Conte 2020, Sicilia Contea Di Sclafani DOC
One of Sicily’s most famous red blends with a track record for aging, of nero d’Avola and perricone out of Tasca’s grand Vigna San Lucio. The large block was first identified and isolated in 1959, now 60 years into its tenure. Aging is multifold, in chestnut barrels, Slavonian cask and small French wood. This 2020 is officially the 50th anniversary of the Rosso del Conte label with one of the most developed richness of them all, all the while maintaining its recognizable grace and every subtle aspect its always meant to express. Poise and focus but also impressive fitness. Will age two decades. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2025
Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2022, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT
From Massimo Lentsch’s Lipari Island winery with the seedless grape corinto (well actually one central seed) which means high acidity, low pH and also tannin. Not to mention lessening of alcohol that barely reaches 13 percent. A spoonful of nero d’avola augments but changes the sharp and basaltic obsidian nature of the wine. Sees 18 months in cask and you can serve this lightly chilled. This due to the relative low tannic profile and elevated acidity which also means juicy, summery and fresh. Don’t let the colour fool you. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Tenuta di Castellaro Corinto 2021, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT
Pure corinto, seedless and more straightforward than Ossidiana but both are made for drinking cool, fresh and long. A bit more rusticity and also richness because there is some (third passage) tonneaux aging involved in the maturation. More tannin but still nothing austere or causing any real tension. Just 3,000 bottles made of this unique Lipari red. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tenute Navarra Disiato Frappato Sicilia DOC 2024
Riper fruit, dark and later picked, rusty edging for black cherry style. Easy style of frappato but surely readied sooner and with more colour needs than fruit substance as compared to many. No sense holding onto any of these bottles. Drink up. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Vall Dell’Acate Frappato di Vittoria Frappato 2024, Sicilia DOC
Extremely fruit evident and forward, distinctly frappato as its varietal source, a dictionary entry and open window into its Vittoria world. Crunchy red, of pomegranate, cranberry and red crabapple, tart and juices flowing for thirst quenching activities. Open the wine glossary to “F,” scroll down to frappato and this wine may very well be there to explain what it is you are tasting. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Vall Dell’Acate Frappato Vigna Bidone Sottana – Vino di Contrada Vittoria Frappato DOC 2024
The single vineyard slash contrada wine is a different beast as compared to the Vittoria DOC “Villages” label because it really is a tannic beast. The fruit chosen must surely be blessed with a certain ability to work with austerity and depth in its tannins. Vigna Bidone Sottana is both harder to approach and currently unclear to comprehend. A crusted exterior holds importance within, of fruit and acidity in layered composure and intendment, each working through machinations together and for a later, greater purpose. Needs a year, better yet two to come together and begin to express itself. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
Bianco
Alessandro di Camporeale Catarratto Monreale DOC Mandranova 2020
From the cru called Mandranova in Monreale and a a little portion of tonneaux used to induce flesh but also texture and expand the possibility for some time in bottle. Ambitious to a degree but there is no taking the place out of the wine. Stone fruit pulpy, sapid, sweetly herbal and with citrus meandering through lemon, lime and mandarin. Check back in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Cantine Fina Catarratto Fiorente 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
From the most northern zone for Fina and yet distinctly western Sicilian in origin, style and effect. A bounce back vintage for the winery and ideal for the grape to express its sense of place. Crunchy and salty, mineral and satisfying. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Tasting with Sergio Fina – Cantine Fina
Cantine Fina Grillo Firma del Tempo Sicilia Riserva DOC 2023
A stand out and alone grillo because Riserva and therefore we intuit part of the ferment being sent to wood. An ambitious way to approach the variety, to give it the chardonnay touch for a fuller, richer and even buttery expression. French barrel but still there is the marine saltiness and sandy soil inscriptred sapid character. You can take grillo out of Trapani but you can’t take Trapani out of the grillo. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Cantine Fina Grillo Kebrilla Sicilia DOC 2024
The second of two grillo, also raised partially in steel and part in French wood. The younger and fresher one, with green apple bite, more sapidity, less wood and similar styling. Crunchy and with green Chile capsicum bite on the back end. Just a bit overdone yet without the concentration of Riserva. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Caruso e Minini Grillo Lillo Sicilia DOC 2024
Hard not to see this as vehemently Western Sicilian grillo, from the sea and the winds for a slice of experience but also one that assimilates some skin musky aromatics to enhance the grillo fruit. Ideal mix of salinity and sapidity with some metal at the finish. Never a wrong time for a sip of Lillo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Giovanna and Rosanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini
Caruso e Minini Catarratto Catalù Sicilia DOC 2024
Not only unique for catarratto but authentic and existing right at the heart of the concept of ARCA, “associazione regionale catarratto autentico.” The story of grape coming from place with its marine airy and salty entry morphing through rusty fruit, citrus, fennel and finally into a sapid, botanical finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Catarratto 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT
The catarratto is timeless and you can drink it any time of the day. Literally and expalins Enrica Spadafora, “in our area the freshness of the land is what determines what comes from the grape and place.” A bit tannic however, sneakily so and things will change if you allow them to. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Don Pietro Monreale Bianco 2024
Only catarratto which qualifies as a varietal wine for the Monreale denomination, no longer inclusive of grillo, from concrete to steel in terms of fermentation and maturation. The feeling of skin contact is palpable even though it is just four days because a salve texture and tannic profile settle into the palate. Still the acidity and freshness are preserved for a balanced varietal wine. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted twice, May and June 2025
Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Principe G 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT
Just grillo and six months on lees for body and spirit with time having brought about some maturing notes to create great varietal curiosity, like preserved pears or peaches and a settling on the palate. Persistent but not of a waxing energy per se. Plenty of texture and flavour to mull over, on and about. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Montoni Inzolia Sicilia DOC Fornelli 2024
A rebound vintage but at Feudo Montoni consistency is king because Fabio Sireci will never force a square peg into a round hole. The 2024 season was an easier fit to produce varietal wines as he sees fit, here with that great mix of the salty and the sapid. Just spot on and poured at the right temperature inzolia is just so, so good. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicilia DOC Masso 2024
Sharp catarratto, cut through fruit and palates like a knife, a specific mineral that of course is a bit saline but in catarratto it’s really all about sapidity. Fabio like his whites with some austerity and this is the white that has the most, with bitter almond notes come out in the aroma, as marzipan at the finish. This can age, you better believe it. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
Feudo Montoni Grillo Sicilia DOC Timpa 2024
More aromatic than catarratto, not quite moscato floral but scenting yellows and whites, a honeysuckle imagined with lemon citrus blooms. Still ’24 grillo is taut with vague austerity (thought not catarratto austerity) and as with all the Montoni whites the grillo too is so very linear and vertical. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Gulfi Carjcanti 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT
From the wine with the dialectical name for carricante and a beautifully bittered tincture that speaks to sunshine for fruit first and volcanic feels second. They come together but will only improve their relationship with tome in bottle. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Pellegrino 1880 Grillo Sicilia Superiore DOC Senarià 2023
Senarìa means “cold” for a clone of grillo planted in 1980 ’s since been propagated by Pellegrino for more hectarage. The only grillo produced as a superior in Sicily with age and clonal specificity creating the identifiable DOC. Almost like serious chardonnay in style and effect, a Burgundian bite and crispy character that’s part unexpected and part intense. The richness comes from the palate, as it should for a two-part experience growing and will continue to grow in stature. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Pellegrino 1880 Isesi Pantelleria Bianco DOC 2022
A Bianco in which zibbibo is the key with altitude and exposition to the winds being the catalyst. Different plots in several contrada are chosen as contributors of their varietal fruit expressed as a white wine that should and will age for years. Falls into the semi-aromatic, cousin in style to moscato sort of way and the tannins lay really low. They are the underscore, the horizontal backbone that fruit but also acidity glide over and develop their motion. This is a wine of journey, never static and one to look forward to tasting when it passes five to ten years of age. Last tasted May 2025
Pellegrino 1880 Vergine Marsala Riserva DOC Single Barrel Nº 018 2005
Vergine means marsala fortified with soy alcohol and as Riserva (2005) it means more than 20 years of aging. Mainly grillo with (30 percent) catarratto and inzolia, limited production, 2,163 bottles and finished at 19.5 percent alcohol. The sugars developed could imagine honey, brown sugar or maple syrup but they are so much more complicated and therefore unnamed. Also fruit like apricot and pineapple but think moire exotically or better still just admit that something unusual and ethereal is happening. The palate is dry as the desert, the flavours, brown butter nutty, intense and spicy. This is not a dessert wine by any stretch of the imagination but something much more gustatory and ready to receive culinary inspiration. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted May 2025
With Planeta winemaker Patricia Tóth
Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2022, Sicilia DOC
At a time it was the high elevation and now it’s really more about the established appellative functionality that dictates the specific DOC labelling of Eruzione 1614. There are varietal carricante on L”Etna and there is Eruzione, a Bianco as definitive to tell an old story and relay the message of soil, stone and place. The 2022 is exceptional, rising and seemingly hovering above the ground, something very hard to do for fruit grown on volcanic terroir! Yet here is this levitating Etnese, a Bianco of weightlessness and incredible acidity. Will drink well for five years, in another terrific alternate state for five more and then who knows what magic through five more after that. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted May 2025
Planeta La Segreta Bianco Sicilia DOC 2024
Ninety percent of the blend is three-fold, of grillo, grecanico and chardonnay, plus 10 percent “others” which includes the aromatic viognier. All adds up to one of Sicily’s most drinkable whites and there can be no argument there. Cool, chill, kick back, sip and relax. Here, there and everywhere. Put on the Beatles or whatever makes you tick. Just drink it. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Chardonnay Sicilia Menfi DOC 2023
Warmth begets riches and yet 2023 is not the warmest of Ulmo vintages but chardonnay has so much experience, developed vine age and proven track record to get into this full and substantial place. Without fail and the fans of this large production Sicilian pioneer will again be granted their wish. Chardonnay is big and it is grand, with the benefits of barrel and sun, all in balance. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Chardonnay Sicilia Menfi DOC Didacus 2022
For Didacus chardonnay rises to the island’s highest level because it receives the respect and elévage it so deserves. Hard to find a vintage as firm and as tight as 2022, weather related of course with heat units having come fast and intense, but also elongated through to the earliest pf picking times. That would be the first week of September and thankfully so because acidity keeps the dream alive. Didacus is drinking at peak right now – do not sleep on it’s power or potential and find a way to get there now. Last tasted May 2025
Production began in 1995 while the vines are now nearly 45 years of age. In the southwest part of Sicily, in the Ulmo area around the village of Menfi where a corridor of wind, “our favourite friend,” tells Santi Planeta, blowing through between the lake and the sea. Through vines growing between 100 and 450m, breathing cool life, especially in the summer. The 2022 vintage saw plenty of rain though not concentrated at any particular time and so the constant events of moderation were something remarkable considering how often extreme climate events are increasingly more prevalent. The coming vintage of 2023 and 2024 will be affected by them, mostly because there was no rain. This chardonnay is impeccably balanced between fruit and acidity, acidity and texture, texture and tannin. The progression is seamless, the result precise and anyone who does not the recognize the experience and continued work put in may not be paying close attention. That’s fine but know just how special a (relatively) large production, semi-cool climate chardonnay this truly is. Planeta’s year-to-year consistency is truly impressive. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024
Serra Ferdinandea Bianco Sicilia DOC 2023
A 50-50 split between grillo and sauvignon blanc from a season with drama because of early heavy rains and yet there no Perenospera (mildew) developed up on the vineyard’s hills. In this vintage the directness and linearity of the sauvignon takes control but this is also the style, from clean maceration for a capture of saline intensity to keep fleshy and golden maturity at bay. The grillo plays along but never speaks up or steps out of place. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Chardonnay C’Eragià 2022, Sicilia DOC
Etna chardonnay made with French wood completely un-toasted out of Rampante where a chardonnay vineyard already existed when Alberto Tasca bought the estate. The wood is virtually unnoticeable, lemon attacks the palate and the energy is simply great. Graceful while volcanic spirit adds the intangible pizzazz. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Fondazione Whitaker Grillo Mozia 2024, Sicilia DOC
Grillo from Mozia island off the coast of Trapani and Marsala, the only important variety and 40 year-old vines for the most unique expression of the grape. An ancient expression if you will and quite possibly the saltiest of them all. Some will find this sharp and austere but there is sneaky richness and intensity that belies the sear and strike of the grillo. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia Vigna di Paola 2024, Salina IGT
Saltier and more vertical of the two Salina malvasia, less fleshy but also juicy character, instead a more briny caper measure and mix of marine elements. Volcanics come into the soul of this malvasia with impunity and the mineral austerity is nothing short of intense. If Didyme intoxicates it is this Vigna di Paola that takes full control of your senses. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia Didyme 2024, Salina IGT
Iron volcanic sands make for vines and grapes that develop a relationship only Salina will own, different even than Lipari and in terms of malvasia there is nowhere else in the varietal diaspora where it comes way like this. A mineral that gets in you, an intoxicant that runs through the veins and causes a true stoning. Imagine capers and ricotta, shrimp and lime. It’s all there in sweet, salty and semi-aromatic intensity. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice 2024, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT
A blend of malvasia (della Lipari) and carricante as an extremely youthful and so in certain ways playing the part of a 2024 preview although it’s a finished wine. There really is nothing like this, nine months on lees with bâttonage every month. Consider this as “Etna Bianco plus” with more marine influence, a spirited buzz about it and a fleshiness matched by this mix of flint and isle mineral feel. Just bloody delicious. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tenuta di Castellano Eúxenos 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT
Just malvasia di Lipari, ”lightly” fermented on skins in one cacciopesto amphora, a lightly permeable type for just 1,800 bottles. Simulates an imagining of a history of sunken greek amphora and so a message is felt and transmitted for making a wine that just needed to be made in reference to the lore. Ultra textural and a fascination with fate that requires one to abandon a perspective firmly embedded within a knowable methodology of winemaking culture. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tenuta Regaleali Catarratto Sicilia DOC Buonsenso 2024
Intensity and concentration of sweetly herbal and salty fruit with persistence as much as any varietal wine in Sicliy. Happens to be catarratto, one so full, expansive and linear. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Etna Bianco
Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2023
Cavaliere as a contrada white is getable and found in mid course for carricante of middle weight, fleshiness and structure. In other words a balanced Etna Bianco that has arrived early and readied for consumption ahead of the other single place wines. The metallic notes are purely basaltic and while fruit is plenty pleasant it’s not really the lead driving factor. Cavaliere is specific and noted for that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2023
Rinazzo as a contrada Etna Bianco is surely more reserved and stoic especially as compared to (Cavaliere), as if it were let’s say Vaucopins and Cavaliere were Beauroy. Unnecessary wine region comparisons aside there is a richesse and a golden sun meets volcanic mineral accumulation to set Rinazzo aside. Definitely its own Bianco, at once structured and then feeling mature. Feels like a wine having arrived and yet not quite there. Makes for another great and curious Etna Bianco study in contrada-designed peculiarities. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025
Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2023
There is Cavaliere, Rinazzo and then there is Monte Serra. Hard to imagine three Etna Bianco from the same producer could each act so different. Monte Serra is the reductive and hard to access carricante, stuck in the basalt, shut tight and currently immovable. Not exactly expressive nor seemingly looking to act so any time soon. Would give this a year to sort out its thoughts and reconcile its differences between parts. That said the distribution of weight in Monte Serra’s design creates a sense of stability and harmony in its architecture. Thinking further we’d all consider waiting two years to see a release of the magic and fantasy. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
With JustSicily’s Federica Matranga
Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC 2024
First ’24 out of the gates, clean, open, fragrant and fresh. Apple juiced and as readied in simplicity without fuss, obfuscation or muss, in as much as it seems possible from Etna Bianco. The time to drink is now. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025
Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Calderara 2023
Next level interest and complexity comes from this Etna Bianco out of the Contrada Calderara where reds shine and whites like this are golden proud. Equanimous mix of stone fruit and volcanic savour come together and do so with seamless ease. For someone who wishes to experience the next level above and beyond regional or say “Villages” Etna Bianco it is this carricante that will help show the way. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2023
Rich, luxe et volupté carricante for the sort to seduce and reel in hundreds of new varietal consumers. Also that which should surely please many who have already attended the party. More than ample freshness, crisp bites, orchard fruit, mineral sparks and finishing bitters. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Sul Vulcano 2022
Oh so specific style of Etna Bianco from carricante tucked into the volcano and scenting like a garden wet with rain. As if petrichor soaked into basalt, effusive and smelling like nothing ever before, especially when the Ginestra joins the mix. Crunch and sway, crisp apple bites and varietal oscillations. Top vintage for this Donnafugata Etnese white, clean and yet leesy, complex and inviting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
The team of Generazione Alessandrio
Generazione Alessandro Etna Bianco DOC Trainara 2023
Of 85 percent carricante and (15) catarratto near Lingualossa which being on the eastern slope increases the marine influence. Push-pull posit tug between the volcanic and the botanical or perhaps they are actually one in the same. Clean and focused Etna Bianco in any case. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2024
Rich and fulsome, as concentrated as Nerina will ever be and surely a factor of tight, small and low yielding bunches. These as a sub-factor from a condensed vintage of heat units and less water accumulated in each berry. Nerina as Etna Bianco 2024 travels right up the rising angles of the palate, gets into that nook at the top of the jaw before receding into full golden fleshiness. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023
Feudo as the cleanest of Russo’s carricante, crisp and of a contrada clarity for whole rounded expressiveness. Good clean lees living from 2023 Feudo with segments of lemon and white grapefruit providing a plethora of fresh citrus flavour. Nothing herbal or savoury about it, just the facts, of fruit and mineral. Last tasted May 2025
New Bianco for Giuseppe Russo, a selection of 100 percent carricante from three hectares within the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard and contrada. Feudo is not San Lorenzo but it is something remarkable in its own right. More botanical and phenolic but also a level of citrus preserve not noted anywhere but Feudo. Crazy level of implosive citric intensity and taut character. The behaviour is so different to San Lorenzo with flavours that mean business in the most impressive way imaginable. Intensity off the charts, concentration so impressive, energy that builds and builds. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024
With Giuseppe Russo and Alberto Graci
Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2023
Graci’s Muganazzi is a true blue contrada Bianco from stone, of mountain reduction by way of its processes. The palate gets past the wall of aromatic sound to tell us what we need to know, or at least part of what the future holds. This is serious and protractive carricante, cased in a hard protective shell, waiting to be released. Crispy and encrusted but time will do what’s necessary. There is a great an substantial amount of fruit which is what matters most. And of course the volcano. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted May 2025
Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2023
Apposite to Muganazzi is Arcurìa, a contrada carricante with more immediate flesh and plenty of backbone in support. Arcurìa is also the truly leesy Etna Bianco, built on the yeasty stuff and more akin to wooded Chablis than almost any other. This reminds of Fourchaume if such a comparison could be tolerated, but either way the wine is built to last. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Bianco DOC Ante 2021
Smoky from its reductive and flint stone struck moments, the fruit not only behind but well back with volcanic sand after a rain wedged expressively in between. Everything about Ante screams volcanic Etna, in stone, rock, sand, mineral and elemental style. A must try to begin believing. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Bianco DOC Imbris 2020
I Custodi is the kind of place to raise cariccante and Imbris the kind of label to speak in Etna Bianco clarity. The cool-climate factor and style might make you think the area is cold as hell but oh,no,no,no and Imbris is a kind of rocket man. The 2020 holds such a beautiful combination of lees driven fruit and volcanic mineral so there is no doubt a new age is upon this estate. The wines have been working towards this moment and here they are. Beautiful and inviting, welcoming and fine. Last tasted May 2025
Varietal carricante at 800m fermented in steel, put to barrel and then one year in bottle. So much corporeal flesh on the body of a seriously developed Bianco. Has come into a fine place but my goodness so much texture, citrus and length. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024
Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Volpare 2023
Confident, cool and still presently stoic holding on to a controlled, yet to open the gates and be released intensity. Perfectly clean lees living within a structure of carricante built for pleasure and also aging. Really fine work from Contrada Volpare with many years of expressive reveal still to come. Last tasted May 2025
Youthful is the understatement and Volpare the name, so say it loud. This is indeed singular Etna Bianco, as they should be but some are in a league of their own, as Mugeri’s eastern wines clearly are. The estate has taken it to the next level with an ascension of elevated mountain fortuity but also depth determined by terroir which can only be transmitted when agriculture abides. Abides because the maker makes it happen and Volpare delivers generously while also with precision and finesse. Leave this for 18 months or more to settle the relationship between rocks and acidity. After tasting Frontebosco and also Frontemare you realize the latter is the true catalyst to propel this cuvée selection. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024
Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023
Seemingly an understatement made but its only by the music this Etna Bianco will be free. No doubting more finesse, focus and precision from the carricante out of the vineyard facing the forest, an herbal cooling coming in, upping the botanical feels, its development low, slow and perhaps still far away. The taut nature of Frontebosco means the requiem to await what’s coming should be at least a year. Last tasted May 2025.
Versante est which separates Mugeri from not just the north but also the south and the future will surely look to this area for greatness. Not only Volpare contrada but a section within, here called Frontebosco, as in facing or in front off the forest and so the herbals here within are assumed to be elected by the nearby woods. Makes for freshness but also a fruit fleshiness that the more general Volpare does not show. A full, substantial and impressive Etna Bianco that might just appeal to everyone. Superiore indeed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024.
Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Praino Frontemare 2023
From the first to the sea we now receive the carricante out of the vineyard facing the Ionian, a stiff breeze blowing through, keeping the sails taut and the speed up, all the while a finish line yet far away. More lees coming from Frontemare mixing with sea spray for an Etna Bianco tight as they come, yet airy and rising. Would wait two more years for parts to come together and waves to calm down. There will be smooth sailing ahead. Last tasted May 2025
Frontemare, “facing the sea,”as opposed to Frontebosco, “facing the wood.” As such this would be east facing from Etna’s east sector and so the block with the view creates a unicorn of an Etna Bianco as fascinating as it seemingly gets. The most crisp, crunchy, fresh and intense of Mugeri’s whites, citrus squeezed throughout and long as the zig-zagging wind of a single road down to Catania and into the sea. Just wow, with layers upon layers to unreel, unfurl and unroll for a long aging period ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024
Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco di Sei 2022
Perfectly expressive carricante from 2022 for a vintage not always caught at optimum, however the Costanzo team’s relentless. Last tasted May 2025
A cuvée of all parcels from different contrade, including the homefront Santo Spirito, along with Cavaliere. On average 90 percent carricante with (10) catarratto. Only raised in stainless steel, persistently fresh and if any region in the world might be compared with it would be Chablis AOC, direct, salty, smart and widely purposed. Tasted September 2024
Just have to say wow because Bianco di Sei comes equipped with a level of intensity that was not quite expected from 2022. Not so much a volume or an explosion aromatically speaking but an extreme set of eccentricities that crash aboard the palate. Likely needing some rest and down time to integrate because the level of extract here (including volcanic activity) is simply off the charts. Etna incarnate, pointed and exciting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024
Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022
In reality these last three or four years have always been warm but ’22 was frankly very good, warm yet without any real challenges. What drives this carricante is an unwavering focus and persistence, a balance from start to finish without dips or oscillations. The relationship between Costanzo and Santo Spirito in Bianco is seamless, now seven years into their partnership. Last tasted May 2025
High level aromatic volume and concentration from Santo Spirito ’22 and we know right away that this wine knows exactly who it is, where it comes from and where it wants to go. Volcanic salts are also present on the nose from a Bianco of great stage presence and such a smart textural weave that gains every bit of the palate’s confidence. The connection is prescient, reaction calming and conclusion poignant. This is how you make and present Contrada-specific Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024
Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021
High spirit from the Contrada specific blocks to speak on behalf of local saints and soils. Volcanic vernacular, citrus and herbal, gelid cool, leesy clean and indefatigably healthy. Fine carricante for 2021 and a vintage that is sometimes confounding. Not here in an expressive and beautifully made example. So very 1879 in terms of volcanics and therefore Santo Spirito tells the story. Last tasted May 2025
Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, lighter brown for Santo Spirito, from the contrada vineyard at 700m on the northern slope that comprises one out of three “islands within the island” of L’Etna. Still just an infant, implosive and insular, wound so tight, yet to explode. Give this another year, just as the first taste had indicated for months prior. Tasted September 2024
A fine vintage and and even finer Contrada, that being Santo Spirito where carricante (and 10 percent cattarrato) are given every soil, geological and micro-climatic advantage. There is an accumulation of ripeness and stone cool mineral groove from location and acumen that make this move with incremental ability. It will slowly define itself over along period of time that will be fascinating to watch every step of the way. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024
Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022
The most recent bottling for the cru Bianci and this out the contrada vineyard down slope from Palmento Costanzo. Perhaps not the tension of Santo Spirito and surely more richness yet still the balance between fruit and the structural parts. Cavaliere is remarkable for its quality consistency year in and year out. Unwavering Bianco. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021
Very different to Santo Spirito, riper and richer, more cumulate golden sun, lees still a major factor in the overall expression. Just a touch of reduction, tart with tight lines and increased juxtaposition between stylistic parts. Not as focused as Santo Spirito but surely seductive and generous. Last tasted May 2025
Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, darker brown for Cavaliere, from the contrada vineyard at 700m in the southwest “island” of L’Etna. A different expression to that of Santo Spirito, volumetric in terms of aromatics and less austere or rather locked tight. Here more sapid and botanical, less basaltic salinity and fleshier early on. More fruit forward, pulpy stone fruit like, amenability run higher and the Contrada-designate Bianco to drink while waiting for Santo Spirito to mature. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024
Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2023
Archineri as a Bianco is really open and expressive, delicious and generous from the word go and ready to please. Clean lees, a cool basaltic factor and white peachy stone fruit. The citrus is a bit neutral yet surely supportive and helpful in the overall feel of the wine. Really good quality and clean winemaking results in a wholly accessible and aiming to please white from L’Etna. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2022
Lees shows to be so integral and essential in the early development of Tascante’s Etna Bianco 2022 from the very important Contrada Sciaranuova. There is a play of current confusion while this youthful because the parts inside are bigger than the house that fits them. Expanding from within and needing more room to grow, to shed its weight even after eight months time. Last tasted May 2025
Vinified and aged in Slavonian Grandi Botti, “to preserve the verticality and freshness of the carricante” explains Tasca d’Almerita agronomist Michele Brusaferri. Plays hard to get and acts demure inside the halls of its aromatic silence but you know that the elevation and fine basaltic soil are the portents of Tascante’s main Contrada Sciaranuova that will see to conditions for change. Though soft you feel the wood, present with confidence yet the thread of cool, herbal and botanical rins from Buonora into this Bianco. Fruit will soon peek through and announce a scintillant’s arrival, blossoms too, namely orange and then to salty lime later on. Just takes some air, agitation and swirl to coax out the excitement and up into the stratosphere. Turns out to be crunchy and seriously salty Etna Bianco, like flakes of Maldon or Slovenian platinum for what can best be described as living the high seasoned life of Etna Bianco. Structure is there and so this should age quite well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2024
Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Buonora 2024
Both the good hour and bonaire as from the French and carricante just about as fresh as you will ever experience. Fresh and fleshy, fleshy and delicious, delicious and satisfying. Just what you desire on the 12th of May at 650m above sea level aboard L’Etna. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC deAetna 2023
The term “deEetna” comes from a Latin pamphlet dated to 1494 expressing the sacredness of the oenological universe. Terra Costantino’s is one of the finer examples for 2023 by way of a blend led by carricante plus (15 percent) catarratto and (5) minnella. Ripening to fruition happened in the last ten days of September off of vines averaging 20 years. Yes to the palpable feeling of gainful concentration in juxtaposition to a fine and chiseled example with more wiry flesh hanging tuat on the mineral frame. Really well composed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2024
The straightest and fullest of Etna Bianco expressions with all in clean lees bulking up the substantial aspects of the wine. This is the entry point, the gate for which to walk through into the ever expanding idiom that is Etna Bianco. Start here and then explore the rest. Last tasted May 2025
The vintage is represented in a most viscous way. Almost an oily character to 2024, indicative of the variable vintage with September having delivered some much needed warmth and sunshine for full phenolic grape development. A sapid iteration, botanical notes pervading and in the end it is texture that drives this Bianco machine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2025
Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022
Full on sun cumulate carricante from Pietrarizzo for what is surely as ripe and calculated an expression as they come. Full advantage taken of 2022 fruit for all that can be wanted from a Contrada Bianco example. Last tasted May 2025
Pietrarizzo is both available and confident, not idiosyncratic like Zottorinotto and also richer of fruit. There is an herbal and botanical way about this cru Bianco with splashes of catarratto bringing seasoning to the carricante. A bit spicy and even humid though the fruit is the thing and the volcanics an accent making for even more spice entertained. Such a solid Contrada based Bianco. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted and September 2024
Tenute Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021
No comparison between Pietrarizzo and Zotorinotto, first of course because of location but in this case also dramatically caused by vintage. The 2021s are not holding up with the same stage presence as wished for last year and the year before. In fact they’ve transformed into this idiosyncratic space. No different here with a carricante of reductive meeting wet stony elements. Feels like some diesel creeping in, not petrol per se (akin to TDN) and smoky rather than smouldering. A bit of a strange advance with likely something new again on the horizon. Last tasted May 2025
Of Tornatore’s cru-designated Bianci it is Zottorinotto that acts the most reductive and hard to crack. Great shell of protection and disguise, needing agitation and better still time. That said the 2021 is also fully formed, developed and very much ready to get at – make sure to aerate, decant if you can and allow the pleasures to be released. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024
Etna Rosso
Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2023
Strong aromatic presence and pulse for Monte Serra 2023, mildly and effectively reductive holding parts known and unknown. Not to say the aromas are stifled because they burst if within a bubble and yet to explode without. The epitome of nerello macalese filling our hopes, thoughts and dreams with anticipation. Cuts from stone some dreams of its own and though restrained it keeps a watch over the distance with a look to the future. Monte Serra is always an Etna Rosso with the grip and structure to look farther on, to hold back the fruit and preserve it for later days. The 2023 is balanced and prepared for longevity – that much is clearly true and in view. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2023
Tasting Monte Serra and Cavaliere 2023 side by side reveals much about place of origin because while the former looks farther on, the former engages today. A nerello masaclese that makes us see where we’ve both been, reaches us with immediacy and in turn we pay close attention. So much fruit interned so early, so little time to realize just how much is right there in this glass. It’s just that not opening and consuming bottles in the present will be hard to avoid. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Knowable bricks and mortar nerello mascalese as Etna Rosso and dictionary entry for the DOC. Sweet vintage fruit, competently concentrated, simply and effectively structure. Does what needs and does it very well. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Cottanera Etna Rosso Contrada Feudo di Mezzo DOC 2021
Feudo di Mezzo of clout, expressiveness of largesse from the fullness of its old vines nerello mascalese fruit. Still a bit of a reductive nut to crack, a force field to break through, a softening needed to find full pleasure in the wine. A 2021 neither too hard nor to soft, the Goldilocks vintage as they say though the pressure is still applied. This FdM should come into its best years in six months or so. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Zottorinoto 2020
Give Zottorinoto an extra year an it will express itself with utmost generosity and here the Contrada’s Rosso is more than ready to go. Fruit sweeping and swelling across the plate, acids mellowed and tannins as well. As drink now a Rosso for the Contrada, as compared to any or all of this ilk on the mountain. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2020
Dusty and Balsamic terroir expression, especially for Etna Rosso and also Feudo di Mezzo. A high acid style to compliment and even more so extenuate the circumstance of nerello mascalese. A specific style as well and one that garners attention, namely because its persistence and length are really quite outstanding. Last tasted May 2025
Middle ground traveled and promise delivered for the large Feudo di Mezzo as Contrada sizes come, with fruit able to defend itself against generous wood though all parts launch a collective attack on the senses and palate. Big Rosso for Etna, strong boned and willed with the intention to impress. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024
Donnafugata Etna Rosso Courdilava Dolce & Gabbana DOC 2020
Red stone fruit skin’s aromatic musk, pulpy to chewy within and fresh enough to keep a leathery character at bay. More tannin than expected and in fact they build quickly – this despite some four plus years having had the chance to settle the score. Still quite grippy and with a level of tension needing to subside. Impressive Etna Rosso. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Fragore Contrada Montelaguardia 2021
Noticeable ulterior as an expression of Etna Rosso in comparison to the Dolce & Gabbana Donnafugata label. A fullness of nerello mascalese pressed, dressed and prepared for success. Clearly one to serve up and explain the nature but also importance of a single contrada wine, lacking for nothing and of layers far from being shed. Give time because otherwise this wine will attack with impunity and not let go. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025
Firriato Cavanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Zucconerò Sciara del Tiglio 2021
Grainy if fine in that respect from specialized and decomposed volcanic sands that lend a very specific profile to Etna Rosso. Also quite ripe and so the palate holds a liquorice, leathery fruit chew character which speaks to drinking sooner rather than later. No doubt a singular wine and one that screams for best food accompaniment. The duck at Cavanera Wine Resort is ideal. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Generazione Alessandro Etna Rosso DOC Croceferro 2023
Only nerello mascalese off of the northeastern slope of Etna and the place where the iron cross, therefore Croceferro sits in the vineyard. A rich and tannic nerello with a tease of immediate gratification but the austerity in this tannins reminds that time will be the operative and necessity for best results. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Generazione Alessandro Etna Rosso DOC Scaramantica Vigna Vecchia 2021
Oldest vines are 80 years of age and nerello macacesle is joined by several others for a true Etnese field blend. Increases the fruit immediacy with concentration but even more so the tonic profile with fine-grained ruling and austerity that requests time, plenty of time. Seriously structured Etna Rosso no matter how you slice it. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022
Open for business, fruit and acids intertwined at their combined sweet heights. Good palate spiciness and a riveting sense of energy. Liquid chalky tannins still in transformation, likely to finish their movements in another year or so. But don’t hesitate as San Lorenzo is drinking beautifully right now. Last tasted May 2025
The gifts of San Lorenzo are of a slow release ilk the other cru and vineyards of Girolamo Russo are not, but this from 2022 is so full of riches it brings early joy. A great pleasure to have a glass even now with gregarious perfume and readied flavours, of red berries, liquid chalky to candied palate swaths and immediacy from this bottle of wine. San Lorenzo shows off the most glyercol and silken texture – it’s almost candied but of course it’s not. Spicy on the back side, sneakily structured and all the while with a glass we’re feeling fine. Can only improve and integrate with a couple of years time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe 2022
If San Lorenzo is drinking at early peak right now then Piano delle Colombe should rightly be close behind. Yes in one sense and that would be more intensity of fruit concentration but then again no, because of this landslide of grippier tannin. There is no argument about seeing 2022 as a top Etna Rosso vintage and still the wood on 2022 Piano delle Colombe persists without melting or dissolving in. Some might find a bit too much while others will beg to strongly differ. The 2022 is right there where elements should rightly want to connect, intersect and layer. Perhaps not right away but in time, which will only embolden this Rosso with the wisdom and grace it is destined to express. Wait and anticipate seeing its reflection in the snow covered mountain. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC A Rina 2023
Put a ring around A Rina because no other Russo Rosso comes into view any sooner. None exhibit this level of juicy, luxe and getable richness and none shall pass, not for any reason at all. A Rina is a full and substantial nerello mascalese out of 2023, with the most liquidity come after dissolving grains of tannin for earliest drinking. No reason to wait. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
A reminder about origin, they being estate vineyards at 650-750m and aging of 18 months in concrete though this ’23 feels as though at least one big barrel was involved. Not quite as linear and serious an Etna Rosso as the previous 2022 surely was and still is. Youthful yes but more chew than crispiness in 2023, ripeness and sweetness in acidity. No reduction, open for business and read to rock. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2022
Spicing, spacing and perfume define Arcurìa with equal an opposing reflections for signs of Etna Rosso perfections and imperfections. Arcurìa from 2022 is showing quite the amount of barrel at this early stage, notes indicative of spice and challenge. Fruit is up to the task, metered, rising and falling in waves, there to speak of the open and closed spaces. All this to say the journey will end up in reflection in regards to a Rosso drinking forward for eventual gratitude. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025
Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2020
The piece of Arcurìa needing two extra years of aging and settling time is Sopra Il Pozzo, ad esempio a me piace il sud. Or the north as it applies to this slope of L’Etna and this piece is expressive of the sweetest spicing over fruit as any on the mountain. Yes the southern section is also liked but here Pozzo is an Etna Rosso of wood that needs to melt in, puddle below and allow a rising of fruit. That it will with the nerello mascalese climbing the firm backbone of this 2020 with fine and upstanding repose. Impressive and structured for a very long life still laid out ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2025
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Rosso DOC Aetneus 2020
Fascinating study in Etna Rosso because these from I Custodi are different, stand out and alone nerello mascalese with (20 percent) nerello cappuccio. More than just the cappuccio but soil and location add up and amount to what’s in this glass. A certain kind of dried fruit, rich and leathery, studied and mature, weighty but without density. Now a settled wine with heavy mineral presence, a volcanic factor specific to I Custodi and when mixed with the winemaking style it all comes out a very certain way. Do you like it? Try it and find out. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Rosso DOC Saeculare 2016
The consistency of style from one I Custodi Etna Rosso to another is remarkable, to a wine, in all the wine. Yes the 20 percent nerello cappuccino is partly responsible for the semi-rustic, chewy dried fruit character but look further, or rather deeper into fine decomposition of basaltic soil. Location of course but whether you have 2020 or this 2016 in glass they all seem to be at nearly the same maturity. As here with Saeculare although it’s particular grip and structure see it age longer than Aetneus and this is prime time for tasting and in turn drinking this label. It will seem mature to some but know that this is the way and style of the house. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025
Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Nero di Sei 2021
Fine verticality even from Rosso di Sei because, well 2021 and also the lava. Feels firmer than eight months ago and as a result may live even longer. Last tasted May 2025
Nero di Sei 2021 comes quicker to the point with near-immediate gratification because of vintage and also by way of the team allowig and even encouaging this to happen. Or abided more like it, with red berry fruit aromas that nerello mascalese can gift when the conditions are right. This is not to say that 2021 will fade into early light because it is in fact equipped with volume, concentration and backbone. A truly exceptional vintage that will appeal to all. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024
Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2021
Not that the wine isn’t tight but my goodness how the tension is matched by fine verticality from Rosso with an intensity of volcanic chalkiness so specific to Santo Spirito’s 1870 lava. When vines are pre-phylloxera they have a true connection to the actual eruption and basalt because the lava had barely cooled when the first grapes appeared on the vines. A “no lo so” factor in this nerello mascalese character cools the Rosso so that herbal and stony notes prevail and persist, long after the wine has passed over the palate. A remarkable wine (isn’t it always) and another near perfect vintage. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted May 2025
With Fosca Tortorelli
Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2020
Grand and expressive, epically proportioned, factor of a remarkable vineyard brought to life through the coursing of its nerello mascalese. Hard to imagine an Etna Rosso so fine and linear could be considered crushable but this is Barbagalli and its vines more experienced than just about any aboard L’Etna. Crushable as a fleeting feeling but everything is truly in place, all parts inclusive of fruit, minerals, elements and constructions right where they should formulate. The last of the wine is no such thing because the weights, measures and taciturn moments linger for seemingly ever. Wowed and energized by Barbagalli. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted May 2025
Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Archineri 2021
A different and singular animal for Pietradolce is Archineri, chewier and more palate workable than the rest of the Rosso portfolio. Lots of wood still noted on the 2021, changes yet to take effect, not here, not anywhere. Not tight as much as unable to come to be on the other side. Remains to be seen where this road will lead. To be honest it’s a bit resinous but youth is rebellion and maturity will come to experience. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted May 2025
Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2021
Effusive perfume from Rampante 2021, more floral than Pietradolce’s other reds, tannins sweeter and less austere. An approachable character though we know that structure is built for a long and full experience. The most immediately recognizable balance and still time will be kind to this Rosso. Air is on side now, time as well for 10 years forward. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025
Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2021
Some dried fruit and a maturity in the feels of Feudo di Mezzo 2021 but oh my goodness what a charming, graceful and lovely bit of nerello mascalese love in this bottle. Opens slowly and I also feel like their is some sort of obfuscation but the truth is the truth and FdM ’21 is in a very good and right place. Drink this while Rampante and Archineri work through their challenges. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025
Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2021
From the opening salvo Santo Spirito is notable for its restraint and a closed aromatic tilt still very much a factor involved. Like Archineri, floral along with Rampante and so residing either in-between or as a combination of the two. A Rosso of layers, stepping stones taken up towards its eventual plateau. The barrel is melting here so slowly, the fruit fills full and substantial, the power less than intense and the energy still rising, Wait some more and then some more after that. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted May 2025
Planeta Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2023
First vintage as a solo Feudo di Mezzo and labeled this way. Not that this Contrada ever creates the darkest nerello mascalese but 2023 is at the peak of lithe, airy and transparent. The vintage takes over from the Contrada with ever-persistent and linear consistency controlling its volcanic destiny. Without density or extravagance, not in any shape or form but instead a fineness that seeks no desperate gratification. Will it age? Of course it will. These are really old vines growing in volcanic rocks, though if perhaps not for decades. Tasted a second time, May 2025
Full and substantial Etna Rosso for Planeta and 2023, a challenge accepted and met, the effect positive and gaining. Spicing is essential, cumulative macchia also a matter of great importance with layers yet to be peeled away. The reveal is coming, let’s say after another 12-18 months, at which time we will speak of fruit leading and tannin trailing. Grande. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025
Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2020
Varietal nerello mascalese only grown at 790m in Contrada Pianodario raised for one year in large Slavonian cask. This Etna Rosso is exactly what nerello mascalese is today. It may take a consumer three of four times and vintages before they get it but once they do they will never go back. High acid, transparency, brightest of red fruit, no rusticity and refined tannins. Delicate and at the same time serious. Just keeps getting better each time. Last tasted May 2025
Lighter of body but not aroma as it now enters with the volume turned up, a feeling of idiosyncrasy and high-level curiosity. Wild and exotic spicing owing to a 17th century lava flow now in a state of degradation to make certain the nerello mascalese growing in its sands are the recipient of its mineral profile. Tasted September 2024
High-toned, spirited and transparent nerello mascalese from Tasca’s L’Etna Tascante out of Contrada Pianodario. Red berry shine, acids excited and fruit a willing participant. Tarragon and Basil herbal, so very basaltic stony and truly a wine of place. Crunchy and ever so slightly resinous with balsamico mixing into the sweetness of fruit and acidity. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024
With Sofia Ponzini – Tenute Bosco
Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2022
Spiced and lifted aromatics create an effect to deliver Etna Rosso with linearity, grace and stature. Scan a room and you will not miss this nerello mascalese because its confidence, poise and presence stand out in a crowd. Beautiful in a post classic way, part demure and beyond a doubt unmissable. Barrel that needs to settle down and in will do so in two years time and see five-plus years of ideal drinking after that. Brava Sofia, as always. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025
Straight shooter this Etna Rosso, accessible and amenable to all, now and for all the right reasons. Fruit first, ripe and delicious, aromatically charged and energizing the entirety of the wine. Rosso for Rosso’s sake, crunchy and palatable with great toothsome character, A guarantee and stamp of quality in the most professional of Etna Rosso ways. Unwavering consistency from Tornatore. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025
Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2021
Etna Rosso as Pietrarizzo is nothing short of expressive, energetic and impressive. Fruit comes in waves, in and out of every pore and this “etichetta” exhibits finer and sweeter acidity than so many peers. Commercially viable for a lifted Etna Rosso to explain much about the mountain’s nerello mascalese. Quite fine, true substantial and very composed. Last tasted May 2025
If Tornatore’s classico Etna Rosso is the most understandable and straightforward 2021 DOC entry point there could be than we should expect Pietrarizzo to hyperbolize that idea. Exaggerate and also exist in a vacuum where great acidity and sneaky formidable structure combine for all that could be wanted and needed. Such is the case and with the estate’s glide into maturity because ripeness happens and getting to the point always in season. Fine work, as always, expected and desired. Should be ready, fully and completely in the late winter months. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted October 2024
Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Trimarchisa 2018
A cumulative experience in Etna Rosso, fruit three ways, acids and tannins in and out off every layer, a wine to imagine all the mountain can deliver. Tart, tight and substantial, all the nooks filled with elements fruity and minerally volcanic. As they should be. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025
Good to go!
godello
Modica
Godello 