Category Archives: Langhe

A Prowein dash through the Nebbiolo of Mauro Molino

Martina Molino

Back in March of 2024 during Godello’s most recent dash through the Prowein Wine Fair there was an unforgettable one hour sit down and reconnect with Martina Molino and Sara Cortese of La Morra’s Maura Molino. The Molino story may only officially date to 1973 but their’s is a pivotal one because of the early focus and dedication on viticulture. Martina Molino’s brother Matteo started with the family in 2003 and she studied oenology in Alba, graduating in 2008. She followed up with further studies in economics, then joined Molino in 2010. Today Martina is the head oenologist responsible for some of Barolo’s most forward thinking nebbiolo that maintain a link to the tradition her father heeded and helped to develop. Mauro Molino is one of the region’s neo-modern pioneers who helped make certain that Langhe Nebbiolo DOC and Barolo DOCG wines could and would evolve. Molino made this happen favourably with smart agricultural but also risk-taking decisions and his legacy will be remembered for establishing a respectful and visionary way of ushering Piedmontese vineyards and wines into the present. Martina’s firm grasp of the reigns sees her family’s wines take on a whole and more profound meaning because of her uncanny ability to tame varietal austerity without compromising structural integrity. A coherence run through the portfolio sees to maturity at the measured pace of great nebbiolo.

At Prowein Wine Fair

The Nebbiolo

The Langhe Nebbiolo is from Roero in the village of Gueda. There are five Barolo, beginning with the “Villages” which comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri, with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. Gallinotto is a sub-parcel of the MGA Beri (“Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, or Additional Geographical Mention), a long underestimated and abandoned area where people thought Mauro Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation. Yet he made the discovery before deciding to research, invest in and resurrect the vineyard. Beri could be the “helmut,” or perhaps “a small chicken,” from Piedmontese dialect, now also Italian. Truth is Gallinotto comes from the nearby hamlet of the same name. La Serra is an historically important cru in La Morra and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Bricco Luciani is the vineyard in the hamlet of Annunziata in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. One of the most prestigious Cru of La Morra, part of the old estate of the nearby convent of Marcenasco.

The Tasting

Mauro Molino Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2022

“A wine that should always have its own identity, not a de-classified Barolo,” insists Martina Molino. From Roero in the village of Gueda. The nebbiolo has been made from this paese from the beginning. Sandy but not like Canale and the aromas, but also the favours deliver a calcareous sensation, a sweet metallic profile that’s almost, but not quite bloody. Just a matter of a feeling bled from finely decomposed soil and so the lightness of this wine’s hue, its gentle florals and soft tannins complete the ideal. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo 2020

A “Villages” styled example from the La Morra estate in supply of top quality fruit so proficient for a rifornimento of the Molino Classico. A part comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. At once clean and fresh then also a touch baritone and down to earth. Should you find yourself in a wine shop staring down a crowded section of villages-designate Barolo then feel confident to choose Molino because of its quintessentially honest character and style. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo Gallinoto 2020, La Morra

From a parcel within the Beri MGA, an abandoned area that Mauro Molino discovered and decided to research, invest in and resurrect. A place where people thought Senore Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation but the small plot that makes 8,000 bottles has evolved into a magnificent place to make Barolo. The “helmut” of Beri, at 380-400m and no protection from the elements swirling in from the surrounding hills. Breezy place of winds both hot and then running cold that make for nebbiolo of spicy and almost white peppery notes. Silken, just now settling and agreeable tannins make for a balanced Barolo that will also live long. Gallinotto is exceptional no matter how you consider, asses or confirm it. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted March 2024

Martina Molino and Sara Cortese

Mauro Molino Barolo Bricco Luciani 2020, La Morra

The vineyard in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Very different, in fact an about face type of nebbiolo as compared to Gallinotto. A sandy and calcareous soil tranlasted to nebbiolo that is so very La Moresse, lithe and elegant but also earthy as per its terroir. Stricter tannins though not too much tension, but yes a fine austerity that means wait two years and drink for 10 after that. At this stage the wine unfurls and unrolls, with a pregnant pause, just one minute after it is gone. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo La Serra 2020, La Morra

First vintage of La Serra was 2010 and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. One of the more popular but also diverse cru in La Morra. Different from top to bottom and side to side, high elevation like Gallinotto but in this case protected by the surrounding hills. Only 2,700 bottles made and its vines average age is 55. Austerity but more breadth and depth to the tannin with a bursting fleshiness to this nebbiolo, broad and impressive, muscular and patented. Serious wine. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo Conca 2020, La Morra

So, Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. Richest and most fruit generous but also the biggest or broadest tannic profile of them all, with spiciness, sharp acidity and far reaching potential. A little bit of everything found in the other Cru Barolo are here in Conca. You feel more wood here but also the completeness theory in action. Drink 2027-2037.   Tasted March 2024

Quite the powerful entry which indicates higher alcohol but also ripeness by way of both sugar and phenolic concentration. Huge fruit, substantial and laden with pectin, glycerol and texture. Modern Barolo to be sure, a nebbiolo that’s fruit first and just enough structure to see it go for eight to 12 years or so, not likely many more than 15. If it’s well priced it will entice and exist as a great cellar defender to please a great many folks.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Good to go!

Martina Molino

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The sparkling rise of Alta Langa

Godello, Alta Langa blind tasting (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

This is the story of Alta Langa, Alte Bollicine Piemontesi. A portrait of proposal for a clearly defined class and style of sparkling wines led by a young, energetic and promising 20-year old Consorzio. An organization led by President MariaCristina Castelletta of Tosti1820 and Vice-President Giovanni Carlo Bussi of San Marzano Oliveto charged with the valourization of Alta Langa DOCG, a dry, vintage-dated Spumante obtained through the traditional method from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes grown on the Piedmontese hills. Their work carries forward from past Consorzio Alta Langa presidents Giulio Bava (Giulio Cocchi, 2013-2022), Lamberto Vallarino Gancia (F.lli Gancia, 2010-2013), Giovanni Carlo Bussi (Viticoltore di San Marzano Oliveto, 2004-2010) and Giorgio Giusiana (Martini & Rossi, 2001-2004). The date was June 15, 2001 in Asti, after more than 10 years of in-depth and methodical research and studies on the suitability of the area, to bring together winegrowers and producers involved in the development of a wine, an appellation and a territory. The common link was the steadfast adherence to classic Champenoise method sparkling wines made with grapes six years after planting. Il Consorzio Alta Langa protects and promotes the ideals of like-minded producers in search of the finest bubbles that can be made.

For the last two years the wine and also social media narrative has been played annoyingly on repeat, of grave reports concerning the decline of global wine consumption and yet there is an essential category on the rise. Sparkling wines are doing fine, with thanks of course in great part to bottles of Italian method examples produced in the hundreds of millions. A skewed graph perhaps but as long as there are bubbles we can’t really complain and yet we know that traditional method styles are what matter most. This is why news of the acclivity and proliferation of classic method effervescent wines is of the best kind. The question is how many are aware about production out of the northwestern part of Italy? For there is Piemonte, from the word piedmont, meaning “at the foot of a mountain,” an alpine arc of a vineterland surrounded to the south, west, and north by the vast Ligurian Apennines. Best known for growing red grape varieties, namely nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto, also the whites of cortese and arneis, but in Piedmont there is this great affinity with the expatriate grapes from Champagne. The affair is nearly 175 years old, but what has been occurring over the last two decades will act as the impetus for shaping the future.

Where in Piemonte?

The Alta Langa DOCG area of production of grapes intended for the production of Alta Langa sparkling wines consists of the parcels on hillsides in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria, in the territories of the following municipalities:

Province of Alessandria: Acqui Terme, Alice Bel Colle, Belforte Monferrato, Bistagno, Bosio, Capriata d’Orba, Carpeneto, Cartosio, Casaleggio Boiro, Castelnuovo Bormida, Castelletto d’Erro, Castelletto d’Orba, Cassine, Cassinelle, Cavatore, Cremolino, Denice, Grognardo, Lerma, Malvicino, Melazzo, Merana, Molare, Montaldeo, Montaldo Bormida, Montechiaro d’Acqui, Morbello, Mornese, Morsasco, Orsara Bormida, Ovada, Pareto, Parodi Ligure, Ponti, Ponzone, Prasco, Predosa, Ricaldone, Rivalta Bormida, Rocca Grimalda, San Cris toforo, Sezzadio, Silvano d’Orba, Spigno Monferrato, Strevi, Tagliolo Monferrato, Terzo, Trisobbio and Visone.

Province of Asti: Bubbio, Calamandrana, Calosso, Canelli, Cassinasco, Castel Boglione, Castelletto Molina, Castelrocchero, Cessole, Coazzolo, Fontanile, Loazzolo, Maranzana, Monastero Bormida, Mombaldone, Mombaruzzo, Montabone, Olmo Gentile, Quaranti, Roccaverano, Rocchetta Palafea, San Giorgio Scarampi, San Marzano Oliveto, Serole, Sessame and Vesime.

Province of Cuneo: Alba (territori alla destra orografica del fiume Tanaro), Albaretto Torre, Arguello, Bastia, Belvedere Langhe, Benevello, Bergolo, Bonvicino, Borgomale, Bosia, Bossolasco, Briaglia, Camerana, Camo, Carrù, Castellino Tanaro, Castelletto Uzzone, Castiglione Tinella, Castino, Cerretto Langhe, Ceva (territori alla destra orografica del torrente Cevetta fino alla confluenza nel Tanaro, da qui i territori alla destra orografica del fiume Tanaro), Cigliè, Clavesana, Cortemilia, Cossano Belbo, Cravanzana, Diano d’Alba, Dogliani, Farigliano, Feisoglio, Cissone, Gorzegno, Gottasecca, Grinzane Cavour, Igliano, Lequio Berria, Levice, Mango, Marsaglia, Mombarcaro, Monchiero, Mondovi’ (territori alla destra orografica del torrente Ellero fino a raggiungere da sud l’abitato di Mondovi, quindi proseguendo verso nord-est i territori a destra della s.s. 28 per Fossano, fino al confine comunale con Magliano Alpi), Monesiglio, Monforte d’Alba, Montelupo Albese, Murazzano, Neviglie, Niella Belbo, Niella Tanaro, Novello, Paroldo, Perletto, Pezzolo Valle Uzzone, Piozzo, Prunetto, Roascio, Rocca di Cigliè, Rocchetta Belbo, Roddino, Rodello, Sale Langhe, Sale San Giovanni, Saliceto, San Benedetto Belbo, Santo Stefano Belbo, Serralunga d’Alba, Serravalle Langhe, Sinio, Somano, Torre Bormida, Torresina, Treiso, Trezzo Tinella and Vicoforte.

Alba truffles

The goods on geology

Two agronomy experts, Edmondo Bonelli (soils) and Maurizio Gily (viticulture) present Alta Langa to a group of local and foreign journalists. It begins with the sedimentary origin of crystalline rocks from two geological areas, first the firmer central and then the outer areas of alpine rocks. Currently there are no vineyards in this area yet but likely will be so in the future. Challenging terroir, but it’s coming. Sedimentary soils are of marine origin, silty or sandy, on hillsides and usually calcareous, most relatively high in water retention capacity. The calcaire is not the same as chalk but it is calcium carbonate. Layered rocks with marls, sand, conglomerates or gypsum, 30-2.5 million years in origin (Oligocene-Miocene-Pliocene), again sand-silt-clay-calcium carbonate. Sandstones are Pietra di Langhe and can be as deep as six kms of stratified rocks down into the earth. The descriptor “Langhe” comes from Langiano or Langian – a geological epoch named after this area. There are the Molare Formation, Cassinasco Formation and sandstones of Diano. Monseglio Formation, Cortemilla Formation, Cessole Formation, Lequio Formation, Murazzano Formation, each named after a village in the Langhe area (of sandy and silty layers and high calcium carbonate). Rochetta Formation, Marls of Parolo, Sant’Agata Marls (silty medium calcium carbonate).

Tajarin con Tartufo Alba Bianco

The Carta Geologica dell’Alta Lange is spilt into eight formations, of eight colours, highlighted by La Malora Beppe Fenoglio, famous Romanzo from San Benedetto Belbo. If we compare Winkler zones, the area is ccooler than Barolo yet quite a bit warmer than Champagne. Biodiversity of the hills is always considered, as are the forests, animals and rivers, they being the Tanaro, Bello, Bormida and Orba. Light soils “dip,” darker soils “anti-dip.” Truth is they are relatively young geologically speaking with lots of erosion and soil movement. Their retention and release of water depends on soil structure and this is also what determines vine (and canopy) growth more than any other factor. But it is the type of soil that deals in different water dynamics. The vines adapt their metabolism  by following their soil conditions. A lot of research has gone into picking the right clone of pinot nero for making Alta Langa.

Alta Langa journalists with President Mariacristina Castelletta of Tosti1820 (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Disciplinare

Alta Langa DOCG regulations say that pinot noir and/or chardonnay vines account for 90 to 100 percent of the wines and grapes from non-aromatic varieties suitable for cultivation in Piedmont and may contribute the remaining 10 percent. In the vineyards minimum elevation is set at 250 masl, planting density not less than 4,000 vines per hectare, training forms and pruning systems need be traditional, of low espalier with traditional Guyot or spurred cordon pruning. Maximum grape yields are 11 tonnes per hectare and minimum alcohol is set at 11.5 percent abv. Minimum total acidity is 5 g/l and minimum non-reducing extract is 15 g/l. Yields are subject to change, by approval, in circumstances of favourable and also challenging vintages. Vinification, bottling, processing and aging operations of “Alta Langa” wines must be carried out in Piedmont. From vintage to vintage the maximum addition is 15 percent, of younger “Alta Langa” to older “Alta Langa.”

With the AIS Piemonte Sommeliers

The use of the simple term “bottle fermentation” is prohibited in the designation of Alta Langa DOCG. Allowable definitions and descriptions are  “bottle fermentation according to the traditional method,” or “traditional method,” or “classic method,” or “traditional classic method.” Lees aging rules are no  less than thirty months for Alta Langa Spumante DOCG and Alta Langa Spumante Rosé DOCG. Wines labelled as Riserva require 36 months of lees aging.

Godello at the Masterclass given by Bonelli and Gily (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

History

It was around 1850 when Marquis Leopoldo Incisa included several French grape varieties in his ampelographic collection located in the vineyards of Rocchetta Tanaro, in what was then the province of Alessandria (which also included Asti). At that time these grape varieties did not meet with much favour, especially among winegrowers. However Gancia created the first Italian Spumante with a Muscat base, in 1865, at a time when farmers held an aversion to foreign vines. This was still witnessed toward the end of the century by the complaints of the owner who succeeded Marquis Incisa, who could find no farmers willing to grow them. In fact, by the mid-19th century, there was no shortage of pinot noir plantings in Piedmont. As early as the first decades of the 1800s, the Counts of Sambuy had begun to introduce some renowned French grape varieties with the specific aim of improving local wine production.

Blind tasting Alta Langa DOCG wines (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa

Carlo Gancia was the pioneer who favoured the spread of pinot noir and chardonnay among the winegrowers in the Canelli district. Gancia saw the possibilities for having a certain quantity to use in the production of his sparkling wines. With the Spumante Metodo Classico Project in Piedmont, of which the “Alta Langa” appellation was born, the Piedmont sparkling wine industry made a valuable contribution of economic and technological commitment to a vocation that had remained unexpressed for decades outside the mere scientific sphere. It was shown that the hills of Piedmont, where vines had over time settled a significant and enduring presence, could work very well with the French grape varieties.

With Gancia oenologist Dr. Donato Lanati

The wines of Gancia today

Gancia is the forerunner of today’s experimental innovation that acts as the basis for the production of the Brut Alta Langa. In 1931 the company contributed to the creation of the denomination Asti for sweet sparkling wines made from muscat and also the first white vermouth made from the moscato. In 1980 they launched the first sparkling wine “pinot di pinot,” using three varieties of that family of grapes. The most important work has come with lees aging using a mix of Champagne grapes. “Whether or not you like a particular aroma in a wine is a subjective fact,” explains renowned Oenologist Dr. Donato Lanati. “It’s all about the amino acids coming together over time – they make the aromas.” Dr. Lanati believes the wines plateau after a 60-70 months stay on lees. After that they will not continues to develop enough favourable nuance and complexity. He recommends that after 10 years you have to turn the bottles nose down in storage to avoid unwanted excess oxidation.

Gancia Vino Base Pinot Nero 36 Mesi Rosé Alta Langa (Campione Da Vasca) 2023

A base wine destined for Alta Langa, still turbid with a high content of yeast activity using amino acids to get somewhere intentional over a long period of time. Salty entry and salty finish with intensities through the middle, grapefruit standing out and unrefined acids – rough for now. Comes from vineyards at 450m and the breeze does blow through this striking base wine. Dr. Donato Lanati explains that it is ”kept cloudy on purpose to avoid having to sulphur because the yeasts are a thousand times more effective as a protector against oxidation then sulphur dioxide.” Just a part of a cuvée and the process that sees an opaque sample mix with other cloudy base wines to create clarity in its final housing.  Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 36 Mesi Alta Langa Rosé DOCG 2018

Minor reduction which is in fact something that is important because “things would be a lot more serious if drinking a glass would make you want to drink a glass of water,” kids Dr. Donato Lanati. Sounds like a joke but in these climate change and extreme times you can taste what would not have been tasted before and Gancia knows, with 150 years of experience in crafting sparkling wines. Aging some of the base wines in wood goes a long way to control the reduction and yet some reduction is a good thing. There is some sweetness in the perfume which is a result of a portion having been aged in a “sweet” wood. This sulphur dioxide character mixed with some acetates that have yet to fully dissipate are what drive aromatic pulchritude and it is the esters (within reason) which will bind with amino acids to eliminate any semblance of confection. There is a small dosage here but it in fact under wonderful control and while Rosé by nature is rounder than Bianco, well no matter or judgement because the mix of tension and elasticity is really well managed. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 36 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2015

Same amount of time on the yeasts and yet three years further bottle time although Bianco (Brut) is always different than Rosé with this Gancia Alta Langa immediately caught with more tension and overall taut behaviour. Freshness incarnate and scintillant intensity without compromise and all intentions are exercised for good and proper reason. Impressive balance and stage presence here from a master sparkling wine producer that is not just the original but currently under the supervisor of a master scientist, that being Dr. Donato Lanati who is one with the chemistry and physiology of these sparkling wines. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia Riserva 60 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2012

Wild to taste this just about five years to the day after the 24 month-ages 2012 back in December of 2019. All the scientific tenets of sulphur dioxide, amino acids, yeasts and esters come to their development line at 60 months of aging on the less and this Brut has passed over by leaving any awkwardness of unresolved notes behind. It is now in fine linear verticality and drinks with Bianco distinction. Crisp, fresh, crunchy and fraught with important if profound tension, citrus and herbs, length and just that right amount of finishing bitters. Scientific does not begin to explain how precise and well designed this acts and delivers as Alta Langa sparkling wine. That said another year will only serve to solidify the evolution and set this up for all we, they and everyone else could hope it could be. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted December 2023

Cuvée Gancia Riserva 170 Mesi Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2005

From a wine made by previous illustrious oenologist Piergiorgio Cane and found by Dr. Donato Lanati who resisted any temptation to change, delete or add anything to the wine. That it has aged between 14 and 15 years on the lees begs the question of how long is too long or more to the point where is the line at which the wine no longer changes to develop more nuances for positive results. Intuitively, if also extrospectively in its maturation to arrive at this dried porcino mushroom and oxidative state. It’s a museum wine in every respect and while it does not deliver freshness or pretty pleasure it does deliver a most fascinating tasting experience. The palate is really in fine shape and that is where some excitement and freshness persists. Twenty minutes does not kill the wine and it continues to evolve, so in the end this does what it surely was intended and wanted to do. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino

The innovation of Enrico Serafino

In a word, a visionary. Cavaliere Enrico Serafino (of the Romano Cavanese) is considered to be one of the “wise men of oenology” that defines Italian wine. He sold wine in China as far bak as 1910 and the winery is one of the first producers of Alta Langa to invest in concrete vats.  Today the company led by President & CEO Nico Conta produces eight different sparkling wines from 56 parcels in 41 vineyards found in 16 villages. In 1994 Enrico Serafino joined the (1990 established) Piedmont Sparkling Wine Project, the year of the first experimental vintage, with the aim of identifying the best areas to plant pinot noir and chardonnay. The 2023 harvest marked their 145th and the annual sparkling production is approximately 200,000 (of 360,000 total) bottles. Serafino ws acquired in 2014 by Kyle Krause Gentile and the current ownership recently purchased Elena Penna and Luca Corrado’s Vietti.

The company practices sustainable viticulture, biodiversity protection and the promotion of social initiatives. It actively works to reduce water consumption and uses 100 percent electricity from renewable sources. Bottles are made from at least 65 percent recycled glass, packaging from 70 percent natural paper (International Forest Certification System and corks are 100 percent recyclable. In 2021 Serafino obtained the renewal of VIVA Certification of Organization as well as product for Alta Langa Oudeis, the only Alta Langa certified. VIVA is a protocol of the Italian Ministry of Environment and Land and Sea Protection designed to assess sustainability performance and communicate it to consumers.

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Zero Pas Dosé 2012

The no dosage metodo classico is known as Sboccatura Tardiva, meaning late disgorgement and a wine first made in 2004. Poured from magnum which is well known to deliver a markedly fresher and youthful sparkling wine when the traditional method is involved. The ’12 is the first to be a solo pinot noir, here with zero residual sugar and a disgorgment from 2018. Extreme level of toast and a pH under 3.0, wondrous and excitable because the total acidity runs higher than 8.5 g/L, yet comfortably under 9.0. Makes for a salty bubble compounded by the silty, calcareous soils of marine origin. Citrus zesty, both lemon and orange, with more spiced accents to this dry Martini of a sparkling wine. Lip-smacking, briny and effortlessly saline, chalky-dry and so well arranged from 100 months on its lees. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Zero 140 Pas Dosé 2012

“140,” as in that number of months “potentially” spent on lees which in many cases runs past the vanishing point of increased returns, but with Serafino the extra 40 (or more) seems plenty justified. A 20,000-30,000 bottle production that acts so much more demure and soft than the (100 – 2012) with aromatics spoken in a seductive whisper. Everything changes with a dynamic paradigm shift onto the explosive palate where the 85 percent pinot noir (and 15 chardonnay) begins to quiver with nervous tension and excitement before complex flavours emerge. This bottle was disgorged this year and so took the full 140 advantage. The longest level of aging suggests this should be left open to evolve in the glass as long as any sparkling wine on the planet. That is if you are looking for an aromatic emergence, with an awakening forest, pencil shavings and poached pear. Subtle at first, many layers to unfold, a toasty quality, acidity and chalky earth, less obvious than the ’12 but with more mystery, fantasy and possibility. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted December 2023

Alta Langa dinner at

Some dinner wines

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2018

Also labeled as DOP because “dad always believed that DOP stood for quality,” tells oenologist Umberto Bera. He was also one of the first 10 to join the Consorzio Alta Langa. The mix is 70 percent chardonnay and (30) pinot noir, 15 months on lees. A mix of toasty and autolytic notes, 5 g/L of RS, well beneath the Brut threshold. Disgorged in May, 2023 and so the aging time is nearly three times that 15 months and Bera disgorges three times per year. Showing some secondary level maturity with ample freshness preserved and a persistence of energy.  Last tasted December 2023

Nothing overt but yes there is a phenolic and also metallic presence within the aromas. Lemon drop and also herbs, not quite sweet but like basil or better yet slightly more resinous like tarragon. Good crunch in palate texture with stuffing and a mouthful to be had before moving sideways into more metals and botanicals. A periodic wave of elements and emotions form this Extra Brut mix of chardonnay and pinot noir, likely close to half and half. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Blanc De Noirs Pas Dosé 2017

Under the ownership of Giulio Bava, created in 1981 and has always produced Alta Langa in Piemonte. “Alta Langa has a soul of its own,” tells Roberto Bava, “and a personality reflective of just two varieties, pinot noir and chardonnay.” The B de N is 100 percent pinot, five years spent on lees and Bava notes the sapidity of this wine. “next to (minerality), which all Alta Langa wines must have, played out in different ways.” Truly stoic and direct with dried herbal notes, pencil lead, sage and dry, dry, dry. Who needs sugar in such wines? Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted December 2023

Deltetto Alta Langa DOCG Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé 2016

“A great passion of my father was Spumante Método Classico, first made in 1980,” tells Carlo Deltetto. “The business card of the winery is the Alta Langa.” This despite the winery being primarily a Roero producer. The ’16 is the inaugural Riserva, pas dosé style which for Alta Langa incidentally is done incredibly well as a sparkling wine region. The key here is elevation, of vineyards averaging 470m, directing the sapid nature of this bubble. Who needs sugar when you have an arc of both richness and flavour, developed of natural sweetness, all leading to captured balance. Impressive acids help the wine be direct and precise, already now with good age in pocket. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Rosato Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero De Saignée 2016

Ripe, high level fruit and mature, advancing and settling into a secondary state. Scents of lemon iced tea and this from a wine no longer part of the Serafino portfolio. Simple, 100 percent pinot nero, pas dosé, disgorged in 2022. Demure on the nose yet explosively expressive on the palate. Labeled saignée but like much of Alta Langa Rosato it’s really just a matter of a quick maceration to bring out the rusty hue. A curious acidity to make this seem as dry as any of the no dosage style. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc De Blanc 65 Mesi 2016

If at first this seems to be par for the no dosage course well think again because with chardonnay the fruit stands out so very expressive. Germano’s dream was to make Bianco and so 1988 was the year to exploit riesling and chardonnay at 500-600m of vineyard elevation in the Tanaro River valley. In 2000 the sparkling journey began and the first cuvée was made in 2003. This ’16 marks the second vintage of the blanc de blanc, 65 months on lees, an equal mix of salinity and sapidity for gastronomy in a bottle. Three essential pillars of Alta Lang that give the sessantacinque its credibility and promise of top quality. Precise, chiseled and full of class. Fabulous traditional method sparkling white. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted December 2023

Gancia Cuvée Gancia 60 Mesi Brut Riserva Alta Langa DOCG 2011

Clarity of a blue sky with some density to it and the smoothest, most polished Gancia Alta Langa there ever was. For the entire denomination in fact, or any style of sparkling wine. Obviously vintage related but also the extra time allotted, above and beyond 60 months on lees. Luxe aromas and flavours, rich polyphenolic moments and the sweetset sapidity ever. Polyphonic, multi tonal, melodic lines melting into and becoming one another. Tonic, lemon preserve and the finest of bitters. Serious simultaneity and seamless presence. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Bicentenario Pas Dosé 2010

Tosti has spent 200 years of making this 100 percent pinot noir, pas dosé cuvée, not always but this anniversary edition saw some wood aging. Just 2-3 g/L of (inconsequential) residual sugar an 105 months of lees aging, disgorged in 2020. From two plots in Canelli and Alba, estate and grower fruit. Rich, a mellow golden toast, intensity of flavour, fleshy and lengthy. Very all-purpose sparkling wine, well formed, formulated and generous. Quintessentially Alta Langa. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted December 2023

Alta Langa seminar

The blind tasting (69 wines)

Bianco

San Silvestro Alta Langa DOCG Albarè Pas Dosé 2020

Blanc de Blancs, only chardonnay as per the disciplinare and pas dosé so just the natural fruit facts. Subtlety and therefore what should be noted as a light toast and once again the fruity notes continue to press the theory that chardonnay performs more in this way with no dosage as compared to pinot noir. The sharpness and lightning strike on the palate is consistent with the theoretical style. Finishes with neutral citrus pith and minor bitters. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Coppo Alta Langa DOCG Brut Luigi Coppo 2020

Strikes out at a higher aromatic tone, less subtle and demure as a chardonnay and so the terroir feels heavier, of more density in the soil structure and a weightier result comes out. Palate presence is sturdy and strong, flavours wild and exotic, lemongrass namely and also a guava to lemon curd connection. Great flavour intensity and length. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Deltetto Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2020

A heavy aromatic inhalant, weighty and not easily induced with little to no aerosol quality. An oxidative style with lemongrass, ginger and cardamom, neither herbal nor particularly fruity. Quite tart, citrus namely and quite chardonnay of nature, though a bit gangly and awkward overall. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ferraris Agricola Alta Langa DOCG Brut Tenuta Santa Chiara 2020

Leaning oxidative with maturing notes up front. Complex and exotic, gingered, toasty and very expressive with a wide range of fruit, herb and mineral flavours. Textural as well to add another dimension and potentially three of them from this curious and crafty chardonnay. That early note of oxidation will serve it well. Not long on the lees, yet really well made. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Terrabianca Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2021

Young specimen, a Bianco (therefore 100 percent chardonnay) not long, if likely the bare minimum on its lees. Tight, I mean really taut and wound around like a winch tightening a spindle. There is citrus but not really any other fruit to speak largely of. Lighting strike of Alta Langa without autolysis, bready-yeasty quality of density. Power is all up front and neutrality follows. Just too young to see through the trees but not certain much else will follow. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Vite Colte Alta Langa DOCG Brut Cinquecento 2020

Quite the complex nose for a young Alta Langa Bianco with that nice little note of fresh cheese that should develop some nuttiness, compound butter flavour and receive its structure after some time in bottle. Even more so than other cuvées of similar vintage and ilk that have yet to be disgorged. Brut so there is some sugar but hardly noticeable because acids and intensity are both in charge. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cerrino Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Nothing but chardonnay and a few years on lease for a yeasty, autolytic and on autopilot example. A bit too much autolytic behaviour and so some odd flavours have crept in. Not a pristine pour to be sure.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Contratto Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc de Blancs 2019

Brilliant beginning to this 100 percent chardonnay without dosage. Power yet a restrained one and seamless transitions throughout. Fine balance between acidity and texture, intention and complexity. True deal in the Alta Langa style that delivers fruit from chardonnay while also a matter of soil and place. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fabio Perrone Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Chardonnay and no dosage with that ever consistent play of fruit first on the nose and then replayed with lovely swirls as the palate presence and flavours march on. Good density and purity here with fine acid structure though either a bit young or not necessarily the most complex example. Perfect right now and will stay this way for another year – after that it will likely soften and the bitters expand upon. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Mauro Sebaste Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Avremo 2019

Some foraged fungi on the nose, not unusual for chardonnay however it replaces the fruit to a good degree. Good and fine bitters with lemon in many respects. A bit of preserve but mostly the juiced fruit if not the one most perfectly fresh. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Alta Langa blind tasting revealed

Contratto Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé For England Blanc de Noirs 2019

Maturing and oxidative example, noted first in golden hue and then the bronzing, sun-tanned feeling on the aromatics. Gingered and orange scraped palate notes yet dry as the desert and caught up in taut intensity. Really complex, very “Cap Classique” in style or Champagne that leans notably oxidative. A specific way of doing things for sure and one done very well. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Pianbello Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Orme 2019

Quite classic, stoic, taut and yet highly tonal pronounced iteration of untreated chardonnay without dosage. Straightforward, unabashed, running hither and thither with just about everything Alta Langa will offer in this dry, untamed and free to be style. Very well made in all these knowable respects. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Rizzi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Aromatic, more than many, especially considering the style, that being Blanc de Blancs without any dosage. The flavours and textures follow suit though the autolysis takes charge in notes of cheese rind plus bitters. A bit overdone in this regard and so the finish falls off as a result though there is certainly character and charm for short term drinking. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenuta Carretta Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Airali 2019

Quite phenolic and reserved aromatically speaking. True aridity in the pas dosé idiom and the palate changes nothing about that in this way. Crunchy Alta Langa and it does begin to change and become something other with some time in glass. Next level flavours and also texture comes out to finish with that pencil lead and bitter tincture drops of chardonnay God. Give this some time. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Cuvée Aurora 2019

Another phenolic entry and so one of those sapid style of Alta Langa chardonnay is expected. And so it is with dry botanical aromatic notes followed by great flesh, lemon and lime in all their parts and extended play for a very important and lengthy example. Holds all the necessary tenets and stuffing to see this age well, but also evolve to become something special. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Daffara & Grasso Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Very lemon up front, bigger aromatic thrust than many but we’re out of Pas Dosé and into Extra Brut with this Blanc de Blancs. Fine lines and pretty good purity with quite a notable level of bitters though we are aware of how well they integrate into the fabric and framework of a properly executed and structured sparkling wine. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Extra Brut accommodation and you feel the juxtaposition of sugars and acids in the aromatics. Feels riper and fleshier but only the palate can confirm or confound that idea. Does the first and then goes into full citrus juice squeeze, though it’s manifold, of lemon, lime and also grapefruit. The destiny of this wine is to see some cheese and funk in the future but so many will see the love and the beats in that next stage. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Alta Langa at Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo

Ivaldi Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Andrea Blanc de Blancs 2019

Quite phenolic, plenty of citrus flesh but also custardy orchard fruit. Extra Brut and you note the sweetness, nothing simple here and it does elevate the style. This will have wide appeal for its easy, if earlier drinking ability. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Marcalberto Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Millesimo2mila19 2019

Truly proper in the Extra Brut Bianco ways of Alta Langa are extracted, exerted and extrapolated upon with a fine 2019. Lemons and apples, tart and tight on the palate, great acidity moving all ways including sideways, all parts together, linear, vertical and powerfully restrained. A very fine example from a warm and yet promising vintage. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Marziano Abbona Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

The sapidity spoken of by agronomists and producers is here on the phenolic front in this Bianco Extra Brut. Captures a certain side of Chardonnay and does so with stoic, reserved, complicated and trenchant nature. This wine has purpose and feels so very serious. It will need a few years to settle and hopefully prepare some flesh for a more pronounced Alta Langa experience. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Massimo Rivetti Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

More juiciness and terpene action up front as compared to many and so a slightly later harvest from a warm vintage seems to be the fruit matter on order. Some maturity and a bruised apple note in the flavour profile confirms this and while acidity is spot on there is this feeling of flattening out at the finish. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Le Rapide 2019

The Extra Brut Alta Langa as Bianco seem to act tart in one of the three ways. Sharp and restrained, maturing or as it does here which is phenolic to imagine a sapid sparkling wine. Not exactly the opposite of salty but a different sort of mineral style, that is to say a sparkling wine that is a direct result or at least one that speaks with true correlative nature to the place. That being a terroir surely sandstone based with some slit, minor calcareous parts and older soils, geologically speaking. A vertical wine with great apposite if transferring and complimentary fleshy texture and a wine as long as is gets. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roccasanta Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Phenolic, for the most part with some green notes and plenty of terpene as well. A bit overdone, likely picked a bit tardy and so acidity is more dense and botanical than the team probably wished it to be. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenuta Rocca Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Expressive and quite tightly wound example of Extra Brut for chardonnay as a Bianco or Blanc de Blancs style. Lemon in every respect, more juice and zest than pith but it’s all truly represented. Fine work in a very specific, taut, direct and scintillant way. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Il Viaggio 2019

Still in the Extra Brut conceptualization for (chardonnay) Bianco and of the three styles this comes out phenolic and well extracted. An example that transfers really well onto the palate with tart juiciness and true blue varietal acidity that travels up and down the sides of the palate. Not the most complex sparkling wine and lacks some depth but it’s solid, well made and serves great purpose. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Agricola Brandini Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

The first true reductive Alta Langa in flight of 69 with this being the 26th pour. Agitation does blow off some steam and allow fruit to rise like cream to the surface. What is next is great purity and a creaminess to the mousse unlike any other thus far. These flavours are rich and frankly delicious though that reduction will be a detraction for some. The finish is long and nurturing. Stick with this wine if you want the right kind of reward. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Blind tasting Alta Langa (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Bosca Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ispiro 2019

As quiet as it gets aromatically speaking from a Brut for chardonnay out of a warm and promising vintage. Though the entry was a reserved and yet giving one there is much more happening on the palate. Heavy dose of lemon, fresh squeezed and ready to integrate with the sapid-mineral wealth of this wishing to be serious example. Here is an Alta Langa with true karst from bones that stand upright with great skeletal verticality that suggests poor soils and plenty of calcium carbonate for a result that could only be like this. This winemaking team paid great respect to the terroir. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cascina Cerutti Alta Langa DOCG Brut Enrico Cerutti 2019

Well made, simple, straightforward, a bit bitter and creamy iteration of chardonnay in the local ways of Brut sparkling wine. Short and to the point. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa DOCG Brut Blanc de Blancs 2019

Quite the phenolic lift as opposed to that aromatic ripeness style that can sometimes weigh down Alta Langa sparkling. A botanical example with replay on the palate that confirms the suspicion. Good integration of parts with acidity more than well and good but the phenols outweigh all else and take back power in the end. An herbal example, possibly because of heavier and more organic soils that deliver some increased vigour and therefore likely yields iin the vines. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Il Cascinone Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Alasia 2019

The first Alta Langa Riserva at pour number 30 in a flight of 69 and a stoic one at that, with must reserve in the tank. High ranking parts, namely substantial if notably compact fruit that puts this is a place of yet unresolved business. The acidity is similar of nature meaning its not of scintillant action but rather one of weight as well. This could use some time to see if it will open up and rise up as it likely wants to, after being interred by too much gravity. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Paolo Berutti Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

High terpene level and so orchard fruit (namely apples) are front and centre for this chardonnay of Brut categorization. Crisp enough and acidity is elevated though the parts are a bit disparate and there is some bruising of the fruit. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Pecchenino Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ecole 2019

Cheese funky and bruised. Not a good bottle or perhaps past prime.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

With Alta Langa Consorzio President Mariacristina Castelletta and Journalist Åsa Johansson (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Piazzo Comm. Armando Alta Langa DOCG Brut Ritorno in 2019

Reduction released by agitation quite quickly so note to self and to others be sure to give this sparkling Alta Langa a swish and a swirl. Grippy example, fully fleshed and giving much aromatic fruit, palate presence, fleshiness, some creamy texture and finally that local sapidity so often talked about. There is much going on in this Brut though it does not soften in the end. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Sara Vezza Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

The kind of aromatic entry that causes a raise of one eyebrow because it’s a combination of maturity and intrigue. A very young wine in one respect and on the other also one of experience. Rich at first and then repeated, but also a matter of fine acidity before rising and then settling with tonic and bitters. Seriously complex activity here and if perhaps a polarizing Bianco then so be it because the chardonnay and pinot noir each do so much to variegate the blend. They make this work. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Vinchio Vaglio Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2019

Cool, sapid, salt-licked, rising to meet the ethereal and the first notably mint-savoury Alta Langa noted in this long flight of 69. Tart and full on tang, fleshy, ripe and chewy – sure more than 95 percent of what can be tasted. This will have great appeal for its generosity and acumen.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ravasini Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2019

Mature, oxidative and not perfectly clean. Very natural feel, pas dosé and obvious for a style that was intended to be played out. Does not quite function as we, or at least some might have wished it to. Not convinced Alta Langa can yet do this style consistenly well, at least not this early in its tenure. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Parcellaire 2019

An Extra Brut Bianco with some extra lees aging time, here from a cooler and wetter vintage which is duly noted on the aromatic entry of the wine. Part reduction and part reserve, a tight and grippy wine that shows its strength through structure overarching above all else. A sapidity that its maker surely wanted and a holding back so that it can continue to develop, morph and become something next or at at the very least, other. The palate delivers the full experience and there is some great flesh hanging taut on these solid bones. A fine Alta Langa in this specific style – there can be no arguing this as a fact. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Terre del Barolo Alta Langa DOCG Extra Brut Vinum Vita Est 2019

Firm iteration of an Extra Brut stylistic that could use some generous aeration so that the aromas can be released. They will and do, though it would seem acting less effusive then some. This goes more at a line that is tight and the end of Alta Langa predicated on intensity and drive. Plenty of spirit here and a finish dotted by fine bitters, of pith and tubers. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut 2018

Also labeled as DOP because “dad always believed that DOP stood for quality,” tells oenologist Umberto Bera. He was also one of the first 10 to join the Consorzio Alta Langa. The mix is 70 percent chardonnay and (30) pinot noir, 15 months on lees. A mix of toasty and autolytic notes, 5 g/L of RS, well beneath the Brut threshold. Disgorged in May, 2023 and so the aging time is nearly three times that 15 months and Bera disgorges three times per year. Showing some secondary level maturity with ample freshness preserved and a persistence of energy.  Last tasted December 2023

Nothing overt but yes there is a phenolic and also metallic presence within the aromas. Lemon drop and also herbs, not quite sweet but like basil or better yet slightly more resinous like tarragon. Good crunch in palate texture with stuffing and a mouthful to be had before moving sideways into more metals and botanicals. A periodic wave of elements and emotions form this Extra Brut mix of chardonnay and pinot noir, likely close to half and half. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ravasini Alta Langa DOCG Brut Cuvée Leonora 2018

Maturing aromas and so the vintage plus lees aging have come to a place where the wine is moving into secondary stage. Just that hint of fungi, basic like a meadow variety, horse or commercial button, but with no sign of truffle. That will likely happen soon enough so get at this Brut styled Bianco sooner rather than later. Flavour profile is open and strong though again evolution is in full movement forward. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2017

Now heading back a few years with a warm and dry vintage of little worry for a producer and their pas dosé methodology. The nose is quiet and comforting, the perfumes more demure and beautiful than many of similar ilk. This Alta Langa may not scream of its intentions nor will it appeal to a mass audience but it’s character is quietly impressive and its style something worth repeating. Consistently reserved, never demanding and always in complete control. Fine and proper if again not the most gregarious sparkling wine you are likely to encounter. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa DOCG Brut Giulio I 2017

Truly unique nose on this 2017 Brut which seems to put pinot noir first though not convinced its percentage exceeds that of chardonnay. A clean funk or better said classic Langhe earthiness involved and so this seems to be an Alta Langa true to terroir. Plenty of textural chew and citrus preserve but also this cool, gelid and slightly bitter feeling to the fruit. The lees are a major part of this exercise and while they are not 100 percent clean they are the kind that lend and promote great character. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa DOCG Brut Bianc’d Bianc 2017

Plenty of lees aging and effect here for a 2017 Alta Langa of a warm and extremely dry vintage. Seems to have really settled into its skin with softening aroma and creaming textures that are seamlessly integrated at this advanced stage. If getting to know and understand aged Alta Langa and its potential is on your wish list then this Brut is a very solid place to start that journey. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Cuvée Aurora Blanc de Noirs 2016

Truly toasty and piquant example of pas dosé Alta Langa with a curious cotton candy or slightly caramelized peachy note to begin. Really well aged with clean lees and a fine gem-metal aspect to join the maturing fruit notes. This holds its line and maintains its composure to great length and effect. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenute Rade Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé 2016

No dosage and a very restrained example that whiffs of neutral or virgin concrete, dry and severe. Not a sound bottle perhaps though a second bottle delivers much of the same. The palate is improved with fleshy citrus flavours yet that musty note prevails.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ettore Germano Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Blanc de Noir 65 Mesi 2016

It seems that Riserva is not just a matter of longer aging time but also a product of greater fruit quality. This 2016 from a powerful and tannic vintage brings the goods in ways few others seem want to deliver. Crisp and in charge, an intensity of parts that begin with quality fruit never letting up or seemingly willing to relent. Carries items with dignity and confidence for a wine or great Alta Langa respect, of its heritage and place. Feels like the clear juice from pinot noir stands above the chardonnay in this cuvée of great purpose and interest. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roccasanta Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2016

Not overly expressive in fact this holds back despite its age and lees aging time as per the Riserva style. The palate is appsoite, mature, of slight caramel and notably soft. This has done its time and the time is now to drink up. Has developed a minor cider note to confer that suggestion.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tenute Rade Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 2015

From 2015 and a no dosage Bianco iteration of volatility, maturity and a mix of caramelization meets oxidation. A lovely old drop in one respect and because the acidity rises high it’s well preserved and so should be well perceived and received as a sparkling wine of age. Flattens after the initial weak palate display before fading off into the proverbial Alta Langa sunset.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Daffara & Grasso Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé 290 mesi 2014

Alta Langa in Riserva form with that extension from extra Lees aging and no dosage for that magical combination. This has truly developed next level character while staying level on its legs and staying a course that will allow even further aging excellence. Labels Bianco though tasted blind it can be nothing but Blanc de Blancs because the chardonnay stands out like a hitchhiker with an extra large thump. A guide to the Alta Langa galaxy right here in the glass, heady, steady and grippy with a real plan, even if the world may not think that this place and these wines have this fully entrenched in mind. The real deal will reveal itself and this 2014 has done just that. Drink 2023-2027.   Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Vigna Gatinera 96 mesi Blanc Noir 2014

Only Alta Langa it seems can effect this intricate mix of long lees aging time and no dosage for such great and curious effect. As here though this 2014 Bianco is showing some oxidative maturity even even while it persists as a reductive example by way of its pinot noir and chardonnay cuvée. Still crunchy and truly flavourful with both yellow citrus and small red berry fruit in combinative affair. Finds its groove late and accumulates more and more pleasantries as you taste through a few sips. You need to hang in with this nine year-old Alta Langa and if you do there will be greater reward. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023. asted December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa DOCG Pas Dosé Cuvée 36 mesi 2014

A Bianco long on its lees and showing maturity though also a stoic nature to begin. Still crunchy and like a mouthful of citrus and stones. This would have been singing with its finest voice just a year ore two ago though still does so dutifully and truthfully today. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Bera Alta Langa DOCG Brut (90 mesi) 2013

A mildly oxidative and advancing example though having strong 10 years in. Plenty of experience, of creamy fruit, almost a custard of the orchards and while pinot noir makes a play it is the Chardonnay making the bigger statement. Shows off heritage and good planning to exact more emotion for what kind of potential Alta Langa holds for wines to age this length of time. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Coppo Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Riserva Piero Coppo 2013

A Riserva of Bianco that reeks at least as much of pinot noir as it does so from chardonnay. At ten years of age it have proven to have lasted and lingered as well as could be expected with the best times presented right here and now. Feels like a wine of age and drinks with nurturing comfort at this stage, like a blanket or a parent. Drink up and savour every last moment.  Last tasted blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Riserva Giulio I 100 Mesi 2012

More than 10 years old and still a quietly demure and not overtly philanthropic example of Alta Langa Riserva. Getting as much red fruit pinot noir as citrus chardonnay on the nose though together they combine and accumulate for a very fruity sparkling wine. Also toasty and even just flinty enough to consider the calcari, the argilla and the arenaria in the earth from whence this once emerged and has now arrived. A beautiful ALR after all these years and I for one would relish a pour anytime it might be forthcoming. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero 140 2010

No sugar added at tirage and yet you will not find more natural fruit in an Alta Langa Bianco or Riserva, especially in this style. Magnificently organized and perfumed of all the fruit blossoms and then the ripeness of that fruit as it arrived at fruition. Toasty, even still slightly reductive and almost no signs of true maturity – certainly limited oxidation. The truth is alive and these bubbles prove that Alta Langa ages really, really well. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa Riserva DOCG Brut Cuvée 120 mesi 2010

Nearly 13 years of age and a wine doing well, thank you very much. Many years (upwards of 140 months) on its lees and using every bit of those clean yeasts to conduct a current and fully realize the fruit for dramatic effect. Just a bit toasty and over excited (as it must have always been) to rise above the fruit but acidity is fine, racy and its charge well executed to make this work as well as it should. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Blind tasting Alta Langa (c) Anastasia Florea and Consorzio Alta Langa DOCG

Rosato

Colombo Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut 2020

Just a wee youthful one, of maximum 24 months on lees for a Rosato (namely Blanc de Noirs) that modernizes Alta Langa with ever increasingly utilized pinot noir. Well short of saignée and just a few hours run off with clean juice that came from pure fruit of a well timed sparkling pick. The clarity puts this in spot on territory for the idiom. Creates a dictionary entry Rosato for the denomination. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ivaldi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut Andrea 2020

Extra Brut with a bit more dosage that foils if not perfectly aligns with the fruit and acidity for what collates as a slightly rustic example. Well and substantial fruit and complimentary savour if just off-putting because the combinations create some mismatching and misappropriated flavours. More than serviceable if not truly representative of potential. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Banfi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut Cuvée Aurora 2019

A few years of lees aging has done well to set this Extra Brut Rosato up for rusty copper Alta Langa success. More than ample richness, orchard fruit that involves crab apple and then a turn to more savoury elements with low-creeping vines that deliver leaf and red fruit in elastic flavours. Carries with nimble ability, without distraction and only purity. Very well made with the capability to age at least a few if not five-plus years. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Massimo Rivetti Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut 2019

Quite pale for Alta Langa Rosato and so though a factor of pinot noir and blanc de noirs it is noted how the maceration was quick and oh so gentle. Not as overtly aromatic as some though there is a yeasty autolytic note involved to tell us quite a bit about the style and also the intention. Pay attention to the stage presence and the seriousness with which this intends to capture your palate. Succeeds for the most part though does not hold on as long as some deeper and more impressive examples. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Il Cascinone Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Alasia 2019

Quiet aromas, a bit of citrus tablet dissolve and more dosage noted than many. Simpler, easy and getable ahead of the game. Lacks the complexity and drive of more serious examples in the Brut Rosato category. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Ravasini Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Cuvée Leonora Rosé 2019

Cider notes, of terpene and juiced orchard fruit that suggests more than pinot noir but is likely just a matter of how this was pressed. Acetic and volatile more than anything else. Something went wrong in this case.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Tosti1820 Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Rachele Rosè 2019

A funky cheese rind note mixes with a rusty and rustic red fruit style anchored by strawberry then accepted by rhubarb, baking spices and earth. A savoury kind of Brut Rosato that’s not so much a matter of overripe fruit bit more so terroir and then winemaking. An is what it is Alta Langa that succeeds because it is unique. Sweetness comes out at the finish to mix and merge with tonics and bitters. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Agricola Brandini Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut 2018

Crisp, earthy and crunchy Rosato, savoury and with some strawberry sweetness across the board. Begins savoury and finishes on a sweeter if also earthier note. An interesting Rosato that will likely morph and change into something of greater interest because the yeasts are clean, the fruit pure and the potential quite good. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Gancia Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Cuvée 36 Mesi Rosé 2018

Rusty, savoury and cheese rind aromatic with plenty of yeasty lees notes that likely need more time to integrate. That said the rusticity can’t be ignored nor denied so keep in mind how parochial and local this will always purport to be. It’s really quite comforting and with some excited energy on the palate their is a true affinity with growers’ Rosé Champagne. That’s a compliment because authenticity and respect for terroir are more than half the battle and reason to appreciate an Alta Langa sparkling wine.  Last tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Minor reduction which is in fact something that is important because “things would be a lot more serious if drinking a glass would make you want to drink a glass of water,” kids Dr. Donato Lanati. Sounds like a joke but in these climate change and extreme times you can taste what would not have been tasted before and Gancia knows, with 150 years of experience in crafting sparkling wines. Aging some of the base wines in wood goes a long way to control the reduction and yet some reduction is a good thing. There is some sweetness in the perfume which is a result of a portion having been aged in a “sweet” wood. This sulphur dioxide character mixed with some acetates that have yet to fully dissipate are what drive aromatic pulchritude and it is the esters (within reason) which will bind with amino acids to eliminate any semblance of confection. There is a small dosage here but it in fact under wonderful control and while Rosé by nature is rounder than Bianco, well no matter or judgement because the mix of tension and elasticity is really well managed. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted December 2023

Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Rosato Riserva DOCG Pas Dosé Zero Rosé 2017

This Rosato may be pas dosé but screams form the glass with a wealth of ripe fruit captured to be put to great use. Richness and energy combine from start to finish, exert upon the palate and continue to rise through every moment of this fine Alta Langa sparkling wine. No let up, time off, sick days, stops or starts. Continuous and righteous. The potential is still great and the faint bitterness on the palate is just so appropriate. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Cocchi Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Rösa 2017

Good aromatic presence, a nose into Orange Pekoe tea and earth before the leafy red fruit notes become involved. Tight and bracing on the palate with piercing acidity, never acetic nor volatile but very much in charge. An intense example that still needs time to flesh out even if it’s a wine from back in 2017. Not sure it will ever really change but if you like this excitable style than this is the Alta Langa Rosato for you. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Fontanafredda Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Brut Contessa Rosa Rosè 2017

Notable extra fruit substance and also yeasty notes determine the Riserva designation and set this Rosato up for plenty of slow maturing, unfolding and unraveling days ahead. Rusty, earthy, gingered and tonic-botanical notes but also evergreen so quite a variegate composition from pinot noir. Complex tones for sure if just that ever so slight disadvantage as a wine that will act and therefore be an acquired taste. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Roberto Garbarino Alta Langa Rosato DOCG Extra Brut L’Istinto 2016

The oldest of the Roasto and the only one defined as Extra Brut in a flight of 13 Alta Langa examples. The most fruit blossom forward on the nose, rich and expressive, sweetness so well incorporated and the fruit comes away so finely crossed between citrus and berries. Really well delineated and defined, of accords struck and alliances formed. This will live a great long iife. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Blind with the Consorzio Alta Langa in Asti, December 2023

Good to go!

godello

Godello, Alta Langa blind tasting

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Nebbiolo Previews 2024: Barolo 2020 DOCG, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018 and Retrospectives

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

In Piemonte the association of location and climate creates an effect on vines to make them Italy’s most indeterminate and so the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero are the beneficiaries of these ever oscillating variabilities. Of course there are 12 months, 52 weeks, and 365 days on the annual calendar but the question always begs. What really makes a vintage? Climate, locus, viticultural adaptation, hard work and luck. As for the messaging of 2020 Barolo, its combination of symptoms has recently been recognized, hard nosed and flexible like 2016, though the wines have got a third problem never seen before. They exhibit dexterity, in other words a fluidity of movement. No, that’s not really a problem at all and within the boundaries of a vintage it means the 2020s are arguably the most forward of the current era. Ah, that’s the crux and aye, also the rub. Nebbiolo described as scorrevole, wines of “flow,” characterized by elegance and grace. Not all mind you, but to describe a vintage there needs to be some communicated level of generalization. In summary, 2020 is a very progressive vintage.

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

Yes, this is something new for nebbiolo as Barolo and so perhaps a new epoch is upon us. Time to move on from the ancient ways, to shed the Homeric, Classical Roman and Old English, get past the Early Tudor, Elizabethan, Caroline, Restoration and Augustan. Eschew the literary, abstain from the Modern, Post-Modern and Meta-Modern, ditch the cynicism, irony and climate change fears. Embrace the present, see the beauty and hope for the future. So what do we call this new era for Barolo? Well, for one thing the 2020 Barolo will follow the classic script. Act one today, act two one hour later, act three 10 years forward. So the wines have that kind of structure going for them – which is nice. But what are they called?

Marina Marcarino, President Albeisa Wines

Related – Nebbiolo Previews: Barbaresco DOCG 2020 and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Blind tasting adds a whole other dimension, but wines do not lie. Don’t we just feel it – when greatness is in the glass? Taste one, or several hundred examples over the course of just a few days – the learning curve is the same. There is certainty in knowing what it is to be a well-structured nebbiolo. The eponymous Barolo village lends its name though there are eleven (and their environs) that can make nebbiolo carrying the name: The others are La Morra, Monforte, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. These villages and their surrounding kingdoms play collective host to the profoundness of a grape married to place – forever bound, unfettered, undeterred and unbreakable. Nebbiolo and in turn Barolo are encapsulated by the soils, hills, winds and genius loci of the Langhe. Barolo owns the title of “Grand Italian Wine” and for good reason. How about a quick synopsis from village to village?

La Morra … Welcome to an open for aromatic business vintage where the Barolo of La Morra are want to be linked across a common thread of pitch and style, high in acid with a hundred different pixels of charm and grace. The red citrus vintage, especially of blood orange, fruit first and with just enough structure to see the wines go for eight to 12 years, or so.

Novello … Modern enough yet still plenty of tradition in pocket for real wines experienced in real time. At their best they are substantial, exemplary and moving. Like 2016, for many a perfect vintage, classic, without challenges, equilibrio.

Serralunga d’Alba …  Substance and stature. Tighter, with dry tannins impressively woven into the tactile fabric of the wines. More of a red citrus currant to pomegranate with balsamico savoury-gariga mix than most. Subtle imagination of mineral lined within, musky skin-scented and rich without excess.

Verduno … The most reductive and closed of the 2020s with rich aromatic liqueur. High tonality specific to the village with really fine examples of ability and style.

Barolo … First maturing, most experienced, least phenolic, sound, calm and collected. Aromatically refined, optimum acidity, high austerity of tannin, taut and grippy. Commune of imagination and also fantasy, to come away at the finish firmly entrenched in true blue Barolo cru realities. Quiet yet composed, rich and powerfully restrained.

Castiglione Falletto … Peppery, spicy, seasoned, salt-licked and crispy. Predicated on acidity that can’t be immediately ignored, zesty, bursts of sunshine and savour with the feeling that ripeness is equal between fruit and acidity.

Monforte d’Alba … Split into two. Taut and stoic with aromas waiting patiently in the wings or deep and delicious red fruit aromatic profiles. Ripeness of acidity and tannins, sweetness of parts that pique interest. Bright and engaging, ripeness achieved and concentration quite ample. Major potential lays ahead.

Barolo 2020

The MGAs continue on their path towards omnipotence and in 2020 the percentage of cru-designated samples was higher than ever, with less Più comuni examples than ever before. In La Morra the MGAs include Arborina, Boiolo, Bricco Luciani, Brunate, Capalot, Casa Nere, Castagni, Cerequio, Gattera, Gianchi, La Serra, Marcenasco, Rocche dell’Annunziata, San Giacomo, Serradenari, Silio and Torriglione. Barolo’s are Albarella, Boschetti, Bricco delle Viole, Buon Padre, Cannubi, Castellero, Coste Di Vergne, Fossati, Monrobiolo Di Bussia and Sarmassa. In Castiglione Falletto there are Altenasso, Bricco Boschis, Brunella, Monprivato, Parussi, Pira, Rocche Di Castiglione, Scarrone and Villero. In Serralunga d’Alba the cru include Boscareto, Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia, Briccolina, Broglio, Cerretta, Gabutti, Gianetto, Lazzarito, Marenca, Margheria, Meriame, Ornato, Parafada, Prapò, Sorano and Vignarionda. Monforte d’Alba holds the vineyards of Bricco San Pietro, Bussia, Bussia Dardi Le Rose, Bussia Vigna Fantini, Castelletto, Castelletto Persiera, Castelletto Vigna Pressenda, Ginestra, Vigna Sorì Ginestra, Gramolere, Le Coste Di Monforte, Mosconi, Perno, Pressenda, Rocche Di Castelletto and Treturne. From Novello there are Panerole, Ravera and Sottocastello Di Novello. Verduno holds Monvigliero and San Lorenzo, Roddi is home to Bricco Ambrogio and Raviole is within Grinzane Cavour.

The Sommeliers of AIS Piemonte – Albeisa Headquarters, Alba

Year after year the opportunity to taste so many Barolo and pay visits with producers is made possible by the organization of the Consorzio Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. Langhe Vini are supported and valorized by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani and these tastings support the mission. Much of the Anteprima’s success is facilitated by A-B Comunicazione team of Anna Barbon, Linda Foltran and Cinzia Luxardo. This twenty eighth year of Nebbiolo Prima once again acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. For the first time the tastings were held at the new offices and tasting rooms of the freshly minted event space in Alba. It was simply brilliant, comfortable, perfectly orchestrated and with the finest professional work executed by the AIS Piemonte sommeliers. There is no such thing as a successful anteprima without the sommeliers. They are professionalism and humanity incarnate, their ability to anticipate, react and service a wide range of tasters’ needs is uncanny. This group is tops, a power trio that combines knowledge, agility, and speed. I consider them as great friends and always filled with joy when I see them again.

Godello with Marina Marcarino

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Keep in mind that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons, including wines not yet ready to show. There are many cask samples involved and a strong argument can be made to eliminate campione for this tasting, as you will note in more than a dozen reviews below. This relevance of this report lies in the idea that it is but a snapshot, albeit of two hundred-plus wines strong provided by producers who submitted their wines. It also includes some wines tasted on site at winery visits, in particular at Bruna Grimaldi and Elvio Cogno. Then there are a couple of dozen important estates that did not participate in Nebbiolo Prima, including Elio Altare, Azelia, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Corino, Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Massolino, Alfredo Prunotto, Rivetto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino, Mauro Veglio and Roberto Voerzio. The following are Godello’s Barolo notes from Nebbiolo Prima. There are 225 reviews in total; 190 Barolo DOCG 2020, 13 Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018, 18 Barolo DOCG 2010 and four Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008.

If you would like to view the top scoring wines from this report please click here.

Martina, Franco and Bruna – Bruna Grimaldi

Barolo DOCG 2020

Grinzane Cavour

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Camilla 2020, Più Comuni

From five vineyards, Bozzone and Raviole (Grinzane Cavour), Roero Santa Maria and five percent each from the two single vineyards Bricco Ambrogio and Badarina. The vintage of thinner skins, high juice to pulp and skin ratios and a 2020 that you can honestly pour a glass of today because it’s just a nebbiolo of pure joy. Non aggressive tannin, sweet acidity and silky smooth texture. A truly refined Barolo and just so drinkable. Approximately 22,000 bottles produced, bottled in December 2022. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2024

Diano d’Alba

Bricco Maiolica Barolo DOCG Contadin 2020, Diano d’Alba

Just the one sample from the commune of Diano d’Alba and a light affair from what will surely lead off for a charming set of 2020 Barolo. A gentle rusticity and well-seasoned fruit, salt and pepper on currants and pomegranate with a vague dusting of wood spice. Juicy and high acid with a cherry stone meets almond skin finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

La Morra Barolo

La Morra

Cascina del Monastero di Grasso Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Annunziata 2020, La Morra

La Morra commune, orange and red citrus, acids running high and amok, vintage typicality and as it will be seen the question is all about levels of charm, grace and balance. Some austerity but the fruit source meets quality are truly high, merging with structure and merging onto a road that leads towards excellence. The potential here is great because the tannins are sweet, long-chained and should eventually calm into that wished for state of grace. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bovio Gianfranco di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Arborina 2020, La Morra

A high tonal start for nebbiolo from La Morra, a balsamic not so farfetched for the vintage that is determined by the type, pace and pitch off this Barolo’s acidity. Fruit feels darkening, a black cherry type of idea, not incongruent but taking some time to get used to when you consider the acidity’s style. Will take a few years to come together. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alberto Ballarin Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Welcome to a vintage where the Barolo of La Morra are want to be linked across a common thread of pitch and style, high in acid with a hundred different pixels of charm and grace. From the rustic to the suave and this falls just right of centre with its higher tone and gentle rusticity. Like many other from the commune the acidity is of a red citrus sensation that lifts and extends the fruit for extra linger time. Not particularly tannic here so think of the near to mid term in thinking about how long to age. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Some maturity in this La Morra’s fruit, well ripened and developed, nearly ready to go with a reduced balsamico that’s showing along with some vaguely peppery reduction. Tart and as mentioned the fruit evolution involved creates just a slight impression of advancement. Drink in the immediate years to come. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

La Morra Cru

Camparo Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Cask Sample: More than youthful and in fact reductive which makes this sample feel like it has been pulled from tank or concrete rather than cask. Quite closed and immovable, yet with wholly impressive fruit substance. A sample with great potential because the tannic grains are finely chalky and the acidity running high though also expressive of great learned maturity. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Carlo Revello e Figli Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Lovely and charming Barolo with early accessibility and open arms, of grace and the gentlest swarthiness fully attractive and inviting. Not a salsiccia but a swirl of fruit and mineral, of modernity though because it’s so fresh and clean you also intuit the heritage in this La Morra producer’s ways. Such a pretty Barolo with seamlessness between parts, transitions smooth as silk and plenitude from start to finish. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mario di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Brunate 2020, La Morra

A kind of reduction that’s as problematic or at least confounding as this Barolo is chock full of wealth. Tight and extremely tannic, clearly rustic but also just slightly dirty. A vinyl curtain feeling because acetic notes are strong and acidity is in total control. Time will be an ally to smooth and soften. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Burzi Alberto DOCG Capalot Vecchie Viti 2020, La Morra

A lighter and while not fully, also a brighter nebbiolo from La Morra. Far cry from a cru expression but rather something Villages in gather of concentration that suggests old vines. Tart and a palate intensity that defines the more important section of this wine. Full flavoured if not bodied and so solid, if not exceptional in hyperbole. Very correct and ready without obtrusive tannin. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot 2020, La Morra

Tart and liquid chalky, a Barolo of grip and near formidable tannin though the fruit is indeed strong enough to defend itself. Big boned and yet not what should be thought on as charming or stylish. An antediluvian style though an effective one and the sort of nebbiolo to put away for a rainy day. This won’t be anyone’s modern favourite but it will live for 20 years. Drink 2028-2040.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto E. C. Barolo DOCG Casa Nere 2020, La Morra

High cherry fruit kind of immediacy, bursting up and out, the rest of the nebbiolo concepts waiting in the wings. Some flecking to black and then the crunch of the stone within. The mineral swath released and streaking through, the acids and tannins also rushing in and taking control. Then a sip. Botanicals, dry Amaro, tonic and bitters. A bit pressed and green. Length unexceptional. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Michele Chiarlo Barolo DOCG Cerequio 2020, La Morra

Blood orange of a red citrus La Morra 2020 feels that dominate the first impression of Barolo. High tones, some acetic behaviour though in check and far from unusual. Good fruit quality and substance with salt and pepper seasoning and the faintest hint of Brettanomyces. Nothing distracting and the kind of level that will be extremely appealing to older-school lovers of a specific nebbiolo style. Classic producer in every way, structure that follows suit and because the flaws are kept to the vaguest of impressions it creates this symmetry between vagaries and graces. Not the most social Barolo but it can exist with confidence in the halls of crowds. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Conca 2020, La Morra

So, Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. Richest and most fruit generous but also the biggest or broadest tannic profile of them all, with spiciness, sharp acidity and far reaching potential. A little bit of everything found in the other Cru Barolo are here in Conca. You feel more wood here but also the completeness theory in action. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted March 2024

Quite the powerful entry which indicates higher alcohol but also ripeness by way of both sugar and phenolic concentration. Huge fruit, substantial and laden with pectin, glycerol and texture. Modern Barolo to be sure, a nebbiolo that’s fruit first and just enough structure to see it go for eight to 12 years or so, not likely many more than 15. If it’s well priced it will entice and exist as a great cellar defender to please a great many folks.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG Barolo del Comune di La Morra 2020, La Morra

A bit if a brooder, not low and baritone but still there is a slow rumble to the fruit and acid mix. A relationship between parts on the same page in a calm and tranquil setting without any major distractions or disturbances. Quite tannic however so this shows some impressive structure and the finish actually rises up from that early settled feeling. It says that this nebbiolo is caught on a rising trajectory and should continue this way for server years before coming back down. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Martina, Franco and Bruna – Bruna Grimaldi

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Fossati 2020, La Morra

A bit closed, yet to open for aromatic business but like so many 2020s, especially from La Morra, the subtleties and grace should see this come about sooner rather than later. Some bitters here that do indicate some green in the tannin, nothing egregious but duly noted. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Carlo Revello e Figli Barolo DOCG Giachini 2020, La Morra

A most proper and definitive middle of the nebbiolo road taken for La Morra Barolo. Fresh, crisp and crunchy red fruit and that proverbial mouth full of Langhe rocks. Dusty and tannic, sweet acids a great foil to the aridity of the wine and savour in ideal pitch to square off angles and be sure to see the roundness come about after five-plus years. This is the right stuff. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG La Serra 2020, La Morra

No other La Morra in flights totalling 25 nebbioli emit this kind of exotic scent and spicing, none at all and the singularity is more than noted. Chalky and dusty example here as well, parts wild and in flight, structure ready and willing to ground the wine when it’s done moving here, there, and everywhere. There is so much going it’s hard to track and follow but time will solve the equations. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG La Serra 2020, La Morra

Simpler and less structured nebbiolo here from La Morra, ripe and charming, red citrus and a mild chalkiness but acidity is far more important than the tannins. Tang over tart, fruit over all else and lovely to sip. Early term Barolo without argument. Style points for purity and honesty. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichmej 2020, La Morra

Bigger Barolo here from La Morra while the fruit is ideally red and juicy, meeting vintage expectation and keeping up the Joneses of alcohol and structure. Neither formidable nor intense but yes there is power and grip. A graceful and gliding bird of prey using acid and tannin to grip and carry the fruit. This nebbiolo is in total control, an alpha varietal expression that will live long and prosper, not to mention enjoying a well-fed life. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Barolo del Comune di La Morra 2020, La Morra

First sample TCA. Second sound. Liquid chalky and righteously structured nebbiolo, classically and charmingly La Morra, nothing overtly powerful or lithe but somewhere so comfortably in between. Richness yet elastic and poised to work its fruit, acid and tannin consecutively, with length and for good aging potential. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2020, La Morra

A nebbiolo rising, set on a high tonal trajectory, tart and intense. High acidity, balsamic all the way through, a modicum of structure otherwise. Can’t really see much long term potential. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negretti Barolo DOCG Rive 2020, La Morra

Grounded nebbiolo of great fruit swell and swath of Rothko colour but also aromatic texture. Power and grip but of a restrained and in control variety that speaks in knowable varietal terms. Very Barolo, highly worthy of cru and commune, a La Morra reality elevated and celebrated. So ideally calibrated and of a natural sweetness in perfect alignment with structure. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Light and airy, like fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. Easy and simple nebbiolo, fruit ripe and pure enough to be considered as Barolo though not a matter of great stuffing overall. Grows in stature with flesh over time yet never really gains grip or power. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Thin and chalky, a tannic nebbiolo without much grace or charm. Atypically or rather rustically La Morra. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rocche Costamagna Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Cask Sample: Closed and immovable sample, stuffing clearly hidden away but the wine is just not showing much at this time. No doubt there is a whale of fruit lurking beneath the surface but for now its just about time and seeing this Barolo spend plenty of it in bottle. Some volatility noted at the finish and also power. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

460 Casina Bric Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Here La Morra takes off into the stratosphere and volatility runs high to say this may never come back down to earth. Clan enough outside of the VA with some fine and substantial fruit but my this is out there and so as a result kind of one dimensional for nebbiolo, La Morra and Barolo. Remains to be seen if an adjustment will happen. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ratti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Light and airy, rising towards the ethereal in a La Morra that from go is expressive of grace and charm. More than substantial fruit that not only keeps up with the flight but also shows no reaction to gravity or pressure. Ripe and luxe while never gratuitous or dense. Certainly never jammy. A fine and weightless example of Barolo with sneaky tannins and great stage presence. Top example that will unwind over 15-20 years time. Drink 2027-2039.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Reductive, a bit harsh and peppery for the time being but no real concern because this is the way of some young Barolo. Crispy and crunchy with plenty of substance to carry this forward if just a bit pressed and therefore some verdancy showing through in the concentration. That cherry stone bitterness as a result and while this is substantial it will always exhibit these flavours. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rizieri Barolo DOCG Silio 2020, La Morra

A true balsamic iteration of nebbiolo that veers just a bit to the acetic right. Aromatically tart, tightly wound and a bit too intense. Searing actually and drying severely at the finish. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Torriglione 2020, La Morra

Rosy and ruby nebbiolo, aromatically all about fresh roses and tart red fruits in the currant to pomegranate vein. Some swarthy notes detected upon the palate, a chalkiness and a thickening of texture. Fine enough and quite correct if just a bit out of balance. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Novello

Novello

Le Strette Barolo DOCG Bergera Pezzole 2020, Novello

Cask Sample: Just beginning to open with sweet perfumes in the aromas though surely far way from being “there.” Very suave and chic nebbiolo, laden with glycerol, silken and cool. Not savoury mind you because the fruit not yet blooming is of a full and substantial ilk. A volatility also lurks though more cask and then bottle time should heal this very small wound. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sarotto Roberto Barolo DOCG Audace 2020, Novello

Acetic, buggy, shower curtain – not clean. Good fruit however but the acids are off-putting and not on the same page. Nor are the drying tannins which finish brittle and hard. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Abbona di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Cerviano-Merli 2020, Novello

Really dirty here from Novello. It’s reduction but also wood that is very problematic. There is just no way to see this wine cleaning itself up. Ethyl acetone as well.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Le Strette Barolo DOCG Corini-Pallaretta 2020, Novello

Cask Sample: High toned and casted cask sample with the brightness of Novello captured if still too tight to be released. Chalky and truly tannic, two parts tethered together that will continue on a copacetic trajectory and eventually emerge as one. Great potential here. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sarotto Barolo DOCG Briccobergera 2020, Novello

Lovely swirl of Novello nebbiolo with a meandering of fruit into circles of acidity and waves that incorporate sweet tannins through the concentrically drawn lines of this Barolo. All is fine aromatically yet the wood is overarching with as noted in the strong vanilla scent and then texture that reminds of less expensive varietal Italian wines from the Meridione south. In the end it feels artificial and forced. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo DOCG Panerole 2020, Novello

Reductive, though subtle in this regard and so the winemaking plan seeks protection, with freshness captured and kept for a Barolo that will seek longevity. Potential is the ideal and fruit like this will help realize the goal. Plenty of wood detected yet used with purpose and the vague Bretty note is anything but a problematic distraction. Finely chiseled and crafted Novello in any case and yes this will live long and well. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cannubi

Abrigo F.lli Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Power and an alcohol feel here from Novello, a grippy nebbiolo in true blue, ready to wear Barolo apparel for a lifetime of comfort. Rich and swirling, of substantial fruit and tannins equal yet acidity is more like a low machine rumble below, though it does not generate the power as much as the other parts of the wine. Still this modern example will be pleasing for those who seek and demand full-bodied (though not exclusively) Italian wines. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Abrigo Giovanni di Abrigo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Sweet nebbiolo is so many respects, not of sugar of course but yes in all three of its constituent parts; fruit, acid and tannin. Ducks in a row, lined up consecutively, each one turning to the next and passing it on. A modern and forward thinking Barolo, attractive and inviting, well structured and always shining bright. Really quite fine. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fratteli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

A push-pull, posit tug type of nebbiolo, at times bright and at others laying low, fruit full and acids richly developed. Modern enough yet still plenty of tradition in pocket for a real wine experienced in real time. Exemplary for Novello and 2020, classy Barolo and true too form. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Novello MGAs

Cagliero Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Tart mix of red citrus and wood spices for a nebbiolo that feels like a varietal masala liquified as Barolo minestra. Vegetal and spiced, tang and chalk, textural and emulsified to say the fruit and wood are just about on the same page. Give this Novello another two years and all should have properly come together. Will round out into a really nice wine without sharp angles or edginess, in the end. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Nothing overt but there is an edginess and a swarthy bit of behaviour in this 2020 from Novello. A nebbiolo of major fruit and also acids – but do not sleep on the crunchy tannins. This is true Barolo of volatile behaviour, ancient and incarnate with cask in full control for old school behaviour and style. Needs several years to integrate, settle and find the other side. Patience required, with prejudice and should you be in a hurry there will be some disappointment. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vietti Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Plenty of stuffing from this qualitatively brilliant Novello Barolo, substantial, exemplary and moving. Grooving as well, a buzz of acidity in surround of fruit and true significance structural speaking. Cru capture of great distinction from within Novello, lots of wood yes but good and clean barrel accents and effects. Really well-seasoned and the potential here is truly great. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barolo DOCG Sottocastello di Novello 2020, Novello

High tones acceding the acetic so beware of the power and potentially problematic actions of this Barolo. It’s silken and the fruit is of high quality but insights into its behaviour look at acids edgy and out of a certain level of control. The palate shows more stability but the finish is drying and clearly abrupt. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Cascina Nuova 2020, Novello

“Like 2016,” insists Walter Fissore, “2020 was a perfect vintage.” Classic, without challenges, equilibrio. A dusty quality and a broad brushstroke of Novello nebbiolo, the youngest and most impressionable fruit, easier by Cogno standards so that it can be consumed earlier and defend the Ravera Baroli from having their youth stolen from them. Here a Barolo that rolls from sweet natural fruit through Amaro and into brushy savour before returning right back to the beginning. The Ravera are linear while Cascina Nuova turns continuously on an axis and walks the circumference of a circle. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

One of three Cogno expressions from the Ravera MGA in Novello, here the most broad while the other two are single vineyard expressions. All things being relative and equal the term broad means less both for these estate wines and also as compared to the Cascina Nuova label. Great richness meets both salinity, followed by sapidity through Ravera, yes it’s true, first one and then the other. They layer for what feels like a slow release of emotion and so Ravera comes at the palate in wave after wave. The warmer the vintage the more whole bunch function and so in 2020 the number was approximately 50 percent. Think about that. For MGA Barolo. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadi and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

The hill within the hill, Bricco Pernice upon Ravera, isolated, insulated and encapsulated for nebbiolo of an insular and implosive intensity that’s likely unparalleled anywhere else in Novello. Closed and not because of vintage but due to time and really that’s about it A broad shouldered and muscular nebbiolo that must be given as much bottle time as it spent in cask, or double that for even better results. That means check back in 2026 or later to see if any part of the tannins have unfolded, unfurled or stretched out for some exercise. Likely not but then some parts will finally have as the decade unwinds. Also it’s normal in January for Pernice to be tight and a bit closed. Oh, by the way this was made with 100 PERCENT WHOLE BUNCH NEBBIOLO. For Barolo. Single vineyard Barolo from a storied MGA. Walter’s mid-life crisis begins right here and it’s glorious. Drink 2029-2045.  Tasted January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva DOCG Ravera Vigna Elena 2018, Novello

For some producers this would already be a retrospective look back at a special single vineyard Barolo but for Elvio Cogno it’s as young a nebbiolo as there is and may as well not yet be released. Only in bottle one year, a true Riserva for Barolo in a world where there just aren’t many left. Elena is made with clones that need more time to resolve their nebbiolo tannins because the body of the fruit they accompany is not as big and fleshy as other clonal examples. Lumpia and Rose, needing coddling and oxygenation, repeated in a wine like Elena that must be aired and agitated to get into a charming state of grace. It will provided you pay attention and exercise patience. Not a big wine but a stubborn one. Drink 2028-2040.  Tasted January 2024

Blind tasting, Nebbiolo Prima 2024 – Albeisa Headquarters

Più comuni

Francone di Francone Fabrizio e C. Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

Some dirty barrel noted off the top, coming across with reduction and varnish. A bit too problematic to see the nebbiolo roses and bright rises of this multi-commune Barolo. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gheddo di Pippia Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

Some dirty barrel noted off the top, coming across with reduction and varnish. A bit too problematic to see the nebbiolo roses and bright rises of this multi-commune Barolo. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG ‘Angela’ 2020, Più comuni

A nebbiolo of more than one commune and so what resides as multi-village level should find its balance in the variegation of fruit, terroirs and multi-climatic layering. As far as things go this 2020 Barolo does this variegation quite well with nothing out of sorts or line and with fruit quality as fine and proper as one could want from the vintage. Chew, ropiness and tang, like liquorice and sweet acids, quite balsamic but never too tart. Good medium bodied ay this level of an example. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG ‘Pio’ 2020, Più comuni

Not the lightest iteration of a Più comuni Barolo but nor is this one of grip and power. A hit of reduction and so well protected, of moderate structure to see a nebbiolo that should also carry forward while always developing and protracted. Really solid effort here, well made and drying in a most proper Barolo way. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Treturne 2020, Più comuni

This is one of several Più comuni Barolo with yet another reason to see 2020 as a charming nebbiolo vintage working strong for the people because these “general” iterations are almost all well designed. Fortified and balanced. Its an impressive group of wines and tells us that the vintage is a great buy with very few blips or slips. In fact this ’20 is a cut above the rest with natural sweetness, substance and length. Barolo reality captured. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Viberti Giovanni Barolo DOCG Buon Padre 2020, Più comuni

One of the more reductive Baroli as a product and factor of Più comuni yet still within reason and one to see as a protected nebbiolo to age in the mid term. The bones are strong and the flesh hanging well, if taut and close to the skeletal structure of the wine. Well made and actually quite modern for the idiom. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

A far as Più comuni Barolo is concerned this exists on the less forthright and fresh side of the spectrum, though still as a nebbiolo that speaks in correct varietal terms. It’s a light one but not exactly bright or pretty in any real shape or form. Tart and full of tang, low-level structure and best serviced for the short term. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Paesi Tuoi 2020, Più comuni

Ever so noticeably reductive, a bit brooding and quite glycerin textured for Più comuni nebbiolo as Barolo. Laden with pectin, jammy on the nose, tannic and austere to finish. Some disparate parts here, a bit out of sorts though time will help. Feels just a bit professional and larger production in style for normale Barolo. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Martina Fiorino – Bruna Grimaldi

Roddi

Grimaldi Bruna Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2020, Roddi

From the MGA split amongst a half dozen producers, the largest of which is farmed by Paolo Scavino. Bruna Grimaldi owns two plots, one planted on a north-south axis that is blended into the Classico. The other is always made as a single vineyard wine, a sunny place with top exposition and the delivery here of a horizontal expression, juicy and forthright. First vintage with fermentation in open top fermenters that helps to broaden and round out the tannins and earlier whereas stainless steel kept them much tighter. More forward three years to now (though the wood aromas are still quite strong) to find a Barolo of breadth and depth but also one you could very much consider to open and enjoy. Charming, a naturally sweet expression, so generous and arguably one of the cleanest nebbiolo around. Drink 2025-2032.  Last tasted January 2024

On the Roddi again for 2020 Barolo in the reductive style with an example showing that true crunchy red shell encasing same ilk fruit equipped with plenty of tang. A piquancy here that’s held tight within itself so that time can be the factor for a fleshing out and away. A bit too much wood this early (to no shock) because the silkiness of texture is chock full of vanilla, lavender and liquid spice.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Lodali Walter Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio Lorens 2020, Roddi

Fine Roddi example of Barolo noted straight off the top, reserved and restrained but expressive behind the veil. Pull that organza curtain aside to reveal high quality fruit sweetness and acids to match. A march of complimentary parts into tannic walls yet malleable, intricately woven and true willing participants. A suave nebbiolo of class and if just a bit too much barrel that is also something that will eventually melt in and eventuate into truffled secondary style. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negretti Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2020, Roddi

Truly rich elixir of Roddi nebbiolo with that jammy pectin aromatic feel followed by no schism to casually replay upon the palate. Lots of wood here in a modern stylish and truly tannic Barolo. This will be enjoyed by many fans of this very effective style. Cordero comes to mind. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga

Serralunga d’Alba

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Badarina 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Many will recognize Badarina as the cru where Bersano owns the largest part because Martina Grimaldi’s grandparents sold much of it to Arturo Bersano back in the 1960s. A stiffer and more vertical Barolo, certainly as compared to Bricco Ambrogio but still these 2020s from Bruna Grimaldi are all generous gifts of nebbiolo. There is just something in the way they move and so neither reduction nor austerity are part of their make-up. Freshness and a crunchy fruit base are mixed with expertly managed acidity, tannin and wood to put this in harmony, for now and 10-plus years at the very minimum. Drink 2025-2036.  Last tasted January 2024

First of the Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo and one to speak in raw dough meets pulpy red fruit ways. This bottle tasted blind is not the most perfect with a level of reduction that will dissipate and improve but there is some other distracting material involved. Suppresses the tannins and quickens the finish.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Badarina Vigna Regnola 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Just over 1,000 bottles are produced of this single block Barolo located within the larger MGA of Badarina, an amphitheatre facing full south right in the heart within the larger southeast by southwest vineyard. The section of the vineyard that has always been planted to nebbiolo, going back to Martina Fiorino’s grandmother’s time in the 1960s, even when ripeness would have been suspect in some vintages. Now only made in the best vintages, previously as Riserva in 2016, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009. The change of labelling laws means no longer using Riserva, switching to Albeisa bottles with this 2020 and dio mio man is this a completely singular expression, especially the combination of closed aromatics, juicy acidity that attacks the side of the palate and an intensity all of its own accord. The finish is firm, tense and nervous. Very special Barolo. Tasted January 2024

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Baudana 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Taut and not yet gregariously aromatic but sometimes you just feel the Serralunga d’Alba potential ahead of the early stages and behind the veil. The fruit is surely substantial and ripe without gratuity, neither in glycerin nor by simple syrup acidity. Fulsome Barolo in so many respects with really fine-grains of tannins keeping things linear, moving and real. The future will help to define this nebbiolo’s set of strengths. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024.

Brovia Barolo DOCG Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Simple and highly effective nebbiolo here from Serralunga d’Alba, tart though not too intense, direct yet far from vivid. Good quality fruit under the cover of ever so slight reduction and a liquid white pepperiness that adds a buzz of energy to the structural mix. The wood is a bit on top but not far from dropping down below. Good wine, very correct and quite satisfying. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Intensity of many parts, none of them fully out in the open or yet known. A cask sample of strength and yet some maturity in evolution is sensed. Or experience rather, of powerful restraint, quality fruit ripeness and development, then finally structure. The acids are great and the tannins thick as thieves while the wood still whips the entirety of the entity into shape. This could have been a train wreck but it instead is on the way to excellence. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Cerrati, Serralunga d’Alba

High fructose, pectin and glycerol example of nebbiolo for Barolo that once again shows how warm and developed Serralunga d’Alba fruit can be. You will not find these levels from Roddi, Novello or La Morra, that much is clear. This is luxe and substantial, with acids and tannins equal, opposing and ready for the game. Lights, camera, action, in a few years. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: A sample yet a mature one – this is quite advanced for a Barolo not yet committed to bottle. Happens sometimes when samples are pulled. They can oxidize and not show the true value and potential of what will be the final blended wine. This is such a moment.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

G.D. Vajra di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine showing from the start for this nebbiolo out of Serralunga d’Alba with ripeness and really expressive fruit. Just that right mix of tart, tang and natural sweetness for acids to get with, support and extend. It’s all here, available and on display for Barolo of substance and stature. The tannins dry but they are impressively woven into the tactile fabric of this wine. You can really sink your teeth into this one and should be able to continue doing so for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bugia Nen di Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A reduction and while a stronger one than some it’s nothing that can’t be seen as soon to blow away. Some savour here, somewhat unusual for the vintage because 2020, especially from Serralunga d’Alba makes for anything but verdant, brushy and dried herbal Barolo. And then the animale comes – Brettnomyces that’s more than horse hair but reminding of the barn’s floor. This is problematic.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Garesio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine aromatic presence here from Serralunga d’Alba, an energy of fruit and acidity together with more of a red citrus currant-pomegranate-balsamic mix than most. More like La Morra in this sense but nebbiolo are snowflakes, anything can happen and open-mindedness is key. The palate is chewy and equally vibrant, the tannins sweet and tightly assembled, the chains intact and the tact of this wine lies in its balanced attack. Hyper real, focused and generous to a degree of restraint. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Schiavenza di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Reductive and an aromatic mix of tomato plant, fruit, iodine, plasma and band-aid. Another savoury Serralunga d’Alba though there are not many of them and this is the sort that imagines rosemary, fennel and tarragon. Complex and very woody, a bit stemmy and yet time will heal, bind and bring together all parts. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alessandro Rivetto Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yet another cask sample that’s surely oxidized. One has to question why producers send these in. Nothing to go on as to the what, where and why of the wine.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine and restrained nebbiolo, good quality Serralunga d’Alba fruit, acids equal to the task, supportive and lively. Neither wood nor tannin are overt but there is spice and grip if more so piquancy to this Barolo. Mid-term ager, best in a year and for four to six more. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga Cru

Enrico Serafino Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Lovely nebbiolo for Serralunga d’Alba, a swirl of ripe red fruit and the subtle imagination of mineral lined within. A potency but not a powerful push of anything in particular and a Barolo of admirable restraint. Liquid chalky, far from dusty, hinting at but never really lashing out as herbal balsamic, a challenge for the palate but a good one, physical and healthy. Balanced and well paced, long and true. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Schiavenza di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Taut surely and vaguely reductive while fruit is of high quality and comes across purposed, trenchant and fine. Some of that swarthy nebbiolo volatility, more from the wood than anything else and just a bit distracting. Still there is some charm and the wine will find its moments to shine. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

True blood orange example of Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo, more like La Morra in that sense but the depth of fruit and texture are all of this commune. Well paced and structured Barolo to be sure, one, two, three, tick, tick, tick, rhythmic and metronomic. A chewy quality, chocolate from the wood, a fine swirl and variegation, modernity and chic style. The legions will line up for bottles of this fine Barolo that represents the finest non-cru value for Serralunga. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Tight Barolo here from Serralunga d’Alba, a bit wood inflected this early and some austerity makes this feel older-schooled in style. The palate confirms this idea and no doubt there is traditional conformity in the heart and mind of this nebbiolo’s maker. Needs time and will become the classic it was meant to be. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Quite reductive with wood very much in change for an austere and challenging example of Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo. Old school Barolo for sure, of spice, more pepper than salt in its seasoning and finally that savoury tomato plant notation that seems a hallmark of traditional Serralunga Barolo. A fruit sweetness comes out at the finish to speak of promise and a finer future that lays ahead. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boasso Franco Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Now here is a fine example of Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, classic in its suave red fruit, musky skin-scented and rich without excess. All the ancient and rustic secrets are part of this Nebbiolo’s DNA and style – the gentle swarthiness, the animale, charcuterie cure, fruit skins and dusty structural hints. The shadows and seduction, sneaky tannins and sweetness of fruit. This is in fact the real deal with the kind of maturity that speaks to experience but not evolution. A wine that has already achieved a level of understanding but will live for decades of time.  Drink 2027-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sordo Giovanni di Sordo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Light and refreshing nebbiolo, taut and yet rising, airy and just about ready for its time. The window is open, the wine is quaint and the structure simple. Nothing to wait on here. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Garesio Barolo DOCG Gianetto 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Red to darkening fruit, ripe and well developed, a different sort for Serralunga d’Alba but openly expressive and musky skin-scented. Quite tart and piquant, high acid, balsamic reduction and savour. Very complex, highly regarded and ready for action. A buzz of a Barolo, predicated on acids more than tannin and a terrific Tajarin pairing for the short term. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Light, open, fragrant and ethereal. There will be brightness at all times, the skies will always be blue and at no time should this be looked upon as a heavily structured wine. No this is scintillant nebbiolo as Barolo, perfumed, not without wood, but delicate and fine. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boasso Franco Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Quite a woody and fortified example, boozy, grippy and swarthy. Challenging now but will settle in given a few years of time. For now put these away and wait. Good substantial fruit and high acid, balsamic, savour and tannins very much in charge. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Pretty nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba, what could be called “carissima,” gentle and nurturing for the palate. A Barolo for what ails, a soothing and satisfying sip without undue stress or unneeded tension. Purity, red fruit incarnate and fine acidity. No grip or density, not particularly structured but really fine. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: A proper cask sample, tight, closed and yet obviously refined. Silken and smooth but far from open, clearly still reductive and truly taut. No real density and understood as an example of Serralunga d’Alba. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024.

Vietti Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A chalky crayon or waxy opening, taut and tight, very specific to the commune of Serralunga d’Alba while here even more focused and implosive. A cru iteration no doubt of a place within the greater village and something needing years to unwind. No density and the balance is noted as a make-up of parts equal in stature. Certainly a crunchy wine with some savour but a fine salty meets natural sweetness cohabitation is what fuels this ideal. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pira Luigi di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Marenca 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yes this acts tight and closed but its also teases with weight and a level of local savoir-faire intensity. Rich nebbiolo, liquid chalky, musky fruit skins and a fine red fruit liqueur. Some potential though acids are on the lower end of the pole. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pira Luigi di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Margheria 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Tighter than some though not a completely closed example from the barrel. Rich and concentrated, good tannic presence and fine acids too. A wine of good and proper potential. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG Meriame 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A purity of fruit and so very Serralunga d’Alba with the scrape of skins as much tart stone fruit as red citrus. Wood very much an early factor used well and set up to elevate fruit, not smother it. What would be quantified as medium acidity, nothing shocking and a good Barolo though not exactly structured for decades of growth. Good in the mid term. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

More fruit, full and substantial qualities here in Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo for the vintage while charming and ready for growth. The acids are very much in line, the wood well managed and tannins of a fineness, if softer than some, certainly miles from austere. Everything on the same page and perhaps there is a sneaky aspect to the structure that will see to longer aging than perviously considered. Length is very good. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Reductive in liquid peppery but also a slightly rubbery way with warming alcohol noted on the liquor of perfume. This is a Serralunga d’Alba more about weight and silken texture than structure, in other words something to drink in the short term. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Parafada 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A mix of sweet fruit cup and Amaro liqueur in a Serralunga d’Alba Barolo as silky as it is openly generous. A nebbiolo of great perfume and ease, moderately structured and acids much like the fruit, also easy to assimilate. Suave and drinkable so early in its tenure. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bugia Nen di Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Prapò 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Not openly fragrant though the subtlety here is imagined as lovely, easy and clam. Lithely tart and relatively simple, especially as Barolo but as for Serralunga d’Alba it’s not exactly out of synch wth the friends whom erst you know of 2020. Basic and serviceable. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Prapò 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Aromatically speaking a truly substantial Barolo for Serralunga d’Alba, classic in every way, from the depth of red fruit through to the silky tannins that speak of their grip. A chewy nebbiolo and one of restrained yet sneaky power that just has to live longer than many of its ilk because it is relentless in a pursuit through finesse while looking for glory. Great vintage and result beyond the shadow of a doubt. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide Barolo DOCG Serra 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yet another oxidative sample. Happens too often.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Sorano 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba defined by Ribena and an acetic edginess that distracts from both fruit and structure. These issues are problematic.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG Vignarionda 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Strong mocker this Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, full, substantial and showing its alcohol in a vintage where the numbers are sometimes high and sometimes low. Warm location and ripeness is high while tannins rumble along. A potent Barolo that finds its balance between equanimous parts and one that also integrates quite a bit of wood without issue. Should live quite long. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Plin – La Piola Alba

Verduno

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG del Comune di Verduno 2020, Verduno

High toned, tart, tight and almost but not quite bracing nebbiolo. Lots of substance and sweet to sour acids keep the energy and the flow while tannins are in that medium range for few stops and plenty of go. Nothing crazy complex but well made and nearly ready. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bosio Family Estates Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2020, Verduno

Notably reductive style, a redacted fruit way for Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo, backwards and not quite ready to go on sale. Good substance behind the years, really cool, salt-licked acidity beneath the veil and tannins not far behind. Rich nebbiolo, truly Barolo, some fine bitters and overall an impressive package that speaks in clear vintage vernacular terms. Long life coming up. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2020, Verduno

Now to Verduno with a closed nebbiolo of perfumes uncorked. Lots of fruit and wood spices, a spicy capsicum accent and overall a great complexity that piques both palate and overall interest. Barolo of potential, no density but good weight, measures and balance. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Castello di Verduno Barolo DOCG 2020, Verduno

Rich aromatic liqueur out of this nebbiolo from Verduno, plummy and citrusy red fruit mixed wisely and evenly together. Quite tart and lots of tang, the citrus in full swing and finally with pith and skin scrape all over the finish. Red citrus incarnate, even a some pink grapefruit at that end. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Riva Rocca 2020, Verduno

Richness of fruit with plenty of citrus scrape but also some acetic moments, not to mention wood all over the aromatics. Vanilla at the top, lavender in the middle and spice masala down below. The barrel has been leaned on heavily and while the fruit is pure it is not quite concentrated enough to fill the middle. So that’s where the wood really comes in, to consecrate the action and in the end the wine dries out as a consequence in result. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo di Verduno 2020, Verduno

First sample TCA. Second pour musky red fruit Verduno, a nebbiolo of really suave texture, stylish and well heeded. Acidity is sweet and so very complimentary, texture continues along a fine and metered path, scale is fit to tie the whole package beautifully together. Unfortunately the second bottle is also just slightly corked. Can see past it but need to re-taste.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pelassa Daniele Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo di Verduno 2020, Verduno

High tonality specific to Verduno and here a really good example of that commune’s ability and style. A rich liquor of red citrus fruit and buzzing acidity mixed with the scapes of skins and tart textural spurts. As with many 2020s there is no real presence of harsh tannin nor any density in these nebbioli. Charming and a great Barolo for local cuisine. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Comune del Barolo

Barolo

Borgogno Serio, Boffa Federica e Bolla Emanuela Barolo DOCG Albarella 2020, Barolo

First maturing, phenolic, sound and collected nebbiolo from Barolo commune. Darker of fruit, perhaps the harbinger for the Barolo to come from Barolo environs. Feels like a true Villages example, not site specific but a collection of pure samples from across the land. Proper if already fit immediate for consumption. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gomba Barolo DOCG Boschetti Sernie 2020, Barolo

A Barolo from Barolo with wisdom already gained and secure in pocket. Darker fruit, well developed and advanced phenolic presence, yet higher acidity and finishing at dustiness, plus balsamic. The acids needs to relinquish a part of their sharp piquancy to see this drinking at peak. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

460 Casina Bric Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Bigger bones for Barolo, at least relative to others of the vintage and yet once again we see a vintage stretched by late wet weather in and around harvest time. And yet there is great energy but also drive from this nebbiolo, with fine but also sweet acidity, drying plus fortifying tannin and an overall agitation that should and is wanted to be expected from correct Barolo. You will find that here. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

G.D. Vajra di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Less dark inflections to the red fruit profile, higher tonality that edges to certain precipices though aromatically refined enough to hover at or just below the peaks. A Barolo of great acidity, no relinquish or release and fruit locked in tight like savoury candy within a hard shell. Needs some time to crack as well as tannins that are running quite austere. Grippy, compact and trenchant nebbiolo at the peak of these promises. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mario di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Acetone off the top, tough nebbiolo nut to crack, deep red fruit, some resins by musk and wood, dusty, laden with balsamico. Old school, austere and vivid to intense. Hyper real. Drink 2026-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Renato Buganza Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Good version of a cask sample, far less oxidative than many and so one actually worthy of assessing to get a glimpse of the future. Some of the finer fruit captured and locked tightly within, a burst of blood orange, some phenolic grip and real-time tannin speaking to longevity. Drink 2027-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Serio, Boffa Federica e Bolla Emanuela Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Not all samples drawn from cask or tank are created equal, some are oxidative (or oxidized) and others, like here, are missing their settled balance with high acetone qualities. Still you can intuit fine bones and soon to emerge flesh that will have this drink in better steading. Time is the ally for this sample. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cannubi

E.Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

By now it is well understood that the tannins in nebbiolo from the village and commune of Barolo are grippier and more austere than the others and the affinity with the previous vintage is also closer than from anywhere else. Here grips an example of quality fruit held oh so tight by those structural fortifications, unrelenting, in vice hold and far from letting go. Here is a serious wine, the kind that will impress and instigate great discussion but at least five years will need to pass before these events can occur. Drink 2028-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Big boned Barolo contrasted against high-toned nebbiolo for a disparate mix of grip and fruit compote that is a challenge to get around. The palate is an improvement though the austerity and the tannic truth brings so much tension for more late difficulty that bookends this wine of tension. Solicits some anxiety to be honest. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Dried fruit on the nose, an advancement noted, herbals and Amaro dust spicing. Seems at first to be a drink sooner rather than later nebbiolo but it is Barolo so there is always a realization that another phase will surely come and this example is expressive of a fine flavour profile in the face of tannins that are severely dry and soul-sucking. Adds up to knowing that waiting is the best option and waiting to see what will come next. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

L’Astemia Pentita Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: One of the oxidative samples, not the worst mind you but not a great indicator nonetheless. Accentuates Ribena, dried fruit molasses and austerity in the tannins. Delivers far too much wood duff and spice. Certainly not an exemplary indicator for this wine. Need to re-taste.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

A phenolic example of nebbiolo, neither the norm nor the exception for Barolo from Barolo because there are a few that nose out this way. Crisp and crunchy as well, with herbs both dried and fresh, a rise and lift on the palate and cool minty breathes going forward. Feels like a Barolo form a place within the commune, an MGA that can’t help but react and act this way. So curious! Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Réva Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

One of the more closed, markedly grippier and taut nebbioli from Barolo, again likely something cru imagined because of the singularity of its character. Quite sanguine in fact, with moments of iodine, blood orange zest and the these really layered tannins. No lack for barrel effect as well but the sheathing works well on the fruit and the compaction feels like it will slowly release and elasticize over time. Gotta be something important because the length is outstanding. Drink 2027-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

High aromatic effect, a wave of hue, winds and airy sweetness, citrus in many parts, of oranges and reds. Brilliant perfume, bright of tones, pretty dabs of smells and pliant. Weight if also also weightless palate, more wood noted, chalky, mineral and quite intense. A wine in many parts that should surely find its way to come together. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

The spectrum of Barolo nebbiolo is great with iterations all across the line yet tired together by a commonality of threads that really isn’t noted in everywhere else, save perhaps for Monforte d’Alba? This is softer, more resolved and simpler Barolo, tannins showing the least amount of austerity, a social sip that can be enjoyed just about anytime you feel it’s right. No grip or tension, lots of wood mind you but the vanilla-white chocolate-berry swirl is a blindfold for full transparency of varietal character. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

A closed if demure nebbiolo yet there is a feeling of full aromatics but they just aren’t ready to come forth. A firth of salsa readies in wait and when the austerity of structure decides to melt into the overall fabric, well then the levee can break and the estuary of fruit will almost surely run free. There is a chewy liquorice textural sensation that acts out a part currently in disconnect but the twain should be eliminated and the twinning aspects will come to be conjoined before too long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Barale F.lli  di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2020, Barolo

Buggy, acetone, distracting and ultimately faulted. Some dirty wood and a touch of Brettanomyces as well – dries the tannin into a brittle mess.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2020, Barolo

Lighter, brighter, airy nebbiolo with blood orange skin scraped and zesting the aromatic profile. Wood spice as well for a lot up front which is not so typical of Barolo by Barolo. Once again it must be an MGA directive because when a most interesting wine comes to the table without faults it just has to be cru relatable. That said there is some maturity and Amaro bitters involved so the thought concerns a warmer vineyard mixed with a wet harvest. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Camparo Barolo DOCG Barolo Coste di Vergne 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Pretty fresh for a cask sample, airy, bright and bursting with red fruits. Berries (getting strawberry specifically) and the Tuscan like Corbezzolo though it’s also a cache (persimmon)-pomegranate type of citrus too. Great acidity and stage presence, fine if not head splitting tannin and finally length to indicate a really beautiful potential for Barolo. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gomba Barolo DOCG del Comune di Barolo 2020, Barolo

Now sink your sense into the fineness of this nebbiolo and transported to Barolo you will be, in imagination and also fantasy, to come away at the finish firmly entrenched in true blue Barolo cru reality. The near pitch perfect mix of fruit, phenolic ripeness, the creative power of architectural engineering and compositional design all conspire for what expectation and dreams decide. There is nothing out of sorts or place and the composure is something to be admired. It would shock if this were not a Barolo composed by a great (or even unheralded) producer that simply gets it, gets lucky and heeds their place in vintage plus località. Drink 2028-2040.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo Essenze 2020, Barolo

A nebbiolo with the cheese rind notation straight away and the musk of charcuterie skin. A cured effect that happens and when it’s found there is knowledge accrued. An old school feeling but also one that tells about producer and place. The finishing grip and austerity confirms the thought and ties the nebbiolo room together. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Barolo DOCG Fossati 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Relatively fresh and forthright sample which is always a good sign and makes us think it’s not such a bad idea to submit these variable nebbiolo for assessment. This is in fine shape, closed, taut and firm but fruit is substantial and the future looks quite bright. This producer gets something out of the exercise and that can’t be said for many. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bussia

Barale F.lli  di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2020, Barolo

Bright but not the brightest, phenolic if the not the most phenolic and firm if far from the grippiest nebbiolo from Barolo. Tart and plenty of tang, a bit a dried fruit but enough freshness to keeps things honest and driven through not what could be called a ball of energy. Ultimately a mid-weight, mid-term ager for Barolo. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bric Cenciurio di Pittatore A e A Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2020, Barolo

Quiet yet composed, rich and powerfully restrained, mature, experienced and lending a very important Barolo impression. A warm cru location, phenols ripe and spices accentuating the entire experience. A great use of barrels and casks, mixing and matching of intentions from what is without a doubt a trenchant, serious and potentially profound Barolo. No messing around here, all parts working together and a decade plus another half are the guarantee. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Barolo DOCG 2020, Barolo

No lack for aromatic grip if slightly hot as compered to some nebbiolo, from Barolo but this is juxtaposed against a brightness and breathes of fresh if also sweet fruit air. Got that blood orange and sanguine run of liquidity through the veins and acids mature to rush through in synch. The feeling is one of sweet and sour, fluid and drying, grippy, mildly austere and in the end quite proper for the singularity of cru involved. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Paiagallo 2020, Barolo

A simpler life lived by nebbiolo to represent the plausible, approachable and getable side of the Barolo village. A place within the place that delivers ease and amenability so try this one on for early drinking size. There are some tannins but they are soon to fully resolve. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

Wet red crayon opening, a waxy-chalky red brushstroke that fills the top of the page like a beacon and what follows will be paid close attention. Phenolic yet with a hint of green, tart as expected yet softer of tannin because the wood is thick and thickens the texture pasted upon the palate. There is a pulpy, almost mulchy feeling and the puréed flavours fall in line just like that. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

A lighter touch but also one that comes along with acetone, not overt or dangerous but certainly there as nebbiolo is want to do. Especially from a location that might have received more rain at harvest than some others. This and the wood have softened the overall expression and so the window opening will be the one closing not too long after. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

Quiet and unassuming nebbiolo, atypical for Barolo, in waiting with no hurry to be exposed. Fine enough, a bit thin ad hollow up the middle, drying late and finishing with just a whisper. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cagliero Barolo DOCG Terlo 2020, Barolo

Some dirty wood straight off the reductive top and also an oxidative maturity. Old school style, low level concentration and very little charm. Time will soften the edges but also further flatten the sensations. No real joy I’m afraid. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Castiglione Falletto

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: Fresh squeeze of blood orange, juicy if peppery reduction, piquant and plenty of piqued interest. Wood very much involved and in charge, big chains of tannic command. Needs time and more time. Loads of potential. Drink 2027-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boroli Barolo DOCG Brunella 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Spicy and phenolic, a grippy nebbiolo with a green streak but that verdancy is likely a matter of local savour by way of savoir-faire. Not the most concentration or fill up the middle so harvest rains were most likely a factor but this will do well in the mid term and well represent Castiglione Falletto as Barolo. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Solid, correct and believable nebbiolo as Barolo with the classicism of Castiglione Falletto’s red fruit profile as specific and should plausibly be. A mix of liquorices, sweet wood spice and sun accumulation by hillsides soaking it up and getting together for a real version of this village self. Good work, not for decades but a Barolo to enjoy late into this one. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG del Comune di Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cool, salt-licked, fresh and crisp nebbiolo profile, aromatics sharp and pointed with air and sky true and blue. The barrel stays in the background but the same can’t be said of the tannins which spike and then dry, every bit as much as they should. Truly proper and correct iteration for Castiglione Falletto and 2020. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG del Comune di Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Citrusy red fruit but also a cheese note straight away making cause to consider a minor microbial fault as part of the fabric in this wine. It’s not at the top mid you but a good long inhale finds it to indicate it will rise to the surface before too long. Meanwhile the palate is softened and flattened so you know there is some trouble further along. Carry on because there are some lovely moments to pull from this Barolo for Castiglione Falletto. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG Montanello 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Here nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto is predicated on acidity that can’t be immediately ignored while fruit is mix of berries and citrus, both equal and equally supported by the acids. Carries over to a fulsome and substantial palate that wells and collects on the surface surfeited by gravity without rising back up again. A composed and nearly ready Barolo with short term goals. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ettore Fontana Barolo DOCG Livia Fontana 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Lighter and brighter, high-toned for Castiglione Falletto and so closer in both weight and temperament to high level Langhe nebbiolo. Not to diminish Barolo or discredit this fruit source but the combination of warmth and harvest wetness has resulted in a less than concentrated example for Barolo. Wood fills in the holes but we know those flavours, appreciate the effort and understand the overall result. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boroli Barolo DOCG Classico 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Big aromatic entry, notably fleshy and solid construct for which bones and barrel combine to set this Barolo up for a potential to effectuate a high level of success. Sometimes you can just feel the mix of correct and acumen in a nebbiolo that puts its best foot forward and ties all parts together. This from Castiglione Falletto should do well to live a good, long and prosperous life. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bovio Gianfranco di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Parussi 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Zesty, red citrus opening, pectic and mild glycerin, all red feels all the time. So very Castiglione Falletto and especially for the vintage and if it were to be compared to any other commune this time around it would have to be Serralunga d’Alba. Lighter and more elastic wines, some very pretty, yet in the vintage not many that will age forever. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brovia Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione 2020, Castiglione Falletto

More exotic and fulsome aromatic presence from this particular nebbiolo out of Castiglione Falletto. A Barolo with substance and next level concentration, a wine of juxtapositions and complexities. Tropical fruit perfumes join the local and knowable, flavours follow suit having transitioned dutifully and seamlessly. Their is a great tannic presence and length down to the valleys and back up again. The potential this time around is indeed one of promise and knowing nods are had all around. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Fine aromatic expression here from Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo, a burst of sunshine and savour, a feeling that ripeness is equal between fruit and acidity. No green notes and yes the wood brings both spice and liquid chalkiness but this is the vintage so don’t come around with the expectation of 45-60 days of macerazione Piedmontese to qualify silken glycerol textures. Accept the reality and see the forest for the trees. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: A combination of oxidation and wood aromas. Not a flattering sample and no indication of the true nature of this particular wine. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ettore Fontana Barolo DOCG Villero Livia Fontana 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Yet another lighter and flatteringly brighter nebbiolo from and for the vintage causation that speaks to Castiglione Falletto. This is however a fine and pure example from the commune with more finesse and precision than many to indicate MGA speciality but also producer ability. A 2020 that was paid great attention in the fields, through ferments and finally elévage to make certain respect is heeded so that the best wine could be made. The structure here is impeccable, regardless of the level of concentration and beauty will always be a hallmark of this special wine. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barolo DOCG Villero 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Wood off the top in piques and piquant spice, dried herbs and phenolic bites. Some greens and Castiglione Falletto lightness of vintage being, clearly well composed yet the challenges faced put this Barolo in obvious light. Fine and correct but sometimes things and especially successes just don’t come easy. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tajarin – Trattoria della Posta, Monforte d’Alba

Monforte d’Alba

FrateIli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome, grippy and phenolic with solid ripeness achieved with a Monforte d’Alba Barolo that shows more strength than many of other commune or village idiom. Closer to Barolo in these regards and of nebbiolo as much about form as they are about function. There is a sweetness about the trilogy of fruit, acid and tannin, all together, in line and softening as it goes. Very solid near term example. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Less of a full and surely far from brooding nebbiolo form Monforte d’Alba but still of darker fruit and more substance than say Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba. Also lower levels of wood spice and piquancy with this most settled and softening 2020. The threads are coming together and the vision of what’s what also closer into view. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Gigi Rosso Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Oxidative to the point that the fruit feels overly mature and quite frankly cooked. Yet another sample that teaches little about the future of a nebbiolo as Barolo.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Grippy and phenolic aromas, grabbing the olfactory with a firm and closed fist. Ripe and developed fruit juxtaposed against a backdrop of taut and drying tannin. A bit of a disconnect but the chasm will shorten with a few years in bottle and the consideration should be to drink this Barolo quite soon after that. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A brighter and higher toned example of Monforte d’Alba Barolo here with the blood orange mixed with other red citrus notes, though the fruit is darker as compared with some other commune’s character. Really fine palate transition with increased energy and notable wood use that lifts and extends the positive personality of this wine. Never too grippy or tannic but length is impressive and the finish supports the claim. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A most curious aromatic nebbiolo display for Monforte d’Alba and one to spend quality time investigating, considering, postulated over and getting to know. A mix of exotic red fruit, oscillating phenols and gastronomic scents that all combine for complexities not oft imagined. Musky skins, of fruits, vegetables, animals, cheeses and salumi, in and out of view with perfumes by tinctures and bitters too. Wildly complex Barolo, no lack for acidity and tannins of a grippy yet not too much tension in their touch. There is something musty however and were it not present this might be an exception for the vintage. As it stands an evergreen and clove note does distract but there is no denying how close this came to greatness. A second pour improves the impression but not perfectly so. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Rich and unctuous nebbiolo here, a vision of Monforte d’Alba loveliness and concentration, fine and expressive. Rich aboard the palate in the same way to extend from the aromas and put this is fine, seamless and well executed fashion. Truly solid Barolo, exemplary for vintage and place. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alberto Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A petrol or gaseous note here for nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba, deep red fruit, musky and citrus scraped, nearly blood orange but definitely sanguine. Also iodine and creosole, not antiseptic but chemical, in a way. Finer on the palate, meaning less synthetic but the wine flattens and quickens to finish with haste. A bit pasty in the end. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Amalia Cascina in Langa Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigna Fantini 2020, Monforte d’Alba

The smell of red crayon, charcuterie and petrol, not entirely unusual for Monforte d’Alba and a particular part, vineyard or block that just seems to have suffered more from wet conditions at harvest. Wood fills in the holes and the wine does fine, though does not excite. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Attilio Ghisolfi di Gianmarco Ghisolfi Barolo DOCG Bussia Bricco Visette 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Stoic Monforte d’Alba and while not overtly aromatic there are plenty of indications that perfumes and complexities are waiting patiently in the wings. Top quality fruit and a speciality of location put this nebbiolo in a prudent to potentially profound place, especially because the palate paints a masterpiece and length goes on forever. Top Barolo in this glass as it pertains to the commune. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Not the normal or at least expected perfume of Monforte d’Alba but 2020 is variable and a vintage expressive of so many different aromas. The scrapes of skins is akin to some sister and brethren, in particular the red fruit and salumi. Mix in some phenolic grip and Amaro spice to create a gregarious mix before a sip is even entertained. Quite woody on the palate while piquancy and flavours are mixed if also layered. There is modernity here – but also ambition. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome, easy, simple and soft, especially for Barolo from Monforte d’Alba. Wood is a major factor, milk chocolate fills the gaps with sweet-ish flavours while the remainder dries out and makes for constricting palate views. This is missing connections and threads that tie the room together. A bit disappointing for what feels like what would normally be an important wine. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Not one of the more oxidative samples but instead one of mineral, chemical and elemental waves. Closed yes but also a diesel or petrol smell. The conclusion once aging is how 70-80 percent of cask samples are simply not clear representations of what will become the (in bottle) finished wine.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigneto Bofani 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: One of the finer iterations of cask samples which puts this nebbiolo to represent Monforte d’Alba in the 20-30 percent that speak to the future of said wine. Deep and delicious red fruit aromatic profile, ripeness of acidity and tannins, sweetness of parts that pique interest as much as any of this idiom. Lots of wood but well heeded for a wine that can handle this kind of truth. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Yet another taut and stoic sort for Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo but one feels quickly that major potential lays ahead. Acts with experience and impunity, keeping ripe fruit locked in safe and also tight, surrounded by the kind of structure only a top cru and a maker with great respect can do. These are fine and supportive tannins and integration will come into effect further on down the road, even while we feel the wood acts as just a bit of a thickening agent at this very juncture. No worries because the architecture and ability for adjustment are sound. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Nothing else smells like this 2020 Barolo out of Monforte d’Alba, “absotively” nothing else. Hard to describe but a reminder that having been here before tells that this place is the only one to deliver this kind of nebbiolo. A candied red fruit and strawberry feel seems like the thing to say or at least imagine but the confection is unique. The wood only compounds the effect and confected notions which ultimately gang up on the palate and interrupt the party. The most drying tannins are on their own, do little to play or interact and the overall experience is simply not positive enough in the end. Kind of a train wreck actually. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Most of the initial aromas solicit positive thoughts about knowable 2020 Monforte d’Alba Barolo but something foreign infiltrates and distracts. A green note, a pique of crispy wood spice, a drying sensation that turns the tannins to brittle. Low level so it’s hard to define. Regardless the aridity and crumbling are real so not to be ignored. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Colla Barolo DOCG Bussia Dardi Le Rose 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Sweet and sour perfumes, fruit mainly but here also florals which is a blessing for the 2020 vintage in Barolo, especially from Monforte d’Alba because it is not what could be called a flowery vintage. Also a mineral feeling here, of chalky sand mixed with wood but in the end the flavours on this nebbiolo are those of fine natural sweetness. Good tart edges, also tension and parts quite in synch from start to finish. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A lighter and brighter aromatic perfume, rising and airy though thankfully so far from what would be considered or called acetic. Just fruit without dustiness or balsamico gariga, more like berries and sweet citrus, one of those rare nebbiolo that imagines raspberries – in fact the only one out of 200-plus tasted at this time. A crunchy example for 2020 and again, the first to induce that feeling of scorrevole, of the wine gracing and sliding across the palate, It is tannic however and needs quite a bit of time to come together. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A nebbiolo with a thickening texture, a bit starchy at this stage and clearly a matter of wood that texturizes, tenderizes and the fills the gaps where fruit could not do it alone. A very correct and yes finely traditional Barolo to speak for vintage and likely also place within a place. Well made, nothing grandiose and in the end a wine deserving of respect. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG Bussia Biologico 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Some acetic tones come quick and obvious with the scrape of red citrus and more wood spice than many. Perhaps not typical 2020 Monforte d’Alba Barolo but the vintage shows so much variegation, not only from commune to commune but also incrementally so within each one. This thins and hollows up the middle where the barrel piques higher and tighter, as it seemingly must to tie the wine together. The cellar work is noted and the arid finish certifies the result. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fortemasso Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fine stage presence here for nebbiolo, bright and engaging, ripeness achieved and concentration quite ample. Felt like a longer maceration than many, likely an outlier in this respect for the vintage and so that macerazione Piedmontese feeling is achieved. The palate seems to confirm what was purposed and while drying tannins suggest some austerity there is nothing to fret about or be concerned with because that style is par for the Barolo course. Should live a decade long at the very least. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Castelleto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Closed if also mineral, phenolic, minty cool and sapid. The first to be considered this way because there is neither a saltiness or a chalkiness to the aromas and also flavours. Cool, savoury, crunchy and gripped by tannic tension. Will be a bit too serious for some and just spot on for others. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sara Vezza Barolo DOCG Castelletto Persiera 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Slightly funky beats and phenolic grittiness get together for a nebbiolo of grip, pomp and circumstance. Liquid chalky, washed cheese rind sweetness and a liquidity more soup or salsa than stew. In others words a thickening agent of emulsion that is very present on the palate. Not the most pure or precise Barolo for Monforte d’Alba but well enough in the end. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Icollirossi Barolo DOCG Del comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Cask sample with TCA. Not a good thing.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Rich and inviting example of 2020 Barolo, softer than some others out of Monforte d’Alba but don’t sleep on these sneaky and grippy tannins. Purity of fruit, ripe yet low level phenolics and a lime saltiness that suggests minerals and therefore lower pH. Truly proper and highly expressive nebbiolo, modern to be sure but clearly a wine of great respect and also restraint, This is some of the finest barrel usage in the entirety of the vintage, no matter the commune or MGA. One of the top wines in so many respects. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cool, savoury, mineral and mint inflected, spiced nebbiolo with plenty of wood straight off the top. Phenolic and tart but even more so one of those Barolo that speaks of tang. Not a salty one and surely representative of the greater and broader idiom that is Monforte d’Alba. Fine enough, welcoming and in terms of flavour profile, really quite strong. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Ginestra Vigna del Gris 2020, Monforte d’Alba

High-toned, mildly acetic and carrying the balsamico gene in its DNA. Also a moment of Ribena, indications of verdancy but also quicker to elévage ferments. In this vintage the substance is diminished, as are the concentration and finesse of finer Barolo. Will come out of its shell and drink with better proportion because balance is there, if not the stuffing and breadth needed for long aging. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renzo Seghesio Barolo DOCG Ginestra Vigna Pajana 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Musty, possibly a small amount of TCA. Second bottle sound though still a bit of mustiness which indicates variability of problems in the cellar. Neither the freshest nor most expressive Barolo but the fruit quality that lies behind the issues feels like it’s pretty solid and pure. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renzo Seghesio Barolo DOCG Ginestra 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fine red fruit, not overtly perfumed but elegantly and classically arranged. A lovey swirl of what you look for in Barolo, not a wine of power but certainly a terrific expression of a unique sector within Monforte d’Alba. Finishes long and continuously engaging. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Lovely of upfront and expressive fruit without hesitation as a willing aromatic participant in this fragrant nebbiolo. Less of a power driven and grippy example of Monforte d’Alba which shows that MGA versions are finer, more precise and less direct than their Villages counterparts. There is a crunchiness and a delicate floridity here with tannins as long-chained as they are sneaky. Should see the middle of the next decade without much change and continue on well beyond. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Amalia Cascina in Langa Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

There are many opposite and apposite styles in 2020 Barolo, even within communes and here Monforte d’Alba does an about face in terms of MGA. Plenty of phenolic grip involved here, much like some Villages iterations and less like the nebbioli out of specific crus. Quite tannic and intensely drying at the finish so make sure salty protein is on the table, both now and when this wine settles down several years from now. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Diesel or at least mineral smell coming from what feels like will be a formidable creature of Barolo. Rich and potent, much sweeter fruit on the palate from what acts quite like modernized nebbiolo. Plenty of brut force, grip and intensity which puts this in a great place for those who want extreme sensations gained out of their Barolo experience. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Strong mocker this nebbiolo out of Monforte d’Alba with a heady aromatic push of weight and density. Some floral perfume but no matter how much this tries to deliver without compaction it just can’t seem to rise with any real lift. Full, substantial and conclusive. A big Barolo for fans of that ilk. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pecchenino Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Mildly oxidative sample, nothing egregious but neither operetta nor perfect in any case. That said there is a dill and stem effect to speak of some parts that have yet to clean themselves up so that the wine can currently speak of pure fruit, vintage and place. Remains to be seen if this one can get to that better place but the structural parts say that it will. Need to taste a finished bottle to draw a full and possibly finer conclusion. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

E.Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A softer and quicker to get at Monforte d’Alba Barolo with languid textures after the easiest of aromatics on offer. Fruit is very ripe, already maturing and while there are some peppery moments to the acidity it’s really nothing to run away from. Tannins are truly soft and without much parental control. Seems not to matter because this drinks so beautifully to tell us the maker felt that this was not a vintage to press or push. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Have nosed this before, this combination of acetic, Ribena, sweet and sour elements. Not the cleanest nebbiolo and not Monforte d’Alba representative at all. More than one technical flaw present in this wine.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Abbona di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Pressenda 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Medium intensity noted from the start with ripeness though edgy and savoury aromatics begin the begin. Good weight and a punchiness, then again of middle ground style and some old-school thinking definitely involved. Tradition followed in a pretty clean and crisp Nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba. Will age quite well. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cà Brusà Barolo DOCG del comune di Monforte d’Alba ‘Menico’ 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Markedly woody aromas, spices and capsicum spiciness, savoury to bitter herbs. Or like the smell of fresh cut tubers, wasabi even, freshly grated and getting up to clear the olfactory. Tart red fruit more stone than citrus, crunchy as nebbiolo, phenolic to a degree and more than ripe as needed. Quality Barolo overall and quite definitive as a Village example for Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castelletto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A middle ground Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo with some experience in old styling, genrous if judicious use of wood, tradition followed and an adherence to heritage. Classic in many respects, what many would expect and quite successful for the vintage. A solid and correct collection of 2020, Barolo and Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sordo Giovanni di Sordo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Perno 2020, Monforte d’Alba

On the bright, airy and sweet acidity side of the Monforte d’Alba tracks, staring at the more powerful and darker fruit versions on the other side and smiling, resistant, residing firm and comfortable in its skin. A style that is very attractive and one that speaks in gentle, pretty and nurturing tones. Sure there is wood spice and piques of savour but this beautifully maintains its brightness and litheness from start to finish. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Perno 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A step or perhaps two above the light and the transparent type, still fine and finessed but with an added level of grip and power compared to some in the variegate vintage. Chewy in fact (as opposed to crunchy) but still fresh, crisp and piquant. There is more substance in this nebbiolo without any compromise to energy or tension. Can see the longevity lingering well past the average for Monforte d’Alba and much of the rest of Barolo. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alessandria Gianfranco Barolo DOCG San Giovanni 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome and mostly ripe nebbiolo here from Monforte d’Alba though there is also a mild verdant streak running on through. Minty savour, cool runnings of herbs and spices with wood as the driver. Quality from the commune and a proper representation of vintage in so many respects but a reminder that the green note can’t be denied. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018

Viberti Giovanni Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2018, Barolo

Of the 13 Barolo Riserva on offer this in one that really speaks to the fruit and cask relationship because neither have really jumped the gun to truly advance or resolve. A testament perhaps to the ample and sturdy structure of this 2018 and it looks as though two more years will be needed to see any real change in the matter. Full, substantial and the kind of Barolo (from Barolo) that wants to take its sweet time. OK, so there are palate notes that indicate movement but this is very fresh and long from getting into secondary character. Still ways to go. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bergadano cav. Enrico di Bergadano Piercarlo Barolo Riserva DOCG Sarmassa 2018, Barolo

Wildly aromatic, nearly exotic and über fresh Barolo Riserva that belies age and speaks to tightly wound structure. Lots of wood however and so there is this gelato swirl of vanilla and chocolate flavours that dominate and dictate the style of the wine. A bit commercial and gratuitous in this regard but thankfully the winemaking and technical expertise are quite impressive. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacosa Fratelli Barolo Riserva DOCG Scarrone 2018, Castiglione Falletto

Not only has this 2018 Riserva advanced to a really fine place but it has done so as a quality representative of the grace, charm and nurturing style of Barolo out of the smaller and tight-knit commune of Castiglione Falletto. The mix of red berries and especially spice cupboard notes provided by the casks make for a fun, joyous and piquant ride in Barolo Riserva. Great energy persists and there will be five more years like this, with easily five more in a finely settled secondary zone. After that the tertiary will offer up nothing short of a smile. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Vignolo 2018, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: Truly sample territory with Barolo Riserva 2018 that is so far away from where it is intended to go. A good sample, clean and without any sort of must or oxidation, nor any moments of uncomfortable wonder. The wood is omnipresent and there can be no great reason to revisit for a at least two years. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina del Monastero di Grasso Giuseppe Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Rocca 2018, La Morra

A high toned Barolo here for Riserva, not shy and aromatically potent with up-level grip in that ilk. Power and phenolic bite, big fruit swells, candied florals macerating in simple sweet petal syrup and an Amaro liqueur so concentrated it’s hard to see through to the palate. Yet there are flavours just as ample and oozing, a La Morra of as much textural volume as any likely to be found. Modern and stylish, unabashedly beautiful and all the while sturdy, structured and the most un-skittishly Barolo in the books. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Rizieri Barolo Riserva DOCG Silio 2018, La Morra

Very pretty and floral Riserva, a Barolo from La Morra of silk and purity, beautifully aromatic with its natural perfume. Yet another stunner for the 2018s and the seance of modern nebbiolo captured. All that said the wood is so much more involved with waves of vanilla, lavender and graphite emanating, infiltrating and taking over the middle to latter stages of the wine. It’s beautiful but ultimately just a bit too much. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cà Brusà Barolo Riserva DOCG 10 anni Bricco San Pietro ‘Vigna d’Vai’ 2018, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Tight and closed sample but another one in very fine shape without flaws or mistakes made during the transfer to this anteprima. Liquid chalky, tart, tight and of as much tension as there can be in nebbiolo, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba and Riserva. A different sort for 2018 but also one that indicates the nature and idiom of its commune. Long life ahead and far from opening the window. Drink 2026-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2018, Monforte d’Alba

A more or further resolved Barolo here from Monforte d’Alba, fruit as a mix of fresh and also dried leathery style, acidity persistent but it too feels like it has done some travelling time. Not that the nebbiolo here has been unraveling, on the contrary it stands up linear and strong but namely because the wood is big and the tannins are tight. In the end the chocolate and even a moment of porcini are the defining factors that tell us the wine is entering its secondary stage and the best years are for here and now. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sara Vezza Barolo Riserva DOCG Castelletto Millenovecento48 2018, Monforte d’Alba

First bottle TCA. Second bottle just a bit musty but still lowest level of corkiness. Not perfect however and the palate is quite flattened by the flaw.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo Riserva DOCG Adasi 2018, Più comuni

Something unusual and clearly out of sorts on the aromatics. Paint thinner, essence of beet or the equivalent and so it smells earthy and volatile. Microbial in any case, in the irregular sesquiterpenoid-Geosmin way.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Enrico Serafino Barolo Riserva DOCG Briccolina 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

A fine and firm Riserva 2018 for Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, rich and piquant with red fruit galore by way of berries, citrus and plum. Indicative of all these skin scents and fleshy flavours, unhindered by wood and so simply the concept realized of nebbiolo unencumbered. Truly Riserva of style and effect, substantial and layered, fresh, generous and long. Really good wine. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Germano Ettore di Germano Sergio Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

A lighter Riserva here from Barolo out of Serralunga d’Alba, pulpy if not entirely fleshy, fulsome though not one of major concentration. Don’t sell its abilities short because the barrel fills in holes and increases the perception of flesh though it’s also a bit of a distraction. Chewy for 2018 and the commune, full and proper, ready to roll in just a short time. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Mauro Sebaste – Sylla Barolo Riserva DOCG Ghe 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

Big, boisterous and powerful Barolo as Riserva, especially for 2018 and yet right there for this aspect and trenchant intendment to support the possibilities out of Serralunga d’Alba. A wine of fruit times wood plus tannin factored with acids as the great catalyst to bring all of these extra weighty and special elements together. There is a minty savour here, capsicum spiciness and length for kilometres up and down these Langhe hills. This is truly extraordinary Riserva. Drink 2026-2039.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barolo DOCG 2010

Barolo DOCG 2010

Bric Cenciurio SSA di Pittatore A e A Barolo DOCG Coste di Rose 2010, Barolo

Showing its age, now resinous and that sense of “brewed,” like malted barley or Sake of a brown rice origin. Complex aromatics are the finest parts, of ginger and cardamom plus bokser pod, a.k.a. more interesting than liquorice. Full bodied, carrying its wood with distinction and while it’s clearly a nebbiolo from another era it has aged well and does well to represent a most important cru. Barolo’s Coste di Rose for the win. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG del Comune di Barolo 2010, Barolo

A single commune Barolo at 14-15 years may not always be expressive of that ideal mix between interest and longevity but Virna Borgogno’s Barolo has done quite well thank you very much. Yes the resins, saps and brews are all in the mix, tannins are quite brittle at this stage and the years have been gaining for at least five…but there is charm in these old bones. They creak but their stories are fascinating. Is that not part of the exercise and the goal?  Tasted January 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2010, Barolo

An aromatic pot full of spice and resins here, very wood directed but more complex than most and freshness persists in flavours still on the rise. True interest and not just for today but a nebbiolo that will continue to change and develop next stage notes over three-plus more years. Once again Sarmassa proves its worth as a cru that can age with charm, piquing spices and grace. Drying late but that is no surprise. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo Barolo DOCG Barolo Sarmassa – 10 Anni Edizione Limitata 2010, Barolo

Would have been released four years ago and would have been at peak but four more turns of the calendar have seen some tiring notes come creeping in. Now the wood is the dominant aroma and unfortunately the fine chocolate having already been consumed. Now resinous and dark soya brew, acids still high but fruit having faded away. Finishes with the aridity left behind by consuming tannins. A hot vintage is surely the reason and yet there is always some sentiment of charm in every bottle from this estate. Still there are surely better Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo bottles of Sarmassa 2010 out there that will show better than this.  Tasted January 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

A top echelon cru, a producer that gets it as well as if not better than the rest and an eponymous label out of a relationship that develops longevity without equal. That would be the thrilling isosceles trilogy of Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Bricco Boschis and Barolo. Their 2010 is as youthful as any nebbiolo of this age, striking, rising, invigorating and still working through its operations. A performance piece of varietal for landscape as the most terroir driven Barolo as any of the best in the land can be. A triangle of Castiglione Falletto that speaks in unequivocal terms, fruit, acid and tannin intertwined, five years of this life still laid out ahead, 10 further for curiosity and interest beyond. Truth. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted January 2024

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2010, Castiglione Falletto

Great showing here for Bava’s 2010 Scarrone, bright and fresh, fruit still in line with the structural parts of the wine. Just what aged nebbiolo as Barolo would be, crunchy and spiced, wood very much a part of its make-up but resting now in harmony. Some others show more complexity but most do not exist in a balanced bubble as this surely does. The crus of Castiglione Falletto hold these abilities and use them well. They are tops in 2010. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG Brunate 2010, La Morra

Quite mature, fallen fully into late secondary notes and already thinking about passing over to the tertiary. Puts the timeline into this and next year for likely the last of this stage. Earthy as much as any with porcini especially and the damp leaves of November. Chewy and tannic still, more than fun for a glass though be sure to do that today and move on to something other tomorrow.  Tasted January 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto e c. Barolo DOCG Case Nere 2010, La Morra

Still the linger of what was surely a very reductive nebbiolo and despite the advance of years that feeling can’t be shed. Covers up complexities and really only wood and earth are able to compose aromatic notes for Casa Nere. More like terre nere here because what’s underfoot is all that is nosed. The flavours are more interesting with some lingering berries and more so frutta do bosco but varnishes take over and finish the deal. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Mauro Molino Mauro Barolo DOCG Conca 2010, La Morra

A nose full of aromatic spices and a head full of wonder are what this engaging and spirited Conca by Molino will offer as a 14-plus year old Barolo. A relationship between producer and cru well defined and celebrated for us the beneficiaries in 2024. Delicious nebbiolo, a bit of extra wood as compared to what 2020 will show in 2034 but times they were and times they have changed. Our job is simply to roll with them. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2010, La Morra

Full disclosure: Not having tasted this blind the expectation for a 14-15 year-old nebbiolo from this kind of combination between producer and MGA is unabashedly high because, well Settimo and Rocche dell’Annunziata. A warm La Morra and Barolo vintage but one of the past and so boom, 2010 Rd’A is a smash. Maturing to be sure and also as complex, exotic and vital as they come. Seductive mix of fruit, nuts and marmalades that is usually only reserved for fortified wines. Close your eyes and imagine this mix between forty year-old vintage port and dry as the desert, decade and a half nebbiolo. That is Settimo’s functionality. Pour this with the Piedmontese cheese course – you can buy that thrill. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2024

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG Bussia 2010, Monforte d’Alba

Aging, settled and demure. Well past prime yet lovely and quietly generous. Fruit and spice no longer viable and a finish that’s quite drying. And yet there is grace and charm to speak well on behalf of Bussia in the hands of Silvano Bolmida.  Tasted January 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

A Gramolere for Monforte d’Alba wearing its years on both sleeves with leaves trampled underfoot and the warmth of fall more humid than crisp fresh air. Still the red fruits persist if dried, leathery and chewy but they do linger and bring palate joy. The wood has helped to age this 2010 quite comfortably well and so a glass more than works at this time. Must have food though because the tannins are persistently austere. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Though fully advanced and mature there is this linger of fruit and acid sweetness in Batasiolo’s Briccolina ’10. A mix of capsicum and baking spices brings accent to the residuals and all are gathered for the fidelity of what 14-plus year-old nebbiolo can spin. Proper old Barolo is something like this and who would not appreciate the blessing. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Germano Ettore di Germano Sergio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Ceretta may not be the first cru that comes to mind for a decade and a half of ideal longevity but this 2010 from the Germano family has done as well as any to hang around. Something still taut about the aromas, mature as they are but not yet having fully loosened or come undone. The laces on this nebbiolo must have been stretched tight from the start and so that structure has kept the wine intact. Plenty to hang onto, mull and chew, work with alongside local cuisine. Fine retrospective look. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Casa E. di Mirafiore & Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Well past prime, resinous and dirt at this time. The smell of compost and kerosene. No joy.  Tasted January 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

The 2010 Lazzarito by Famiglia Anselma feels like a nebbiolo as Barolo that has finished half or just a bit more of its secondary aging because some freshness persists while tertiary notes are also beginning to be imagined. This limbo is like a state of grace with best parts of all three worlds drawn Venn diagrammatically on overlap for maximum complexity. Hard to find a 2010 in better shape than this and while wood is a bit overdone there is so much else to go on for joy to be found and charm to applaud. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Nebbiolo of this age can manifest itself in so many different ways and Palladino’s Ornato is a truly singular Barolo. The most cool savour of this tasting, led by mint and chocolate, finishing with the cream of morels in their emulsified texture of nutty but also sweet butter. The perfect 14-15 year blanch of fruit and wood, energy alive, gently spiced and lingering with soft demure. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Sorano 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Showing every day of its 170-plus months of age past vintage in the here plus now of dark soy, chocolate and caramel. Quite akin to a Chocolate Cherry Blossom with the confiture ooze after a bite is taken with sweet wood flavours and resins running hither and thither. Fine enough for a glass with a cold day’s winter veal braise.  Tasted January 2024

Borgogno 2008

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008

Borgogno Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, Barolo

Now travelling back 16-17 years for Riserva out of the nebbiolo-Barolo relationship and there really shouldn’t be any shock that a Borgogno has lasted so well this long. Not to mention one of no mention, meaning a Villages example from Barolo commune. Incredible fruit longevity, true freshness as if grapes were cryogenically frozen in time and then poured from this bottle. It’s uncanny and the sort of age-ability most Barolo can only dream of. Forget how much tasters are want to say that Barolo can age for decades – this is the true definition of aging. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted January 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, La Morra

Fruit from more than one source around La Morra village has come together quite well in Gagliasso’s 2008 Barolo Riserva, a nebbiolo still standing vertical. With a lean of course but still one that has tested time and come out the other side. Plenty of residual wood in sap plus resin, fruit fully secondary and a really spicy tang. Sharp and pointed, angles and lines drawn this way the that, energy running quite high. Solid work out of 2008. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Barolo Riserva 2008

Barale F.lli  di Barale Sergio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2008, Monforte d’Alba

A much moire advanced nebbiolo here from Bussia and when compared to 2008 Riservas from La Morra or Barolo it just feels like this is a much older wine. That said the acidity is sweet, sour and happy so the Barale does have that in its corner. Not a sipping wine even at this stage but one needing food to tame its wild side. Tasted January 2024.

Sarotto Roberto Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, Più comuni

Can’t miss the wild strawberry out of this 17-plus year-old nebbiolo from Sarotto without any specific commune or mention to its name. A Barolo of ubiquity that has done well to gift some charm all these years later and one that could be sipped all on its own. The wood was big then as it is now but the mix of vanilla an lavender has melted into a gelato-like scoop of sweet flavour. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Good to go!

godello

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Twitter: @mgodello

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Nebbiolo Previews: Barbaresco DOCG 2020 and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

What’s in a vintage? If we are talking about 2020 Barbaresco there is so much to say because these are a group of nebbiolo that meet at the crossroads of variability, complexity, multiplicity and whimsy. At their finest the ’20s are a textural bunch, suave and sensorial because of high levels of glycerol and unctuousness. If there is density it’s of an elastic, chewy, often leathery and pliable kind. Many examples reach levels that heighten awareness and elicit deeper understanding of what it means to be Barbaresco. The best are the sort that exhibit experience, acumen, stage presence and when appropriate, also ambition. Top end Barbaresco are varietal distillate expressions of cru, soil, vintage and maker. Wines that finish with dignified tannins, often sweet ones that carry forward from nearly identical vintage acidities. Anyone will tell you that nebbiolo of this world are marked from the get-out, before they are bottled. Not all the 2020 Barbaresco can be credited as being exceptional but there are many worthy of kind and even reverential praise.

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

While it is said that as a rule the wines of Barbaresco drink earlier than those of Barolo, the fact of the matter is they are bottled earlier and a more recent vintage is presented at each anteprima. It must also be explained that Barolo’s tannins are never sneaky, more like in your face but those from Barbaresco can lurk beneath the surface, pounce when you least expect them and in some cases create nebbiolo of longevity that rival Barolo. This is one of the fascinations about Barbaresco, especially when tasted blind and young, because a taster is made to concentrate, focus and try to determine if there may just be wily structure laid in hiding inside the fortifications of a wine. Barbaresco is so often a crafty and cunning example of nebbiolo worthy of decades of time in the cellar.

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Barbaresco is so many things. A village, commune and also a set of wines made from nebbiolo grown on the right bank of the Tanaro River, southeast of Alba. The eponymous village is joined by three others, they being Neive and Treiso, plus San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, an outlying district of Alba. In geological terms, the Barbaresco wine growing area is approximately 23 to 5.3 million years old, belonging to the Miocene Epoch of the Tertiary Period. A drone’s view might say the area resembles a horse’s head, or more appropriately a cluster of nebbiolo grapes. In 2020 vine space increased to 783 hectares and for the first time production exceeded five million bottles (5,128,920).

If seeking Barbaresco cru from 2020 with a plan to hold and then drink well five through 15 years forward is the intended search, well then this Grand Crus like Asili, Rabajà and Martinenga will fulfil those hopes and dreams

There can often be depth to nebbiolo of no particular cru affiliation, a.k.a nessuna menzione but also those composed of fruit taken off of several vineyard sources, or what are called più comuni. The communes of Neive, Barbaresco, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio each produce different styles of nebbiolo but one thing is certain. Barbaresco wines as a whole are more identifiable than those from Barolo, mainly because the hectarage and diversity of soils are much smaller by comparison. Barbaresco are not younger siblings and while they are cousins they are the cool, hip, intriguing ones full of interest, fantasy and meaning. As for the crus (referred to in the Langhe as menzione), yes there are in fact those considered Grand. The ridge that includes Asili, Rabajà and Martinenga receive the greatest respect. These sites along with Neive’s Santo Stefano and Treiso’s Pajorè are considered the finest vineyards anywhere in the the entirety of the Barbaresco DOCG. For Barbaresco commune the top menzioni have been classified as Pajè, Pora, Asili, Martinenga, Montefico, Montestefano, Muncagota, Rabajà, Rio Sordo, Roncagliette and Secondine. Then there are Albesani, Basarin, Currá, Cottá, Gallina, Santo Stefano and Serraboella from Neive. Out of Treiso the higher mentions have been Bernardot, Bricco di Treiso, Pajorè, Rombone and Vallegrande. For San Rocco Seno d’Elvio; Meruzzano, Montersino, Rizzi (all these are shared with Treiso) and Rocche Massalupo.

Barbaresco and the Langhe

This 27th edition of Nebbiolo Prima took place in Alba back in January of 2023, with thanks to Albeisa and the organization’s President Marina Marcarino, along with Anna Barbon and Linda Foltran of AB Comunicazione. These 2020 Barbarescos are now showing up in the Canadian market and will continue to do so through the early months of 2024. Once again a reminder that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons and so consider this report as a relevant snapshot of those that did. These 77 tasting notes, which include some older vintages poured that week, tell a vintage story, or at least Godello’s interpretation of it.

Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Alba

Masseria Di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2020

Surely top of the pops and tip of the pips ripe fruit, some dry to leathery plum and cedar noes, a mature perfume all in all. Rescued by quality acids and a silky texture. Easy access all the way through with dignified tannins. Early drinking 2020 is the call, perhaps a factor of Montesino’s particular Alba exposure. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Adriano Marco E Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Reticent, compact, a bit hard to get. Also some proper nebbiolo volatility straight away. Surprising considering the villages-level cuvée though there is a good chance the fruit source is primarily from one block in a cru. A bit boozy feeling as well and then a repeat on the palate of what the aromas originally dictated. That being taut, weighty and non-disclosed agreements. There is depth to this nebbiolo of nessuna menzione and a year or so will likely release what’s base, right and necessary. Drink 2024-2026.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Rizzi 2020

Good brightness and specificity of place through quick-ish reveal, that being Rizzi from the commune of Alba and a nebbiolo that scents as one would 100 per cent expect. Rose petals, sweetly perfumed, almost candied and expressive, surprisingly early it should be noted. Full and generous palate, tons of fruit without fail or need of hasty retreat, therefore lingering and satisfying. Tannins are sweet as well, acids too. Fine wine though not for long term aging. Drink 2023-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Barbaresco

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2020

A bit more seriousness here from nebbiolo out of the Asili cru in the commune of Barbaresco. Far from draughty in fact this is a closed, hermetic and locked in environment where the perfumes and volatile compounds swirl in centrifuge. A wine of equally formidable and important structure, tannins persistent, semi-austere and very much in charge of the show. If seeking Barbaresco cru from 2020 with a plan to hold and then drink well five through 15 years forward is the intended search, well then this Asili will fulfil those hopes and dreams. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco Cavanna 2020

From Cavanna in the commune of Barbaresco and a lithe nebbiolo, quite tisane styled aromas, from Ceylon to Rooibos, in other words also equipped with the kind of tannins that feel seeped as opposed to buffering. An easy and rustic example to be fair, traditional yet accessible, one that won’t solicit suffering and ready as early as you choose. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2020

Faset delivers a higher tonality, not necessarily a brighter iteration but instead the kind of aromatic profile that heightens awareness and also sensation. Move quickly into the textural and structural parts and there is more of the same elevated feels, of unctuousness and glycerol, silky liquidity and organza layering. Here drinks a fine, moving and vintage appropriate nebbiolo, finely tannic, never dense or weighty, always on the upswing. Would wait a couple of years to see the grains melt further and really tie the room together. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2020

Different sort of aromatic profile here from Faset in Barbaresco, an almost gummy to plum-stick profile from start to finish. There is this disparate feeling ascertained, from sweet aromatics through to grainy tannins and a tacky profile in between. Nothing totally wrong and yet nothing quite right. Dries out at the finish and those tannins are all that remain. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Chiarlo Michele Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2020

Strong mocker aromas straight off the dense top of this Faset Barbaresco, fulsome, cumbersome and like a heavy cloud looming overhead. Quite a macerated plum note, not sweetly cloying but rather savoury, heady and weighty. Serious wine fully pressed, extracted and pulled from itself, dragging all the weight of the world while it carries this magnitude of fruit and tannin. Seems to seek the modern but can’t help bring all the rusticity and traditional ways along for the ride. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Tenute Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga 2020

Perfectly, beautifully and candidly simple but lithe, ripe, really elegant nebbiolo. Perfumes are intoxicants. Well-rounded and surprisingly easy to access. Drink 2024-2029.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cascina Morassino Di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Reductive as can be with seriously austere tannins and and nearly inaccessible as any Barbaresco 2020 you are likely to encounter. Just a wall of tannin with angular and angry notes, clearly built to age but even the micro-oxygenation of time in bottle under cork won’t happen fast enough. Not before what little fruit there is dies off well ahead of intended schedule. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Carlo Di Giacosa Mariagrazia Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Classic and traditional, sweetly rustic and old-school nebbiolo with no real invitation to specificity of place. A cuvée that speaks to a half century of making Barbaresco from these hills by combing fruit from several blocks to speak in a broad local vernacular. Austerity and demand of tannins are just what to expect and a long life where dried herbs, green notes and waning fruit will always be the way.  Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Carlo Di Giacosa Mariagrazia Barbaresco DOCG Montefico 2020

Full attack from a well-grounded cuvée that speaks in modern terms though not without well-pressed fruit dragging all the acids, tannins, elements and minerals along for the ride. A serious chemical compound of complexities await in a nebbiolo of no particularly focused origin. At one crunchy, like trying to bite through stones and then chewy, leathery textures, of liquorice and animal hides. Tannins build and build. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG Bric Balin 2020

Über cherry nebbiolo, suave yet tannic, inviting but admittedly intense. High tonality with some swarthiness though not overt and full fruit glycerin slide across the palate. A Barbaresco of density if the kind that is elastic, snapping back without too much recoil by force. Solid wine, mid to longer aging potential and a truly good example of the vintage. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Gone for broke, ripe to the nth degree nebbiolo, pressed and excited to show what it’s got. A Barbaresco villages appellative wine, almost a syrupy swirl of perfume, of plums and black cherries, evergreen and mint. Some varnish as well so you can really feel the skin-contact macerate juices swelling and then come the tannins, marching in, connected on a chain, one by one. Barbaresco of command, on the move, attack mode, restless and ruthless. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2020

A pinpointed Barbaresco with fruit selected from the Ovello cru, taut and closed nose, of strong grip and while this youthful it is yet to relent. One taste and you know this is a serious glass of nebbiolo because the integration or rather the seamlessness of fruit and structure is so readily apparent. Strong tannic presence yet one that lifts, supports and holds up the whole so that it may walk a fine linear path and that should last for a decade or more. Impressive wine, far too youthful to fully appreciate but the beauty lays ahead. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Fine Nebbiolo swirl of perfumed floral fruit here from the Pora MGA, surely indicative of vintage from which attempting less will ultimately add to more. Hard not to imagine 2020 as sharing some affinity with 2000, misunderstood in youth and then exhibiting greatness 10-plus years into its tenure. This just strikes as one of those wines, chewy enough of texture while perfectly taut and elastic, bending but never breaking. Would really like to see this wine in 10 years time. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Really light and effusive 2020 Nebbiolo, fine floral scents, white roses in a way and a mildly tart push of raspberry. Pretty and elegant wine at first but their is a silkiness to the mouthfeel, albeit once again on the faint and lithe side of Barbaresco. There are tannins however and a notable cask component. It’s a tricky wine, sneaky even and may flesh out to bigger surprises down the road. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Curious if enticing nose of nebbiolo, spiced to the nines with the wood playing an integral part of development. From the Rio Sordo cru in Barbaresco commune and the more you nose this 2020 the more you will receive. Plenty off fleshy berry to plum fruit and more spice, if also spiciness that really directs the way this drinks. A modern wine with more than ample tannins. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG 2020

A fulsome nebbiolo is all respects from Roncaglie in Barbaresco, open and ready to be expressive of a vintage that may be on the lighter side but shows no lack of typically deduced tradition. Would never go so far as to call this a modern nebbiolo but it surely would like to announce its arrival in the olfactory and also on your palate. So much to go on with a nebbiolo of this ilk and structurally speaking the first four to six years will be the best. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Full attack if somewhat closed and unforgiving in Barbaresco indicative of the Ronchi cru. An aromatic front of more breadth than most out of 2020 with well-pressed and macerated fruit, a gentle swarthiness and then more acidity and tannin above all else aboard the weighty palate. The fruit is a party in the front while the tannins are long-haired and wispy in the back. Out of fashion nebbiolo, earthy and rustic despite all that up front fruit. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Neive

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Albesani 2020

Darker than most as far as 2020 nebbiolo go, a concern of place which is Albesani cru in Neive and the decision to press form success. Boozy nose it feels, yet elemental too, like smelling metal filaments, magnesium and iron mainly. Perhaps a ferric soil, redder earth than some other hills and so the wine is an expression of place after all. Quality Barbaresco in any case, balanced and truthful, exacting as needs to be from the location it was born. Kudos for that and with tannins in effect though never overbearing in any shape or form. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Neive Barbaresco DOCG Vigna Santo Stefano Albesani 2020

The second of two Albesani cru nebbioli is nearly an exact copy of the first, dark of fruit though here in black cherry that is really quite an obvious aromatic fruit expression. Smoother and silkier than its counterpart yet with much higher acidity and not quite as suave tannin. More energy and drive this time while less elegance defining the character of the wine. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2020

Wealth of constituent parts emit with haste, gregariousness and also attentive demand from this Basarin. ’Tis a wine that stands and opens up to be heard but also paid immediate attention. Carries some volatility in its voice and while there is fruit but also tension there may be no getting rid of that high and mighty tonality. Plenty of herbal earthiness, strong bones and drying at the finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Vecchie Viti Basarin 2020

Lighter style or perhaps a hands-off, naturally leaning, let it ride approach by a winemaker wishing to seek purity, honesty and cru definability. This from Basarin is beautifully elegant and proper nebbiolo that should never be referred to as “light.” The aromatics are equally handsome while the wine flexes muscles and is yet nimble, agile and sleek. A fine specimen in all regards with a knowable and confident glide. Complex and characterful without needing to attract attention. Lovely wine. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2020

Nebbiolo from Bordini cru is hard and brittle, tannins that is with simple fruit that will never keep up with the demand. Already drying out as we taste and speak about the prospects. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023.

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG 2020 Canova

Intensity of acidity and tannin supersede the fruit in this Canova cru nebbiolo. Earthy and dry though there is some charm. Tart and really compact so give it three to four years. Perhaps it will open like a flower. Perhaps not. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Saria Di Abbruzzo Francesco Barbaresco DOCG Colle Del Gelso Canova 2020

Early earthy, volatile and syrupy from the aromatics all glycerin inflected with soy, wood and baking spice. Hard tannins and a wave off vanilla mark this wine of barrel and more barrel. Drink 2024-2026.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Cotta’ 2020

The cru Cottà delivers a fine and typical Nebbiolo from 2020 with fruity aromas and good vocal acidity. Chewy red fruit in tart raspberry meets somewhat dusty plum make this getable yet not overly excitable. A crunchy mineral example that is notably tannic but five years should solve all issues and see this drink with Barbaresco excellence. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Taverna Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Senteùndes Cotta’ 2020

Quite up front, gone for it nebbiolo, fruit spent before it’s even entered the glass and tannins hard, brittle, not so very inviting. Notable presence of Brettanomyces. Aromas and flavours are all wood.  Tasted January 2023

Roberto Sarotto di Cavallotto Aurora Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2020

So much of everything off the top, fruit, glycerin and tannin coming from all directions. This is a nebiolo predicated on elévage that much is abundantly clear with a wave of vanilla that speaks louder than varietal words or the Gaia Principe location. Needs time and there is some fleshy-pulpy substance to see this Neive commune nebbiolo gain some status. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Negro Giuseppe di Negro Piergiorgio Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2020

Fine lines define this linear and upright Gallina cru nebbiolo of all parts registered to play a significant role through a long life of development. Plenty of fruit substance will hold well while the structure abates and abides as it manages a pact with the aforementioned fruit. Really solid Neive Barbaresco that will gain traction slowly and surely over ten years time. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2020

Some formaggi on the nose of this nebbiolo and a strong tannic presence for a Gallina that’s not showing much love in these beginning stages. Lots of acidity and intensity but really quite rustic and this will not change. Time is the matter and there may just be some beauty behind the brawn Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Cascina Crosa 2020

Fruity, elegant and simple though as always there is a string of strong tannins matched by a tonic and bitter presence. Dusty and earthy nebbiolo, nothing truly specified in terms of cru or location and carrying the overall feel of a traditional wine. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

High-toned, of red fruit and notable tang, somewhat sour gummy and though it looks to be light there is a strong presence of barrel on this nebbiolo. Tannins creep up quite quickly and though they are demanding there is an accord struck in a composite to complimentary village level way. Quite a solid Neive example. Drink 2024-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cordara Ornella Barbaresco DOCG Tufo Blù 2020

Reductive and also acetic, with capers and dill, wood spice and hopeful red berry fruit. Liquid chalky and tannic but the minor faults add up to major distraction. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Taverna Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Duicrü 2020

Major amount of shoe polish and strange varnish notes indicate a problematic wine. Hopefully just this bottle but there is not much recourse in a blind tasting. Drink 2024.  Tasted January 2023

Pietro Rinaldi Barbaresco DOCG San Cristoforo 2020

Acetic and reductive off the top, not egregiously so but these elements are there. More of the latter so giving this nebbiolo a fair agitate swirl to reveal some quality fruit behind the swarthy veil. Dark black cherry and the stone, a definite mineral presence and hard tannins come up the rear for this cru example out of Neive’s San Cristoforo. Tough and gritty wine needing time, a whole lot of precious time. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Bricco San Giuliano 2020

From San Giuliano in Neive and a nebbiolo of darker red fruit though quite effusive to nose. Good aromatic profile from which violets and also blue fruits join the mix. These are quality tannins as well as acidity which is well matched to the overall profile. Will benefit from a year or so in bottle to soften the edges, integrate the oxygenating cask workings and bring all the parts together. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

More than enticing Serraboella aromatics emit and grab attention for a nebbiolo that’s worth knowing. Glycerin all the way through though never drifting into sap, resin or syrup. All three in faint hints are fine and their mentions are in this Neive’s character but yes, subtlety is the name of the game. A fine floral addendum and then proper mouthfeel while tannins are stronger than might have been anticipated. A most commanding wine with stage presence and a great idea of what it desires but also choose to become. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

Some reductive and stemmy behaviour. Lively and lovely Serraboella aromatics fly out of the glass from this nebbiolo to create great anticipation for what else is to come. Seems and feels like a wine of experience, acumen and proper ambition. Just what the doctor orders in healthy, clean living by fruit that’s been raised in all the right ways. Pure varietal distillate that expresses cru, soil, vintage and maker with equal, four part-symbiotic stability and equal footing for all. Top, top Barbaresco for the vintage. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted January 2023

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2020

Quite classic, rustic earthy and yet vintage fruity so in the end we’d expect this to land somewhere in between. Tart red fruit and fine acidity – a lighting strike kind of nebbiolo that should indicate lighter white or grey clay and fine sandy quality of soil. High in mineral as well. Starderi? Really tight and compact wine, far from generous and some might see it as tenebrous. Seems proper and honest from this point of view. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Treiso

Cantina del Nebbiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Stems and a volatility define the first impression for a Barbaresco that draws fruit from at least two communes. Somewhat simple and rounded with the least demanding tannins around. Think of nebbiolo and while it qualifies as Barbaresco the wine should be consumed in its first two years. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Mon Sertù 2020

From a few commune’s fruit and a well rounded nebbiolo at that with stuffing in a most generous sort of way. Some sap and glycerin though not overt and all is manageable for quality consumption. Does well to speak on behalf of Barbaresco with distinction if not a pinpointed sense of a particular block or cru. Which is fine when a wine does everything well. Represents as a great intro to the appellation and the vintage. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Slightly jammy and also acetic notes, some reduction as well in a broadly accumulated, rendered and interpreted nebbiolo for Barbaresco. Tart and full of tang, drying out already and needing some air. Hard tannins make this somewhat problematic. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Molino Barbaresco DOCG Ausario 2020

Ausario as a cru seems to be a place of solar accumulation as noted by the massive fruit substance emanating from this full on nebbiolo. So much up front but also a liquid chalkiness and definite vanilla swirl by wood with the intention to create a structure wine. A bit too much of these things I’m afraid yet time will see good integration and when the wine settles in it will drink well indeed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Casot 2020

Casot delivers fine goods in 2020 from its Treiso cru with a nebbiolo in fine form and especially fashion. The trilogy and trinity of fruit, acid and tannin get on the same page, linear of design, one following the other and then returning back to begin the process over again. Seems to do this on repeat several times before retiring so not only are the parts full of character but their familiarity with one another breeds consistency and length. Fine Casot from a Casot vintage indeed. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Giacone 2020

An upfront, centred and look at me Giacone full of fruit and more fruit. Carries on with Treiso familiarity and quality to deliver a Barbaresco of the times, heady and high-toned. Lots to go on here and tannins quite grippy but there is always some brightness and airiness to this nebbiolo. Crafty if older schooled but that luminosity is quite something. Hard to believe considering the structure of the wine. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2020

Marcarini cru brings some baritone to nebbiolo for 2020 and this example expresses the depths of its varietal fruit. Chewy liquorice is indicative of the tannins involved but the fruit keeps pace. Nothing limpid or softy about this one at all in fact it’s grip is both admired and feared. Chewy and it would be hard not to see the great probability for longevity out of this formidable Nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2020

The second of two Marcarini shares some affinities with the first but they are far from the same wine. This time the combination of swarthiness and swaying texture are at the fore. Definitely not the formidable brood of its counterpart though it does share in the other’s chewy fruit thickened on the palate. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2020

Nervo delivers a lighter style of nebbiolo for Treiso out of a variable 2020 vintage. That is aromatically speaking and yet the palate is very much a matter of glycerol fruit. Thickens with pectin and therefore both sweetens and fleshes as it airs to receive equally sweet acids and then tannin in the end. There is a bit of vanilla and wood derived elements that distract but overall the quality inherent in this Nervo is impressive. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Molino Barbaresco DOCG Teorema 2020

Basic Treiso nebbiolo without cru affiliation brings accessibility and what we call drink-ability without strings attached. Sweet fruit, raspberry and cherry, good quality tannins and brightness of acidity. A Barbaresco to drink soon and in a the most amenable of ways for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG Rocche Dei 7 Fratelli 2020

Somewhat reductive and so a bit unclear as to where this will go though some beauty is noted on this nebbiolo’s immediate horizon. That and notably grippy tannins so as far as Barbaresco is concerned there must be food involved to truly enjoy this wine. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Bosio Family Estates Belcolle Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

Light and effusive Pajorè with plenty of pre-introduced oxygenation to make this an open, airy and knowable nebbiolo that surely does well to represent the vintage. A Treiso Barbaresco of quality raised by acumen and on promises for a long and prosperous life. Fine liquidity and stage presence, confidence and what is necessary for grape and place. Tannins are quite fine as well to equip this wine with what in needed, wanted and expected. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

Consistently Pajorè in that the upront fruit is the sort of purity and existential lightness though this iteration is a bit more pressed and of a depth as compared to some counterparts. Results in moCascina Vano di Rivetti re flesh and substantial palate presence but also an increase in tannic pressure. More ambition here with cask aging and spices running amok distracts from the purity though the wine is still really quite impressive. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Elisa Rombone 2020

The first of two from Rombone cru is somewhat reductive and though there is some acetic presence it’s far from over the top. Tart and intense nebbiolo for sure, cool of mint and evergreen. Savoury wine which speaks to the acetic nature though it feels like a coming together will happen and lower the glare. Time will be this nebbiolo’s friend. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2020

The second of two from Rombone is the lighter and less aggressive with higher and airy tonality which speaks to this Treiso cru’s DNA. While the other is expressed in a slight acetic way this does not and in fact a settling already seems to have occurred. Liking the parochial nature and the way it just seems so comfortable in its own skin. No lack of intensity here and longevity will surely be probable. Drink 2024-2031.  Tasted January 2023

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeriano 2020

Soupy or stewed character while also a bit thin and dilute. Quite a simple nebbiolo. Tasted January 2023

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2020

Fine nebbiolo here from Villagrande with all the fruit and structure up front and no real skeletal backbone to hold up for long. Enjoy this early while so many others take there time to flesh and settle. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Ca’ Del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2020

As for this second of two Vallegrande there is more compaction and tannin mixed with fruit from the very beginning. Also a thickening and a pectin influence to give a strawberry and raspberry confection though one with plenty of savour in the mix. Chalky as well, a lactic feeling and then those tannins of great grip and drying force. This nebbiolo needs years of time to resolve. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rizzi 2018

Indicative of vintage, hot and steamy, a now drying nebbiolo of Rizzi origin so very intense on the nose. Quite mature and evolving with great haste. Sappy and to say this offers effusive enjoyment would be the opposite of what’s really going on. Hard times. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted January 2023

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Martinenga 2018

Fine nebbiolo aromatics from ’18 Riserva with thanks to Martinegra and a wine that was shown some restraint throughout its early voracious appetitive exercise. Strong tannic presence no doubt while the fruit source turns into ever-fleshing substance. Chewy on the palate and really persistent so ultimately this represents a fine Riserva and likely one of the finer examples to come out of 2018. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Socré Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Roncaglie 2018

From the cru of Roncaglie and a nebbiolo as Barbaresco, from Barbaresco with as many issues as it displays beauty because the lactic tang is equal to the fulsome fruit. A thick and swarthy example that’s both traditional (well, actually antediluvian) and naturally avant-garde at the same time. My goodness what a mess and clash of personalities. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Albesani 2018

High fruit concentration and substantial nebbiolo so apposite to the other ’18 Riservas in this flight and clearly happy to be this way. Carries enough weight and tannin to not only impress but allow the wine to drink well over the coming five too eight years time. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin Vigna Gianmate’ 2018

Still a touch reductive and restrained with unyielding tannin in a nebbiolo that will require another two or three years to drink as it was surely intended to do. Plenty of flesh hangs on these bones so expect Basarin to win in the end. Serious wine, surely a matter of heat by vintage but there will be comfort before too long. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG San Cristoforo Campo Quadro 2018

Lightest, most transparent and glaringly beautiful of the Barbaresco Riserva with a maturing quality at this stage. Sweetly lactic note, fruit of the brighest reds while settling in because tannins are drying yet of nary a moment that might be considered austere or abrasive. Seriously well made, vintage indicative and in the end, drink up. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2019

The western cru close to Neive village, exposition to the west, from the lower section at 350m. Planted 15 years ago with the intention to make classic “Villages” Barbaresco but the fruit from 2016 changed the family’s perspective. That vintage was the first cru label and here from the fourth consecutive the refinement time is 24 months in grandi botti, part Slovenian and part Austrian oak. Tannic to be sure yet not quite what you’d call austere. Greatly structured wine and still far from readiness. “That’s the young baby we’re talking about,” says Riccardo. “It’s the cru that surprises me.” Great aromatic presence and fine chalky liquidity running through. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG 2019 Canova

“Traditional” vinification for this Neive nebbiolo and put to Grandi Botti (300L size) for two years. Very traditional Barbaresco, quietly aromatic of pretty perfume and in 2019 a lovely, elegant wine. Proof that Vano’s needs an extra year to settle its harder parts and while ’19 remains or persists as tannic they are strong and elastic ones that will continue to effect a positive stance on this Canova. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2019

Warmer of Faset’s two parcels on its western flank, southeast exposure at the hill’s base. Top notch red fruit with a unique game swarthiness and so much personality swelling into complexity. Nothing shy or demure here and clearly a vintage that sweats out the eccentricities of Duesoli. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cerrino Barbaresco DOCG 2019

Cerrino is found in Trezzo Tinella close to Treiso which is the commune for this nebbiolo’s fruit. More specifically Meruzzano though the vru won’t show up on the label until the 2021 vintage. From 450m of elevation for a Barbaresdco of somewhat stewed black cherry and stone, balsamic edginess, quality acid and tannin. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2019

A Barbaresco of soft extraction at 24-26 degrees celsius, some cappello sommerso submerged cap workings, “when we feel we can,” says Luca Pasquero Elia. Aways scarico, meaning the unwanted elements are always left behind to result in a transparent nebbiolo without intensity of colour. “We want to keep the integrity of the skins, as much as possible,” to restrict oxygenation and racking is done only when necessary. Goes to bottle “after the second phase of closure.” Paitin in Barbaresco is a matter of objective over style. Serraboella is most always wanting to be expressive but this 2019 actually is, at least aromatically, of bright red fruit but be reminded how converse this is against the quality of tension in the tannins. Not a nebbiolo of glycerin despite the cappello sommerso‘s effects, because of the combination of two things. Reasonable alcohol and wild yeast strains that don’t induce such texture. The elasticity and balance in this ’19 Serraboella are just exemplary and the elegant notes play early, which is kind of unprecedented. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Cerrino Barbaresco DOCG 2018

From Treiso and what will eventually become a cru (Merazzano) labeled Barbaresco. For now it is a super correct and fine example for nebbiolo and the vintage, 25 day fermentation to coax out a gentility. The season was cooler than 2019 and the resulting wine more balanced, elegant and lovely in its held persistence. Right in the vintage window as we speak. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Vano Di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Pilone Nei Rivetti 2016

From heavy clay soil abutting the hill of Serraboella. Big shouldered nebbiolo, broad and muscular, ancient warrior of Barbaresco. Still expressly tannic after all this time, having spent three years in Botti and another in bottle. Traditional though quite fine and needing two more years to integrate. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rabajà 2015

Rabajà faces southwest and this fruit comes right from the heart, only bottled as Riserva. Vines in and around 40 years of age and three years spent in Grandi Botti. Aromatically you intuit glycerin and as a Barbaresco there is clearly more acumen and experience from plants that first gave this wine life out of the 2011 vintage. Tannins are even more compact than Seraboella, trying to expand but they just keep weighing down and won’t fully relent. Layering of red fruit and they are beautiful layers but each one carries tannin of ilk upon ilk. This is Barbaresco of sapidity as a quotient of acids and pH working in cohorts. The palate attack is quite fantastical. Give this another year. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2013

Plenty of breezes blow through this vineyard that is easier to farm with far less disease pressure than many. Also one of the first to ripen in the whole of Barbaresco. Allows for more maneuverability to create verticality and the winemaking can encourage some of this style – though form and objective are always the most important matters. The 2013 still shows as a linear nebbiolo with tension unabated while the once austere elements are finally subsiding. Yet it is still a baby, a 14 percent Barbaresco built for longe range aging from fruit drawn off of the steepest part on the long ridge of the Serraboella hill. Sandy soils on the southeastern slope with surrounding woods all conspire to create this slow-evolving, cru-designate wine with ample fruit, structure and trenchant abilities. A marker for Neive. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2012

Basarin is home to much older vines, upwards of 65 years-old and is one of the steepest vineyards in Barbaresco. A snake of a vineyard and very challenging to work. South exposure, warm for sure and a soil composition higher in chalk than clay but not too dissimilar to Rabajà. Herbaceous notes come from Basarin and “when I was young, every time I went to the tank I had this feeling,” tells Riccardo Bera. The first vintage out of which the tannins are nearly resolved and yet the fruit persists in near whole and perfect freshness. A nebbiolo in wonderful condition and while the vintage was hot there might have been a different result. This is almost, not quite but nearly ready, as far as optimum or perfect windows are concerned. Liquorice here, a touch of tar and well, “most of this job for us is to start with the best grapes you can. The quality is in the vineyard. A good winemaker can keep the 10. A five you cannot fix.” Ten it is. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Good to go!

godello

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

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WineAlign

Always tasting Italian wines, doin’ allright

Toscana

Back in the summer of 1987 I attended the Umbria Jazz Festival in Perugia. This was considered “the benchmark year for Umbria Jazz in terms of the Festival’s appeal, its quality, its ability to combine popularity with exclusivity, with mass concerts in the football stadium and the fantastic evenings inside St. Francis’ church.” The memories of that July 16th to 18th weekend are strong, persistently vivid and what happened there was clearly transformational in my life. Sting had played the weekend previous and though my crew could not stay long enough to see Miles Davis on Sunday the 18th still there were grand moments indelibly stamped upon our lives. Walking the Piazza IV Novembre up to Nicola and Giovanni Pisano’s Fontana Maggiore, drinking in the cafés, Sly and Robbie sitting at the next table. But the highlight happened at the Stadio Renato Curi where Dexter Gordon blew his horn and our minds. The saxophonist was fresh off of a revivalist’s record and hit movie. He was Doin’ Allright, as were we.

 

Jazz and wine. Two inextricably linked subjects and emotions in the summer of 1987. Now 35 years later I’m listening to Gordon’s seminal record and tasting wine. Time spent Far Niente. Tasting Italian wines from a wide ranging group of producers while paraphrasing from thoughts about the music of the OG big man, with no disrespect intended to Clarence Clemons. Dexter’s life and this group of wines are representative of that kind of size. Their rhythm section plays for the grape, seeming to sense what it wants, following the varietal lead and never falling out of balance. Full toned manner of wines, loping in medium tempo, solos unhurried, logical, warming and full of Italian melodies.

Umbria, July 1987

There are white wines that play beautifully and pensively while others pick up the mood by spinning out solos, staying texturally relaxed and thoughtful, ending with some perfumed chords. There are short bits and interludes but ultimately the way these wines handle their ballads is an indication of their length and depth. They know what it’s all about. The reds are at times wines of catchy and contrasting themes but they truly know how to build a solo. In today’s warming climate they climb up in temperature, chorus after chorus, until finally they satisfy at their apex. There are moments when the reds seem to be skipping and marching, alternating between funky riffs, leaping rhythmic figures and brightly lit burning flames of fruit and acidities. They build more slowly to climax while expanding in tones and for longer periods of time. There are chordal explorations in reds, blacks and of course blues. What connects them all is underlying substance in waves and weaves throughout each ensemble. Tasted consecutively or together theses wines all prove to be mutually significant. Thank you to Ira Gitler for the inspirational notes, to Stefania Tacconi and the prodcuers for sharing their wines.

Inama Vin Soave Classico DOC 2020, Veneto

Anything but entry-level from the grape garganega once known as Graecanicum grown in the basaltic lava, volcanic tuffs and orizzonti rossi. About as correct and defining as it gets for Soave, yellow and green floral, fruit recall more of the same and then the volcanic rock alterations that give the mineral-salty feel. While there might be a wish for a little bit more complexity and grape spirit there is some gelid to viscous texture in this 2020. In any case Inama’s is well made, educational and right on the varietal money. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted March 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Favorita DOC 2020, Piedmont

As for white wines from Italy’s northern climes there are those that speak to many and then there is the “favorita” of others, the varietal Piedmontese white for the dreamers and the romantics. This from Abrigo out of Diano d’Alba avoids the bitters, pith and boozy thiol moments to instead capture all the white flowers and more. The scents are fruity over metallic and clean instead of waxy. There is precision and most importantly a toothsome grace over the palate that brings you back for more and more. A picnic in the hills, a chilled glass after the day’s movement and the scent of dusk. That is favorita when it’s right. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted March 2022

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Deaetna 2019, Sicily

Terra Costantino’s is from Contrada Blandano in the Comune Viagrande, on soils sabbie di matrice vulcanica, a blend of carricante and catarratto, three to one, at 500m, part bush vine and part spurred cordon. Were the flinty smoulder the only beautiful thing going for this Etna Bianco it might almost be enough but the gelid and sweetly ripened fruit takes every moment to a higher caste and level. The thought of these wines being honeyed is not all that common and yet he we are, aromatically speaking, lemon meringue and curd, angel food cake, with the barrel impart knowable in vanilla and light caramel terms. A metallic feel as well, pure platinum gold, texture and some age already put behind. Not so typical but curious and highly enjoyable nonetheless. A drink now chardonnay or chenin blanc alternative that will begin to oxidize in a couple of years time. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted May 2022

Poggio Argentiera Morellino Di Scansano DOCG Bellamarsilia 2020, Tuscany

High-toned in 2020 with a marked level of volatile acidity and good if not maximum ripeness from sangiovese grown either in a (relatively) cooler year near the (Maremma) Tuscan coast. It would seem the winemaker is also looking for restraint and maintaining positive acidity because at this low level (13.5 per cent) of alcohol the resinous and stemmy nature of sangiovese is duly noted, if also accentuated. Texture is a bit chalky, almost grainy and the tannins throw a touch of green. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted May 2022

Usiglian Del Vescovo Il Barbiglione 2015, Terre Di Pisa DOC, Tuscany

From estate grapes in the Pisa DOC and from a winery also producing wines both coastal and in Chianti appellations. Centred around syrah with small percentages of cabernet grown in greyish, dry, shallow, sandy soil with some clay, lime and fossils. A bright, currants and other red fruit syrah with notable tang and wood resins. A touch pectin sappy while satisfying and complete. Held back to tame its wild side and drink upon purchase. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted June 2022

La Regola 2018, Toscana Rosso IGT

A place of Etruscan origin just five kms from the Tyrrhenian Sea at Riparbella in the Cecina Valley. The vineyard lays within the Montescudaio DOC at 150-200m with soils described as Mediterranean with an abundance of stones. La Regola’s (the rule) is varietal cabernet franc, abundant, heady and as compared to the blended reds, so unfettered and uncluttered. The varietal purity is expressly coastal, of saltiness, algae, seaweed, tar and fruit so much more than a plenty. This is truly a stylistic and a place that makes wines just like this here screaming with clarity and truth. There seems to be little doubt that cabernet franc fits, unlike sangiovese, syrah or cabernet sauvignon. Franc is the signature red and 2018 announces its success. The structure, unimpeded drive and length confirm the pronouncement. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted June 2022

Boscarelli Vino Nobile De Montepulciano DOCG 2019, Tuscany

Boscarelli is a name to conjure with, a producer from Montepulciano as direct and exciting as a communicator of sangiovese emotion as any, consistently declarative in attack. Case in point this 2019 though with the added advantage of a most generous and unselfish vintage. Fruit comes from estate vineyards in the parish or pieve of Cervognano, one of 12 newly minted UGAs, a.k.a. unità geografiche aggiuntive. These additional mentions for the overall appellation give us the consumer a more pinpointed sense of place and in Boscarelli’s world the vines were planted in the late 1990s. Depth burrows in an endless seeking of mineral wealth while highlights rise unencumbered, defying gravity and setting this local sangiovese free. When sangiovese does both it’s a bit of a revelation and in Montepulciano the truth is not always easy to come by. The wines can make you work for your pleasure and this 2019 gifts it freely. Drink now and for the next 10 years. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted May 2022

Il Bocale Montefalco Rosso DOC 2018, Umbria

The Umbrian work of i famiglia Valentini based around sangiovese accented by the local sagrantino, then merlot and colorino. Unequivocally balanced if not quite the increasingly generous vintage that will follow in 2019. The succulence and juiciness of the Montefalco Rosso appellation is captured with precise and succinct advantage and done so without any due stress or adversity. The fruit spreads with ripples into fine acidity and supple tannins like a large rock dropped into a pool of water. The rock disappears but the fluidity and gentle set of wakes linger on, ever so slowly decreasing their size and intensity. Bocale’s ’18 is an effortless Rosso, aromatic, flavourful and elastic. This is just what a top producer knows how to do. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Il Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2016, Umbria

From the Valentini family dating back to 2002 and a varietal sagrantino of the highest selection. “Bocale is the dialect word that indicates the two litre mug of wine or oil, but, above all, the name with which this family from Montefalco has always been identified.” From the most democratic of Montefalco vintages, long, studious and just, indeed a wine giusto e completo, time having settled the once formidable tannin and connecting the early unconnected parts. A wholly unique profile, indicative of tar, dark chocolate and espresso yet subtly so, with an allowance of many complexities to join the parade. Quite special in so many regards. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted April 2022

Il Palio, Siena, July 1987

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Tuscany

Grande Gaiole compass, cinch and girth in naturally swarthy sangiovese from Riecine in 2019, crunchy and tart. Inching up towards the volatile but such is the word in pace for the vintage. The fruit can handle the stark reality and veritable truth, equipped with grip and ready for the inevitable circumstance. Maybe wait a year for further resolution. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted February 2022

Villa Di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2017, Tuscany

Consistently presents with an evolved aromatic tendency as it breathes maturity into every phrase it plays. The jazzy mix of violet, spice cupboard and freshly baked earthenware speaks in open and knowable truth for a wine so upwardly representative of a DOCG with roots dating back to 1716. That is when Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany granted exclusive status to Carmignano at the same time he did so for the Classico territory of Chianti. Was not the easiest vintage to deal with and yet this is one of the Tuscan stars what with the piquant yet elastic spice condition rolling off of the palate with sage, fresh tobacco, finnocchi and tartufo. Deals with 14.5 per cent alcohol without adversity while modelling symbiosis between sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. Hard to do much better with the aridity and warmth, breathe life and plan for five-plus more years of pleasure. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted June 2022

Azienda Agricola Reassi Sparviere 2018, Colli Euganei Cabernet DOC, Veneto

Reassi’s two-thirds cabernet sauvignon and one-third cabernet franc comes from the Padova area in the Veneto, famously home to some of Giotto’s most profound and important 13th/14th century frescoes housed in the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The estate’s 1997 planted wines are located in the zone of Carbonara di Rovolon, harvested near the end of September and only 3,500 bottles are produced. This is a cheeky cabernet at the lead for the Colli Euganei DOC, full of sweet tar and tobacco, petrol in cars, wood resins, fruit from pods that grown on trees and really quite bright in disposition. How can you not adore the vitality and low alcohol proposition (12.5 per cent) plus this genteel pectin and glycerol feel. “Oh, it’s magic, Uh oh, it’s magic. Just a little magic, you know it’s true.” Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted May 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barbera d’Alba DOC Marminela 2019, Piedmont

At the DOC Barbera level it would be hard to find another example so open, forthright, up front, bright, getable and delicious than this Marminela by Abrigo. Classic interpretation indeed yet without rustic strings tethering it to the past, instead expressive of a freedom to explore. Here barbera throws aside traditions in a spirit of experimentation. This is a blend of grapes from two vineyards in the municipalities of Grinzane Cavour and Diano d’Alba and aging takes place for nine months in concrete vats. Freshness is dutifully captured, preserved and the barbera perseveres. Will drink this way for two, maybe even three full years ahead. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted June 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barbera D’alba Superiore DOC Rocche Dei Frisu 2018, Piedmont

Rocche dei Frisu is Abrigo’s top end, purest expression of barbera, from vineyards in Diano d’Alba and also nearby. The sites range in elevation between 230-360m, on clay-based soils mixed with sand and limestone, depending on the block. The name could mean “cones of frieze” in the literal sense but probably a name given to a hill of natural architecture that when looked at from afar there would be some sort of illusory effect. As in art, whereby a trompe l’oeuil or trick of the eye is created by a broad horizontal band of sculpted or painted decoration. In any case the barbera in this bottle does the exact opposite with its openly blatant and striking set of ripe fruit, varietal acidity and full throttle potency. Not shy to be sure, nor heavy neither but there is power contained within this bottle. Even after nearly four years the Frisu does not relent and as a member of the Alba Superiore fraternity the representation is bang on. Plenty of stuffing will see this through to the end of this decade. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted May 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2019, Piedmont

Marked valuation in animal musk through the masculine scent of Abrigo’s nebbiolo from Diano d’Alba, a parochial example equally rich in classic DOC notes. Only the nebbiolo from Alba’s territory smells and tastes like this, accentuated by wood with spice infiltration inside and out. The animal magnetism is captivating, as much as the barrel accents are condiments to the fruit and earth that fill up this nebbiolo. Quite tight for 2019, needing some time, acids equally taut and being open three days helped immensely. Be patient with this Alba, it will reward those who are. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted June 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Ravera 2017, Piedmont

Diano d’Alba producer of a Barolo in the municipality/cru/MGA of Novello. Meets the specs of Tortonian soil, laminated Sant’Agata fossil marl, in other words calcareous clay, deeply entrenched, at 400m, vine age ranging 20 to 35 years. Fifty per cent is treated to long skin maceration i.e. cappello sommerso and despite the aridity and heat of 2017 there is freshness captured in Abrigo’s Ravera. Luminous and immediately spicy, a piquancy of pure nebbiolo spiked by time, vintage and lastly barrel. Amazingly persistent Barolo, full, substantial and in charge. Must give this three more years to integrate and allow us to grow as tasters, eventually to be ready and willing to enjoy this wine. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted June 2022

Tenuta Di Pietrafusa Villa Matilde Avallone Fusonero 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania

Varietal aglianico from the Taurasi DOCG and a producer that also fashions top quality wines at IGT Campania prices coming in at under $20 CDN. This top drop comes from the production zone of Montemarano e Paternopoli off of vines planted in 1968 and 1985. The first commercial vintage was 2004 and so here in the 12th iteration is a most generous vintage from which the best of all worlds is accessed. The world of aglianico is reached earlier than that which hesitantly emerges out of some hard, at times sufferable and surely tannic vintages. Here the fruit is nearly up front, artistically open and and even playing with musical swagger. There is room for all the aglianico because they provide the opportunity to enjoy the standards, originals and forward thinking examples. Fusonero is a delightful combination of all three and for that we are grateful. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted June 2022

Good to go!

godello

Tuscany

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WineAlign

Yearning for the Langhe

Godello in Cherasco

My kingdom for an Albese plate of Tajarin at Osteria dei Sognatori or a platter of Plin at Ristorante La Libera. What a wine writer would not do for a Langhe reprise, a Piedmontese redux, a tasting of any Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Dogliani, Alba or Langhe Barbera and Nebbiolo, Langhe Roero Arneis, Na’Scetta e Favorita. Were things normal and they most certainly are not, but were life being lived now as it was one year ago we would be convening in Alba in two weeks time. What I would not give to break bread with a winemaker, colleague or friend in Piemonte.

Related – Barolo DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2016, Riserva 2014, 2006 and Riserva 2004

Mark these words. The two specialized and specific DOCs of Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo will gain prominence and become a two-headed beast in 2021. The world will gather to exult, raise up and drink these fine and vastly underrated examples of classified nebbiolo. Of this I became truly privy to one year ago but also throughout 2020 as more and more nebbiolo came to be assessed across my desk. Yes it was back in January 2020 when I travelled to Alba in Piemonte for Nebbiolo Prima 2020 and Grandi Langhe. I tasted more than 600 nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, arneis, freisa, chardonnay, pelaverga and even riesling during the eight day work staycation. Grande.

Grandi Langhe 2020

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe Trade Fair are a back-to-back cumulative by the work of many, not the least of which are organizations such as Consorzio Albeisa, a.k.a Unione Produttori Vini Albesi, Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Consorzio Tutela del Roero and Regione Piemonte. During that trip I tasted and reviewed 230 Barolo: DOCG 2016 (197), Riserva DOCG 2014 (6), DOCG 2006 (20) and Riserva DOCG 2004 (7). For Barbaresco the number was 92: DOCG 2017 (59), DOCG 2015 (15), DOCG 2015, 2007, 2009 and 2005 (18). As for Roero DOCG, 38 notes: DOCG 2017 and 2016 (33) and DOCG 2006 and 2007 (5).

Related – Roero DOCG Previews and Retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2016, 2007 and Riserva 2006

Here’s to hoping for a return at any point in 2021, or in 2022 for the 25th Nebbiolo Prima followed by Grandi Langhe, if that’s how it will be. In the meantime here are 44 further reviews of wines tasted in and around Alba back in January, 2020. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Barbera d’Alba DOCG, Verduno Pelaverga DOC, Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC, Langhe Favorita DOC, Roero Arneis DOC, Langhe Rosato DOC, Vino Rosso and Birbét. Care Langhe, spero di tornare presto.

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC

Diego Morra Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2016

F.rom northern facing vineyards that receive no direct sun so essentially a cool Langhe climate. Nebbiolo that sees a short maceration and French wood. Not your everyday or expected nebbiolo in a really light and transparent style. Extremely fresh and refreshing, taut, high-toned and yet this creamy texture. Richer than half-and-half, perhaps like 20 per cent fat though lactose free and not enough to be whipped. So different. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Nebbiolo d’Alba Doc Bric Merli 2017

From the vineyard directly in front of Bric Volta. A lighter, but far from unstructured nebbiolo with a new and certain grace and still unmistakeable Canale DNA. Here you can mark another reference point, not to mention the genetic and torch passing material provided by 650 years of history, information and accumulation in experience. The demeanour is confident and gracious. Who would not want a glass every night? Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC Parigi 2017

Comes from the same type of marly soil as the barbera, here out of vineyards located in the villages of Alba and Diano d’Alba. The vines are around 20 years of age and the wine sees one year in (30 per cent new) American 40L and French 30L barrels. The idea is to draw out soft and elegant tannins, especially by the American oak. That much is true in a nebbiolo heading towards that direction though not quite yet there. A return in two to three years should do the trick. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Nebbiolo Langhe DOC

Elvio Cogno Nebbiolo Langhe DOC Montegrilli’ 2018

A name taken from Valter Fissore’s grandfather’s vineyard in the Roero, not Barolo and yes this is a nebbiolo and a wine to drink. Immediately gratifying in so many ways. From vineyards on the other side of Novello, southwest exposure and very sandy soil with just a minor amount of sandstone. Fragolina di bosco and white raspberry, a juicy wine that can quench your thirst. Just a minor grip and chalk of tannin. Hardly causes any confusion and allows you to sip and sip and sip. Grill some fish and Montegrilli’s your friend. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2018 ($27.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

From two vineyards, one in La Morra (estate) and one in Roero. Less than a year in old, large barrels and a purposeful one, for early and often drinking enjoyment. Bright fruit, easy, forward and will surely solicit many a happy palate for dual-drawn, doubling down pleasure. Floral, well made and proper. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Bollito Misto, Sinio

Azienda Agricola Taverna Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018

Declassified nebbiolo from Barbaresco with mildly candied fruit, slightly oxidative, but charming. Only been in bottle maximum one month. Drink 2020.  Tasted February 2020

Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018 (454017, $32.95, Le Maitre de Chai)

Youngest vines in the Basarin Vineyard at 18 years old grown in sand and clay at the foot of Neive. The Langhe nebbiolo sees 20-30 days on skins (as opposed to 30-40 for the Barbaresco), ferments naturally and at low temperatures. Glaring as a vintage with a big grin on its face, unprecedented concentration, healthy extraction and completed by elevated dry extract. Incredible intensity for the appellation, something already noted in 2015 but bears repeating, like a mantra, for kicks, compliments, giggles and kudos. The Piedmontese maceration brings so much texture and chromatic accents; tangerine, vermillion, sorrel and umber. Longer maceration, less wood (four months) and no love lost for aging, not to mention waxing rhapsodically on. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Osteria dei Sognotori, Alba

Barolo DOCG

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2015

Pichmej is a combination of two vineyards, Bussia and Santa Maria, what Valentina and sister’s Serena and Denise Marrone call “our grandfather’s wine.” Who happened to be Carlo. A nebbiolo that you really can drink now but then again that’s the thing about young Marrone Barolo. They and this ’15 Pichmej display a sense of the ethereal in their youth. Nature in conjunction with nurture, a delicate touch and phenolic regulation to near perfection. If you would like to access the portal into the reality of how nebbiolo needs to be made in modern times then begin right here and know what’s what in 2020. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2015

Compared to Pichmej this nebbiolo from Bussia is a step up in concentration and also structure, the latter being in kinship with Bussia 2016. That said there is absolutely zero compromise to the stylistic execution that makes for a Marrone Barolo. Simulates the phenolic beauty of Pichmej and of ’16 but the fullest, deepest and most complete journey happens here. Enologist Donato Lanati has coaxed the fruit but not the bitters while the sisters Marrone find excellence in completing Bussia and all the rest. Lightness of being is also accrued while the wine clocks in at a hidden 15 per cent alcohol. Magic happens and success follows. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Baudana 2015

From Serralunga d’Alba and the apposite Barolo cru, forceful, grippy, demanding, always mired in posit tension tug. That alone explains no differing opinion but pay attention to the kind of “tensione” Adelaide’s creates. The numbered beats are off, out of time, or at least not understood in fours, yet orchestrated and aligned as they should be. As in five or taking the fifth, with a spoonful of notes, lines, vocalizations and structural arrangements feeling like they are unanswered. A vintage that men are dumbfounded by but girls can tell. Baudana is a hyper real get together of brushy aromas, dedicated flavours and highly functional architecture. This one stretches and creates an elastic musculature, flexible and persistent. Wouldn’t mess with Baudana. Drink 2020-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Simone Ortale and Giuliana Drocco, Cascina Adelaide

Cascina Adelaide Barolo Riserva DOCG “Per Elen” 2014

A blend of two cru and says Simone Ortale “we choose the best to make Riserva. It’s our jewel.” The same grandi botti (as per Preda and Cannubi) but here 62 months of aging time. The most mouthfeel, filling and the silkiest chalky liquidity, tannins and layering of multifarious, mille-feuille multiplicity. A nebbiolo for the decades. Drink 2022-2035.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo DOCG Gomba 2015

A smooth, elastic, stretched and elongated nebbiolo from the Commune of Barolo and Boschetti’s estate fruit. Drawn off of the higher reaches and also some that is sold to Marchesi di Barolo. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2015

Sernìe is the cru inside the cru, a selection within the selection and a word in Piedmontese dialect that essentially means just that. Surely the richer, more concentrated, fully stretched, entirely elastic and truly elongated nebbiolo. Has the violets, purple fruit, foie gras and decadence. Drink 2021-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2012

This older version of the cru within the cru comes from a very select parcel and as an estate flagship nebbiolo is only produced in select vintages. The formidable 2012 season made a request that winemakers (in this case Maurizio Delpero) did not try to extract too much fruit which would also mean an excess of tannin. Yet Boschetti’s Sernìe was subjected to a Piedmontese 40-day maceration (a cappello sommerso), a classic technique that eight years later establishes an exaggeration of nebbiolo riches. Was also a generous vintage that saw to healthy fruit and quantity. Serious Barolo right here. Drink 2020-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Crudo – La Libera, Alba

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG 2015

From the river between La Morra and Verduno, two plots with separate soils and expositions to combine for a double cru cause and effect. Balanced and dynamic, a nose of power meeting finesse. No winding or cinching but more a zig-zagging, ying versus yang, AC-DC, nebbiolo going both ways. Lovely spice. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barolo DCOG Monvigliero 2015

From four hectares in the Verduno cru and the three Ms, Mosca, La Morra and Monvigliero. The V in the middle is for Verduno. The 2015 nebbiolo is a really pretty one, floral and understated but of obvious power. Near formidable in its restraint with bursting a real possibility at any near moment. Not quite there yet but it’s coming, it’s real, leaving meaning. “In a room made of stone your future was made.” Wait for it. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Bricco Pernice 2015

Ages three years in wood, one year further in barrel. One hundred per cent Lampia clone. A little bit more classic in terms of what is Barolo. The partridge is a special hill and a place that gives away these highly specialized nebbioli and 2015 is on the border between a red and a black vintage. More black then red. A vintage that will be so right and so joyous in middle age and ideal for salty (aged) cheese and meat. Splendido nebbiolo. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

With Valter Fissore

Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera DOCG Vigna Elena 2014

Rosa clone of Ravera, not quite yet released (will be in three months), dedicated to daughter Elena. A registered menzione geografica named many years ago so the size on the label is set above the DOCG. More of a Bourgogne style. Rose petals and potpourri. Red fruit and red citrus so obviously a red year. Cured like salumi, bresaola maybe or at least eat some alongside. A touch vegetal and that is ’14, sun-dried vegetable and yes, like pinot noir. The first vintage was 1997. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

The quality of the wines gives everyone at Mauro Sebaste every reason to smile

Mauro Sebaste Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2015

Less weight and density in 2015, both in Serralunga fruit and also tannin. Much interest here in how it intimates the richesse of ’16 but not the youthful aggression of the tannin. More freshness, linearity and understanding. No hard edges, really easy to like and enjoy and enough grip to see it develop nicely over the next seven plus years. Might even last longer than imagined. Drink 2020-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barolo Riserva DOCG Ghè 2014

Ghè is the Riserva of Cerretta fruit but only the smallest berries are chosen. A mega clonal version per se, a Cerretta of Ceretta. Celebrates and argues the merits of a challenging vintage, spends 36 months in tonneaux and like the Cerretta there is pure and substantial fruit. Acidity and tannin too, more than you might imagine considering the wood. Tension and grace live side by side and this is just beginning to act like it will for its essential and optimum 10 year window. Drink 2020-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba DOCG 2016

A true commune Barolo drawn off of a scattering of vineyards, a Serralunga liqueur warming, comforting and reliable, plus a vintage tannin more stringent and yet to crack. Spent two years in grandi botti plus six further months in bottle. Of roses and tar, youthfulness and tension aboard a nicely balanced and upright frame. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Riserva DOCG San Bernardo 2013

The “oriental plot,” from the other side of the Ornato cru and a nebbiolo to speak of extended elévage just as it should. Now into a balsamico cadence and a tartufo lilt. A matter of funghi, acciuga and back to that truffled sensibility. So much umami, the anchovy sitting like a salty and briny slice of maritime butter on toasted crostini with shavings both pencil and earthen nuggets in origin. Oh how the feeling of the block and the greater Piedmontese emanates from one glass of Barolo that only San Bernardo seems capable of gifting. The secondary nature of this nebbiolo is astonishing, if like Christmas come early but why not celebrate now? Should keep developing, morphing, giving again and again. Drink 2020-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2004 (713479, Halpern Enterprises)

Has quite obviously rounded into form, now beautifully rich and preserved. Poured from magnum yet showing all of its age, fruit sweetly hanging in the balance and as a whole an elegant nebbiolo worthy of the reference. Drink 2020-2024.  Last tasted January 2020

Of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C.  Tasted April 2012

Cherasco

Barbaresco DOCG

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Comes from one vineyard, the top part of the hill, Gaia Principe it’s called, one of four that make Barbaresco in the MGA. Quick maceration, only seven days, not very Piedmontese and because the house tradition is to make wines to drink and drink now. A very fresh nebbiolo, sweetly perfumed, clear, pure and precise. Drink this most days. No good reason not to. Drink 2020-2025.  Last tasted February 2020

Very ripe and organized, developed and heading forward with great haste. Acids are brighter than some so there is light streaking through the Neive vintage darkness. Another example that speaks to the great variability in 2017. Drink 2020-2024.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Barbera d’Alba DOCG

Cascina Adelaide Vigna Preda Barbera d’Alba 2016

Same vineyard as the nebbiolo for the Preda Barolo but here the barbera fruit is notable deeper and darker. Spends up to 18 months in big barrel and high acidity for Alba with just the right and deft touch of necessary volatile acidity. Rich, luxurious and lovely. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barbera D’alba Superiore Docg Amabilin 2016

Named after the creator himself Amabile Drocco who as a child was called Amabilin. The name chosen for the wine pays homage to the family’s origins. The yields are ridiculously low (half a kilo per vine) from 3,000 kg per hectare that represents half of the consorzio’s disciplanare rule. So concentrated and a true gem in the Adelaide portfolio, in fact this is truly one of the tops in all of what is labeled Superiore. Includes eight to ten per cent Barolo fruit but not that which might end up as DOC Nebbiolo. High acidity again (as with the Preda) and ultra special tannins. Only 2000-2300 bottles are produced. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barbera d’Alba DOCG 2016

Roddi is the source and direct sun exposure provided for a terroir-varietal relationship that is necessary when you consider acidity rates, ripeness measurements and structural assets. Here barbera gets into beneficial bitters, speaks with assuring alacrity and extolls the virtue of a mainly steely exterior. Really spirited, fresh and alive. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Bricco Dei Merli 2017

Single vineyard, aged for one year in wood. The hilltop of the blackbird and a wine nosing succinctly of black cherry. No way this is simply the wine of the osteria or the honky tonk bar. The maturation here is set so high on both fronts, first sugar and then phenolic. Acidity is supportive and there is no burn. There is no jam. What shows is body strength, spirit and a soft finish. Comes from elevation where the wind blows and you can feel the cool breeze running in the veins, like cool water. Picked late September and we are thankful for that. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

The view from Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Pre Phylloxera 2018

Pre-Phylloxera because of these barbera vines’ ability to survive with thanks to sandy soil and 500m of elevation. A red soil that was not inhabitable to the louse. The vineyard is rented from Marcarini and Valter likes to farm it to to keep the history of his family’s work alive. Lower acidity, higher concentration and an affinity with northern Rhône syrah. Cool, smooth, silky, crystal clear and the pinnacle of barbera beauty. Incredible texture. Only 2,000 bottles made. Drink 2021-2029.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera d’Alba DOC Giardono 2018

From a single vineyard, eight yearsold and aged in concrete, for a reductive environment and more important a low, natural and slow ferment. A rich deep cherry barbera to be fair, sure and completely honest with a modernity of acidity that belies the reasons why barbera fell out of favour and became hard to sell. This will do the yeoman work to continue the resurrection. A spice market from a time gone by connects Giardino to a loyal and traditional wine. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera D’alba DOC Mezzavilla 2015

From 75 year-old vines in the Mezzavilla Vineyard, located between the villages of Cisterna (towards Asti) and Canale. Just a few percentage points of oak because the fruit demands it and concrete will keep freshness but doesn’t quite do enough for this fruit. Such a soothing acidity and a presence that speaks to the sand and the clay of the land from whence it came. Taste this fruit and you will understand. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barbera d’Alba Doc “Legattere®”‎ 2017 ($24.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

A selection of barbera vineyards of soils calcareous/clayey, maceration of six days, fermented in steel, aged in French oak. Just a classic, pure red fruit, high acid and smooth texture/tannins. Round flavours, big yet somehow understated. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Centobricchi 2016

On the hill just above Alba on the way to Serralunga, of low yields that produce just about one bunch per vine. Spends one year in new French oak to gift spice, savour, silk and palate fineness. High acidity, at times too high but necessary to foil the hedonism. A piqued and plentiful barbera that in the end comes down to farming. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Bricco delle Olive 2017

Big barbera, 15 months in (50 per cent new) tonneaux with violets and spice smothering all else. Despite the enormity of it all this is barbera in a balanced varietal world and Bricco delle Viole is clearly a Superiore terroir from which to approach with great ambition. All assets are encouraged and flaunted  within the grand scale of this particular Alba spectrum. Will improve with some further wood integration. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbera d’Alba DOC 2018

The red fruit juiciest and most succulent Barbera d’Alba with great acids. Make you wish more varietal wines like this would align, draft and glide alongside. Fresh and just lovely. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted February 2020

Verduno Pelaverga DOC

Diego Morra Pelaverga DOC 2018

Diego Morra’s pelaverga ’18 is clear, concise and pure, lying with a varietal heart at its most effusive. Prim as is imaginable while a big expression for a light and silken grape. From a “normal,” manageable and consistent vintage. A wine executed with molecular gastronomy to an end forged by a grape-wine relationship. Social, artistic and technical pelaverga, investigating the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur in farming and then, winemaking. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Vino Rosso

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Donna Costanza Cardunaj Vino Rosso 2017

A digestif wine, a Brachetto vinified dry and so curious. A dessert wine with no fizz and just a touch of sweetness. A moment’s Amaro bitters but no sense of liqueur. Odd to be sure. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Pas Dosè Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

A 50-50 nebbiolo and arneis mix, seven years on the lees, from the 2012 vintage and disgorged in October 2019. Yes you read this properly, seven years on lees. The Malabaila connection to the Esterhazy royalty in Austrian indirectly bridges two estates and you can’t help but think about the Blanc de Blancs made in the Burgenland. Zero dosage means lean, direct, sharp and energetic bubbles with remarkable precision. These are Grandi Langhe bubbles from Roero, not to be missed. First vintage was 2010. Can’t be Millesimato because it’s a blend. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Rosato DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Rosato DOC 2018

From Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila with perfectly typical Rosato colour for nebbiolo taken from Roero lands. ’Tis a coppery hue, sexy rusty, mimicked in flavours with a note like lemon tisane. Steep in some currants and sweet herbs and you get the picture. Poured from magnum and good thing because a table of six would have otherwise gone very thirsty. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC

Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC Anas Cëtta 2019

Cold stabilization and some wood aging but in botti, no longer in barriques. I have yet to put the nose to my glass and the aromatics are coming out. A semi-aromatic grape with here in 2019 from peach, elderflowers and high level acidity. I would imagine it’s most akin to chenin but even that is a stretch. The drinkability meeting complexity is off the charts. Once you go tactile-textile nascetta like this you may never go back. Approximately 16,000 bottles produced. One of now 30-plus producers in the Langhe. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020.  Drink 2020-2023

Le Strette Nas-cëtta Langhe DOC Pasinot 2018

Nascetta, or Nas-cëtta, as they say in the commune of Novello with fruit out of Pasinotti, Bergera, Pezzole and Tarditi at altitudes of 350 to 420m. Planted over many decades, in 1948, 1983, 2009, 2014 and 2016. The Piedmontese grape rarity likes the sandy, calcareous clay and its emission is semi-aromatic. This example sits somewhere between riesling and gewürztraminer though truth be told seems closer to friulano what with its glycerin and off-dry sentimentality. Novello is the place and the heights help bring about the oiliness and preserved citrus notes from the grape. Needs another year to fully bloom. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Favorita DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Favorita DOC Donna Costanza 2018

A label made by Lucrezia’s father (who passed away in 2010) for his wife and her mother. Endemic, full of drive, a touch of a sweetness and in a way a cool, northern example that is linked to inzolia, or even zibbibo. More texture here and alloy notation. Lingers with herbs and sweet citrus. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Roero Arneis DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Arneis DOC Pradaj 2018

Pradaj in Piedmontese is “A valley with grass and flowers” and clearly a reference to the aromatics in the grape variety from this place. A perfectly correct and referenced arneis indeed and an ideal match to the local Plin agnolotti filled with herbs. When the arneis from Roero speaks clearly it does so like this, unadorned, floral and calm. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Birbét

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Birbét Donna Costanza 2018

Mosta d’Uva parzialmente fermentato or, grape must partially fermented to five point five per cent alcohol. Served traditionally as dessert though it could certainly be employed in aperitivo format, as Brachetrto d’Acqui often is. Very cherry, lightly carbonated and sweetly herbal. Simple pleasure. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Barolo DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2016, Riserva 2014, 2006 and Riserva 2004

The Albeisa bottle is the symbol of the Langhe territory

Preview of Barolo DOCG 2016

Nothing in the behaviour of these nebbiolo consents to their age. Too serious, too impenetrable and at the same time terribly sharp, focused and severe. Wines as stiff as justice. Somehow they intimidate us but also create an environment for sheer, prolonged and utter enjoyment. Or at least they will, eventually, with time. When they arrive at their intended destination they will surrender a Barolo impression that we are barely drinking them. A retrospective look at yesterday Barolo DOCG 2006 and Riserva DOCG 2004 confirms from then, through current considerations, what will happen tomorrow.

Nebbiolo seekers may still be reminiscing about the Barolo & Barbaresco world opening as the largest appellation tasting for Italian wine in the United States. The event took place in New York City back in February 2020, featured over 200 producers, hosted 800-plus trade attendees and 500-plus consumers. Big stuff. As for me, my most recent Langhe experience was in January 2020 when I travelled to Alba in Piemonte for Nebbiolo Prima 2020 and Grandi Langhe. I tasted more than 600 nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, arneis, freisa, chardonnay, pelaverga and even riesling during the eight day work staycation. Grande.

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Tasting at Nebbiolo Prima 2020

Vintage 2016 was the first from which Barolo DOCG exceeded 14 million bottles and that number accounted for 22.4 per cent of the total volume reported by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani. That Barolo and Barbaresco are so prominent is due of course to their international stardom but from a real and factual standpoint the fact is that nebbiolo plantings make up 37 of the Langhe region’s total vineyard space. All appellations and varietals are important and need to be tasted at the combination of Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe Trade Fair. Yet the bottom line remains. Barolo is king and most attendees are puppies in love when it comes to chasing that regal nebbiolo dream.

Menzione Geographica

Barolo’s cru system has elevated nebbiolo to the top of the Italian wine charts and few would argue against it residing at the head of the global wine buying and collecting chain. Mentioning the geographical location is Barolo’s calling card and no other Italian appellation has built such a veritable reputation on the pinpointing of locations. The mere preesence of a Menzione Geographica on a Barolo label tells a specific story. In 1879, Lorenzo Fantini in his “Monograph of Vine Growing and Enology in the Province of Cuneo,” offered an accurate description of the zone and defined Nebbiolo as “the prince of vines.” Again, Fantini in his “Monograph” wrote “if the vine has within itself excellent qualities it is also undoubtedly true that the elaboration of its heavenly juice requires favorable land and soil. Not all soils provide equal savor, so if we must doff our caps to this princely vine, we must revere with equal respect that earth which hosts and maintains it…the vine growth along the Langhe slopes, so rich and luxuriant, dominates all other cultivations. To the amenities and asperities of those hills, the hand of man and investment have cultivated the most splendid of vines which in turn have entirely altered the aspect of those localities. If from the high plateau of La Morra you cast a look at the vast surface of grape vines stretching out before you, upon beholding those magnificent vineyards, so won.” (Source: “Nebbiolo the Territorial Vine” by Pietro Ratti 2004)

Barolo by the numbers

By the numbers

Albeisa is a non-profit organization whose primary mission is to develop and promote the wine production of the Alba area. The Union of Alba Wine Producers manages the use of the bottle Albeisa, or Alba bottle, and represents approximately 230 members and 13 million bottles. Thanks, as always, must be afforded Albeisa’s guiding light and force, as in the organization’s President, Domaine Punset’s Marina Marcarino. This is what I have said (more than once) about the fearless leader and her charge. “Always the first to pioneer, lead, teach and share, Marcarino expressed the pride and the passion of the community of producers that worked tirelessly to create this formidable assembly. Albeisa’s goal is not singularly focused. This event is not simply a matter dedicated to the tasting of wine. Agricultural evolution and wine-producing innovation are a major focus, always with a socio-economic bearing kept in mind.” At the opening dinner in Alba at the week-long host Hotel I Castelli, it was pointed out that the number of declarations for labelling always exceeds what is bottled. That is because three of four years after harvest 25-30 per cent of producers decide to de-classify their Barolo (2013 numbers). In that vintage 147 declared and 128 bottled. In terms of menzione geographica 46 per cent declared and at harvest 23 actually bottled with the name of a Barolo cru. There has been a steady decline of the de-classification of grapes. Barolo’s loss is Nebbiolo DOC’s gain.

Journalists at Nebbiolo Prima 2020

The feelings and sensations gained in assessment of so many Barolo perforce was at the time, an unbearably lucid experience. The exercise is a test of will, staying power and endurance. Nebbiolo Prima is a sprint and a marathon wrapped into one. Who could not be made stronger, wiser and yet so humbled by having tasted through the experience. These notes reflect my experience, my connection to Piedmontese life, performing to others rhythms. The totality of these tasting notes cover Barolo DOCG 2016 (197), Riserva 2014 (6), 2006 (20) and Riserva 2004 (7), played to the tune of 230 reviews.

All the Nebbiolo. Nearly 400 over four days. Roero, Langhe, Barolo, Barbaresco.

  • ***** denotes wines of the vintage

460 Casina Bric Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2016

A cracked not-pepper, yes reductive if early corrective without reveal and aromas are all tar melt to fresh roses, though high in tone. This is Bricco delle Viole and will be very serious Barolo, tightly wound and equipped with some formidable structural unease. Look forward and further, far down the road. Drink 2023-2029.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Abbona Marziano Barolo DOCG Cerviano Merli 2016

Quality concentration, richness of fruit, wild-eyed acidity and mature tannins make for an across the board effective and pleasurable Novello Barolo. A fine sample that will drink well early and in the near term. take full advantage. Drink 2021-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Abrigo Fratelli Barolo DOCG Ravera 2016

Big-boned nebbiolo here in Ravera clothing, so rich and concentrated, clearly from a warm part of the cru (perhaps the warmest) and a winemaker who allows the heavy fullness to do its thing. Welling and oozing with sumptuousness, thick tannin and ultimately a matter here of great Novello density. A style born out of necessity. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Very handsome Novello nebbiolo, finely chiseled Ravera structural components with taut flesh and timeless disposition. The variegated hue tells so many stories through so many layers, as does the way the transitions move through space and time with finesse and effortless ease. It’s a highly tannic and fierce competitor but the race is a marathon in this case, not a sprint. Drink 2023-2035.  Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Welcome to Bussia. This is the prudent one, far from promiscuous and very promising. Hides everything and is not so fast to give anything away. The textural components are all together; chew, crunch, soft and crackling. Grooves slowly and changes tempo. Not sure which way it will go but its subtlety and its impression will not be denied. From Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Sorano 2016

High toned and octane Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo with acids ripe, ripping and all over the map. Makes the fruit look silly and small though tannin is negligible. Simple red lightning in Barolo. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2016

Youthful Verduno but the sample exhibits tones quite up there with red citrus and wood-derived signs. Still a bit lean and verdant. In this adolescent state of grace it just seems woody, chewy and not even close to prime time. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Alessandria Gianfranco Barolo DOCG San Giovanni 2016

Fresh and effacing, ripe and ready for all that’s coming. Very Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo, in a flat out juicy way and tannins stuffed in back pockets. Knowable and reasoned for what mind of expectation commits. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Assessing Barolo DOCG 2016

Alessandro Rivetto Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

So very ripe and extracted of very red berry Serralunga d’Alba fruit in a candied if savoury way. A nebbiolo of fruit, high acidity and simple structure. Nicely drinking and if it’s inexpensive I’ll gladly drink a few. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Amalia Cascina In Langa Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2016

Quiet and in low light demure, not overly expressive for 2016 Barolo. Tart and dry, not must juice or even moisture. Can’t see this Monforte d’Alba developing much more complexity though when it settles there will be pleasure afforded. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Angelo Negro Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

This is nebbiolo of largesse. prim, proper and so bloody commercial for all the correct reasons. Everyone can enjoy this as nebbiolo, Serralunga and Barolo. Clean and crisp with all the mild mannered and perfectly reasonable parts. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2016

Quite smoky, so much so it seems that the smoke has only very recently been extinguished. So much barrel toast and smoulder. Juicy with tobacco resonating throughout. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo in the big time, ripe, rough tumbling and nearly rambunctious. The warmth and developing liqueur is nothing but comforting and enveloping. Carries through without staying away from the initial portent and plan. Big, Rocche di Castiglione boisterous and impressive. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

And now for something completely different. This nebbiolo from Monvigliero is all saucisson, or in this Piedmontese instance, Cottechino. Honestly, just like it, raw and hematic, but also liberally perfumed, with roses of course. Structurally there are few equals and so the diversity in expression leaves a long-lasting and highly consequential impression. Now we are beginning to see why some would consider this Verduno as one of the greatest vineyards in the world.  Drink 2023-2036. Tasted January 2020

Anselma Famiglia Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

A wealth of collected features and possibility abounds in this Monforte d’Alba Barolo though the barrel is still very much a prominent aspect of the coverall condition. Really textured, chewy and tannic of push and thrush. Layers of Bussia structure need to peel, unfold and melt away. Drink 2022-2029.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Ascheri Barolo DOCG 2016 ($56.99)

The Ascheri label is from La Morra. Seemingly the sort of Barolo that was, is and will always be this way. A bit rustic, surely made to act like itself vintage after vintage, coming across as fresh enough and equipped with all the dried fruit, savoury edging and portents that speak to the nebbioli of generations. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Ascheri Barolo DOCG Coste & Bricco 2016 ($75.00)

Quite extracted and concentrated Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo with so much orange on the nose. Blood, scraped and juiced but also hematic and layered. Huge wine of fruit, acids and tannin. Nothing left behind, in the Coste & Bricco fields, in the barrels or on the table here. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2016

All in nebbiolo of earthy, swarthy and concentrated if chewy fruit. Also a touch volatile. Drink 2021-2024.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2016 ($54.95)

Some quietly acquiesced development already in this sultry and sumptuous La Morra Barolo. That nebbiolo can do this is youthful exuberance is the speciality of the place, especially in Rocche dell’Annunziata where the acumen amongst winemaking is off the charts. This may peak earlier than some others but full enjoyment can be had nonetheless. Drink 2021-2026.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Barale Fratelli Barolo DOCG Castellero 2016

Youthful and slightly lean Castellero, with a transparency and tisane to be very sure. Really classic Barolo commune tannins, not overt as say anxiety inducing, but more than properly present and accounted for. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Barale Fratelli Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

The aromas here are dramatically 2016. Ripe and racy with a cured salumi note. Stay here for a few minutes and you are gifted tar and roses, For real. The way this Monforte d’Alba Barolo has been handled is so proper and gives it every opportunity to succeed. High quality Bussia for sure. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2016

Quite the gregarious and expressive Briccolina aromatic sensation emits and gifts while in withstand against a formidable structural exchange. Plenty of fruit and just as much wood mean modernity and a whole lotta vanilla love. It’s a style to be sure, almost late 90s and early 2000s but there can be no avoiding what pleasure so many will derive from such an exercise. From Serralunga d’Alba. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2016

The full gamut of fruit play is in. Scarrone is orange in so many ways and also umeboshi plum, prune, berries and ultimately like a slow rendered Marbella demi-glacé. Very rich Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo, welcoming its wood and giving away without shyness nor restraint. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Oh my the tobacco on this Verduno nebbiolo from Monvigliero is uncanny. Like grandfather’s pipe snuffed out but lingering and so obvious when you enter the room. Then the scent turns sweet and comforting, a warm hug of a nebbiolo beneath a blanket of couverture by tannin. Throws the cru at you with everything it can and should. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted January 2020

Borgogno Barolo DOCG Liste 2016

Particular and singular aromas from Liste speak of and to a Barolo nebbiolo sense of wildness and freedom. Great acids, fruit slung across a pole draped with both fruity and earthy opportunity. Really compact and extended with great length. A touch peppery warm but when it settles the beauty will surely emerge. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Borgogno Francesco Barolo DOCG Brunate 2016

A forceful La Morra nebbiolo in hard-shell clothing there may seem to be morbido and amenable aromatic compounds but the palate hits you like a ton of mortar and brick. Crunchy, earthy and intense. This Brunate will soften and become a much more impressive wine in five plus years time. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Boroli Barolo DOCG Brunella 2016

The high resonance distracts with both brightness and humour though it purports to tell a thin story. The insubstantial texture speaks to the fruit conecntration and the inability of structural parts to save. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Sommeliers of Nebbiolo Prima 2020

Burlotto Comm. G.B. Barolo DOCG Acclivi 2016

A bit past prime aromatically speaking with a developed note of dried fruit and yet with some scarped skin energy that gives it a rightful tang. Quite orange in flavour, some tisane and mild finishing tannic twang. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Borgogno Fratelli Serio E Battista Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016

Cannubi of Barolo spice cupboard is just thus, just like this. That and sweet dried fruit, desiccated floral petals and some mean verdancy in the tannins. Seems soft but it’s really not. Time will ease the edging and the tension. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Boroli Barolo DOCG Villero 2016

The third Villero style comes across through this more gregarious and less subtle Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo. Seeks quicker admiration and offers more immediate gratification. Texture is more liquid chalky and acids more integrated. Peppery in a non-reductive and French way with a really, really juicy finish. Fast admiration for such a specimen. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Bosco Agostino Barolo DOCG Neirane 2016

Taut Verduno nebbiolo, richly embossed, hungrily ambitious and dealing in parts long, purposed and fine. Quite a warm compliment of Neirane seasoning, salt, pepper and wooden piques over every bit of the fruit in and out of time. We’ll see about this barrel bruiser because the red fruit seems to handle it just fine. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Bovio Barolo DOCG Gattera 2016

A gregarious La Morra this Gattera in aromas though more down to earth on the palate. Texture is lean and elastic while tannins sharpen their digits on the fruit. Some distraction and separation. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Bovio Barolo DOCG Rocchettevino 2016

Deep inhalant of La Morra nebbiolo this one with as much Rocchettevino vineyard soil, climate and tradition instilled, installed and distilled. Quite tannic and tense, in fact the attention to nervous detail is commanding and invigorating. A high quality structural if old school example. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016

Tough early, tart and intensely textured Cannubi, very cool in climate oriented and sweetly herbal. Relatively soft and amenable acids, but also, in a way, Barolo tannins. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2016

Sarmassa for Barolo nebbiolo brings a cupboard full of spice, a brush past greenery in winter in the wood next to the vineyard and steeps a tisane from all the twigs, leaves and herbs. Then turns to face the roses, where sweet notes bloom and pleasure awakens. Will offer great pleasure in the five year range. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

As you might expect the uncanny scent of roses in so many incantations is the thing and everything, at least in the beginning. Fresh bouquet and dried petals circulate in stereo. Offers nebbiolo faith to go on and it’s only just begun. Though the absolute tightly gift-wrapped fruit needs little and asks for nothing at this early stage it will in turn return everything it received. A wonderful vintage of Coste di Rose Barolo. “This will be our year, took a long time to come.” Drink 2023-2034.  Tasted January 2020

Bricco Giubellini Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2016

Still reductive and in this case the rubber and pepper are how it shows. Chewy and near massive in its acid-tannin missive continuum. Really dramatic and big-boned nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba with a need to come about and into balance. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Bricco Maiolica Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Diano d’Alba 2016

The tonality here is exceptional, high and mighty, unsettled, breathing heavily, yet disturbed. Needs time. From Diano d’Alba. Drink 2020-2022.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Broccardo Barolo DOCG I Tre Pais 2016 ($48.95)

Broccardo’s is a three-pronged Barolo affair from vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, Barolo and Novello for a true house amalgamation by Fillipo, Laura and Federico. While firm enough to speak about proper and cumulative nebbiolo structure there is an estate feel to I Tres Pais, a Piedmontese dialectical three verse poem that speaks to land, people and wine. That’s what Barolo is all about. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January and April 2020

Quite closed with little aromatic give. Seems protective, not so much reductive but keeps its Serralunga d’Alba Brea secrets hidden. The palate reveals more and especially a solid architectural foundation on which fruit can climb. This is a finessed and impressionistic Barolo with a great future ahead. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Badarina 2016

Good Serralunga d’Alba fruit core, a touch overripe and acidity tart, taut and in charge. All about that compendium distilled through Badarina. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2016

Really quite herbal, almost Amaro nebbiolo, cool, verdant, forest floor and foliage throughout. Solid structure with a minor note of bitters and drying edginess in the end. Fine appreciation for translating the Roddi-Bricco Ambrogio sense of place. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG 2016

Another simplified nebbiolo in La Morra Barolo dress albeit with a next level quality of concentration, chewiness and heft. Tannins are relatively mild and so it’s like Langhe Riserva, if there were such a thing. Lovely to drink, any night of the week. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG Capalot 2016

A bit of rose in the La Morra nose candy and a scrape of orange zest mark the entry before this Capalot nebbiolo gets down to serious tannic business. A clear message of ripe citrus melts into a fruity tisane with a few herbs and leaves stepped in for good measure. Fun little La Morra and neatly soothing. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

***** Cagliero Barolo DOCG Ravera 2016

Yet another completely different expression of Ravera and showing the great diversity of wines made from the cru. Tonality is higher but not so high as to shine so bright you need to wear shades. Builds and builds, first from ripe red fruit then through fine acids and elastic texture then to really fine tannins. A ver precise and accomplished Novello Barolo with so much life laying put on a red carpet ahead. Drink 2023-2034.  Tasted January 2020

Camparo Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2016

Very tisane in its aromatic beginnings, like Rooibos with a wedge of lemon. A bit lean and musty, like cool climate pinot noir from a less than ideal fruit vintage, here from Boiolo cru in La Morra. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Cantina Del Nebbiolo Barolo DOCG Perno 2016

Perno of another Monforte d’Alba stripe and colour, a bit dank and reductive, left to its own devices within the imbalance of its unhinging. Gives you its heart but you want its soul. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Carlo Revello & Figli Barolo DOCG 2016

Different sort of La Morra nebbiolo here, part tisane and part liqueur. Not sure it knows what it prefers to be. Hard to be both. The fruit seems concentrated on the nose but stretches leaner on the slightly dilute palate. Good enough. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Casa E. Di Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2016

Quite the firm Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo from Lazzarito cru right here, grippy in every respect, transparent, reeking of rose petals and old-school in many right ways. Does the singular thing it should and does it really well. Not so very multi-dimensional nor does it need to be. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Giuliana Drocco and Simone Ortale, Cascina Adelaide

From Serralunga d’Alba and because though this is just a baby doubled down by the forceful cru it is a highly precocious little one, with thanks to a vintage that opens earlier in this part of town. This may be a funny way to start the description of a very big wine but the intuition and clarity spoken by the 80 year-old vines is massive in missive, front loaded with fruit, acid and tannin. Back loaded too so expect a 20 year journey, give or take a few. Drink 2023-2034.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016 ($112.00)

From Barolo’s grand vineyard and in the hands of Simone Ortale a most elegant representation. Lighter, transparent, more floral aromatica and only handled inside the cellar by grandi botti. The result is also a sharper, pointed, high acidity nebbiolo, with more energy and lift. While still just an infant you can’t escape from seeing and tasting Adelaide’s Cannubi this way. Drink 2021-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Fossati 2016

A bit over to right side of extraction and concentration for Fossati driving forward with drying fruit mixed into the gregarious personality of the wine. The extra push of spice and herbal accents come with some Bretty quality along from La Morra as if like Rhône grenache in a warm vintage. Cool and frontal, fully unabashed in untamed beauty. Tannins need time though too much will go too far. Undeniable power. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Pernanno 2016

From Castiglione Falletto and one of eight cru produced by winemaker Simone Ortale. So apposite to what comes from Baudana, here more delicate, soft (even mores so than the Italian morbido) and an unseen nebbiolo to match with foods not necessarily associated with Barolo. When thinking pinot noir, think again. Think Pernanno. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Preda 2016

Preda meaning “strong point,” a vineyard right in front of the winery and 25 years old. As a nebbiolo it is the rustic one, at the bottom of the Barolo hill and also planted to barbera. A rich marl and sandy soil so opposite to the marly silt of Cannubi. A touch hematic in a mixture of iodine and blood orange with clear herbal and red citrus running through its veins.Though maturity and wisdom may not be at the levels of the likes of Baudana and Pernanno the effect are purely Adelaide. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

A bright and effusive Bussia for Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo can be just like this. A Barolo happy in the moment, full of berries and red citrus, with acids up front and tannins unobtrusive. A Barolo to drink now and for five-plus years while the tough ones sit and stew. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bricco Rocca 2016

Freshness of fruit comes clear and concise in this nebbiolo from Bricco Rocca in La Morra. Crunchy red fruit, of currants and candied roses with fine acidity and not so much easy as tannins that can’t be dealt with. A really pretty Barolo. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Lovely estate Barolo vineyard touch and gentle slide with rose petal and the mildest concrete meeting salumi cure. More than sneaky tannin but this slow creep and rise up to a yet unreachable crescendo. Star, painted Rothko swaths of rustic colour but so pure, so clean and so modern, yet not. Boschetti. Drink 2022-2031.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2016

Light and airy, no real need for brooding and like a full moon rising this goes dancing in the light. Knows where the music’s playing, feels the night. Nebbiolo like a Neil Young tune strummed on a harvest moon. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Del Monastero Di Grasso Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Bricco Luciani 2016

Classic La Morra really, light and transparent, tart and comforting. Some bitters and tonic as well though more like drops in a rosewater cocktail. This really brings the roses, dried, distilled and then soft to drying tannins. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Plin

Cascina Sòt Barolo DOCG 2016

Peppery reductive, full fruit development ensured, ripe and regal Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo. Great palate presence, focused and highly tannic. Acids are the glue and the catalyst for fun. Will please so many, of any and all camps. Drink 2021-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Cascina Sòt Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2016

Here the citrus in namely orange stylistic is mixed with cured salumi in a Bricco San Pietro nebbiolo of firm Monforte d’Alba form. Texture forms a step up and creates a new mood for older styled clothing. This is a classic in its particular and parochial way in how it talks the talk and walks the walk to complete a sense and for a place. Really proper and will live long. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Casetta Flli Barolo DOCG Casa Nere 2016

Classic, old-school, rich and dusty nebbiolo from the Casa Nere cru in La Morra. Some mustiness but a cool savour that speaks to ancient soil and the adage that tells us nebbiolo needs time and the glass. This will come around. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Castello Di Verduno Barolo DOCG 2016

Lightly candied, tea soaked and orange citrus macerated. Solid and Verduno purposed, slightly old-school and perfectly seasoned for some good Barolo times. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Altenasso O Garblet Suè O Garbelletto Superiore 2016

So bloody volatile and hematic valentine. Earthy fruit and crunchy texture, finishing with tough tannin. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Bigger, thicker, fuller packed Bricco Boschis nebbiolo is this, of greater concentration and without compromise. The consistency carries through, from the aromatic start, with an startling chromatic burst, through the waves of palate strength and energy. Then with tannic thrush so integrated and yet unyielding. That’s how structure ensures longevity. Drink 2022-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Ginestra is a Monforte d’Alba animal altogether different. So rich, compact, rife with connective tissue and full on expressive. Big in every respect beginning with its berry and cherry fruit all the way down through the lines of structural adversity. So much gumption, attitude and power. Must be the sun, the exposition and the heights. The Sorì Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo DOCG Monfalletto 2016

An advancing nebbiolo is like this with fruit very developed and tannins keeping things from going soft or past prime. In its wheelhouse just about already, integrated, playing as one, ready to match the table. Make use of this Barolo while more formidable examples take their sweet time. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

So many things to fault here. Volatility at the top, barnyard below and the shower curtain drawn. Obviously a flawed bottle.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Crissante Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2016

Up there in terms of tones played and light, in cherry and rose water. A hint of liquorice and fennochio so savoury in an aniseed way. Tart, chewy and from the La Morra earth. Solid commune-based nebbiolo. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Lalibera, Alba

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot 2016

A quiet La Morra nose, a cool factor, a mint to evergreen line but oh so subtle as such. Good strength in acidity and command in tannin. This is a confident wine with Capalot bones and some fruit substance to cling on, hang around and be there when the integration takes place. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina 2016

Dusty and rusty La Morra-Arborina nebbiolo, earth-crusted and fruit just a touch dried. Seems older than ’16 and were it a five to seven year-old Barolo it would seem perfectly suited and aged for what should and even must be. Lacks freshness for 2016 but truth be told it would come across as true and worthy without the stigmata of vintage attached. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2016

Wild berries meet juicy acidity in one of those Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo that rushed to the secondary gate and should remain there for a few years. Knows itself before many do and that advanced personality will see it drink beyond its age while others wait to grow up. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2016

Quickly the tone of Le Coste di Monforte is revealed, on the light and drying side of nebbiolo things with a wild berry note that’s subtle and rewarding. Tannins seem to exceed the fruit a touch though they care little for bitters. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2016

Rich, ripe and developed at least as far as 2016 sugars are conceded and concerned. Goes at it wholeheartedly, without hesitation and includes a minor note of verdancy. The wood fills in the holes and you notice it. I promise you. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Dosio Barolo DOCG 2016

Spice notes on the nose take centre stage so wood is the immediate factor of record. Tannins follow suit and in between is acidity quite fine and very respectable. This is an architectural nebbilolo from the La Morra producer of perfectly reasonable ubiquity and top notch seasoning. Drink 2021-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Dosio Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2016

Candied and earthy at the same time so feet in two worlds and not really quite connected at the twain. Crunchy tannin with a fruit lingering nicely in its youthful time of need. Solid La Morra if not truly remarkable Serradenari Barolo. Drink 2021-2025.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

With Giorgio Boschis

E. Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Via Nuova 2016

Via Nuova is the assemblage, the house wine, Vigna della Casa and a wine of all encompassing perfume. A mix of finesse and structure. Also textured with a charming glycerin and experiential moments in thyme. There is much pride and dreaming hope for 2016, with great aging potential. The tannins creep up, take hold and remain, secured and bonded. That’s nebbiolo grip and persistence incarnate. Drink 2023-2035.  Tasted December 2019 and January 2020

Why is Mosconi so special. “Why is anyone more beautiful than the other?” Nature. A connection to Domenico Clerico and when Chiara had a chance to join this plot she jumped. The flowers come at you in waves. The fruit is everywhere and all is stored inside, kept safe, comforted and comfortable. South facing below the village and again it just must be the place that brings this level of joy, elegance and structure. There are 25-30 years of life ahead for this 2016. So glad Chiara became a part of la squadra Mosconi. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted December 2019 and January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova DOCG 2016 ($54.95)

“I consider 2016…a perfect vintage,” says Valter Fissore, “fresh, elegant and complex.” This comes from the youngest vines, under 17 years old, made for those who don’t want to wait 20 years. A Barolo that you could not find 20 years ago, from a blue vintage, the best kind. Yes, a true blue vintage it is, not just a simple blue and so very different to barbera. Fine tannins but ones that are very present. They build but not too much. “My Barolo are neither traditional nor modern. They are post-modern.” Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

A 50 day maceration with a big amount of capello sumerso and 24 months of botti aging. From the blue vintage and fruit in the heart of La Morra that is the epitome of Ravera. Grippy and smooth, silken texture and tannins at their parochial finest. Savoury and sapid, wound tight and walking a straight line. No angles, no edges, niente spiggolo. Reminds Valter of Elvio’s Brunate ’78, at least in style; drinkability, sweetness and texture. Can bend without breaking, inveterate, elastic, long and eternal. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

Enrico Serafino Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

A slightly warm annd boozy nebbiolo this one, warm site(s) in Serralunga d’Alba derived and delivering a wealth of spiced red fruit. Again it is acidity that directs the motive and the plan. Just a touch overripe and overdone. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Ah Fossati and its flirtatious aromatics, cheery, cherry and floral. A candied pansy and rose, a red citrus and a lightning quick set of fruit reflexes. Terrific texture, presence and finesse. Does what needs, for La Morra, come what may. Proper, elaborate and fine. Drink 2022-2031.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Ettore Germano Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2016 ($89.00)

The most reductive Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo in the day’s tasting thus far is this cracked pepper one sprinkled over a hard savoury candied shell. What fierce and grippy structure this killer Cerretta exhibits with no prisoners taken, so none can be released. Well perhaps in five or so years there will be some sort of release and while fruit is pretty strong in its own right I’m not so certain it will keep up with the Joneses. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Fenocchio Giacomo Barolo DOCG Villero 2016

Similar Villero transparency, effusive character and boundless possibility. Never needing to strike with force or command attention. The fruit concentration steps up with this example as does the acid-tannic lineage. The texture and drying, sear-sucking, moisture deprivation is noted so balance is just a bit teetering. Still Villero though, from Castiglione Falletto. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo DOCG 2016

All things being equal there is nebbiolo, Barolo and overall ubiquitous personality emanating from this wide-ranging one. Takes everything in stride, assembles the parts and creates the classic construct of local apparatus. Everyone can use this machine and use it well for a decade. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Fogliati Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Lovely aromatic beginning, floral, near racy and if smells were juicy this would be how they were. The palate follows suit with plenty of flesh, also provided by buoyant acidity. Crisp, clear, clean and nothing short of drinkable. Stuffing is ample and to be honest a breath of fresh, not kill you with tannin air. Quality Bussia out of Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda 2016 ($33.00)

Quite ripe and effusive at the same time, part fruit juicy and part bright red citrus light. A middle road taken Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo with prominent features and structurally sound constitution. Quite composed, grippy and ready to take on a ten year run. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

Quite ripe, overly so, extracted, pressed and compressed. The concentration is clearly impressive though there’s not much substance behind the fruity veil. Will drink well for a few years and then fall asleep into an oxidative state. From Serralunga d’Alba. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Now into the Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo of Villero, so apposite, ulterior and offering the great change of pace. Firm, transparent, beautiful. Seemingly simple and just lovely there can be no hiding feelings that this from Castiglione Falletto is holding back layers lining the floor of the depths. The subtleties are boundless and the finesse too. Some may find this lacking but if you can’t see the forest for the flesh you not be paying close enough attention. Drink 2022-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Fortemasso Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2016

An apposite Castelletto from Monforte d’Alba, still transparent but with fruit and substance of a deeper heart. No real glycerin to the texture and though it shines through there too is a next level layer of concentration. Perhaps not in comparison to certain storied cru but in quality compassion nonetheless. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

A completely new Italian experience through a lens into the streets of curious Cherasco.

Fracassi Umberto Barolo DOCG Manteoetto 2016

Somewhat closed nose though you can tell even without tasting that the palate will be rich. Deep cherry notes come across that transition and there is indeed this creamy texture leading down a path to lactic taste. Winemaking is on display here. From Cherasco. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Margheria 2016

Strength in protection and reduction makes this a Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo to look at in protractive ways. A touch of Brett is clearly in the fray so expect an earthy, grippy and woolly Margheria for the long haul and the stay. Not going anywhere for quite some time. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2016 ($46.95)

There’s a next level set of circumstances presented and acquiescesd in this Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo from the prominent and formidable cru of Gabutti. Fruit is big time while structural components are bigger. There can be little reason to go at it all in while so youthful because better and more integrated lies ahead. Liquid chalky, fine acidity and textural identity define and get in the face of tension so that movement happens and will continue in this positive way. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Franco Conterno Barolo DOCG Panerole 2016

So much wood influence as noted by the vanilla, graphite and even American-oak like coconut on the nose. Hides the nebbiolo character entirely. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Francone Barolo DOCG 2016

Overripe and oxidative. Dried flowers and fruit. Drink 2020.  Tasted January 2020

Francesco Rinaldi E Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016

Quite youthful and candied strawberry Cannubi. Younger vines perhaps and a bit of bubble gum-jammy aromatic start. After that all tannin and grip. Drink 2021-2025.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Here is yet another stunning aromatic Verduno nebbiolo from Monvigliero albeit once again so stupidly youthful so as to get in the way of the knowing and the wanting. Lovely palate texture, silken and fine. All the structural attributes follow suit, in precision and long a perfectly reasonable line. Will be a great one. Drink 2023-2031.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo DOCG 2016

Very structured, highly classic and fruit secondary though righteous and proper enough to hang aboard a solid framework of Barolo ubiquity. Classic Novello in so many understood and expected ways. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Baudarina

Richer and more extracted nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba and Baudarina is just this. That said the concentration from ripeness and pressing has has not brought along the negative aspects in tow. No astringency, verdancy or bitters so that’s a very good thing. Drink younger while more demanding commune crus bide their time. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

The thing of Bricco delle Viole that is beauty emits with gala fruit force into the canals of the layers. Bricco dell Viole the singular Barolo cru, from which fruit, texture and extension are consistently planned out, mapped and organized. So wound, so found and following a path that runs along a line along a circle. Slow unwind and unfolding coming, culminating in developed notes, to be far away, somewhere between then and then. Too soon to tell. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Torriglione 2016

A highly specific nebbiolo from Torriglione, fruity but shy, tempered and distilled. A liqueur like nose but nothing too heavy, sweet, salty or sour. Ulterior and finessed, sharp and mineral, spiced and even spicy. A real La Morra Barolo with the ability to allow you to find joy in a half decade’s time. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’annunziata 2016

Another fine exampe from Rocche dell’Annunziata where there just seems to be a collective intuition for righteous, classic and proper. Great structure and concentration right here, second to none. Prime La Morra Barolo, primal nebbiolo and primo execution. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Garesio Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

An ulterior version of Barolo from Serralunga is this, high in its tonality and buzzing with energy. The acidity is in full tang while the tannins too do the same. Not so much grippy as full of energy. Very good short term potential. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Garesio Barolo DOCG Gianetto 2016

Quite solid of Serralunga d’Alba bones and equally capable in Gianetto flesh is this high acid dripping with red fruit nebbiolo. Pretty sharp and exceptional in tang from which that acid structure is everything and more. Will drink like this for a few seasons and then fade lightly away. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Gemma Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2016

Somewhat thin and dishy Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo without much ado. Purely and clearly varietal in its locality though the drying tannins do not quite match the fruit. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Gemma Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

Just smells like liqueur, hot and bothered, no delicacy for what nebbiolo wants and needs. Very extracted, concentrated and full of spicy glycerin, there’s just a lack of love and finesse. Impressive though for and from Serralunga d’Alba. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Very aromatic, highly prominent proboscis and spiced to the hilt. One of the very few nebbiolo that noses fennel in very fresh form. Also a tomato aspect but no leaf. Takes what the grand-sized Bussia cru gives and runs with the feeling. No shortage of Monforte d’Alba character or complexity. The winemaker must be pleased with this work from 2016. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Ravera 2016

A bit troublesome to nose, earthier than expected and a bit subdued. Perhaps just the block in Ravera that broods and sleeps a bit. Calm I suppose is what this Novello nebbiolo needs and chooses to exercise. Continues to flatline with not much tension in the mix. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Sottocastello Di Novello 2016

Quite up front this Novello nebbiolo sits with great presence. The response will be one met with consideration for greatness and it should merit some of that adulation. That said it’s stretched and youth likely its best attribute. The stuffing is not fully insulating. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Osteria del Signotori

Gian Luca Colombo Vini Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2016

Quite right this Bricco Ambrogio. Old school perhaps but finessed, righteous and well executed. Sensical and proper handling translate the Cru to this wine. Tannins are firm and elongated with just the sort of nebbiolo fruit core you expect every time you taste. Really solid wine from Roddi. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2016 ($91.50)

Oh my the wealth of strawberry and cherry is exceptional in this juicy Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo with some dried fruit edging. Shows a converse effect by barrel infiltration that makes it quite the gregarious one. Drink this Cerretta early. Drink 2020-2023.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Giulia Negri Serradenari Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2016

Stinky, mephitic, closed and ultimately a matter of being heavily reductive. Not much else happening because the palate is stretched and lean. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Grimaldi Luigino & C. Barolo DOCG Bricco San Biagio 2016

Decent fruit concentration though over-pressed and managed so that the latter half is astringent and tannins are concerning for their green streaks. Plausible in the short term, though will be troubling later on. Drink 2021-2024.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Josetta Saffirio Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2016

When nebbiolo emits this wild berry lift it’s just like this. You can fully imagine lying in a patch of June strawberries and eating them one after one. There are a million ways to go with nebbiolo so here presents just one of those ways. More acidity than tannin and that’s just the way this needs to be. From Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

I Colli Rossi Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2016

Slightly mephitic and full on tang dominate the aromas. Youth is a factor in most reductive ways while mouthfeel is quite special. A disjointed wine now and spirited, spiced, so protracted in a protected shell. Seems like the candied fruit and floral will turn into beauty someday. Much patience needed. From Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2023-2029.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

L’Astemia Pentita Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016

Volatile and Bretty together for a true lesson in older-schooled, microbial Barolo. Earthy and wet forest, river’s edge fruit. Not a whole hell of a lot of pleasure to derive here. Drink 2021-2024.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Who makes it happen? They do

La Bioca Barolo DOCG Ravera 2016

Crunchy and candy-savoury fruit with an earthy twist and a seriousness that speaks to Ravera the place. Perfectly middle ground example with weight, transparent clarity and a very expressive nature. Truth be told you feel the wood at the end. so wait on this Novello until tomorrow. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

La Carlina Barolo DOCG 2016

Quite ripe and very strawberry, cool, minty, herbal and with top notch acidity. Tannins are chalky, fine and grainy. So youthful and great expectations lay ahead. From Grinzane Cavour. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Le Ginestre Barolo DOCG Sottocastello Di Novello 2016

Big time aromatic Novello front, storm of flowers, ripe fruit and compact forest floor humus. All in with the aromatic wavs and nicely delineated to allow for good quality palate feel. If a touch sappy, the structure follows suit with sweet acids and also tannins. Really good presence and precision in Barolo with a long life ahead. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

La Fusina Barolo DOCG Perno 2016

Perno just seems to climb higher and higher, rising with all its parts in flight and unhinged. This Monforte d’Alba example carries a deeper sense of weight but still its temperature rises. All in for the sense of place. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

La Rachilana Barolo DOCG 2016

Strong mocker this Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo, fully reasoned, ripened and seasoned. Absolute clarity in vintage notability; rich, aggressive and tannic. Nothing held back and time is of the apposite essence. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Le Cecche Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2016

Harkens back to the adage of Bricco San Pietro being a cru of orange scrape in a citric range. Simple here from Monforte d’Alba, syrupy with spice and tannic liquidity. Representative if coming across a bit juiced sweet. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Le Strette Barolo DOCG 2016

More gregarious to nose with plenty of citrus, namely red of pomegranate and currant. Also a tomato leafiness and/or water that brings the verdant savour. Wood spice all over the back end, beginning with a peppery pique in the trip of the tongue . From Bergera-Pezzole cru in Novello. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Lodali Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2016

Simple, fruity, unadorned and not particularly structured there is some basic pleasure to find in this young Roddi nebbiolo. The Bricco Ambrogio tannins are late arriving and don’t stay particularly long. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Checkpoint Cherasco

M. Marengo Barolo DOCG Brunate 2016

Sugary aromatic waft of plum, peach, apricot and orange. Almost a saffron-like botrytis but its faux and curious. Texture is of the crusted and crunchy kind with a structure linear and polar when considering the nose of this La Morra nebbiolo. Curious Brunate for sure. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

M. Marengo Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2016

Quietest of the Bricco delle Viole, set highest atop the Barolo hill’s tone, equipped with the chalkiest, finest tannic grain. This one sears within, into and inside, lined with the dried, crusted petal florals and a curative strip. Crunchy and crusted, white pepper and great purpose. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Malvirà Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2016

Good if very transparent fruit concentration, currants and pomegranate, tannins a bit tart, taut and drying. Herbal and an Amaro note. Flattens at the finish. Drink 2020-2021.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG 2016

A solid tannic example of nebbiolo with a penchant for firmness and drying notes to match the fruit content of a good vintage. Crunchy and crusted, herbal and cool climate factored. Should turn into something very proper. Drink 2021-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG 2016

“Classic” Barolo from three La Morra vineyards, including Béri and Conca L’Annunziata planted in 1982. Round, rife with ripe ’16 fruit. Neither pushy nor risky, meaning the sweet acids and gentle tannins simply round out the possibilities. So pleasant and that’s what this is all about. Ideal restaurant Barolo. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Conca 2016

From La Morra commune and Conca cu. Very pressed, slightly oxidative and welling with cherry liqueur. Some sweetness and pushy tannin. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Gallinotto 2016 ($74.95)

Gallinotto is 100 per cent from Béri, the oldest vineyard and meaning “a small chicken,” from Piedmontese dialect, now also Italian. There is as much earthy substance as substantial fruit from Béri though not as savoury as you might think. Very grounded with roundness and texture on the palate. All the parts coalesce into classic nebbiolo patterning and you intuit a further purpose yet to be revealed. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG La Serra 2016

As the name suggests, La Serra comes a single vineyard in la Morra. Fashioned with power in mind, this is a small lot, raised in small casks nebbiolo to fortify and strengthen for a fulsome wine. The vanilla and graphite are prominent early and the transference to integration will be low and slow. Highly concentrated though also woollen, silken and a very linear wine. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2016

From Serralunga d’Alba, three years in tonneaux, a light and lifted nebbiolo from Cerretta cru. High-toned and also showing some rusticity across a range of dried floral and herbal potpourri. Roses for sure and a wood in space-time continuum. Classic really. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barolo DOCG Trèsüri 2016

From three parcels located quite proximate to Roncaglie in La Morra, inclusing 20 per cent of fruit from Cerretta. Three parcels on the highest parts of the hill gift fruit to spend three years in Grandi Botti. An easy, amenable and approachable Barolo for4 everyday use. Tons of sunshine, ripe fruit and ready, perforce to proceed. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG Gattera 2016

Richness and concentration on the nose like few other La Morra with palate texture using the land and the barrel to full advantage. Some earthiness and beetroot with sharp acids and demanding tannins. Big wine from Gattera with potential for those who like things in such packages. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Monchiero F. Lli Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Castiglione Falletto 2016

Cool, savoury, climatic old-school nebbiolo with all the classic moves and parts. Rose petal, tight acidity and dry your eyes, demanding tannins. Also peppery and pushy. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Monchiero F. Lli Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2016

Intense aromas speak louder and tell a quicker if deeper Castiglione Falletto story about a place (Rocche di Castiglione) and the potential. Smell this and exclaim. “Wow.” there’s a depth and a power, albeit a restrained one that is so modern and purposeful. Full in every respect, more so acidity than tannin but the latter is not exactly slumped in slouch formation. The excessiveness will work to dramatic early effect though not for decades. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Morra Diego Barolo DOCG 2016

A curious perfume, flowers desiccated and macerating in a simple syrup. A faux botrytis like saffron broth perhaps with plums and sangria like notes. Unusual and then raisining on the palate. Almost tropical. A style to be sure and worth watching the progression. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Morra Diego Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2016

Taut, dusty, cinnamon-spiced and hard to get. So youthful, way too early to speculate and yet the aromatics speak to Monvigliero’s ability and to its charm. Gets inside the Verduno nose and never relents. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Getting down to the gritty La Morra earth and the nitty grip in nebbiolo from Rive cru that takes little heed in the need to keep prisoners. Crunchy and full barrel effect in place with fine-grains of tannin filling every nook and pore. Will ride out two decades of development through funghi umami and tartufo. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted January 2020

Harder and tougher than other Brunate in that all parts are tense, nervous and demanding in such expedient youth. There needs to be a low and slow unwind to get to the heart of the nebbiolo matter. Will turn and morph into something crucial for La Morra. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Paolo Manzone Barolo DOCG 2016

Very pressed, extracted and ropey without much energy or drive, There are some grains of tannin but the waning is already in. Drink up and use what Serralunga d’Alba pleasures are contained within the here and now. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Paolo Manzone Barolo DOCG Meriame 2016 ($57.95)

Serious nose for this Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo with a grand tisane mixed into the gangly and gamey parts of the constituent plan. Tannic in so many ways, not the least of which is the steeping sachet of herbs, spices and all the parts of Meriame’s land. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

There’s something stirring in this formidably structured Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo, something about fruit but so much more about spice. All sorts of red citrus, seasoning, tar and roses abounds in a mess of Parafada fruit, Impressive, structured and long. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Alessandro Olocco

Ornato is at the higher ranges of Serralunga d’Alba, all clay and no sand. Same elévage as Parafada, meaning 24 montbs in Grandi Botti and French oak, pus a further 24 months in bottle. So much more charming than what we often consider as being Serralunga, Conversely grippy, big and intense. Soil’s tension passes and threads through the structure and it sticks because of the great concentration. Aggressive without astringency. Will live 20-25 years easy. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted January 2020

Parusso Armando Barolo DOCG 2016

The salumi cure and high toned aromatics are a dead give away for style and for what sort of chalky-sandy-marly soils this must have come from. Also developed and full of fruit that has made its full phenolic journey through to a late harvest. Will offer up its best pleasure earlier rather than later. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Pecchenino Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Youthfully reductive in fact dramatically so and wound so very tight. Rich and and not yet gracefully textural but smooth and capable of turning supple. A minor aromatic distraction comes from a microbe undefined. We’ll see which way this Bussia from Monforte d’Alba decides to go. Drink 2021-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Quite the rich and substantial fruit component in this from Le Coste in Monforte d’Alba and no surprise from the exceptional cru. You would have to be a fool of a big and misguided scheme to mess up Le Coste. The glycerin and palate presence are nothing short of grand in the way of how fruit works with barrel pride. This is for you who want a mouthful of Barolo. Mosconi abides. Drink 2023-2031.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Pelassa Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2016

Quite high toned with plenty of chocolate on the nose from wood. Too much tension and tartness to the point of high distraction. Vinyl and dusty. Too much. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Piazzo Comm. Armando Barolo DOCG Novello 2016

Quite extracted, syrupy and almost jammy nebbiolo. Even a touch oxidative and moving quickly, especially across the oxalate palate. No notability in the tannic structure. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2016 ($71.25)

A blend of communes for true estate blending business. Rich and developed dark fruit that goes for broke right from the word go. Also major tannins of mean business and some final bitters. No turning back from this one. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Pira Luigi Barolo DOCG Margheria 2016

Oddly perfumed and quirky with big tannic thrush over delicate textured fruit. A bit disjointed though the singularity and offer to connect with a sense of place (Margheria in Serralunga d’Alba) makes this a nebbiolo to look forward to, somewhere four to five years down the road. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Poderi Marcarini Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di La Morra 2016

Light, effusive and mild tisane of orange peel, herbs and woodsies. Lots of wood here and time is needed though it’s far from a spicy affair. Soft in texture and potential possible. Remains to be seen if there is enough fruit. Gotta have fruit. Hopefully that La Morra fruit. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Curious aromas, almost bloody, candied, floral. Such red fruit is a delicacy, exotic, floral again and even a touch reductive. A liqueur d’expedition in a way or in so many ways. Some mustiness needs to dissipate and when it does will reveal nothing but flowers. Tannins will not be forgotten, mistaken or forsaken. They from La Serra in La Morra mean business. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted January 2020

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2016

More orange scrape in the many varied citrus scents in this Bricco San Pietro. The cru gives and continues to give this way. Nice delineation if a bit lean in terms of feel across the palate. Simpler and easy as it comes. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Poderi Colla Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Cracker crusted Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo, firm, grippy and jumpy. Certainly still a minor amount of reduction keeps this fresh and intact. Not yet ready for prime time though the stuffing, bones and flesh are all there to make it happen. Remains to be seen if too firm and grippy Bussia get in the way. Drink 2023-20229.  Tasted January 2020

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016

As per the Cannubi prefect here Barolo commune presents the taut form, firm grip and tension filled youth. Località uncanny and far from entering a state of unraveling. Cool centre, savoury middle ground and firm as heck finale. Will always lay and be like this. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Principiano Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Boscareto 2016

Very pressed and already oxidative. Not sure this will every offer bright and lively pleasure. Perhaps an off bottle. Drink 2020-2022.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Raineri Barolo DOCG Perno 2016

Now we see that Perno can deliver so many different things. In here the tobacco is strong, lit and smouldering. Quite herbal as well, richly juiced and strong as tannic tea. Massive Monforte d’Alba wine with tannins of great demand. Needs the most amount of time but clearly the stuffing is there. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’annunziata 2016

On the earthier and swarthy side for Rocche dell’Annunziata with red plummy fruit crusted by clay and mineral salts. Still it can be nothing but La Morra Barolo from this storied cru what with its structural components seamlessly woven together. Another respectful nebbiolo with attention paid to local detail. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2016 ($59.95)

Pretty nebbiolo from La Morra, simplified, rose-candied and full of expressive fruit. Some will scoff at the lack of structure and seriousness but who could not want to seek the pleasure in its bright tones and lightness of being? Is it Barolo? Marcenasco? Of course it is. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted January 2020

Réva Barolo DOCG 2016 ($66.15)

Another highly seasoned nebbiolo of rather dark red fruit and barrel piques that create spikes and valleys in the wine. Hangs on with enough energy to see the acidity match the fruit stride for stride. There’s a sense of structure to see this ’16 last for a decade strong and long. Drinking window will open shortly so the temptation will be to imbibe often and early, thereby fertilizing the narcotic poppy of drinking pleasure. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

There is plenty to attract and be attracted to from this swarthy and regaling Cannubi. Big red fruit, dried wild strawberry, tart raspberry and very firm tannins. The pressing and subsequent astringency are temporary but will lead to an earthbound secondary stage.  Tasted Blind, January 2020

Réva’s Cannubi is based or is the extension of an idea, initialized in 2012, to have three different expressions in Barolo. The search is for elegance of La Morra or Barolo and the structure of Serralunga or Monforte. The third is a combination and that is found in Ravera. The Cannubi plot was owned by Fratelli Barale, a Cannubi di Cannubi right next to the cemetery of Barolo. It’s still a rented property and will be owned at the end of a 10 year contract. Pure Barolo, close your eyes and this is recognizable as the dictionary entry. Hue as in deep depths of pure red with a streak of light. Palate of acidity and fine tannins with length. Rich without being too strong. Not closed, does not attack your mouth and yet there is grip to keep it moving forward. Really fine tannins and fruitful pleasure. Drink 2022-2032.  Tasted January 2020

The single-vineyard cru Lazzarito is added in 2016 and it is Daniele Gaia’s first harvest at Réva. Drive the best car and drive it right away. “This is the best wine Réva has never made,“ says Gaia with great irony mixed into humility. Tasted from low temperatures (22-24 degrees) in tank there was fear of Lazzarito’s tannins. Here above Serralunga a long strip on the top of the eastern side of the hill gives a marl-calcaire meets sandy soil and so the best of both structural worlds; freshness (also from high pH) and grip. Yes it’s silly young and impressionable but already handsome, unadorned and fruit so crunchy, yet also sapid, a pinch salty and the impression of acidity is a freshness with thanks to that elevated pH. A sample but already in bottle and will be released in two years. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

Revello Fratelli Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2016

Solid Serralunga d’Alba juice in far right extraction without problematic grit. Cerretta Crunchy and tannic, fruit juicy and expressionist. Gives away all of itself and needs nothing in return. Will show well for three, maybe four years. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Reverdito Michele Barolo DOCG La Serra 2016

A big barrel influence on a La Morra nebbiolo of concentration means this will turn into something smooth, chocolatey and secondary before too long. Somewhat one-dimensional for La Serra in that respect. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Reverdito Michele Barolo DOCG Badarina 2016

Light, airy and transparent Serralunga d’Alba Barolo here with a nice balance between grip and finesse. The fruit has been gently coaxed, receives and creates its structural Baudarina identity with relative ease. Top quality mid-weight example. So reminds of the Barolo from Scarpa. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG 2016

A slight oxidative note but still quite attractive with dried strawberry and a natural cure. Quite frankly smells and also tastes like a field blend of grapes picked at different times, stacked and fermented together. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Rizieri Barolo DOCG 2016

Wildly aromatic front, namely untamed strawberry and some verdancy tossed in. Very La Morra nebbiolo in a rich and concentrated way, nearly glycerin, certainly taken full advantage of vintage possibility. Not overly complex or tannic but very, very drinkable. Drink 2020-2024.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Roberto Sarotto Barolo DOCG Bergera Pezzole 2016

Overtly hot and bothered. deeply rendered and distilled. Heavy extraction and vanilla in waves. So much wood. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

The brighter and higher toned Rocche dell’Annunziata is this example where fruit is parochial fruit but a steeping and a warmth takes it to a different level. More palate presence and furthered tannic fineness. There’s so much to appreciate and understand here, namely La Morra finesse and beauty. Drink 2022-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Rocche Dei Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2016

Wild berries and all the others in the market well up in this most fruity of Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo Barolo noses. It’s almost impossible how much red, blue and black berry fruit is in the mix. There are structural aspects but they pale in comparison. This one-dimensional wine is really something else. Modern is the understatement. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Roccheviberti Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2016

Slightly elevated in its lift and sour entry. Very much in the saffron, blood orange and scraped skin vein. Searing inwards and so bloody implosive Rocche di Castiglione. So much character and Castiglione Falletto personality in abound. Wait for this to come back down. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

A particulaly youthful and formidable nebbilloo from Bricco Boschis in Castiglione Falletto, no shrinking violet of a cru or in how it can confound the young and impressionable. There’s so much going on with respect to aromas; cured meat, fresh roses, rosewater, paved roads, fennel frond and spice. Then comes this brick of texture of inside like airy nougat. So real, so purposed, finessed and of the greatest intendment. How can you not see this but as a twenty year wine? Can’t you hear the organ croon out length, building to crescendo and classicism? Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Here is a really taut, firm and yet forgiving Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo from Bussia. Unmistakeable as Barolo with its masculine missive, its unrelenting structure and how it just says wait. Emphatically so. Big bones and long aging probability for sure. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

San Biagio Barolo DOCG Capalot 2016 ($59.95)

Quite high-toned and really tannic La Morra nebbiolo. Very little Capalot fruit joy early and perhaps may not really come. Can’t imagine the fleshing or the integration. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Sansilvestro Barolo DOCG Patres 2016

Lean and closed, very youthful, not giving very much away. Chewy fruit, ripe acids and even riper tannin so when it emerges from the shell there will be a big ropey nebbiolo to sink teeth deep into. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

From the very large cru comes this high-toned nebbiolo with a certain sort of 2016 aromatic waft in tow. The citrus one bending towards the oxidative. Stays put and in touch with its plum fruit and tart acids. Drink soon. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Simone Scaletta Viticoltore Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro Chirlet 2016

Very cured and curative nose personality, like meats hung in the cellar of a wet concrete floor. Smells like winter, damp and draughty but it’s somehow comforting and encouraging. Tart, full on tang and really solid extension. Singular Monforte d’Alba Barolo from the nook of Bricco San Pietro Chirlet. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Perno 2016

Now welcome to Perno. Perno of Monforte d’Alba specificity. Perno to tell a cru story, of sweet, sour and salty fruit, if it can be thus simplified. Tang in fruit, tart in acid and crafty in tannin. This is no breeze but it does keep blowin’ down the blow. Wild and ripping, energy like few other. What drive from a cru that knows how to live. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2016

A touch of stable floor and a blue sky, late fall, fresh day’s ride along the trail. That and fresh red berry, plum and rose petal. So much aromatic Rocche di Castiglione beginning. Speaks to place (Castiglione Falletto) with palate feel and then a crunchy crusted finale. Yes this will morph into a fascinating wine in middle age. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

Ripe and effusive, bright aromatics, quite floral and great potential ahead. Quite pure for nebbiolo with enough grip after extraction to send it further than many from Serralunga d’Alba down a crafty and well-designed road. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Cerrati 2016

The Cerrati tones are set to the top right here and there’s no stepping down any time soon. A plum liqueur dominates with tannins so strong, so firm and admittedly, so fine. Big and chewy, the kind of Serralunga d’Alba Barolo that will really develop some dried fruit meeting cured meet, nuts and even a bit of funghi character. there’s surely enough finesse to see that happen. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta L’Llluminata Barolo DOCG Sant’Anna 2016

Fruity but in a juiced and reduced way, then swelled again with water. That sense is not so obvious but it describes the gains and losses of this La Morra Barolo’s swells. Texturally speaking it improves and impresses, as do the work of acids and tannin. Curious and potentially great. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG Montanello 2016

Very pretty Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo here from Montanello. Most overtly aromatic, never achromatic, seemingly pushy and tannic. Older of mind, body and soul. Old soul. There’s always a place in our hearts for such a Barolo. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

A deeper down the Monforte d’Alba well, twist of fate, somewhat dank though clearly serious nebbiolo of Bussia fame. So much tannin and yet charming. No questioning the personality and the effort. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Trediberri Barolo DOCG 2016

Cool and floral, red fruit in the candied to naturally sweet spectrum. Some tisane, savour and fine acidity. Tannins are easy and supportive. High ranking on the La Morra amenability factor. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Veglio Luigi E Massimo Barolo DOCG Raviole 2016

The Grinzane Cavour cru is indeed Raviole, the singular shape filled with red cherry fruit at the centre lightly volatile and edgy. Earth crusted and a potential for funghi or tartufi is definitely in the saucy or flaky future for this grainy farina nebbiolo. So curious and with so much possibility. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Vico Luigi Barolo DOC Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2016

A reductive one, one part woollen, one part peppery (like Cornas syrah) and one part volatile. really, really interesting and curious nose. Stays true to Serralunga d’Alba course both on the palate and in the way the retexture mimics, then creates. Such potential and possibility excites, as does the length. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Prapò 2016

Really nothing else in this long flight of Barolo smells like this Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo from Prapò. It’s a washed rind cheese meets berry clafouti with a yet undetermined set of bones and future. Confounding really and an absolute glaring example of Barolo in youth that resembles nothing of what it will one day become. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Viberti Giovanni Barolo DOCG Buon Padre 2016

Più Comuni brings vineyards together in strange advance with high toned character mixing with an ooze of liquorice and really developed red plummy fruit. Also some Brettanomyces then true tang from acidity. Big wine that climbs all over the map. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Vietti Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2016 ($175.00)

Reductive and protected with little movement this early in its youth. Good core of red Serralunga d’Alba fruit albeit a bit gritty and then some bitters creeping in. If a bit hard-pressed and drying you simply must intuit the youth and what kind of eventuality it will transpose towards and to what end. Forget it Jake, it’s Lazzarito. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

***** Vietti Barolo DOCG Ravera 2016

Here comes the seductive Ravera with everything beautiful up front at first scent. So liberally perfumed but a subtle fragrance, rose petal, jasmine, orange aerosol in thought only, of cherries and greenery. What follows nay not be as consequential but enough stuffing and grip to avoid any sort of Novello nebbiolo letdown. Still Ravera, still strong. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2016

A lurker perhaps this Sarmassa, while the wood on this nebbiolo is very up front. The texture is all barrel derived (at this stage) and fruit seems a bit subdued. Cool factor for sure, lean (again, in the present) and not entirely allowing for the joys of ripeness or the representations in concentration to be set free. Dries out and peppers reductively in the end so please, don’t touch this for five years easy. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Voerzio Martini Barolo DOCG 2016

Sumptuous nebbiolo of red berry and orange tinged fruit, quite impressive concentration and a modicum of structure. Love the acidity here and the liquid chalkiness in a La Morra that strikes as being a rendition created through master blending. Quality wine of solid proportioning. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Thick in many ways, concentration for La Morra and also texture for so many layers upon the palate. This is La Serra and its ability, not to mention potential. This time around the pace is slower and the need for admiration is tempered by a better pace. Should drink beautifully in five-plus years. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2014

Anselma Famiglia Barolo Riserva DOCG 2014

Buzzing nebbiolo of wild fruit and an almost co2 effervescence. Not quite but it sure makes you feel like the enzymes are still alive and working. Unusual to be sure. Drink 2020-2022.  Barrel sample tasted January 2020

An aged Barolo here of big extraction, still raging tannin and more than a shake of Brettanomyces. A curiosity more than anything else. Drink 2020. Tasted January 2020.

Franco Conterno Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2014

Good ropey red fruit is met by some Bretty character and mildly earthy beetroot. Quite the earthy Barolo with old-world, old-school charm. Acids and tannins are expected, directed, offer a sense of place (Bussia) and in the end are quite fine. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Giacosa Fratelli Barolo Riserva DOCG 2014

So unusually scented Barolo of evergreen and charred tomato, followed by a brittle and gritty textured palate. Some old-school winemaking and rigidity here. Drink 2021-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Gigi Rosso Barolo Riserva DOCG Arione 2014

Thin and herbal, almost weedy nebbiolo. Advanced into oxidative beginnings, bricking and faintly scented tomato leaf. Not much pleasure left here. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Lo Zoccolaio Barolo Riserva DOCG Ravera 2014

Overripe and over-pressed so that all the hard tannin and astringent notes come through. Simple and tart. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

The Marrone Sisters

Barolo DOCG 2006

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2006

Marrone’s 13.5 year old Pichemej Barolo is heady stuff, unspeakably high-toned and equipped with fierce if drying tannins. No missive here and wholly in charge of your senses. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Alessandria F. Lli Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo 2006

Really quite youthful ’06 from Alesaandria in Verduno with a continuance of strong continence and firm grip still going and even growing. Really the strength is the calling card for all constituent parts through acidity and tannin are the clear winners. Drink soon though food matching is a necessity. Osso Busso and polenta. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006

Settimo’s Rocche ’06 from La Morra is ostensibly full-on tertiary and if surprising it matters little because the porcini and tartufo are quite stunning. That said the ‘98s in my cellar better be consumed ASAP. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Boroli Barolo Cerequio DOCG 2006

Astringent and gritty. Overtly malic has made this nebbiolo brittle and hard to swallow. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

High-toned with the kind of violet purple fruit that makes for a Brezza-Sarmassa-2006 trilogy. More like a triptych because the seamlessness between fruit, acid and tannic parts is quite fortuitous. Precipitous nebbiolo for dinner matching right now. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Cagliero Barolo Ravera DOCG 2006

Lots to delve into with this Ravera and it’s strength for Barolo by Cagliero. Full of energy, drive and bright-eyed salutations. Big wine with lots to give. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Casetta F.lli  Barolo DOCG 2006

An aged Barolo here of big extraction, still raging tannin and more than a shake of Brettanomyces. A curiosity more than anything else. Drink 2020.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Del Monastero Barolo DOCG Riund 2006

Here a La Morra nebbiolo with all of its bones in tact and plenty of flesh hanging on the frame. The fruit persists albeit swathed in chocolatey barrel and the acids are sharp and pointed. Like most ‘06s the tannic structure is strong and supported by no holds barred extraction. This Riund example maintains balance within all these larger than life parameters. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Luisin Barolo DOCG Leon 2006

Certainly showing age at this stage the ooze is in and the melting of all parts are welling up the glass. Still the acids and the tannins take charge. When don’t they from 2006? Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Codero Di Montesemolo Barolo DOCG Monfalletto 2006

Massive aromas, over the top in many ways, nearly suffocating. The palate on the other hand is quite beautiful, high energy and chic. The finish is woody and full of café. A tale of many worlds in this middle-aged nebbiolo, La Morra, Monfalletto, Barolo. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Sorì Ginestra 2006

Notable for the extraction happened 13-plus years ago with a forward notation that the fruit stands the test of pressing time. Really chalky and liquid stylish still so it really can handle the 2006 Monforte truth. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2006

Age puts this ’06 from La Morra on the wane side of nebbiolo life though both acids and drying tannins remain fierce, grippy and in charge. This one packs some serious 13-14 year-old punch. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Something ulterior here from Ettore, mingling, alive, balanced and fine. For one of the first times the three main ideals are in synch, or nearly so. A bit heavy o the wood-induced character but everything knows and seems to fit into its right place. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Principiano Giuseppe Barolo DOCG 2006

Highly aromatic wine of a multitude of savoury elements. Spiced in many ways, east, west and everywhere in between. Sweet fruit persists but clearly submits to the wood, the acids and that masala of spice. Peppery and sharp, so interesting though not quite developed into present tense balance. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG Gattera 2006

Wholly curious aromas emit preserved orange and baking spice from the Gattera in La Morra by Veglio Mauro. There’s almost no frame of reference here but for the heavy hit of acidity and tannin that take over. Tons of complexity and character. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Monchiero F. Lli Barolo DOCG 2006

Completely about face in aromas here from Castiglione Falletto, more evergreen and specifically pine. Very earthy and not forgiving to taste. Perhaps a minor note of TCA. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Simone Scaletta Viticoltore Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro Chirlet 2006

Quite heady and savoury Monforte nebbiolo with so much tannin from early extraction still safely secure in pocket. Quite woody but the dark Chirlet Bricco San Pietro fruit seems to handle the ever-going onslaught. Will do so for another year or two. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG Montanello 2006

Quite high-toned but also earthy with sweet flavours mainly from oak on the palate. Acids are the driving force and all in all the balance is quite good. From Castiglione Falletto. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG San Pietro 2006

Nice little red fruit Monforte nebbiolo that seems to have avoided the ’06 tendency to overdress, extract and stress. And so it is not heavy pressed and while it may miss out on the structure of some big and badass ‘06s at this stage it is nothing but pleasant and joyous San Pietro. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Lovely are apparent Barolo from the section of the Sarmassa cru that brings the lovely. Elegant nebbiolo at 13.5 years old is just this. Red fruit, ripe acids, a touch of volatility and sweet chains of fine-grained tannin. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004

Anselma Barolo Riserva DOCG Adasi 2004

Stink bomb. Sweeter fruit on the palate but the aromatics in earthy merde steal the show. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Barale Flli Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2004

Quite advanced to no surprise or complaint with fruit compliant in age notable extension. More tannin than acidity in this ’04 and in fact the vintage was not nearly as demanding as referenced by the formidable ‘06s in this tasting. This is a lovely retrospective look at 2004 Riserva. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Nice drop at 15 years-old, red fruit intact, not having been asked to do too much. Quite tart and still so very tight but the winding is beginning to allow the winch to go the other way. The uncoiling means good drinking times over the next five years. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Germano Ettore Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2004

Age is showing with great transparency because the volatility and earthy character is really up front. Woolly and swarthy with high level 2004 acids and drying fruit. Juicy enough but up there in the tonal spectrum. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Josetta Saffirio Barolo Riserva DOCG Persiera 2004

Just what the Barolo doctored ordered for 15 year-old Barolo with brightness matched by angst. A real posit tug is in effect between juiciness and structure. The force seems to be winning but the flesh is hanging on. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Aging to be sure but an exotica in aroma that is very special. A Bussia reality that delivers much fantasy 15 years on. Chewy and earthy with violets, roses, tar and fennel. Wild ride and happy to have hopped on. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Vite Colte Barolo Riserva DOCG Essenze 2004

Quite advanced, full of reduced liquor and still tannic at the finish. A bit astringent despite the redemption offered by coolness and florality. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Flying in to Pi-e-mon-te

Nebbiolo Prima is a wine tasting and immersive concern of impossible equal. The twenty-fourth edition took place in Alba during the latter stages of January 2020, the last innocent period of Piemonte’s recent history and the memories ingrained will last a lifetime. How retrospectively insignificant were the stressors incurred through tasting 300 wines blind over three days plus hundreds more with producers at lunches, dinners and visits? How happy, carefree and miles from non-plussed were the journalists, sommeliers and their Albeisa hosts during a week of connectivity and shared motivations? Less than one month later everything had changed.

Marina Marcarino introduces Nebbiolo Prima 2020

Tutto arriva al momento stabilito, “everything comes at its appointed time.” War, peace, pandemic, recovery. Piemonte has been particularly compromised by COVID-19 and it just seems so unfair but the Piedmontese back down from nothing and move ahead no matter the obstacles. The work ethic never tires, nor do fruit and tannin. There are a thousand wine producers who raised estates out of post-war, mezzadrie ashes to put Barbaresco, Roero and Barolo at the forefront of Italian wine. This generation will do the same beginning in 2020. Piemonte does just about everything well and for so many tangible reasons, everything right. The clash of cultures, detailed attention to seductive and gratifying food particularities and impossible to resist, covetable wines from Langhe and Roero origins add up to one of Italy’s finest destinations. Eating and drinking in Piemonte is one of life’s greatest treats and I’ve not yet even mentioned the word nebbiolo. Life and winemaking are all about the pauses, where art resides in the elusive calm between Barbaresco fruit and tannin. 

It had been a most incredible Nebbiolo Prima 2020 week with gratitude and love to the guidance and effort of the the Albeisa organization’s President, Domaine Punset’s Marina Marcarino. Always the first to pioneer, lead, teach and share, Marcarino expressed the pride and the passion of the community of producers that worked tirelessly to create this formidable assembly. Albeisa’s goal is not singularly focused. This event is not simply a matter dedicated to the tasting of wine. Agricultural evolution and wine-producing innovation are a major focus, always with a socio-economic bearing kept in mind. Albeisa’s deans pointed out that there has been a steady decline of the de-classification of grapes and for Barbaresco that has meant a drop from 46 to 23 per cent of bottlers at harvest moving from Barbaresco DOCG and into Langhe Nebbiolo DOC. 

Mauro Buonocore

Trusting Science

Most fascinating was a climate change talk titled I Cambiamenti Climatici NEI Media, given by Mauro Buonocore, head of the Communication and Media Office at CMCC Foundation – Euro-Mediterranean Center on Climate Change. Buonocore began with a challenge to journalists, to report truths, based on science. “Why are journalists and the public interested in such complex scientific problems?’ he asks. This is Mauro’s question, his purpose for studying the subject. “Attention paid to climate change makes sense if we do so in relation to socio-economic systems.” He then wants to know “what is the cost for business in a world in which temperature is changing and extreme events like heavy rains and heat waves taking place?”

The study by Fondazione Centro Euro-Mediterraneo sui Cambiamenti Climatici presents as a focal point for Italy, to “get out of the green ghetto,” insists Buonocore. “Hugging trees is not the only answer.” The starting point is science because science is informative. “It’s a democratic community.” IDCC creates reports by 300 authors, in 20,000 studies, with 100,000 comments. It’s more than enough to satisfy the most skeptical journalist. It’s also a consistently framed initiative that resides at a global level.

Mauro Buonocore, CMCC

2020 Findings

The foundation’s most recent investigations are heavily reporting about extreme weather, a.k.a the new global warming. Climate action is now responsive and mobilizing to act in response to the natural disasters but also losses in biodiversity. Human made environmental tragedies are the single largest crises faced today and more than ever there is a need for collaboration between journalists and scientists. Un”alleanza necessaria, driving scientific research into journalists’ hands, to report on forests, environment and climate change. Wine journalists. The road goes both ways, recoproche risorese, not a one-man band.  The intrigue of this study takes journalists and in turn the public away from the idea about what can be done to combat and make adjustments for climate change to a realm defined by placing trust in scientists and scientific thought. A blind trust perhaps but this is the request.

What to make of Barbaresco DOCG 2017

In subsequent articles I will get to what Barolo and Roero have reached in their recent contributions to nebbiolo but today we begin with Barbaresco. Nearly 60 examples of Barbaresco DOCG 2017 were presented, along with 15 Riserva 2015 and a further dozen or so retrospective 2007s. Communes of origin (Alba, Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso) were joined by Cru examples (Montersino, Rocche Massalupo, Asili, Ovello, Pora, Rabaja’, Rio Sordo, Roccalini, Roncaglie, Ronchi, Montaribaldi, Albesani, Basarin, Canova, Cotta’, Gaia-Principe, Gallina, San Cristoforo, San Guiliano, Bricco San Giuliano, Santo Stefano, Senadaive, Serraboella, Serragrilli, Sorì Paitin Serraboella, Starderi, Bricco di Treiso, Casot, Giacone, Marcarini, Meruzzano, Nervo, Nubiola, Pajore’, Rombone, Valeirano and Vallegrande).

Tasting at #nebbioloprima2020 with the Morris, side by each ~ Day one, 120 in

These odd, curious and at times inspiring 2017s are littered with examples that speak to great variability, lined with pockets of hot and bothered micro-climates but also cool spots in spite of the prevailing terms of the vintage. These Barbaresco are wines of patent freedom and some imbibers may think they want in but may not be equipped to handle the liberties they provide. Still others will unite over the untied and untucked nature of the lot. The highlights are nominally noted by nebbiolo quietude that act as breaths of fresh 2017 air. The Riserva of 2015 are at their best when the spice cupboard is wide open for nebbiolo to act aromatically gregarious, volatile and yet unsettled. The best of 2015 have yet to peek out of the open windows.

The task of tasting 360 nebbiolo blind or not in four days would be unthinkable without the guidance and assistance of a professional Sommelier. What is a Sommelier? A Sommelier is completely invisible, yet always in sight. A Sommelier remembers what wine tasters hate. A Sommelier anticipates the taster’s needs before the needs are needed. A Sommelier is, above all, discreet to a fault. In total here are 92 reviews for Barbaresco nebbiolo tasted in Alba, January 2020.

Barbaresco at Hotel I Castelli, Alba

Barbaresco DOCG 2017 (59 reviews)

  • ***** (denotes the top wines of the vintage)

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeirano 2017

Sweet and saline Treiso nebbiolo, light and bright, lemon to orange. Quit and confident, the silent type that allows its actions to speak louder than its words. Good tang in its textural step and fine tannins will lead to mid-term aging exceptionality. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Adriano Marco E Vittorio DOCG Barbaresco 2017

Plays hard to get from the outset though there’s a prettiness to the lightness of this nebbiolo’s being. Can be tough when it needs to be and so there is potential here. Will need to wait and see just what becomes of this light, underestimated and yet understood Barbaresco. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Adriano Marco & Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2017 ($45.00)

Candied exterior in that the fruit scents are like flowers dipped into a sweetly perfumed liquid that permeates and infiltrated so that everything comes up roses. The palate then dries out a bit so that fruit succumbs to the tannins in the wine. Neive traditional and so plausible. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2017

Tannic and intense. Decent fruit more or less speaks to varietal obviousness and basic understanding. There’s a comfort level in the rustic charm of the tradition found inherent and fomenting in this Montersino nebbiolo. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Albino Rocca Ronchi Barbaresco DOCG 2017 ($75.75)

Once again a menthol note permeates but here from Ronchi in Barbaresco it is met with notable citrus, namely pomegranate, deep blood orange and also a real cherry-ness. Also very spiced, cinnamon and nutmeg, plus a variegation that comes across as much textural as it had aromatic. A serious wine of great integration and potential more than anything as a quotient of its fineness and deep-rooted complexity. Drink 2024-2037.  Tasted January 2020

Alessandro Rivetto Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2017

Ripe and syrupy nebbiolo, simpler than many or even most with fine-grained though negligible tannin. A bit of disconnect between the fruit and the finish, namely because the acidity is not a catalyst or a matchmaker in the Montersino equation. Drink 2021-2023.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa Barbaresco Tettineive DOCG 2017

No cru designate mention (but referred to as Tettineive, “at the head of,” or above the village) and the Neive ubiquity is noted in the swarthy and swarming aromas that speak foremost about ripe fruit. It’s so very raspberry and not so very tannic though the acids are developed and encompassing. Not so complex but a great dinner date companion for the next few years. Drink 2021-2024.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Antichi Poderi Dei Gallina Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2017

Quite bright and very citrus, light blood orange meeting green tannins. Seems like a very cool spot in spite of the ’17 Neive vintage. A tonic injection and a botanical feel make for a unique take on nebbiolo from Gallina. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2017

Very cherry, very glycerin and also light on its aromatic feet. The scents are spiced and varietally obvious as Neive nebbiolo with a sweetness that speaks to the land. Good structure, even sweeter tannins and very apparent that the barrel is a major part of the game. Needs time and also tells us that if you like sweetness from wood then you should clearly stick around. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Now we are onto and into something other, ulterior, extraordinary even. The berry and cherry scents are ripe, effusive and frank. The subtleties speak to the knowledge and the knowing. There’s a restraint and a consummate professionalism in such a Treiso Barbaresco but also an accumulation spurred by precision. The real deal, needing no swagger to solicit no adulation. Drink 2023-2035.  Tasted January 2020

Gran Bollito alla Piemontese, Ristorante Luna, Sinio

Briccogrilli Battaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Slightly over-developed, heading towards oxidative and not far from raisin. Flat, little acidity and no real potential. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Ca’ Del Baio Barbaresco DOCG 2017

If ever a Barbaresco nebbiolo carried an uncanny aroma that is purely reminiscent of liquorice than this would be the one. Fruit quality is impressive and structure supports with a proper frame,. Nothing overtly complex here but overall the game is played quite well. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Ca’ Del Baio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2017

Sweet meets savoury for fruit that needs little introduction. So bloody nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Treiso and seemingly, clearly, obviously Vallegrande. Ripe and grippy tannins take control so maybe try and avoid needing to spend too much time here over the next five years. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

A clear and concise look at Treiso nebbiolo from Barbaresco with tart currant, pomegranate and cherry fruit, tang in pocket and a lovely liquidity. This is the textural one of clarity and precision. Clearly textural, structured and fine. Not overtly tannic and so far from intrusive in terms of what the barrel wants to say. Drink this everyday and for no particular reason. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

You can tell straight off the top that this Barbaresco-Asili nebbiolo is not begging for attention, nor does it care if you get it or not. The fruit wades and treads easily, comfortable, without any real tension. The acids are delicate and fine, real and necessary. The tannins repeat the yoga mantra. This is a sneaky one, seemingly light and uninterested but time will see flesh, bone and serious intention come to the surface and swim with strength deep into the distance. Drink 2023-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Rabajà 2017

A deep inhalant of hillside brush, red citrus and well-ripened fruit are the three-part harmony sung by this Barbaresco. Simplifies a bit once you realize the heavy bass played by the wood takes over and commands a sweetness but also a simplicity in the structural line. Still there is a quality that just aches with the singsong verse of Rabaja’. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2017 ($58.62)

Lovely and complex nebbiolo aromatic profile with crisp bites and red fruit drawn off the right kind of soils for all to take part. One part kind fruit, one part energy building and one part lengthening structure. Adds up to quality Barbaresco and accessibility. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Impressive from go with high-toned, pectin-developed and transparent, glycerin fruit. Really fine lines, bones and structurally sound encroachment into the tough areas only such Barbaresco nebbioli can go. Serious Ovello wine with a long life ahead. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2020
 
Cascina Sarìa Barbaresco DOCG Canova 2017

Quite ripe and developed Neive nebbiolo with an oxidative waft. Will go quickly into the pruned night with so much vanilla by wood in its fading light. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Castello Di Neive Santo Stefano Albesani Barbaresco DOCG 2017 ($51.75)

Fruit is sweet and properly ripened, a touch herbal and tannins take quick stage to cover and draw the curtains. Chewy in a liquorice way and drying though tradition runs like blood through the structure. Solid Neive Barbaresco. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Serragrilli 2017 ($45.00)

Wildly earthy and aromatic Neive nebbiolo from Serragrilli, a touch overdrawn but still sitting on that ledge. Smells like a scorch of sorts and a light char on wild game. Also brings the hematic aromas that only fresh meat, toasty wood and blood orange can gift. Complex specimen here if just a touch ripe into the beyond. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Sweet scented aromas and a chewy textural aspect make this Barbaresco nebbiolo one of the more impressively expressionistic examples. The substance in grain and disposition are clearly developed and designed to create a gregarious and exhibitionist example. So much Rabajà proposition, supposition and expectation await. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Figli Luigi Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2017

Unusually scented Treiso Barbaresco, almost like baking biscuits mingling with cured meats. Quite chalky tannic and earth crusted too. Very nebbiolo, high strung and extended perhaps beyond means but there will be a sweet spot somewhere out there in the mid ages. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Another about face for nebbiolo twists and turns within the variability and variegation found in the Neive Barbaresco from Gallina. Tartness, tang, tannin and even a moment’s tumult make this curious, foreboding and so very interesting. Watch to see where this one goes. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2017

Darker, bloodier and richer than some but also as compared to brethren within the cru. Vallegrande is quite expressive Treiso Barbaresco though this example is clearly driven by the barrel. Vanilla in droves, chocolate not too far behind and tannins thick as thieves. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Icardi Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2017 ($78.00)

Intensely reductive and closed, even for Neive nebbiolo. There too is a pine resinous note and some charred meeting preserved citrus. Curious and yet to open up its charms. Drink 2022-2026.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Pasta heaven in Alba

Il Bricco Barbaresco DOCG Bricco Di Treiso 2017

The mix of cured meats, wood smoke, spice and wet concrete make for a Treiso nebbiolo with so much bloody character that keeps changing with every nose put into the glass. Brings blood orange and bresaola to the mix. What a potpourri, what a design and what a complication. That all said the tannins are not so firm and not so demanding, More wood and texture than anything else. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

La Ganghija Di Enzo Rapalino Barbaresco DOCG 2017

A touch past ripe and syrupy though with complex aromatic notes, namely preserved citrus and gingered chocolate. A gastronomic Treiso Barbaresco in a dessert course kind of vein with notable cask sweetness, spice and strength. Very modern and ambitious. Drink 2022-2026.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

La Ganghija Di Enzo Rapalino Barbaresco DOCG Giacosa 2017

A bit past the centre line for ’17 Treiso ripeness and evergreen amplitude. Also an earthy note, albeit a sweet one that mingles with fruit and tang. Lots of wood, texture and grip. Very chewy and will develop some fun funghi and umami secondary character. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Mainerdo F.Lli Barbaresco DOCG Roccalini 2017

Quite a mentholated sauce and scented nebbiolo, not unlike the Barbaresco of Pora though Roccalini also delivers a multitude of red fruit. It’s berry, plum and citrus all rolled into one. There too is a note that seems uncanny but you can’t quite put your aromatic sensors on it. Chalk it up to memory that will come back one day. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Manera Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Simple and basic nebbiolo with mild acidity and grippy tannin. Proper enough but just not that interesting. Drink 2021-2025.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Masseria Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2017

Extremely high-toned Montersino nebbiolo with a decidedly vinyl shower curtain note. Also some fennel, mountain tea and sweet herbal aspect. Funny wine with a hard candied shell. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Massimo Rivetti Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Very herbal almost in a cough concoction sort of realm and certainly an alcoholic warmth mixed with some mephitic material. Smells like the stable. Not clean. Drink 2020.  Tasted January 2020

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Curious one this nebbiolo, at once a rich and ripe ’17 and on the other hand tight, taut and closed. Somewhat pine verdant and cool with a graphite note. Crunchy acids and plenty of texture make this one gregarious, full and ambitious. Tannins follow suit with grip and energy. Yes, the drive and the energy her are the thing. And the potential. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Molino Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Extreme ripeness and developed cherry fruit that ultimately means simple and straightforward juice. A bit meaty and chewy in a cheaper cut, a bit too quick braised way. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG Montaribaldi 2017

Quite simple, tart, woody and unreflective. Comes across as sweet and overtly intentional. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Musso Di Musso Barbaresco DOCG Rio Sordo 2017

Perfume is off the charts in a Barbaresco nebbiolo that clearly speaks for the land from whence it has come. Fruit quality is ripe, sweet and developed while acids are just as important as tannin for a cru Barbaresco of style and no real overt need to go decades for best pleasure. The results are now and for 10 years max. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Wow the mentholated and graphite noted aromatics are off the charts in this singular Barbaresco. Also tobacco and a fine liquidity that runs through like one substance suspended within another. Should be interesting to see when the two will emulsify and get together as one. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Mustela Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Ostensibly what you’d imagine Treiso Barbaresco to nose without a cru mention and in a wholly modern way. Sweet spice, cured meat and vanilla. Big wine with lots of texture. Drink 2022-2027.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Nada Giuseppe Casot Barbaresco DOCG 2017 ($33.25)

Very right, credible and proper Treiso nebbiolo from Casot here with all the constituent parts in line, one following another and no gaps to speak of. There’s a salve texture that you already knew was coming because the aromas told you so. The texture carries forth with admirable consistency and the elasticity of this Barberesco is right there behind, in support and with en eye towards the eventual conclusion. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Ristorante La Libera, Alba

Negro Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2017

Deeper and more developed for Neive-Gallina and surely from a warm and sunny exposition to take full advantage of the vintage. A bit lean on the other hand and also a touch verdant. This one will travels to all four corners of nebbiolo earth. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Orlando Abrigo Meruzzano Barbaresco DOCG 2017 ($42.95)

Earthy and reductive with the forest and the barn’s floor all over the Treiso aromatic room. Plenty of wood and where this excels is in its cool, silky and pleasurable texture. Needs time, of course it needs time. Success depends, well of course it depends. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2017

Almost negligible in so many ways in that it’s so very hard to get. That said the quietude is a breath of 2017 Neive air because no intrusions have been allowed to get through, neither red, green, overt or unwanted. A simply rendered nebbiolo can be your friend and here the structure is likely sneakier than first, second and third time around imagined. Charming wine from Serraboella. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Pasquale Pelissero Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Quite blood orange, hematic and even ferric nebbiolo form the odd, curious and at times inspiring Neive 2017s. Textural on the outside and linear and lean on the inside, even this example owes to its very own variability. Tannins are a bit grippy and energy comes back and forth, in and out of time and waves. Drink 2021-20327.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG San Giuliano 2017

Developed in many ways, not the least of which is fruit in syrup and dried fruit character. Turns lean and uninteresting with a cool mint and graphite quality on the back end. Drink 2020-2022.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2017

A traditionally accumulated, developed and rendered Treiso nebbiolo to be frank with generous big barrel character and silken ripe 2017 fruit. Big bones and full texture make for a mouthful and one that will take years to find its classic stride. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2017 ($59.95)

Nervo is south facing on famous Treiso blue clay. Just a lovely nose here, sweet scenting, floral and savour-candied. Just a touch of so many things; herbs, creosote, pine, cedar and scorched earth. Vanilla, chocolate and spice. Gone for it all. Drink 2022-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Pietro Rinaldi San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Light to developing in aromas and textures with variegations. Crunchy and chewy at the same time, with a taste profile that encompasses the liquorice, earth and wood spice profile. Lots going on here from San Cristoforo in Neive but in the present not overtly complex. Probably best to wait a year or two ands then drink young. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco 2017 ($50.00)

Wound tight, taut and far from ready to unravel there are layers upon layers of structure in this ’17 Roncaglie-Barbaresco. Crunchy and crusted you will have to exercise great patience before even thinking you can see the light or feel the gentle pull in the elasticity of this wine. Take it slow, take your time and let it flow. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Rattalino Massimo Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Pretty and effusive Barbaresco nebbiolo with notable tannic structure. Quite a mouthful of barrel-influenced spice and tannin. The length is impressive so there is no doubt that this will go far. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Rizzi Barbaresco DOCG Pajoré 2017 ($42.95)

Again this is Pajore’ in its basked light of delicacy, ripe and rising. Understated and yet so cumulative of fruit, acidity and fine tannin. In fact the tannins accumulate with great numbers and in even greater force. This will outlive many of us to die another day. Tour de force is what nebbiolo can be albeit with Treiso subtlety and drive. Drink 2023-2034.  Tasted January 2020

Roberto Sarotto Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2017 ($43.00)

There’s an almost appassimento note to this strange and unusual Neive nebbiolo and also an over-developed fruit feel. Like roll-up, very strawberry and quite overripe. So simple as a result and mired in a pectin-glycerin way. Drink 2020–2021.  Tasted January 2020

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Takes a walk along a wire that supports both a lightness of being as well as some high-tonality to the point of volatility. There is an old-school Barbaresco quality to be sure and a traditional waft that is both obvious and comforting. Clean enough to eat off of though you also knows where its been. Drink 2021-2027.  Tasted January 2020

One of only two Cru Neive Barbaresco made by the family in 2017 because of hail that rained down on Basarin the 25th of April. Lower production on one hand, indelible mark of concentration and focus on the other. Elegant, lightly lifted and breezy with that density of fruit laying low, stowed safely and securely away to rise only as necessary, as the tannins melt, spread out and dissipate. Accented with chromatic prejudice as only a Sottimano nebbiolo will, xanthous, cinnabar, maroon, together imagined as spices that feed the flavours. Liquid berries, cool, fine and finessed. Does Barbaresco get more honest than this? A true window into a cru and snapshot of a vintage. Drink 2021-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Taverna Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Very ripe and organized, developed and heading forward with great haste. Acids are brighter than some so there is light streaking through the Neive vintage darkness. Another example that speaks to the great variability in 2017. Drink 2020-2024.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Tenuta Baràc Barbaresco DOCG Rocche Massalupo 2017

Dark and developed nebbiolo fruit with some serious grip in its tannic step. The wood is a major factor early on and the stuffing is surely there. Needs a few years easy to let things settle and to allow full or even partial integration. Great potential from Rocche Massalupo. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Unusually restrained for a Neive nebbiolo of clear complexity and might. The substantial fruit texture and mineral-alloy impression cannot be ignored, nor can the exquisiteness of the elasticity be denied. So much acumen, passion and planning are clearly meant to make many requests, most notable the one that asks for patience before judgement and ultimately joy plus pleasure accumulated in the decades long exercise. Drink 2023-2035.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Barbaresco DOCG 2016 (2 reviews)

Sottimano Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2016

Basarin in the newest Cru for Sottimano, established in 2014 though the vines are already between 45-50 years old. Released just at the start of 2020 and already displaying a prominence in aromatics that speak to this exceptional nook just below Neive. From a vintage blessed for its place in history matched by a requiem for a dream. Crunchy for nebbiolo surely caused by the policy of classically long Piedmontese maceration, drawing fruit with gentle impunity and long-grained tannins in thrushes and intermingling chains. Pure dark fruit (almost raspberry) and a generous application of wood varnish. Architecture, length and character, all together. Drink 2022-2037.  Tasted January 2020

Taverna Barbaresco DOCG 2016

Comes from one vineyard at the top part of the hill, Gaia Principe it’s called, one of four that make Barbaresco in the MGA (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive). Quick maceration, only seven days, not very Piedmontese and because the house tradition is to make wines to drink and drink now. A very fresh nebbiolo, sweetly perfumed, clear, pure and precise. Drink this most days. No good reason not to. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted February 2020

Marina Marcarino

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2015 (15 reviews)

Briccogrilli Battaglio Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Serragrilli 2015

All about aromatics for this Neive nebbiolo. Candied meets spiced, like a cinnamon lozenge, soothing and yet peppery. Not the most structured affair and thins out as the hard shell cracks, softens, melts and disappears. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020 

Cantina Del Nebbiolo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2015

Set at the highest tone, nearly to 11, with fruit rising along and everything just hanging out on the edge. Drink 2020-2022.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

A bit linear and herbal though there’s some substance hiding in the Barbaresco reeds. Quite closed and yet to open for the world to know and perhaps understand. Seems to shed some light with time in the glass before structure creeps in and up. Definitely wait and return. Better times lay ahead. The transparent and confident fruit will emerge. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Francone Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2015

Now here is a Barbaresco Riserva for an overall consumer platform with ubiquity and pleasure across all fronts. Mildly fruity and with acids meeting tannins that mimic a concept of the same, Unquestionably Neive nebbiolo and without making any demands. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

La Bioca Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Secondine 2015

Aromatically gregarious, volatile and yet unsettled in what is still an unfinished state. So much acidity and wood without respite. Can surely be imagined as the sort of Barbaresco nebbiolo that will suddenly transform and morph into something completely other, brilliant, ethereal even. Drink 2022-2028.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Marchesi Di Barolo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rio Sordo 2015

Here’s a taut, tightly wound and spice-filled aromatic nebbiolo with a soil’s firm intention in solicitation of a wine’s structural intuition. Serious Barbaresco here with bones and elastic flesh. Let it ride. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Tajarin, Osteria dei Sognatori, Alba

Massimo Rivetti Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Cerebella 2015

A cool and almost minty Neive nebbiolo that lies in the nether between transparent and glycerin. Far from reduced or reductive and yet not overly oxidative either, Very middle of the road. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Molino Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ausario 2015

Not merely ripe but nearly over the top, the edge and the precipice towards a falling down the other side. Tries hard and ultimately fattens, flattens into soft tones and sits out of balance. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Casot 2015

Clear and marked upscale notes give this Treiso nebbiolo a true blue Barbaresco feel that can only lead to sensation. Very cherry and great in its soul connection to the way the wine slides gracefully into its structural components. A bit over-heated on the back end with a plethora of wood spice and mild char but it finds its way back to the cool tempered wine it wants and needs to be. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Piazzo Comm. Armando Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Nervo 2015

A ripe Nervo nebbiolo from Treiso on the darker, nearly black cherry spectrum with a clear directive from pressing through extraction and into barrel. Flavours are cough candy and tonic. Really quite botanical in the end. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Prinsi Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Fausoni 2015

Closed in aromatic terms though a sweet-scented baking spices resides in mild fade where the middle meets the background. Cool and taut, not yet ready to play or offer pleasure. Will do so when time gets under its belt. Not an overtly generous 2015 Barbaresco from Neive but clearly a serious one. Drink 2023-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Muncagota 2015

Quality through really earthy fruit that reflects a feeling of beetroot in a chalky tannic Barbaresco nebbiolo. Quite crusted, nearly crusty and some bitters mark the finish. Dry and tannic. Young but the fruit will need to work hard in order to stand the test and onslaught of time. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Wildly aromatic of wild strawberry and sweet bitters liqueur. Highly glycerin and textural with grippy and elastic stretched tannins. A huge Neive Barbaresco with time definitely secure on its side. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Punset Barbaresco Riserva DOCG San Cristoforo 2015

This nebbiolo in the Barbaresco Riserva category goes for broke, pressed to find the fulsome glycerin that is entirely vintage possible. Extracted in tow are volatile and woolly characters with the present tense ability to infiltrate and distract. Time will act as catalyst to link the moving parts and give Neive life to what is at current a dry and tannic finish. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted January 2020

The sense of place is clearly in with a jig of fruit that whispers Martinenga in Barbaresco. Wears a fine-knitted woolly cap and wraps up red fruit in a fine tannic sweater. Well-delineated from a generous vintage with the sort of bone structure and taut flesh that will withstand and bask in comfort through many cold winters. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Masseria’s Alessandro Giordano and Gurvinder Bhatia

Retrospective Barbaresco DOCG 2007 ++ (15 reviews)

Masseria Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2015

From the brothers Giordano, Stefano and Alessandro in San Rocco frazione and only 8,000 bottles produced. Spent 12-18 months in (30 per cent new) barriques and grandi botti. Almost oily rich, certainly luxurious with the blood orange notation. Nicely balanced, thoughtfully pressed and a joy to drink. Proper tannins speak for the site which makes this nebbiolo a representative of place and the youthful presence of its then 10 year-old vines. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2009

Vigneto Nervo is south facing on blue clay in Treiso and here 11 years on this is no longer tense and nervous as it surely once was. Still nervy to be sure and from a big vintage. Generous red fruit with more than many shakes of spice and an almost dried balsamic wooden note. Wholly unique aromatic profile. Must be the compact blue clay we’re smelling. The silky palate texture tells us we’re right in the window. Last tasted at Ristorante Luna in Sinio, January 2020

A tight, saliva-sucking, bone dry, ossified, ferric Nebbiolo. Just two sips and my tongue and gums feel like a lorry has run over them. That and the crimson smell of climbing roses. Classic really.  Tasted September 2013

Adriano Marco E Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Sanadaive 2007 ($26.45)

At 13 this Sendaive nebbiolo out of Alba has put in the work and the time, now quiet and rested. Must have been a raging one in its day because the residual volatility is present albeit rendered and flaccid now. Now all chocolate and vanilla so in other words, wood. Drink 2020.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Rabajà 2007

Quite advanced Rabajà having taken all the steps necessary to travel through the portal into tertiary character. The secondary Barbaresco stage is but a faint glimmer in the rear-view mirror. It’s all milk chocolate wafers and milk now. The late bites are wood spice, not acidity. Drink 2020.  Tasted January 2020

Castello Di Neive Santo Stefano Albesani Barbaresco DOCG 2007 ($44.95)

The fruit has vacated the Neive premises leaving wood, alcohol and mineral smells to keep the nebbiolo faith alive. Was and persists as an earthy soul with old-school and big barrel ideals in all its former glory. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Cortese Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Rabajà 2007 ($46.95)

Advanced and chocolate-filled, red fruit still juicy and thriving, acidity too. Tannins mostly resolved but still holding the fort. Solid Rabajà 2007 from Barbaresco to be sure. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2007

Amazingly characterful Neive-Sorì Paitin Serraboella nebbiolo, with a pronounced note of Brettanomyces mixing with the dried fruit and mineral salts. Would peg it for older than 2007 aromatically speaking but palate wise it still crackles and pulses with life. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Bricco San Giuliano 2007

Quite the quiet, soft and sultry nebbiolo with fruit very much intact. This is a warm 2007 that did not get under the covers and saw a Bricco San Giuliano stay away from overheating. Plenty of chocolate here and lots of life left to live and give. The Neive Pelissero heyday incarnate for Barbaresco and 2007. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Pelissero Barbaresco DOCG Nubiola 2007 ($45.95)

Nubiola out of Treiso is showing some age here with acids still raging and a candied sweetness to the aromas. Not nearly as expressive on the palate but when you think about the vintage and the age it still shines with as much happiness as you’d hope it would. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2007 ($50.00)

Colla’s 2007 Roncaglie saw a great compliment of wood, that much can be true in a 12.5 year later assessment. The fruit and the thrill are gone with the barrel and the cool savour stringing it out. Quite easy, amenable and one of the better food Barbaresco nebbiolo in this 2007 retrospective. So it’s got that going for it, which is nice. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Produttori Dei Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2007 ($41.95)

A wee hint of mephitic reduction is maintained in this earthy, salt of the land nebbiolo from the great Barbaresco cooperative. Still showing its tannic teeth and elevating fruit up along with the high-toned character. The finish is like a Piedmontese chocolate and hazelnut torte. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Punset Barbaresco DOCG 2007 ($55.95)

Wildly aromatic, in a terrific window to check out the progress and clearly a top cru for nebbioplo from Neive in 2007. Which tells us Basarin is always a top cru. All have come to play and join the serious fun; fruit, nuts, wild shrubs and herbs, but also things toasted, charred, roasted and seared. All the while keeping a coolness and a winter savoury character to match the natural and honest personality it just feels so comfortable in display. Drink 2020-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Rizzi Barbaresco DOCG Pajoré 2007

Pajoré from Rizzi is youthful to bely the 12 and a half years it has spent in its vessels. The notes of cherry are joined by a pinot noir like cola in Treiso nebbiolo clothing. Acids are still string and in charge while tannins are the ones to have softened. Spectacular look back in retrospection that I would wish upon everyone to have and enjoy. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Socrè Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2007 ($50.00)

Pretty much what you might and want to expect from 2007 Barbaresco tasted in 2020. High-toned, fruit a mix of fresh and dry, acids in total control. Impressive Roncaglie that leaves a lasting impression. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Punset Barbaresco DOCG Campo Quadro Riserva 2005 ($71.95)

Highly complex Neive Barbaresco from Marina Marcarino’s Campo Quadro with age fully engaged but also on its side. The tones, bones and fleshy substance all show off their balance and their agility. Wise? Sure. Fortuitous? Maybe. Proper? Exactly. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Tenute Cisa Asinari Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Camp Gros 2005 ($104.00)

A bit of a demurred Barbaresco here from Camp Gros and yet the fruit has surely lasted without too much stress or effort. Crunchy and a touch earthy, quite floral and really elegant. Lovely at 14 years-old. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

godello

Flying in to Pi-e-mon-te

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Réva the hand as if by magic

Réva’s is a remarkable Monforte d’Alba property nestled within an ideally situated Langhe amphitheatre, “at the limit of Barolo,” abutting the ridge that separates the potentate appellation’s southern border from Dogliani. Vines of dolcetto, barbera and nebbiolo rest, roost and rule the south-facing hill and a nine-hole links style golf course lays out east to west through the valley. Wooded havens hide deer and wild boar, birds of many ilk fill the naked skies, playgrounds long for children’s playful squeals while Restaurant FRE and its first Michelin Star in 2020 await the return of guests. A Piedmontese farm holiday stay such as this is quietude incarnate, unique, secluded and serene. Wines were made here at one time but growth and ambition make requiem for expansion. A new facility takes shape. Moving north again, at the foot of and below the village of La Morra we come to the cellar in Gallinotto where the wines are now in production. From agriturismo to cantina, Réva the hand as if by magic.

Nebbiolo and Dolcetto at Réva

Réva is a fascinating study of collaboration between five erudite men: Miroslav, Gianluca, Gabriele, Francesco and Daniele. Miro Lekes, owner, native of the Czech Republic and who’s first commercial vintage was 2012. Gianluca Colombo, oenologist, joined in 2010 after working 10 years for the Cordero consultancy in and out of 10-20 estates. Daniele Gaia worked at Elvio Cogno for seven years, leaving in 2016 to join the Réva experience. “If you want to be a protagonist in this world you need to find some space,” insists Gaia and so when he met with Miro and saw the vision for a 10+ year plan he knew his space had been found. Gabriele Adriano is winemaker, Tecnico Presso, formerly with Vajra in Vergne, just up the hill from Barolo. Gabriele joined just ahead of the 2017 harvest. “He’s very precise,” notes Daniele, “Gianluca is the creative one.” Francesco Spadaro joined in September 2018, coming from Viberti and at Réva deals with private customers and orders. “He is the commercial guy.”

We’re on the road to Réva

Farming practices are organic and not just for the vineyards, but also including the golf course and the wine relais grounds. “You don’t drink the certification,” quips Daniele, “you drink the wine.” Growth is quick and to the point because “there are five men working on the same wine. That’s the secret.” Total production at Réva is 65,000 bottles, the current maximum goal. Up to and at times above 10,000 each of dolcetto, nebbiolo, barbera, whites and the classico Barolo are the workhorses for 85-90 per cent of production. The cru Baroli from Ravera, Cannubi and Lazzarito make up the remainder.

Daniele Gaia, on the phone, making deals

“For sure Réva is a unique place in the Barolo area” tells Daniele. I spent a glorious January day with hime at the two properties near Monforte d’Alba. You need to begin tasting the ’16s, ’17s and ’18s because the ’19s in barrel will blow the roof off of the Langhe. Our third stop was for lunch in Alba at ventuno.1 under the culinary auspices of Chefs Alfonso Russo and Francesco Ferrara.

Godello, Chef Francesco Ferrara and Daniele Gaia at ventuno.1 , Alba

Know this. Réva’s are modern, 21st century wines with tremendous new Piemonte drinker’s appeal. They are also seductive to informed and discerning sommeliers because of an innate connection to the past. The notions that arise and astonish us are not because they are new, but because they are the sort that have been so long neglected and overlooked. The nebbiolo in particular are rooted in time tested pragmatism, decades, if not centuries old. They will stand the test, of longevity and time. These are the six wines we tasted.

Réva Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2018, Piedmont, Italy ($34.04)

Taken from San Sebastiano area, vines 15-20 years old in Monforte d’Alba. “We have a special view of the nebbiolo,” tells Daniele Gaia. “In our point of view it has to show the character of the grape, flowers, drinkability and approachable, not a baby Barolo.” And so Réva attacks with a gentle touch, a short and cold maceration to secure nebbiolo kept in a “light” vein, with evident acidity. Carries the youthful “splendore” of beautiful red fruit. A precociousness unhindered, on hinges, in ultra comfortable balance. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Réva Barolo DOCG 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($66.15)

Another highly seasoned nebbiolo of rather dark red fruit and barrel piques that create spikes and valleys in the wine. Hangs on with enough energy to see the acidity match the fruit stride for stride. There’s a sense of structure to see this ’16 last for a decade strong and long. Drinking window will open shortly so the temptation will be to imbibe often and early, thereby fertilizing the narcotic poppy of drinking pleasure. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Réva Barolo DOCG Ravera 2015, Piedmont, Italy ($98.95)

So bright, so thoughtful and so generous. Ravera is the sneaky structured Réva Barolo, of a winemaker’s work that totes the freight of genius. Ravera is wanting nothing from you but gives you everything. A melting pot of Piedmontese nebbiolo, at ease and persistently resurgent. Drink 2021-2033.  Tasted January 2020

Réva Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($251.95)

Réva’s Cannubi is based or is the extension of an idea, initialized in 2012, to have three different expressions in Barolo. The search is for elegance of La Morra or Barolo and the structure of Serralunga or Monforte. The third is a combination and that is found in Ravera. The Cannubi plot was owned by Fratelli Barale, a Cannubi di Cannubi right next to the cemetery of Barolo. It’s still a rented property and will be owned at the end of a 10 year contract. Pure Barolo, close your eyes and this is recognizable as the dictionary entry. Hue as in deep depths of pure red with a streak of light. Palate of acidity and fine tannins with length. Rich without being too strong. Not closed, does not attack your mouth and yet there is grip to keep it moving forward. Really fine tannins and fruitful pleasure. Drink 2022-2032.  Tasted January 2020

2018 Nebbiolo – Barolo DOCG Lazzarito

Réva Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($337.95)

The single-vineyard cru Lazzarito is added in 2016 and it is Daniele Gaia’s first harvest at Réva. Drive the best car and drive it right away. “This is the best wine Réva has never made,“ says Gaia with great irony mixed into humility. Tasted from low temperatures (22-24 degrees) in tank there was fear of Lazzarito’s tannins. Here above Serralunga a long strip on the top of the eastern side of the hill gives a marl-calcaire meets sandy soil and so the best of both structural worlds; freshness (also from high pH) and grip. Yes it’s silly young and impressionable but already handsome, unadorned and fruit so crunchy, yet also sapid, a pinch salty and the impression of acidity is a freshness with thanks to that elevated pH. A sample but already in bottle and will be released in two years. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Three DOCG pillars of Asti: Secco, Dolce, Moscato d’Asti

For a wine region to succeed it must exercise sustainable principles and do so by meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs. Investment argues for three main pillars: economic, environmental, and social, a.k.a. people, planet and profits. In scientific terms sustainability refers to an ecosystem’s ability to exist constantly at a cost within a universe that evolves towards thermodynamic equilibrium within a state of maximum entropy. A modern vernacular would speak of the coexistence between humans and their host biosphere. A transfer of these ideological theories into wine-speak says that in Asti the growers, producers and their appointed Tutela dell’Asti DOCG chaperones have collectively agreed to set the appellative wines of Asti Secco DOCG, Asti Dolce DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG as representative of their present and future. Three pillars of Asti.

“Born in 1932, the Consortium for the Promotion of Asti has a clear mission: to perform all the necessary actions to protect, promote and enhance the value of Asti and Moscato d’Asti, in Italy and the world.” The sustainable manifesto is clear and one day spent inside the offices of the Consortium will instruct and explain all you need to know about economic, social, environmental, export, security and what Italians refer to as disciplinare policies. Regulations regarding vineyard yields, levels of alcohol, sugar, extract and bars of pressure are so defined as to ensure current production and sales viability but also explicitly what the next generation will need to carry the work forward.

Guido Bezzo and the Asti lab crew

The Consortium’s Laboritorio Analisi for the Tutela dell’Asti DOCG is one of the most advanced and technologically impressive anywhere, with the mechanization capable of carrying out a diverse set of analyses. Under the guise of Guido Bezzo, who incidentally also happens to be a virtuoso trumpeter, the lab exerts its expertise far beyond pedestrian testing of alcohol, sugar and varietal purity. It delves deeper than mere organoleptic conclusions. The lab’s research works to investigate the impact analysis results for one 750 mL bottle of Asti wine covering categories that includes a mind-boggling set of parameters: Climate change; Reduction of the ozone layer; Toxicity and carcinogenic effects on humans; Particulate/smog caused by emissions of inorganic substances; Ionizing radiation effects on human inorganic health; Photochemical ozone formation; Acidification; Terrestrial, aquatic and marine eutrophication; Ecotoxicity in freshwater aquatic environments; Soil transformation; Resource depletion in water, minerals and fossils. Heady stuff indeed.

Dinner at Teatro Alfieri, Asti with President of the Consorzio Moscato d’Asti DOCG President Romano Dogliotti

La Caudrina’s Romano Dogliotti is President of the Consorzio dell’Asti DOCG and like so many Langhe winemakers, he is intrinsically tied to tradition but with a decisive openness to new technologies. In line withy many of his compatriots, Dogliotto’s Moscato d’Asti is made by putting yeast and moscato grape must in an autoclave. The must ferments at low temperature in this reinforced fermentation vessel until about half the natural sugar is consumed, then the wine is quickly passed through a micron filter to arrest the fermentation. The result is Moscato d’Asti at five and a half degrees of alcohol by volume and enough residual sweetness to conjure the feeling of eating ripe orchard fruit. In Asti the moscato comes out three ways: Secco, Dolce, Moscato d’Asti.

There are 10,000 hectares of vineyards for these lightly sparkling, off-dry to sweet Asti white wines and the Consorzio is entrusted to promote and protect the wines in the appellation. They are widely imitated and so undertaking legal action and registering trademarks in every country is a necessary side-hustle of the job. In terms of producer requests, all changes and modifications applied for must be approved by the consortium. An integral aspect of the work involves field, vineyard as well as laboratory research.

Teatro Alfieri, Asti

Asti covers parts of 52 communes, three provinces; Asti, Cuneo, Alessandria and three territories; Langhe, Roero and Monferrato. The vineyard landscape of these three famous Piedmontese areas were recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2014, Un territorio Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Sedimentary soils that date back 10-15 million years predominate. One is the Pliocenic basin of Asti to the northeast. The to the west around Canelli there are Serravallian (Middle Miocene) soils, stratified layers of blue clay, sand and lime. Many believe this to be the best composition for Moscato d’Asti. To the east in the area of Strevi the ground is Tortonian (late Miocene), younger at five to 10 million years, with more clay and more lime in deeper layers and colour. 

Laboritorio Analisi for the Tutela dell’Asti DOCG

The crux of the varietal situation is twofold, at once for vineyards subsisting at the foot of the Alps and also drawing energy being proximate to the sea. Seventy-five per cent of the vineyards are directly protected by the mountains. As seemingly everywhere, climate is changing here too. In the last 15 years average temperatures have increased by one degree. In the past 58 years the average increase has been by two. More important are temperature abnormalities. The centrepiece moscato bianco is a very sensitive grape and easily subjected to diseases. A study of 15 experimental vineyards continues to assess the vintages and the shifting climatic effect on the wines.

Agnolotti al tartufo bianco, Ristorante Cascinale Nuovo (Isola d’Asti – http://www.walterferretto.com)

Guyot training is appropriate for poor quality soils and lower yields. Broken down by altitude, 44 per cent of the vineyards are at 250-300m and 30 per cent at 300-450m. In terms of slope, 2,770 of 9,700ha have a gradient higher than 30 per cent, 336 ha with a gradient of more than 50. “Heroic agriculture” is the moniker bestowed. “The Sorì vineyards.” No mechanization is employed and a certain crucial must is picking times, especially in terms of the preservation of moscato bianco’s aromatic compounds.  Yields per hectare are set at 9.5 tonnes for Asti and Moscato d’Asti, the approximate price at 1.1 Euro.

With Andrea Costa, Vini Marenco

The 60,000 tonnes kept at negative four degrees in summer costs dearly in equipment and energy. It is widely believed that juice can stay in tank for up to two years without losing aromatic concentration. Fermentation takes place at 20 degrees in pressure tanks developed by Italian sparkling wine pioneer Dr. Federico Martinotti, director of the Research Institute for the Wine of Asti, who patented the method in 1895. Martinotti is credited with creating the method of developing the bubbles inside of tanks. The juice can stand pressures of more than 10 bars. Yeasts must be stopped abruptly (in a matter of a few hours) to avoid off odours and flavours, i.e rotten egg and cooked cabbage. Centrifuge and filters are used. In the past pasteurization at 50 degrees was the norm but now micro filtration screens out the yeast (at 0.2 microns) and stabilizes the wines. Agronomist/viticuilturalist Daniele Eberle also explains how Fratelli Gancia used the same techniques that the French used here in Piemonte in the late 1800s. The city of Canelli, cultural home of Asti holds the highest concentration of companies that make all the equipment necessary for bottling Spumante wines.

Étretat – Claude Monet, Palazzo Mazzetti

These are the disciplinare for the three appellation wines:

  • Asti Dolce DOCG: 6-7 per cent alcohol by volume, 90-100 g/L residual sugar and Sparkling at maximum 4-5 bars of pressure
  • Moscato d’Asti DOCG: Minimum 4.5 up to 6.5 per cent alcohol by volume, 120-130 g/L residual sugar and Sparkling at maximum 2.5 bars of pressure 
  • Asti Secco DOCG: Minimum 11.0 per cent alcohol by volume, 17 g/L residual sugar and Sparkling at 3-3.5 maximum bars of pressure

Massive thanks to Mariana Nedic, Marina Nedic, Ana Murguia and the staff at IEEM Communications. Looking back at December travels and work assignments in Italy I now find myself focusing in on the new and forward thinking Moscato d’Asti stories in the heart of Piemonte. Tough wines to produce but these traditional producers have to do it. It Is their heritage, imperative and pleasure. At the Consorzio dell’Asti in Isola d’Asti the steps and stages of Asti’s gently sparkling wines gave way to a blind tasting of the following seven. 

Blind Tasting

Duchessa Lia Asti Secco DOCG Santo Stefano Belbo, Piedmont, Italy

Lime and a soapy entry but on the drier side, likely Asti Secco. Feels like 15 g/L of sugar with gentle and supportive acidity. Somewhere between peach and pear, clean and perhaps too much so. Certainly a fine mousse and persistence. A new style from which the aromatics are diminished and yet the gain in versatility in this case indicates one done well. Does well to avoid the potential of bitters marking the finish. Alcohol is at 11.0 per cent and sugars could be as high as 17 g/L though this seems lower in the 10-12 range. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Acquesi Asti Dolce DOCG, Piedmont, Italy ($13.95)

Asti Dolce for sure, crazy sweet and reminiscent of a lime creamsicle. Aromatic but not overtly so, all controlled by the sugars and so very cloying. Exceptionally foamy, creamed and whipped in mousse. Perfectly suited to flavour a zabaglione to work alongside hazelnuts baked into a soft, crumbly cake. Alcohol at 7.0 per cent and sugars at 90-100 g/L. Drink 2019.  Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Gancia Asti Secco DOCG Cuvée Asti 24 Messi Método Classico 2012, Piedmont, Italy

A wine that owes to the experience of Carlo Gancia in Canelli. Wildly aromatic, a Langhe experiential moment straight away conceived and delivered. A Piedmontese traditional method bubble that is clearly more complex than kin simplicities. Bottle fermented and made from grapes harvested in 2012. Recently disgorged so at least six years on the lees technically Asti Dolce but really no affinity because the secondary and even tertiary aromas are in. Baking scents and oxidative meets caramelized notes are part of the mix, as is this ginger-orange créme brûlée with a healthy compliment of torched sugar flavours. A complex mess of aromatics, next level texture and most of all, multi-developed levels and layers of sweetness. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Bèra Moscato d’ Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy ($29.30)

Now into Moscato d’Asti with the most classic presentation, aromatically effusive, effective, generous and free. The sweetness in such a moscato is so very stone fruit based and subjected to a perfectly ripe squeeze of more than one citrus. Lemon, lime and orange without forgetting the smells of their blossoms. Quite correct and more so, leaving an impression that is not soon left for dust. From fruit grown in Meviglie at the limit of Neive. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti DOCG Nivole 2018, Piedmont, Italy (650440, $9.75, 375ml)

Waxy, aerosol citrus and perhaps a year older with prevalent if weighty acids that settle this Moscato d’Asti into a secondary period. Both aromatics and freshness are diminished though so seem the sugars so the balance is still well-afforded. Ultimately a perfect example of the ripe peach scents so expected from Moscato d’Asti. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Mongioia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Crivella 2016, Piedmont, Italy

Quite toasty and though no wood was used it shows a remarkably semi-oxidative and lightly caramelized character that brings colour, cooked apple and creamy nectarine mousse. It has certainly come to a more interesting and charming place with just a moment’s liquorice and this white fig flavour. Worth some fun and giggles with persistent acids. Fruit from steep vineyards in Santo Stefano Belbo in the province of Cuneo at the border of Asti. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted blind at the Asti DOCG consortium, December 2019

Mongioia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Crivella 2003, Piedmont, Italy

Quite the advanced Moscato d’Asti here at the edge of tumbling down from the Sorì. Oxidative and fully caramelized notes, with preserved lemon, torched orange and candied ginger. The sugars are accentuated as a result of the diminishing acidity. Still a joyous showing for a 16 year-old moscato. Fruit from steep vineyards in Santo Stefano Belbo in the province of Cuneo at the border of Asti. Drink 2019.  Tasted December 2019

Tasting next door to Monet

After the Masterclass and blind tasting we transferred to Asti and convened in Palazzo Mazzetti for a walk-around with the producers in the company of a small but exquisite exhibit, “Monet e gli Impressionisti.” These winemakers are finding new success by making use of advanced technologies, higher altitudes, specific soils and identifiable crus. These are the Moscato d’Asti I tasted and the world may know they are to be reckoned with.

Azienda Agricola Cerino Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

A curious and interesting moscato this one, fresh enough and so very basil herbal, then white flowers and lime. A touch refined in white sweetness, also tart, long and elastic. Unique and quite fine. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Azienda Agricola Gallo Cascina Cabonaldo Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

Located in Montabone, halfway between Canelli (to the west) and Acqui Terme (to the southeast). The vineyards at 320m help strengthen the haughty aromatics, even while this moscato acts pale and sallow though clearly fresh, clean and seemingly simple. Nothing wrong with that in fact this is one of the easiest feats of drinking amenability. Direct, correct and highly effective. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Lorenzo Gozzelino and Silviana Ignat

Azienda Agricola Gozzelino Sergio Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Righteous, energetic, ripe and frantic moscato is exemplary as such because it enlivens the heart and enlightens the mind. Big, bouncy, bountiful and welling with blossom aromatics leading to rich, striking, full flavour. Lemon and apricot develop a marmalade of unction, glycerin and natural texture. This fruit from Gozzelino’s vineyards is top notch. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Gozzelino Moscato Passito DOC Piemonte 2012, Piedmont, Italy

Following the manual picking of withered Moscato grapes in November they are pressed and put in refrigerated vats under controlled fermentation. In dessert wine terms for moscato in Piedmont this is the truth, spirited and flashy. Pineapple with an adage of savour in pencil lead and sage of a texture in silken layers. Brazil Nuts are all over the finish as a nougat or an ulterior marzipan. Textbook stuff. Drink 2019-2027.  Tasted December 2019

Azienda Agricola Scagliola Giacomo E Figlio Moscato d’Asti DOCG Sifasol 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Located in Canelli here’s a sweetly viscous moscato very lime-driven from calcareous terroir. High quality acidity off the sorì (top portion) from south-facing vines 70 years of age. High level scents of orange blossom, apricot and sage, so typical of Canelli. Really balanced moscato in every respect. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Azienda Agricola Terrabianca Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

Azienda Agricola Terrabianca di Alpiste Federico e Andrea is located in Mango at 520-550m, one of the highest points in the Langhe and not far from Castagnole. This for moscato is surely something other, something curious, sweetly magical. Hard not to love a glass. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted December 2019

Azienda Agricola Terrabianca Moscato d’Asti Vignot DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

Terrabianca’s Vignot cru moscato is from Canelli off a south exposure for vines of 65 years-old. One of the richest Moscato d’Asti wines you will ever indulge in the fine, smooth and feathery way of lemon curd, but also paraffin waxy and spiked by a limoncello spirit. Zested, striking, maximizing varietal and stylistic enjoyment. Clearly a cut above and so very singular. Drink 2019-2024.  Tasted December 2019

Ristorante Cascinale Nuovo (Isola d’Asti – http://www.walterferretto.com)

Azienda Agricola Terrabianca Moscato d’Asti Vignot DOCG 2012, Piedmont, Italy

A rare opportunity to taste the possibilities in aged Moscato d’Asti, here from Terrabianca’s south-facing Vignot cru in Canelli off of vines of 65 years of age. Vines that soak up maximum sun, not just to promote an oriented sweet richesse but also the ability to age. Now having developed honey and the early stages of petrol and persistent tonal depth. Spurts of lemon are the near-term projection with a real smoulder on the vaporous horizon. Really smart stuff in a world of similitude occupied by the likes of riesling and sémillon. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted December 2019

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Moscato d’Asti DOCG Paiè 2018, Piedmont, Italy

From the hills of Alto Monferrato in and about turn of face with 100 per cent of the moscato grapes subjected to a passito methodology of drying for a few months before turning into sparkling wine. Finishes at 5.5 per cent alcohol and 150 g/L of residual sugar. “It is a new way of showing Moscato d’Asti,” tells the spokesperson on behalf of the choir for 100 members. There can be no argument there. Royally sweet and unequivocally in hyperbole of all the aromatic and fruit concentrated aspects of the Md’A style. Truly haughty and heightened in caricature respect. Is it too much? Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Cantina Tre Secoli Moscato D’asti DOCG 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Located in Canelli Tre Secoli’s moscato is so correct. Combines the full frontal aromatic attack with an easing into back end creaminess and big orange citrus flavour. Perfectly ripe and intentional mild sparkling wine with moments occupied by lemon, lime curd and apricot marmalade. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Coppo 1892 Moscato d’Asti DOCG Moncalvina “Canelli” 2018, Piedmont, Italy ($23.20 – Estimate)

“Moscato loves altitude as compared to barbera,” tells Luigi Coppo, “and now is the time to think about Moscato d’Asti.” Luigi says it’s a serious wine because it’s difficult to make. No sugars are added or carbonization performed and it’s a vintage wine. These are the three tenets that matter most. From Canelli vineyards between 200-280m and the classicism of construct and effect is pure magic in proper and precise, sleight of hand ability. That’s what it needs to be, no more, no less. Naturally sweet, a pinch of salt and all the orchard fruit; apple, pear, lemon and orange. All together in balance and gift with tannin on a real dry finish. Drink 2019-2023.  Tasted December 2019

Fontanafredda Asti DOCG 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Intense and sharp, mildly herbal and heavy into the citrus to contrast and compliment the heavy sweetness. Some finishing bitters add a feeling of complexity. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Tartufo Bianco, Ristorante Cascinale Nuovo (Isola d’Asti – http://www.walterferretto.com)

Fontanafredda Moscato d’Asti DOCG Le Fronde 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Here lies Moscato d’Asti at the furthest edge of sweetness and creamy consistency. After the pleasant aromas of peaches and crème frâiche come the stirring moments of a dull anxiety. That feeling of imbalance marks the finish. Drink 2019.  Tasted December 2019

Gianni Doglia Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy ($20.00 – Estimate)

The 25th anniversary bottling that combs all the moscato vineyards on the estate though truth be told they all produce quite different wines. “Gianni’s dream was to produce the best moscato ever,” tells sister Paola. The clarity and clean, clean living is evident and with thanks to upstart acidity to balance the sugars. A soil-driven expression of moscato for a fresh and crunchy result. Peaches meet white balsamic for some genuine complexity. Eight to ten bottlings are made each year from wine that sits suspended at one degree in juice format inside steel tanks. At this time of year there is no danger of fermentation. A wine of 5.0 per cent alcohol. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Gianni Doglia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Casa di Bianca 2018, Piedmont, Italy ($20.00 – Estimate)

A single-vineyard moscato from 35 year-old vines and the plot Gianni’s grandfather just knew grew the best vines and so Gianni first decided to separate it from the pack in 2012. And so this particular moscato sees eight or nine months on the lees and finds a next level of complexity for the stylistic and the tradition. Gives a yeasty note on top of green apple, melon, orange blossom and fine herbs. The acidity is greater and so energy is exercised in perpetual motion. The alcohol result is just slightly higher at 5.5 per cent. A wine completely unique in this world that may just deliver some petrol and paraffin with a few years time. Drink 2019-2023.  Tasted December 2019

Marenco Moscato d’Asti DOCG Strev 2018, Piedmont, Italy

From Strevi in the province of Alessandria equidistant from both Alba and Asti to form a correct isosceles. Strev is the moscato work of Andrea Costa, winemaker Patrizia Marenco and team. Several vineyards in the area are suited to aromatic varieties because of soil composition (white clay, marl and limestone) off of cooler hillsides at 300-320m. Most important is the diurnal shift between day and night temperature. This is the epitome of aromatic preservation on the lemon-lime-orange freshness scale with good acids and next level goodness. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted December 2019

Andrea Costa and Laura Kaminsky, Vini Marenco

Marenco Moscato d’Asti DOCG Scarpona 2016, Piedmont, Italy

Andrea Costa has a boyish grin and wink in his eye when he delivers this three year-old moscato into my glass and for good reason. This is the revolution in moscato d’asti, the one made so bloody intriguing surely due to innovation projects both in the vineyards and cellar. There’s an affinity here with Collio friulano and sauvignon, namely because of the elasticity and surely the transferrable aromas, in a marine-mountain sandwich effect or what we expect from typical Moscato d’Asti. Moves through passion fruit and mineral-flinty-elemental strikes, so much so the sugars are forgotten. Smouldering, so curious and of more depth than many. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Matteo Soria Moscato d’Asti DOCG Soria 2019, Piedmont, Italy ($16.00 – Estimate)

Bottled last week, barely moved in, likely not yet settled into its new digs. Made up of 75 per cent 2019 (as per appellation rule) plus a mix of the three previous vintages. Crisp, cleaner and waxier than the ’16 with sharper acidity and leaner flavours. Heavily aromatic and even a bit herbal but just so linear, searing and lightning quick in reflex motion. That said the ripeness is just a tad short of ideal and so Matteo seems to have gone straight to freshness and intensity. It was the correct choice with a little help from the last three vintage friends. All about finding more aromas. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti DOCG Nivole 2019, Piedmont, Italy (650440, $9.75, 375ml)

Waxy, aerosol citrus and perhaps a year older with prevalent if weighty acids that settle this Moscato d’Asti into a secondary period. Both aromatics and freshness are diminished though so seem the sugars so the balance is still well-afforded. Ultimately a perfect example of the ripe peach scents so expected from Moscato d’Asti. Drink 2019-2021.  Tasted December 2019

Tenuta Langasco Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

Very accomplished moscato from Langasco out of Madonna di Como in the hills surrounding the city of Alba. As aromatic as should be, could be, would be or might ever be desired. You can’t miss the blossoms, peach and citrus, then juiced for maximum effect. The parts are all arranged one, two, three together. Very special. Drink 2019-2022.  Tasted December 2019

Viticoltori Associati Vinchio E Vaglio Serra Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2019, Piedmont, Italy

A perfectly reasoned and seasoned Moscato d’Asti, blossoms blooming and varietally profiled through their aromatic presence. Very lemon and honeyed as if by Passito but the concentration goers it natural and alone. Clean, caressing and just lovely. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

With the Martini Boys

Viticoltori Associati Vinchio E Vaglio Serra Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2018, Piedmont, Italy

Persistently stable, crunchy and crisp moscato from the great cooperative, high in acids and big, brilliant flavours. Grand squeeze of lime juice and has lost nary an aromatic or textural step due to an extra year in bottle, in fact the freshness is on pare if not trying to edge past and exceed the newer 2019. Really fine 2018. Drink 2019-2020.  Tasted December 2019

Good to go!

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