Presenting the Pieve of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Anteprima Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve presentation in the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

On May 26th, 2025 Godello was honoured and indeed privileged to act as messenger to present the Vino Nobile wines of Tuscany’s Montepulciano to a full house at Toronto’s Aria Ristorante. A Nobile event of this scope is a big deal and it’s important to mention the people in Montepulciano who were largely responsible for making this tasting happen.

Masterclass

That would be the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano President Andrea Rossi and Silvia Loriga who is the Communication and Event Manager. Anyone who knows her is quite aware of just how much she does for Montepulciano. We were all overjoyed that Andrea and Sylvia flew in from Italy to be here with us on that day. Their tireless contributions have played a large part in the evolution we have been seeing from the Vino Nobile over these last 10 years.

Montepulciano Area

Godello’s most recent trip to Montepulciano was just this past February when the weather was much fresher and accommodating than it has been here in Ontario as of late. After one of the tasting days he stepped out from Enoliteca and Consortium headquarters in the Fortezza di Montepulciano to take in the sunshine in the main square. Even though he’d walked the Piazza many times it’s just something you do because these are the moments captured that remind us just how special a place like Montepulciano really is.

Piazza Grande, Montepulciano

Godello’s personal history with the wines and the village of Montepulciano date back 38 years. In 1987 he was a student at the University of Siena and visited the area as part of his studies, returning again in 1990 and 1995. It was 30 years after that first connection was forged before he returned once again, this time during the February Anteprima of 2017. That edition was a special one because the powers that be at the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano thought to amass ten wines spanning four decades, pour and present them as a 50 year retrospective Montepulciano masterclass, launching with the Contucci 1967. The tasting was more than a stroke of regional genius. It was both a major risk to take and a gift of great generosity. There was no way of knowing how those early wines of DOC origin would show, or if in fact that any life would still be left in them.

Related – 50 years of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

50 years of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

While some examples expressed themselves with more spirit and vitality than others, any doubt cast on the structure of the Montepulciano sangiovese had been vehemently cast aside. At the time it was still fashionable to qualify the wines as prugnolo gentile but today we are comfortable to say sangiovese as an essential varietal distinction that encompasses the many clonal variations used. Sangiovese is the beating heart of Vino Nobile and by now well beyond reproach.

That event celebrated 50 years but the territory’s history obviously goes back much further. “The oldest documented reference to the wine of Montepulciano is from 789 in which the cleric Arnipert offered the church of San Silvestro or San Salvatore at Lanciniano on Monte Amiata a plot of land cultivated with vineyards in the estate of the castle of Policiano. Later, Repetti mentions a document in 1350 (in his “Historical and Geographical dictionary of Tuscany”) which drew up the terms for trade and exportation of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.”

“The Sixties brought a reawakening in winegrowing geared principally towards the production of Vino Nobile rather than Chianti. State and EU funds used by the wineries to convert their vineyards into conformity with the requirements of the DOC (1966), enabled new wineries to enter the market. Recognition of DOCG status came in 1980 and Vino Nobile began a new life.”

Back in 2017 in advance of the 50-year seminar the Annata 2014 and Riserva 2013 vintages were presented. The challenge of that time in history’s growing seasons showed the fortitude and persistence of Montepulciano’s producers. You can throw a difficult set of weather patterns at the Vino Nobile but you can’t break their spirit. The ’14s were different, that much is clear, but more than enough quality, firm grip and structure was available to send these wines well into the next decade. Look for ‘13s and ‘14s now – you will be surprised by their longevity. For the most part the ‘14s were a grounded bunch, the 2013 Riserva more of an elegant crew and as representatives of the multiplicity of sangiovese they are classic snowflakes, each different, as sangiovese always are. They are also wines that do not swing their arms, an indication of a secretiveness of character. Which smarted into contradiction a connection to the ten Vino Nobile wines in that 50 year study. It explained how exciting it was to spend time with them in 2017. This to say to all of you how special it will be to spend time with the wines you have in front of you today. And also looking 10-15 years forward. Even more so because the quality and diversity of Vino Nobile sangiovese have never been greater.

Contucci 1967

Contucci’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ’67 was produced during a significant year in world history. The first heart transplant, the Six-Day War, the Monterey Pop Festival, The World Exposition in Montreal, The first Super Bowl and the release of the Beatles’ Sgt. Peppers Lonely Heart Club Band. It was also the year Celtic beat Internazionale in the European Cup Final. Contucci’s Vino Nobile is from a time when there were maximum seven commercially organized producers in Montepulciano and only the second vintage as a denominational wine.

About the Boscarelli 1982 Godello wrote “The Boscarelli acts like a much younger Nobile, from an exceptional vintage and a producer way ahead of its time. The key is to decide which side of the evolutionary fence we’re on, closer to that 1967 from Contucci or to what is happening today. This may actually be the turning point for Vino Nobile because it really has one foot entrenched in each world.”

The Pieve

The Pieve Project marks a new era for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as a new classification system within the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

designed to emphasize terroir and regional identity.

This photogralh was taken in February while the President was conducting an on camera interview. It’s still worth wondering if the post production crew edited out Godello’s “mi scusi dottore. Posso?”

Consorzio President Andrea Rossi

Let’s lay out what the Pieve Project is all about:

– Why and how Pieve Project was developed

– The rules of Pieve Production

– The aim and ambitions of the Producers and Appellation

– The History of the Area

– The Geological Landscape

– The Evolution of Wine Expression across the different sub-zones

– The Future of Communicating the Pieve Project.

The Pieve initiative aligns Vino Nobile with other terroir-driven classifications like Chianti Classico UGAs, Barolo MGAs and Burgundy climats. This is really worth talking about. Yes it is true that the Pieve resembles these initiatives pursued by other denominations but for Vino Nobile the connection to heritage and religious history is undeniably strong. It also takes the most important aspects of each of those other three distinctions and combines them to create a strong and particular ownership for Montepulciano. In Italian we would say “proprio.” As with the Chianti Classico UGAs the Pieve develop strong inter-personal relationships between like-minded producers making wines form estate vineyards in close proximity to one another. Like the Barolo MGAs the whole of the territory is defined by two distinct terroirs with a line drawn between them. We will touch upon that in a moment. And like Burgundy’s Climats the lineage travels through geography-geology-topography-landscape-position-relief-aspect-exposure-slant-elevation-slope-soil-vegetation-weather-microclimate-humankind-heritage-history-tradition-knowhow and temperament. It all adds up to Pieve. In Burgundy each Climat is a place with its own microclimate and specific geological conditions which have been carefully marked out and named many centuries ago. But Climat must include the human interaction with the place. Each has its own story, produces wines with a distinct character and maintains its place in the hierarchy of crus. Again, Pieve, though time and the market will sort out the pecking order.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

In February the Pieve project was introduced for the first time in Montepulciano’s Sanctuary (or Tempio) of the Madonna di San Biagio. Developed over four years, the project enhances transparency, quality and consumer understanding of Montepulciano’s wines. The word Pieve comes from the Latin plebs, meaning “common people.” Historically that referred to rural parish churches in Tuscany which served as spiritual, social, and administrative centres. I Pievi were crucial in shaping Montepulciano’s cultural identity, dating back to the medieval era.

The new classification pays homage to these historical divisions, connecting wine to the centuries-old traditions of land and community.

Three Pillars of the Pieve Project

The classification is based on three core aspects that define Montepulciano’s terroir:

   1.  Historical Cadastral System (The Pievi)

The project follows historical territorial divisions, reinforcing regional identity.

   2.  Geology & Soil Composition

A mix of Pliocene marine-origin soils, Pleistocene sands, clay, and limestone defines the wines’ structure and aromatics.

   3. Landscape Morphology (Climate & Terrain)

Elevation (250-600m), exposure, and climate influence grape ripening and wine style.

The Consorzio organized a major tasting held to validate the Pieve Project featuring submissions from nearly all Pieve subzones to analyze distinct regional characteristics. Key Insights from the tasting evaluation confirmed that each Pieve expresses unique traits directly tied to its soil composition and growing conditions. Producers demonstrated the ability to craft wines with a clear sense of place, reinforcing the importance of terroir-driven winemaking.

This comes from having tasted nearly 30 examples in February and in my opinion when I assessed five Vino Nobile from the same Pieve a thread was certainly there. The characteristics shared between wines were less challenging to recognize than the sangiovese from Chianti Classico or Montalcino. This feature will be a great positive for the messaging of the Vino Nobile.

And so this leads to the Pieve Message:

That as keepers of the Pieve the Consortium will manage the rules to produce wines combining classicism with the contemporary Pieve Style.

   1. To the Producers this is an invitation to communicate the distinctiveness of the subzones.

   2. To the Journalists this is a way to understand and express the values of the territory, pushing towards continuous improvement.

   3. To the Wine Trade the chance to expand the reach of the appellation and cultivate global Pieve ambassadors.

   4. To The Local Montepulciano Community an opportunity to capitalize on the ways to develop the wine economy and tourism in the region.

We should all be looking forward to reading the manual assembled by Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi and American journalist Jessica Dupuy who have been tasked with delving deeply into the soils, geology, culture and tradition behind each. All of which will help us figure out what’s in our glass.

  1. Pliocene part with maritime sedimentation
  2. Pleistocene part with fluvial lacustrine sedimentation

 

Notice the arch that separates the two. Notice it’s like the line in Barolo that separates the Seravallian from The Tortonian terroirs

From May 2022, the Consortium of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is the first Consortium in Italy to be certified sustainable with 70 percent of wineries (over 60) having already invested in sustainability projects.

The 12 wines poured at the Masterclass

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022

This is the only 2022 tasted and when these wines arrive on our market they are truly from a five-star vintage and arguably the strongest lot of the last 10-15 years. The Gracciano Estate is one of the oldest wineries in the Montepulciano region. In the beginning of the 19th century, Gracciano was owned by the Svetoni family who built the Villa and created the Italian-style gardens that surround it. The property was inherited by the current owners, Marco, Vannozza and Galdina della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco, through their father Giorgio.

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

The estate dates back to 1962, founded in Cervognano by Egidio Corradi and is now at 63 years of production. It then passed into the hands of daughter Paola Corradi and her husband Ippolito De Ferrari. Then came Luca and Nicolò De Ferrari.

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

Fattoria Svetoni was commissioned by Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the 18th century and ended in the mid-19th century. In 1865 the Svetoni family began producing wine. Its 23 hectares of vineyards in Gracciano were acquired by Podere Rubino in 2017.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020

The current epoch began in 1996 with agronomist Luigi Pellegrino and his first vintage of Vino Nobile. His father Santo Pellegrino had started the estate in Cerliana with grandfather Luigi back in 1960.

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2021

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Sotto Casa 2020

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2020

On several occasions Godello has had the opportunity to taste the Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano sangiovese of Tuscany’s Carpineto winery with Antonio Michael Zaccheo Jr. Carpineto Appodati comprises five Tuscan estates; Dudda and Gaville in Greve in Chianti, Montepulciano, Montalcino and Gavorrano in Maremma. No less than 28 different wines are produced off of the five properties and while Dudda in the Chianti Classico appellation is the epicentre of the operation it is the storied Vino Nobile sangiovese from Montepulciano that have garnered the most international accolades.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cerliana 2021

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Founded in 1937, thanks to the initiative of 14 pioneering producers, it is the oldest wine growing and wine producing cooperative in Tuscany. For almost 80 years they have been a driving force in the region…almost single-handedly sustaining the DOC following the Second World War. Today it remains a cornerstone in the region…widely recognized as being a key promoter of Montepulciano wine, culture and tradition.

 

The following wines were tasted in Montepulciano, February 2025

Pieve

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

Once again the ancient place and Cantina Storiche of De’ Ricci takes on the newly defined Pieve distinction with, well true distinction. If 2022 seems to well with fruit concentration then 2023 takes the luxe sentiment one step further. Perhaps just because of its unresolved rebellious youth but this follow-up seems almost too deep in nature. Perhaps just a bit pressed and caught up in the revelry of the new UGA-esque notion but judgement can be reserved, at least in part to allow for another year of settling. No doubt a wine that should not be released this early – here is to planning for an assessment one year forward to find this wine in a more nurturing state.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

The Pieve work from one of Montepulciano’s most historical estates where a 3,000 year-old grotto houses the ancient cellars. One of 12 designated parishes, Ascianello, extending south from Badia and home to an identified terror of silty clay sediments overlying fine-grained sand. De’ Ricci’s “Classico” is so very Villages like pinot noir and the Pieve shows more like a Premier Cru because of its luxe concentration. The località meets frazione at the intersection of geography enhanced by the vortices of geology provides for this truly special sangiovese. Rolling with waves of varietal acidity that only Montepulciano can provide and even more succinctly as Ascianello. The definition of succulenza. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

The Pieve designation is Caggiole and the style that comes from that parish seems to be one of more density (in relative terms) with clay soils surely the origin. This would put Caggiole in a Santenay-like category, responsible for wines of weightier texture and fuller mouthfeel. Acidity does well though the pH feels higher and so salty protein would really aid and abet alongside. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

A second Caggiole design brings the clay into play for a Pieve-level Nobile sangiovese with weight affected by gravity. There is a low rumble to this sangiovee, a baritone effect and some oxidation already noted as being out of a warm and quicker to mature 2021. Drink up. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2022

There is more energy and intensity in the Caggiole from Poliziano but youth is surely involved in the determination and understanding of the feeling. The acidity is consistent with 2021 though this Pieve sangiovese just feels brighter and effusive in relation to that very promising sister. To be honest they are as close in age, style and sentiment as any consecutive Pieve wines and so the consistency of the house style is recognized, appreciated and celebrated. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

Poliziano’s Pieve is Caggiole, of tuff, clay, stone and Pliocene sands and while there is some weight to the 2021 it’s not fully affected by gravity. Not quite lithe and weightless but it does hover above the ground with a relative lightness of being. Indelible stamp of place and such ideal acidity will see this live as long as any of the entirety of the ‘21s. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Pieve Cerlina delivers a sound and solid sangiovese for Antico Colle with medium weight and density across its notes and mouthfeel. You can sense the sapidity in the fruity aromas, like minerals cut through stone and berry before transitioning to palate intensity. Truly black cherry flesh and stone, not quite, but edging to the typical bitter finish. A style for house and from place. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Bravo to the producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano because from the get go there are examples of one Pieve or another that show immediate commonalities. As here from Cerliana and its eponymous estate La Cerliana. Hard not to notice the thread from Antica Colle and through to Valdipiatta. Darker fruit, a mix of succulence and stone, from black cherry to minerals and back. A chalky tannin underneath finishes what adds up to a specific style, here more pressed and pronounced than the others, within and without the parish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

 

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2022

Of the three sangiovese tasted from the Pieve Cerliana it is Valdipiatta’s that is expressive of the most fruit and also restraint. Truly floral aromas are cut through by aggregate streaks that enhance without breaking the flow. Also a minor note of elevated volatility but this is a young, tannic and chalky (as per the Pieve) Nobile. Really needs time to settle in. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Serious acidity and a transference from tart to tang then back again with most of this Pieve’s personality defined by that aspect of its structure. A Cervognano of fullness, also in the tannin and in this case a well-pressed and extracted example. Just a bit over the top in that regard, with some austere moments and hard times in the tannin. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

From the Pieve Cervognano where what feel like the darkest red through black fruit sangiovese rising and come to the fore. A crisp, crunchy and bears repeating croccante iteration with the black cherry flesh and stone so dominant throughout its character. Another pressed and here also woody Vino Nobile needing time to get to its intended destination. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

While other Pieve-designate Vino Nobile from Cervognano reside at the darker fruit end of the spectrum it is this by Le Bèrne that dials it back a couple of notches with noted levels of restraint. A longer and softer maceration must be the reason, perhaps as long as 60 days and that is the impetus to abide by this specialize terroir. A solid composition categorized as proverbially elegant and it translates unequivocally into this sangiovese of mind-bending intensity. The push-pull posit tug between salinity and sapidity is doubly and dubiously palpable, at once filling the mouth with elements and then conversely minerals. The age-worthiness of this 2021 will be as long as any in the parish and indeed the appellation. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

A true blue mouthful of Cervognano intensity with dark fruit yet smartly held back just enough as far as pressing is concerned. The team is smart, savvy and in a short time has already begun to learn the nuances of the parish. A professional wine in every regard, high in acidity, serious of tannin and something to be regarded as a Nobile that will see through to its longevity. An auspicious and impressive entry to be sure. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Full and substantial, of maximum fruit set upon a traditional and classic frame. Far less austere and tannic than expected which suggests the estate wished to do something modern with their Pieve Nobile. Gracciano is the origin and if this is any indication the parish is one to produce straightforward and luxe fruited sangiovese. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2021

The eponymous estate for the Gracciano Pieve follows suit with as much aromatic waft and palate coating fruit as any in all of Montepulciano. A sangiovese that mixes the reds, blues and blacks for a stirring rendition to bring great flavour and texture upon the palate. Not the most tannic or structured example in this view and one to drink ahead of the rest. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2022

Slightly problematic nose on the Pieve Gracciano 2022 with more than a mere note of Brettanomyces. Plenty of substantial fruit as per the parish but the microbes are a distraction and carry over to the palate, The tannins are rendered brittle and the wine fades away.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Le Grazie 2021

Another Pieve in delivery of Vino Nobile as a dark and handsome sangiovese, this being Le Grazie, with thanks to its soil and climate. Good fortune smiles on this by Taloso because acidity and backbone are equal to the task, to exult that fruit and result in a big yet balanced wine. Impressive stature and potential indeed. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Palazzo Comunale, Montepulciano

Le Bertille Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve San Biagio 2021

First bottle TCA. Second is sound. Now from Pieve San Biagio, one of 12 Montepulciano parishes delineated, designed and delivered for identified styles of sangiovese. Or that is at least the hope, idea and plan to present 12 different expressions that speak of their origins. There is a skin muskiness that speaks to both maceration style and time, but also the soil it would seem. Also a late mustiness noted, not to the point of total distraction and certainly not egregious but the wine is not perfectly clean. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

High tonality and acidity combine for a specific style of Vino Nobile, here from the Pieve of Sant’Albino. These are lighter sangiovese with an eye to the sky and mixed feelings, from brightness and lightning. Also (and clearly) a house style, dusty, excitable and high flying, notably marked by Balsamico and ready for action. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2022

A repetition of estate style runs from 2021 through to this 2022 though the fruit quality and quantity is undoubtedly higher this time around. More extraction and what feels like longer hang time which brings about some early maturity, even in the face and with thanks to seriously high and spicy acidity. Again it’s a factor of place but also house. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

Moving on to the next parish, that being Pieve Sant’Ilario and a Vino Nobile of powerful restraint. Somewhat reserved and demure but still you can’t help note the tannic intensity in all its seriousness plus austerity. Drying with herbals and all the Macchia Mediterranea meets barrel that could be captured in a bottle of Montepulciano sangiovese. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2022

As far as the Nobile from Pieve Sant’Ilario are concerned it is this 2022 that is expressive of the darkest set of fruit. A black cherry cut by mineral stone that bears resemblance to the Pieve wines of Cervognano. Yet different because there is a lack of finishing bitterness. This goes in a another direction, acting smooth and gelid, almost metallic at the finish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2021

The continuity already threads from one Pieve Sant’Ilario to another with sangiovese marked by their high intensity matched by proper restraint. They just don’t seem to give too much away too soon. Still they accumulate fruit, mineral and muskiness noted on the palate, juicy and succulent, without high glycerol and in this case a natural if not entirely spic and span profile. No matter and some will surely note the rusticity while others, will like it all the same. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

From a storied estate with holdings in more than one parish, in this case Pieve Sant’Ilario where the dichotomies between aromas and flavours are duly noted. Restraint followed by a deep wheeling of musky churned fruit, first one and then the other. The old cellar does bring old school style and austerity, more so than others and of their two Pieve Nobile tasted this is the charming Vecchia. Hard not to be seduced by its ancient grace and charm. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2021

Pieve Valardegna brings a whole new or ulterior set of Vino Nobile parameters to the table. Il Molinaccio’s is less austere, more modern and gainfully expressive of style. Not exactly luxe or rich but certifiably ample and beautifully balanced, if not a high acid sangiovese style. Stay with this wine for some time and you will realize the structure is more pronounced than at first thought, which tells us the wine will live well and long. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Godiolo Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2023

A different expression for Pieve designate Montepulciano altogether, here light and with a feel of carbonic maceration. It’s a lovely, glou-glou style of sangovese, fresh and spirited but one will wonder how it stacks up as a representation of a specific Pieve. A touch reductive, feeling like an unfinished sample with time the reality holding its meaning for what will eventually be revealed.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valiano 2021

The only example of Pieve Valiano presented is this quite composed and restrained sangiovese. Floral to a degree and kinder as well but fruit is of highest importance. Not particularly structured as a result or more to the point a factor of style and so drink this early to gain entry into and make some sense of the Pieve ideal. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vino Nobile 2022

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Should the wish to experience Vino Nobile and 2022 in the way nature and climate would ask of you, well then take this right proper sangiovese as the wine to try. Luxe as fruit could be and though more site specific wines will surely elevate the game, with this Nobile there is no drop off in terms of a classico level wine. Wood is perfectly judged so that the braid of acidity and tannin do what is necessary and more importantly what is just. Giusto Vino Nobile, compact and structured with the potential to soften, unwind and release for a promising future. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High-toned and snappy, lighting red fruit heavy in citrus and matched by the grippy determination from wood. Pomegranate and corbezzolo with spices run amok. A bit awkward at this stage, of an older school in style and a sangiovese surely needing time. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pagliareto 2022

Dark fruit, dusty, Balsamico and edgy. A touch higher in VA than what should be necessary and yet you can feel terroir in this sangiovese. Also some overripe moments which means you do need to drink this Nobile sooner rather than later. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A most unique if unusual aromatic style for 2022 Nobile. Floral while expressive of a mix between white and dark chocolate. Not so common for the nose of a sangiovese and the flavours follow suit. Tia Maria but also foxy and just lacking truth, or pleasure.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Lamberto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Well ripened and also pressed fruit brings the florals, minerals and volatile notes to the fore. A full and substantial entry that is nothing if not impressive. The continuation takes the wine to another level and it sails comfortably through a soft, creamy and modern lactic sea. The wood is very much a part of the character but it’s done well and integrates with ease. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG La Spinosa 2022

There are two styles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that express a vintage, one being the luxe and concentrated sangiovese of darker fruit and then there is this. Lighter and transparent yet certain not lacking in its own kind of concentration, or character. The purity, honesty and beauty of sangiovese is real and frankly also seductive. The integration of elements puts this in a great state for a wine that will drink with grace and makes some dreams come true. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Not the easiest vintage to capture all the available florals but such is the case with this aromatic 2022. The garden in all its blooming glory and who could not be seduced by the beauty. Nor is it a fleeting moment because the palate seems to experience more of that seduction and acids follow suit. No relent right through to a finish that lingers, wrapped around fingers and hearts. Well that was something. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bertille Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High tonality, in other words a string of volatile compounds strong and in command. Tart and then tannic with a hard shell so very tough to crack. Give time as requested though the bitter finish with a shot of espresso tells the barrel story. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG “Arya” 2022

A Nobile more taut and closed than most from 2022, more like vintages past, say 2016 for example. A fortressed sangiovese surrounded by a wall of structural construct that will not open unless time is granted. Just feels like a wine coming from warm days and cool nights, tart in just the correct way, fruit hidden yet aching to be set free. There is great potential in this Vino Nobile. Great potential. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Linea Redi 2022

A sangiovese of place where the evergreen and brushy flora predominate the landscape for a Nobile of vertu Macchia Mediterranea style. A sangiovese that simply can’t help be savoury, expressive of its Balsamico, but also taut and austere. These are the combined effects of terroir, old wood and a warm vintage. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2022

Au contrast and contraire with Vino Nobile ushered into the modernity of today for all the fruit that money can raise, determine and buy. Lush and luxe with all the advantages of a warm vintage extracted and effected. Crisp acidity, exterior crunch and interior chew. Soft and creamy in that way, like black plums swimming in a single syrup of merlot. An amazingly professional Vino Nobile, just about ready to roll and solid as a rock. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vannutelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Signore del Greppo 2022

Highest of volatile tones dominate the aromas and admonish the fruit. A mix of verbena and ribena, pine evergreen and then wood. Lots of wood. Too much wood, finishing at lavender and vanilla extract. As if by French wood. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A mix of fruit, part fleshy and part desiccated to indicate multiple harvest passes before, at and after the optimum moment. Combines to create a layered Nobile of true Nobile sangiovese-ness. Tart and tannic, within reason on both fronts and well made if a bit rambling and rustic. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

There are some Vino Nobile houses that just know what’s what, have figured out the formula and get things correct out of every season. That is to say the wine that is made is a true reflection of vintage with this Poliziano being the answer to a warm and developed 2022. All parts are captured, preserved and presented at peak. Fruit is musky floral and effusive, acidity sweet and energizing, tannins there with just enough grip to see the wine age well for five, seven, potentially even eight years. Where or what could be the argument against such a total declaration? Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Alboreto 2022

Hard to find a Nobile with more upfront fruit in all its naturally sweet wonder as here with a fortuitously ripe sangiovese. Acids are on the soft yet supportive side to match the semi-tart berries stride for stride. Truly like a bowl of summer fruit picked at just the right time and left to macerate in its own juices. Plenty of immediate gratification on order here. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truly floral and expressive sangiovese at the heart and core of what Nobile is meant to be. More than just style to emulate but something intrinsic, of value and restraint while maintaining heritage, loyalty and composure. Ripe and supportive acids keep fruit buoyed and presented to please. Just enough fine tannin will see to a wine capable of aging more than ten years. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

What could be considered a “Villages” example from vineyards located within the local parish of Gracciano, home to its most famous tenant at Della Seta. Crunchy sangiovese in every way, coolly herbal and focused. Though expressive of a learned maturity this ’23 is not quite settled, aching and edgy for now, a year away from drinking the way it was clearly intended.  Last tasted March 2025

Knowable Vino Nobile style, expression and effect. A child of a warm season, developed through experience, already showing its maturity and ready to please. A concept that depicts character seen and tasted many times, repeated here for a sangiovese that has already arrived at its destination. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Earthy, terroir-driven and chewy sangiovese, old-school, woody and rustic. Substantial concentration with the barrel effect doubling down and the end result being a Nobile of hard tannic qualities. Somewhat overdone and challenging. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio Alla Sala Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Above average grip in the aromas suggestive of a sapid sangiovese built on botanicals and an Amaro-like tonic. Good richness and concentration, sweet acidity and well-developed texture to cause the wine to coat the palate. Pleasant and lingering, never abandoning its cause to result in a truly positive effect. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Santa Caterina 2022

Correct, of dried petals in rosewater and a pomegranate to currant fruit style. Well-pressed, neither too light nor to dark, not soft, nor hard but somewhere safely in between. Solid construct predicated on acidity over tannin for mid-term aging ability. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truth delivered through an estate’s particular Balsamico for a Nobile with an extra layer of volatile acidity, caught at a moment within reason if just a shade higher than the wine would wish it were found to be. Just a shade overripe as well with fruit already showing some prune matched awkwardly by the acidity noted at the first. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Floral, effusive and expressive, of a light-handed touch in the face of a warm vintage. Surely harvested at peak with the savvy of knowing and then capturing the right moment ahead of a potential turn towards the overripe. Acidity preserved as well and well suited to ready for drinking. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Macchione Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

A year forward and a return to the great Nobile vintage for which time has begun to do what’s needed to soften a sangiovese. Plenty of wood on this 2021 now melting and integrating for readying the wine. With aeration you could consider drinking ’21 right here and now and because the amplitude and texture are so fine you might see no reason to wait another day. That said another year will really bring this Macchione into a great place. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Sharp red fruit though now relaxed a bit because of the extra year in bottle. Fruit shed tannic oppression and next level of concentration to represent the appellation with proper distinction. Like a bowl of fresh berries with acidity present though never intrusive. Tannins having resolved mean these next two-plus years will be joyous. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pasiteo 2021

The decision to hold back this Vino Nobile was a wise one because bigger bones made the requiem a necessity to unleash expressive character. Then again the fruit would have been just that much fresher six months ago, but the structure and wood would have both been greater distractions. Now together the union is simpatico though the window won’t stay open long, not before secondary character arriving unabated. Drink up because the chocolate and coffee will only get stronger. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Villa S. Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

The extra year off aging has not done this sangiovese any favours with its decline arriving soon and coming on fast. Acidity and tannin are still present but the fruit is oxidizing as we taste and speak.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Old-school does not begin to describe this wine of the ancients. Volatility thy name is sangiovese while oxidation and sweet fruit get together for a very specific type of Vino Nobile charm. No doubt the sort of Montepulciano sangiovese you have to take time to get to know. You may (or may not) be seduced. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Casa Vinicola Triacca – Fattoria Santavenere Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Santavenere 2020

Here comes the saint, the patron of Vino Nobile that looks out over sangiovese and expresses the local literati of the variety in this ultra specific way. That would be to age longer in wood and release the wine later than some other eager estates. A creamy and soft sangiovese results though one that feels like it could be imagined as being augmented by a grape such as merlot. Not really but you get the drift. Ready to go. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Dark fruit, hung longer than some to concentrate sugars and create this naturally sweet, soft, plummy and full-flavoured Nobile. A good and proper construct, not particularly grippy or tannic and certainly not drying at the end. Still has some quality life left to live. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2019

The smell of red crayon and wood all over the aromatics. Taut, tart, brittle, hard and drying tannins. Bit of a dirty wine.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Selezione

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna d’Alfiero 2022

Vegan-designate Vino Nobile and to no surprise a luxe and concentrated, elevated and characterized example. Exaggerates fruit and acidity, treads towards near dangerous territory and yet the amount of fruit available on hand stands up to the volatility. Equips the wine with the sure-fire ability to travel, age and drink in a good way some years ahead. The tannins are currently grippy, austere and drying but they will soften, negotiate and dissipate. Wait three years. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Tenuta Vallocaia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG I Quadri 2022

The exaggeration of concentrated rusticity and sweet acidity get together for a most interesting example of Vigna Vino Nobile. A single vineyard expression where solar radiation develops fruit and its associated compounds for a chewy and musky sangiovese. A good wine, not particulate complex but well made and prepared to drink this way for up to five years. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigneto Santa Pia 2021

A Vino Nobile of a single vineyard or selection and there can be no doubt this comes from a very Mediterranean place. Macchia notes dominate the aromas, of hillside tea, rosemary and even an olive tapenade. That said the wine is not entirely clean as confirmed by the brittle and hard tannins. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Soraldo 2020

Somewhat luxurious sangiovese though on the naturally fruit sweet and sour heart side of things to express Vino Nobile in a particular way. Not exactly tart and no oxidation has crept in from this unique expression. Length is good and the wine’s linger is a positive one. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna Scianello 2020

Single vineyard Vino Nobile, still quite tannic and yet to advance beyond its structured beginnings. There is a slight oxidative lean on the nose yet the wine stays linear, upright and sturdy. Still plenty of barrel to shed, melt and integrate should the fruit this wish to allow. Dries out at the finish though not without some developing character and complexity. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Mulinvecchio 2020

A mix of red fruit, waxy crayon and raw dough on the nose for a confounding start to this sangiovese. Some grace and charm no doubt but also a level of volatility that may be distracting but surely this is the house style. No missing the substance, character, complexity and experience. As a Selezione this shines for the appellation and the future is bright, while also long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano

Icario Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sansasìa 2019

Problematic – volatile and woody to an uncomfortable degree. Faulted example – Brettanomyces taking over the palate and the tannins.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigne Vecchie di Famiglia 2019

Old vines make for sangiovese of high-level concentration and when the structural parts follow suit then here you have a Vino Nobile of great promise. Such is the case with this luxe, fleshy and at times severely tannic example but this shall pass and all with come to act and be together as one. Top quality and effect for 2019 and a wine that should live very well into the next decade. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Antica Chiusina 2019

Red fruit tang like few others and a level of volatility edging upwards towards the threshold of acceptance, but also understanding, Treads figuratively and hangs in the balance but there is no doubt that the concentration puts this in Selezione territory. Softens towards the back of the palate and calms right down. Needs food to tame the early distraction. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Montemercurio Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Damo 2016

A maturing and resolved sangiovese that has seen its share of wood and gentle oxidation to arrive at this stage of its tenure. A Selezione of ample substance and chewy texture, some drying tannin and with air some airing in a decanter the wine should be ready to go. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Poggio S.Enrico 2015

Here now a lovey settled and mature sangiovese with its dusty Balsamico character aged into a secondary state of grace. A Vino Nobile in Selezione form now caught in a tidy place with all its parts having come together. Chocolate all over the finish which speaks to the heavy use of wood but this has come to be a lovely drop. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Riserva

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

Added layers and extra concentration define the aromatic proposal of a Riserva that to a producer is from la crème de la crème of Vino Nobile vintages. An ideal time to declare, select, age and bottle Riserva for the ages. This because of unlimited potential qualified by fruit substance, ideal acids and finest tannins drawn from the soils and success of a season. The balance and expressive character are simply tops. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Ojas 2021

High level expressiveness delivers fruits studded by herbs and spice but also wood with trenchant intention. Dark Riserva for Vino Nobile and the concentration works to a degree. With thanks to the proper structure of the wine it is the generosity of maceration and pressing that result in a rich and layered sangiovese of depth and deep colour. Will turn to truffle and earth before too long. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Quercione 2021

A reductive example of Vino Nobile Riserva but also one with an evergreen character in its aromas. This is followed by palate sweetness in a creamy, wood effected style. A bit gratuitous and sappy in the end. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

In a similar vein and style expressed by the estate’s ’22 Vino Nobile there is this undeniable connection to Riserva ’21. From a set of vineyards from which a selection of Riserva quality grapes, but even more importantly the kind of bunches that represent this appellation. Though the ’21 Riserva is blessed with veritable concentration it also delivers the minerals out of the diamonds in the rough and the structure to age as it should. Well thought out, considered, put together and consummated. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

An incredible concentration of an estate’s climatic Mediterranean experience transcribed as Balsamico of località to define Vino Nobile as Riserva. Luxe of dark fruit, espresso and the cask’s effect brings a seasoning of liquid to fill the cracks. Professional extrovert of a sangiovese for mid-term drinking, or longer term if you wish for secondary and even tertiary character. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

TCA. The top two wines for Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta are the newly minted “Pieve” label, a sangiovese that represents the parish of origin, one of twelve in Montepulciano, in this case Gracciano for which this estate is both pioneer and leader. The other is this Riserva, not a question of better or more important but instead a matter of using highest quality fruit in the representative way for an historic level of appellation. Using a highly touted vintage is key but again of greater importance is an estate’s view of what they are working with in any given year. A previously tasted sound bottle of this 2021 revealed a sangiovese stimulant, stellar and seductive, with fruit and acidity intertwined in a layering so rich it feeds the palate with a fullness not seen in the other wines. More wood as well, yet to integrate and so potential is high.  Last tasted March 2025

Relatively high-toned Vino Nobile, especially within the idiom at Riserva level and yet the wine feels just a bit hard to get Not a closed nose but just the slightest apprehension to open. The palate is more generous and giving, fruit sweeter and creamy, easy to assimilate and enjoy. Dark sangiovese, yet joyous and abiding. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Vallocaia 2021

Quite a sweet set of aromas, rose floral, Ribena and effusive. Nothing dark or dangerous about this sangiovese, but rather a full and substantial concentration of red fruit with a connection between its constituent parts. Sneaky tannins come late and take charge with their grippy and austere notion. This is definitely the sort of Riserva you need to stay with, give time to release and better yet wait three years to allow for a coming together. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2021

Truly similar and connected with the Tenuta’s ’22 Vino Nobile, of dark and luxe fruit caught at optimum ripeness and translated into a silky smooth elixir. A sangiovese that could only come from Montepulciano and more specifically this part of the region. Über professional work and surprisingly tannic which means the aging potential is quite good. Truffle, fungi and a reduction of Tuscan terroir, a.k.a, Balsamico are not far away. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

If at first there seems to be a sense of oxidation and a density that obfuscates what charm there should be – do not fear the worst. Things brighten on the palate with a richness of fruit mixed with wood thick as thieves for good times in juicy sangiovese. Continues to improvce as it rests and the best feels yet to come. In the end we get this seriously structured Vino Nobile as Riserva that will change, morph and improve with further age. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Simposio 2020

Red fruit and florals, simple and effective, not particularly fleshy or substantial. Easy and ready, willing to please and time to get onside. Drink away. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

Experienced, dare it be said antediluvian style of Vino Nobile expression. Taut and tart, an intensity not always noted and time still needed to soften the construction. Not a big wine per se but a tight one, spiced and not yet forgiving. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2016

A tired and oxidative Vino Nobile with acidity still flying high but fruit getting into raisin territory. There would have been pleasure two years ago but the time has past. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

A visit at Salcheto

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosato IGT

The only Rosé in production is called Obvius, bottled without sulphites, made from sangiovese with (10 percent combined) canaiolo, mammolo and merlot. Just steel and not produced in every vintage, this being the latter stages of 2020 still being on the market and with 2022 coming next. The cleanest Rosato in this style possible, mimicking an Orange wine without ever being one, but natural it is and natural it acts. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Explosive fruit from the 2020 Obvius as Rosso in the series’ natural form, by design and of trenchant intention. As with the Rosato and Bianco these are all free thinking, formed and flowing wines of definition and purpose. Rosso joins the colloquy to take part in the re-writing of relationships between grapes and denomination. In Montepulciano the various forms of DOCG (Annata, Riserva, Selezione and Pieve) take care of the yeoman work and Obvius by Salcheto alters the conversation. Seems to be the point and Rosso makes a real statement. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Just sangiovese aged up to four years, split between cask and bottle, this being the vintage at the end of its run currently on the market. Wild of ferment and style, rich of texture and just that devilishly dangerous hint of game that speaks to the how and why, but also the what in terms of food pairing. The small deer of Tuscany done up in Ragù come to mind. Vino Nobile is almost never quite like this, predicated on texture and mystery that peaks curiosity, all the while there is wonder about how it came to be this way. Now softening from a vintage specific to Montepulciano where acidity was not all that exceptional. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vecchie Viti del Salcò 2018

The signature sangiovese and only made in select vintages from the oldest vines on the estate in vineyards surrounding the cellar. Notably concentrated and with that feeling of a Nobile at the height of experience. Silky, creamy and smooth and still toned. To be honest this is the kind of Vino Nobile that leads a style to be found out of the parish of Le Grazie. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò 2017

From the oldest vineyards up to 35 years of age located around the cantina, 100 percent sangiovese with a minimum aging of five years in 400L tonneaux plus three in bottle. From a certified hot vintage and now into its late years of primary maturity with secondary notes are on arrival. Violets on the nose, mulberry and faux mocha with flavours ranging, rising an falling into soft textures, creamy and settled on the palate. A sangiovese of experience, charm and grace though things will change again before too long. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Toscano Vino Biologico 2013

A sangiovese from another era out of a less than usual vintage and the result being a maturity matched by an acidity surely specific to that season. Secondary notes have fully arrived, of Bokser pod, carob and leathery plum. Not a particularly Balsamico vintage but more so fruit and what feels like saffron. A bit of botrytis perhaps? Or not, though fig and liquorice too are all over the palate and the wine is, or at least was not too long ago surely seductive. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò Evoluzione 2006

Remarkable longevity from a 2006 as a sangiovese coming from 18-plus years ago and with thanks to top quality vintage acidity. Sparks fly from the palate on this signature Vino Nobile in reference to the stream that flows around the valley and the willow trees that populate the terroir. Wow factor impression delivered from a wine designed in another era so persistent and a season for which the scent of Macchia Mediterranea is so pronounced. Some tannin still alive will allow this to stay focused for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025.

Good to go!

godello

Anteprima Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve presentation in the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

 

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Chianti Classico Collection 2025 part two: The visits

Critics and journalists can get their fill by attending wine events in their home city, taste wines at the office space or in the comfort of their homes. This type of work situation has been a standard for decades and sure there are moments when just the writer and the bottle together can combine to produce some solid prose – but it’s not enough. To go further, to find the goods and get at the heart of the matter it is essential to travel, to visit with families and wine producers in their element. Climb hills, walk vineyards, get mud on your boots, touch vines, consider pruning decisions, crumble soils between the fingers. This is where the real stories come from, magnified in purpose when visits involve sitting down for a meal. Godello has been doing this with Chianti Classico producers consistently for the past 10 years and that is how he is able to write on this very subject without pause and about more than just the wines. People, roots, heritage and land are the impetus and catalyst for how the big picture is revealed.

Related – Report and reviews from the 2025 Chianti Classico Collection

Twenty trips and 52 articles based on more than 300 visits with 100-plus producers later and here we are with the latest set of wine reviews covering 10 visits made at estates producing Chianti Classico wines. Tenuta Casenuove (Panzano), Castello di Meleto (Gaiole), Poggerino (Radda), Calcamura (San Casciano), Il Poggiolino (San Donato in Poggio), Richiari Porciglia (Greve), Poggio Torselli (San Casciano), Fontodi (Panzano), Volpaia (Radda), Ricasoli (Gaiole), Nardi Viticoltori (Castellina), Castello di Verrazzano (Montefioralle), Castello di Ama (Gaiole) and also tasted in Montalcino, the small production wines of Baciate Me (San Casciano). An apology goes out to Castelnuovo Berardenga, Lamole and Vagliagli for being the UGA left out this time, although they have all been the focus of many previous excursions and will again soon. These are the 92 wines tasted with the 13 estates back in February of this year.

Related – Harvest report 2024: Retro Chianti Classico

Related – 100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

L’aia at Tenute Casenuove

Tenuta Casenuove – Panzano

Out of Firenze’s Peretola Airport and direct to Panzano for a long overdue visit with winery director Alessandro Fonseca, enologist Cosimo Casini and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Under the ownership of Philippe Austruy, 35 hectares are at elevation between 370 to 490 metres. Previously owned by Chianti Classico négoce Pietro Pandolfini from 1954-2015. We stood on the small stone square, “l’aia,” where the grain was once worked, looking south over the Pesa River, towards Castellina. In 2015 there were 15 hectares of vineyards, now doubled to 30, including a new site at the top on Alberese stone planted to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, malvasia and ciliegiolo. The top of the (east) ridge is a soil led by Pietraforte, the rest argilla and schist with a manifestation of compact, purple-veined Galestro. Identified vineyards are Poggio Asso, Vigna Somassa which comes from Arenaccio, an iron sandstone block, Vigna San Martino (fine decomposition of Galestro) and Vigna Camperi (calcareous clay).

Purple-veined Galestro of Tenuta Casenuove

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Another beautiful season, not at the beginning because of the April 7th frost which delayed development by a month – though in the end the wines showed with great balance. In part because of less bunches and bunch weight per plant but also because of a great September rain that followed a hot summer for the latest finish to harvest in recent times – September 25th. Everything in this wine moves in unison, all parts working together for a polished and luxe example of Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The vintage following that seminal 2019 marking a transition for Casenuove away from aging in small wood and making use of various larger format casks. Once again you get the feeling of highest level of extraction and here the most glycerol and silken texture to date. A warm vintage with 12 days exceeding 35 degrees to stress the vines, especially the young ones. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Here the new plantings began to be used in the Classico. The first vintage to represent the transformation away from Cordone Speronato to Guyot training resulting in bunches not as tight for a shot at the juiciest sangiovese expression to date. Tannins are still working with grip and force, acidity is high and the wine has a serious chewy quality as well. Also with thanks to Maria Sole in her second vintage in the capacity of managing the cellar. Tells Cosimo “you can see the transition, the new sensibility and the extraction level in the wines.” This certainly marks new territory and an understanding of the potential for the estate.  Last tasted February 2025.

Fruit quite mature of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, a focused expression and very much the warmest of (western) Panzano style. You can taste the Bordeaux grapes in here, with a Cassis for sure but also some desiccation of small berries. Minty and a cherry stone bitterness on the palate with drying tannins. Give an hour of air and drink over the next three years. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Plenty of rain, humidity and cooler temps and “it scared me,” admits Cosimo though the shift from humidity with the northeastern Tramontana wind brought about a great day for night temperature excursion. High solar radiation and cold nights at the end of September, especially here in Panzano created this truly unique set of harvest ripening circumstances. Feel the mix of ripenesses in both the fruit and acidity, the long-chained tannins and talons that hold on to your palate. Still acting this way six years later.  Last tasted February 2025

Fruit quite fresh for 2018 and in a way more so than the following 2019, here again from a consistent blend of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Juicy Panzano expression, ready and willing to please, tannins softening now and acidity captured with truth. Raspberry and blueberry, fruit captured at peak and here an Annata with silky tannins, everything in line and ready to roll.  Tasted February 2023

Crunchy Panzano Annata here from Tenuta Casenuove, peppered as opposed to peppery, as if with freckles or micro-sized bits of earth. Plenty of salt and pepper seasoning but again nothing sharp or spicy about it and fruit so very berry red.  Tasted March 2022

From the southwest corner of Greve in Chianti, southwest of Montefioralle and close to Panzano. Modish and modern for 21st century sangiovese is just this, stylish, chic and highly motivated. Quite fully developed and felt red fruit of glycerin, pectin and mouthfeel but you want more and more. Impressive magnitude in bringing so much fruit into the mix. Not overtly high in acid or tannin so use this early and often.  Drink 2020-2022. Tasted twice, February 2020

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2017, Panzano

The experience of 2015 and 2016 were critical towards dealing with the hot 2017 season, especially because the south by southwest expositions at Casenuove are what they call “a hot spot.” Yes you can feel the desiccation but the 80mm of rain that fell between September 4th and 8th really saved the day. As smart producers are want to do the harvest was delayed, started two weeks after the rain and continuing through to the 15th of October. Acidity is different and special though the fruit is now just starting to fall away. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Panzano

From 2016 all the blocks of the estate were now being vinified separately. The season began in a different way, first with a cool and humid Spring which delayed development by a month and then things sped up during the warm summer. Harvest began on Sept. 26th, finishing at the same time as 2015 which means just two and a half weeks for the same 13 hectares. A wine of more density and development than 2015 though still tannic and today maintaining an important level of freshness. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Panzano

First year of production under the new ownership of Philippe Austruy and Oenologist Cosimo Casini arrived in June just a few months after the acquisition. His grandmother was born in Panzano and so this was a true return to his roots. Very much a part of this first vintage that he describes as “almost too easy” which suggest he thinks some things were taken for granted. Harvest from September 12th to October 10th, 13 hectares in total. “But I’m waiting for a season like 2015 to happen again.”  Last tasted February 2025

The first vintage, 80 sangiovese with 15 merlot and 5 cabernet sauvignon. The sangiovese was raised in 25hL botti and the international grapes in tonneaux. Darker and deeper than the ’16 to come. Good acidity keeps it moving through the waves of vanilla and graphite. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted September 2019

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva at 100 percent sangiovese is a change from the Classico where smallest bits of colorino, canaiolo and merlot are involved. Riserva comes from a strict selection of the best part of estate vineyards where clay-schist soils spill over with iron-rich Galestro outcroppings. As in Panzano in all its glory for a true expression of Casenuove’s warm location. Creates this clean sangiovese of utmost clarity. Last tasted February 2025

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

The first vintage of Gran Selezione happened in 2018 after a cask tasting in the cellar where the team found something different from fruit taken out of a single vineyard. A place called Sopra Torre above the base of a hill up and away from the humidity at the lowest part, a place where the wind slashes through, and the exposition is pretty much perfect. Makes for the richest of all Casenuove sangiovese, longer in wood and you feel it but who feels it knows it.  Last tasted February 2025

Serious, experienced, structured and vertical example of Gran Selezione. Maturity of fruit but also layered acids and most impressively developed tannins. This walks with great stature, sure of its meaning and intent. As a Panzano sangiovese it knows exactly what it wants to be. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted October 2024

Castello di Meleto

Castello di Meleto – Gaiole

A studious and vigna intensive first visit with Victor Camilo Duque Crociani, GM Francesco Montalbano and agronomist Mattia Achenza. Gaiole’s famous Castello di Meleto has been a territorial guardian watchtower and fortress since 1256 with 1000 hectares, nearly 800 of which are forested. There are 130 hectares of vines in two località, Meleto and San Pietro, 80 percent planted to sangiovese, with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, trebbiano, malvasia and (0.5 ha) san colombano. The team has gone all in to isolate and exult the identified single vineyards, now with three Vigna labels; Trebbio, Poggioarso and Casi, the last one located on the road to Radda. Trebbio is collee, with red argilla soils. Poggioarso (the arid hill) is higher elevation with Alberese and outcroppings of Galestro out of the clay. Casi is in a ventilated zone with Galestro out of Macigno (sandstone) soils but it’s uniqueness comes from some alterations involving some Alberese and sandstone-based Pietraforte. The vines have been in transition since 2020 from Cordone to Guyot training, organic now for 10 years and largest such estate in the territory. Consulting oenologist and agronomist are Valentino Ciarla and Giacomo Sensi.

Castello di Meleto Método Classico

A traditional method sparkling that began 12 years ago. A spot of TCA on the first bottle. Only sangiovese, harvested early, usually late August, soft whole bunch pressed with minimal skin contact if just enough to give this Spumante a Rosé hue. Get the freshness and complexity. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Just five percent merlot softens the sangiovese with many vineyards of the 130 hectares in total contributing. Usually the youngest vines and also some of the plots that experience the warmest climate for the season. Ages 15 months, half in cement and half in large (really old) French cask. No tannic impart and this is about as correct, clean, acid retentive and well adjusted a Chianti Classico as you are want to find. Warm vintage yet freshness and fruit quality is knowably ripe and easy. Less savoury and more fruit centric than in years past.  Last tasted February 2025

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2024

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The first vintage where Riserva is certified organic, also with five percent merlot and fruit drawn from many areas of the estate, maximum two week maceration. Ages in large French cask (up to 500L) and plenty of fruit ripeness fills the mouth, with a local Balsamico specific to and expressive of a Meleto sangiovese. Clean and precise with all the attributes of Riserva in pocket from the finest mixing and matching of vineyard fruit as a true example of Chianti Classico assemblage. You can drink this anytime. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

For Gran Selezione there is only sangiovese taken from the most important identified blocks from which the three cru are made. These are the grapes not chosen from and for the Casi, Poggioarso and Trebbio ultra specific expressions. Sees 10 days of maceration post fermentation and like the other wines (Classico and Riserva) there is a silky smooth character to the Selezione. More concentration is what separates this from the others but also a refinement of the Balsamico, spice and herbals of the wine. Sapid to a good degree, almost ready to rock and the kind of sangiovese that will age slowly, incrementally and long. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggioarso 2020, Gaiole

The first vintage labeled as Poggioarso was 2017 and here for 2020 the vintage to launch with the UGA Gaiole on the label. Poggioarso is at the highest elevation, from 450-530m and the freshness matched by stony-mineral quality is truly high. The vineyard with the most temperature excursion, high solar radiation during the day and cold at night. Unique aromas that separate this cru from the others with a sulphur sensation that’s not sulphur. You can sense the sandstone derived mix of lime and Pietraforte that gives this mix of salinity and mineral flavour. It’s namely potassium and that is the unique perfume of Poggioarso. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Trebbio 2020, Gaiole

Trebbio is the new cru designation for Castello di Meleto, medium of elevation between 380 and 410m located to the northeast of the castle. A very clay soil with some Alberese (limestone) and Galestro. Also iron in the ground with red hues throughout the soils. More sanguine and sweeter notes, in the fruit and with spice. Only sees the largest (3000L) French casks and the Balsamico presence can’t be denied. More density and intensity here, bigger wine, stronger and with more grip. Older schooled in a sense yet the red fruit quality is dominant as well. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casi 2020, Gaiole

One of two Castello di Meleto cru artists that originally existed as Riserva. Elevation from 450 to 530m and a really concentrated sangiovese high in poly-phenolic character. A smoulder here with tobacco that comes from the interaction between grapes and wood, compounded by the longest maceration. The most tannic and without a doubt the most potential of the three. A serious wine, profound expression of the vineyard and the sort of Gran Selezione that will live through to the next decade. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted February 2025

With Piero Lanza – Poggerino

Poggerino – Radda

Piero Lanza has embarked on a shorter pruning window because of the warming climate and is now keeping more bunches on the vines (1.2 to 1.5 kg per plant), to slow down ripening and to result in balanced, juicy wines. “There are no rules, not any more.” For Lanza it has been a slow evolution, a step-by-step process. As for which artistic winemaking period he’s now in, with 20 years on his back he says “it’s been about 15 years that I’ve been doing things this way.” The 2024 vintage was challenging, like 2013 with heavy Spring rains which made it hard to get into the vineyard and then a warm March encouraged early budding, but thankfully no frost followed in April. Rains ended in early June with none until the 26th of August. Veraison started early but by the 15th of August the water table had dried up and the vines shut down. Rains came just before harvest, a good thing and yet it was necessary to remove leaves to reveal bunches and speed up ripening. More importantly to reduce humidity around the bunches. Lanza finished picking on the 14th of October and mould was everywhere. One day fine, the next not so much – sometimes just a mater of six hours. “The evolution of the grapes was changing hour by hour. It reminded me of the 1990s,” said Piero, “but the most challenging vintages make the best wines.”

Poggerino

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

The Perenospera (resulting in downy mildew) vintage but Piero Lanza only lost 10 percent of his production. Yes – he fared much better than many in the region. He remembers the 24th of June, at the time of the festival of San Giovanni in Florence. “I woke up on the 24th, a foggy morning, I went in the vineyard and everything was white. We sprayed and managed it.” The 2023 is only sangiovese, of 15 different clones and vineyards, a sweetly herbal example, oh so glycerin textured, holding more Bugialla (Riserva) fruit because none was made in 2023. Freshness from concrete aging mixes with wood spice for an easy drinking, balanced and well made Classico. Just recently bottled in December 2024. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

The 2022 has been in bottle just a little bit more than a year now and has settled comfortably into its Classico skin. Quite a warm year with high level fruit and more importantly phenolic development with less herbal and tobacco notes that come from the very young ’23. Concentration is higher and again the red fruit is everything. There is a chalky underbelly of tannin and despite the vintage heat you have to remember this is Radda and so freshness is still a guarantee. Piero Lanza tried to have great respect for the grapes by pressing easy and macerating short. As s result the wine will go long, not 2016 or 2021 long, but it will last. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2014, Radda

It’s incredible! The longevity of 2014 is justified and now solidified. Adds Piero Lanza, “the quality and balance between the acidity and phenolic (compounds) have allowed the wine to age,” and age so well.  Last tasted February 2025

The vines date back to 2004 and 1994 for Poggerino’s Chianti Classico, a 100 per cent sangiovese that sits at a zenith where the most red limestone earth and sour intensity is noted above all 14s almost anywhere, not just from Radda but for all of the territory. Almost over the top in this regard but stand up and counted is what this amounts to. Then it grooves forward and rebounds with warmth and depth before returning to that earthy calacari bonding. Gathers itself, the moving parts and glides along with solid length. Very interesting, honest, organic and naturally curated work from Piero Lanza. Drink 2018-2022.  Tasted September 2017

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2022, Radda

Nuovo is the new-ish Chianti Classico label, first made in 2013 as the sangiovese aged in concrete eggs. The 2022 is now one year in bottle and a manifestation of what Piero Lanza looks at “like being a chef in a fine dining restaurant.” That is to say trying a recipe 20 times before it is perfected. The roots came from Lambardier in Champagne where they aged their wines in eggs ahead of the secondary fermentation in bottle. In 2010 Piero put sangiovese in one empty egg after removing the previous wine intended for Sparkling Rosé and the experimentations began. Year two fibreglass fermentation and egg. Beginning in 2016 the fermentations happened in the new (5,000 and 8,000) concrete tanks then transferred to eggs in December. Ten years later there are 4,500 Nuovo bottles made and my how this sangiovese emits a very specific aroma. Certainly a matter of the natural swirl inside the concrete eggs but also a seriously oxygenated wine that shows no signs of oxidation. Feels like a wine of località hyperbole and says Lanza, “the egg increases the terroir.” This is the limit of quantity and yet more bottles would be a blessing. More terroir is expressed from egg in a warm vintage. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2021, Radda

A top vintage and a fortunate one for Poggerino where the prevailing frost in Chianti Classico did not affect this località. A warm yet temperate year with heat but nothing like 2017 and just a perfect season from which to put sangiovese into concrete eggs. “For me it was a fantastic vintage, normal but the big difference was September with great temperature fluctuations between day and night.” The result is top level Raddese acidity and finest quality in the tannins. No this is neither Riserva nor Gran Selezione but being the unique wine that it is – it could very well be a manifestation of the latter. But we won’t name that and so for now we’ll just call it Classico-plus.  Last tasted February 2025

One thing you can count on is for Piero Lanza’s sangiovese to come out ripe as any in the territory and 2021 would surely not be an exception to the rule. The fruit is remarkable and the structural parts equally formative and formidable so I’m not sure Lanza has made such a wine in quite some time. Years are needed to settle the pieces, parts and puzzles of this magnanimous affair. Don’t care that Annata is the appellation. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2023

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Bugialla 2021, Radda

First vintage of Bugialla as Riserva was 1990 though it was made as far back as 1985. Now labeled as Vigna Bugialla which puts this in cru territory and a wine that has come about after Piero Lanza’s 20 plus years of making wine, including many mistakes. It would be easy to simply think about the concentration but the true nature of Bugialla is the vineyard and its predilection for growing the finest Poggerino sangiovese. Quintessentially Raddese with the highest quality tannins available from the vineyard planted in 1994, surrounded by forests. Only the smallest and perfect bunches are chosen, like Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse for Diecianni and Luca Martini at San Giusto Rentennano for Percarlo. Aged in old Slavonian cask for two years, this 2021 is now in bottle just one year. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Bugialla 2019, Radda

Not a cool vintage but is was in September and so the finishing concentration is not quite, well let’s say 2021. Allows the Raddese Balsamico and herbal qualities to come out a bit more. Tons of character, very expressive and time in the bottle have allowed for this coming out party and makes one wonder how 2021 will show in time. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Andreita Rojas and Stefano Marinari – Calcamura

Calcamura – San Casciano

The semi-virtual winery co-owned by partners Andreita Rojas (from Chile) and Stefano Marinari, winemaker at Castello di Bossi. The two met in 2014 while working harvest abroad. Calcamura, a vineyard located between two poderi, Calcaorelli and Mura, both located on Via Mura. A conjunction of the two, as opposed to calling the brand “Stefandreita.” The località of their vineyard is Poggio ai Grilli over and down the hill from Villa Le Corti and sharing the same topography plus geology, that being the famous San Casciano river stone strewn vineyard reminiscent of Les Galets in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their’s is a 25 year-old, 0.5 hectare block owned by their immediate neighbour to the west with a second 6,000 square metre block rented since 2021. A third will be a 1.05 hectare plot, they will be certified organic (on their labels) as of 2024 are are still currently crushing in Radda at Istine.

River stone strewn vineyard at Calcamura

Calcamura Sussolto

Sussulto, as in “to gasp or being startled,” but in a good way. A reaction as if to say, “oh my God, I’ve been jolted by something.” Made from the first passage of 100 percent sangiovese Calcamura grapes picked in late August. The idea came from a dinner with friends, to use these grapes and never consider a green harvest. Quite a phenolic sparkling wine and also one of incredible richness. This is matched and balanced by the smoky mineral, rustic style and a light mushroom consommé. So unique and worthy of any sort of fizz detour you are willing to make. 4,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Now in the third vintage for Calcamura the aging is only in tonneaux, two Slavonian and one French. Only sangiovese from a vineyard in the middle of nowhere but a località called Poggio ai Grilli. Could that be the name of a coming Gran Selezione for Stefano and Andreita? The Annata will be a grand total of 430 bottles that spent a year in Slavonian tonneaux and one in ceramic Tava terracotta. A light touch for a San Casciano sangiovese for which acidity is tempered with 10 percent canaiolo to affect a sangiovese between salinity and sapidity. A wine made by experienced hands not trying to coax too much from the rockiest river stone soils available to anyone in the whole of Chianti Classico. Never ambitious, always respectful and a feeling gained from out of the receded waters (so to speak) to make Annata as pinot noir Burgundian, nebbiolo Piedmontesino or nerello mascalese Etnean as any in the entirety of the territory. A more precise and verging on profound Chianti Classico with that terrific combination of drinkability and structure. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted twice, at Borgo Machiavelli and The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Only sangiovese (because the cabernet sauvignon was grafted over with canaiolo) and now aged in used tonneaux (plus two barriques). Picked earlier than 2020, in mid-September at a time when alcohol can be kept at 13.5 percent and to a softer extraction in this second vintage. What results is a red citrus-styled sangiovese with a bit of sussulto of its own, in other words an acidity so very San Casciano and in a bridge year between cabernet sauvignon and canaiolo to soften, raise pH and lower acidity. Indelible vibrancy, “a style that we want – drinkable,” says Andreita. Even though the tannins are lower it is the acidity that will preserve the wine. And with no sense of overripeness or over-extraction. Represents the place and its makers.  Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Limited production, 100 percent sangiovese of San Casciano bones, saltiness and energy. Notable as always for the herbs and verdancy but this edges up in volatility before descending into its tannic well. Taut finish and in need of two years to settle. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2024

With Andreita Rojas and Stefano Marinari – Calcamura

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Calcamura, a vineyard located between two Poderi, Calcaorelli and Mura, both located on Via Mura. A conjunction of the two, as opposed to calling the brand “Stefandreita.” First vintage for Stefano and Andrea with the vineyard they purchased in 2019. “We were very happy with the result but we knew we could do better. People told us the wine was great but we also knew it was important to maintain quality.” Yes this is an impressive first kick at the can and there is some greenness in the tannin but it’s exaggerated somewhat by the cabernet’s pyrazine. Aged in used barriques for a year. This first Calcamura sangiovese reminds a bit of a Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico mixed with a Renieri Brunello. Wink, wink, say no more. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Martina and Alberto Fabbri – Il Poggiolino

Il Poggiolino – San Donato in Poggio

First visit to one of San Donato and Chianti Classico best kept secrets on the hill above and across the river from Sambuca with another more famous neighbour, Badia a Passignano. Carlo Pacini purchased the farm in 1974 and today his daughter Alessandra Pacini, Alberto Fabbri and family run the 18 hectares with with vines planted between 320 and 400m. The seminal plot is a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery called Le Balze, a.k.a. “the terraces.”

Il Poggiolino AlesPaci5 Bollicina Italiana Método Classico

AlesPaci5 stands for Alessandra Pacini, better half to Alberto Fabbri and her birthday being December 5th. Solo sangiovese 30-36 months on the lees made in Rosato form with just a few years of Il Poggiolino experience augmented by greater experience from consulting oenologist Giacomo Cesare. Really aromatic and autolytic with the finest tight bubble, scraped orange skin and ginger. Truly well made. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Rosacarino 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Rosato made in the salsasso method (a.k.a saignée) run-off from the Gran Selezione maceration. A Rosé not focused on colour and not even aromas but with the intention of flavour as the driver. The nose is expressive of some formaggi, an aged Pecorino meets Beemster sort of thing and yes the taste is what draws you in. Rhubarb and orange with a lot going on with respect to taste. High in tang and needing food for balance. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato in Poggio

The vineyards at Il Poggiolino may reside at moderate elevations between 250 and 350m but there are no south by southwest expositions and so in a hot vintage like 2022 the freshness remains a guarantee. Just three percent colorino goes a long way to raise up character of a Classico that only sees concrete and stainless steel for aging. Sweet acids match the fruit stride for stride and what you want is what you get – A level of drinkability that represents Classico and this northwest corner of San Donato in Poggio. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato in Poggio

A terrific vintage and yes many estates in Chianti Classico lost production to the April frost but at Il Poggiolino the maximum loss was 10 percent. And so come for the quantity and stay for the quality. Rich and concentrated, lightly chalky with a clay and stony feeling. Structure asks that we wait a year before opening the window and set this sangiovese with three percent colorino for aging through to the end of the decade. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2021, San Donato in Poggio

From a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery which may have been a expositional detriment 20 years ago but no longer. The change of climate puts this steep single vineyard sangiovese in great light today and so welcome to the third in a row of vintages that may just shock as to its character and quality. Le Balze 20 years ago was organized as large terraces and in Tuscany you say “le balze,” when you take a giant leap. This Gran Selezione has improved and grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years to join other greats to reside near the top of the appellative pyramid.  Last tasted February 2025

Another perfumed and expressive Le Balze comes with as much if not more pulp and flesh a la mode than those San Donato in Poggio Gran Selezione that have come before. The depeche florals are Spring bloom fresh, the volume set at ideal pitch and you just need to keep putting glass to nose because, well you just can’t get enough. Richness is never compromised but it is belied by the beauty of a tannic caress about as graceful and gracious as there are. This is Il Poggiolino’s finest GS to date and that is saying a lot. “Just like a rainbow.” Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted October 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001, San Donato in Poggio

Wow. Seriously wow from a 23-24 year-old sangiovese that speaks in such a clear vernacular. A language so specific to the space of this place nearest to Sambuca in the UGA of San Donato in Poggio. Yes this is from another era and the wood (though it has disappeared) and tannins (which have melted) have set this up for the longest run through history. The freshness of primary fruit lingers and merges with an ideal window of softening secondary notes. Soft yes but refreshing sip after comforting sip. Just a lovely linger of Chianti Classico as Riserva the way it was surely intended, with or without luck would have it. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Roncai 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

From the 20 year-old vineyard right in front of the house and cantina facing the village of Sambuca that ages 30 months in mostly, but not all new barriques. A wine conceived approximately 10 years ago and Roncaia is the name of an old label produced at Il Poggiolino back in the 1970s, resurrected four decades later with this single vineyard fruit. The meaning comes from roncola, a traditional viticultural knife used to cut grape bunches off of the vine. Rich and chalky, well-structured, elegant and poised for merlot put to new wood for as long as it is. Remarkable really and only produced in years “when the grapes are truly perfect.” Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Le Balze 1999, Toscana IGT

The artist has always been known as Le Balze, a.k.a. “the terraces,” to the wine that would eventually become Gran Selezione. What matters is the steps’ north by northeast facing vineyard and here from what was considered a top vintage at the time. The sweetness of fruit is still so evident and while there should be zero complaint about how well this has aged – the wine still feels like its maturing into the beginning of its denouement. The 2001 (Chianti Classico Riserva) feels much younger and still there is great pleasure to gain from 1999. Great fortune to taste, the wood very much a master of the flavour and sweetness through the entirety of the wine.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOCG 1987, San Donato in Poggio

Current vintage on the market. Yes, that is not a typo. A 27-28 year-old labour of love that from trebbiano and malvasia but in the late 1990s the switch was made for sangiovese as Occhio del Pernice. An elixir so silken and smooth, no rusticity and seemingly untouched by human hands. A Vin Santo as if made by the bees, with apricot, guava, jasmine, lemon, Japanese orange and lavender. Fine, fine spice and just so special. A dream, demure and engaging. On the right side of vivid. One of the finest ever and know that you can drink this meravigliosa dessert wine forever. Drink 2025-2050.  Tasted February 2025

Federico, Martina and Leonardo Tattini – Richiari Porciglia

Richiari Porciglia – Greve

One of the most intriguing and rewarding discoveries of the last 10 years in this family estate on the east side of the Greve River at the base of the Ruffoli hill. The origon is 1980 and 1985 was when Greve in Chianti’s Emilio Tattini and his wife Lidia Martinelli established the winery with the first commercial wines having been bottled in 2009. Brothers Leonardo and Alessandro are now in charge of the vineyards, winemaking and cellar. Leonardo’s wife Martina runs the business and their precocious son Federico is now working alongside his parents and uncle when he not studying oenology at the University of Florence. Considering the continuity of the local and familial, there should be no surprise if daughter Irene joins the team seven or so years from now. The single vineyard or cru “Il Paccio” Classico comes from the oldest vineyard of 40 years of soils based upon Alberese and Pietraforte.

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

First vintage of the “regular,” non single vineyard Chianti Classico was 2009. An Annata conceived from vines between 250 and 350m at the base of Greve’s Ruffoli hill. A perfectly correct Classico, dark of fruit, easy to enjoy, fine though never tart, acidity spot on and smooth. Clean as there could be and a clarity that speaks to style, precise winemaking and place. Made with 95 percent sangiovese with (5) canaiolo. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2020, Greve

The single vineyard Classico from the oldest vineyard of 40 years where Alberese and Pietraforte predominate the soils. Not made in every vintage because, well quality and passion matter dearly to brothers Leonardo and Alessandro. You can clearly see the choices passed down from father Emilio and the stubbornness to only make quality wines with the season dictating the choices. Made in ’20, skipped in ’21 (though Riserva was made) and aged for six months in 15hL Botti after fermentation in stainless, followed by one year in cement vats. Il Paccio the name is just what every generation called this vineyard and place but no one really knows why it is called this. Such a proper Classico and representation of the designation “cru” because there is something so specific and distinct about this sangiovese (with eight percent canaiolo) in its sapid style. Ready to drink though you can see this aging five more years without any real change and certainly zero decline. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2016, Greve

Though already eight-plus years old there has been almost no movement in Il Paccio 2016 from a warm vintage making for stronger and deeper sangiovese. You can smell the place with such expressive strength, the Piteraforte and Alberese stone committing to a local Balsamico with grip that does not come from the 2021. This is Chianti Classico in a nutshell, fine-grained and exceptional of prescriptive tannins for great longevity. You can tell just how gentle the press and maceration process were because for 22-28 days this is Chianti Classico with the finest and sweetest tannins around. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

Riserva is a selection of specific vines and so the choices are made in the fields for 95 percent sangiovese with (five) cabernet sauvignon that makes up just a half hectare of the 14-15 total on the estate. There is more of a Ruffoli feel to Riserva albeit of a darker and exaggerated Balsamic profile from lower elevations. More tart intensity and higher acidity noted as compared to the Classico and the style, or better yet the result is actually quite different. Tannins are grippier as well, fine yet with some austerity here. Needs time, at least two years further in bottle. Reminds somewhat of a Castello di Querceto. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012, Greve

A pleasure of fascination to taste a 12-plus year-old Riserva from this part of Greve and once again the longevity is remarkable. The combination of clones chosen in the 1980s and 90s matched to this terroir clearly decides the fineness of tannin but even more so the incredulous acidity that drives the Balsamico and savour of this sangiovese. This reminds of Lamole more than Ruffoli but 2012 is unique as a vintage and therefore a wine like this will stand up to be counted from an accord forged on its own. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

The first year of Gran Selezione for Porciglia with decisions made in the field for sangiovese with (inclusive of five percent colorino). The best grapes are chosen and left on the vines two more weeks for the final harvest. A combination of best solar exposition, highest quality and smallest bunches are isolated for the Selezione. Sees 12 months in cement vats and then 18 months in second use barriques. A clear line is drawn from the Classico but especially from the Riserva because that is the wine used to season the barriques before they are passed on to the Gran Selezione. The intensity of the Balsamico and fine grained tannins here are a hyperbole of the other wines with so many years needed to soften and integrate the parts. More old school behaviour while up there with other fine GS examples in terms of precision and focus. Drink 2028-2035.  Tasted February 2025

Porciglia Cocciuto 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

A play on words, first on the Coccio stone but also cocciuto which describes a stone-headed Tuscan, like a donkey. There was a donkey on the farm (belonging to Martina’s father) named Cocciuto though he’s no longer with us. The blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) merlot and canaiolo co-fermented in Manetti (Impruneta) terracotta. Once again the use of of aging vessels puts a Porciglia wine in vineyard light which means that time spent hidden away does nothing to take the land and soil out of the wines. As here with an IGT of acidity and tannins meant to express what the vines request. This is a very fine example of an ulterior Greve in Chianti (Classico) style. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli – San Casciano

Poggio Torselli – San Casciano

A return visit to Poggio Torselli but this time with the new branding is called “Il Contadino Cusano” under the ownership of Italian-Canadian Pasquale Cusano from Puglia who moved to Vancouver after the famous Florentine flood of 1966. Cusano is a jeweller, publisher of Nuvo Magazine and proprietor of Poggio Torselli since 2021. There may be 83 hectares of vineyards but just 25 percent are used to bottle the wines and the rest is sold off as bulk.

With Cristina Fonte and Margherita Romagnoli – Poggio Torselli/Il Contadino Cusano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink.  Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new brand “Il Contadino Cusano” takes flight in 2021 with Riserva (and no Annata produced) because of frost-related reduced yields. An exaggeration of the local Torselli Balsamico and also really tightly wound acidity matched with equal force by grippy tannins. This is a different wine than the Torselli Riserva of the past, now with greater vibrancy and energy. At this stage the wines are made by Alessandro Campatelli with consultancy assistance by Carlo Ferrini. Something special begins and brews with ’21. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new branding is called “Il Contadino Cusano” under the ownership of Italian-Canadian Pasquale Cusano from Puglia who moved to Vancouver after the famous Florentine flood of 1966. Now a jeweller, publisher of Nuvo Magazine and proprietor of Poggio Torselli since 2021. There may be 83 hectares of vineyards but just 25 percent are used to bottle the wines and the rest is sold off. The wound intensity of Riserva gives way to greater concentration and depth in Gran Selezione but the nervous energy is not the same. Here a more settled and luxe 100 percent sangiovese that will age well yet drink beautifully pretty much all the way through. Sneaky tannins creep onto the back palate and take hold. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

Just sangiovese, no wood, fermented and aged only in brand new concrete tanks. Carbonic maceration meets alcoholic fermentation. Made by Carlo Ferrini from fruit out of the Gentilino Vineyard purchased by Cusano in 2022 on the edge of San Casciano village behind the COOP grocery, direction Sant’Andrea in Percussina. The name refers to the “Citrus Bizzarria and fittingly the name translates as “oddity.” Bizzaria is the only citrus tree that produces three kind of fruits, a lemon, bitter orange and a third that combines the qualities of the two. That said there is nothing truly bizarre about this wine. Served chilled it might create a buzz on the palate and the uninitiated might see it as a surprise effect but in today’s vinously hip world this fits right in. The dictionary entry of glou-glou – and clean. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot at that time made by winemaker Alessandro Campatelli, fermented in steel and aged one year in barriques. A rich, concentrated, spiced, aromatically spicy and woody Bordeaux blend, but the local Balsamico can’t be denied entry into the overall character. Some toast in the barrels is broadly evident and this reminds of a South African red. Got that soil funk and earthy/peaty quality, finishing at ground espresso. Needs another year to integrate though the stuffing will only give it three more after that. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

The Bizzarria is a grafted tree combining Florentine citron with sour orange, was studied in the Medicean Gardens in the mid-17th century and produces separate branches of both citrus fruits. This Rosé. is made with equal parts sangiovese and pugnitello by way of a micro-generous two hour macerate skin-contact style so that the cheese rind and musky citrus skin combine for something you’ve experienced before. Extract and tannin compound the earthy complexity to mean that food is pretty much necessary as an accompaniment. Sformatino di Zucca with goat cheese just has to be the pairing. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

The last of the Citrus Bizzarria trees were discovered in 1980 by Paolo Galeotti, the “Citrus Archaeologist.” He grafted a twig from his find and waited three years before announcing the find of the strange citrus tree that grows lemon, orange and a fruit that is a combination of both. Il Contadino Cusano is an apt producer to use the name considering Poggio Torselli’s passion and aptitude for growing citrus in their incredible gardens. Bizzarria as Bianco is made with trebbiano and (less than five percent) malvasia with a long skin maceration and only stainless steel to age the wine. Negligible cheese and musky citrus as compared to the Rosato but also less extract and tannin because the grapes do not call for or are want to deliver the same kind of results. A clean and direct Bianco with ultra vibrant frescezza for refreshing use. Much easier to drink and a wine that would not necessarily require food alongside. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer growing and picked together, co-fermented and aged for six months in tonneaux. This being the second vintage from fruit out of just one hectare for the mildest of orange wines, sharp, tart, quite focused and developing texture as it goes. Like the juices of lemon, mandarin and something tropical (guava perhaps) with the consistency of a simple syrup. An unusual wine, semi-aromatic and the gewürz does not take any real control. There is a hint of rosewater and yet the chardonnay takes the lead. Pretty easy to knock back. Drink 2025-2026.   Tasted February 2025

With Bernardo Manetti, Jessica Dupuy and Giovanni Manetti

Fontodi, Panzano

Conca d’Oro, Vigna del Sorbo, Terraze de San Leolino, Pastrolo, Pietraforte, Macigno di Marne, Dino, Amphora, Flaccianello delle Pieve, Il Presidente del Consorzio and Manetti. So much has been written on these Godello pages about Fontodi over the years and so this link should sufficiently fill you in.

Related – Fontodi’s one hundred per cent sangiovese

Fontodi Bianco Vino Biologico 2022, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

From a mixed vineyard, mainly of trebbiano and san colombano but just the trebbiano is chosen from the 50 year-old vines for a project that started in 2016 in response to climate change and a vineyard more consistently ripening the fruit. “You need to put your glasses on to find it,” says Bernardo Manetti and this being the sort of white that sees a maximum alcohol potential of 12.5 percent alcohol. Picked in mid October, aged in used 600L casks for six to eight months. Higher pH and lower acidity as compared to the sauvignon blanc and so a sapid white, never vivid or dramatic, chosen to develop character through wood and not maceration. Still the wine travels on an upward trajectory up the sides of the palate and back down again. “Effete tampone” is a sponging that happens with thanks to the lees naturally cleaning the wine to get it to this place of clarity. Just 800 bottles are produced.  Last tasted February 2025

A new sku for Fontodi and the inspiration comes from the next generation, that being Bernardo Manetti. Made with vermentino, 50 year-old vines, fermented in 600L barrels, 2nd passage (previously used for sauvignon blanc Merrigio). Low temps, every day bâttonage, whole cluster pressed, no skin contact and use of dry ice. Picked at high acid and this is just about spot on but thankfully a dry if not exceptionally hot season has resulted in great freshness, piquant personality and a truly linear Bianco. This is smart and focused. Just a bit more than 12 percent alcohol. 780 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2022, Panzano

Like Dino (in amphora) the aging time in wood for Pastrolo is shorter and so this 2022 put to bottle in June of 2024. From the Lamole (UGA) vineyard pruned in a variation of alberello or goblet training style but the vines run higher due to Pastrolo’s steep terraces. The soils are unique, marine in origin and called marna di macigno, in other words a Galestro type of cracked or flaky manifestation, but in this case from sandstone. The grace and harmony of ’22 Pastrolo is soothing with a delicasse that no other Gran Selezione will ever show. It’s remarkable from this more than warm vintage and the 14.5 percent alcohol is barely perceived. This will wake you up, especially if you are tasting in the first part of the morning. Thank you Pastrolo. I needed that. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2022, Panzano

A finished wine because today is bottling day and what serendipity to taste it on the day. Vigna Del Sorbo is one of the vineyards that escaped the August 16th hail because it’s on the other side of the (Conca d’Oro) valley. Full quantity as a result, approximately one-third matured in new wood, the second year spent in older cask. Freshness captured and as always Vigna del Sorbo is the spiciest of the Gran Selezione but also the one of the three with the finest, if grainiest tannic profile. This after an aromatic wave of floral and mineral before giving way to a sangiovese that integrates with impunity. You’ve got to figure that the age of the vines are responsible for handling the heat of 2022. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Leolino 2022, Panzano

Just being bottled as we speak and the quietest opening pronouncement as compared to Pastrolo (Lamole) and Vigna del Sorbo (Panzano – Conca d’Oro). This from the terraces below and in surround of the Pieve up on the hill where Alberese soil predomimates, unique to Fontodi because schisty clay (with Galestro), Pietraforte (calacreous sandstone conglomerate) and Marna di Macigno (marine sandstone) define the other wines. The Alberese limestone makes for a crispier and more croccante sangiovese, magnified in 2022 and while this is also quite tannic the catalyst to exaggeration is made by the highest acidity of the three. Vinoso but even more succulenza, a very specific character that is San Leolino. In fact this Gran Selezione will take longer to come together, but again the vintage dictates and solicits this response. Drink 2028-2037.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Flaccianello delle Pieve 2022, Toscana Colli Centrale IGT

“Flaccianello for us is always the finest expression of Fontodi terroir and sangiovese grown in our territory,” says Giovanni Manetti. Truth and still a certain sense of irony as coming from the President of Chianti Classico consortium. Flaccianello was struck by hail in 2022 and so one third of the crop was lost because the western vineyard Poggio was obliterated on August 16th. The other two (Pecille and La Cappellina) survived and in the end the Pietraforte that runs through still granted the freshness, structure and especially acidity. There is a more immediate floral bloom and perceived balance from 2022, also sneakier tannins than the previous few vintages of Flaccianello. The longevity is a veritable guarantee, for 20-25 years and quite possibly more. Drink 2027-2042.  Tasted February 2025

Federica Mascheroni – Volpaia

Volpaia – Radda

There are times when it feels as though in the Chianti Classico territory “all roads lead to Volpaia,” a saying that mimics the most famous one of “all roads lead to Rome.” Yet apropos in the context of Castello di Volpaia, meaning “fox’s lair,” though not actually a castle but formerly a walled in medieval village. Also the gateway to Monte San Michele at the peak of the Monti del Chianti. Historically significant within Radda and much of the village is owned by the Stianti-Mascheroni family, makers of Volpaia wine and oil. There is La Leggenda, the great tale of how the Gallo Nero came to be the symbol of Chianti Classico and then there is another La Leggenda, that being the matriarch of Volpaia, Giovanella Stianti. Her daughter Federica Mascheroni brings the family’s work to the world.

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Surprising perhaps because 2021 and well, Riserva but acidity is tops from Volpaia. Then again it’s sangiovese and should there really be any surprise? Just three-plus years in but my goodness how the holy trinity has come together to make this work right here, right now. Fruit, acid, tannin, all aligned horizontally, the first sliding into the second and in turn to the third. Ready and willing.  Last tasted February 2025

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2024

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2000, Radda

Twenty-four years (and 25 to the vintage) later the Riserva from a cool-ish vintage shows its predicted predilection to arrive with acidity intact. The fruit is fully into chewy leather as dried plum and liquorice with the baking spice cupboard providing the accents. One of the first years of Lorenzo Reggoli’s tenure at Volpaia and very much one of his vintages – so there will always be an affinity for 2000 to be connected to the present day wines. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltassala 2021, Radda

The artist formerly known as Riserva and previous to 1999 also Toscana IGT is now become Gran Selezione, as of the 2015 vintage. Still it’s always been Coltassala, sangiovese inclusive of (five percent) mammolo. Like Riserva there is acidity more than merely qualified as Raddese but with this label extrapolated as Volpaia. Volpaia the hill below the Chianti mountains where structure is texture and mouthfeel is length. The Gran Selezione that speaks clearly in youth and so long as the catalyst driver leads the way it will persist like this for another 20 years.  Last tasted February 2025

Always a concentrated sangiovese, from high elevation, solar radiated and night cooled vineyards. Still a five percent mixing in of ultra specific mammolo, spice bringer and catalyst to create this unique interaction with sangiovese. A fulsome vintage, fruit and tannins thick as thieves, luxe behaviour guaranteed and time on side for one of the longest runs to be had in Chianti Classico. The palate and mouthfeel are already showing signs of great activity and you could actually drink this now with the correct salty protein alongside. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted October 2024

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Coltassala 2000, Radda

Impressive freshness persists because of Volpaia acidity, owing to location, location and location. Compared to the first Riserva 2000 there may not by any more concentration but there is more specificity and cool factor herbal notation. The Coltassala feels like it comes from a cooler vintage, even more so as compared to the non etichetta label and that puts it in a more complex situation. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2021, Radda

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always di Volpaia. Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040.  Tasted February 2025

Roast Chicken and Mash Comfort lunch by Giovanella Stianti

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2020, Radda

Truly a different vintage for Il Puro as compared to 2021 for the Gran Selezione transformed in 2010, first made in 2006 after having been planted in 2000. This the GS understood to be worthy a full five years before Coltassala because the single vineyard concept and the greatness of the plot was noted earlier on. More herbology, dusty Balsamico quality and a notable aroma of wild “finnochio.” More rugged by comparison, rough and tumble, crunchy and taut. Tannins will take long to resolve and roasted protein is currently (and for the next five years will be) a must alongside. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Balifico 2021, Toscana IGT

Still and always two-thirds to one sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon, here from a wine almost too young to appreciate and yet at Volpaia there is always a window of accessibility because, well acidity. Location, elevation and the natural world conspire to allow every wine a chance at speaking about itself, even before the elements have come together to truly do so. The Mascherone-Stianti family always knew that sangiovese could speak for the place, to be understood by people who knew Bordeaux varieties better and to this day the IGT is based that way. This Balifico plays a part in the estate basilica for a vintage of many gifts abided by with utmost respect and expertise. Drink 2028-2036.  Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Balifico 2000, Toscana IGT

Oh the delight of a chocolate “After-Eight” mint in a 24-25 year-old IGT from high elevation in Chianti Classico territory at the upper steps of the Chianti Mountains. Many local reds at the stage will just feel old or at least taste like a mouthful of liquid truffle but Balifico’s acids are intact, even though the aromas are already losing their lustre. One-third cabernet meets sangiovese and by now they may as well be equally dispersed because together they conjoin as one. Just a hint of tannin remains, likely not real but sensed anyway. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Shared birthday between Godello and Bettino Ricasoli

Ricasoli – Gaiole

Ricasoli and Castello di Brolio are two historic locations that have been visited on several occasions. This link will bring you back.

Related – Ricasoli, Barone Ricasoli

The last decade has been dedicated to the cru investigations above and beyond Gran Selezione. The three Gran Selezione are now Colledilà, Roncicone and CeniPrimo, each a unique and distinct iteration of Ricasoli’s most important identified blocks of their large amassment of Gaiole’s Chianti Classico terroir. Relatively recent news for Ricasoli is that the company now owns nine hectares in the UGA of San Donato in Poggio and also recently purchased two point five in Vagliagli, at 350m of elevation just below the Tolaini estate.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Francesco Ricasoli sets the 2023 up by describing it as “crispy,” which translates as freshness but who could not think of Brolio ‘23 as juicy. Classic black cherry for this label of 600,000 bottles encompassing all five soil types, 250 hectares and everything that is collected, layered and transcribed as the Ricasoli estate. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Campione: Youthful, still a bit reductive in a sweet bell peppery way, herbal amaro yet to stretch and let the fruit speak first. Good fruit however, substantial and showing Gaiole’s abilities for 2023.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Riserva is truly the extension of Annata, from across the entirety of the Ricasoli estate and aged longer. Accedes to more concentration but still the Ricasoli style must be attended to; sharp, clean, drinkable and a provider of joy. This much is true and yes, the clarity is on display, so obvious in its openly generous and frank transparency. If there were rustic aspects 10 years ago they have long since left the building. It has been a matter of fine tuning, vintage after vintage. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Castello di Brolio 2021, Gaiole

The jump from Riserva to Gran Selezione is a significant one though the conceptualization remains similar, to draw from the various soils, of Alberese, Macigno and schistous clay manifesting as Galestro. There are other places within Chianti Classico that hold the cards to all the major soil groups but Ricasoli holds the great advantage of being able to variegate out of several micro-zones and climates. This makes for the most rounded Gran Selezione but also one with more layers than that of the other two appellative wines. And tou can drink this non-cru GS straight away. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2021, Gaiole

The first single-focused Gran Selezione (and one of four) is at its most floral and juiciest. In other words a sangiovese of great succulenza, accessible and no doubt the sort to attract great international attention, gracing top vintage and year-end lists, and for great reason. It draws you in and nurtures the palate with philanthropic generosity. No longer shy, already open and forthright, its character wise and strong. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Roncicone 2021, Gaiole

The soils are marine in origin, sandstone based with fossils present. The most sapidity of the three single-focused Gran Selezione, driven by soil, profound of conception, deeper thought and finally understanding. The sapid one indeed, taut and botanical, the soil type bringing out an herbal, verdant and tonic-inflected style. Baritone, with a low rumble and cool pool of fruit with seriousness of acidity. High level poly-phenolic sangiovese, recognizable as such to the greatest degree. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG CeniPrimo 2021, Gaiole

Comes from the vineyard with a west facing hill leading down to the Arbia River with fluvial terraces. The terroir of a geologist’s dream, pebbly with silt deposits on steep slopes that require three harvest passages, mainly due to the different fertilities of lower, middle and high parts. Like the Roncicone the phenolic presence is strong and in connection with the Colledilà the generosity is so very attractive. CeniPrimo might be a terrific mix of the two but soil and style conspire to make sure it’s a Selezione of its own accord. That is also defined by the highest tannins of the three and more time is needed to release its charm. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted February 2025

Proud dad, uncle and Gallo Nero producer Giacomo Nardi

Nardi Viticoltori – Castellina

Giacomo Nardi worked at Castellare in Castellina and his brother at Casanova di Neri in Montalcino. Giacomo takes great pride in the wines being made at Nardi Viticoltori and when asked for what he considers to be a list of top winemakers, this was his response. Alessandro Cellai (Castellare), Carlo Ferrini (Pietradolce, Giodo, etc.), Gioia Cresti (Carpineta Fontalpino) and Paolo Salvi (Montevertine and Gagliole).

Curing salumi at Nardi Viticoltori

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2024, Toscana Bianco IGT

Made with 85 percent trebbiano and (15) malvasia just bottled three weeks ago. Simply meant as a white of “easy drinkability.” Sapid, mineral-metallic and well, juicy. Just 11 percent of alcohol, a bit leesy and quick to the point. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri was the name of Giacomo Nardi’s great-grandparents that lived on the farm more than 100 years ago. A 60-40 sangiovese and merlot blend, six months in wood. “Must be a gastronomic wine – 100 percent.” Red fruit, merlot softness and sangiovese acidity. Restaurant by the glass. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Sangiovese with five percent colorino and canaiolo first produced in 2014 now with the image of Siena’s skyline on the label. Soils are clay with some limestone and for Giacomo “the 2022 is better in the mouth.” Aged in a mix of Tuscan, Slovenian and French oak, “essential for aromatic complexity.” Now just in bottle for a bit more than a month, expressive of fruit in a broad way and the tannins are present in two parts, of softness and then in fine grains. Nardi picks on skin and alcohol – not on the pips. He insists they don’t necessarily have to be crunchy and brown. Surely a reaction to climate change and because he wants to make a wine of drinkability. Makes sense in Castellina and yes, there is more than ample ripeness in his 2022. Well done, Giacomo. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Quite a different vintage now that the 2022 has been tasted and it sure seems like Giacomo Nardi and his brother took another step forward in 2022. This 2021 is a bit more rugged and just not as finessed in the mouth.  Last tasted February 2025

For Giacomo the Classico is a “traditional blend and vinification.” Elevated and lifted aromatics from Castellina for Annata, aromatically charged, lifted, phenolic and allied to the palate with well ripened fruit. Sees time in Botti (Tuscan from near Ruffina) and Slavonian wood. Not so much a matter of volatility as about freshness, but a verdant stripe does run thorough the perfume’s middle. Cool, minty savoury, sapid and salty with a feeling of the endemic ethereal. Great curiosity and controlled intensity for Nardi’s 2021. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted twice, February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

The first vintage was 2016, the following vintage was so hot and dry but Nardi did the yeoman work and made a truly drinkable wine. The 2021 is blessed of the good if basic red fruit vintage, here with more polish and refinement as compared to the Annata. You can feel the passion and the piety in this work. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Now five to nearly six years in bottle and still going strong, with thanks to moderate alcohol and even though Giacomo does not feel like the acidity is up to par – it still does what matters. There is in fact some elegance and plenty of life left in this challenged wine.  Last tasted February 2025

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would have been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

Annata is a bit burly, Riserva more refined and Gran Selezione 2021 takes the finesse and focus to another level altogether. Certainly a more approachable GS as compared to the 2019 and again you can see just how much the Nardi brothers have figured out from one vintage to the next. Still vertical and yes the structure is serious but the integration of the Slavonian wood is more in tune with the fruit. Balsamico and croccante crunch for a special Gran Selezione out of 2021. Just 1,800 bottles produced. Drink 2028-2033.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

The first vintage, from Vigna del Pino to mark the Pine Tree at the top part, with only clay and no limestone in this block. Typical Castellina soil in this valley, a top vintage for Nardi and the fruit separated. “Old style of sangiovese that my father planted to the T12 clone.” Long maceration, up to 35 days after alcoholic fermentation and the style is indeed old school, vertical, fruit as purple as they come and it was Alessandro Cellai who identified the block when the grapes were being sold to Castellare. Sees 20 months in Slavonian Botti, acidity maintained is really high and the structure rumbles low below. Wait two more years for the grip to relax and the tannins to integrate.  Last tasted February 2025

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the croccante and graffiante nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted February 2024

The one and only Luigi Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano

Castello di Verrazzano – Montefioralle

There is arguably no visit in the Chianti Classico territory with more ambience, thrills, history, humour, top Tuscan comfort cuisine and quality wines than at Castello di Verrazzano. A few hours spent with Luigi Cappellini and daughter Maria-Sole Cappellini can’t be repeated enough. It all began with Giovanni da Verrazzano, Italian navigator and explorer for France who was the first European to sight New York and Narragansett bays and today the The Verrazzano-Narrows Suspension Bridge connects the New York City boroughs of Staten Island and Brooklyn. Verrazzano wa known as a humanist and man of science, much like Cappellini who came along 500 years later.

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Worthy exercise to taste 2022 next to the settled 2021 because you see how much bolder this next vintage really is. Silky sangiovese impurezza as it is said, warm and sun-ripened at elevation with a look to the Chianti Mountains due east. A syrup of fruit and acidity swirled and seductive, acids purely Montefioralle and a balance discovered throughout. Deeper and darker fruit, sinking into brooding and a sangiovese that will need time to shed it’s weight and rise up again. The acidity will see to that rising and when the weather warms in 2027 this Verrazzano will begin to drink as it should. Fine Annata and one that resembles the Gran Selezione, albeit as parts of the appellative whole. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted twice, at the winery and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Seems appropriate to taste ’21 almost exactly one year to the day later because this exact amount of time has settled the score. The energy has not waned even an iota and today’s pulse is triggered yet measured, like an athlete at rest. Behold a definitive Annata.  Last tasted February 2025

For Verrazzano a complicated and in the end balanced vintage but who could have forecasted the restrained power and elegance. A 100 percent sangiovese vintage and one of somewhat shortened vindication to capture the grace and especially acidity of the vintage. A bit of maceration that hints at carbonic but no fizzy pulse. Almost a spicy sensation on the palate but really a matter of total energy. Bravo. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted February 2024

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2008, Montefioralle

Aromatics indicate an older wine, pleasant and in the throes of primary to secondary transference, but the palate remains immersed in freshness. Succulence and energy in the mouth, cool, sweetly herbal and the fruit still pops. Ignore the historical thought of naysayers who said the 2008s would not age well – Verrazano’s has travelled through life without obstacle because its balance is impeccable. Why not imagine three more years at this level? Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Not sure if any significant movement was expected but none is forthcoming for Sassello 2018. Persistently punchy and grippy with tannins still at their peak. Feels formidably sapid at this stage and perhaps another six months will lighten the load.  Last tasted February 2025

Not yet released and will have at lest three more months in bottle before that can happen. A strong vintage and normally the release would be the fall but both wood and fruit need to time to find each other. The substance in Sassello 2018 is, well substantial, in fact something more than that. Richness at the height of Verrazzano’s abilities but my goodness this packs a punch while also showing off the modernity and harmony that define this estate today. Bravissimo. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted February and October 2024

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

More delicate than Sassello and the contrast is even more obvious from 2018 than it had been for 2017. Though the season developed darker fruit it is the freshness, luminosity and sweeter style of Balsamico that see great lift in this Gran Selezione. In a way a true expression of the word “onica” for mineralogy, “a variety of agate with concentric black and white streaks, or, more generally, with areas that present strong contrasts in colour.” As here from the wine’s core to its edges, in hue and feel, vinous meets gemstone and stony cool.  Last tasted February 2025

The thing that connects Sassello and Valdonica is the vintage, the power and the full on substantial effects compactly packed yet carefully multi-layered. A swarthiness really separates this GS from Sassello in ways that put this in its own light. The aromas and flavours also bring in exotic spices but also a succulence that show how special and different this sangiovese truly is. It walks a fine line, flirts with danger and comes out singing. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted February 2024

Castello di Ama

Related – Castello di Ama’s state of the art

Questa non è una finestra at Ama – Daniel Buren, Sulle vine punti di vista

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Only Ama could pull and gift this much upfront fruit to draw us in as quickly as we do. Richness accrued and balance incarnate, more than juicy acidity and fully encapsulating tannin. If this is what Annata is all about the ceiling is unlimited for San Lorenzo and the more interlocutory and focused single vineyard Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2024 and 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2021, Gaiole

A mouthful of acidity, tannin and mineral direct and defining Ama’s Montebuoni 2021, a wine not yet mature enough to say the window has opened. Quite woody at this age while the dark fruit is so very substantial and so time is needed to melt them into one another. That acidity and seriousness of Balsamic quality speaks to the Gaiole origin as the source for this level of appellation. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted twice, at Ama and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2021, Gaiole

San Lorenzo the concept comes from the vineyard with that name and now the ideal conceives of Gran Selezione as a wine to speak for all of Ama’s Gaiole. The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2018, Gaiole

Aromatic, spicy, lifted and genuine. Extra layers, fruit of course and then floral, calcareously white peppery, luxe as per the appellative level and a matter of time. Vintage but also patience, the latter needed to understand the former, warm and developed, compact and yet never dense. To achieve this kind of acidity is remarkable. A matter of matching same parts to make up a whole. As per Marco Pallanti’s decades of dedication. “I am not a flying winemaker, I am a pedestrian one.” Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted May 2023 and February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2020, Gaiole

Bellavista is first and foremost the Gran Selezione only made in select vintages, inclusive of 20 percent malvasia nera and also the one of ripest fruit with a view. The depth in 2020 is serious, the wine at once grounded and then acidity of a Gaiole nature kicks in to lift and see this Bellavista rise. Full and beautiful, seamless, orchestrated by a master of decades and artistic appreciation while delivering a modernist’s virtuoso performance. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2018, Gaiole

Bellavista the Gran Selezione is only made in select vintages and 2018 marks the first of three consecutive (likely with a fourth 2021 coming soon) after 2017 was passed over. A rare example of GS to include 20 percent malvasia nera and the beautiful view comes replete with riper than ripeset fruit. The depth from 2018 is akin to 2020 but with two further years having come and gone there is now a soft middle in between two grippy pieces of structure. This unique high elevation sector of southern Gaiole with its formidable ridges delivers the acidity of a località which always lifts Bellavista up to its precipice. At this stage it does already feel like looking back at a wine with its window fully open and the breezes blowing in. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2025

Baciate Me, San Casciano (Tasted with Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse in Montalcino)

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avvenne 2020, San Casciano

“Kiss me,“ a play on words for the three men who own the winery, including Le Chiuse and Castello di Meleto oenologist Valentino Ciarla and a vineyard he purchased in San Casciano during Covid. Avvenne loosely translates as “please let me have some more of something, but in one word” and truthfully that is how you will feel after a glass of this wine. It’s is a sangiovese with some canaiolo of very old vines, truly San Casciano with a feeling of the local macchia and a natural wild quality, of great temper matched by restraint. The wine rolls and oscillates in waves, acts juicy, very aromatic, light, at times dusty and yet the texture is flowing. Never sharp and just the right balance from a super tiny production. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Le Chiuse in Montalcino, February 2025

Baciate Me 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

An old vineyard and from the aromatic grape higher in pH and lower in acidity but when really old vines are involved the balance is better. Tasted with Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli who believes that canaiolo should be bottled under glass cork (or why not screw cap) because under nature cork “the wine will lose more then it will gain.” In other words the grape can oxidize faster than sangiovese but here the freshness of the vintage persists and there is a unique, almost corrugated tannic profile. Currants and the Tuscan Corbezzolo, a unique expression that is in fact really expressive. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Good to go!

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Montefioralle (more than a feeling)

Montefioralle #sleeper frazione

They are growing in sangiovese divinity, or should it be said, divino. L’Associazione Viticoltori di Montefioralle, producers with more than a feeling, who share common ground but also something bigger, stronger, more profound. Montefioralle Divino is a September festival that unites this tiny Greve in Chianti frazione and with a purpose all its own. Theirs is a small section of Chianti Classico and one to call their own. This band is so good they named a medieval village after it.

Castello di Verrazzano’s Luigi Cappellini and the Granfondo del Chianti Classico squadra Canadesi

Related – Two sides of the River Greve

Let’s orient you on Montefioralle’s location. Montefioralle is situated on the west bank of the Greve River and close to Castello di Montefioralle, essentially, ostensibly and mostly southwest of Greve and south of Greti. The hamlet has 79 residents and sits at an elevation of 352 meters. As for their famous harvest festival, “Montefioralle Divino è una manifestazione organizzata e promossa dall’Associazione Viticoltori di Montefioralle che saranno presenti alla manifestazione e offriranno i propri vini in degustazione sui banchi di assaggio per due giorni.”

Montefioralle, Greve in Chianti

Two days of wine tasting in Piazza Santo Stefano in the historic centre of medieval Montefioralle, presented by a group in flux, from time to time. In 2019 they were Azienda Agricola Altiero, Brogioni Maurizio, Castello di Verrazzano, Montefioralle, Podere Bucine, Podere Campriano, San Cresci, Grassi Roberto, Terre di Baccio, Terre di Melazzano, Terreno, Villa Calcinaia and Fattoria Viticcio. From year to year membership rises, wanes and changes. And so there are others who bottle within this micro-terroir of i cru di enogea; Belvedere, Le Palei, Luciano Meli, Poggio Riccioli, Schietto and Tenuta Monteficali.

Dinner at Terreno

Related – Feeling Panzano’s pull

The zonazione’s terroir is mostly calcareous clay, with sand and in some cases, outcrops of “compresso indifferenziato argille scagliose,” part schisty calcaire with less instances of Galestro or Alberese and more Macigno. Once again yet another micro-territory in Chianti Classico for Masnaghetti and the geologists to consider in the cartological advancement with an eventual conclusion in menzione geographiche aggiuntive.

Related – Chianti Classico’s big Raddese

Tasting at Calcinaia

Related – Looking out for San Donato in Poggio

The following wines were tasted with Conte Sebastiano Capponi at Villa Calcinaia, followed by a tasting with the producers of Montefioralle in the same location. The members are producers with estates and/or vineyards holdings around the Montefioralle hill. Two years earlier my group had met with eight such producers at Calcinaia. These 21 tasting notes cover the September 2019 speed dating sit-down with nine estate principals, followed by dinner at Terreno.

Wines of Montefioralle

Altiero Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Always 100 per cent sangiovese, from winemaker Paolo Baldini, from the southeast exposure off the the younger vineyard. This is the perfume of Montefioralle, inexplicable in a way, a very specific combination of flowers and herbs but there is a calm and when made this way, a purity, a clarity. A tradition from before that is forever. Slightly more unctuous and full on the palate with some wood addendum. Proper Annata. Drink 2019-2025.  Tasted September 2019

Altiero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016

Like the Annata always 100 per cent sangiovese, this time from the older vineyard facing southwest, away on an angle from Montefioralle and looking towards Panzano, the Conca d’Oro and Le Fonti. The red fruit liqueur is quite silky, savoury in a sweet and almost amaro way, so in a word, stunning. Full and polished with some tradition fully stashed away in pocket. From Galestro and Alberese. And it shows. Drink 2019-2025.  Tasted September 2019

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($30.45)

Essential balance in Chianti Classico Annata, obviously with thanks to the ’16 vintage but even more of a many splendored thing. Concentration and intensity intertwined but truth be spoken this really climbs the hills and then descends, with grace, power and ease. A brilliant Annata from Luigi Cappellini. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted September 2019

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015 ($49.60)

A sangiovese raised organic and a textural matter really defined by the quality and the length of time in contact with its skins. While not too long the extension was embraced and the certainty of a spot on result is certainly admired. Excellent skins, earthy, rich in tannin and also used to great structural advantage. This Riserva will travel long and go deep. Bank on it. Most rewarding work from il cicliste Cappellini. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted September 2019

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2015

This is the wine at Verrazzano first made in 1982 as a Vino de Tavola, then as Riserva and finally as Gran Selezione, first in 2013. The Sassello is the small bird that seeks out the best grapes, in this case at 450m from the highest vineyard on the estate. This just intuits and explains vintage, place and appellation, together in harmony. It’s a cool sangiovese of smooth savour, with great length and slow developing parts. Needs more time. Just does. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted September 2019

Lorenzi Sieni, Montefioralle

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Dry vintage, full fruit, deep red, almost out of cherry and into plum, better acidity than some of its ilk and says Lorenzo, “not greens tannins.” Agreed. Quite silky, almost glycerin and long. Well done Sieni, well done. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted September 2019

Montefioralle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016

Riserva is quite lush and full from 2016, no shocker to be sure and of a perfume that moves from Annata and into what grows low to the ground. Really proper appellative effort for the estate and for the frazione, richly embrued in liquified glowing embers and wet spice for days. Needs time to settle in. Very structured Riserva in which to imbibe after some time. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted September 2019

Podere Campriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

A perfectly consistent follow-up to a ’15 that stole that vintage’s show, here with equal aromatic excellence in 2016. Now showing as a great floral expression (remarkably early it should be noted) in a full bouquet bursting from the glass. There is a level of roundness and fine acid tang with circulative layers as good as it gets. Succinct as sangiovese, Greve and hanging around the finest of Montefioralle. A true Galestro idea presented clear as a clear blue frazione day. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted September 2019

Two sides of the Greve River

Podere Campriano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Balze di Montefiorealle 2015

Perhaps not as balanced a vintage as the follow-up 2016 will bring to this Montefioralle Riserva but ’15 can stand on its feet, no problem at all. No sway but plenty of torque indeed. Love the fruit of 2015, as much as one needs to love fruit. The fruit goes in and then back out of your mouth in equal and opposing fashion. In balance, with acids and tannins in tow. Drink 2020-2026.  Last tasted September 2019

Exactly Campriano, distinct and luxurious in its own perfect way. it’s so very Riserva, unctuous with red fruit that seems almost completely absent of wood. It’s because of the land, a vineyard set in the forest “and still so very present.” That also means it’s in the wine. recognizable every year. Always. The vineyard is west facing above the Greve River, on old terraces, with old stones. You can drink this now even if it’s so young.  Tasted February 2019

Just put to market, the vintage will surely have so much to say and in fact already does, with a combination of perfume and spice. Still dusty, with fennel and endemic herbs, teas and brushy plants. There’s a raspberry to dried currant fruitiness that ’14 doesn’t have, also more mid-palate flesh and overall juiciness. A different sort of structure, still with long capabilities but will likely go into a drier fruit profile after the seven year mark. Elena Lapini is a very busy agriturismo and viticoltore proprietor these days and if these most recent 100 per cent sangiovese from two sides of the Greve river tracks are any indication, she’ll be busier than ever before. Drink 2019-2025.  Tasted September 2018

Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG San Pietro di Sillani 2017

A cru at the highest altitude at 480m of sangiovese and merlot (five per cent) with some time spent in new wood. Altitude meant no frost and also less heat from the arid vintage. Eighteen months in big oak casks, this time in new and while the high up frazione perfume is indeed fully emitting its rays there too is a silky smooth note that recalls the new wood. Looks really good and seems very fine though the wood is very involved. Should be very, very interesting. It’s quite refined. Way too young to call. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted September 2019

Tenuta Monteficali Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Mezzuola 2015

The vigna-designate Annata is likewise a modern take on Chianti Classico label appearances notwithstanding but the smooth texture detail and lush glycerin flavours pale in comparison with the new barrique-aged Riserva. Here second and third passage tonneaux allow the marl and limestone of Montefioralle vineyards to speak a bit clearer and to breath a breath of 500m fresh air into this (85 per cent) sangiovese. The merlot (10) and cabernet sauvignon (5) smooth out all the wrinkles for a lush take on Annata. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted September 2019

Tenuta Monteficali Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Guardingo Di Passignano 2015

Do not be fooled by the whimsical classicism of the label into thinking this Greve Chianti Classico from the heart of Montefioralle will be old-schooled, rustic and ancient-styled sangiovese. It is in fact a facsimile of such a notion and in point of fact the opposite is true. The salt and pepper seasoning of 10 per cent merlot and five cabernet sauvignon are more like spice and sauce to prove the first point. The small barriques aging for 18 months is the second, acceding into a textural Riserva at once silky smooth and then oozing with vanilla, balsamic and resiny syrup. A mouthful to be sure and in the style so well made. A fun fact to know is about the Guardingo Di Passignano, a medieval road and the only passage that connected the three main valleys of the Florentine countryside; Val d’Elsa, Val di Pesa and Val di Greve, Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted September 2019

Terre Di Melazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Cantinato 2015

“Born in the cellar,” of sangiovese with 10 per cent merlot and five cabernet sauvignon. A true glycerin Chianti Classico for Montefioralle, with unction and spice. Sings like a blackbird. Truly Cantinato, truly. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted September 2019

Calcinaia

Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2014

A tirage of VinSanto in 2015, 37 months on lees and disgorged April 2018. In reference to a siege of Florence by the French in 494, an offer was made, not accepted and the trumpets were sounded. Piero Capponi responded with a call to arms at the gates. A matter of familial propaganda and a wine that reminds of France. Linear, sharp, citric, toasty and so very fine. Really crisp, of utter clarity and streamlined like a sail on a fast vessel. Impressive to say the least. Drink 2019-2024.  Tasted September 2019

Sebastiano Capponi

Villa Calcinaia Mammolo 2017, IGT Toscana

Varietal mammolo, fully, completely, capably in control of the wet wool character that only Sebastiano Capponi and (Monte Bernardi’s) Michael Schmelzer can effect, establish and conquer in unique red wine made in the Chianti Classico territory. This is good, righteous and proper volatility surrounding red fruit formed in a cake. Thick and unctuous from 2017 with endless character. Had been looking forward to tasting this finished wine since a first encounter out of concrete tank. Lives up to the billing and the hype. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted September 2019

This limestone, that Alberese

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2016 ($74.95)

A warm and unctuous La Fornace in fine form, consistent to its loam-sand origins, planted in 1975, at 250m of elevation. Faces due south and sees oak casks, 10 hL, approximately six years old. Showing secure and prevalent texture admitting everything about itself, a single-vineyard sangiovese sight that draws the sun and uses every iota of its energy. Good showing from the furnace, Surely not a shocker from ’16.  Last tasted September 2019

Vigna Fornace, “The Furnace” is indeed the warmest of the Capponi Gran Selezione, full of gathered 2016 sunshine, ready to melt in the mouth acidity, tannins and in this case, chocolate. The acidity is very different to Bastigano, here cured, developed and dare it be said in such a young wine, assimilated. Drink this younger while ye wait for the bigger structure and high tonal Bastigano.  Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2019

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2016 ($67.95)

The magical Gran Selezione from the old lady of a vineyard, dating back to 1959. A plot marked by Colombino rock, not quite limestone and not quite sandy Alberese. There is a character in Luisa that no other Gran Selezione displays, neither from Calcinaia or elsewhere. Done up in oak cask, 10 hL, approximately six years old and showing the ease meets power of 2016. Bravissima.  Last tasted September 2019

Now for something completely different. The Contessa’s vineyard is a lifelong dream and confounding sangiovese from which to grab attention. She’s immediately elegant and charming and then so closed. She is predicated on darkening red cherry fruit but her acidity is formidable and so the connection is severe to establish. She lingers with you for so long that you don’t know what to do because she was never really accessible to begin with. Teasing Gran Selezione, an incubus for now, but eventually you will realized the dream. FYI, the oldest estate 1959 planted Contessa Luisa vineyard was dedicated to matriarch Luisa Vonwiller. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted February 2019

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2016 ($74.95)

A component of cement egg on top of the 10 hL, approximately six years-old oak casks brings new layers and light to Bastignano and separates it from the other two sangiovese. It also clay darkens and broods, hides in shadows and remains softer, fleshier, but also sneaky in structure. There’s less pinpointed Calcinaia character and more outside in the diaspora personality. If that splits hairs so be it though it needs saying that Bastignano is a man of means.  Last tasted September 2019

Capponi’s Bastignano is a Gran Selezione consistent and repetitively persistent to speak its singular truth. It is truly hematic, a sumptuous, oozing full-fruit sangiovese with above the left bank of the river Greve coursing through its blood. Very smooth, seamless, finely tannic and beautifully high in ripe acida. If all GS carried such acid then the category would float even higher. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted February 2019

Villa Calcinaia Casarsa 2014, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale ($54.95)

Capponi’s varietal merlot is from the 1967 planted vineyard not realized as merlot until many years later. Fermented in cement vats and then 24 months are spent in barriques. A beast really, young at five years in ways most sangiovese are not. So much verdancy, spice, grip, grit, power and need for space, not to mention time. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted September 2019

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG Vendemmia 51 2016 ($23.95)

Only two points of merlot with the sangiovese from two picks, the first of which goes here, for increased acidity. Dark floral and fruit scents for sure and some spice. Really like the mouthfeel and the acid-fruit structure. Tannins are quite easy. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted September 2019

Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015 ($31.95)

With small amounts of merlot and syrah, it’s quite sappy and resinous. Plenty of smooth chocolate ganache, blackberry and backbone with thanks to a Galestro and Alberese soil mix filled with stone. Big Riserva. Really big. Drink 2019-2023.  Tasted September 2019

Good to go!

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Montefioralle #sleeper frazione

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Don’t you, forget about IGT

San Francesco, Il Molino di Grace

Multiple visits to Tuscany over the past 36 months and more specifically to Chianti Classico have meant that nearly a thousand sangiovese have been opened for tasting opportunities. The tours have also acted to allow for benefactor moments, to present table wines made in part or in whole that either do not or have been chosen to not qualify for DOCG appellative status. These cases are purely opportunistic, in the name of IGT Toscana (and other typical geographical notations) for the purpose of impressing the merits from well-maturing vines of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, blends with sangiovese and other solo sangiovese wines of Chianti Classico producers.

The Galestro of Isole e Olena, Barberino Val d’Elsa

The idea of the IGT practice goes back four-plus decades, to a time when Bordeaux grape varieties began to infiltrate and populate Chianti Classico soils. So much of what was planted through the 90s remains and because only 20 per cent of a Chianti Classico can be filled by grapes other than sangiovese, in many cases it is the “international” varieties that fill in and those grapes still need to go somewhere. It is also a consideration that Chianti Classico aged in new oak barrels is a scarcity these days and so those vessels need to be used for something so ecco, it is IGT, big, small, super or baby that gets the nod.

Fontodi vineyards in the Conco d’oro, Panzano

In the mid to late 1970s Tuscany there developed a quick ascent of the Super-Tuscan, wines that eventually came to be called “IGT” as a by-product of a perfect bureaucratic storm. The micro-nationalistic wave of Denominazione di Origine Controllata (e Garantita) served Italy’s elite producers both a blessing and a curse because on one hand it afforded wines the highest level of (Italian) classification while on the other it added unbending restrictions on how those wines could be made. The rule breaking table reds thus became symbols of resistance, wines that told governments and consortiums where to go and in effect led to an eventuality of response, of a sweeping, money-grabbing movement across that region’s wine-producing territories.

Paolo de Marchi and Cepparello 1995

It was nigh twenty years later that authorities got wise to the situation and so Goria’s 1992 Law 164 was created, thus giving birth to the IGT designation. New monies began to line the government’s pockets. So much for rebellion though twenty years was plenty of time to establish and set up a group of famous wines for life.

The main reason for moving away from the appellation was the restrictive law that said you couldn’t make wine labeled as Chianti Classico if it contained 100 per cent sangiovese grapes. Later examples included Monteraponi when Michele Braganti changed from DOCG to IGT in 2012 because at 12.5 per cent alcohol it did not qualify for Chianti Classico and so it had to be Toscana Rosso. The great first wave began as Chianti Classico producers began to dismiss appellative laws by de-classifying their 100 per cent sangiovese. Fontodi’s Flaccianello delle Pieve and Isole e Olena’s Cepparello are two of the more famous examples. Outside the Classico territory and in other Tuscan lands there were others many consider to be the most rogue and famous of them all. Tenuta San Guido’s 1968 Sassicaia, Antinori’s 1971 Tignanello, 1986 Masseto and Ornellaia, first produced in 1985. But in 2019 the push for Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione category to become a 100 per cent sangiovese appellative wine has sparked not only new debate but also great speculation. Will those once rebellious producers return their top wines and in many cases, single-vineyard sangiovese back to the appellation? Along with Flaccianello delle Pieve and Cepparello, the list of possible returnees might also include the following:

  • Badia a Coltibuono – Sangioveto
  • Carobbio – Leone
  • Castello di Querceto – Le Corte
  • Castello di Rampola – Sangiovese di S. Lucia
  • Fattoria Montecchio – Priscus
  • Il Molino Di Grace Gratius
  • Monteraponi – Baron’Ugo
  • Montevertine – Le Pergola Torte
  • Podere Campriano – 80 (Ottonta)
  • Podere La Cappella – Corbezzolo
  • Principe Corsini Le Corti – ZAC
  • Valdellecorti – Extra
  • Vignavecchia – Raddese

San Marcellino Vineyard, Monti in Chianti

In February of 2019 I tasted 21 assorted IGT wines, from Rosato to Bianco to Rosso. I’ve also added three others tasted a year ago that had not yet made it to print. These are my notes on that 24 strong, eclectic and impressive lot.

Rocca Di Montegrossi Rosato 2018, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Rosato from sangiovese raised from Chianti Classico galestro soils found in Monti in Chianti and only 30 minutes time through press. A 100 per cent sangiovese stunner with absolutely no excess, no onion skin, no oxidation, from all estate vineyards, including San Marcellino’s grapes that once would have been green harvested. Texture, sapidity and character are written down and expressed as a scientific problem out of which complexity sets all to high. One of Tuscany’s great Rosatos, made with great purpose, structure and food friendly to say the least. So good. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted twice, February and April 2019

Lunch at Le Fonti

Le Fonti Di Panzano La Lepre Delle Fonti 2017, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Antipasti wine, house wine, smells like good salumi. The Lepre tank is all the juice from the vineyard blocks where the ripening isn’t perfect and also some pressed juice not used in Chianti Classico. Theoretically from “de-classifed” grapes but in good vintages it could very well be Chianti Classico from a quality standpoint, though wouldn’t qualify because it’s made with 30 per cent merlot. A top notch vintage for Le Lepre, juicy, somewhat tannic and finishing with seed-noted beneficial bitters. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted February 2019

Le Fonti Di Panzano La Lepre Delle Fonti 2014, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Three years forward and the (70 per cent) sangiovese aromatics are eerily similar to the fresher and very forward 2017. Perhaps more salumi and certainly finnochio pronounced. Holding well with tannins resolved and this from the challenging 2014 vintage though truth be told it was the right one, of structure to carry a “second wine” like this forward. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted February 2019

Vicky Scmitt-Vitali and Guido Vitali, Le Fonti in Panzano

Le Fonti Di Panzano Merlot 2016, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

From vineyards planted in 1998 and 2000, this is the second vintage of the varietal hugger, with Le Fonti aromatics stronger than grape. It’s one year in barrel so in the baby Super Tuscan mold, fruity, juicy, lower in acidity and pretty much crushable. Easy and very proper. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted February 2019

Le Fonti Di Panzano Fontissimo 2015, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Certainly crafted from an easier, less stressful vintage and the blend is about 55-60 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 35 merlot and 10-15 sangiovese. Still those Le Fonti aromatics, of salumi and fennel, but here also pepper, graphite, Cassis and chocolate. Very Tuscan so makes sense in such a vintage for the reference to be Toscana as opposed to the frazione within frazioni called Alta Valle della Greve. Very grippy meeting the expected liqueur elixir and black cherry meeting black currant. Acidity is quite fine, purposed and integrated. Impressed by the length. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted February 2019

Le Fonti Di Panzano Fontissimo 2014, IGT Alta Valle Della Greve, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Fontissimo is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. A wine made in Chianti Classico to break in new barrels and to express territory through the ulterior processes of grape blending and winemaking. Here is where Guido Vitali and Vicky-Schmitt Vitali can work on their chops and hone their craft. Hello 2014, vintage of stars and bars, vintage of ages and for those who are paying close attention. Also, welcome to the highly specific Alta Valle della Greve. There’s a commonality for sure that is found in this valley but there is also a simplicity and a sense of place within a place within a place. Easy drinking actually. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted February 2019

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2015, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Gratius is the Molino di Grace 100 per cent sangiovese table wine that resides with a dozen other territorial greats in that existentialist realm outside of the appellation. If and when it will become Chianti Classico DOCG remains to be seen but this 2015 sits on the side of tangy, tart and so bloody structured side and yes, the dominant notes are distinctly blood orange. Elongated and elastic it’s offers up a free and equitable look in the varietal mirror, productive in perfectly perpetual inertia, firm, grippy and motivated. Will come together in a few years time and drift ever so slowly for seven more. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted February 2019

Podere La Cappella Oriana 2015, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

“In my opinion it is young to drink,” shrugs Natascia Rosini. In fact it’s oft considered unusual to hold back white wines to drink, not just here but in Italy as a whole. Then again, who else makes vermentino from estate grapes in Chianti Classico. Salinity and sapidity reign in a shockingly good vermentino. Pear and herbal notes with richness that just put this over the top. Picked late at full maturity and kept in the cellar for two weeks (at four degrees) before pressing. Never failing San Donato vermentino. Drink 2019-2023.  Tasted February 2019

Podere La Cappella Oriana 1997, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

The last time I was able to taste such a comparison was 2014 versus 1998, two under-appreciated cool and wet vintages. Now we look at warm years, 2015 and 1997, the latter at the time considered the greatest. Many sangiovese have failed and fallen but this vermentino, well, even if the colour and the nose are far evolved, the palate has plenty of life. Salinity and sapidity still rock and stone their way, with that marine wind from the sea rushing through, into the air and the soil of San Donato in Poggio. Hard to decide between this and ’98 because there is more flesh here (bringing a honeyed apricot), but sometimes lean is so nice. Such a special moment. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted February 2019

Podere La Cappella Corbezzolo 2013, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

From sangiovese planted in 1981 and 1982, a vineyard not certified as Chianti Classico so this wine can’t be called Gran Selezione. To say this is young and perhaps even being unaware of what it can be would be an understatement. It’s calm and powerful, elegant and ready to strike with force. Such identifiable, formidable, indestructible and yet malleable tannins. A mimic of the singular Colombino rock found only here in the territory, calcareous white stone both strong to build houses (and cellars) and schisty to break apart between your hands. Imagine how this will drink when it allows itself to break down in just the right way and at just the right time.  Last tasted February 2019

The Corbezzolo from vine and into bottle is 100 per cent sangiovese and in name “the fruit tree that produces a very tart berry for making jam.” This comes straight from the heart of the Rossini matter, out of the oldest vineyard planted in 1990-1991. It would be hard not too think on Podere La Cappella’s sangiovese as untethered to family, to meals and the kitchen’s hearth. The demi-glacé in Corbezzolo is deeper, richer, slower developing, of graceful, elegant and ethereal aromatics, even a bit exotic verging on quixotic. There is this far eastern temperament because the fruit seems to simmer with cool, jasmine-floral savour in a galestro clay pot. The acumen is variegated in the singular Corbezzolo concentration but this is not a factor of extract or density. Depth is sangiovese light, dancing from 2013, a gorgeous vintage that everyone will want a piece of. Drink 2020-2035.  Tasted February 2017

Podere La Cappella Cantico 2012, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

As always 100 per cent merlot with a grafting connection to chardonnay and American rootstock. The vintage is a savoury one for the thirty-plus year-old IGT. It’s a very Mediterranean sensation, of black olive and balsamico, hematic ooze and woodsy floor. It’s actually still quite closed or perhaps it’s entered a dumb or quiet phase but don’t be fooled; there is powerful restraint and it may pounce anytime. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted February 2019

Podere La Cappella Cantico 1999, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

A beautifully advanced merlot from vines that would have been 17 and 18 years-old at picking time. If you’ve got a truffle dog, take this wine and go truffling because this merlot is at the head of that aromatic game for the territory. Such a creamy merlot, with plenty of necessary acidity and the freshness of truffle. Merlot as tartufo incarnate. Truly. Delicious. Drink 2019-2025.  Tasted February 2019

John Matta and John Szabo Vicchiomaggio

Castello Vicchiomaggio Ripa Delle Mandorle 2016, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Sangiovese (80 per cent) with cabernet sauvignon, all fruit and nothing but the fruit, plummy and with a nutty smokiness, but also manageable with simplicity from and for fruit. What works and gives from the basic and forthright IGT ideal. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted February 2019

Castello Vicchiomaggio Ripa Delle More 2016, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Sangiovese (50 per cent), cabernet sauvignon (30) and merlot (20), from “the hill of the blackberry.” A rich, purple flower aromatic, liquid chalky, deeply rendered red. Done up in a combination of new and pre-used barriques. There’s a salumi feel, a musky pancetta and a silky smooth mouthfeel. Nearing glycerin but staying its clay-mineral coarse. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted February 2019

Castello Vicchiomaggio Villa Vallemaggiore Poggio Re 2016, Maremma Toscana DOC Rosso, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

From cabernet sauvignon grown on sandy soils in the warmer maritime area near Grossetto. The grapes comes from “the hill of the king,” and the attributes are so bloody varietal obvious. Cassis, ribena, blackberry, savour and spice. Chocolate and rosemary, tarragon and cinnamon. Very expressive and with good elevated acidity. Quite the tannic beast. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted February 2019

Castello Vicchiomaggio FSM 2015, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

From a project that began in 1995, this is 100 per cent merlot of a small, 3,000 bottle lot. It’s hard to decide if it’s more varietal or more Toscana so let’s just say it straddles the two with perfect ease. Youthful, big and warm, very Mediterranean with gariga, black olive, rosemary and dusty notes. Silky smooth however and finishes in balsamic, viscous and reduced. High quality merlot to be sure, with fine tannic structure. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted February 2019

Amphora, Fattoria Montecchio

Fattoria Montecchio Priscus 2015, Toscana Rosso IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

The IGT is 100 per cent sangiovese of 1,200 bottles aged in 100 per cent terracotta amphora formed, forged and cured on the Montecchio property. Same must/juice as the Gran Selezione so the side by side comparison is the show. Winemaker Riccardo Nuti is interested in this investigation for family tradition, commercial continuity and passion project affirmation. Quick time on skins, fermented in terracotta tanks and racked into “amphora,” in this case elongated egg-shaped clay vessels for the next two plus years. The texture and the spice are higher, as is the volatility but the threshold is not in any danger of being breached. The tannins are more present, demanding and vivid. And I prefer them because they are just that more interesting. This is in fact a remarkable look at the relationship between grape, vessel, material, approach and place. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted February 2019

Fattoria Montecchio Pietracupa 2016, Toscana Rosso IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

An IGT blend of sangiovese (60 per cent) and cabernet sauvignon with a percentage coming from San Donato in Poggio vineyards close by. Much deeper, bigger, broader and brooding as a blend with smooth silky consistency and fine silky tannins. Very oaky, completely mature and filled with the flavours that lie on the balsamic-chocolate-blackberry spectrum. Though the sangiovese character is lost it’s a real high-end charmer. Drink 2020-2027.  Tasted February 2019

Fattoria Montecchio La Papesa 2015, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

A varietal merlot of high level ripeness and while it’s a bit overripe and certainly extracted the acidity is supportive, balancing and results in something charming. The tannins are soft and comforting with zero astringency so yes, think of this as a great big San Donato hug. Figs in reduced balsamico are the prevailing flavours, with lots of dark but not bitter chocolate coming through with the finishing next level morbido feelings. As big as it may seem to some palates it’s actually quite easy to drink. Drink 2019-2024.  Tasted February 2019

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2017, IGT Toscana Centrale, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

A Bordeaux blend from young vines in frost spots and high humidity places not really suitable for sangiovese. The blend is merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and canaiolo. So what is it? Well for one thing it’s the “daughter of the gypsy,” and then it’s a high acid, taste of place before anything else red blend. High tonality, ripe purple fruit and and a boatload of currants. No pyrazine, well perhaps just a bit. Low alcohol for such an animal, remarkably so and once again it’s a great matter of sapidity. Just a hit of chocolate late, as per the grapes which needed to have a say. Drink 2019-2023.  Tasted February 2019

Monte Bernardi Tzingana 2015, IGT Toscana Centrale, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

The “Gypsy,” from the old Greek, or in Italian, gitano or tzigane. This gypsy is the old vine version, of 50 years, top grafted on a sangiovese/malvasia/canaiolo/trebbiano vineyard planted by the previous owner in the late 80s. It’s made from merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot (but no canaiolo) and also no sangiovese because tells Michael Schmelzer, there is no cannibalizing the Chianti Classico. This is deeper, richer, lower in acidity, still sapid but not as pronounced and higher in finishing chocolate. The wood needs a year more of integration. Drink 2020-2027.  Tasted February 2019

Luca Martini di Cigala, San Giustro a Rentennano

San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2013, IGT Toscana, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Percarlo IGT Toscana 2013 is the current vintage of the 100 per cent sangiovese that began in the 1980s when it was forbidden to label such a beast as Chianti Classico. “Percarlo is his identity so he will not come back,” insists Luca Martini di Cigala. Made from the smallest bunches and a selection of the best fruit, yet still from the same vineyards albeit blessed of more from tufo soil. Percarlo carries the same San Giusto richness and acidity working in silky tandem and the tannins are the most plush, which they’d have to be to match the high level of glycerin. Formidable and exceptionally refined sangiovese. Drink 2019-2028.  Tasted February 2018

San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2005, IGT Toscana, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Once again you would have no idea that any time may have passed, not just because the hue has yet to morph but because the aromatics and fresh gelée are one in the same, together as they have always been. The purity and exquisite texture also conspire for a sublime intertwine and then out of this comes the acidity, trailing like a comet. The tannins are still so strong and so the smoky spirit and intensity of variegated flavour persists, gets reprimanded and is held out for all to taste. Here the maximum coaxed from the grape is acceded above and exceeded beyond. Drink 2019-2035.  Tasted February 2018

Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 2015, IGT Alta Valle Della Greve, Tuscany, Italy (WineAlign)

Il Carbonaione is from the finest sangiovese on the Ruffoli property, a Chianti Classico vineyard declassified, with vines as old as 90 years but in reality, not exactly 100 per cent sangiovese. Some post-phylloxera ungrafted vines and many co-planted with no record of origin perhaps or likely place mammolo, colorino, canaiolo, malvasia, trebbiano and even occhiorosso in five to ten per cent amongst clones of sangiovese. The nose is like the Chianti Classico magnified, reduced, compressed and elevated. The florals rival the Lamole but they are more into potpourri and the acidity is super, super fine. The only comparison might be in acidity like Luca’s San Giusto a Rentennano, with the sandy soil base and the saltiness but the tannins here are set upon broader shoulders. With much less stone worked in the soil you lose the chalky grain streak but gain this broader complexity. With such beckoning and burgeoning acidity the vinatge is put on a great pedestal and the possibility seriously exists for two decades of aging. Ruffoli’s 400-600m elevation, with a long growing season (sometimes seeing pick times up the second week of October) means the full and complete phenolic ripeness is wholly realized. Not to put too much stock in here but 13.5 per cent alcohol. Just sayin’. Drink 2020-2034.  Tasted February 2018

Good to go!

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San Francesco, Il Molino di Grace

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