Tag Archives: Red Wine

VINTAGES May 26, 2012 Release: Tuscany

Vineyards in Tuscany. Credit Peter Gridley

May 23, 2012

More from the VINTAGES, May 26th Release:

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/21/vintages-may-26-2012-release-chardonnay/

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/23/vintages-may-26-2012-release-tuscany/

Here five terrific wines that raise the bar for the varietally variable and blue-blooded Sangiovese. Etruscan treasures of high benevolence, proud and unwavering in stature. Quality across the board from Aziendie Agricoli enjoying a new Renaissance and representing a vinous gateway to classical civilization. Architecturally driven bottles of pleasure, engineered today by masters of their craft.

Vicchiomaggio Agostino Petri Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 (993360, $19.95) represents immense IVR* in modish CCR. High toned Sangiovese fruit perhaps void of a certain transparency but in equity with necessary acidity.  Forward thinker and delicious. The ’01 was $25.95.   88

 

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico 2007 (39768, $33.95) the dictionary entry for CC defined eclipses the storied ’04 and ’06 in weight, balance and power. Complex, confounding, a funk of its own accord, not animal or barnyard, but something other. A Stanley Clarke, Zabadoobeede Bass Days beat. Smoke, tar and grotto florals like a Snake Head’s Frittilary.  92

La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (279083, $39.95) of compendiary and dirtless, sylvan cherry spice is “hard to handle now,” a corvo nero to Chianti’s gallo. Gangly at present, the old school Mannella will grow in stature to shake its money maker and take off in future flight.  88

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (353201, $43.95) is money, a Siena red and golden sunset of  licorice sweetness. Viscous liquere-spiked espresso with big tannic grip. Five to 10 years away from pay dirt.  89

Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (651141, $59.95) of fat and hearty, bubbling beef broth contributes towards defining Tuscan animale in Sangiovese. Iron and lead brined cherries soaking in beef suet. This Antinori is a resplendent, modern expression of Brunello.  91

Good to go!

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-To-Value Ratio

Fiddleheads, Morels, Ramps, Rhubarb and Gamay

 

May 22, 2012

Fiddleheads already as adult ferns. Leeks unswelled, Morels hiding underground. Have I ever noted the forest so dusty, so dry? No rain. No moisture in the ground. This on the heels of the previously alluded to heterodoxical winter of no white stuff. Peer beneath the surface and a modest harvest is discovered.

Ramps of Modest Swell

At this point in the Spring Wild Leeks tend to burrow deeper underground but the lack of moisture finds them much closer to the surface. The unearthing is done with ease.

The boys dig in

The ferns are tall as a tree, wide as a house. The bracken sweeps across the forest floor. Healthy and climbing rhubarb is on the verge of going to seed.

Giant Ferns

  

Rhubarb

Dominique Piron Les Pierres Morgon 2009 (231969, $22.95) loads up on black cherries seeped in a floral bath of Brunnera, Heuchera and unfurled Matteuccie fougère-à-L’Autriche. Schist, granite and iron minerality imbue the wine with dynamic volume. The relationship between the Gamay and earthy vegetables are “all the more a pair of underwater pearls, than the oak tree and the resurrection fern.”  89

Piron Morgon 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fort continues to take shape…

Forest for The Fort

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

Wines over Two-Fours on Victoria’s Weekend

poundandgrain.com

 

May 16, 2012

 

The birthday of Queen Victoria, a.k.a. Widow of Windsor, The Grandmother of Europe and Drina, leads an annual Canadian pilgrimage to purchase flats of beer by the two-four. Truth be told, the Queen held an enthusiasm for wine from Hochheim (Rhinegau, Germany) and Hungary’s Emperor Franz Josef had a tradition of sending her Tokaji Aszú , as a gift, every year on her birthday, one bottle for every month she had lived. She also reportedly had previously used Marijuana, Opium, Coca (raw cocaine) and chloroform. Wow!

Victoria Day

 

 

 

 

 

 

So why don’t we go wine over beer for the long weekend? Well, partly because our friends at the Ontario Craft Brewers are doing such a bang up job. Also because a Canadian boy’s future begins on Monday, (Tuesday on a long weekend) and his weekend starts on Friday. Still, my job is to steer you down the road of vinous possibility. I would stop short of recommending Drina’s namesake cocktail, the Queen Victoria’s Tipple, a simple mix of  ½ a tumbler of red wine plus an amount of Scotch “…stopping a good deal short of the top of the tumbler.” Hang on to your chalance, beat off the beer dictators with a cudgel and proclaim, “I have no attitude without a glass of wine.”

 

Michel Delhommeau Cuvée Harmonie Muscadet De Sèvre-Et-Maine 2010 (164624, $12.95) scatters nether and beyond the stereotypical need for oysters pairing. Light as the sky, “a free man in Paris…unfettered and alive.” Like I said before, it offers up more complexity, flesh and sea bone than its brethren. Courts shrimp, sparks smoked chicken and even ventures into baby back rib territory. On the card at Barque.  88

MICHEL DELHOMMEAU CUVÉE HARMONIE  MUSCADET DE SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2010

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Los Haroldos Reserva De Familia Malbec 2008 (269068, $14.95) heralds BBQ season officially open. This despite its closed aromatics and taste obscura. Biddable aspersions make good the silver-tongued, concrete poem. Silence will lead to golden connections with grilled meats.  At Barque.  87

LOS HAROLDOS  RESERVA DE FAMILIA MALBEC 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

Time the magazine to watch Draper’s Lytton spring eternal

 

 

May 14, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/14/time-the-magazine-to-watch-drapers-lytton-spring-eternal/

 

Shout out to the GOP. Not the Romney, need for breast feeding discussion in America kind. The wine blogging variety. The GOP‘s  fearless leader known affectionately as Bastardo coined the phrase, “that Draper perfume.” As in Paul Draper, as opposed to Don, but no less a mad man when it comes to concocting Zinfandel blends out of Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. Draper’s perfume is unmistakable, inimitable, intoxicating. “Nothing else in the world smells like that…smells like victory.” Once upon a time there roamed Ernest and Julio, “party guys,” but today’s magazine should have that Water Buffalo-type Paul Draper grace the cover. I can’t think of another Californian winemaker as being of the people. I am unabashed to say the Lytton Springs is my favourite Dry Creek Zin and no mid-value California red consistently impresses 10 years on like this one. The LS can be had south of the 49th for less than $40 but can still play with the bigger boys. Here, a sneak peek from the VINTAGES, May 26, 2012 release.

Paul Draper, Ridge Winemaker /Standard Newspaper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ridge Lytton Springs 2009 (982413, $46.95) will live in infamy like the ’92 and ’99. Immediate waft of freshly shucked vanilla bean. Ambrosial, earthy, briary fruit. Precise distillation inclusive of 23% Petite Sirah results in an impossibly lambent cordial. Not to mention you gotta love that Draper perfume. Open the magazine in 10-15 years time for the best read.  93

Lytton Springs 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

VINTAGES May 12, 2012 – Wines for Mother’s Day

May 9, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/09/vintages-may-12-2012-wines-for-mothers-day/

 

Chardonnay. So often velocitized by toasted oak that a rise against it became known as the ABC movement. Trust me, Chardonnay is back and like City TV (thank you JB), it’s everywhere. The C-magnet. The new Sauvignon Blanc. My top two recommendations to drink with mom this Sunday adhere to the new credo. The new C.

The Vintages May 12th release springs west to champion the obvious, a collection of celebrity aces in the hole. California. “I don’t know this sea of neon.” Look close and there suns some legends of the fall. The Sunshine State had been, until recent times, on a serious, red-hot roll. Today’s refrain “California rest in peace, simultaneous release” may word petty tom foolery but balance be thy name where are you? Sweet Cabs and Zins, you’re jammin’ me, can’t you see? “Take back your ups and downs of your life in raisin-land.” That said, I did taste some exceptional reds at April’s California Wine Fair (Signorello Padrone, Duckhorn Merlot, Flowers Pinot Noir, Heitz Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon, Justin Isoceles, Lauren Glen Cabernet Sauvignon). My favourite Californian here is white, graces the catalogue’s cover and fittingly bears a legendary name from a vineyard paying homage to one of the earliest examples of American fiction.

 

Talbott Logan Estate Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (716290, $26.95) alights on the lighter side of Chardonnay’s street. A morning’s faint buttered toast and a banana cream shake. An understatement of CVR** importance. Near decapitation by an abrupt craning of the fruit remains the only deterrant. Still, Washington Irving would dudely abide.  90

Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2009

 

 

 

 

 

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010 (738393, $17.95) will be your best IVR* bet for Chardonnay day on May 26. Wild yeasts make cause for a weird resemblance, reminiscent of February’s Furmint. Delicate, expressive and unusual, the mint flint, brioche and smoked pineapple effect leads to thoughts of Blancs de Blancs. A little malo just might turn this into good bubbly!  89

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010

 

 

 

 

 

Other wines tasted:

Yalumba Museum Reserve Muscat (963488, 375 mL, $24.95) the fortified Aussie sticky is liquid toffee in a glass. Apricots dominate the caramelized and poached stone fruit ideology.  “It’s a floor polish. It’s a dessert topping.” A shimmering, Saturday night should end well at this lively museum.  89

Domaine Chenevières Chablis 2010 (277913, $19.95) winds Fourme d‘Ambert and the odd combo tang of apple pizza. Ripe mastica in need of root vegetables, or salsify pasta.  86

Domaine Jean-Pierre Sève Terrior Pouilly-Fuissé 2009 (681056, $23.95) the freshmaker emphasizes land-driven Chardonnay fruit over oak and local Solutré minerality, all wrapped up in Pouilly’s fatness. Lemon yellow, mint julep with a touch of relegated green vegetal calme.  87

Geil Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett 2011 (994764, $14.95) offers a sneak peak at the hyped ’11 German vintage. Sweeter rank than expected with red apple skin rubbed by citrus acidity. For garden sipping amidst the roses.  86

Hidden Bench Terrior Caché Meritage 2008 (505610, $35.20) displays that distinct Silurian charcoal and calciferous bedded limestone of the Beamsville terrior.  Right bank Merlot driven brawn and unusual yet effective Szechuan black bean and hoisin. Give this Niagara red a JJ from Good Times, kid do-lo-mite!  88

Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Red Label Zinfandel 2009 (708289, $19.95) gobs sticky, blanched blackberry and petrol-scented Italianate metal. Foot stuck squarely on the pedal.  84

Gallo Family Frei Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (555607, $38.95) sports Coonawarra-like menthol and eucalyptus, along with vanilla bean and a sweet mulberry chalkiness. Pointed, poised, surprisingly resourceful and long.  89

Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (45476, $84.95) should borrow a page from the book of Nash, move on from the point and take on a GM position. Lush fruit on the wane, grip on the ball loosening. Can still pass with the best but no longer a scorer.  88-90

Majella The Musician Cabernet/Shiraz 2010 (142018, $19.95) the good egg is fine tuned and a classic example of the Coonawarra locale. “I can’t pretend there’s any meaning here or in the things I’m saying” but I can say this CS will cris-cross the tongue like a Nicky Hopkins finger roll.  88

Les Ormes De Pez 2008 (133819, $43.00) is tough as nails. Attacks the mouth and vacuums out all moisture. St-Estephe in a seersucker suit. Formidable tannins but perhaps not as ripe as will be needed when integration happens.  87-88

Bellaria Assunto Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (206854, $36.95) the cheep and cheerful Sangiovese Grosso is light and lithe for the appellation. Opaque purple but don’t be fooled by body or colour. Underlying firm and unforgiving backbone lurks in its shadows. Big potential.  88-90

Chapillon Cuvée Rémy 2007 (271114, $18.95) gets the nod for red IVR* wine of the release. A rare feat at this price out of Spain’s Priorat. Hue of bunsen burner blue. Sanguine Kirsch aroma mitigated by citrus. Teeth teeter on a tethered, tannic rope. Mullioned window to a fabled, Iberian land of vinous greatness.  89

Château La Tour De L’évêque Rosé 2010 (319392, $18.95) initiates a Strawberry response, of course. Subtle, faint pink tinge yet viscous, I could drink this by the bucketful. At once cloudy and then see through. “You thought that I would need a crystal ball to see right through the haze.” Could spot this one from a mile away.  88

Mas Des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Rosé 2011 (950576, $13.95) remains the best deal in southern French pink juice. Lacks the feminine complexity of the La Tour but succeeds as a rosé cocktail all on its own. Melons and berries on the sweet finish.  86

 

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Intrigue-To-Value Ratio

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

Old world wine Avengers

Avengers Wine

 

May 7, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/07/old-world-wine-avengers/

 

A generation of eonphiles older than myself are fortunate to have seen a forest for the trees. Their knowledge of the Truffula allows them to dwell in vinous perpetuity where “peace and balance are the rule.” This a land where gold is in them hills. Where a wine’s colour is detected by means analogous to the use of the eye. Wines that maintain the line of gravity, where fruit, tannin and acidity work together toward a common goal. Wines maxing out at 12.5% abv. The need to avenge the annihilation of proportion by wines that sold the world may be partially offset by emerging and steadying technologies but I am on the road again, looking for a miracle beyond the latest fashion. In this canned heat world of red berry, chocolate milkshakes “there’s a brand new talk…it’s loud and it’s tasteless.” It’s getting old and increasingly hard to handle. Were rebel winemakers superheroes they would be the Avengers and their wines the super-powers they wield to rid us of the scary monsters and once again restore an old world order.

Two recently (re-tasted) Vine Dirt wines on the card at Barque are a current source of enlightenment to “see me through the days of wine and roses…see me through when things get heavy.”

 

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (208462, $35.95) the real water buffalo type is a rare throwback to a time when the likes of Biondi Santi and Soldera ruled the Montalcino mountain. The Nere must be admired for being fearless and without code. Perhaps it lacks a certain genome and it is this missing part that allows it to fly. Hovering and truffling about on a bed of parched, brick earth and roses. Redolent of balmy bracken and game roasting on an open-pit. A revertigo Brunello to send me back to the Fortezza circa 1987.  91

Terre Nere Brunello 2006

Terre Nere Brunello 2006

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Pieve Barolo 2007 (213132, $28.95) shines as the adolescent kin to Marziano Abbonna’s two terrific adult Baroli, the recently released Terlo Ravera and soon to arrive Pressenda. Reconnoitering with the Pieve opens a window into an unparalleled universe of value to be found in this produttori’s Nebbioli.  End-of-tether quality of light shining ever so lightly in the glass. Cherries soaking in a bowl of rosewater. Top notch match to the simplicity of tortelli di zia and to the bold flavours of smokehouse chicken.  90

La Pieve Barolo 2007

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Desert island wines?

Vertical Restaurant

Vertical Restaurant

 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/02/napa-valley-cabernet-sauvignon-desert-island-wines/

 

Comparative 2008 Napa Cabernet Tasting

By Featured Writer Jascha Baraness

Vertical Restaurant, 100 King Street West, (416) 214-2252

 

The comparative/competitive tasting event was hosted by Merryvale winery of Napa Valley, California.  An assembly of 30 Sommeliers sat down to a blind tasting split into two flights. We were to rank our favoured wines from most to least.

The first blind flight consisted of five Napa Cabernet Sauvignons from the 2008 vintage, all from houses of great repute.

Before I continue, I’d like to mention that I started out by taking detailed tasting notes (sight, nose, taste, finish and overall impressions) but that after the 4th wine, I realized that the differences in the notes were so minute. It became abundantly clear that notes were going to be futile in helping me pick my favourites.

All the wines were very young, taught, with firm tannins and could certainly use another ten years in bottle.  I’d like to also let you know that my red wine preference tends to lean towards the old world. I look for high acidity, austerity and fruit as secondary, so, although I could appreciate the quality of the winemaking, I wouldn’t take any of them to a desert island.  This was an afternoon that tested even the most discerning of palates.

Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Duckhorn
Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

 

 

 

The wines of the first flight were: (listed in my order of most to least favourite – retail prices attached)

  1.    Duckhorn ($80)
  2.    Merryvale ($90)
  3.    Caymus ($80)
  4.    Cakebread ($99)
  5.    Joseph Phelps ($75)

     

 

 

 

 

 The second flight consisted of six prestige cuvées, all from great Napa houses.  Once the wines were revealed, I was pleased to find out that my palate had not let me down, and that the Napa prestige cuvées that I’ve always felt an affinity for, were the ones that came out on top of my list.

Merryvale Profile 2008 - Business Wire

Merryvale Profile 2008 - Business Wire

 

 

  1. Profile, Merryvale ($180)
  2. Dominus ($150)
  3. Insignia ($199)
  4. Quintessa ($120)
  5. Opus One ($365?!)
  6. Caymus Special Selection ($120)

 

It was an enlightening tasting that showed similarities, yet subtle differences in wine making techniques.  Like all great Napa wines, there were no issues with grape ripeness, however the challenge remains balancing fruit and acidity and the better examples were able to negotiate that tightrope seemingly with ease.

It was a purple-toothed farewell as I thanked the organizers and made my way home.

 

Thanks Jascha, good to go!

 

 

May Day, Mayday. Dinner and a Beaune

Rigatoni, Ramps and Reggiano

May 1, 2012

 

My May Day horse parade odes not to the Gaelic Beltrane nor to the German Walpurgis.  No International Worker’s Day march, raucous celebration or Neopagan revelry.  My May Day includes a mayday call, a Burgundian venez m’aider if you will, to a blessed Beaune.

A friend of mine, here referred to as the “quote machine,” said “I don’t go beneath Volnay.” So, this tasting note’s for you QM. This Beaune spoke well alongside the aforementioned Pasta Asciuta. Second half of the bottle should be stellar alongside French Toast Hamburger Sliders.

 

Domaine Vincent Girardin Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières 2009 (940825, $38.95) ventures out on a four-beated gait. Muted Cinnamon, sweet Hyssop aromas and to taste, candied sugar cane beets. Then a two-beated trot where sweet raspberry gets inside the muzzle and ambles on the buds. Canters, picks up speed and flurries into an all out elegant red fruit gallop of pure Pinot joy. A whispering, celestial horse. Currently lean in body but I can see it adding weight and flesh over ten years. Will pay regular visits at the retirement farm.  91

DOMAINE VINCENT GIRARDIN SANTENAY LES GRAVIÈRES 1ER CRU 2009

 

 

Good to go!

 

VINTAGES Classics, May 2012 – Six “values” under $69

 VINTAGES Classics May 2012 

April 30, 2012

VINTAGES 

 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/30/vintages-classics-may-2012-six-values-under-69/?postpost=v2#content

 

The bi-annual fine wine catalogue is “free to those that can afford it, very expensive to those that can‘t.” Have been burning the midnight must, wondering from which discretion inspiration will come, trying to forge a splurge decision on a $100+ icon. A Bouchard or Dublere Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru? Champy Mazis-Chambertin GC? Beaucastel Hommage or CDP Blanc? Messorio, Clos Mogador, Quintarelli Alzero? What about the Vérité Le’s and La’s? Head shake as if oscillating, eye-level hung boxing punch bag. Have now come to my senses. Presenting a shortlist of six under $69.

 

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 (275735, $39) quiet, honest and of a certified sustainable winery represents the best fruit from prized vineyard sources situated around Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It has been said and may be true that early on some vintages at Rex Hill were more promise than delivery. Notes on the 2009 swing the pendulum in this outfit’s favour, “…just a lot of depth and flavor for the money,” “…loquacious and slightly acidic, yet well behaved” and “…focused, satiny and elegant.” Released at $48 US, prices hovered around the $30 mark last summer and if you were to find it now, the average price nets over$40 US.

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 (119081, $45) gumshoes while the iconic Littorai and Sea Smoke divert attention. Comfortably comparative, unrestrictive $10-15 tag versus our neighbours to the south. Make no mistake, this is deeply hued, 14.4% ABV Sonoma Pinot. Resides in that not yet greedy, none too precious wheelhouse once inhabited by Kosta Browne. Matthew Jukes says the Hobbs RRV owns an “…innate understanding of the celestial Pinot form.” The Scores are RP (92) , WS (91), JR-ST (90) and CT’s (91).

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009

                                              

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco 2007 (715763, $49) totes Cru vineyard status and reminds me that Barbareschi offer some of the greatest $50 value. A tangerine site the Roncaglie, “she is my queen,” producing a shimmering wine with Nebbiolo country flourish. Galloni (94+) is joined by Kyle Phillips (**), Michael Franz (93)  and Monica Larner (91) on the butter pat.

Colla Roncaglie Barb 2007

Colla Roncaglie Barb 2007

 

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006 (261982, $65) will fill the “going to California with an aching in my heart” hole in my current wine voyage life. A hovering Zeppelin of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon replete with Left bank lead blown by Pacific winds over Diamond Mountain. Mr. Laube at WS (82) is the sole detracting critical voice so skim his dis off the bottom, along with the (96) hyperbole from W & S, from off the top. The middle ground notes black fruit, high, coarse tannins and a wooden depth of flavour. Priced and continuing to sell near the $75 US mark so a steal by VINTAGES, California standards. Here some more critical thought from WE (93), WN (92), RJ (91), Vinography (9-9.5) and the CT’s (91).

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006

                       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (149583, $69) the highly clicked Sangiovese will clog the Classics queues. The (97) from Spectator guarantees a lottery effect. A child might ask, “what’s so special about this wine, what’s its magic?” If Brunello is your thing, you have to put in a ballot. Oh Serena, “when I come to lie in your arms, you should not treat me like a stranger.”

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006

                   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009(91652, $69) will be the singularly most requested wine of mortal value from this catalogue. Robert Parker rated it (98). Drop me a line if your ticket comes in.

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009

Other Wines of Note:

LOUIS JADOT CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET LES DEMOISELLES GRAND CRU 2008 (261032, $399)

JOSEPH DROUHIN MONTRACHET MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE GRAND CRU 2007 (670323, $675)

DELAS FRÈRES LA LANDONNE CÔTE-RÔTIE 2009 (92197, $149)

DELAS FRÈRES LES BESSARDS HERMITAGE 2009 (92205, $149)

PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE 2009 (973735, $255)

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL HOMMAGE À JACQUES PERRIN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2009 (985622, $325)

DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE CHAUPIN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2009 (940379, $85)

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2009 (596098, $159)

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2006  (279695, $499)

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

Triassic Tasting at Pangaea

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

 April 24, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/27/triassic-tasting-at-pangaea/

Pangaea Restaurant, 1221 Bay Street, (416) 920-2323

Chef du Cuisine: Derek Bendig, Sommelier and Manager: Benjamin Hardy

 

The group of seven. Sorry. Not THE Group of Seven. This group of seven. Our new format is really taking shape. We no longer each bring wine from cellar to share. Now one leader, one cellar, nine wines. Plenty to share with Mr.’s Hardy, Bendig and crew. Seamless sally forth through five courses. Godspeed to Pangaea for an all out effort in syncopated rhythm. This tasting the high water mark (of the new era) to date, with no disrespect to what came before, but the senescence has reached the early stages of maturity. Laud and applaud to AZ for coordinating food and wine synergy. A coup de foudre from the get go.  

Nine Wine Night

Nine Wine Night

 

Amuse Bouche, radish ‘ravioli’ stuffed with chèvre, tomato, basil

Chef’s Creek (Fanny’s Bay, Vancouver Island) Oysters, on the half shell, horseradish, lemon, shallot mignonette

  1. Peninsula Ridge Fumé Blanc 2008 wants to be 1er Cru Chablis in my universe but sweats heat and spice, “green cardamom pod and roasted salsify,” adds AM. Nutty lemon custard and did someone say Boxwood? Not quite Sauvignon Blanc but PR brings out enough mineral to do this style proud up on the Bench.  88
  2. Domaine De Congy Cuvée Les Galfins Pouilly Fumé 2009 tasted blind is undoubtedly old world but the lack of grass and oak leads me to Muscadet. Wrong! Oh the marl and fossilized oysters of it all! More Sauvignon Blanc to confront my tasting demons. Solid, if not as cursive as the PR.  87

 

Ahi Tuna Tataki, seared tuna, blood orange and fennel salad, avocado pureé

  1. See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV strikes a match from the outset and never wavers. The other MG senses After Eights but for me that possibility is smothered by a leesy, cheesy lard maigre et fromage. Gismondi calls this BC bubbly “a Champagne ringer.” Not so much. Flat finish so s’ya later, “s’alright ma’, i’m only sighing.” Just tasting.  85

 

Intermezzo, grapefruit and tarragon flavoured ice

 

Quebec Duck Breast, pan-roasted, seasonal vegetables, potato rösti, game jus

  1. Fontanabianca Barbaresco Sori Burdin 2004 the blessed and confounded queen Nebbiolo is the totipotent master of the moment. Italianate yet without animale, rosy cheeked and impossibly elegant, it still manages to anesthetize the mouth. So pretty it hurts. Along with the Sori Paitin, easily the best value in Barbaresco. On this night my allegiance is to the queen.  92
  2. Renatto Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2004 of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C.  91
  3. D’arenberg Ironstone Pressings 2001 holds the title of GSM pop star of the Mclaren Vale. Eponymous iron filings and pressed fruit roll up. A mixed bag of Grenache, Syrah and Mataro, the IP’s warm, berry and balsamwood address is veiled by a touch of oxidation. “Stinky feet” corrects AM. Good integration of fruit, acidity and tannin present proper balance.  90
  4. Mas Doix Salanques 2006 is a revelation. A Pegau-esque perfume aux gasseuse leans Rhône but an amazing (65%) Garnacha sweetness veers Priorat. Iodine (Syrah and Carignan) of black slate soil, tar, smoked meat and bacon. A Parker and Galloni thesaurus of descriptors must be bequeathed on this candied (Merlot) wine loaded with acidity in magnums.  CVR** WOTN.  93

 

House Made Cheeses, goat camembert, blue haze, cloth bound cheddar, truffle tomme

  1. Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1998 would be my wine of choice walking a boulder strewn vineyard on a misty morning in the Southern Rhône. Expressions are hurled around the table, “candified Pinot nose” and “tutti frutti.” For Beaucastel? I can’t believe the tripartite fruit freshness, ambient funk immersion and pencil lead sharpness. This ’98 is “light as a feather, heavy as lead.” The Beaucastel will brighten up your tomorrow. WOTN  96
  2. Tablas Creek Espit de Beaucastel 2008 the worthy adversary is just a dude from California. A honey pot of stewed prunes and “Seville oranges” notes the quote machine. A sinkhole of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 6% Cunoise, the Esprit does admirable expatriate yeoman’s work and I wouldn’t even think of marking it zero.  88
Tasting Table

Tasting Table

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

 

 

Good to go!