Montecucco vineyards
Mountain wine, territorial identity, sangiovese at the heart of quality, revelatory discoveries, sustainability and a Silver anniversary
If your presence was requested for a few mid-November days to take in the vineyards and forests on the sub-steppes and aboard the slopes of Tuscany’s Monte Amiata, how might you choose to respond? Could you be of sound mind to resist an invitation to visit wine estates at the behest of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco and taste their wines? How about a Monday morning solo horizontal tasting in the consortium’s digs with a chance to assess 30 multifarious and diverse iterations of Montecucco Vermentino DOC, Montecucco Rosso DOC, the Montecucco Riserva DOC and Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG? Perchance to follow that up three months later for more visits with producers in February of 2025, along with a dinner at the consortium offices accompanied by 15 local winemakers and Castel del Piano’s most famous Lasagne? The answer to all these questions would have to be an emphatic yes and Godello most certainly made the wise choice of travelling twice in four months to experience the wonders of Montecucco.
Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco
In 2025, the Consortium for the Protection of Montecucco DOC and DOCG Wines has begun to celebrate a Silver anniversary – 25 years since its foundation. “A quarter of a century dedicated to the enhancement of an authentic territory suited to viticulture, which today can finally celebrate significant growth after complex years marked by climate challenges and difficulties related to the pandemic.” The 25th launched with a February presentation of the denomination’s wines at the “L’Altra Toscana” event held at Palazzo degli Affari, in Florence. The Consortium announced that the previous year closed with a 41 percent increase in grapes delivered to the cellar compared to the previous year – from 12,682 quintals in 2023 to 17,924 in 2024. Bottled wine recorded a plus-10 percent increase with 5,500 hectolitres in the DOC and DOCG categories, equivalent to just over 720,000 (750 mL) bottles, as well as a few thousand in other formats. “At last a year that lets us catch our breath after a series of complicated seasons and that fills us with satisfaction and optimism for the future of our denomination,” commented Giovan Battista Basile, President of the Consortium for the Protection of Montecucco Wines. “Growth data confirm the value of our territory and the production choices of our companies, increasingly oriented towards quality and sustainability.”
Godello tasting at the offices of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco
The survey
A 2024 Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco survey was conducted among member wineries “to certify, in addition to production and certification data, various other aspects and elements linked to the activities of the area’s wineries, in order to provide the most detailed and extensive overview of the status quo of the denomination and promote its growth and development.” Taking into consideration the total production of the Montecucco DOC and DOCG appellations, the sample represented 76 percent of (member) and 79 (non-member) companies, not to mention including the largest companies in the area holding most of the production and bottled quotas. In other words producers in possession of the greatest sales and market presence. The results collected were therefore able to provide an extremely accurate general picture of the state of health and trends of the denomination. The most important and essential talking points of the study concerned the areas of sustainability, strengthening of domestic and foreign markets, wine tourism and a focus on new market trends. The ultimate take-away? Montecucco looks to the future without losing sight of its territorial identity.
Varietal plantings of Montecucco
Sustainability is today’s wine buzzword and yet the concept is so specifically personal for any wine denomination that uses it as a vehicle for promotion of its activities. The Montecucco survey showed that the share of certified organic production among the sample companies stands at 95 percent for the DOC and 91.5 for the DOCG. These are more than significant numbers, even for a region of relatively small size. They express leadership and commitment – but also community. Just three years prior many companies were still in the process of conversion and so the word growth can be added to the list of positive superlatives that can be attached to the Montecucco name. The territory’s “green DNA” becomes synonymous with innovative agronomic practices, the protection of nature, including the biodiversity found in cultivated lands and its forests. Agriculture is defined by the ampelography of the area, composed of 61 percent sangiovese, (11) vermentino and the remaining percentage coming from international vines, including (7) merlot. Native vines have seen increased plantings in recent years, lead by ciliegiolo now with a five percent share. Montecucco is rising to meet current challenges with a look expanding allowable vineyard space at higher (Monte Amiata) elevations. “In light of the conditions linked to climate change, of an extension of the production territory to the entire administrative area of the mountain municipalities, with the aim of increasing the altitude of the denomination’s land.” Diversity is further noted in the raising of cattle and farming of non-wine related crops.
Castello ColleMassari Church of St. Peter and St. Anthony
The information and regulations
- The Montecucco territory in southwestern Tuscany’s Grosseto Province is located between the hills overlooking Monte Amiata and on the other the Maremma valleys. To the south is Morellino di Scansano and across the Ombrone River there is Montalcino. The region shares a small amount of vineyard hectarage with Maremma which primarily lies to the west in the direction of the Tuscan coast. Montecucco vineyards are found in three distinct areas: To the north on the flats by the Ombrone, up on a plateau with Cinigiano at its heart and in the east up on the foothills of Monte Amiata.
- Montecucco’s 300 working hectares are comprised of seven municipalities; Cinigiano, Castel del Piano, Seggiano, Civitella Paganico, Campagnatico, Arcidosso and Roccalbegna. Within these comuni the recent survey’s analysis showed 243.39 hectares with the potential to produce wines that can be labeled Montecucco DOC (of both Rosso and Vermentino), while 197.42 hectares hold the potential for the production of Monteccucco Sangiovese DOCG.
- Montecucco DOC was awarded in 1998. The Montecucco Rosso DOC must be made with a minimum 60 percent of sangiovese. The minimum alcohol levels are 13 percent for Montecucco Rosso DOC and 13.5 for Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC. Montecucco Rosso DOC must age Until September 1st following the harvest, including 12 months in wood while for Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC the minimum is 24 months, inclusive of a minimum 12 months in wood and six in bottle. There are now 170 hectares of Montecucco Rosso DOC. Montecucco Rosato DOC is based on 60 percent or more of ciliegiolo and/or sangiovese.
- Sangiovese was separated from the Rosso and awarded its own DOCG in 2011. The Monteccucco Sangiovese DOCG must be made with a minimum 90 percent sangiovese, reach 13 percent alcohol by volume and be aged until November 1st of the third year following the harvest, with at least 12 months in barrel. A Monteccucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG must be aged for 30 months, including two years in wood, six months in bottle and reach a 13.5 percent alcohol. There are now 180 hectares of Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG, accounting for 61 percent of total vineyard plantings.
- Montecucco Vermentino DOC must contain a minimum of 40 percent vermentino grapes and the DOC has rapidly become the region’s most important white wine. The other principal grapes planted and blended in are trebbiano toscano, grechetto and malvasia. The recent survey’s analysis also showed 32.76 hectares with the potential to produce wines that can be labeled Montecucco Vermentino DOC. The variety accounts for 11 percent of total vineyard plantings.
- In terms of sub-zones and geographic mentions, bottles can be labeled with any of the seven communes and 18 frazioni
- In 2024 and early 2025 the sangiovese at the Montecucco DOCG level appearing on the markets are 2021s, though 2020 is current for the Rosso and Rosso Riserva blends. In other words the DOCG wines are readied earlier than the DOC blends. The DOC and DOCG appellations account for 65.5 percent of all bottled Montecucco wines. No wineries trade in bulk wine.
The first trip in November was an awakening, a chance to experience revelatory discoveries for a southern Tuscan territory poised and ready at the precipice of soon to arrive next levels of attention and success. The return in February was the paragon to seek deeper meaning into the wine and people with the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco. There were walks through old vines, chances to taste age-worthy wines, chats with passionate producers and the hidden discovery of Tuscany’s best kept secret lasagne. All in the presence and looming awe of Monte Amiata. There are many people and producers to thank for organizing and facilitating exceptional November 2024 and February 2025 itineraries over the course of those two excursions to the Montecucco area. In particular Consorzio President Giovan Battista Basile, Carlotta Faenzi, Valentina Fraccascia and the many producers who hosted visits and attended dinners. In total there were 90 wines tasted. These are the reviews.
Montecucco Consorzio tasting
Montecucco Vermentino DOC
ColleMassari Montecucco Vermentino DOC Irisse 2023
Irisse as in “faith,” and a vermentino from the most important vineyards right at the winery where the winds blow in hardest from the Tyrrhenian coast. Also grechetto, fermented separately, both in wood and kept that way for up to nine months. The serious, Bordeaux-styled white for Collemassari, save for the unique bedfellow match. In Umbria you would never see grechetto blended this way and yet the experiment that started in 2005 has worked out very well. Irisse is actually dedicated to Claudio Tipa’s sister, Maria-Iris, a big fan of this style of white wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Parmoleto Montecucco Vermentino DOC 2023
A vermentino from the area of Castel del Piano with a zesty citrus aerosol airiness about it. Also some wild plants, fennel at first and then thyme. Serious dry extract and also tannic presence from a white wine you’d expect to be easy drinking. It can be but it’s also set up to change, transform and age into something more. Reminds of Marche verdicchio in some ways and then it’s just vermentino all by itself. The length is more than impressive. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Vermentino DOC 2023
Fermented in stainless steel and aged five months, the cleanest lees giving this a Chablis feeling and that is the heart of the matter because vermentino can be challenging in Tuscany. Here the solids in the tank bring the fresh yogurt and ricotta note that mixes so well with the freshness and succulence of the wine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025
ColleMassari Montecucco Vermentino DOC Irisse 2022
Of 85 percent vermentino with (15) grechetto and the only local producer to make such a blend. Grown at Poggio Sasso upwards of 300m and aged in ionly stainless steel. Spice and smoulder on the nose, fruit in simpatico and gliding easily across to express over all corners of the palate. Delicate, balanced and lengthy vintage, finishing with utmost richness and roundness. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Pierini E Brugi Montecucco Vermentino DOC Lillatrino 2022
From Campagnatico in the western reaches of Montecucco and a vermentino showing some evolution with an extra year in bottle. Clearly ripened to the max and what prevails is this mature example of the variety. Still some crunch but that is starting to to melt and molt into a chewy texture. Phenolic as well which speaks to the ripening and well-pressed style. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2024
ColleMassari Montecucco Vermentino DOC Irisse 2021
Named after Claudio Tipa’s sister Maria-Isse for a unique Montecucco of oldest vines vermentino blended with 15 percent grechetto. First made in 2006 and this from a vintage to remember because all of Tuscany experienced an Easter frost followed by a scorching hot summer. Lower yield and a much more concentrated wine as compared to what will follow with ’22 and ’23. More phenolic and grippy, less delicate and of sapid force. Ready to drink. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted at Prowein, March 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Vermentino DOC 2014
Dio mio, man, you might think you have riesling in the glass. Marco says it takes the vermentino approximately five to six years to arrive at the secondary petrol moment but here at 10-plus the result is exponentially fascinating. Mineral times 10, still crispy, croccante on the palate and herbal-botanical at the finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
With Caterina Sincini, Carlotta Faenzi and Valentina Fraccascia
Montecucco Rosato DOC
ColleMassari Montecucco Rosato DOC Gróttolo 2023
Same grape make-up as the Rigoleto and also vineyard that is, of sangiovese, montepulciano and ciliegiolo. Smart use of plants lower down with higher acids, those that would not have the perfect skins and also some that would otherwise be removed (to de discarded) in a green harvest. Maximum two hours of skin contact and the lightest pressing for a Rosato of fruity meets salty connectivity. Now making 25,000 bottles per year for a wine that started as 5,000 annually. Very good, easy drinking and seriously proper with a salty finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Rosato Montecucco DOC 2023
Made with sangiovese, an easy vintage and also a wine for nothing but a glou-glou experience. Still the sapidity in spite of what is ostensibly the simplest act of expression. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
Dinner tasting of Montecucco wines
Montecucco Rosso DOC
ColleMassari Montecucco Rosso DOC Rigoleto 2022
Rigoleto is a tributary of a river that is a tributary of the Ombrone River. A “torrente,” as they say. Based on sangiovese with 15 percent each ciliegiolo and montepulciano. The former variety was here when the families purchased in 2002 and the latter went in shortly thereafter. Bright red and dusty fruit, an “on the border” type of Montecucco Rosso, edge of Maremma typology but like an island in between for the broader denomination and its wines rising up to 300m onto the Amiata. Inimitable ColleMassari feels, comfortably mid-range with only steel aging and that knowable home cooking sort of feel. Just seems like this is a spot on and correct representative of the 2022 vintage, especially for the area of Cinigiano. That being said this 2022 will live longer than most. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted at Prowein March 2024 and twice in Montecucco, November 2024
Salustri Montecucco Rosso DOC Marleo Vino Biologico 2022
Aromatic richness more than many Montecucco Rosso, a mix of red fruit skins and roses, musky and dusty before the balsamico takes over. That brush-savoury quality is certainly not unexpected considering the warm Cinigiano location where the evergreens grow. Tart with thickening chalky texture and a similar bitter mineral finish, subtle and long. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2024
Sassetti-Livio Montecucco Rosso DOC La Querciolina Lorenzo Sassetti 2022
From Cinigiano in the Maremma-Montecucco from a Montalcino producer looking to make a fresher and easier drinking red as a compliment to their Rosso di Montalcino. The choice was to use only ciliegiolo, not sangiovese and just stainless steel used to keep things uncomplicated for easy to market access. Ripe, phenolic, clean and fresh, with some corporeal quality though not particularly pulpy or fleshy. Highest quantity of any wine in the family’s portfolio at 100,000 bottles on average per year. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Amantis Montecucco Rosso DOC Birbanera 2020
Amantis, from the oenologist team of Drs. Paolo and son Jacopo Vagaggini near the village of Castel del Piano at the foot of Mount Amiata. This is sangiovese with up to 10 percent of canaiolo and all you have to do is take one nose and one sip to understand the levels of quality and understanding put into this bottle. A finely finessed and focused Montecucco Rosso – No more questions needed to be asked. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Brunetto Montecucco Rosso DOC Montenero 2020
Made with 90 percent sangiovese and (10) ciliegiolo with less tannins and structure than many, “and with this wine I want to obtain a drinkability and the right balance, but also freshness,” insists Stefano Brunetto. “My business card wine.” Ticks all those boxes. Goals achieved. “I like when the bottles are finished.” Finishes as a note that is quite ferrous, attributing to these soils at the base of Monte Amiata. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025
Vineyard in Montenero
Brunetto Montecucco Rosso DOC Montenero 2019
A meander of sangiovese volatility cruises through this Rosso, nothing edgy or distracting but definitely there in the linings. Not so much on the demure aromas but more so swirled into the glycerol palate. A sangiovese that reflects Monte Amiata’s higher slopes where grapes conflagrate and regale in high elevation style. Brunetto’s does not actually denote the producer on the front label and so the decision puts Montecucco (the place) and Montenero (also the place) up front and centre while Stefano’s surname sits idly by. A curious decision which could be construed as an identity crisis but more to the point as something ahead of its time because elevation is sexy, Montenero speaks to that and Montecucco is the current matter. Stefano Brunetto’s Rosso is a wave on a rising tide to float all boats. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024
Le Pianore Montecucco Rosso DOC Tiniatus 2019
From the area of Cinigiano to the northwest of Monte Amiata in what is surely the heart of the Montecucco DOC. A well adjusted, very ripe and now fully settled Rosso that has shed its baby fat and tannic presence. There seems to be a common thread of acidity running through the wines of this commune, Rosso that include ColleMassari and Pianirossi. Pianore’s is built by more straightforward red fruit, snaps quite citrus zesty and remains uncomplicated. A solid dictionary example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Palmoletino Montecucco Rosso DOC Scarafone 2019
Vines are in vineyards of 35 and 10 years of age along the Orcia River in the lower part of the Montecucco and Cinigiano commune catchment areas. Feels like a throwback to another era in the Montecucco world with a warm and mature Rosso balanced by the truth of acidity that only sangiovese can provide. The additional cabernet sauvignon grapes are not forgotten but they are the background ambience and echoes. Low-lying, settled and easy drinking Rosso. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Poderi Borselli Montecucco Rosso DOC Marracone Biologico 2019
Marracone is the Montecucco Rosso of Davide Borselli’s Poderi Borselli out of Castel del Piano on the northern slope of Monte Amiata. An organic wine at elevation that climbs to its frescezza heights with open air, arms and heart. Aromatically effusive, playfully volatile and coursing plasmic because the slightly diluted sanguine liquid of stretched elastic glycerol run freely through the veins of this glou-gou wine. Credible and frankly incredible with a sense of place, fine acidity and an unencumbered sangiovese soul. The kind of Montecucco you want to drink before even thinking about considering some of the richer, deeper, darker and increasingly wooded wines. Showing with exceptional freshness and grace for a 2019. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso DOC 2019
A DOC Rosso for Montecucco though sangiovese is at 90 percent, accented by (10) cabernet sauvignon. Warmth begets more warmth, from aromas to mouthfeel and earthy accents. Grounded and just when you think it might muddle in the mire there are piques of freshness peaking through. Seems wholly typical for the Rosso as a red of heritage and locality. The cabernet serves to soften the overall feeling and the wine drinks easily if also with generosity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Marco Salustri
Salustri Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Grotte Rosse 2019
First of all the vintage is simply tops for Montecucco and especially sangiovese. In the case of Salustri the fruit and floral aromatics climb up, over and off the proverbial charts while the aging style in old botti really places this where old-school, mellowed and calm sangiovese like to live. Inches into confiture yet with complexities throughout and so the interest level is high. As is the length of this sangiovese specialty. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2024
Le Pianore Montecucco Rosso DOC Tiniatus 2018
Organic since 1999, also biodynamic since 2017. The blend is 70 percent sangiovese and (30) merlot, one-third aged in tonneaux. The freshness comes from elevation at 550m and “Tiniatus” is the old Latin name for Monte Amiata. Closyre is Nomacorc made with sugar cane. “I grew up with the stuff,” quips Filippo Micillo. Last tasted in Montecucco, November 2024
This organic sangiovese from Le Pianore hails from Montecucco and the house also produces in Maremma on the Tuscan coast. If 2017 was tight and careful of avoiding dried out fruit it is this 2018 that acts so opposite in its embrace of a glorious vintage. The fruit is more developed, riper but also phenolically speaking and built with equal high energy acidity. More substantial volume and weight from the red fruit merges into the incremental structure built into this wine. Surely a high quality example of what is possible in Montecucco. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted November 2020
Tenuta Pianirossi Montecucco Rosso DOC Sidus 2017
Second of two Pianirossi Montecucco, a Rosso DOC because the blend is 60 percent sangiovese with (40) montepulciano, curiously only indicated on the back label. The intention, tells Caterina Sincini, is to make a lighter and easier drinking Rosso, but this is from 2017, a hot and dry vintage with no rain. Required a stringent selection of grapes from the Cinigiano area. The result is a warm Rosso with deeper plummy fruit and high acidity for juxtaposed conditioning that well represents the house style. Tart, meaningful and surprisingly more than ample frescezza though some changes in the winemaking could really effect new vitality and elevate this to become top tier Montecucco Rosso DOC. Still impressive, especially tasted side by side with La Fonte ’19 and then a second time opposite 2021. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Palmoletino Montecucco Rosso DOC Scarafone 2016
Indicative of vintage but also time because 2016 is far more open and expressive that that of 2019. The latter is soft enough but somewhat quiet and the former so vibrant and exclamatory of its fruit. Definitive for the appellation and clearly the kind of Rosso (as sangiovese inclusive of 10 percent cabernet sauvignon) Marco would want to make. A truly correct Rosso to classify place and pace within that place. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Palmoletino Montecucco Rosso DOC Scarafone 2015
Certainly a warmer and more mature vintage as compared to 2016 but the acidity captured is special and so there is this red citrus aspect in pomegranate and red currant to make the vintage stand out as a sangiovese (with 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon) individual. My this reminds of a Castelnuovo Berardenga Chianti Classico. Reminiscent of Castell’In Villa. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Palmoletino Montecucco Rosso DOC Scarafone 2010
Truly another era in Montecucco sangiovese that might just conjure connections and memories, to other appellations and places you’ve been. Acidity still rages though now in complete control of emotions. Sweetness in the aromas, childlike and carefree, without a care in the world. The Balsamico is less savoury then from the Montecucco wines made up in the higher hills and there is a cool, chocolate mint feel to the second half of this wine. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
Cacti in the area of Cinigiano
Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC
ColleMassari Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC ColleMassari 2020
Sangiovese at 80 percent with (10 each) ciliegiolo and cabernet sauvignon. In this vintage you can really feel the cab’s strength which serves to increase the notes of balsamico, specifically “planta silvestre” or “fiore selvatico,” a.k.a. wildflowers. From the area at Cinigiano, west and just a degree or two north as the vineyards are oriented in relation to Monte Amiata. A sangiovese blend that denotes the Macchia Mediterranea as much as if not more than most. Of mirto and conifers, pine more than any other evergreen and all the herba selvatica you can imagine. A strong presence of the land with chalky tannins underneath the submissive fruit and in the end a wholly unique Riserva experience for Montecucco Rosso. Needs another year to settle down and relieve the pressure from a hot vintage that added hyperbole to this island of a wine. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, November 2024
ColleMassari Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC ColleMassari 2019
Called the “black sheep” by the ColleMassari team because of its make-up with 10 percent each ciliegiolo and montepulciano lending spirit and spice to the sangiovese. Conceived in 1999 and first labeled in 2000, raised in Slavonian Botti for a wild and subtly woollen Rosso that has now hit its intended stride. After 18 years of childhood experience the 2019 is an adult now, on its head and shoulders in the pursuit of happiness. The vintage is in fact an ideal one to grow up and prepare for the 20s. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at Prowein, March 2024
Tenuta L’Impostino Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC Impostino 2019
Tenuta L’Impostino’s is an organic sangiovese with smaller amounts of merlot, syrah and petit verdot aged 18 months in Botte (Grandi) and six further in bottle. Not atypical for Montecucco, especially in Riserva and 2019 is the most common vintage available in 2024. Impostino is the località within the commune of Civitella Paganico, west-centre for Montecucco and northwest of the Amiata slopes. The sangiovese dominates which is a positive and the “other” varieties smooth and press this into a neatly ironed Rosso. Full and weighty, acids sweet and helpful, a good and solid Riserva though it’s more “made” than some others which respectfully abide by there specific sense of place. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Pierini e Brugi Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC Sugherettaio 2018
The location is Campagnatico, western Montecucco area, lower elevation and closest to the sea. Wild and woolly sangiovese with smaller parts of merlot and cabernet sauvignon aged in Slavonain oak casks. Old school here with notable volatility and minor, though far from egregious quotient of Brettanomyces. Just feels like a wine from another era with compatriots in Montalcino but also a place like the Rhône Valley. Tannic as you know what with a slight brittle quality because of the microbial presence. Those who love this way of making slightly wild red wine will take in all of what Pierini e Brugi’s Rosso is willing to give. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Brunetto Montecucco Rosso DOC Montenero 2016
First vintage for Stefano Brunetto and self-professed to be a time when he really did not yet know about the soils and climate of Montecucco. Especially after coming from La Maccioche in Montalcino because so many things are different. Quite advanced by now, also musty, showing the volatility that Brunetto is able to tame going forward, especially when he begins to hit his winemaking stride in 2019. The flavours are porcini broth, truffle and yet still there is a verticality of the day. Tasted February 2025
Palmoletino Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC Scarafone 2016
The Montecucco Rosso work of Erika Dotti in the area of Cinigiano and truthfully like no other because of this kind of controlled enthusiasm. Not a wild red blend but surely unencumbered, free-range and untethered to constraints of rule. Natural as they come and nearly clean – though not perfectly so. Nor does it want to be and as a 2016 the staying power is surely impressive for how long it persists. Not just lasted but holding strong. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Vines are in vineyards of 35 and 10 years of age along the Orcia River in the lower part of the Montecucco and Cinigiano commune catchment areas. Feels like a throwback to another era in the Montecucco world with a warm and mature Rosso balanced by the truth of acidity that only sangiovese can provide. The additional cabernet sauvignon grapes are not forgotten but they are the background ambience and echoes. Low-lying, settled and easy drinking Rosso. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025.
Castel del Piano’s famous Lasagne courtesy of Poggio Stenti/Macelleria Norcineria/Carlo Pieri’s mother
Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Cartacanta 2021
Basile is located in the heart of the denomination at Cinigiano, also where the Consorzio headed up by President Giovan Battista is found. Basile purchased the 30 years abandoned and derelict property at the end of the 90s. Cartacanta is his entry level wine because he does not make Montecucco Rosso, a quintessential sangiovese, not only for the territory but also for what we imagine the grape to be for Tuscany. Largest production wine, selection in the vineyards separating this label from Ad Agio (Riserva). Made in a Piedmontese Capello Sommerso style, sometimes up to 45 days of maceration in conical vats. Maximum 50 days, de-stemmed and whole berry fermentation, infusions (a.k.a délestage) instead of pump-overs. Pure sangiovese and it smells just that way, a pinch of white pepper with ripe, mature and settled fruit. A sweetness of acids that unequivocally make this one to enjoy. Early drinking vintage in any case, admittedly more approachable and drinkable than most, youthful yet accessible. Rolls across the palate with sweet tannins below to see the promise of linger for three-plus years laid out ahead. Incidentally it was Cartacanta ’13 that was tasted by Barack Obama and Justin Trudeau in Montréal during an informal visit in January of 2017. Last tasted November 2024
The work of Giovan Battista Basile with his entry to market Montecucco sangiovese called Cartacanta, of two Italian words strung together, map and sing, perhaps as a reference to the beauty of his estate’s location. As sangiovese it’s surely a style made by the place, that being a southerly Tuscan location where ripeness is easily captured. Yet there is a cool, sweetly herbal and also savoury quality because freshness is so finely preserved. Understated sangiovese of humility and ease, without any real ambition or austerity of tannin. Makes for a fine and drinkable glass. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted June 2024
Begnardi Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Ceneo 2021
Another 2021 for the DOCG and wines readied earlier than the DOC blends. Begnardi is in the territory’s west at Civitello Paganico and Monte Antico with what feels like sandier soils as compared to areas further east. The fluidity and smooth consistency with darker fruit tells the story. Not particularly tannic nor is the acidity setting this up for long aging. A simple expression, totally drinkable this year and through the next. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2024
Salustri Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Santa Marta 2021
Santa Marta is Salustri’s Cinigiano solo sangiovese and a pioneer/driver for the DOC which first came into being back in 2011. Here 10 years after that appellative adjunctive is a 2021 from an ideal vintage if perhaps one that saw quantities diminished because of an April frost. Salustri fared OK and sangiovese survived just fine thank you very much. The tannic structure here is impeccable, balanced and acting very much the anchor, but also foundation for properly judged (in terms of macerated) fruit. If this does not explain how and why sangiovese is Montecucco’s future then there will be problems finding out what will. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted twice, November 2024
Tenuta Pianirossi Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG La Fonte 2021
Stefano Sincini purchased the farm in 2002, planted 14 hectares in 2007-2008 and there are now 20 in total producing six labels. The area of Cinigiano is the source for Pianirossi’s solo sangiovese sourced from this località. La Fonte refers to a fountain that was once in the vineyard, a hydration source for animals when it was still running. It must be down there somewhere but a vineyard is now the focus for this ripe, measured and fully formulated sangiovese. Sees 12 months in (500L) tonneaux. More tannin than many, judicious wood accentuated and liquid chalky in such regard. A dichotomous example because its both ready and grippy with quite a sheathing of wood all around. A bit extracted and heavy though time will settle the score. Tasting the maturing ’19 a day earlier explains quite a bit about the evolution of this wine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2024
Amantis Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2020
Solo sangiovese going back to 2020 because “the real sangiovese needs some time for aging and you can’t rush a pure one.” No acceleration insists Dr. Jacopo Vagaggini, “it needs time to be right.” Serious sangiovese too, as here with fine lines, straight and never angular, purely Amiata, bright, mineral, proper high acidity and of course, salinity. Low layered structure buoying fruit and setting it up on a perch to merge with wood spice and that which delivers and develops texture. Great chalky clay and Galesto texture. Hyper real. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2020
The work of Gianni Bartolommei and son Mattia along with oenologist Jacopo Vaggagini. The etstae us called 8 Ettari because, well eight total hectares though now actually nine, six of vines and three olives, started at the end of 2015. The youngest in a vertical of 2016-2020 Montecucco sangiovese and still a certain sort of maturity in a style of Montenero wines that get where they need to go and then linger there in a very similar state for up to five years. Makes for a sangiovese of immediate drinkability and gratification. Herbal and sapid, Montenero to Monte Amiata sapidity without any ability to avoid acting out the place. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025
Brunetto Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Montenero Vino Biologico 2020
Campione: Single vineyard sangiovese fermented in concrete, 15 days of maceration, a year in large 35 hL botti and a year in bottle. Tannic and tight but there is plenty of freshness and it will go to bottle within a month. Grabs the palate with the classic gancha hooks, travelling up the sides of the palate and back with indiscriminate grip. Not Stefano’s favourite vintage but should well develop into a very promising wine. Always remember that Stefano Brunetto is the winemaker who says “I am more a drinker than a producer.” Wink-wink, say no more. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2025
Campinuovi Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2020
Another sangiovese from the heart of that variety’s main growing area around the village of Cinigiano where soils mixed between sand, clay and sometimes schist stone will effect the variety as well, in a variety of ways. Here it’s more of a blood orange and tart style, sandy with stones it would seem for a bright, high-toned example. Nothing pressed or brooding about this out of what feels like a cooler vintage. Tannins get a bit austere and dry at the finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2020
Steel followed by eight months in botti and retuned back again for four more to finish refining. A mix of Venetian Garbellotto and Austrian Klaus Pauscha botti are used and the total time is less than many other Montecucco makers. And so the freshness is more pronounced, also as compared to wines like these being made just five years ago. Marco never used barriques, maybe for caberent sauvignon but not for sangiovese. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025
Assolati Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2019
From aboard Amiata’s northern slope at Castel del Piano and a whopper of a sangiovese labeled at 15 percent. Vintage directed but then again there are others from this commune and località at alcohol denoted as one or 1.5 degrees less. Picked late at end stage maturity it feels with a heavier set of fruit circumstances, lower acidity and mild tannins. Some of this fruit is desiccated and that wild strawberry meets frutta di bosco is unmistakeable. Drink up this Riserva styled sangiovese that does not have years of life left to live. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2019
Though 2020 shows early accessibility the same should not excatly be said about 2019. A vintage harder to come by to find immediate joy and though considered as a very good Montecucco vintage that sentiment concerns age-ability. The ’19 is still taut and compact, yet to open, full of fruit and even more sapidity but here in a very mineral salty way. That’s the style and it means Gianni paid attention to the season.The spicy finish confirms all of this. Last tasted February 2025
From one of Montecucco’s signature sangiovese areas at Castel del Piano on Monte Amiata’s northern slope. Another huge 2019 though this from Otto Ettari (yes, meaning eight hectares) neither broods nor lays low. It’s quite effusive and aromatically startling with captured acidity both tart and sweet. The fruit is so expertly ripe and macerated with great acumen, the tannins coming though on a level that puts all in balance. This is a big sangiovese for Montecucco but the equanimous capture needs to be admired. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024
Brunetto Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Montenero Vino Biologico 2019
Montenero is the name of the wine for a Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG from the producer (Stefano) Brunetto out of the higher Amiata reaches near Castel del Piano. A different set of parameters and circumstances that might make one blind taste such a wine and consider nebbiolo or nerello mascalese but in any case we can certainly view this as mountain wine. A wild herb and floral nose, of bergamot and vetiver from a wine made by an Ombrone river poet in search of naïveté. It’s well made to be sure, pressed a bit which brings out a slight greenness in the not perfectly ripe tannins and yet the wine does impart that necessary ethereal-like character. Feels like a work in progress from Brunetto and the sky feels like the limit for his wines. Also, a lighter weight bottle, please. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2024.
Maciarine Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2019
A Seggiano sangiovese, north slope of Monte Amiata yet lower down in elevation, warmer and exaggerated by the vintage. A 2019 with a heavy set of fruit and well-developed alcohol, something absolutely necessary because phenolic ripeness is everything. Which this expresses and along with it comes the glycerol, silken texture and vague impression of sweetness. Well made and good to go from now to the end of winter next. After that the softness and muddled flavours will begin to set in. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Podere Montale Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2019
The area is Seggiano, località Podere Montale just north of Castel del Piano on the north slope of Monte Amiata. A sangiovese with a feeling of dried herbs and even more so local balsamico which refers to a more Mediterranean climate than that of the higher reaches. More akin to certain micro-climates near Cinigiano with evergreen very much on the nose of this wine. Darker fruit as well, a unique expression with good presence, silken and gliding across the palate. Not particular grippy or tannic and so ready to drink whenever you are. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Poggio Stenti Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Tribulo 2019
Coming upon Poggio Stenti’s 75th anniversary and here six years before 2025 for a mountain sangiovese that speaks in a clear Castel del Piano vernacular. Purely and expressly sangiovese, sanguine and in tune with so many other high level wines from other (more famous and also expensively priced) Tuscan denominations. Poggio Stenti’s feels like it can ride alongside and offer similar experiences with its medium-toned floral aromas and glycerin glide over the palate. Just a hint of green tannin detracts from its own version of perfection but all in all this is a very good wine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2024
Tenuta Pianirossi Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG La Fonte 2019
First vintage was 2011 when the DOCG Montecucco came into being. Essentially from a single vineyard with a balanced vintage (minus the heat of 2017) housed within. The name considers the animals that would come to drink from the spring. Layers of abundant richness and a chalkiness part wood and part vineyard. Judicious yet reserved use of the barrel for a sangiovese where both variety and land may speak their truths. Usually 5,000-6,000 bottles are produced. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2018
Lighter vintage for Montecucco sangiovese, brighter fruit, more transparency and dried floral aromas. Rises in spirit and also delivers a true balsamico, not quite macchia but something you get from proximate volcanic terroir in these foothills of Monte Amiata. More presence on the palate that remind of the 2020 IGT. This is an in between vintage for the sangiovese, neither structured nor fresh and fruity but a bit of both. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2017
Not as light and transparent like 2018 but more expressive of this parochial local Balsamico and dried floral elements. Showing quite a bit more maturity than all the other wines but also wood. Still there is some charm, certainly località and understood qualità. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2016
The biggest vintage of all the wines in this 2016-2020 vertical and a sangiovese that has moved very little in its eight-plus year tenure. Still fresh, taut and compact, the herbs everywhere, the Balsamico and this amazing iron meets hematic character very much in play. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2025
Brunetto Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Montenero Vino Biologico 2016
This was Stefano’s first vintage after leaving Montalcino’s Le Macioche in 2014 and setting up shop on Monte Amiata. Vines are between 20-40 years old at this time and organic certification will follow in 2019. Based on sangiovese at 90 percent as per the regulations with a few points of ciliegiolo and merlot from a 1.5 hectare vineyard that shares space with trebbiano di toscana, malvasia and insolia. Montenero is a firm, concrete and linear example aged a year in 30 hL botti showing some age yet remaining quite vertical. An extra year in bottle ahead of release and a further six-plus ahead of this tasting tells us how well it works as a structured sangiovese of Montecucco. The best vintages are yet to come. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2016
From vineyards in Montenero at 450m for sangiovese treated to a long (up to 28 days) maceration. Ages in Slavonain Botti Grandi for 18 months and a further six in bottle ahead of release. Serious sangiovese in the vein of say Chianti Classico by Bucciarelli and quite frankly 2016 is still in its adolescent stage. Tannins remain firm and the wine is getting close with acidity persistently sweet and the elevation very much the driver. Still delivers freshness and with another year this should be at peak. Can age this to the end of the decade. Drink 2024-2030. T asted November 2024
Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG
Amantis Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2019
Riserva sees 24 months in (500L) tonneaux only and then like all of the Amantis sangiovese it must wait even longer before release, Not made in every vintage. Last three vintage produced are 2015, 2016 and this 2019 which is hitting the market now. For the first time we might make a comparison to (wink, wink) Brunello di Montlacino, not because we want to but due to the fact that Drs. Paolo and Jacopo Vagaggini have worked there with many wineries and produce their own 10,000 bottles at Croce di Mezzo. And so Biondi-Santi and Canalicchio di Sopra (amingst others) are connections, also with the style and effect of this kind of Montecucco sangiovese. As fine, focused and determined as tannins will get from this territory. A reminder that the perceived sense of acidity is higher here (and maybe highest for Montecucco) so time is the absolute requiem. Amants Riserva 2019 is one of the top Montecucco wines made through time. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2024
Assolati Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2019
Castel del Piano is the source upon Monte Amiata for sangiovese at Riserva DOCG status with a keen sense of maturity and resolution. A wealth of fruit, exuberance of acidity but also wood shedding plenty of spice, though even more acting like a flannel blanket. A case of ready to go but also needing some time to melt, integrate and soften further. There is just so much chocolate on the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2019
Fine work from 2019 Riserva because the wood is not up front, the sangiovese is on the lighter and transparent side and what this does is take the pinpointed place to transpose and exaggerate its character. That should be and is in fact the point, but what also comes through is a gently developed if higher concentration of fruit. Softer than the Classico sangiovese, available to enjoy just about now though clearly structured to age. A wine just as impressive as the most excellent 2016. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Ad Agio 2019
Pure Sangiovese, top drop for Basile and made in the vineyard. That is where plants are isolated for this Riserva but the story goes back much further, into the agriculture. Minimal tilling, sowing of seeds and cover crops, grasses etc., always improving biological organics, feeding the bacteria and fungal matter to allow these organisms to in turn generate energy and positivity for the plants. You can count how many times Giovan Battista Basile talked about his enumerative feelings for the vintage and truth be told 2019 delivers the classicism of waves rolling over the palate, through fruit, acidity and all that drives the fineness of the wine. Also for its ability to age, like a tide coming in, slowly with each wave gaining incrementally and seemingly infinite in action. Five months passed on by and yes, Ad Agio is becoming at ease which means it is indeed ready to fly. Great spirit and energy right now which is perfect for transition seasons with bright warm days and big time cooling down at night. Bring on the ragù di cinghiale! Last tasted November 2024
Ad Agio, “at ease,” a label indicative of a double entendre. The Maremma label is Comandante and so the first interpretation for this Montecucco Riserva would be a military one but the second would speak to the beauty and tranquility of place. Here from just south of Montalcino, not near the coast like the Maremma but still a place where the Basile family finds and creates wines of calm. This is decidedly deeper and more structured than the “Classico” but still within reason. Notably seasoned with spice and a toasted nut quality but in a way less austere than the Maremma because the tannins are softer from Montecucco. There is some fine energy here and a luxe feeling gained because of the vintage. Just about ready to go. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted June 2024
Palmoletino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Fondo Di Pio 2019
With 100 percent sangiovese the style, or better said the effect is as much Orcia Valley as it is Montecucco from vines growing at lower elevation above the banks of the Orcia River. Deeper and darker fruit, cooler, metallic and gelid. Last tasted February 2025
The producer is Azienda Agricola Palmoletino (the work of Erika Dotti) though she does not put her estate on the front label. Instead it reads as Fondo di Pio, a curious expression which feels like it could mean “the end of religion,” or perhaps “losing my religion.” In any case the sweet volatility, controlled wild character and unctuous glycerol define this sangiovese and remind us of what grape and place combined are meant to deliver. Feels like a wine of commentary, of trying to act so natural in the face of too much commercialism. Succeeds for the most part and surely Dotti loses no sleep over her work (and in phases where most dreams occur), but Fondo Di Pio is also vulnerable, innocent and out of time. “Consider this the hint of the century, consider this the slip.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Parmoleto Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2019
Mountain wine, a sangiovese out of Castel del Piano as Riserva that curates its accommodations by absorbing wood (likely Botte Grandi) with ease and style. A fine aromatic swirl of sweetness and volatility, flavours that go well beyond fruit into the soil and the forest, especially the forest with the floor drumming up an aromatic return. Goes round and round in circles, makes you think about terroir, keeps you connected and takes you places you’ve perhaps never been. Classic sangiovese. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2019
From 40 year-old vines only put to Riserva in the best vintages, with ’16, ’15, ’13, ’12, ’09, ’06 and 2005 being the previous seven. Same botti use as the non-Riserva, Klaus Pausha mainly now and for longer than that normale. Seriously structured, still a bit hard and taut even though it’s already at five-plus years of age. Impressive structure, not aggressive but tight and length is exceptional. Marco says soon, it will soften soon. Last tasted February 2025
The location is Montenero d’Orcia within Castel del Piano, down at the early rise of the northern slope aboard Monte Amiata. A wildly aromatic sangiovese but one from a certain micro-climate where the Macchia Mediterranea rules. All about balsamico, a bush and brush savour much more pronounced than herbs fresh or dried and here the elements of what grows around the vineyard is key to understanding these aromas. The palate and texture are profound, the overall experience something that feels attuned with terroir. If you want to know about Montecucco sangiovese with great ability to age then this is an ideal place to begin such a journey. It is the real deal. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2024
Podere Montale Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG La Casetta 2019
Seggiano, località Podere Montale just north of Castel del Piano on the north slope of Monte Amiata. An aromatic potpourri that concentrates the local balsamico, not herbal per se but something more distinctly savoury and brushy, denoting a true sense of place. The pine tree element is strong, as is the fruit and ripeness of the grippy tannins. This will age so very well and waiting a year for the green elements to settle down and in is high recommended. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola Otto Ettari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2018
So consistent with the 2019 in that Riserva does not express gratuitously as a stronger, grippier and more muscular sangiovese. Instead one of more fruit, a mineral-chalky structure and a relative softness as compared to the classico. Last tasted February 2025
Castel del Piano on Monte Amiata delivers great fruit for warm 2018 and an aromatic potpourri dominated by spice. Smells like dried roses, cinnamon, nutmeg and a faint resonance of bergamot. Quite woody mind you but this is Riserva style and even though the wine is coming upon six years of age there is still some further maturing yet to do. Clearly well made, slightly overambitious but wholly acceptable considering the quality of all parts available. Will be at its best come late winter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024
ColleMassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2018
I walked this vineyard only recently upon arriving to the Castello di Montecucco at the advent of a blue-lit twilight on the second Sunday in November. The impression was a captivating one, from the site, its undulating slopes casting a strong and forceful presence. Poggio Lombrone was first made in 2007 and ColleMassari’s voice was instrumental in securing the DOCG for Montecucco sangiovese. A special vineyard with older plant material than just about anywhere in Montecucco, upwards of 60 years now and THE place to promote the authenticity, but also to preserve the local savoir-faire that distinguishes Montecucco sangiovese. Longest ager in Riserva togs because of potential, a wine of località Cinigiano fermented for at least 30 days (and 45 in 2016) in open Gamba casks with daily (hand) punchdowns to realize a production of 9,000-10,000 bottles. Ages in only two or three year-old grandi botti but not in really old casks. French of a few years are ideal to seek and attain the desired elegance. The 2018 is a strong version of varietal independence off of the Lombrone hillside, upright and linear yet never found to be awkward, though it is a wine of tannic charge. Fine tannins in fact with good energetic pulse, still needing more integration, its ceiling set ultra high. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024
Maciarine Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2018
From the northern slope of Monte Amiata at Seggiano and a vintage with plenty of late season heat to develop sugars, phenolic ripeness and also alcohol. As such the maturity, advanced fruit character and density are all part of this sangiovese. Reminds of dried fruit roll up but that is not to say that freshness is absent. It acts as a spirited wine but there is no mistaking the weight and also wood come along to help supply the emulsified style. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
ColleMassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2017
“Poggio” and “L’Ombrone,” the hill and the river, a solo sangiovese from 40 year-old vines growing at 450m that represent some of the highest elevation in the foothills by the Ombrone looking up to Monte Amiata. Ferments in 1000L wood vats and sees 30 months in big barrel. Irrepressible frescezza for a 2017 which speaks to the advantage of elevation in the Montecucco territory. Plenty of vitality for sangiovese found right now to exist in a great place, for location and time. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted at Prowein, March 2024
Tenuta L’Impostino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Viandante 2017
The oldest of the Riserva being poured in this tasting of 30 Montecucco wines, here from the west-central area in Montecucco. Impostino is the name of the località inside the commune of Civitella Paganico and this from the warmest and even more so driest vintage of the last, well many years. Notable herba selvatica on the nose, more so than let’s say balsamico, of rosemary and thyme. Smells like a dry-rub spice mixture with pomegranate and red currant. Dried and leathery fruit flavours are quite old-school sangiovese for a wine that just feels like it comes from another time. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Ad Agio 2016
Tasted in a mini vertical from 2014-2016 and all three are showing maturity, though within the context of a holding pattern. The secondary notes are exclusive to the aromas while the palate reigns in to remains broad, full and with acids keeping great energy alive. This is the crux of Montecucco, of ripe wines that evolve somewhat quickly but this sweet acidity keeps everything moving swimmingly along. Ad Agio ’16 has arrived at stage two but it will hold this way for another four, possibly even six more years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024
ColleMassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2016
Winemaker Giovani Puccioni will tell you that 2016 was as perfect a vintage as there has ever been in recent times. The kind of season to gift fruit generosity and also quantity for the most concentrated and flattering sangiovese off of the hill known as Poggio Lombrone. This vintage arrives 18 years after the birth of the estate and marks the ninth for Puccioni. No other label represents the twain marked by this vineyard between sea and mountain, as the harbinger for effect because of PL’O being such a windy place. The now 60 year-old vineyard (or 50-plus at the time of this ’16) gifted optimum fruit sent to open-top Gamba fermenters for 45 days (though the usual number is 30), punched down by hand. Seven hectares produce 9,000-10,000 bottles. As sleek as it is silky, smooth as it feels polished and with the lion’s share of its freshness still intact. Stylish – seriously stylish sangiovese. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024
Palmoletino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Fondo Di Pio 2016
Vintages are everything for these wines and 2016 is reflective of a season for red fruit repeated in the mirror by instinctive an distinctive sangiovese acidity. Not something noted in 2019 but here a different level of grace and charm. Both are wines of focus and finesse but 2016…this is something other and will ultimately be longer lived. È buono. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Ad Agio 2015
The ’15 is in fact very different to the ’16, namely because of the blood orange meets chocolate character that maturity brings to the current glass. Secondary time and a next plateau that should stay like this for a few more years but I would personally drink the warm and developed ‘15s sooner rather than later, The tannins are fully resolved and while the acidity shines bright it’s not quite as grippy and sweet as that of the ’16. A bit tart to be honest but still a fine sangiovese as Montecucco. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG 2015
Marco and Emanuele Innocenti farm nine hectares of vineyards plus nine of olive trees, along with a herd of 60 Chianina cows. Their Peteglia Riserva ’15 continues to express an amazing freshness and the search for success lies in the aging, the time allowed, the requiem to bring the wine into a place of charm, beauty and grace. Can’t keep these wines in the cellar? Think that Montecucco does not age? The proof is right here but the market still does not know, or chooses not to understand. The ’15 is impressive for its great persistent fruit and acidity. Will stay this way for three or more years and then perhaps transform into something truly interesting, with even more spezzatura and sanguinella. Bloody refreshing, screams terroir and not wood. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2025
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Ad Agio 2014
Now this is sangiovese. High acid, thriving and forward thinking sangiovese. But purely Montecucco and do not confuse these Riserva as anything but. They have a signature, a sense of place abided and defined, but also a mark of their vintages. The 2014 season was much maligned and should not have been because cool, a little bit wet and later harvested grapes can accumulate great character – and lead to longevity. This is the example you should taste to understand the connections and also the irony. Great length, believe it and teach others about how these things can come to be. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Basile Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Ad Agio 2009
A solo sangiovese back then not fermented in wood yet aged in tonneaux for two years, followed by an additional two in bottle before release. The ’09’s acidity is still thriving, very much alive and kicking to maintain a high level of energy in the wine. Really good showing here – as well as if not exceeding expectation. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Palmoletino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Fondo Di Pio 2006
A throwback, a sangiovese from another era in the Montecucco, looking forward to what will eventually become with the 2019 Riserva, of a similar warmth and maturity balanced by the truth of acidity that only the Tuscan variety can provide. The truffle and porcini broth have arrived but not without other complexities swimming in the pool. Notes of liquorice, carob and cocoa, drops of herbal Amaro and a finishing delicasse that has sweetened with 18-plus years in bottle. Tasted February 2025
Sparkling, Toscana IGT and Maremma DOC
Peteglia Blanc De Noir Método Classico Pas Dosé Millésimato 2020
First fizz vintage for Petaglia, a solo sangiovese 48 months on lees and no dosage. Blanc de noirs, golden hue, oxidative style, gingery, cardamom, further exotic spicing and truly complex character. You think about the beach in a salty way but it’s more of sapid and botanical feel. When a winemaker’s approach is this way and there is great energy then there is success. Clearly a leader in Montecucco sparking made in the traditional method. There aere and will be 3,000 bottles produced every second year, this first of which is to be released this coming July. Brilliant wine, concept and production plan. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025
Salustri Rosé di Chiara 2023, Toscana IGT
A Rosé made with ciliegiolo, mammolo and other indigenous varieties, skin-macerated to result in a true posit tug between saltiness and sapidity, sweet red currant fruit and botanical phenolics. Unique even in the widest range of a wine category, not the only one of its kind but likely no other Montecucco producer is making Rosato this way. Can see this garnering great appeal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
ColleMassari Maremma Vermentino DOC Melacce 2023
A varietal vermentino grown in the Montecucco area that used to be labeled as such but marketing prevails and now Maremma gets the nod. From the vineyard at the tiny river or stream as tributary to another that is the same to the Ombrone. The best vermentino material goes into The Irisse (with grechetto) and here Melacce is namely concerned with fruit. That it is, not the saltiest white by any stretch of the imagination and so please proceed to drink away. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Salustri Vermentino Nara’ 2023, Toscana IGT
Would be hard to find more fruit in any vermentino as here in Nara’ 2023, a truly ripe, vinous example. A vermentino that would require great willpower to not kill a bottle all by oneself. So crushable, sweetly phenolic and equipped with ample attack. Nothing really salty about this one. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2024
Montenero Arturo 2018, Toscana IGT
“This wine was born as an experiment” explains Stefano Brunetto. A blend of 50 percent trebbiano di toscana, (30) malvasia di candia and (20) ansonica, planted by the previous owner for a kind of Vin Santo but Stefano does not really like sweet wines. And so here is a sort of Orange wine, clean and savoury, a dry marmalata of orange, persimmon and lemon. Five day maturation on skins ahead of fermentation at 10-12 degrees temperature, just for colour. Ages one year in concrete egg and also very old barriques from a Loire producer that makes Sancerre. A truly curious wine, dry as the desert, tang at full and sharp right through to what is a surprisingly long finish. An affinity with Oslavia but without oxidation, replaced by extract and tannin. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Salustri Bianco Marco Salustri 2018, Toscana IGT
“A wine of the house,” says Marco Salustri but in his shy way it feels like he’s very proud of this trebbiano. A little bit of skin contact goes a long way to develop a wild set of aromas, including the uncanny scent of beeswax and surely a result of the transformation in the cellar. Trebbiano alone would not cause this effect, nor the pear butter, apricot or longan note. Tropical and my goodness it smells like some Ontario Icewine, in other words maple syrup, but this is perfectly dry Tuscan trebbiano. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Peteglia Sangiovese Maremma DOC 2023
The young sangiovese, aged only in steel for five months and so it can’t be labeled Montecucco. The vines are younger than 10 years for fruit used in sparkling, Rosato and here as a varietal sangiovese. Some reduction in a peppery way, a bit carbonic, no whole bunch however, non-vegetal and fresh. A bowl of berries. Basic and glou-glou. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
Montenero Sangiovese Rebruno 2019, Toscana IGT
For 2019 Stefano Brunetto did a four week maceration with 20 percent whole bunch and three years of aging, one each in concrete, botti and tonneaux. “When I started I didn’t want to make three different sangiovese but by 2019 the vineyards were all different and so I decided I needed to make three different expressions.” Quite vinous this one, completely different than the Montecucco sangiovese, almost sinewy and devilishly chewy. So curious, verdant and savoury with a real lime soil impart. Still young and finding its way. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025
Montenero Sangiovese Rebruno 2016, Toscana IGT
Now this is a wine that has retained its freshness, keeping its joy and faith alive in spite of the exotic chocolate and spice flavours in the wine. Still some chalky tannin to resolve but for the most part this sangiovese is drinking well, with poise and grace. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
ColleMassari Tenuta di Montecucco Canaiolo 2023, Toscana IGT
A rare varietal canaiolo grown at the Tenuta di Montecucco, a famous church with outside buildings and chattels up on a hill near Cinigiano – A property acquired by ColleMassari in 2008. No wood involved, just the sapid canaiolo facts. A very particular grip and floral element, quite a black pepper finish but also a balsamico that comes from place. This is Montecucco in a nutshell, typical yet different and nothing in Chianti Classico expresses like this. Great curiosity and the team abides so dutifully by its requests. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024
Montenero Ciliegiolo Pàmpano 2019, Toscana IGT
A 100 percent ciliegiolo fermented in concrete with one day (of two weeks total) of carbonic maceration. Sees two years of aging in tonneaux followed by one in bottle. Here at Montenero the ciliegiolo is picked two weeks before sangiovese and so it must be treated differently but also more akin to French, as opposed to Italian grapes. Gamay for sure but also parts of it like syrah. Less than decade working with it but the journey is on track for gainful understanding. Pàmpano (from Verona) describes a giovane, a stupidotto, something a grandmother calls a young man every day. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025
Salustri – Marco e Giulia Salustri Ciliegiolo Numero Due 2023, Toscana IGT
One of the very few varietal ciliegiolo made in the Montecucco area, from a terroir situated between the Tyrrhennian Sea and Mount Amiata, on well decomposed Arenaria sandstone soils. A typically rustic and musky fruitiness, the aromas of scraped skins off of red fruits, including pomegranate and that fruitiness is everything for this lithe and transparent wine. The finish holds the slightest cherry stone or almond bitterness. Clean and fresh but like a young person with an old soul. Spot on, never complex but just right. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2024
Montenero Chimanera 2019, Toscana IGT
A 100 percent merlot from a small plot “with the same philosophy as the sangiovese, although it’s harder to obtain a merlot that is drinkable and fresh” says Stefano Brunetto. Fermented in concrete and aged three years in 500L tonneaux, followed by another in bottle. No it’s not Saint-Émilion, Galatrona or Masseto but it is in fact good merlot. In spite of climate conditions not perfectly suitabl to the grape due to the intensity of the sun, this does takes advantage of its lime and clay soils with the presence of iron to make a merlot with energy and Brunetto’s desired drinkability. The vintage made for some tannic and hard to get at sangiovese but it worked well for this grape. Acidity is high but the wine is softer and quite accessible. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025
With Jacopo Vaggagini – Amantis
Amantis Imperiore Cabernet Franc 2019, Toscana IGT
First made in 2005, then 2007, 2010, 2013, 2016 and here from 2019. Fermented in steel, aging in new (100 new) wood for 24 months. Thank goodness this is high quality fruit because the wood is all encompassing though the result is not heavy. On the contrary the elegance is discovered and though chocolate is omnipresent there is no denying the silken texture and cool, even salty disposition. The quality of the grapes and the wood is almost stupid. Some kind of weird science and magic happening here. Mineral, mint and length, all in. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2024
Azienda Agricola 8 Ettari Principio 2020, Toscana IGT
An IGT made with 80 percent sangiovese and a (20) mix of cabernet sauvignon, canaiolo and colorino aged in tonneaux. Sweet fruit, silky yet liquid pasty and no particular structure to speak of. Crunchy enough with a spicy Amaro finish. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025
Basile Maremma Toscana DOC Comandante 2020
A Maremma label which means the grapes come from within the administrative Grossetto boundaries which include all of Montecucco. All the sangiovese and merlot are from Montecucco but the blend does not qualify for that (Rosso) DOC. Giovan Battista and oenologist Maurizio are so adept at making these settled, smooth and palate nurturing wines, never with a moment of green, hard, edgy, austere or grippy tannins. These wines drink well early but have the acidity to match, with thanks to north and east exposures, wind and elevation between 400 and 500m. Very fine. Last tasted November 2024
From the heart of the Basile family’s estate in the Tuscan coastal Maremma in the Municipality of Cinigiano. Comandante (commander) is a blend of 50 percent each sangiovese and merlot aged 18 months in French wood. There is richness and yet no real feeling of too much heat because the place is cooled by maritime breezes and even in hot vintages the place and the vines can breathe. The freshness is captured, as is the unmistakable quality defined as Macchia Meditteranea, a brushy-herbaceous aromatic splendour that defines wines proximate to the coast made in honest ways. This is such a wine, even while the wood needs to settle in. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2024
This article is sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco
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