Back to the future of Montalcino

The Fortezza di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous landmarks and home to the Enoteca della Fortezza which happens to double as a splendid place to taste a plethora of Brunello

Just last week Michael Godel presented a mix of the 2019 and 2016 Brunello di Montalcino vintages to 85 guests at Toronto’s Granite Club. Back in November of 2023 the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino came to Toronto and for that edition of Benvenuto Brunello Godello presented the 2019 vintage. There were more than 350 media and trade requests for 120 seats at the annual event, however in 2024 there was no presentation in Toronto, making the Granite Club tasting a truly exclusive event. Sincere thanks is owed to Sommelier and Head of Beverage Brent Fraser for his initiative in arranging a special and exclusive tasting of 13 top echelon Brunello for the club’s members. A week prior Michael had returned from Montalcino where he payed visits with six estates as a follow-up to 10 immersive November days at Benvenuto Brunello 2024.

Brunello at The Granite Club

Related – Montalcino Previews 2024: Brunello 2020, Brunello Riserva 2019 and older vintages

The 2024 edition of Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino was Godello’s eighth consecutive opportunity to gauge the current state of the territory’s sangiovese. He sat and tasted in the Sant’Agostino Chiostro for three days, assisted as always by the incredible Sommeliers of AIS Siena and Toscana. Visits to estates were made at Canalicchio di Sopra, Donatella Cinelli Colombini (at Fattoria del Colle), Il Poggione, Cerbaia, Terre Nere, Val di Suga, Biondi-Santi, San Polo, Corte Pavone, Le Potazzine, Casanova di Neri, Ridolfi, Sasseti-Livio Pertimali and Podere Sante Marie.

If pasta were heaven at Alle Logge della Piazza

Godello’s November tasting notes covered 254 wines; Rosso di Montalcino DOC (29), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020 (73), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna + Etichetta + Altra Tipologia 2020 (50), Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019 (54), older vintages (29), Toscana IGT + other wines (19). The wines tasted in February 2025 now bring the total to 278.

Godello presenting at Benvenuto Brunello Toronto, November 28, 2023

Coming back to Montalcino in the month of February was interesting on many levels. For years Montalcino was the last stop on a week long Anteprime di Toscana press trip before the Consorzio decided to go it alone in 2021. Now there was the comforting feeling of being in the village at a truly quiet time and without the hundreds of media, PR and producers having descended into the area. In November everyone is vying for visits to producers who have only so much bandwidth at that time. In February there is silence and tranquility. When in Montalcino there is often a return to the village at some point during the day. A quick walk to the city centre in between visits from producer drop offs and pick-ups more often than not takes in the Clock tower of Palazzo dei Priori at the heart of the village.

Montalcino, November 2024

Then there is the question of when is the best time to taste the new releases of Brunello di Montalcino. For many producers November is too early and this was one of the main reasons to move Benvenuto Brunello forward to February. That said the winter is a time when many wines (and also those resting in barrel) close down. Is February a good time to taste Montalcino’s sangiovese and to make decisions that play a role in determining the financial success of the wines? The answers are neither obvious nor necessarily constructive but they do promote healthy debate.

Costoletta di Vitello – Alle Logge alla Piazza, Montalcino

Sangiovese IS Brunello. There was a time when the Sangiovese Grosso clone dominated the vineyards but clonal diversity drives today’s agriculture – At Biondo-Santi their nursery houses 59 of them – all in the name of research to decide what grows best and where. The thing about Sangiovese is that it loves rainfall but does not love really hot seasons. That messes with its natural acidity but Montalcino lives and dies by the variety as the only denomination where every wine is 100 percent Sangiovese. There are other grapes grown around Montalcino but only Sangiovese makes Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino.

2024 Sangiovese – Le Chiuse

A little bit of advanced intel never hurt and so this is a 2024 harvest slide of Sangiovese stems taken by Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chiuse, who incidentally happens to be the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi and Magneli’s vineyards are planted to the the BS-11 Sangiovese clone developed by the family. Note the brown bits on the stems – not an indication of sugar ripeness but rather phenolic ripeness, an essential process that took a long time to develop in the 2024 vintage. September and October were cool and saw more rainfall since 1995. Some producers said you have to go back to 1993 or 1991 to find a similar vintage. But technology, experience and confidence are leaps and bounds ahead in today’s winemaking. The vintage will be a “light” one, with low alcohol wines – some will fall in less than 13 percent though we should expect them to be labeled at 13 and anything above that number will come in at 13.5. The wines will be beautiful, with top Sangiovese acidity and their potential for aging will be great.

2024 Stems – Le Chisue

On Godello’s recent February 2025 excursion the estates visited were Le Chiuse, Uccelliera, Sesti and Col di Lamo. Here are 24 further tasting notes for Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and other wines tasted over two days. These wines have been added to the Benvenuto Brunello 2024 list which can be viewed by clicking on this link. Montalcino and its wines are in a great position and Canadians should continue to engage with the Brunello, but also increasingly the Rosso. Understanding vintage variation, the work being put in by producers to meet never-ending challenges and how the wines are evolving are all part of the greater awareness and in turn, understanding. Back to the future of Montalcino.

Lorenzo Magnelli, Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

“Another unique aspect of ’23 was the colour of the skin – black, not blue, like pinot noir. It usually looks like the colour of the blue ocean and in 2023 it was darker.” The words of Lorenzo Magnelli. Aromatic and fruity, like raspberry and currant but really floral, right form the very beginning.” Truth spoken and persistent from a vigorous season and Magnelli always picks at sunset when the temperatures are lowest. A unique Rosso for Le Chiuse and by extrapolation also the vintage, drinking dutifully and beautifully right away and while it may not seem so structured these tannins are quite sneaky. “A Rosso di Montalcino that goes straight to the point.” You get exactly what it and Lorenzo are saying. You listen and you like the story. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Campione – Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Now to the opposite end, tasted side by side with 2023, because it’s a very structured vintage. “I’m curious because it’s been two years since I tasted this wine,” says Lorenzo Magnelli, also because of 30 percent loss to the April 7th frost. But Magnelli reminds that he is not the proprietor of Le Chiuse – it’s the weather that owns the place. He is in fact its curremt custodian but just as members of the Biondi-Santi family came before him, so will others take over when he is done. How you take your turn, play your part and deal with different seasons is what makes your best wines. The 2021 is still tannic and vertical from the vintage of the last 10 years with the highest acidity, that along with power making this a most unique wine, but also time to be tasting it. The vines were quite stressed and so the tannins are not perfectly ripe but the acidity takes control. A warm one and when skins are thick there is less juice for the tannins and even more importantly acidity being the driver. Never jammy as a result, elastic and ultimately built with more complexity. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Le Chiuse, February 2025

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2013

First look at 2013 – A vintage missed for some reason. “What do you remember about 2013?” is the question asked to Lorenzo Magnelli. “Always sunny and cold, never too hot. In August there were summer storms with hail in Montosoli but none at Le Chiuse.” Late-picked in October at sunset, as always. First bottle quite evolved and yet the sweetest natural display of fruit with persimmon and strawberry and the second bottle a bit closed, showing almost no evolution and announcing the requiem for time. “For 2013, a great density of tannins and nice because it’s a vintage that shows the right muscles.” Elegant and truly elastic because the acidity keeps snapping the fruit back on the palate. It’s amazing actually and this allows for a release, reminding Lorenzo of 2016 and the brightness of the taste defines the wine because it keeps your palate alive. Vibrancy in a 12 year-old Brunello (which for Magnelli is only two when it’s Riserva), is not too bad. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Tasting at Le Chiuse

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2015

First look at 2015 Riserva in bottle from Canalicchio di Sopra. A vintage of warmth, impressive tannic structure and in this case acidity acting as catalyst and driver for the wine. The freshness has not missed a beat, fully intact, rising still and bringing the goods from the great Mercatale vineyard. The very fact is that at 10 years the moment arrives to enjoy a bottle of Canalicchio Riserva and here we are at exactly that moment. The window is open. Fineness incarnate, a vintage some say is less important than 2016 but who could not love and appreciate this Brunello all the same. They are different and both great.  Last tasted February 2025

A preview sample. Comes from fruit grown in the oldest two hectare vineyard of Vigna Vecchia Mercatale. The vines were planted in 1987 and in good vintages the potential is gifted, not a matter of grand impact but one of the land, the soil, the brown clay minerals and the elements. And so it’s a matter of longevity and potential, not brut strength. A beautiful example of Riserva, focused, precise and fine. And yet the style is poised in position along a line that includes the Brunello and the Riserva so homogeneity in these soils is more than apparent. This part of Montalcino makes this kind of wine and this house celebrates the consistency. Drink 2022-2036.  Tasted February 2020

With the Brunello Boys

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Defines the classicism of a Brunello di Montalcino from its time and also vintage, when vines ripened sangiovese to the optimum, what Francesco Ripcaccioli would call an 8.5 because as a number 10 is both unattainable and obtuse. In full control of its shape and faculties, a 12-plus year-old wine that has shed its tannic freight, integrated acidity into the fabric of design evolving into the nurture of secondary life. Freshness persists but in the way a Brunello of this age and stature should rightly be doing. A terrific example to speak on behalf of a territory’s località but also in the broader sense of and for Montalcino.  Last tasted February 2025

“Reduction is a way to preserve the freshness and the florals of the wine,” tells winemaker Francesco Ripaccioli. Sangiovese is better set up and suited this way and while some Balsamico is now speaking through this ’12 Riserva’s voice, much of the aromatics are still situated in the realm of a high-toned grace.  Tasted February 2020

A year previous to the ’13 Riserva (which will be made exclusively from Montosoli hill fruit) there is the depth of clay and controlled power out of Canalicchio cru vines. The absolute attention paid to patience and time is noted from a Brunello such as this, spoken out within the constructs of fruit extraction and wood usage. The tannins are red meaning they are ripe and request that you give this wine as much time as it gave before going to bottle and then to market. Lush, consistent from start to finish and just hinting at notes not quite Balsamico but something other, something derived from sangiovese grown in the grey clay of La Casaccia. Drink 2021-2032.  Tasted October 2019

Cortonesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Just bottled one week ago and hello to a ’23 that Tommaso Cortonesi says is “very close to the Rosso di Montalcino style that I want for my winery.” Tommaso has been working and honing his concept of Rosso for more than a decade and this first look at its next iteration seems somewhat of an aggressive one. That is the idea and Cortonesi admits how others who faced major 2023 challenges were jealous of the quality and quantity of La Mannella’s harvest. Palate intensity is off the charts, there is a spicy element happening and structure is tops for Rosso. There are Brunello makers who would kill for this combination of substance and style. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Though released six-plus years after the harvest Tommaso Cortonesi says “this is the first Riserva that I bottled more than one year earlier than the rest.” This because he now prefers that the wine refines one extra year in bottle and not in botti. For him Riserva is not necessarily the “top pick” of the vineyards or vintage but rather a Brunello of a different or ulterior approach. “A matter of style,” he explains, “an example of northerly Montalcino.” Now in bottle two years and emphatically not a powerful Riserva but something cooler, more refined and well, fine. There are wines to speak as sangiovese, Brunello or Montalcino and then there are Riserva that amalgamate all three in equal pronouncement, in concentrated concern, executed with reserve and balance to speak as Riserva. Rich and generous, high level quality and quantity of acidity, no hidden fruit or brilliant disguise. Instead there is transparency, focused intensity, everything up front and personable. Like its maker. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted February 2025

Andrea Cortonesi, Uccelliera

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Sister property Voliero opens with easy access, as does Uccelliera but there is more structure in this 2023 Rosso. Was not fully expected but there it is as verticality and while not exactly closed – it’s not an open book by any stretch. Use your imagination to look ahead and be prepared for a sangiovese equipped to unravel over a long and slow period of time. Masterful example for the vintage. “The starting point for the territory and the wine that proves the ability of Montalcino is Rosso.” His explanation and Andrea Cortonesi will never take this wine for granted. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

More expressive now than the Voliero and so the theory of closing down in February is not locked in, but still the cold weather is not ideal for tasting a young Brunello. This expressiveness is attributed to the master blending work of Andrea Cortonesi and the freshness captured form this mix of low-lying, mid and high elevation vineyards. The sapidity and energy are on display, both at full but the graph is a rolling one and there will be many greater days laid out ahead.  Last tasted February 2025

It’s all in the farming and you will all be hard-pressed to find fruit riper yet with an edge, fulsome while pulsing with energy and rolling in texture – though still always elastic. The subtleties may be fine but the difference is unequivocal and here Annata for Brunello is akin to Riserva. This is because the brings 2020 fruit so forward while also extending the high probability of its longevity looking well ahead. Minimum 10 years because the backbone is not only strong but malleable and amenable to change. That’s how you do it my friends. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted November 2024

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

The bottle tasted in November 2024 was clearly less than perfect and not representative. Here the energy rises while intrigue runs seriously high. Picked on the 12th of October and tells Andrea Cortonesi, “there was not a single berry showing a difference in colour, nor were there any that were not perfectly healthy.” First and foremost the tannins are fine, finessed and lengthy. And yet this is a confounding wine because it will rise, fall and then rise and fall again, in the way of a great bottle of Bourgogne. This 2019 Riserva is that kind of wine. There are years laid out ahead before the reaching of its potential, perhaps five, if not even more. Aromatically speaking the ’19 Riserva has arrived at a great moment but somewhere around 2029 the plateau should be reached. Ten years further will see to the best years and life lived for this impeccable sangiovese. Drink 2027-2037.  Last tasted February 2025

Maturity and just a step away to over maturity from Riserva 2019 taking this into a sappy and braised place. Lacking some focus and also structure as a result. This is a bottle that suggests the wine that got away from its maker but would certainly look forward to tasting another bottle.  Tasted November 2024

With Andrea Cortonesi, Uccelliera

Voliero Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Fundamental difference between Voliero and Uccelliera are twofold; Sant’Angelo in Colle vineyards versus those in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, non-ownership and ownership. Sill the approach and philosophy are the same. Cooler and fresher for Voliero because of elevation and from 2023 the phenolic development in optimum range with more fullness of fruit and structure inherently pleasant. Earlier drinking Rosso of quick usability. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Three months later and a bit closed, not a shock because this is winter, the days are cold, the vines have no leaves and while there may be no scientific evidence to this – well the wines close down too. Therefore tasting in November is a much better idea.  Last tasted February 2025

A sister sangiovese and a younger one that tries to do everything its older sibling does. That means be a child of most experienced agriculture, even if vines are younger and their acumen has not fully developed. No matter because less concentration is belied by more subtlety and fruit coming around a bend will gleefully join and climb the constructive elements of the wine. Quite fine in its own right, if perhaps crispy, crunchy and excitable. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti, Castello di Argiano

Sesti Sauvignon Vino Bianco 2024, Toscana IGT

Having grown up in Venice, Giuseppe “Giugi” Sesti thought it would be wonderful to have some white wine, in spite of and against the recommendations of everyone in Montalcino. He planted sauvignon vines in the coolest part of the estate to become the house white and the first Montalcino (1990 vineyard) white was born. A sauvignon for those who maybe don’t like the grape and now a 34 year-old plot making for a crisp, fresh, no wood expression, bloody delicious and refreshing white wine. A bit of a leesy character to say that Giugi created something that is now simply glou-glou. Infatti! A legacy piece of Sesti left behind and another reason to say thank you to the grace of his life well lived. On average 3,500 bottles are produced. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosato 2024, Toscana IGT

An OG Rosato first produced in 2004, like the sauvignon a matter of choosing a cooler growing spot for the intention of purity, freshness and this crunchy character. An extrapolation on the idea of L’Ombretta, a light red from Venice that you drank in the summer shade. Made at a time when Rosé was not in Italian fashion and today it represents that which is salty, crispy and refreshing. Made from grapes that might have otherwise be dropped, picked early, pre-dawn, an hour or two of skin contact (although that first 2004 was eight!). Originally presented as “il moglie di Brunello,” the wife of the Grand Vin, with a spinal cord so sharp and attacking the palate, but also the acidity matching to dishes that beg for this sort of wine. Is it still a curiosity? Yes actually because it’s a beautiful thing of its own. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Torre, Castello di Argiano

Sesti Grangiovese 2024, Toscana IGT

Solo sangiovese going back to a 1980s Giuseppe Sesti portfolio concept that included the sauvignon and Rosato labels, of fresh, crisp and crunchy drinking wines for sipping in the summer shade. From a time when no one really knew the intimacy and intricacies of sangiovese. “Il grande sangiovese,” a playful way with words and a truly gancio varietal wine here from 2024. To only use the word acidity would not be correct because there is more, a sapidity and more of a basilico herbal quality with vibrancy a step ahead of Rosso. Opens quickly with immediate invitation. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

“Rosso for us has always been a very important wine, despite the Anglo concept of it being considered a “Rouge de Beaune.” A meaningless expression in the eyes of Elisa Sesti because I might indicate sangiovese unqualified to be Brunello. “Nonsense!” Sesti’s vineyards did not succumb to the Perenospera (mildew) disaster because the vineyards lie in a valley, although careful attention had to be given. The forest is the lung and there was no law as to the what or how of guaranteed control, but still the losses were mitigated. Rosso is therefore a matter of quantity and quality with this being equipped with some impressive fruit, a true macchia mimicking the cacti that grow and for Rosso a serious structured wine. Gripped by tension and intensity, not quite open and looking to live a long life. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted November 2024

Elisa Sesti

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Intensity runs high at this stage and while the time of year might be when the most recent Brunello releases could close down, such is not the case with Sesti 2020. That said it was a bit early to taste back in November. And so when we learn how to read Brunello then we can handle the exercise with some acumen. At least more than how we managed yesterday.  Last tasted February 2025.

Quiet, demure and always the sepia toned style of sangiovese of a soft, retro-nostalgic aesthetic, yet blessed with controlled and restrained energy. Flowing, graceful, always mindful and yet youthful and so a bit troubled. Fruit at elevation with wind blowing through its canopies, expressed in this Brunello di Montalcino walking with a purposed gait, always just a few centimetres off the ground. Weightless in this sense but at the end of a glass the flavours, sliding while caressing textures and then feelings pout forth before settling back down to the ground. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

Winter 2025 is closing time, even more so than the 2020 Brunello, in a state of quiet flux and pre next moment exuberance. Do not even think about opening 2019 Phenomena any time soon. Certainly not before the fall of 2026.  Last tasted February 2025

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038.  Tasted November 2024

Colombaio at Col di Lamo, Torrenieri

Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

First look at Giovanna Neri’s 2022 Rosso at a time when others are already starting to pour their ‘23s but hers will not be ready for several months. The decision to stay the course with ’22 is correct because the bones of this Rosso keep it sturdy and the acidity maintains positive vibrancy. Crystal clear, correct and a Rosso to age a few years. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Loving the vibrancy of the 2020 Brunello, a sangiovese of excitement and persistence without any moment of closed behaviour. No change from November.  Last tasted February 2025

Poised, striking, quiet and composed, hard to figure but my goodness curiosity is piqued. Tall drink of sangiovese water, elixir of Brunello, confident, beautiful and sure. Strikes a varietal pose, statuesque yet fluid, malleable as it needs to be, equipped to transform and age with grace. Wood is known, applied with expertise, for more than just appearance but to explain this to be a Brunello 2020 of and for to enjoy a great experience. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted November 2024

Giovanna Neri and Elisa Sesti deep in conversation at Col di Lamo, Torrenieri

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A Diletta 2019

Fruit for A Diletta comes from the mid-slope of Col di Lamo’s east facing hill but in vintages when it’s not made (and Riserva is therefore also passed over) then the fruit is blended into the Brunello. A cru selection and beautiful composed in 2019.  Last tasted February 2025

A special label for the estate and so very different as a sangiovese than either the Annata or Riserva of 2019. There is no missing the vineyard and climate because a special kind of Machia Medditerranea exudes from out of the evergreen perfume. No confusion whatsoever and a quality but also demand of tannins that Riserva will here show. This Etichetta is a special wine and clearly represents a singular expression that could only be of itself.  Tasted November 2024

“A Diletta,” dedicated to Giovanna Neri’s daughter and a Brunello of one vineyard only two hectares in size. The fruit is indeed richer, deeper and in a way more vibrant than the Annata but it’s also equipped with finer tannins that stand up to the fleshiness of the sangiovese. There is also more wood involved and that aspect will need a few years to melt, settle and resolve. Could be five or more before that work is finished. This carries a feeling that is usually one from Riserva conceived Brunello so that should give you an idea of where it is and where it will go. Milk chocolate on the finish. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted November 2023

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Retrospective look 11-plus years back at a vintage when tasted in 2017 was considered not much more than average, though personally speaking the charm, defference and grace at that time was felt with raw emotion. The ‘13s are a curious lot that age with the widest range of style plus character with Col di Lamo’s being an exotically charged sangiovese of aromatic character and complexity. More wood than recent vintages though here it has melted into the delicate fabric of the wine. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Warm vintage and yet so much vibrancy from Brunello 2012. Twelve-plus years forward and still shaping into its secondary personality, showing with grip, energy and intensity. Red fruit persists with liquorice and dark chocolate but acidity does so well to keep everything in view. Surprisingly seductive and true when it is said that Brunello at this age can be a selective lot. As are we. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Palmiro, Col di Lamo

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

The first vintage was 2003 but for argument’s sake we’ll call this the first important commercial vintage of Giovanna Neri’s Brunello career on a piece of Torrenieri land at the northeastern edge of Montalcino. The house above is Colombaio but there are several places with that or a variation on that name and so she chose the hillock (Col) of Lamo. The colour of ’06 looks like to be the eyes of age but the nose is vibrant, of wild strawberry and frutta di bosco, quite fruity and persistent. The palate flavours are wild and mature but the acidity is pure sangiovese. A fully resolved wine well into secondary and arriving at tertiary, but it’s a true joy to taste. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 2024

Good to go!

The Fortezza di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous landmarks and home do the Enoteca which happens to double as a splendid place to taste a plethora of Brunello.

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Simply Red: Rosso di Montalcino

Red Montalcino in the Fortezza di Montalcino

On June’s busy calendar a fast and intense 36-hour window opened for a flash visit in Montalcino, too short yet one so worth the sidle. A great privilege it was to attend the Consorzio Vino Brunello di Montalcino’s new Rosso event called “Red Montalcino.” In November of 2021 the decision was made to migrate away from the larger event of Anteprime di Toscane and with the launch of Red Montalcino the full division has now been made. Simply Red for Rosso, solo artist now, with Brunello di Montalcino’s Benvenuto event returning again this coming November.

With Consorzio President Fabrizio Bindocci of Il Poggione

Hours well spent with home away from home Il Giglio family, two masterclasses in the Chiesa di Sant’Agostino and a walk-around in the Chiostro Museo Montalcino. A fascinating retrospective look back at 10 years of Rosso di Montalcino in masterclass number one titled Dieci Anni di Rosso di Montalcino. Longevity and the subtleties in secondary characteristics came of age through the lens of eight stellar examples. Masterclass number two called Selezione di Rosso di Montalcino brought the idea of “cru” or “selection” to light for a DOC appellation of ever increasing importance. Vino Sapori e Inspirazioni Nel Cuore Di Montalcino is a sentiment that refers to so much more than just flavours. Rosso di Montalcino defines the new profound in Italian wine.

Montalcino

On arrival there was a hop into Violante Gardini Cinelli Colombini’s car for a three-hour tour of Casato Prime Donne, a first and finally crossed off bucket list visit. The two night, one day sojourn culminated with an energizing Red Montalcino gala under the stars in the Fortezza di Montalcino where Lara Gilmore and Food for Soul Italia brought innovation and zero waste food execution to Toscana.

Related – A visit with Violante Gardini Cinelli Colombini

Red Montalcino 2022

The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino vintage is best described as one of blanketing and nurturing, a child of a warm and dry season, devilishly if dangerously low in quantity and one in Rosso terms to envision as lasting for a very long time. There was less disease pressure and the plants just knew what to do. Also great temperature fluctuations, seemingly all through harvest to allow the complex development of aromatics with increasing intensity. This application is becoming an annual occurrence, a positive attribute of climate change, if you will. A season gifting viscosity and that deepest of red cherry fruit.

Montalcino by night

The vintage gains importance because 2020 holds both joy and also grip. Many estates only produced 20-30 per cent as compared to 2019 but surely a number as a factor of the average, norm or potential. Adversity and low yields aside the purity is unrivalled for Rosso, the liveliness too, before transitioning to true sanguine sangiovese coursing through. The dichotomy by way of a 2020 Rosso comes from swelling fruit and aching acids through tannins sweet and unsurprisingly supportive. At its best it is like discovering the first ever vintage of something profound. 

Awards presentation in the Montalcino Theatre

As for 2019, notes from the November 2021 Benvenuto and those tasted this past June transcribed below will tell a story of a vintage out of which quality is right up there with quantity. A season of purity and clarity, what Rosso should be. An exacting transcript of terroir, a mirror held up to località; profumato, sfumato, evocativo…the essence of the land. For a Godello primer on the most fascinating aspects about Rosso di Montalcino, please read on ahead.

Food for Soul Italia

Related – What the winemakers drink: Rosso di Montalcino

In the Godello article about Benvenuto Brunello 2021 the phrase “Much ado and what to do about Rosso di Montalcino” began a quest towards seeing the changes and more importantly the future of the appellation. As a reminder, “culturally speaking Rosso di Montalcino is the most important wine. It’s what the Montalcinese drink daily. More than one Montalcino winemaker has used the phrase “it’s what we like to drink” and just as many will tell you that Rosso must reflect sangiovese’s character more than any other wine. What we know is that the Rosso are the protagonists of the new market.” The attitude prevails. “Rosso di Montalcino could and should be elevated to DOCG status. To do so requires investment and also a mandatory minimum aging period in wood. More vineyards need to be designated as Rosso and were a DOCG awarded the rules would need to be altered to make sure the wines are pre-declared as such. There is enough Brunello to go around and the world needs more Rosso di Montalcino.”

Related – Montalcino Previews: 2020 and 2019 Rosso, 2017 Brunello Annata, Vigna and 2016 Riserva DOCG

Fortezza di Montalcino

Tasting Rosso di Montalcino over the course of two days in June proved with unequivocal doubt that quality across the board has never been greater or higher. This assessment is based on three crucial criteria; first are the guarantees of character and calibre in the two most recent vintages, they being 2020 and 2019; then there is the accordant longevity of both Selezione Rosso but also 2010s decade wines as noted through examples poured at the morning session in the church of Sant’Agostino. Here are the notes on the 44 Rosso di Montalcino tasted on June 10th and 11th, 2022.

Red Montalcino Masterclass

Dieci Anni di Rosso di Montalcino (Ten Years of Rosso di Montalcino)

Il Poggione Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2010

Truth straight and inherent from a Rosso nearly 12 years of age, fresh and immovable. Speaks the structure of a vintage, even for Rosso, were it crafted in this way and equipped to speak on behalf of sangiovese’s age-ability, no matter the what, where and why of the fruit. Camphor oil, anchovy and a melange of “salato” umami to speak of Sant’Angelo in Colle and then, all of Montalcino. Beautiful wine with a long, liquid chalky finish. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted June 2022

Pietroso Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2011

Less grip and hold then 2010 and were it tasted here, also 2012 as well. This Rosso has moved into next level and territorial existence, now porcini and tobacco, frutta di bosco and all the earth, mulch and woods once waiting in the wings. Showing as a wise and well-aged Rosso that has seen its best days though drinks with sweet savoury clarity in the here and now. Drink 2022.  Tasted June 2022

Le Chiuse Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2013

From the producer, that being Lorenzo Magnelli, man who looks to the largest berries for his Rosso di Montalcino. The great surprise that is 2013 sangiovese from Montalcino resides in a glass like this, evolving yet holding its line with great acumen. The northern side of the village surely aids and abets in extending the life of Rosso. Hard to believe the beauty inherent and the elasticity of this fruit. Suave, assured and holding all the cards to keep on keeping on.  Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022

Masterclass wines

Canalicchio Di Sopra Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2015

The Rosso ’15 from Francesco Rippacioli is not what should be called immovable or formidable yet there is some depth and even brood to its dark back cherry constitution. Rich and certainly the sort of sangiovese that leaves an impression, a mark and a depression on one’s palate, but also heart. Keep and enjoy this Rosso for several years still ahead. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted June 2022

San Lorenzo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2016

The Annata 2016 is the most democratic and elongated of them all, that is with respect to recent times. In Rosso this means elasticity, stretched tannins and fruit made leathery, adhering to the structural organization like no other vintages come earlier or soon to follow. San Lorenzo’s shows chewy fruit, part plum, part persimmon, part liquorice and also a pod aspect, like bokser as an example. Acids are along for the ride and chalkiness in not exactly sweet tannin persists. A Rosso in several parts, linear above all else, all of them interesting. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted June 2022

With Asa Johansson in the Chiesa di Sant’Agostino

Ridolfi Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2018

Of lithe structure and fading light, a Rosso in descending denouement, trailing fruit and acids as it falls behind the horizon. Lovely in its maturity though the stuffing was not there to support more than a few years of flesh and depth. Drink up. Drink 2022.  Tasted June 2022

Poggio Di Sotto Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

From 2019 Rosso rests in a red fruit Poggio di Sotto vacuum, surrounded by walls of structure to maintain a vintage exaggeration, which is in fact what their Rosso style is consistently all about. Upon further examination the fruit is found to exists in a state of both precocious maturity and one that will hold for years. Understanding arrived early and yet there will be no great hurry to move forward with any great haste. A wise Rosso with some swagger and confidence. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Lara Gilmore in the Montalcino Theatre

Argiano Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Incomparable to the rest of this 10 years of Rosso di Montalcino flight. Raw, emotion-filled and aromatic of florals, wood spice and new fabric scents. Complexity abounds with an almost graphite-creosote-fresh tobacco trilogy, unresolved, staid and secure. Truth of the sensation is pure Argiano, chewy, leathery, rich and yet clear, transparent and open-knit. Should get really interesting in three to four years. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Masterclass two with Francesco Saverio Russo

Selezione di Rosso di Montalcino (Rosso di Montalcino Selection)

Fattoria Dei Barbi Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Selezione Colombini 2020

One whiff and Barbi it is, unequivocal, knowable of an ilk and administered idiom not to be denied. The scent of history and experience while perhaps not quite the democracy of say 2016, yet this Rosso 2020 comes eerily close. Purity of southerly red fruit picked and layered in equanimous fashion, confident and telling the breadth of a Barbi story. Lifted, rising weightless into high tonality. All this in the micro-vernacular of a selection made purposeful for the specificity of this cuvée. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Stefano Cinelli Colombini, Fattoria dei Barbi

Casanova Di Neri Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Giovanni Neri 2020

Named in light of proprietor Giacomo Neri’s son and produttore Giovanni. There are few Rosso as open, gregarious and generous as this 2020. Quando buono e buono, when it’s good, it’s good and that is what really matters in Neri’s Rosso Selezione. Round, circuitous, acids draughting fruit and tannin trailing acidity. Comes back to the beginning and starts the process all over again, on repeat. Humility and classicism are in this Rosso, which seems to make perfect sense. Wood needs to integrate before the best days arrive. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted June 2022

The Neri brothers, Gianlorenzo and Giovanni

Col d’Orcia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Banditella 2019

There seems to be a trend forming with respect to Rosso Selezione because this by Col d’Orcia is so very eponymous and must be regarded as aching in notation of the estate and place from where it comes. The scents, of fruit blossoms, bosco and sweet tobacco link Banditella with Rosso and Brunello. In this sense Selezione is neither but instead the bridge connecting sangiovese to both. If that is the point then Col d’Orcia is a builder of relationships and new traditions. More barrel felt upon the finish, also the sharpness of yet to fully integrate acids and so with patience allow for a coming together. Can guarantee this will drink well in 2030. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted June 2022

Francesco Marone Cinzano, Col d’Orcia

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Rossofonte 2019

From 33 year-old vines, more barrel than some other Rosso Selezione and thus the link is closer to Brunello than Rosso. Noting tobacco smoulder, brown butter, toasted nuts and vanilla, strong wafts that confirm the suspicion. A full and creamy Rosso is the result, classic for the lineage and highly representative of the house style. Needs another year for secondary notes to come out and replace some of the cloud cover created by the wood. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Gabriele Gorelli MW

Il Marroneto Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Jacopo 2019

And now for something completely different. Aromas unlike any other Rosso Selezione in the flight, more fight than flee, that much is known and free. An intensity of spice, east and west, the full indy or monty, tied together by a vivid set of fruit on top. Might feel like a big Rosso, a.k.a Brunello but the truth is Jacopo is just a bit more grown up, ambitious and steadfast in conviction than many others. Expresses 2019 with utmost flesh, fruit (including blood orange) showing a slight mature to transformative edge. Great grip will send this further so that density and compactness can melt away. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted June 2022

Alessandro Mori, Il Marroneto

Caparzo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC La Caduta 2017

Once again the gears are changed, the climate and soils alter, the aromas deliver what the first five Selezione had not in this Rosso flight of eight. Quite fine, very mineral and surely the Rosso child of true Galestro terroir. Also warm and developed yet kept in check by northerly attitude, making things straight and right out of 2017. The affinity with La Casa (Brunello) seems obvious, with the stones and the slope bearing similar fruit. Showing some age and peppery heat but perfectly in the window right now. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted June 2022

Fattoria Del Pino Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Il Jeccardo 2016

The conspiring factors are all quality ones to bring Fattoria del Pino’s Rosso into fine current form. The gift of vintage, the concept of Selezione and the block party that is Il Jeccardo. The soils are schist-marl (Galtesro), calcareous and sandy (Arenaria) for one of Montalcino’s most diverse. Brings the amenities for Rosso that are crushable, elegant and structured. These are all present in FdP’s 2016, accounting for and representative of the soil conglomerate that makes this a wine both special and humble. A joy to drink. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted June 2022

Alle Loggia della Piazza

Franco Pacenti Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Gemma 2015

Travelling back six-plus years for Rosso may have been an exercise once only reserved for a select few but the pastime is now a normal and oft repeated vocation. Franco Pacenti has captured 2015’s generosity and fruit first commentary with great distinction and the Selezione Gemma is filled with copious aromatics. Moves into stone rolled linearity running right through the middle of a fleshy wine that speaks in a structural vernacular. What’s amazing is how this truly stands out as a complete wine in a flight for 2015-2020 as the only truly resolved and ready to justify the means. Individually or collectively, either or for both. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Il Giglio

Simply Red: A Rosso di Montalcino walk-around tasting

Armilla Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Fine and classic if on the full and textured side, though nothing out of the ordinary as it pertains to the vintage. Does well to merge the rise of fruit into the structured spectrum. All fruit and spirit, a side show of acids and those tannins which support in full cohort. Does 2020’s warm and generous vintage proud. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Francesco Ripaccioli, Canalicchio di Sopra

Canalicchio Di Sopra Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Call this Rosso balanced, even if what emits is not quite the same the equanimity of 2019. Still there is nurturing from out of the blanketing warmth of 2020, a linear progression from grippy fruit through acid succulence. The construct of structural motion is more than just a notion and the wine is in constant flux, unsettled, not having arrived anywhere near its final, or intended destination. Will move with the times, be transferable, able to reinvent itself time and time again. As a Canalicchio di Sopra it most certainly will. Bottled only three months ago so understand why there is so much speculation. Francesco Ripaccioli believes the evolution will be like 2016. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted June 2022

Capanna Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Fragrant and floral Rosso from violets to roses, liquid chalky out of the gate and poised to burst with fruit in the glass. A fine and approachable Rosso with just a minor verdant grip in urgency at the finish. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted June 2022

Giacomo Bartolommei, Caprili

Caprili Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Must find common ground here with Giacomo Bartolommei in thinking this will be a very long lasting vintage in Rosso terms. Not a wine so knowable from the start per se but one of evolution, of gaining stature because of inherent structure. More than seven months since this would have first been shown and there is a renewed potential, fruit quality and substance in action on a current high, estimably positive and representative of this ever-impressing estate. Grapes are chosen based on the differentiations of the vineyard, not de-classified from Brunello as in the past. Yet the elévage is similar, just shorter and crucial decisions are made after the first year. So good. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Elena Pellegrini and Marco La Brusco, Cerbaia

Cerbaia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

“To us Rosso di Montalcino is important because we take from the Brunello vineyards and in 2020 only 4,000 bottles were made, though Rosso is not produced in every year,” tells Elena Pellegrini. From the youngest vines out of a single plot planted in 2002. Decision making occurs during harvest and at least two or three passes are made. The potential is 30,000 at Cerbaia and so Rosso is a special wine, never an afterthought, always carefully considered. It shows in the restrained power, the elegant confidence, the nurturing and matriarchal presence. Again there is dichotomy by way of a 2020 Rosso, from swelling fruit and aching acids through tannins sweet and unsurprisingly supportive. Spent four months in Grandi Botti 25-50 hL and readiness is just ahead. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Collemattoni Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Spent 18 months in 30 hl Slavonian Botti, longer than many and only bottled four months ago. From two vineyards, one near the cellar in Sant Angelo in Colle and the other on the road to Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The latter brings the chalky mineral to compliment Colle’s fruit and fleshy power. A push-pull Rosso, from sweet youth to rocks and sand of grit and fine-grained tannin. Persistence is a key factor and that classic Collemattoni red Rosso signalling all the way through. Will come together after another winter. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Corte Dei Venti Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Perfectly dusty like dried roses, pressed and petals crumbling. Potpourri fragrant and a clarity expressive of 2020, like discovering the first ever vintage of something profound. When Rosso has lift it acts just like this and yet there is some weight though also a weightlessness about the way it’s always rising. In that regard it should be chocked up to the concept of restrained power. Great showing. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted June 2022

Tommaso Cortonesi

Cortonesi La Mannella Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Rosso di Montalcino is the child of a warm and dry season of which incidentally Tommaso Cortonesi is a big fan. Less disease pressure and a vintage where the plants just “knew what to do.” Also great temperature fluctuations, seemingly all through harvest to allow the complex development of aromatics with increasing intensity. This application is becoming an annual occurrence, a positive attribute of climate change, if you will. Cortonesi has been increasing aging times over the past 15 years from six to 12 and now nearly 15 months, spending botti time (20 per cent new) for 14 out of 2020. Top edging fruit and edgy accents elevate the aromatics so that the terroir is allowed to shine on through. Behold this prime work ethic, use of wood and also time in all the right ways. Place is at the fore. Grande. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Godello and Violante

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Casato Prime Donne 2020

“We need to explain that this is a wine that is very different than the Brunello and during the harvest we decide which grapes will be for Rosso and for Brunello.” The words of Violante Gardini introduce a wine that respects nature in a very specific vintage, made for freshness, fun and not as a baby Brunello. “Otherwise it will be a disaster. It must have identity, to show this wine in a different way.” The vintage gains importance 2020 because 2020 holds both joy and also grip. It does not try too hard, nor is it asked to do too much. Extraction is low, oak usage big, in botti. Donatella would like the consumer to drink this young but this vintage will do well for a minimum three plus years. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Elisa Fanti

Fanti Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Fanti grows 15 hectares for Rosso for a potential of 120,000 bottles though only 50,000 were made from 2020. Ages for a year in big barrels plus some fourth passage barriques. As a rule this is a classic vintage, very different than 2019 and bottling happened in January. Another ilk, other worldly, no way to mix this season into the memories of any other. Fanti’s Rosso takes ownership, even at this stage just five months in, a standout to be counted 2020. Balance and execution are what brings it to this. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Fattoria Dei Barbi Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Now sweetly and juicily fruit forward, if a bit out of character as such. This is the “normale” Rosso (as opposed to the Selezione Colombini) and so elévage is just six months in wood. All in the name of approachability and amenability, perhaps the most ever, or a new chapter in Barbi Rosso. For the people, fresh as a rule, democratic.  Last tasted June 2022

A vintage of viscosity and deepest of red cherry fruit, off of vines five to fifteen years old. While really young there is access here for drinking a 2020 ahead of many others. Classically dark Barbi fruit and a Galestro feeling. Bottled just less than one month ago and settled into a calm state by now. Will remain stable for a few years, not necessarily gaining in complexity but surely keeping on. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2021

Stefano Bambagioni, Fossacolle

Fossacolle Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Rosso sees 10 months in Botti (25 hL or less) plus some time in concrete. Selection is from young vines though as they age that availability lessens and so some barrel selection is necessary to be part of the mix. Makes decisions more difficult, having to include some barriques in Rosso. An underdog vintage things Stefano Bambagioni, one out of which after 12-18 months something magical will begin to happen. All this to say that Rosso is “something that is alive,” and balance is the ultimate goal, as witnessed here, in the result. Smooth as silk, of sweet tannins and clear as present danger of a potential for aging. Five to seven years easy. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted June 2022

Le Chiuse Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

The finest sangiovese grain and naturally occurring sweetness come from Lorenzo Magnelli’s 2020 Rosso, a varietal humectant of such pleasing mouthfeel to reside at the top of the region’s ever-improving appellative echelon. Few Rosso are able to achieve this ilk of floating nirvana, where once its largest of berries macerated towards fermentation in great solicitation of emotive capability. It all makes cause to pause and reflect. Really succulent and also architectural, a construct of stone, bone, acid and karst, vertical, linear, moving forward and winning. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted June 2022

Alessandra Pacini, La Lecciaia

La Lecciaia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Seemingly night versus day in contrast with the soft and resolved 2018 but time is likely the reason. The force is felt immediately on the nose, not exactly hot but surely grippy, agitative and a bit bothered. A matter of early circumstance, the reason to exercise patience and wood in charge an unavoidable result of all these matters. Re-visit in 2024. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted June 2022

La Màgia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Quite a dense mat and full mess of fruit for 2020, magnanimous, fulsome, fully set glycerin and pectin. There is balance despite the nearly jammy constitution as a by-product of the vintage. Raised at elevation (500m) in the southeast of Montalcino. From 15 hectares, all Brunello capable and in fact the affinity here is with the bigger wines with only elévage separating the Rosso. Prepares us for what the Grand Vin will be like as it pertains to this specific vintage. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Lisini Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Yet another archetypal 2020 Rosso, fragrantly perfumed to the calcareous hilt and also notably structured from all points leading out from go. Feeling a true mineral streak running through, elevating cherries in season, juicy and fleshy, ripe and fully formed. Well made, balanced and truly essential Rosso work. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Red Montalcino gala dinner

Piancornello Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Somewhat reductive though the fruit set is magnified and of a clarity in black cherry, followed by a waft of tobacco. Works the glass with credibly strong and accountably forceful tannin. In a Brunello vein, there is lots of wine here. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Andrea and Gloria Pignattai, Pietroso

Pietroso Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

A selection is made from all grapes coming in for 17,000 bottles of Rosso out of 2020. Ages one year in a combination of botti and tonneaux, from the start showing great promise. A warm vintage and it shows. Mainly Galestro, a stony soil that comes through in the combination of glycerol and chalkiness. Not gravelly but a sandy-stony feeling gained, of smooth grain, easily transferred over the palate and sweetly endowed with acid and tannin. Another star rising to the top of the Montalcino pantheon. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Riccardo Talenti

Talenti Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Heady, big-boned, exemplary of combing and combining two terroirs’ contribution to layer Rosso di Montalcino. The ripeness of 2020 fruit is at appellative peak, tightening further, compact, compressed and staid. For now and with two years further the fleshy juiciness will surely emerge. 25,000 bottles produced.   Last tasted June 2022 

Tight, young and early bracing Rosso from Talenti, showing off the darker fruit of the vintage and surely offering a glimpse into what the Brunello will bring three further years down the road. A vintage of well developed fruit and sharp acidity, vividly captured in a sangiovese just like this. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2021

With Filippo Bellini, Tenuta Buon Tempo

Tenuta Buon Tempo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Just bottled two months ago, fermented spontaneously in steel, aged primarily in cement with a short stay in Slavonian oak. A late frost resulted in only 8,000 bottles being produced (as opposed to 55,000 in 2019) so hang on to these precious gems from rare Montalcinese alluvial soil just above the canyon of the Orcia River. Adversity and low yields aside the purity is unrivalled for Rosso, the liveliness too, before transitioning to true sanguine sangiovese coursing through. So right and proper, vanguard and directly linear for Rosso. Needs two years settling time. Treat this like a category within a category, or just as one on its own. It could be said that 2020 is like proprietor Filippo Bellini, a case of half and half. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Lunch at Alle Loggia della Piazza

Ucceliera Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Along with Voliero the Rosso at the hands of Andrea Cortonesi is one of agriculture, above all else. If the term may be used this way then Ucceliera is Riserva to Voliero’s Annata. Here the compactness of earth on fruit is layered, beginning with the strata below and culminating in the fruit above. Does indeed need to unwind, shed tannin and terroir while staying focused and in its contiguous state of meditation over agitation. This it will.  Last tasted June 2022

A Rosso further along than many, at least in terms of fermentative culmination and post-shock living. Shows off the hue and depth of vintage fruit with more redness, cherry ingress and tannic redress. You can feel the grip and the controlled power in this sangiovese. Will be a very good one because it already is. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2021

Voliero Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

Farming, farming, farming. When Rosso come across this way, profumato, sfumato, evocativo…it is the essence of the land. Southerly Montalcino at elevation, taut, persuasive and meaningful, a seamless sangiovese missive. For Rosso, what is just, necessary and right.  Last tasted June 2022

Tight, taut, wound around itself like a wire around a spool and yet having found its way out of fermentation and through bottling. Less fruit than brother Ucceliera and also lower toned, earthbound, grounded and yet the acids are right on point. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2021

Col Di Lamo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

“A little Brunello, so we prefer more time,” tells Giovanna Neri. Spends eight to 10 months in large Botti, plus 10 per cent in tonneaux and barriques. Then two further years in bottle. Vineyards are on the road that connects Buonconvento with san Quirico. Still a touch reductive, of liquorice and spice, fennel and salumi. From sandy clay soil in a Rosso of intense hue but also texture. All red fruit with balsamic seasoning in a very specific Rosso style. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Lorenzo Pacenti

Franco Pacenti Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

Rosso sees a year in 25 hL botti, the fruit coming from 10 hectares of vineyards with the youngest vines now 20 years of age. On average Rosso makes up 8,000-10,000 bottles of the total production. Here from 2019 purity and clarity, what Rosso should be. An exacting transcript of terroir, Località Canalicchio di Sopra snapshot of place and most importantly a right here, right now transcribing of vintage. Crisp and crunchy, of fine acids, easy and yet sneaky of structure, so very well composed. Always a pleasure to taste with Lorenzo Pacenti. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Mastrojanni Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

Still tight and terroir driven, that much is clear. Fragrant inclusive of earth and smoulder, woodsy in that aromatic way. Settling in just now yet quite structured and savoury for ’19 Rosso. Persistent, not of buzzing energy but surely from a place. Rosso as Rosso.  Last tasted June 2020

Firm yet a Rosso with more than ample charm and grace, full red fruit and tannin interposed, layered and sharing the sangiovese stage. Takes some time but the fulsome and dusty work here really gains and makes haste of your senses. Takes hold and really does not let go. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted November 2021

What a good looking crew

Tenuta Buon Tempo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

As mentioned in the 2020 note there are 55,000 bottles of this 2019 (as opposed to 8,000 for 2020) and yet quality is right up there with quantity. Balance arrives without adversity after an elévage “sensa” concrete, only Slavonian cask, or as it is said, “tronco conico,” 64 hL. An aromatic Rosso, so bloody ripe, arrived at nirvana with a sense of place intact, that being Podere Oliveto. From 2019 Rosso is defined by democracy and generosity.  Last tasted June 2022

For Alberto Machetti a similar and equally “cool” vintage with grapes in Castelnuovo facing Monte Amiata. Picking started on the 16th of September in a vintage with great freshness and in this case an intense level of savour. From the seven lowest hectares on alluvial clay soil only 50 metres from the Orcia River. Of double density and yields which work best for Rosso. Fine but relative ease and linear concentration for an easy but more than notable substantial essay of Rosso. Purple fruit and proper acids. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted November 2021

La Lecciaia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2018

This ’18 is the current vintage because La Lecciaia chooses to hold their Rosso back in even years. The 2020 will release in November. All done up in 25-35 hL botti for a minimum six to eight months, often up to a year. “For us we need more time,” tells Alessandra Pacini. Rosso 2020 is warm and nurturing, a cross of sangiovese and cask, silky of texture, soft, juicy and also peppery. Fine and never cumbersome, unencumbered because of time gone by. Sweet tannins, fine acids, nicely done. Showing at peak. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Good to go!

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Red Montalcino in the Montalcino Fortress

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