Presenting the Pieve of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Anteprima Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve presentation in the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

On May 26th, 2025 Godello was honoured and indeed privileged to act as messenger to present the Vino Nobile wines of Tuscany’s Montepulciano to a full house at Toronto’s Aria Ristorante. A Nobile event of this scope is a big deal and it’s important to mention the people in Montepulciano who were largely responsible for making this tasting happen.

Masterclass

That would be the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano President Andrea Rossi and Silvia Loriga who is the Communication and Event Manager. Anyone who knows her is quite aware of just how much she does for Montepulciano. We were all overjoyed that Andrea and Sylvia flew in from Italy to be here with us on that day. Their tireless contributions have played a large part in the evolution we have been seeing from the Vino Nobile over these last 10 years.

Montepulciano Area

Godello’s most recent trip to Montepulciano was just this past February when the weather was much fresher and accommodating than it has been here in Ontario as of late. After one of the tasting days he stepped out from Enoliteca and Consortium headquarters in the Fortezza di Montepulciano to take in the sunshine in the main square. Even though he’d walked the Piazza many times it’s just something you do because these are the moments captured that remind us just how special a place like Montepulciano really is.

Piazza Grande, Montepulciano

Godello’s personal history with the wines and the village of Montepulciano date back 38 years. In 1987 he was a student at the University of Siena and visited the area as part of his studies, returning again in 1990 and 1995. It was 30 years after that first connection was forged before he returned once again, this time during the February Anteprima of 2017. That edition was a special one because the powers that be at the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano thought to amass ten wines spanning four decades, pour and present them as a 50 year retrospective Montepulciano masterclass, launching with the Contucci 1967. The tasting was more than a stroke of regional genius. It was both a major risk to take and a gift of great generosity. There was no way of knowing how those early wines of DOC origin would show, or if in fact that any life would still be left in them.

Related – 50 years of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

50 years of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

While some examples expressed themselves with more spirit and vitality than others, any doubt cast on the structure of the Montepulciano sangiovese had been vehemently cast aside. At the time it was still fashionable to qualify the wines as prugnolo gentile but today we are comfortable to say sangiovese as an essential varietal distinction that encompasses the many clonal variations used. Sangiovese is the beating heart of Vino Nobile and by now well beyond reproach.

That event celebrated 50 years but the territory’s history obviously goes back much further. “The oldest documented reference to the wine of Montepulciano is from 789 in which the cleric Arnipert offered the church of San Silvestro or San Salvatore at Lanciniano on Monte Amiata a plot of land cultivated with vineyards in the estate of the castle of Policiano. Later, Repetti mentions a document in 1350 (in his “Historical and Geographical dictionary of Tuscany”) which drew up the terms for trade and exportation of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.”

“The Sixties brought a reawakening in winegrowing geared principally towards the production of Vino Nobile rather than Chianti. State and EU funds used by the wineries to convert their vineyards into conformity with the requirements of the DOC (1966), enabled new wineries to enter the market. Recognition of DOCG status came in 1980 and Vino Nobile began a new life.”

Back in 2017 in advance of the 50-year seminar the Annata 2014 and Riserva 2013 vintages were presented. The challenge of that time in history’s growing seasons showed the fortitude and persistence of Montepulciano’s producers. You can throw a difficult set of weather patterns at the Vino Nobile but you can’t break their spirit. The ’14s were different, that much is clear, but more than enough quality, firm grip and structure was available to send these wines well into the next decade. Look for ‘13s and ‘14s now – you will be surprised by their longevity. For the most part the ‘14s were a grounded bunch, the 2013 Riserva more of an elegant crew and as representatives of the multiplicity of sangiovese they are classic snowflakes, each different, as sangiovese always are. They are also wines that do not swing their arms, an indication of a secretiveness of character. Which smarted into contradiction a connection to the ten Vino Nobile wines in that 50 year study. It explained how exciting it was to spend time with them in 2017. This to say to all of you how special it will be to spend time with the wines you have in front of you today. And also looking 10-15 years forward. Even more so because the quality and diversity of Vino Nobile sangiovese have never been greater.

Contucci 1967

Contucci’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ’67 was produced during a significant year in world history. The first heart transplant, the Six-Day War, the Monterey Pop Festival, The World Exposition in Montreal, The first Super Bowl and the release of the Beatles’ Sgt. Peppers Lonely Heart Club Band. It was also the year Celtic beat Internazionale in the European Cup Final. Contucci’s Vino Nobile is from a time when there were maximum seven commercially organized producers in Montepulciano and only the second vintage as a denominational wine.

About the Boscarelli 1982 Godello wrote “The Boscarelli acts like a much younger Nobile, from an exceptional vintage and a producer way ahead of its time. The key is to decide which side of the evolutionary fence we’re on, closer to that 1967 from Contucci or to what is happening today. This may actually be the turning point for Vino Nobile because it really has one foot entrenched in each world.”

The Pieve

The Pieve Project marks a new era for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as a new classification system within the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

designed to emphasize terroir and regional identity.

This photogralh was taken in February while the President was conducting an on camera interview. It’s still worth wondering if the post production crew edited out Godello’s “mi scusi dottore. Posso?”

Consorzio President Andrea Rossi

Let’s lay out what the Pieve Project is all about:

– Why and how Pieve Project was developed

– The rules of Pieve Production

– The aim and ambitions of the Producers and Appellation

– The History of the Area

– The Geological Landscape

– The Evolution of Wine Expression across the different sub-zones

– The Future of Communicating the Pieve Project.

The Pieve initiative aligns Vino Nobile with other terroir-driven classifications like Chianti Classico UGAs, Barolo MGAs and Burgundy climats. This is really worth talking about. Yes it is true that the Pieve resembles these initiatives pursued by other denominations but for Vino Nobile the connection to heritage and religious history is undeniably strong. It also takes the most important aspects of each of those other three distinctions and combines them to create a strong and particular ownership for Montepulciano. In Italian we would say “proprio.” As with the Chianti Classico UGAs the Pieve develop strong inter-personal relationships between like-minded producers making wines form estate vineyards in close proximity to one another. Like the Barolo MGAs the whole of the territory is defined by two distinct terroirs with a line drawn between them. We will touch upon that in a moment. And like Burgundy’s Climats the lineage travels through geography-geology-topography-landscape-position-relief-aspect-exposure-slant-elevation-slope-soil-vegetation-weather-microclimate-humankind-heritage-history-tradition-knowhow and temperament. It all adds up to Pieve. In Burgundy each Climat is a place with its own microclimate and specific geological conditions which have been carefully marked out and named many centuries ago. But Climat must include the human interaction with the place. Each has its own story, produces wines with a distinct character and maintains its place in the hierarchy of crus. Again, Pieve, though time and the market will sort out the pecking order.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

In February the Pieve project was introduced for the first time in Montepulciano’s Sanctuary (or Tempio) of the Madonna di San Biagio. Developed over four years, the project enhances transparency, quality and consumer understanding of Montepulciano’s wines. The word Pieve comes from the Latin plebs, meaning “common people.” Historically that referred to rural parish churches in Tuscany which served as spiritual, social, and administrative centres. I Pievi were crucial in shaping Montepulciano’s cultural identity, dating back to the medieval era.

The new classification pays homage to these historical divisions, connecting wine to the centuries-old traditions of land and community.

Three Pillars of the Pieve Project

The classification is based on three core aspects that define Montepulciano’s terroir:

   1.  Historical Cadastral System (The Pievi)

The project follows historical territorial divisions, reinforcing regional identity.

   2.  Geology & Soil Composition

A mix of Pliocene marine-origin soils, Pleistocene sands, clay, and limestone defines the wines’ structure and aromatics.

   3. Landscape Morphology (Climate & Terrain)

Elevation (250-600m), exposure, and climate influence grape ripening and wine style.

The Consorzio organized a major tasting held to validate the Pieve Project featuring submissions from nearly all Pieve subzones to analyze distinct regional characteristics. Key Insights from the tasting evaluation confirmed that each Pieve expresses unique traits directly tied to its soil composition and growing conditions. Producers demonstrated the ability to craft wines with a clear sense of place, reinforcing the importance of terroir-driven winemaking.

This comes from having tasted nearly 30 examples in February and in my opinion when I assessed five Vino Nobile from the same Pieve a thread was certainly there. The characteristics shared between wines were less challenging to recognize than the sangiovese from Chianti Classico or Montalcino. This feature will be a great positive for the messaging of the Vino Nobile.

And so this leads to the Pieve Message:

That as keepers of the Pieve the Consortium will manage the rules to produce wines combining classicism with the contemporary Pieve Style.

   1. To the Producers this is an invitation to communicate the distinctiveness of the subzones.

   2. To the Journalists this is a way to understand and express the values of the territory, pushing towards continuous improvement.

   3. To the Wine Trade the chance to expand the reach of the appellation and cultivate global Pieve ambassadors.

   4. To The Local Montepulciano Community an opportunity to capitalize on the ways to develop the wine economy and tourism in the region.

We should all be looking forward to reading the manual assembled by Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi and American journalist Jessica Dupuy who have been tasked with delving deeply into the soils, geology, culture and tradition behind each. All of which will help us figure out what’s in our glass.

  1. Pliocene part with maritime sedimentation
  2. Pleistocene part with fluvial lacustrine sedimentation

 

Notice the arch that separates the two. Notice it’s like the line in Barolo that separates the Seravallian from The Tortonian terroirs

From May 2022, the Consortium of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is the first Consortium in Italy to be certified sustainable with 70 percent of wineries (over 60) having already invested in sustainability projects.

The 12 wines poured at the Masterclass

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022

This is the only 2022 tasted and when these wines arrive on our market they are truly from a five-star vintage and arguably the strongest lot of the last 10-15 years. The Gracciano Estate is one of the oldest wineries in the Montepulciano region. In the beginning of the 19th century, Gracciano was owned by the Svetoni family who built the Villa and created the Italian-style gardens that surround it. The property was inherited by the current owners, Marco, Vannozza and Galdina della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco, through their father Giorgio.

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

The estate dates back to 1962, founded in Cervognano by Egidio Corradi and is now at 63 years of production. It then passed into the hands of daughter Paola Corradi and her husband Ippolito De Ferrari. Then came Luca and Nicolò De Ferrari.

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021

Fattoria Svetoni was commissioned by Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the 18th century and ended in the mid-19th century. In 1865 the Svetoni family began producing wine. Its 23 hectares of vineyards in Gracciano were acquired by Podere Rubino in 2017.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020

The current epoch began in 1996 with agronomist Luigi Pellegrino and his first vintage of Vino Nobile. His father Santo Pellegrino had started the estate in Cerliana with grandfather Luigi back in 1960.

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2021

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Sotto Casa 2020

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2020

On several occasions Godello has had the opportunity to taste the Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano sangiovese of Tuscany’s Carpineto winery with Antonio Michael Zaccheo Jr. Carpineto Appodati comprises five Tuscan estates; Dudda and Gaville in Greve in Chianti, Montepulciano, Montalcino and Gavorrano in Maremma. No less than 28 different wines are produced off of the five properties and while Dudda in the Chianti Classico appellation is the epicentre of the operation it is the storied Vino Nobile sangiovese from Montepulciano that have garnered the most international accolades.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cerliana 2021

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021

Founded in 1937, thanks to the initiative of 14 pioneering producers, it is the oldest wine growing and wine producing cooperative in Tuscany. For almost 80 years they have been a driving force in the region…almost single-handedly sustaining the DOC following the Second World War. Today it remains a cornerstone in the region…widely recognized as being a key promoter of Montepulciano wine, culture and tradition.

 

The following wines were tasted in Montepulciano, February 2025

Pieve

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

Once again the ancient place and Cantina Storiche of De’ Ricci takes on the newly defined Pieve distinction with, well true distinction. If 2022 seems to well with fruit concentration then 2023 takes the luxe sentiment one step further. Perhaps just because of its unresolved rebellious youth but this follow-up seems almost too deep in nature. Perhaps just a bit pressed and caught up in the revelry of the new UGA-esque notion but judgement can be reserved, at least in part to allow for another year of settling. No doubt a wine that should not be released this early – here is to planning for an assessment one year forward to find this wine in a more nurturing state.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantina Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Ascianello 2022

The Pieve work from one of Montepulciano’s most historical estates where a 3,000 year-old grotto houses the ancient cellars. One of 12 designated parishes, Ascianello, extending south from Badia and home to an identified terror of silty clay sediments overlying fine-grained sand. De’ Ricci’s “Classico” is so very Villages like pinot noir and the Pieve shows more like a Premier Cru because of its luxe concentration. The località meets frazione at the intersection of geography enhanced by the vortices of geology provides for this truly special sangiovese. Rolling with waves of varietal acidity that only Montepulciano can provide and even more succinctly as Ascianello. The definition of succulenza. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

The Pieve designation is Caggiole and the style that comes from that parish seems to be one of more density (in relative terms) with clay soils surely the origin. This would put Caggiole in a Santenay-like category, responsible for wines of weightier texture and fuller mouthfeel. Acidity does well though the pH feels higher and so salty protein would really aid and abet alongside. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

A second Caggiole design brings the clay into play for a Pieve-level Nobile sangiovese with weight affected by gravity. There is a low rumble to this sangiovee, a baritone effect and some oxidation already noted as being out of a warm and quicker to mature 2021. Drink up. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2022

There is more energy and intensity in the Caggiole from Poliziano but youth is surely involved in the determination and understanding of the feeling. The acidity is consistent with 2021 though this Pieve sangiovese just feels brighter and effusive in relation to that very promising sister. To be honest they are as close in age, style and sentiment as any consecutive Pieve wines and so the consistency of the house style is recognized, appreciated and celebrated. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Caggiole 2021

Poliziano’s Pieve is Caggiole, of tuff, clay, stone and Pliocene sands and while there is some weight to the 2021 it’s not fully affected by gravity. Not quite lithe and weightless but it does hover above the ground with a relative lightness of being. Indelible stamp of place and such ideal acidity will see this live as long as any of the entirety of the ‘21s. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Pieve Cerlina delivers a sound and solid sangiovese for Antico Colle with medium weight and density across its notes and mouthfeel. You can sense the sapidity in the fruity aromas, like minerals cut through stone and berry before transitioning to palate intensity. Truly black cherry flesh and stone, not quite, but edging to the typical bitter finish. A style for house and from place. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2021

Bravo to the producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano because from the get go there are examples of one Pieve or another that show immediate commonalities. As here from Cerliana and its eponymous estate La Cerliana. Hard not to notice the thread from Antica Colle and through to Valdipiatta. Darker fruit, a mix of succulence and stone, from black cherry to minerals and back. A chalky tannin underneath finishes what adds up to a specific style, here more pressed and pronounced than the others, within and without the parish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

 

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cerliana 2022

Of the three sangiovese tasted from the Pieve Cerliana it is Valdipiatta’s that is expressive of the most fruit and also restraint. Truly floral aromas are cut through by aggregate streaks that enhance without breaking the flow. Also a minor note of elevated volatility but this is a young, tannic and chalky (as per the Pieve) Nobile. Really needs time to settle in. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Serious acidity and a transference from tart to tang then back again with most of this Pieve’s personality defined by that aspect of its structure. A Cervognano of fullness, also in the tannin and in this case a well-pressed and extracted example. Just a bit over the top in that regard, with some austere moments and hard times in the tannin. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

From the Pieve Cervognano where what feel like the darkest red through black fruit sangiovese rising and come to the fore. A crisp, crunchy and bears repeating croccante iteration with the black cherry flesh and stone so dominant throughout its character. Another pressed and here also woody Vino Nobile needing time to get to its intended destination. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

While other Pieve-designate Vino Nobile from Cervognano reside at the darker fruit end of the spectrum it is this by Le Bèrne that dials it back a couple of notches with noted levels of restraint. A longer and softer maceration must be the reason, perhaps as long as 60 days and that is the impetus to abide by this specialize terroir. A solid composition categorized as proverbially elegant and it translates unequivocally into this sangiovese of mind-bending intensity. The push-pull posit tug between salinity and sapidity is doubly and dubiously palpable, at once filling the mouth with elements and then conversely minerals. The age-worthiness of this 2021 will be as long as any in the parish and indeed the appellation. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

A true blue mouthful of Cervognano intensity with dark fruit yet smartly held back just enough as far as pressing is concerned. The team is smart, savvy and in a short time has already begun to learn the nuances of the parish. A professional wine in every regard, high in acidity, serious of tannin and something to be regarded as a Nobile that will see through to its longevity. An auspicious and impressive entry to be sure. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Cervognano 2021

Full and substantial, of maximum fruit set upon a traditional and classic frame. Far less austere and tannic than expected which suggests the estate wished to do something modern with their Pieve Nobile. Gracciano is the origin and if this is any indication the parish is one to produce straightforward and luxe fruited sangiovese. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2021

The eponymous estate for the Gracciano Pieve follows suit with as much aromatic waft and palate coating fruit as any in all of Montepulciano. A sangiovese that mixes the reds, blues and blacks for a stirring rendition to bring great flavour and texture upon the palate. Not the most tannic or structured example in this view and one to drink ahead of the rest. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Gracciano 2022

Slightly problematic nose on the Pieve Gracciano 2022 with more than a mere note of Brettanomyces. Plenty of substantial fruit as per the parish but the microbes are a distraction and carry over to the palate, The tannins are rendered brittle and the wine fades away.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Le Grazie 2021

Another Pieve in delivery of Vino Nobile as a dark and handsome sangiovese, this being Le Grazie, with thanks to its soil and climate. Good fortune smiles on this by Taloso because acidity and backbone are equal to the task, to exult that fruit and result in a big yet balanced wine. Impressive stature and potential indeed. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Palazzo Comunale, Montepulciano

Le Bertille Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve San Biagio 2021

First bottle TCA. Second is sound. Now from Pieve San Biagio, one of 12 Montepulciano parishes delineated, designed and delivered for identified styles of sangiovese. Or that is at least the hope, idea and plan to present 12 different expressions that speak of their origins. There is a skin muskiness that speaks to both maceration style and time, but also the soil it would seem. Also a late mustiness noted, not to the point of total distraction and certainly not egregious but the wine is not perfectly clean. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2021

High tonality and acidity combine for a specific style of Vino Nobile, here from the Pieve of Sant’Albino. These are lighter sangiovese with an eye to the sky and mixed feelings, from brightness and lightning. Also (and clearly) a house style, dusty, excitable and high flying, notably marked by Balsamico and ready for action. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Albino 2022

A repetition of estate style runs from 2021 through to this 2022 though the fruit quality and quantity is undoubtedly higher this time around. More extraction and what feels like longer hang time which brings about some early maturity, even in the face and with thanks to seriously high and spicy acidity. Again it’s a factor of place but also house. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

Moving on to the next parish, that being Pieve Sant’Ilario and a Vino Nobile of powerful restraint. Somewhat reserved and demure but still you can’t help note the tannic intensity in all its seriousness plus austerity. Drying with herbals and all the Macchia Mediterranea meets barrel that could be captured in a bottle of Montepulciano sangiovese. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2022

As far as the Nobile from Pieve Sant’Ilario are concerned it is this 2022 that is expressive of the darkest set of fruit. A black cherry cut by mineral stone that bears resemblance to the Pieve wines of Cervognano. Yet different because there is a lack of finishing bitterness. This goes in a another direction, acting smooth and gelid, almost metallic at the finish. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr. Srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’Ilario 2021

The continuity already threads from one Pieve Sant’Ilario to another with sangiovese marked by their high intensity matched by proper restraint. They just don’t seem to give too much away too soon. Still they accumulate fruit, mineral and muskiness noted on the palate, juicy and succulent, without high glycerol and in this case a natural if not entirely spic and span profile. No matter and some will surely note the rusticity while others, will like it all the same. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Sant’ilario 2021

From a storied estate with holdings in more than one parish, in this case Pieve Sant’Ilario where the dichotomies between aromas and flavours are duly noted. Restraint followed by a deep wheeling of musky churned fruit, first one and then the other. The old cellar does bring old school style and austerity, more so than others and of their two Pieve Nobile tasted this is the charming Vecchia. Hard not to be seduced by its ancient grace and charm. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2021

Pieve Valardegna brings a whole new or ulterior set of Vino Nobile parameters to the table. Il Molinaccio’s is less austere, more modern and gainfully expressive of style. Not exactly luxe or rich but certifiably ample and beautifully balanced, if not a high acid sangiovese style. Stay with this wine for some time and you will realize the structure is more pronounced than at first thought, which tells us the wine will live well and long. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Godiolo Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valardegna 2023

A different expression for Pieve designate Montepulciano altogether, here light and with a feel of carbonic maceration. It’s a lovely, glou-glou style of sangovese, fresh and spirited but one will wonder how it stacks up as a representation of a specific Pieve. A touch reductive, feeling like an unfinished sample with time the reality holding its meaning for what will eventually be revealed.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pieve Valiano 2021

The only example of Pieve Valiano presented is this quite composed and restrained sangiovese. Floral to a degree and kinder as well but fruit is of highest importance. Not particularly structured as a result or more to the point a factor of style and so drink this early to gain entry into and make some sense of the Pieve ideal. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vino Nobile 2022

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Should the wish to experience Vino Nobile and 2022 in the way nature and climate would ask of you, well then take this right proper sangiovese as the wine to try. Luxe as fruit could be and though more site specific wines will surely elevate the game, with this Nobile there is no drop off in terms of a classico level wine. Wood is perfectly judged so that the braid of acidity and tannin do what is necessary and more importantly what is just. Giusto Vino Nobile, compact and structured with the potential to soften, unwind and release for a promising future. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Svetoni Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High-toned and snappy, lighting red fruit heavy in citrus and matched by the grippy determination from wood. Pomegranate and corbezzolo with spices run amok. A bit awkward at this stage, of an older school in style and a sangiovese surely needing time. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Pagliareto 2022

Dark fruit, dusty, Balsamico and edgy. A touch higher in VA than what should be necessary and yet you can feel terroir in this sangiovese. Also some overripe moments which means you do need to drink this Nobile sooner rather than later. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Guidotti Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A most unique if unusual aromatic style for 2022 Nobile. Floral while expressive of a mix between white and dark chocolate. Not so common for the nose of a sangiovese and the flavours follow suit. Tia Maria but also foxy and just lacking truth, or pleasure.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Lamberto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Well ripened and also pressed fruit brings the florals, minerals and volatile notes to the fore. A full and substantial entry that is nothing if not impressive. The continuation takes the wine to another level and it sails comfortably through a soft, creamy and modern lactic sea. The wood is very much a part of the character but it’s done well and integrates with ease. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Molinaccio Di Montepulciano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG La Spinosa 2022

There are two styles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that express a vintage, one being the luxe and concentrated sangiovese of darker fruit and then there is this. Lighter and transparent yet certain not lacking in its own kind of concentration, or character. The purity, honesty and beauty of sangiovese is real and frankly also seductive. The integration of elements puts this in a great state for a wine that will drink with grace and makes some dreams come true. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Not the easiest vintage to capture all the available florals but such is the case with this aromatic 2022. The garden in all its blooming glory and who could not be seduced by the beauty. Nor is it a fleeting moment because the palate seems to experience more of that seduction and acids follow suit. No relent right through to a finish that lingers, wrapped around fingers and hearts. Well that was something. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bertille Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

High tonality, in other words a string of volatile compounds strong and in command. Tart and then tannic with a hard shell so very tough to crack. Give time as requested though the bitter finish with a shot of espresso tells the barrel story. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG “Arya” 2022

A Nobile more taut and closed than most from 2022, more like vintages past, say 2016 for example. A fortressed sangiovese surrounded by a wall of structural construct that will not open unless time is granted. Just feels like a wine coming from warm days and cool nights, tart in just the correct way, fruit hidden yet aching to be set free. There is great potential in this Vino Nobile. Great potential. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Linea Redi 2022

A sangiovese of place where the evergreen and brushy flora predominate the landscape for a Nobile of vertu Macchia Mediterranea style. A sangiovese that simply can’t help be savoury, expressive of its Balsamico, but also taut and austere. These are the combined effects of terroir, old wood and a warm vintage. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2022

Au contrast and contraire with Vino Nobile ushered into the modernity of today for all the fruit that money can raise, determine and buy. Lush and luxe with all the advantages of a warm vintage extracted and effected. Crisp acidity, exterior crunch and interior chew. Soft and creamy in that way, like black plums swimming in a single syrup of merlot. An amazingly professional Vino Nobile, just about ready to roll and solid as a rock. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vannutelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Signore del Greppo 2022

Highest of volatile tones dominate the aromas and admonish the fruit. A mix of verbena and ribena, pine evergreen and then wood. Lots of wood. Too much wood, finishing at lavender and vanilla extract. As if by French wood. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Az. Agr. Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

A mix of fruit, part fleshy and part desiccated to indicate multiple harvest passes before, at and after the optimum moment. Combines to create a layered Nobile of true Nobile sangiovese-ness. Tart and tannic, within reason on both fronts and well made if a bit rambling and rustic. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

There are some Vino Nobile houses that just know what’s what, have figured out the formula and get things correct out of every season. That is to say the wine that is made is a true reflection of vintage with this Poliziano being the answer to a warm and developed 2022. All parts are captured, preserved and presented at peak. Fruit is musky floral and effusive, acidity sweet and energizing, tannins there with just enough grip to see the wine age well for five, seven, potentially even eight years. Where or what could be the argument against such a total declaration? Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Alboreto 2022

Hard to find a Nobile with more upfront fruit in all its naturally sweet wonder as here with a fortuitously ripe sangiovese. Acids are on the soft yet supportive side to match the semi-tart berries stride for stride. Truly like a bowl of summer fruit picked at just the right time and left to macerate in its own juices. Plenty of immediate gratification on order here. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truly floral and expressive sangiovese at the heart and core of what Nobile is meant to be. More than just style to emulate but something intrinsic, of value and restraint while maintaining heritage, loyalty and composure. Ripe and supportive acids keep fruit buoyed and presented to please. Just enough fine tannin will see to a wine capable of aging more than ten years. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

What could be considered a “Villages” example from vineyards located within the local parish of Gracciano, home to its most famous tenant at Della Seta. Crunchy sangiovese in every way, coolly herbal and focused. Though expressive of a learned maturity this ’23 is not quite settled, aching and edgy for now, a year away from drinking the way it was clearly intended.  Last tasted March 2025

Knowable Vino Nobile style, expression and effect. A child of a warm season, developed through experience, already showing its maturity and ready to please. A concept that depicts character seen and tasted many times, repeated here for a sangiovese that has already arrived at its destination. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Earthy, terroir-driven and chewy sangiovese, old-school, woody and rustic. Substantial concentration with the barrel effect doubling down and the end result being a Nobile of hard tannic qualities. Somewhat overdone and challenging. Drink 2027-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio Alla Sala Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Above average grip in the aromas suggestive of a sapid sangiovese built on botanicals and an Amaro-like tonic. Good richness and concentration, sweet acidity and well-developed texture to cause the wine to coat the palate. Pleasant and lingering, never abandoning its cause to result in a truly positive effect. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Santa Caterina 2022

Correct, of dried petals in rosewater and a pomegranate to currant fruit style. Well-pressed, neither too light nor to dark, not soft, nor hard but somewhere safely in between. Solid construct predicated on acidity over tannin for mid-term aging ability. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Truth delivered through an estate’s particular Balsamico for a Nobile with an extra layer of volatile acidity, caught at a moment within reason if just a shade higher than the wine would wish it were found to be. Just a shade overripe as well with fruit already showing some prune matched awkwardly by the acidity noted at the first. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

Floral, effusive and expressive, of a light-handed touch in the face of a warm vintage. Surely harvested at peak with the savvy of knowing and then capturing the right moment ahead of a potential turn towards the overripe. Acidity preserved as well and well suited to ready for drinking. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Il Macchione Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

A year forward and a return to the great Nobile vintage for which time has begun to do what’s needed to soften a sangiovese. Plenty of wood on this 2021 now melting and integrating for readying the wine. With aeration you could consider drinking ’21 right here and now and because the amplitude and texture are so fine you might see no reason to wait another day. That said another year will really bring this Macchione into a great place. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Sharp red fruit though now relaxed a bit because of the extra year in bottle. Fruit shed tannic oppression and next level of concentration to represent the appellation with proper distinction. Like a bowl of fresh berries with acidity present though never intrusive. Tannins having resolved mean these next two-plus years will be joyous. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Pasiteo 2021

The decision to hold back this Vino Nobile was a wise one because bigger bones made the requiem a necessity to unleash expressive character. Then again the fruit would have been just that much fresher six months ago, but the structure and wood would have both been greater distractions. Now together the union is simpatico though the window won’t stay open long, not before secondary character arriving unabated. Drink up because the chocolate and coffee will only get stronger. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Villa S. Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

The extra year off aging has not done this sangiovese any favours with its decline arriving soon and coming on fast. Acidity and tannin are still present but the fruit is oxidizing as we taste and speak.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Old-school does not begin to describe this wine of the ancients. Volatility thy name is sangiovese while oxidation and sweet fruit get together for a very specific type of Vino Nobile charm. No doubt the sort of Montepulciano sangiovese you have to take time to get to know. You may (or may not) be seduced. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Casa Vinicola Triacca – Fattoria Santavenere Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Santavenere 2020

Here comes the saint, the patron of Vino Nobile that looks out over sangiovese and expresses the local literati of the variety in this ultra specific way. That would be to age longer in wood and release the wine later than some other eager estates. A creamy and soft sangiovese results though one that feels like it could be imagined as being augmented by a grape such as merlot. Not really but you get the drift. Ready to go. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2020

Dark fruit, hung longer than some to concentrate sugars and create this naturally sweet, soft, plummy and full-flavoured Nobile. A good and proper construct, not particularly grippy or tannic and certainly not drying at the end. Still has some quality life left to live. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG 2019

The smell of red crayon and wood all over the aromatics. Taut, tart, brittle, hard and drying tannins. Bit of a dirty wine.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Selezione

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna d’Alfiero 2022

Vegan-designate Vino Nobile and to no surprise a luxe and concentrated, elevated and characterized example. Exaggerates fruit and acidity, treads towards near dangerous territory and yet the amount of fruit available on hand stands up to the volatility. Equips the wine with the sure-fire ability to travel, age and drink in a good way some years ahead. The tannins are currently grippy, austere and drying but they will soften, negotiate and dissipate. Wait three years. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Tenuta Vallocaia Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG I Quadri 2022

The exaggeration of concentrated rusticity and sweet acidity get together for a most interesting example of Vigna Vino Nobile. A single vineyard expression where solar radiation develops fruit and its associated compounds for a chewy and musky sangiovese. A good wine, not particulate complex but well made and prepared to drink this way for up to five years. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigneto Santa Pia 2021

A Vino Nobile of a single vineyard or selection and there can be no doubt this comes from a very Mediterranean place. Macchia notes dominate the aromas, of hillside tea, rosemary and even an olive tapenade. That said the wine is not entirely clean as confirmed by the brittle and hard tannins. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Soraldo 2020

Somewhat luxurious sangiovese though on the naturally fruit sweet and sour heart side of things to express Vino Nobile in a particular way. Not exactly tart and no oxidation has crept in from this unique expression. Length is good and the wine’s linger is a positive one. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Vigna Scianello 2020

Single vineyard Vino Nobile, still quite tannic and yet to advance beyond its structured beginnings. There is a slight oxidative lean on the nose yet the wine stays linear, upright and sturdy. Still plenty of barrel to shed, melt and integrate should the fruit this wish to allow. Dries out at the finish though not without some developing character and complexity. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Contucci Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Mulinvecchio 2020

A mix of red fruit, waxy crayon and raw dough on the nose for a confounding start to this sangiovese. Some grace and charm no doubt but also a level of volatility that may be distracting but surely this is the house style. No missing the substance, character, complexity and experience. As a Selezione this shines for the appellation and the future is bright, while also long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano

Icario Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sansasìa 2019

Problematic – volatile and woody to an uncomfortable degree. Faulted example – Brettanomyces taking over the palate and the tannins.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vigne Vecchie di Famiglia 2019

Old vines make for sangiovese of high-level concentration and when the structural parts follow suit then here you have a Vino Nobile of great promise. Such is the case with this luxe, fleshy and at times severely tannic example but this shall pass and all with come to act and be together as one. Top quality and effect for 2019 and a wine that should live very well into the next decade. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Antica Chiusina 2019

Red fruit tang like few others and a level of volatility edging upwards towards the threshold of acceptance, but also understanding, Treads figuratively and hangs in the balance but there is no doubt that the concentration puts this in Selezione territory. Softens towards the back of the palate and calms right down. Needs food to tame the early distraction. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Montemercurio Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Damo 2016

A maturing and resolved sangiovese that has seen its share of wood and gentle oxidation to arrive at this stage of its tenure. A Selezione of ample substance and chewy texture, some drying tannin and with air some airing in a decanter the wine should be ready to go. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Poggio S.Enrico 2015

Here now a lovey settled and mature sangiovese with its dusty Balsamico character aged into a secondary state of grace. A Vino Nobile in Selezione form now caught in a tidy place with all its parts having come together. Chocolate all over the finish which speaks to the heavy use of wood but this has come to be a lovely drop. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Riserva

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

Added layers and extra concentration define the aromatic proposal of a Riserva that to a producer is from la crème de la crème of Vino Nobile vintages. An ideal time to declare, select, age and bottle Riserva for the ages. This because of unlimited potential qualified by fruit substance, ideal acids and finest tannins drawn from the soils and success of a season. The balance and expressive character are simply tops. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Manvi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Ojas 2021

High level expressiveness delivers fruits studded by herbs and spice but also wood with trenchant intention. Dark Riserva for Vino Nobile and the concentration works to a degree. With thanks to the proper structure of the wine it is the generosity of maceration and pressing that result in a rich and layered sangiovese of depth and deep colour. Will turn to truffle and earth before too long. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Lunadoro Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Quercione 2021

A reductive example of Vino Nobile Riserva but also one with an evergreen character in its aromas. This is followed by palate sweetness in a creamy, wood effected style. A bit gratuitous and sappy in the end. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

In a similar vein and style expressed by the estate’s ’22 Vino Nobile there is this undeniable connection to Riserva ’21. From a set of vineyards from which a selection of Riserva quality grapes, but even more importantly the kind of bunches that represent this appellation. Though the ’21 Riserva is blessed with veritable concentration it also delivers the minerals out of the diamonds in the rough and the structure to age as it should. Well thought out, considered, put together and consummated. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

An incredible concentration of an estate’s climatic Mediterranean experience transcribed as Balsamico of località to define Vino Nobile as Riserva. Luxe of dark fruit, espresso and the cask’s effect brings a seasoning of liquid to fill the cracks. Professional extrovert of a sangiovese for mid-term drinking, or longer term if you wish for secondary and even tertiary character. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2021

TCA. The top two wines for Tenuta Di Gracciano Della Seta are the newly minted “Pieve” label, a sangiovese that represents the parish of origin, one of twelve in Montepulciano, in this case Gracciano for which this estate is both pioneer and leader. The other is this Riserva, not a question of better or more important but instead a matter of using highest quality fruit in the representative way for an historic level of appellation. Using a highly touted vintage is key but again of greater importance is an estate’s view of what they are working with in any given year. A previously tasted sound bottle of this 2021 revealed a sangiovese stimulant, stellar and seductive, with fruit and acidity intertwined in a layering so rich it feeds the palate with a fullness not seen in the other wines. More wood as well, yet to integrate and so potential is high.  Last tasted March 2025

Relatively high-toned Vino Nobile, especially within the idiom at Riserva level and yet the wine feels just a bit hard to get Not a closed nose but just the slightest apprehension to open. The palate is more generous and giving, fruit sweeter and creamy, easy to assimilate and enjoy. Dark sangiovese, yet joyous and abiding. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Vallocaia 2021

Quite a sweet set of aromas, rose floral, Ribena and effusive. Nothing dark or dangerous about this sangiovese, but rather a full and substantial concentration of red fruit with a connection between its constituent parts. Sneaky tannins come late and take charge with their grippy and austere notion. This is definitely the sort of Riserva you need to stay with, give time to release and better yet wait three years to allow for a coming together. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Tenuta Calimaia 2021

Truly similar and connected with the Tenuta’s ’22 Vino Nobile, of dark and luxe fruit caught at optimum ripeness and translated into a silky smooth elixir. A sangiovese that could only come from Montepulciano and more specifically this part of the region. Über professional work and surprisingly tannic which means the aging potential is quite good. Truffle, fungi and a reduction of Tuscan terroir, a.k.a, Balsamico are not far away. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Soc. Agr srl Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

If at first there seems to be a sense of oxidation and a density that obfuscates what charm there should be – do not fear the worst. Things brighten on the palate with a richness of fruit mixed with wood thick as thieves for good times in juicy sangiovese. Continues to improvce as it rests and the best feels yet to come. In the end we get this seriously structured Vino Nobile as Riserva that will change, morph and improve with further age. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG Simposio 2020

Red fruit and florals, simple and effective, not particularly fleshy or substantial. Easy and ready, willing to please and time to get onside. Drink away. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2020

Experienced, dare it be said antediluvian style of Vino Nobile expression. Taut and tart, an intensity not always noted and time still needed to soften the construction. Not a big wine per se but a tight one, spiced and not yet forgiving. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

Cantina Luteraia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG 2016

A tired and oxidative Vino Nobile with acidity still flying high but fruit getting into raisin territory. There would have been pleasure two years ago but the time has past. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at Anteprima del Vino Di Montepulciano, February 2025

A visit at Salcheto

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosato IGT

The only Rosé in production is called Obvius, bottled without sulphites, made from sangiovese with (10 percent combined) canaiolo, mammolo and merlot. Just steel and not produced in every vintage, this being the latter stages of 2020 still being on the market and with 2022 coming next. The cleanest Rosato in this style possible, mimicking an Orange wine without ever being one, but natural it is and natural it acts. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Obvius Sensa Filtri 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Explosive fruit from the 2020 Obvius as Rosso in the series’ natural form, by design and of trenchant intention. As with the Rosato and Bianco these are all free thinking, formed and flowing wines of definition and purpose. Rosso joins the colloquy to take part in the re-writing of relationships between grapes and denomination. In Montepulciano the various forms of DOCG (Annata, Riserva, Selezione and Pieve) take care of the yeoman work and Obvius by Salcheto alters the conversation. Seems to be the point and Rosso makes a real statement. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2021

Just sangiovese aged up to four years, split between cask and bottle, this being the vintage at the end of its run currently on the market. Wild of ferment and style, rich of texture and just that devilishly dangerous hint of game that speaks to the how and why, but also the what in terms of food pairing. The small deer of Tuscany done up in Ragù come to mind. Vino Nobile is almost never quite like this, predicated on texture and mystery that peaks curiosity, all the while there is wonder about how it came to be this way. Now softening from a vintage specific to Montepulciano where acidity was not all that exceptional. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vecchie Viti del Salcò 2018

The signature sangiovese and only made in select vintages from the oldest vines on the estate in vineyards surrounding the cellar. Notably concentrated and with that feeling of a Nobile at the height of experience. Silky, creamy and smooth and still toned. To be honest this is the kind of Vino Nobile that leads a style to be found out of the parish of Le Grazie. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò 2017

From the oldest vineyards up to 35 years of age located around the cantina, 100 percent sangiovese with a minimum aging of five years in 400L tonneaux plus three in bottle. From a certified hot vintage and now into its late years of primary maturity with secondary notes are on arrival. Violets on the nose, mulberry and faux mocha with flavours ranging, rising an falling into soft textures, creamy and settled on the palate. A sangiovese of experience, charm and grace though things will change again before too long. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Toscano Vino Biologico 2013

A sangiovese from another era out of a less than usual vintage and the result being a maturity matched by an acidity surely specific to that season. Secondary notes have fully arrived, of Bokser pod, carob and leathery plum. Not a particularly Balsamico vintage but more so fruit and what feels like saffron. A bit of botrytis perhaps? Or not, though fig and liquorice too are all over the palate and the wine is, or at least was not too long ago surely seductive. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Salcò Evoluzione 2006

Remarkable longevity from a 2006 as a sangiovese coming from 18-plus years ago and with thanks to top quality vintage acidity. Sparks fly from the palate on this signature Vino Nobile in reference to the stream that flows around the valley and the willow trees that populate the terroir. Wow factor impression delivered from a wine designed in another era so persistent and a season for which the scent of Macchia Mediterranea is so pronounced. Some tannin still alive will allow this to stay focused for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025.

Good to go!

godello

Anteprima Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve presentation in the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

 

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The contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur

A journey through the wine-lands of Sicilia is fluid and casual, yet timeless. The island’s contempo rhythms are their own and while each and every region is characterized, in fact stamped by a distinguishing mark or feature, there is a kinship that connects, especially through its people. A nearness of relations from east to west, an imperturbable sense of self-possession juxtaposed against the unspoken rule of being collectively Sicilian. The wine community acts exactly this way, feels irrefutable defined by characteristics of the present period and its modernity shines. People of poise, assurance, self-confidence, culturally and mosaically grouped together through a historic parade of travellers, occupiers, settlers and traders through time, yet belonging to the same contemporary age, living in the same period of time. Behold the contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur.

Eastern slope on Etna, in the town of Milo where only here the Etna Bianco can be labeled with the addendum “Superiore.” From young five year-old carricante vines grown on Alberello at 650m by Fabio Stantino and his family where the conditions are more humid, namely because of the closer proximity to the sea. Cool, gelid and stylish. The kind of Etna Bianco with that mineral, gemstone quality while also one of the more yellow-fleshed fruit pulpy examples juiced by Sicilian orange. Gets white pepper and mango powder exotic at the humid finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2021

From Biancavilla at 900m just at the upper limit of the DOC. Sands, rocks, all volcanic for 100 percent carricante. Quite herbal, of thyme and bay laurel, but also the local Ginestra. Intense tang and thick acidity – creating great salivation and yet the palate lightens in the second half of the wine. You can feel the 12 months in cask because of lees and oxidative movement, for complex notions and preservation. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Grillo Pharis 2022, Sicilia DOC

From Faro on the northeastern part of Sicily where the humidity concentrates and the breezes blow higher. A varietal grillo, quite peachy and freshness important because acidity more than keeps pace. Clean and an afternoon delight of a Sicilian white wine. The tonneaux adds texture and extends the fruit while never adding compaction. Very well rounded and made. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tenuta di Castellaro Eùxenos 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

In the territory of Lipari in the (active) volcanic Aeolian where malvasia rules acroos the 160 hectares of the islands. Fertile soils, like a mix of Etna and Pantelleria. All malvasia (delle Lipari) grown at 350m on sandy basalt soils, of a natural fermentation and a deep golden hue because of a healthy maceration, followed by 10 months in amphora. Delicate perfume, orange blossom, dried white fig, dried and candied citrus before finishing at white pepper. A smoulder and easy character from beyond primary aromas mixing with the volcanics that not only characterize, but define this wine. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

From the area of Castiglione at 680m with 100 percent nerello mascalese. Aging in grandi botti for two years and then 10 months in bottle before release. A richness of style, liquorice and dried tree pod fruit, the wood very much in play and acidity less intense than many. A liquid chalky presence on the palate, still needing another year to resolve. Chewy example, confident and a slow delay of fruit, which is never really all that fresh. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco’s Sofia Ponzini and Godello together again

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre Phylloxera 2017

From Sofia Ponzini in the area of Passopisciaro and her cru vineyard called Vico. Own-rooted, pre-phylloxera vines, more than 100 years old, nerello mascalese and also cappuccio. A reminder that 2017 was cooler than most of Italy, especially the centre and north, but still generally sunny and warm on Sicily, including aboard L’Etna. Just now beginning to open and emit its magnificent perfumes, followed by a textural weave of vinous fabrics and finally the much expected, energizing and aligning archetypal volcanic saltiness. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Mario Paoluzi – I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Aetnus 2011

From Castiglione di Sicilia and specifically Muganazzi where 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio are grown in volcanics but also tufo and pumice. Gamey aroma mixed with the threefold mix for a highly particular balsamico. Ample new (one-third to be precise ) tonneaux which gives this Etna Rosso full on spice meets smoulder to leather-weatherize fruit and finish at drying tannins. Though nearly 13 years of age the wine has not fully resolved, though the fruit is now past peak. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Valle dell’Acate Vittoria Frappato DOC Vigna Bidone Sottana 2023

From the dry black silt and sandy/stony soils of southern Sicily in Acate at sea level. Perfumed, clean, soft tannins and all about its fruit. The single vineyard designation gives focus and direction because this really ancient Sicilian grape owns true potential. Vigna Bidone Sottana comes from old plant material, a 1.88 hectare plot that will only improve and instruct its vines to offer up complexity with more time. A launching point frappato for anyone who wants to know what pleasure can be had from this grape. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Feudi Del Pisciotto Versace Nero d’Avola 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

The territory is Niscemi at 200m on red sandy soils for nero d’Avola that sees a healthy 20 days of maceration. Chewy, an inward and implosive turn of fruit and acidity intertwined. Barrique aged, archetypal nero d’avola that’s quite expected, of lifted aromas, dark fruit and peppery piques. Classic liquorice and a herbaceousness that the grape often shows, ot unlike cabernet franc. Layers of tannin equop this ’21 with a decent potential for aging. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Candido Nero d’Avola 2021, Sicilia DOC

From Camporeale in the western side of Sicily, of nero d’Avola at 400m with no wood aging, only stainless steel. Openly fragrant and varietally obvious, a bit pressed which brings some greenness, pine resin and rosemary with natural tannins. Mix of ripenesses in the tannins which can feel austere and rustic. Honest and real continental example of nero d’avola. Dries out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Duca di Salaparuta Triskelè 2021, Sicilia DOC

A unique area for nero d’Avola, from Riesi and Butera heading into Western Sicily. Specifically from the The Suor Marchesa Estate, of clay and calcareous soils at 350m with aging in new and second passage barriques. The wood is very much involved, of grainy texture, waves and layers of spice, toasty and salty. Rich and high acid as well to keep the energy up. This must resolve and integrate further, which will happen in two-plus years though after five it will surely arrive into mushroom and truffle. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Grillodoro Late Harvest “Noble Rot” 2018, Sicilia DOC

A rare botrytis-affected dessert wine for modern day Sicilia, a grillo allowed to reman on the vines longer than any other in southwestern Sicily. Mid-October through early November, a few bunches at a time picked and brought in over at least a two week period. Not a Passito, more Sauternes as an example and finishing at 140 g/L of residual sugar. Late harvest berries sent to wood, acidity more than perceived and in fact preserved, persevered and prepared to lead the fruit. Pineapple and apricot, quite fresh considering the agricultural method and also the aging style. Perfectly clean, honeyed, a touch waxy on the palate with corresponding saltiness, gently tannic with lemon iced tea. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

Related – Notes from 2019 Sicilia en Primeur

Related – L’Etna and Parco Statella saved my Sicilian quarantine

Godello with the AIS Sicila Sommeliers

Related – All the wines of Sicily

Related – Sicily’s varietal concentration: Measuring an island’s wealth in grape varieties, a journey through its winelands and tasting Sicilia en Primeur

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

En Primeur Sommelier Tastings

Spumante

Castellucci Miano Brut 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT 

Distinctly catarratto with a lime twist and boundless energy. Scintillant style, high tempo, treble off the charts and length to boot. Just a lovely ceremonial bubble for happy occasions. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Firriato Gaudensius Metodo Classico Pas Dosé, Terre Siciliane IGT

So very curious and suggestive of glorious sparkling which is about as light in colour as any found anywhere this style is made. Not just Sicily and the near absence of skin contact time puts this is a singular space amongst peers, especially on Sicily with nerello mascalese. Drinks with ease yet also a controlled intensity of emotion. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 20244

Principe Di Corleone San Loé Brut 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP

Quiet and demure, crunchy and mounting momentum after first sips. Gains traction and stars to presume a great stage presence before lingering effortlessly. Just a bit of sweetness distracts but this is both a well made sparkling and consumer rounding one. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Brut Nature Metodo Classico Enrica Spadafora 2018, Vino Spumante Di Qualità

Stays on lees for 36 months, Pas Dosé because all the wines are dry and that is the estate’s firm direction. Freshness yes but grape and slight gingery-oxidative character are the complexities urged forth by the grillo grape. Calming sparkling wine, all in order, pleasing and yes also complex. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Frappato Spumante Rosemosse 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Located in Butera within Caltinasetta, started in 2019 on an estate that had been abandoned for 30 years. Of 175 hectares, 18.5 are planted, 15 in production. Almonds, olives also part of production. Charmat method, soft press and after five months it spends two months on lees. Straight frappato, extra brut style and so 4 g/L of RS, tart, very strawberry, big energy groove and patterning on repeat. Tends and trends to the higher level on the Brut scale in terms of residual sugar yet early picked varietal acids keep the pace and faith. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Zahr Bianco Frizzante 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Zahr the flower from Arabic, a sparkling wine using grillo and chardonnay made at low pressure (max. 2.7 bars) and so not exactly by Charmat style, finishing at 12 percent alcohol and low residual sugar. Floral in every way, citrus is lime and the persistence very high for how this is made. Light bubble, easy and enjoyable. Spritz it up! Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut Sessantamesi Metodo Classico 2016, Etna DOP

Reductive style, maturing, now in the middle road in terms of fruit and energy, high acidity yet also sugars running that way. A big and openly gregarious expression for a consumer who likes it sweet, sour, intense and wild.  Last tasted May 202

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Brut Rosato Metodo Classico 2021, Etna DOP 

Quite a dry, rusty and rosy Rosé sparkling, clean and fresh. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted May 2024

The view from Splendid Hotel La Torre, Mondello

Rosato

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Rosato DOC Vignazza 2023

Funky, earthy and cheese rind, herbal and acidulated roasted peppers. Notable onion skin and red apples. Not the most balanced work with nerello mascalese. Drink 2024.  Tasted May 2024

Baglio Di Pianetto Viafrancia Rosé 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Full, rich and substantial Rosé for those who wish for some pulp and flesh. An excess of red berry riches, proper acidity, only a pinch of residual sugar and persistence to satisfy in the end. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

From Rosso vineyards, looking for freshness and very little sugar but also low alcohol. Only steel, three months, bottled in February. Rich of fruit, salty, crunchy and for Rosato also complex. Tons of flavour, strawberry and some leafy savour. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Rosé Di Adele 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

The ripest vintage and so picking early was necessary but Montoni is in the enviable position of elevation and also ventilation where crosswinds from Africa and the Mediterranean meet. In this place and of a warm vintage there is early ripeness but also thankfully phenolic development so that fleshy fruit, sweet and ripe acidity, then finally phenolic maturity all come into place. This bodes well for nerello mascalese as Rosé. There will be no one who does not find this delicious. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Etna Rosato DOC Rosematte 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

There is this style of Rosé made with nerello mascalese that just says light, dry, breezy an easy – this would define that to a “T.” The plus of all the fruit imagined and needed, a touch of sweetness and simplicity from start to finish. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Equally fruity and vegetal, of red berries and peppers, a tartness and also lactic cheese note. Herbal as well and so complexity as Rosato if on the acquired taste side of style. Crunchy and salty, briny to a degree, naturally wild and free. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interest and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Il Nostro Rosato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Colour, which is quite dark is just from the skins, no pressing, fermented in concrete and aged in steel. A Tavel hue, natural and appreciated, without pith, tonics or bitters. Top quality mix of the salty and the sapid, the rich and the stony. Could drink a bucket full because of its 100 percent nero d’Avola flavour, honestly and balance. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Rosato DOC Scalunera 2023

About as light and airy as it gets for Rosato, crunchy and salty, simple, easy and available. Chill, get at it and enjoy the fullness of a day. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

From Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Nice and smoky Etna Bianco from Alta Mora though the fruit is equally adamant about gaining your trust. The smoulder equalized by the pulpy flesh of fresh bites into orchard fruit and a touch of finishing spice. Not the most complex but surely robust for the category.  Last tasted May 2024

Solid and well made Etna Bianco in the ways of respect and tradition, ample, fulsome, substantial and structured for a wine that will drink well three-plus years forward. Citrus mainly, both lemon and lime, cool, not quite minty but surely like fresh summer basil and then a pinch of salt at the finish. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted May 2023

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Reserved, not reductive but neither open nor gregarious. A smoulder of volcanics and wood aging, just an aromatic wisp of flint and notable verdancy. The greens are also driven by the place and Cavaliere gives in just this way. Low, slow and with a time lapse release of controlled power. Really quite remarkable Etna Bianco from this contrada. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2022

The Bianco carricante of Rinazzo are so very different to (especially) Cavaliere, namely because of humidity but also due to closer proximity to the sea. Here is a Superiore example, allowed to be labeled this way in the eastern area (of the village of Milo) and Bennati’s is richer, fuller and also more textural. Not just a case of lees but the aforementioned micro-climate really makes the case. A fine and impressive iteration indeed. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Campione: From three Contrada, carricante 100 percent, no issues with mildew because of an agronomist’s intensity of focus to root it out. Harvest in the first week of October and this comes away rich and full, so very developed and quite fruit explosive. Seven months of lees and stirring is very much in play this way. Fresh and full – just the way so many will find their love for this Etna Bianco. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Calderara vineyards are 40-45 years of age and the harvest happens a week later, in the second week of October. Cement and large casks, 60-40, 10-12 months, brought back together and bottled. Saltier than the Bianco because the vineyard is so full of lava stone, a 100-plus year old eruption with brown basaltic stone. Very focused and precise though more power than 2021. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Isolano 2021

About as curious and unique as it gets for Etna Bianco with this by Donnafugata at impressive elevation from a place called Isolano. The vintage delivers great sunshine and therefore ripeness for a maximum amount of fruit development that because of an extra year in bottle has now come to a place of generosity. More tang than saltiness and very ready to drink. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Balza Delle Poiane, Contrada Zottorinotto 2022

Some reduction from a specific cru and designation, that being Cavanera Balza delle Poiane within the northerly contrada of Zottorinotto. Herbal as well, fresh sprung spring glade of ferns and wild allium, trillium and the local Ginestra. Plenty of substantial fruit and truthfully so much going on. As far as Etna Bianco is concerned this should be considered a big wine, the kind that can be enjoyed by lovers of full-bodied chardonnay. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Only Nerina, San Lorenzo and Feudo were made in 2023 due to a challenge from rain, mildew and less fruit availability. No worries about quality however and Nerina is about as full pulp-fleshy and developed as it has ever been. The acids travel up and down the sides of the palate in the ways of striking Etna Bianco and here Russo finds the road back, each and every time. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

New Bianco for Giuseppe Russo, a selection of 100 percent carricante from three hectares within the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard and contrada. Feudo is not San Lorenzo but it is something remarkable in its own right. More botanical and phenolic but also a level of citrus preserve not noted anywhere but Feudo. Crazy level of implosive citric intensity and taut character. The behaviour is so different to San Lorenzo with flavours that mean business in the most impressive way imaginable. Intensity off the charts, concentration so impressive, energy that builds and builds. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A mix of all four contradas; Muganazzi, Arcurìa, Feudo di Mezzo and Santo Spirito. A mix of Mediterranean scrub and vibrancy, looking for that balance between and finding it. Really fine precision and salinity, length is outstanding for villages level Bianco. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2022

Some wood on Arcurìa that the Classico Etna Bianco does not receive and so this is not as lean, nor is it vertically the same. Citrus mixes with mineral, some austerity and magic that makes this more complex. Crisp however, but fleshy because the concentration and the contrada want this wine to end up this way. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

“A wine of mystery,” says Alberto Graci, “very intriguing for me.” Flinty and scrubby at the same time, energy and vibrancy laying in waiting, a buzz behind the curtain and a soil purposed into the 100 percent carricante that Graci’s team and now also we know the wine will want to explode with flavours a year, or more rightly two from now. So tight but you can feel it, the linear nature looking ahead and time will bring about something social form that mystery. Unquestionably one of L’Etna’s finest ’22s. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted May 2024

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Varietal carricante at 800m fermented in steel, put to barrel and then one year in bottle. So much corporeal flesh on the body of a seriously developed Bianco. Has come into a fine place but my goodness so much texture, citrus and length. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Nicosia Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Gorna Biologico 2023

Quite rich and developed considering the youth and also a minor cheese rind lactic note in what feels like Etna Bianco working through its machinations. A bit awkward to be honest and a little bit of time should see some coming together. Then again the window is tight and so the time is just a bit ahead of now. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

Just have to say wow because Bianco di Sei comes equipped with a level of intensity that was not quite expected from 2022. Not so much a volume or an explosion aromatically speaking but an extreme set of eccentricities that crash aboard the palate. Likely needing some rest and down time to integrate because the level of extract here (including volcanic activity) is simply off the charts. Etna incarnate, pointed and exciting. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

A fine vintage and and even finer Contrada, that being Santo Spirito where carricante (and 10 percent cattarrato) are given every soil, geological and micro-climatic advantage. There is an accumulation of ripeness and stone cool mineral groove from location and acumen that make this move with incremental ability. It will slowly define itself over along period of time that will be fascinating to watch every step of the way. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

Archinieri comes at us with that Pietradolce mix of confidence and generosity because well, vineyards and expertise. A Bianco that must be great because the makers demand top quality from field to table and all the markers here are present, defined and accounted for. Ideal reasoning, seasoning and style. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

La leggenda Patricia Tóth – Planeta

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

New label alert for Planeta’s 100 percent Passopisciaro carricante that celebrates, codifies and contemporizes the Etna eruption of 1614. Incredible intensity and roll in the hay of varietal beauty with striking acidity for what may just be the most brilliant shine ever noted in this emotional wine. Emozione indeed, of a respect for plants and place, of volcanic flows and their craggy rocks, of florals, herbals and all that lives and loves. The extra year in bottle intensifies, stratifies and solidifies both experience and intent. So fucking bon. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

A few years now in bottle and so this 2019 has developed next level style, further character and stage presence. Honeyed and luxe, acids sweetened with a lively if sour edge and then comes that extract that urged the totality from the start. A fine and confident wine with time on its side and a healthy perspective for Etna Bianco as the kind to serve at dinners and tastings all over the world. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Classic Etna Bianco style that has come to be defined as “mountain wines” driven by volcanic soils. Here a rounded example with no sharp points, edges or spikes, fruit quotient run higher than most, riper and developed for immediate gratification. Substantial to every degree, acidity as sweet as it comes and everything so very up front. As good an introduction to the genre, idiom and place as there can be.  Last tasted May 2024

Extreme unction and notable lees usage though keep in mind this is 2022. As young, impressionable and not quite out of the gangly stage as an Etna Bianco can act. Laden with lemon, much of it fresh squeezed, some unresolved phenolics (and aldehydes) and a shield of early structure or elastic membrane that is yet to slide away and reveal the full nature of what will surely be a cracker wine. Would much prefer to taste this a year from now. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Pietrarizzo is both available and confident, not idiosyncratic like Zottorinotto and also richer of fruit. There is an herbal and botanical way about this cru Bianco with splashes of catarratto bringing seasoning to the carricante. A bit spicy and even humid though the fruit is the thing and the volcanics an accent making for even more spice entertained. Such a solid Contrada based Bianco. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021

Of Tornatore’s cru-designated Bianci it is Zottorinotto that acts the most reductive and hard to crack. Great shell of protection and disguise, needing agitation and better still time. That said the 2021 is also fully formed, developed and very much ready to get at – make sure to aerate, decant if you can and allow the pleasures to be released. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

An Etna Bianco on the extreme volcanic side because the aromas and flavours just feel like sucking on a mouthful of basaltic lozenges. Cool, gelid and distinctly mineral on the outside, liquid ethereal and almost mentholated within. Don’t come looking for a burst of fruit, not by citrus, stone nor orchard though there is this green melon note coming late. Nor is this a high acid example, but also not so very botanical. Just bloody volcanic – which speaks to Chiuse Vidalba. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024 

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Scalunera 2023

Varietal carricante from Etna’s northern slope with just about as knowable and definable an Etna Bianco as there can be. This is Scalunera, of perfumes and fruit flavours yellow and green, crunchy and caught at the peak of freshness. What you call a dictionary entry that will be enjoyed by all – to great satisfaction. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

 

Other DOC and IGT Whites

Donnafugata Passiperduti 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only grillo from Sicily’s west-central hinterland surrounded by hills and then the seas. Freshness and phenolics, lemon, grapefruit and botanicals, the things that grow around vineyards and up through the slopes. A crispy and lemon zested grillo like no other, made to order for grilled fish. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

What catarratto will do when a grower and winemaker like Fabio Sireci gets it into his hands – to offer perfumes of white flowers and flavours of green fruits, always fresh and delicate. Persistence and linger, the way it should and wants to be. One of Sicily’s most honest and consistent white wines. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Dei Fornelli 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Feudo Montoni’s will always be one of the most harmonic, restrained and yet phenolic-gripped meets mutli-floral/fruity inzolia of the island. The citrus intensity, a zesting of lemon and lime made liquid to seal the cracks puts this ’23 in a state of grace. Must try varietal wine if not the ideal vintage because of warmth that begot early ripening. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2023, Sicilia DOC 

Only Fabio Sireci’s grillo comes forward this way, with an equal combination of full fruit determination and linear capacity. The mix of Sicilian exoticism and knowable character puts this at a varietal level to bely the island capabilities of the lion’s share. Not surprising considering the pick begins in late August and finishes early in September. Freshness yes but so much more, first from natural matter and then because skipping past the noise to arrive here confirms Sireci’s intelligence to make a grillo understood in the hands of instinctive tasters and consumers. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Masseria Del Feudo Grillo Hermosa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Ideal middle of the road grillo example, white and yellow florals, lemon segmented and juiced, herbal and direct. A good chill on a warm day, some fried calamari and all will be right in the world. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

The second vintage of a 100 percent catarratto from plants that went in back in 2015 on white calcareous soils. Only bush vines and at first made into a blend with grillo. The change was made to do some skin contact and aging in amphora. Really that simple and that is the advantage, no overdoing or distraction in trying to impress. But this does just that, with vibrancy and succulence. Really taut, lemon tight, nearly but not quite piercing. Will change after three years and get honeyed. Reminds of really young Hunter valley sémillon. Top echelon decisions and so bravo Filippo Mazzei and team. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Azisa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only stainless steel, short contact with the skins, made in a very traditional way. Perfectly arranged, straightforward and simple, of lemon citrus and white flowers by grillo that by now presses the idiom into Sicily’s concept of island time. Crunchy and just ever so slightly pith bitter, lemon again and again, unrelenting in style and quick by design. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2023, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Ripeness, juicy forthright quality and all in interface with what feels like every pore for both aromas and with the palate. The Terebinto, a.k.a Cyprus Turpentine never takes a break nor moves absently around. There is purpose in every aroma and flavour, not as an attack, but as a dance. This grillo gets better and better every year. Shiny happy leaves and people. Never out of time for this grillo. “Put it in the ground. where the flowers grow, gold and silver shine.” Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Bianco Alastro 2023, Menfi DOC

Varietal sauvignon blanc and not just any but from a southern Sicilian shore where the sea winds and scrublands are simply different to the Mediterranean side. All that matters conjoins for a whole new way to see the grape. Crispy and crunchy, salinity running amok and oysters or crunchy fried fishes (hopefully) waiting on the table. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

With the legend, Alessio Planeta

Planeta Allemanda 2023, Sicilia Noto DOC

It’s a moscato bianco but not the kind you think, in fact it’s not only bubbles that are missing from Planeta’s Noto example. Extract and tannin rise above sweetness and fruit though there is plenty of ripeness noted in the latter. Ripe vintage, perhaps less quantity, but quality fruit makes for a balanced moscato. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Fiano Cometa 2022, Sicilia Menfi DOC

The sole varietal fiano at Anteprima Siciliane 2024 and of course it is Cometa by Planeta which stands the test of island time. Alas and always the subtle smoulder, struck flint but a moment in time and a crunchy quality to supersede the herbs and the lime. Full vintage, well-developed for a fiano that will ready itself a year ahead of its average time. Cometa cometh with palates standing by the ready. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus 2021, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Always the richest example of chardonnay with most honeyed flavours, spice cupboard and savoury eccentricities. The selection considers only the best, they being the ripest bunches with that uncanny ability to collect as mature, almost evolved feeling from its fruit to be converted into a magical example of Menfi. So much sunshine, luxe and refulgence, almost so bright you gotta wear shades sort of chardonnay. A top vintage because acidity, extract and tannin all layer in heaps. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Principe Di Corleone Ridente Angelica 2023, Sicilia DOC

Cool, ethereal, minty, salt-licked and kissed, stoic and proud. Herbal and botanical, of bay laurel and thyme, lemon preserve and the morning juice. Some may find the tonic a bit gin-washed but who should not love these flavours and the style all the same? Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Francesco and Enrica Spadafora

Spadafora Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

From vineyards Between 200-400m, a place of sandy soils where freshness is the order for catarratto and yet there is some tropical fleshiness about the ’23 by Spadafora. Would not exactly say salty but more so a split between salinity and sapidity because there are some phenolic moments in this wine. Harmonious and just complex enough to rise above the norm. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Don Pietro Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Named after Francesco Spadafora’s father (and Enrica’s grandfather) who started the winery in 1993. A bit higher in acidity than the straight catarratto because of the inclusion of grillo and so a higher saltiness, succulence and energy. This is expressive of attitude in such a good way. Will gain interest after a couple of years. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Grillo Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

For the grillo the plants are kept to a relative minimum vigour but cutting away the “moustache and the tail” while keeping the interno. Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and just a few months on lees. Remarkably if subtly flinty, smouldering and textural, simply from land and grape, coming together for a really unique effect. It’s truly Spadafora, their place and how they allow this quality to speak. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Siriki Orange 2017, Terre Siciliane IGP

Grillo on skins for 30 days, now nearly seven years of age yet freshness somehow persists. Surely owing to clean lees and how they lay to present themselves as they continue to ready their host. Enrica Spadafora explains how she and her father were wanting to have a different style of orange and also this is grillo, not your every day average variety for the style. Was structured and has now settled, though there are some tannic moments drying the palate in the end. Impressive all in all, seemingly ambitious, but the result is there. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Sofien 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Half and half grillo and chardonnay, as with all the wines they are called “Totò Navarra,” first and last name of the owner and you can’t just use Navarra because well, Spain. Totò, as in Salvatore. Fruit, flowers, simple, sunshine and some chardonnay backbone, but just clean and fresh which is just what is needed. Fine and easy yet acidity and persistence are essential and the finish more sapid than salty. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Etna Rosso DOC

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Solo nerello mascalese, made with the grapes from all three Contradas, 10 months in steel, followed by six months in bottle. Dictionary entry though it’s just the first vintage of this specific Rosso without Cappuccio. These are nerello plants grafted onto the old cappuccio and to be honest there is more purity and focus this way. Spicier, in a way and more energy. Will take a few vintages to find its solo artist stride. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Only nerello mascalese from 35 year-old vines, big barrel for 14 months. Even though Feudo di Mezzo is the largest Etna Nord contrada there is such consistency and a thread of wine effect that runs through the 20-plus producers. Cottanerà heeds and abides by the vineyard to produce a balanced FdM worthy of the name. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Plants are 85 years of age on four hectares but this wine is a selection from three tonnes of grapes to make only 1,800-2,000 bottles. Riserva, so it remained in cask for two years plus two more in bottle. Depth, breadth, spices and richness, the most full bodied and textural Rosso, tannins sweet and long-chained with time still needed to resolve all that is here. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

A very warm and dry vintage making for a taut, chalky and savoury nerello mascalese (with 10 percent cappuccino). This next ‘a Rina takes off where 2021 left off and only Feudo is as consistent an Etna Rosso as this. Chalky red cherry, a leathery aspect and drying tannins that speak about 2022 in both toasty and positive ways. Crisp ’22, of bay and liquorice, salty volcanics and good length, though not in the league of Feudo and San Lorenzo. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

The juiciest of all the ‘22s for Giuseppe Russo and if also the least structured there can and should be no complaints. Reeking of and oozing nerello mascalese flavours so cherry red, fresh, clean and particular. There are no others like this – the level of energy without unnecessary heated intensity is remarkable. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

The gifts of San Lorenzo are of a slow release ilk the other cru and vineyards of Girolamo Russo are not, but this from 2022 is so full of riches it brings early joy. A great pleasure to have a glass even now with gregarious perfume and readied flavours, of red berries, liquid chalky to candied palate swaths and immediacy from this bottle of wine. San Lorenzo shows off the most glyercol and silken texture – it’s almost candied but of course it’s not. Spicy on the back side, sneakily structured and all the while with a glass we’re feeling fine. Can only improve and integrate with a couple of years time. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

The allure of Feudo is real, the consistency of its fuxed expression divine and the work in Giuseppe Russo’s world a conduit to access the sublime. Sure there is a quiet restraint at this early stage of 2022’s tenure but how could we miss the high levels of fruit and structure combining for purpose and potential? A big and full Feudo from the variable vintage, chewy and layered, stratified volcanics making sure that when maturity comes there will always be mineral. What a Feudo indeed. Peak of Feudo freshness out of the embers and smoulder of a warm season. The secret is Etna and this section of the vineyard. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

From the highest section in the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard, bush vines, very old. Delivers ultra light and conversely powerful di Mezzo freshness, but from this elevation at a much higher rate and with an extension of vibrancy plus energy. More verticality and sweetness of nerello fruit like almost no other. Resides in a state of grace upon the palate and though it hovers just a millimetre above, there still feels like the fruit, acidity and finest tannin are collectively making full contact. Remarkable. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2021

Laying down expectation can be a dangerous thing, but can’t be helped some times. Knowing Giuseppe Russo and the Piano delle Colombe block of the San Lorenzo vineyard will induce and send thoughts down such a path from a 2021 that not only matches but exceeds what was thought to be possible. Aromatically positive signs and the deliverance of a fleet of nearly perfected ripenesses come to such a consummated fruition are come upon by way of unconscious results. Optimal not optimum, because there is no such thing, but only the attainable which in this case is superlative balance. Harmonies of all parts, out of field to bottle, through every rise, depression and plateau, from start to finish and everything in between. The critical moments are found, like cooking a perfect steak, pushing your finger into its soft middle fleshy belly and feeling the exact spring back desired. A greta or pearl of a nerello mascalese, a highway tune, “so sweet, so fine, so nice, all mine. “I prefer ’21,” admits Russo. Smart man. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted May 2024

Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive , so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

The home vineyard, great vintage and that should not be questioned because frankly it simply can’t be denied. If nothing else the intensity of purpose comes through from the start. More depth and crunch, further concentration and breadth, still austere and working through its tasks, machinations and intentions. Big wine from 2021. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

Longer maceration because these are stems that ripen better than anywhere else and so Alberto Graci tastes and decides how long to go. Usually 60 days and 2019 was right around that number. You can feel them, mostly though not 100 percent ripe and yet that savoury-verdant note works so well to create a spice mix and seasoning that extends the breadth of the fruit. Do not come here for heavy concentration or weight because there is restraint but also expect some austerity. Really needs time and will eventually settle into it’s technicolor skin. A compact wine that will deliver a slow release of energy. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted May 2024

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Pistus 2022

From L’Etna’s northern side at Contrada Muganazzi, only stainless aging, no wood and thank you very much. I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna have been working with this contrada since the beginning (2007) though Pistus the label dates to 2012. Some volatility though just a hint and not too distracting, Amaro herbal and very complex. Big wine though fresh, crispy and crunchy, with good freshness. Serious lift to this Etna Rosso. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

Spicy and floral, aromatically crisp and taut, wood a factor with plenty of seasoning. A bit sappy and edging into tang with flavours quite sharp and also dense but time will settle the score for all parts involved. A big and inky version of Nero di Sei and one to really sink your teeth into. Wait two years to do so. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito

Evolving nicely, now nearly ready to go, fruit still fresh enough and structure beginning to subside. A full bodied Etna Rosso from Santo Spirito in delivery of what the contrada and the vintage held in hand. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

A vintage out of which the pre-phylloxera was produced from the contrada so just imagine the possibilities as they come from this all in for the vintage nerello mascalese. Feels like an extended maceration because the glycerol and unctuous textural pool are both at the crest of Etna Rosso heights. Oranges and cherries but more than anything old vines spirit and what just happened from out of these volcanic sands carried through to century and a half vines is something wholly and unequivocally other. Hints at balsamic reduction but the tannins and also acids are so fresh and so years is what it will take to take this anywhere new. The finest chalkiness imitates the soil and puts this in a league with some of Italy’s most important red wines. Up to you too decide which they are or don’t bother at all. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted May 2023

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2020

The most developed for Rampante with a spicy 2020 aromatic entry, concentrated and refined while residing on the darker red fruit side of the line. Lift, balsamico gariga, bay laurel, crunchy and herbal. So very complex and as far as Etna nerello mascalese goes there is more savoury depth from this by Pietradolce. Full-bodied in all these regards, breadth and volume guaranteed. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

The 2020 nerello mascalese from Contrada Santo Spirito is a meaty and gamy bruiser, sanguine and yet lifted with some fine volatility to nose. The right amount because the aromatic volume, palate depth and tannic freight are all equal partners working towards a common goal. That would be a full-bodied Etna Rosso with the stuffing and planning to age very well. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

A unicorn Etna Rosso and here from 2019 there has been some development though the wine is still ways away from full integration. Talking formidable structure, inclusive of tannins of a tight and variegated grain, running crosswise and painless because they usher fruit and urge acidity to always be a part of the fray. A total weave of Rosso sentiment, bringing emotion and pleasure without fail, to exult a vineyard as special as any in the world. One only need to stand over it to understand its power, insistence on restraint and the keys to unlock potential. Will turn heads and remain in light for a good long time. “Facts are nothing on the face of things. “Still waiting, still waiting, still waiting, still waiting.” Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Not a contrada specific Etna Rosso but more than 70 percent comes from Feudo di Mezzo in Passopiciaro. As juicy and glycol notable Rosso as there has ever been and silken would best describe the quality felt aboard the more than pleased and nurtured palate. Another wine that improves each vintage under the guidance of Patricia Tòth, in part because her favourite dogs hang around that winery next to the vineyard. Also because her experience and abilities have come to a most profound place. Love the spice masala on the finish. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted  May 2024

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the single vineyard in Passopisciaro, site of some of the oldest lava flows on Etna, the 1614 volcanic spill. Another high glycerol event as nerello mascalese because this is what this vineyard must effect upon fruit and 2020 abides. Of course it does but also delivers the kind of Rosso that does not beg for years of waiting. The tannins are sneaky but not austere, the acidity so sweet you would like to spoil it as dessert. More precise than the Etna Rosso (mainly from Feudo) but clearly nella famiglia.  Last tasted May 2024

Brightest and highest of scintillant nerello mascalese at impressive elevation on soils developed from the mountain’s 1614 eruption, in other words ancient but still young by world standards. Each and every lava flow resulting in volcanic soils is different on Etna and this 406 year-old tract is unequivocally responsible for Planeta’s 2020 style. Sure the winemaker might have a say but her job is to let the vineyard speak which she does as well as any artista/professionalista on the mountain. Buon lavoro PT. Stupendo. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted May 2023

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario

High-toned, spirited and transparent nerello mascalese from Tasca’s L’Etna Tascante out of Contrada Pianodario. Red berry shine, acids excited and fruit a willing participant. Tarragon and Basil herbal, so very basaltic stony and truly a wine of place. Crunchy and ever so slightly resinous with balsamico mixing into the sweetness of fruit and acidity. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Big French tonneaux, second passage and older for eight months. No recipe but that is this vintage, not as powerful as 2022 and Sofia sees it like 2016, but perhaps a different kind of balance, though not as ideal as 2016. The restrained power of the volcano runs throughout and you really feel it. Remarkable Etna Rosso in balance and of a grace that speaks to all there can be. What these wines are want to express and how they carry themselves, non-plussed, confident and free. The ripeness factor at the top of what is normal and beautiful without excess or greed. Sweetness of acidity and form-fitting structure but neither curves nor angles are exaggerated, nor drawn with any concentric circles or sharp lines. The wine flows and reaches the limits of what is right and proper. Just that much and no more. And we say thank you. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

The most understandable and straightforward Etna Rosso there could be, mature and layered, of riches and earth, fruit and soil all in the mix. A volcanic paint by numbers canvas of realism and beauty, easily accessible and generous to a perfectly reasonable degree. Entry point for the DOC and once in, never to look back. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Some very ripe fruit here from Tonatore’s Pietrarizzo Rosso in the ways of late picking and good solid pressing. Makes for a chewy nerello mascalese that will ready itself for consumption quite a bit earlier than quite a bunch of its peers. Plenty of flavour and attraction for a wine that should be consumed over the next three years.  Last tasted May 2024

North slope of Etna cru of nerello mascalese put to 50hl foudres, blended and then settled in concrete ahead of bottling. Consistently one of the finer Rosso values in Contrada-specific Etna and here the fruit ripeness and maturity is as fulsome as it ever gets. Makes for a drink really early proposition and provided that advice is followed there will be perfume, heady flavours and good acidity in your glass. A wine to lead off high-end tastings and dinners here, there and everywhere. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted November 2023

Other DOC and IGT Reds

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Candied floral aromas, of pansies and nasturtium namely with a lift so very suggestive. There is a note of Brettanomyces yet at a subtle level and while the effect is slight the palate trails into a momentary lapse of brittle tannin. Still the beauty and the natural smile of this frappato are intoxicating and we simply will not turn away. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Castellucci Miano Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not the most openly fragrant frappato with red berries the most notable entry but no real overt sense of florals. Sweetly herbal, cherry drop and then sweet basil before the palate feels the full true nature of the wine. Cool and gelid with a mint to bay layer herbal feel for a wine well made if pressed just a smidgen past prime. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Frappato Bell’Assai 2022, Vittoria DOC

Straight ahead Vittoria frappato, floral and striking, citrus up front part green and part red, like cranberry and pomegranate with a chiffonade of tarragon. Some chewy quality here, of liquorice and fruit leather, flavour profile high and acidity cool, tart and fine. Gets better with each subsequent sniff and sip. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Floramundi 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

Lifted, high spirit and tone, herbal, juicy and citrusy for the frappato-nero d’Avola Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend. On the light and transparent side of such an appellative joint which suggests more frappato and also choice of style. Light and linear, suggestively tannic and a great food wine for that meat to fish overlapping. Liquid chalky and lengthy. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Terre Di Elio 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A very good vintage for the variety though her recent tasting from tank causes Melissa Muller to say that ‘23 “will be even more vertical.” That said the ’22 is not your average, every day nerello mascalese, not by any stretch of the Sicilian imagination. Fully formed, attractive and finding no obstacle to hinder leaving its impression. Balanced throughout, without equivocation, fruit followed by acidity, stepping back to fruit before than fast forwarding two steps to really fine tannins. Lightens as it moves and finishes pretty much where it started. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Perricone Core 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A perricone from Fabio Sireci of as much substantial fruit up front as the winemaker has ever put together. Aromatic volume gives way to palate and mouthfeel where depth and breadth really take centre stage. Big in terms of fruit presence though not the most structured ever. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Lagnusa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Lagnusa may be hard to say but it is never hard to drink and enjoy to fullest extent of Sicilian nero d’Avola law. Or joy because its mix of local savoir faire, freshness and understated structure make it as ideal a five to seven year wine as any on the island. One of those crunchy exterior, chewy interior neros that remain constant from start to finish. Grace, charm and honesty incarnate. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted May 2024

Zisola definitely suits Filippo Mazzei

Mazzei Zisola 2022, Noto Rosso DOC

Zisola is a project for Filippo Mazzei that began with a 700 km drive around Sicily accompanied by Diego and Alessio Planeta. Noto was chosen because of the biodiversity of the flora, to Filippo not unlike Tuscany. He also fell in love with the old Baroque town and could see a comparison between nero d’avola and sangiovese. “The decision was made based on a feeling.” The 2022 is so much fresher than the nero of 15 years ago, not to mention the balance accrued by way of alberello trained vines. Open up the dictionary and here it is. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

Just a 5,000 bottle production, not released until it sees an extra year in bottle. “Planted from the very the beginning,” because explains Fiippo Mazzei, “syrah was fashionable at the time, but then the Bordeaux varieties went in.” A very structured wine, also showing the wood more than the nero but concentration is so full and the wine just as grippy that it needs the fortification. A solid construct that will unfold after five to 10 years of time. Befitting its name. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Doppiozeta 2021, Noto DOC

Yes another fine Doppiozeta nero d’avola from the Mazzei family and their Sicilian estate. Crispy exterior, chewy interior, spice and herbs as accents, salt and pepper seasoning, chalky tannic, reasoned and knowably fine. Consistently well raised, made and delivered, signed and sealed as a really good wine. The freshness is always there and the acidity so ideally suited to grape and style. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Effe Emme 2021, Sicilia DOC

Varietal petit verdot planted in 2004, only 1.5 hectares, just about at the very beginning of Zisola. Incredibly chalky to say that it really speaks for the calcaire but time has come to effect changed so that the vines have come into balance. As petit verdot Effe Emme is not as dark and concentrated as it once was. Really showing its colours, what it is, a child of limestone soils. “Effe Emme,” F.M., long-play radio, well-spoken, one who tells things as they are, Filippo Mazzei. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Frappato 2023, Vittoria DOC

About as fruity and openly floral as frappato will be to say that the style continues to evolve in the most positive way. Without distraction and encumbrance, set to aim, be received and please, without biting or striking back. There is some lift in Planeta’s 2023, in part because youth is a rebellious time to be frappato, but we know this too shall pass and the wine will settle without struggle. The fruit will remain and the song continue to play the same. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Nocera 2023, Sicilia DOC

One of the very few pleasantly made varietal nocera on the island and the only one presented here at the ’24 Anteprima. Surely found to exist along similar lines to nero d’Avola, with a touch more rusticity, also chewy liquorice and leathery fruit character. The 2023 is a good if not high acid nor rather tannic vintage, assembled and delivered for earlier drinking than some. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2021, Noto DOC

Such a fine iteration of nero d’avola as Santa Cecilia, a 2021 more mature and open than before but is that not what it should be? Fruit so naturally curated, sweet and generous to speak of a great potential and long future. Fine acidity as well while also necessary and yet as the wine sits on the palate those credible and knowable quality of nero tannins remind of Cecilia’s past. Anyway this is both handsome and beautiful, vulnerable and strong. Fluid and confident, loving and powerful, with a spoonful of Noto nourishment to last a very good long time. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus Cabernet Franc 2018, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Now in release mode at near six years past vintage and believe when you hear that six more are needed to fully develop the structural intensity so that all parts get to working as one. For now feel the positivity of varietal fruit so obvious and layered, concentrated and confident, but in truth there is a submission to the tannins. They are grainy and chalky, not austere, but yes aggressive. Be patient – this Didacus is a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

The freshest of Spadafora’s nero d’Avola where acidity runs high, tannins lower and lighter wines are produced (in an area considered best for syrah). Fresh yes but there is a mild amount of Brettanomyces here, nothing striking but present. Natural wine lovers may just find this to their liking. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Don Pietro 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

A blend of nero d’Avola, merlot and cabernet sauvignon (40,30,30), aged in only concrete and steel for freshness first. Chalkiness arrives second with thanks surely to soil and here some Brett but also volatility that is a bit distracting. Again it’s just a fractional amount but it is there, however less so than the solo nero d’avola. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP

Fermented in concrete and aged in steel, the freshest syrah that can be made to drink quickly, easily and without hesitation. Cleaner and fresher than the entry nero d’Avola with meatiness and mild peppery grip, though no real density to speak of. Great classic example for all red wine needs. You can chill this one. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah Sole Dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGP

Sees one year in barriques and the rest in tank, bottled in July of 2022. Lengthy aging but just a short wood stay so don’t come expecting heavy vanilla, lavender or other French barrel notes. Come instead for the florals, spices, spiciness, liquid pepper, but no smoke. Chalky, tannic and all soil-related, created and driven. Can last for another 10 years. Clean and varietally obvious though not the iodine-meaty syrah kind. Perfume and texture are everything. Balsamico and mint at the finish. ”La terra,” shrugs Francesco Spadafora. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Merlot Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

First vintage though merlot has been growing for many years and so after many trials it has been decided to make a solo effort. Proper, merlot-ness straight away, fruity and verdant. Clean and the land gives the life, breathes of fresh air and soil earthiness that runs complex if dry through the wine. Fine merlot, chic, suave and rewarding. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Nero d’Avola Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and 50 percent goes to barrel before going back to tank. Pretty much seven-plus years in total. Maturing and while there are some drying oxidative notes in dried fruit and herbs there is also freshness, acidity and energy. True nero d’Avola locution imagined as Riserva comparable with many other Italian wines, while harmony and style really tell the story. Very, very well made wine with great further potential for aging. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted May 2024

The team at Totò Navarra

Tenute Navarra Disiato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Dark sandy soils and also light clay to effect frappato more towards the lighter side. Raised only in stainless steel, maintaining ultra freshness, clarity and my goodness this is so drinkable. Top acidity with simple tannin, far from grippy though it’s there, “to wash the mouth.” Crunchy and easy. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Maribu 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

The classic mix of nero d’avola and frappato, here in 2022 the blend is 50-50 when sometimes it can be 70-30 or 60-40. A vintage where the two work seamlessly together and frappato carries more meaning than it often will. All sorts of berries, one after another, an apothem of a Cerasuola from which drinkability meets structure pretty much halfway there. A linear blend that travels from its centre to the midpoint of one of its sides. Really fine, of top quality freshness and clarity. Tonnino Guzzo is a winemaker who obviously keeps an immaculate cellar and makes the cleanest wines. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Battichié 2021, Sicilia DOC

Battichié, a lullaby that Totò’s mother Maria used to sing to him when he was a child. One year in French barriques, one in steel and then followed by another in bottle. Truth is the grape and soils do show through, even while this remains so youthful, once again proving a winemaker’s acumen and ability. No over use of wood, still clear and fresh with more pieces to the varietal puzzle already there yet still to develop. Ten year nero d’avola for sure. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted May 2024

Good to go!

godello

The view from Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

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