Michael Godel (photographs courtesy of Marc Rochette, marcrochette.com)
Who do we owe a debt of gratitude for this long weekend respite? Frobisher, Lincoln, Parliament, Congress? Who can really lay claim to be called founder of Thanksgiving?
In 1879, Canada’s Parliament declared November 6th a day of Thanksgiving and a national holiday but had to do so each year by proclamation. On January 31st, 1957, a proclamation was issued fixing permanently Thanksgiving Day on the second Monday in October, thus eliminating the necessity of an annual proclamation. “A Day of General Thanksgiving to Almighty God for the bountiful harvest with which Canada has been blessed… to be observed on the second Monday in October.”
Back in the 1750’s, this joyous celebration was brought to Nova Scotia by American settlers from the south.”Thanksgiving in Canada is the second Monday in October, because by the time the last Thursday of November comes around Canada is frozen solid and a turkey won’t thaw,” writes Tom Johnson of the Louisville Juice. Guess Tom never made it up to Canada for the winter of 2011/2012.
It’s worth planning a Thanksgiving meal without any reason but to be hungry. Conversely, pouring a glass of wine alongside the harvest feast is simple necessity in my world, borne of my constant economy and curiosity.
Now, I’m not suggesting we all go out and fill a curved goat’s horn with fruit, grain and Pinot Noir. There are better ways to get your cornucopia or horn of plenty on. No, not those ways. Invite the family over, cook like a wild person and pour any one of the following wines.
The grape: Monastrell
The history: A thick-skinned varietal from Jumilla, in the northeast region of Murcia of southeastern Spain
The lowdown: Customarily a hard nut to crack. This soft number is a red wine drinker’s sundowner
The food match: Goat Cheese on Crostini rubbed with olive oil and garlic
Casa Castillo Monastrell 2010 (165621, $13.95) to sniff is a bit oxy and to look is more than a bit purple. Enters territory of unfamiliar conjugations and be warned to watch out for the splinters but hey, it’s $14! Built for a Raynolds/Miller North American palate, assays more like reposing Garnacha than trundling Monastrell, but there is beauty in the house. 87
The grape: Chardonnay
The history: Macon-Fuissé is found in southern Burgundy and the Roman Emperor Fussiacus is thought to be the founder of the village of Fuissé
The lowdown: Ostensibly organic farming, this Chard is achieved through manual harvesting and fermentation in stainless steel. Chablis like and better value
The food match: Crispy-Skin Roast Turkey, cranberry, sage stuffing and turkey gravy
Domaine De Fussiacus Macon-Fuissé 2009 (279000, $16.95) takes more than a lutte raisonée approach and blows my Fuisséing mind. Sits in a museum of scents, like Pomace Brandy by way of French Marc. Like toasted pine nuts in basil pesto. Verve, gusto, spine. 88
The grapes: Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon
The history: All French grapes but only in Argentina do they meet up like this
The lowdown: No longer atypical colección from Mendoza
The food match: Slow-Roasted Rump Roast, duck fat potatoes
Finca Flichman Paisaje De Barrancas 2009 (17129, $17.95) joins together as perfect a circle as could be dreamed from an Argentinian SML assemblage. A berry collective, refined and showing chocolate restraint. Seductive scents, velvet mouth feel, good length and balance. Simple and structured. 89
The grape: Pinot Noir
The history: Pinot grown in a bowl surrounded by mountains at the world’s southernmost wine region
The lowdown: Central Otago on the South Island of New Zealand is the most exciting emerging Pinot locale on the planet
The food match: Pork Shoulder, Bacon and Lingots Cassoulet
Thatched Hut Pinot Noir 2011 (242933, $19.95) is so bright I’ve gotta wear shades. When a $20 wine is able to pull off the status quo from a region where that quo is $40 and up, you know the future alights for Central Otago. Vanilla, capsicum and tangy cranberry sauce meet a zinging swish of fresh texture and pop in the mouth. “Heavenly blessed and worldly wise,” the Hut will sing at the harvest table. 88
The grape: Zinfandel
The history: Yet refuted cousin to Italian Primitivo
The lowdown: Bumble berry bramble typifies Mendocino Zin. Savoury note gives this guy balance
The food match: Smoked Turkey, fresh and tart cranberry sauce
Artezin Zinfandel 2010 (302943, $21.95) initially heads out on the Zin train with dangerous extraction but stops for the night over a campfire of herbs, anise and pine brush. Plums and sourish cherries simmer in the pot. The style is a full on uprising and welcoming to those who “get on board.” 89
The grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah
The history: Consummate blend for Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages
The lowdown: This really is as good as it gets for CDRV. A few more dollars but this one rivals many Vacqueyras, Gigondas and even Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The food match: Willowgrove Farms Hormone-Free Smoked and Pulled Pork
Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuveé Maximilien Cairanne 2010 (286336, $21.95) is extraordinary for the appellation. Pitch purple, world-class milk and dark chocolate swirl, creamy silk. The stuff of recent phenomenon, where rocks, dreams and raspberries are crushed and scattered like cake bits over the loam. 91
The grape: Shiraz
The history: The jam from down under
The lowdown: Once a quarter there pours an OZ Shiraz that stands above the crowd
The food match: Braised Short Rib, creamy polenta, green peppercorn jus
Blackjack Major’s Line Shiraz 2008 (280941, $24.95) deserves a 21-card salute for its Victorian, cool, calm and collected demeanor. Blueberry, tar, spice box and wood smoke baked in a pie. Chocolate and vanilla hardly play a part. You may “swear and kick and beg us that you’re not a gamblin’ man,” but I dare you to try this Bendigo. You’ll want to do it again. 90
The Splurge
The grape: Riesling
The history: Niagara’s signature grape goes ethereal in the hands of winemaker Dianne Smith
The lowdown: Along with Charles Baker’s Picone Vineyard bottling, this Old Vines effort is as good as I’ve tasted in 2012
The food match: BBQ Chicken, goat cheese croquettes
Green Lane Old Vines Riesling 2010 (283432, $29.95) from the oldest block down on the Lincoln Lakeshore is a flat-out mouth-watering, comestible ferment of grapes. Pale lemon/lime soda but a radiant rider. Mosel in trocken mode, bursting with azoic water, pear and persimmon aromas. Rousing acidity jumps to and fro. Wow!! 91
Good to go!
Godello 