Twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024

Dec27

‘Tis an exercise performed year after year, a word processor’s per annum distillation to say thank you and recognize game. To consistently act as messenger, be conscious of hard work filed and to celebrate that excellence. The first list was conceived more than 10 years ago, now peaking at its current number with twenty-four mind-blowing wines chosen for 2024. Travels to fluctuating destinations mean from year to year wine regions will carry different weight and the list abides by the variance. In 2023 Bordeaux played a significant role, as did South Africa and Washington in 2022, Bourgogne in 2019, and so on. The rules of engagement never change but evolution plays its part, priorities pivot and you never can say or tell what sorts of matters will strike deep into the heart.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Godello needs to make a confession, shed some honesty, clear the air. He admits to a love for writing tasting notes and needing to do it, especially when a potentially mind-blowing wine is in the glass and what follows flows forth as a stream of consciousness, ending only when the creative tap closes naturally. When these notes are edited weeks or even months later there is the incredulous feeling of “how did this get written – where did these words come from?” They just did, from right out of the wellspring of creativity, but Godello does not know how he came to write those notes – as if they were magically written. Paragraphs woven from dots and thoughts for unsuspecting connections between writings and wine, such as “Ribelle è colui che si distingue.” Translated as, or better yet in reference to “the rebel is the one who recognizes the unjust law and breaks free from it,” from Ernst Jünger’s 1951 “The Rebel’s Treatise.” The German philosopher, essayist and WWII captain was once called die Burgunderszene because he watched a bombing raid in Paris while sipping Burgundy. The stylish supervillain of twentieth-century German literature’s disquisition shared dire and prophetic words on what a future world would be, in what he called the “Age of the Titans.”

Godello beneath a massive Tuscan Mazza di Tamburo/Parasol Mushroom

Or this. “The label represents the position of the vines in coordinates, echoed in the machicolations of a sangiovese that drops all the stones on unsuspecting palates through fruit openings between supporting acid corbels of a projecting tannic parapet.” Where did that come from? Or simply, “who needs fruit when you have rocks?”

ColleMassari

More than rugs tie rooms together – lyrics, song titles, movie quotes, literary passages, exchanges between a journalist and a poet, thinker, writer, actor or composer – they are all a part of the masala. Reminds of a 2021 interview with a reluctant prophet. “Try to sit down and write something like that – there’s a magic to that and it’s not Siegfried & Roy kinda magic you know, it’s a different kind of penetrating magic.” All kidding comparisons aside with Bob Dylan’s answers to Ed Bradley in that famous 60 minutes exchange, but they may just be artistic words to live by. And why Godello? “You call yourself what you want to call yourself. This is the land of the free.” As for the relevance of wine tasting notes, sure it feels like being “a wordsmith from bygone days,” but it still feels right. And necessary. And unavoidable. A bottomless pit of cultural oblivion? No, not that. Tasting notes tell stories that need to be told. Relayed by messengers fulfilling a destiny to visit and break bread with good people making great wines and in turn agreeing to relay their tales. Tasting notes are the chronicles, expressed as narrative, of anecdotes woven through prose. If there is a better way to say what needs to be said it has not yet been found.

Chianti Classico’s Cento Anni

As of today’s date and the publishing of this year-end list Godello has reviewed 4,225 wines. If the origins of said wines were to be separated into categories than the breakdown would be as follows. Thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (8) Piemonte, (6) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (14) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 24, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2024. Here are his twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024.

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, Vdp. Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Adega Do Vulcáo (c) entrevinhas.com

Adega Do Vulcáo Ameixâmbar 2022, Açores IG

A seriously volcanic blend of native grapes from two areas, first the ash of the Capelinhos and second the basalt of the Criaçào Velha. Add in the cold Atlantic influence and the result is something extraordinary to potentially mind-blowing. That depends on how much flint struck rock, mineral mouthfuls and deepening trajectories you may or not desire in your endemically-formulated white wines. Ameixambar is just such an animal and the profile, especially noted with verve and lashes upon the palate, is well, remarkable. Nothing else feels or tastes like this wine. Truly salty and there are notes that imagine powder created by crushing many different shells, inclusive of oyster, calm and mussel. You may ask yourself what is this, but you can answer with a simple word, or place. Açores. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2024

Inama I Palchi Grande Cuvée Foscarino Soave Classico DOC 2021

I Palchi, as in the “stages,” a geographical term for a series of wide terraces aboard Monte Foscarino lined with pergolas of old garganega vines. In this case Inama’s highest level of Soave Classico meant to celebrate the ancients. As a surname it belonged to a cleric but also Antonio Foscarini (c. 1570 in Venice – 22 April 1622), member of the Venetian nobility, ambassador to Paris, London and later sentenced to death for high treason by the Council of Ten and executed. Yikes! This Foscarino ode is intended towards grapes and volcanic terroir for a bloody incredible garganega of substance and style. The ’21’s ability to attract and engage the taster’s attention is at the top of the Soave game. Fresh, flinty and wholly engaging. Mind-blowing actually. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted December 2024

Marqués De Murrieta Capellanía Reserva Blanco 2018, Rioja DOCa

Only viura grapes are chosen from a six hectare calcareous clay plot off of 70 year-old vines located at the highest elevation of the Marqués De Murrieta Ygay Estate. The winemaking might well be working with sauvignon blanc and sémillon but with viura the ageing in French barrels takes a turn for the unexpected ethereal. The flinty smoulder is an intoxicant of the most hypnotizing order. The effect upon the palate and all the senes is extraordinary – mesmerizing. So what is Capellanía? In Spain it was a chantry or ecclesiastical endowment, one of several pious works commonly founded during the colonial period. A foundation in which certain assets are subject to the fulfillment of masses and other pious charges. Imaginatively speaking Capellanía is a rarity, monoceros, symbol of grace purity, power and transcendence. Not to mention healing powers and freedom. A unicorn. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted June 2024

Vanessa Cherruau
(c) media.ouest-france.fr

Château De Plaisance Sur La Butte 2021, Anjou AOP

A wildly aromatic two cabernet blend from the Butte de Chaume where some of the finest wines made anywhere come from Chaume, Quarts de Chaume and Savennières. The curiosity and modernist approach is made two-fold by the presence of cabernet sauvignon to stride effortlessly alongside the usual franc. Yes this smells like the Loire but the aromas deliver so much more, in curiosity and intriguing sensations. Anjou in place and temperament but in design this may as well be a contemporary, abstract or Pop Art piece by François Morellet. The two related varieties form an almost intricate geometric pattern in the way they line the palate, so cleanly drawn with mathematical clarity. Yes this is serious Loire red wine but it’s also traceable, pre-minimalist and post conceptual by design. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2024

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Domaine De Bellene Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots Bourgogne AOC 2022

In the woods as they say, “souches” or here “Suchots,” a 0.2159 hectare block in Vosne-Romanée that hangs a little longer, likely because the forest asks it to. Fresher, high spirited and savoury Bourgogne comes from the vineyard, picked on September 5th, coming away with more phenolic grip and aromatic volume because of the place. Less defined in 2022 perhaps because of a vintage’s great munificence but as far as plots in this area are concerned there are few that will speak as clearly as Les Suchots. Seamless and focused, unique as they come in an era of technical proficiency and expertise. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted August 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted September 2024

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadia and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

The hill within the hill, Bricco Pernice upon Ravera, isolated, insulated and encapsulated for nebbiolo of an insular and implosive intensity that’s likely unparalleled anywhere else in Novello. Closed and not because of vintage but due to time and really that’s about it A broad shouldered and muscular nebbiolo that must be given as much bottle time as it spent in cask, or double that for even better results. That means check back in 2026 or later to see if any part of the tannins have unfolded, unfurled or stretched out for some exercise. Likely not but then some parts will finally have as the decade unwinds. Also it’s normal in January for Pernice to be tight and a bit closed. Oh, by the way this was made with 100 PERCENT WHOLE BUNCH NEBBIOLO. For Barolo. Single vineyard Barolo from a storied MGA. Walter’s mid-life crisis begins right here and it’s glorious. Drink 2029-2045. Tasted January 2024

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

A top echelon cru, a producer that gets it as well as if not better than the rest and an eponymous label out of a relationship that develops longevity without equal. That would be the thrilling isosceles trilogy of Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Bricco Boschis and Barolo. Their 2010 is as youthful as any nebbiolo of this age, striking, rising, invigorating and still working through its operations. A performance piece of varietal for landscape as the most terroir driven Barolo as any of the best in the land can be. A triangle of Castiglione Falletto that speaks in unequivocal terms, fruit, acid and tannin intertwined, five years of this life still laid out ahead, 10 further for curiosity and interest beyond. Truth. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted January 2024

Poggio Lombrone, Tenuta di Montecucco

Collemassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2018

I walked this vineyard only recently upon arriving to the Castello di Montecucco at the advent of a blue-lit twilight on the second Sunday in November. The impression was a captivating one, from the site, its undulating slopes casting a strong and forceful presence. Poggio Lombrone was first made in 2007 and ColleMassari’s voice was instrumental in securing the DOCG for Montecucco sangiovese. A special vineyard with older plant material than just about anywhere in Montecucco, upwards of 60 years now and THE place to promote the authenticity, but also to preserve the local savoir-faire that distinguishes Montecucco sangiovese. Longest ager in Riserva togs because of potential, a wine of località Cinigiano fermented for at least 30 days (and 45 in 2016) in open Gamba casks with daily (hand) punchdowns to realize a production of 9,000-10,000 bottles. Ages in only two or three year-old grandi botti but not in really old casks. French of a few years are ideal to seek and attain the desired elegance. The 2018 is a strong version of varietal independence off of the Lombrone hillside, upright and linear yet never found to be awkward, though it is a wine of tannic charge. Fine tannins in fact with good energetic pulse, still needing more integration, its ceiling set ultra high. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2020

Montosoli the northerly Montalcino mound, the hill of freshness, the knoll where sangiovese gains grip, savour and elegance, where Canalicchio di Sopra’s Vigna designate Brunello from six hectares delivers approximately five into this wine. The precision and fluidity of this ’20 is just about as fine and graceful as the Ripaccioli have ever produced. Literally the juice or blood of Montosoli’s Galestro, a clay-schist flaking at the surface bleeding back down into the earth, acquired by the roots, vacuumed back up into the vines and gifted to the bunches. Sapidity is similar to 2018 and that year was cold(er) which explains how soil is such the driver, especially for Montosoli. This tastes as you might expect, concentrated, texturally full and without pause. Incredible Brunello. Poised, seemingly ready but not, looking ahead two decades, maybe more. With thanks to perfectly restrained cellar work, timing and decision making. In this moment, at least in terms of clarity, 2020 is a Montosoli vintage. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2024

With Giacomo Neri

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Cerretalto 2019

The Cerretalto canyon is this singular Brunello’s origin, the place defined by Giacomo Neri as a “plintite,” of quartz, iron and magnesium elements residing next to and bleeding into the four hectare vineyard, which is incidentally a cooler località for Montalcino and very special place. Rare in the world, of an elemental-geological symbiosis found in parts of Australia, Brazil, China and here, in Montalcino. “It’s another planet” insists Giacomo Neri. You will smell blood and flint (a.k.a. gunpowder) because of the mineral personality. This is Brunello di Montalcino from sangiovese something altogether incomparable. A sangiovese wearing the terroir of a Tuscan trough on its sleeve, having spent two and a half years in tonneaux (more or less 20 percent new) and the same amount of time in bottle ahead of its much anticipated release. Yes the aromatics are concerned with trace metals and ingredients of the “canalone” of Torrenieri, but do not sleep on the purity and modernity of red to black fruit, or at least the perception brought forth because of the minerals involved. Sweetness of acidity is classic Casanova di Neri for 2020 but in Cerretalto they are near perfect and the tannins move from those noted out of Tenuta Nuova multiplied by the Giovanni Nero fineness to now enter into the arena of higher love. For the first time this estate’s Brunello di Montalcino should be given an absurd amount of time. Observing it change in the glass over 30 minutes explains much of what is needed to be known. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2024

Contrada Chiesa, Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane, Torano Nuova

Nothing else noses like this montepulciano and what is also perceived is the extreme youth of such an example. Gifts with shadowy hints and generous ideas but the sensations yet to come are manyfold, if quite possibly infinite. Fruit source just feels tops and selection so much more stringent than just about any in the appellation. Tannins are about as tight as any in all of Abruzzo and the interplay between fruit and structure is both playful but also gripped by an intensity of tension. A few sips gathers the swarthiness of the vintage but time will elasticize and disperse the parts. The potential here is great and if this is not looked upon as a top vintage today there will be times over the next 25 years where that opinion is challenged. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted March 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035. Tasted May 2024

Vineyards in Ulmo

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Coonawarra, South Australia

From vines planted in 1994 and 1996 right there where it matters within Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip. The Menzies, as in the name of the estate where the Hill-Smith family saw the future back in 1992, there on a flat plain, approximately 70 km from the coast. The cooling Bonney upwelling is an influence and the red soil is, well everything. That said 2017 was a wet and cool season by Coonawarra standards and harvest required many passes over a 10-day period in April. Climate being what climate has become translates as a special cabernet sauvignon because the cool factor, for gelid fruit and sweet savour, not to mention more complex notions of herbs, spices and seasoning than you could seemingly fit into one bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Complexity be glory, as they say and the rest will be history. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted October 2024

Good to go!

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100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

Jul1

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The year 2024 marks a historic one for Chianti Classico’s producers, their land and consortium. It was 100 years ago that Italy’s first Consorzio was formed and today it so effectively conducts affairs on behalf of and at the behest of the most important red wine of Italy. The ambasciatore Godello was a guest to the May 14th Gallo Nero celebrations and later in the month returned for another week of interviews. This on the heels of a most recent month-long journey spent in Tuscany, first taking in the Chianti Classico Collection, then followed by two full weeks of meeting with dozens of producers. The current preoccupation is with Chianti Classico’s next generation, whose daughters, sons, nieces and nephews are returning to work their farms alongside parents and grandparents at nearly forty estates. And counting. The region’s progeny and their view to the future ushers in an extant situation of meaning and promise. Feel free to read between the lines and envision what stories will next be revealed.

Chianti Classico gives unconditionally and without seemingly ever needing to try we receive its gifts, all in and forever. There can never be enough days spent transversing its verdant hills, foraging in teeming forests, walking up and down rows through 10,000 hectares of vineyards or breaking bread with its people. It is simply never enough. Four decades of the Gallo Nero have occupied the writer’s mind, heart and eyes from a territory unlike any other and in the last eight years the association has bordered on obsession. Visits in the last six months have seen the author driving to all points taking in its 11 UGAs, talking, tasting and better getting to know acquaintances and friends. All in the name of “love for the territory, passion for quality, social cohesion, vision and foresight.”

Godello at Villa Calcinaia

The promise of 2024 comes on the heels of a most challenging 2023 vintage which saw more spikes in extreme but also unpredictable climate events, but also 30 days of (May-June) constant rain that encouraged the nasty downy mildew issue called Perenospera. The serious pathogenic foliar disease reveals itself in the form of leaf spots, blights, and distortions, forcing the hands of growers to effect a strong, concerted and persistent attempt at spraying copper and sulphur to combat its deadly activity. This next vintage will fare much better, climate be willing, yet it remains to be seen just how resilient Chianti Classico vines will be.

Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico Cento Anni Gala, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

In the third week of May the three Capponi siblings, Tessa, Sebastiano and Niccolò hosted a grand celebration of Villa Calcinaia’s 500th anniversary. At Brancaia in Radda it was proprietor Barbara Widmer who poured 20 vintages of her Toscana IGT Ilatraia. A meaningful visit with Martino Manetti at Montevertine helped to recalibrate and reorganize thoughts about sangiovese and Chianti Classico. Back in December of 2023 the writer spent a few days with Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi as he packed up to depart after four decades at Olena and blended his final wines at the San Donato in Poggio estate. Working with him briefly on VinSanto del Chianti Classico 2011 will never be forgotten. De Marchi is a Chianti Classico treasure and history will always regard him as a winemaker, thinker and great man who was integral to the appellations’ transition from the 20th into the 21st century. As will many other women and men of the territory who begin the conversion processes of passing their torches to the next generation. These last five years have seen the first stages of a paradigm shift now in full swing and these next five will see to Italy’s most fascinating transformation. The modern era of a next golden age is upon Chianti Classico and if you are not already paying attention, it’s high time to get on board.

Related – Chianti Classico goes to eleven

Cento Anni

On May 14th, 2024 the Chianti Classico Consortium celebrated its first century together with the city of Florence, one hundred years ago after its founding in Radda in Chianti. The first consortium established its offices in the historic Uguccioni Palace in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria and the 2024 occasion resumed its position in these headquarters located within the historic city centre. Godello was proud, privileged, overjoyed and content to have been invited to participate in such a sincere and consummately orchestrated occasion.

President Giovanni Manetti speaks at the Chianti Classico Consorzio Cento Anni, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The day’s events began with the conference “Back to the Future: Sustainability and regional identity – The future of quality winegrowing,” moderated by Luciano Ferraro – Corriere della Sera in the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. First introductions by Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori. Local speakers were Francesco Lollobrigida – Minister for Agricultural Minister, Food Sovereignty and Forestry; Eugenio Giani – President of the Regione Toscana; Dario Nardella – Mayor of Florence. Esteemed guests from other significant denominations were invited to offer up their congratulations; Matteo Ascheri – President of the Consorzio Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Italy; Gilberto lareias – President of Port and Douro Wines Institute, Portugal; Morgen McLaughlin – Executive Director of Willamette Valley Wineries Association and Wine Foundation, Oregon USA; Thiébault Huber – President of Confédération des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne, France; Maxime Toubart e David Chatillon – Co-presidents of Comité Champagne, France.

Chianti Classico Cento Anni, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

What followed was a dissertation and then a round-table discussion covering the intrinsic link between wine and land, the cultural landscape and sustainability. Speaking on Chianti Classico’s cultural landscape was Professor Paola Eugenia Falini – Head of science for the UNESCO application and her talk titled “The estate-villa structure in Chianti Classico.” Ferraro led the round-table with Giovanni Manetti, Piero Antinori, Tessa Capponi-Borawska, Giangiacomo Gallarati Scotti Bonaldi, David Gleave MW, Monica Larner, Prof. Andrea Lucchi and Alessandro Masnaghetti.

Chianti Classico Back to the Future

Nine other events took place over the course of three days in May; Five meetings with starred Florentine chefs, their plates paired with Chianti Classico wines, a musical pairing orchestrated by Leonardo Romanelli and conducted by Filippo Bartolotta. Of greater significance to the future of the Black Rooster were gatherings moderated of Falstaff Magazine’s Simon Staffler with the next generation of producers under 40 who are being passed the baton and given the keys to the territory’s future. The most exciting Cento Anni event took place in the evening of May 14th where 500 guests gathered at the Teatro della Pergola di Firenze for a gala dinner to win all gala dinners. Nothing in Italy recently experienced has compared to the night’s mix of spectacular and emotion.

Cento Anni at Prowein 2024

As with previous anteprime collections the vintages poured were varied and so it was the mix of 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2019 wines that collectively offered up an indication of what is happening in today’s Chianti Classico. Many of the ’22s were poured from campione, hit or miss tank samples often challenging to assess and so even at the Annata level the ’21s are considered to be the current vintage. Though lower in quantity it is the 2021s that are of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers chose to keep their wines behind to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle. In this report the lion’s share of wines tasted happened over the course of one week ahead of, during and across two further weeks following the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Some additional notes are from visits made in December 0f 2023 that were not included in Godello’s recap report covering the second half of that calendar year. More tastings from May 2024 are also included in the following 403 reviews.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

The breakdown is as follows: Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 (49); Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 (80); Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 (19); Chianti Classico DOCG Older Vintages (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020 (34); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019 (12); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG older vintages (18); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 (7); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020 (35); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 (20); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG older vintages (12); VinSanto del Chianti Classico DOCG (2); IGTs (87). Thank you to everyone for reading.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Dusty and sweetly herbal sangiovese with the warmth of vintage and softness endearing through 10 percent cabernet sauvignon plus (5) merlot. A chewy texture, easy and getable, of no particular pinpointing, yet proper for its broad swath of distinction. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Errico, Marta and Gabriele Buondonno

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

A finished wine already blended though drawn from a sample that will be bottled in December. A bigger production than normal and so a sangiovese of volume in more than one dimension. There was some rain in the summer to make the difference but not much, neither occurring too early or too late to compromise quality. Solo sangiovese in vitro projecting forward towards really important structure noted through some chalky tannins. Spiced and spicy notes, depth of fruit and also lifted acidty, all adding up to a Chianti Classico packed with more stuffing than many. This is as good as anything Gabriele has, but also now in collaboration with son Errico Buondonno have made to date. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

True blue 2022 still working through the motions of getting ready for the world and the journey ahead. Ripe fruit from 2022, like 2017 but with more succulence and generosity. Juxtaposed by an underlay of evergreen and a moment of creosote, but also clove. Concentrated from a well-pressed and extracted sangiovese made just that little bit sapid from five percent canaiolo. Wait a year at the very least. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2022, Castellina

L’Aura is another 2022 that shows a readiness and immediate appeal much sooner than most, with thick and unctuous fruit made fresh and bright by one of the higher points in Castellina. Great spicy accents, salt and pepper seasoning, thick pulpy red fruit and some of the vintage’s sweetest acidity. A terrific early to mid term sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Andrea, Daniela, Sergio and Giulia Zingarelli – Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The line of Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico is now separated from the single estate wines, but says Andrea Zingarelli “these are the wines that show where we were born.” Another hot vintage but perhaps more equilibrium overall than 2021 and it shows. This separates from Famiglia Zingarelli and yet it’s inextricably linked. There is five percent merlot that rounds it out and the fruit comes from all the (and only) Castellina estates. No noise, just the facts and the sounds, smells and tastes of the territory. This may just be the cleanest, naturally sweetest and perfectly drinkable Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico ever produced. It will appeal to any and all. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The latest from Sophie Conte (also tasted from barrel on December 4th, 2023) is her first crowing moment, at least to date and in terms of her young career in making Chianti Classico Annata. De-stemmed and no pressing, fermentation at 24 degrees (celsius), 10-12 days, saturated with nitrogen, taste every day, separated when the skins release no more. Made with three vineyards’ fruit; Vigna del Bosco, Vigna del Strada and Casa, right by the house. “I’m pretty happy (we hit the point) in 2022,” admits Sophie. Brightness and freshness found, the goal achieved and bitterness kept not only at bay, but fully away. An aromatic swirl of pinpointed Castellina intensity that draws from the winds and the slopes to translate soil as best and purposed as any. You can feel the energy waiting and wanting to be released. No lack for structure from Conte’s 2022, young and yet to evolve into the polished solo sangiovese it is destined to become. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Surprisingly forthright and open knit for such a young and impressionable Annata from Fèlsina. Calm and relatively settled so soon after going to bottle. The acidity is both sneaky and essential with tannins so similar in their design and style. A full and complete Berardenga for Castelnuovo in 2022, getable earlier than ever before yet in no rush to mature. As clean and generous as ever from the estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Sample or not this smells just like Tenuta di Arceno. A southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga dry, dusty, sharp red fruit and herbal aromatic swell that increases with air to a glorious vanishing point. What follows is another swell of the same fruit and equally sharp acids that carry on wayward along. As for 2022 well this may seem akin to 2017 but as an Annata so much brighter, cleaner, fresher and frankly better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A finished wine though quite compact and reserved so seemingly caught in that limbo between the idea of campione and set to be ready. Quiet and tight, some leather and cherry but those typical notes don’t say so much. Strong-willed, forcefully tannic and frankly feeling pretty ambitious. Should rightly age long and successfully though the jury is out on where and what the end game will be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico DOCG Il Palei 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Strong willed, boned and still in a state of reserve for a 2022 that not only needs to find the bottle but also further in bottle aging to open up any cracks in the structure. Rich and caky, wood a serious factor at this stage with a structural comport that will see a ’22 follow the sun towards a good long life ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

With Arturo Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Only Ama could pull and gift this much upfront fruit to draw us in as quickly as we do. Richness accrued and balance incarnate, more than juicy acidity and fully encapsulating tannin. If this is what Annata is all about the ceiling is unlimited for San Lorenzo and the more interlocutory and focused single vineyard Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Super ripe of fresh blueberry and sappy at this awkward stage. No doubt about the tenets of depth, breadth and major substance, not to mention ripe, layered and sweet acidity followed by crispy tannins. Long life ahead that should begin to unfold in three years time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Less of a hard nut to crack as far as 2022 barrel samples are concerned because La Montanina’s has found and first turns to upfront fruit. The middle ground is a bit chaotic but then the finishing parts ate about as powerful as they are capable of brining it all together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples. Tasted February 2024

Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Classic lift and high tone of a Ricasoli Annata, more so than those of the recent past. Several layers are here to unfurl, first from classic cherries, followed by Gaiole saveur and notable wood spice. Almost a smoulder but not quite, plenty of freshness and a true sense of 2022. Really well made and appreciated. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

By now this unctuousness and thickened emulsification of the palate’s mouthfeel has become the calling card of 2022 Chianti Classico. Richness, sweet acidity and succulence with this by Riecine arrives as sweetly concurrent as they come. This means tannins as well, good for the gander if not for the long-term cellar. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

You could blind these 2022 Chianti Classico and no matter the UGA they all deliver a thickening of glycerol texture and glide silkily across the palate. There is just a hint of reduction in the Rocca di Castagnoli with moments here and there of Gaiole savour before finishing with a pique of seasoning and spice. Good complexity and fine tannins seal the deal. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Campione: Youthful an traditional sample, Greve classicism defined, dry and balsamic inflected, tannic and far from opening forward. Doors are closed and may not open for another year. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Comfortably reductive and set in its ways but also into skin because the quality of skins in this higher quantity Annata are in delivery of top freshness and potential. A fine example of vintage and one to set eyes on the future with peppery sweetness of fruit and spice. Crunchy and furthering the notion for how Castello di Querceto has truly cemented into the golden age of its Chianti Classico style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2022, Greve

Campione: Perfectly balanced sample of 2022 sangiovese, Greve and Vicchiomaggio, red fruit captured with as much perfumed ripeness as could be desired while also fulfilling palate needs. This is what should be expected and gifted from a Campione – a window to the drinking window and potential of the wine. No need for wonder or worry – you know you will get the right stuff from Guado Alto ’22. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

A blend of all vineyards, Ruffoli (Greve), Lamole and Radda, 100 percent sangiovese since 2010. Frost in April claimed many buds but the soldiering on resulted in high quality fruit from all three sources to create as fine an Annata, variegated as ever they could layer as Querciabella. Fruit, acid, tannin on perpetual repeat, mille foglia, maximizing natural purity and sweetness. Also as aromatically charged of tri-terroir perfume to lead where and for what a Querciabella attempting to express itself must be. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Lamole

Campione: Full on expression of the Lamole perfume, from violets and iris to the wet green moisture from calcareous hillsides and humid sandy soil elegance. A lovely swirl of fruit so glycerol in nature and that gentle pique of spiciness upon the palate. This is a 2022 that will be glorious because the team and their most focused of micro commitments have really found the vintage beauty out of the UGA. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Full and substantial which is pretty much what we have come to expect from a Lamole (di Lamole) sangiovese and to a degree much higher than any other from that UGA. Perfumes yes but fruit and texture are the base ingredients to make this wine swell forth. Lots of love and deep space in L de L’s 2021 with a sleek Macigno feel throughout. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

High octane aromatics, petrol and plasticine, raw dough and reduction. A train wreck up front and then beautifully glycerin on the palate. Gives off the feeling of a Campione because of the early heat and oxidative sample. Thinking the finished wine will be a great improvement, Stay tuned for another taste somewhere down the line. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2022

Campione: Big, bold and promising Gagliole Annata sample, fortified by Alberese and Pietraforte stony soils, clearly large and impressive. Big tannic freight and profile for the appellation, two years away from settling and five more before the window is fully open. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Though the journey for 2022 was a challenge it was also a vintage combining quantity an quality, then ultimately balance. Tasting from several tanks saw some variability in the samples but technical director Iacopo Morganti’s culm measures and crafty blending helped this sangiovese find its way. The cuvée has finished clean and moderate, certainly lighter than 2020 and 2021 but characterful to a great solo varietal degree. A clarified 2022 that fills the spirit, reminds of the place and provides conspicuous local macchia or balsamico. Treads lightly and delivers that Panzano at Radda’s border to a “T.” Fine wine, nothing big or impressive, but simply IMG sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Pizza by Michael Schmelzer

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2022, Panzano

Bottled in March, classically Montebernardi juicy as F and at the peak of Panzano perfume. Spiced chalky aromatics too, carried forward and that’s the segue in combination to accede a structured feeling for unlimited possibility. The appellative level seems not to matter because this is cracker fresh and pure sangiovese from the thinking grower and winemaker that is Michael Schmelzer. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted again, May 2024

Campione: Just pulled from barrel so not yet blended and therefore not a finished wine. A perfumed, classically so vintage with succulence, crunchy and liquid peppery. Not its most refined vintage, neither vivid nor intense but it will surely show better once it settles in bottle. Truly perfumed and that will only increase as well with time. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangio’ 2022, Panzano

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted again, February 2024

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

All sangiovese with Radda and Castellina fruit, mostly in concrete (though not quite all) and only steel for the rest. Some fruit is or will be coming from Poggiolo Vineyard in Castellina, a property owned by Candians Rob and Darcy Gillespie. Juicy and simply freshness incarnate. Last tasted April 2024

Sleek, suave and chic Annata for Brancaia out of 2022 with layers of red and blue fruit augmented by quality tannins. Early stages of reserve and reduction but there is no questioning the levels of substance. An extension of a change in style that began in 2019 with the move to bright and honest Classico, yet ’22 is clearly bigger, weightier and with increased structure. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Top Radda terroir, high elevation, rolling terrain, excellent exposure and no lack for biodiversity. Adds up to great potential while 2022 is currently rough and tumble. Chewy sangiovese with wood still noted and yet to melt into the whole. Time will be an ally so that the rustic elements soften and parts integrate better. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

At Radda nel Bicchieri with Angela Fronti and Lorenza Rossi

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: “Arancia sanguinella,” says Angela Fronti, that note of blood orange she always finds in her wines. A really dry summer and you find a level crunchiness and dried herbs from a vintage where picking continued consistently every morning through late September and early October. Clean the grapes as you go explains Fronto and in the end she was very happy with both quality and quantity. Crisp and crunchy Annata for Angela Fronti, undisclosed in its gratuity and wound up like Angela Fronti on a 100 foot high rock face. In other words focused, determined and competitive. Not sure this should even be tasted and assessed in any shape or form today. Come back soon. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: Now the is a proper sample. Fresh, clean, energetic and persistent – doubly refreshing. Lift and beauty of sangiovese with that perfectly judged pH and sapidity raised by 10 percent canaiolo. The problem is this is the kind of sample that makes producers want to submit more of them and yet great showings like this from L’Erta di Radda are the few and far between. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Might come in thinking that tasting and assessing a 2022 and Monteraponi would not be a great idea in February of 2024 but this Braganti sangiovese shoots favourably straight out of the gate. A fulsome and handsome Radda as a varietal expression of fruit so ripe and unctuous you might consider drinking a bottle today. Surprising candour for a Monteraponi this early in its life but there it is, open and generous, social and genteel. Structured as well for many years to continue acting this way. Someone and something has surely softened. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra, San Casciano

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

For Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari the hope is to increase to a maximum of 12 hectares and 35,000 bottles. “This is our dimension,” tells Matteo. And drinking others’ wines is key because if you don’t know what you like then you don’t know how to get where you want to go. The 2022 Annata was just bottled six-plus weeks ago, on August 31st and so this potential hinderance is kept in mind. The first vintage for which a portion was aged in the used Stockinger cask and some more stem (whole bunch) usage moved from (normally 20ish) up to 50-60 percent. You can sense the energy and increased power but still there is a transparency and a purity of red fruit that will not be denied. Comparisons are futile but those who seek out this style in cru Barbaresco or Côtes de Nuits Premier Cru will latch on here, likely to never let go. Next level for Fucile and Vaccari. Don’t care how young this wine happens to be – the potential can’t be ignored. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: The tiniest of properties (one hectare) and smallest of productions (2,000 bottles) in San Casciano from Chiettini. A sample but one nose into this 100 percent sangiovese and you know you’ve found something meaningful. A wisdom in the wine born of great terroir and an agronomist’s acumen. The winemaker seems inconsequential or at least respectful to everything else. There is calm demeanour and a presence of freshness, soulful savour and weight without compression. Hard to know what it’s all about, but knowing more will be a next pursuit. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Luiano Chianti Classico 2022, San Casciano

As youthful as it gets for assessing 2022 Chianti Classico and in fact it’s hard to remember a vintage its equal. 2017? Not even remotely exactly. And yet the ’22 from Alessandro Palombo is a thing of San Casciano beauty, aromatically charged of local perfume with as much depth in red fruit as there can be. Clearly verdant as per the UGA’s way while the fruitiness marries happily and walks equally side by side. Merlot does indeed soften and alter the overall expression but why knock deliciousness? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Quite a taut and wound Annata for 2022 with the advantage of elevation next to woods for freshness and crispy preservation. Does well to foil the dried herbs, brushy savour and further aridity provided by austere tannins. Should all come together in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti’s Annata is just about as ready in youth as they come for 2022 and that is not something that can often be said. Duccio Corsini’s work in the river stone strewn fields and modern approach in the winery have been showing recent gains but they keep on coming for sangiovese (and five percent colorino) for immediately gratifying appeal. This will be ready to please in full by the fall of 2024 and with zero reason to doubt. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Blend is 90 percent sangiovese, (5 each) canaiolo and malvasia nera. A 2022 and so a finished wine recently put to bottle but still reductive, reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if hard to access because of extreme youth. Great potential lays ahead no doubt. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

One of the prettier 2022s at this earliest of stages because there is nary a moment of reduction, nor drying notes of any sort to distract. Aromatically open and still secure though no impenetrable fortifications hiding the beauty of fruit or potential of the wine. Traditional sangiovese plus two complimentary varieties for a Monsanto take of the estate’s specific corner of San Donato in Poggio so proximate to Poggibonsi. A full and substantial Annata with a high ceiling as an example set for the UGA and also the territory. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Le Filigare Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Stewed and reductive, nearly impossible to assess. Rich an chalky fruit, loads of acidity and tannin. So very sangiovese with a sapid strike by canaiolo and intensity (also for colour) by colorino. Return after two years in bottle. Tasted February 2024

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

No other Annata is field blend relatable as this from Quercia al Poggio with at least four additional varieties filling out the 80 percent minimum of sangiovese. A largest portion of (12 percent) ciliegiolo and bits of canaiolo, malvasia near and colorino add up to quite a fantastical mix that truly compliment, season, spice, elevate and lift this Annata. A truly fine ’22, rich enough but so complex and quite frankly just has to be the top this far for Vittorio Rossi and oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2024

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Large production from Vagliagli, wood dominant in resinous and medicinal aromas. Lacks some clarity because the winemaking clouds the source and the wine turns toasted and pruned towards the end. Drink 2024. Tasted February 2024

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Southern Castelnuovo Berardenga within the western Vagliagli wing savvy and seductive character, big on fruit though more restrained out of 2022 than before. Deep of inflections reddening to black though again there is a level of admirable restraint. Quite tannic however and so consistent with previous vintages there is a need to exercise some patience. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

CCC2024 at Stazione Leopolda

Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

The only Cecchi Chianti Classico produced as a négociant with some other Castellina grapes purchased for this Storia di Famiglia. The family wine, most distributed, easy to drink, just sangiovese and one that must be “a mirror to the vision,” inists Andrea Cecchi, which it clearly is in the most professional way. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Primecolle Villa Cerna 2021, Castellina

Primecolle, the first hill that you see coming in to Villa Cerna with a 360 degree panorama. The expression is not the same as that of Storia di Famiglia but still freshness and Castellina savour that comes from the local argilla soil. More terroir involved, a balsamico and identity that’s even a bit rustic, austere and stringent. Crunchy sangiovese however, with a more trenchant identity and one to really sink your teeth into. Drink 2024-20267. Tasted May 2024

With Enrico, Monica and Cosimo at Villa Pomona

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Pomona comes beauty and also love, of sangiovese (with just two splashes of colorino because it’s there) and who would not intuit that Monica Raspi has become one of this territory’s great instinctual makers of Chianti Classico wines. Rich and understated, unctuous, restrained and refined. Precisely Raspi, Pomona and this drift of a vineyard space in southern Castellina. Something about this Annata is just perfect. Last tasted February 2024

Monica Raspi’s acumen and comfort level have acceded the exceptional because she is passionate about making top echelon sangiovese as much as any winemaker, self-taught or not in Chianti Classico. The 2021 includes just five percent colorino, took 10 days to ferment and remained on its skins for somewhere between three and four weeks. This is a significant number, more prevalent in the region than it was just a few years ago and when managed right will transform Chianti Classico into sangiovese of the ethereal. A substantial, silken and seductive ’21 here from Pomona with its mix of sweet acidity and Castellina liqueur. The tannins are liquid Alberese chalky from a linear wine moving upwards and forwards in stride. This has the length and the balsamico specific to Pomona. A top body of Annata work from Raspi and just the sort of style to pass on to the next generation; Cosimo and Costanza. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

More richness and density than what we’re used to from a Lornano Annata, especially from one made with 100 percent sangiovese. Immediate warmth aromatically speaking and without pause to palate, nor as breaks in structure. A sensation of roasted nightshade vegetables and toasted meaty char. Would be a confusing wine poured in a blind tasting with some varietal examples from the southern hemisphere. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Chianti Classico DOCG Fonterutoli 2021, Castellina

Always traditional with a dried herbal, dusty and brushy component, but truth is the refinement in concrete really silkens and smooths out Annata for an enticing and getable drink now style. Challenging but conversely successful vintage because fruit stands up vertically with the gift from an outstretched sangiovese arm of immediate gratification. Top quality for the usually healthy production Classico for here, now and all to enjoy. Will show at its best a year from now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

For Giacomo the Classico is a “traditional blend and vinification.” Elevated and lifted aromatics from Castellina for Annata, aromatically charged, lifted, phenolic and allied to the palate with well ripened fruit. Sees time in Botti (Tuscan from near Ruffina) and Slavonian wood. Not so much a matter of volatility as about freshness, but a verdant stripe does run thorough the perfume’s middle. Cool, minty savoury, sapid and salty with a feeling of the endemic ethereal. Great curiosity and controlled intensity for Nardi’s 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted twice, February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Belcanto 2021, Castellina

A beautiful song indeed and so a Chianti Classico appropriately named delivers a thing of vintage beauty. Proficiently perfumed, spices piquing on the palate and strategically structured to create a wholly reasoned and seasoned sangiovese. The “other” varieties, whatever they may be and comprising 10 percent do right and well by this fine 2021. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico Casanuova Di Nittardi DOCG “Vigna Doghessa” 2021, Castellina

Campione: Single vineyard or cru example and a sample with the uncanny aromas resembling anise or black liquorice. No missing that as distinct as it gets and this despite the reductive nature of the wine. Needs several years to unwind. Not the finest tank or barrel sample drawn but there is some idea where this is gong. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo and colorino from the warm vintage down in quantity due to the April frosts, a year-plus spent in tonneaux followed by six months in bottle before release. That quantity was two-thirds of a normal production and concentration is surely above the norm in this 2021. Great acidity, highest level of the stuff and the fruit is ever-bearing ripe on the nose while tannins are overtly grippy and the wine needs another year in bottle to truly show its stuff. That said this will surely be the finest Annata from San Fabiano Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. February 2023 and February 2024

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Castellina vineyards primarily west of the village in a gully shaped like a half-pipe amphitheatre, an amazing Chianti Classico microclimate that gives a special purpose to Tenute Squarcialupi’s sangiovese. Add in the next generation ideas of Cosimo Bojola and the torch passing is in transition. This is the classic, clean and traditional Annata that carries the stamp of Tommaso Bojola but in 2021 the connection with son Cosimo’s winemaking wisdom is closer than ever before. Tenute Squarcialupi 2021 Annata stands up linear, vertical and to be counted. It should not be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Spices mark the aromatics, pique the senses, draw in the olfactory and take the stage. A force upon the palate, more spice circling through mouthfeel and some black cherry bitters clasp the finish. Traditional and serviceable to vintage. Last tasted February 2024

A reminder that the Ruspoli were a high aristocratic family from Rome though originally from Florence. The estate is co-owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and managed by Giulio Ruspoli since 1989. The 2021 Annata Classico is in fine shape, still chalky of tannins in the midst of its resolution and while it drinks well now (with some air), there are surely two to three years left for ongoing pleasure. Can’t see the fruit dissipating until late in 2026. Tasted January 2024

There are many, not all mind you but a great number of 2021 Chianti Classico in delivery of this silken, glycerol and so very modern character. That and a firm grip with high level acidity captured. A big wine this time from Lilliano, stylish, chic and strutting. Fruit set and connectivity are well aggregated though this won’t be one to age indefinitely. Drink in the near term. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cosimo and Tomasso Bojola – Tenuta Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

“L’Alta” Annata for Squarcialupi is this amphora indiction of indication that is simply the brainchild of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola. Connected in a most familial way to the other Classico but texture and mouthfeel are altered, transformed and transmogrified in the most religious way. The piety is born of sangiovese passion, to see through an ulterior if respectfully concurrent lens and the result is something emphatically restrained. Brilliance of red fruit purity with an underlying earthiness and brightness that supports the textural movements. The palate is aroused and the senses are piqued. Impossible to look or taste away. Last tasted February 2024

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Tommaso Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Indelibly stamped Carpineta style while so very fresh for 2021, truly bright of great breaths of Castelnuovo Berardenga air. Aged in tonneaux after cement fermentation and to say this was judged with fine precision would be paying close attention to Gioia Crest’s acumen and always consistent deft touch. Spot on for 2021 in so many respects. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wow the energy from 2021 Carpineta Fontalpino is off the charts, ergo there is this wide open sensation from Castelnuovo Berardenga that will not be denied. Fruit swells and impresses with its gingered-crimson beauty and the advances of egress by structural demand. While too youthful and awkward for all parts to hook up they will, in time, for all the right reasons and with zero regret. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big production of quality across the board, of fruit layered in a thousand ways, all working together for the most solid and qualitative expression of 100 percent sangiovese. Proper, correct and professional. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi – Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: High-toned, lifted, Alberese directed, sauvage of aromatics on display. A nosing of volatile compounds which are often part of the sample experience and one not wholly indicative of what the settled and cleaned-up finished wine will be. Losi’s sangiovese are exceptional for Castelnuovo Berardenga and this gives little insight into what they can be. Tasted February 2024

Nicely settling in 2021 Annata from Arceno, compressing and compacting as it plays upon the palate, though underneath both acids and tannins continue to work their magic. These recent sangiovese (with 15 percent softening merlot) have found their rightful place on the Castelnuovo Beradenga spectrum. They are as clean, modern and generous as they come. Last tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A vintage for which merlot at 15 per cent does wonders to install calm and roundness into San Gusmé sangiovese of dusty, drifty and instigative tannin. There is a swirl of red to purple berry liqueur in this high glycerol content of an Annata to take Castelnuovo Berardenga into another stylistic and one not often reached. Modernized, renovated and refurbished. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The traditional estate blend, with canaiolo, colorino and ciliegiolo to compliment sangiovese. Two to three weeks of maceration, at the longer end from 2021 and for Gaiole this is just so Monti relatable with just about a 10 percent accent by Vagliagli within Castelnuovo Berardenga. Fine acidity for this Classico that hints at though stays quite clear of balsamico. Certified organic by Delineat, a private agro-forestry network now recognized by higher powers. The discipline includes solar work, carbon neutral footprint and lower levels of copper usage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2021, Gaiole

Bertinga’s is expressly Gaiole, verdant of its greens and clearly an expression off of rocky soils. You sense the land in the freshness and clarity of the sangiovese. Truly crispy and crunchy, mineral and tannin streaking simultaneously in parallel lines and length unrelenting for as long as the palate would wish to keep tasting the wine. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2021, Gaiole

Only sangiovese and about as obvious as a Gaiole UGA produced example as could ever be. The mix of dried herbals and forest brush, über savoury elements and drying tannins all add up to the tight and taut sort of Annata Classico so many know well. This must be cellared for a year our two before flesh and fruit pulpiness can be coaxed out of the structured shell. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casa Al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Closed and tart, tannins very much in the way and an awkwardness at this early stage. A must return no sooner than one year forward. Indicative of the perils of showing cask samples instead of finished wines. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Real Monti in Chianti fixture within the Gaiole UGA with 2021 measuring 95 percent sangiovese, (4%) malvasia nera and (1) colorino. Noticeably reductive, intensity of focus and a Monti verdant quality captured to express terroir and also nature. Sifted softness owning the palate but also piques of spice and endemic character. Clearly a step up in quality and complexity for this truly historical estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

While the wines are really intense with extreme concentration there is some current difficulty to see them as pleasing. They remain a bit closed, especially on the nose but the potential for aging is great. Though it had been that way for some there were not great frost problems, Not just aromatic intensity but spice and attack on the palate, This strikes as something a bit difficult to drink at this time but the structure is surely impressive. This is Annata that would be Gran Selezione for at the very minimum another 150 estates. Last tasted February 2024

Extreme youth for a Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Annata and while this is a barrel sample truth is Luca Martini di Cigala’s offers up more fodder for assessment than many. This will be a most important vintage for two reasons. The first is quality and the second a matter of education, a view to master interpreter taking water (of Gaiole) and transforming it into wine. Not just Gaiole but a little peninsula between the arms of Vagiagli and Castelnuovo Berardenga on a promontory specific to San Giusto. Fine lines, angles and waves continually sweeping make this a most impressive Annata and one to savour for the next 15 years. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The work of Bruno Mazzoni whose maternal grandfather was producing wine here in Gaiole in the 1970s. Mazzoni started tarted in 2006 wth a rebuilding of the cellar, first produced Chianti Classico in 2012, but waited a few years to begin selling the wines. His 2021 is a new and very youthful vintage made by winemaker Maurizio Longi for a Chianti Classico that shows off the true character and nature of Gaiole sangiovese. Tension and yet a transparency because it’s a bit lighter (than say 2019 or 2016) but the potential for aging here is great. Crunchy and crisp, a wine you can grip between the teeth and bite down, then finishing with piques of energy and spice. This is a fine wine of purpose. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2021, Gaiole

Today Tenuta Perano has a distinct advantage and that is elevation. Ten years ago that would not have been said but 550m is no longer considered a cold altitude and so critics and consumers alike should no longer dismiss this place. At Perano the sangiovese matures on both ripeness fronts and does so at a markedly reduced crop per plant. Results are more than simply a matter and meter of concentration. Lamberto Frescobaldi notes how the Chianti Classico from this part of Gaiole are those of “severity and specificity, and it can be tasted in the wines.” It comes from agriculture and can’t be missed. That is if the winemaking is expressed with humility. The verdancy and freshness by elevation are Gaiole and they foil the substantial elements, namely fruit and tannin. All of this is raised to the highest degree in the Annata 2021. “Especially when the plantings are on cooler sites but you really have to be careful, to push the harvest later.” The conclusions are captured acidity and a lovely expression on the nose. “You may not like sangiovese,” concludes Frescobaldi, “but you will always be intrigued by it.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted December 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino of a deep Chianti Classico hue that Marco Ricasoli explains “is fixed by the Alberese. It’s the calcium in the limestone that really helps this process.” So different than sangiovese coming from Macigno (as a general rule) yet here the colour is full and opaque. Fresh vintage, substantial fruit, quantity high, all things a winemaker wants from Chianti Classico. Purity of aromas, linear of style, stony moments from start to finish. Just beginning to open up and really quite salty. Will surely see this last through the decade in a nearly primary state. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Surprising grip and structure here from Rocca di Montegrossi’s 2021 Annata, well not exactly shocking but this is a vintage wine quite far from readying towards release. Tannins are fine chained, grained, unbreakable and of a saltiness really connecting the mineral dots of this wine. Some canaiolo and colorino bring added seasoning and so sapidity is a thing. Crunchy for Gaiole and less herbaceous than most. Should begin to open in 18 months or so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2021, Greve

Oxidative and a touch cooked in spite of acidity running high. Ample if decent fruit quality though it will travel quickly to where it needs to go. Drink as soon as possible. Tasted February 2024

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Few (if any?) Chianti Classico sangiovese are augmented by the five percent mix of canaiolo and the rare canina nera, the latter of which has not been held with the greatest of reputation. Well, not since its popularity in the Middle Ages. Oft considered “a poor quality black grape that gives a terrible red wine with a dry and light flavour,” nevertheless here finding a way to elicit a positive effect. Winemaker Tim Manning has found the apex of excellence where fruit and acidity with that fineness of reduced sweet balsamic all meet and create a fine Chianti Classico 2021. Fine work no doubt. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2021, Greve

The three vineyards refer to Terreno’s Homefront Greve, across the ridge’s rift at Solano (also in Greve) and finally Montefioralle. This mix of three soils which includes Monte Morello, Pietraforte and Alberese makes for one of those Chianti Classico so well-rounded and thrice fortified. The palate senses three layers of stone bled sangiovese inter-connected yet here the air breezes through each and lifts it all together. Brava Sofia. You’ve found and created an ideal 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Torraccia Di Presura Chianti Classico DOCG Il Tarocco 2021, Greve

Big fruitful sangiovese from Torraccia di Presura, rich and suave, clean as a wet sponge wiping chalk off a blackboard which feels apropos because this is quite opaque and pitchy Classico. Ever so smouldering and shadowy swarthiness is ideal to break up the textural silkiness and remind us that sangiovese from 2021 and Greve is want to keep us on our tasting toes. This has much to give and give it will for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

The vintage is surely part of the equation but it’s almost impossible to believe that Lamole has come to this exquisite place. Perfumes as always present but tannins so very fine not just because of the sandstone but due to the maturity of the vines and the maker. Last tasted February 2024

Pure macigno (sandstone) terroir on terraces fully surrounded by woods and what is most essential in Filetta is the perfume that just has to come from Lamole. From 2021 a most proficient and promising one, an effortless exhale and a seamless transition to mimicry upon the palate. Well structured, so subtly chalky and a succulence meeting exuberance that is as much vintage as it is place. Freshness meeting concentration at the highest level. A complete vintage, needing not be compared to any other. We’ll think in these kinds of terms seven to 10 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Pastrolo 2021, Lamole

The newest (along with San Leolino) of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, from Lamole and a vineyard with unique geology, that being Macigno di Marne, a.k.a marine sandstone. Youthful and the oak flavours still act as a flannel blanket over the fruit but insists Giovanni Manetti, “it remains a question of time.” Second vintage of this label and destined to be a Gran Selezione when time, commissioned grants and the realization of a plan all come together in collective fruition. Average planting was back in the late 1970s with newer plantations going in. There were some mixed varieties, including canaiolo, trebbiano, malvasia and colorino. Meanwhile this is sangiovese, grippy, firm, austere and as they say, molto profumato. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2021, Lamole

Aged only in concrete, “The sangiovese just to show the Lamole terroir,” tells Susanna. “The vineyards at the top do this best.” Which means this deserves to be on the label, no matter the appellative level. No appropriation here, just heritage. The perfume is the crux and heart of this matter. Acidity too, running through like a fast moving stream over pebbles, all of which are felt across the palate. Just ideal freshness, “the beauty of the simplicity,” adds Susanna. So pure. Last tasted February 2024

From the highest vineyard between 600 and 630m for a varietal sangiovese that separates itself from Olinto because that label holds 20 percent merlot, though 2021 will be the last vintage. From what Susann Grassi calls the “crispy” vintage” which translates as freshness incarnate and a crunchiness to the seriously spot on pure red fruit. This is so precise and the Lamole perfume exudes out of every pore. Only see concrete and at Annata level for Lamole that is the exact and proper thing to do. Brilliant. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Jurji Fiore e Figlia

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Puntodavista 2021, Lamole

All of Jurji Fiore’s cru wines are vinified in the same way, that being 18 months in Burgundian barriques, 30 percent new. Vines are 50-60 years old so surely not 100 percent sangiovese near to Grospoli. A field blend from a vineyard that Jurji has been renting for 30 years. His next gen daughter Sara smells chiodo di garofano which is, but is not clove, either way its a spice from a dried flower seed that scents out from this Annata. The palate is also wild and leaping with a moment of swarthiness yet is quite perfectly clean for top shelf, fresh and exciting sangiovese. As fine an Annata as there can be and so perfectly expressive of modern Lamole’s potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Nonloso 2021, Lamole

The only cru that’s for sure 100 percent sangiovese because it comes from 20 year-old vines and is owned by the same farmer as Puntodavista in the Grospoli area. Lamole range, 18 months in three sizes of Bourgogne barrels, 30 percent new. The darkest and most intense because of recent clones playing a prominent role as compared to the others, also because those are field blends and representative of the traditional ways of the blending past. Same wood and timing but everything is elevated here, strung up inside a casing of acidity and an austerity of tannins. A sangiovese that needs time, to settle, for subsequent vintages to grow up, mature and join the balance that both Porcacciamiseria and Puntodavista already show. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Podere Castellinuzza – Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

Upwards elevation even for Lamole, here between 550 and 600m on two exposures, one to the east and one to the north. In this sense we are looking at the cooler meeting higher sector and so expect a different, more evergreen type of savour to exaggerate the Lamole perfume in a wholly other way. Freshness incarnate, no wood, only cement aging for 20 months and a true authenticity about the expression. Really pure, if you appreciate the way. Classic, naked Lamole Classico. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With La Famiglia Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano, Greve

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

For Verrazzano a complicated and in the end balanced vintage but who could have forecasted the restrained power and elegance. A 100 percent sangiovese vintage and one of somewhat shortened vindication to capture the grace and especially acidity of the vintage. A bit of maceration that hints at carbonic but no fizzy pulse. Almost a spicy sensation on the palate but really a matter of total energy. Bravo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Chianti Classico 2021 is an example of that rare occasion when savoury, or what so many like to refer to as balsamico richness defines sangiovese. In this case an Annata of layered red citrus fruit pulled from a plethora of estate Greve-Montefioralle sources, including several vineyards trained to Alberello. A heightened aromatic example for the vintage, balanced and delicate. Low quantity and highest of quality. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Altolà 2021, Montefioralle

Altolà, high elevation but from another UGA over there (that being across the valley in Montefioralle), but also a definition for the phrase “stop right there, at attention.” Another Villages wine but the paradox here is how the vineyard was in Panzano and after the UGA was created it fell under the auspices of Montefioralle. Clay soil with Pietraforte so very typically Panzano, darker of colour, fleshy, but with a fire touch. Closer to Nonloso than any of the other Lamole wines but here you have an old vineyard with other red varieties in the field mix. This is an incredible mix of the two, fleshy and rich yet lifted and elevated of incredibly sweet acids. Wow for a first vintage and so one can only imagine what’s to come. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Maurizio Brogioni Winery Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Just a healthy splash of early ripening merlot softens and sweetens the Montefioralle sangiovese for a clean, technically sound and in its finest moments, also soulful Chianti Classico. Plenty of barrel involved, creating a resinous and soya sauced effect but fruit is bold, strong and able to handle the wood. Works out in the end though caramelization is coming soon. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Montefioralle wines

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Some heat in the ’21 perfumes but also a spice cupboard of exotics sifted into a masala as seasoning for seriously ripe sangiovese fruit. The six plus four percent of canaiolo and colorino are not to be forgotten because like the spices they are stirred and integrated so very well for a fully emulsified Annata. There is some lift and then piques of volatility which add to the warmth and the mystique. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Crispy sangiovese with a soft middle provided by five percent merlot and a fine example of suave 2021 Montefioralle Chianti Classico. Rich and the sort you can sink your teeth into for pairing with proteins of equal steading. ‘Tis a healthy and substantial Annata no matter how you slice, braise or roast it. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Bonafide 2021 and exemplary varietal sangiovese from Panzano’s Cafaggio if one of the fleshier, riper and more glycerol examples. Tart and intense, acidity equal and opposing that fruit to carry forward all the way through. No hole or mid-palate fatigue but all in, all the time. A drink now and soon Annata with swagger and style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2021, Panzano

Small production of the etichetta label called Burrone, a gulch or a gully and the feel of gravity’s pull compresses to see this 100 percent sangiovese lay low in that depression. Not weighty per se but yet set in the lower reaches of brightness and energy. It’s a style for one that will age for a few years still. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Always tasted second to Filetta and though perhaps 10 years ago that may have been the opposite the change has come. Truly salty veins running through the flesh of Panzano, with thanks to the mix of schist, calcaire and the great power of Pietraforte stone. Hold this 2021 for another year. Last tasted February 2024

Like the Filetta di Lamole, the Panzano Classico was also bottled quite recently and is to be released in the Spring of 2024. A full on expression of the Classico for Fontodi from a vintage of everything; substantial fruit, quality and quantity, acidity at peak, generosity and potential. What more does there need to be? About as full and classic as it gets for this stalwart and even just that wee bit of Panzano swarthiness that give these sangiovese their intrinsic and inherent character. Caught with spot on simplicity and poise. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2021, Panzano

A factor of the blue schist makes the call for amphora and if your mind is open and imagination runs loose then believe that the perfumes and flavours are truly connected to the soil. Leathery chew with infiltrate freshness, cake and chalk, tannin and acidity. Spices run amok. Everything captured and preserved, life still laid out long ahead. Just a bit of residual CO2 wards ofd oxidation and allows for lower sulphites usage. Last tasted February 2024

The Chianti Classico that sees amphora, stainless steel and also French wood – but no Slavonian oak. The outlier and if it needs be said, the experimental Annata. That said it has evolved from its IGT (Toscana Centrale) origins and the soils are Pietraforte in this specific micro-climate (a cooler one) from which finer and dustier tannins come away. More about texture in Dino but this is also a bit of a crooner expressive of songs sung from its valley origins. Not a frost zone because it buds later and at harvest time there is the diurnal fluctuation from 30 degrees by day to 10 at night. Great but different acidity from Dino, sweeter but also a balsamic aspect. Unique Classico in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Three terroir collection of Gagliole’s youngest vineyards across their estates, a macro of balancing related to soils built on Alberese, Pietraforte and Galestro. Brings all elements to the table; phenols, dusty savour and a mix of Classico acidities. In this vintage the pick was relatively late (especially in Panzano), as late as October 21 and 22. A management of vineyards leads to a capture of freshness so essential for the Annata level of Chianti Classico. Gagliole gets it in the most croccante way. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Rubiolo is 100 per cent sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

No, 2021 is not readying for the open window. Not yet. The tannins are still chalky and firm, the fruit bright and clean but they still submit to the tight clasp that grips and holds. No lacking for flesh and weight but yes the crisp character is what we are waiting for. Last tasted February 2024

A low (450 quintale or 45,000 kg) production vintage due to April frosts though the quality was very high. Is 2021 the best I ask Iacopo Morganti.“Every time the last one has to be the best one…though 2021 is like 2001. Similar vintage, weather included but there was more production from 2001.” The style is similar, also colour of fruit, elegance, light and ethereal with purposed acidity. “In 2020 the fruit was darker, you feel more oak,” he adds. These ‘21s are typical wines as and for sangiovese. Pure, light and so elegant, bottled on the 21st of September. Hard to find a more amenably front-ended Chianti Classico but the tannins are still somewhat aggressive. Not Riserva in that sense because there is less flesh and body. Still this is a discreetly charming 2021 and a great wine to drink, whenever you feel ready. Aging will be somewhere between six and nine years, give or take and depending on the situation. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

This is truly a preview of the Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2021 because this is the vintage that will be poured at the Chianti Classico Collection held in Florence on February 15th and 16th. When frost struck the area on April 6th and 7th, 2021 Vicky Schmitt-Vitali said “Le Fonti is positioned quite open to the winds so most vineyards fared OK with the frost. Only one small patch protected by trees and bamboo at the bottom of the valley got freeze-burned. The other side of the valley got hit worse so we have to be grateful. Lucarelli (the small village in Radda just below Panzano) is always very cold and our tractor driver lives there and said that his house was minus six the past few nights. All fruit trees burned but his vines had not been out yet so he was lucky.” The result here is a top notch, clean, fresh and harmonious Annata that also happens to be a sangiovese of higher quantity than many out of the vintage. The acids here are just about perfect and the flavours are as enticing as they are diverse. Without a doubt one of the finest Chianti Classico ever made by Guido and Vicky at this appellative level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted January and February 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cosimo and Sebastiano Gericke – Fattoria Rignana, Panzano

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just a small amount of April frost damage happened in the lower part of the vineyards near the Pesa River but the rest of the higher reaches were unscathed and so quantity out of ’21 was fine, while quality ran high. Just stainless and concrete (no wood) for a truly fresh and sustainable Annata. The 15 percent canaiolo adds a dimension of sapidity as balance to what sensations high acid and saline sangiovese are want to deliver. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Beautifully settled sangiovese with that quick sapid kick urged on by five percent canaiolo. A lovely swirl of fresh and clean red fruit, unmistakable glycerol, late arriving acidity and nearly resolved tannin. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Taken from the largest parcel up the hill to the right of the church and no wood involved. Soft and suave, the silkiest Annata imaginable and one that coats the palate with its substantial fruit. Perfume and spice are Raddese, as is acidity, of course. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Intense sangiovese while also drying and tannic with potential to travel far and yet this is certainly not the early beauty of what came from 2020. More so a sangiovese of classicism that must have some time in the bottle before we know what will come. Great length here so there will be a future, that much is guaranteed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Quiet entry, reserved and not exceptionally fruity though a feeling of a place lurks in the shadows. Fresh, bright, clean and high acid. Not particularly fleshy, of lightning red fruit and satisfying. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Pure sangiovese, tiny production, tart, concentrated, verging on syrupy. Intensity of acidity and balsamico, a Radda stylistic magnified and hyperbolized for the world to see. Heart and sangiovese worn on sleeve. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Darker fruit adoration for the vintage owning to Castello di Radda’s south-central location within the UGA and the accumulation is duly noted. Levels of richness and yet this singsong quality that creates waves of fruit in and out of mild structure. Not the grippiest of ‘21s but one to enjoy in the near term. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Classic Colle Bereto Annata, more estate style than Radda which is not a massive shock from the vintage. Clean, crisp and what can be thought upon as crispy, no departure from the UGA in that regard but the precision and clarity is expressly Colle Bereto. Grande, Bernardo Bianchi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Belvedere Campòli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

As far as bottle quantities are concerned this is a tiny production of Classico sangiovese (with five percent) merlot. One that delivers naturally sweet red fruit and true succulence by way of equally delivered acidity yet without tension due ti never demanding tannin. Ever the slightest cherry bitters that dissipate in fade to finish black. What’s left is purity and grace. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Campione: Limited production, 100 percent sangiovese of San Casciano bones, saltiness and energy. Notable as always for the herbs and verdancy but this edges up in volatility before descending into its tannic well. Taut finish and in need of two years to settle. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

With Federica Capaccioli

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Dramatic and vivid Annata from San Casciano with all the wilds of soil, herbs, brushy plants and florals flying from the glass. The air is filled with orchids, violets, Macchia Mediterraneo, sweet sangiovese, Cassis bled cabernet and sapidity raising canaiolo. Top effort for the UGA with ample vintage personality. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2021, San Casciano

A 2021 and so a well and good finished wine not so long ago put to bottle but still reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if still a challenge to access because of extreme youth. Full disbursement of great potential lays ahead. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Clemente VII 2021, San Casciano

Nicely settled and so a wise decision to pour 2022 for the anteprima. Can’t miss the rye bread toast and verdant streak for a Clemente VII of more substance and rallying cry than many. Professional tannins present in the room are tied by acidity as catalyst and bind. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra Vigneti Branca ready for labelling

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2021, San Casciano

A single vineyard, 100 percent whole bunch, 35 days on skins macerated best parcel (of massal selection planted in 1972) sangiovese that is the first true experiment in the young winemaking lives for Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari. Reminds of the Annata in that transparency, purity and focus are all there but imagine more energy, vibrancy, power, grip and intensified, implosive tannins. And yet, and yet the push here is just a bit overarching because a minor note of green austerity does arrive, however fleeting it may be. Nevertheless this is the summit of the current pinnacle of the duo’s CdS success. Next is to see how they will go next level, because when the going gets “maniaci,” the “maniaci” turn pro. Bottled on April 14th, 2023. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Spicy aromatics lead the way for La Sala’s ’21 Annata, nothing unusual about it, consistent with previous vintages and the estate’s search for aromatics. What separates this vintage is the fulsome and glissade quality gracing the palate that presents more fruit in waves, swells and even this oozing kind of feeling that sangiovese can give. San Casciano gets neither more fruity nor modern in Annata than this. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2021, San Casciano

At this stage the ‘21 has now arrived as the finished wine it was intended to be. Hard to believe how much textural glissade, unction and modernity have accumulated in the wines of San Casciano with this by Mori Concetta right at the top of the list. Aromatically charged and perfumed with viscosity of fruit on the palate and liquid spice. Impressive 2021 from the man. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a compliment of other endemic grapes not only aid and abet but work so properly too create cohesion and define this special Classico from San Casciano. The breakdown of 80 percent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, (5 each) pugnitello and colorino is essential and creates a balanced 2021, of less tension than some but also pure without greens or greys mired in the void. A very successful and textured wine of silk and chalkiness for seven to ten years ahead. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Youthful to a great degree and a reductive vintage for the Monsanto Annata, still frozen in time with the classic località aromatics lurking in the shadows of this wholly structural wine. Always the small percentages of canaiolo an colorino bringing the sapidity and also the energy to sangiovese that feels like it’s always been this way. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

High tonality, glycerin, volatility and perilously up there at the edge of the precipice. There is some Brettanomyces in this 2021, nothing that distracts or detracts with any gravity but it does co-exist with the fruit. Chewy mouthful for varietal sangiovese of warmth and intensity that will improve with age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

“So far 2021 is the one that gives me more pleasure, with more complexity and density, even more than 2021.” Now well into his tenure and so Robin Mugnaini has a pretty keen sense of where he’s at with respect to Chianti Classico. Still 20 percent whole bunch and two moths on skins, to be released in a year and a half. Really clean, fruit at the top of this San Donato in Poggio game and purity as verity. These are powdery tannins trying to liquify and integrate but it really is just a kid. Richer than any that have come before and of a structure that will see this travel for a few years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Celebratory vintage fruit swirl arrives first for Il Poggiolino and then to mind comes the character that is intrinsically perceived as San Donato in Poggio. Of red fruit so amplified you’d think citrus was squeezed, calcareous stone was bled and the mixture reduced to a glissade of syrup. Just a quick note of Brett in the 2021, nothing serious or distracting but there it resides on the back palate. Does not mess with the tannins but there is a peppery warmth at the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four and a half decade tenure at Isole e Olena is this 2021, lower in sangiovese and conversely higher in canaiolo, because he knew the blend needed to up its sapidity game. The canaiolo raises pH and works with the other splashes (including syrah but also vials of mystery) to elaborate and elevate sangiovese’s salted-elemental game. De Marchi has hit the vintage nail on the head with a 2021 that shows its cards but refuses to lay them on the table. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist. He is the whooper swan and you pay close attention to the trumpets of fruit and clicks of acidity. Before too long the sounds will cease because there will be no more tannic threats and so both this 2021 and Paolo will move, embrace change and live on. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another matter for San Donato in Poggio and 2021 is this by Podere La Cappella because there is a sleekness and silken quality to the fruit. This is especially felt in the mouthfeel because the wine simply glides and slides across the palate. You can also feel the merlot in 2021, only 10 percent but so ripe and impressionable. Plenty of sweet and supportive acidity, fineness of tannins and just so much pleasure gifted overall. Not as structured as some recent vintages but seductive for the short to mid term. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Davaz Family – Poggio al Sole, San Donato in Poggio

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Poggio al Sole’s is Chianti Classico Annata aged in large format Stockinger Botti comes from a crossroads where San Donato in Poggio, Panzano plus a distinct profile that also draws from Badia a Passignano add up to one of the territory’s most complex sangiovese. An example with 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo that exhibits both salty and sapid elements for something that moves through many machinations. This is not to say that the extroverted PaS lacks precision because it is in fact finessed and pure, but there is so much going on that at moments its feels like energy running wild. Never thee mind because just another year and a half in bottle will see to all parts settling in as one. What Valentino Davaz calls “the business card,” accounting for half of the production in 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2021, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample from 2021 and this Ghirlanda is brighter, fresher and airier than its predecessor, but the bones and the verticality remain. The lift and high tone elevate a sangiovese that misses and wants for nothing, in fact it is so perfectly comfortable in its pliable if ageless skin. Annata worthy of a long life and treated with this level of respect which is incidentally incredible considering the other levels of Chianti Classic made at Bindi Sergardi. In any case this will quickly become brilliant Chianti Classico at the Annata level. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Indelibly stamped by Vagliagli and impressively consistent Annata from the Gnudi-Angelini family. May seem like a large bottle output at 170,000 but that is nothing compared to what it could be (without frost vintages) and in relation to other truly large production (a.k.a. commercial) wines. Nothing of the sort here but simply pure Chianti Classico softened and made colourful by five percent each merlot and colorino. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Complicità Chianti Classico DOCG Assolo 2021, Vagliagli

A small and protective amount of reduction which helps in dramatic ways because this Vagliagli Annata comes at the palate in waves. Fruit for the most part with underlying spice but do not sleep on the sneaky structure of this Assolo by upstart Complicità. Complicated in the ways of complexity and variegation, aromatically stunning and then intricately woven with flavours and palate textures. A discovery of the highest order. Terrific work for sangiovese that feels like sangiovese born of a family and their land. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole, Vagliagli

Dievole Chianti Classico Docg 2021, Vagliagli

Classic croccante sangiovese, rich if also herbal and brushy, a liqueur of red fruit that crunches when bitten. “The soul of Dievole,” says Stefano Capurso, representing the 700 hectares and 10-15 percent of that being vineyards predominated by sangiovese. Fermented in conical concrete (75 hL) and aged in botti only, no tonneaux nor barriques neither. A mix of all the terroirs and a philosophy led by agronomist Lorenzo Bertini that places soils microbes for maximum vineyard health to make sure roots dip deep for stones in touch with water. The land is a geological mix of Monte Morello and Macigno del Chianti (Sandstone), of clay, Alberese and Pietraforte. A combination of everything and the result is one of the most well-rounded Annata to be found anywhere in the territory. Do not hesitate because these sweet tannins and refreshing spice make 2021 ready for action. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Heady perfume so very Vagliagli but also the extras that five percent each colorino and merlot are want to deliver and infiltrate the sangiovese. Crunchy exterior and conversely chewy inside, like liquorice or al dente spaghetti with moderate structure for a few years of life though the best months have already begun. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Noting a change in direction with this juicy and fruit-centric sangiovese with five percent canaiolo that lowers the salty factor that is always a consistent part of Sparviero’s character. Wood not much of a factor to allow the freshness to shine, even out of a warm vintage that in many cases produced very dense wines. Not here and the final clocking is 13.5 percent alcohol. Last tasted May 2024

Canaiolo is used to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Baldoni Villa Rosa 2020, Castellina

Ribaldoni is the name of the river and thus the vineyard laid below and around Villa Rosa. A sangiovese expression of its own, combining the scorrevole of SdF and the croccante of Primecolle. An ideal and balanced mix in what is the most layered and combinative of the three, powerful yet restrained and still in a place that feels a few years away from settling in. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2024

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness. Tasted February 2024

Borratella Chianti Classico DOCG Insuella 2020, Gaiole

Quite upfront fruit, naturally sweet and teeming with red berries, nary a moment of tart or tang, soft and getable. The five percent cabernet sauvignon so very ripe in 2020 may have played a bigger part than its addendum might have suggested but there is no shortage of ease and playfulness in this ready to go Annata. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

The 2020 Perano has arrived, showing know what it was once shy to do. Perano is at its juiciest and gifted height, crunchy of fruit still fresh, poised and in control, now into the best the two three years to express its Gaiole character. Last tasted February 2024

You can always feel the white soil of Tenuta Perano and nowhere more so than from Annata level Chianti Classico. More than sangiovese with 10 percent merlot and (5) cabernet sauvignon for a silky smooth 2020 that wants to share its impression as early as it can. Cool and sappy, easy to understand and professional as they come. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

Notable Brett for Castellinuzza 2020, perhaps a sluggish transition to malolactic being the catalyst to seeing the microbes creep in. Good glycerol in the fruit, rich and calming nature noted for the 95 sangiovese with (3) canaiolo and (2) malvasia nera. Lamole perfume surely captured and so will deliver great appeal to those who can handle a little bit of naturally winking truth in their Chianti Classico. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

From the lower vineyard which means old vines at 550m, inclusive of a majority that are vines dating back to 1965. A mix of sangiovese (90 percent) and canaiolo, though there are some white grapes growing in the vineyard. Aging 50-50 in concrete and 500L French tonneaux for one year. “A very important vintage for us because it was the 400th anniversary of my family,” says Susanna Grassi, but no celebrations due to Covid, just a special bottling as Gran Selezione instead. Bouquet, acidity and though “lower” elevation for Lamole this is sangiovese that more than easily and credibly maintains the origins of Lamole. The bigger divergence here is vine age and so aromatic concentration is heightened, not necessarily freshness and brightness because this feels like a Lamole of more depth and breadth, but let’s be real. As fas as Chianti Classico are concerned this is about as fresh and crispy as it gets. Last tasted February 2024

The adage must always be repeated. The perfume of Lamole is omnipresent, all-pervasive and impossible to separate from the wines themselves. How and why? The answer is difficult to articulate though it is surely a response to the Macigno soils and the climate circulating in the UGA’s amphitheatre. Stand anywhere on the ring road between Casole and Lamole village and you may just feel as though you are in a rainforest. The sandstones mixed with calcareous rock just has to mean mineral transferral onto fruit that in turn scents floral. Not in the classic bouquet of flowers sense but as an example it is Terra di Lamole by Susanna Grassi that makes all this happen. Behold a sangiovese born in the shadow of the Monti del Chianti that shines in its own special way. Terra di Lamole – the land of the UGA, definite, elegant and full of grace. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Casaloste is Panzano but truth is Casaloste is Casaloste. The oenological and passion project work of Giovanni d’Orsi, self made, self-imposed and critically honest if also loving to work with sangiovese. The 10 percent merlot softens the seriousness and trenchant intention of Chianti Classico that as a wine can’t help but express the extensiveness and also the simple truth that is 2020. Bigger, darker and more intrinsic tannic value but truth is truth and Casaloste’s lets in the light. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The uncanny note of chocolate mint is there, unequivocally and especially upon the palate. On the nose as well as a reurn to the first addendum to the serious glycerols that thicken and silken the palate. There are many who will see and crave the seduction while others will feel too much wood. In the end and several years forward neither will matter and the wine will deliver a fine sense of harmony. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Tasted side by each with the 2019 there can be no missing the darker hue, stronger fruit and bolder notes sung by Vecchie Terre di Montefili’s 2020. It’s the vintage and also Panzano that create the unavoidable, each as forceful and imposing as the other. Then agin the trilogy of terroir, weather and place are intrinsic to the sangiovese that arrive each and every season. Big wine, tannins equal to the task and yet evolution will happen faster than 2019. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Cement vat spontaneous fermentation (always done this way, manufactured in Val d’Arno, now 53 years old) for 100 percent sangiovese. Warm summer vintage but for Caparsa at 400-450m still very fresh and well, classic. In a perfect window of opportunity at this moment. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The 2020 Classico is currently on the market while the soon to be bottled ’21 shows as an anteprima though that vintage, as firm and grippy as it may be will entice and delight sooner than most. In fact the 2020 is in nearly the same kind of place and so this tells us that. Monterinaldi’s position in Radda and microclimate produce wines like no other. Their wines move like the turtle, aging low and slow, even if they showed up ready and willing from the start. For Monterinaldi there was no hydric stress and the growing season delivered a consistent and constant five month phenolic development. This was a 35-40 day skin-contract maturation without worrying about extracting green tannins. Only six to seven months of aging in wood and this all adds up to doing things differently than many neighbours and other UGA positioned estates. Last tasted February 2023

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda location. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it can’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a candidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Cortedomina Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Lean, angular and tart, middle palate filled in and softened by 20 percent merlot. Not really tannic per se and easily ready for consumption. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Every year we take the fruit from the three vineyards and say, which one is the most Radda,” says Giacomo Castellani. Not necessarily the best one but the one that is most representative of Radda. The plots are Ginestraia and Olmo marked by stony terroirs of Pietraforte, Macigno and Pietraforte again, highest, mid-slope and in the newest vineyard. Lithe, transparent, ethereal and so floral. A sangiovese in which the sweet natural fruit and also acidity are seamless, together, one in the same. Don’t come here looking for musculature or verticality – that is not this Annata. This is the sangiovese you want to have a second glass and truthfully the bottle will easily disappear. Last tasted May 2024

Raddese from the start, acids singing, zinging and slinging the lightning red fruit to the fore. In youth clearly dusty while a clarity and purity exists in a vacuum where lightness mixed with barrel make for a truly spirited Chianti Classico. Expressly and dutifully Radda sangiovese. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A blend of parcels, many 25-30 years of age. Was a great spring during lockdown, long, sunny, pure through April and then suddenly cool and rainy in May. Then what followed was a variable, unsteady summer. Not the most equilibrium with late September cold and rain. Some difficulty in the selection because of differences in ripening. What does all that adversity, especially as it pertains to Radda add up to? Well, for one thing Roberto Bianchi’s Annata ’21 smells and tastes like Radda, transparent in its openness, cool, herbal and savoury. Truly, expressly, ostensibly and allegedly Radda with sangiovese born and raised in a very specific, high elevation part of Chianti Classico. Definitive, Macigno-stony and age-worthy, if not the fleshiest of them all. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 202o, San Casciano

Big fruit year and a sangiovese with 15 percent merlot (which also happened in 2015 and 2016). Chewy and with some stewed if also drying character that old barriques and the merlot conspired to deliver from a hot and bold vintage. This ’20 is already turning the corner into its next phase. Drink up! Tasted February 2024

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Truly low production for varietal San Donato in Poggio sangiovese and the warmth of 2020 juices the full extraction of blood orange for distinctive Chianti Classico. Pressed for success, macerated to gauge interest with all parts fulsome at the intersect of acid and tannin. Wait six months and drink for two more years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Casa Sola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

The blend is 90 percent sangiovese with (4 each) canaiolo and cabernet sauvignon pus (2) merlot. This mélange of grapes augments sangiovese but you simply can’t take the San Donato in Poggio soil and climate from out of this Annata. Warming and blood orange juiced, as sanguine as they come though neither hearty nor gamey. Crispy sangiovese, tart and high acid, classically styled of tradition and sense of place. San Donato as a UGA is the ace up the sleeve and time is needed to integrate the grapes and structural parts. Great strides taken from this estate. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Clearly and in this regard also distinctly San Donato in Poggio if edging towards the wood spiced and herbal side of the UGA. Yet another blood orange vintage and this is more than merely a trend, here a 2020 well macerated seemingly for two plus weeks or more to come away with this grand textural wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

The Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG (Older Vintages)

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Imagine the baseline and then the ceiling for Chianti Classico. Draw from as much experience as you have and then extrapolate towards the greatest of a vintage’s potential. Then put your nose into Castell’In Villa 2019. Everything rises to the surface and presents itself to be noticed. Note the calm, the precision and finesse, reach out and touch the fruit, recognize the quality and fitness of the acidity and realize potential, compounded in understanding after allowing the purity of the sangiovese to rest upon the palate. As near perfect and essential as it gets for Castell’In Villa without boundaries or limitations. Last tasted February 2024

Leave to Castell’in Villa to do not just the right thing but carry the weight of necessity and hold back Annata to a point where it can be tasted and assessed with the respect it so richly deserves. Though this Castelnuovo Berardenga estate and their historic vineyards are equipped to create magic in the most challenging of vintages, well when a season like 2019 is gifted then the magic turns to the supernatural. Fruit is everything, as it must be and the aspects of climate, fermentation, maturation and all the accruements of seasoning add up to a speciality as no other Chianti Classico will create. This is a very special vintage of Castell’in Villa and one to rival any Riserva or Gran Selezione made in this vintage. Will live in infamy. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted February 2023

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2019, Lamole

Surprisingly tannic, still in a state of structural fortification. Though the predominance of crispy sangiovese is what occupies our thoughts the rocks and stones are by far the strongest players. Last tasted February 2024

The top “tier” Annata in Susanna Fabbri’s range is this main terroir sangiovese, the Terre di Lamole. Lamole at heights, in hyperbole, expressive and of course, so very perfumed. A veritable potpourri of Macigno del Chianti and all the florals imagined, tied up in one red petalled, native herb and mineral bouquet. Grace and understated charm, seamlessness and the sort of structure that build and builds but does so without mortar between the stones. Natural and beautiful. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted March 2022

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Can’t miss the terroir, bosco and micro-climate in the 2019 varietal sangiovese by Vecchie Terre di Montefili. In fact the troika comes to one decision, effect and result for a verdant and silken Annata that speaks to the ease and fullness of the vintage. Just that correct amount of swarthiness and verdancy, an evergreen streak and fineness of acidity that are purely and unequivocally Panzano. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2019, San Casciano

Showing some maturity or rather this sangiovese has matured to a point where the producer is comfortable with its release. May be 2019 and so not a true 2024 anteprima but instead an Annata that has shed its shackles to now be expressive of its San Casciano origins. Balanced in mid weight, tart blood orange juiciness and no lack for shilling a high level of continuing grip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Casanova 2019, Vagliagli

The first of three sangiovese under the auspices of the cru project to feature the sensitivity of the variety to different soil conditions. The sensation gained on the nose from Casanova is something very red, part fruit and part mineral from a Macigno soil. Makes for a gentle, restrained and finessed Classico, “reminding me of the sangiovese made in the 1980s” remembers Stefano Capurso. Blood orange bled from clay, linear as a factor of the stones in the small 2.5 hectare sandy vineyard and easy in terms of concentration. A lovely mid-term ager as a pure cru-focused sangiovese. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Catignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a round hill of 20 hectares facing full south, direction Siena. Calcareous Monte Morello soils with the clays and a windy place. A place of slow maturation where warm days and cold nights alternate. A different expression especially as compared to the Casanova, bigger, broader and yet spicy, of dusty and balsamico acidity. Plenty of lift here and it announces itself with a much noisier voice while the palate is richer and the texture thickens upon the palate. Second vintage of this cru, just about ready to go with only six months or so needed to get there. A bit austere, more so than Casanova and Petrignano. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a vineyard at 350m, fully on Monte Morello formations, dual hillside site with Alberese more to one side and so there are two sides of this wine. Made in the same way as the other two Classico cru, from oak tanks to botti. Of the three cru wines it is Petrignano that holds the most concentration beautifully offset by high ranking and very sweet acidity. It feels like Petrignano is the one to pour for a consumer who wants these layers of complexity and richness. Holding its form quite well. Last tasted February 2024

Petrignano is what Dievole assigns the lede of “a nuova voce del Chianti Classico,” a new voice, especially at the Annata level. The Gran Selezione is from Vigna Sessina and here 2019 is spoken through the younger vines and more precocious if not fully yet understood vineyard of Petrignano. Certainly a fresh and savoury Annata, sour citrus chalky and very primary. Almost nouveau but without the carbonic yet still this is as light and potentially sumptuous as it gets. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted February 2022

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Reductive and conversely yet also complementary traditional, of mature fruit subjected to early oxidation as a protection against hasty advancement and then retreat. Bucciarelli’s pure sangiovese does in fact exist in a vacuum with elevated volatile acidity and a modicum of Brettnomyces though neither push the limits of danger. No in fact this 2018 is Chianti Classico so well structured to defy age and see aging as a necessary condition for what it shall become. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Third vintage for Sophie Conte’s Annata from a wet and challenging year because of clement weather and disease pressure. Cement ferment followed by barriques (already quite old) and also tonneaux, for a year. Leaner yet just about as rigid still, as noted in the 2016. Consistent with 2016, wood on top, toasty, of orange skin, citrus and wet stone that sangiovese will show in certain vintages. Still pretty tannic and again, really curious to taste when you consider how much will have been learned and changed by the time Sophie Conte gets to 2022. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Not the greatest of vintages, especially at harvest and Dario Faccin has known this, but his opinion has changed after a few years of aging. Like 1996 (especially compared to 1997) and namely because the tannins are persistently fresh. A slowed down maturation in September and into October is the reason. Yes it was warm every day and yet cold at night and yes there is some maturity to the fruit but the tannins are so refined. Aging in big botti has only helped these beautifully soft tannic sensations gained on the palate. Acidity kept and balance afforded for a great result. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage of pure sapidity for Carobbio and Panzano, namely because of the late warm vintage conditions mediated by cold nights but mainly due to humidity through mineral accumulation in Galestro soils with shards here and there of Calcari and Pietraforte. Length is Cariobbio length, seemingly never-ending, glorious and rising. Grande Dario and team, this 2018 will live as long as any Annata in the territory. Vintages from the 80s, 90s and also those early in this decade have paved the road for an Annata like 2018 to live a very long life. Tasted May 2023

Then comes along Carobbio with a wine older than almost any other Annata in the collection and yet even from 2018 this sangiovese has yet to hit its stride. Dark fruit of baritone voice and depth puts this in unique territory and it would seem the grapes were mainly picked later, after the two day heat spike at September’s culmination. That said low nighttime temps kept the acidity and so 2018 from Carobbio should age as well as any Riserva and many Gran Selezione from the vintage. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, San Casciano

High level aromatic vintage for La Querce Seconda’s Annata 2018 because of heat accumulated through many days of temperature adding up to this. Major lift and smoulder but also a small percentage of Brettanomyces. A bit distracting to be honest but all is fair in love, war, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Castellina

First real vintage for Sophie Conte, no temperature control and longer (20 day) fermentation than what’s happening today. Cement, followed by barriques (already quite old). Holding court and hanging well though you can feel the wood. The notes are balsamico, liquorice and chewy leathery fruit and the wine is clearly more interesting now than it would have been in its early years. “Pouring you this wine is like showing you a picture of myself in high school. It’s a little bit weird,” says Sophie. Regardless the DNA of sangiovese grown at Tregole is what the picture shows. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2016, Greve

Bruised and oxidized. Tasted February 2024

I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2012, Lamole

“What I remember is a nice harvest in Lamole,” says Susanna Grassi. “A regular vintage.” Aromas are mature and the palate is über fresh, full of energy, revitalizing for sipping and also expressive of the Lamole perfume. Cool, ethereal, ever so slightly salt-inflected and purposefully proper. An expression of culture and the story of old vines in an old vineyard. With a wedge of aged Parmigiana from a special breed of cow there become this exotic mix of acids and cultures that bring it all together. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOC 1969

DOC World: The annunciation of a document eventually to become the DOC; the Chianti wine famous worldwide. Just 356 years after the height of Niccola Capponi’s life and a time when the “Modo di Fare Il Vino Alla Franzese” was the winemaking order of that day in Firenze. Sixty years after Torquato Guarducci and the announcement that quality mattered little for merchants, so long as the bottle said “Chianti.” Piero Capponi was at the lead of changing this and was one of the 33 producers that created the consortium in 1924. Eight years later in 1932 the “Classico” is added, to distinguish the original Chianti delimited by Cosimo de Medici in 1716. Full on mushroom consomée at this stage 55 years after vintage, a porcini broth with drops of citrus and so fully balsamico-forest floor. Smells like chestnuts and yes the 50,000 bottles produced were fermented in chestnut wood vats. Can’t miss the linger of natural sweetness. As for the grapes involved, well that’s open to interpretation, especially considering some various red and white grapes were surely involved, including those from vines put in that had recently arrived from the Florence nursery without labels (due to flooding). Never mind because the acidity and persistence without absolute death is so bloody impressive for a Chianti Classico from 1969. Tasted May 2024

Dinner at Fizzano, Rocca delle Macíe

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Though 2022 is such a fine, amenable and drinkable vintage and 2021 more compacted in so many ways – well when you make a cuvée of all your Castellina estates and choose only the finer grapes – you can make a very proper and promising Riserva. Cool, just a kiss of wood and saltiness, violets and a bit of rounding softness from cabernet sauvignon. Sees 12-14 months in barrel and comes away rich, nurturing and silky smooth. For now and a few years but not much longer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Bottled in November of 2023 and slated for imminent release. Floral yet reserved aromas and unequivocally sangiovese. La Riserva ages in (old) tonneaux of 700L and barriques. More brightness and freshness than the lion’s share of this appellative level in Chianti Classico, crisp and crunchy for Riserva but ultimately a matter of a specific vineyard, planted in 1985, as in the lower part beneath the younger vines. The warmest location where Ginestra blooms earlier and the fruit is saucy, a salsa of sangiovese, “sucoso,” the juices running from rare roast beef. But also blood orange and so a pulpy sensation. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Sample from Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano but my goodness what freshness, spirit and energy from Riserva 2021. Flies from the glass and grabs the senses by the tips and will not let go. Substantial does not begin to describe the feeling or do justice to assessment from what will surely become one of Luca Martini di Cigala’s long-lived and essential Le Baròncole to pour and revel in for a decade or two forward. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Also oxidative, lustre lost and energy waning. Hard to taste and assess late on day two of an Anteprima. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Vineyard at Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Purely from Galestro soil planted in 1968, lower down than the Pietraforte soil with five percent canaiolo field blended in the vineyard. Ages in large cask (only Stockinger) for 16 months followed by three in bottle. Almost seems better to compare this to 2021 Retromarcia (committed to memory) than the other ’22 wines because the vintages at Monte Bernardi are so very different. Though this may have shown like a closed stone (a Schmelzer quote) it still would have been more open then the 2020’s and is surely now come further as a result of this vintage’s progression. Generosity and energy, subtle “sfumatore” aromas and flavours here, there, in nooks and crannies, a Macerazione Piedmontese, 45-50 days post fermentation (60 total) on skins. The epitome of scorrevole. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sa’Etta 2021, Panzano

Purely from Pietraforte (sandstone) soil, higher up than the Galestro and while the vineyard houses five percent canaiolo it is not included in the Sa’etta Riserva. Ages another year in bottle, nine months longer than the (Galestro) Riserva. Is this similar to the sister Riserva? The short answer is yes because the long maceration creates the texture and the palate succulence but the tannins are longer chained, shadowy in their aggression and attention but also so, so refined. Bigger and broader sangiovese as Riserva for 2021 though purity begets fineness and then bequeaths potential. Tasted again, February 2024

Sa’Etta the block, planted in 1968. Sa’Etta ’21, well it would be hard not to be seduced and hypnotized by the beauty of this wine. Precision, clarity, focus, purity, style, grace, elegance – all of the above. Sees two years in 3000L Stockinger (Austrian Botti Grande) and comes away in the most vertical way. A mix of substantiality and weightlessness for sangiovese (with five percent canaiolo) so well adjusted to life as the varietal pillars they are, in this historic vineyard, as they are known. Vines as the Stonehenge of Panzano, in appearance and for the timeless Riserva they deliver. Drink 2025–2035. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

The opposite of light and juicy but looking for elegance through aging 16 months in tonneaux for the sangiovese and barriques for the merlot, on average 50 percent new. Outstanding vintage says Barbara Widmer, as opposed to ’20 merely being “good.“ But they are one in the same in many ways, acidity still thriving, fruit full and substantial, tannins very much in charge. True Riserva style, always and seemingly forever. Last tasted April 2024

Brancaia Riserva takes off where Annata leaves off and seems a bit agitated at this early stage. Even with 20 percent merlot there is an uneasiness about the sangiovese and this may not be the best time to seek the truth. Nevertheless the 2021’s lift, heft and breadth indicate a swirl of substance in fruit that precedes structure, while power knows how much it’s in control. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Riserva 2021 does by Albola what ’22 Annata could not but we know that the comparison is simply unfair. Nothing against the next vintage and a sample or just bottled wine is a tough nut to crack but this, this 2021 is a lovely wine. A Radda speciality from a top vineyard of impressive elevation, slope and exposure. The sangiovese it breathes from the high quality, low quantity vintage is equal parts fruit freshness and sweet savour. Acidity follows suit and then softness remains. Drink soon! Drink 2024-2026. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a pure red cherry fruit and simply structured Albola with early accessibility from a vintage much restricted in such matters. This is clearly designed to be purchased and cracked with haste to seek immediate gratification. Simple and proud. Well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Campione: Perfectly intact place, tact and effect as Riserva from Diego Finnochi at L’Erta di Radda. There is no doubt this sangiovese (and note no canaiolo in the Riserva) has many more acts and scenes to play out, but even at this earliest of early stages it is expressive of the concepts, ideals and plans that nature, the maker and life have in store. Amazing fruit quality, purity and succulence with acidity so Radda and ripe for these vineyards. Preferably speaking the time to drink 2021 would be three years forward but those who find bottles will have a hard time waiting that long. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Campitello 2021, Radda

Campione: Oxidative, soured and overtly tang-inflected example which means the end of a bottle on day two is no way to taste and assess a wine as important as this. Tasted February 2024

With Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020

Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Cerna 2020, Castellina

From the “Primocolle,” the first Villa Rosa hill comprising two vineyards, Solatino and Solare, for Riserva. A mix of luxe and savoury for what is ostensibly terroir relatable Riserva. Much more specific to its two part sense of place then say five years ago and so more focus at this stage of its tenure. Chewy fruit, somewhat leathery, indicative of Primocolle and exaggerated by the warm vintage. Also an herbaceous quality which is also a matter of how the hill translates sangiovese. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Pomona’s Cosimo Selvi, Monica Raspi and Enrico Selvi

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Pomona L’Uomino 2020, Castellina

The artist formerly known as Bandini is not a Riserva of selection but one made from all the grapes picked out of the single Vigna Pomona. The fantasy name “L’Uomini” neither denotes uomo della strada nor uomo d’affari but definitely uomo d’onore and uomo alla mano because this Riserva cares. The vines would have been 23 years of age for this vintage and the resulting wine is spicier than the Annata, but also exhibits an exaggeration of the local balsamico. A kind of resin in there, a natural cure, savoury and like incense some might say. It is the strident and taut character that defines what’s really going on though this shall pass. Yet another example of just how well 2020s communicate and explain their potential. Slow development ahead and in the end will be a vintage held in great esteem. L’Uomini is not a man of the street or just about business. He is friendly and wears a badge of honour. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Ser Lapo 2020, Castellina

Ten percent merlot rounds out the sangiovese but also lends a bolder character, darker of fruit and quicker to the conflagration of alcohol, body and depth. The result is a Riserva that comes at you straight away in delivery of a warmer and more direct to palate vintage-relatable sangiovese. Riserva of a replicate kind, from nose to nose, sip to sip and middle ground structure so very easy to assess. Drink this now or hold for two to three years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

“The Riserva is our diamond, in general,” says Giacomo Nardi, a reference truly applicable to his new vintage that is 2020. Same postcard of Castellina and the best selection of 100 percent sangiovese chosen from four parcels within the 10 hectares of the planted vineyard. Picked in and around the 10th of October, refined in Tuscan wood. A matter of elegant tannin following a local balsamico nose, a particularity of Tuscan wood and Riserva in the Nardi style. Riserva that captures sangiovese at peak no matter how late the harvest might be and that is truly important. Impressive acumen, protective fruit under a shaded canopy and gut instincts at harvest time to be followed for successful results. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

A good example of a sample, rich and my goodness the fruit and tannins are exceptional, full, established and intertwined. The potential here is positive and one could imagine that the next one for Sophie Conte’s 2021 Riserva will be unlimited. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Il Grigio 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is some peppery character especially on the aromatics and all the while the spices plus balsamic elements are consistent with the Annata, both from 2020 and 2021. Fruit is the same sourcing as the Annata but here the substantial quality by selection and extra aging in wood (mainly Botti Grandi, none of it new) means more weight and texture. Glycerol now, a silky-smooth elixir with chic style and more variegate tones. Ambient and plenty of succulence. Good structure from 2020. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arturo Pallanti, Lorenza Sebaste and Marco Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2020, Gaiole

Not atypical for the vintage and as Riserva the Montebuoni 2020 is so representative of all that is suave, stylish, ripe, fresh and free. The selection of fruit, warmth of weather, extra six-plus months of aging and finally appellative conditioning all add up to soft, mature and sweet endowment,. Not many reasons to wait or stack these away on the racks or in diamonds of the cellar. This is a vintage to drink, now, soon and with gratifying expectation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

A beautiful harvest balanced by the last part of the summer with good morning temperatures and a reminder that the winter provided more snow than any season in the last 20-30 years. This is Riserva with a good balance between body and acidity. Luca’s nephew Federico sees both the ’20 Riserva and Percarlo as good as any that have ever come from San Giusto. He is correct when he comments about a balance that will endure. Last tasted February 2024

Barrel sample and the youth of this San Giusto wine is something too behold. A fortification equal to both Siena and Firenze combined. Le Baròncole is serious, stone-faced and impressive. My goodness. Score and full assessment reserved to a much later date. Tasted February 2023

I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Heady and lifted aromas, spicy, intense and certainly a level of sauvage. More substance and layers of fruit than ever before. Tang in ways no other Gaiole sangiovese will show, no matter that 10 percent of softening merlot should round out the wine, especially at Riserva level. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A combination of frescezza and warmth with fruit that yes is fresh but there is both weight and tension to this Riserva. Truly appellative, very wisely and obviously Gaiole, rich and yet vertical, tight and still fleshy so that you have to see this as generous. Top drop for La Montanana between 2015 and 2020. Last tasted December 2023 and February 2024.

My what a lovely Riserva! Fruit succulent and sweet and swirled so effortlessly into equally mouthwatering acidity of pitch perfect tone. Yes there is Gaiole savour and it’s presence is as a seasoning, with chef’s ability, emotion and touch. As for 2020 well this from La Montanina delves into passion and the aforementioned emozione as well and as much as any Riserva in the Classico area. Brava, Oretta Leonini. Grande Gaiole! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

Google the words Perano + Gaiole + Chianti Classico and the first result should very well be “Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva Docg 2020, Gaiole.” Inescapable essence of Perano, essential sector of Gaiole and established representative of Chianti Classico. This is Riserva, a selection from the 90 hectares encompassing much of the estate, creating a sum total so substantial to see this 2020 as spokeswine for this agricultural place. Properly reductive while luxe and forward because in this case selectivity begets seduction, balance and structure. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

Campione: A sample, lifted, high spirited and high elevation Greve raised for sangiovese that’s in a league and class of its own. Richness and a swirl of fruit meeting wood that only acidity can tame. Its does and there is a low level amount of Brettanomyces that distracts. Tannins are a touch brittle as a consequence. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

The first vintage where this is a nice percentage of sangiovese from Casole (out of the Lamole UGA) and yet another warm vintage. Once again it is that fruit that brings the lift. That and the small amount of whole bunch which winemaker Manfred Ing says “I can smell it” and you know something, he’s absolutely right. Crunchy Riserva or as they say, croccantezza, layered like the Annata with the volume turned up, oak usage not so, fruit more perfumed and again that lift which is so important. The delicate nature and delicacy of sangiovese is respected and preserved, the drink-ability factor as high as it has ever been. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Riserva is a thing of beauty and richness from 2020 for a vintage of raw power though with this sangiovese Verrazzano finds both restraint and controlled nervousness. The acidity is just about as well captured, preserved and musical as it gets for both appellation and vintage. An indication of present tense Verrazzano with this nervosity that’s never over the top or in danger of crossing into next level territory. The age worthiness of 2020 is tops. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Showing vibrant and racy today, a really great place for Riserva, any Riserva that is but add in the current day trenchant intention to make fresher and cleaner sangiovese. Crispy if you will, dictated by the Pietraforte of these southeastern hills of Panzano. The 2020 has found its way and the window is now open. Will stay in this ideal drinking state for four to five more years. Last tasted February 2024

Eight months later and Iacopo Morganti exclaims “Molto Buono!” The wood has not fully integrated, nor was that expected but now the aggressive aspects are relenting and the fruit-acid relationship is developing into the extraordinary. Another eight months and this will enter the “zone.” Tasted October 2023

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Al Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

La Riserva is a factor and a child of vintage warmth, nurturing and in Le Fonti’s Panzano hands it comes away finely tuned. A full fruity expression with profound acidity and long chains of sangiovese tannin. The 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot do effect the outcome but in these vineyards they act more Panzano than varietal when used as salt and pepper seasoning. Length is outstanding which speaks to a potential that will mean longer age-ability than many by this Riserva’s peers. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Led by sangiovese with 15 percent cabernet franc, mainly chosen in the vineyard because explains Cosimo Gericke, “over the years I know the vineyard and which ones produce the best sangiovese.” Spends two years in small and also large wood (Slavonian botti) but the barriques are being phased out in these years. Dark fruit, rich, deep and yes it’s a woody example of Riserva but it’s suave, mature, experienced and so very real within this kind of style. Full and substantial wine with really soft and fine tannins. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2020, Radda

When when you take a sip of sangiovese and think aloud “wow, that’s pretty good,” well then something special is in the glass. Riserva Poggio Croce is a veritable glide of sangiovese in tutto, clear, present, clean and giving. A touch of residual sappy oak persists and will need to resolve before this as Riserva feels in touch with Poggio Croce and this unique part of Radda. That said the 2020 is not as big a wine as many in the territory, which is to say something very positive about what the (new) team is after. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Famiglia Cianferoni – Caparsa, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2020, Radda

Doccio a Matteo meaning the “spring” comes from the same vineyards as the Classico but as a selection because the top and bottom sections mature differently. The Riserva may not be the “freshest” but they are the best grapes that can be harvested. Includes three percent of colorino and aged in grandi botti of 1000L size. Calm and subtly fortified, open-knit and generous. Already there and will hold for several years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2020, Radda

The Caparsino always needs more time than both the Caparso and the Doccio a Matteo. Needs hours of air bit Paolo Cianferoni can’t explain why. Tannins surely, tighter chained and layered. These are chewier tannins and the only wine that’s simply not ready to drink. Rustic perhaps but when things stretch and elasticize there will be no shortage of penance served and southwestern Radda on offer. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Riserva comes from the steep 1974 vineyard to the left (north) of the house planted by Roberto Bianchi’s father Giorgio, aged for 30 months in botti and tonneaux. A true single plot that may or may not as well be wink-wink, nudge-nudge Gran Selezione. Cool and ethereal like Annata 2020 with some spice cupboard arriving at the same time as the tannins for that unresolved protein powder feeling. Still it is understood that Val delle Corti’s sangiovese are youthful, fresh, crunchy and tart. Full and corpulent with potential being the thing about this 2020 and what’s required to see it open three years later before beginning to tell its true story. A bit raw or “crudo” at this stage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Sample of sweet fruit, closed and intense with early the operative to sense and feel what’s coming. Tannins locked in tight with our palates bracing for impact. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Richness incarnate, soft, billowy and downy texture but high ranging acidity puts the Gabbiano Riserva in a fine state to impress. The expression is pure richesse, velvet mouthfeel, sleekness and beauty. That acidity is the driver and will keep the flow, but also spirit alive for a few years yet. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Tignanello 2021, San Casciano

Honestly speaking it would be hard not to recognize the hundreds of years of heritage and history in a wine that bears the name of the Marchesi. Not feeling the experience would not be paying attention and not seeing the professionalism would indicate a journalistic lapse in judgement. The 2021 Riserva is sleek (from vineyard) and sturdy by design. Vertical vintage, lower in quantity to a degree and higher in phenolics to a fault. A good one that is. Sangiovese con altre varietà complementari, part endemic and part expatriate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2021

The Villa as Riserva is a great compliment to the Marchesi, not grossly different but less of a linear, structured and age-worthy wine. Swifter and sweeter in the natural fruit sense, swelling with glycerin and pectin invoking flavours. This is the one that imagines so much fruit and generosity in the easiest of drinking ways. Truly getable and as Riserva bridges the gap between Annata and more elevated if also serious appellative examples. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

A few more points of merlot than the Annata, up to 20 percent here and a dusty, also slightly musty Riserva, though acidity is quite fine. Two years in barriques but also the 3000L Grenier botti. More energy than Anaata but also more savour and verdancy. Drink over the next two years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Cortevecchia 2020, San Casciano

As with Le Corti Annata the wines see 27hL casks and colorino is used, “only for the tradition.” The Cortavecchia is intrinsically connected to the Annata, they are brethren and the selection between one and the other happens after fermentation. First comes the spezzaturra and then the division. The river stone soil earthiness is carnale not animale and from 2020 there is more flesh and body then before. This means more settling and grounding but also roundness than what happened in 2018, but also surely what will come from 2021. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: A sample though surely as close to the finished product as it will get for this 100 percent sangiovese. Hard not to note and feel the commodiousness of the vintage, from fruit phenolic in its well developed ripeness, acids fortifying, tannins stronger than ever before. Harder to express the vineyard (Alparco) and more challenging to shine a light but this is Emma and San Donato so be sure to taste the sanguine orange ornateness of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

While there have been several warm vintages over the last five or six for Chianti Classico there are few that deliver this combination of concentration juxtaposed against such a high level of tannic command. The ’20 Riserva is essentially immovable at this early stage and should rightly require 18 further months to shed some of its assigned consignment, to unburden, lighten and be set free. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Somewhere between six and seven thousand bottles are produced of this 100 percent sangiovese, from several vineyards and so the cuvée is indeed a selection. Definite spice cupboard of aromatics, coriander and ground red pepper, red fruit powder and then more attention paid because the wood is strong early on. Will be needing some time to liquify the chalkiness and emulsify into the textural fabric of the wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico La Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Really unique for Classico and also San Donato aromatics, somewhat herbaceous, lifted and floral. Definitely salty while well-seasoned, namely with white pepper and a curious note of mirto. Quite a swath of unresolved wood and very much a thickened texture. As Riserva and especially San Donato goes this will need and benefit from time in bottle. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Vineyards are 24-25 year-old for Riserva with some (25 percent) new barriques used for aging. Soft yet elastic tannins equip this 2020 for deeper term aging to the end of its first decade. Once again it is a matter of vintage and this one will see Riserva last several years longer than the Annata. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample and always Calidonia – Calidonia, the three vineyard (Vigna della signora Chiara, Finocchi and Perone) from Mocenni estate as Riserva that is the sangiovese incarnation of its maker Alessandra Casini. A Riserva of grace and fluidity, of movement as if feet do not touch the ground and corporeal body gliding effortlessly across the palate. The wine senza sforzo nel movimento, still in youth with wood purposed and informing fruit to come for the soirée and stay for the pleasure. As do we because the ingredients will eventually emulsify into a fine varietal salsa. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2024

The women of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castellina

What a change from year to year, still under the guidance of Franco Bernabei, still some salinity but the sappy quality is gone and now the sangoivese has some backbone. Structure is now part of Riserva’s world and in turn our experience. Last tasted May 2024

Perfumed to the hilt, a Castellina of quite mature fruit and seriously typical Riserva profile. Chalky as part of its tannic adjustment with wood a major part, espresso and dusty chocolate just omnipresent at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Riserva is expressive of some more warmth and also spice as compared to both Annata and Gran Selezione. In this respect it’s truly Riserva, the concept made even more notable due to the aromatic richness in layers of seductive perfume. If the others are crunchy wines with energy and freshness than this is the chewy one, with a different energy and style. More “ruffiano,” the kind of sangiovese you eat slowly and savour every bit of the sauce. Gonna need a few pieces of bread to get every last drop. 70,000 to 80,000 bottles produced. The 2018 sold like crazy and so this ’19 is out at the same time as the 2019 Annata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

High Gaiole tones of sweet vintage fruit filling the aromatic spaces above and between. Field blend style with all the endemic bits of varieties spicing and saucing the nooks, butte chambers and crannies of this wine. There are no moments when 2019 Badia a Coltibuono is quiet or absent – the wine gifts and gifts again, and again. This is the future and wouldn’t it be nice if this family could carry on this way for another 1000 years. The privilege can never be taken for granted. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza Di Claudia Cinuzzi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Traditional Chianti Classico from high elevation and verdant hills for sangiovese (with bits of canaiolo and malvasia nera) that can’t and will not be separated from its place. That would be Lamole and Riserva simply compounds the UGA’s character, compresses its feelings and expresses the emotions of a territory’s coolest location. This is parochial red wine of a specific and insular heritage and few other wines deliver this kind of specificity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Emilia, Maria Giovanna and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just recently bottled three months ago and will be released this month. There is no doubt this is the finest Riserva Giovanni has made in his 30-pus years at Casaloste. Immediately notice the salty note, the mineral streak, the moving of all parts together in mimic of a vintage where phenolic maturity and sugars came about slowly and incrementally as one. Perhaps 2016 was similar or close but this, this finds harmony as easily as it can possibly happen. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

“I remember 2019 when we tasted it together at the age that the 2020 is now,” says Paolo Cianferoni. “Now this 2019 is more relaxed.” Aromas are similar to the Mimma 2019, gently swarthy and fruity exotic, with a sense of that fruit becoming leathery but more floral along the way. “Here it’s a fresh place so the fruit is constant. The acidity is what makes the sangiovese so perfumed.” Paolo never touches the pH, no adjustments necessary because of the warming climate. Last tasted February 2024

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Doccio a Matteo is more settled and ready to enjoy than Caparsino, yet equally perfumed as the 2019s all seem to be. Liquid chalky, a true expression of Paolo’s three combined soils, each one layered upon one another. Galesto di Scalia (di Argilla), Alberese mixed with Sabia (sand), and finally a mix of sand and clay. Lovely mix of perfumes, silky textures and blood orange reduction for a truly layered sangiovese. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. More tannin and tension here, especially as compared to Riserva (Caparsino) and needing an extra year to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva from Colle Bereto’s Radda is about as pure, fresh and scintillatingly clean as it has ever been. What we should be incredibly thankful for is the patience to see this released as a 2019 in 2024. The tannins are well on their way to resolution while the acidity is maintained. A fine, fine example of all that Riserva can be in Chianti Classico. Classic, stylish and generous. Last tasted February 2024

Big and brawny wine from Colle Bereto for Riserva and 2019 though of a concern with fruit cast in balance against structure lined up for low, slow and carefully curated development. And maturity with pure sangiovese raised and never braised, surely to be exulted and ultimately praised. Loving the acids within that structure and the chalkiness in smart ratio these vineyards seem to procure. Bravo Bernardo. Certamente. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Giacomo Castellani – Tenuta Campomaggio, Radda

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva is a natural extension of Annata, as natural of fruit and acidity with a similar litheness and transparency. That said the concentration exceeds or steps up, without noticing wood even an iota more upon the structural parts. Here a blend of two vineyards, of Olmo and mostly Ginestraia. Fermentation in concrete and conical vats, aging for 18 months in the grandi botti. The mix of Pietraforte and Macigno soils will not be overstated and so Riserva comes away in doubled layers on repeat. There is no doubt that Riserva steps up from Annata but never abandons the basic Raddese fact of where these grapes are grown. Sangiovese with a double identity, of the two vineyards though from 2019 the Ginestraia Macigno holds more sway. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Santa Teresa 2019, Radda

In 2019 the Riserva labeled Santa Teresa is pulled from the vineyard called “Telignie,” though Campomaggio is not able to use the name because the house at the bottom of the hill is called the same. This is the Pietraforte vineyard, vinified and aged in the Troncone vats, simply done but with no botti because the vintage saw this vineyard give the best quality and also quantity. Approximately 10 percent whole bunch included to bring a new layer of texture and also complexity. Almost no wood noted and only purity meets parity. Balanced and seductive, shoulders relaxed and flavours repeatable sip after sip. Only 5,000-7,000 bottles made, of a total 35,000 production. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2019, Vagliagli

The label that represents the original and central part of Dievole, first made in 1990 that was essentially 900 years after the estate was born. Richer and bolder than Annata with a selection of best plots more concentrated on the higher elevations. The sangiovese receives a five percent mix of canaiolo and colorino, all aging in the big casks. Very blood orange, wealthy and juicy fruit, tannins balanced and integrated, spice all over the back end. That bite is urged on by the inclusion of 10 percent stems, many of them green. Still tight at the finish so we’ll see its best years beginning one from now. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Annata and Riserva at CCC2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

Quite a sappy and soupy 100 per cent sangiovese Riserva made by Attilio Pagli, before organics came in. A style for they who like sweet marmalata, a purée of minestre vegetable, an and after eight (chocolate mint), all of which can somehow be very appealing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Trasqua Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Fanatico 2018, Castellina

Chewy Riserva, fully formed and developed with some of Trasqua’s finest fruit to date. Good acids too, more than most vintages and it feels like this would have been picked in late September because the ripenesses are both fully realized. Stands at attention and delivers all that it could have possibly had to offer. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Just a bit warmer than 2019, “but not too much.” You really feel the freshness and the acidity in a much greater way from this 2018. Extremely youthful wine with all the acidity and structure truly captured. A sangiovese and Chianti Classico lover’s wine. Drink 2024-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Mature aromatics, chewy red fruit, all the leathery plum and liquorice that can be packed into a Chianti Classico Riserva. Developed to the drinking stage, earlier as a vintage than many, hot one mind you and showing that right now, and more. Some mineral and chalk to the structure but pretty much good to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

“My favourite wine,” says Paolo, “it has for me the depth of the season.” Great richness juxtaposed against acids and freshness with true herbal bitters as sweet as they are grippy. Truly classic sangiovese and Riserva, even more so than the Caparsino. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Unequivocal and unmistakable as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio for one reason alone and that is the blood orange perfume so bloody (pun intended) typical of this westerly UGA. Here as Riserva and from 2018 with its purity of red fruit so citrus is origin, fine grained though now liquefying tannin and from a vintage picked in late September yet balanced in alcohol, and ripeness ahead of a strange 48-hour spell cast by temperatures running daytime high and nighttime low. Really fine Riserva in the window at this very moment but will stay this way for three to four years easy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would habe been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Latest release and coming to market as Riserva for Castell’In Villa is 2017, of course and for all the right reasons. Is there an equal in Chianti Classico for this conditioning of 100 percent sangiovese raised in traditional ways that age concurrent with their modern ability to deliver joy and profundity in equal ways? The answer is hard to find and so what comes from ’17 and Castelnuovo Berardenga’s vineyards in surround of the borgo and dressed throughout the forests is in fact nothing short of profound. One of the only wines in the entire territory that need not be spoken about in terms of fruit, acidity and tannin. The approach is different, in how senses, feelings and emotions are solicited and how responses are metered to consider in terms of gravity and other physical forces at work. Ethereality is an obtuse description, as was profundity but they are what they are and the things that come to mind. Sorry, not sorry. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Panzano

Lowest of low yields and great attention needed to be paid in both fields and cellar to result in this fine Riserva ’17. Reduced tomato and still a crunchy sangiovese that needs no introduction. Blood orange citrus and charred herbs, complexities left, right and centre. The tannins dry out more than ’16 but there is no doubt they are children of the same parents. Only 7,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

Hottest vintage with sunburnt grapes but acidity remains high even while the wine may seem a bit toasted. Still plenty of freshness and a reminder that all the old vineyard fruit was used because Doccio a Matteo was not produced. Acids are strong and bright, fruit reduced but opening up and the wine is now in a proper drinking place. The answer to whatever question you are thinking is simple. Caparsa. It’s strong to be sure. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage with no Doccio Matteo made because the grape quality and also quantity was not up to Radda par. “The wine is a mirror of the land, the people and the weather, like a dog.” The grapes here are from both Riserva selections and so quality reaches above par as only one of two, our two in one were produced. Severe at its moments and yet there is much concentration and compact elements, especially chalk and tension in this grippy 2017. Wait on it – the acids are also there to act as the fruition reaching catalyst. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016, Panzano

More off a volumetric Riserva as compared to the output and also the texture of 2017. Similar aromatics to be honest, of tomatoes and blood oranges but also fresh red plums in 2016. The identity of the winery and the vineyard could never come into question. Says Dario Faccin, “you change the quantity but you don’t change the quality.” 18,000 bottles produced as compared to 7,000 in 2017. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

Always with three percent colorino and the Riserva that joins Caparsino through comes into being in a different way. True vintage richness but always the Caparsa freshness and spirit. This by way of acidity and intensity but who could not be seduced by the tannins and structure in spite of an “easy” season by Chianti Classico standards. A complete wine in every respect. Last tasted February 2024

The 2016 Doccio a Matteo is the first sangiovese (in this line-up) from Paolo Cianferoni that’s actually ready to drink, in fact it’s very much there with some drying tannin mixed with dried fruit happening. Full and caky wine, rich and substantial. Must have salty protein to show best and for the win. Tasted February 2023

A single-vineyard Riserva from the plot above the smaller second house called Caparsino and filled with all the soils; argile, Galestro and Alberese. Surely an absolute about face expression with higher volatility and a high, near and nigh potential for advancing porcini notes. A deeper and darker black cherry. Characterful and mature in such a different way, The acidity is uncompromising even while the wine acts oxidative with more wood than the other Riserva. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted February 2020

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Needing time to open up and so 24 hours will always benefit this wine, mainly sangiovese with just a bit (0-5 percent) canaiolo fermented together and the end result is unmitigated integration. The blood orange vintage, slow oxidized and matured in big barrel for 24-30 months, a spice continuum all the way through. Menthol on the palate at the back end and more spice – so much texture and so far from going secondary. Fine Riserva vintage for Losi. Last tasted February 2024

Losi Querciavlle, bastion of one of the globe’s most impressive Alberese landscapes and home to some of this territory’s finest chiselled sangiovese. Like marble structures slowly formed by only those who know how to separate the form from the mass. This is the intuition Pietro Losi and his prodigies know and gift to the world. Give their wines time and you will understand. Like this ’15 Riserva, strong, confident, understated, perhaps yet misunderstood but surely pure and true. Bravissimo. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2020

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

“A real nuclear bomb, like 2017 the vintage was every hot in 2015 and the tannins very aggressive,” remembers Paolo. Salty on the aromatics and while the wine has done some settling it’s truly taut and tannic. A beast this one that still needs more time. Not typical for 2015 but the life of this Doccio A Matteo will be much longer than 2016. Last tasted February 2024

A fresher and more spirited sangiovese as compared to 2016, energy still running full and yet you can drink this with the right amount of air. Chewy liquorice, some tar, iodine and soy. Chocolate, lots of the dark stuff. The wines showed more wood back in these vintages. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

With Neri Capponi

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2010

Chianti Classico UNESCO World Heritage; the modern history of Chianti Classico and Villa Calcinaia up to its UNESCO candidacy. Only four years later and coinciding with the full separation away from all other Chianti wines for a 2010 so much more fresh, alive and intense than Bastignano 2006. This from a very hot vintage and a sangiovese that finished at 14.63 percent alcohol. A much more balanced and baller wine, here as Riserva for Chianti Classico with energy and vigour in modo vogue. 5,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With Laura Bianchi, Giulia Cecchi and Jessica du Puy at Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, San Donato in Poggio

“One of the most elegant vintages in the early 2000s, not too cold, hot, hard or soft, and really well balanced,” explains Laura Bianchi. Aged in a combination of botti and tonneaux, now into full secondary comportment while still grippy and tannic. In truly fine condition though who could argue that the 1982 is fresher, of finer acidity and more balance than this ’04 made 22 years later. A sign of wood usage and the times, of pressing and extraction, of the sort of Chianti Classico that was desired 20 years ago. And yet, and yet the acidity and fine-grained tannin are together intrinsically connected for what can best be described as an unctuous union of the two. This wine just gets better and better in the glass. In fact the spirit and especially acidity are noted as they climb up the sides of the palate with sparks to a point just below the cheekbones. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2003, Radda

Wild wine from a wild vintage, crazy hot at a time when vintages like this were not the norm though were beginning to be. Hot year but also high acidity, likely because of hailstorms in July that knocked off half of the production. The vines reacted by delivering more acidity to support grapes that were maturing quicker and heavier. Still this is Caparsa and freshness persists no matter the dried wild strawberry and oaky flavours. “It’s not my wine because I prefer lighter wines but this is very nice – if you like rich and expressive.” Just a few bottles left in Paolo’s possession. Now only 23. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982, San Donato in Poggio

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1969, San Donato in Poggio

One of the coolest vintages of the era and going back to a time when the wood was chestnut for aging sangiovese. Showing with end stage maturity, especially as compared to the 1968 and 1970 Riserva tasted at Monsanto. There is this feeling of chestnut sap reduction, a kind of soy and vanilla pudding, an herbal note and a sweetness. Imagination begets fantasy and fantasy fades into demure. Tasted February 2024

With Maddalena Fucile, Matteo Vaccari and Bernardo Manetti at the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2021, Panzano

Oldest plot of vines are just approaching 50 years of age growing in the schist with Galestro flaking above the soil. Giovanni Manetti decided to bottle Sorbo as a single vineyard in 1985 though it does come from three plots of plantings put in between 1965 and 1973. Though April frost affected quantity in 2021 there was no compromise to quality and in fact this is as balanced a Vigna el Sorbo as Manetti has ever produced. Bottled just three-plus weeks ago and so yes it’s tight and compact, especially the tannins that take control but truth is this will continue to happen for another few months at the very least. See past the first stage and imagine what will be, take stock of memory and project towards the future. Manetti once said “the fresh finish (of the 1993 wine) should be the trademark of Chianti Classico wines.” Perhaps 2021 will emerge this way. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2021, Panzano

From the terraces around the old medieval Panzano church that the Manetti’s have and continue to restore for a Gran Selezione they were not sure would be made this early in their tenure of working with its fruit. Yet it shocked and surprised Giovanni and Bernardo to the point that it could be made at this level so early and so 2019 was the first, well ahead of schedule. This is a truly structured vintage, a trace of next direction, from the past and through the next generation, fruit so compact and mineral focused but tannins in complete control. The finish is beautifully salty and so completely Panzano. This puts San Leolino as Gran Selezione in next level and new light. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2021, Panzano

An important selection, in 2021 mainly from the Al Sole vineyard but also some fruit coming out of Francesca. “A great vintage for us,” says Iacopo Morganti. Unfortunately the Easter frosts reduced quantity by 40 percent. No matter because Il Margone’s position is to offer a calm respite away from wines too big for their own good, pivoted towards elegance in a sangiovese so right and so pure. Puts this in the finest Panzano light as a wholesome Margone by Morganti and Il Molino di Grace that will slowly evolve over a near 15 year period with kept freshness and slow development. Last tasted May 2024

Campione: Take a little trip forward along a linear and precisely drawn line from Riserva to Gran Selezione and see what will be. Not as aggressive or intense as Riserva but its own kind of powerful and grippy while also more charming. I believe its elegance will begin to show sooner rather than later, say in the first few weeks of 2021. The wood is more noticeable on the nose and the sangiovese needs time – but charm and grace is there. This you can count on. Smaller production of 8,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted October 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Campione: Will be bottled in August and released in 18 months. Since 2016 no frost issues and at this 400m-plus elevation site the April frosts have not been an issue. Striking Gran Selezione of lift, next level acidity and longest chains of tannic command. This may be a sample but it forges a connection between parts, to its Panzano vineyard, to some of Chianti Classico’s finest Galestro and iron soils, to the future. It’s all there, as are the passion plus hard work. The potential is almost impossible to imagine. The length is endless. 3,000 bottles will be made. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The aromas and perfumes are so much more prevalent and open for 2021 with stoniness and Castellina as the instigator for how this Gran Selezione is want to express itself. Crispy, savoury and the sort to really bite down and sink your teeth into. Last tasted April 2024.

New label not yet printed that likely indicated this has not been in bottle long and as a 2021 Gran Selezione that must surely be the case. Keep this in mind when you feel just how implosive and locked in the fruit is kept behind the wall of tannic sound. The freight is loaded in the compartments but the train has yet to leave the station – though as a 2021 there will be joy at the end of the line. With stops along the way because the vintage does not demand too much nor will it crash and burn. Brancaia’s 2021 is a ripe and primed GS to live out the decade and then for a few more years in the next. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2021, San Casciano

If it looks like, smells like and tastes like Badia a Passignano, well then it must be Badia a Passignano. Then again as a 2021 the fullness, generosity and natural phenolic grip meeting sweetness is unparalleled. Yes the underlying verdant savour is always there, always the Badia’s corner of San Donato in Poggio, but honestly the pulchritude of substance feels extant, furthered and extra level for Passignano. For Antinori. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Pietraforte meets Macigno and Galestro at Campomaggio, Radda

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2020, Castellina

Big and let’s reiterate big vintage for Capraia’s Castellina sangiovese and as Gran Selezione the ideal elevates to the hyperbole of an idiom. Thick, rich, oaky and seriously intense but boy that wood has to to settle and integrate. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Clean, advanced to a finer point and really showing the sweetness of fruit at this stage. Open whenever you are ready yet can also be kept for four-plus years. Last tasted February 2024

Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2020 is Gran Selezione like looking in the Castellina mirror because the purity of red, red, red fruit is the crux and at the core of what this wine wants to say. Hyper indicative of the vintage, clear and transparent, never too weighty or adamant and Fonterutoli puts everything in its rightful place. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February and October 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2020, Castellina

From Palagione where vines were first planted in 1965 and the material kept alive through massal selection. Here more structure and lower layers, compact yet breathable Gran Selezione that moves like an accordion. At once tight and playing bass notes but then open and making echoing sounds. A complex wine so young and yet with such a bright future ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sei 2020, Castellina

Sei is long but Sei is right. Sei knows what’s what and is ready for the fight. With itself, a self imposed struggle that mimics the vines and what they had gone through in the vintage. A warm one but this amazing vineyard at 500m sprawled over a hill convex and rolling is the place where Castellina sangiovese turns out this kind of succulence. The maker knows what he’s got and delivers the goods, less in the face then many from 2020 and with grace. This is a fine wine. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Really, really dark blood orange, deeper, darker and richer than what will likely come next from 2021. Spicy nose, wild, almost ferocious and great complexity, wound tight and the palate acting so multifaceted as well, but yet to unwind. Persistence is wow, going on forever. A serious, polished and fabulous 2020 Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: A barrel sample but how can Colonia not be distinctive? Gotta be just about ready to get into bottle at this three-plus-plus year mark, savoury bits swirling and fruit layers compounded with great force. The way the warm and frankly big vintage manifests itself here is with fruit intensity and wood spice that piques here, there and everywhere. A Colonia that needs years to integrate and more time too settle in. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

“A vintage a little hidden between two great ones, 2019 and 2021,” tells Francesco Mazzei. The fruit comes from one special and large (nine hectare) parcel in Castelnuovo Berardenga on the Vagliagli side not far from Mocenni. A wild weave of expositions crisscrossing the apex and crests of a hill at 350m-plus with views to all directions. Makes for a complex patterning of fruit and acidities, a venn diagram of all that is Mazzei, the experience with Fonterutoli, the new frontier in Castelnuovo and Gran Selezione. Some variegate phenolics add to the mystique while dry and botanical Amaro comes later to expand upon the multiplicity of the wine. There is much going on and the need to wait a year or two is recommended. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

The sangiovese comes from the highest of the San Felice vineyards with a few points here and there of other indigenous varieties like the variant of colorino (called abrusco), malvasia, pugnitello and ciliegiolo. So youthful with still gritty or sandy tannins, high tonality but always the balsamic, spices and herbs. Wood is very much in the aromatic mix but also on the texture, thick as thieves with those hard-working tannins. Give it five years and things will get oh so very interesting. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Castello Di Ama Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG San Lorenzo 2020, Gaiole

San Lorenzo is one of the most unique Gran Selezione because, well it was always one, long before it was allowed to be labeled this way. The large vineyard was the Classico for Castello di Ama, the wine that represented the vineyards and estate in the most succinct way. That said it was always about breadth and quantity, as it is now though the vines have been been held, treated and farmed to the highest standard. The 2020 is an aromatic beast, meaty and floral, of evergreen and spices. A potpourri and a masala, the palate acting out the stew of all these aromatics accenting juices, fats and proteins for the most well-developed Gran Selezione in the territory. A fantasy of sangiovese with 13 percent merlot and (7) malvasia nera for 60,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Exuberance and scintillant matter exude from Brolio’s energetic 2020 Gran Selezione which is truly a selection in the form of a “Villages” example taken from 270-pus hectares and at least five different terroirs. A layered and variegate mix of sand, clay and limestone, a lacustrine set of complexities lending all that is needed to create such a well-rounded example of Gran Selezione. Defines Gaiole and Ricasoli, discovers the vintage and delivers the goods. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2020, Gaiole

Colledilà, likely “lost” from the Welsh and yet this first Gran Selezione labeled with its Gaiole UGA will leave us all anything but. Like a an old and beautiful Welsh folk song about a love lost this is the sort of sangiovese that may just make you wistful and weepy. That is because Ricasoli has discovered what makes these grapes round out into a most ideal example of Gran Selezione. This is a soulful and spiritual hymn to Chianti Classic and specifically Gaiole, living, breathing and singing. There is charm, elegance and beauty here, not to mention to kind of structure built upon epochs of geology to see this linger well into the next and further decades. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Gittori 2020, Gaiole

Yet juicy, not finally because it always was for a crispy vintage of Riecine’s top drop. What truly matters now is the incredible length to tell us that the wine is in a great position and the possibilities will travel long. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wholly singular Gran Selezione aromatic set, a smoulder not noted in any other sangiovese, certainly not at this level. That said the red citrus of Riecine can’t be missed, that plus tar and roses notes so reminiscent of some nebbiolo. This would be a great ringer to throw into a mixed sangiovese and nebbiolo blind tasting with tasters struggling to decide which were which. Great length from Riecine and without a doubt a wine for cellaring. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2020, Greve

A Sofia, self denoted label for proprietor Sofia Ruhne and a Gran Selezione from the vineyard opposite the estate on terraces rising up the eastern hill of Greve. A 2020 of restraint, clarity and controlled intensity, many old vines imparting their wisdom to develop concentration, but never too much. There is a not too hard and not too soft aspect of this sangjovese. It speaks to the heart of the Terreno matter. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

With John Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Prima 2020, Greve

La Prima is as it states, the first Gran Selezione and the larger of the two in terms of production for Vicchiomaggio. Richness and somewhat middle of the road structure but all falls into place without much obstruction. Stony and grippy, liquid chalky and quite fine all around, while also softened by 10 percent merlot. Not as complex as Le Bolle to be sure but a fine representative of Matta’s Greve nonetheless. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Victoria, Federica, Sebastain and Delfina Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2020, Greve

Sister Gran Selezione to La Prima, certainly not La Seconda but rather “Le Bolle,” literally the “bubbles.” Happens to be the name of the top parcel at Vicchiomaggio and a Gran Selezione that captures every ounce of fruit and moment of truth for the vintage. And yet at 13.5 percent alcohol it’s a bit of a throwback, a light and bright star for the appellation at the near minimum as far as discipline and rules are concerned. This is about as elegant and graceful as it gets for the appellation so that great food can be paired alongside for years to come. If I were designing a pairing menu today this would rise to the top of the list. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. One of the baller and brazen Gran Selezione in Conti Capponi’s work, doubled down by a vintage of similar character. Intense minerals and elemensl streaking through chalky fruit that mimics and speaks to the terroir – an Alberese stone that will not be denied. This is indeed serious and structured. Wait a minimum four years people. Please. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. Richer, thicker, softer and less intense than certainly Bastignano and in fact the lack of power makes Contessa Luisa show its wood to much greater effect. Sure this needs to relax, settle, integrate and transform but Luisa will always be the softest and dreamiest of the Gran Selezione ‘20s. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. If Bastignano is the beast and Contessa Luisa the beauty then where does that put La Fornace? Not exactly in the middle but shall we say at the mean with its complimentary mix of brawn and beauty, a handsome 2020 of warmth and energy, higher acidity and a burning desire to please. The furnace is on a heater but the flame will die down and eventually breeze to a flicker, after five or six years before fully softening at around 10 to 12. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2020, Montefioralle

Another 2020 from Terreno but this time the terrain is Montefioralle, off of Formazione di Silano geology and so there is grit and power that A Sofia does not show. A Gran Selezione of musculature but a toned and taut corporeal type. Also finer or at least sharper acids from the Sillano and more wood noted as well. May live longer than it’s sister but it shows less finesse – which is splitting hairs but that’s how we look at children of the same parents. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Corso, Bernardo and Margherita Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2020, Panzano

If you think there has been movement from Vigna del Sorbo 2020 think again because the locks remain on the doors, the windows closed and the sign says “come back next season.” Last tasted February 2024

Three parcels, two planted between 1965 and 1971 plus 1973, coming together because the uniqueness of these three plots are the schist soils that manifest above ground as Galestro. All about spiciness and mid-palate volume. The sorbo is a local fruit, specific to Tuscany, very dry and tannic, much like grapes. And hello to the Chianti Classico UGA within Greve commune because this is the first label to say Panzano, 40 years in the making and finally the mention is here. Structure is serious from a reduced crop yield due to frost in April and this is what Giovanni Manetti had to say at the time. “We had a couple of days very cold, April 6th and 7th but the damages are limited to the young vines. The majority of the buds of the other vines were still closed and were not hurt by the frost. In the rest of the CC territory there were some damages in the warmer areas and zero in the cooler ones like Radda and Lamole. The frost in 2017 was much more worse than this.” A linear Vigna del Sorbo this 2020, taut, extremely young and with a great potential. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2020, Lamole

The sangiovese from Lamole of the vineyard strewn with stones of marine origin. Marne di Macigno is the derivative geological term used by Giovanni Manetti and who should argue with the logic? A vein of calcareous material runs through, surely come down from Monte San Michele, up above at 1000m direction Radda. Almost as if both Lamole and Panzano are present in this unicorn vineyard, a marriage of two UGAs in one thin strip of terraced steppes encompassing a single block. Fermentation in amphora “to highlight the fruit in another way,” tells Bernardo Manetti. The most textural of all the Fontodi wines, and indeed a pulpiness as opposed to the glissade of especially the Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. “The nose is like music,” says Giovanni Manetti. Classically composed, lyrical and asymmetrically on repeat. Someday Pastrolo may become Fontodi’s biggest prize. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2020, Panzano

How much does the human factor effect a wine like San Leolino? The answer lies in the relationship between the land, weather, vintage and in how the people who work the fields to maximize the gifts made available to them. From 2020 the quotient is high, above 2019 and ready to pass the torch to 2021. At least in these first three vintage the incline is palpable, the progression linear and more importantly vertical. This is great and 2021 will take it further. Allow the wood to settle for two more years. Last tasted February 2024

From the vineyards surrounding the 9th century Pieve and you know what they say. “Sangiovese is planted, consequences follow.” A 15th century drawing found in a Florence museum proves that monks cultivated grapes on this property at that time. More perfume than the Classico level Panzano and so there is proof that this terraced land with high level Alberese soils provides aromatics and great structure in the way a Lamole plus Panzano might hypothetically get together for a similar result. Leolino is not a go between but something unique, something other. Special and of an aging potential that may just be more promising than that of Vigna del Sorbo, but let’s wait 10-15 years to see if that will come to be true. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Tenth anniversary for the Gran Selezione appellation that was first launched by Il Molino di Grace with the 2010 vintage released in 2014. While Riserva may have come to a readied state Il Margone has not, because tannin times acidity come out doubly aggressive, like the Annata but magnified to the power of 10. Crazy Panzano acidity, sweet and extremamente ventoso. Not far away but still not there. Last tasted February 2024

The vineyard that gives the best quality is Magdalena Vineyard planted around 2010, both for 2020 and what’s to come in 2021. When you have less production it’s easier to separate the wheat from the chaff and so the lots fermented separately are easier to identify. This 2020 proposes an extreme set of tannic proportions but sweet fruit with heft, weight and flesh is up to the task. Tasted October 2023

Fine tannic presence from Gran Selezione for 2020, several steps up from Riserva with less pitch and grab but still overt dark fruit. More diversity and complexity in perfume, notable violets and rose but really what stands out here is how the tannins allow the fruit to stay up front. There are no perceived grains or sand-papery textures involved, neither is Il Margone soft or fluffy. There may only be 8,000 or so bottles available at this quality and so a rare and must have wine it most certainly will be. Iacopo Morganti explains it well. “It’s not easy too make three different levels of Chianti Classico. You need to understand the vintage and the differences, especially when you have less quantity.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

The IdF 2020 will be released in two or three months and if the vineyard were registered as Panzano (and not Montefioralle) then it will be the first GS labeled with the UGA. A wholly apposite vintage to 2021, grippier with fruit shaded darker and brooding, but what really stands out is the ferric and the sanguine, intense and reductive iron blood of jove. Like eating grilled calf’s liver and now the deep red Panzano soil from this single vineyard really hits hard and flows through the corpulence of the sangiovese. The vineyard will be called Le Falcole on the label as of 2020. One of the most intense and identifiable expressions of any in all of Chianti Classico. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

Campione: A sample but more developed as such than so many because Le Fonti, unlike many others does not feel the need to extract and press to impress. In fact there is a level of restraint and fineness that speaks to confidence but also a Gran Selezione made in the way it simply had to be made. Important as one hundred percent sangiovese and definitive of Le Fonti’s finest available fruit in their north-easterly aspect and exposure of Panzano. This is seriously good. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rignana 2020, Panzano

Gran Selezione is 100 percent sangiovese, just bottled in June of 2023. First vintage was 2013 and this 2020 is the first to see Panzano gracing the label under the new rules of the UGA. Similar elévage to the Riserva with all small barrels from a 2003 planted vineyard packed with lots of clay, Alberese lower down and Galestro at the top. Floral example, a bit of acetone, some wood scents of vanilla and coconut and finally balsamico. High acid, sharp, quite tannic and needing a few years to settle in. Will be a much better wine once the integration occurs. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

Curious how 2020 shows a bit more maturity then the 2019 Gran Selezione and the vintage is a bit of a crossroads for this appellative level of a Brancaia Classico. Shows its wood with more aromatic and also textural density, acids are lower and a bit brooding while overall the feeling is of one very experienced and complete Gran Selezione. Balsamico at the finish and balance for sure. Last tasted May 2024

The Brancaia from Castellina is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February and October 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Solatìo 2020, Radda

Starting at Annata 2021, through Riserva 2021 and here to Gran Selezione 2020 we see, nose, taste and feel Albola’s progression, in descending order. The most fruit, sweetest acidity, finest integration and more generous gifts are in this wine. Less structured than many Gran Selezione while also less intense, brooding or formidable as many peers – but sometimes fruit is everything. As here with a 2020 that’s ready and willing to please. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2020, Radda

The Radda Gran Selezione is born of high higher elevation, at 570m below the tiny abbey and truly aboard the glare of white sandy limestone with some Galestro flaking at the surface. The most lift, highest tone and brightest style, part soil and part elevation, but most of all forethought. The fact that the Mazzei decided to acquire this place in 1989, whether by brilliance, chance or both, it only matters that this is a special place today with the ability to create a beautiful and fascinating wine. The energy and finesse is next level from Badiòla 2020, fresh as it gets and with a potential to age for a decade plus. Last tasted February 2024

Badiòla out of Radda is the work of Fonterutoli (out of Castellina) though the distance between cantina and vineyard is not that great. Lovely bit of swarthy behaviour and also an airy quality so elevation surely plays a role and Mazzei clearly sees the potential in this site. High toned and a notable acetone quality though it finds a way to play nice and stay well beneath dangerous thresholds. Good work and promise is clearly the thing. Drink relatively young if best after two more years and look for 2021 to surely be a cracker example of this Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2020, San Casciano

Campione: A sample but a well nigh finished one because it has been in vessels for coming on three and a half-plus years. A Belleza not yet released because well, 2020. Biggest fruit, forested acidity and baddest tannins all conspire for a Gabbiano as substantial and powerful as there ever was. The 100 percent sangiovese aspect is a major component in the result but vintage takes the cake and eats it too. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

With Cristina Fonte – Poggio Torselli, San Casciano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Only sangiovese, single vineyard of the name Montecapri, a Gran Selezione first made in 2013, skipped for a couple of years and resumed in 2016. Concentrated grapes but more than that a different sort and a freshness that neither Annata nor merlot seemed able to find. Spicy fruit, 30 months in those big casks and so a protected but far from oxidative example with a maximum 5,000 bottle production. This is the beginning of a project that will only get better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2020, San Casciano

The original Gran Selezione for Villa Le Corti, that being Don Tommaso, incidentally labeled with its UGA while “Zac” adds the Val di Pesa suffix, as per the commune. Quite the fleshy and substantially concentrated 2020, impressively so, rich, luxe and jam-packed with flavour. A mix of 80 percent sangiovese with merlot (that will not be available in 2023 due to no production because of downy mildew). A bit woody on the palate at this youthful stage but this will pass and Don Tommaso will drink dutifully if also effortlessly through the latter stages of this one and into the first stretches of the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted twice October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

If Vignalparco is something to behold from the big, bad and bold vintage then Gran Selezione is not just another but an apposite matter altogether. Triply rich, fortified and tannic as a wall of hard Alberese, impenetrable and the wine just feels like it’s on the dark side of that moon. If there is one – and many have questioned the notion, but seriously this Gran Selezione is not nothing. Not hard mind you, just a force of Chianti Classico nature. Boom! Wait five years. Trust this is the truth. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feels like a very mature Gran Selezione for 2019 and so perhaps some oxidation from this sample amplified by tasting it late on day two at the Collection Looking forward to another opportunity down the road. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casasilla 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Casasilia which can mean “the blessed house” is tied to Badia a Passignano just one kilometre away and the pre-1990 name of Poggio al Sole under the previous ownership. The flagship wine that was Riserva changed to Gran Selezione as of the 2012 vintage. Best grapes, harvested a bit later and longer macerati”on. Once fermentation and maceration are complete the “130 percent sent to barriques (between 10 and 20 percent new) is then narrowed down to its 100 number. Hard to imagine or find more suave texture and refinement which in GS translates as scorrevole. Which tells us that Poggio al Sole has as much in common with Panzano as it does with San Donato in Poggio. Playful acidity, precision and fine tuning. Runs on Swiss time if you will. A mulch of grippy tannin on the back end suggests waiting a year or two. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2019, Castellina

Single vineyard sangiovese from Casteto at the highest eastern heights of the Western Castellina vineyard. Most freshness and elegance of all the Cecchi sangiovese and from 2019 a wine so ready to drink you will find it hard to keep any bottles in the cellar. Not that structure is an issue because Villa Rosa will mature slowly over a five year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2019, Castellina

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the “croccante” and “graffiante” nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

Mainly Sangiovese with some colorino and a few splashes of merlot “that speaks Chiantigiana.” Also a 500m elevation for most of these grapes, the sangiovese planted in the 80s and converted to organic in the 90s. A stony Galestro soil opposite to the sandy clay and calcari, i.e Calcinaia around the borgo and winery. Only Cellole delivers this cool, liquid peppery swarthiness that the Classico does not show and also a combination of verdant but also distinct minerals notes. Tannins are exceptionally taut with at least two to three years remaining before they begin to truly integrate. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

From the oldest vineyard planted by in 1972 by the Scalerandi family, two owners before Sophie Conte’s father purchased the estate. More obvious concentration than any of the other Tregole wines but also this settled, calming and fully nourished feeling. Have a glass of Gran Selezione 2019 and it will feel like the end of a great meal without having overeaten. The vineyard delivers great material and the layers of fruit are more than apparent. Having tasted vintages going back several years now you can see the development and the acumen growing in Conte’s world. This falls right in the middle but the learning curve is showing. There is a tiny bit of oxidative character on the back palate and so this vintage is more than ready with a delicious finish that reminds of certain dry amaro. Last tasted May 2024

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The Montaperto layering of many red fruits are the crux of the perfumes and freshness out of ’19, they being pomegranate, currant and plum, juices running and so many layers to peel away. Focused vintage and “we love it,” adds Gioia. Return in a year and see just where it looks like this will go. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggiorosso 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Almost hard to believe but 2019 seems bigger, broader and in a way wilder than the 2020 Poggiorosso and yet this single vineyard Gran Selezione is a force to reckoned with, no matter the vintage. The vibrancy and especially the acidity is the wild aspect of a sangiovese that acts a bit the rebel, with cause. Quality here is tops in every respect, fruit is ripe on both ends and that acidity is really quite sweet. Splitting hairs compared to 2020 but this is something special. Amazing work from all new 500L tonneaux. Drink 2024-2037. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sorleone 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A mix of energetic freshness and structured depth, somewhere ideally in between where Sorleone resides in this its sixth vintage as Gran Selezione (though its was not made in 2020). First vintage with new oenologist (Attilio Pauli) will be with the 2021 though the winemaking team in the cantina stays the same. In the window beginning now or perhaps just recently and this mix of glycerin and sweet spice does well to activate the salutary and imaginative senses. Fine shape for a fine wine. 3,000-5,000 bottles per year, this being on the higher end. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2019, Gaiole

There was a local who knew the name of the vineyard and said it was called I Rialzi, which translates as “the lifted up,” or in another way of saying it, rizalto. The rocky location housed a ditch or a gully in the direction rising up towards Badia a Coltibuono. Over time the soils settled to hide the clough but the extreme rocky soils are still home to the vines. Says Lamberto Frescobaldi, “the vineyard matters most,” even more so than the estate or the denomination. In Gran Selezione terms at least. Frescobaldi was told “I don’t give a shit about a selection from you. I want a selection from one vineyard.” So, how does this make that happen, offer a taste or sense of Rialzi? It does so with aromatic volume and vigour, tension and the experience of fruit from a given vintage. As for 2019 well substantial and stress free is helpful but acidity and a wine’s anxiety are what drive Rialzi, no matter its philanthropy. In the end Rialzi is a gift, of Perano and Gaiole. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Greve

The first commercially available vintage was 2017, from the highest reaches out of Querciabella’s vineyard parcels between 450 and 530m aboard the Ruffoli hill. Picked four weeks ahead of same altitude vines in Lamole because of exposure and well, Ruffoli. Treated to a submerged cap, i.e. capello sommerso methodology, a simmer of skins kept wet just as they have been doing forever in Barolo. This means a quality of tannin that comes out by infusion as opposed to extraction and with such an ideal vintage the result is uncompromising. Freshness captured, instinct incarnate, tannic freight compact, though the layers have breezes blowing through. Precise and focused as expected and the finale lingers forever. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

With Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Lamole

From the oldest vines, including those planted back in 1965 and aged for two years in large cask, a.k.a. grandi botti. The old vines show what can be done from lowest of yields, highest of concentration and by way of a contract that seeks and attains the necessity of elegance. Everything about Susanna Grassi’s Gran Selezione speaks to the Lamole UGA, in sweetly herbal and savoury perfume, a floral note connected to the botany and grace under the pressure of structure so well defined. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vecchie Vigne 2019, Lamole

Old vines from Podere Castellinuzza’s high elevation Lamole location are the impetus to set this Gran Selezione apart while keeping in perfumed line with compatriots of that most unique UGA. Who does not want to own fruit from this location in today’s Chianti Classico and this family’s time has surely come. The next epoch of sangiovese from Lamole begins right here with succulence, energy and intensity. Floral and spicy, austere in a tannic way while gently rustic, but so very beautiful in all these ways. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With Emanuele Graetz – Isole delle Falcole, Panzano

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

Just beginning to open and emerge because the vintage delivers that kind of fruit generosity but the vineyard simply will not be quiet or separate itself from this always bloody sangiovese, not even for a moment. The heavy metal presence creates the most metallic, elemental and mineral trilogy, a triptych of sangiovese, acidity and powerful tannin to equip this Gran Selezione for a decade-plus of immovable life ahead. Last tasted February 2024

The project of Emanuele Greatz, exporter of Roberto Voerzio, Il Molino di Grace, San Fillipo (Roberto Gianelli) and Barbaresco’s Russo. This is the early fruition of Emanuele’s dream, renting Panzano land in 2016 to eventually purchase and a first vintage in 2017. The land is officially Emanuele’s now. The name of the Conca or amphitheatre actually shares an affinity with the Conca d’oro, in shape, orientation and yet there is much more forest and also higher elevation. Total of four hectares planted, 1.2 up on the hill facing south at 420m and roughly two below the house, both set in Montefioralle. The final 0.8 for the Gran Selezione is in Panzano right next to Montefili and so Graetz calls it Montefili – internally.” It will be called Il Falcole. Gran Selezione 2019 is solo sangiovese sent to 30 months in big barrel combination of French and Slavonian. Purely Panzano through a Selezione of a pinpointed place and to be honest the fruit is a bit deeper and darker than many Panzano ‘19s. That said there are layers and layers to unfold, unfurl and open with high acidity from the high elevation vineyard up at 520m. Where else is Panzano (other than Montefili and Cenattoio) will express this elevation in this wild-eyed and excitable way? A harbinger of the future and initialization of the realization of Emanuele’s dream is in this glass, from this bottle. Wait three years to understand just a bit more and figure things out for 10 more thereafter. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2019, Radda

All sangiovese and nothing but the sangiovese in one of the first iterations of Gran Selezione under the guidance of new and improved ownership. Brightest of red fruit for a concept and work in progress that seeks to deliver utter transparency for lower (relatively speaking) elevation out of Radda. Firm enough though the tannins are anything but austere. Drink early GS, again, relatively speaking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

From the first vineyard purchased by Barbara Widmer’s parents, Brigit and Bruno, back in 1980. Ripped out and re-planted in 1999 with four clones chosen from the Chianti Classico 2000 project because massal selection was not viable at the time. Great fruit, grainy structure and time needed to heal the wounds and rusticity off the wine. There is so much character and potential with almost no maturity showing yet, however those tannins and that fruit do tumble around together. Wait another year, or so. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

Like Riserva the Colle Bereto showing at the Chianti Classico Collection in 2024 is 2019 for Gran Selezione. Not quite as mature and resolved as the other appellative level but still en route and in a similar arena. More strength and power from these saucy tannins, long-chained and still visible, if also reverberating. The wood is still very much in control so be patient and allow a rendering, but also the disappearance of a mild swarthiness. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2019, San Donato In Poggio

The arrival of an Il Poggio is greeted with great anticipation because luxury and fortune have beget tastings of several recent and also older vintages. So imagine what Monsanto’s 2019 will surely bring to the table out of San Donato in Poggio. No ordinary moment, but one likely to get frozen into time. Open heart and mind, dig into deeper understanding and intuitive possibility. Gran Selezione 2019 from the Bianchi family’s hilltop vineyard is sublime. Concentrated, understated, refined, precise and giving. Nurturing if edgy but always gracious and unselfish. A touch reductive, protected and of course stylish. A moment so vivid it causes ache, awe and longing. Too much waxing for a bottle of wine? Actually no but another Il Poggio for the ages. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2023

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Bottled in September of 2023 though winemaker Riccardo Nuti is keenly aware how much more time is needed and so plans are to release this Gran Selezione after a full year in bottle. Sees 20 percent amphora because frankly Montecchio is not just a Fattoria of wine (and olives), but also a “fornace” for working with clay. An original in this regard and one of the pioneers for GS aging. The ’19 sings with pure and unadulterated sangiovese aromas, explicitly San Donato in Poggio because of the red florals, citrus and sanguine character. Also brings an added layer of palate texture, the kind that settles and coats, but fruit is the medium. With time the defraying will become a glissade but for now the verticality of this Selezione is not ready to relax or relent. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Gioia, Sara and Filippo Cresti – Carpineta Fontalpino, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2019, Vagliagli

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The dried balsamic quality of 2018 is here replaced but more freshness and spirit. A richer wine in 2019 as compared to Montaperto with the wood more involved – while the wine this young is trying to figure out its way through adolescence. The clay is fully involved in just how textured and fruity Dofana acts in this inimitably generous vintage. Flesh will come, with time. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2019, Vagliagli

A 6.4 hectare vineyard at 450m which qualifies as the highest point of Dievole. A south exposure with Macigno and outcroppings of clay to deliver more power than any other estate sangiovese. The aromatics are expressly consistent with Riserva (and also Casanova) but the musculature is taut and developed. That which Riserva commits to is magnified in this fourth vintage of the Gran Selezione, none more so than the tannins which grab, grip, secure and hold on tight. They compound and reside in the arena of the austere at the finish of this profound wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Michaela Morris and Christine Lechner at Prowein 2024

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2018, Castellina

Paronza is the name of the vineyard and comes from a hospital housed by a monastery that hosted pilgrims. Still the work of Atillio Pagli, sappy like the Riserva, fruit quality improved from the ’18 Riserva while so soft and creamy with that same kind of perceived sweetness. Ready. Last tasted May 2024

Well traveled, maturing and warm Gran Selezione from Castellina’s Casale dello Sparviero, of high aromatic intensity to match stride for stride a sangiovese poised at the ready. Herbal for Castellina though neither brushy dry or brassy, but instead a juicy bleed of fruit and flora. Solid GS through and through, equivocating and evocative of the UGA. Last tasted October 2023

Paronza is a buoyant and almost weightless, gravity defying Gran Selezione, easy of mind, body and alcohol. Aromatically reticent and a wine so young you really have to play, swirl and agitate to get any kind of emotive response. Perfume, red fruit and fresh sanguinity do emerge, followed by a sappy, almost syrupy texture dominated by liquid Galestro-willed tannins. Very Castellina, wholly vintage related and will drink well beginning two years or so from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2022

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

There is ten percent pugnitello with the sangiovese, already meeting the new requirements of the Gran Selezione. From the 2020 vintage San Marcellino will say Gaiole on the label. Aging is 25 months in barriques, tonneaux and botti, 25 per cent new oak overall. Almost three years in bottle at this stage. Finest of San Marcellino tannins are coming about ever so slowly, surely to mature over a 15 year period. Tells Marco Ricasoli, “elegance does not mean weakness. The power does not affect your mouth.” Posit tug between salinity and sapidity. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

So fresh, young and structured but my if there is another Gaiole Selezione with as much stuffing as San Marcellino it would be beneficial to hear about it. Thirty-plus year potential. Truthfully. Tasted May 2023

The next San Marcellino Gran Selezione is a big one, strong willed and big-boned, laced with trace schisty-marl-Galestro elements and minerals from a vineyard capable of structuring wines like no other. This is Monti in Chianti, of all the red, blue and black fruits, coming away violet purple and speaking about a season. A warm one, all the way through to October and the phenolic ripeness here is off the proverbial charts. Wow. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Not yet released and will have at lest three more months in bottle before that can happen. A strong vintage and normally the release would be the fall but both wood and fruit need to time to find each other. The substance in Sassello 2018 is, well substantial, in fact something more than that. Richness at the height of Verrazzano’s abilities but my goodness this packs a punch while also showing off the modernity and harmony that define this estate today. Bravissimo. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

The thing that connects Sassello and Valdonica is the vintage, the power and the full on substantial effects compactly packed yet carefully multi-layered. A swarthiness really separates this GS from Sassello in ways that put this in its own light. The aromas and flavours also bring in exotic spices but also a succulence that show how special and different this sangiovese truly is. It walks a fine line, flirts with danger and comes out singing. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Emilia and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fine swirl of sangiovese with voluminousness liquid peppery aromas from the word go that are commanding and unrelenting. Put your nose into Giovanni d’Orsi’s Gran Selezione from late (though properly timed) harvesting for what was necessary out of Panzano. For 2018 that is because late September heat by day and cold by night meant stem ripeness, higher alcohol and captured acidity. All of which put 2018 Casaloste into fine form, big and meaty, bountiful and elastic. Bravo. Drink 205-2032. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pecchia 2018, Panzano

Pecchia from only Pietraforte Panzano soils was IGT through the 2016 vintage, skipped in 2017 and brought into the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation in 2018 with the estates first Gran Selezione. Less transparency but clearly more polish and luxe disposition than Gallùle but what this expresses are hearty matters of spotless and seamless perfection. Structurally speaking the Pietraforte puts this sangiovese in a most precise place to establish a top position in every respect. Just 3,000 bottles produced and though there was great heat at the launch of harvest there were also low nighttime temps and all the acidity was preserved. Great graphite style and cool as an October Panzano night. Really special wine. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bambole 2018, Panzano

Campione: Of all the Gran Selezione samples this Le Bambole is one should be the nearest to be ready because, well it’s 2018. Now two years longer in waiting than most other unreleased samples and yet mon dieu this ’18 is still so far away from being ready. Uncanny how much Pietraforte strength Il Bambole is want to direct as itself and on our palates that feel both slaughtered and bamboozled. So befitting the name and also the vintage which delivered great late September heat. Cold nights too which is why this acidity is striking and frankly necessary. On par with 2016 which is a feat in itself. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Villa Trasqua Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Nerento 2017, Castellina

Nerento offers up that super important and at times rare mix of maturity and results based on time having been the necessity to allow for an approach to drinking this Gran Selezione at this stage. The wood would have been obtrusive and on top just six months before and this timing is fortuitous to say the least. Some raisin and fig with high quality acid and a balsamic sweetness woven through the tannin. Not an extreme vintage as might be expected but surely a high-toned one. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2017, Gaiole

Third vintage of Rialzi from a hottest and driest one, though always worth a reminder that Perano is high elevation Gaiole – meaning a cooler and fresher place. In Chianti Classico terms this means the vineyard and its cooling maintenance from rockiest of soils lends a much needed pulse, flux and regulating ability to ensure sangiovese’s credibility. Vigour and dewiness are preserved which allows Rialzi ’17 to grace the palate like clean early morning summer moisture on grass and bushes. Fruit was hung a little bit longer than many other single-vineyard Gran Selezione to be sure, full phenolic maturity has been acceded and the conclusion is about a full and favourable sangiovese. A unique one at that and one to surely benefit from some rest in the cellar. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2015, Castellina

In agreement with Andrea Cecchi whereby in some ways 2015 is still a baby, but on another level the maturity is there, or at least seen that wasy through one of the two open bottles. This second pour is not only the answer to a predictive moment made in September 2018 but a reconciliation of what Villa Rosa sangiovese is want to become. Youthful and yet ready, in the first stages of secondary character but at least five more years shall pass before the next phase begins. Last tasted May 2024

These are not the richest and most extracted Chianti Classico and they are truly driven by acidity, a Castellina acidity to be sure, edgy, expected or not. The red fruit is direct and linear lightning, not overly complex and certainly true to consistent form. It’s actually quite amazing to note this form of sangiovese structure as being very specific to commune, very close to the Valore Gran Selezione and recognizable for place as much as any in the entire territory. This will evolve slower than the Valore, in fact I can’t see it changing all that much in the next five years. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted September 2018

Losi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Millennium 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Still quiet and reserved, far from even hinting at the end of its first millennium in bottle. Full and still in a chaste state, a textural casted Gran Selezione that exults the finest selections of Losi’s vineyards. Gives and gives some more but its best and most complex days still lay ahead. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 1988, Castellina

From 1988, raised on Piaggia, the top of the Villa Rosa hill and aged in chestnut barrels. In great shape, truly well kept and the toasted chestnut aromas are those caught in a time machine. Chianti Classico and sangiovese from another era, a savoury balsamico, however that is consistent if altered because of time. Time that has softened and dried out the fruit yet the palate delivers a level of freshness that needs to be tasted to be believed. Speaks to wine being made the right way at the time and yet you wouldn’t do things this way now because the sangiovese demands evolution and a new approach. A look back that says you can peer through a portal to see changes coming and for the next 40 years. Tasted May 2024

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG

Castello Di Monsanto Vinsanto Del Chianti Classico DOCG Occhio Di Pernice 2006

Rare and different for VinSanto, here as 100 percent sangiovese and in many ways nothing like the style that comes from those made with trebbiano and malvasia. Plenty more caramel and especially spice, of nutmeg, sweet lemon and iced tea. A really fine black tea, tannic and softened by clover honey. Sweetness, acidity and impeccably balanced. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2024

San Giusto A Rentennano Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG Giusto 1999

Remember that a great vintage for reds might not succeed with Vinsanto and vice versa but this 1999 just feels like ideal middle ground. Intense sweetness (around 350 g/L) with lower volatility and solid acidity. Length simply outstanding, A treacle of deep caramel and caramelized fig, brown sugar syrup and finishing spice – cardamom and nutmeg. Crazy complexity if surely one in the sweeter and softer pantheon of San Giusto Vinsanto. Last tasted February 2024

Vinsanto Giusto 1999 is from 90 per cent malvasia and 10 trebbiano dried on traditional mats then transferred to small oak (caratelli) barrels, with absolutely no botrytis allowed. The selection is extremely careful to avoid the noble rot. Perhaps the most viscous gelée of VinSanto ever put in mouth because 400 g/L of residual sugar will do that in the most concentrated and incredible of ways. The most intense VinSanto you will ever find. Could go three-plus decades further. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted February 2018

Brancaia Tasting

IGTs

Brancaia Rosé 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Made with 100 percent Maremma grown merlot picked earlier (mid-August!) than wine for the reds, keeping the alcohol down with light colour and high acidity. No skin contact, three months on lees for a creamy and sapid Rosato that goes down far too easy. Currants and faint strawberry but just easy and lovely. Summer go to Rosato. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Bianco 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

All sauvignon blanc from Castellina vineyards, picked early (which would be late August) for the purpose of acidity, freshness, brightness and intensity. First Bianco was made in 2011 (though was a very different style at the time) and now the variety is a veritable facsimile of itself. Shows some aging potential for more layers to pop up and out, but not for 10 years. Crunchy and salty enough, not quite startling but surely creating a pop and a buzz on the palate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Tre 2022, Toscana IGT

A blend of all three Brancaia properties, two-thirds from Maremma and one-third Castellina/Radda fruit. The varietal blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aging in tonneaux and concrete. Serious yet uncomplicated, coastal ripeness meeting Classico region acidity for layers, piques, rises and valleys in a red blend. Three layers of savour, gariga and balsamico with three distinct types of spice, some of it very related to wood. This just feels like a perfect match to veal shoulder or Ossobuco, braised in a few cups of Tuscan red wine, fresh tomato, mirepoix and saffron, then topped with Gremolata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

With Barbara Widmer – Brancaia

Brancaia N°2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, DOC Maremma Toscana

Coastal cabernet is a unique thing unto itself and with the streak of salinity running through there is less density and brood than what might otherwise happen in today’s increasingly warming climate. There is an elegance to No. 2 and a beautiful sense of the brushy Mediterranean terroir. Tannic and finishing at dark chocolate with a shot of espresso. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2021, Toscana IGT

The mix is merlot from Radda blended with cabernet sauvignon from Castellina. Five of 15 hectares from Castellina and half (eight of 16) in Radda. All Chianti Classico area fruit and how they layer together is a matter of desire coupled with Barbara Widmer’s experience. True blue merlot with as much structure as any found anywhere this meeting of Tuscan varieties will occur. So different than Bolgheri (and obviously Maremma) but no shock to see. Seriously structured red, fine-grained tannins and intensity self-reflecting inwards and needing up to five years to expand. Very confident wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Just as with sangiovese there is a marked difference between 2020 and 2021, also for merlot and cabernet sauvignon. There may have been a time when ripening (especially the cabernet) was a challenge in terms but think that way no more. Some frost damage at Easter reduced yields but the quality here is exceptional, the flavours developed and true. This will age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Wait for three because the wood is still very much in play. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2020, Toscana IGT

Brancaia Ilatraia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A change to the labelling begins in 2021 now with a mix of the classic label. The 2021 is expressive of more Machia Mediterranea than any Ilatraia that have come before. The brushy savour and local gariga are so prevalent on the aromatics and the palate shows great succulence for this very special red blend. Not only is the label a next generation style and idea but the winemaking also seems to follow this route. Freshness and crispy quality creates something new, vibrant and exciting for what Ilatraia is now and also going to be. Really special vintage, extraordinary and of a potential unlimited. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The repeatable 2021 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon plus (20) merlot does not equivocate as a carbon copy of the 2020, nor should it and acts to remind how Maremma vintages will alter and in turn pay heed to the terroir. This feels like Galestro in the mix, surfacing for scents of the petrichor of rocks and sea and air after a rain. Rich and elegant, flavours swirling of fruit, earth, elements, the sea, mineral and natural sweetness. Finely poised, chiseled, and structured to live a very long, good and proper opus of a life. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020, Maremma Toscana IGT

That blend since 2009 is 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. The three months of “refinement” in concrete began with the 2019 vintage and here 2020 presents a wine of more energy and freshness. Chewy but also scorrevole, gliding and sliding across the palate with this glistening and glycerol style of fruit that says so much about modern day Maremma. A full and concentrated yet never gratuitous Maremma red blend so perfect in pitch, sway and glide as it shows so much grace today, but also to do so for many years going forward. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The change for this 20-plus year-old IGT happened in 2009 when sangiovese was eliminated, petit verdot introduced and cabernet increased. Closed aromas for now, soon to change because 2020 will open much earlier than 2019 and also 2021. The petit verdot is aching to be untethered and understood, the other parts less so but will come soon thereafter. There is great personality and acidity to this 2020, a freshness unexpected and a diversity within a wine that comes in layers, marine waves and complexity. Wow vintage, again unexpected but then again, not really considering Maremma, Brancaia and 2020. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2019, Maremma Toscana IGT

From 2019 the aging process changes, still 18 months in barrel but now followed up with three months in concrete before bottling. “To give the wine time to become a unit” explains Barbara Widmer. The 2019 feels more forward than 2018, maybe because of less stress during the season with ’19 allowing the team to breath after 2018, but there is so much fruit it seems the structure and therefore potential will be lessened. Rich and more wood sensations here, a chocolate expression with ganache painted all over the dark fruit. Tannins are of very good quality though they are softer and silkier than most vintages. A seductive Ilatraia this 2019 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018, Maremma Toscana IGT

Rich vintage with layers and layers upon others of fruit, wood, fruit, wood and more fruit. “We were very afraid because of the heat and drought after 2017,” admits Barbara Widner, which means some negative linger or hangover might have been a part of the work during the ’18 season. But luck was on the Brancaia side with good winter rains, a fine spring and balance throughout the summer, all the way to harvest. “We were super, super lucky and were able to relax.” Concentration, restrained power because freshness and really good potential still lies ahead. Could see this drinking well, like 2004 for example, 20 years forward. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2017, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable acidity from 2017 when you consider the drought and heat that occurred from winter all the way through to harvest. A vintage that could have been a disaster and the blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc seems to fit, no matter the vintage. Not only that but also the switch away from sangiovese was so smart because it could have truly been problematic in 2017. Yes this is ready to drink and yes it’s rich and extracted but once again it needs saying that acidity keeps the dream alive. Lovely work here with 2017 and a perfect Ilatraia to pour at wine dinners all over the world. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2016, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2016 is in the finest shape of any Ilatraia thus far, with great acidity and an energy that means business. Concentration yes but also layers upon layers of natural sweetness, kisses and the caress of what this wine does to nurture the palate. The most suave tannins of them all and a beauty, but also grace about the wine. Yes it it the most experienced and confident wine of the 20 in this vertical. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2015, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2015 is nothing but lovely, simple easy and slowly evolving in pretty much the way you would have expected to be. For winemaker and Widmer the closest comparison would be 2004 but there is such a fruity quality (yes it is younger) and that fruit has done little to advance out of its freshest stage. Not much will happen for another two years. Will drink for a few more years on top of the few imagined five ago. Lasted May 2024

The blend changed in 2009 and here in ’15 it’s cabernet sauvignon (40 per cent), petit verdot (40) and cabernet franc (20). In a way too bad because the ’08 was quite glorious but here in a wholly antithetical way, now there is more brightness and vitality. Not that the barrel regimen is shy in any way but there’s really a lift and not merely because of vintage. Quite balanced and should age well for a few more years. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2014, Maremma Toscana IGT

The most challenging of vintages, with 2015 no bargain, “even for Maremma on the wet side, along with the Suzuki fly in the vineyard.” Required a major amount of selection and in the end Barbara Widmer was quite happy with the result for this blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Meanwhile the energy and persistence are more than fine and ample for the vintage with secondary character is coming on quite slowly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasting 20 years of Ilatraia at Brancaia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2013, Maremma Toscana IGT

A very good vintage for Maremma, considered tops even though the same could not necessarily be said for Chianti Classico. Loving the acidity and chalky liquidity of the 2013, a wine that was managed so well, partly because the vintage was so generous this way, but also because experience with place, blend and style have come to a very good place. Not sure this will have the same stuffing that 2012 is showing but the enjoyment now is really tops. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2012, Maremma Toscana IGT

A full, substantial and concentrated wine from 2012 that clearly shows a progression speaking to what Maremma could and will be able to do with these kinds of blends. Acids and tannins are equal and available, up to the task in support and the harmony here is second to none. Experience and acumen are on display to say that Ilatraia is truly on the correct track. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2011, Maremma Toscana IGT

If 2010 was showing top acidity and energy than 2011 takes these necessary longevity extended factors to another level altogether. What stands out here is the cabernet franc which gets more and more important in a blend with the 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. The length here is outstanding and the vintage still expressive of its longevity and future potential. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2010, Maremma Toscana IGT

The challenge of sangiovese not succeeding on the Maremma coast without irrigation meant a new blend having been initialized in 2009 and still in play through at least 2022. That would be 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc though it could vary by two percent from year to year. The acids in 2010 are remarkable, sweet and crucial to a warm and “big” year such as this. Another 2010 that surprises with its energy and also balance. The maturity into secondary epoch has happened with seamlessness and grace to put 2010 in top light. Great showing. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2009, Maremma Toscana IGT

First vintage of the new blend, kicking out the sangiovese and so now with 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. About half new French wood from two sources, Sylvan and Raimond. A wildly authentic Maremma IGT, aromatics full of the coastal Macchia Mediterranea, the balsamico by the sea, the brushy savour so specific to the Etruscan Coast. Richness and great climatic interest, a feeling of the dry maritime place and wood a big part, but more as an aid and abet, not the dominant driver. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008, Maremma Toscana IGT

Quite an advanced Ilatraia from cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), the last vintage with not only this exact blend, but also sangiovese. Chewy, lots of chocolate, wood very much the dominant factor, the sort of Tuscan red that appeals to so many, especially those who were paying attention to this style back in 2007. Time in the glass helps open up more channels. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). A vintage of high acidity and exceptional structure. Has taken on as much wood as the fruit can handle or at least support. It’s a gathering of big bones with flesh still attached and a long finish. The year and the acumen are clearly on display for a project that seems to have hit its proper stride. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2007, Maremma Toscana IGT

Much more maturity to 2007, especially after tasting the 2006 and yet the blend is just the same as it had been going back to 2002. That would be cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), here quite integrated, with fine acids (if not quite ’05 or ’06 acids) and yet the charm here is really lovely. Very ready to go, please and make the experience a fully enjoyable one. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Ilatraia 2021-2002

Brancaia Ilatraia 2006, Maremma Toscana IGT

The blend beginning in 2002 and culminating in 2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Big vintage and there is an aromatic spicy chalkiness to ’06, owing to ripeness and also high quality tannins. Surely a wine of the times and so very specific to where the wood really dominated and the wine is just now slowing down. Wow – how does this wine now show this way with so much confidence, character and attitude? Amazing really. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2005, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable vibrancy and energy from 2005, warm but balanced vintage as it was and the first to speak of the Brancaia experience for Maremma and what the young vineyards (planted in 1998) were willing to offer and eventually to mix and work with the last plants put in back in 1995. The blend from 2002-2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). More character and ultimate interest from 2005, at least as it goes for the first four vintages of Ilatraia. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2004, Maremma Toscana IGT

Good if unremarkable vintage that “you would consider wanting to have every year,” says Barbara Widmer. You feel the wood on 2004 more than the vintage before and after, rich in chocolate, chewy fruit leather centre and cocoa dustier on the back end. Same blend as with ’02 and ’03, of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10) More evolution here but also length…and harmony. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2003, Maremma Toscana IGT

A warm year and you can smell the liquid smoke and also peppery heat on the nose but honestly the continuance from 2002 and into 2004 is surely there. The acidity is in great shape, sweet and vibrant, the finish forceful with cocoa and liquorice. Super fine and nice for the mouth from an Ilatraia where again the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2002, Maremma Toscana IGT

The initial idea behind Ilatraia was to find a place in Tuscany where you could ripen sangiovese in every and not just a here or there vintage. It was not conceived of an actual business plan back in 1998, definitely not to create a wine like Ilatraia. The first vintage was 2002 and the grapes were so good the decision was made to create this wine. And yet the vintage so maligned made it a challenge for Barbara Widmer to bottle all of the possible 20,000 bottles – and so she made just 10,000. From the start the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), now in 2024 where there is no missing the preserve of freshness. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). Grapes come Maremma and Chianti Classico. A cool, rainy vintage and certainly no picnic for sangiovese and Chianti Classico, but pretty much a challenge in all of Tuscany. With a syrupy chocolate, iodine and balsamic quest having been reached. Has aged quite well and drinks with secondary pride, followed by a sweet finish. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Caparsa Mimma 2021, Toscana IGT

With 30 percent whole bunch for the first time and a much higher production because the vintage was generous this way. Also more oak and fruit, saucy, pulpy and fleshy with the greatest potential of the three Mimma (2019-2021). This will be bottled in two weeks and so it’s still an anteprima but really is a finished wine. This is the be prepared to pair with red meat sangioevse that will clean your palate withe every sip. Fine and grippy tannins will see this live a log life. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2020, Toscana IGT

Mimma is tannic, that much is clear from the first sip. Only the third vintage and mon dieu what a beautiful, fresh, clean and crispy sangovese. Love to sip and willing to lay it down. As you wish but best scenario would be to let this sangiovese have some time in the bottle. The women got is exactly right. Limited production of just 1,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Still a beautiful IGT but wholly different to the 2020, here the second vintage of Mimma made with grapes chosen only by Gianna and Fiamma Cianferoni. Last tasted February 2024

Mimma could have been Chianti Classico, it could be Gran Selezione, dedicated to “all the girls of the area,” says Paolo in all earnest seriousness, hand-picked grapes by Paolo’s wife Gianna and daughter Fiamma. This is the flagship, small production less than 2,000 bottles, grapes from all over the vineyards, picked in the middle of harvest, during the second pass. There is a restrained intensity in this sangiovese and it does indeed make you think. That’s important, It means Gianna and Fiamma get it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Harenae 2022, Colli Della Toscane Centrale IGT

Harenae refers to the sandstone soil known locally as Arenaria but also what is used for terra cotta manufacturing in Impruneta. Fifth vintage for the solo sangiovese artist macerated by the process of “capello sommerso” for 60 days and aged a year in 1000L amphora. Bottled in October of 2023 and Paolo Paffi calls Harenae the “B-Side,” an ulterior way to look at sangiovese that can be a hit though it will always have its quirky, natural or alternative style. A sangiovese that is correctly and properly oxidative, drying, tannic to a great and serious degree. A tapestry woven of woolly texture that will not be denied. It’s freshness is driven by a sanguine character that is so very San Donato in Poggio. It’s just expressed in a very different way.Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Bianco Di Toscana IGT 2022

Drink straight away, fresh and salty, easy white for every day. Vermentino, malvasia and trebbiano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosato Di Toscana IGT 2022

All sangiovese, just a couple of hours run-off juice, simple and salty like the Bianco, but exaggeratedly so. Relates to the high salinity in the soils and for Rosato this is the way to speak for this wide open geographical section of Castellina. Succinct, spot on and uncomplicated glou-glou of a Rosé. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosso Di Toscana IGT 2021

Sangiovese blended with merlot and cabernet sauvignon, proprietary IGT blend that drinks as succinctly and direct as imagination should ask it to. Unadorned, balanced and perfectly designed for that proverbial pasta, pizza and steak house pour by the glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Superiore DOCG 2020

Pure sangiovese rom the area around Poggibonsi, organic, about 10,000 bottles and well made. Bit of vanilla and simple sappy wood flavours, but quite clean and perfectly serviceable. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casaloste Don Vincenzo 2018, Toscana IGT

The signature wine is in ode to Giovanni’s father who helped Casaloste get its start in 1993 and this single two hectare vineyard is purposed grown for this wine alone. The vineyard delivers the most concentrated fruit and the most developed phenolics and it shows in the intensity but also form this warm vintage in the bold and compact layers of Casaloste’s sangovese. A wine first produced in 1995 (two years after the first Casaloste) and one that takes time to develop, piano, piano, lentamente, slowly but surely. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casaloste Inversus 2019, Toscana IGT

From the merlot vineyard facing west planted in 1999, with 10 percent sangiovese. The first (2003) vintage was 50-50, as an experiment to see the relationship between the two before slowly (2005-60/40, 2007-80/20, then in 2009- 90/10) working with more merlot. The 10 percent sangiovese is just the right amount to keep the connection. Inspiration came from Giacomo Tacchis who knew that the grapes had been here not 50 but 200 years ago. Silky with a fine tannic grain running through and the similar beauty shown by Riserva 2019. Lovely, lovely wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Laura Bianchi and Giulia Cecchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2022, Toscana IGT

At this point in the chardonnay’s tenure the percentage of wood is 30 percent which is a number that came into effect back in 2008, down from 50. From a Galestro strewn plot of five hectares facing northwest and still a fresh place and so a saltiness pervades, but the predominant feeling is what Laura Bianchi calls sapidity. That’s because there is a phenolic moment and also mineral grip that’s more than just or perhaps apposite to saltiness. A challenging vintage, very warm (amongst other extreme weather events) and still Monsanto’s 2022 chardonnay is bursting with energy and freshness. Flesh and richness too of course but balance is in full effect. Will this age with the best remains to be seen but today it seems to matter very little. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2005, Toscana IGT

Vigneti Di Monsanto were planted to a special clone of chardonnay that has always seemed so resistant to disease, especially Perenospera and Laura Bianchi tells they’ve only lost a few vines in 40 years. At the time of the 2005 vintage the vines would have been 23 years of age and it’s kind of remarkable how this 18-plus year-old chardonnay emits a vapour trail like older riesling. That’s the phenolic push-pull of salty and sapid, the dichotomy of a Monsanto chardonnay that’s always in play. A fine moment and once again proof of this unique clonal-varietal relationship at work. That said 2005 is fading like a beautiful sunset over the hills of San Gimignano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2018, Toscana IGT

One of the original “Super Tuscans,” second to (San Felice’s) Vigorello, of 100 percent sangiovese that could not be casted as Chianti Classico when that solo performance was not permitted. The Scanni vineyard and its calcareous soils with marine sediments puts the “S” in salty, so much more so than what happens in Monsanto’s Chianti Classico. Notable connection to Giulio Gambelli, of the planting of the Grosso and in how he and Fabrizio Bianchi would meet on a daily basis to discuss wine growing and making. Verdant streak of Poggibonsi-San Donato in Poggio woods, cool and slick, saline and ethereal. Absolutely and unequivocally Sangioveto from its place but also a wine that needs time. More than many and this lengthy 2018 will surprise many by living famously but also brilliantly for nearly two decades. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Cobalto Val Delle Rosa 2021, Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana IGT

Vermentino done up three ways, in steel, wood and also amphora, for freshness, salinity and verticality married to structure and mouthfeel. Brings about a balance of all parts in not just one but several layers and level of elegance for white wines, not just from Maremma and Toscana but anywhere and everywhere. Cobalto is such a white wine, an experience that leaves you satisfied because it touches all the points that matter. Andrea Cecchi’s father was ahead of the curve with his decision to make vineyards in Maremma. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari – Cigliano di Sopra

Cigliano Di Sopra Nuvola Del Cigliano 2022, Toscana IGT

Picked earlier to preserve acidity (5-ish g/L of TA) and says Matteo Vaccari, “we work with the lees for a good resolution. You can make mistakes with sangiovese but not with trebbiano.” Texture is of a terrific natural coarseness while energy improvises, improvise upon and rights the fabric of this white. Last tasted February 2024. A mix of 75 percent trebbiano and (25) malvasia, five days whole bunches for a quick syringe of carbonic and then a short, old wood stay. Comes away with just that quick strike of matchstick and a finish at 11 percent alcohol. Citrus is very lemon, juiced and gelid like curd but what stands out is the dry extract and sweet tannins. This can and will age – there is no doubt. Picked on September 17th, 2023 – a week later than previously – on the 24th. Less than 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

500 Years of Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2018

Prequel: an intimate tale of Renaissance Florence; a description of the history of the Chianti area and the Capponi family up to the purchase of Villa Calcinaia. No not 1244, 1352, 1435 or even a reminiscence for Pier Capponi to 1494 but the toasty, gingered-oxidative style does suggest an older bubble. The name conjures antiquity, Chapon as Capone for Cappone, French influenced, as in Champagne method sparkling wine nearly 50 months on its lees and finishing dry as the Greve valley in a hot season. Orange skin, reduced lemon, lemongrass herbal, a kiss of pace (or “pace”) and a brush with sage success. Spicy, high acid, unrelenting and long. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia AD 1613 Rosso Toscana IGT 2011, Toscana Rosso IGT

The High Renaissance; from the Renaissance to the Grand Duchy, life at the villa and how it was organized. Old, alive and well, one-third each sangiovese (with mammolo and malvasia nera) in ode to the nearly 150 Chianti properties, especially villas owned by the Capponi in the 16th and 17th centuries. Alive more in spirit than corporeal standing because fruit fully waned has given way to frutta di bosco, secco and a creamy chestnut purée. Acids are persistent, the wine hangs loosely but tough enough to keep on keeping on. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Rosso 2006, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

World’s largest voluntary emigration, red gravy and Chianti; the Chianti Classico; the Capponi family plants the first non-promiscuous vineyard in the area. The Bastignano vineyard’s top estate drop comes out six years after conversion to organics and 10 years after the help of Roberto Bandinelli brought Calcinaia into its present state. Only 168 bottles (pus 50 magnums) were produced for this higher pH (3.44) and low alcohol 2006 (12.21 abv) for something that lasts with a continuance of acidity, though the fruit is dried, leathery, liquid cocoa flavoured and marked by a cupboard full of spice. A warm vintage that has evolved quite rapidly, or at least indicative by this bottle. Drink up with haste. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Trebbiano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

The first vintage was 2017, originally aged in French wood but now in casks made by a Rufina craftsman called Carmignana. The mix is 80 percent Tuscan oak and (20) chestnut for trebbiano as a white in many ways acting more like a red. At least in terms of structure and coming form the west bank of the Arbia where a mix of soils bring all the elements to the vines. Harvested in mid October, incredibly and famously so, a new frontier for this area, a wine of acid and texture, notably phenolic, made rich by 10 months in the wood. Delivers that honeysuckle and acacia sensation, partial malolactic creaminess and a finishing note of honey. Good succulence and then length. Did not expect this level of complexity and it just might age for a spell. 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Querciavalle Malvasia Nera Ritmo 2022, Toscana IGT

The current vintage of the malvasia is the one that makes Valeria Losi think of Spring. The earliest roses, also not quite but maybe hinting at violets, but what it brings are flowery sensations, intense and stronger than fruit. This is a matter of eight to ten years ago really getting down and into vinifying malvasia on its own and finding the best of the variety for what it can do alone. It’s a tradition but a familial one and very specific to Losi. Super integrated tannins, non-aggressive and fine. A most unique and special wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Cavalier Tranquillo 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

A simple red, the way Valeria and Riccardo Losi’s grandfather used to make Chianti Classico when white grapes were permitted. Just a spice of white grapes, five percent in this vintage for a light, crunchy, fresh and simple red. Fun Rosso. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Rondò 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Rondò, a kind of music but there happens to be a grape also called this way – but this gives the way of a round leaved foglia tonda and so this is a matter of onomatopoeia. Round and yet forceful, tannic and so implosive, intensely so. Mon dieu. What a massive but drinkable wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2009, Toscana IGT

What do you remember about 2009? “The problem was in August with one very hot week (40-plus degrees) that stopped the plants,” says Luca Martini. Sangiovese however is a very resilient variety. Most thought the wines would have no staying power and they would have been wrong. This shows great freshness and subtle spice, more than amazing for a 15-ish year-old sangiovese. Still showing in the early to middle stages of secondary. Fine acidity, not so high but special. Supportive and always the catalyst to make the fruit sing. A remarkable showing for Percarlo and a wine drinking perfectly right now. Will linger this way for five or more years. “It may not have the potential to develop more complexity, “ says Luca, “but it will stay like this for many more.” Like Barolo, in a way. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Utopie Grand Cru Doublé, Prodotto En Infiascato Dell Azienda Atipica, Morraiole 2008

A collaboration between Luca Martini and Roberto Voerzio, 50-50 Percarlo (sangiovese) and Voerzio Barolo (nebbiolo), more for fun at the time, for shits and ironically serious giggles than anything else. The question of course is why and can these two highly opinionated grapes work well together? Is the sum greater than the parts? Well, no of course but try to think about this in a different way. Only produced twice, in 2008 and 2010, the idea (and label design) by (journalist) Barton Anderson. Luca thought it was oxidized from the beginning so he called Roberto who replied, “you don’t know nebbiolo.” No trust for two years but then it began improving and hit its peak two or three years ago. The nebbiolo is more dominant, especially the style of the tannins and the fruit darker, a dusty example, more typically nebbiolo. Floral note just has to be Percarlo, that and the tufo mineral but still the nebbiolo wins. Maybe 2010 will be the opposite. The idea came from Maurizo Castelli and the sangiovese meets nebbiolo at Volpaia. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

With Bernardo, Corso, Margherita and Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2021, Toscana Centrale IGT

The village of Flacciano, the old Latin name that became Panzano, though there is still a place in the vineyard’s valley that bears the name. The name of the church where the cross was located in that valley before the 18th century. The church where you made a payment of “indulgenza,” so that HE would pardon and gift your place in paradise. The 2021 is a truly generous if still shy Flaccianello of that necessary wish for balance between substantial fruit and structure, high acidity and an overflowing mouthful of pure sangiovese. Seems to taste lighter and hide alcohol, so much more so than it is truly built upon and the age ability is very great. No other sangiovese expresses the luxe and voluptuous capabilities of sangiovese grown on Pietraforte in Panzano like Flaccianello. That’s just a fact and yes it is true that some see this archetype in terms of densities and ponderosity. Consider what matters most. Balance determines outcome and 2021 is right there where it needs to be. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2020, Toscana Centrale IGT

Very little movement from the magnanimous 2020 Flaccianello that made the most of its Pietraforte and there will be no doubt that it will age as well as just about any vintage of the last 40 years. The 2021 is conglomerate sandstone incarnate, of mineral and fruit bonds unbreakable and the fruit to shine through binds tied strictly tight. Last tasted February 2024

The new generation says “Flaccianello is it’s own thing and I don’t want it to become something else.” The words of Bernardo Manetti and yet Dad will say. “It will become Gran Selezione – before I retire.” Them’s promising words for a wine of Pietraforte tannins and from 2020, another season for great concentration. Focused and precise and while tight there is something more immediately beautiful and gratifying about Flaccianello 2020. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

I Fabbri Rosato Castle Ros’ E’ 2023, Toscana IGT

Reserved sort of Rosato, lithely tart, malic and a colourful display that marks a stylistic choice for Susanna Grassi’s first kick at the blush can. The acidity of Lamole is the catalyst and the driver for expression and result. Just perfect with salumi artigianale and hard, salty cheese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Two things about Gratius, not just in this vintage, but two things that really stand out. One is how far from dark and opaque this vintage is when you think about how big and dark the wine should be. Second is how great a nose, or says Morganti, “it has a good nose,” realistic in tone, but the Gratius comment is as understated as anything he will ever say about anything. This is elegance and red fruit sangiovese incarnate, open and floral, so different in a complete way than any or all of the three appellative CCs. A new label design for 2020, busier, with more symbolism and commentary than ever before. Last tasted May 2024

Unlike 2020 Riserva the underbelly of structure, depth and layered acidity combine for aggressiveness and tension. Bigger Gratius in 2020 with potential as high if not higher than that of 2019. A wall of sound, structure and vision. Tasted February 2024

Campione: “With Gratius we work in a different way, aging in barriques and tonneaux,” explains Iacopo Morganti. From 2022 the aging will happen in 15 hL Austrian wood. Big wine from 2020 and that is not written, spoken and pronounced lightly. It is the vintage, hot and heavy, a romance between sangiovese and weather that does not happen so often. A lustfully romantic wine but be patient and allow the friendship and the longevity of the union to develop. Two years in wood and now needing a “cleaning” by way of vegetable gelatine (vegan, 3 g/l per 4hl) and then bottled by the end of the year. Very tannic finish. This should be Gran Selezione. It’s single vineyard and arguably the top wine. Starting with 2020 the artwork changes on the label with each vintage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana Rosso IGT

Today it is worth talking about the difference between Gratius and Chianti Classico (as a combined mix of all three levels) because the freshness and qualities delivered by the field blend varieties create a posit tug between salty and sapid. Gratis 2019 is getting close to resolving the wood and its chalky river of tannin. Big and bountiful, a buzz of energy plugged in and time still the ally. Last tasted February 2024

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2021, Toscana IGT

Not released but already bottled. A bigger Vecchia Vigna, if surely because the old plot is a more than conjunctional mix of 70 percent sangiovese with ciliegiolo, colorinio, caniaolo, malvasia and trebbiano. if you compare to the 2022 barrel sample this ’21 now rests in a quieter, somewhat closed phase. Also a palate texture of silk and glycerol but acids are raging. This demure of aromatics marching alongside and matched up against intelligent if also incredible lift does the kinds of things to the palate that the Grand Selezione simply does not. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

The crunchiest old vines field blend that anyone will ever taste, anywhere such wines are made. Why, well simpy because it is made with sangiovese plus reds and a white grape. So why were white wines planted with reds? To help fix the colours of the red, to add acidity and also to sweeten for table grapes, wrapped in wire nets to keep the animals and birds away. A cultural inclusion and a heritage imperative. This is so young, much like the GS 2020, immovable, powerful and tannic. But there are more fruits involved, especially cherries but also citrus. Tons of citrus. Almost like corbezzolo but also pomegranate. So fascinating! Last tasted February 2024

An apposite vintage to 2018 for this unparalleled field blend of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano though since 1948 much has changed and more sangiovese planted means less interruption or intrusion from the gaggle of other grapes. Just as juicy and gregarious while also vertical and filled with old school tension but also charm. Mid-weight and also alcohol, approximately 14 percent but this is a valley of elevation and woods so freshness just fills the air. This is very special. The 2018 was just a bit loose by comparison. Tannin on the back end suggest waiting two years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

Richer and rounder by a mile as compared to 2021 and 2020 (with 2019 not released because of some Brettanomyces, akin to Soldera to be honest). Crunchy acids and succulence, tart with natural sweet edginess and lots of wood still to resolve. The 2020 and 2021 hide the barrel or better integrate it with finer acumen. Last tasted February 2024

The plot was originally planted in 1948 to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano. Hard to find a field blend like this anywhere. Twenty plus percent is original vines and the rest planted, but also restored in 1982. Emanuele Graetz re-planted 1,000 (sangiovese) plants in 2022. Spends 18 months in older wood and yes, this is what you would expect, though how could you possibly know what to expect? Produces only 6,000 bottles from nearly two hectares and the purity is so real, with verticality, some leathery maturity but much more so a juiciness that determines the true spirit of the wine. Is this ready? No, not quite but man you want to drink it. Clean, honesty and remarkably focused despite the potential for tohu vavohu. Picked on the 24th of September. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2021, Toscana IGT

Merlot 2021 is another beast, tannic as the GS and VV but with a different sort of fruit sweetness and rounder disposition. Red fruit incarnate, a sweet an sour raspberry but a dark one, not the kind from Guatemala. Very Tuscan merlot, no in fact wholly Chianti Classico area merlot. No try again – distinctly Falcole merlot. The place always wins. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2020 2018, Toscana IGT

Merlot softens a bit sooner and while this bottle (at this moment) might feel just a touch mature the rest of the wine’s parts are all in perfect pitch. Lift is weightless and elevated, acidity sweet and touchless, tannins tight and in control. In the end the sand and Galestro rule the fruit to remind of place. A place called Falcole. Last tasted February 2024

Will be called Auré which stands For Maurizio and Loretta, owners of the property who have sold to Emanuele and are responsible for planting the merlot in 1978. Just six rows making 1,200 bottles maximum and one of the few old vines examples gone solo in the Classico area. I mean you have to taste this merlot to believe. Plenty of fruit but red with no tar, char or smokiness. Instead all perfume, picked a week ahead of sangiovese, nothing drying or leathery but just the sweetest textures, aromas and tannins. A great site and yes merlot is special for where it comes. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Jurij Fiore & Figlia Occhiorosso Diforì 2021, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

The word diforì means “drunk” in old Tuscan, as when you would ask someone with red eyes, “are you drunk?” Therefore occhiorosso the grape and its translation as “red eyes.” Jurji Fiore grafted material from Sebastiano Capponi onto American rootstock in a rented vineyard called “Clos de l’Ingénieure” in Lamole surrounded by a short stone wall and the owner is in fact an engineer. The first vintage was 2019 (of only 75 litres) after 18 months aging in a demijohn’s worth. No production from 2020 and though the quantity was high enough to use a few casks, Fiore chose to continue in demijohn for the 2021 simply because it worked so well from that 2019. Nothing else smells or feels like this, so far from sangiovese and yet so very Rosso from inside the Chianti Classico territory. Some might at first feel something sangiovese about it but characteristics differ for this rare grape discovered by Professor Roberto Bandinelli of the University of Florence. Bandinelli was incidentally the consultant for Capponi’s Villa Calcinaia. Wait on this tannic and rustic red soloist for its legs to stretch out and charm to be released. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Lassù A Lamole 2022, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

From the vineyard at Castello di Lamole near to Sono Cosi, down below the road, north facing and surround by wood. Only receives an hour of sun in winter and maybe two or three in summer. Freshest of places and especially for trebbiano. Jurji Fiore considered planting only chardonnay but wanted an Italian variety. Dad suggested famoso from Romagna and so he grafted some, along with chardonnay from Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Lassù is a blend of the three, at the time to fill a tank and now its the recipe. Spice, body and freshness fill the space of this wine, from the three varieties emulsified together. A balanced trilogy from which you don’t feel anything too much, or weight for that matter and the three barrels of new, one and two year old do exactly what’s needed to lift, place and show this Lamole white blend. A bi-phenolic white, at times waxy and herbal, of high level citrus preserve and of an intensity that makes sure to hide the wood. Sara Fiore says it is very dissetante meaning thirst quenching. Fourth vintage and now in a well developed place, style and effect. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia l’Amore Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualità 2021

Second “just for fun” attempt at sparkling wine for Jurji Fiore (and he wasn’t happy with the first) with this having just been disgorged on January 26, 2024. Metodo Classico, blanc de noir, 400 bottles produced. A play on words between Lamole and Amore, sangiovese di Lamole. Great energy, toasted, gingery and all the spice comes out because it’s Pas Dosé, dry as the desert. All the fruit comes from Lamole, a sort of green harvest, in the first week of September more or less. Brilliant second effort. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Concerto Di Fonterutoli 2020, Toscana IGT

The first of the Fonterutoli Super Tuscans born in 1981 of sangiovese with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon in Castellina at 350m of elevation. The vineyard is close to Ser Lapo where clays predominate. The sangiovese sees time in tonneaux while the cabernet sauvignon goes to barriques. Gives some muscle and punch with vanilla and lavender notes and fine tannins. The vintage is big and also lifted, quite so which means time is needed to settle the score. The tannins are austere and commanding at the finish. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Siepi 2021, Toscana IGT

Siepi (first made in 1992) comes from the original vineyard aboard a plateau and 240m, from two parcels, one sangiovese and the other merlot. The latter was planted in the 1980s as an alternative to colorino and to help soften the austerity of the sangiovese at the time. The decision was made then too make a 50-50 blend, “a dream of a perfect wine,” says Francesco Mazzei, “of roundness, colour and style.” The sangiovese dominates today because things have changed with the territory’s climate and soils supporting mature levels of ripeness and finesse from the indigenous grape. The shift is welcomed and applauded because more than ever Siepi represents the identity of the place. Could have been 100 percent merlot 32 years ago “but we could not imagine a wine without sangiovese.” As it must. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Belguardo Vermentino Superiore 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A Tuscan coastal varietal white made from four clones and partially aged on skins for six months in amphora. The genesis is from 2011 though the concept has morphed to create the textural wine that it is today. Two of the clones are Corsican, the other two Sardinian. Fresh, clean and bright with that skin contact salve upon the palate, without weight or residue left behind. Slides and glides easily, extract and tannin are high while seasoning is sea salt and white pepper. If you like chenin blanc and/or grüner veltliner than this should appeal to you. “I think in ten years 50 percent of the wines in the Maremma will be vermentino,” predicts Francesco Mazzei. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingarella is the Greek gypsy daughter with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and colorino. All co-fermented from vines planted in the right zones where sangiovese should not be planted. Humidity zones has much to do with the decisions and so merlot will grow in the cooler locations, the franc in the highest. The young vines make this wine and while it’s very dark berry it’s also liquorice, sweet herbs, drying tannins and variegated richnesses. Violets and dark fruit perfumes but also this vivid quality. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingara 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingara is the Greek gypsy mother and the wine from the older vines, powdery in perfume that really comes through in the duality of cabernets. They, the merlot and the petit verdot make for a Tuscan wolf in Bordeaux knit sheep’s clothing for a blend that is super fresh, tight, and floral. You can really chew this wine equipped of a palate that is like fresh leather but also noted in how juices are squeezed out to be swirled as it is worked by your palate. Great Scott fruit and even finer acidity captured. Super fun wine. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Montevertine Pian Del Ciampolo 2022, Toscana IGT

Mainly sangiovese with bits of canaiolo and colorino, first made in 1991 which was incidentally a cold and rainy season that followed the great 1990. A vintage when Martino Manetti’s father Sergio found himself in position possessive of second, third and fourth level quality grapes. Why not make something to drink? Everyone loved this wine right away. Made here and there but persistent demand determined producing it every year starting in the late 90s. Essentially the pressed wine from la prima Le Pergole Torte and seconda Montevertine. Great freshness from Pian del Ciampolo, as in the “plains of Gianpolo,” as per Dante’s Divine Comedy where Ciampolo appears in Canto XXII of the Inferno. Not much more than a resourseful modicum of structure and truthfully while this could be the equivalent of a Chianti Classico Annata the style and effect are purely Radda in Chianti Montevertine. Ripe acidity, slight Macigno chalkiness and this feeling that the plants and grapes have and are in a 15 year midst in their adjustment to climate change. You would never know this was a wine that came from a hot vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine 2021, Toscana IGT

A warm but balanced vintage, harvest in the first week of October, “the right time for us,” says Martino Manetti. From the vineyards planted in 1984 onwards, infusing fruit born in blocks from 1997, 2000-2008, 2012 and 2014. No barriques, only Slavonian cask and always made in the same way, going back to the oenological days of Giulio Gambelli and through the more current work of Paolo Salvi. Manetti is the first to admit that oenology is not his strongest suit and so a consultant has always been integral to getting the most out of these wines. The 2021 is a profound matter of subtlety and strength, with restraint and power being the hallmarks of Montvertine, but maybe here a bit more fruit, florals and near full-bodied punch as compared to some other vintages. Singular because, well Montevertine but this is truly a matter of the place above all else. There is a Macigno streak running through that speaks in terms defined as Radda and the acidity is expressly Raddese but again, the particularity of the 2021 is Montevertine. A wine made to tell a story of where it was conceived and also where it will go. Could imagine tasting a 2001 and/or a 2011 today and the wines would reveal as variations of a replicable performative theme. Still, with respect to this wine, it would be best to wait two years before seeing the true (2021) vintage light. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Farfaro is the yellow flower that appears in the vineyards to mark the advent of Spring. Blends 80 percent trebbiano toscano and (20) malvasia chianti. “For me the white grapes are the last that I pick” explains Giacomo Nardi, simply because that’s how long they take to mature. From 270m on clay with a mineral stone called lignite, used for fire, a.k.a flint stone, as opposed to brown coal. Honeyed and fresh, dry and so very spring incarnate. You could close your eyes and imagine that you are drinking chenin blanc. Drink the you know what out of this clean white. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri is an ode to Giacomo’s grandparents, 60 percent sangiovese with (40) merlot, aged in older barriques and tonneaux. The gastronomic red, restaurant ready, fresh and the kind of wine to fill the mouth with soft waves of clean fruit. A fine example in a sea of Tuscan IGTs where consumers get very lost. Baccheri is easy to find. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Serrico 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

“This dream is possible because of what my father has done.” Though in general Giacomo may not love merlot, he makes an exception and put this together in a way that rises above the 100 percent new barrique aged soft chocolate examples. This ages 24 months in used barriques, followed by a selection of the top of the top. First vintage was 2017, followed by 2019 and this being the third. Elegant and rich, acids full and supportive, length outstanding. One of Chianti Classico’s top IGTs. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2020, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tasted side by side with the ethereal 2019 and so 2020 by comparison is bigger, broader and more muscular. No shock there when you consider that when a vintage like this comes along there will be darker fruit and more of everything each time it happens. This is a factor of climate change that is not always considered, that the goalposts are moving and while sangiovese’s reaction is up and down, the median point continues to shift forward. Digressions aside this ’20 simply needs more time. The bones are so solid, upright and of a density that any wine of hopeful structure would die for. Sturdy like a mature “quercia grande,” immovable and secure. Less connection to the past but still the DNA is strong – it’s just that it shows this in terms of tannic austerity and foundation. Rich and intense, wood more noticeable and patience required. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2019, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Not only are Herman De Bode & Fanny Huygen restoring the borgo of Podere Capaccia, they are also doing their part to resurrect the past. Querciagrande comes from sangiovese vines planted in 2007 and when winemaker Alyson Morgan arrived in 2012 she wanted those vines to produce this wine. To rekindle the spirit within the place and the wines that were famous for their particularity. This vintage in particular reminds of a kind of red fruit from another era. There is a soft-spoken and simple charm about its ways, along with a generosity, kind spirit and most of all a nurturing for our palates. Very Capaccia yet Querciagrande is ushered into today’s world while maintaining a link to the past. Top vintage for what is surely the goal. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Oriana 2020, Toscana IGT

Varietal vermentino, not usual for the Classico area yet here sense is made in San Donato in Poggio with winds from the Ligurian Sea blowing in, unhindered, no barriers in the way. First made in 1998, grafted over and then restarted in 2014. Not a coastal vermentino but one particular to the soil of Chianti Classico. Silken, glycerin mouthfeel, ripe, almost akin to viognier. The wine’s label by artist Antonio Manzi pays tribute to Bruno Rossini’s wife. Spicy finish, visceral and textural, again so reminiscent of viognier and without the salinity of the sea. Sapidity indeed. Approx. 2,500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and May 2024

Poggio Al Sole Sangiovese Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Speaking for his father Johannes Davaz it is Valentino who explains that there was no Bianco to pour for guests and also friends at the winery. Nor was there a Bianco from sangiovese available anywhere nearby. Davaz rented a chardonnay vineyard “for practice” and so white wine has been made since 2016. In 2019 the first vintage of sangiovese bianco was produced, “in purrezza.” Valentino notes that if you harvest too early, like it’s Rosé, nothing good will come. “What we have learned,” says Valentino, “is that anything less than 12.5 percent alcohol will result in boring wine. You need to find the sweet spot.” Johannes has now spent 10 years trying to understand and figure out the moving target. Practice makes (this current level) of perfect and so just 4.5-5.5 months of lees aging puts the white sangiovese in a world occupied by the likes of (top level Umbrian) trebbiano spoletino, super pure, salty and satisfying. Substantial palate presence and most of all authentic. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2023

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Querciabella Camartina 2020, Toscana IGT

A blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (30) sangiovese, also fruit coming off of estate vines upon the Ruffoli hill. Yes sangiovese is involved but a warm and bold vintage delivers full on, rich and throttled cabernet sauvignon treated in such a restrained and elastically stretched away. That said the youth and immovability put this is linear, vertical yet sleek and suave way. There can be little doubt that this 2020 will have an ability to age with the best of the Camartina so being in any kind of a hurry would be a damn shame. Shy now, two to three years away from just beginning to open and bloom, four to six from what will begin to be its early realities. There is some brotherly fighting happening now but these are varietal siblings that will always get along. They will have each others’ backs. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Palafreno 2020, Toscana IGT

A reminder that this 100 percent merlot became this way after the disasters of 2002, 2003 and 2004. Had been a blend before those nasty vintages. Merlot rarely shows lift and this 2020 has it, almost sangiovese attitude in a way, but obviously a Ruffoli thing. Is this succinctly Ruffoli or merlot? Has to be both but this vintage sways in a terroir direction, neither good nor bad but simply what it is. Calcareously chalky, grippy by sandstone mineral and climate directing a child’s every move. Palafreno 2020 does what needs. The highest production of the last 15 years which means a whopping 6,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Batàr 2021, Toscana IGT

The blend is 50-50 pinot bianco and chardonnay though 2021 lends a bit of a percentage towards the former. Low quantity vintage though it can never be forgotten that an abandoned vineyard in the early days delivered the original 100 percent pinot bianco. Was called “Bâtard Pinot” back in 1988. In 1992 chardonnay was added and the pinot was dropped. Then the Bâtard became a French faux-pas but the Milanese love child continued and finally the D was dropped. Still the homage to Bourgogne always hides under the covers. Skins are truly important for this ’21 and textures are everything. Are these components fine-tuned and refined to a level that really exults the wine Querciabella is trying to make? The answer is yes, in another way than before, though this current (already to market) vintage is so young it’s a crime to even discuss. Balance is spot on, subtlety and soft spoken voice sending positive messages and vibes, but ultimately it needs to be revisited in two or three years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Montegrossi Geremia 2018, Toscana IGT

A mix of merlot and (20 percent) cabernet sauvignon that may not be a wine of appellative origin but make no mistake. This shows Monti in Chianti as well as most though with an added richness and textural weave reminding us that this is in fact not sangiovese but an ulterior mix of the vinous and the opulent. Success with other varieties that grow very well in this southern part of Gaiole given acidity and freshness as a factor of the land littered with Alberese soils. The mix of wood is 10 percent new, (30) second passage, (50) third and finally (10) fourth. Spice and spiciness, from cinnamon through nutmeg and then the accumulation of finest expatriate grape tannins. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Pietraforte 2015, Toscana IGT

A blend but the cabernet sauvignon is 98 percent, with (2) petit verdot. Says Dario Faccin, “for us considered one of the great vintages. “The vineyard is 42 years of age as of the 2015 vintage, the Alberello training now changed to Guyot back in 2013. Philosophy the same, berries selected manually beginning in late October and into early November. The softest extraction at low temperatures for 48 hours to fix essential colour, followed by 25-26 days of maceration and then malolactic in new French barriques. These barrels move on to be used for Riserva (Chianti Classico) in their second year. These are the most refined and softest tannins in Tuscan cabernet sauvignon, so much so that you can drink this now, though in fact it is already more than eight years old. It being a current release tells so much about how perfectly timed the decisions have been, all the way through. Adds Faccin, “history is really important and the wine is history, not the conversation.” Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Piluka Pinot Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Now the fifth harvest and while the vineyard has changed, especially with respect to maturation, though the work in the cellar remains the same. Dario Faccin has planted two more hectares and by 2026 there should be 25,000 bottles in production. Grapes are kept at zero degree temperature for a day, fermentation is cloudy and the wine in old oak is held for a year. Acidity is upwards and above 6.5 g/L, high and mighty for a Tuscan white wine. Creamy palate, acidity that pops and most important truly ripe fruit. If you like top shelf Sancerre, Chablis Premier Cru and chenin blanc from old vines in the Western Cape then this pinot blanc will be something special for you. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Sangiovese Mello 700 2021, Toscana IGT

Single site sangiovese grown at 700m on the western slope of Monte Luco, less than two hundred metres lower than Monte San Michele which at 893m is the highest peak of the Monti del Chianti. Luco is a place that just 10 years ago nobody would consider trying to ripen sangiovese and yet here we are. This has to be the highest planting in the Chianti Classico territory though IGT is the labelling because that elevation is above the parameters, though truth be told this was always going to be an IGT. For the time being. Welcome to the future, though Mello 700 is a costly endeavour, a project that requires the implementation of heroic agriculture and 50 euro ex-cellar pricing is the requiem. Aromas are incredible for this second vintage. Perfumes act the part of Lamole and/or Radda but the real factor is mountain air. Meaning freshness and stylistically speaking you might imagine something like nerello mascalese from Guardiola on Etna Nord. This location is one of ice and snow, not to mention hail but vines here actually sleep through winter. They awaken and by harvest time ripeness happens, though at least for now a verdant streak will always run through the sangiovese. A truly beautiful wine this is and my, what a discovery. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Vas Oro 2019, Toscana IGT

The cabernet franc was planted approximately 15 years ago and this marks the second year as a varietal wine, hopefully to stay this way for a good long time. That said with only 3,000 bottles produced it’s spoken for, but so worth pouring to speak for what the grape can do from Castelnuovo vineyards. It really tastes like cabernet franc with notable chocolate and pyrazine then back again. Muscular franc, toned and handsome. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

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