Dry-Rub Ribs. Photo Courtesy of Jill Chen at freestylefarm.ca and Barque Smokehouse
Long weekends have a built-in preference for the obvious. Get into the water, fire up the BBQ, indulge the palate, imbibe of good drink. Relax, chill, take advantage of the last free stretch before the race begins again. When shopping these next few days, here is your list of weekend wines.
The grape: Pinot Blanc
The history: Consummate Alsatian vin de table varietal
The lowdown: Peaceful, easy, loving and charitable white wine, just like the Knights of Malta order, represented on the label
The food match: Grilled Turkey Breast rubbed with sage, thyme and olive oil
André Blanck et Ses Fils Rosenburg Pinot Blanc 2011 (626606, $13.95) is your weekend summer refresher, your sundowner, your all-purpose white. Oily, mineral-driven, long, acidity at its PB best, full finish. For appetizers, salads and mains. Versatility be thy name. 88
The grape: Malbec
The history: Always and forever Argentina’s red darling
The lowdown: A three vineyard mix brings complexity to an entry level wine
The food match: Sirloin Shish Kebabs in red wine marinade
Monte Quieto Quieto 3 Malbec 2009 (275701, $14.95) is black and blue, slightly reductive and yet pretty for Mendoza. From three vineyard sources, Vista Flores, Ugarteche and Agrelo. Spice rub, orange zest and lit, wooden-scented stick. 87
The grape: Chenin Blanc
The history: Loire white horse, here sparkling and quite dry
The lowdown: Made in the traditional Champagne method at a fraction of the cost
The food match: Steamed Mussels with fennel, sparkling Chenin Blanc and tomato concassée
Domaine De Vaugondy Brut Vouvray (154567, $16.95) is brimming with orchard scents, of fruit, leaves and earth. A baking pear tarte tatine, with a crumble of chèvre over top. The pears replay to taste, verging into crème caramel. Top example at the price. 88
The grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
The history: Made with partially dried grape skins that have been left over from fermentation of Amarone or recioto
The lowdown: The best version I’ve tasted in 2012
The food match: Pasta Bolognese
Silvano Piacentini Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009 (289637, $16.95) combines semi-sweet chocolate with, of all things, ripe peaches. Very pretty, floral, sweet, candied Valpo with biting acidity and even some austerity. Best in a while. Needs a two year wait or a two hour decant. 89
The grape: Chardonnay
The history: H of P has been working this Burgundian grape in so many styles, from so many vineyards
The lowdown: From another up and coming Niagara appellation, the Short Hills Bench
The food match: Grilled Halibut with olive oil, garlic, fresh thyme and lemon emulsion drizzle
Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2010 (268342, $19.95) is the best one yet. Some A16 but in a breezy, over the falls, misty wash. Like Riesling in a way, especially considering the Bench minerality. Sweet, creamy palate. Good stuff. 88
The grape: Pinot Gris
The lowdown: Alsace comes to New Zealand in an off-dry suit
The lowdown: Continues a welcoming trend for PG in Marlborough on the South Island
The food match: Grilled Rainbow Trout with mild chile-lime dusting
Momo Pinot Gris 2011 (163535, $19.95) is a freshly opened can of spiced nuts. Like the unavoidable Loire itself, a river of Kiwi off-dry sensibility meets an Aussie Semillon, lemon and paraffin quality. A unique white for food. 88
The grape: Malbec
The history: Argentina’s red horse in fine form
The lowdown: Mendoza at its finest under $20
The food match: Rotisserie Grill Standing Beef Rib Roast
Vistalba Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserva Malbec 2009 (279802, $19.95) shows no shortage of oak, extraction and modern ego. The most purple of Malbec and at 15% abv is remarkably not heavy or liqourfied. Very black cherry in flavour, with whiffs of spice and smoke. Gorgeous Napa-like texture and voluminous velocity. 90
The Semi-Splurge
The grape: Zinfandel
The history: Where once it played last fiddle to virtually all other California varietals, it’s planting and notoriety are speedily increasing
The lowdown: A Shelton Zin from a newer AVA so priced to sell
The food match: Dry-Rub (with extra herbs) Baby Back Ribs glazed with Ancho Chile BBQ Sauce
Carol Shelton Monga Zin Old Vine Zinfandel 2008 (282525, $26.95) of a single (Lopez) vineyard, “an only pawn in the game of life.” is intensely herbal of the wise-leaved kind. The Cucamonga Valley brings more blazing brush floor, saddle leather and less bramble to Zinfandel. The extraction is of big body and soft heart. Have a cigar. “They’re gonna love you.” 90
Other wines of note:
Château Cesseras Rouge 2008 (590570, $19.95) is a Minervois from the Midi that I return to in every vintage. A poster child for southern French pastis and sun-kissed abaisser attitude. Chocolate, fruit and tar are all in balanced clarity. Sweet, sweet, Syrah. 89
Riserva Il Falcone 2007 (177295, $21.95) by one of Umbria’s preeminent producers, Castel del Monte is certainly a crowd pleaser. Lush and rich styling, from the region’s own Uva de Troia varietal. Ripe, black olives in every sip. Taut and plummy, unctuous and finishing with a pepper kick. 89
Good to go!
Godello 