Monthly Archives: June 2012

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Reds

Tuscany

Most of the reds from these 23 tasting notes are hearty enough to help with the summer BBQ season.

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/11/the-wine-diaries-vintages-june-9-2012-reds/

Dominus Napanook 2008 (212357, $59.95) usually displays more finesse than many Napa Cabernet blends but at $60 the flaws in nuts, bolts and chunks stand out. This was a great $40 “2nd wine.” It was solid at $50. No longer has light in its eyes and yet will sell through by week’s end.  88

Easton Estate Bottled Zinfandel 2004 (281501, $39.95) has seen its glory days but persists as a terrific, lively Zin full of ripe berries, bramble and brush. Shows good depth of fruit but no zinsanity. What an amazing wine the original $23, ’98 was. Looking forward to the dregs of this one setting sale south of $30 later in the summer.  90

Macrostie Pinot Noir 2007 (674911, $24.95) is easy drinking with a nice smile that won’t pick the locks. Sweat lodge of woodsmoke and smouldering evergreen spice notes but certainly won’t make you “weak in the knees,” or land you 30 days in the hole.  A slice of humble pie and a seamless transition from Goat’s Halibut en papilotte to a trio of Strawberry and Rhubarb desserts.  87

Shafer Merlot 2009 (346262, $59.95) will always show its long legs best at 10 years old. A fashionista this Shafer, Napa Merlot incarnate. Olive skin, perfume scent, sculpt make-up and total body tone. Sashays down the runway like a supermodel. Lush and possessed of a masculine-feminine dichotomy.  89

Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (111880, $59.95) the paradigmatic Napa trailrunner is positively derivitive, more Marillion than Genesis. Kicks up progressive breccia and calcite aromas, creating energy and power. Chunky liquid viscocity. This one throws many bits at you; berries, currants, crushed fault rock. Less is more. Builds to a crescendo but “whatever rises eventually falls.”  88

Altos Los Hormigos Reserva Malbec 2008 (678987, $27.95) to taste is like sucking on a fig-flavoured Starburst chew dipped in milk chocolate. Heavy juice and cloying welded purple-red dacite.  85  

Anakena Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 (208439, $15.95) nimbly bricks iridian and follows well more serious wines. New and improved new world Pinot order. Eastern spice meets Southern Hemisphere lacquer.  86

Concha Y Toro Marques De Casa Concha Merlot 2009 (939827, $19.95) flaunts Syrah like pitch, baked earth and a bounty of spicy seasoning. A world party of Merlot on a ship of fools.  Get too close and the alcohol burns up the nasal passage.  “Save me from tomorrow.”  86

Mayu Carmenère 2009 (90035, $17.95) certainly elevates the bell pepper status of this grape with a smoulder of imported coffee beans roasting over a cedar fire. A welcome Carmenère more toothsome and bursting with vim than one would expect. Also an elegance akin to Elqui Valley Syrah.  88

Oveja Negra The Lost Barrel 2008 (273979, $24.95) symphonizes Aussie nomenclature, avant-garde Spanish (Terra Alta) blending and Chilean vitality. Malodorous maw meets sugarplum pudding on a lissome frame.  87

Mitchell McNicol Shiraz 2003 (278572, $45.95) persists with furvor nine years on. Classic Clare Valley blueberry fruit, anise, licorice and pencil shavings. No holds barred, Mitch funky bass drum leads, fills and jazz fusion. Successful if perhaps not conventional Shiraz.  91

Château D’angludet 2008 (133082, $39.00) plays a game of concentration, coupling coup de couer colour and smokey, berry concentrate. Weaves a balance of fruit and acidity, is a bit closed but should be great. Wait a few years.  89

Château Fourcas-Dumont 2001 (280016, $19.95) is stuck on brett overdrive. “Filtered through a cow’s skivies” notes the E-man.  NR

Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune Les Avaux 1er Cru 2009 (932855, $52.95) seems agitated in early life. Nose out of joint and not liking the body language. Maybe five years will allow the flesh to eat away at the anger.  87

Henri De Villamont Prestige Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2009 (84616, $17.95) represents good value, actually. But again, what’s with the dumbing down, double designation? The Villamont is equilibrious, slight of body but well made and will work for food.  87

Ramosceto Lacrima Di Morra D’alba 2010 (277889, $14.95) is not unlike the garage band sparkling red Lambrusco. Tony is so right. If you close your eyes you could be sniffing Gewurztraminer. The lychee, the white roses, the salve. Not so much my cup this Lacrima.  86

Marziano Abbona Pressenda Barolo 2007 (276584, $43.95) strips down and readies for the pop and pour. Ad hoc muscles rolling, flexed and waning, Pressenda enters into an enlightened stage where “hours are like diamonds, don’t let them waste.” Drink alongside a muscle shoal, country-soul-tinged Stones record.  90

Pio Cesare Barbera D’alba 2010 (938886, $19.95) of pungent Caciotta al Tartufo slathered on Melba Toast. Of black cherry cordial, Cointreau, orange zest and fennel biscotti. Grainy tannins. Excellent example. 88

Barone Ricasoli Castelli Di Brolio Chianti Classico 2008 (942607, $59.95) grandstands commodious, extracted chroma for Sangiovese. Gargantuan beak of Rosmarinus officinalis, Frantoio olive and ripe blackberries. Polish, discretion and savvy. Everything under the Tuscan sun and more.  For a current splurge.  91

Poggiotondo Bunello Di Montalcino 2006 (276576, $34.95) gifts yet another sub $35 sub-escarpment Sangiovese Grosso out of the vineyard mouth by Tenuta Pietranera. Stands on nani gigantum humeris insidentes, bespoken of an urban diction. Precocious, fruit forward, gold on the ceiling. Onyx gem in the key of black, “a roar at the door.” An oasis of pleasure for present day consumption.  89

Remo Farina Le Pezze Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008 (171587, $33.95) underwhelms as a no kicker. Needs no Euro hype nor boozy heft to make itself understood. Modish mocha java speaks fluent huttish, communicating by lingua franca vernacular to the initiated. “Goopta mo bossa!”  92

Fernández De Piérola Reserva 2004 (270579, $25.95) is an oxidized bottle.  NR

Rioja Bordón Tempranillo Reserva 2006 (194753, $18.95) has zest, zing and bling. A freshmaker for ’06, full of mint and Ibex exudation. Needs three to five years to achieve excellency.  89

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Whites and Rosés

Coyote’s Run. Photo Credit: Michael Pinkus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Niagara wines top this list. Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard is a legend in the making. Hinterbrook blows me away with a world-class Rosé.

Nino Franco Faive Brut Sparkling Rosé 2010 (31567, $19.95) the eruptive El Nino of Strawberry fizz is creamy and yet light on its feet. Elevates pink Venetian bubbles to a higher caste and hovers with good length. Wedding ready.  87

Codorníu Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Cava NV (665372, $17.95), always easy on the eyes and nose, boasts red skin apple effervescence and tastes like apple cake in liquid form. But, if you are the largest Champagne-substitute producer on the planet, why does the price have to rise by $3?  Anyone, VINTAGES, Bueller?  86

Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 (49775, $21.95) whiffs a sliver of Niagara Gold, paw paw and petrol. Take this man-eating elixir to bed and the possibility exists for some arm chewing as a means for escape in the morning. This formidable, complex and consistent vineyard is developing as a legend in Niagara terroir. Nothing beats its CVR** potential at this price.  90

 

Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2009 (346304, $51.95) tests my vertigo. High anxiety, explosive acidity initially causes fear but a rhubarb tropical balance helps to subdue the tension. Ballsy Chardonnay.  89

Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (346296, $29.95) sees the tree for the forest and stands tall like a redwood. Dry humoured and almost Dry Creek-like of a no oak order. LOL at the double designation. Make up your mind Mike, “is he gonna shit, or is he gonna kill us?” Spicoli SB.  89

McManis Chardonnay 2010 (265983, $19.95) the utilitarian one of Wonder white toast and sweet, yellow viscous juice. Sorry, drink.  85

Simi Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2009 (200881, $31.95) suggests socialist stock, RRV buttered popcorn, nuts and bolts. Solid and direct Melon Blanc leading Waylon Smithers to love the A+ score from Mr. Burns. “How old is this guy?” he wants to know. Glad he didn’t offer to take off his belt. “With pleasure sir.”  87

Cono Sur Limited Edition 20 Barrels Chardonnay 2008 (127498, $24.95) simply personifies and aromatically packages cooler Chile in a baked golden delicious, apple pie. From the mineral and red clay soils of El Centinela. A Christian Seventh-day Adventist magazine? No, a Casablanca wine estate.  87

Concha Y Toro Trio Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (678656, $13.95) of purling, floral apricot blossom fragrance whorls pralined pecan. A three-valley SB offering good value if not obvious in identity.  85

Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (283648, $14.95) whiffs calden and peas in a musky b-flat tone beneath the algarobilla. Candied gooseberry, juicy fruit with a touch of bitter carob.   84

Hunter’s Jane Hunter Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (280271, $19.95) of imperceptible tint tropically buffs cerate guava and mangosteen. The duck, duck bypassing of the Chileans lands goose on this SB. The Kiwi is a charmer, a real cake-eater.  88

Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2010 (277939, $21.95) is hardcore, a tough mudder full of yeasty, cranky green eggs and bam. Wild Emeril South African juice for boot camp.  86

Château Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010 (16709, $17.95) is an off-bottle. Atomic 16 off the charts.  NR

Domaine Pierre De La Grange Vielle Vignes Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2010 (274654, $24.95) of coarse, saline grain and winter melon climbing and trailing from lamellar phyllite. Good metamorphic weight and distance. Would be top IVR* in its class at $12.95.  87

Lingenfelder Bird Riesling 2010 (568634, $13.95) has lost its chops over the years. The entry level QbA Bergweiler outdoes the Bird on all levels. Better yet, go any Riesling from Niagara over the Ling at this price and order it with the Lingonberry pancake.  83

Hinterbrook Rosé 2011 (275818, $16.00) is simply brilliant. Top Ontario Rosé to date. Goes well beyond descriptors like “playful” and “quaffable.” A four-day Cabernet Franc cold soak was the ticket to serious pink success, the choice of grape an engineering master stroke. Hinterbrook’s dark side of the moon. Moody, ambient, rich in tone, lyric and extended play. Rosé needs some mystery and here it is.  “There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it’s all dark.”  91

 

Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Pinks Dry Rosé 2011 (277970, $19.95) of rare Valdiguie, a.k.a. Napa Gamay and 1/4 Pinot shows shipshape extraction and variant bitterness. Lacks dimension and ultimately stands like a crane on one leg.   85

Carte Noire Rosé 2011 (319384, $14.95) casts a rainbow, tawny-pink shadow in chromatic film noir fashion. Smells like a pink pleasure palace, cotton candy factory and a mix of rocks and pink lavender. Definitely puts the horse before the cart.  87

La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2011 (119453, $17.95) chases a fading blossom on a bitter almond tree. At 14% abv it’s unbraided and a bit anti-Provence in style.  84

Famille Perrin Tavel Rosé 2011 (680801, $19.95) shines as the evening sun, sitting like phosphorous on the wine’s flesh. Serious for Rosé, the olive-skin Mediterranean edges are echoed in a savoury accent, of garrigue and pressed oil.   88


Cabriz Rosé 2011 (30445, $11.95) blends twiggy Alfrochiero with zaftig Touriga for an E-man plea of “light colour but electric pink!” A-1 IVR* value from Portugal’s Dão Sul. Definitely the way to go in cheap Rosé.  86

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

VINTAGES June 9, 2012 Release: Six from Chile

Chilean Vineyard. Photo Credit: Thad Roan – Bridgepix

Of the 15 whites and reds I tasted from this VINTAGES amassed Chilean lot, six stood out above the pack. Look for Syrah and Cabernet Franc grown at high altitudes on the slopes and valleys of Chile’s mountainous North to be future stars.

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/07/vintages-june-9-2012-release-six-from-chile/

Emiliana Signos De Origen La Vinilla Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne/Roussane 2010 (0063909, $19.95) exhibits its organic status in millón vanillin yellow crystal scents. Add to that an orange tang and the Vinilla works the Rhône room both North and South, finishing Viognier with an “ice, ice, baby” refrain. Bring on the suckling porcine cena.  88

Maycas Del Limarí Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2010 (0162040, $19.95) offers up sweet, saponaceous fumes from high octane green mountain orchards. Descends momentarily but ascends again for the peak where fried melon rind dips into red pepper piri-piri sauce. Unusual yet striking.  87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Altaïr Sideral 2007 (0660837, $26.95) waxes Italian through gamey notes, despite its varietal French pedigree. Reticent Cabernet whiffs subtle poached pear in fermented grape juice. Builds mineral pistol momentum then turns vicious on the animale note. The Sideral is always entertaining and can claim “I did it my way.” The great Chilean Bordeaux blend swindle.  88

Concha Y Toro Terrunyo Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (0562918, $29.95) may be full in body and bleeding heart extraction yet acts backwardly mobile. It’s terraced Cabernet continence shakes contrary to its bodacious and bootyliscious appearance. Stand five years then pour it with a charred bovine’s blue, beating heart.  89

Maycas Del Limarí Reserva Especial Syrah 2008 (0269423, $19.95) clicks on all cylinders. High altitude vineyards with cool, Andes breezes produce high octane, voluminous Syrah. Bacon fat and smoked meat lead to shrewd tannins possessive of a sudden glare, like its attention has filed down to a single, sharp point.  88

Potro De Piedra Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 2008 (0273995, $24.95) the beguiler intrigues as a stone cold groove with wild herbs, flowers and underbrush that perfume the glass. A residual piedra sagrada hard edge mars the finish but this is otherwise a stroke of brilliance. Wait three years and call it a day.  89

Good to go!

Four alternative whites from the Vintages June 9th release

White Grapes. Photo Credit: Steve Borichevsky

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/06/four-alternative-whites-from-the-vintages-june-9th-release/

A world awaits outside the white wine box of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. There are aromatics unsniffed, flavors not yet tasted, varietals unexplored. Coming this weekend to a stadium of hate, (sorry, wrong genre), to an LCBO Vintages location near you are whites to usher in a summer of sipping, savouring and sweating.

Sandhill Small Lots Viognier 2010 (0126862, $24.95) is culpable in complexities. Nails Northern Rhône in British Columbia by way of Great Bear shacked up with the Sonoran. Raises arid Arizona desert and tropical tree fruit scents. Mesquite mingling with Pecan. Makes you want to sit down with a mess of crustaceans. Would drink well with just about anything. “When we didn’t have Crawdads we ate sand.” 90

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D’arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne 2010 (0662775, $17.95) the Aussie ranger works because its two Northern and Southern Rhône grapes interchange within each other’s shells. The seamless integration emanates calcified, cool, concise pear and spice. I have always liked this modest, McLarenVale molter.  89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2009 (0197186, $21.95) races out of the nuss pit with peerless Bergweiler CVR** Spätlese speed. The late harvest drupe is so focused you would never know how sweet the middle ground really is. Never struggling against circumstance, it slides effortlessly into Spätlese orbit. Searching and finding the German Riesling dream. Sonnenuhr vineyard is here and “the time is right, for racing in the street.”  91

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abanico Tempestad Godello 2010 (0276071, $17.95) magnetizes the sandstone, schist, ordovicic and siluric slate of Valdeorras with the equatorial side of Chardonnay, of melon and pineapple. Equivalent to good Burgundy? Not so much. The fruit acid continuum does persist though and a tempest of Spanish flavour abounds. Will the Godello prosper?  “Let your indulgence set me free.”  88

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

Ultimate cooking for 800 is no E3 Expo or Chelsea Bun party

Ultimate Firsbee Layout. Photo: Nick Cheng

My alter ego cooks for a living.  Every year since 1995, on the first weekend of June in Fergus, Ontario, I assume my position as caterer to upwards of 800 Ultimate Frisbee players. Fergus is a quaint and upscale hamlet in Wellington County on the picturesque Grand River, just upstream from the Elora Gorge.

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/05/ultimate-cooking-for-800-is-no-e3-expo-or-chelsea-bun-party/

This past weekend my catering team set up shop in the Fergus Sportsplex Community Centre kitchen to serve two breakfasts, one banquet supper and many snacks to 600. Do you remember two Chelsea FC players engaged in a cook-off this time last year? This cooking is not that. This is no Chelsea bun party. It’s no E3 video game simulation. Ultimate cooking is trench warfare. Good thing I’ve a few War Horses to see me through the barb.

Fergus

The Gender Blender Co-ed Ultimate Frisbee Tournament was realized by two former teammates, Dan Berman and Mark Evans. They brought me on board to feed the masses and coincidentally, one week before that first event back in ’95, I tore my ACL, effectively ending my Ultimate playing days. Let’s hope Chelsea FC’s Mr.’s Barry, Lampard and Cahill will heal better than I did and grace their pitch once again next season. I cooked that first Gender Blender for 125 on crutches. Here is my team from 1997.

Zoydz at Gender Blender 1997

In 2004 Karen Hood, Dilhan Kuru and Giles Deshon took the reigns and we grew the event to 600. In 2008 a man named Blue took the helm with his company, The Ultimate Experience. Two years ago we catered to 800 players. This year the number was 600 because many teams did not return after the rain deluge of 2011. In 2013 we could be cooking for 1000. Blue will soon announce that the 19th Gender Blender will be the last. Great teams from the past will come out of the woodwork to participate. It will be a special weekend.

Gender Blender 2012

This year’s dinner menu:

Warm Barque Smokehouse Brisket and Pulled Chicken Sandwiches
Cole Slaw, two ways
Stuffed, Roasted Peppers, brown rice, chick peas, feta, carrot, oven-dried tomato, greek oregano
Due Penne, italian sausage, chicken/brisket bbq demi-glacé and tomato, caramelized onion
Hearts of Romaine Salad, green beans, broccoli, carrot, cucumber, balsamic vinaigrette
Green and Red Lentil Salad, tofu, corn, peppers, italian parsley

Not unlike that other great Canadian outdoor sports gathering, the Taylor Cup Pond Hockey Championship, Gender Blender is a beer fest. So, what does a caterer pop open after 14 hours at the stoves? Rosé of course!

Delas Frères Saint Esprit Côtes Du Rhône Rosé 2011 (224964, $12.95) shows consistent with last week’s note. “Offers up strawberry, rhubarb and cream with a savoury accent. Subtle pale, pink, see-through hue and warming humidity. Great value here. Rosie you’re all right. “Looks like it’s me and you again tonight.”  88

 

Good to go!

Re-wined up. May openings and online releases

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/01/re-wined-up-may-openings-and-online-releases/

One Pinot, two Shiraz, three Tintos and 27 obscure grapes.

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark & Telephone Vineyard 2005 (652883, $39.95) has softened since the last visit on Mother’s Day 2009. Speculation upon release of Chuck Wagner’s Single Vineyard Pinot fetish was “just a bet on a race between the lights.” Mom (and dad) agreed back then there was too much mined, dark anise and vanila fruit, too much ore. The C & T abused the mouth, took no prisoners. Today the plum candy remains and despite a band-aid note, a silky texture lights the Paschal flame. The univocal Glos has transfigurated out of the “darkness and into the day.”  91

St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2009 (535104, $29.95) from the March 17th, 2012 VINTAGES release as I previously penned, “bests Barossa at this price point and on a limb for that matter, anywhere in the land of Oz.” From lands Ebenezer, Seppeltsfield and Greenock, receives extended elevage (20 months) in American Oak and shows off like a multi-coloured bruise. Blackwell’s got Squib Cakes, stands as a raw, intense tower of black fruit power. Has the chop and staining Syrah concentrate to oak land a knockout punch to the teeth, mouth and gums. The flagship $50+ equivalent to most South Australian Shiraz, this one is positioned middle of the pack for St. Hallett and is therefore impressive CVR** value for its full-on Barossa style.  91

St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2009, Barossa, South Australia Bottle

Howard Park Leston Shiraz 2005 (923565, $29.95) may come from vines beholden to the deep pockets of its founders but this is not exactly Napa dotcom milliionare playtime. “Members of the Australia wine trade aren’t precious about their wine. But they do love it.” This Leston (from a bonza vintage) spouts a fountain sluice of youthful Margaret River mint and tisserand scented red fruit. Muted middle earth note swings hypoteneuse through hoops and microeconomically bests McLarenVale and Barossa.  90

 

Quinta Do Crasto Old Vines Reserva 2004 (990572, $34.95) released through VINTAGES back in 2007 was juiced from upwards of 30 varietals from then 60-year old vines growing in schist soils. Firm framework, toast smokey, persistent cream and chocolate. Cherry-centered dark chocolate too. The newfangled Douro.  90

Notes on the May releases of 14 VINTAGES online wines.

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 2004 (093495, $49) of apricot, peach, citrus and chevre verging on Cendrillon is just that; funky and stinky. Love the petrol age though.  86

Davis Bynum Bynum Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 (0201580, $34.95) emits sweet beet and licorice hokum from the dehydrator. A xerophytic aroma keeps it grounded in its Russian River Valley home.  87

Château Latour à Pomerol (0133876, $89) may be a bit corky but I can still see the leaves for the forest. Hints at so much lithe, like leafy tobacco, damp earth, landes shavings and pickled berries. A cushioned launch TGV’s on espresso and toughens late with a firm grip. Give it 10 to 15.  93

Château Le Croix De Gay 2008 (136879, $39) whorls along crude, jangling lines like a Heavy D remake of Ms. Jean Knight’s big tune. La Croix has front and back stuffing in ’08 sandwiched around an 80’s, less than flattering and infundibular midriff.   88

Château Haut-Bergey 2008 (136648, $45) while uncombed and unbraided, is mouth filling and ultimately shows a bit of balance.  87

Tablas Creek Esprit De Beaucastel (735654, $45) may cause addiction due to sweet, sweet candy and mama’s marmalade. Consistent with my April 24th note: “The worthy adversary is just a dude from California. A honey pot of stewed prunes and “Seville oranges” notes the quote machine. A sinkhole of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 6% Cunoise, the Esprit does admirable expatriate yeoman’s work and I wouldn’t even think of marking it zero.  88

Casanova Di Neri Pietradonice 2007 (0103085, $79.00) from a master Brunello producer is a dark, dank, hefty and concentrated grunge effort. A brandied effect brings Vintage Port to mind. A meal not to leave hungry, from the mouths of decadence. Perhaps today Cornell and Vedder sip this seemingly evolved and enticing Super Tuscan.  92

De Bortoli Rococo Blanc de Blancs (0238014, $25) flashes some of the largest bubbles and that is not necessarily a good thing. Baroque, not so much. Late, yes. The chalk and talc do match a Roccoco-like creamy, pastel style but the wine is simple, not ornate.  May only “say its name in an empty room.”  86

Cooper Mountain Reserve Chardonnay 2009 (0232827, $22.95) gives orange peel, green apple and foil. Atomic number 16, Chardonnay pearls duettia and a Chablis (Fourchaume) fromage permeate this no toast radio Oregonian. A bit soft, but clean and certainly not oaked to a fault.  88

Château Chasse-Spleen 2008 (0134452, $44) has nearly peaked. The wine past its prime shines LED light. LED wines are so last year. The weald has wielded and waned, the caper and tobacco berries melded into molasses.  87

Château La Couspade 2008 (0229245, $72) of aromal Cassis, Panatela and CDP-like Kirsch is big on extraction for ’08.  Earth, wine and fire of a shining star. Just like meat in a stew. It’s got sustenance.  90

Château La Gaffelière 2008 (0136127, $84) my stars will be beautiful. Colour and potency but currently closed for business. Hidden purple perfume of Aubrietia, Lilac and Lavendar.  90

Château Malescot St-Exupéry 2008 (0137109, $64) never lets me down. “I feel my temperature rising” when a Malescot is on the table. Seamless wine showing a modified ’08 evolution. Noble as Bordeaux comes at this price. Terrific balance of forest, florals and ebon. The Malescot is always on the bus.  92

Fuligni Ginestreto Rosso di Montalcino 2009 (0245241, $24) is light, delicate and redolent Sangiovese. Impractically colourless to look at, the palate does the talking. Could drink this every day.  89

Good to go!