Tag Archives: Long Island

The Wine Diaries: A generous year

PHOTO: STILLKOST/FOTOLIA.COM

as seen on canada.com

When it comes to wine, the year 2012 was extremely kind and in so many ways. There are some who cringe at the term “generous” when employed in a tasting note to describe a particular wine. To me, there may not be a better word to wax dreamily and demurely about the year that was. The grapes were in fact generous in 2012, bursting better than ever with ripe, rich fruit, their ferment having flowed and poured freely at the hands of so many great people. Wine helped to fill the voids and soothed in times of stress, as if there were not a care in the world.

Wine events continued to proliferate. VINTAGES ramped up tasting opportunities, the importers shared lavishly and with munificent grace. There were mass assemblies of producers who came to share their wares from California, South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Italy, Austria, the list goes on. A Halpern portfolio tasting was stellar and Stem Wine Group’s gala brought me to my knees. A relentless trafficking of the grape persists, especially by the likes of Profile Wine Group’s Mark Coster who’s omnipotence seemed to find him pouring everywhere. Dinners with fellow geeks threw complementarity caution to the wind while the affair with my wine card at Barque Smokehouse continued its wanderlust.

Tasting through local portfolios and young juice in barrel with winemakers and vineyard representatives really highlighted the year. Norm Hardie and Dan Sullivan showed me what Prince Edward County is and will surely be. Paul Pender twice ran me through his promising casks at Tawse. Vintners in Long Island opened my eyes to the future of its two forks. I am looking forward to tasting around the world in 2013.

Never before have I been privy to a sound as buzzing as our local wine scene. Social media exploded in 2012, especially on the topic of Ontario wine. The elevated level of discourse and discussion became palpable and necessary. The Wine Council of Ontario opened MyWineShop, an initiative aimed at transforming the landscape of wine sold in Ontario. The current harvest looks to be of the ‘best ever” variety. VQA Ontario wrote “conditions were close to perfect going into harvest,” then followed up with “harvest reports on grape quality were excellent for all regions.”

I liken 2012 to 1998. This vintage will see Ontario to wines of stunning fruit quality, acidity, balance and finesse to match what we continue to experience from the exceptional ’98’s, including reds. The 1998 Henry of Pelham Cabernet/Merlot I tasted last winter can testify to this. “You’ve come a long way baby,” I will say to our local, vinous heroes. Ignore the naysayers and keep on the path of the Rockafellar Skank. Just as in 1998, the “funk soul brother” is on your side.

Of the most profound pleasure and fortuitous circumstance is the opportunity I am given to imbibe and to share of other’s treasures.

These are the best wines I tasted in 2012:

The Wine Diaries: 2012

Château Pichon Baron Longueville, Paulliac 1988 (March)This PBL is throwing rocks tonight. I am dazzled by its youth. Purity, clarity, vitality. Embodies Cclaret’s dictionary entry. Opened in the heart of its window. While ’89 and ’90 continue to hog that era’s spotlight, here lies reason number one to endorse ’88.  The turkey of the triple flight.  95  

Corimbo 1 2009 (April) is sweet thistle pie. A cracker jack Tempranillo and nothing but Tempranillo. Candy coated with red licorice and an inexplicable apple flower sensation as if molecular gastronomy of the Ferran Adrià or Heston Blumenthal kind. Exotic and spicy, seeing through me, it “knows my name but calls me ginger.”   95

Tawse Chardonnay David’s 2011 (March) coruscates like the glare of a Koon sculpture, lambient and luminous. Searing tang of citrus and green apple. A crime to show so well, Zen in its persistence and long finish. This vintage and this vineyard may unseat Robyn.  93-95 (barrel sample)

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Madonna Del Piano 2006 (October) is sacred Sangiovese, an inviolable reliquary of immaculacy deep beneath Montalcino’s altar. A vamp of essential Tuscan fruit. If you were to stand on a hill in Montalcino in winter time and listen carefully, you would hear a low sipping sound. That is the sound of the entire town drinking of the Madonna Del Piano.  97

Château Fonroque St. Emilion Grand Cru 2000 (September) unseats Talbot as the non pareil Bordeaux coalescence of value and longevity from that vintage. Resolute to immaculate balance, black fruit steadfast against crumbling tannins and yet I can see this pushing on for 10 or more. “You like drinking ghosts,” says JM. Yes I do, yes I do.  93

Mas Doix Salanques 2006 (April) is a revelation. A Pegau-esque perfume aux gasseuse leans Rhône but an amazing (65%) Garnacha sweetness veers Priorat. Iodine (Syrah and Carignan) of black slate soil, tar, smoked meat and bacon. A Parker and Galloni thesaurus of descriptors must be bequeathed on this candied (Merlot) wine loaded with acidity in magnums.  CVR** WOTN.  93

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1998 (April) would be my wine of choice walking a boulder strewn vineyard on a misty morning in the Southern Rhône. Expressions are hurled around the table, “candified Pinot nose” and “tutti frutti.” For Beaucastel? I can’t believe the tripartite fruit freshness, ambient funk immersion and pencil lead sharpness. This ’98 is ”light as a feather, heavy as lead.” The Beaucastel will brighten up your tomorrow. WOTN  96

Château Léoville-Las Cases Saint Julien 1996 (March)Utopian, foxy, rubicund health. Voluptuous tomato, classy and luxurious on every level. Unabashed, showing off unblemished, curvy fruit. Pellucid, transparent, honest. A player, even if the highest caste keeps the dark LLC down. The sixth major.  94

Domaine Henri Perrot-Minot Morey-St.-Denis En La Rue De Vergy 1996 (March) The dark knight of the three red Burgundies. Smells like merde at first, a pumpkin left to compost long after the hallow night is done. A few swirls and the funk blows away, leaving behind a smashing MSD. Oracular utterances are in the air now. ”Lazer beam of acidity” says AM, “Pinot on a frozen rope” says I.  93

Castellare Di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolo 1997  (May) of Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT origins and the fountain of youth. How can it be so fresh? 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia. The Sangiovese clone, also known as Sangiovese Piccolo is here a sweet and beautiful elixir. Polished deep purple Amethyst dipped in smokey, black raspberry water. No hard lines, void of animale and free from Tuscan iron. “No matter what we get out of this, i know, i know we’ll never forget.” Better with the cheese course to come.  93

Good to go!

Two forks and New York corks

Palmer Vineyards

The Atlantic coast is flush with dramatic terrain. I have marveled at the Gaspésie, Prince Edward Island, Maine, Cape Breton and Cape Cod. Who can discount the beauty of Chesapeake Bay, Kiawah Island and Myrtle Beach. What confounds is that from Newfoundland to South Florida, one spit of land is not only hospitable, but outright conducive to growing grapes. Risking an avocational hazard of overestimating interest in the topic, in case you hadn’t heard, eastern Long Island produces great wine.

Oysters – South Fork Kitchen

With no disrespect to the manicured Hampton vineyards of the South Fork, it’s the stellar whites and reds of the North Fork that are turning heads. While invisible to most of the planet, they are well-known to the island’s cognoscenti, in Manhattan restaurants and across the boroughs. Locavinous, locavore Bruce Bushel of South Fork Kitchen is a champion of the industry. His Bridgehampton restaurant features seven domestic table wines on tap. An additional five sparkling, nine white, four rosé and five reds are available by the glass. There are a further 37 by the bottle. That’s commitment. I tasted through a few that paired beautifully with oysters and crispy Sardines.

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Clovis Point Vineyard

Clovis Point Vineyards, Jamesport, North Fork

Somewhere around 10,000 years ago there lived a group of Paleolithic Native Americans known as the Clovis people. Their spear tips were found on the land where this 11-year old winery farms and fashions less than 2,000 annual cases of garagiste Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Managing partner Hal Ginsburg arranged for me to meet manager Kelly Bruer for a revelatory tasting of Clovis Point’s portfolio.

Clovis Point Tasting Barn

Bruer is as close to a native son as you will find on the North Fork of Long Island. He began his immersion life as a teenager on a journey for all things wine. He is at one with this spit of land measuring less than six miles between Long Island Sound and Peconic Bay, speaking more of micro-climatology than he does of terroir. Vines here must survive and thrive in sand and gravel soil (if you can call it that), where organic matter comes at a premium. Ocean waters and breezes work their saline ways into the wines, more obvious of note in whites. What is imbued to reds is a fascinating calm that neutralizes harsh varnish lines, resulting in beautifully balanced Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This is the North Fork’s somewhereness, something Niagara reds strive towards with hopeful and exponentially maturing vines, yet still remain in search of.

Clovis Point Chardonnay

Chardonnay 2011 ($18) like vegetable consommé gets a floral lift from the smallest amount of Gewurztraminer. Think summer corn, linden/basswood/sumac blossoms and chamomile. Stainless steel fermenting allows the Sound’s airy salinity to breeze away. Early evening summer shadows in a glass.  87

Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008 ($25) is aged for 10 months in French oak barrels. Energy and lively current passes through its white-hot incandescence. Accretes past Obsidian flint to a melon patch of flavours and fades dispassionately into a cultured end. Chardonnay for oozing cheese.  89

Merlot 2005 ($21) shares French and Hungarian oak with 19% essential Cabernet Franc in mendicant adulation ça vaut le détour. Cotton to the successful notion of Merlot’s North Fork planting and in turn, chemical certainty as to the outcome of its composition. Pins ’05 as the jumping off point for historical success. Better than the Peconic Bay, with longer lasting ever red fruit, twang and sandy spice.   88

Vintner’s Select Merlot 2006 ($35) will force North Fork disbelievers to eat crow. French oak adds smokey barbacoa, devil’s tea, espresso and bittersweet chocolate notes. Gamey yet resolved, Merlot of a quiet avarice, confident, self-assured.  89

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($27.50) nearly goes it alone at 96% Cab. Sauv. capacity and it shows. Cedar and burning, luminescent charcoal smother ruby, red fruit. Time will tell the story of greatness lying in wait due to the heat and dry conditions of the vintage.   87

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($27.50) incorporates 15% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Inaugural vintage hie to success. Salty sea drafts work their way into the crimson fruit, accented by Left Bank smoke and tobacco leaf. Beginner’s luck or oracle to the future? It matters not. Could drink this quotidianly.  88

Cabernet Franc 2008 ($27.50) is outright cerulean in blueberry and Clintonia. Caliginous and mysterious Cab. Franc, like nothing that has come before. Sea air at work once again, sifting with chalky sand, gravel and dulcet espresso. No Loire, no Niagara signal here. Pure North Fork.  91

Archaeology 2007 ($60) the flagship, Merlot based, proprietary blend is not a “Meritage,” insists Bruer, wink, wink, say no more. Laser focused like a Paleolithic spearhead, acidity and tannin are OTT. Sly and muscular, you have to wrestle to exhaustion to uncover a Bordeaux-like belle epoque.  90

Palmer Vineyards

Palmer Vineyards, Aquebogue, North Fork

Considering that the 1961 Palmer is one of the legendary wines of the universe, naming your Long Island winery  as same might seem a bit surreptitious. If your name happens to be Robert Palmer, then all is forgiven. His eponymous vineyard is one of Long Island’s oldest with a wine rep cemented in good standing. In 2006 Miguel Martin was hired as winemaker and the rest is, history.

Martin is a native of Madrid, Spain and has worked around the globe, in his homeland at Gonzalez Byass, in California for Robert Mondavi and in Australia with Yalumba. Family man (three daughters) and Paella master (he promises we’ll cook together next visit), Martin too is obsessed with weather more than soil. While he shares a North Fork ardency for Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, he also has a vision to experiment with European varietals like Albarino and Muscat. I ask him about Tempranillo. He notes that reds out here struggle to achieve maximum ripeness so the great grape of Spain is just not in the cards. Martin guided me through wines from tank, barrel and at the winery’s tasting bar.

Martin is a native of Madrid, Spain and has worked around the globe, in his homeland at Gonzalez Byass, in California for Robert Mondavi and in Australia with Yalumba. Family man (three daughters) and Paella master (he promises we’ll cook together next visit), Martin too is obsessed with weather more than soil. While he shares a North Fork ardent loyalty for Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, he also has a vision to experiment with European varietals like Albarino and Muscat. I ask him about Tempranillo. He notes that reds out here struggle to achieve maximum ripeness so the great grape of Spain is just not in the cards. Martin guided me through wines from tank, barrel and at the winery’s tasting bar.

Pinot Blanc 2011 ($20) is typically round but also intriguing with notes of cashew, white strawberry and vanilla cream. Leesy, pear notes join chalk, biscuit and buff. Lieb may be North Fork’s PB darling but Palmer is simply irresistible.  88

Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($20) is uniquely vegetal and green, at once reminiscent of more famous cousins in Sancerre and Marlborough and then again, not. SB purposely picked early, indicating crab apple, gooseberry, sea grass and akin to a savoury tisane of lemongrass, orange peel and chamomile.  87

Chardonnay Reserve 2010 ($19) is more serious than expected. A Harbor Hill, mineral moraine backbone avers intellectual senescence and wisdom, not unlike Paul Pender’s Quarry Road. Caramel and cream make an appearance but after that it’s all citrus and zest.  89

Albarino 2011 ($25, 500 mL) is the most vivid and sterling white in the portfolio. Rinds of all kinds, Seville orange, grapefruit, lemon and lime join forces with tropically tart punch and white Sangria. Crazy acidity and length.   90

Merlot 2010 ($22) sees four weeks of skin contact for Syrah like, deep colour intensity. You’re a Julia, “a horn section you resemble and your figure makes me tremble.” Absent of reductive aromas out of barrel, this Palmer will be approachable direct from bottle next season. East coast Merlot, there’s the rub. “Julia, you’re a danger, just like giving sweets to stranger.”  89

Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($25) is a robust, earthy, muddy cup of morning coffee alongside rye and wheat germ toast smothered with bumble berry confiture. Another intensified red. Who knew? A bit over-leathered so look to pair with a simmered animal bone reduction and red meat.  87

Cabernet Franc 2010 ($29) wins me over. Cab Franc is the artist of the wine world. Never loved enough, bitter, green, work always unfinished. Martin coaxes the most from the unrequited grape and I’d sneak through the alley with Sally for a sip or two. Licorice, black currant, pine. Bring on the duck confit.  92

Good to go!

Lobster rolls and a Long Island dream

Paddle Boarding in Sag Pond, Accabonac Harbor

From Riverhead to Montauk, Jamesport to Southampton, the eastern edge of Long Island is a land of reverie. Imagine the fertile plateau of the Niagara Peninsula, the rugged beauty of Muskoka and the serenity of Prince Edward Island rolled into one magnificent package. A burgeoning wine route complimented by rolling farmland full of summer crops. Abounding tide pools, ponds, lakes, bays and rivers dominating the landscape, swarming with life. Secluded coves, inlets, marshes of scraggly grass and rushes around every turn at the end of long and winding country roads. “Don’t it feel like something from a dream.” I really like this place.

Georgica Pond Blue Crab

As a foil to the frenetic pace of Manhattan, the eastern island presents as a modal, perfect, progressive and passive area of unlimited exploration. An effortless paddle by long board or kayak through Sag Pond. Baiting, netting and steaming the fresh catch of Blue Crabs out of Georgica Pond. Filling oneself with the ocean’s bounty and tasting through North Fork’s future stars wines.

Clam Bar

Lobster maintains its status at the gastronomic epicentre of the east coast. Clams are everywhere, crabs too. The quintessential lunch snack is the Lobster Roll. Made from the simplest preparation, the fresh pulled meat is crammed to overflowing in its whitest of soft bread, hot dog like roll. A deliquescent treat without parallel.

Lobster Roll and Fried Clams

Long Island Lobster Roll

Ingredients:

1 and 1/2 lb lobster
2 soft, white “lobster” rolls (hot dog rolls will work)

Homemade Mayonnaise:
1 tsp Dijon mustard
juice of one lemon
1/2 cup vegetable oil

4 ribs of celery, finely diced
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

Method:

Add 6 cups of water to a large stock pot, fit with a colander. Bring to a boil, than lower to simmer.

Put in lobster and steam for eight minutes. Remove and cool.

Make the mayo. Mix Dijon with lemon juice. Slowly drizzle oil while whisking until fully emulsified. Chop celery into fine dice and mix in to mayo. Add parsley. Season with salt & pepper.

Crack and remove all lobster meat. Roughly chop the large pieces and stir into mayo.

Scoop lobster mixture into two buttery, soft, white rolls.

Raphael North Fork Riesling 2010 ($18) makes yeoman’s work is its second vintage, more dry than off-dry, less grapefruit than one would expect and certainly high on the citrus zest scale. Works lobster, crab and shrimp   in blue-collar fashion and speaks in a gravelly, Peconic voice.  87

Galliuccio Family Wineries Meritage 2001 when bottled may have simply been working on a dream but this “library” wine was a near revelatory, posthumous Surprise, Surprise. Now owned by Macari Vineyards, the ’01 Galluccio Merlot with supporting cast let it’s unguarded love shine down with elegant, blueberry fruit and resolved red peppercorn spice. A historical look at what ’04, ’07, ’10 would become and what will surely be in North Fork’s future.  90

Peconic Bay Merlot 2005 ($21) pencils liquorice in a shade of candied, Sonoma Pinot-like matte against a salty Atlantic backdrop. Light, airy, breezy and pleasing Merlot. Void of resin, currant and bell pepper. Strawberries in cream actually. Nothing earth shattering here, just good and plenty.  87

Good to go!

Affordable August Long Weekend Wines

Napeague Walking Dunes

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From the exploration of the Walking Dunes on Long Island to a look ahead at the August civic holiday long weekend, wine persists as the imperative of investigation. Vines are like the barren landscape’s phantom forest of forever shifting powder, speaking of a specific idea, a philosophy, a métier. A forest of pitch pine and oak is buried over by wind driven, walking sands. Truth be told, the pursuit of wine is made possible by ever evolving vines, each unique to its local sense of place.

I go wining like the Montauketts and Bonackers who once worked these fruitful waters. I rake the releases and wine stores to unearth gems like the crabs and clams crawling in Montauk’s living waters.

The dry summer is creating a challenge to crops but the teeming ocean swells alive. Lobster, Fluke, Blue Fish, Scallops and especially crabs are abundant and well-priced. Look for these under $20 values to enliven your long weekend meals.

Soft Shell Crab, Fluke and Delmonico Sirloin

The grape: Pinot Gris

The history: Alsatian at heart, PG is laying down roots all over the New World

The lowdown: Arguably the finest Kiwi version I’ve found, especially at this price

The food match: Steamed Mussels in white wine, shallot, fennel and tarragon

Spinyback Pinot Gris 2010 (214569, $16.95) of sexy flesh and bone has got a lot going on for the IVR*. River walks through Maori gardens of “ginger, lemon, indigo, coriander stem and rose of hay.” Biting chalky, mineral and pear, finding the river and swimming with Notacanthus sexspinis.  89

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Lack of oak in Chablis makes for mineral-driven wines

The lowdown: Quality is rarely high at the under $20 (non-Cru) level. This could be your Wonderwall

The food match: Steamed and Grilled Soft-Shell Crab with lime aioli

Domaine Des Malandes Chablis 2010 (111658, $18.95) is a crisp, fresh, floral and tropical oasis of quality in a sea of mediocrity. The citron pressé, “back beat, the word was on the street” Malandes is endowed of high complexity and complement.  88

The grape: Fiano

The history: Ancient varietal from southern Italy

The lowdown: The unheralded whites of the Campania are one of the wine world’s undiscovered treasures

The food match: Grilled Calamari with garlic, olive oil, lemon, capers and parsley

Terre Dora Fiano di Avellino 2010 (120048, $18.95) is always good company and accompanies warm water seafood with pairing ease. Juicy, bursting citrus and tropical, tree-fruit flavours. This Fiano of one of Terre Dora’s three terrific, single-varietal whites (along with the Greco and Falanghina). This Fiano can knock on my door anytime.  89

The grape: Syrah

The history: Noble, dark as night varietal from the Northern Rhône

The lowdown: Languedoc Syrah tends to need support from Grenache and Mourvedre but this one emulates the northern style, in a top vintage and for a song

The food match: Crispy Pork Belly and parsnip pureé

Domaine Les Yeuses Les Épices Syrah 2009 (177584, $13.95) is certainly more north than south with its smokey, cured beef and pork perambulations. Depth to raise thoughts of Septaguanarian Hermitage vines of twist and gnarl. A touch of burnt rubber and varnish but all in all a heap of Syrah for under $14.  87

The grape: Garnacha

The history: Big, juicy red of French and Iberian fame

The lowdown: Under $15 Calatayud Garnacha has become a consistent go to value

The food match: Ground Sirloin Burgers with Mahon Cheese

Filón Garnacha 2010 (280602, $14.95) is actually a bit of a misprision because of its black fruit character. Re-enacts Tuscan IGT and the most modern of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Tar, asphalt, bitter chocolate and sanguine Kirsch and very, very ripe fruit. Grand oak and tons of wine at $15.  88

The grape: Zinfandel

The history: Primate-like cousin to Primitivo from Italy and before that, Yugoslavia

The lowdown: Dry Creek Valley does this varietal like no other; sweet and dry.

The food match: Dry Rub, St. Louis Style Side Ribs

Pedroncelli Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel 2009 (463026, $22.95) is so toothsome and bruising you may want to eat it with a fork. A sickly sweet moment is rescued by the DCV terroir. This 15.2% abv elixir of crushed and blended berries is a single-vineyard beauty that begs a question. Why pay $50 for top-tier Zinfandel when you can go Pedroncelli?  89

The Splurge

The grapes: Grenache and Syrah

The history: Storied producer of more than 200 years located near the famous Dentelles de Montmirail

The lowdown: The best Grapillon since 2001

The food match: Grilled Delmonico Sirloin Steak with cherry tomato, avocado and black beans salsa

Domaine Du Grapillon D’or Gigondas 2010 (981787, $28.95) of inky, jet black pitch is bombastic and confidently announces itself of full extraction. Blueberry compote, macerated cherries, roasted and bleeding elk all come to the visceral mind. Sweet, viscous liquor with acidity and viscous tannin. Needs 10 years or several oxygenated hours to settle in.  91