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Tag Archives: White Wine
C’s Get Degrees – Carmenere and Chardonnay From Chile and Califor-ni-a
VINTAGES March 3rd Release
Friday March 2, 2012
http://blogs.canada.com/2012/03/02/vintages-march-3rd-release/
Theme here is ‘Made in France, 13 Benchmark-Setting Grapes’ and though I pause over the possibilities of essential Alsatian Pinot Gris, ory Burgundian Chablis and even Northern Rhône Crozes-Hermitage, France today feels an ocean away. Second thoughts choose to sail alongside the emigration of Bordelais rootstock, round the horn of South America and making land where expatriate vines flourish in Chile.
Errazuriz Max Reserva Estates Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 (273300, $18.95)
Priced in Alberta and British Columbia at $23, Manitoba $29.
While Concha Y Toro’s Block 27 (562892, $29.95) and Montes Purple Angel (062364, $56.95) are two upwardly mobile examples of the varietal, this SV is the wine to buy on March 3rd. My tasting note pulls a number and stands in line behind a battery of critical flattery. My two cents. Rich, textured, unctuous with a hint of Orange Crush, the Max Reserva has got its spine and is typically green, but in a good way. Electric, riveting and made of conscious movement. 90
Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar (90), “…packs a solid punch but this wine is quite elegant and seamless.” Decanter (****, 16.5), “…very harmonious wine with juicy, ripe, succulent red and black fruit layering spice and bitter chocolate flavour.” Anthony Gismondi, The Vancouver Sun (91), “…speaks to what is possible when care is taken…the finish is like a sunset with bits of dried tomatoes, spice, tobacco and ripe tannins.” International Wine Report (90+), “…full body coats your palate while the round polished tannins glide into the silky finish.” Wall Street Journal, “…a superb wine for those cold nights ahead.” Kurtis Kolt, Wine Access, “…brilliant acidity and perfectly integrated tannins. A stunner.” Tracey, 40-Something Life, “..memories of bonfires in England, of smoky cedar wood with a hint of cassis and fresh herbs.” Also WE (88), RJ (88), CT’s (89).
Next an IVR* deal in California Chardonnay here today, gone tomorrow. Act quick.
Marimar Estate La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 (270090, $19.95) wants to be consumed in the here and now. Progression has reached the optimum wheelhouse core, freshness and pique wound tightly around juicy citrus and mild vanilla buttered toast. In fact the oak is so subtle the medium-bodied fruit remains the star. 90
The Marimar is named after the man himself, Miguel Torres. The price here may be a one-off but not exactly 50% off, more like 30%. Heimoff of WE (90) says “dry, crisply acidic and strong in flavor in its youth.” CC Guide (90) notes, “a complete and involving wine” while David Lawrason is reverent with “riveting and intriguing.” La Masía is on Susan Desjardins’ list as she praises it as having, “loads of personality.” WS (88) and CT’s (88).
Other Wines of Note:
Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (711663, $119.95)
Antinori Guado Al Tasso 2008 (986380, $89.95)
Clos Del Rey 2004 (154385, $49.95)
Le Salette Pergole Vece Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006 (19984, $95.95)
IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio
Good to go!
Vin-terra Incognita, The Wines of Celler Piñol
21st Century Wines from Inveterate Vines in Terra Alta
http://blogs.canada.com/2012/02/28/vin-terra-incognita-the-wines-of-celler-pinol/
February 23, 2012
If Bordeaux, Napa and even Malbec have your nose wedged in the close-minded glass of life then Terra Alta is certainly not on your radar. Just a stone’s throw away, as the crow flies, a singular and estimable cradle of wine civilization promulgates in the commingling regions of Montsant and Priorat. Stretching its legs from out of the shadow of proximate antediluvian cellars, Celler Piñol aims to broaden horizons, roll over stones, reset the compass. Organically motivated, Piñol is a vintner for the New World. Here nine wines tasted at Barque Smokehouse with partner in wine Jascha Baraness, the indubitable Juanjo Galcerá Piñol and markedly too legit to quit, Spirit Tasting Challenge Winner Mark Coster of Profile Wine Group.
L’AVI ARRUFI 2009 ($32) the Garnacha Blanco immortalizes Piñol’s patriarch abuelo. A bold (14.5% alcohol) statement and in tune with the old vine style (Beaucastel) of the Southern Rhône. Composed in peachy, tree-fruit floral tones, the Arrufi tastes like almonds soaked in cider and mel de romani. Essence of white Mediterranean wine. Ancient. Sephardic. Biblical. 91
LUDOVICUS TERRA ALTA 2010 ($14.95) molds Cariñena, Merlot and Syrah around a 50% frame of Garnacha. Grizzled vines for this entry level beauty claw, scratch and rope-a-dope their way through arid and unforgiving limestone soils. A fighter this Ludovicus. Dusty, rocky, bearded and sharp-dressed for the neoteric world. Climbs to the top of the hill and rips off a riff. 87
RAIG DE RAÏM 2010 ($14.95) with increased Cariñena in the mix is a deeper, darker, hemic descendant and displays more bullish animal. Cabernet Sauvignon here too joins Merlot for a cigar note. Begs to be paired with fatty meat, drippings and seared on spice. 88
PORTAL 2009 ($20.95) while not defined, is essentially a Reserva, composed of 50% Garnacha, 20% Cariñena and the remainder Tempranillo, Merlot and Syrah. Jascha says “feral” so I think of the King of Limbs, “…abstract, loopy, throbbing.” Foggy, hat wearing portal to the brain of a braised landscape, demanding short rib, rich broth, slow wine. “Take it easy.” 91
SA NATURA 2009 ($21.95) is a blend of 50% Cariñena with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Tempranillo. The qualities imparted by geomorphic wacke, anticline crag and orogenic Keuper translate to a natural wine, down to earth. Another Piñol made in the vineyard despite the varietal bag. 90
L’AVI ARRUFI VI DE GUARDA 2007 ($39.95) spends 16 months in French oak so the power of 60% Cariñena is unleashed. Combined with 30% Garnacha and 10% Syrah, the Guarda is an architecturally driven, linear and precise specimen. Menthol, eucalyptus and chewy, resinous berries swim out from the arid, desert soils where little rain falls, the days are hot and the nights cold. 92
MATHER TERESINA 2006/2007 ($49.95) is indeed a blended vintage bottling, now a lost art and set to disappear. 40% Cariñena and 30% Garnacha are joined by indigenous Morenillo and the combined effect is an early Cubist smoke, ash and tar affair. Cocoa and cream too. 90
FINCA MORENILLO 2009 ($64.95) is the diamond in the rough. No other wine in the line up buzzes as much with the warmth from humidity that is maintained in Terra Alta’s Mesozoic soils. Made from 100% Morenillo, this Pinot Noir like, thick-skinned, late-maturing grape here shows as a wine of distinct clarity. Very cherry, reminiscent of Bierzo but precisely concentrated and elegant. Here the Canaletas flowing gracefully to the Fontcalda Spa. 93
JOSEFINA VI DOLC 2009 (500 mL, $29.95) is black cherry pie, orange peel scented, late harvest dessert anti-syrup. While the pecan pie match is certainly viable, 76% chocolate would do just fine. That and a Persian Princess. 91
Good to go!
Academy Awards Wines
Oscar Night
February 26, 2012
The Oscars. Ritual television rivaled only by the Super Bowl. The AA’s speak to a wine crowd while the SB leans Wings and Beer fest. Here some recent tastings from VINTAGES to help transition from cliché opening number through three hours of pomp and pride.
ALOIS LAGEDER BENEFIZIUM PORER PINOT GRIGIO 2008 (231274, $16.75) dumbs down in a most descendant, positive way and explains why one wine is an open book and another a deep well. PG so often a Limp Biscuit, insipid, pale, lifeless. This more of an every day Sexsmith crooning Costello, writing the book. From Alto Adige and punched up, acting more like Gris, or even Kabinett from a closer neighbour across the Alps. Watercolour of pomade and propellant. Wheat grassy, honey nut, marzipan cheery. Some evolution on it, as if almost oxidized Chardonnay but fresh still. On the card at Barque. 88
TOMASSI RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2009 (9014304, $19.95) is Tony Calabria’s tipple of choice for Oscar night. Sibilated sweet, reductive treacle and red licorice Lola in a bottle. Kinky, tangy and tasty like cherry cola, “C.O.L.A. Cola.” Will flatter the best available Pizza on Award’s night, like the one at Mama’s at Yorkdale, circa 1978. “This is this.” 87
NOTTOLA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2006 (184960, $15.95) seeps searing Sangiovese, Earl Grey Tea at the seams so drink up. A whiff of Brett huffs and puffs but the artist‘s house is all Siena brick and no straw. A sophisticated palate tears the roof of the sucker so this VNM Gives Up The Funk. Calcium Carbonate, cherry, licorice and umbrella pine dominate the wafts from this actualized, mellow member of the noble Tuscan wine parliament. 89
Good to go!
VINTAGES February 18th Release, Thomas Bachelder
BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2009 (271841, $31.95) goes it alone, leaving LCJ in the dust. Bachelder the Chardcentric man of triple terrior is singularly obsessed and he’s aiming for market snare. This tight knit effort is frenetic like a Muppets Buddy Rich vs. Animal duel. mjg 89
BACHELDER OREGON CHARDONNAY 2009 (273334, $36.95) is chock full of nuts, spice and ghee on Chapati-lized talc. A capacious bonny whale over an ocean of Willamette Valley Chards. mjg 88
BACHELDER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2009 (272005, $34.95) is an admirable if not exquisite first Burgundian effort. A generation away from making a statement, this is well-defined tree fruit, Uchizy-like, wannabe Bret Brothers juice, still on the wishful side of greatness. mjg 87
Good to go!
Judgement at Barberian’s, Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Now to share with you one taster’s fascination of experience, his infectious enthusiasm and his awe in the presence of greatness.
by featured writer Jascha Baraness
Last week, I was fortunate enough to get invited to an epic BYOW Burgundy dinner in the wine cellar at Barberian’s Steakhouse. First we sipped Champagne, paired with oysters and shrimp so big they would make lobsters blush. Everyone mingled until the bubbles had dissipated. The host then led the way further down into the main cellar, set with a long table for the party. Here we were all able to look at what our dining partners had chosen to bring. This two tiered room is a glorious cathedral of wine, with every last square inch of wall space adorned with cubbies filled to the brim with the world’s greatest titles. If you’ve never seen it, it’s definitely worth the visit on your next trip to the Toronto institution.
The wines came out in flights each with great contrast of styles and age.
Whites came first and through all the flights the highlight was the ’96 1er cru Butteaux from the master of Chablis, Francois Raveneau. He makes wines that are so focused you feel like you’re walking on a tightrope negotiating this searing acidity on one side, and pure, concentrated Chardonnay tree fruit and citrus on the other – phenomenal. Comte Lafon’s ’06 Meursault Clos de la Barre shone, showing restrained power backed by just the right amount of oak. Also to be noted was the Tawse-Marchand ’09 Corton showing wisdom beyond it’s youth – will be a gem a few years down the road.
There were too many reds to recount, but as always in Burgundy the cream rises to the top. In order of consumption; a ’95 Volnay Taillpieds from Marquis D’Angerville still youthful. A ’90 Chateau de La Tour Clos de Vougeot still caressing through flexed muscles. The ’89 DRC Romanee St. Vivant with the ethereal quality that the legendary house is famous for. Two Ruchottes Chambertin from Leroy and Rousseau, the ’85 and ’05 respectively, giving insight into a glorious vineyard a generation apart. A close friend of mine and I measure wine by the ‘magic’ content in bottles from the Cote D’or which on this particular evening earned it’s name.
Our hosts were kind enough to provide us with a magnum of Hermitage from Chave to wash it all down with as well as an ’83 d’Yquem with cheese that made me close my eyes hope that the moment would never end. It was an evening of palette pampering that I won’t soon forget. JB
Wines in each flight are listed in order of favourites.
Flight #1
- Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé NV
- Charlie Burger Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Classé Champagne NV
Flight #2
- François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1996
- Domaine Servin Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2002
- Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005
- Vincent Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet 1999 Grand Cru (oxidized)
Flight #3
- Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2006
- Domaine Matrot Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru 2007
- Domaine Roulot Meursault “Les Luchets” 2002
- Domaine Latour-Giraud Les Genevrieres, Meursault Premier Cru 2007
Flight #4
- Marc Colin et Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2005
- Marchand-Tawse Corton Grand Gru 2009
- Domaine Dublere Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007
Flight #5
- Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Taille Pieds, Volnay Premier Cru 1995
- Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny 2002
Flight #6
- Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1990
- Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2006
- Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole 2001
Flight #7
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 1989
- Domaine George Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2000
- Merry Edwards Pinot Noir ’30’ Russian River Valley 2003
- Domaine Rene Engel Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 1999 (corked)
Flight #8
- Domaine Arlaud Aux Combottes, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 1999
- Remoissenet Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers 1er Cru 2007
Flight #9
- Domaine Leroy Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1985
- Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru 2005
- Domaine Ponsot Charmes-Chambertin Cuvee des Merles Grand Cru 1996
- Champy Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2007
- Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1996
Flight #10
- Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Premier Cru 2007
- Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge 2008
Flight #11
- Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge (Magnum) 2000
Flight #12
- Château d’Yquem 1983
Good to go!
VINTAGES, Wines and Valentines
One sparkling, one white and one red because “I ain’t seen my baby since the night before last.” All three are VINTAGES releases, readily available and shot through the heart.
The Sparkling
LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE D’IVOIRE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS (48801, $18.95) is Crémant de Bourgogne as understudy but it rolls out all the necessary attributes (yeast, toast, brioche) of quality méthode champenoise for a driblet of damage. Discussing the two side by side is admittedly like comparing apples to oranges yet this Blanc de Blancs sniffs les deux. It should be noted that Paul and Stevie both appeared at the Grammy’s last night (though not together). The Perle D’ivoire goes together with strawberries “in perfect harmony.” mjg 90
Find it at VINTAGES
The White
ROSEWOOD NATALIE’S SÜSSRESERVE RIESLING 2009 (258806, $14.95) is down $3 from the ’08, magnetic and resonant of a winemaker’s passion. Crafted with the Deutsches technique of adding reserved, unfermented Riesling juice (must) back before bottling. Candy-coated (technically off-dry), bushy-tailed, brimming with many scents citrus, backed up by a grove of apples and peaches. Pour this and you just might fish your wish. mjg 88
Find it at VINTAGES
The Red
SISTER’S RUN SHIRAZ 2009 (222018, $15.95) screams value from big, bruising Barossa. A family run, higher altitude SV (Cavalry Hill) and a subsidiary of the Dandelion commonwealth. Coddled like a quail’s egg by Canadian critics, including Stimmel (90) who notes “…smoky charcoal, mint, cedar and mocha aromas are suffusive.” Grape Guy MP’s (****+) rating eschews restraint and he gushes “big fruit, big flavour, big fun.” Pop and Pour out of Alberta (where the Sister is $20) notes “allspice, dried meat and gingerbread.” NA in the US but in the UK WOW says this “rich and powerful wine wears its 14% alcohol on its sleeve.” Twisted maybe, but “what do you want to do with your life? I wanna rock!” mjg 88
Find it at VINTAGES
Good to go!
VINE DIRT – RECENT TASTINGS
A heterodoxical winter. No blanket of white stuff. To that inclination I travel against the grain for an encounter with three smoking pearls off the list at Barque.
JEAN-LUC COLOMBO VIOGNIER ‘LA VIOLETTE’ 2010 ($18.25) shows great floral intensity for a Vin de Pays d’Oc. Condrieu intuition coaxes spiced nuts and yerba apricot tea from grapes grown in Languedoc. I waver not from the joy in its necessity, even as it descends a wafer thin minty slope to peter out. Certainly prettier than a Flyer’s coach. 88
FIELDING ESTATE CHARDONNAY UNOAKED 2008 ($13.95) is squeaky clean and cheap so “my money flows like wine.” The band plays Dixie while I eat too much chicken, the food and wine marching saintly, effortlessly in. More Mutsu than Meyer, more alfalfa than clover. A golden, herbal remedy. 87
PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO 2010 ($19.95) is spring in winter, perennial in its success, consistent and always sharp in attack. Garganega that is oddly mindful of lemon paraffin wax tubes from the Wiz having gone to college in the Loire and now living as a mature adult in the Veneto. Opiate anaesthetic on the finish renders teeth and gums numb and void. 89
Good to go!
More Picks from VINTAGES CLASSICS, FEBRUARY 2012
Here a first. An endorsement of not only two wines by the same producer, but two Mâconnais. Get past the sexual innuendo of the appellation and give papa JJ Vincent some sugar. These are Chards of explosive character; wood prominent but not dominant, richly textured, party on the buds. Secret stashers consider Pouilly-Fuissé a hidden gem. According to Steven Spurrier, Château Fuissé’s Les Combettes, Les Brulés and Le Clos “are likely to be the first vineyards in the appellation to be classified Premier Cru.” Vincent’s wines do not vacillate, speak the truth and receive attention without ever asking for it. Some non-fiction for your reading pleasure:
http://simplywines.wordpress.com/2011/01/22/chateau-fuisse/
CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ LES BRULÉS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (259820, $49) from the south facing ‘burnt’ slope is crème de la crème, fraîche et caramel. Consensus converges on 2013 but contemporary oak attack to me suggests cellaring for longer than what you might read. WS (92), WE (92), BH (91), CT’s (91), RJ (90) and Decanter (****, 16.5) are in the know.
CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2009 (947721, $54) is the showier of the two. Extroverted, flirty, ready to dance. My note: The meritorious Mâconnais, stupid good with mounds of melon, pear and honey. A huge step up from the already impressive ’09 taxi squad teammates. Chards of diamond acidity cut through the nectarous textures and flavours. Streaks of genius. mjg 92
IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio
CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio
Good to Go!
VINTAGES CLASSICS FEBRUARY 2012
A link to the release:
http://www.vintages.com/classics/cc_main.shtml
Flip Book:
http://www.vintages.com/classics/111025/index.shtml
PDF:
http://www.vintages.com/classics/cc_111025pdf_en.shtml
From penal colony to world wine power, Australia has crossed many a bridge in its compendious 250 years. Now something is amiss. VINTAGES flitted “First Families” back on April 30th, “Aussie Somewhereness” on January 21st but now the gesture resembles a flipped bird towards the LDU. Four wines represented. Four? Two years ago there were 36. So why has VINTAGES abandoned the cobbers? Are the arbiters disgusted by rows of reductive tinctures languishing on shelves like tin soldiers in a hobby shop? Consider this. Speculative investment into an already strong Aussie dollar has soared since the beginning of the year, with the downside heaving a negative impact on sectors such as manufacturing, tourism and yes, wine exports. VINTAGES stopped buying Oz because consumers are transparent in their quest for value and IVR* from Chile, Argentina, Spain, New Zealand and South Africa. Fault not the winemakers from the hot continent. The economic lot handed to them beats down their competitive spirit. Looking back 10 years that is almost hard to believe. OK, a fair crack of the whip for a true blue battler charitably down $12 from ’07.
MITOLO REIVER SHIRAZ 2008 (41145, $43) is a Barossan dinki-di with all the bramble, savoury earth and pho spice one can imagine. Sure, the compressed berries and sharp twang will go to town like a sour, hard candy and render one full as a goog. Fair suck of the sav, mate. Cry me a reiver and re-acquaint your mind with flavour. HS-WS (94), LPB-RP (93), JO (93) and JH (95) are followers. Will drink beautifully in five to seven.
IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio
CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio
Good to Go!
Godello 