Get back to Greece

Black Corinthian Raisin in early stages of veraison #manyshadesofachaia #prettyinpeloponnese

Over the past few weeks I have been getting reacquainted with some close friends. The wines of Greece. Greek wine and Godello have spent some quality time together, both at home and abroad. While in Paris last November I paid a visit to Gare au Gorille, a bistro in the Batignolles district of the 17th Arrondissement in Paris. A small but quintessential tasting was taking place; Thymiopoulos, Hatzidakis, Tetramythos and Sklavos. The tasting was a traveling extension from Oenos, a collaboration between winemakers Apostolos Thymiopoulos, Haridimos Hatzidakis, Evriviadis Sklavos and the wine trader Georgios Ioanndis.

#volcanic in Paris with #hatzidakis @DrinkGreekWine @3050imports Try it November 22nd in Toronto with @johnszaboms #aidani #assyrtiko #haridimoshatzidakis #mylos #santorini

Related – Getting into Greece

Gare au Gorille is a fine French paradoxical pun (“be careful of the gorilla) and also the title of a 1952 song by French musician Georges Brassens.  At the Paris tasting I rubbed shoulders with Greek gods, got salty with volcanic Santorini and travelled vicariously to Lixouri through endemic varietals and whimsical blends.

I highly recommend re-habituating with the new wines of Greece (which are actually the old ones) on a regular basis. The practice will take you from assyrtiko to retsina, debina to moschofilero and agiorgitiko to xinomavro. It will also transport you to places; Amyndeon to Zitsa, Nemea to Thessaloniki, Naoussa to Santorini. I’ve said it before. Greek wine is paradoxically diverse, mythically complex and critical to experiential wine blessedness.

The Greek paradox of producing great wines without anyone really knowing anything about them brings me to Zeno’s paradox of place. It was Eudemus and Alexander of Aphrodisias who bore witness and affirmation for the reconstruction of Zeno’s philosophical premise. The infinite regression goes like this: “Everything is somewhere: so places are in a place, which is in turn in a place, etc. The limitless exercise never allows you to get grounded so you end up nowhere. It was Aristotle who provided the solution. You always have to be somewhere. After all, being deprived of the possibility of saying where something is just leads to emptiness.

Red, white, rock and @DrinkGreekWine roll. Getting into old #winesofgreece with new regard.

Related – Till I reach Achaia ground

Greek wines offer a sense of being somewhere, all of them, but the challenge facing the Greek wine industry is securely fastened “in a place somewhere between the relic glow of early period brilliance and the cusp of legacy defining, career opus penning compositions. Making wine from endemic or indigenous grapes is a calling to a higher love, in spite of harsh conditions, geographical difficulties and the relative channels of global obscurity.”

The Greek dichotomy paradox leads me to the joke. A mathematician, a physicist and an engineer are asked to give an answer to the following question. One Greek vineyard is planted to endemic varietals and another to international ones. The grapes from one are brought to blend with those of the other. At which point will the ferments from the two vineyards strike a balance? The mathematician said they would never actually meet because the series is infinite. The physicist said they would meet when time equals infinity. The engineer said that within one more harvest they would be close enough for all practical purposes. The same might be said for Greek wines brought to a Toronto tasting and the locals coming to taste them.

Related – A new Greek morning

We tasted those wines at the WineAlign office, at the Royal Ontario Museum and at The LCBO’s Summerhill location with Christopher Sealy and Victory Wines and Spirits. Recurring themes and new finds were acquiesced. The wine-producing regions of Santorini (Aegean), Thessaloniki/Naoussa (Macedonia) and Nemea (Peloponnese) continue their inroads on the global scene. I noted that Achaia and Patras in the northern Peloponnese are on the verge of breaking out. The same is and will soon be said for Halkidiki, Mantinia, Zitsa, Evia, Kitherona, Imathia, Leprini, Attica, Crete, and Arkadia.

@DrinkGreekWine NOW! With @johnszabo in the RBC Glass Room #winesofgreece #EDOAO

We know by instinct that wines cast the shadow of their own destruction before them and are designed from the first with an eye to their later existence as ruins. Could this be more appropriate than when discussing the ancient and the new brought together in the wines of Greece? Unlike anywhere else Greek wines just seem to carry in their DNA a rusticity, a wisdom and a sense of age just as they are born, but they also last, linger and age longer than most anyone expects. They are to a generalization, the most especial set of regional wines in the world. To read his report that asks to drop the aristocratic pretence, please travel over to WineAlign.

Related – Wines of the People, Wines of the Place, by John Szabo, MS.

These following 53 tasting notes are all from May, a month that may as well have been dedicated to the wines of Greece. With thanks as always to Sofia Perpera, Twitter: @DrinkGreekWine, Instagram: winesofgreece and Facebook: @newwinesofgreece. I’ve four words for you babes. Get back to Greece.

2017 #winesofgreece @ROMToronto tasting highlights @DrinkGreekWine

Sparkling

Zoinos Zitsa Semi Sparkling 2016, PDO Zitsa (WineAlign)

Sparkling debina or halfway thereof is not exactly household in name for Ontario but the mountainous, high elevation locale of Epirus is a place for which, where and why sparkling wine makes sense. Grapes of high acidity come from out of a cool, windy, snow, sleet and rain kind of place. From a cooperative with maximum 11 per cent alcohol and a short time on lees, this is loaded with terpenes and dried (very gardenia) flowers The medicinal tonic is complimented by a pinch of sugar (that makes it go down) and go down with elegant ease. The lime finish is something to which you are welcome to attach a “like” emoji. Greek discovery number one. Approximately $20. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @zoinoswinery  #ZoinosWinery  @zoinoswinerysa

Kir Yianni Akakies Xinomavro Sparkling Rosé 2015, Ac Macedonia, Greece (482646, $18.95, WineAlign)

The most interesting triad of xinomavro, Amyndeon and sparkling comes through in this toasty, flinty and rusty sweet Akakies. Rosé of strawberry, raspberry, currants and mountain tea. Chill it really well and pour it at a summer reception in the sun. With Dolmades! Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted April 2017  @kiryianni  @KolonakiGroup  kiryianni  @KirYianni  @KolonakiGroup

Rosé

Lykos Winery Rosé Grenache Rouge 2016, Pgi Evia, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

The Lykos Rosé is a grenache rouge play with some merlot and is dealt the wisdom afforded by 40 year-old vines on the south part of the island. Clay soil sits overtop limestone and the aromatics borrow this straight away, at first saline and then into Rosé richness. Texture comes with a sweet and sour palate. These vines gift low yields at four tonnes per hectare and its wine follows a similar to malagousia citrus line. Quite distinct. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted March 2017  @LYKOSWINERY  lykounanalykoswineryevia  @LykosWinery

Troupis TOMH Rosé 2016, IGP Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, $18.95, WineAlign)

I tasted this magical, single-vineyard moschofilero blush on two consecutive days and each time it gave me epiphany shivers. There are few Ontario market specimens of Rosé made from a white wine grape with only minor skin contact, let’s say six to 10 hours and 24 hours maceration, which is remarkable since it is usually red wine that turns water into Rosé. But moschofilero carries pigmentation and is light-skinned so it’s best of both worlds suitable, like a perfect cross between pinot gris and for the sake of argument, pinot noir. First thought says it’s akin to a vin gris style and better off for it, celebrating a mountain terroir and allowing natural acidity to dictate the ideal. This TOMH (which may as well be an acronym for Troupis owed Moschofilero hero) helps to coax out the mineral and smells like the salinity and stone in a cave. I don’t find it overly fruity in terms of aromatics, even stoic and of high level acidity. There is faint cranberry, pomegranate and currant notes mixed with mountain tea and again, such salinity. Some residual sugar comes apparent on the palate but it’s essentially dry. Damn if moschcofilero isn’t ideally suited to Rosé and this TOMH will age a bit. Drink 2017-2019.   Tasted May 2017  @TroupisWinery    @VictoryWine  troupiswinery  victorywineandspiritsinc  @troupis.winery  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  

Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro 2014, PGI Macedonia, Greece (Agent, $22.95, WineAlign)

Thymipoloupos fashions a wholly different sort of Rosé, using the thicker skinned and more direct xinomavro as the man, so a masculine blush this is, full of tang and at first, a medium-dry meets cordial intensity. So much strawberry comes across the tongue but with dusty savour and then the salinity kicks in to bite the sweetness. This is very long and not so many make Rosé like this. Even just a touch in the oxidative way. At the present time varietal, climate, geography and vintage directs the style but adjustments will be made along the way. The formula will refine and in turn reveal some singular Greek Rosé. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @thymiopoulosvin  @VictoryWine  @winesofnaoussa  apostolosthymiopoulos  eletsi  victorywineandspiritsinc  Eleftheria Tsitsipa  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  @WinesofNaoussa

Whites

Assyrtiko

Lykos Winery Assyrtiko 2016, Pgi Kitherona, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

Assyrtiko thrives beyond Santorini, here in the diaspora locale of Kitherona, at 450m on the slopes near Thebes. The terroir is stony shale with good drainage and the usual mineral strike is fattened up a touch but also quite reductive and far from shedding the barrel. The 15 years old vines are now just coming into play and owning the grapes. After nine months it went into medium toast French (300L) oak barrels for four months, to broaden horizons in a whole new way of looking at assyrtiko. Such smoulder and leesy texture reminds of Melgaço’s Anselmo Mendes and his barrel-aged alvarinho. Plenty of lemon juices over the finish. Drink 2018-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @LYKOSWINERY  lykounanalykoswineryevia  @LykosWinery

Lyrarakis Vóila Assyrtiko 2016, Crete, Greece (Agent, $18.95, WineAlign)

Certainly Cretan but no cretan this assryrtiko from relatively high altitude (580m) at the eastern part of Crete is a light and slightly resinous white with plenty of herbs and nice varietal spice. The citrus dominates the palate but the finish retains to mountain tea and fish complimenting leaves. Nicely done, clean, modern and a good take on the grape. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @lyrarakis  @MajesticWineInc  @winesofcrete  lyrarakiswines  majesticwinesinc  winesofcrete  @LyrarakisWines  @majesticwinecellars

Santo Wines Assrytiko Organic 2016, PDO Santorini, Greece (Agent, $20.00, WineAlign)

Assyrtiko as only it can be, from a place reborn of a massive volcanic thrush in phases, covering the island in a 60-70m layer of stony, rocky pumice. One of the fuller and more concentrated assyrtiko with fruit juicing in and out of the bleeding lava stone. Still a water starved expression as it has to be from its harsh growing climate, a thick-skinned, drought resistant and managed, naturally selected grape. All this portends to make this expression all that much more incredible, of salty, palpable extract, linear and yet magically delicious. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted May 2017  @santo_wines  @Santoriniwines  @KolonakiGroup  santo_wines  winesfromsantorini  kolonakigroup  @SantoWines  @WinefromSantorini

Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2016, PDO Santorini, Greece (Agent, $22.95, WineAlign)

At Sigalas the eponymous estate σοδειά (annata, vintage, etc.) is assyrtiko, solo assyrtiko, in stainless steel, four months on lees and from 2016, a rich vintage. It’s actually a big vintage, a huge vintage for quantity and quality replete with a fineness from those lees which really compound the mineral butter of this assyrtiko. Like 2011 and more. While the specialized village-specific assyrtiko from Sigalas are each their own sort of exceptional snowflakes, it is this broad yet precise swath of volcanic Santorini that defines the producer and the place. There is no excuse for not drinking a bottle of this wine at least three times a year. Drink 2017-2022.  Tasted March 2017  @DomaineSigalas  @MajesticWineInc  domainesigalas  @DomaineSigalas  Panayiota Kalogeropoulou

Argyros Assyrtiko Estate 2015, PDO Santorini, Greece (Agent, $23.95, WineAlign)

It must first be noted that the fruit in this Argyros bottle comes from 150-plus year-old ungrafted vines in Episkopi on (and it can’t be overstated) volcanic and sandy soil. It’s 100 per cent assyrtiko raised in 80 per cent stainless steel and 20 French oak for six months. The tenacity of assyrtiko vines built up from lava soil and the steadfast grip mixed with some barrel cream puts this in a singular category for white wine. It never forgets from whence and where it came but it takes grippy, piercing and citrus-stone character to another next level. Not to knock previous vintages but in here there is great structure and the stainless to wood compendium puts it in an ionic to corinthian entablature. Low yields, assyrtiko, a volcano, architecture and impeccable balance bring this all together. Drink 2018-2025.  Tasted May 2017    @Santoriniwines  @KolonakiGroup  #argyrosestate  winesfromsantorini  kolonakigroup  @ArgyrosEstate  @WinefromSantorini  @KolonakiGroup

Gaia Wines Thalassitis Santorini 2016, PDO Santorini, Greece (315010, $32.95, WineAlign)

Thalassitis is Gaia’s original wine, first produced in 1994 and the onomatopoeia in the nomenclature is in ode to Homer. The poet referred to Gaia’s Nemea (in the Peloponnese) as Ampeloessa, meaning “full of vines.” The searing and intense endemic to Santorini assyrtiko also carries some impressive weight (on a 13 per cent alcohol frame) with repeated shots of lime and formidable black pumice grit. See ’tis the sound of thalassitis and assyrtiko which mimics its searing and volcanic calescent character. The words sound like the sea to repeat the rhetorical effect. Definitive assyrtiko so easy to swallow. Drink 2017-2022.  Tasted May 2017  @GaiaWines  @Smallwinemakers  @Santoriniwines  gaiawines  #smallwinemakerscollection  winesfromsantorini   @GaiaWinesGR  @smallwinemakerscollection  @WinefromSantorini

Domaine Sigalas Kavalieros 2015, PDO Santorini, Greece (Agent, SAQ 11814421, $31.00, WineAlign)

I’ve not yet tasted the Kavalieros 2014, so this single-vineyard, 18 months on lees done in stainless steel Kavalieros 2015 made by “Mr. George” is the benchmark for Santorini, assrytiko and salty white wines everywhere. The first release was 2009. Straight up and turning the world on its head, like the old man on the label and upside down against Apollo’s Aegean Cyclades. This ’15 richer still, more than the seven villages wines and a hyperbole as compared to the entry-level assyrtiko, of deeper mineral, compressed, layered and fantastic. Crushed rocks permeate in aggregate, it’s quixotically saline and textured, of intense presence and finally, structured. For 15 years at least. A late shot of natural Santorini tonic swirls in centrifuge with assyrtiko so wound up. This will need 10 years to unwind and allow for cracks to form in the mineral shell, followed by the birth of its fruit. It should never be forgotten that assyrtiko can and will show fruit but with Kavalieros you’ll have to be patient. Drink 2020-2031.  Tasted March 2017  @DomaineSigalas  @MajesticWineInc  domainesigalas  @DomaineSigalas  Panayiota Kalogeropoulou

Santo Wines Grande Reserve 2014, PDO Santorini, Greece (Agent, $40.95, WineAlign)

Santo’s Grand Reserve is a special assyrtiko in its own class. It shares an affinity with other volcanic whites of Santorini in that it comes from selected vines, many 100 years of age or more and it is that mineral-gifting, salty giving soil that speaks of place. But in the case of Santo’s GR we are talking about assyrtiko that spent 12 months in French barrels so the texture and flavour compounds are directed into crème frâiche, island garrigue and tea. The classic Santorini rock and stone is never abandoned or oppressed but the lactic-milky notes are quite present. The citrus too seems less electric, more compressed and the level of tang, whether from lava or by wood spice, is very prevalent. This reminds me of what happens when a winemaker like Anselmo Mendes adds a year of barrel aging to Alvarinho, though in this case the volcano always offers the balance to keep things honest and real. This will age for a long time. Drink 2018-2028.  Tasted May 2017  @santo_wines  @Santoriniwines  @KolonakiGroup  santo_wines  winesfromsantorini  kolonakigroup  @SantoWines  @WinefromSantorini

Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko Single Village Collection Pyrgos 2016, PDO Santorini, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

This particular locale from the “7” collection is from Pyrgos Village, an assyrtiko on the lees for one year in stainless. The collection are drawn from the villages (all seven of them represented), 1000 bottles per village and only sold by the case. The first vintage of this seven strong is a direct into the micro-place investigation, into what separates one from the next, with a range of altitudes and harvest dates and brace yourself for the news. August 20th is the last one! This Pyrgos is rich and intensely mineral, of wow factor intensity, deeply round and rolling, swelling in waves of Aegean acidity. Fine-spun citrus, of lemon without description, like the sea, its creatures and their freshness, with a zest and a pierce of that lemon. Drink 2017-2024.  Tasted March 2017  @DomaineSigalas  @MajesticWineInc  domainesigalas  @DomaineSigalas  Panayiota Kalogeropoulou

Fascinations with @troupiswinery & @thymiopoulosvin and some Greek geology @DrinkGreekWine

Malagousia

Domaine Porto Carras Malagousia 2016, PGI Halkidiki, Greece (WineAlign)

From Greece’s largest organic vineyard on the western coasts of Sithonia their malagousia is emblematic of a varietal story, of a lost grape, revived in the 70s and 80s. It is here that easier ripening happens and the wines can reach 13.5-14.0 per cent alcohol but with a rich forest acting as a barrier to the sea, trapping cool air and protecting the vineyards from summer heat. Highly aromatic, anti-oxidative and dynamic, like peach potage in syrup, of orchard fruit, an oily palate and a portage of melted alloy sensation. It is both mineral and fat at the same time. Even a bit chewy. Needs a big chill. Drink 2017-2019. Tasted May 2017  @PortoCarrasWine  Domaine Porto Carras  @DomainePortoCarras

Lykos Winery Malagousia 2016, Pgi Evia, Greece (WineAlign)

Lykos Winery was started in 1989, twenty years after Apostolos Lykos’ grandfather had already been using athiri and savatiano for his restaurant, which at the time had 17 seats but has since grown to 1000. Here malagousia explodes with aromatica, it’s rich and viscous with thanks to the island’s southern portion at Halkida. From a climate affected by two seas, so it’s both herbal and fuelled by lemon preserve, so Greek yes but so specific to this place. The acidity has terrific temper, tang and the wet, soft metal is felt. Vineyards at 200m are a mere 12 years-old. Just wait. Drink 2017-2019. Tasted March 2017  @LYKOSWINERY   lykounanalykoswineryevia  @LykosWinery

Y’all should think about pouring this @DrinkGreekWine #malagousia #bytheglass #megaspileo #cavino #achaia #peloponnese #Prowein #prowein2017

Domain Mega Spileo Malagousia 2016, PGI Achaia, Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, WineAlign)

The domain with the awe-inspiring, breathtaking vineyards set in a bowl below the medieval monastery has fashioned a malagousia worthy of Achaia and no restaurant list should discount how much pleasure it can bring. White wine rarely gives away so freely of salty, sweet and tart fruit juice, as if this Mega Spileo was juiced straight from the peach, plum, lemon and lime trees. There are no frivolous bells and whistles here, only natural free run juice within the context of how the varietal is expressed in Achaia. Northern Peloponnese cool altitude character right here. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted March 2017    @apostolosGW  #MegaSpileo  Apostolos Gerakinis

Domaine Tetramythos Malagousia 2016, PGI Achaia, Peloponnese, Greece (SAQ 12910335, $17.95, WineAlign)

Malagousia from Achaia brings the goods and again magnified by the vintage a level of this specific juicy richness. This was fermented in higher temperatures to avoid 2015’s problematic alcoholic fermentation. As a result the impressed and increased humidity translates to the faux-botrytis, peachy sauvignon blanc thing and then the acidity and citrus just take over,. The palate is pure classic malagousia, possessive of great low pH and high natural acidity. This 2016 is crispy but more aromatic than usual. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

Taverna Toxotis, Düsseldorf

Moschofilero

Semeli Feast Moschofilero 2014, Peloponnese, Greece (477562, $12.95, WineAlign)

The hang time and extraction seem for one, delayed and two, pressed for success. There is a decidedly ripe yet slightly oxidative note on this moschofilero from the Peloponnese, a hint of banana and another one that m makes one think of guava. The palate brings a coiffed citrus and plenty of sour tang. Served warm this will not thrill but with obvert chill and grilled fish it will do just fine. Drink 2017.  Tasted May 2017  @SemeliWines     #semeliwines  #artisanalwineimports  @SemeliWines  @artisanalwineimports

Boutari Moschofilero 2016, Mantinia, Greece (172387, $13.25, WineAlign)

If heights have anything to do with adding some favour and complexity into the success of moschofilero than the 650m of clay soils for Boutari’s bottling launch from a good place. Altitude does in fact bring some extra added texture and it is the palate that wins big. Classic yellow stone fruit, citrus and glade are part of the aromatic profile. The mouthfeel is nicely delicate and then you get the wooly, fuzzy and mouth coating feel. Finishes quick but for the price, as expected. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @boutari  @KolonakiGroup  boutariwines  kolonakigroup  @boutariwines  @KolonakiGroup

Tasting day @winealign

Skouras Moschofilero 2016, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (442178, $15.25, WineAlign)

The Skouras Moschofilero is grown at 700-750m up on the cool locale of the Mantinia Plateau. The depth in colour of the skins can turn out a hue not unlike pinot gris or gewürztraminer and the skins’ texture makes contact so very doable. A hint of though well short of the idea is the approach here, highly aromatic but also lactic. Rosewater and rose petal on the terpenic nose are joined by seminal acidity. The palate adds lemon, lime and grapefruit though stays south of the bitter pith agency. Quite clean, reductive even, of a stainless stylistic and cool. Finishes with lemon polish, certainly a lighter version of dry gewürztraminer but also connected to riesling and the aforementioned pinot gris. A chameleon and very versatile. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017 @DOMAINESKOURAS  @KolonakiGroup  skourasdomaine  @KolonakiGroup  @domaineskouras

Troupis Fteri Moschofilero 2016, IGP Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece (392936, $16.95, WineAlign)

Fteri from Yiannis Troupis is more than just a matter of the rich extract bringing the classic faux sugary aromatics, of sugar pears and moschcofilero’s wild scent. It’s also a spring feeling, of unfurling fiddleheads and their herbal-vegetal, early spring freshness before turning into a pungent fern (Fteri). Such a refreshing white with a two month quick dance in the barrel. Terrific quality from altitude that pushes some salivating acidity thanks to the elevation and all in all over delivers quality at the next step up from entry level. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017  @TroupisWinery  @VictoryWine  troupiswinery  victorywineandspiritsinc  @troupis.winery  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  

Troupis Moschofilero 2016, PDO Mantinia, Greece (463422, $18.95, WineAlign)

Fteri from Yiannis Troupis is more than just a matter of the rich extract bringing the classic faux sugary aromatics, of sugar pears and moschcofilero’s wild scent. It’s also a spring feeling, of unfurling fiddleheads and their herbal-vegetal, early spring freshness before turning into a pungent fern (Fteri). Such a refreshing white with a two month quick dance in the barrel. Terrific quality from altitude that pushes some salivating acidity thanks to the elevation and all in all over delivers quality at the next step up from entry level. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017  @TroupisWinery  @VictoryWine  troupiswinery  victorywineandspiritsinc  @troupis.winery  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  

Muscat

Domaine Tetramythos Muscat Sec Blanc Nature 2016, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

If you want to learn anything about breaking through boundaries, magical realism and the pragmatic confidence of a winemaker like Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos than this is the wine for you. Muscat de (extreme) petit grains’ higher level of protein gives it the ability to stabilize earlier, yet don’t think this is a wine without risk or complexity, which is why so many others should use it and make it this way. Great natural acidity again, as always with this producer, pure essence of lemon and what lemon will bring. Like 2014 that acidity and the dry extract are in this vacuum, so this just sucks the moisture from the mouth. Please be patient and wait for the great tart lemon of this Muscat dpg which means “something great” to speak to you. Oh would I like to see this grape and this style done in Ontario. Dry extract and tannin at its white wine finest. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

The inimitable @tetramythos @DrinkGreekWine of Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos @Prowein #naturalacidity #roditis #retsina #muscat #blancnature #malagousia #Prowein #prowein2017

Roditis

Domaine Tetramythos Roditis 2016, PDO Patras, Greece (Agent, $14.95, WineAlign)

The roditis 2016 is a product of a sluggish fermentation, of almost 100 days, plus malolactic that began half way through. As a result it mixes lemon blossom with mineral and goes more unctuous than some other vintages. The complexity and structure are high on the Tetramythos scale. This is the organic bottling, as opposed to the PGI Peloponnese natural. Drink 2017-2020.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

Domaine Tetramythos Roditis 2015, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, $17.95, WineAlign)

Roditis 2015 is the natural one, racked from the top and finally now settled (so at this time of tasting 2016 is not yet in bottle but at this time of writing should already be as it always does in April). This is the cleanest and purest of the natural wines on the planet, low in pH, high of natural acidity and without a care in the world. With nothing to fear in regards to spoilage it can go on its own personal shopping spree, accumulate character, personality and confidence with the end result being that there is more of everything in the natural one. It’s terrifically repeatable, replicable and clonal acidity makes it quite trippy, stepping on and igniting the light fantastic’s wire. You just have to take a stab in the dark with winemaker Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos’ roditis. Or ye have not yet lived. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

Domaine Tetramythos Retsina 2016, PGI Achaia, Peloponnese, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

The Tetramythos Retsina is made from roditis but can’t be labeled as such, why, because of perfectionist interests and bureaucracy. This is most certainly not the roditis you know, or think you know. This emerges unscathed and in a happy place from out of a natural fermentation and then amphora raised. The cognitive absence of resin and evergreen over-attention is replaced by a conifer funk and a thyme-rosemary herbal meld, but it’s all so faint and subtle. Lots of lemon and even some orange notes are part of the aromatic mix. The texture transfer is seamless and all is calm, a reflection of the maker and the gracious proprietors. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

Savatiano

Papagiannakos Savatiano Vieilles Vignes 2016, Attica, Greece (Agent, $17.65, WineAlign)

From Attica the old vines do elevate savatiano to a fine level, above and beyond the pale and the ecru. Bottled exactly a year ago I am glad this has had time for the deep citrus and acidity to mellow a touch, leaving this in a perfect drinking window right now. This is more aromatic than you might think, of lime juice, fresh thai basil and the inside of a beeswax-lined concrete tank. I find this quite complex in those terms and then fine if light on the palate. Must be from a tight and cloudy ferment, locked in and wrapped with great protection in its environment, like in a womb, with some semillon-esque, waxy character, gassy and aerified I can see this developing some honey post green figs and lime though it is broader on the palate with some honey dew adding to the green fig. Really needs grilled fish and a good chill. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted May 2017  @vpapagiannakos  @MajesticWineInc  papagiannakos  majesticwinesinc  Papagiannakos Wines  @majesticwinecellars

Vidiano

Karavitakis Winery Klima Vidiano 2015, Crete, Greece (Agent, $23.00, WineAlign)

Klima, Greek for climate but also grapevine. Vidiano, indigenous to Crete, Chania to be specific, the Venetian Harbour, on the north coast. What the varietal brings (as opposed to let’s say to assyrtiko) is a tropical aroma profile and a fruitiness that the mineral one does not normally do. The peach-apricot-nectarine thing is almost like pinot gris but this is Greece so don’t be fooled. Rocks, stones and ancient script can’t help but define the line and the architecture of the wine. There is firm grip on the palate and because it grabs hold and holds on, this lingers for quite some time. I really like that length. Drink 2017-2020.  Tasted May 2017  @karavitakiswine  @VictoryWine  #karavitakiswinery  victorywineandspiritsinc Nikos Karavitakis  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.

Pop goes the world. Tasting #popart #evia with Dimitrios @LykosWinery #prowein2017

White Blends

Lykos Winery Pop Art White 2016, Pgi Evia, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

Pop Art White combines the round and ripe ideals of athiri with aromatic malagousia and at 12 per cent alcohol is light, bright and yet has some weight to it. As much lime as lemon (so it must be the athiri that gives the lime), so easy and consumable (though I am actually quite partial it the sister red) but this represents terrific value for straight up grilled fish. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted March 2017  @LYKOSWINERY  lykounanalykoswineryevia  @LykosWinery

Seméli Oreinos Helios White 2016, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (477554, $16.95, WineAlign)

The increasingly complimentary bedfellows of moschofilero and sauvignon blanc get together in this Seméli white for aromatic genius, faux botrytis heaven and dry extract success. Though this dries out with its unusually formidable grape tannin there is a linger of citrus and peach juicy elastic plasticity that is just great. Wonderful and playful Peloponnese value. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017  @SemeliWines     #semeliwines  #artisanalwineimports  @SemeliWines  @artisanalwineimports

 

Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko Athiri 2016, Santorini, Greece (Agent, $19.90, WineAlign)

The double A is an assyrtiko (75 per cent) and athiri blend, the latter helping to gift access for earlier drinking. Never wavers from its aromatic roots and necessity. Citrus bitters are prevalent but in the lithest way and only really in design to draw it all together. So drinkable but does not forget that its primary responsibility is tethered to an assyrtiko injunction. For people who don’t quite understand the mineral way or the highway. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017  @DomaineSigalas  @MajesticWineInc  domainesigalas  @DomaineSigalas  Panayiota Kalogeropoulou

Wine Art Techni Alipias White 2016, Drama, Greece (Agent, $20.95, WineAlign)

Techni Alipias is primarily sauvignon blanc (80 per cent) mixed with assyrtiko and the nomenclature tells us this wine speaks to the art of “helping people forget their sorrows.” The vines are found near Mt. Pangeon, a Dionysian cult locale now in the land of Drama. The drama in this blend is subtle, the aromas all about citrus and the texture quite a mouthful to contend with. A highly distracting wine so if you are having a bad day this will do the trick with its tragicomedy mix of tart fruit and round acidity. Drink it with fried little fishes and calamari. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @wineartestate  @KolonakiGroup  wine_art_estate  kolonakigroup  @wine.artestate  @KolonakiGroup

Reds

Agiorgitiko

Domaine Vassiliou Agiorgitiko 2008, PDO Nemea, Greece (WineAlign)

Vassilou’s Nemea agiorgitiko delves even deeper into the fig, raisin and old wood, comparable to an old school reserva tempranillo stylistic. It’s certainly got a musty note in a cool, sheltered from the storm, inside a cave stalactite and stalagmite way. Burnt orange is the dominant flavour in what is ostensibly and seriously rustic stuff. The fruit dries out with leafy compost yet structure and therefore age ability is king. Drink 2017-2020.  Tasted May 2017  @VassiliouNemeio  #domainevassiliou  Domaine Vassiliou – Nemeion Estate / Κτήμα Βασιλείου – Κτήμα Νέμειον

Lykos Winery Kratistos 2013, Pdo Nemea, Greece (Agent, $18.95, WineAlign)

Kratistos PDO Nemea 2013 is 100 per cent agiorgitiko and one of the first wines produced by Apostolos and Athena (Nana) Lykou. As per the marriage of varietal and place it takes a statist approach, with rusty and developed fruit, of strawberry, raspberry and red currant that takes a savoury turn. And then it silkens on the palate, as expected. This really helps to define and perpetuate the Greek red religion, drinkable and ageable, agreeable and to prudence by stashing some away. This is the Lykos high end agiorgitiko, one year in barrel with six types of barrels employed, all with varying toasts. Great length and the wood is merely a conduit of spice, texture and length. Really well done and shows that this winemaker has a way with reds. Drink 2018-2022.  Tasted March 2017  @LYKOSWINERY  lykounanalykoswineryevia  @LykosWinery

Troupis Fteri Agiorgitiko 2015, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, $18.95, WineAlign)

Fteri from Yiannis Troupis is bright and ripe for the oft dusty and cured St. George, here in clean, pure, crisp form. Seemingly void of dried fruit, out of tank and no barrel, this is the fresh maker, ready for the here and now. It’s just bloody delicious, of plums and cherries, refreshing and miles from rustic. At $16 back up the truck because this could be the gamay or sangiovese of your summer dreams, or a marriage of the two. remarkable. Luminous, naturally fortified by dry extract and sweet tannin favour. The final cut is the chew, like a bite into a rare steak with no game. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @TroupisWinery  @VictoryWine  troupiswinery  victorywineandspiritsinc  @troupis.winery  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc. 

Skouras Saint George Agiorgitiko 2013, AOP Nemea, Greece (Agent, $19.95, WineAlign)

Both Saint George and Aghiorhitiko grace the label (not agiorgitiko) in this juicy and rambling red, full of tangy red fruit and bright, if quite vivid acidity. There is a good amount of chew and then some baking spice bite on the quick finish. Drink 2017-2018.  Tasted May 2017  @DOMAINESKOURAS  @KolonakiGroup  skourasdomaine  @KolonakiGroup  @domaineskouras

Gaia Agiorgitiko Nemea 2015, Greece (Agent, $21.30, WineAlign)

From Koutsi in Nemea, Gaia’s 100 per cent agiorgitiko is wonderfully dusty, ripe and modern, like clean and pure merlot in a way, with mulberry and raspberry fruit notes followed by bushy mountain savour. There is this perfectly tidy sour tang on the palate that mingles nicely with the early dusty and leathery notes, creating a kind of agiorgitiko liqueur that only it can exude. It’s like Rosso di Montalcino or more like Tuscan IGT (with merlot adding to sangiovese). A chewy and crunchy mouthful to be sure and blessed with a shot of bitters and very good length. Drink 2018-2021.  Tasted May 2017  @GaiaWines  @Smallwinemakers  gaiawines  @GaiaWinesGR  @smallwinemakerscollection

Ktima Papaioannou Single Vineyard Old Vines Agiorgitiko 2010, Nemea, Greece (Agent, $33.95, WineAlign)

The oldest vines from the endemic Nemea grape are chosen for this 17,000 bottle lot, an agiorgitiko of native charm and relevant substance. Substantial in fruit and beautifully rustic, dried fruit and potpourri aromas, the texture is complacently integrated now ten years after bottling. The happy blues of its notes are sung with painless refrain, with cedar, leather, resin and fine-spun acidity all rolled in, some baking spice and the tonic abilities of aperitifs. The vegetal component is not green but it is an oxidative style, pretty, woody and wild. A spoonful or a cupful, whichever your pleasure, will do just fine. “Could fill spoons full of coffee, could fill spoons full of tea. Just a little spoon of your precious love; Is that enough for me?” Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017    @KolonakiGroup  @KolonakiGroup

Cabernet Sauvignon

Domain Mega Spileo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, $27.95, WineAlign)

Such varietal accuracy is an exceptionality of Stelios Tsiris’ “Megali Ambelos,” great vineyard gifted cabernet sauvignon. The plateau narrative spoken at 800m along the Diakofto-Kalavrita Road above Vouraikos canyon is not unlike the endemic vernacular but with a firm handshake and bold tannin. The palate is silky and pleasantly savoury, then tart but intensely so. The alcohol measures 15 per cent but is handled with refined power. Like Stelios there is a gentle, polite and powerful confidence with length to scamper up and down the Vouraikos slopes, up to the monastery and back. We’re also dealing with 15-20 years of possibility. Mega Spileo’s is one of the top Greek cabernet sauvignon. Two are better than one. Drink 2017-2026.  Tasted March 2017    @apostolosGW  #MegaSpileo  Apostolos Gerakinis

Limniona

Tsililis Limniona 2013, PGI Meteora, Greece (WineAlign)

Limniona is the newest of discoveries, a highly aromatic red, with dried fruit like agiorgitiko, but here from Theopetra Estate in Thessaly, Northern (Central) Greece. There is a minty peach and pomegranate aromatic and texture in a real stretched, elastic and bounce back way, with structure like nebbiolo but with more intense poly-phenolic character. I don’t find this bretty or funky at all but rather as a wild floral and fruit display like a rustic Langhe, with dust and diesel. It’s also savoury like cabernet franc and of something nutty (like Nutella), which is really the barrel talking in smooth ganache chocolate lingo. You’ve got to try this. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017    #theopetraestate

Tetramythos Winery

Mavro Kalavryta

Domaine Tetramythos Kalavryta 2016, PGI Achaia, Peloponnese, Greece (SAQ 11885457, $17.05, WineAlign)

This mavro kalavryta repeats the same alcohol and acidity as 2014 and the tune sees no change. Once again we are graced with a back up the track, gamay-nerello mascalese-cabernet franc-fresh tempranillo vein, still so fresh and even minor reductive and chewy. So freakin’ delicious. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted March 2017  @Tetramythos  #tetramythoswines  @tetramythoswines  Devon Masciangelo

A sneak peek of @thymiopoulosvin ’15’s was reason enough to fly all the way to #paris #gareaugorille #rapsani #xinomavro #terreetciel #earthandsky #apostolosthymiopoulos

Xinomavro

Boutari Grande Reserve Naoussa 2010, Naoussa, Greece (140111, $17.95, WineAlign)

Naoussa Xinomavro with six years of age is just a baby, seemingly evolved but in so many ways, anything but. The fruit aromas are dried, from raisin to fig and the accents are all kalamata olive and date. This has real drying tannins and a savoury, dusty, musty feel. In 2010 it’s still very good, cementing more legacy defining consistency, but it’s not the best ever. Drink 2016-2020.  Tasted April 2016 and May 2017  @boutari  @KolonakiGroup  @DrinkGreekWine  @winesofnaoussa

Thymiopoulos Xinomavro 2014, PDO Naoussa, Greece (Agent, $19.95, WineAlign)

There is certainly more earth than sky this time around, probably because you couldn’t see it through all the rain. In a tough (and nearly disastrous) vintage that will test a winemaker’s mettle, it’s a good thing to have some history in pocket to draw upon and help pull you through. “My family has always been growing grapes,” tells Apostolos Thymiopoulos. They sold off their crop to other wineries but that changed in 2003 when Apostolos returned from having finished his oenology studies. His father was a long time practitioner of organics and Apostolos didn’t know why but today he knows and is thankful for it. Healthy vineyards, low yields and a father’s acumen now help to plough through adversity. The declassified fruit (with no Earth and Sky produced) sees the volatility and acidity down in ’14, but there is no compromise to the purity from a pure terroir. Texture and complex flavours are also compromised but again, purity can never be denied. Drink this honest, direct, ruby, deep rosey and ropey xinomavro for the next two years while both the haughty ’13 and ’15 bottles of Earth and Sky rest, evolve and eventually settle into their skins. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted November 2016 and May 2017  @thymiopoulosvin  @VictoryWine  @winesofnaoussa  apostolosthymiopoulos  eletsi  victorywineandspiritsinc  Eleftheria Tsitsipa  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  @WinesofNaoussa

Thymiopoulos Young Vines Xinomavro 2015, PDO Naoussa, Greece (Agent, $20.00, WineAlign)

Here is the Naoussa little angel xinomavro affiche sans barrel, just pure, unadulterated, elastic and playful fruit in a glass. The xinomavro that everyone should know and love, enjoy with reckless, gulpable abandon and put seriousness aside. From 2015, a “3000 per cent better vintage than ’14” says Apostolos Thymiopoulos with a smile of relief and bounce back determination. There was some rain but not too hard so this Young Vines is able and enterprising to dance the passionate Thymiopoulos two-step, from the earth and with a momentary gaze up to the sky. The last thing you need to know is how lithe and ethereal this is, like pinot noir, in Naoussa, with xinomavro. Drink 2017-2020.  Tasted May 2017  @thymiopoulosvin  @VictoryWine  @winesofnaoussa  apostolosthymiopoulos  eletsi  victorywineandspiritsinc  Eleftheria Tsitsipa  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  @WinesofNaoussa

Thymiopoulos Terre Et Ciel Xinomavro Unfiltered 2015, PDO Naoussa, Greece (Agent, $35.23, WineAlign)

The Thymiopoulos estate vineyards are located in two villages, Trilofos and Fytia. The blend of the two is this flagship xinomavro, Yn Kai Oupavós. Known to us mere western mortals as Earth and Sky, the organic one from Apostolos Thymiopoulos and Eleftheria Tsitsipas picks up where the cherry chewy and very elongated 2013 left off (because 2014 was a difficult and therefore declassified vintage). The house habit of natural fermentation allows xinomavro to do the natural habitat, naturalist’s way, to look into the grape’s mirror and see its reflection naked, pure and clear. This is my second tasting of the ’15 Earth and Sky and though it continues to show some volatility (in the most beneficial way) it has settled (since November) and is now developing its second skin. The leathery hide was quite tough to begin and now gives off a sheen and sweet perfume that only this wine can gift. It also delivers a shot of honeyed, microbial goodness (in the context of its seamless package) with dance party energy. You will taste few wines like this and have not lived until you do. There is genius in this developing story, still in its infancy and on the road to legendary. Mythical even. One for and with the vine. Drink 2018-2028.  Tasted November 2016 and May 2017  @thymiopoulosvin  @VictoryWine  @winesofnaoussa  apostolosthymiopoulos  eletsi  victorywineandspiritsinc  Eleftheria Tsitsipa  Victory Wine & Spirits Inc.  @WinesofNaoussa

Red Blends

Domain Mega Spileo III Cuvée 2014, PGI Achaia, Peloponnese, Greece (Agent, $19.95, WineAlign)

The three varietal blend breaks down as mavrodafne and cabernet sauvignon (40 per cent each) plus agiorgitiko. The liquid chalk shapes into classic Achaia red wine though the mavrodaphne really stands apart. The notes of orange, pomegranate, currant and cranberry develop their combined keen sense of locale tartness. This carries sensory development and a right meets proper sheen, where old and new school meet at the twain. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017    @apostolosGW  #MegaSpileo  Apostolos Gerakinis

Domaine Mercouri Red 2014, Vin De Pays Des Letrinon, Greece (213388, $18.70, WineAlign)

A blend of refosco and mavrodaphne, the IGP Leprini from Mercouri is oaky western Peloponnese rusticity at its finest. The nose is wild red berry simple syrup mixed with high-tonal volatility and new leather. The palate follows the thread, like rustic garnacha from Aragon and then a shot of adrenaline mixed with absinthe bitters. For fans of the deep smoky and oaky Greek style. Drink 2017-2019.  Tasted May 2017

Spiropoulos Porfyros 2013, Peloponnese, Greece (252147, $19.85, WineAlign)

The expatriate Bordeaux grapes cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot join with organic agiorgitioko for a dark, hematic, ferric and rustic red, of more barrel than fruit. It’s hard to get past the wood, in fact the high-toned and wild-eyed hopeful fruit is suffocated under that milkshake sheathing. The attempt here is more west coast California than anything else but the result is savoury-syrupy and overly sour acidic in the end. If you like it earthy, robust and glossy then by all means. A deep braise of lamb shanks would help the cause. Drink 2018-2021.  Tasted May 2017

Askitikos Red 2013, Thessalia, Greece (485938, $19.95, WineAlign)

This is a highly modern blend of agiorgitiko, syrah and cabernet sauvignon from Thessalia with plenty of ripeness, dark fruit notes and ample wood spice. It carries quite the moderate temper and nice balance between fruit and acidity with easy on the palate tannin. Nothing shocking or out of the ordinary and could be from just about anywhere in Greece. Drink 2017-20219.  Tasted April 2017    #askitikos

Gaia Wines “S” 2014, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (AgentWineAlign)

From the Koutsi hillside, the sensory blend is agiorgitiko (70 per cent) and syrah, a stunning, speculative, modern Greek paradoxical study. Youthful, tannic and structured, here comes the sun from Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, with eyes, mouth and mind wide open. Antinori’s Tignanello may be the inspiration but this Super Nemea is all Greece. Black fruit and silky texrure as expected but once again, the place is the dynamic and the answer to the illimitable mystery. Drink 2017-2023.  Tasted May 2017  @GaiaWines  @Smallwinemakers  gaiawines  #smallwinemakerscollection  @GaiaWinesGR  @smallwinemakerscollection  

Mega Spileo Monastery

Domain Mega Spileo Red 2010, Peloponnese, Greece (466110, $29.95, WineAlign)

From one of the great vineyards in the Peloponnese, or all of Europe for that matter, Mega Spileo (Grand Cave) is set within a dramatically oriented steppe of an amphitheatre, in a bowl beneath the shadow of a 940m rock that houses the great Greek Orthodox monastery of Mega Spileo. Nowhere else in the Chelmos mountains does monk viticulture resonate as it does here. Perched above the Vouraikos Canyon at 800m of height, the vineyard sits like a slowly lowered field, dropped down past the granite walls to settle in its place. Winemaker Stelios Tsiris makes this ambitious Greek red, with generous old oak fashion and despite its dried fruit and old, dry tar personality, its spirit is lifted with great Greek acidity. It’s rustic, deferential and so interesting to behold. Drink 2017-2020.  Tasted January 2017

Kir Yianni Two Olives 2013, PGI Imathia, Greece (Agent, $33.95, WineAlign)

“Dyo Elies,” or two olives is a blend of syrah, merlot and xinomavro from Naoussa, ripe, sheathed in beneficial oak and ripping with sweet and sour acidity. This is a decidedly firm and grippy blend, quite tannic and with length for days. The moniker is quite apropos because this solicits thoughts of those typical Mediterranean notes, of black olive and garrigue. I’m not sure the olives is so approachable yet, even at four years from harvest and would suggest waiting a further two (or even four) to dig in. Drink 2019-2024.  Tasted May 2017  @kiryianni  @KolonakiGroup  kiryianni  kolonakigroup  @KirYianni  @KolonakiGroup

Black Corinthian Raisin in early stages of veraison #manyshadesofachaia #prettyinpeloponnese

Good to go!

Godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

A new Greek morning

Smythe Park

Smythe Park

Every day brings a new morning when wine tasting in on the schedule. There are many tasters, writers, critics and Sommeliers who do not love working in such a way, tasting wine so early in the day. A table full of jammy Shiraz or warm vintage Bordeaux might scare me too but a Greek tasting? In. There. Any time, night or day. Bring it on.

If you have not recently acquainted or re-acquainted yourself with the new wines of Greece, which are actually the old ones save for advancing technologies, clean as whistle viti-viniculture and winemaking brilliance from masters to young apprentices, it’s Mt. Olympus time you did.

Can’t you hear that rooster crowing?
Rabbit running down across the road

From Assyrtiko to Retsina, Debina to Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko to Xinomavro, Amyndeon to Zitsa, Nemea to Thessaloniki, Naoussa to Santorini, Greek wine is diverse, complex and critical to wine blessedness. Don’t even get me started on volcanic. That opus shall be left to Master Sommelier John Szabo.

Me, I’ll concentrate on the divine mythology of Greek wine, of its place in the fractal world, how it can beautify and simplify, through recursion in dynamic systems, the bleak chaos of wine landscapes. Like the Morai, Greek wines are thread with motherly nurturing. For mere mortals, they direct fate from the birth of their drinking days to death. They are a highly independent bunch, unobstructed and driven by necessity.

The call to assembly of WineAlign critics last week for a table full of Greek whites, reds and one righteous Rosé meant that fate was on side, ready and willing to facilitate a tasting full of exemplary and impressive wines. For a full report on Greek wines, read John Szabo’s words of necessity at WineAlign: Confident wines from Original Vines: Reasons to Drink Greek.

In anticipation of next week’s Greek wine show at which 50 wineries will pour for media and trade in Toronto, I tasted through 25 samples on that new morning. An exceedingly promising number (more than half of what was presented) showed state-of-the-art antiquity and eternal modernity. I’ve chosen ten to highlight here, all worthy of your attention, time and palate. All under $25.

From left to right: Kechri Kechribari Retsina, Kir Yianni Akakies Rosé 2013, Boutari Agiorgitiko 2013, Domaine Glinavos Primus Zitsa 2013 and Tselepos Classique Mantinia Moschofilero 2013

From left to right: Kechri Kechribari Retsina, Kir Yianni Akakies Rosé 2013, Boutari Agiorgitiko 2013, Domaine Glinavos Primus Zitsa 2013 and Tselepos Classique Mantinia Moschofilero 2013

Kechri Kechribari Retsina, Greece (581942, 500ml $7.75, WineAlign)

The resin, the steam room herbal essential oil, the ancient feeling of tonics to heal a wounded soul. It’s all in this tidy little $7 package of wine mythology. That there still exists a market for wine made in this way, with this attention to wise, classic detail, is just amazing. Rosemary and here, even more so oregano are distilled, purely, effortlessly, with peat and macro-oxygenated matter of fact sensibility. Unctuous and viscous elixir, old school to the xyz degree and a pure form of abc ancient Greece. As JS nots, “everyone needs a flagon of Retsina.” Truer words may not be spoken. One must debate, with well into the night philosophy, drawing inspiration from Plato and Aristotle, whether the long, long finish is good, or evil. I’m not sure this will ever tire, or spoil. Drink 2015-2022.  Tasted April 2015

Kir Yianni Akakies Rosé 2013, Ao Amyndeon, Greece (71050, $9.95, WineAlign)

Xinomavro from the Amyndeon vineyards in northwestern Greece done in a funky lactic, savoury and mom’s feta way. Dry, rhubarb wafting, rosemary branch smouldering, lime and pink grapefruit tasting Rosé. This will and should have many fans, particularly those of Tavel on holiday in the ancient continent and needing salinity to match their suckling roast. Clear, concise Rosé. Proper. Drink 2015-2106. Tasted April 2015

Kechri Kechribari Retsina and Kir Yianni Akakies Rosé 2013

Kechri Kechribari Retsina and Kir Yianni Akakies Rosé 2013

Boutari Agiorgitiko 2013, Nemea, Greece (172148, $11.85, WineAlign)

Fun, exuberant, fresh, modern cherry explosion expression. Simple, direct, positive energy and ease of drinkability. Has just enough spice, floral lift and back end bite to afford it three years of service, with any sort of roast meat or salty cheese. Good stuff. Drink 2015-2017.  Tasted April 2015

Domaine Glinavos Primus Zitsa 2013, Zitsa, Greece (395962, $12.55, WineAlign)

From the Debina variety in Ioannina, it would be hard to find another Greek white that offers up as much orchard fruit, primarily from the apple and pear tree thicket. Accents of white peach and lemon make a quick entry and exit just as quick. This is a really crunchy green apple white, picked ripe and finishes with ripe white tannin. It’s not very long but I can think of many, many savoury dishes that would complement with symbiotic pleasure. Drink 2015-2017.  Tasted April 2015

Tselepos Classique Mantinia Moschofilero 2013, Mantinia, Greece (724583, $14.75, WineAlign)

An example for racing Moschofilero against Pinot Grigio and passing it on the stretch run from the outside lane. There are many reasons to go with this variety when narrow thinking leans PG, mostly because it has more depth, mineral grain and positive energy. This is a basic but prime entry into the category. Has the passage of time in its wheelhouse but also the verve to keep it afloat in a sea of sun drenched whites. Drink 2015-2016.

From my earlier November 2014 note: A textured, minutely oxidative and bronzing Moschofilero with a confident sense of itself. The orchard has ripened and spilled into this bottle with peaches, apricots and citrus Portokalia Lakonias. Great metal tang, world turning acidity and length as long as the Nestani’s walk to Demeter’s Temple.

Last tasted April 2015

From left to right: Santo Assyrtiko 2014, Cavino Grande Reserve Nemea 2008, Argyros Assyrtiko 2014, Ktima Kir Yianni 2011, Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia Vieilles Vignes 2013

From left to right: Santo Assyrtiko 2014, Cavino Grande Reserve Nemea 2008, Argyros Assyrtiko 2014, Ktima Kir Yianni 2011, Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia Vieilles Vignes 2013

Santo Assyrtiko 2014, Pdo Santorini, Greece (Agent, $17.95, WineAlign)

Assyrtiko seemingly dredged in volcanic tuff erosion and tightly wound by straight-shooting citrus smack. A rocky cragg of funk leads to desire, for hearth roasted sea beauties and yet this is not even near the oxidized line. Such a white from Santorini needs at least three years to see where it might truly go. I know a sucker for acid driven volcanic wines that evoke the god Apollo. This is yet another fine example that will bring him sunshine and the moon. Drink 2017-2021.  Tasted April 2015

Cavino Grande Reserve Nemea 2008, Pdo Nemea, Greece (295618, $17.95, WineAlign)

St. George persists as a tremendous deal in Peloponnese red. Rustic charm and righteous liqueur fill the air from drift to waft. Prime Agiortiko acidity and fine grained tannin. This will live for 7-10 years. Drink 2015-2018.

From my earlier November 2014 note: Nemea strikes again. Dark rust, earth juiced on and of the rocks. Like Sangiovese with attitude, made by Romans, like Syrah the way it was made in mythological times, by Greeks. A classical garden. This is actually quite modern and expressive for Agiorgitiko. Acts as if it were a touch clay (or amphora) baked but it’s really just a Peleponnese take on oak aging (18 months) and further bottle rest (12 months). This is right in its window and will be friendly for three to five years more. What a steal.

Last tasted April 2015

Argyros Assyrtiko 2014, Santorini, Greece (387365, $19.95, WineAlign)

The most distinct, pure and crisp expression of Assyrtiko comes from this Argyros bottle, magnified with more platinum rock bonding in ’14 than even in the previous few vintages. Exotic evolution has arrived early in this stoic and timelessly chronic Assyrtiko with dramatic fleshing, a hint of hloro tiri and ashen black sand grit. A volcanic goddess in patina hued dress, very mineral, very direct, that drives straight for the lumbar zone. Saline, full of shells and mollusc brine. Anything grilled on charcoal, of white flesh, whether porcine, foul or sea sweet will shine alongside, as it always does. Drink 2015-2019.  Tasted April 2015

Greek back labels

Greek back labels

Ktima Kir Yianni 2011, PGI Imathia, Greece (419234, $19.95, WineAlign)

Xinomavro (40 per cent) submits to Merlot (60) in a rather weighty and warm Imathia out of Naoussa. Chewy to dense and yet floral dark fruit gives this eminent drinkability, especially with salty protein, though it would be hard to distinguish this from Tuscan Sangiovese or IGT. Very modern, really well made and certainly no stranger to oak. Drink 2015-2020.  Tasted April 2015

Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia Vieilles Vignes 2013, Thessaloniki, Greece (Agent, $24.95, WineAlign)

From old parcels planted to the indigenous variety Malagousia, resurrected like a Greek Jesus in the 1970’s by winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou. A classical composition with unexpectedly modern eccentricity. It would be hard not to fall for this Adonis of Greek whites; a strikingly beautiful Phoenician whose drops of liqueur turn to liquid alloy in a glass, of a striking green-gold patina, old barrel spirits and precious metals. This has layers of vine wisdom, fruit that holds its own against the mineral drubbing and ghosts of immortal gods in its aura. Rarely does a Greek white exude such ferocity of history and flesh to match. Calamari and octopus await, in whole roast over charcoal, not to mention great cheeses and roast pork. Fantastic. Will age dutifully. Drink 2016-2025.  Tasted April 2015

Good to go!

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