Report and reviews from the 2025 Chianti Classico Collection

At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Warm days have awoken the vines in Tuscany, the defiant 2025 Ontario winter has been reluctant to end, Spring has not sprung and 45 days have past since the 32nd edition of the Chianti Classico Collection came to another decisive and triumphant conclusion. Sustainability was the central theme in 2025 with talk of a new commitment by producers in their move towards a “sustainable future and respect for the region.” As always sangiovese remained the star for two-days of intensive tasting and continuing education studies with never enough thanks afforded to the organization of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and execution of the Tuscan sommeliers. The most recent vintages showed off their prowess to a macroscale contingent of fully attentive international journalists seated at the Stazione Leopolda tasting tables for two immersive days. Between 2016 and 2024 recurrent hyperbole has been expressed on these Godello pages about the consistent forward strides made by Chianti Classico producers and still their passion and ethic persists. Chianti Classico wines have never acceded the level they are at right now, reputation is at an all-time high and the peak is far from reached. Should you either be blind to the obvious or just beginning to realize the importance of the Gallo Nero, fear not because the best is yet to come.

Godello tasting at The Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Hai le fette di salame sugli occhi

A short note from Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico President Giovanni Manetti on US tarrfis: “We are particularly concerned about the repercussions that the 20% tariff imposed on imports could have on the export of our wines, and we must have faith that the choice made by the Trump Administration will be addressed as soon as possible by our Italian and European leaders. Us producers will now have to work together to shoulder the heavy economic burden that will result from the imposition of these tariffs on the U.S. market. We will continue on, though, strong in our conviction that the American consumers who have always loved and enjoyed Chianti Classico will remain loyal to our quality wines, the Black Rooster, and to our unique region that’s present in each of our bottles.”

Chianti Classico Collection 2025

What to expect from 2024 Chianti Classico?

Near the end of 2024 Godello speculated on the quality of the 2024 vintage, but also how it may resemble some blasts from the past. “The summer of ’24 was typically hot and dry but all that changed after September 7th because in some parts of the region nearly 400 ml of rain fell over the following seven weeks. Unprecedented amounts of water, well at least if you look back at the previous 30 years. August of 1995 saw rain like that and previous to that there was plenty of precipitation and cool harvest temperatures in 1991 and 1993. Fast forward again to 2024 and the the constant deluge of mid-September through to late October ends up becoming the cruelest stretch. Days on end when tractors are unable to enter the vineyards, harvest crews repeatedly pause on stand by because picking wet grapes is a cardinal sin and prayers are made for two straight days of sunshine to happen anytime and anywhere. From Greve to Castellina, San Donato in Poggio to Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli to Gaiole, San Casciano to Radda, in Montefioralle, Panzano and Lamole. Bunches are dropped because tight sangiovese clusters encourage the development of mold from within and the waiting game is excruciating for many. Patience is the greatest virtue and yet sugars are developing slowly, like the old days, piano-piano, as they like to say. In the end a classic vintage in the ways of days of old is declared, with phenolic ripeness achieved because of the longest hang-time since 1993, the same year Juventus’ Roberto Baggio scores five goals in seven international matches for Italy. Drinkable sangiovese, elegant, ripe, low alcohol and a good number blessed with sneaky structure. Producers are pleased with the freshness and ethereal beauty. The tank samples are bloody delicious. Pure sangiovese. Retro Chianti Classico.”

“First and foremost on so many producers minds are the alcohol levels topping out at 13.5 percent. If you see 14.0 abv on a bottle in 2026 or beyond you can bet the actual number is just above that 13.5 Mason-Dixon line and in some cases 13.5 could in actuality be just a shade above 13.0. Lighter wines as a general rule, but age-worthy because of phenolic ripeness, at least in cases where producers waited, waited some more and picked as late as possible. Expect to see straight through the transparent hues of Chianti Classico sangiovese for 2024, to sense, taste and feel the brightest and potentially sweetest acidities, then finally the silkiest if also most elastic tannins. The 2024 acids will be the catalyst for aging these sangiovese. Anyone under the age of 50 will have likely never experienced a Chianti Classico vintage like 2024 and potentially never will again.”

With Michaela Morris at Stazione Leopolda, Chianti Classico Collection 2025

A reminder that any Chianti Classico anteprime report on the Florence Collection must make clear that it is always a multi-vintage presentation. Also incumbent on a journalist is to express the importance of understanding the Annata in terms of what kinds of wines will come from a same vintage Riserva and Gran Selezione. The three appellative wines are intrinsically connected and so the Annata will foreshadow the future. There are producers who choose to present their just bottled Annata each February, if only because they qualify for what can be released under Consorzio rules, which in this case means the 2023s and this year unfinished tank samples account for 35 percent of that season’s total. The bulk (meaning nearly three out of every four) Annata made available to taste are from 2022, 2021 and 2020. The assessment of the campione is more of a trial and error exercise because hit or miss raw samples are so often challenging to get a read on. For the 2025 Collection it is safe to say that the 2022 Annata are to be considered as the current vintage. They are a powerful lot and though lower in quantity, they arrive in stark contrast to 2021s of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers choose to keep their wines behind, to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle.

The 2025 Collection also marked the 50th Anniversary of the Chianti Classico DOP Olive Oil Consorzio and included a record number of Black Rooster exhibitors. There were 2018 wineries presenting 790 labels to the press, industry professionals and general public. In addition to the Collection presentation in Firenze, this most recent trip also included visits made with producers within the territory. As a follow-up, a second report will publish next week to include the wines tasted at those estates. There were 544 wines available at the sommelier-assisted tables and the following are 185 reviews covering all 11 UGAs for the three appellative levels of Chianti Classico DOCG tasted over two consecutive days in the Stazione Leopolda at the February 2025 Chianti Classico Collection.

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Juicy as they come and while a sample it is simply too early to fully assess the full extent known of this very forthright Rubiolo 2023. A pure sangiovese of high fruit content red and juicy, open and generous, nearly ready to express itself. Another six months and this could not only be bottled but rearing to please. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Really full and substantial sangiovese if like many 2023 barrel samples there is a tightness about its aromatics. Not close fisted like other vintages but also not completely open or generous either. Tannins are a bit grippy and their muscular pipes must come down from the mountain and relax before any sort of joy can be found. And it will. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021, Nessuna Unità

LeVigne, Riserva from the Istine vines in Radda plus Gaiole to create Angela Fronti’s full scale selection. LeVigne and the reason why these vineyards all need to be the best they can be, to justify a Riserva label, especially now that each of the three are giving fruit to produce Gran Selezione. No severe loss for Riserva although it may take a few years for allocations to truly be figured out so that this wine will continue to stay at peak. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellina

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Juicy, soft, amenable, drinkable to each and every degree. That is the point and the exclamation. Just the faintest hint of grainy texture and vanillin by wood that will integrate with six more months in bottle. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, Castellina

Big bones and a wave of exotic perfume defining the vintage and for Castellina. I mean it’s Gran Selezione and so 2022 is really young. Feels like the wine is still refining while it stiff arms your palate to ward off the tackle and so surely too early to be tasting. Speaks to the idea of a window opening before a some other number UGA ‘22s but the time is far from nigh. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2023, Castellina

Warm and inviting aromatic condition with this high elevation part of Castellina’s eastern ridge effecting a combination of sweet volatility and cool factor. A curious and potentially profound juxtaposition provided time chooses to sooth the grip and force that exists in the earliest stages of this wine. Just sangiovese and meaningful, raw and powerful, boozy to a degree but know that this place makes this kind of Chianti Classico. Return two years from now for the opening salvo. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

Big and bountiful, rich and powerful while always just restrained enough to feel the natural beauty in the face of fruit meeting alcohol brawn. The place determines the result and 2022 could do nothing but make a big Buondonno as Riserva. A wow factor mélange of fruit and fine-grained tannin looking for the catalyst of acidity to control this manifest destiny. Two years rest will secure the result. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The beautiful family of Marta Buondonno

Capraia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Wood off the top with a blush of make-up in vanilla, lavender and almond paste. Coats the palate with a salve and while the hope could be for a soft and creamy sangiovese – the wine does not come to that. Drying and chalky but in a liquid grainy way. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2021, Castellina

Spices all over the nose, baking and those that define the stews and braises of Toscana. A truly woody Gran Selezione, grabbing our attention, letting us know it’s there for the taking. Tannins do dry out at the finish but do not wait because the fruit will not improve or get any younger. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A most pure and surely glycerol sangiovese with (five percent) canaiolo as soft and creamy as they come from Castellina, or anywhere in the territory. Generous and amenable, a veritable mouthful of fruit and wood softened and melted into the fabric of the wine. Very modern, plush and easy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2019, Castellina

Paronza 2019 has bided time and allowed itself to mature into an adult version of Gran Selezione. Now mature and settled, caramelizing into secondary character and showing like a sangiovese having entered its postmodern age. Chewy, of liquorice and dried persimmon, its acidity expressed in the reduced Balsamico way. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Unique example with aromatics unlike any other but for now they are mostly caused by the stay in wood. Vanilla yes but also what feels like the effects of American oak. Coconut like Rioja mixed with Napa Valley but sangiovese is rendered “different” because, well sangiovese. Needs two years to come fully together and will outlive many, darkening and thickening as it matures. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted October 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A grand mix of aromas, in part from the surround of forest and the other a vineyard exposition at elevation and open to the elements. A lightning strike of sangiovese as bright and intense as any you will find in the whole of the territory but that is the crux of this Castellina situation. Intensity thy name is Castagnoli. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Well made, drink early sangiovese with acidity in tow behind fruit though just sapid enough with thanks to (five percent) mitigating canaiolo. A thoughtful and well judged Annata with 2023 bones and flesh for open season Chianti Classico hunting. Get at Castellare now because it offers more than most without the necessary requiem for aging. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Castellina

Solid construct in Riserva form from Castellare, rich and fulsome, dark fruited, red-faced and fine. Elegant sangiovese, so well thought about and crafted, spicy, spiced and open. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

High tonality, brightness and also lightness of red, red fruit though this sample of the 2021 Castellina Gran Selezione houses some Brettanomyces. Sweet fruit and acidity though tannins are somewhat hard as a result. Hoping for some relief after time brings all the elements together. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Fine liquid elixir of sangiovese without adornment or distraction in this pure example of Castellina Chianti Classico. Simple and so bloody effective for what the Annata needs to express and how they should attract a willing audience. Drink without any care in the world. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

The story of a family – this to explain the reasons behind a Chianti Classico Annata of accumulation, of the years and a season. Warm and peach fuzzy, red cherry stylish with a hint of citrus pit bitters and acidity as cracker sharp as ever. A touch lactic and therefore tang is the operative word. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

Taut and still somewhat reductive Gran Selezione from Castellina, not yet ready to calm, settle and release. A red fruit profile quite intense and acidity doing much the same. Needs to chill, relax and integrate, melt in its upfront barrel and come away with a new attitude, in new light. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Still working through its motions and machinations, this for a sangiovese from Castellina that fits the vintage profile, of fruit darker than almost any since 2016. Quite tannic, still a bit grainy and the impressive stature by structure is in charge. Big for Pomona, likely higher in alcohol than many, not a throwback by any stretch and drying at the finish. Give this time, plenty of precious time and look to better days ahead . Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Gallule 2021, Castellina

Riserva may be on its own but it already reveals much about itself. The separate entity that is Gran Selezione (from Castellina, not Panzano) does the opposite with wood so very much upfront and a tannic touch weighing down as freight below. As full a wine as Gagliole will make, however the barrel holds all the current cards. Comes away creamy and there needs to be some integration to get where it wants to go. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

There has never been a Lornano Chianti Classico with more upfront dark fruit and manageable structure as this out of the 2022 vintage. Nothing previous has acted so open and generous as this Annata, nor have we not had to wait for so short a time for grip and tannin to subside. Perhaps they were never fully there? Well no, the wine shows the stuffing of a warm and fulfilling year but there are few from Castellina that act this way. What sorcery is this pray tell? So curious and frankly also delicious. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La squadra – Casale Dello Sparviero

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Sangiovese with five percent colorino and canaiolo first produced in 2014 now with the image of Siena’s skyline on the label. Soils are clay with some limestone and for Giacomo “the 2022 is better in the mouth.” Aged in a mix of Tuscan, Slovenian and French oak, “essential for aromatic complexity.” Now just in bottle for a bit more than a month, expressive of fruit in a broad way and the tannins are present in two parts, of softness and then in fine grains. Nardi picks on skin and alcohol – not on the pips. He insists they don’t necessarily have to be crunchy and brown. Surely a reaction to climate change and because he wants to make a wine of drinkability. Makes sense in Castellina and yes, there is more than ample ripeness in his 2022. Well done, Giacomo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2021, Castellina

The first vintage was 2016, the following vintage was so hot and dry but Nardi did the yeoman work and made a truly drinkable wine. The 2021 is blessed of the good if basic red fruit vintage, here with more polish and refinement as compared to the Annata. You can feel the passion and the piety in this work. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: A 2020 and still not bottled which can only be for two reasons. Either the wine has been a serious challenge to clean up or the tannic structure is so formidable as to be the requiem for further time. In any case there is some noted volatility but no major faults or issues with sweet fruit, equal acidity and yes the backbone of the wine is sangiovese serious. Upright, vertical and the tannic profile demanding. Needs more time. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness. Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG l’Aura 2023, Castellina

Herbal entry, a pesto of sweet greens swirled into tomato and tart fruits for another unique 2023 when many others feel cut from a similar cloth. In any case the unction runs deep and the flavours too, the acidity keeps pace and the structure is solid, if not the kind that measures quite the same. Adds up to a promising mid-term Annata. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Unsurprising as a 2023 already bottled and ready for the market. Prèt a porter, fruit set up to talk the Maciè talk without hesitation and for all to take in right here, right now. Acids are soft and sweet, tannins never there. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Tenuta Le Maciè Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sergioveto 2022, Castellina

Indubitably Famiglia Zingarelli as a Riserva and for that matter any or all of their sangiovese. A mix of ripest fruit available at Le Maciè put to great barrel for thickening effect. This is the sort of Riserva you can chew on, swirling around the palate with creamy, red berry goodness. There are no holes or moments taken off, just a seamless and consistent wine from start to finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2021, Castellina

Really quite amazed at how approachable the Sergio Zingarelli Gran Selezione 2021 is acting this early in its tenure. A great vintage no doubt and yet not necessarily a sangiovese with it’s back against the wall, nor is there any reason to fear it’s tannic presence. No, fruit is king, generous and beautiful. A fine and fortuitous example that leads with its best foot forward, open and likely to stay this way for a few years. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Visibly luminescent, highly aromatic and distinctly seasoned for 2022 Chianti Classico Annata. Crisp and vocal, crunchy and liquid chalky, squared at its corners, yet not far away from softening, rounding and curving those edges. Tannins are still firm and in command. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tenute di Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigne Del Montornello 2021, Castellina

Montornello shows its stripes and flavours, wearing its emotions on the sleeves of its structure with all the vineyard notions in tow. Magnificent array of colours, aromas and flavours, in reds, blacks and blues, never relenting, welling up from a well of mineral and elemental happenstance. Big vintage for this Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Youthful and yet reductive, lightly white peppery infiltrate through the red rose floral bouquet. Syrupy in mouthfeel with high level tang and a fullness welling for the palate and low down at the finish. Lots of glycerin and a slight paste feel at the finish. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2022, Castellina

The work of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola and his natural of natural procurements, the firsts from ’21 and ’20 with their classic earthy funk – but no more, The clean and crisp clarity out of 2022 is a cause for sense of wonder and the precocious abilities of said maker are in plain view. Fruit is securely ripe, tannins are severely restrained and the orange citrus acidity does the rest. The risk has clawed back to a safer space which sterilizes the wine just a touch. The best is still to come and yet with 2022 you have to give credit because it’s due. Bravo Cosimo. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

In bottle from 2023 and so not a sample but for a maker who picks relatively late (often well into October) the time spent before bottling is less than many. And so come expecting some awkward moments, even from the beginning because the wine has just not settled and transformed into what it will be. Not for a moment and many will be confounded if tasted this early. Revisit in eight months time. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The world of Tregole comes to the Gran Selezione appellation with late harvested fruit for it to translate as a fuller and more concentrated wine. More tannic freight then Annata and Riserva combined, now weighing in with trenchant and layered intention. Needing time to settle and find its way, this 2021 from Sophie Conte is some kind of unexpected tour de force. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

A Castellina Annata always held back and aged longer than most, at least one year and released as much as two later than the current 2023s coming to market. With thanks because my goodness the tannic profile is a tight and immovable one. Getting there slowly, nearly in stride and the wine should offer its height of pleasure by this time next year. For now there should be a lean cut of beef on the grill, a baseball top sirloin if you will, rested and sliced rare alongside. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Reductive and über primary with a sweet volatility in charge of the aromas. So very much in the house style where fruit is large and structure larger. There is no reason to expect the world and pass early judgement because there is little to see here in terms of a finished wine. Time needs to pass before it finds its way. Tasted twice at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Mineral, material, meaningful and of a clarity that Dofana does not show nor declare in 2020. Montaperto is clean living, sharp and focused Gran Selezione. Ripeness secured, acidity rising and tannins seething like a slow-simmered sauce, never rushed and developing complexities. A fine GS that shows the way for this Castelnuovo Berardenga terroir though still needing a few years to realize its potential. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

To taste a Castell’In Villa this early seems unusual to say the least and maybe even wrong. These are some of Chianti Classico’s longest lived wines, even at the Annata level and yet…and yet there is joy, light and promise right from the start. Hard to believe but here we are in the modern world and the house rolls with the changes – with no compromise to structure. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Well settled and comfortable within its Riserva Skin, softening and yet acidity persists at every turn. The driver is just that, sweet and salty, lightly caramelizing the deep red fruit into a state of its maturing accord. Feels like sangiovese from a warm southerly Chianti Classico location surrounded by all the macchia brush and herbs that a forest will provide. The development here tells us this will not be the longest aging Riservas from this estate. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A clear reflection of the house style and the coolest, smoothest and silkiest iteration of Castelnuovo Beradenga. Elevation helps, as does riposte fruit caught at ideal maturity, but also the hands of knowledge, calm demeanour and experience. Bossi’s is such a well-judged, layered and syncopated sangiovese, Bio and proper, come to the world with great effect. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Bossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Bossi’s 2021 is truly a different animal as compared to its Riserva, less forthright, not quite as open or soliciting of immediate gratification. A vertical solo sangiovese expression, seriously structured and needing time. That said there is a brightness and citrus aspect that’s quite invigorating. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Lovely perfume from Bossi’s Riserva and a 100 percent sangiovese that immediately attracts in just this way. A deep well of red fruit rises, coats and then fills the palate for what is simply definitive Riserva for Chianti Classico. No lack for tannins here neither and so come back year after year for five or more for the enhanced and continued experience. The work of a winemaker honing his or her craft is more than apparent. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

An early release 2023, realizing its potential ahead of usual to mark a minor shift in design and expression from Fèlsina. Never missing the evergreen note always prevalent in these sangiovese of southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga and Chianti Classico. A touch dusty and with the Balsamico of the località, though never shocking and really quite expected. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There have been great Colonia made over the past 12 years but does it not just feel like Giovanni Poggiali and his intelligent team have been waiting for 2021 to come along and take this cru to another level? The can’t ever miss style and macchia notes are present and accounted for, but here in the most hyperbole of ways. An exaggeration of riches, a highest level of fitness and fullness not yet uncovered. The 2021 is an amazing wine, minty and white chocolate woody but always evergreen and cool in the face but also as a compliment to its warming heart. Virtuoso performance by ’21 Colonia, a Gran Selezione with the nurturing care of Pietro Pettinaio, in the school of Giuseppe Collignon and Domenico Beccafumi, all in the name of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There’s something happening in Castellina from 2022 because there are wines with darker fruit and more depth than most of the Chianti Classico UGAs. Here with grip and this feeling of sangiovese liqueur exaggerated in colour and heft by the 10 percent colorino in the wine. Quite the extraction and the tannic presence for a profile bigger than Losi of the past. Another curious ’22 Castellina that can’t be ignored. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Quite the silky Castelnuovo sangiovese seasoned with salt, pepper and spices by 10 percent altri vitigni and there is no doubt the team led by Leonardo Bellaccini have found the sweet spot with this vim, relish and vigour 2022. Fruit and structure, one, the other, then back again for more. Incredible considering the quantities produced. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Quite forward and understandable as a sample, fruit certainly full, ripe and still a touch dusty. Not exactly rigid though not yet malleable in terms of mouthful and certainly structure. Well reasoned and so will round out into a good Annata, seasoned and understandably forward. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Nothing else scents like a Tolaini Chianti Classico, no matter the appellative level and in Annata the florals, mint and chocolate are at the height of heights. As is the luxe showiness, strut with feathers extended and beauty for all to see. Tannins are fierce and extensive, not to mention stretched far and long. Wholly impressive at this appellative level. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

With Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli – Villa di Geggiano

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Intensity from an ultra specific località with its descending fluvial screes between two hills. A microclimate unlike those on either side for which the sangiovese receives a mineral deposit all its own and 2022 brings the metal forward in full and proper distribution. Cuts through the fruit with sapid intent while fine if persistent tannins surround the whole. Best to let this ’21 sit for a couple of years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big vintage for Geggiano’s south-westerly Castelnuovo location transmitted through Riserva with all the fruit, and more. All the silky, cool and gelid feels there could and would ever want to be. Intensity of minerals, Alberese namely and who could not feel this mouthful of metal, gemstone and elements in the mouth. How could you possibly miss it? Sangiovese that stays with you for minutes on end. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Gaiole

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Not exactly closed yet not particularly expressive and so maybe the wish would be for this 2022 from Badia a Coltibuono to wait another year ahead of release. Still it has aged in bottle a year longer than some ‘23s now being presented and time will shift the gears for the wine to express its Coltibuono località. The savour and acidity of forests, elevation and mixed indigenous varieties accenting sangiovese delivers another ultra-specified Chianti Classico Annata. Close your eyes, conjure and recall BdC’s of the past and the 2022 will fall right into line. It could not have been made by just anyone nor have come from anywhere else. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A bit seductive this Riserva from Badia a Coltibuono, it should be supposed because of the vintage and fruit stands up to counted with more immediacy than memory will try to recall. Ripeness to the edge and lingering, suggestive of maturity but in a holding pattern. Liquorice on the palate and again this sort of palaver involved, but then the wine steps back once again. An immediate gratification, in other words a phrase not ever used before to describe a Coltibuono Riserva but there it is and so this vintage is more ready to drink. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2022, Gaiole

The door to “Vertine,” a località within Gaiole that Luca Vitiello and his Bertinga team have chosen to exult, explain and present to the world. Their’s brings more fruit and modern styling to Gaiole and in turn to the whole that is Chianti Classico. A ready for drinking, juicy and openly generous, 100 percent sangiovese for every reason to believe. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2022, Gaiole

A new epoch for Cantalici’s Baruffo begins with this feeling of a transition having happened. Not just because of the clean, cool and ultra clear modernity but also the absence of barrel, or the feeling that wood sheds little importance into this wine. Only sangiovese, expressly Gaiole and yet new for the UGA, or at least different. There is substantial chew in texture that reminds of liquorice and because of aromas meeting style, but also a chalky tannin underneath. No bitters at the finish confirm the change in direction where less has become more. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2021, Gaiole

A mouthful of acidity, tannin and mineral direct and defining Ama’s Montebuoni 2021, a wine not yet mature enough to say the window has opened. Quite woody at this age while the dark fruit is so very substantial and so time is needed to melt them into one another. That acidity and seriousness of Balsamic quality speaks to the Gaiole origin as the source for this level of appellation. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2021, Gaiole

San Lorenzo the concept comes from the vineyard with that name and now the ideal conceives of Gran Selezione as a wine to speak for all of Ama’s Gaiole. The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2020, Gaiole

Bellavista is first and foremost the Gran Selezione only made in select vintages, inclusive of 20 percent malvasia nera and also the one of ripest fruit with a view. The depth in 2020 is serious, the wine at once grounded and then acidity of a Gaiole nature kicks in to lift and see this Bellavista rise. Full and beautiful, seamless, orchestrated by a master of decades and artistic appreciation while delivering a modernist’s virtuoso performance. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Southerly directed Gaiole, Monti in Chianti sangiovese with the bits of malvasia and colorino lending colour and spice accent with liquorice and bokser pod for a dried herb, leathery fruit and botanical iteration. Nicely balanced affair with ample freshness and a settled disposition. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Just five percent merlot softens the sangiovese with many vineyards of the 130 hectares in total contributing. Usually the youngest vines and also some of the plots that experience the warmest climate for the season. Ages 15 months, half in cement and half in large (really old) French cask. No tannic impart and this is about as correct, clean, acid retentive and well adjusted a Chianti Classico as you are want to find. Warm vintage yet freshness and fruit quality is knowably ripe and easy. Less savoury and more fruit centric than in years past. Last tasted February 2025

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Campione: I mean of course its tight and yet to resolve but this sample by San Giusto shows more wealth of upfront fruit than could have been expected. Darker fruit than 2022 and also 2021, closer to 2020 but once again the individual character of modern vintages can’t be denied. Feels a bit serious at this very early stage but substance at this level will mean a wine that will be held in high regard. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Unsettled sample here from San Giusto, chalky and finely grainy at this earliest of stages. Just a glimpse into what 2022 will become, years further down the road. Can’t really recall a sangiovese from the house showing wood like this but the vintage will show more taciturn moments in wines built to last. Far more tannins present than noted in the last several years, a freight of weight tethered to the fruit, keeping it low and below. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Romantic dinner for two

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Sharp and clean while oh so 2022 but how could it not be? Well to be honest Le Miccine gets the vintage so bloody correct because the mix of fruit and body come together as one. There is no doubt this Annata is just where maker and place wanted it to be so kudos to both for abiding by their mutual bond. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2020, Gaiole

In Gran Selezione terms for Chianti Classico Rialzi is about as singular as it gets. Just drive up the road from La Villa in Radda, into Gaiole and through to Perano to know what you are dealing with. Olive trees, cypress, pine, other evergreens, rosemary, sage and brushy greens on your left give away to the single Rialzi Vineyard on your right. All that verdancy translates into these 25 year-old, cordone speronato vines for a very specific Balsamico, drawn from the greens, through the experienced vines and into the fruit. The vineyard was called “I Rialzi,” literally “the lifted up,” or now “the steps, or terraces. Lamberto Frescobaldi always insists “the vineyard matters most,” and in this case that is simply true. Aromatic confusion in a way but more so volume, palate tension and also vintage. Incidentally warmer than 2019, lending more volumetric credence and tending towards a bigger iteration of Gran Selezione. Feels more like the Rialzi of expectation and the kind of structure to go on and on. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2021, Gaiole

Freshness incarnate from the small single hillside Gaiole estate, a quintessential extension from a forest località, whole and fulfilled of its own accord. As equanimous as any Chianti Classico that exists. Silk-threaded and sumptuous from the first through filamented acidity and elastic texture. Tannins are fine, unobtrusive and acquiescing. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Francesco Ricasoli sets the 2023 up by describing it as “crispy,” which translates as freshness but who could not think of Brolio ‘23 as juicy. Classic black cherry for this label of 600,000 bottles encompassing all five soil types, 250 hectares and everything that is collected, layered and transcribed as the Ricasoli estate. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Campione: Youthful, still a bit reductive in a sweet bell peppery way, herbal amaro yet to stretch and let the fruit speak first. Good fruit however, substantial and showing Gaiole’s abilities for 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Riserva is truly the extension of Annata, from across the entirety of the Ricasoli estate and aged longer. Accedes to more concentration but still the Ricasoli style must be attended to; sharp, clean, drinkable and a provider of joy. This much is true and yes, the clarity is on display, so obvious in its openly generous and frank transparency. If there were rustic aspects 10 years ago they have long since left the building. It has been a matter of fine tuning, vintage after vintage. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Another ready to rock 2023 Annata and if any commune slash UGA is set up to deliver early it feels like Gaiole is the one. The naturally matured fruit and especially sweet acidity mixes with plush tannins that need not grip the wine but inserted allow for ease and drinkability. In fine form with a real neural swirl throughout. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Still in rapid pulse mode, agitative, unsettled and excited. High tones and fruit working from left to right, red to black, low to high. Croccante and crackling to the nth degree, rigid and vertical, structured as Annata can be but with a light, bright and transparent Burgundian like character. Remembering tasting this from barrel and not surprised to see this as the next stage result. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Federico Pini and Riccardo Bucciolini – Torcibrencoli

Greve

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Indelible stamp of the house, estate style present, accounted for and oft repeated, again as here, in perpetuity. For 2023 there is a deeper well of sweet fruit that hides the macchia and so a less savoury Carpineto is the result. Quite fine and openly generous this early to allow access ahead of most contemporaries Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

Consistently a matter of dark fruit, dusty qualities and Balsamico swirled into reductive syrup. Maximum ripeness from 2021 while località and winemaking style make sure to remind of every vintage that came before. There is no mistaking a Carpineto wine, exaggerated in Riserva and doubly so as Gran Selezione. Without any shadow of a doubt. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

The dusty song reminds of the same and in such a Carpineto way, from Annata to Riserva and straight through to Gran Selezione. Also from vintage to vintage and expect the top from 2021. That it delivers in terms of fruit if just some overripeness and yet still the acidity, Balsamico and as a combinative result, also here Amaro. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Rich and unctuous 2023 from the Dudda Valley, still quite tight, yet layered and fibrous. A fabric of place quilted into a tapestry of fruit and acidity with tannins at the edges to roll up and lock it all in. Should unravel, reveal its textures and brighten with time. Will be welcomed. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2023, Greve

One of the earlier released and drinking sangiovese is this from Greve in all its accessible and amenable glory. Classically styled with red fruit that speaks to what so many know and understand as Chianti Classico. Crisp and ultra fruity, like a bite out of a perfectly ripened piece of stone fruit, juices dripping with natural sweetness in overload. So well judged and made. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2022, Greve

Classic Vicchiomaggio styling for an up the middle Riserva road with ripest fruit and sweet acids before the softest and mildest tannins say hello. Easy, creamy, generous and correct. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2021, Greve

Time has done well to bring Le Bolle into a fine light and this from a Gran Selezione never pushy, heavy or tense. Does not demand too much form our palates and gives senselessly of itself. Quality wine in good temper and very much alive. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Le Bolle, the name of the cluster of houses in a specific locality and therefore in the register inside the frazione of Greti within the commune of Greve. A Gran Selezione single vineyard of just sangiovese, initially made in 2006 and first presented as a GS at VinItaly in 2019. More aromatic volume and power than La Prima but also a smooth as silk sensation on the nose and also on the palate. Stylish, certainly more woodiness and perceived sweetness because the tannins are in fact ripe and the mouthfeel classically scorrevole. Longer and more persistent from a GS that represents the house style. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2024

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Wildly aromatic Annata from Jurji Fiore’s Greve UGA (hill of) Ruffoli Annata for Chianti Classico individuality. Fruit is on the darker side of the hill’s spectrum to speak for 2022 and not only ripneness, but how things ended up to be. Complex and structured, vertical, mineral and zested by dark citrus, inclusive of the imagined feeling of juiced pomegranate. So well made, unforced, non-plussed and yet to reach its peak. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Now here is a 2022 that shows us the greatness of the finest agricultural work, followed by studious attention in the cellar. Adds up to am Annata that truly abides by what the last 10 years have all been about. There is a balance and flow to this 100 percent Ruffoli sangiovese that some ‘22s struggle to find. Fruit first and foremost but then this proper mix of acidity and tannin, neither demanding more than the other and both supportive. So well managed and executed Annata, nearly ready to drink. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

First vintage of the “regular,” non single vineyard Chianti Classico was 2009. An Annata conceived from vines between 250 and 350m at the base of Greve’s Ruffoli hill. A perfectly correct Classico, dark of fruit, easy to enjoy, fine though never tart, acidity spot on and smooth. Clean as there could be and a clarity that speaks to style, precise winemaking and place. Made with 95 percent sangiovese with (5) canaiolo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2020, Greve

The single vineyard Classico from the oldest vineyard of 40 years where Alberese and Pietraforte predominate the soils. Not made in every vintage because, well quality and passion matter dearly to brothers Leonardo and Alessandro. You can clearly see the choices passed down from father Emilio and the stubbornness to only make quality wines with the season dictating the choices. Made in ’20, skipped in ’21 (though Riserva was made) and aged for six months in 15hL Botti after fermentation in stainless, followed by one year in cement vats. Il Paccio the name is just what every generation called this vineyard and place but no one really knows why it is called this. Such a proper Classico and representation of the designation “cru” because there is something so specific and distinct about this sangiovese (with eight percent canaiolo) in its sapid style. Ready to drink though you can see this aging five more years without any real change and certainly zero decline. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2022, Greve

Le Tre Vigne, two in Greve and the third in Montefioralle, three individualistic places, three separate geological entities drawn upon, gathered and collected for great Annata complexity. A liquid chalky, openly assuming and stand up to be noticed three vineyard set that struts but does not sit down, or still. Exercise some patience to allow it all to come together. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Torcibrencoli Chianti Classico DOCG Maria Giaconda 2020, Greve

The boys of Torcibrencoli have not only found something special for Gran Selezione but also the kind of sangiovese in Annata that takes their work to another level. Dark fruit of depth and breadth for this northerly Greve location and a saline undercurrent to cut through the drupe. Amazing work from young winemakers feeling their way through this appellative world. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Still a sample because it won’t released until next year but it is a finished wine. A vintage of quality though not completely there in terms of quantity. Unfortunately the next three years will be even smaller but things will turn around in 2024. Les flesh as compared to 2019 but the linear quality seems highly appropriate and the backbone will serve this wine well. Some austerity in the tannins to resolve but they are part of the trenchant plan. A masala of spice defines the finish. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2024

Lamole

Castellaccio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

In the hands of young Davide Bottai after the work from Lorenzo Bottai and Federico Lozzi. A light, bright, nearly ethereal Chianti Classico now with vines growing up at the highest part of Lamole above 700m with Monte San Michele looming overhead. This is impressive sangiovese from Lamole deserving of attention. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Lamole

Campione: There are Classico and then there are Lamole Classico which this emphasizes with a capital “L” as a cool, savoury and airy sangiovese. With a few percentage points each of endemic varieties canaiolo and malvasia which do effect an alteration with their ability to inject complexity into sangiovese. There is liquorice and Amaro, herbal pesto and a liquid chalky underbelly that speaks in the clearest of sandstone soil voices. Proper and reflective of 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

So much more modernity from 2021 in the Cinuzzi label for this faction of the Castelinuzza Lamole cartel with more glycerin and softness on the mid-palate than seemingly ever before. Can’t previously recall this much ripeness and in this style yet here we are with a sweetly generous and warming 2021. Get at it. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

Susanna Grassi’s 2021 continues to be the vintage of record and the extra year in bottle has done wonders to see her sangiovese (with 10 percent canaiolo) come through its period of transition. Aromas have concentrated, flavours conjoin with fleshiness and the wine now fully justifies the nomenclature. Terra di Lamole, master of its own terroir, terraces peeking upwards from 550m to 600-plus for a destiny above. Red fruit intensity elevated by the quintessential Lamole perfume forever and always. Terra di realtà, Lamole di cuore. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Lamole

Full sangiovese for I Fabbri, high acidity working alongside Lamole perfume with a feeling of wood because of the vintage. Quite a bit of earth on the nose in 2020, spice cupboard and liquorice. Unique for a Susanna Grassi sangiovese and nothing soft or light about it. So curious! Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Lamole

Like Riserva there is a wealth of fruit in I Fabbri’s Gran Selezione but this time the Lamole minerals strike first and fast. They take aim to inject an elemental jangling into fruit and coupled with the local perfume there is this wild at heart feeling about the wine. Major happenings in 2020 GS, complexities found throughout, bound up in the book of Lamole and with length from Greve to Casole and back. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Montefioralle

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Worthy exercise to taste 2022 next to the settled 2021 because you see how much bolder this next vintage really is. Silky sangiovese impurezza as it is said, warm and sun-ripened at elevation with a look to the Chianti Mountains due east. A syrup of fruit and acidity swirled and seductive, acids purely Montefioralle and a balance discovered throughout. Deeper and darker fruit, sinking into brooding and a sangiovese that will need time to shed it’s weight and rise up again. The acidity will see to that rising and when the weather warms in 2027 this Verrazzano will begin to drink as it should. Fine Annata and one that resembles the Gran Selezione, albeit as parts of the appellative whole. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted twice, at the winery and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2021, Montefioralle

One of three Capponi Gran Selezione and in 2021 this just has to be the succulent one with the most up front mastery. Easy to understand, full and persuasive, flowing, languid and long. Bastignano is the sangiovese that takes it all in stride, of verse flowing into refrain, a composition never delivering a moment of gratuity. There without forcing anything, balanced as they come, earlier drinking than the other grippier Selezione. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2021, Montefioralle

Contessa Luisa, closer in style to Bastignano then to Fornace with more glycerol and silken texture. Also a metal-mineral cloud burst through, like ink in slow motion, injected into water. Fruit feels purple or nearly so and here again the 2021 vintage is full of fruit so ripe and expressive. Memories of discussing the April frost and the state of Chianti Classico with Sebastiano Capponi flood back with a taste of Contessa Luisa. Such a fine Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2021, Montefioralle

The grandest statement of the three Capponi Gran Selezione is made by La Fornace, of the vineyard nicknamed “the furnace,” a place where solar radiation, especially in a vintage like this brings all the fruit out to play. More tension than the others, a greater demand made on our palates and a sapidity unlike the rest. Serious Selezione, perhaps less finessed and one to savour for years, but not quite yet. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection

With Neri Capponi

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2023, Montefioralle

A rare reductive 2023 though nothing serious, however there is a candied shell in surround of cherry/red candy apple fruit. Wood imparts vanilla and it’s hard not to feel a sense of syrupy style. A bit cloying while admittedly flavourful. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the rich and famous sangiovese to lead the Montefioralle charge with dark fruit for 2022 and more character than in many of its neighbouring UGAs. A liqueur of fruit and acidity in great swirl for Chianti Classico unction. Namely sangiovese with (five percent each) canaiolo and colorino, full and substantial, tannic primarily at the finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the full and substantial fruit-filled ’23 from Viticcio, an estate on a Montefioralle roll. Still taut and chalky but there is great promise from this set of presented probabilities. A relished effort that will lead to a just reward. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Prunaio 2019, Montefioralle

Prunaio is beginning to resolve, to see a next level of integration and a drinkability not too far away. Fruit is persistently fresh, acids sweet and fattening, structural parts in play though without any austerity or great tannin. There is some mind you, but in good control and working well alongside the pleasurable parts of this Gran Selezione. Fine work here in 2019 from Vitticio. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Shenanigans at Enoteca Baldi, Panzano

Panzano

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

For 2022 this represents perfectly fit and proper sangiovese with balance accorded and afforded all the way through. A wine of Panzano riches but also tannic austerity connected by the acidity made available and captured to strengthen the overall bond. A Cafaggio vintage that impresses with its mix of fortitude and charm. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2022, Panzano

Grippy and glycerin sangiovese from 2022, a reflection of Panzano through more recent times, here magnified out of Ca’ di Pesa’s corner. An exaggeration of warm vintage riches confiscated and expressed in this near simple Galestro syrup sangiovese. Wood is still an early factor and needs to dissolve into the fabric of this wine. Give it more time. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Consistent with the warmth and specificity of red fruit from 2022 that just keeps on keeping on. It’s uncanny how many Annata of the vintage are juiced from the same sangiovese vine, expressed as citrus in the most ripe and pith spiced way. Not a bitterness per se and nothing like black cherry but there’s something so distinct and unprecedented about the sangiovese, at least not as a profile that has come around in the last ten years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

One of the only Chianti Classico using cabernet franc (at 10 percent) to spice up sangiovese. This is Rignana’s use of the Loire (but in Tuscany) more so Bordeaux-styled grape variety for great sense and full expression. Brings another kind of verdancy and spiciness to Riserva and also to Panzano. More than curious, always sumptuous and for 2021 resulting in a great combination. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2022, Panzano

Like Dino (in amphora) the aging time in wood for Pastrolo is shorter and so this 2022 put to bottle in June of 2024. From the Lamole (UGA) vineyard pruned in a variation of alberello or goblet training style but the vines run higher due to Pastrolo’s steep terraces. The soils are unique, marine in origin and called marna di macigno, in other words a Galestro type of cracked or flaky manifestation, but in this case from sandstone. The grace and harmony of ’22 Pastrolo is soothing with a delicasse that no other Gran Selezione will ever show. It’s remarkable from this more than warm vintage and the 14.5 percent alcohol is barely perceived. This will wake you up, especially if you are tasting in the first part of the morning. Thank you Pastrolo. I needed that. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2022, Panzano

A finished wine because today is bottling day and what serendipity to taste it on the day. Vigna Del Sorbo is one of the vineyards that escaped the August 16th hail because it’s on the other side of the (Conca d’Oro) valley. Full quantity as a result, approximately one-third matured in new wood, the second year spent in older cask. Freshness captured and as always Vigna del Sorbo is the spiciest of the Gran Selezione but also the one of the three with the finest, if grainiest tannic profile. This after an aromatic wave of floral and mineral before giving way to a sangiovese that integrates with impunity. You’ve got to figure that the age of the vines are responsible for handling the heat of 2022. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Leolino 2022, Panzano

Just being bottled as we speak and the quietest opening pronouncement as compared to Pastrolo (Lamole) and Vigna del Sorbo (Panzano – Conca d’Oro). This from the terraces below and in surround of the Pieve up on the hill where Alberese soil predomimates, unique to Fontodi because schisty clay (with Galestro), Pietraforte (calacreous sandstone conglomerate) and Marna di Macigno (marine sandstone) define the other wines. The Alberese limestone makes for a crispier and more croccante sangiovese, magnified in 2022 and while this is also quite tannic the catalyst to exaggeration is made by the highest acidity of the three. Vinoso but even more succulenza, a very specific character that is San Leolino. In fact this Gran Selezione will take longer to come together, but again the vintage dictates and solicits this response. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Pietraforte conglomerate sandstone in full relatable regale suggests a most mineral Riserva from Gagliole for 2021. A Riserva of its own accord, owing less of a connection than some to the estate’s Annata or to Gran Selezione. Mainly because the former works with Castellina fruit and the latter is more block specific. Riserva from Panzano comes replete with exciting acidity and a blues note that bend…and hangs. Fruit in the middle with great confidence and tannins on the periphery. As good as it gets. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Panzano

Tasted as a Campione (sample) just five days ago and now the finished blend just bottled is in remarkably ready condition. As far as 2023 is concerned the combination of freshness and structure are about as connected as it gets. A Pietraforte meets Galestro mineral juiciness that bleeds terroir, Panzano and the purity of sangiovese. No reduction, nor volatility neither. An Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico cleans up really, really well. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, Balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024 and at the Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just sangiovese from the Panzano perch where Pietraforte runs through the ridge and only these sangiovese reek and taste of this particular mineral-rich sangiovese blood. As here with one that takes this thought to a high level from the vintage. Still quite a bit of structure here. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Geology of Panzano

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

A vintage predicated sangiovese as much as any and evev more so one that speaks to Panzano’s reaction to the season. There is a tendency to extract just a bit too much but Le Cinciole hits the proverbial nail on the head. The capture is precise, restrained and the wine acts undeterred. This to say it shows balance and potential, especially for Annata. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Aluigi Campo Ai Peri 2020, Panzano

Panzano expression incarnate, red fruit ripe and silken without glycerol gratuity and flirting with untethered gravity. A richness while also barrel work lending a creamy mouthfeel that still needs to soften further, integrate the associated spice and see this become a Gran Selezione of parts develop into the whole. Just some austerity in the structure stands in the way. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Juicy and forthright 2022 as much as any in Panzano and perhaps the 10 percent (9 + 1) merlot and cabernet sauvignon are to thank for the softening of this wine. Without their additions this might be one serious and tough nut to track. As it stands there is great structure involved and the expert blending has led this ’22 in a very proper direction. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Le Fonti’s is a 100 percent sangiovese from east facing Panzano vineyards with all the morning sun captured for Gran Selezione of truly effusive character. Tannins are a bit in charge however and there needs to be a reckoning sometime soon. A wealth of flavour, touch of mocha and so much more. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2022, Panzano

The unmistakable touch and feel of a Monte Bernardi sangiovese here from 2022, up in the air where rare and vacuous receive the fruit of a most passionate and discerning labour. Sangio’ is Annata born in the fields and nowhere but, cumulate of proper but also determined decisions to make full use of every grape available. Once in the cantina it fends for itself because it is equipped to do so and yes this is the most natural of wines in the way you would ask for it to be. Acids are elastic but will become even more so as the sangiovese stretches, fleshes and finishes its giretto. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025.

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted again, February 2024.

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

Purity and natural beauty for this Panzano Riserva. Something primary about it to be sure but c’mon it’s 2022 and the wine has barely touched the sky. Down to earth yes but bright and of a purple fruit exclusive to this estate and label. Monte Bernardi’s tastes like none else, in a class of its own and a sangiovese (with five percent colorino) such as this will change your mind about how to grow, ferment and bottle Chianti Classico. Just those three tenets of the process. Especially when they are as clean and pure as this. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

High quality fruit, ripe and luxe, expressive as any and thankful we all are for the wait. A 2021 kept a year (and in many cases two) longer than much of the rest, well executed in composition and all this in light of just a bit too much wood still on top. Nevertheless this will resolve and a very good Annata will impress with its wealth of fruit and complex character. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Another beautiful season, not at the beginning because of the April 7th frost which delayed development by a month – though in the end the wines showed with great balance. In part because of less bunches and bunch weight per plant but also because of a great September rain that followed a hot summer for the latest finish to harvest in recent times – September 25th. Everything in this wine moves in unison, all parts working together for a polished and luxe example of Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Radda

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2022, Radda

You can feel the warmth and lack of precipitation from the vintage, not quite 2017 aridity but the Macchia and Selvatica are surely present in every aspect of the wine. A mix of brushy and rosemary character, dried herbs and still the Raddese acidity keeps the fruit buoyed and alive. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2021, Radda

Just the second Chianti Classico Riserva turned out under the new ownership at Terrabianca and quite the refined example here from 2021. There is beauty and restraint, far, far less wood than in the past and a transparency that keeps things open, lithe and airy. Though the acidity is high in zest and piquancy there is a softness about how it presents on the palate. It results in a wine ready to drink but there is no hurry because it will stay focused like this for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2020, Radda

Some Gran Selezione 2022s are hitting the market and 2021 is the current main stage for the appellation but still there are estates staying focused on 2020. Like the new team at Arilla that must have watched this wine like a hawk over its aging tenure. Finally arrived and settled it has, not into maturity per se but ready to open and be consumed. Loving the captured acidity, so distinctly Raddese though not from the UGA’s upper reaches. A structural composition unto itself. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

More fruit and developed substance than the average and also compared to recent Brancaia Annata. The 100 percent sangiovese child of a long, slow, gentle and cumulative maceration to result in the most modern and seductive Chianti Classico. A pour of Brancaia’s 2023 Annata will be the one to convince world markets just how far the territory has come in the last 10 years. Definitive for the current state of the Gallo Nero. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

The most exotically perfumed Riserva in the territory, at least from 2022, with the scents of lemongrass, fenugreek and in the oddest way the aromatics that create a Thai Curry. Unusual? Yes. Seductive? Absolutely. Feels like a percentage of American wood and 20 percent merlot are the answers to the questions and still the seduction is real. If you like Rioja Riserva this will be right up your alley and if you can appreciate the different than you should also be pleased. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Bright and beaming, bursting with Raddese frescezza for a 2021 Annata now knocking on the door of success mode after nearly the right amount of extra time in bottle. Still quite crunchy, sure as Caparsa herbal and tannins not quite yet justified. Plenty of reserve in the tank for an Annata yet to fully reach its peak. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Youthful early release of Albola’s Annata, still tight and yet focused, crisp, crunchy and as they say, croccante. Crushable but not quite yet because the rocks have yet to pulverize and melt into the fabric of this 100 percent sangiovese. Truly Radda considering the quantity and worthy of you $20 bill. Drink 2026–2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

A ripe and dark fruit organized Riserva with high skin to pulp feeling in the musky perfume and husky flavours filling the mouth. Plenty of texture and tannin involved in the make-up and positioning with wood a factor and age ability the promise. Solid construct in a fine if recognizable Riserva contract. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2021, Radda

Much darker, compressed and more seriously compacted of substantial fruit defining Badiòla’s Radda character as compared to the less distinct Castellina label. Here a Gran Selezione from a terrific concave vineyard next to the 11th century church with a view to die for. Richesse and sweet acidity, a note of forest Balsamico and full palate fills without pause. Top drop for the family Mazzei. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Distinct and recognizable for this south-central westerly part of Radda with an herbaceous edge to the scintillant of red fruit. Charged and semi-electric, black cherry stone bitterness to the fruit’s back side and the presence of quality tannins made edgy by bits of green. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: Quite a youthful mouthful of fruit and tannin from Volpaia’s serious 2023, long macerated and viscous with time so necessary to settle it all down. Even the 10 percent merlot does little to soften the Raddese intensity at a time when the wine is yet to be put to bottle. Poetry of crunch and chew, botanicals and tonic, things all needing time. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

Truth for 2022 is Riserva as only Volpaia can gift, that is to say with restraint and respect for vintage. Perfumed yet never gratuitously so and the barrel work is done with a slightly heavier hand than in recent years past. Effects balance for a 100 percent sangiovese that feels cool, gelid, mineral and elastic. The wood does well to integrate the parts for Riserva without airs with thanks to its micro-oxygenating effects. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2021, Radda

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always di Volpaia. Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040. Tasted February 2025

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Fine fruit-centric Annata from southeast Radda’s Monterinaldi with a gentle easing in and glide on through. Plum and orange citrus work the room to keep the energy up. Bigger than 2019, on par with 2020 and consistently extended from 2021. That’s the way you do it and like it. Uh-huh, uh-huh. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Clean and bright, a 2020 Raddese acidity sharp and focused, so very different and as a whole in the vintage this sangiovese is day for night unlike the wines of nearby Panzano. As effusive and lithe as they come though wood is detected and not quite consumed. Still the light touch is noted and appreciated. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

For Monterinaldi Riserva resides between Classico and Classico Vigneto Boscone and picking happens between the two, though Boscone is an entity all on its own. This fruit usually comes from middle elevation. Riserva sees Botti and it’s just so obvious because there is more texture and compaction, not necessarily concentration but certainly tight grained layering because of the use of wood. So curious that even with wood this feels less barrel affected than most so Riserva. Monterinaldi’s is still a fresh and sapid sangioivese. Crunchiest Riserva in the territory, bar none. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

A much more mature, fruit fulfilling and also barrel-affected sangiovese from Radda’s Monterinaldi for 2020. The wood speaks boldly yet within reason and under the bar. As with Riserva the requiem of time will aid but also abet the highest quality fruit wishing to be chaperoned through. The feels here are high and airy, acidity remains in charge yet also requiring some settling. The 2020 represents an early ideological approach for the category and might be viewed as a youthful work in progress. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Knowably visible vivid seasonal style presented in the way of 2022, that is to say of dark fruit in a citrus vein, tart and intense but also a lactic quality involved. A different vintage, certainly warm but also one with a singular profile. Not a dried brushy or herbal one but something different, unique and without any obvious precedent. Unlike all previous vintages from this house. Still this from Radda is, well Raddese. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Angela Fronti at Enoteca de Giusti, Firenze

Istine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

Now labeled Gran Selezione. Here the Radda vineyard for Istine delivers all the Alberese and more in one of the more salty sangiovese you will ever taste. Like squeezing the limestone rocks for the juice to run into the grapes. The entirety of the wine tastes, notes and feels this way, It’s truly uncanny, lending definition to Gran Selezione as lithe and transparent as any Bourgogne. Vigna Istine need not be powerful and brawny – it’s musculature comes from finesse, determination and core strength. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: In the ways of L’Erta di Radda you will note the sapid streak through saline waters but more than ever there is the most naturally sweet and pulpy fruit swelling in mouthfeel for what has to be Diego Finnochi’s finest hour. The potential on 2023 Annata is as strong a guarantee as any of the vintage and in his tenure. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

The Perenospera (resulting in downy mildew) vintage but Piero Lanza only lost 10 percent of his production. Yes – he fared much better than many in the region. He remembers the 24th of June, at the time of the festival of San Giovanni in Florence. “I woke up on the 24th, a foggy morning, I went in the vineyard and everything was white. We sprayed and managed it.” The 2023 is only sangiovese, of 15 different clones and vineyards, a sweetly herbal example, oh so glycerin textured, holding more Bugialla (Riserva) fruit because none was made in 2023. Freshness from concrete aging mixes with wood spice for an easy drinking, balanced and well made Classico. Just recently bottled in December 2024. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: A barrel sample and the question is whether or not this should have been pulled for assessment. Does the choice help or hinder the estate? The open fragrance and specific Radda località perfume in this case answers the question with an emphatic yes, though it still depends on the finish of the wine. Again there is generosity and length, an extension of ripeness in all aspects of the cuvée and so again, yes. The issue is awkwardness and a middle palate section that feels gangly but all living things grow up and mature, as will TdC’s 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Val delle Corti, Raddese to the core, still unknown to many but those who know are keenly aware of the fineness in these Chianti Classico. Roberto Bianchi’s 2022 is not as sleek and silken as some long macerated wines he has made before and it’s also quite tannic for Val delle Corti. In that sense I think newcomers to his work will see this as more classically Chianti Classico sangiovese and so a new breed of consumer will join the parade. Line up people – this should also not be missed. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Full wealth of macerated sangiovese, nothing but the gold from old vineyards planted 50-plus years ago in high elevation and steep-sloped Radda. As textured in its silken robes as ever and also any, acids in line, fineness from entry to exit. Here the confluence of elevation, a vintage’s climate happenstance, worked to be cut from a new cloth and to the future coincide. No accident but a fully executed plan from a producer who gets it. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Casciano

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Villa Antinori label for Chianti Classico Riserva is far less consistent, or rather its consistency is not as refined as the Marchese label. More of a forced nature which is to say winemaking and styling take precedence over seasoning and complexity because of altre varietà complementari that round out the sangiovese. More palate paste, red crayon, liquorice and balm in this wine. Especially because of the vintage. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marchese Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Consistency thy name is Chianti Classico Riserva, Antinori – Marchese Antinori. Close you eyes and imagine 2020, 2019, 2018 and now 2022. The repetition and same level of quality persists and educates about the power, the ability to refine, rinse and repeat. Liquid red gold, gemstone sangiovese with the mysterious addendum defined as altre varietà complementari. Could there be merlot and/or cabernet sauvignon? Likely. Endemic varieties as in colorino, canaiolo and malvasia? Probably. All adds up to the naturally sweet, accumulation of fruit, acid and tannin, come together at the hands of a top notch winemaking team. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2022, San Casciano

The Gran Selezione of 2022 are at the top of the perfume heap, exotically charged and seriously effusive. Case in point Badia a Passignano with its waves of tropical spice mixed with Amaro botanicals. Chewy mouthful of spicy fruit, liquorice and a touch of tar. Liquid chalky, structured for aging and looking ahead for truffles. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2023, San Casciano

Young and brawny, tannic beyond the pale because truth be told this ’23 still feels to be in a Campione setting. As such the volatile elements, syrupy fruit, reduction and intensity are a bit over the top. Judgment of assessment must be stayed to allow for this wine to become more “finished” than it is in the current state. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avvenne 2020, San Casciano

“Kiss me,“ a play on words for the three men who own the winery, including Le Chiuse and Castello di Meleto oenologist Valentino Ciarla and a vineyard he purchased in San Casciano during Covid. Avvenne loosely translates as “please let me have some more of something, but in one word” and truthfully that is how you will feel after a glass of this wine. It’s is a sangiovese with some canaiolo of very old vines, truly San Casciano with a feeling of the local “macchia” and a natural wild quality, of great temper matched by restraint. The wine rolls and oscillates in waves, acts juicy, very aromatic, light, at times dusty and yet the texture is flowing. Never sharp and just the right balance from a super tiny production. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at Le Chiuse in Montalcino, February 2025

With Stefano Marinari and Federico Pini

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Primary, exciting and confounding in its profundity. A mouth full of sangiovese (plus 10 percent) canaiolo as if bled direct from the crush and run-off of San Casciano river stones. The aromatics are twisted and entangled, nearly strangled yet the palate expresses with intense platitudes. Oxymorons and misunderstandings commit to seeing a Chianti Classico of greatness when the wine will be bottled, settled and set free. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Now in the third vintage for Calcamura the aging is only in tonneaux, two Slavonian and one French. Only sangiovese from a vineyard in the middle of nowhere but a località called Poggio ai Grilli. Could that be the name of a coming Gran Selezione for Stefano and Andreita? The Annata will be a grand total of 430 bottles that spent a year in Slavonian tonneaux and one in ceramic Tava terracotta. A light touch for a San Casciano sangiovese for which acidity is tempered with 10 percent canaiolo to affect a sangiovese between salinity and sapidity. A wine made by experienced hands not trying to coax too much from the rockiest river stone soils available to anyone in the whole of Chianti Classico. Never ambitious, always respectful and a feeling gained from out of the receded waters (so to speak) to make Annata as pinot noir Burgundian, nebbiolo Piedmontesino or nerello mascalese Etnean as any in the entirety of the territory. A more precise and verging on profound Chianti Classico with that terrific combination of drinkability and structure. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, at Borgo Machiavelli and The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Truly primary and still quite a reductive element in charge of the wine. As with other 2023 samples there is not enough in the aromas to really set the tone but the palate delivers a luxe wealth of fruit and texture. Acids are running high, mighty and amok while the overall structure seems poised to see this Annata get set for a long and fruitful run. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Beautifully perfumed Riserva from Capaccioli in 2022 with experienced fruit from an old vineyard knowing just what to do. Exotically charged with aromatics by seed and tuber, star anise to galangal for a south by south east Asian spice bouquet. The ripenesses are necessary to keep up and all three do their part, if also the bidding to secure longevity. That will be the case for Riserva that should drink dutifully for up to 10 years time. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelli Del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Lactic and confected, liquid chalky and tart. Hard in the end. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Rich, full and creamy, acidity sweet and supportive while tannins don’t seem so interested in causing a stir. A no fuss nor muss Riserva that fills the mouth and the heart. The five percent merlot feels significant, bringing another element of softness to a sangiovese eager to please. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2021, San Casciano

High and mighty, bright and airy, marked by macchia and a bit of reduction. Herbaceous for sangiovese like Loire cabernet franc and so curious this way. Crunchy and really quite fun withs sneaky structure for a really good Bellezza – different but good. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico 2023, San Casciano

The brightest star shines from San Casciano with this ray of carbonic light, admittedly with a touch of Brettanomyces but one that hides in the layers, nooks and crannies of the wine. A 2023 and oh, so very young which says the wine will be cleaned and clean itself up given enough time. This is the natural world in sangiovese and Chianti Classico so be neither surprised nor alarmed because the risk-reward is palpable and should you accept the terms the price is worth the pay. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2022, San Casciano

Riserva exists in a similar vein as Annata though it is chosen form the identified block known as Vigneto Branca. Let’s face it, the approach, the precocious idealism and the intention are the same. This sangiovese needs time, to settle and flesh so that the nervous notes fall into line. The natural world again approached and infiltrated is something many love to join and be a part of the unbridled fun. Still others are troubled by the naked aggression and willingness to let wines be wines. This is that, non-plussed nor deterred and unencumbered by the constraints of faculty and pedagogical education. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Guicciardini Belvedere Campòli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Work in progress which means vineyards recently updated en route to becoming vines that will produce higher quality sangiovese. Also agriculture and winemaking assimilating the movement to prepare for Chianti Classico of a much improved, inching up to higher order. This is a next step but still one of the first for an estate on the precipice to deserving much greater attention. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Solo sangiovese from “a normal vintage,” fruit from young vines not yet come into their own, aged for one year in large 25 hL French cask. Grapes are harvested at Belvedere Campòli, delivered to be processed and vinified at Castello di Poppiano and coming soon is a cellar project to the Chianti Classico property. Quite pure and yet savoury with the finest grainy structure laying below the pulpy red fruit. Missing a point of acidity to say that ripeness comes first. A factor of vintage and therefore necessity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted October 2024

Belvedere Campóli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Belvedere Campóli’s ownership is Guicciardini of Castello di Poppiano – Chianti Colli Fiorentini and Massi di Mandorlaia – Maremma – Morello di Scanzano. Francesco Guicciardini was an Italian historian and statesman, a contemporary and critic of Niccolò Machiavelli and considered one of the major political writers of the Italian Renaissance. The Belvedere Campóli estate dates to 1915, was abandoned after the end of the mezzadrie system and purchased by Italian historian and mathematician Niccolò Guicciardini and family in 2015. They have been restoring and replanting vineyards since 2020. From the single vineyard called Tabernocolo, set just below the large forest above and indicative of the chapel on the estate. Identifying the vineyard as the one to define Chianti Classico as Gran Selezione was paramount while the aromas and palate notes remain so perfectly consistent with both the Classico and Riserva. Steps up the concentration, the mineral and elemental aspects drawn from the Pietraforte and the cool, almost minty savour in the flavours. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Open, fragrant, savoury and of a lovely oxidative style from 2023 that brings this sangiovese to a welcome and ready place, even before it might have needed be. But it and we are happy to have it drink with such ease because sometimes Annata must be a defender against tannin and time. The 10 percent merlot demos well to soften the blows and arrows of sangiovese’s San Casciano seriousness, with thanks and praises. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

High quality fruit from La Sala’s San Casciano vines for 2022 with a mix of warmth and a cool factor that cuts comfortably through. Some imaginative red crayon and liquorice notions put this in a bit off a rigid place to say that time is the requiem for the wine to flesh into the juicy sangiovese it wants to be. Loads of potential here. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink. Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new brand “Il Contadino Cusano” takes flight in 2021 with Riserva (and no Annata produced) because of frost-related reduced yields. An exaggeration of the local Torselli Balsamico and also really tightly wound acidity matched with equal force by grippy tannins. This is a different wine than the Torselli Riserva of the past, now with greater vibrancy and energy. At this stage the wines are made by Alessandro Campatelli with consultancy assistance by Carlo Ferrini. Something special begins and brews with ’21. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Not atypical for 2023 with blood orange juiced sangiovese of a high and mighty if also glycerol order and the intensity of savoury-herbal-higher acid (for San Casciano) tang. Fulsome and layered by all these aspects still unsettled and needing time. There is nothing ordinary happening here, in fact this is the sort of Chianti Classico that will wake you up should you fall into a slumber. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2021, San Casciano

Don Tommaso is Gran Selezione of the ripest order, satiny and elastic, metallic and sapid. A river stone vineyard reasoning, fullness of darkening tart acidity and serious tannins from 2021. Minty cool, Amaro herbal and again serious. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Hello Riserva 2021 from Casa Emma’s important Alberese stone-strewn Vignalparco that delivers the fortune of fruit and structure to a dark red-black sangiovese moving right of centre with all its accumulated glory. All the blood orange and serum right there on display and for the taking, unfettered and ready for action. Big Riserva with a soft heart, generous, open and free. Consistency in Riserva thy name is Vignalparco. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Though extremely youthful you can do nothing but imagine the rocky soils of Casa Emma from this excitable 2021. Lighter in hue, brighter and transparent by comparison to Riserva Vignalparco – which leads to the determining element and factor for calling this a Gran Selezione a most elegant wine. So stony mineral from the quantifiable Alberese found in these San Donato in Poggio hills. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feeling another level of concentration from Annata which tells us two things: First is that Monsanto escaped the challenges of 2023 unscathed and second that the quality of their generous quantity of fruit was exceptional. Though this is but a sample and way too early to really capitulate there is no doubt just how blood orange citrus mixed into red fruit San Donato in Poggio this sangiovese truly is. The five percent canaiolo adds some drops of tonic while the colorino brings it all forward in technicolour. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another Riserva of a unique set of circumstances, so floral and gauged by the stoniness of soils. Rich and unctuous, high acidity in place, fruit set up for success and tannins clearly lining the floor below. Beauty incarnate, the proviso of sangiovese perfumes returning again and again, sip after sip, promising and providinf all that we ask for. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

No shocker to find this San Donato in Poggio 2021 in a state of freshness, openness and availability without impediments, obstacles or borders. Just the fruit and a sweetness of acidity to match its ripeness stride for stride. Delicious as they say and ready to roll. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Indelible stamp of Montecchio and incredible substance of fruit, darkening in the way of black cherry with nary a moment of bitterness. Adds much glycerol and unction into that fruit as much as ever from this estate. Taut acidity and fine lines with backbone as structure does its work to provide the basis for longevity. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Wow! Something so different for 2022, of dark fruit but like something out of Chambolle, silken and so bloody complex you wonder where to turn. First you must sidestep the sweet and tender volatility and once that happens there are fruit and mineral notes clashing, mingling, singing and smiling. Dio mio, man this Le Masse is a mouthful to consider. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Martina and Alberto Fabbri – Il Poggiolino

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato in Poggio

The vineyards at Il Poggiolino may reside at moderate elevations between 250 and 350m but there are no south by southwest expositions and so in a hot vintage like 2022 the freshness remains a guarantee. Just three percent colorino goes a long way to raise up character of a Classico that only sees concrete and stainless steel for aging. Sweet acids match the fruit stride for stride and what you want is what you get – A level of drinkability that represents Classico and this northwest corner of San Donato in Poggio. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato in Poggio

A terrific vintage and yes many estates in Chianti Classico lost production to the April frost but at Il Poggiolino the maximum loss was 10 percent. And so come for the quantity and stay for the quality. Rich and concentrated, lightly chalky with a clay and stony feeling. Structure asks that we wait a year before opening the window and set this sangiovese with three percent colorino for aging through to the end of the decade. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2021, San Donato in Poggio

From a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery which may have been a expositional detriment 20 years ago but no longer. The change of climate puts this steep single vineyard sangiovese in great light today and so welcome to the third in a row of vintages that may just shock as to its character and quality. Le Balze 20 years ago was organized as large terraces and in Tuscany you say “le balze,” when you take a giant leap. This Gran Selezione has improved and grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years to join other greats to reside near the top of the appellative pyramid. Last tasted February 2025

Another perfumed and expressive Le Balze comes with as much if not more pulp and flesh a la mode than those San Donato in Poggio Gran Selezione that have come before. The depeche florals are Spring bloom fresh, the volume set at ideal pitch and you just need to keep putting glass to nose because, well you just can’t get enough. Richness is never compromised but it is belied by the beauty of a tannic caress about as graceful and gracious as there are. This is Il Poggiolino’s finest GS to date and that is saying a lot. “Just like a rainbow.” Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Crunchy sangiovese from Isole e Olena and the first vintage of the new era, blended and finished by the next team of winemaking. The ten percent canaiolo serves this 2022 well, striking a sapid chord to infiltrate what feels like super salty sangiovese with a decidedly lime-elemental strike. Almost piecing but the toothsome quality keeps things moving swimmingly along. The blend shifts from its original form and yet the DNA will not be denied. Genetics are strong and many years will have to pass by before the memories are forgotten. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Intensity of aromas so high and mighty for 2022 but also the tang, acidity and fine grainy texture to speak for San Donato in Poggio. Few ’22 Annata are this intense and implosive with the most blood orange juicing of any in the area. Ten percent merlot or not, all the aspects of this wine are at the high end of the spectrum and time is the requiem to bring them back down to a place of comfort. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Corbezzolo 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Going back a few years to look at the inaugural Podere La Cappella Gran Selezione, a wine that joins the appellative fray for the first time out of a high quality vintage. The artist formerly labeled as IGT was last made in 2016 and here three years later it joins the Chianti Classico pyramid’s highest distinction. More barrel than the past and therefore spice, espresso and finally structure are really in. So much so you will still have to wait on the wine to integrate. First showing and the future will surely see to greater results. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Heavy Chianti Classico at this earliest of stages and one wonders why it needed to be rushed to b bottle. Nothing open or nurturing about it, so primary and hard to access. Needs to be revisited several months if not at least eight to 12 from now. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Cinciano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Still tightly wound and somewhat reductive with a skin to pulp ratio resinous effect in place. Still much to wait for and to receive from what will surely be a giving and abiding Gran Selezione that acts out a distinguished and defined San Donato in Poggio sangiovese style. Comes from relatively low elevation vineyards at 250m of medium textured soils, Alberese based, stony with some low-lying clay. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2022, Vagliagli

The times it takes for a Chianti Classico estate to perfect a formula for turning sangiovese into beauty is long and those who figure this out make wines like these. Annata from estate vineyards treated and handled with the gentlest of touch, low and slow, collated through processes that identify the vintage, tempering and refining its challenges. Presenting La Ghirlanda which expresses its own balance involving fruit, texture and weight, making use of acidity to distract from tannin and find a wine that drinks proportionally from now through to the end of its tenure. To the next decade. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG I Colli 2020, Vagliagli

Riserva of experience and layering, a of fruit and acidity intertwined, interchangeable and complimentary. One then the other taking turns at the wheel, got each others’ backs, defending from tannins coming forward sweet yet fierce. Full and substantial in most every regard but especially those parts that exemplify optimum ripeness. No lack for beauty and grace – never a doubt or question. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Mocenni 89 is a special Gran Selezione, open, ethereal and generous. And it is just now entering its window of beauty with new surprise at every turn. Last tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Tighter Chianti Classico than many from 2022, acids wound around fruit and less of a softening from merlot plus colorino than in some vintages past. More dried herbal savoury than the Vagliagli norm, dimming of the brightness and not quite one cast into the great wide open. Brushy and Mediterranean like Vagliagli will be. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Vagliagli

Sweet perfume, a mix of fresh berries and Amaro, high in glycerin, quite concentrated and fully completely red, red wine. Juicy 2023, as seems to be the vintage case. Classic acidity and mild tannin make for early drinking. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2022, Vagliagli

Warmth of a vintage becomes and begets something different in Chianti Classico. The season is different than any of the last 10 and really just be looked at within the parameters of itself. There is this blood orange and red citrus feeling that can’t be shaken, incrementally different from one UGA to the next and yet consistently run through the entirety of the territory. Has there been another vintage so consistently perceived since 2014 or 2013? This wine speaks to that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2022, Vagliagli

Big-boned Novocento from Dievole put of 2022, dark of fruit and very mineral. Shows the warmth of the season in its grip after a palate that can’t help but be full and satisfy. Truly mouth-filling, sapid, not particularly high in acidity and long. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2021, Vagliagli

Vigna Sessina leads with its structure without apology or hesitation, of a palate attack taking hold straight away. A whole mouth of crushed rocks, very much in the way of packed and tannic Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, warming and coating in mouthfeel. So full and substantial without a moment’s softening. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Good to go!

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At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

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100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

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Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The year 2024 marks a historic one for Chianti Classico’s producers, their land and consortium. It was 100 years ago that Italy’s first Consorzio was formed and today it so effectively conducts affairs on behalf of and at the behest of the most important red wine of Italy. The ambasciatore Godello was a guest to the May 14th Gallo Nero celebrations and later in the month returned for another week of interviews. This on the heels of a most recent month-long journey spent in Tuscany, first taking in the Chianti Classico Collection, then followed by two full weeks of meeting with dozens of producers. The current preoccupation is with Chianti Classico’s next generation, whose daughters, sons, nieces and nephews are returning to work their farms alongside parents and grandparents at nearly forty estates. And counting. The region’s progeny and their view to the future ushers in an extant situation of meaning and promise. Feel free to read between the lines and envision what stories will next be revealed.

Chianti Classico gives unconditionally and without seemingly ever needing to try we receive its gifts, all in and forever. There can never be enough days spent transversing its verdant hills, foraging in teeming forests, walking up and down rows through 10,000 hectares of vineyards or breaking bread with its people. It is simply never enough. Four decades of the Gallo Nero have occupied the writer’s mind, heart and eyes from a territory unlike any other and in the last eight years the association has bordered on obsession. Visits in the last six months have seen the author driving to all points taking in its 11 UGAs, talking, tasting and better getting to know acquaintances and friends. All in the name of “love for the territory, passion for quality, social cohesion, vision and foresight.”

Godello at Villa Calcinaia

The promise of 2024 comes on the heels of a most challenging 2023 vintage which saw more spikes in extreme but also unpredictable climate events, but also 30 days of (May-June) constant rain that encouraged the nasty downy mildew issue called Perenospera. The serious pathogenic foliar disease reveals itself in the form of leaf spots, blights, and distortions, forcing the hands of growers to effect a strong, concerted and persistent attempt at spraying copper and sulphur to combat its deadly activity. This next vintage will fare much better, climate be willing, yet it remains to be seen just how resilient Chianti Classico vines will be.

Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico Cento Anni Gala, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

In the third week of May the three Capponi siblings, Tessa, Sebastiano and Niccolò hosted a grand celebration of Villa Calcinaia’s 500th anniversary. At Brancaia in Radda it was proprietor Barbara Widmer who poured 20 vintages of her Toscana IGT Ilatraia. A meaningful visit with Martino Manetti at Montevertine helped to recalibrate and reorganize thoughts about sangiovese and Chianti Classico. Back in December of 2023 the writer spent a few days with Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi as he packed up to depart after four decades at Olena and blended his final wines at the San Donato in Poggio estate. Working with him briefly on VinSanto del Chianti Classico 2011 will never be forgotten. De Marchi is a Chianti Classico treasure and history will always regard him as a winemaker, thinker and great man who was integral to the appellations’ transition from the 20th into the 21st century. As will many other women and men of the territory who begin the conversion processes of passing their torches to the next generation. These last five years have seen the first stages of a paradigm shift now in full swing and these next five will see to Italy’s most fascinating transformation. The modern era of a next golden age is upon Chianti Classico and if you are not already paying attention, it’s high time to get on board.

Related – Chianti Classico goes to eleven

Cento Anni

On May 14th, 2024 the Chianti Classico Consortium celebrated its first century together with the city of Florence, one hundred years ago after its founding in Radda in Chianti. The first consortium established its offices in the historic Uguccioni Palace in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria and the 2024 occasion resumed its position in these headquarters located within the historic city centre. Godello was proud, privileged, overjoyed and content to have been invited to participate in such a sincere and consummately orchestrated occasion.

President Giovanni Manetti speaks at the Chianti Classico Consorzio Cento Anni, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The day’s events began with the conference “Back to the Future: Sustainability and regional identity – The future of quality winegrowing,” moderated by Luciano Ferraro – Corriere della Sera in the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. First introductions by Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori. Local speakers were Francesco Lollobrigida – Minister for Agricultural Minister, Food Sovereignty and Forestry; Eugenio Giani – President of the Regione Toscana; Dario Nardella – Mayor of Florence. Esteemed guests from other significant denominations were invited to offer up their congratulations; Matteo Ascheri – President of the Consorzio Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Italy; Gilberto lareias – President of Port and Douro Wines Institute, Portugal; Morgen McLaughlin – Executive Director of Willamette Valley Wineries Association and Wine Foundation, Oregon USA; Thiébault Huber – President of Confédération des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne, France; Maxime Toubart e David Chatillon – Co-presidents of Comité Champagne, France.

Chianti Classico Cento Anni, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

What followed was a dissertation and then a round-table discussion covering the intrinsic link between wine and land, the cultural landscape and sustainability. Speaking on Chianti Classico’s cultural landscape was Professor Paola Eugenia Falini – Head of science for the UNESCO application and her talk titled “The estate-villa structure in Chianti Classico.” Ferraro led the round-table with Giovanni Manetti, Piero Antinori, Tessa Capponi-Borawska, Giangiacomo Gallarati Scotti Bonaldi, David Gleave MW, Monica Larner, Prof. Andrea Lucchi and Alessandro Masnaghetti.

Chianti Classico Back to the Future

Nine other events took place over the course of three days in May; Five meetings with starred Florentine chefs, their plates paired with Chianti Classico wines, a musical pairing orchestrated by Leonardo Romanelli and conducted by Filippo Bartolotta. Of greater significance to the future of the Black Rooster were gatherings moderated of Falstaff Magazine’s Simon Staffler with the next generation of producers under 40 who are being passed the baton and given the keys to the territory’s future. The most exciting Cento Anni event took place in the evening of May 14th where 500 guests gathered at the Teatro della Pergola di Firenze for a gala dinner to win all gala dinners. Nothing in Italy recently experienced has compared to the night’s mix of spectacular and emotion.

Cento Anni at Prowein 2024

As with previous anteprime collections the vintages poured were varied and so it was the mix of 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2019 wines that collectively offered up an indication of what is happening in today’s Chianti Classico. Many of the ’22s were poured from campione, hit or miss tank samples often challenging to assess and so even at the Annata level the ’21s are considered to be the current vintage. Though lower in quantity it is the 2021s that are of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers chose to keep their wines behind to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle. In this report the lion’s share of wines tasted happened over the course of one week ahead of, during and across two further weeks following the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Some additional notes are from visits made in December 0f 2023 that were not included in Godello’s recap report covering the second half of that calendar year. More tastings from May 2024 are also included in the following 403 reviews.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

The breakdown is as follows: Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 (49); Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 (80); Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 (19); Chianti Classico DOCG Older Vintages (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020 (34); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019 (12); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG older vintages (18); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 (7); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020 (35); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 (20); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG older vintages (12); VinSanto del Chianti Classico DOCG (2); IGTs (87). Thank you to everyone for reading.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Dusty and sweetly herbal sangiovese with the warmth of vintage and softness endearing through 10 percent cabernet sauvignon plus (5) merlot. A chewy texture, easy and getable, of no particular pinpointing, yet proper for its broad swath of distinction. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Errico, Marta and Gabriele Buondonno

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

A finished wine already blended though drawn from a sample that will be bottled in December. A bigger production than normal and so a sangiovese of volume in more than one dimension. There was some rain in the summer to make the difference but not much, neither occurring too early or too late to compromise quality. Solo sangiovese in vitro projecting forward towards really important structure noted through some chalky tannins. Spiced and spicy notes, depth of fruit and also lifted acidty, all adding up to a Chianti Classico packed with more stuffing than many. This is as good as anything Gabriele has, but also now in collaboration with son Errico Buondonno have made to date. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

True blue 2022 still working through the motions of getting ready for the world and the journey ahead. Ripe fruit from 2022, like 2017 but with more succulence and generosity. Juxtaposed by an underlay of evergreen and a moment of creosote, but also clove. Concentrated from a well-pressed and extracted sangiovese made just that little bit sapid from five percent canaiolo. Wait a year at the very least. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2022, Castellina

L’Aura is another 2022 that shows a readiness and immediate appeal much sooner than most, with thick and unctuous fruit made fresh and bright by one of the higher points in Castellina. Great spicy accents, salt and pepper seasoning, thick pulpy red fruit and some of the vintage’s sweetest acidity. A terrific early to mid term sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Andrea, Daniela, Sergio and Giulia Zingarelli – Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The line of Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico is now separated from the single estate wines, but says Andrea Zingarelli “these are the wines that show where we were born.” Another hot vintage but perhaps more equilibrium overall than 2021 and it shows. This separates from Famiglia Zingarelli and yet it’s inextricably linked. There is five percent merlot that rounds it out and the fruit comes from all the (and only) Castellina estates. No noise, just the facts and the sounds, smells and tastes of the territory. This may just be the cleanest, naturally sweetest and perfectly drinkable Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico ever produced. It will appeal to any and all. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

With Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The latest from Sophie Conte (also tasted from barrel on December 4th, 2023) is her first crowing moment, at least to date and in terms of her young career in making Chianti Classico Annata. De-stemmed and no pressing, fermentation at 24 degrees (celsius), 10-12 days, saturated with nitrogen, taste every day, separated when the skins release no more. Made with three vineyards’ fruit; Vigna del Bosco, Vigna del Strada and Casa, right by the house. “I’m pretty happy (we hit the point) in 2022,” admits Sophie. Brightness and freshness found, the goal achieved and bitterness kept not only at bay, but fully away. An aromatic swirl of pinpointed Castellina intensity that draws from the winds and the slopes to translate soil as best and purposed as any. You can feel the energy waiting and wanting to be released. No lack for structure from Conte’s 2022, young and yet to evolve into the polished solo sangiovese it is destined to become. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Surprisingly forthright and open knit for such a young and impressionable Annata from Fèlsina. Calm and relatively settled so soon after going to bottle. The acidity is both sneaky and essential with tannins so similar in their design and style. A full and complete Berardenga for Castelnuovo in 2022, getable earlier than ever before yet in no rush to mature. As clean and generous as ever from the estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Sample or not this smells just like Tenuta di Arceno. A southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga dry, dusty, sharp red fruit and herbal aromatic swell that increases with air to a glorious vanishing point. What follows is another swell of the same fruit and equally sharp acids that carry on wayward along. As for 2022 well this may seem akin to 2017 but as an Annata so much brighter, cleaner, fresher and frankly better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A finished wine though quite compact and reserved so seemingly caught in that limbo between the idea of campione and set to be ready. Quiet and tight, some leather and cherry but those typical notes don’t say so much. Strong-willed, forcefully tannic and frankly feeling pretty ambitious. Should rightly age long and successfully though the jury is out on where and what the end game will be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico DOCG Il Palei 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Strong willed, boned and still in a state of reserve for a 2022 that not only needs to find the bottle but also further in bottle aging to open up any cracks in the structure. Rich and caky, wood a serious factor at this stage with a structural comport that will see a ’22 follow the sun towards a good long life ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

With Arturo Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Only Ama could pull and gift this much upfront fruit to draw us in as quickly as we do. Richness accrued and balance incarnate, more than juicy acidity and fully encapsulating tannin. If this is what Annata is all about the ceiling is unlimited for San Lorenzo and the more interlocutory and focused single vineyard Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Super ripe of fresh blueberry and sappy at this awkward stage. No doubt about the tenets of depth, breadth and major substance, not to mention ripe, layered and sweet acidity followed by crispy tannins. Long life ahead that should begin to unfold in three years time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Less of a hard nut to crack as far as 2022 barrel samples are concerned because La Montanina’s has found and first turns to upfront fruit. The middle ground is a bit chaotic but then the finishing parts ate about as powerful as they are capable of brining it all together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Classic lift and high tone of a Ricasoli Annata, more so than those of the recent past. Several layers are here to unfurl, first from classic cherries, followed by Gaiole saveur and notable wood spice. Almost a smoulder but not quite, plenty of freshness and a true sense of 2022. Really well made and appreciated. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

By now this unctuousness and thickened emulsification of the palate’s mouthfeel has become the calling card of 2022 Chianti Classico. Richness, sweet acidity and succulence with this by Riecine arrives as sweetly concurrent as they come. This means tannins as well, good for the gander if not for the long-term cellar. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

You could blind these 2022 Chianti Classico and no matter the UGA they all deliver a thickening of glycerol texture and glide silkily across the palate. There is just a hint of reduction in the Rocca di Castagnoli with moments here and there of Gaiole savour before finishing with a pique of seasoning and spice. Good complexity and fine tannins seal the deal. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Campione: Youthful an traditional sample, Greve classicism defined, dry and balsamic inflected, tannic and far from opening forward. Doors are closed and may not open for another year. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Comfortably reductive and set in its ways but also into skin because the quality of skins in this higher quantity Annata are in delivery of top freshness and potential. A fine example of vintage and one to set eyes on the future with peppery sweetness of fruit and spice. Crunchy and furthering the notion for how Castello di Querceto has truly cemented into the golden age of its Chianti Classico style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2022, Greve

Campione: Perfectly balanced sample of 2022 sangiovese, Greve and Vicchiomaggio, red fruit captured with as much perfumed ripeness as could be desired while also fulfilling palate needs. This is what should be expected and gifted from a Campione – a window to the drinking window and potential of the wine. No need for wonder or worry – you know you will get the right stuff from Guado Alto ’22. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

A blend of all vineyards, Ruffoli (Greve), Lamole and Radda, 100 percent sangiovese since 2010. Frost in April claimed many buds but the soldiering on resulted in high quality fruit from all three sources to create as fine an Annata, variegated as ever they could layer as Querciabella. Fruit, acid, tannin on perpetual repeat, mille foglia, maximizing natural purity and sweetness. Also as aromatically charged of tri-terroir perfume to lead where and for what a Querciabella attempting to express itself must be. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Lamole

Campione: Full on expression of the Lamole perfume, from violets and iris to the wet green moisture from calcareous hillsides and humid sandy soil elegance. A lovely swirl of fruit so glycerol in nature and that gentle pique of spiciness upon the palate. This is a 2022 that will be glorious because the team and their most focused of micro commitments have really found the vintage beauty out of the UGA. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Full and substantial which is pretty much what we have come to expect from a Lamole (di Lamole) sangiovese and to a degree much higher than any other from that UGA. Perfumes yes but fruit and texture are the base ingredients to make this wine swell forth. Lots of love and deep space in L de L’s 2021 with a sleek Macigno feel throughout. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

High octane aromatics, petrol and plasticine, raw dough and reduction. A train wreck up front and then beautifully glycerin on the palate. Gives off the feeling of a Campione because of the early heat and oxidative sample. Thinking the finished wine will be a great improvement, Stay tuned for another taste somewhere down the line. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2022

Campione: Big, bold and promising Gagliole Annata sample, fortified by Alberese and Pietraforte stony soils, clearly large and impressive. Big tannic freight and profile for the appellation, two years away from settling and five more before the window is fully open. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Though the journey for 2022 was a challenge it was also a vintage combining quantity an quality, then ultimately balance. Tasting from several tanks saw some variability in the samples but technical director Iacopo Morganti’s culm measures and crafty blending helped this sangiovese find its way. The cuvée has finished clean and moderate, certainly lighter than 2020 and 2021 but characterful to a great solo varietal degree. A clarified 2022 that fills the spirit, reminds of the place and provides conspicuous local macchia or balsamico. Treads lightly and delivers that Panzano at Radda’s border to a “T.” Fine wine, nothing big or impressive, but simply IMG sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Pizza by Michael Schmelzer

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2022, Panzano

Bottled in March, classically Montebernardi juicy as F and at the peak of Panzano perfume. Spiced chalky aromatics too, carried forward and that’s the segue in combination to accede a structured feeling for unlimited possibility. The appellative level seems not to matter because this is cracker fresh and pure sangiovese from the thinking grower and winemaker that is Michael Schmelzer. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted again, May 2024

Campione: Just pulled from barrel so not yet blended and therefore not a finished wine. A perfumed, classically so vintage with succulence, crunchy and liquid peppery. Not its most refined vintage, neither vivid nor intense but it will surely show better once it settles in bottle. Truly perfumed and that will only increase as well with time. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangio’ 2022, Panzano

Brancaia Chianti Classico

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

All sangiovese with Radda and Castellina fruit, mostly in concrete (though not quite all) and only steel for the rest. Some fruit is or will be coming from Poggiolo Vineyard in Castellina, a property owned by Candians Rob and Darcy Gillespie. Juicy and simply freshness incarnate. Last tasted April 2024

Sleek, suave and chic Annata for Brancaia out of 2022 with layers of red and blue fruit augmented by quality tannins. Early stages of reserve and reduction but there is no questioning the levels of substance. An extension of a change in style that began in 2019 with the move to bright and honest Classico, yet ’22 is clearly bigger, weightier and with increased structure. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Top Radda terroir, high elevation, rolling terrain, excellent exposure and no lack for biodiversity. Adds up to great potential while 2022 is currently rough and tumble. Chewy sangiovese with wood still noted and yet to melt into the whole. Time will be an ally so that the rustic elements soften and parts integrate better. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

At Radda nel Bicchieri with Angela Fronti and Lorenza Rossi

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: “Arancia sanguinella,” says Angela Fronti, that note of blood orange she always finds in her wines. A really dry summer and you find a level crunchiness and dried herbs from a vintage where picking continued consistently every morning through late September and early October. Clean the grapes as you go explains Fronto and in the end she was very happy with both quality and quantity. Crisp and crunchy Annata for Angela Fronti, undisclosed in its gratuity and wound up like Angela Fronti on a 100 foot high rock face. In other words focused, determined and competitive. Not sure this should even be tasted and assessed in any shape or form today. Come back soon. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: Now the is a proper sample. Fresh, clean, energetic and persistent – doubly refreshing. Lift and beauty of sangiovese with that perfectly judged pH and sapidity raised by 10 percent canaiolo. The problem is this is the kind of sample that makes producers want to submit more of them and yet great showings like this from L’Erta di Radda are the few and far between. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Might come in thinking that tasting and assessing a 2022 and Monteraponi would not be a great idea in February of 2024 but this Braganti sangiovese shoots favourably straight out of the gate. A fulsome and handsome Radda as a varietal expression of fruit so ripe and unctuous you might consider drinking a bottle today. Surprising candour for a Monteraponi this early in its life but there it is, open and generous, social and genteel. Structured as well for many years to continue acting this way. Someone and something has surely softened. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra, San Casciano

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

For Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari the hope is to increase to a maximum of 12 hectares and 35,000 bottles. “This is our dimension,” tells Matteo. And drinking others’ wines is key because if you don’t know what you like then you don’t know how to get where you want to go. The 2022 Annata was just bottled six-plus weeks ago, on August 31st and so this potential hinderance is kept in mind. The first vintage for which a portion was aged in the used Stockinger cask and some more stem (whole bunch) usage moved from (normally 20ish) up to 50-60 percent. You can sense the energy and increased power but still there is a transparency and a purity of red fruit that will not be denied. Comparisons are futile but those who seek out this style in cru Barbaresco or Côtes de Nuits Premier Cru will latch on here, likely to never let go. Next level for Fucile and Vaccari. Don’t care how young this wine happens to be – the potential can’t be ignored. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: The tiniest of properties (one hectare) and smallest of productions (2,000 bottles) in San Casciano from Chiettini. A sample but one nose into this 100 percent sangiovese and you know you’ve found something meaningful. A wisdom in the wine born of great terroir and an agronomist’s acumen. The winemaker seems inconsequential or at least respectful to everything else. There is calm demeanour and a presence of freshness, soulful savour and weight without compression. Hard to know what it’s all about, but knowing more will be a next pursuit. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Luiano Chianti Classico 2022, San Casciano

As youthful as it gets for assessing 2022 Chianti Classico and in fact it’s hard to remember a vintage its equal. 2017? Not even remotely exactly. And yet the ’22 from Alessandro Palombo is a thing of San Casciano beauty, aromatically charged of local perfume with as much depth in red fruit as there can be. Clearly verdant as per the UGA’s way while the fruitiness marries happily and walks equally side by side. Merlot does indeed soften and alter the overall expression but why knock deliciousness? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Quite a taut and wound Annata for 2022 with the advantage of elevation next to woods for freshness and crispy preservation. Does well to foil the dried herbs, brushy savour and further aridity provided by austere tannins. Should all come together in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti’s Annata is just about as ready in youth as they come for 2022 and that is not something that can often be said. Duccio Corsini’s work in the river stone strewn fields and modern approach in the winery have been showing recent gains but they keep on coming for sangiovese (and five percent colorino) for immediately gratifying appeal. This will be ready to please in full by the fall of 2024 and with zero reason to doubt. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Blend is 90 percent sangiovese, (5 each) canaiolo and malvasia nera. A 2022 and so a finished wine recently put to bottle but still reductive, reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if hard to access because of extreme youth. Great potential lays ahead no doubt. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

One of the prettier 2022s at this earliest of stages because there is nary a moment of reduction, nor drying notes of any sort to distract. Aromatically open and still secure though no impenetrable fortifications hiding the beauty of fruit or potential of the wine. Traditional sangiovese plus two complimentary varieties for a Monsanto take of the estate’s specific corner of San Donato in Poggio so proximate to Poggibonsi. A full and substantial Annata with a high ceiling as an example set for the UGA and also the territory. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Le Filigare Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Stewed and reductive, nearly impossible to assess. Rich an chalky fruit, loads of acidity and tannin. So very sangiovese with a sapid strike by canaiolo and intensity (also for colour) by colorino. Return after two years in bottle. Tasted February 2024

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

No other Annata is field blend relatable as this from Quercia al Poggio with at least four additional varieties filling out the 80 percent minimum of sangiovese. A largest portion of (12 percent) ciliegiolo and bits of canaiolo, malvasia near and colorino add up to quite a fantastical mix that truly compliment, season, spice, elevate and lift this Annata. A truly fine ’22, rich enough but so complex and quite frankly just has to be the top this far for Vittorio Rossi and oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2024

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Large production from Vagliagli, wood dominant in resinous and medicinal aromas. Lacks some clarity because the winemaking clouds the source and the wine turns toasted and pruned towards the end. Drink 2024. Tasted February 2024

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Southern Castelnuovo Berardenga within the western Vagliagli wing savvy and seductive character, big on fruit though more restrained out of 2022 than before. Deep of inflections reddening to black though again there is a level of admirable restraint. Quite tannic however and so consistent with previous vintages there is a need to exercise some patience. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

CCC2024 at Stazione Leopolda

Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

The only Cecchi Chianti Classico produced as a négociant with some other Castellina grapes purchased for this Storia di Famiglia. The family wine, most distributed, easy to drink, just sangiovese and one that must be “a mirror to the vision,” inists Andrea Cecchi, which it clearly is in the most professional way. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Primecolle Villa Cerna 2021, Castellina

Primecolle, the first hill that you see coming in to Villa Cerna with a 360 degree panorama. The expression is not the same as that of Storia di Famiglia but still freshness and Castellina savour that comes from the local argilla soil. More terroir involved, a balsamico and identity that’s even a bit rustic, austere and stringent. Crunchy sangiovese however, with a more trenchant identity and one to really sink your teeth into. Drink 2024-20267. Tasted May 2024

With Enrico, Monica and Cosimo at Villa Pomona

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Pomona comes beauty and also love, of sangiovese (with just two splashes of colorino because it’s there) and who would not intuit that Monica Raspi has become one of this territory’s great instinctual makers of Chianti Classico wines. Rich and understated, unctuous, restrained and refined. Precisely Raspi, Pomona and this drift of a vineyard space in southern Castellina. Something about this Annata is just perfect. Last tasted February 2024

Monica Raspi’s acumen and comfort level have acceded the exceptional because she is passionate about making top echelon sangiovese as much as any winemaker, self-taught or not in Chianti Classico. The 2021 includes just five percent colorino, took 10 days to ferment and remained on its skins for somewhere between three and four weeks. This is a significant number, more prevalent in the region than it was just a few years ago and when managed right will transform Chianti Classico into sangiovese of the ethereal. A substantial, silken and seductive ’21 here from Pomona with its mix of sweet acidity and Castellina liqueur. The tannins are liquid Alberese chalky from a linear wine moving upwards and forwards in stride. This has the length and the balsamico specific to Pomona. A top body of Annata work from Raspi and just the sort of style to pass on to the next generation; Cosimo and Costanza. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

More richness and density than what we’re used to from a Lornano Annata, especially from one made with 100 percent sangiovese. Immediate warmth aromatically speaking and without pause to palate, nor as breaks in structure. A sensation of roasted nightshade vegetables and toasted meaty char. Would be a confusing wine poured in a blind tasting with some varietal examples from the southern hemisphere. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Chianti Classico DOCG Fonterutoli 2021, Castellina

Always traditional with a dried herbal, dusty and brushy component, but truth is the refinement in concrete really silkens and smooths out Annata for an enticing and getable drink now style. Challenging but conversely successful vintage because fruit stands up vertically with the gift from an outstretched sangiovese arm of immediate gratification. Top quality for the usually healthy production Classico for here, now and all to enjoy. Will show at its best a year from now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

For Giacomo the Classico is a “traditional blend and vinification.” Elevated and lifted aromatics from Castellina for Annata, aromatically charged, lifted, phenolic and allied to the palate with well ripened fruit. Sees time in Botti (Tuscan from near Ruffina) and Slavonian wood. Not so much a matter of volatility as about freshness, but a verdant stripe does run thorough the perfume’s middle. Cool, minty savoury, sapid and salty with a feeling of the endemic ethereal. Great curiosity and controlled intensity for Nardi’s 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted twice, February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Belcanto 2021, Castellina

A beautiful song indeed and so a Chianti Classico appropriately named delivers a thing of vintage beauty. Proficiently perfumed, spices piquing on the palate and strategically structured to create a wholly reasoned and seasoned sangiovese. The “other” varieties, whatever they may be and comprising 10 percent do right and well by this fine 2021. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico Casanuova Di Nittardi DOCG “Vigna Doghessa” 2021, Castellina

Campione: Single vineyard or cru example and a sample with the uncanny aromas resembling anise or black liquorice. No missing that as distinct as it gets and this despite the reductive nature of the wine. Needs several years to unwind. Not the finest tank or barrel sample drawn but there is some idea where this is gong. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo and colorino from the warm vintage down in quantity due to the April frosts, a year-plus spent in tonneaux followed by six months in bottle before release. That quantity was two-thirds of a normal production and concentration is surely above the norm in this 2021. Great acidity, highest level of the stuff and the fruit is ever-bearing ripe on the nose while tannins are overtly grippy and the wine needs another year in bottle to truly show its stuff. That said this will surely be the finest Annata from San Fabiano Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. February 2023 and February 2024

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Castellina vineyards primarily west of the village in a gully shaped like a half-pipe amphitheatre, an amazing Chianti Classico microclimate that gives a special purpose to Tenute Squarcialupi’s sangiovese. Add in the next generation ideas of Cosimo Bojola and the torch passing is in transition. This is the classic, clean and traditional Annata that carries the stamp of Tommaso Bojola but in 2021 the connection with son Cosimo’s winemaking wisdom is closer than ever before. Tenute Squarcialupi 2021 Annata stands up linear, vertical and to be counted. It should not be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Spices mark the aromatics, pique the senses, draw in the olfactory and take the stage. A force upon the palate, more spice circling through mouthfeel and some black cherry bitters clasp the finish. Traditional and serviceable to vintage. Last tasted February 2024

A reminder that the Ruspoli were a high aristocratic family from Rome though originally from Florence. The estate is co-owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and managed by Giulio Ruspoli since 1989. The 2021 Annata Classico is in fine shape, still chalky of tannins in the midst of its resolution and while it drinks well now (with some air), there are surely two to three years left for ongoing pleasure. Can’t see the fruit dissipating until late in 2026. Tasted January 2024

There are many, not all mind you but a great number of 2021 Chianti Classico in delivery of this silken, glycerol and so very modern character. That and a firm grip with high level acidity captured. A big wine this time from Lilliano, stylish, chic and strutting. Fruit set and connectivity are well aggregated though this won’t be one to age indefinitely. Drink in the near term. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cosimo and Tomasso Bojola – Tenuta Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

“L’Alta” Annata for Squarcialupi is this amphora indiction of indication that is simply the brainchild of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola. Connected in a most familial way to the other Classico but texture and mouthfeel are altered, transformed and transmogrified in the most religious way. The piety is born of sangiovese passion, to see through an ulterior if respectfully concurrent lens and the result is something emphatically restrained. Brilliance of red fruit purity with an underlying earthiness and brightness that supports the textural movements. The palate is aroused and the senses are piqued. Impossible to look or taste away. Last tasted February 2024

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Tommaso Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Indelibly stamped Carpineta style while so very fresh for 2021, truly bright of great breaths of Castelnuovo Berardenga air. Aged in tonneaux after cement fermentation and to say this was judged with fine precision would be paying close attention to Gioia Crest’s acumen and always consistent deft touch. Spot on for 2021 in so many respects. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wow the energy from 2021 Carpineta Fontalpino is off the charts, ergo there is this wide open sensation from Castelnuovo Berardenga that will not be denied. Fruit swells and impresses with its gingered-crimson beauty and the advances of egress by structural demand. While too youthful and awkward for all parts to hook up they will, in time, for all the right reasons and with zero regret. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big production of quality across the board, of fruit layered in a thousand ways, all working together for the most solid and qualitative expression of 100 percent sangiovese. Proper, correct and professional. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi – Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: High-toned, lifted, Alberese directed, sauvage of aromatics on display. A nosing of volatile compounds which are often part of the sample experience and one not wholly indicative of what the settled and cleaned-up finished wine will be. Losi’s sangiovese are exceptional for Castelnuovo Berardenga and this gives little insight into what they can be. Tasted February 2024

Nicely settling in 2021 Annata from Arceno, compressing and compacting as it plays upon the palate, though underneath both acids and tannins continue to work their magic. These recent sangiovese (with 15 percent softening merlot) have found their rightful place on the Castelnuovo Beradenga spectrum. They are as clean, modern and generous as they come. Last tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A vintage for which merlot at 15 per cent does wonders to install calm and roundness into San Gusmé sangiovese of dusty, drifty and instigative tannin. There is a swirl of red to purple berry liqueur in this high glycerol content of an Annata to take Castelnuovo Berardenga into another stylistic and one not often reached. Modernized, renovated and refurbished. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The traditional estate blend, with canaiolo, colorino and ciliegiolo to compliment sangiovese. Two to three weeks of maceration, at the longer end from 2021 and for Gaiole this is just so Monti relatable with just about a 10 percent accent by Vagliagli within Castelnuovo Berardenga. Fine acidity for this Classico that hints at though stays quite clear of balsamico. Certified organic by Delineat, a private agro-forestry network now recognized by higher powers. The discipline includes solar work, carbon neutral footprint and lower levels of copper usage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2021, Gaiole

Bertinga’s is expressly Gaiole, verdant of its greens and clearly an expression off of rocky soils. You sense the land in the freshness and clarity of the sangiovese. Truly crispy and crunchy, mineral and tannin streaking simultaneously in parallel lines and length unrelenting for as long as the palate would wish to keep tasting the wine. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2021, Gaiole

Only sangiovese and about as obvious as a Gaiole UGA produced example as could ever be. The mix of dried herbals and forest brush, über savoury elements and drying tannins all add up to the tight and taut sort of Annata Classico so many know well. This must be cellared for a year our two before flesh and fruit pulpiness can be coaxed out of the structured shell. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casa Al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Closed and tart, tannins very much in the way and an awkwardness at this early stage. A must return no sooner than one year forward. Indicative of the perils of showing cask samples instead of finished wines. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Real Monti in Chianti fixture within the Gaiole UGA with 2021 measuring 95 percent sangiovese, (4%) malvasia nera and (1) colorino. Noticeably reductive, intensity of focus and a Monti verdant quality captured to express terroir and also nature. Sifted softness owning the palate but also piques of spice and endemic character. Clearly a step up in quality and complexity for this truly historical estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

While the wines are really intense with extreme concentration there is some current difficulty to see them as pleasing. They remain a bit closed, especially on the nose but the potential for aging is great. Though it had been that way for some there were not great frost problems, Not just aromatic intensity but spice and attack on the palate, This strikes as something a bit difficult to drink at this time but the structure is surely impressive. This is Annata that would be Gran Selezione for at the very minimum another 150 estates. Last tasted February 2024

Extreme youth for a Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Annata and while this is a barrel sample truth is Luca Martini di Cigala’s offers up more fodder for assessment than many. This will be a most important vintage for two reasons. The first is quality and the second a matter of education, a view to master interpreter taking water (of Gaiole) and transforming it into wine. Not just Gaiole but a little peninsula between the arms of Vagiagli and Castelnuovo Berardenga on a promontory specific to San Giusto. Fine lines, angles and waves continually sweeping make this a most impressive Annata and one to savour for the next 15 years. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The work of Bruno Mazzoni whose maternal grandfather was producing wine here in Gaiole in the 1970s. Mazzoni started tarted in 2006 wth a rebuilding of the cellar, first produced Chianti Classico in 2012, but waited a few years to begin selling the wines. His 2021 is a new and very youthful vintage made by winemaker Maurizio Longi for a Chianti Classico that shows off the true character and nature of Gaiole sangiovese. Tension and yet a transparency because it’s a bit lighter (than say 2019 or 2016) but the potential for aging here is great. Crunchy and crisp, a wine you can grip between the teeth and bite down, then finishing with piques of energy and spice. This is a fine wine of purpose. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2021, Gaiole

Today Tenuta Perano has a distinct advantage and that is elevation. Ten years ago that would not have been said but 550m is no longer considered a cold altitude and so critics and consumers alike should no longer dismiss this place. At Perano the sangiovese matures on both ripeness fronts and does so at a markedly reduced crop per plant. Results are more than simply a matter and meter of concentration. Lamberto Frescobaldi notes how the Chianti Classico from this part of Gaiole are those of “severity and specificity, and it can be tasted in the wines.” It comes from agriculture and can’t be missed. That is if the winemaking is expressed with humility. The verdancy and freshness by elevation are Gaiole and they foil the substantial elements, namely fruit and tannin. All of this is raised to the highest degree in the Annata 2021. “Especially when the plantings are on cooler sites but you really have to be careful, to push the harvest later.” The conclusions are captured acidity and a lovely expression on the nose. “You may not like sangiovese,” concludes Frescobaldi, “but you will always be intrigued by it.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted December 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino of a deep Chianti Classico hue that Marco Ricasoli explains “is fixed by the Alberese. It’s the calcium in the limestone that really helps this process.” So different than sangiovese coming from Macigno (as a general rule) yet here the colour is full and opaque. Fresh vintage, substantial fruit, quantity high, all things a winemaker wants from Chianti Classico. Purity of aromas, linear of style, stony moments from start to finish. Just beginning to open up and really quite salty. Will surely see this last through the decade in a nearly primary state. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Surprising grip and structure here from Rocca di Montegrossi’s 2021 Annata, well not exactly shocking but this is a vintage wine quite far from readying towards release. Tannins are fine chained, grained, unbreakable and of a saltiness really connecting the mineral dots of this wine. Some canaiolo and colorino bring added seasoning and so sapidity is a thing. Crunchy for Gaiole and less herbaceous than most. Should begin to open in 18 months or so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2021, Greve

Oxidative and a touch cooked in spite of acidity running high. Ample if decent fruit quality though it will travel quickly to where it needs to go. Drink as soon as possible. Tasted February 2024

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Few (if any?) Chianti Classico sangiovese are augmented by the five percent mix of canaiolo and the rare canina nera, the latter of which has not been held with the greatest of reputation. Well, not since its popularity in the Middle Ages. Oft considered “a poor quality black grape that gives a terrible red wine with a dry and light flavour,” nevertheless here finding a way to elicit a positive effect. Winemaker Tim Manning has found the apex of excellence where fruit and acidity with that fineness of reduced sweet balsamic all meet and create a fine Chianti Classico 2021. Fine work no doubt. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2021, Greve

The three vineyards refer to Terreno’s Homefront Greve, across the ridge’s rift at Solano (also in Greve) and finally Montefioralle. This mix of three soils which includes Monte Morello, Pietraforte and Alberese makes for one of those Chianti Classico so well-rounded and thrice fortified. The palate senses three layers of stone bled sangiovese inter-connected yet here the air breezes through each and lifts it all together. Brava Sofia. You’ve found and created an ideal 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Torraccia Di Presura Chianti Classico DOCG Il Tarocco 2021, Greve

Big fruitful sangiovese from Torraccia di Presura, rich and suave, clean as a wet sponge wiping chalk off a blackboard which feels apropos because this is quite opaque and pitchy Classico. Ever so smouldering and shadowy swarthiness is ideal to break up the textural silkiness and remind us that sangiovese from 2021 and Greve is want to keep us on our tasting toes. This has much to give and give it will for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

The vintage is surely part of the equation but it’s almost impossible to believe that Lamole has come to this exquisite place. Perfumes as always present but tannins so very fine not just because of the sandstone but due to the maturity of the vines and the maker. Last tasted February 2024

Pure macigno (sandstone) terroir on terraces fully surrounded by woods and what is most essential in Filetta is the perfume that just has to come from Lamole. From 2021 a most proficient and promising one, an effortless exhale and a seamless transition to mimicry upon the palate. Well structured, so subtly chalky and a succulence meeting exuberance that is as much vintage as it is place. Freshness meeting concentration at the highest level. A complete vintage, needing not be compared to any other. We’ll think in these kinds of terms seven to 10 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Pastrolo 2021, Lamole

The newest (along with San Leolino) of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, from Lamole and a vineyard with unique geology, that being Macigno di Marne, a.k.a marine sandstone. Youthful and the oak flavours still act as a flannel blanket over the fruit but insists Giovanni Manetti, “it remains a question of time.” Second vintage of this label and destined to be a Gran Selezione when time, commissioned grants and the realization of a plan all come together in collective fruition. Average planting was back in the late 1970s with newer plantations going in. There were some mixed varieties, including canaiolo, trebbiano, malvasia and colorino. Meanwhile this is sangiovese, grippy, firm, austere and as they say, molto profumato. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2021, Lamole

Aged only in concrete, “The sangiovese just to show the Lamole terroir,” tells Susanna. “The vineyards at the top do this best.” Which means this deserves to be on the label, no matter the appellative level. No appropriation here, just heritage. The perfume is the crux and heart of this matter. Acidity too, running through like a fast moving stream over pebbles, all of which are felt across the palate. Just ideal freshness, “the beauty of the simplicity,” adds Susanna. So pure. Last tasted February 2024

From the highest vineyard between 600 and 630m for a varietal sangiovese that separates itself from Olinto because that label holds 20 percent merlot, though 2021 will be the last vintage. From what Susann Grassi calls the “crispy” vintage” which translates as freshness incarnate and a crunchiness to the seriously spot on pure red fruit. This is so precise and the Lamole perfume exudes out of every pore. Only see concrete and at Annata level for Lamole that is the exact and proper thing to do. Brilliant. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Jurji Fiore e Figlia

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Puntodavista 2021, Lamole

All of Jurji Fiore’s cru wines are vinified in the same way, that being 18 months in Burgundian barriques, 30 percent new. Vines are 50-60 years old so surely not 100 percent sangiovese near to Grospoli. A field blend from a vineyard that Jurji has been renting for 30 years. His next gen daughter Sara smells chiodo di garofano which is, but is not clove, either way its a spice from a dried flower seed that scents out from this Annata. The palate is also wild and leaping with a moment of swarthiness yet is quite perfectly clean for top shelf, fresh and exciting sangiovese. As fine an Annata as there can be and so perfectly expressive of modern Lamole’s potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Nonloso 2021, Lamole

The only cru that’s for sure 100 percent sangiovese because it comes from 20 year-old vines and is owned by the same farmer as Puntodavista in the Grospoli area. Lamole range, 18 months in three sizes of Bourgogne barrels, 30 percent new. The darkest and most intense because of recent clones playing a prominent role as compared to the others, also because those are field blends and representative of the traditional ways of the blending past. Same wood and timing but everything is elevated here, strung up inside a casing of acidity and an austerity of tannins. A sangiovese that needs time, to settle, for subsequent vintages to grow up, mature and join the balance that both Porcacciamiseria and Puntodavista already show. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Podere Castellinuzza – Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

Upwards elevation even for Lamole, here between 550 and 600m on two exposures, one to the east and one to the north. In this sense we are looking at the cooler meeting higher sector and so expect a different, more evergreen type of savour to exaggerate the Lamole perfume in a wholly other way. Freshness incarnate, no wood, only cement aging for 20 months and a true authenticity about the expression. Really pure, if you appreciate the way. Classic, naked Lamole Classico. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With La Famiglia Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano, Greve

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

For Verrazzano a complicated and in the end balanced vintage but who could have forecasted the restrained power and elegance. A 100 percent sangiovese vintage and one of somewhat shortened vindication to capture the grace and especially acidity of the vintage. A bit of maceration that hints at carbonic but no fizzy pulse. Almost a spicy sensation on the palate but really a matter of total energy. Bravo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Chianti Classico 2021 is an example of that rare occasion when savoury, or what so many like to refer to as balsamico richness defines sangiovese. In this case an Annata of layered red citrus fruit pulled from a plethora of estate Greve-Montefioralle sources, including several vineyards trained to Alberello. A heightened aromatic example for the vintage, balanced and delicate. Low quantity and highest of quality. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Altolà 2021, Montefioralle

Altolà, high elevation but from another UGA over there (that being across the valley in Montefioralle), but also a definition for the phrase “stop right there, at attention.” Another Villages wine but the paradox here is how the vineyard was in Panzano and after the UGA was created it fell under the auspices of Montefioralle. Clay soil with Pietraforte so very typically Panzano, darker of colour, fleshy, but with a fire touch. Closer to Nonloso than any of the other Lamole wines but here you have an old vineyard with other red varieties in the field mix. This is an incredible mix of the two, fleshy and rich yet lifted and elevated of incredibly sweet acids. Wow for a first vintage and so one can only imagine what’s to come. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Maurizio Brogioni Winery Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Just a healthy splash of early ripening merlot softens and sweetens the Montefioralle sangiovese for a clean, technically sound and in its finest moments, also soulful Chianti Classico. Plenty of barrel involved, creating a resinous and soya sauced effect but fruit is bold, strong and able to handle the wood. Works out in the end though caramelization is coming soon. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Montefioralle wines

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Some heat in the ’21 perfumes but also a spice cupboard of exotics sifted into a masala as seasoning for seriously ripe sangiovese fruit. The six plus four percent of canaiolo and colorino are not to be forgotten because like the spices they are stirred and integrated so very well for a fully emulsified Annata. There is some lift and then piques of volatility which add to the warmth and the mystique. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Crispy sangiovese with a soft middle provided by five percent merlot and a fine example of suave 2021 Montefioralle Chianti Classico. Rich and the sort you can sink your teeth into for pairing with proteins of equal steading. ‘Tis a healthy and substantial Annata no matter how you slice, braise or roast it. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Bonafide 2021 and exemplary varietal sangiovese from Panzano’s Cafaggio if one of the fleshier, riper and more glycerol examples. Tart and intense, acidity equal and opposing that fruit to carry forward all the way through. No hole or mid-palate fatigue but all in, all the time. A drink now and soon Annata with swagger and style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2021, Panzano

Small production of the etichetta label called Burrone, a gulch or a gully and the feel of gravity’s pull compresses to see this 100 percent sangiovese lay low in that depression. Not weighty per se but yet set in the lower reaches of brightness and energy. It’s a style for one that will age for a few years still. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Always tasted second to Filetta and though perhaps 10 years ago that may have been the opposite the change has come. Truly salty veins running through the flesh of Panzano, with thanks to the mix of schist, calcaire and the great power of Pietraforte stone. Hold this 2021 for another year. Last tasted February 2024

Like the Filetta di Lamole, the Panzano Classico was also bottled quite recently and is to be released in the Spring of 2024. A full on expression of the Classico for Fontodi from a vintage of everything; substantial fruit, quality and quantity, acidity at peak, generosity and potential. What more does there need to be? About as full and classic as it gets for this stalwart and even just that wee bit of Panzano swarthiness that give these sangiovese their intrinsic and inherent character. Caught with spot on simplicity and poise. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2021, Panzano

A factor of the blue schist makes the call for amphora and if your mind is open and imagination runs loose then believe that the perfumes and flavours are truly connected to the soil. Leathery chew with infiltrate freshness, cake and chalk, tannin and acidity. Spices run amok. Everything captured and preserved, life still laid out long ahead. Just a bit of residual CO2 wards ofd oxidation and allows for lower sulphites usage. Last tasted February 2024

The Chianti Classico that sees amphora, stainless steel and also French wood – but no Slavonian oak. The outlier and if it needs be said, the experimental Annata. That said it has evolved from its IGT (Toscana Centrale) origins and the soils are Pietraforte in this specific micro-climate (a cooler one) from which finer and dustier tannins come away. More about texture in Dino but this is also a bit of a crooner expressive of songs sung from its valley origins. Not a frost zone because it buds later and at harvest time there is the diurnal fluctuation from 30 degrees by day to 10 at night. Great but different acidity from Dino, sweeter but also a balsamic aspect. Unique Classico in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Three terroir collection of Gagliole’s youngest vineyards across their estates, a macro of balancing related to soils built on Alberese, Pietraforte and Galestro. Brings all elements to the table; phenols, dusty savour and a mix of Classico acidities. In this vintage the pick was relatively late (especially in Panzano), as late as October 21 and 22. A management of vineyards leads to a capture of freshness so essential for the Annata level of Chianti Classico. Gagliole gets it in the most croccante way. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Rubiolo is 100 per cent sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

No, 2021 is not readying for the open window. Not yet. The tannins are still chalky and firm, the fruit bright and clean but they still submit to the tight clasp that grips and holds. No lacking for flesh and weight but yes the crisp character is what we are waiting for. Last tasted February 2024

A low (450 quintale or 45,000 kg) production vintage due to April frosts though the quality was very high. Is 2021 the best I ask Iacopo Morganti.“Every time the last one has to be the best one…though 2021 is like 2001. Similar vintage, weather included but there was more production from 2001.” The style is similar, also colour of fruit, elegance, light and ethereal with purposed acidity. “In 2020 the fruit was darker, you feel more oak,” he adds. These ‘21s are typical wines as and for sangiovese. Pure, light and so elegant, bottled on the 21st of September. Hard to find a more amenably front-ended Chianti Classico but the tannins are still somewhat aggressive. Not Riserva in that sense because there is less flesh and body. Still this is a discreetly charming 2021 and a great wine to drink, whenever you feel ready. Aging will be somewhere between six and nine years, give or take and depending on the situation. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

This is truly a preview of the Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2021 because this is the vintage that will be poured at the Chianti Classico Collection held in Florence on February 15th and 16th. When frost struck the area on April 6th and 7th, 2021 Vicky Schmitt-Vitali said “Le Fonti is positioned quite open to the winds so most vineyards fared OK with the frost. Only one small patch protected by trees and bamboo at the bottom of the valley got freeze-burned. The other side of the valley got hit worse so we have to be grateful. Lucarelli (the small village in Radda just below Panzano) is always very cold and our tractor driver lives there and said that his house was minus six the past few nights. All fruit trees burned but his vines had not been out yet so he was lucky.” The result here is a top notch, clean, fresh and harmonious Annata that also happens to be a sangiovese of higher quantity than many out of the vintage. The acids here are just about perfect and the flavours are as enticing as they are diverse. Without a doubt one of the finest Chianti Classico ever made by Guido and Vicky at this appellative level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted January and February 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cosimo and Sebastiano Gericke – Fattoria Rignana, Panzano

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just a small amount of April frost damage happened in the lower part of the vineyards near the Pesa River but the rest of the higher reaches were unscathed and so quantity out of ’21 was fine, while quality ran high. Just stainless and concrete (no wood) for a truly fresh and sustainable Annata. The 15 percent canaiolo adds a dimension of sapidity as balance to what sensations high acid and saline sangiovese are want to deliver. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Beautifully settled sangiovese with that quick sapid kick urged on by five percent canaiolo. A lovely swirl of fresh and clean red fruit, unmistakable glycerol, late arriving acidity and nearly resolved tannin. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Taken from the largest parcel up the hill to the right of the church and no wood involved. Soft and suave, the silkiest Annata imaginable and one that coats the palate with its substantial fruit. Perfume and spice are Raddese, as is acidity, of course. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Intense sangiovese while also drying and tannic with potential to travel far and yet this is certainly not the early beauty of what came from 2020. More so a sangiovese of classicism that must have some time in the bottle before we know what will come. Great length here so there will be a future, that much is guaranteed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Quiet entry, reserved and not exceptionally fruity though a feeling of a place lurks in the shadows. Fresh, bright, clean and high acid. Not particularly fleshy, of lightning red fruit and satisfying. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Pure sangiovese, tiny production, tart, concentrated, verging on syrupy. Intensity of acidity and balsamico, a Radda stylistic magnified and hyperbolized for the world to see. Heart and sangiovese worn on sleeve. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Darker fruit adoration for the vintage owning to Castello di Radda’s south-central location within the UGA and the accumulation is duly noted. Levels of richness and yet this singsong quality that creates waves of fruit in and out of mild structure. Not the grippiest of ‘21s but one to enjoy in the near term. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Classic Colle Bereto Annata, more estate style than Radda which is not a massive shock from the vintage. Clean, crisp and what can be thought upon as crispy, no departure from the UGA in that regard but the precision and clarity is expressly Colle Bereto. Grande, Bernardo Bianchi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

Belvedere Campòli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

As far as bottle quantities are concerned this is a tiny production of Classico sangiovese (with five percent) merlot. One that delivers naturally sweet red fruit and true succulence by way of equally delivered acidity yet without tension due ti never demanding tannin. Ever the slightest cherry bitters that dissipate in fade to finish black. What’s left is purity and grace. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Campione: Limited production, 100 percent sangiovese of San Casciano bones, saltiness and energy. Notable as always for the herbs and verdancy but this edges up in volatility before descending into its tannic well. Taut finish and in need of two years to settle. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

With Federica Capaccioli

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Dramatic and vivid Annata from San Casciano with all the wilds of soil, herbs, brushy plants and florals flying from the glass. The air is filled with orchids, violets, Macchia Mediterraneo, sweet sangiovese, Cassis bled cabernet and sapidity raising canaiolo. Top effort for the UGA with ample vintage personality. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2021, San Casciano

A 2021 and so a well and good finished wine not so long ago put to bottle but still reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if still a challenge to access because of extreme youth. Full disbursement of great potential lays ahead. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Clemente VII 2021, San Casciano

Nicely settled and so a wise decision to pour 2022 for the anteprima. Can’t miss the rye bread toast and verdant streak for a Clemente VII of more substance and rallying cry than many. Professional tannins present in the room are tied by acidity as catalyst and bind. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra Vigneti Branca ready for labelling

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2021, San Casciano

A single vineyard, 100 percent whole bunch, 35 days on skins macerated best parcel (of massal selection planted in 1972) sangiovese that is the first true experiment in the young winemaking lives for Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari. Reminds of the Annata in that transparency, purity and focus are all there but imagine more energy, vibrancy, power, grip and intensified, implosive tannins. And yet, and yet the push here is just a bit overarching because a minor note of green austerity does arrive, however fleeting it may be. Nevertheless this is the summit of the current pinnacle of the duo’s CdS success. Next is to see how they will go next level, because when the going gets “maniaci,” the “maniaci” turn pro. Bottled on April 14th, 2023. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Spicy aromatics lead the way for La Sala’s ’21 Annata, nothing unusual about it, consistent with previous vintages and the estate’s search for aromatics. What separates this vintage is the fulsome and glissade quality gracing the palate that presents more fruit in waves, swells and even this oozing kind of feeling that sangiovese can give. San Casciano gets neither more fruity nor modern in Annata than this. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2021, San Casciano

At this stage the ‘21 has now arrived as the finished wine it was intended to be. Hard to believe how much textural glissade, unction and modernity have accumulated in the wines of San Casciano with this by Mori Concetta right at the top of the list. Aromatically charged and perfumed with viscosity of fruit on the palate and liquid spice. Impressive 2021 from the man. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a compliment of other endemic grapes not only aid and abet but work so properly too create cohesion and define this special Classico from San Casciano. The breakdown of 80 percent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, (5 each) pugnitello and colorino is essential and creates a balanced 2021, of less tension than some but also pure without greens or greys mired in the void. A very successful and textured wine of silk and chalkiness for seven to ten years ahead. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Youthful to a great degree and a reductive vintage for the Monsanto Annata, still frozen in time with the classic località aromatics lurking in the shadows of this wholly structural wine. Always the small percentages of canaiolo an colorino bringing the sapidity and also the energy to sangiovese that feels like it’s always been this way. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

High tonality, glycerin, volatility and perilously up there at the edge of the precipice. There is some Brettanomyces in this 2021, nothing that distracts or detracts with any gravity but it does co-exist with the fruit. Chewy mouthful for varietal sangiovese of warmth and intensity that will improve with age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

“So far 2021 is the one that gives me more pleasure, with more complexity and density, even more than 2021.” Now well into his tenure and so Robin Mugnaini has a pretty keen sense of where he’s at with respect to Chianti Classico. Still 20 percent whole bunch and two moths on skins, to be released in a year and a half. Really clean, fruit at the top of this San Donato in Poggio game and purity as verity. These are powdery tannins trying to liquify and integrate but it really is just a kid. Richer than any that have come before and of a structure that will see this travel for a few years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Celebratory vintage fruit swirl arrives first for Il Poggiolino and then to mind comes the character that is intrinsically perceived as San Donato in Poggio. Of red fruit so amplified you’d think citrus was squeezed, calcareous stone was bled and the mixture reduced to a glissade of syrup. Just a quick note of Brett in the 2021, nothing serious or distracting but there it resides on the back palate. Does not mess with the tannins but there is a peppery warmth at the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four and a half decade tenure at Isole e Olena is this 2021, lower in sangiovese and conversely higher in canaiolo, because he knew the blend needed to up its sapidity game. The canaiolo raises pH and works with the other splashes (including syrah but also vials of mystery) to elaborate and elevate sangiovese’s salted-elemental game. De Marchi has hit the vintage nail on the head with a 2021 that shows its cards but refuses to lay them on the table. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist. He is the whooper swan and you pay close attention to the trumpets of fruit and clicks of acidity. Before too long the sounds will cease because there will be no more tannic threats and so both this 2021 and Paolo will move, embrace change and live on. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another matter for San Donato in Poggio and 2021 is this by Podere La Cappella because there is a sleekness and silken quality to the fruit. This is especially felt in the mouthfeel because the wine simply glides and slides across the palate. You can also feel the merlot in 2021, only 10 percent but so ripe and impressionable. Plenty of sweet and supportive acidity, fineness of tannins and just so much pleasure gifted overall. Not as structured as some recent vintages but seductive for the short to mid term. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Davaz Family – Poggio al Sole, San Donato in Poggio

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Poggio al Sole’s is Chianti Classico Annata aged in large format Stockinger Botti comes from a crossroads where San Donato in Poggio, Panzano plus a distinct profile that also draws from Badia a Passignano add up to one of the territory’s most complex sangiovese. An example with 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo that exhibits both salty and sapid elements for something that moves through many machinations. This is not to say that the extroverted PaS lacks precision because it is in fact finessed and pure, but there is so much going on that at moments its feels like energy running wild. Never thee mind because just another year and a half in bottle will see to all parts settling in as one. What Valentino Davaz calls “the business card,” accounting for half of the production in 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2021, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample from 2021 and this Ghirlanda is brighter, fresher and airier than its predecessor, but the bones and the verticality remain. The lift and high tone elevate a sangiovese that misses and wants for nothing, in fact it is so perfectly comfortable in its pliable if ageless skin. Annata worthy of a long life and treated with this level of respect which is incidentally incredible considering the other levels of Chianti Classic made at Bindi Sergardi. In any case this will quickly become brilliant Chianti Classico at the Annata level. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Indelibly stamped by Vagliagli and impressively consistent Annata from the Gnudi-Angelini family. May seem like a large bottle output at 170,000 but that is nothing compared to what it could be (without frost vintages) and in relation to other truly large production (a.k.a. commercial) wines. Nothing of the sort here but simply pure Chianti Classico softened and made colourful by five percent each merlot and colorino. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Complicità Chianti Classico DOCG Assolo 2021, Vagliagli

A small and protective amount of reduction which helps in dramatic ways because this Vagliagli Annata comes at the palate in waves. Fruit for the most part with underlying spice but do not sleep on the sneaky structure of this Assolo by upstart Complicità. Complicated in the ways of complexity and variegation, aromatically stunning and then intricately woven with flavours and palate textures. A discovery of the highest order. Terrific work for sangiovese that feels like sangiovese born of a family and their land. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole, Vagliagli

Dievole Chianti Classico Docg 2021, Vagliagli

Classic croccante sangiovese, rich if also herbal and brushy, a liqueur of red fruit that crunches when bitten. “The soul of Dievole,” says Stefano Capurso, representing the 700 hectares and 10-15 percent of that being vineyards predominated by sangiovese. Fermented in conical concrete (75 hL) and aged in botti only, no tonneaux nor barriques neither. A mix of all the terroirs and a philosophy led by agronomist Lorenzo Bertini that places soils microbes for maximum vineyard health to make sure roots dip deep for stones in touch with water. The land is a geological mix of Monte Morello and Macigno del Chianti (Sandstone), of clay, Alberese and Pietraforte. A combination of everything and the result is one of the most well-rounded Annata to be found anywhere in the territory. Do not hesitate because these sweet tannins and refreshing spice make 2021 ready for action. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Heady perfume so very Vagliagli but also the extras that five percent each colorino and merlot are want to deliver and infiltrate the sangiovese. Crunchy exterior and conversely chewy inside, like liquorice or al dente spaghetti with moderate structure for a few years of life though the best months have already begun. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Noting a change in direction with this juicy and fruit-centric sangiovese with five percent canaiolo that lowers the salty factor that is always a consistent part of Sparviero’s character. Wood not much of a factor to allow the freshness to shine, even out of a warm vintage that in many cases produced very dense wines. Not here and the final clocking is 13.5 percent alcohol. Last tasted May 2024

Canaiolo is used to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Baldoni Villa Rosa 2020, Castellina

Ribaldoni is the name of the river and thus the vineyard laid below and around Villa Rosa. A sangiovese expression of its own, combining the scorrevole of SdF and the croccante of Primecolle. An ideal and balanced mix in what is the most layered and combinative of the three, powerful yet restrained and still in a place that feels a few years away from settling in. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2024

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Borratella Chianti Classico DOCG Insuella 2020, Gaiole

Quite upfront fruit, naturally sweet and teeming with red berries, nary a moment of tart or tang, soft and getable. The five percent cabernet sauvignon so very ripe in 2020 may have played a bigger part than its addendum might have suggested but there is no shortage of ease and playfulness in this ready to go Annata. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

The 2020 Perano has arrived, showing know what it was once shy to do. Perano is at its juiciest and gifted height, crunchy of fruit still fresh, poised and in control, now into the best the two three years to express its Gaiole character. Last tasted February 2024

You can always feel the white soil of Tenuta Perano and nowhere more so than from Annata level Chianti Classico. More than sangiovese with 10 percent merlot and (5) cabernet sauvignon for a silky smooth 2020 that wants to share its impression as early as it can. Cool and sappy, easy to understand and professional as they come. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

Notable Brett for Castellinuzza 2020, perhaps a sluggish transition to malolactic being the catalyst to seeing the microbes creep in. Good glycerol in the fruit, rich and calming nature noted for the 95 sangiovese with (3) canaiolo and (2) malvasia nera. Lamole perfume surely captured and so will deliver great appeal to those who can handle a little bit of naturally winking truth in their Chianti Classico. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

From the lower vineyard which means old vines at 550m, inclusive of a majority that are vines dating back to 1965. A mix of sangiovese (90 percent) and canaiolo, though there are some white grapes growing in the vineyard. Aging 50-50 in concrete and 500L French tonneaux for one year. “A very important vintage for us because it was the 400th anniversary of my family,” says Susanna Grassi, but no celebrations due to Covid, just a special bottling as Gran Selezione instead. Bouquet, acidity and though “lower” elevation for Lamole this is sangiovese that more than easily and credibly maintains the origins of Lamole. The bigger divergence here is vine age and so aromatic concentration is heightened, not necessarily freshness and brightness because this feels like a Lamole of more depth and breadth, but let’s be real. As fas as Chianti Classico are concerned this is about as fresh and crispy as it gets. Last tasted February 2024

The adage must always be repeated. The perfume of Lamole is omnipresent, all-pervasive and impossible to separate from the wines themselves. How and why? The answer is difficult to articulate though it is surely a response to the Macigno soils and the climate circulating in the UGA’s amphitheatre. Stand anywhere on the ring road between Casole and Lamole village and you may just feel as though you are in a rainforest. The sandstones mixed with calcareous rock just has to mean mineral transferral onto fruit that in turn scents floral. Not in the classic bouquet of flowers sense but as an example it is Terra di Lamole by Susanna Grassi that makes all this happen. Behold a sangiovese born in the shadow of the Monti del Chianti that shines in its own special way. Terra di Lamole – the land of the UGA, definite, elegant and full of grace. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Casaloste is Panzano but truth is Casaloste is Casaloste. The oenological and passion project work of Giovanni d’Orsi, self made, self-imposed and critically honest if also loving to work with sangiovese. The 10 percent merlot softens the seriousness and trenchant intention of Chianti Classico that as a wine can’t help but express the extensiveness and also the simple truth that is 2020. Bigger, darker and more intrinsic tannic value but truth is truth and Casaloste’s lets in the light. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The uncanny note of chocolate mint is there, unequivocally and especially upon the palate. On the nose as well as a reurn to the first addendum to the serious glycerols that thicken and silken the palate. There are many who will see and crave the seduction while others will feel too much wood. In the end and several years forward neither will matter and the wine will deliver a fine sense of harmony. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Tasted side by each with the 2019 there can be no missing the darker hue, stronger fruit and bolder notes sung by Vecchie Terre di Montefili’s 2020. It’s the vintage and also Panzano that create the unavoidable, each as forceful and imposing as the other. Then agin the trilogy of terroir, weather and place are intrinsic to the sangiovese that arrive each and every season. Big wine, tannins equal to the task and yet evolution will happen faster than 2019. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Cement vat spontaneous fermentation (always done this way, manufactured in Val d’Arno, now 53 years old) for 100 percent sangiovese. Warm summer vintage but for Caparsa at 400-450m still very fresh and well, classic. In a perfect window of opportunity at this moment. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The 2020 Classico is currently on the market while the soon to be bottled ’21 shows as an anteprima though that vintage, as firm and grippy as it may be will entice and delight sooner than most. In fact the 2020 is in nearly the same kind of place and so this tells us that. Monterinaldi’s position in Radda and microclimate produce wines like no other. Their wines move like the turtle, aging low and slow, even if they showed up ready and willing from the start. For Monterinaldi there was no hydric stress and the growing season delivered a consistent and constant five month phenolic development. This was a 35-40 day skin-contract maturation without worrying about extracting green tannins. Only six to seven months of aging in wood and this all adds up to doing things differently than many neighbours and other UGA positioned estates. Last tasted February 2023

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda location. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it can’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a candidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Cortedomina Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Lean, angular and tart, middle palate filled in and softened by 20 percent merlot. Not really tannic per se and easily ready for consumption. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Every year we take the fruit from the three vineyards and say, which one is the most Radda,” says Giacomo Castellani. Not necessarily the best one but the one that is most representative of Radda. The plots are Ginestraia and Olmo marked by stony terroirs of Pietraforte, Macigno and Pietraforte again, highest, mid-slope and in the newest vineyard. Lithe, transparent, ethereal and so floral. A sangiovese in which the sweet natural fruit and also acidity are seamless, together, one in the same. Don’t come here looking for musculature or verticality – that is not this Annata. This is the sangiovese you want to have a second glass and truthfully the bottle will easily disappear. Last tasted May 2024

Raddese from the start, acids singing, zinging and slinging the lightning red fruit to the fore. In youth clearly dusty while a clarity and purity exists in a vacuum where lightness mixed with barrel make for a truly spirited Chianti Classico. Expressly and dutifully Radda sangiovese. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A blend of parcels, many 25-30 years of age. Was a great spring during lockdown, long, sunny, pure through April and then suddenly cool and rainy in May. Then what followed was a variable, unsteady summer. Not the most equilibrium with late September cold and rain. Some difficulty in the selection because of differences in ripening. What does all that adversity, especially as it pertains to Radda add up to? Well, for one thing Roberto Bianchi’s Annata ’21 smells and tastes like Radda, transparent in its openness, cool, herbal and savoury. Truly, expressly, ostensibly and allegedly Radda with sangiovese born and raised in a very specific, high elevation part of Chianti Classico. Definitive, Macigno-stony and age-worthy, if not the fleshiest of them all. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 202o, San Casciano

Big fruit year and a sangiovese with 15 percent merlot (which also happened in 2015 and 2016). Chewy and with some stewed if also drying character that old barriques and the merlot conspired to deliver from a hot and bold vintage. This ’20 is already turning the corner into its next phase. Drink up! Tasted February 2024

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Truly low production for varietal San Donato in Poggio sangiovese and the warmth of 2020 juices the full extraction of blood orange for distinctive Chianti Classico. Pressed for success, macerated to gauge interest with all parts fulsome at the intersect of acid and tannin. Wait six months and drink for two more years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Casa Sola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

The blend is 90 percent sangiovese with (4 each) canaiolo and cabernet sauvignon pus (2) merlot. This mélange of grapes augments sangiovese but you simply can’t take the San Donato in Poggio soil and climate from out of this Annata. Warming and blood orange juiced, as sanguine as they come though neither hearty nor gamey. Crispy sangiovese, tart and high acid, classically styled of tradition and sense of place. San Donato as a UGA is the ace up the sleeve and time is needed to integrate the grapes and structural parts. Great strides taken from this estate. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Clearly and in this regard also distinctly San Donato in Poggio if edging towards the wood spiced and herbal side of the UGA. Yet another blood orange vintage and this is more than merely a trend, here a 2020 well macerated seemingly for two plus weeks or more to come away with this grand textural wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

The Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG (Older Vintages)

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Imagine the baseline and then the ceiling for Chianti Classico. Draw from as much experience as you have and then extrapolate towards the greatest of a vintage’s potential. Then put your nose into Castell’In Villa 2019. Everything rises to the surface and presents itself to be noticed. Note the calm, the precision and finesse, reach out and touch the fruit, recognize the quality and fitness of the acidity and realize potential, compounded in understanding after allowing the purity of the sangiovese to rest upon the palate. As near perfect and essential as it gets for Castell’In Villa without boundaries or limitations. Last tasted February 2024

Leave to Castell’in Villa to do not just the right thing but carry the weight of necessity and hold back Annata to a point where it can be tasted and assessed with the respect it so richly deserves. Though this Castelnuovo Berardenga estate and their historic vineyards are equipped to create magic in the most challenging of vintages, well when a season like 2019 is gifted then the magic turns to the supernatural. Fruit is everything, as it must be and the aspects of climate, fermentation, maturation and all the accruements of seasoning add up to a speciality as no other Chianti Classico will create. This is a very special vintage of Castell’in Villa and one to rival any Riserva or Gran Selezione made in this vintage. Will live in infamy. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted February 2023

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2019, Lamole

Surprisingly tannic, still in a state of structural fortification. Though the predominance of crispy sangiovese is what occupies our thoughts the rocks and stones are by far the strongest players. Last tasted February 2024

The top “tier” Annata in Susanna Fabbri’s range is this main terroir sangiovese, the Terre di Lamole. Lamole at heights, in hyperbole, expressive and of course, so very perfumed. A veritable potpourri of Macigno del Chianti and all the florals imagined, tied up in one red petalled, native herb and mineral bouquet. Grace and understated charm, seamlessness and the sort of structure that build and builds but does so without mortar between the stones. Natural and beautiful. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted March 2022

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Can’t miss the terroir, bosco and micro-climate in the 2019 varietal sangiovese by Vecchie Terre di Montefili. In fact the troika comes to one decision, effect and result for a verdant and silken Annata that speaks to the ease and fullness of the vintage. Just that correct amount of swarthiness and verdancy, an evergreen streak and fineness of acidity that are purely and unequivocally Panzano. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2019, San Casciano

Showing some maturity or rather this sangiovese has matured to a point where the producer is comfortable with its release. May be 2019 and so not a true 2024 anteprima but instead an Annata that has shed its shackles to now be expressive of its San Casciano origins. Balanced in mid weight, tart blood orange juiciness and no lack for shilling a high level of continuing grip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Casanova 2019, Vagliagli

The first of three sangiovese under the auspices of the cru project to feature the sensitivity of the variety to different soil conditions. The sensation gained on the nose from Casanova is something very red, part fruit and part mineral from a Macigno soil. Makes for a gentle, restrained and finessed Classico, “reminding me of the sangiovese made in the 1980s” remembers Stefano Capurso. Blood orange bled from clay, linear as a factor of the stones in the small 2.5 hectare sandy vineyard and easy in terms of concentration. A lovely mid-term ager as a pure cru-focused sangiovese. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Catignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a round hill of 20 hectares facing full south, direction Siena. Calcareous Monte Morello soils with the clays and a windy place. A place of slow maturation where warm days and cold nights alternate. A different expression especially as compared to the Casanova, bigger, broader and yet spicy, of dusty and balsamico acidity. Plenty of lift here and it announces itself with a much noisier voice while the palate is richer and the texture thickens upon the palate. Second vintage of this cru, just about ready to go with only six months or so needed to get there. A bit austere, more so than Casanova and Petrignano. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a vineyard at 350m, fully on Monte Morello formations, dual hillside site with Alberese more to one side and so there are two sides of this wine. Made in the same way as the other two Classico cru, from oak tanks to botti. Of the three cru wines it is Petrignano that holds the most concentration beautifully offset by high ranking and very sweet acidity. It feels like Petrignano is the one to pour for a consumer who wants these layers of complexity and richness. Holding its form quite well. Last tasted February 2024

Petrignano is what Dievole assigns the lede of “a nuova voce del Chianti Classico,” a new voice, especially at the Annata level. The Gran Selezione is from Vigna Sessina and here 2019 is spoken through the younger vines and more precocious if not fully yet understood vineyard of Petrignano. Certainly a fresh and savoury Annata, sour citrus chalky and very primary. Almost nouveau but without the carbonic yet still this is as light and potentially sumptuous as it gets. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted February 2022

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Reductive and conversely yet also complementary traditional, of mature fruit subjected to early oxidation as a protection against hasty advancement and then retreat. Bucciarelli’s pure sangiovese does in fact exist in a vacuum with elevated volatile acidity and a modicum of Brettnomyces though neither push the limits of danger. No in fact this 2018 is Chianti Classico so well structured to defy age and see aging as a necessary condition for what it shall become. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Third vintage for Sophie Conte’s Annata from a wet and challenging year because of clement weather and disease pressure. Cement ferment followed by barriques (already quite old) and also tonneaux, for a year. Leaner yet just about as rigid still, as noted in the 2016. Consistent with 2016, wood on top, toasty, of orange skin, citrus and wet stone that sangiovese will show in certain vintages. Still pretty tannic and again, really curious to taste when you consider how much will have been learned and changed by the time Sophie Conte gets to 2022. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Not the greatest of vintages, especially at harvest and Dario Faccin has known this, but his opinion has changed after a few years of aging. Like 1996 (especially compared to 1997) and namely because the tannins are persistently fresh. A slowed down maturation in September and into October is the reason. Yes it was warm every day and yet cold at night and yes there is some maturity to the fruit but the tannins are so refined. Aging in big botti has only helped these beautifully soft tannic sensations gained on the palate. Acidity kept and balance afforded for a great result. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage of pure sapidity for Carobbio and Panzano, namely because of the late warm vintage conditions mediated by cold nights but mainly due to humidity through mineral accumulation in Galestro soils with shards here and there of Calcari and Pietraforte. Length is Cariobbio length, seemingly never-ending, glorious and rising. Grande Dario and team, this 2018 will live as long as any Annata in the territory. Vintages from the 80s, 90s and also those early in this decade have paved the road for an Annata like 2018 to live a very long life. Tasted May 2023

Then comes along Carobbio with a wine older than almost any other Annata in the collection and yet even from 2018 this sangiovese has yet to hit its stride. Dark fruit of baritone voice and depth puts this in unique territory and it would seem the grapes were mainly picked later, after the two day heat spike at September’s culmination. That said low nighttime temps kept the acidity and so 2018 from Carobbio should age as well as any Riserva and many Gran Selezione from the vintage. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, San Casciano

High level aromatic vintage for La Querce Seconda’s Annata 2018 because of heat accumulated through many days of temperature adding up to this. Major lift and smoulder but also a small percentage of Brettanomyces. A bit distracting to be honest but all is fair in love, war, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Castellina

First real vintage for Sophie Conte, no temperature control and longer (20 day) fermentation than what’s happening today. Cement, followed by barriques (already quite old). Holding court and hanging well though you can feel the wood. The notes are balsamico, liquorice and chewy leathery fruit and the wine is clearly more interesting now than it would have been in its early years. “Pouring you this wine is like showing you a picture of myself in high school. It’s a little bit weird,” says Sophie. Regardless the DNA of sangiovese grown at Tregole is what the picture shows. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2016, Greve

Bruised and oxidized. Tasted February 2024

I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2012, Lamole

“What I remember is a nice harvest in Lamole,” says Susanna Grassi. “A regular vintage.” Aromas are mature and the palate is über fresh, full of energy, revitalizing for sipping and also expressive of the Lamole perfume. Cool, ethereal, ever so slightly salt-inflected and purposefully proper. An expression of culture and the story of old vines in an old vineyard. With a wedge of aged Parmigiana from a special breed of cow there become this exotic mix of acids and cultures that bring it all together. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOC 1969

DOC World: The annunciation of a document eventually to become the DOC; the Chianti wine famous worldwide. Just 356 years after the height of Niccola Capponi’s life and a time when the “Modo di Fare Il Vino Alla Franzese” was the winemaking order of that day in Firenze. Sixty years after Torquato Guarducci and the announcement that quality mattered little for merchants, so long as the bottle said “Chianti.” Piero Capponi was at the lead of changing this and was one of the 33 producers that created the consortium in 1924. Eight years later in 1932 the “Classico” is added, to distinguish the original Chianti delimited by Cosimo de Medici in 1716. Full on mushroom consomée at this stage 55 years after vintage, a porcini broth with drops of citrus and so fully balsamico-forest floor. Smells like chestnuts and yes the 50,000 bottles produced were fermented in chestnut wood vats. Can’t miss the linger of natural sweetness. As for the grapes involved, well that’s open to interpretation, especially considering some various red and white grapes were surely involved, including those from vines put in that had recently arrived from the Florence nursery without labels (due to flooding). Never mind because the acidity and persistence without absolute death is so bloody impressive for a Chianti Classico from 1969. Tasted May 2024

Dinner at Fizzano, Rocca delle Macíe

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Though 2022 is such a fine, amenable and drinkable vintage and 2021 more compacted in so many ways – well when you make a cuvée of all your Castellina estates and choose only the finer grapes – you can make a very proper and promising Riserva. Cool, just a kiss of wood and saltiness, violets and a bit of rounding softness from cabernet sauvignon. Sees 12-14 months in barrel and comes away rich, nurturing and silky smooth. For now and a few years but not much longer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Bottled in November of 2023 and slated for imminent release. Floral yet reserved aromas and unequivocally sangiovese. La Riserva ages in (old) tonneaux of 700L and barriques. More brightness and freshness than the lion’s share of this appellative level in Chianti Classico, crisp and crunchy for Riserva but ultimately a matter of a specific vineyard, planted in 1985, as in the lower part beneath the younger vines. The warmest location where Ginestra blooms earlier and the fruit is saucy, a salsa of sangiovese, “sucoso,” the juices running from rare roast beef. But also blood orange and so a pulpy sensation. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Sample from Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano but my goodness what freshness, spirit and energy from Riserva 2021. Flies from the glass and grabs the senses by the tips and will not let go. Substantial does not begin to describe the feeling or do justice to assessment from what will surely become one of Luca Martini di Cigala’s long-lived and essential Le Baròncole to pour and revel in for a decade or two forward. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Also oxidative, lustre lost and energy waning. Hard to taste and assess late on day two of an Anteprima. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Vineyard at Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Purely from Galestro soil planted in 1968, lower down than the Pietraforte soil with five percent canaiolo field blended in the vineyard. Ages in large cask (only Stockinger) for 16 months followed by three in bottle. Almost seems better to compare this to 2021 Retromarcia (committed to memory) than the other ’22 wines because the vintages at Monte Bernardi are so very different. Though this may have shown like a closed stone (a Schmelzer quote) it still would have been more open then the 2020’s and is surely now come further as a result of this vintage’s progression. Generosity and energy, subtle “sfumatore” aromas and flavours here, there, in nooks and crannies, a Macerazione Piedmontese, 45-50 days post fermentation (60 total) on skins. The epitome of scorrevole. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sa’Etta 2021, Panzano

Purely from Pietraforte (sandstone) soil, higher up than the Galestro and while the vineyard houses five percent canaiolo it is not included in the Sa’etta Riserva. Ages another year in bottle, nine months longer than the (Galestro) Riserva. Is this similar to the sister Riserva? The short answer is yes because the long maceration creates the texture and the palate succulence but the tannins are longer chained, shadowy in their aggression and attention but also so, so refined. Bigger and broader sangiovese as Riserva for 2021 though purity begets fineness and then bequeaths potential. Tasted again, February 2024

Sa’Etta the block, planted in 1968. Sa’Etta ’21, well it would be hard not to be seduced and hypnotized by the beauty of this wine. Precision, clarity, focus, purity, style, grace, elegance – all of the above. Sees two years in 3000L Stockinger (Austrian Botti Grande) and comes away in the most vertical way. A mix of substantiality and weightlessness for sangiovese (with five percent canaiolo) so well adjusted to life as the varietal pillars they are, in this historic vineyard, as they are known. Vines as the Stonehenge of Panzano, in appearance and for the timeless Riserva they deliver. Drink 2025–2035. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

The opposite of light and juicy but looking for elegance through aging 16 months in tonneaux for the sangiovese and barriques for the merlot, on average 50 percent new. Outstanding vintage says Barbara Widmer, as opposed to ’20 merely being “good.“ But they are one in the same in many ways, acidity still thriving, fruit full and substantial, tannins very much in charge. True Riserva style, always and seemingly forever. Last tasted April 2024

Brancaia Riserva takes off where Annata leaves off and seems a bit agitated at this early stage. Even with 20 percent merlot there is an uneasiness about the sangiovese and this may not be the best time to seek the truth. Nevertheless the 2021’s lift, heft and breadth indicate a swirl of substance in fruit that precedes structure, while power knows how much it’s in control. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Riserva 2021 does by Albola what ’22 Annata could not but we know that the comparison is simply unfair. Nothing against the next vintage and a sample or just bottled wine is a tough nut to crack but this, this 2021 is a lovely wine. A Radda speciality from a top vineyard of impressive elevation, slope and exposure. The sangiovese it breathes from the high quality, low quantity vintage is equal parts fruit freshness and sweet savour. Acidity follows suit and then softness remains. Drink soon! Drink 2024-2026. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a pure red cherry fruit and simply structured Albola with early accessibility from a vintage much restricted in such matters. This is clearly designed to be purchased and cracked with haste to seek immediate gratification. Simple and proud. Well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Campione: Perfectly intact place, tact and effect as Riserva from Diego Finnochi at L’Erta di Radda. There is no doubt this sangiovese (and note no canaiolo in the Riserva) has many more acts and scenes to play out, but even at this earliest of early stages it is expressive of the concepts, ideals and plans that nature, the maker and life have in store. Amazing fruit quality, purity and succulence with acidity so Radda and ripe for these vineyards. Preferably speaking the time to drink 2021 would be three years forward but those who find bottles will have a hard time waiting that long. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Campitello 2021, Radda

Campione: Oxidative, soured and overtly tang-inflected example which means the end of a bottle on day two is no way to taste and assess a wine as important as this. Tasted February 2024

With Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020

Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Cerna 2020, Castellina

From the “Primocolle,” the first Villa Rosa hill comprising two vineyards, Solatino and Solare, for Riserva. A mix of luxe and savoury for what is ostensibly terroir relatable Riserva. Much more specific to its two part sense of place then say five years ago and so more focus at this stage of its tenure. Chewy fruit, somewhat leathery, indicative of Primocolle and exaggerated by the warm vintage. Also an herbaceous quality which is also a matter of how the hill translates sangiovese. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Pomona’s Cosimo Selvi, Monica Raspi and Enrico Selvi

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Pomona L’Uomino 2020, Castellina

The artist formerly known as Bandini is not a Riserva of selection but one made from all the grapes picked out of the single Vigna Pomona. The fantasy name “L’Uomini” neither denotes uomo della strada nor uomo d’affari but definitely uomo d’onore and uomo alla mano because this Riserva cares. The vines would have been 23 years of age for this vintage and the resulting wine is spicier than the Annata, but also exhibits an exaggeration of the local balsamico. A kind of resin in there, a natural cure, savoury and like incense some might say. It is the strident and taut character that defines what’s really going on though this shall pass. Yet another example of just how well 2020s communicate and explain their potential. Slow development ahead and in the end will be a vintage held in great esteem. L’Uomini is not a man of the street or just about business. He is friendly and wears a badge of honour. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Ser Lapo 2020, Castellina

Ten percent merlot rounds out the sangiovese but also lends a bolder character, darker of fruit and quicker to the conflagration of alcohol, body and depth. The result is a Riserva that comes at you straight away in delivery of a warmer and more direct to palate vintage-relatable sangiovese. Riserva of a replicate kind, from nose to nose, sip to sip and middle ground structure so very easy to assess. Drink this now or hold for two to three years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

“The Riserva is our diamond, in general,” says Giacomo Nardi, a reference truly applicable to his new vintage that is 2020. Same postcard of Castellina and the best selection of 100 percent sangiovese chosen from four parcels within the 10 hectares of the planted vineyard. Picked in and around the 10th of October, refined in Tuscan wood. A matter of elegant tannin following a local balsamico nose, a particularity of Tuscan wood and Riserva in the Nardi style. Riserva that captures sangiovese at peak no matter how late the harvest might be and that is truly important. Impressive acumen, protective fruit under a shaded canopy and gut instincts at harvest time to be followed for successful results. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

A good example of a sample, rich and my goodness the fruit and tannins are exceptional, full, established and intertwined. The potential here is positive and one could imagine that the next one for Sophie Conte’s 2021 Riserva will be unlimited. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Il Grigio 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is some peppery character especially on the aromatics and all the while the spices plus balsamic elements are consistent with the Annata, both from 2020 and 2021. Fruit is the same sourcing as the Annata but here the substantial quality by selection and extra aging in wood (mainly Botti Grandi, none of it new) means more weight and texture. Glycerol now, a silky-smooth elixir with chic style and more variegate tones. Ambient and plenty of succulence. Good structure from 2020. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arturo Pallanti, Lorenza Sebaste and Marco Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2020, Gaiole

Not atypical for the vintage and as Riserva the Montebuoni 2020 is so representative of all that is suave, stylish, ripe, fresh and free. The selection of fruit, warmth of weather, extra six-plus months of aging and finally appellative conditioning all add up to soft, mature and sweet endowment,. Not many reasons to wait or stack these away on the racks or in diamonds of the cellar. This is a vintage to drink, now, soon and with gratifying expectation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

A beautiful harvest balanced by the last part of the summer with good morning temperatures and a reminder that the winter provided more snow than any season in the last 20-30 years. This is Riserva with a good balance between body and acidity. Luca’s nephew Federico sees both the ’20 Riserva and Percarlo as good as any that have ever come from San Giusto. He is correct when he comments about a balance that will endure. Last tasted February 2024

Barrel sample and the youth of this San Giusto wine is something too behold. A fortification equal to both Siena and Firenze combined. Le Baròncole is serious, stone-faced and impressive. My goodness. Score and full assessment reserved to a much later date. Tasted February 2023

I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Heady and lifted aromas, spicy, intense and certainly a level of sauvage. More substance and layers of fruit than ever before. Tang in ways no other Gaiole sangiovese will show, no matter that 10 percent of softening merlot should round out the wine, especially at Riserva level. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A combination of frescezza and warmth with fruit that yes is fresh but there is both weight and tension to this Riserva. Truly appellative, very wisely and obviously Gaiole, rich and yet vertical, tight and still fleshy so that you have to see this as generous. Top drop for La Montanana between 2015 and 2020. Last tasted December 2023 and February 2024.

My what a lovely Riserva! Fruit succulent and sweet and swirled so effortlessly into equally mouthwatering acidity of pitch perfect tone. Yes there is Gaiole savour and it’s presence is as a seasoning, with chef’s ability, emotion and touch. As for 2020 well this from La Montanina delves into passion and the aforementioned emozione as well and as much as any Riserva in the Classico area. Brava, Oretta Leonini. Grande Gaiole! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

Google the words Perano + Gaiole + Chianti Classico and the first result should very well be “Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva Docg 2020, Gaiole.” Inescapable essence of Perano, essential sector of Gaiole and established representative of Chianti Classico. This is Riserva, a selection from the 90 hectares encompassing much of the estate, creating a sum total so substantial to see this 2020 as spokeswine for this agricultural place. Properly reductive while luxe and forward because in this case selectivity begets seduction, balance and structure. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

Campione: A sample, lifted, high spirited and high elevation Greve raised for sangiovese that’s in a league and class of its own. Richness and a swirl of fruit meeting wood that only acidity can tame. Its does and there is a low level amount of Brettanomyces that distracts. Tannins are a touch brittle as a consequence. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

The first vintage where this is a nice percentage of sangiovese from Casole (out of the Lamole UGA) and yet another warm vintage. Once again it is that fruit that brings the lift. That and the small amount of whole bunch which winemaker Manfred Ing says “I can smell it” and you know something, he’s absolutely right. Crunchy Riserva or as they say, croccantezza, layered like the Annata with the volume turned up, oak usage not so, fruit more perfumed and again that lift which is so important. The delicate nature and delicacy of sangiovese is respected and preserved, the drink-ability factor as high as it has ever been. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Riserva is a thing of beauty and richness from 2020 for a vintage of raw power though with this sangiovese Verrazzano finds both restraint and controlled nervousness. The acidity is just about as well captured, preserved and musical as it gets for both appellation and vintage. An indication of present tense Verrazzano with this nervosity that’s never over the top or in danger of crossing into next level territory. The age worthiness of 2020 is tops. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Showing vibrant and racy today, a really great place for Riserva, any Riserva that is but add in the current day trenchant intention to make fresher and cleaner sangiovese. Crispy if you will, dictated by the Pietraforte of these southeastern hills of Panzano. The 2020 has found its way and the window is now open. Will stay in this ideal drinking state for four to five more years. Last tasted February 2024

Eight months later and Iacopo Morganti exclaims “Molto Buono!” The wood has not fully integrated, nor was that expected but now the aggressive aspects are relenting and the fruit-acid relationship is developing into the extraordinary. Another eight months and this will enter the “zone.” Tasted October 2023

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Al Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

La Riserva is a factor and a child of vintage warmth, nurturing and in Le Fonti’s Panzano hands it comes away finely tuned. A full fruity expression with profound acidity and long chains of sangiovese tannin. The 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot do effect the outcome but in these vineyards they act more Panzano than varietal when used as salt and pepper seasoning. Length is outstanding which speaks to a potential that will mean longer age-ability than many by this Riserva’s peers. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Led by sangiovese with 15 percent cabernet franc, mainly chosen in the vineyard because explains Cosimo Gericke, “over the years I know the vineyard and which ones produce the best sangiovese.” Spends two years in small and also large wood (Slavonian botti) but the barriques are being phased out in these years. Dark fruit, rich, deep and yes it’s a woody example of Riserva but it’s suave, mature, experienced and so very real within this kind of style. Full and substantial wine with really soft and fine tannins. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2020, Radda

When when you take a sip of sangiovese and think aloud “wow, that’s pretty good,” well then something special is in the glass. Riserva Poggio Croce is a veritable glide of sangiovese in tutto, clear, present, clean and giving. A touch of residual sappy oak persists and will need to resolve before this as Riserva feels in touch with Poggio Croce and this unique part of Radda. That said the 2020 is not as big a wine as many in the territory, which is to say something very positive about what the (new) team is after. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Famiglia Cianferoni – Caparsa, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2020, Radda

Doccio a Matteo meaning the “spring” comes from the same vineyards as the Classico but as a selection because the top and bottom sections mature differently. The Riserva may not be the “freshest” but they are the best grapes that can be harvested. Includes three percent of colorino and aged in grandi botti of 1000L size. Calm and subtly fortified, open-knit and generous. Already there and will hold for several years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2020, Radda

The Caparsino always needs more time than both the Caparso and the Doccio a Matteo. Needs hours of air bit Paolo Cianferoni can’t explain why. Tannins surely, tighter chained and layered. These are chewier tannins and the only wine that’s simply not ready to drink. Rustic perhaps but when things stretch and elasticize there will be no shortage of penance served and southwestern Radda on offer. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Riserva comes from the steep 1974 vineyard to the left (north) of the house planted by Roberto Bianchi’s father Giorgio, aged for 30 months in botti and tonneaux. A true single plot that may or may not as well be wink-wink, nudge-nudge Gran Selezione. Cool and ethereal like Annata 2020 with some spice cupboard arriving at the same time as the tannins for that unresolved protein powder feeling. Still it is understood that Val delle Corti’s sangiovese are youthful, fresh, crunchy and tart. Full and corpulent with potential being the thing about this 2020 and what’s required to see it open three years later before beginning to tell its true story. A bit raw or “crudo” at this stage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Sample of sweet fruit, closed and intense with early the operative to sense and feel what’s coming. Tannins locked in tight with our palates bracing for impact. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Richness incarnate, soft, billowy and downy texture but high ranging acidity puts the Gabbiano Riserva in a fine state to impress. The expression is pure richesse, velvet mouthfeel, sleekness and beauty. That acidity is the driver and will keep the flow, but also spirit alive for a few years yet. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Tignanello 2021, San Casciano

Honestly speaking it would be hard not to recognize the hundreds of years of heritage and history in a wine that bears the name of the Marchesi. Not feeling the experience would not be paying attention and not seeing the professionalism would indicate a journalistic lapse in judgement. The 2021 Riserva is sleek (from vineyard) and sturdy by design. Vertical vintage, lower in quantity to a degree and higher in phenolics to a fault. A good one that is. Sangiovese con altre varietà complementari, part endemic and part expatriate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2021

The Villa as Riserva is a great compliment to the Marchesi, not grossly different but less of a linear, structured and age-worthy wine. Swifter and sweeter in the natural fruit sense, swelling with glycerin and pectin invoking flavours. This is the one that imagines so much fruit and generosity in the easiest of drinking ways. Truly getable and as Riserva bridges the gap between Annata and more elevated if also serious appellative examples. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

A few more points of merlot than the Annata, up to 20 percent here and a dusty, also slightly musty Riserva, though acidity is quite fine. Two years in barriques but also the 3000L Grenier botti. More energy than Anaata but also more savour and verdancy. Drink over the next two years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Cortevecchia 2020, San Casciano

As with Le Corti Annata the wines see 27hL casks and colorino is used, “only for the tradition.” The Cortavecchia is intrinsically connected to the Annata, they are brethren and the selection between one and the other happens after fermentation. First comes the spezzaturra and then the division. The river stone soil earthiness is carnale not animale and from 2020 there is more flesh and body then before. This means more settling and grounding but also roundness than what happened in 2018, but also surely what will come from 2021. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: A sample though surely as close to the finished product as it will get for this 100 percent sangiovese. Hard not to note and feel the commodiousness of the vintage, from fruit phenolic in its well developed ripeness, acids fortifying, tannins stronger than ever before. Harder to express the vineyard (Alparco) and more challenging to shine a light but this is Emma and San Donato so be sure to taste the sanguine orange ornateness of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

While there have been several warm vintages over the last five or six for Chianti Classico there are few that deliver this combination of concentration juxtaposed against such a high level of tannic command. The ’20 Riserva is essentially immovable at this early stage and should rightly require 18 further months to shed some of its assigned consignment, to unburden, lighten and be set free. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Somewhere between six and seven thousand bottles are produced of this 100 percent sangiovese, from several vineyards and so the cuvée is indeed a selection. Definite spice cupboard of aromatics, coriander and ground red pepper, red fruit powder and then more attention paid because the wood is strong early on. Will be needing some time to liquify the chalkiness and emulsify into the textural fabric of the wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico La Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Really unique for Classico and also San Donato aromatics, somewhat herbaceous, lifted and floral. Definitely salty while well-seasoned, namely with white pepper and a curious note of mirto. Quite a swath of unresolved wood and very much a thickened texture. As Riserva and especially San Donato goes this will need and benefit from time in bottle. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Vineyards are 24-25 year-old for Riserva with some (25 percent) new barriques used for aging. Soft yet elastic tannins equip this 2020 for deeper term aging to the end of its first decade. Once again it is a matter of vintage and this one will see Riserva last several years longer than the Annata. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample and always Calidonia – Calidonia, the three vineyard (Vigna della signora Chiara, Finocchi and Perone) from Mocenni estate as Riserva that is the sangiovese incarnation of its maker Alessandra Casini. A Riserva of grace and fluidity, of movement as if feet do not touch the ground and corporeal body gliding effortlessly across the palate. The wine senza sforzo nel movimento, still in youth with wood purposed and informing fruit to come for the soirée and stay for the pleasure. As do we because the ingredients will eventually emulsify into a fine varietal salsa. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2024

The women of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castellina

What a change from year to year, still under the guidance of Franco Bernabei, still some salinity but the sappy quality is gone and now the sangoivese has some backbone. Structure is now part of Riserva’s world and in turn our experience. Last tasted May 2024

Perfumed to the hilt, a Castellina of quite mature fruit and seriously typical Riserva profile. Chalky as part of its tannic adjustment with wood a major part, espresso and dusty chocolate just omnipresent at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Riserva is expressive of some more warmth and also spice as compared to both Annata and Gran Selezione. In this respect it’s truly Riserva, the concept made even more notable due to the aromatic richness in layers of seductive perfume. If the others are crunchy wines with energy and freshness than this is the chewy one, with a different energy and style. More “ruffiano,” the kind of sangiovese you eat slowly and savour every bit of the sauce. Gonna need a few pieces of bread to get every last drop. 70,000 to 80,000 bottles produced. The 2018 sold like crazy and so this ’19 is out at the same time as the 2019 Annata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

High Gaiole tones of sweet vintage fruit filling the aromatic spaces above and between. Field blend style with all the endemic bits of varieties spicing and saucing the nooks, butte chambers and crannies of this wine. There are no moments when 2019 Badia a Coltibuono is quiet or absent – the wine gifts and gifts again, and again. This is the future and wouldn’t it be nice if this family could carry on this way for another 1000 years. The privilege can never be taken for granted. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza Di Claudia Cinuzzi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Traditional Chianti Classico from high elevation and verdant hills for sangiovese (with bits of canaiolo and malvasia nera) that can’t and will not be separated from its place. That would be Lamole and Riserva simply compounds the UGA’s character, compresses its feelings and expresses the emotions of a territory’s coolest location. This is parochial red wine of a specific and insular heritage and few other wines deliver this kind of specificity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Emilia, Maria Giovanna and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just recently bottled three months ago and will be released this month. There is no doubt this is the finest Riserva Giovanni has made in his 30-pus years at Casaloste. Immediately notice the salty note, the mineral streak, the moving of all parts together in mimic of a vintage where phenolic maturity and sugars came about slowly and incrementally as one. Perhaps 2016 was similar or close but this, this finds harmony as easily as it can possibly happen. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

“I remember 2019 when we tasted it together at the age that the 2020 is now,” says Paolo Cianferoni. “Now this 2019 is more relaxed.” Aromas are similar to the Mimma 2019, gently swarthy and fruity exotic, with a sense of that fruit becoming leathery but more floral along the way. “Here it’s a fresh place so the fruit is constant. The acidity is what makes the sangiovese so perfumed.” Paolo never touches the pH, no adjustments necessary because of the warming climate. Last tasted February 2024

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Doccio a Matteo is more settled and ready to enjoy than Caparsino, yet equally perfumed as the 2019s all seem to be. Liquid chalky, a true expression of Paolo’s three combined soils, each one layered upon one another. Galesto di Scalia (di Argilla), Alberese mixed with Sabia (sand), and finally a mix of sand and clay. Lovely mix of perfumes, silky textures and blood orange reduction for a truly layered sangiovese. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. More tannin and tension here, especially as compared to Riserva (Caparsino) and needing an extra year to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva from Colle Bereto’s Radda is about as pure, fresh and scintillatingly clean as it has ever been. What we should be incredibly thankful for is the patience to see this released as a 2019 in 2024. The tannins are well on their way to resolution while the acidity is maintained. A fine, fine example of all that Riserva can be in Chianti Classico. Classic, stylish and generous. Last tasted February 2024

Big and brawny wine from Colle Bereto for Riserva and 2019 though of a concern with fruit cast in balance against structure lined up for low, slow and carefully curated development. And maturity with pure sangiovese raised and never braised, surely to be exulted and ultimately praised. Loving the acids within that structure and the chalkiness in smart ratio these vineyards seem to procure. Bravo Bernardo. Certamente. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Giacomo Castellani – Tenuta Campomaggio, Radda

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva is a natural extension of Annata, as natural of fruit and acidity with a similar litheness and transparency. That said the concentration exceeds or steps up, without noticing wood even an iota more upon the structural parts. Here a blend of two vineyards, of Olmo and mostly Ginestraia. Fermentation in concrete and conical vats, aging for 18 months in the grandi botti. The mix of Pietraforte and Macigno soils will not be overstated and so Riserva comes away in doubled layers on repeat. There is no doubt that Riserva steps up from Annata but never abandons the basic Raddese fact of where these grapes are grown. Sangiovese with a double identity, of the two vineyards though from 2019 the Ginestraia Macigno holds more sway. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Santa Teresa 2019, Radda

In 2019 the Riserva labeled Santa Teresa is pulled from the vineyard called “Telignie,” though Campomaggio is not able to use the name because the house at the bottom of the hill is called the same. This is the Pietraforte vineyard, vinified and aged in the Troncone vats, simply done but with no botti because the vintage saw this vineyard give the best quality and also quantity. Approximately 10 percent whole bunch included to bring a new layer of texture and also complexity. Almost no wood noted and only purity meets parity. Balanced and seductive, shoulders relaxed and flavours repeatable sip after sip. Only 5,000-7,000 bottles made, of a total 35,000 production. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2019, Vagliagli

The label that represents the original and central part of Dievole, first made in 1990 that was essentially 900 years after the estate was born. Richer and bolder than Annata with a selection of best plots more concentrated on the higher elevations. The sangiovese receives a five percent mix of canaiolo and colorino, all aging in the big casks. Very blood orange, wealthy and juicy fruit, tannins balanced and integrated, spice all over the back end. That bite is urged on by the inclusion of 10 percent stems, many of them green. Still tight at the finish so we’ll see its best years beginning one from now. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Annata and Riserva at CCC2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

Quite a sappy and soupy 100 per cent sangiovese Riserva made by Attilio Pagli, before organics came in. A style for they who like sweet marmalata, a purée of minestre vegetable, an and after eight (chocolate mint), all of which can somehow be very appealing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Trasqua Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Fanatico 2018, Castellina

Chewy Riserva, fully formed and developed with some of Trasqua’s finest fruit to date. Good acids too, more than most vintages and it feels like this would have been picked in late September because the ripenesses are both fully realized. Stands at attention and delivers all that it could have possibly had to offer. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Just a bit warmer than 2019, “but not too much.” You really feel the freshness and the acidity in a much greater way from this 2018. Extremely youthful wine with all the acidity and structure truly captured. A sangiovese and Chianti Classico lover’s wine. Drink 2024-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Mature aromatics, chewy red fruit, all the leathery plum and liquorice that can be packed into a Chianti Classico Riserva. Developed to the drinking stage, earlier as a vintage than many, hot one mind you and showing that right now, and more. Some mineral and chalk to the structure but pretty much good to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

“My favourite wine,” says Paolo, “it has for me the depth of the season.” Great richness juxtaposed against acids and freshness with true herbal bitters as sweet as they are grippy. Truly classic sangiovese and Riserva, even more so than the Caparsino. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Unequivocal and unmistakable as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio for one reason alone and that is the blood orange perfume so bloody (pun intended) typical of this westerly UGA. Here as Riserva and from 2018 with its purity of red fruit so citrus is origin, fine grained though now liquefying tannin and from a vintage picked in late September yet balanced in alcohol, and ripeness ahead of a strange 48-hour spell cast by temperatures running daytime high and nighttime low. Really fine Riserva in the window at this very moment but will stay this way for three to four years easy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would habe been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Latest release and coming to market as Riserva for Castell’In Villa is 2017, of course and for all the right reasons. Is there an equal in Chianti Classico for this conditioning of 100 percent sangiovese raised in traditional ways that age concurrent with their modern ability to deliver joy and profundity in equal ways? The answer is hard to find and so what comes from ’17 and Castelnuovo Berardenga’s vineyards in surround of the borgo and dressed throughout the forests is in fact nothing short of profound. One of the only wines in the entire territory that need not be spoken about in terms of fruit, acidity and tannin. The approach is different, in how senses, feelings and emotions are solicited and how responses are metered to consider in terms of gravity and other physical forces at work. Ethereality is an obtuse description, as was profundity but they are what they are and the things that come to mind. Sorry, not sorry. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Panzano

Lowest of low yields and great attention needed to be paid in both fields and cellar to result in this fine Riserva ’17. Reduced tomato and still a crunchy sangiovese that needs no introduction. Blood orange citrus and charred herbs, complexities left, right and centre. The tannins dry out more than ’16 but there is no doubt they are children of the same parents. Only 7,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

Hottest vintage with sunburnt grapes but acidity remains high even while the wine may seem a bit toasted. Still plenty of freshness and a reminder that all the old vineyard fruit was used because Doccio a Matteo was not produced. Acids are strong and bright, fruit reduced but opening up and the wine is now in a proper drinking place. The answer to whatever question you are thinking is simple. Caparsa. It’s strong to be sure. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage with no Doccio Matteo made because the grape quality and also quantity was not up to Radda par. “The wine is a mirror of the land, the people and the weather, like a dog.” The grapes here are from both Riserva selections and so quality reaches above par as only one of two, our two in one were produced. Severe at its moments and yet there is much concentration and compact elements, especially chalk and tension in this grippy 2017. Wait on it – the acids are also there to act as the fruition reaching catalyst. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016, Panzano

More off a volumetric Riserva as compared to the output and also the texture of 2017. Similar aromatics to be honest, of tomatoes and blood oranges but also fresh red plums in 2016. The identity of the winery and the vineyard could never come into question. Says Dario Faccin, “you change the quantity but you don’t change the quality.” 18,000 bottles produced as compared to 7,000 in 2017. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

Always with three percent colorino and the Riserva that joins Caparsino through comes into being in a different way. True vintage richness but always the Caparsa freshness and spirit. This by way of acidity and intensity but who could not be seduced by the tannins and structure in spite of an “easy” season by Chianti Classico standards. A complete wine in every respect. Last tasted February 2024

The 2016 Doccio a Matteo is the first sangiovese (in this line-up) from Paolo Cianferoni that’s actually ready to drink, in fact it’s very much there with some drying tannin mixed with dried fruit happening. Full and caky wine, rich and substantial. Must have salty protein to show best and for the win. Tasted February 2023

A single-vineyard Riserva from the plot above the smaller second house called Caparsino and filled with all the soils; argile, Galestro and Alberese. Surely an absolute about face expression with higher volatility and a high, near and nigh potential for advancing porcini notes. A deeper and darker black cherry. Characterful and mature in such a different way, The acidity is uncompromising even while the wine acts oxidative with more wood than the other Riserva. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted February 2020

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Needing time to open up and so 24 hours will always benefit this wine, mainly sangiovese with just a bit (0-5 percent) canaiolo fermented together and the end result is unmitigated integration. The blood orange vintage, slow oxidized and matured in big barrel for 24-30 months, a spice continuum all the way through. Menthol on the palate at the back end and more spice – so much texture and so far from going secondary. Fine Riserva vintage for Losi. Last tasted February 2024

Losi Querciavlle, bastion of one of the globe’s most impressive Alberese landscapes and home to some of this territory’s finest chiselled sangiovese. Like marble structures slowly formed by only those who know how to separate the form from the mass. This is the intuition Pietro Losi and his prodigies know and gift to the world. Give their wines time and you will understand. Like this ’15 Riserva, strong, confident, understated, perhaps yet misunderstood but surely pure and true. Bravissimo. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2020

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

“A real nuclear bomb, like 2017 the vintage was every hot in 2015 and the tannins very aggressive,” remembers Paolo. Salty on the aromatics and while the wine has done some settling it’s truly taut and tannic. A beast this one that still needs more time. Not typical for 2015 but the life of this Doccio A Matteo will be much longer than 2016. Last tasted February 2024

A fresher and more spirited sangiovese as compared to 2016, energy still running full and yet you can drink this with the right amount of air. Chewy liquorice, some tar, iodine and soy. Chocolate, lots of the dark stuff. The wines showed more wood back in these vintages. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

With Neri Capponi

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2010

Chianti Classico UNESCO World Heritage; the modern history of Chianti Classico and Villa Calcinaia up to its UNESCO candidacy. Only four years later and coinciding with the full separation away from all other Chianti wines for a 2010 so much more fresh, alive and intense than Bastignano 2006. This from a very hot vintage and a sangiovese that finished at 14.63 percent alcohol. A much more balanced and baller wine, here as Riserva for Chianti Classico with energy and vigour in modo vogue. 5,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With Laura Bianchi, Giulia Cecchi and Jessica du Puy at Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, San Donato in Poggio

“One of the most elegant vintages in the early 2000s, not too cold, hot, hard or soft, and really well balanced,” explains Laura Bianchi. Aged in a combination of botti and tonneaux, now into full secondary comportment while still grippy and tannic. In truly fine condition though who could argue that the 1982 is fresher, of finer acidity and more balance than this ’04 made 22 years later. A sign of wood usage and the times, of pressing and extraction, of the sort of Chianti Classico that was desired 20 years ago. And yet, and yet the acidity and fine-grained tannin are together intrinsically connected for what can best be described as an unctuous union of the two. This wine just gets better and better in the glass. In fact the spirit and especially acidity are noted as they climb up the sides of the palate with sparks to a point just below the cheekbones. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2003, Radda

Wild wine from a wild vintage, crazy hot at a time when vintages like this were not the norm though were beginning to be. Hot year but also high acidity, likely because of hailstorms in July that knocked off half of the production. The vines reacted by delivering more acidity to support grapes that were maturing quicker and heavier. Still this is Caparsa and freshness persists no matter the dried wild strawberry and oaky flavours. “It’s not my wine because I prefer lighter wines but this is very nice – if you like rich and expressive.” Just a few bottles left in Paolo’s possession. Now only 23. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982, San Donato in Poggio

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1969, San Donato in Poggio

One of the coolest vintages of the era and going back to a time when the wood was chestnut for aging sangiovese. Showing with end stage maturity, especially as compared to the 1968 and 1970 Riserva tasted at Monsanto. There is this feeling of chestnut sap reduction, a kind of soy and vanilla pudding, an herbal note and a sweetness. Imagination begets fantasy and fantasy fades into demure. Tasted February 2024

With Maddalena Fucile, Matteo Vaccari and Bernardo Manetti at the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2021, Panzano

Oldest plot of vines are just approaching 50 years of age growing in the schist with Galestro flaking above the soil. Giovanni Manetti decided to bottle Sorbo as a single vineyard in 1985 though it does come from three plots of plantings put in between 1965 and 1973. Though April frost affected quantity in 2021 there was no compromise to quality and in fact this is as balanced a Vigna el Sorbo as Manetti has ever produced. Bottled just three-plus weeks ago and so yes it’s tight and compact, especially the tannins that take control but truth is this will continue to happen for another few months at the very least. See past the first stage and imagine what will be, take stock of memory and project towards the future. Manetti once said “the fresh finish (of the 1993 wine) should be the trademark of Chianti Classico wines.” Perhaps 2021 will emerge this way. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2021, Panzano

From the terraces around the old medieval Panzano church that the Manetti’s have and continue to restore for a Gran Selezione they were not sure would be made this early in their tenure of working with its fruit. Yet it shocked and surprised Giovanni and Bernardo to the point that it could be made at this level so early and so 2019 was the first, well ahead of schedule. This is a truly structured vintage, a trace of next direction, from the past and through the next generation, fruit so compact and mineral focused but tannins in complete control. The finish is beautifully salty and so completely Panzano. This puts San Leolino as Gran Selezione in next level and new light. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2021, Panzano

An important selection, in 2021 mainly from the Al Sole vineyard but also some fruit coming out of Francesca. “A great vintage for us,” says Iacopo Morganti. Unfortunately the Easter frosts reduced quantity by 40 percent. No matter because Il Margone’s position is to offer a calm respite away from wines too big for their own good, pivoted towards elegance in a sangiovese so right and so pure. Puts this in the finest Panzano light as a wholesome Margone by Morganti and Il Molino di Grace that will slowly evolve over a near 15 year period with kept freshness and slow development. Last tasted May 2024

Campione: Take a little trip forward along a linear and precisely drawn line from Riserva to Gran Selezione and see what will be. Not as aggressive or intense as Riserva but its own kind of powerful and grippy while also more charming. I believe its elegance will begin to show sooner rather than later, say in the first few weeks of 2021. The wood is more noticeable on the nose and the sangiovese needs time – but charm and grace is there. This you can count on. Smaller production of 8,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted October 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Campione: Will be bottled in August and released in 18 months. Since 2016 no frost issues and at this 400m-plus elevation site the April frosts have not been an issue. Striking Gran Selezione of lift, next level acidity and longest chains of tannic command. This may be a sample but it forges a connection between parts, to its Panzano vineyard, to some of Chianti Classico’s finest Galestro and iron soils, to the future. It’s all there, as are the passion plus hard work. The potential is almost impossible to imagine. The length is endless. 3,000 bottles will be made. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The aromas and perfumes are so much more prevalent and open for 2021 with stoniness and Castellina as the instigator for how this Gran Selezione is want to express itself. Crispy, savoury and the sort to really bite down and sink your teeth into. Last tasted April 2024.

New label not yet printed that likely indicated this has not been in bottle long and as a 2021 Gran Selezione that must surely be the case. Keep this in mind when you feel just how implosive and locked in the fruit is kept behind the wall of tannic sound. The freight is loaded in the compartments but the train has yet to leave the station – though as a 2021 there will be joy at the end of the line. With stops along the way because the vintage does not demand too much nor will it crash and burn. Brancaia’s 2021 is a ripe and primed GS to live out the decade and then for a few more years in the next. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2021, San Casciano

If it looks like, smells like and tastes like Badia a Passignano, well then it must be Badia a Passignano. Then again as a 2021 the fullness, generosity and natural phenolic grip meeting sweetness is unparalleled. Yes the underlying verdant savour is always there, always the Badia’s corner of San Donato in Poggio, but honestly the pulchritude of substance feels extant, furthered and extra level for Passignano. For Antinori. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Pietraforte meets Macigno and Galestro at Campomaggio, Radda

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2020, Castellina

Big and let’s reiterate big vintage for Capraia’s Castellina sangiovese and as Gran Selezione the ideal elevates to the hyperbole of an idiom. Thick, rich, oaky and seriously intense but boy that wood has to to settle and integrate. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Clean, advanced to a finer point and really showing the sweetness of fruit at this stage. Open whenever you are ready yet can also be kept for four-plus years. Last tasted February 2024

Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2020 is Gran Selezione like looking in the Castellina mirror because the purity of red, red, red fruit is the crux and at the core of what this wine wants to say. Hyper indicative of the vintage, clear and transparent, never too weighty or adamant and Fonterutoli puts everything in its rightful place. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February and October 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2020, Castellina

From Palagione where vines were first planted in 1965 and the material kept alive through massal selection. Here more structure and lower layers, compact yet breathable Gran Selezione that moves like an accordion. At once tight and playing bass notes but then open and making echoing sounds. A complex wine so young and yet with such a bright future ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sei 2020, Castellina

Sei is long but Sei is right. Sei knows what’s what and is ready for the fight. With itself, a self imposed struggle that mimics the vines and what they had gone through in the vintage. A warm one but this amazing vineyard at 500m sprawled over a hill convex and rolling is the place where Castellina sangiovese turns out this kind of succulence. The maker knows what he’s got and delivers the goods, less in the face then many from 2020 and with grace. This is a fine wine. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Really, really dark blood orange, deeper, darker and richer than what will likely come next from 2021. Spicy nose, wild, almost ferocious and great complexity, wound tight and the palate acting so multifaceted as well, but yet to unwind. Persistence is wow, going on forever. A serious, polished and fabulous 2020 Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: A barrel sample but how can Colonia not be distinctive? Gotta be just about ready to get into bottle at this three-plus-plus year mark, savoury bits swirling and fruit layers compounded with great force. The way the warm and frankly big vintage manifests itself here is with fruit intensity and wood spice that piques here, there and everywhere. A Colonia that needs years to integrate and more time too settle in. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

“A vintage a little hidden between two great ones, 2019 and 2021,” tells Francesco Mazzei. The fruit comes from one special and large (nine hectare) parcel in Castelnuovo Berardenga on the Vagliagli side not far from Mocenni. A wild weave of expositions crisscrossing the apex and crests of a hill at 350m-plus with views to all directions. Makes for a complex patterning of fruit and acidities, a venn diagram of all that is Mazzei, the experience with Fonterutoli, the new frontier in Castelnuovo and Gran Selezione. Some variegate phenolics add to the mystique while dry and botanical Amaro comes later to expand upon the multiplicity of the wine. There is much going on and the need to wait a year or two is recommended. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

The sangiovese comes from the highest of the San Felice vineyards with a few points here and there of other indigenous varieties like the variant of colorino (called abrusco), malvasia, pugnitello and ciliegiolo. So youthful with still gritty or sandy tannins, high tonality but always the balsamic, spices and herbs. Wood is very much in the aromatic mix but also on the texture, thick as thieves with those hard-working tannins. Give it five years and things will get oh so very interesting. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Castello Di Ama Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG San Lorenzo 2020, Gaiole

San Lorenzo is one of the most unique Gran Selezione because, well it was always one, long before it was allowed to be labeled this way. The large vineyard was the Classico for Castello di Ama, the wine that represented the vineyards and estate in the most succinct way. That said it was always about breadth and quantity, as it is now though the vines have been been held, treated and farmed to the highest standard. The 2020 is an aromatic beast, meaty and floral, of evergreen and spices. A potpourri and a masala, the palate acting out the stew of all these aromatics accenting juices, fats and proteins for the most well-developed Gran Selezione in the territory. A fantasy of sangiovese with 13 percent merlot and (7) malvasia nera for 60,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Exuberance and scintillant matter exude from Brolio’s energetic 2020 Gran Selezione which is truly a selection in the form of a “Villages” example taken from 270-pus hectares and at least five different terroirs. A layered and variegate mix of sand, clay and limestone, a lacustrine set of complexities lending all that is needed to create such a well-rounded example of Gran Selezione. Defines Gaiole and Ricasoli, discovers the vintage and delivers the goods. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2020, Gaiole

Colledilà, likely “lost” from the Welsh and yet this first Gran Selezione labeled with its Gaiole UGA will leave us all anything but. Like a an old and beautiful Welsh folk song about a love lost this is the sort of sangiovese that may just make you wistful and weepy. That is because Ricasoli has discovered what makes these grapes round out into a most ideal example of Gran Selezione. This is a soulful and spiritual hymn to Chianti Classic and specifically Gaiole, living, breathing and singing. There is charm, elegance and beauty here, not to mention to kind of structure built upon epochs of geology to see this linger well into the next and further decades. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Gittori 2020, Gaiole

Yet juicy, not finally because it always was for a crispy vintage of Riecine’s top drop. What truly matters now is the incredible length to tell us that the wine is in a great position and the possibilities will travel long. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wholly singular Gran Selezione aromatic set, a smoulder not noted in any other sangiovese, certainly not at this level. That said the red citrus of Riecine can’t be missed, that plus tar and roses notes so reminiscent of some nebbiolo. This would be a great ringer to throw into a mixed sangiovese and nebbiolo blind tasting with tasters struggling to decide which were which. Great length from Riecine and without a doubt a wine for cellaring. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2020, Greve

A Sofia, self denoted label for proprietor Sofia Ruhne and a Gran Selezione from the vineyard opposite the estate on terraces rising up the eastern hill of Greve. A 2020 of restraint, clarity and controlled intensity, many old vines imparting their wisdom to develop concentration, but never too much. There is a not too hard and not too soft aspect of this sangjovese. It speaks to the heart of the Terreno matter. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

With John Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Prima 2020, Greve

La Prima is as it states, the first Gran Selezione and the larger of the two in terms of production for Vicchiomaggio. Richness and somewhat middle of the road structure but all falls into place without much obstruction. Stony and grippy, liquid chalky and quite fine all around, while also softened by 10 percent merlot. Not as complex as Le Bolle to be sure but a fine representative of Matta’s Greve nonetheless. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Victoria, Federica, Sebastain and Delfina Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2020, Greve

Sister Gran Selezione to La Prima, certainly not La Seconda but rather “Le Bolle,” literally the “bubbles.” Happens to be the name of the top parcel at Vicchiomaggio and a Gran Selezione that captures every ounce of fruit and moment of truth for the vintage. And yet at 13.5 percent alcohol it’s a bit of a throwback, a light and bright star for the appellation at the near minimum as far as discipline and rules are concerned. This is about as elegant and graceful as it gets for the appellation so that great food can be paired alongside for years to come. If I were designing a pairing menu today this would rise to the top of the list. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. One of the baller and brazen Gran Selezione in Conti Capponi’s work, doubled down by a vintage of similar character. Intense minerals and elemensl streaking through chalky fruit that mimics and speaks to the terroir – an Alberese stone that will not be denied. This is indeed serious and structured. Wait a minimum four years people. Please. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. Richer, thicker, softer and less intense than certainly Bastignano and in fact the lack of power makes Contessa Luisa show its wood to much greater effect. Sure this needs to relax, settle, integrate and transform but Luisa will always be the softest and dreamiest of the Gran Selezione ‘20s. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. If Bastignano is the beast and Contessa Luisa the beauty then where does that put La Fornace? Not exactly in the middle but shall we say at the mean with its complimentary mix of brawn and beauty, a handsome 2020 of warmth and energy, higher acidity and a burning desire to please. The furnace is on a heater but the flame will die down and eventually breeze to a flicker, after five or six years before fully softening at around 10 to 12. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2020, Montefioralle

Another 2020 from Terreno but this time the terrain is Montefioralle, off of Formazione di Silano geology and so there is grit and power that A Sofia does not show. A Gran Selezione of musculature but a toned and taut corporeal type. Also finer or at least sharper acids from the Sillano and more wood noted as well. May live longer than it’s sister but it shows less finesse – which is splitting hairs but that’s how we look at children of the same parents. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Corso, Bernardo and Margherita Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2020, Panzano

If you think there has been movement from Vigna del Sorbo 2020 think again because the locks remain on the doors, the windows closed and the sign says “come back next season.” Last tasted February 2024

Three parcels, two planted between 1965 and 1971 plus 1973, coming together because the uniqueness of these three plots are the schist soils that manifest above ground as Galestro. All about spiciness and mid-palate volume. The sorbo is a local fruit, specific to Tuscany, very dry and tannic, much like grapes. And hello to the Chianti Classico UGA within Greve commune because this is the first label to say Panzano, 40 years in the making and finally the mention is here. Structure is serious from a reduced crop yield due to frost in April and this is what Giovanni Manetti had to say at the time. “We had a couple of days very cold, April 6th and 7th but the damages are limited to the young vines. The majority of the buds of the other vines were still closed and were not hurt by the frost. In the rest of the CC territory there were some damages in the warmer areas and zero in the cooler ones like Radda and Lamole. The frost in 2017 was much more worse than this.” A linear Vigna del Sorbo this 2020, taut, extremely young and with a great potential. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2020, Lamole

The sangiovese from Lamole of the vineyard strewn with stones of marine origin. Marne di Macigno is the derivative geological term used by Giovanni Manetti and who should argue with the logic? A vein of calcareous material runs through, surely come down from Monte San Michele, up above at 1000m direction Radda. Almost as if both Lamole and Panzano are present in this unicorn vineyard, a marriage of two UGAs in one thin strip of terraced steppes encompassing a single block. Fermentation in amphora “to highlight the fruit in another way,” tells Bernardo Manetti. The most textural of all the Fontodi wines, and indeed a pulpiness as opposed to the glissade of especially the Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. “The nose is like music,” says Giovanni Manetti. Classically composed, lyrical and asymmetrically on repeat. Someday Pastrolo may become Fontodi’s biggest prize. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2020, Panzano

How much does the human factor effect a wine like San Leolino? The answer lies in the relationship between the land, weather, vintage and in how the people who work the fields to maximize the gifts made available to them. From 2020 the quotient is high, above 2019 and ready to pass the torch to 2021. At least in these first three vintage the incline is palpable, the progression linear and more importantly vertical. This is great and 2021 will take it further. Allow the wood to settle for two more years. Last tasted February 2024

From the vineyards surrounding the 9th century Pieve and you know what they say. “Sangiovese is planted, consequences follow.” A 15th century drawing found in a Florence museum proves that monks cultivated grapes on this property at that time. More perfume than the Classico level Panzano and so there is proof that this terraced land with high level Alberese soils provides aromatics and great structure in the way a Lamole plus Panzano might hypothetically get together for a similar result. Leolino is not a go between but something unique, something other. Special and of an aging potential that may just be more promising than that of Vigna del Sorbo, but let’s wait 10-15 years to see if that will come to be true. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Tenth anniversary for the Gran Selezione appellation that was first launched by Il Molino di Grace with the 2010 vintage released in 2014. While Riserva may have come to a readied state Il Margone has not, because tannin times acidity come out doubly aggressive, like the Annata but magnified to the power of 10. Crazy Panzano acidity, sweet and extremamente ventoso. Not far away but still not there. Last tasted February 2024

The vineyard that gives the best quality is Magdalena Vineyard planted around 2010, both for 2020 and what’s to come in 2021. When you have less production it’s easier to separate the wheat from the chaff and so the lots fermented separately are easier to identify. This 2020 proposes an extreme set of tannic proportions but sweet fruit with heft, weight and flesh is up to the task. Tasted October 2023

Fine tannic presence from Gran Selezione for 2020, several steps up from Riserva with less pitch and grab but still overt dark fruit. More diversity and complexity in perfume, notable violets and rose but really what stands out here is how the tannins allow the fruit to stay up front. There are no perceived grains or sand-papery textures involved, neither is Il Margone soft or fluffy. There may only be 8,000 or so bottles available at this quality and so a rare and must have wine it most certainly will be. Iacopo Morganti explains it well. “It’s not easy too make three different levels of Chianti Classico. You need to understand the vintage and the differences, especially when you have less quantity.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

The IdF 2020 will be released in two or three months and if the vineyard were registered as Panzano (and not Montefioralle) then it will be the first GS labeled with the UGA. A wholly apposite vintage to 2021, grippier with fruit shaded darker and brooding, but what really stands out is the ferric and the sanguine, intense and reductive iron blood of jove. Like eating grilled calf’s liver and now the deep red Panzano soil from this single vineyard really hits hard and flows through the corpulence of the sangiovese. The vineyard will be called Le Falcole on the label as of 2020. One of the most intense and identifiable expressions of any in all of Chianti Classico. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

Campione: A sample but more developed as such than so many because Le Fonti, unlike many others does not feel the need to extract and press to impress. In fact there is a level of restraint and fineness that speaks to confidence but also a Gran Selezione made in the way it simply had to be made. Important as one hundred percent sangiovese and definitive of Le Fonti’s finest available fruit in their north-easterly aspect and exposure of Panzano. This is seriously good. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rignana 2020, Panzano

Gran Selezione is 100 percent sangiovese, just bottled in June of 2023. First vintage was 2013 and this 2020 is the first to see Panzano gracing the label under the new rules of the UGA. Similar elévage to the Riserva with all small barrels from a 2003 planted vineyard packed with lots of clay, Alberese lower down and Galestro at the top. Floral example, a bit of acetone, some wood scents of vanilla and coconut and finally balsamico. High acid, sharp, quite tannic and needing a few years to settle in. Will be a much better wine once the integration occurs. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

Curious how 2020 shows a bit more maturity then the 2019 Gran Selezione and the vintage is a bit of a crossroads for this appellative level of a Brancaia Classico. Shows its wood with more aromatic and also textural density, acids are lower and a bit brooding while overall the feeling is of one very experienced and complete Gran Selezione. Balsamico at the finish and balance for sure. Last tasted May 2024

The Brancaia from Castellina is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February and October 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Solatìo 2020, Radda

Starting at Annata 2021, through Riserva 2021 and here to Gran Selezione 2020 we see, nose, taste and feel Albola’s progression, in descending order. The most fruit, sweetest acidity, finest integration and more generous gifts are in this wine. Less structured than many Gran Selezione while also less intense, brooding or formidable as many peers – but sometimes fruit is everything. As here with a 2020 that’s ready and willing to please. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2020, Radda

The Radda Gran Selezione is born of high higher elevation, at 570m below the tiny abbey and truly aboard the glare of white sandy limestone with some Galestro flaking at the surface. The most lift, highest tone and brightest style, part soil and part elevation, but most of all forethought. The fact that the Mazzei decided to acquire this place in 1989, whether by brilliance, chance or both, it only matters that this is a special place today with the ability to create a beautiful and fascinating wine. The energy and finesse is next level from Badiòla 2020, fresh as it gets and with a potential to age for a decade plus. Last tasted February 2024

Badiòla out of Radda is the work of Fonterutoli (out of Castellina) though the distance between cantina and vineyard is not that great. Lovely bit of swarthy behaviour and also an airy quality so elevation surely plays a role and Mazzei clearly sees the potential in this site. High toned and a notable acetone quality though it finds a way to play nice and stay well beneath dangerous thresholds. Good work and promise is clearly the thing. Drink relatively young if best after two more years and look for 2021 to surely be a cracker example of this Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2020, San Casciano

Campione: A sample but a well nigh finished one because it has been in vessels for coming on three and a half-plus years. A Belleza not yet released because well, 2020. Biggest fruit, forested acidity and baddest tannins all conspire for a Gabbiano as substantial and powerful as there ever was. The 100 percent sangiovese aspect is a major component in the result but vintage takes the cake and eats it too. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

With Cristina Fonte – Poggio Torselli, San Casciano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Only sangiovese, single vineyard of the name Montecapri, a Gran Selezione first made in 2013, skipped for a couple of years and resumed in 2016. Concentrated grapes but more than that a different sort and a freshness that neither Annata nor merlot seemed able to find. Spicy fruit, 30 months in those big casks and so a protected but far from oxidative example with a maximum 5,000 bottle production. This is the beginning of a project that will only get better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2020, San Casciano

The original Gran Selezione for Villa Le Corti, that being Don Tommaso, incidentally labeled with its UGA while “Zac” adds the Val di Pesa suffix, as per the commune. Quite the fleshy and substantially concentrated 2020, impressively so, rich, luxe and jam-packed with flavour. A mix of 80 percent sangiovese with merlot (that will not be available in 2023 due to no production because of downy mildew). A bit woody on the palate at this youthful stage but this will pass and Don Tommaso will drink dutifully if also effortlessly through the latter stages of this one and into the first stretches of the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted twice October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

If Vignalparco is something to behold from the big, bad and bold vintage then Gran Selezione is not just another but an apposite matter altogether. Triply rich, fortified and tannic as a wall of hard Alberese, impenetrable and the wine just feels like it’s on the dark side of that moon. If there is one – and many have questioned the notion, but seriously this Gran Selezione is not nothing. Not hard mind you, just a force of Chianti Classico nature. Boom! Wait five years. Trust this is the truth. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feels like a very mature Gran Selezione for 2019 and so perhaps some oxidation from this sample amplified by tasting it late on day two at the Collection Looking forward to another opportunity down the road. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casasilla 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Casasilia which can mean “the blessed house” is tied to Badia a Passignano just one kilometre away and the pre-1990 name of Poggio al Sole under the previous ownership. The flagship wine that was Riserva changed to Gran Selezione as of the 2012 vintage. Best grapes, harvested a bit later and longer macerati”on. Once fermentation and maceration are complete the “130 percent sent to barriques (between 10 and 20 percent new) is then narrowed down to its 100 number. Hard to imagine or find more suave texture and refinement which in GS translates as scorrevole. Which tells us that Poggio al Sole has as much in common with Panzano as it does with San Donato in Poggio. Playful acidity, precision and fine tuning. Runs on Swiss time if you will. A mulch of grippy tannin on the back end suggests waiting a year or two. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2019, Castellina

Single vineyard sangiovese from Casteto at the highest eastern heights of the Western Castellina vineyard. Most freshness and elegance of all the Cecchi sangiovese and from 2019 a wine so ready to drink you will find it hard to keep any bottles in the cellar. Not that structure is an issue because Villa Rosa will mature slowly over a five year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2019, Castellina

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the “croccante” and “graffiante” nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

Mainly Sangiovese with some colorino and a few splashes of merlot “that speaks Chiantigiana.” Also a 500m elevation for most of these grapes, the sangiovese planted in the 80s and converted to organic in the 90s. A stony Galestro soil opposite to the sandy clay and calcari, i.e Calcinaia around the borgo and winery. Only Cellole delivers this cool, liquid peppery swarthiness that the Classico does not show and also a combination of verdant but also distinct minerals notes. Tannins are exceptionally taut with at least two to three years remaining before they begin to truly integrate. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

From the oldest vineyard planted by in 1972 by the Scalerandi family, two owners before Sophie Conte’s father purchased the estate. More obvious concentration than any of the other Tregole wines but also this settled, calming and fully nourished feeling. Have a glass of Gran Selezione 2019 and it will feel like the end of a great meal without having overeaten. The vineyard delivers great material and the layers of fruit are more than apparent. Having tasted vintages going back several years now you can see the development and the acumen growing in Conte’s world. This falls right in the middle but the learning curve is showing. There is a tiny bit of oxidative character on the back palate and so this vintage is more than ready with a delicious finish that reminds of certain dry amaro. Last tasted May 2024

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The Montaperto layering of many red fruits are the crux of the perfumes and freshness out of ’19, they being pomegranate, currant and plum, juices running and so many layers to peel away. Focused vintage and “we love it,” adds Gioia. Return in a year and see just where it looks like this will go. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggiorosso 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Almost hard to believe but 2019 seems bigger, broader and in a way wilder than the 2020 Poggiorosso and yet this single vineyard Gran Selezione is a force to reckoned with, no matter the vintage. The vibrancy and especially the acidity is the wild aspect of a sangiovese that acts a bit the rebel, with cause. Quality here is tops in every respect, fruit is ripe on both ends and that acidity is really quite sweet. Splitting hairs compared to 2020 but this is something special. Amazing work from all new 500L tonneaux. Drink 2024-2037. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sorleone 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A mix of energetic freshness and structured depth, somewhere ideally in between where Sorleone resides in this its sixth vintage as Gran Selezione (though its was not made in 2020). First vintage with new oenologist (Attilio Pauli) will be with the 2021 though the winemaking team in the cantina stays the same. In the window beginning now or perhaps just recently and this mix of glycerin and sweet spice does well to activate the salutary and imaginative senses. Fine shape for a fine wine. 3,000-5,000 bottles per year, this being on the higher end. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2019, Gaiole

There was a local who knew the name of the vineyard and said it was called I Rialzi, which translates as “the lifted up,” or in another way of saying it, rizalto. The rocky location housed a ditch or a gully in the direction rising up towards Badia a Coltibuono. Over time the soils settled to hide the clough but the extreme rocky soils are still home to the vines. Says Lamberto Frescobaldi, “the vineyard matters most,” even more so than the estate or the denomination. In Gran Selezione terms at least. Frescobaldi was told “I don’t give a shit about a selection from you. I want a selection from one vineyard.” So, how does this make that happen, offer a taste or sense of Rialzi? It does so with aromatic volume and vigour, tension and the experience of fruit from a given vintage. As for 2019 well substantial and stress free is helpful but acidity and a wine’s anxiety are what drive Rialzi, no matter its philanthropy. In the end Rialzi is a gift, of Perano and Gaiole. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Greve

The first commercially available vintage was 2017, from the highest reaches out of Querciabella’s vineyard parcels between 450 and 530m aboard the Ruffoli hill. Picked four weeks ahead of same altitude vines in Lamole because of exposure and well, Ruffoli. Treated to a submerged cap, i.e. capello sommerso methodology, a simmer of skins kept wet just as they have been doing forever in Barolo. This means a quality of tannin that comes out by infusion as opposed to extraction and with such an ideal vintage the result is uncompromising. Freshness captured, instinct incarnate, tannic freight compact, though the layers have breezes blowing through. Precise and focused as expected and the finale lingers forever. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

With Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Lamole

From the oldest vines, including those planted back in 1965 and aged for two years in large cask, a.k.a. grandi botti. The old vines show what can be done from lowest of yields, highest of concentration and by way of a contract that seeks and attains the necessity of elegance. Everything about Susanna Grassi’s Gran Selezione speaks to the Lamole UGA, in sweetly herbal and savoury perfume, a floral note connected to the botany and grace under the pressure of structure so well defined. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vecchie Vigne 2019, Lamole

Old vines from Podere Castellinuzza’s high elevation Lamole location are the impetus to set this Gran Selezione apart while keeping in perfumed line with compatriots of that most unique UGA. Who does not want to own fruit from this location in today’s Chianti Classico and this family’s time has surely come. The next epoch of sangiovese from Lamole begins right here with succulence, energy and intensity. Floral and spicy, austere in a tannic way while gently rustic, but so very beautiful in all these ways. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With Emanuele Graetz – Isole delle Falcole, Panzano

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

Just beginning to open and emerge because the vintage delivers that kind of fruit generosity but the vineyard simply will not be quiet or separate itself from this always bloody sangiovese, not even for a moment. The heavy metal presence creates the most metallic, elemental and mineral trilogy, a triptych of sangiovese, acidity and powerful tannin to equip this Gran Selezione for a decade-plus of immovable life ahead. Last tasted February 2024

The project of Emanuele Greatz, exporter of Roberto Voerzio, Il Molino di Grace, San Fillipo (Roberto Gianelli) and Barbaresco’s Russo. This is the early fruition of Emanuele’s dream, renting Panzano land in 2016 to eventually purchase and a first vintage in 2017. The land is officially Emanuele’s now. The name of the Conca or amphitheatre actually shares an affinity with the Conca d’oro, in shape, orientation and yet there is much more forest and also higher elevation. Total of four hectares planted, 1.2 up on the hill facing south at 420m and roughly two below the house, both set in Montefioralle. The final 0.8 for the Gran Selezione is in Panzano right next to Montefili and so Graetz calls it Montefili – internally.” It will be called Il Falcole. Gran Selezione 2019 is solo sangiovese sent to 30 months in big barrel combination of French and Slavonian. Purely Panzano through a Selezione of a pinpointed place and to be honest the fruit is a bit deeper and darker than many Panzano ‘19s. That said there are layers and layers to unfold, unfurl and open with high acidity from the high elevation vineyard up at 520m. Where else is Panzano (other than Montefili and Cenattoio) will express this elevation in this wild-eyed and excitable way? A harbinger of the future and initialization of the realization of Emanuele’s dream is in this glass, from this bottle. Wait three years to understand just a bit more and figure things out for 10 more thereafter. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2019, Radda

All sangiovese and nothing but the sangiovese in one of the first iterations of Gran Selezione under the guidance of new and improved ownership. Brightest of red fruit for a concept and work in progress that seeks to deliver utter transparency for lower (relatively speaking) elevation out of Radda. Firm enough though the tannins are anything but austere. Drink early GS, again, relatively speaking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

From the first vineyard purchased by Barbara Widmer’s parents, Brigit and Bruno, back in 1980. Ripped out and re-planted in 1999 with four clones chosen from the Chianti Classico 2000 project because massal selection was not viable at the time. Great fruit, grainy structure and time needed to heal the wounds and rusticity off the wine. There is so much character and potential with almost no maturity showing yet, however those tannins and that fruit do tumble around together. Wait another year, or so. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

Like Riserva the Colle Bereto showing at the Chianti Classico Collection in 2024 is 2019 for Gran Selezione. Not quite as mature and resolved as the other appellative level but still en route and in a similar arena. More strength and power from these saucy tannins, long-chained and still visible, if also reverberating. The wood is still very much in control so be patient and allow a rendering, but also the disappearance of a mild swarthiness. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2019, San Donato In Poggio

The arrival of an Il Poggio is greeted with great anticipation because luxury and fortune have beget tastings of several recent and also older vintages. So imagine what Monsanto’s 2019 will surely bring to the table out of San Donato in Poggio. No ordinary moment, but one likely to get frozen into time. Open heart and mind, dig into deeper understanding and intuitive possibility. Gran Selezione 2019 from the Bianchi family’s hilltop vineyard is sublime. Concentrated, understated, refined, precise and giving. Nurturing if edgy but always gracious and unselfish. A touch reductive, protected and of course stylish. A moment so vivid it causes ache, awe and longing. Too much waxing for a bottle of wine? Actually no but another Il Poggio for the ages. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2023

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Bottled in September of 2023 though winemaker Riccardo Nuti is keenly aware how much more time is needed and so plans are to release this Gran Selezione after a full year in bottle. Sees 20 percent amphora because frankly Montecchio is not just a Fattoria of wine (and olives), but also a “fornace” for working with clay. An original in this regard and one of the pioneers for GS aging. The ’19 sings with pure and unadulterated sangiovese aromas, explicitly San Donato in Poggio because of the red florals, citrus and sanguine character. Also brings an added layer of palate texture, the kind that settles and coats, but fruit is the medium. With time the defraying will become a glissade but for now the verticality of this Selezione is not ready to relax or relent. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Gioia, Sara and Filippo Cresti – Carpineta Fontalpino, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2019, Vagliagli

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The dried balsamic quality of 2018 is here replaced but more freshness and spirit. A richer wine in 2019 as compared to Montaperto with the wood more involved – while the wine this young is trying to figure out its way through adolescence. The clay is fully involved in just how textured and fruity Dofana acts in this inimitably generous vintage. Flesh will come, with time. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2019, Vagliagli

A 6.4 hectare vineyard at 450m which qualifies as the highest point of Dievole. A south exposure with Macigno and outcroppings of clay to deliver more power than any other estate sangiovese. The aromatics are expressly consistent with Riserva (and also Casanova) but the musculature is taut and developed. That which Riserva commits to is magnified in this fourth vintage of the Gran Selezione, none more so than the tannins which grab, grip, secure and hold on tight. They compound and reside in the arena of the austere at the finish of this profound wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Michaela Morris and Christine Lechner at Prowein 2024

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2018, Castellina

Paronza is the name of the vineyard and comes from a hospital housed by a monastery that hosted pilgrims. Still the work of Atillio Pagli, sappy like the Riserva, fruit quality improved from the ’18 Riserva while so soft and creamy with that same kind of perceived sweetness. Ready. Last tasted May 2024

Well traveled, maturing and warm Gran Selezione from Castellina’s Casale dello Sparviero, of high aromatic intensity to match stride for stride a sangiovese poised at the ready. Herbal for Castellina though neither brushy dry or brassy, but instead a juicy bleed of fruit and flora. Solid GS through and through, equivocating and evocative of the UGA. Last tasted October 2023

Paronza is a buoyant and almost weightless, gravity defying Gran Selezione, easy of mind, body and alcohol. Aromatically reticent and a wine so young you really have to play, swirl and agitate to get any kind of emotive response. Perfume, red fruit and fresh sanguinity do emerge, followed by a sappy, almost syrupy texture dominated by liquid Galestro-willed tannins. Very Castellina, wholly vintage related and will drink well beginning two years or so from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2022

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

There is ten percent pugnitello with the sangiovese, already meeting the new requirements of the Gran Selezione. From the 2020 vintage San Marcellino will say Gaiole on the label. Aging is 25 months in barriques, tonneaux and botti, 25 per cent new oak overall. Almost three years in bottle at this stage. Finest of San Marcellino tannins are coming about ever so slowly, surely to mature over a 15 year period. Tells Marco Ricasoli, “elegance does not mean weakness. The power does not affect your mouth.” Posit tug between salinity and sapidity. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

So fresh, young and structured but my if there is another Gaiole Selezione with as much stuffing as San Marcellino it would be beneficial to hear about it. Thirty-plus year potential. Truthfully. Tasted May 2023

The next San Marcellino Gran Selezione is a big one, strong willed and big-boned, laced with trace schisty-marl-Galestro elements and minerals from a vineyard capable of structuring wines like no other. This is Monti in Chianti, of all the red, blue and black fruits, coming away violet purple and speaking about a season. A warm one, all the way through to October and the phenolic ripeness here is off the proverbial charts. Wow. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Not yet released and will have at lest three more months in bottle before that can happen. A strong vintage and normally the release would be the fall but both wood and fruit need to time to find each other. The substance in Sassello 2018 is, well substantial, in fact something more than that. Richness at the height of Verrazzano’s abilities but my goodness this packs a punch while also showing off the modernity and harmony that define this estate today. Bravissimo. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

The thing that connects Sassello and Valdonica is the vintage, the power and the full on substantial effects compactly packed yet carefully multi-layered. A swarthiness really separates this GS from Sassello in ways that put this in its own light. The aromas and flavours also bring in exotic spices but also a succulence that show how special and different this sangiovese truly is. It walks a fine line, flirts with danger and comes out singing. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Emilia and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fine swirl of sangiovese with voluminousness liquid peppery aromas from the word go that are commanding and unrelenting. Put your nose into Giovanni d’Orsi’s Gran Selezione from late (though properly timed) harvesting for what was necessary out of Panzano. For 2018 that is because late September heat by day and cold by night meant stem ripeness, higher alcohol and captured acidity. All of which put 2018 Casaloste into fine form, big and meaty, bountiful and elastic. Bravo. Drink 205-2032. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pecchia 2018, Panzano

Pecchia from only Pietraforte Panzano soils was IGT through the 2016 vintage, skipped in 2017 and brought into the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation in 2018 with the estates first Gran Selezione. Less transparency but clearly more polish and luxe disposition than Gallùle but what this expresses are hearty matters of spotless and seamless perfection. Structurally speaking the Pietraforte puts this sangiovese in a most precise place to establish a top position in every respect. Just 3,000 bottles produced and though there was great heat at the launch of harvest there were also low nighttime temps and all the acidity was preserved. Great graphite style and cool as an October Panzano night. Really special wine. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bambole 2018, Panzano

Campione: Of all the Gran Selezione samples this Le Bambole is one should be the nearest to be ready because, well it’s 2018. Now two years longer in waiting than most other unreleased samples and yet mon dieu this ’18 is still so far away from being ready. Uncanny how much Pietraforte strength Il Bambole is want to direct as itself and on our palates that feel both slaughtered and bamboozled. So befitting the name and also the vintage which delivered great late September heat. Cold nights too which is why this acidity is striking and frankly necessary. On par with 2016 which is a feat in itself. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Villa Trasqua Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Nerento 2017, Castellina

Nerento offers up that super important and at times rare mix of maturity and results based on time having been the necessity to allow for an approach to drinking this Gran Selezione at this stage. The wood would have been obtrusive and on top just six months before and this timing is fortuitous to say the least. Some raisin and fig with high quality acid and a balsamic sweetness woven through the tannin. Not an extreme vintage as might be expected but surely a high-toned one. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2017, Gaiole

Third vintage of Rialzi from a hottest and driest one, though always worth a reminder that Perano is high elevation Gaiole – meaning a cooler and fresher place. In Chianti Classico terms this means the vineyard and its cooling maintenance from rockiest of soils lends a much needed pulse, flux and regulating ability to ensure sangiovese’s credibility. Vigour and dewiness are preserved which allows Rialzi ’17 to grace the palate like clean early morning summer moisture on grass and bushes. Fruit was hung a little bit longer than many other single-vineyard Gran Selezione to be sure, full phenolic maturity has been acceded and the conclusion is about a full and favourable sangiovese. A unique one at that and one to surely benefit from some rest in the cellar. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2015, Castellina

In agreement with Andrea Cecchi whereby in some ways 2015 is still a baby, but on another level the maturity is there, or at least seen that wasy through one of the two open bottles. This second pour is not only the answer to a predictive moment made in September 2018 but a reconciliation of what Villa Rosa sangiovese is want to become. Youthful and yet ready, in the first stages of secondary character but at least five more years shall pass before the next phase begins. Last tasted May 2024

These are not the richest and most extracted Chianti Classico and they are truly driven by acidity, a Castellina acidity to be sure, edgy, expected or not. The red fruit is direct and linear lightning, not overly complex and certainly true to consistent form. It’s actually quite amazing to note this form of sangiovese structure as being very specific to commune, very close to the Valore Gran Selezione and recognizable for place as much as any in the entire territory. This will evolve slower than the Valore, in fact I can’t see it changing all that much in the next five years. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted September 2018

Losi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Millennium 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Still quiet and reserved, far from even hinting at the end of its first millennium in bottle. Full and still in a chaste state, a textural casted Gran Selezione that exults the finest selections of Losi’s vineyards. Gives and gives some more but its best and most complex days still lay ahead. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 1988, Castellina

From 1988, raised on Piaggia, the top of the Villa Rosa hill and aged in chestnut barrels. In great shape, truly well kept and the toasted chestnut aromas are those caught in a time machine. Chianti Classico and sangiovese from another era, a savoury balsamico, however that is consistent if altered because of time. Time that has softened and dried out the fruit yet the palate delivers a level of freshness that needs to be tasted to be believed. Speaks to wine being made the right way at the time and yet you wouldn’t do things this way now because the sangiovese demands evolution and a new approach. A look back that says you can peer through a portal to see changes coming and for the next 40 years. Tasted May 2024

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG

Castello Di Monsanto Vinsanto Del Chianti Classico DOCG Occhio Di Pernice 2006

Rare and different for VinSanto, here as 100 percent sangiovese and in many ways nothing like the style that comes from those made with trebbiano and malvasia. Plenty more caramel and especially spice, of nutmeg, sweet lemon and iced tea. A really fine black tea, tannic and softened by clover honey. Sweetness, acidity and impeccably balanced. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2024

San Giusto A Rentennano Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG Giusto 1999

Remember that a great vintage for reds might not succeed with Vinsanto and vice versa but this 1999 just feels like ideal middle ground. Intense sweetness (around 350 g/L) with lower volatility and solid acidity. Length simply outstanding, A treacle of deep caramel and caramelized fig, brown sugar syrup and finishing spice – cardamom and nutmeg. Crazy complexity if surely one in the sweeter and softer pantheon of San Giusto Vinsanto. Last tasted February 2024

Vinsanto Giusto 1999 is from 90 per cent malvasia and 10 trebbiano dried on traditional mats then transferred to small oak (caratelli) barrels, with absolutely no botrytis allowed. The selection is extremely careful to avoid the noble rot. Perhaps the most viscous gelée of VinSanto ever put in mouth because 400 g/L of residual sugar will do that in the most concentrated and incredible of ways. The most intense VinSanto you will ever find. Could go three-plus decades further. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted February 2018

Brancaia Tasting

IGTs

Brancaia Rosé 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Made with 100 percent Maremma grown merlot picked earlier (mid-August!) than wine for the reds, keeping the alcohol down with light colour and high acidity. No skin contact, three months on lees for a creamy and sapid Rosato that goes down far too easy. Currants and faint strawberry but just easy and lovely. Summer go to Rosato. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Bianco 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

All sauvignon blanc from Castellina vineyards, picked early (which would be late August) for the purpose of acidity, freshness, brightness and intensity. First Bianco was made in 2011 (though was a very different style at the time) and now the variety is a veritable facsimile of itself. Shows some aging potential for more layers to pop up and out, but not for 10 years. Crunchy and salty enough, not quite startling but surely creating a pop and a buzz on the palate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Tre 2022, Toscana IGT

A blend of all three Brancaia properties, two-thirds from Maremma and one-third Castellina/Radda fruit. The varietal blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aging in tonneaux and concrete. Serious yet uncomplicated, coastal ripeness meeting Classico region acidity for layers, piques, rises and valleys in a red blend. Three layers of savour, gariga and balsamico with three distinct types of spice, some of it very related to wood. This just feels like a perfect match to veal shoulder or Ossobuco, braised in a few cups of Tuscan red wine, fresh tomato, mirepoix and saffron, then topped with Gremolata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

With Barbara Widmer – Brancaia

Brancaia N°2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, DOC Maremma Toscana

Coastal cabernet is a unique thing unto itself and with the streak of salinity running through there is less density and brood than what might otherwise happen in today’s increasingly warming climate. There is an elegance to No. 2 and a beautiful sense of the brushy Mediterranean terroir. Tannic and finishing at dark chocolate with a shot of espresso. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2021, Toscana IGT

The mix is merlot from Radda blended with cabernet sauvignon from Castellina. Five of 15 hectares from Castellina and half (eight of 16) in Radda. All Chianti Classico area fruit and how they layer together is a matter of desire coupled with Barbara Widmer’s experience. True blue merlot with as much structure as any found anywhere this meeting of Tuscan varieties will occur. So different than Bolgheri (and obviously Maremma) but no shock to see. Seriously structured red, fine-grained tannins and intensity self-reflecting inwards and needing up to five years to expand. Very confident wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Just as with sangiovese there is a marked difference between 2020 and 2021, also for merlot and cabernet sauvignon. There may have been a time when ripening (especially the cabernet) was a challenge in terms but think that way no more. Some frost damage at Easter reduced yields but the quality here is exceptional, the flavours developed and true. This will age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Wait for three because the wood is still very much in play. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2020, Toscana IGT

Brancaia Ilatraia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A change to the labelling begins in 2021 now with a mix of the classic label. The 2021 is expressive of more Machia Mediterranea than any Ilatraia that have come before. The brushy savour and local gariga are so prevalent on the aromatics and the palate shows great succulence for this very special red blend. Not only is the label a next generation style and idea but the winemaking also seems to follow this route. Freshness and crispy quality creates something new, vibrant and exciting for what Ilatraia is now and also going to be. Really special vintage, extraordinary and of a potential unlimited. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The repeatable 2021 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon plus (20) merlot does not equivocate as a carbon copy of the 2020, nor should it and acts to remind how Maremma vintages will alter and in turn pay heed to the terroir. This feels like Galestro in the mix, surfacing for scents of the petrichor of rocks and sea and air after a rain. Rich and elegant, flavours swirling of fruit, earth, elements, the sea, mineral and natural sweetness. Finely poised, chiseled, and structured to live a very long, good and proper opus of a life. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020, Maremma Toscana IGT

That blend since 2009 is 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. The three months of “refinement” in concrete began with the 2019 vintage and here 2020 presents a wine of more energy and freshness. Chewy but also scorrevole, gliding and sliding across the palate with this glistening and glycerol style of fruit that says so much about modern day Maremma. A full and concentrated yet never gratuitous Maremma red blend so perfect in pitch, sway and glide as it shows so much grace today, but also to do so for many years going forward. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The change for this 20-plus year-old IGT happened in 2009 when sangiovese was eliminated, petit verdot introduced and cabernet increased. Closed aromas for now, soon to change because 2020 will open much earlier than 2019 and also 2021. The petit verdot is aching to be untethered and understood, the other parts less so but will come soon thereafter. There is great personality and acidity to this 2020, a freshness unexpected and a diversity within a wine that comes in layers, marine waves and complexity. Wow vintage, again unexpected but then again, not really considering Maremma, Brancaia and 2020. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2019, Maremma Toscana IGT

From 2019 the aging process changes, still 18 months in barrel but now followed up with three months in concrete before bottling. “To give the wine time to become a unit” explains Barbara Widmer. The 2019 feels more forward than 2018, maybe because of less stress during the season with ’19 allowing the team to breath after 2018, but there is so much fruit it seems the structure and therefore potential will be lessened. Rich and more wood sensations here, a chocolate expression with ganache painted all over the dark fruit. Tannins are of very good quality though they are softer and silkier than most vintages. A seductive Ilatraia this 2019 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018, Maremma Toscana IGT

Rich vintage with layers and layers upon others of fruit, wood, fruit, wood and more fruit. “We were very afraid because of the heat and drought after 2017,” admits Barbara Widner, which means some negative linger or hangover might have been a part of the work during the ’18 season. But luck was on the Brancaia side with good winter rains, a fine spring and balance throughout the summer, all the way to harvest. “We were super, super lucky and were able to relax.” Concentration, restrained power because freshness and really good potential still lies ahead. Could see this drinking well, like 2004 for example, 20 years forward. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2017, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable acidity from 2017 when you consider the drought and heat that occurred from winter all the way through to harvest. A vintage that could have been a disaster and the blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc seems to fit, no matter the vintage. Not only that but also the switch away from sangiovese was so smart because it could have truly been problematic in 2017. Yes this is ready to drink and yes it’s rich and extracted but once again it needs saying that acidity keeps the dream alive. Lovely work here with 2017 and a perfect Ilatraia to pour at wine dinners all over the world. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2016, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2016 is in the finest shape of any Ilatraia thus far, with great acidity and an energy that means business. Concentration yes but also layers upon layers of natural sweetness, kisses and the caress of what this wine does to nurture the palate. The most suave tannins of them all and a beauty, but also grace about the wine. Yes it it the most experienced and confident wine of the 20 in this vertical. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2015, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2015 is nothing but lovely, simple easy and slowly evolving in pretty much the way you would have expected to be. For winemaker and Widmer the closest comparison would be 2004 but there is such a fruity quality (yes it is younger) and that fruit has done little to advance out of its freshest stage. Not much will happen for another two years. Will drink for a few more years on top of the few imagined five ago. Lasted May 2024

The blend changed in 2009 and here in ’15 it’s cabernet sauvignon (40 per cent), petit verdot (40) and cabernet franc (20). In a way too bad because the ’08 was quite glorious but here in a wholly antithetical way, now there is more brightness and vitality. Not that the barrel regimen is shy in any way but there’s really a lift and not merely because of vintage. Quite balanced and should age well for a few more years. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2014, Maremma Toscana IGT

The most challenging of vintages, with 2015 no bargain, “even for Maremma on the wet side, along with the Suzuki fly in the vineyard.” Required a major amount of selection and in the end Barbara Widmer was quite happy with the result for this blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Meanwhile the energy and persistence are more than fine and ample for the vintage with secondary character is coming on quite slowly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasting 20 years of Ilatraia at Brancaia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2013, Maremma Toscana IGT

A very good vintage for Maremma, considered tops even though the same could not necessarily be said for Chianti Classico. Loving the acidity and chalky liquidity of the 2013, a wine that was managed so well, partly because the vintage was so generous this way, but also because experience with place, blend and style have come to a very good place. Not sure this will have the same stuffing that 2012 is showing but the enjoyment now is really tops. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2012, Maremma Toscana IGT

A full, substantial and concentrated wine from 2012 that clearly shows a progression speaking to what Maremma could and will be able to do with these kinds of blends. Acids and tannins are equal and available, up to the task in support and the harmony here is second to none. Experience and acumen are on display to say that Ilatraia is truly on the correct track. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2011, Maremma Toscana IGT

If 2010 was showing top acidity and energy than 2011 takes these necessary longevity extended factors to another level altogether. What stands out here is the cabernet franc which gets more and more important in a blend with the 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. The length here is outstanding and the vintage still expressive of its longevity and future potential. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2010, Maremma Toscana IGT

The challenge of sangiovese not succeeding on the Maremma coast without irrigation meant a new blend having been initialized in 2009 and still in play through at least 2022. That would be 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc though it could vary by two percent from year to year. The acids in 2010 are remarkable, sweet and crucial to a warm and “big” year such as this. Another 2010 that surprises with its energy and also balance. The maturity into secondary epoch has happened with seamlessness and grace to put 2010 in top light. Great showing. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2009, Maremma Toscana IGT

First vintage of the new blend, kicking out the sangiovese and so now with 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. About half new French wood from two sources, Sylvan and Raimond. A wildly authentic Maremma IGT, aromatics full of the coastal Macchia Mediterranea, the balsamico by the sea, the brushy savour so specific to the Etruscan Coast. Richness and great climatic interest, a feeling of the dry maritime place and wood a big part, but more as an aid and abet, not the dominant driver. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008, Maremma Toscana IGT

Quite an advanced Ilatraia from cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), the last vintage with not only this exact blend, but also sangiovese. Chewy, lots of chocolate, wood very much the dominant factor, the sort of Tuscan red that appeals to so many, especially those who were paying attention to this style back in 2007. Time in the glass helps open up more channels. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). A vintage of high acidity and exceptional structure. Has taken on as much wood as the fruit can handle or at least support. It’s a gathering of big bones with flesh still attached and a long finish. The year and the acumen are clearly on display for a project that seems to have hit its proper stride. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2007, Maremma Toscana IGT

Much more maturity to 2007, especially after tasting the 2006 and yet the blend is just the same as it had been going back to 2002. That would be cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), here quite integrated, with fine acids (if not quite ’05 or ’06 acids) and yet the charm here is really lovely. Very ready to go, please and make the experience a fully enjoyable one. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Ilatraia 2021-2002

Brancaia Ilatraia 2006, Maremma Toscana IGT

The blend beginning in 2002 and culminating in 2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Big vintage and there is an aromatic spicy chalkiness to ’06, owing to ripeness and also high quality tannins. Surely a wine of the times and so very specific to where the wood really dominated and the wine is just now slowing down. Wow – how does this wine now show this way with so much confidence, character and attitude? Amazing really. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2005, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable vibrancy and energy from 2005, warm but balanced vintage as it was and the first to speak of the Brancaia experience for Maremma and what the young vineyards (planted in 1998) were willing to offer and eventually to mix and work with the last plants put in back in 1995. The blend from 2002-2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). More character and ultimate interest from 2005, at least as it goes for the first four vintages of Ilatraia. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2004, Maremma Toscana IGT

Good if unremarkable vintage that “you would consider wanting to have every year,” says Barbara Widmer. You feel the wood on 2004 more than the vintage before and after, rich in chocolate, chewy fruit leather centre and cocoa dustier on the back end. Same blend as with ’02 and ’03, of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10) More evolution here but also length…and harmony. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2003, Maremma Toscana IGT

A warm year and you can smell the liquid smoke and also peppery heat on the nose but honestly the continuance from 2002 and into 2004 is surely there. The acidity is in great shape, sweet and vibrant, the finish forceful with cocoa and liquorice. Super fine and nice for the mouth from an Ilatraia where again the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2002, Maremma Toscana IGT

The initial idea behind Ilatraia was to find a place in Tuscany where you could ripen sangiovese in every and not just a here or there vintage. It was not conceived of an actual business plan back in 1998, definitely not to create a wine like Ilatraia. The first vintage was 2002 and the grapes were so good the decision was made to create this wine. And yet the vintage so maligned made it a challenge for Barbara Widmer to bottle all of the possible 20,000 bottles – and so she made just 10,000. From the start the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), now in 2024 where there is no missing the preserve of freshness. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). Grapes come Maremma and Chianti Classico. A cool, rainy vintage and certainly no picnic for sangiovese and Chianti Classico, but pretty much a challenge in all of Tuscany. With a syrupy chocolate, iodine and balsamic quest having been reached. Has aged quite well and drinks with secondary pride, followed by a sweet finish. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Caparsa Mimma 2021, Toscana IGT

With 30 percent whole bunch for the first time and a much higher production because the vintage was generous this way. Also more oak and fruit, saucy, pulpy and fleshy with the greatest potential of the three Mimma (2019-2021). This will be bottled in two weeks and so it’s still an anteprima but really is a finished wine. This is the be prepared to pair with red meat sangioevse that will clean your palate withe every sip. Fine and grippy tannins will see this live a log life. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2020, Toscana IGT

Mimma is tannic, that much is clear from the first sip. Only the third vintage and mon dieu what a beautiful, fresh, clean and crispy sangovese. Love to sip and willing to lay it down. As you wish but best scenario would be to let this sangiovese have some time in the bottle. The women got is exactly right. Limited production of just 1,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Still a beautiful IGT but wholly different to the 2020, here the second vintage of Mimma made with grapes chosen only by Gianna and Fiamma Cianferoni. Last tasted February 2024

Mimma could have been Chianti Classico, it could be Gran Selezione, dedicated to “all the girls of the area,” says Paolo in all earnest seriousness, hand-picked grapes by Paolo’s wife Gianna and daughter Fiamma. This is the flagship, small production less than 2,000 bottles, grapes from all over the vineyards, picked in the middle of harvest, during the second pass. There is a restrained intensity in this sangiovese and it does indeed make you think. That’s important, It means Gianna and Fiamma get it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Harenae 2022, Colli Della Toscane Centrale IGT

Harenae refers to the sandstone soil known locally as Arenaria but also what is used for terra cotta manufacturing in Impruneta. Fifth vintage for the solo sangiovese artist macerated by the process of “capello sommerso” for 60 days and aged a year in 1000L amphora. Bottled in October of 2023 and Paolo Paffi calls Harenae the “B-Side,” an ulterior way to look at sangiovese that can be a hit though it will always have its quirky, natural or alternative style. A sangiovese that is correctly and properly oxidative, drying, tannic to a great and serious degree. A tapestry woven of woolly texture that will not be denied. It’s freshness is driven by a sanguine character that is so very San Donato in Poggio. It’s just expressed in a very different way.Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Bianco Di Toscana IGT 2022

Drink straight away, fresh and salty, easy white for every day. Vermentino, malvasia and trebbiano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosato Di Toscana IGT 2022

All sangiovese, just a couple of hours run-off juice, simple and salty like the Bianco, but exaggeratedly so. Relates to the high salinity in the soils and for Rosato this is the way to speak for this wide open geographical section of Castellina. Succinct, spot on and uncomplicated glou-glou of a Rosé. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosso Di Toscana IGT 2021

Sangiovese blended with merlot and cabernet sauvignon, proprietary IGT blend that drinks as succinctly and direct as imagination should ask it to. Unadorned, balanced and perfectly designed for that proverbial pasta, pizza and steak house pour by the glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Superiore DOCG 2020

Pure sangiovese rom the area around Poggibonsi, organic, about 10,000 bottles and well made. Bit of vanilla and simple sappy wood flavours, but quite clean and perfectly serviceable. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casaloste Don Vincenzo 2018, Toscana IGT

The signature wine is in ode to Giovanni’s father who helped Casaloste get its start in 1993 and this single two hectare vineyard is purposed grown for this wine alone. The vineyard delivers the most concentrated fruit and the most developed phenolics and it shows in the intensity but also form this warm vintage in the bold and compact layers of Casaloste’s sangovese. A wine first produced in 1995 (two years after the first Casaloste) and one that takes time to develop, piano, piano, lentamente, slowly but surely. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casaloste Inversus 2019, Toscana IGT

From the merlot vineyard facing west planted in 1999, with 10 percent sangiovese. The first (2003) vintage was 50-50, as an experiment to see the relationship between the two before slowly (2005-60/40, 2007-80/20, then in 2009- 90/10) working with more merlot. The 10 percent sangiovese is just the right amount to keep the connection. Inspiration came from Giacomo Tacchis who knew that the grapes had been here not 50 but 200 years ago. Silky with a fine tannic grain running through and the similar beauty shown by Riserva 2019. Lovely, lovely wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Laura Bianchi and Giulia Cecchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2022, Toscana IGT

At this point in the chardonnay’s tenure the percentage of wood is 30 percent which is a number that came into effect back in 2008, down from 50. From a Galestro strewn plot of five hectares facing northwest and still a fresh place and so a saltiness pervades, but the predominant feeling is what Laura Bianchi calls sapidity. That’s because there is a phenolic moment and also mineral grip that’s more than just or perhaps apposite to saltiness. A challenging vintage, very warm (amongst other extreme weather events) and still Monsanto’s 2022 chardonnay is bursting with energy and freshness. Flesh and richness too of course but balance is in full effect. Will this age with the best remains to be seen but today it seems to matter very little. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2005, Toscana IGT

Vigneti Di Monsanto were planted to a special clone of chardonnay that has always seemed so resistant to disease, especially Perenospera and Laura Bianchi tells they’ve only lost a few vines in 40 years. At the time of the 2005 vintage the vines would have been 23 years of age and it’s kind of remarkable how this 18-plus year-old chardonnay emits a vapour trail like older riesling. That’s the phenolic push-pull of salty and sapid, the dichotomy of a Monsanto chardonnay that’s always in play. A fine moment and once again proof of this unique clonal-varietal relationship at work. That said 2005 is fading like a beautiful sunset over the hills of San Gimignano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2018, Toscana IGT

One of the original “Super Tuscans,” second to (San Felice’s) Vigorello, of 100 percent sangiovese that could not be casted as Chianti Classico when that solo performance was not permitted. The Scanni vineyard and its calcareous soils with marine sediments puts the “S” in salty, so much more so than what happens in Monsanto’s Chianti Classico. Notable connection to Giulio Gambelli, of the planting of the Grosso and in how he and Fabrizio Bianchi would meet on a daily basis to discuss wine growing and making. Verdant streak of Poggibonsi-San Donato in Poggio woods, cool and slick, saline and ethereal. Absolutely and unequivocally Sangioveto from its place but also a wine that needs time. More than many and this lengthy 2018 will surprise many by living famously but also brilliantly for nearly two decades. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Cobalto Val Delle Rosa 2021, Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana IGT

Vermentino done up three ways, in steel, wood and also amphora, for freshness, salinity and verticality married to structure and mouthfeel. Brings about a balance of all parts in not just one but several layers and level of elegance for white wines, not just from Maremma and Toscana but anywhere and everywhere. Cobalto is such a white wine, an experience that leaves you satisfied because it touches all the points that matter. Andrea Cecchi’s father was ahead of the curve with his decision to make vineyards in Maremma. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari – Cigliano di Sopra

Cigliano Di Sopra Nuvola Del Cigliano 2022, Toscana IGT

Picked earlier to preserve acidity (5-ish g/L of TA) and says Matteo Vaccari, “we work with the lees for a good resolution. You can make mistakes with sangiovese but not with trebbiano.” Texture is of a terrific natural coarseness while energy improvises, improvise upon and rights the fabric of this white. Last tasted February 2024. A mix of 75 percent trebbiano and (25) malvasia, five days whole bunches for a quick syringe of carbonic and then a short, old wood stay. Comes away with just that quick strike of matchstick and a finish at 11 percent alcohol. Citrus is very lemon, juiced and gelid like curd but what stands out is the dry extract and sweet tannins. This can and will age – there is no doubt. Picked on September 17th, 2023 – a week later than previously – on the 24th. Less than 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

500 Years of Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2018

Prequel: an intimate tale of Renaissance Florence; a description of the history of the Chianti area and the Capponi family up to the purchase of Villa Calcinaia. No not 1244, 1352, 1435 or even a reminiscence for Pier Capponi to 1494 but the toasty, gingered-oxidative style does suggest an older bubble. The name conjures antiquity, Chapon as Capone for Cappone, French influenced, as in Champagne method sparkling wine nearly 50 months on its lees and finishing dry as the Greve valley in a hot season. Orange skin, reduced lemon, lemongrass herbal, a kiss of pace (or “pace”) and a brush with sage success. Spicy, high acid, unrelenting and long. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia AD 1613 Rosso Toscana IGT 2011, Toscana Rosso IGT

The High Renaissance; from the Renaissance to the Grand Duchy, life at the villa and how it was organized. Old, alive and well, one-third each sangiovese (with mammolo and malvasia nera) in ode to the nearly 150 Chianti properties, especially villas owned by the Capponi in the 16th and 17th centuries. Alive more in spirit than corporeal standing because fruit fully waned has given way to frutta di bosco, secco and a creamy chestnut purée. Acids are persistent, the wine hangs loosely but tough enough to keep on keeping on. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Rosso 2006, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

World’s largest voluntary emigration, red gravy and Chianti; the Chianti Classico; the Capponi family plants the first non-promiscuous vineyard in the area. The Bastignano vineyard’s top estate drop comes out six years after conversion to organics and 10 years after the help of Roberto Bandinelli brought Calcinaia into its present state. Only 168 bottles (pus 50 magnums) were produced for this higher pH (3.44) and low alcohol 2006 (12.21 abv) for something that lasts with a continuance of acidity, though the fruit is dried, leathery, liquid cocoa flavoured and marked by a cupboard full of spice. A warm vintage that has evolved quite rapidly, or at least indicative by this bottle. Drink up with haste. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Trebbiano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

The first vintage was 2017, originally aged in French wood but now in casks made by a Rufina craftsman called Carmignana. The mix is 80 percent Tuscan oak and (20) chestnut for trebbiano as a white in many ways acting more like a red. At least in terms of structure and coming form the west bank of the Arbia where a mix of soils bring all the elements to the vines. Harvested in mid October, incredibly and famously so, a new frontier for this area, a wine of acid and texture, notably phenolic, made rich by 10 months in the wood. Delivers that honeysuckle and acacia sensation, partial malolactic creaminess and a finishing note of honey. Good succulence and then length. Did not expect this level of complexity and it just might age for a spell. 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Querciavalle Malvasia Nera Ritmo 2022, Toscana IGT

The current vintage of the malvasia is the one that makes Valeria Losi think of Spring. The earliest roses, also not quite but maybe hinting at violets, but what it brings are flowery sensations, intense and stronger than fruit. This is a matter of eight to ten years ago really getting down and into vinifying malvasia on its own and finding the best of the variety for what it can do alone. It’s a tradition but a familial one and very specific to Losi. Super integrated tannins, non-aggressive and fine. A most unique and special wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Cavalier Tranquillo 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

A simple red, the way Valeria and Riccardo Losi’s grandfather used to make Chianti Classico when white grapes were permitted. Just a spice of white grapes, five percent in this vintage for a light, crunchy, fresh and simple red. Fun Rosso. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Rondò 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Rondò, a kind of music but there happens to be a grape also called this way – but this gives the way of a round leaved foglia tonda and so this is a matter of onomatopoeia. Round and yet forceful, tannic and so implosive, intensely so. Mon dieu. What a massive but drinkable wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2009, Toscana IGT

What do you remember about 2009? “The problem was in August with one very hot week (40-plus degrees) that stopped the plants,” says Luca Martini. Sangiovese however is a very resilient variety. Most thought the wines would have no staying power and they would have been wrong. This shows great freshness and subtle spice, more than amazing for a 15-ish year-old sangiovese. Still showing in the early to middle stages of secondary. Fine acidity, not so high but special. Supportive and always the catalyst to make the fruit sing. A remarkable showing for Percarlo and a wine drinking perfectly right now. Will linger this way for five or more years. “It may not have the potential to develop more complexity, “ says Luca, “but it will stay like this for many more.” Like Barolo, in a way. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Utopie Grand Cru Doublé, Prodotto En Infiascato Dell Azienda Atipica, Morraiole 2008

A collaboration between Luca Martini and Roberto Voerzio, 50-50 Percarlo (sangiovese) and Voerzio Barolo (nebbiolo), more for fun at the time, for shits and ironically serious giggles than anything else. The question of course is why and can these two highly opinionated grapes work well together? Is the sum greater than the parts? Well, no of course but try to think about this in a different way. Only produced twice, in 2008 and 2010, the idea (and label design) by (journalist) Barton Anderson. Luca thought it was oxidized from the beginning so he called Roberto who replied, “you don’t know nebbiolo.” No trust for two years but then it began improving and hit its peak two or three years ago. The nebbiolo is more dominant, especially the style of the tannins and the fruit darker, a dusty example, more typically nebbiolo. Floral note just has to be Percarlo, that and the tufo mineral but still the nebbiolo wins. Maybe 2010 will be the opposite. The idea came from Maurizo Castelli and the sangiovese meets nebbiolo at Volpaia. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

With Bernardo, Corso, Margherita and Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2021, Toscana Centrale IGT

The village of Flacciano, the old Latin name that became Panzano, though there is still a place in the vineyard’s valley that bears the name. The name of the church where the cross was located in that valley before the 18th century. The church where you made a payment of “indulgenza,” so that HE would pardon and gift your place in paradise. The 2021 is a truly generous if still shy Flaccianello of that necessary wish for balance between substantial fruit and structure, high acidity and an overflowing mouthful of pure sangiovese. Seems to taste lighter and hide alcohol, so much more so than it is truly built upon and the age ability is very great. No other sangiovese expresses the luxe and voluptuous capabilities of sangiovese grown on Pietraforte in Panzano like Flaccianello. That’s just a fact and yes it is true that some see this archetype in terms of densities and ponderosity. Consider what matters most. Balance determines outcome and 2021 is right there where it needs to be. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2020, Toscana Centrale IGT

Very little movement from the magnanimous 2020 Flaccianello that made the most of its Pietraforte and there will be no doubt that it will age as well as just about any vintage of the last 40 years. The 2021 is conglomerate sandstone incarnate, of mineral and fruit bonds unbreakable and the fruit to shine through binds tied strictly tight. Last tasted February 2024

The new generation says “Flaccianello is it’s own thing and I don’t want it to become something else.” The words of Bernardo Manetti and yet Dad will say. “It will become Gran Selezione – before I retire.” Them’s promising words for a wine of Pietraforte tannins and from 2020, another season for great concentration. Focused and precise and while tight there is something more immediately beautiful and gratifying about Flaccianello 2020. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

I Fabbri Rosato Castle Ros’ E’ 2023, Toscana IGT

Reserved sort of Rosato, lithely tart, malic and a colourful display that marks a stylistic choice for Susanna Grassi’s first kick at the blush can. The acidity of Lamole is the catalyst and the driver for expression and result. Just perfect with salumi artigianale and hard, salty cheese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Two things about Gratius, not just in this vintage, but two things that really stand out. One is how far from dark and opaque this vintage is when you think about how big and dark the wine should be. Second is how great a nose, or says Morganti, “it has a good nose,” realistic in tone, but the Gratius comment is as understated as anything he will ever say about anything. This is elegance and red fruit sangiovese incarnate, open and floral, so different in a complete way than any or all of the three appellative CCs. A new label design for 2020, busier, with more symbolism and commentary than ever before. Last tasted May 2024

Unlike 2020 Riserva the underbelly of structure, depth and layered acidity combine for aggressiveness and tension. Bigger Gratius in 2020 with potential as high if not higher than that of 2019. A wall of sound, structure and vision. Tasted February 2024

Campione: “With Gratius we work in a different way, aging in barriques and tonneaux,” explains Iacopo Morganti. From 2022 the aging will happen in 15 hL Austrian wood. Big wine from 2020 and that is not written, spoken and pronounced lightly. It is the vintage, hot and heavy, a romance between sangiovese and weather that does not happen so often. A lustfully romantic wine but be patient and allow the friendship and the longevity of the union to develop. Two years in wood and now needing a “cleaning” by way of vegetable gelatine (vegan, 3 g/l per 4hl) and then bottled by the end of the year. Very tannic finish. This should be Gran Selezione. It’s single vineyard and arguably the top wine. Starting with 2020 the artwork changes on the label with each vintage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana Rosso IGT

Today it is worth talking about the difference between Gratius and Chianti Classico (as a combined mix of all three levels) because the freshness and qualities delivered by the field blend varieties create a posit tug between salty and sapid. Gratis 2019 is getting close to resolving the wood and its chalky river of tannin. Big and bountiful, a buzz of energy plugged in and time still the ally. Last tasted February 2024

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2021, Toscana IGT

Not released but already bottled. A bigger Vecchia Vigna, if surely because the old plot is a more than conjunctional mix of 70 percent sangiovese with ciliegiolo, colorinio, caniaolo, malvasia and trebbiano. if you compare to the 2022 barrel sample this ’21 now rests in a quieter, somewhat closed phase. Also a palate texture of silk and glycerol but acids are raging. This demure of aromatics marching alongside and matched up against intelligent if also incredible lift does the kinds of things to the palate that the Grand Selezione simply does not. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

The crunchiest old vines field blend that anyone will ever taste, anywhere such wines are made. Why, well simpy because it is made with sangiovese plus reds and a white grape. So why were white wines planted with reds? To help fix the colours of the red, to add acidity and also to sweeten for table grapes, wrapped in wire nets to keep the animals and birds away. A cultural inclusion and a heritage imperative. This is so young, much like the GS 2020, immovable, powerful and tannic. But there are more fruits involved, especially cherries but also citrus. Tons of citrus. Almost like corbezzolo but also pomegranate. So fascinating! Last tasted February 2024

An apposite vintage to 2018 for this unparalleled field blend of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano though since 1948 much has changed and more sangiovese planted means less interruption or intrusion from the gaggle of other grapes. Just as juicy and gregarious while also vertical and filled with old school tension but also charm. Mid-weight and also alcohol, approximately 14 percent but this is a valley of elevation and woods so freshness just fills the air. This is very special. The 2018 was just a bit loose by comparison. Tannin on the back end suggest waiting two years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

Richer and rounder by a mile as compared to 2021 and 2020 (with 2019 not released because of some Brettanomyces, akin to Soldera to be honest). Crunchy acids and succulence, tart with natural sweet edginess and lots of wood still to resolve. The 2020 and 2021 hide the barrel or better integrate it with finer acumen. Last tasted February 2024

The plot was originally planted in 1948 to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano. Hard to find a field blend like this anywhere. Twenty plus percent is original vines and the rest planted, but also restored in 1982. Emanuele Graetz re-planted 1,000 (sangiovese) plants in 2022. Spends 18 months in older wood and yes, this is what you would expect, though how could you possibly know what to expect? Produces only 6,000 bottles from nearly two hectares and the purity is so real, with verticality, some leathery maturity but much more so a juiciness that determines the true spirit of the wine. Is this ready? No, not quite but man you want to drink it. Clean, honesty and remarkably focused despite the potential for tohu vavohu. Picked on the 24th of September. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2021, Toscana IGT

Merlot 2021 is another beast, tannic as the GS and VV but with a different sort of fruit sweetness and rounder disposition. Red fruit incarnate, a sweet an sour raspberry but a dark one, not the kind from Guatemala. Very Tuscan merlot, no in fact wholly Chianti Classico area merlot. No try again – distinctly Falcole merlot. The place always wins. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2020 2018, Toscana IGT

Merlot softens a bit sooner and while this bottle (at this moment) might feel just a touch mature the rest of the wine’s parts are all in perfect pitch. Lift is weightless and elevated, acidity sweet and touchless, tannins tight and in control. In the end the sand and Galestro rule the fruit to remind of place. A place called Falcole. Last tasted February 2024

Will be called Auré which stands For Maurizio and Loretta, owners of the property who have sold to Emanuele and are responsible for planting the merlot in 1978. Just six rows making 1,200 bottles maximum and one of the few old vines examples gone solo in the Classico area. I mean you have to taste this merlot to believe. Plenty of fruit but red with no tar, char or smokiness. Instead all perfume, picked a week ahead of sangiovese, nothing drying or leathery but just the sweetest textures, aromas and tannins. A great site and yes merlot is special for where it comes. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Jurij Fiore & Figlia Occhiorosso Diforì 2021, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

The word diforì means “drunk” in old Tuscan, as when you would ask someone with red eyes, “are you drunk?” Therefore occhiorosso the grape and its translation as “red eyes.” Jurji Fiore grafted material from Sebastiano Capponi onto American rootstock in a rented vineyard called “Clos de l’Ingénieure” in Lamole surrounded by a short stone wall and the owner is in fact an engineer. The first vintage was 2019 (of only 75 litres) after 18 months aging in a demijohn’s worth. No production from 2020 and though the quantity was high enough to use a few casks, Fiore chose to continue in demijohn for the 2021 simply because it worked so well from that 2019. Nothing else smells or feels like this, so far from sangiovese and yet so very Rosso from inside the Chianti Classico territory. Some might at first feel something sangiovese about it but characteristics differ for this rare grape discovered by Professor Roberto Bandinelli of the University of Florence. Bandinelli was incidentally the consultant for Capponi’s Villa Calcinaia. Wait on this tannic and rustic red soloist for its legs to stretch out and charm to be released. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Lassù A Lamole 2022, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

From the vineyard at Castello di Lamole near to Sono Cosi, down below the road, north facing and surround by wood. Only receives an hour of sun in winter and maybe two or three in summer. Freshest of places and especially for trebbiano. Jurji Fiore considered planting only chardonnay but wanted an Italian variety. Dad suggested famoso from Romagna and so he grafted some, along with chardonnay from Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Lassù is a blend of the three, at the time to fill a tank and now its the recipe. Spice, body and freshness fill the space of this wine, from the three varieties emulsified together. A balanced trilogy from which you don’t feel anything too much, or weight for that matter and the three barrels of new, one and two year old do exactly what’s needed to lift, place and show this Lamole white blend. A bi-phenolic white, at times waxy and herbal, of high level citrus preserve and of an intensity that makes sure to hide the wood. Sara Fiore says it is very dissetante meaning thirst quenching. Fourth vintage and now in a well developed place, style and effect. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia l’Amore Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualità 2021

Second “just for fun” attempt at sparkling wine for Jurji Fiore (and he wasn’t happy with the first) with this having just been disgorged on January 26, 2024. Metodo Classico, blanc de noir, 400 bottles produced. A play on words between Lamole and Amore, sangiovese di Lamole. Great energy, toasted, gingery and all the spice comes out because it’s Pas Dosé, dry as the desert. All the fruit comes from Lamole, a sort of green harvest, in the first week of September more or less. Brilliant second effort. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Concerto Di Fonterutoli 2020, Toscana IGT

The first of the Fonterutoli Super Tuscans born in 1981 of sangiovese with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon in Castellina at 350m of elevation. The vineyard is close to Ser Lapo where clays predominate. The sangiovese sees time in tonneaux while the cabernet sauvignon goes to barriques. Gives some muscle and punch with vanilla and lavender notes and fine tannins. The vintage is big and also lifted, quite so which means time is needed to settle the score. The tannins are austere and commanding at the finish. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Siepi 2021, Toscana IGT

Siepi (first made in 1992) comes from the original vineyard aboard a plateau and 240m, from two parcels, one sangiovese and the other merlot. The latter was planted in the 1980s as an alternative to colorino and to help soften the austerity of the sangiovese at the time. The decision was made then too make a 50-50 blend, “a dream of a perfect wine,” says Francesco Mazzei, “of roundness, colour and style.” The sangiovese dominates today because things have changed with the territory’s climate and soils supporting mature levels of ripeness and finesse from the indigenous grape. The shift is welcomed and applauded because more than ever Siepi represents the identity of the place. Could have been 100 percent merlot 32 years ago “but we could not imagine a wine without sangiovese.” As it must. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Belguardo Vermentino Superiore 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A Tuscan coastal varietal white made from four clones and partially aged on skins for six months in amphora. The genesis is from 2011 though the concept has morphed to create the textural wine that it is today. Two of the clones are Corsican, the other two Sardinian. Fresh, clean and bright with that skin contact salve upon the palate, without weight or residue left behind. Slides and glides easily, extract and tannin are high while seasoning is sea salt and white pepper. If you like chenin blanc and/or grüner veltliner than this should appeal to you. “I think in ten years 50 percent of the wines in the Maremma will be vermentino,” predicts Francesco Mazzei. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingarella is the Greek gypsy daughter with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and colorino. All co-fermented from vines planted in the right zones where sangiovese should not be planted. Humidity zones has much to do with the decisions and so merlot will grow in the cooler locations, the franc in the highest. The young vines make this wine and while it’s very dark berry it’s also liquorice, sweet herbs, drying tannins and variegated richnesses. Violets and dark fruit perfumes but also this vivid quality. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingara 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingara is the Greek gypsy mother and the wine from the older vines, powdery in perfume that really comes through in the duality of cabernets. They, the merlot and the petit verdot make for a Tuscan wolf in Bordeaux knit sheep’s clothing for a blend that is super fresh, tight, and floral. You can really chew this wine equipped of a palate that is like fresh leather but also noted in how juices are squeezed out to be swirled as it is worked by your palate. Great Scott fruit and even finer acidity captured. Super fun wine. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Montevertine Pian Del Ciampolo 2022, Toscana IGT

Mainly sangiovese with bits of canaiolo and colorino, first made in 1991 which was incidentally a cold and rainy season that followed the great 1990. A vintage when Martino Manetti’s father Sergio found himself in position possessive of second, third and fourth level quality grapes. Why not make something to drink? Everyone loved this wine right away. Made here and there but persistent demand determined producing it every year starting in the late 90s. Essentially the pressed wine from la prima Le Pergole Torte and seconda Montevertine. Great freshness from Pian del Ciampolo, as in the “plains of Gianpolo,” as per Dante’s Divine Comedy where Ciampolo appears in Canto XXII of the Inferno. Not much more than a resourseful modicum of structure and truthfully while this could be the equivalent of a Chianti Classico Annata the style and effect are purely Radda in Chianti Montevertine. Ripe acidity, slight Macigno chalkiness and this feeling that the plants and grapes have and are in a 15 year midst in their adjustment to climate change. You would never know this was a wine that came from a hot vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine 2021, Toscana IGT

A warm but balanced vintage, harvest in the first week of October, “the right time for us,” says Martino Manetti. From the vineyards planted in 1984 onwards, infusing fruit born in blocks from 1997, 2000-2008, 2012 and 2014. No barriques, only Slavonian cask and always made in the same way, going back to the oenological days of Giulio Gambelli and through the more current work of Paolo Salvi. Manetti is the first to admit that oenology is not his strongest suit and so a consultant has always been integral to getting the most out of these wines. The 2021 is a profound matter of subtlety and strength, with restraint and power being the hallmarks of Montvertine, but maybe here a bit more fruit, florals and near full-bodied punch as compared to some other vintages. Singular because, well Montevertine but this is truly a matter of the place above all else. There is a Macigno streak running through that speaks in terms defined as Radda and the acidity is expressly Raddese but again, the particularity of the 2021 is Montevertine. A wine made to tell a story of where it was conceived and also where it will go. Could imagine tasting a 2001 and/or a 2011 today and the wines would reveal as variations of a replicable performative theme. Still, with respect to this wine, it would be best to wait two years before seeing the true (2021) vintage light. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Farfaro is the yellow flower that appears in the vineyards to mark the advent of Spring. Blends 80 percent trebbiano toscano and (20) malvasia chianti. “For me the white grapes are the last that I pick” explains Giacomo Nardi, simply because that’s how long they take to mature. From 270m on clay with a mineral stone called lignite, used for fire, a.k.a flint stone, as opposed to brown coal. Honeyed and fresh, dry and so very spring incarnate. You could close your eyes and imagine that you are drinking chenin blanc. Drink the you know what out of this clean white. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri is an ode to Giacomo’s grandparents, 60 percent sangiovese with (40) merlot, aged in older barriques and tonneaux. The gastronomic red, restaurant ready, fresh and the kind of wine to fill the mouth with soft waves of clean fruit. A fine example in a sea of Tuscan IGTs where consumers get very lost. Baccheri is easy to find. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Serrico 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

“This dream is possible because of what my father has done.” Though in general Giacomo may not love merlot, he makes an exception and put this together in a way that rises above the 100 percent new barrique aged soft chocolate examples. This ages 24 months in used barriques, followed by a selection of the top of the top. First vintage was 2017, followed by 2019 and this being the third. Elegant and rich, acids full and supportive, length outstanding. One of Chianti Classico’s top IGTs. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2020, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tasted side by side with the ethereal 2019 and so 2020 by comparison is bigger, broader and more muscular. No shock there when you consider that when a vintage like this comes along there will be darker fruit and more of everything each time it happens. This is a factor of climate change that is not always considered, that the goalposts are moving and while sangiovese’s reaction is up and down, the median point continues to shift forward. Digressions aside this ’20 simply needs more time. The bones are so solid, upright and of a density that any wine of hopeful structure would die for. Sturdy like a mature “quercia grande,” immovable and secure. Less connection to the past but still the DNA is strong – it’s just that it shows this in terms of tannic austerity and foundation. Rich and intense, wood more noticeable and patience required. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2019, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Not only are Herman De Bode & Fanny Huygen restoring the borgo of Podere Capaccia, they are also doing their part to resurrect the past. Querciagrande comes from sangiovese vines planted in 2007 and when winemaker Alyson Morgan arrived in 2012 she wanted those vines to produce this wine. To rekindle the spirit within the place and the wines that were famous for their particularity. This vintage in particular reminds of a kind of red fruit from another era. There is a soft-spoken and simple charm about its ways, along with a generosity, kind spirit and most of all a nurturing for our palates. Very Capaccia yet Querciagrande is ushered into today’s world while maintaining a link to the past. Top vintage for what is surely the goal. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Oriana 2020, Toscana IGT

Varietal vermentino, not usual for the Classico area yet here sense is made in San Donato in Poggio with winds from the Ligurian Sea blowing in, unhindered, no barriers in the way. First made in 1998, grafted over and then restarted in 2014. Not a coastal vermentino but one particular to the soil of Chianti Classico. Silken, glycerin mouthfeel, ripe, almost akin to viognier. The wine’s label by artist Antonio Manzi pays tribute to Bruno Rossini’s wife. Spicy finish, visceral and textural, again so reminiscent of viognier and without the salinity of the sea. Sapidity indeed. Approx. 2,500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and May 2024

Poggio Al Sole Sangiovese Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Speaking for his father Johannes Davaz it is Valentino who explains that there was no Bianco to pour for guests and also friends at the winery. Nor was there a Bianco from sangiovese available anywhere nearby. Davaz rented a chardonnay vineyard “for practice” and so white wine has been made since 2016. In 2019 the first vintage of sangiovese bianco was produced, “in purrezza.” Valentino notes that if you harvest too early, like it’s Rosé, nothing good will come. “What we have learned,” says Valentino, “is that anything less than 12.5 percent alcohol will result in boring wine. You need to find the sweet spot.” Johannes has now spent 10 years trying to understand and figure out the moving target. Practice makes (this current level) of perfect and so just 4.5-5.5 months of lees aging puts the white sangiovese in a world occupied by the likes of (top level Umbrian) trebbiano spoletino, super pure, salty and satisfying. Substantial palate presence and most of all authentic. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2023

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Querciabella Camartina 2020, Toscana IGT

A blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (30) sangiovese, also fruit coming off of estate vines upon the Ruffoli hill. Yes sangiovese is involved but a warm and bold vintage delivers full on, rich and throttled cabernet sauvignon treated in such a restrained and elastically stretched away. That said the youth and immovability put this is linear, vertical yet sleek and suave way. There can be little doubt that this 2020 will have an ability to age with the best of the Camartina so being in any kind of a hurry would be a damn shame. Shy now, two to three years away from just beginning to open and bloom, four to six from what will begin to be its early realities. There is some brotherly fighting happening now but these are varietal siblings that will always get along. They will have each others’ backs. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Palafreno 2020, Toscana IGT

A reminder that this 100 percent merlot became this way after the disasters of 2002, 2003 and 2004. Had been a blend before those nasty vintages. Merlot rarely shows lift and this 2020 has it, almost sangiovese attitude in a way, but obviously a Ruffoli thing. Is this succinctly Ruffoli or merlot? Has to be both but this vintage sways in a terroir direction, neither good nor bad but simply what it is. Calcareously chalky, grippy by sandstone mineral and climate directing a child’s every move. Palafreno 2020 does what needs. The highest production of the last 15 years which means a whopping 6,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Batàr 2021, Toscana IGT

The blend is 50-50 pinot bianco and chardonnay though 2021 lends a bit of a percentage towards the former. Low quantity vintage though it can never be forgotten that an abandoned vineyard in the early days delivered the original 100 percent pinot bianco. Was called “Bâtard Pinot” back in 1988. In 1992 chardonnay was added and the pinot was dropped. Then the Bâtard became a French faux-pas but the Milanese love child continued and finally the D was dropped. Still the homage to Bourgogne always hides under the covers. Skins are truly important for this ’21 and textures are everything. Are these components fine-tuned and refined to a level that really exults the wine Querciabella is trying to make? The answer is yes, in another way than before, though this current (already to market) vintage is so young it’s a crime to even discuss. Balance is spot on, subtlety and soft spoken voice sending positive messages and vibes, but ultimately it needs to be revisited in two or three years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Montegrossi Geremia 2018, Toscana IGT

A mix of merlot and (20 percent) cabernet sauvignon that may not be a wine of appellative origin but make no mistake. This shows Monti in Chianti as well as most though with an added richness and textural weave reminding us that this is in fact not sangiovese but an ulterior mix of the vinous and the opulent. Success with other varieties that grow very well in this southern part of Gaiole given acidity and freshness as a factor of the land littered with Alberese soils. The mix of wood is 10 percent new, (30) second passage, (50) third and finally (10) fourth. Spice and spiciness, from cinnamon through nutmeg and then the accumulation of finest expatriate grape tannins. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Pietraforte 2015, Toscana IGT

A blend but the cabernet sauvignon is 98 percent, with (2) petit verdot. Says Dario Faccin, “for us considered one of the great vintages. “The vineyard is 42 years of age as of the 2015 vintage, the Alberello training now changed to Guyot back in 2013. Philosophy the same, berries selected manually beginning in late October and into early November. The softest extraction at low temperatures for 48 hours to fix essential colour, followed by 25-26 days of maceration and then malolactic in new French barriques. These barrels move on to be used for Riserva (Chianti Classico) in their second year. These are the most refined and softest tannins in Tuscan cabernet sauvignon, so much so that you can drink this now, though in fact it is already more than eight years old. It being a current release tells so much about how perfectly timed the decisions have been, all the way through. Adds Faccin, “history is really important and the wine is history, not the conversation.” Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Piluka Pinot Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Now the fifth harvest and while the vineyard has changed, especially with respect to maturation, though the work in the cellar remains the same. Dario Faccin has planted two more hectares and by 2026 there should be 25,000 bottles in production. Grapes are kept at zero degree temperature for a day, fermentation is cloudy and the wine in old oak is held for a year. Acidity is upwards and above 6.5 g/L, high and mighty for a Tuscan white wine. Creamy palate, acidity that pops and most important truly ripe fruit. If you like top shelf Sancerre, Chablis Premier Cru and chenin blanc from old vines in the Western Cape then this pinot blanc will be something special for you. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Sangiovese Mello 700 2021, Toscana IGT

Single site sangiovese grown at 700m on the western slope of Monte Luco, less than two hundred metres lower than Monte San Michele which at 893m is the highest peak of the Monti del Chianti. Luco is a place that just 10 years ago nobody would consider trying to ripen sangiovese and yet here we are. This has to be the highest planting in the Chianti Classico territory though IGT is the labelling because that elevation is above the parameters, though truth be told this was always going to be an IGT. For the time being. Welcome to the future, though Mello 700 is a costly endeavour, a project that requires the implementation of heroic agriculture and 50 euro ex-cellar pricing is the requiem. Aromas are incredible for this second vintage. Perfumes act the part of Lamole and/or Radda but the real factor is mountain air. Meaning freshness and stylistically speaking you might imagine something like nerello mascalese from Guardiola on Etna Nord. This location is one of ice and snow, not to mention hail but vines here actually sleep through winter. They awaken and by harvest time ripeness happens, though at least for now a verdant streak will always run through the sangiovese. A truly beautiful wine this is and my, what a discovery. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Vas Oro 2019, Toscana IGT

The cabernet franc was planted approximately 15 years ago and this marks the second year as a varietal wine, hopefully to stay this way for a good long time. That said with only 3,000 bottles produced it’s spoken for, but so worth pouring to speak for what the grape can do from Castelnuovo vineyards. It really tastes like cabernet franc with notable chocolate and pyrazine then back again. Muscular franc, toned and handsome. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

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WineAlign

Chianti Classico’s future is a three-letter word: UGA

May17

Chianti Classico Collection 2023 – Stazione Leopolda, Firenze

Deconstructing Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, getting around with Masnaghetti, what about 2021? and 245 tasting notes from the 2023 Chianti Classico Collection

When the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico officially announced the launch of their UGA project in June of 2021 a profound new journey had begun. Making that right choice at the right time has paid quick and decisive dividends because the producers, media and yes, consumer have all been quick to embrace these 11 precisely defined sectors. History will show how original and profound an idea this really was. Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive offers an opportunity to officially tell the world about location, sense of place and how estates fit into the complex puzzle of the greater territory. In Chianti Classico this fundamental approach looks at sangiovese and its Gallo Nero progenitor as fastened individuals in a community, no two exactly the same and consumers deserve to know what separates but also unites one to another. The insistence that a general public does not care is both a disservice and an insult to their ever increasing wine intelligence. Each of the 11 Chianti Classico UGAs is possessive of a set of defining characteristics and though opinion is surely varied on pinning down those exact annotations, it gives us something to work towards. What is the defining feature of Castelnuovo Berardenga? Why does Castellina express the most classic red fruit? From where does Gaiole get those specific savoury notes? Who are the sangiovese of Greve? How do we describe the perfume of Lamole? Where do the specificities of Montefioralle originate? What is the impetus for Panzano’s silky textures? What makes Radda so fresh? Why is San Casciano so unique? How is it the wines of San Donato in Poggio so often remind of red citrus? What is the definition of a Vagliagli sangiovese? The answers to these questions are as complex as the whole of Chianti Classico is beautifully mysterious. Chianti Classico’s future is a three-letter word: UGA.

On the surface UGA as a concept or construct may not seem an original idea but consider the other famous instigators. In Bourgogne the wines are organized by burg with every Premier and Grand Cru connected by association to their Villages. In recent times additional geographical mentions have been conceived though they too fall under the auspices of the distinction. In Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero the single most important identifiable feature of those wines are what the Langhe regions refer to as MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntive). The key initial is the first, that being menzione, translated to English as “mention,” a word that refers to adjunctive label notations and by extension how wines are deliberated in conversation. Cru is the real operative and in numerous cases upwards of 10 or more producers will make nebbiolo indicated by a single menzione. The UGA system is dramatically different because it is neither restricted to cru or to village. While it may incorporate aspects of both what it really does is draw geographical lines, 11 of them to be precise, that delineate and organize sets of wines that share a studied, consciously calculated and common connective tissue or traits. For the first time in the history of Chianti Classico there is now a system to charter wines produced from out of a specific geographical area to now be appraised in similar light. Looking at it deeper there can also be groupings imagined, of like-minded producers and in turn shared viticultural plus winemaking practices, in other words, wines that have something in common by virtue of extension from their pinpointed places of origin. In the beginning the aggiuntive was “Classico” and now that the next Chiantishire box has officially been opened – there is no turning back.

Chianti Classico UGA

As a reminder, the recent (June, 2021) sub-dividing of the territory will allow producers to list their sub-zone of origin on the front label of their Chianti Classico wines. In addition to the UGA, going forward the new regulations for the Gran Selezione category at the top of the Chianti Classico pyramid will be (a minimum) 90 per cent sangiovese with support by only native grapes. Current rules for Chianti Classico in all three appellative levels; Vintage (Annata), Riserva and Gran Selezione draw on the same ampelographic base: 80-100 per cent sangiovese and up to a maximum of 20 per cent of authorized native and/or international red grapes. According to the Consorzio “the exclusive use of native local grape varieties has been approved as complementary to sangiovese, since they are more expressive and representative of the production zone and of traditional Chianti wine-growing. The decisions are based on such criteria as oenological recognizability, historical authenticity, renown and significance in terms of volumes produced. The intent of the UGA to represent the excellence of the territory, thus competing, in a more incisive way, with the greatest wines in the world.”

With Alessandro Masnaghetti

Related – Forever in Chianti Classico

Much of the UGA studies and findings were completed with the priceless help of cartographer and Chianti Classico scholar Alessandro Masnaghetti. Masnagthetti’s recent publication of his volume titled L’Atlante dei Vigneti e delle UGA (The Complete Atlas of the UGA Vineyards) is the first true opus dedicated to the Chianti Classico. His dedication to the territory is felt in the most palpable of ways, in fact he begins by dedicating the volume in a most philanhropic way. A chi ha sempre ceduto nel Chianti Classico e a chi in futuro ci crederà. “To those who have always believed in Chianti Classico and to those who will believe in it in the future.” I have written and spoke this many times before, that Chianti Classico is the future and what this region, its people and their wines have instilled in me is a passion for study, education and forward thinking not committed to any other Italian denomination, nor anywhere outside of Italy for that matter. Like Masnaghetti I always look and think ahead, to what is coming next and Chianti Classico always abides. No other place in Italy continues to grow, expand its horizons and evolve like this territory.

‘Cuz he’s the Map Man, yeah, he’s the Mapman

What about 2021?

Telling it like it is, 2021 is a vintage for the ages when we speak of Chianti Classico wines. There have been terrific years in the last 10 or so and each for different reasons but I for one have never witnessed these kind of tannins, this peculiar excitement of tension, the clarity of vernacular of post-modern structure. As a community the wines are suggestive of culture, natural selection and suitability, sustainability and the cumulative movement towards organics. The ’21 Chianti Classico Annata make use of traditional materials and resources and more than any recent vintage open a window into what kind of Riserva and Gran Selezione will arrive when the Chianti Classico Collection 2024 is shown. It just feels like we know how special those wines will be. It is true that a good deal of Classico level 2021s will be released to the markets this year but it has been a while since the adage “sangiovese needs time in bottle” has been as more important as it is from this particular vintage. On the surface these sangiovese can be understood by anyone but there are layers to peel away, nuances and graces to uncover, but most of all they are the sort to seek secondary character and will amaze when that stage is reached. At the collection and in the weeks since I have spoken with many producers and asked for their vintage assessment.

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi – Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi – Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli: “A colder than normal Spring quarter, characterized by late April frosts, was followed by a hot summer and autumn, with the exception of October, which had typical temperatures. The most significant anomaly was observed in February, with a deviation of +2.1 °C compared to the average climate. Precipitation patterns also deviated from the norm: January and December were unusually rainy, while March, the summer quarter, and the September-October period experienced dryness. In 2021, the climate pattern was more consistent, with slightly lower temperatures and a bit more rainfall during the spring. This allowed for a longer and extended growing season. As a result, the grapes had more time to fully ripen, leading to wines with greater complexity and improved preservation of freshness. These wines exhibit a balanced acidity and, at the same time, a pronounced structure and a complex, well-defined fruit profile.

Principe Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Duccio Corsini – Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano: “Just drank some Le Corti Chianti Classico 2021. The wine is very good, may be the best made at Le Corti in the Annata category. Very much terroir of San Casciano. In one word Goloso or “digest.”

With Federica Mascheroni

Federica Mascheroni – Volpaia, Radda: “The winter was not too cold and without much rain. In April we had a very cold few days and a small frost hit us. As you know usually the frost hit more of the lower altitude vineyards, but in that moment the much higher vineyards, because of the high temperature of the previous weeks, and the plants were much farther in growing compared to the one on the bottom of the hill. Anyhow the damage was not to high maybe around a two percent. In the last few years the season are quite dry and the rain come down in a crazy way :-(, because of this (and the high temperature) we keep the vineyard with grass: Cover crop (erba medica, inerbimenti vari) and we try to don’t take out the leaf from the plant and we do smaller number of cimature. We had very strong and extreme temperature, we reached 38° C.”

Volpaia Precipitation 2021

Chianti Classico Rainfall 2021

Chianti Classico Harvests 2018-2021

“Luckily we were able to have a long harvest to reach a good level of sugar and acidity, it was a little bit longer compared to the normality around 10 days, a nice rain helped us to have a good product in the cellar :-). The last vintage has been quite different compared to the others. It is difficult to make a comparison with a past vintage.”

Giovanni Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Giovanni Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano: “2021 was amazing in Panzano – a really great vintage. A good amount of rain between the winter and the Spring perfect to build a reserve of water in the soil. Quite cold in the week after Easter after the budding out that caused a delay in the growing the vegetation. Beautiful weather in June and July with mild temperatures and very sunny and warm in August but never too hot. A thunderstorm on August 28 provided a good rehydration and cooler temperatures during the night after that. Zero pressure of fungus during the growing and ripening season. The harvest for sangiovese started after Sept. 20th starting from younger vines and the best grapes have been picked between Sept. 25th and Oct. 10th. The wines are rich, complex , well structured with high quality tannins and a good acidity. All my wines are still maturing in oak and they taste wonderful.

With Iacopo Morganti – Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Iacopo Morganti – Il Molino di Grace, Panzano: “I have my note about the climate and from this you can understand the vintage (I think) ! The winter 2021 was not too cold, but rainy until the end of March. Regular budding perhaps a little anticipated, the vines then slowed down the vegetative cycle due to a rather dry and cold April. In fact, on April 13th and 14th the temperatures dropped drastically, after an Easter with mild temperatures of 22/25 gradi celsius, and winter temperatures of -4 to -6 gradi celsius with difficult consequences for those who do our job, losing 50% of the production annual! Cazzo! (call it natural selection). The months of May and June were regular and not too hot or too cold with some rains which allowed good flowering. The summer as always very hot and dry especially July and August, but this is normal, Excellent ripening of the grapes in September and October thanks to some rains at the end of August beginning of September and also to an ideal climate with cooler temperatures at night, ventilation and sunshine during the day. All this has allowed an excellent harvest which for us began in early October, all very nice except for the quantity and for the Covid season. From my phone I would like to send you some fire made at 4 AM from my self and the pictures of the consequence of the frost after two days. Believe me it was hard but the result is incredibly elegant quasi signorile I can’t translate. We still have all wines in oak, small production means incredible quality different from 2020 specially from the color (less) and the elegance and finesse. 2020 is more fruity and fresh more dark colour my be more easy to drink young.2021 will be a great vintage, again for me.”

Laura Bianchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Laura Bianchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio: “The summer was dry with only some sporadic rain in August, but the water reserves accumulated in the spring made it possible to avoid the stress of the plant. As for temperatures, the trend of the summer months was fairly regular without excessive heat waves. Furthermore, starting from the end of August the temperatures, while remaining quite high during the day, dropped considerably at night. This important thermal excursion has, in general, allowed an optimal completion of the ripening of the grapes. The harvest ended late on Oct. 18^th. Wines with very important structure and complex aromas, rich tannins and evident acidity, another vintage that will be able to age very well. Similar to 2019.”

Winemaker Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve: “2021 was a game of two halves. Abundant rainfall in winter was followed by ridiculously “unseasonably” warm weather in February and March, which got the vines excited and woke them up a little bit earlier than “normal”… whatever “normal” means ;). I remember clearly our first post Covid trade visitors were Canadians who came over for the early date of Chianti Classico Collection (which was moved to a later one) and they were nearly all in short sleeves after leaving Canada at minus 15C or whatever and coming over to 15C+ of gorgeous sunshine at Ruffoli. This warmth was followed by an icy cold week in April where temperatures dropped to well below zero in some parts of the valley below us. This all at a time when unfortunately some of the early ripening varieties had already burst. At the time it looked like the Chardonnay may have received a “tickle up” but it recovered well. Our reds were saved due to their higher altitudes but we did have significant losses on the coast in the Maremma. Spring was then followed by a warm, dry summer and this warmth resulted in smaller bunches and lower yields, something we have all come to get used to in these parts. Over the years of experience with these conditions we have learnt to manage our canopies and soils well to achieve perfect ripening. A small blessing from the season was the fact the vines were a little bit behind in development so there was no rush to start picking… A trap many fall into in a warm vintage! We were very fortunate as we were able to wait and wait and be patient and start to pick the Chardonnay only on the 13^th of September, the latest we have ever started picking the Chardonnay at Querciabella! We got all the whites in within a week but again patience and experience told us to wait for the reds. We were then blessed with amazing rainfall at the end of September. Again, we still we waited for the Sangiovese! The biggest indicator for me was on the first of October there was still no water in the rivers and still nobody was out in the forests picking mushrooms, so we knew there was zero disease pressure and our Sangiovese would be perfectly healthy out there. So we continued to wait further, tasting regularly to get the picking dates just perfect. We started picking Sangiovese in that first week of October! It was incredible! With precision picking we made our way through the different villages from Greve, Radda, back to Greve, then back to Radda, then over to Gaiole, finishing off in our high altitude Casole terraces in Lamole on the 20^th of October- so again incredibly late but with exceptional quality.”

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano: “It was a great vintage, love the fruit aromas and the quality of the tannins plus the overall balance. I also think 2021 was also a perfect illustration of a vintage of the difference between perceived climate change problems versus poor choices in viticulture. In Panzano we had 800-plus mm of rain from January to May, nearly twice our annual rainfall (~450mm). After May, very to little rain until harvest. If it wasn’t for a frost in five of our hectares we would have had a near record crop in 2021. We still had an abundant crop despite these five hectares bringing our average down. We had beautiful fresh aromas and quality tannins because our vines did not go under extreme stress, our viticultural choices made the difference, keeping the important leaves over our bunches, preventing them from being over exposed or burned, preserving important acidity.”

Monia Piccini – Il Palagio di Panzano

Monia Piccini – Il Palagio di Panzano, Panzano: “In winter it rained a lot, almost double the average. In terms of temperatures, the winter was slightly warmer than average. Spring 2021 as a whole recorded thermal values below average and rainfall 20 percent below average. There were extraordinarily high temperatures such as on March 31st with values close to 30°C and at the same time very low temperatures around March 20th and April 6th-10th with a strong frost. In the low hills below 250m there was severe frost damage, while in Panzano the damage was very much less than in the valley floor. Temperatures continued throughout April and May below the average by about 2°C, causing a strong delay in the vegetative restart after the frosts. At the beginning of June the vineyards had a strong vegetative delay, with flowering starting about 10-12 days later than usual. In June, temperatures recovered immediately with two small heat waves while July was only slightly warmer than average. The real heat wave of the summer occurred between 10 and 16 August, with temperatures close to 40° with sporadic burns on the leaves and uncovered bunches. The summer continued very dry, the third driest since 1955 with a rainfall deficit of over 60%. Under these conditions, the plants soon made up for most of the initial delay, but soon went into water stress as early as mid-August. The maturation went very slowly due to the lack of rain and only towards the end of September some storms allowed the plants to reach an acceptable maturity. The climatic trend favoured the production of healthy grapes. The production in our case was lower than the average for the years by a good 20 percent, in any case higher than in 2020, but in the lower hilly areas there were drops of 60-70 percent. The harvest was delayed compared to previous years in the hope to have a better maturation while waiting for rains, but the lowering of temperatures and the state of the plants prompted us not to postpone the harvest too much to avoid drying of the grapes and sugar levels that were too high. At the harvest the grapes were perfectly healthy, with high sugar values, higher acidity than usual but with good skin ripening thanks to the lower grape load compared to previous years. The new wines have very clean aromas, very ripe fruit, very high colour intensity, remarkable almost concentrated structures, dense but not dry tannins (thanks to a different vinification protocol) and marked acidity, high alcohol content.”

Sebastiano Capponi – Villa Calcinaia, Montefioralle

Sebastiano Capponi – Villa Calcinaia, Montefioralle: “The weather pattern in Chianti for 2021 was characterized by a rather cold and rainy January and February but at the same time by a very dry March with temperatures decidedly above the seasonal average, especially in the last decade, which favoured the start of budding of the vines. Unfortunately, this early spring was followed by a very cold beginning of April characterized by two-night frosts, on 7 and 8 April, which drastically reduced the number of productive buds on the plant. The thermal shock suffered by the vines and the climatic trend of the months of April and May, particularly cold and rainy, led to a delay in flowering which took place after the first ten days of June. The vegetative explosion due to the sudden increase in temperatures in June caused many difficulties in the management of the canopy but the rather dry climate in the summer months and the timeliness of the interventions did not allow the downy mildew to develop. On the other hand, the fight against powdery mildew was more problematic, also due to rather frequent ventilation which, in addition to conveying the spores of the fungus, contributed together with the absence of rain to dry out the soil. Temperatures in the summer months have always remained average with a good excursion between day and night until the days around August 15th when the African subtropical anticyclone, called Lucifer, arrived and caused severe damage to the grapes of the younger vines, which normally have a less developed canopy and a root system more sensitive to drought, especially those planted on plots with western and southern exposure where the afternoon sun has hit the most. Due to the combination of the frost in April, the sunstroke in August and the summer drought, the production was very small in quantity and the harvesting time went back to ancient times when Sangiovese was rarely picked before the month of October. The lack of water in the soil, which certainly led to a physiological slowdown of the vine, in certain vineyards the veraison of Sangiovese was completed in early September, and the persistent absence of rain in September and October in the Val di Greve combined though with an optimal thermal excursion between day and night favored a rather balanced maturation even if slowed down by the drought. Our harvest began on 23 August with the harvest of Sangiovese grapes to produce our sparkling Mauvais Chapon and ended for the red grapes on 6 October with the last Sangiovese vineyard and on 26 October for the white grapes with the Tor Solis vineyard located at 720 meters above sea level. Thanks to a meticulous and painstaking selection in the vineyard we were able to eliminate almost all the grapes dried out by the August sun. Musts, in fact, are generally characterized by a fairly high sugar content, but lower than those of 2017, and by a nice freshness, a non-trivial element to obtain and maintain in a vintage like this.”

Related – Chianti Classico is the future

The highlight of the Chianti Classico Collection took place at the for the premier screening of La Leggenda del Gallo Nero, “The legend of the Black Rooster.” Al canto del gallo, corri veloce cavaliere. Domani la guerra sarà finita e il vino abbonderà nei calici. Avete già visto il nostro film sulla storia del Gallo Nero? Vi sveliamo la leggenda! “At the crowing of the rooster, run fast knight. Tomorrow the war will be over and the wine will abound in the glasses” Have you already seen our film on the history of the Black Rooster? We reveal the legend to you!”

Click on the link to watch the film “La Leggenda del Gallo Nero” then scroll down for 245 tasting notes for wines tasted in February 2023 at the Chianti Classico Collection and visits with estates.

Godello’s 25 top wines from the Chianti Classico Collection

Annata

Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2019, Radda

The single vineyard sangiovese never touches wood, only concrete, in fermentation and also aging. It is the highest expression of Monterinaldi and so it will always be a cru Classico. If a Gran Selezione were to be made in the future it would be a different or rather a new label. This is not yet in bottle though it is a finished wine, so despite its anteprima positioning the wine can be assessed, for the most part at least. Thirty-one year old block at this stage, heavy in Alberese, 3.5 tonnes per hectare in yield, intensity and tension at the fore of what this wine just is. That said the 40 days of skin contact makes for beauty up front no matter the structure afforded. “Cimento” aging means captured freshness and there is truly no thought of either tannin or spice not arriving to set this sangiovese up for a long life ahead. This will be special. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Behold yet another precocious and shockingly generous Annata from the team of Matteo and Maddalena at Cigliano di Sopra. That and an intensity of things intangible despite the very tangible, credible and knowable parts of this wine. So very singular and stand alone for San Casciano and yet a style but more so a way of being that just feels like the future. Too young to really know but it seems like this duo has learned how to keep their ferments from flying away and also from getting away. The professionals are in the house. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

Filetta di Lamole does not hold back or skimp on the perfume and is at once a consistent wine connected to the vintages that have come before. Would not express 2020 as a sangiovese that stands up too be counted but more so one that speaks in calmer, gentler and more hushed tones. Yet the fine swarthiness is always present and it works to characterize Filetta in ways that Panzano from Fontodi does not seem to do. More low and slow personality from 2020 and longevity will likely become its middle name. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

All the schist-bled, favourable exposure gratified and experiential positioning has conspired to raise spirits for the season from Isole e Olena’s standard bearing and load carrying Annata. Hard to find a more exacting example for the cuvée style in which a few varieties in higher percentages than the increasing norm are gathered for what a Chianti Classico can and to be frank, should be. The most sapidity is expressed by way of a Paolo de Marchi Classico and few roll off the tongue like an Isole. As good as it gets for 2020. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2021, Panzano

Retromarcia from Michael Schmelzer is as pure and unadulterated a sangiovese as he has ever made, in fact it resides at the top of the heap in terms of such clarity for any in the territory. That includes his smack dab in the middle of Panzano location and my if he did not figure it all out with this 2021. Well, relatively speaking of course as compared to what came before and things surely changed again the next time he laid his winemaking hands on that recent 2022 fruit. This sheds the trials and tribulations of statism, but more importantly the experiments and errors of stalky, chalky and swarthy. Avoids the potential for cumbersome 2021 by expressing the simplicity of beautifully clean and stay at home fruit. Drink away. Grande Michele! Drink 2023-2029. Tasted February 2023

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

It takes but a second to recognize the Chianti Classico excellence in this 2021 from Jurji Fiore and his Poggio Scalette from Greve’s Ruffoli hill. The levels are all high, mighty and intense in a wine with acids and fruit so inclining but you will not find a finer example of white limestone soil scintillant than what is wildly expressed from this wine. An Annata of major importance, educational and something from which to understand what happens in specific places of this complex territory. My, oh my. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Geggiano must have time in a bottle, “ticking the moments that make up a dull day,” to come away later on, expressive of the Alberese soil (mainly) and deliver what has to be this place. Castelnuovo Berardenga that is and yet this valley with its ridges to the east and west is like no other place because winds, rain, sun and air flow differently, acting upon pure sangiovese to create wines like this. What this is exactly can’t be precisely said but this 2019 is the irrepressible essence indivisible to the history of the past. Also the present, right here in this glass, prescient, pure, persistent and built to last. Sangiovese from Geggiano is the future. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Mocenni, Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli

Riserva

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2019, Vagliagli

Calidonia, Calidnoia, my what a beautiful wine you have become, with three-plus years got behind your acids are softening and tannins fleshing, above and beyond their original anhydrous moments. Calidonia from the Casini/Bindi-Sergardi clan is purely Vagliagli and a 100 per cent sangiovese expressive of vineyards where Galestro and Alberese each impact upon vines. This is Riserva my dear readers. This is Riserva, from Vagliagli’s Craigie Dhu, a.k.a. Mocenni. “Oh, but let me tell you that I love you. That I think about you all the time, (Caledonia) you’re calling me and now I’m going home.” Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Here the textbook is written on producing Riserva from 100 per cent sangiovese out of vintage as humid as they will come. Done so by making the most of vineyards at elevation in a cool location, that being Radda and selecting top level phenolic berries worthy of this place on the Chianti Classic pyramid. A sangiovese that slides and glides both across the palate and through the stages of its presentation. Seamless and teachable. Learn Riserva 101 right here. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Like the Classico this is all sangiovese but in Riserva the fruit is only Panzano and the selection is the second choice of the ripest and tops of the harvest, but also the quality of tannins involved. Mainly from the vineyard beyond the terraces and a couple of blocks purchased from Le Cincole. This is pietraforte territory along the ridge above the Conca d’Oro that falls to the southeast, finishing at the vineyard where Fontodi’s Flaccianello is made. Harvested late, into October and the soil makes a requiem for Riserva quite square in style, with high acidity and lower pH. Savoury as well but in an herbal liqueur way, like a steep of sage, fennel and rosemary, anti-amaro if you will and structured though not the kind of sangiovese that jolts or rocks your palate. The sub-structure, positioning and stature are all impressive. Last tasted February 2023

Nothing scents like a Gagliole and nowhere in Chianti Classico does this sense of fruit compaction, timed and tidy acidity and then fineness of sweet, evolved and intelligent tannins co-exist. Herbal yet delicately so, dripping and oozing of terroir, spice infiltrate of every zone, pocket and pore. Not sure there can be recalled a Riserva with this much personality and oomph but here it is in all glory. Also not sure there has been an example that needs as much aging time as this generously structure ’19. Don’t touch and return five years forward. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2022

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Riserva from Susanna Grassi’s I Fabbri reaches the phenolic height of heights from a vintage of few peers. While 2015 and 2016 were surely apex seasons there may be an argument made in seeing 2019 as exceeding the ripeness of those very good years. The Lamole herbology in perfume will not be denied and yet there are berries and red stone fruit not nosed before, to mix with the citrus and sweet roasted nightshades. This is next level Riserva, all senses piqued and finding moments from which sweet, sour, salty and umami all manage to coalesce. Will be somewhat past prime and yet I am looking forward to tasting this is 2035. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2019

Levigne is Angela Fronti’s way of conjoining Radda and Gaiole, of stacking the variegate fruit of Istine, Casanova dell’Aia and Cavarchione, to create a Riserva layering, circuitous and in beautiful swirl. Swagger too, some attitude and grip that speaks to Alberese, Raddese acidity, Gaiole savour and the exuberance of La Fronti. How can you know, intuit and also feel the emotion of the vineyards, the passion of the maker and the near perfect pitch off the various gatherings of fruit? You can because they are as one. Not Gran Selezione because it’s a selection from several places but for all intents and purposes, not to mention quality, it may as well be. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Bandini 2019, Castellina

Bandini are bandits and yet some might define the Italian word as “the quality of being impenetrable, maculation or imperviousness.” Monica Raspi’s 2019 is anything but and its tannins do nothing of the sort but they are proper. Riserva is possessive of the most clarity and precision, not to mention grace in the cleanest sangiovese of them all, reeling in and through the years. Lovely swirl of berries and essential oils, elements and vitamins, bled from stone, beauty everywhere. “People can you feel it, love is everywhere.” Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2023

Gran Selezione

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2018, Vagliagli

Carpineta Fontalpino is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga but their Dofana cru is a matter of Vagliagli, sibling UGA within the two-winged commune. Vigna Dofana, special place for the Cresti family, deliverer of Vagliagli as only this place can within the most complex and also yet fully understood UGA. Dofana now graduated or better said migrated to Gran Selezione as a subtle, shadowy sangiovese, like chiaroscuro where fruit and acid are light and also dark, yet with time one will become the other. The constant is Dofana and yet now the label speaks in territorial terms, appellative as Gran Selezione, something new and accepted by Cresti siblings Gioia and Filippo. Benvenuto ragazzi. We look forward to discussing this 10-15 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato in Poggio

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2019, Montefioralle

Incredibly youthful for a Gran Selezione and “the furnace” will surely always ensure to wrap a sangiovese tight, keep it from gregariously expressing itself when this young. The tannins are lined up in a long and unbreakable chain, the fruit set in a well below, textural juice not yet scooped and heaped upon the palate. This structure like karst from bedrock plus acids in skein formation hold flesh not yet put meat on these bones. These parts are all there above sangiovese lying patiently and resting in waiting. La Fornace is recited in refrain after verse after refrain with so many stanzas to come, chanted in canto over time and across decades ahead. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2019, Panzano

Comparisons and contrast are considered side by side with 2020 and so as with Riserva there is a marked difference with 2019 Il Margone. That said I find more consistency with the following 2020 then was noted between the two vintages at both the Classico and Riserva levels. Here a darker and more concentrated fruit set stays true to the Gran Selezione appellation but also with respect to elevated acidity and fineness of tannin. Yes 2019 is a more “elegant” vintage but at this level the intensity, polish and game are all set to impressive levels. The structure is finer and less rustic in 2020 and so one vintage’s loss is another’s gain, and vice versa. Choosing one over the other is splitting hairs, like picking a favourite child. Can’t go there. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Le Balze (formerly Toscana IGT) is a finely composed and structured Gran Selezione from San Donato in Poggio yet is apposite to so many from the UGA, stylistically speaking. More of a blue to even purple fruit profile, nearly blueberry and what strikes so poignant about this 100 percent sangiovese is its level of calm, poise and even restraint. It never crashes in waves, nor makes any threatening tannic demands, but does its work in subtleties, through seamless transitions and ultimately with precision and focus. Very impressive. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

As always at this appellative level Le Fonti’s is 100 percent sangioivese and as with Annata but also Riserva the house style chooses fruit over wood and seasoning over toast. The warm vintage finished with late season daytime highs juxtaposed against nighttime lows and this Gran Selezione emerged with glaring clarity, instrumental precision and parts on point. From fruit through structure round fits into round and square into square, nothing awkward, sharp or out of place. An aromatic sangiovese while the palate is an experience and a half. Selezione ’18 is a prepared one, to withstand oxidation and develop supplementary character so that it may age well into the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

The AIS Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection

Acquadiaccia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

A blend of 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo of a purity that is Panzano incarnate, straight away. Glycerin in stride, chalky tannin liquified and just the faintest hit of green astringency. So close to acceding the beauty of idealism yet still a really lovely wine in almost all regards. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Antinori Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Badia A Passignano 2020, San Donato in Poggio

Classic dried herbs and brushy Badia a Paassignano style, here with the accessibility of 2020 though the fruit is pure red cherry with almost no darkening moments. Cool, almost minted with a creosote and cooling coals warmth through the chill of the air. This Gran Selezione is imagined as a perfect meditation in late fall, in a cabin in the woods, by a fire, dimly lit room and silence. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marchese Antinori 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Precisely what must be expected and frankly demanded from Antinori’s San Donato in Poggio Riserva and that would be a perfectly executed cuvée of sangiovese complimented by varieties that speak to exactly that. Glycerol and viscosity in a silken thread sewing fruit with the kind of acidity and tannin of the utmost professional kind. Nothing out of place and the window has officially opened. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

As per the Stucchi-Prinetti plan (which arguably dates back to 1846), the Classico is consistent through the vintages and what feels like epochs as well. There is this swell of sangiovese fruit made complex and curious by what Badia a Coltibuono marks as 10 percent other grape varieties, each making a statement in multifarious manifesto. Searing Annata, part strike and part pierce through the red chalky-cherry originality of these Gaiole hills. There is more going on here than most and year after year this represents benchmark material for the UGA. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Gaiole

A Riserva from Badia a Colibuono is pretty much a Selezione matter and yet, not so much. The emotion is there if not the pack mentality and so Riserva is just Coltibuono. Almost startling to begin with but that is simply the acidity of place talking, distracting and exacting its power over a field blend-like gathering of varieties led by sangiovese. Riserva acts on behalf of and in the ways of the abbey and surrounding vineyards, were they personified would surely speak. Like the paintings along the cloister corridors and the ocupants whose truths, history and tradition are what you need to hear. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2020, Gaiole

As expected, lithe and here from Gaiole also verdant, influenced by UGA, commune and forest. A tart and also taut while pure sangiovese with some Alberese chalkiness in the tannins. Quite well made and supremely indicative of where it comes from. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Still firm, grippy and liquid peppery, not in a reductive sense but the tannins (while sweet) are dusty as well. Classic Bibbiano, of two sides by soil and micro-climate, layered continuously upon and with one another, to create an always stylish and focused Annata. Really pure Sangiovese, as always, clean as it gets, tidy, orderly and succinct. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Bibbiano’s is at the forefront of youthfulness in that there is a closed aromatic launch and some reduction needing to blow off before the hounds of charm can be released. Head straight to the palate to be graced with the interspersions of texture and structure, first liquid Castellina chalky, then wound around the body of this wine. Sangiovese needs the bottle and with eyes closed those words of Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi play in refrain over and over again. Be patient and kind to his wine and in turn you will be kindly rewarded. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2022

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2020, Vagliagli

Everything about La Ghirlanda is Bindi Sergardi in Vagliagli as it always must be, natural fruit red and pure, transparent and through the looking glass of precision for family and location. Curious how there is some tannin here, fine grained structure and while the wine is very accessible there is no doubt it will live longer than many of its ilk. This is a very, very good Annata, luck and fortune all in. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Basic and vintage relatable as 100 per cent sangiovese in rustic Vagliagli style. Not the most freshness in fruit, some salumi and certainly a way that is older schooled and recognizable. Tradition dies hard. Truly. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Fine example of combining place (Radda) with vintage and appellative level. This is an exacting 2020 as Annata with fine acidity and food-matching capability. Grippy as needs though never vivid, herbal yet not herbaceous. Well-balanced and ideal for three-plus years ahead. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Quite cool, minty, brushy and herbal to represent Radda in the most clear and knowable way. The level of tannin here is notable, markedly elevated for 2020 Chianti Classico and it is apparent that Radda at heights did not ripen at a level much above seven or 7.5 on the scale of these things. Quite a searing example for the season. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Perfectly round and normal, dictionary entry sangiovese with softness and intensity of hue, by colouring and merlot as a friend of sangiovese. Tart and just tight enough to hold on for a few years but for the most part this is meant to be consumed in the first two. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

The Brancaia from Radda is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A Riserva from Brancaia is Riserva in a nutshell, of startling professionalism and also emotion. The acidity of place begins in dissertation, leading sangiovese with 20 per cent merlot in the ways of vineyards translated through high execution to personify just what it means to be, act like and exist as Brancaia. Silky smooth, liquid chalky, finely chiseled and structured, able to age long. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2021, Castellina

High glycerin, notable alcohol and structure as well. A big wine as always for Gabriele Buondonno for several reasons, namely elevation and solar radiation but also the intangible of conversion rates and things just being natural, the way they simply have to be. Some vintages are bigger and greater than others and for sangiovese in varietal purity this out of 2021 will equivocate with superior strength, balance and trenchant intensity. Count on it. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2020, Castellina

To taste and think upon Buondonno as Riserva from as recent a vintage as 2020 is to engage in an almost fruitless exercise. This because the level of fruit, acid and tannin in cohorts is so immovable that without time in the bottle it’s hard to gain any real traction. This from 2020 carries more weight and energy than so many, especially from this triad of a location where Castellina, Panzano and San Donato in Poggio nearly converge. Gabriele Buondonno’s is like a stacked ferment of grapes, place and vintage needing three years to flesh and release some charm. Three more to be in the zone. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Always important for a sangiovese to act and project as Riserva when choices are made for fruit to be this way. Cafaggio’s is exactly that and this 2019 resides at the top of the echelon for Riserva made by this Panzano producer. The fruit is exceptional and the structure a fine matter of acid and tannin intertwine. Still some grippy matter to resolve so expect this to drink at peak in another 12-18 months. Aerate now for positive results. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2023

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2020, Gaiole

A surprisingly tannic and overtly structured Annata from Cantalici out of 2020. From Gaiole and seems to bring more grip and drying herbal feels than most UGAs from this vintage. Not the quietest or most amenable sangiovese but one needing time and that speaks for place more anything else. Barrel as well which also needs more time in bottle to melt and settle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

At Caparsa with Paolo Cianferone, John Szabo MS and Mona Haugen-Kind

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Radda

Different fermentations are involved, tank and especially concrete, very much a matter of Raddese acidity, fruit sharp and über cherry in linear sangiovese. Needs another year to soften just that much more though these are quite nurturing tannins and the wine does really choose to please. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2010, Radda

Just 2,600 bottles were produced and only eight, well now seven remain of the vintage. “Some wines get you down, some make you talk a lot and some make you drunk. I want a wine that will make you think,“ explains Paolo Cianferoni. “In 2010 I lost 75 per cent of my production and I don’t know why but when I have a glass it makes me think. Maybe what was left on the vine received the love that was left.” A sip and left to think about things because not only is this sangiovese perfectly aged but it is right in the balanced zone. Also the mystery zone and places we’ve never been. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2012, Radda

Eleven years old, a vintage of high quantity which also means that the wine is a fatter and softer one. Fully resolved now and drinking with lovely grace and elegance. Last tasted February 2023

Lovely bit of development from a vintage of great fortitude and possibility though seemingly only recently softened. Now smooth tannin and yet so, so very sangiovese. The red fruit carries a liquorice note not noted in later wines and here the complexities are blooming, changing and renewing their vows. Lovely look back and easy on the volatility scale. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted February 2020

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Montaperto 2018, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Apposite to Dofana for Vagliagli is Montaperto of Castelnuovo Berardenga, the grippy, forceful and tannic one. The immovable and unbreakable sangiovese so very linear, gripped by strength, of skeletal structure and needing time. Give it. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Perfectly reasoned, seasoned and fine dusted Annata here from Carpineto, consistently contrived from year to year with 2021 being no exception to the rule. Good fruit and loins, strong bones, robust and trim. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Greve

There is nothing about this Gran Selezione that is not Carpineto and so kudos to the Greve estate for unyielding consistency, no matter the time or place. In fact this also represents a look through the mirror of a vintage, never overbearing or overpowering and just a snapshot of cool, herbal and brushy, like taking a long walk though a dry forest, air crisp with fresh air. The 2020 GS has matured some already so drink this while some others work through their issues. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2019, San Casciano

There will never be denying the savoury elements and earthy nature of a sangiovese from San Casciano and Le Capitozze by Casa di Monte is not the exception. The acids in this 2019 Annata are quite incredible and there is plenty of fruit, red and ropey fruit to stand with the tart and tight wind that constitutes true style. Crunchy Annata with spirit and energy, a charcoal, tar and candied rose compliment, seasoning and all that can make a Chianti Classico thrive. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Capitozze 2017, San Casciano

A few years have seen this Riserva travel forward and the source is a hot, dry and exceptional vintage. And still a great freshness persists even if the sangiovese is ready to be enjoyed. The tannins are more than half resolved and their work in progress is just what the fruit requests but also deserves. This is nothing if not a lovely and joyous swell of Riserva, aged with ideal practice and wood execution, nearly come to fruition, always in maintenance of balance. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The 2021s are being shown because many will indeed soon be released yet examples like this from Casa Emma are way too young and unresolved to really speak the language of its ancestry. But my what hides behind the curtain is so real, vivid to the point of acting out a passion play of psychological sangiovese thriller. An Annata with canaiolo and malvasia that twists and winds, sidles and turns through the sangiovese to aerate and intensify. All this said there are years needed to coordinate and allow Casa Emma to become the wine it wants to be. Even at Annata level. Always at Annata level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Great depth noted straight away but then back to reality because perfume rising draws the aromatics and extends them stratospheric. This is exceptionally gifted as it pertains to perfume, violets nearly and most certainly roses. A sangiovese that might make a sort of taster to think nebbiolo were this tasted blind, though one so modern as to make a heart ache. Then a natural sweetness, wood abided and elasticized with texture and then spice. Much gastronomy here and with a few years melt the ooze will become amenable to match with complex preparations. Seeing this on a restaurant list. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Chianti Classico Collection Design

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

One of the few (of maybe a dozen) producers using pugnitello to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

A little bit (10 per cent) of merlot goes along way to soften and textualize sangiovese with 2019 as the main catalyst for a high quality Annata by Casaloste. Big wine to be sure, fruit driven, structured with great demand and acids sweeter than many. There is quite a wealth of character happening in this wine just getting started on its long journey ahead. Has markedly improved in the past year. Last tasted February 2023

Notable ripe fruit and also a verdant austerity makes for a wine of two positions, angles and disparate emotions. A sangiovese of floral and also avian display while in delivery of liquorice and bitter herbs. Almost Riserva in style, glycerol and concentration at the fore, the rest waiting in the wings. Needs time. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Casina di Cornia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castellina

Plain and simple this is Castellina in Chianti yet one climbing the tight and structured hill though not the ripest of sangiovese ever developed. That said this is 2019 fruit and it’s about as phenolic driven as there has ever been. Really drying, brushy and most intense. Glaring and demanding. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

High octane red fruit with a decidedly higher acid drive puts this sangiovese in fine speed with trailing vaporous emission. Very young and this vintage of 2021 seems to need more time than most any looking back just about a decade of time. Yes a good deal will be released to the markets this year but it has been a while since needing time in bottle is more important than this particular vintage. Great length here on Castagnoli’s 2021 to speak of greater things yet to come. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

A wealth of cherry red fruit in the classic idiom and quite frankly a Chianti Classico 2021 Annata more forward than most from the structured vintage. Solid bones though fruit is most up front and herbals season the wine with sweetness, Different set of circumstances for the wood in how it’s noted to be drying out at the finish. Solid effort for this Castellina house. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castelli Del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Clearly too young to fully know the ultimate direction but there is some blood orange set against a dried herb backdrop in an Annata of clear and present San Casciano character. This is in fact the cooperative of Castelli del Grevepesa’s less sizeable cuvée and one with more singular character and sense of place. Very well made that shows the potential of 2021. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Clemente VII 2019, San Casciano

Firm and grippy Riserva for 2019 and a Clemente VII speciality from sources drawn, blended and made whole. Professional sangiovese to a great degree, silky smooth and ready for food. Acids are just as sweet and tannins just a bit brittle. Ever so slightly and yet the wine finishes with an upwards lilt and twirl. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

A firm and herbal sangiovese with splashes of canaiolo and malvasia nera for extra seasoning, texture and most of all sapidity. This is Lamole in a nutshell, of those herbs with cereals, nuts and a textural feeling in lieu of acidity or rather in compliment to what structure demands. Lovely 2020, accessible yet grippy enough to mean business. Last tasted February 2023

Big but not dense and for Lamole a heady sangiovese from the not so magnanimous Chianti Classico vintage. More than anything it is essential and encouraged to concentrate on the floral aspects of this wine, perfumed to the hilt with that Lamole commodity. Like all the bushy herbs in bloom, of purples and pinks, scenting the air at dusk even if one fails to brush on by. Lovely texture in 2020, mildly glycerol and giving the impression of almost gelid but surely sweet sangiovese fruit. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Castellinuzza E Piuca Di Coccia Giuliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

At five per cent it is canaiolo that lowers the Lamole acidity just enough to introduce sapidity and make this 2020 Annata drink with some proper scorrevole. Challenging vintage for this label, tight and racy even, definitely Lamole of origin and heeded in design. Will develop porcini and tartufo when it hits next age business three or four years on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

How could we not intuit this as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio? The signs are obvious from the start, blood orange and tart acidity but also a canaiolo influenced sapidity that aids in weights and balances for a 2020 Annata that benefits from such cuvée styling. The colouring too, for tradition and classicism. A touch of weight at the finish and a slight botanical tonic to add complexity if also minute astringency. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Ama by (Castello di) Ama is a richly textured and high glycerol Annata with all the wealth and generosity from the vintage captured, pressed and patented for a stamp of quality and guarantee of success. Crunchy red fruit and limestone strike, not quite high-toned but rising and ethereal as far as Classico is concerned. So well made and a harbinger for Gaiole within the greater territory for 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2019, Gaiole

Quite the aromatic lift and high-toned entry for a 2019 Riserva that must be pushing generosity of ripeness and also alcohol. Warm and floral, viscous and layered. High octane flavour profile, generous of juicy red berry fruit and also barrel. Quite classic in a modern vernacular for a sangiovese (with five per cent merlot) that has come to pass and be recognized for more than two-plus decades now. Last tasted February 2023

“Direct descendant of Castello di Ama Riserva in a return to the appellation with this being the second such vintage. Falling somewhere between the Ama Annata and San Lorenzo Gran Selezione, Ama’s Montebuomi is so very Calcari, regardless of the level of appellation, intensely woven, idealized and structured. Such mineral virtuosity at the Riserva level captured however, linear, vertical and compact. A compression exists by dint of those vineyard soils and also the living and breathing Gaiole terroir. Drying for now, fleshing to come, settling in later. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2022

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto San Lorenzo 1990, Gaiole

A grand old sangiovese from Ama, likely made by Lorenza Sebasti’s father and predating the winemaking work of Marco Pallanti. A wine twenty years before it would become one of the territory’s first Gran Selezione and an original Chianti Classico cru. Feels like some merlot mixed into this 33 year-old, or not but softness is a virtue. More truffle than porcini, creamy and holding well. Acids are indelibly stamped while tannins have all but disappeared. Beautiful old soul with a chocolate finish to reminisce about the wood involved. Good showing. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi Chianti Classico DOCG C. Berardenga 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Amazing purity of naturally sweet fruit and surely the priority in Bossi’s Annata 2020. If beautiful and amenable sangiovese straight out of the shoot is what you wish to drink then Bossi’s of clear and present Castelnuovo Berardenga account is just perfect. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Pure, clear and transparent purity of sangiovese, exquisite by fruit and in construction, well structured to hold back the years and make us understand the best is yet to come. Crisp, fresh and crunchy now, surely to become chewy later, with braised fennel and liquorice, tar and roses. The professionalism and intent are noted with palpable concern, the wine clearly destined to show well five-plus years down the line. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

Castello di Cacchiano’s wines are made by Federico Cerelli, he of Gabbiano and Poggio di Guardia (of amongst other estates of reputation) and this Riserva speaks to a Monti in Chianti (within Gaiole) location. A pure example indeed, viscous and high in acid retention but also a blue to grey Galestro soil. A tad dusty yet plenty juicy and very much a traditional style of Riserva in stylishly retro clothing. Not old school, just classic. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG Cavaliere d’Oro 2020, San Casciano

Big production and from 2020 a sizeable wine for Gabbiano’s San Casciano Annata though do not be afraid to aerate and get at it in this calendar year. The fruit is up front even while some wood seasoning persists and assists in creating a classic sangiovese effect. Concrete helps to keep the freshness. Good linger so this 2020 will drink well for a few years to come. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, San Casciano

High glycerol, as per the vintage no doubt and a bleed from chalky Galestro with a nod to Pietraforte for Riserva of suave style and chic demeanour. The professionalism and faux fructose-pectin texture is like pure berry cream, without lactic or milky feels. Modern and so stylish. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Very curious 2021 from Castello di Meleto, almost a sticky effect, like a savoury hard candy dissolving on the palate to reveal new character with each melting moment. Textural sangiovese with five percent merlot, one that works through aeration and on the palate then instigates the mind to imagine many developing possibilities. Sweet acids and tannins too, wanting to integrate but the wine is far too young to involve such foolery. Be patient, it’s sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

One of the more famous, unwaveringly consistent and highest of quality to quantity ratios just has to be this from Monsanto in San Donato in Poggio. Five per cent each canaiolo and colorino complete the endemic local blend, in sapid swings and also hue, also in good humour with just enough tension involved to keep things so very real. Despite the generosity this is a pretty tightly wound Riserva from Laura Bianchi and one to cellar with the best of a long, winding and storied history of producing some of the territory’s most structured wines. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio DOCG 1970, San Donato In Poggio

Talk about an OG. One of the few Classico (Riserva) truly deserving of a place in that category as it pertains to cru identified vineyards. From 1970 there is perhaps less lingering fantasy and age-worthy decades long penetration but truth is only Monsanto and a handful of others can make a wine drink with status (and also grace) 52 years into its tenure. The ’68 and ’69 tasted in 2018 and 2022 respectively were better representations of the storied block and this ’70 emits a nutty and sharp pecorino cheese note, but also fennel and caramel for an overall umami arrangement. San Donato in Poggio umami of another era, sweetly savoury, inviting and subtly sour. Truly fascinating sangiogsee. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2019, Radda

The single vineyard sangiovese never touches wood, only concrete, in fermentation and also aging. It is the highest expression of Monterinaldi and so it will always be a cru Classico. If a Gran Selezione were to be made in the future it would be a different or rather a new label. This is not yet in bottle though it is a finished wine, so despite its anteprima positioning the wine can be assessed, for the most part at least. Thirty-one year old block at this stage, heavy in Alberese, 3.5 tonnes per hectare in yield, intensity and tension at the fore of what this wine just is. That said the 40 days of skin contact makes for beauty up front no matter the structure afforded. Cimento aging means captured freshness and there is truly no thought of either tannin or spice not arriving to set this sangiovese up for a long life ahead. This will be special. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2018, Radda

The 1988 planted vineyard at more than 450m on most excellent Alberese soils is the signature, Classico or whatever other appellate label you would wish to put upon it. Boscone knows what it must be and a long maceration (40 some odd days) plus only cement fermentation/aging makes sure to create a sangiovese of finesse and zero distraction. Nothing external, no wood to cake on any make-up, a wine as naked as the grapes were hanging on the vines. Higher acidity, yet another apposite occurrence in spite of the hot vintage because this place cools when necessary to gift saltiness and also sapidity, equal and opposite, also with thanks to the age of the vines. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

For Monterinaldi Riserva resides between Classico and Classico Vigneto Boscone and picking happens between the two, though Boscone is an entity all on its own. This fruit usually comes from middle elevation. Riserva sees Botti and it’s just so obvious because there is more texture and compaction, not necessarily concentration but certainly tight grained layering because of the use of wood. So curious that even with wood this feels less barrel affected than most so Riserva. Monterinaldi’s is still a fresh and sapid sangioivese. Crunchiest Riserva in the territory, bar none. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

The time in 30 hL French cask is approximately 30 months and it must be said again that Riserva by Monterinaldi is the crunchiest of the area, far and wide, crisp and fresh, so clear and finessed. There is more concentration form 2019 to be sure and also fair because the purity but also longevity is just a perfect guarantee. As good as 2020 is as Riserva there can be no denying the next level success that this prime vintage brings to the table. And yet cooler vintages are usually long-lived ones – but at Monterinaldi they all are. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

As far as 2021s are concerned there is great youth and an unrelenting wall of structure in this sangiovse (with eight percent canaiolo) from Dudda Valley in northeast Greve. Too much wood noticed at this early stage and so the tart, tight and sapid red fruit is held in tight, closed and yet to sweeten, flesh out or fatten for that matter. Wait at least 18 months more. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Greve

Mainly sangiovese with eight per cent canaiolo to keep a proper level of pH and therefore sapidity with no rapid or hasteful maturation from 2020 Dudda Valley. Moderate alcohol, scents of salumi skin and roasted nightshades, viscous mouthfeel in a generous wine from Greve without gratuity and surely never taken for granted. Quantity is high for the vintage and appellation for a very promising wine. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Corno DOCG 2017, Radda

Though six years old there is still a wall of structure for Castello di Radda and a single vineyard Gran Selezione that’s far from showing its best and releasing the charm. Dries at the finish but when the wood and tannin subside that sensation should release. Two more years it would seem. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Selvole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Vagliagli

Quite resinous, herbal, tart, tannic and full of tension. A challenging wine that should have softened by now. Wait another year and see what happens. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

At Castello di Verrazzano, Greve with Maria-Sole and Luigi Cappellini, Michaela Morris and Caterina Mori

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Oh, ah, the perfume of Verrazzano. Not just aromas from a wine producing estate but the complex aromatic weave of a veritable and traditional fattoria, of olive trees, gardens and forest. Not an Annata of structural potency but more so one of evident spezzatura, of superior phenolics and balance. The first half of the wine is sapid, the second turns and finishes salty. In that sense indicative of bordering Montefioralle and yet the mix of strong red fruit plus savour is purely Verrazzano. Returns full circle to strength of perfume. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017, Greve

Tasted from a gravity-filled system without pumping by machine to see what then effect on the wine might have, if any. Well if the exercise has any real consequence it would be on the energy and vitality of this Annata. The wine is full of pulse and life while structurally immovable and in no rush to mature. There is more precision on the nose and the palate as well. I’d say a good choice for bottling if not the most efficient way to produce your wines. Last tasted February 2023

Such a unique aromatic expression here from Castello di Verrazzano and the pattern is becoming a thing of great consistent beauty. The judgement is sound if nearly spot on from a challenge and so the structure supporting makes for a resounding drink of sangiovese speciality. Very impressive for the year. Drink 2021-2027. Tasted February 2020

View of the Greve Valley from Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Greve

For Luigi Cappellini some similarities are noted with what will come forward from 2020 (Annata) in that the fruit is of a similar ilk if also a compatible level of spezzatura. The ’18 Riserva used this warm vintage with mitigated assistance from the elevation of this northwestern part of Greve. Vineyards ranging from 250 to 480m quantify a keen effect on slower phenolic development. There is fruit maturity here and this won’t live as long as some other top structured vintages but as Riserva the savoury elements are heightened, the Grandi Botti effect on texture guaranteed and the Verrazzano perfume pops with every swirl. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, Greve

There is much power and strength to 2004 in a Riserva more than holding the fort and the castle without showing any kinks in the armour or signs of decline. Even after 18 or 19 years there is very little development in this ’04 and I for one must applaud not just how slow it has evolved but also how little the Botti show up on the palate. A wine of fruit, spezzatura and savour more than chocolate or balsamic, start to finish. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2017, Greve

Sassello comes from the vineyard on the hill behind the Borgo at the highest elevation and while ripeness development will be slower there can be no doubt that 2017 was better here than most warmer and lower locations in Chianti Classico. The Sassello of this vintage is still stuck in first stage youth, quiet, dense and volumetric. The wine has moved but barely an inch, it speaks in fulsome texture and while yet to flesh out there is a roundness that will see it drink so well for years to come. The best of which will be two looking ahead and ten after that. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2013, Greve

The nose on 2013 is remarkably fresh but also open and generous, as fruity as it is filled with knowable Verrazzano perfume. There is a sanguine aspect to this ’13 but also a tar and roses section to put it in a place of its very own. Maybe even a sweetly herbal moment, middle plane minty with more than average structure still very much in charge. One of the bigger 2013s in the region, holding strong and going everywhere with all the time in the world. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2017, Greve

Valdonica is both lighter and more linear as compared to Sassello with more classic speazztura and Verrazzano aromatics. Also a chalkiness and barrel induced texture but without the volume in Sassello. Valdonica is more straightforward, not as intense in terms of substantial fruit and also more available at this early stage. Saltier finish as well, more in line with Annata while Sassello seems akin to Riserva. Notable balsamico in Valdonica. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Bartolo 2017, Greve

A single block Gran Selezione with the idea to make a more precise sangiovese (with some merlot) that expresses itself with great tension. Well first and foremost San Bartolo is a wine of fruit, big fruit and very generously so. The tension arrives halfway through the tasting experience as you realize a vice grip of tannin of intense expression has taken hold of the senses. The nervous nature of sangiovese combined with a single vineyard of elevation near 480m puts this Gran Selezione is a very specific place. These things supersede the dry and hot vintage in fact they lead at every stage. More chocolate by the Botti on the finish here than the other two Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Of all the 2021s to taste and assess there is no shock that Volpaia’s is just about as young and immovable as any. This is not major news for a vintage of great structure matched by upbringing for classic Classico. These are children of manners and respect, knowing their place in history, they being sangiovese, reticently expressive, necessarily patient, with this Volpaia as experienced and abiding as any. The substance is that of a layered and complex weave with five per cent merlot involved to soften but also pull verdancy from a very tannic example. Bigger than recent vintages, weightier and potentially far more profound. Time will tell. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltassala 2019, Radda

Full and expressive Coltassala with smoulder and sneaky tannins behind a wealth of dark cherry red fruit. Seasoned yet the wood is gentle, beautifully integrated and while this is not the biggest, boldest or baddest of the Gran Selezione, by Volapia’s standards it is a munificent one. Shows off Radda’s acidity, especially at elevation and coupled with high level ripeness the chance to enjoy a bottle will come sooner than the average. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2021, Greve

Guado Alto is the name assigned to Castello Vicchiomaggio’s Annata and solo sangiovese is the game. The fruit is about as honest and also forthright as it gets for the vintage and yet this smaller production (just 20,000 bottles) is the more focused of the estate’s wine at this appellative level. Really getable and manageable at this time which is something so many 2021s are yet to do. At the price this usually comes in at there can be only a few wines from this vintage offering equal and rarely better early drinking value. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2020, Greve

Talk about the passion, and the classics, in Riserva from Castello Vicchiomaggio the wonder is always present, accounted for and delivered through the name of Agostino Petri. No absence of these ideals from 2020, despite the challenge and the idea that this vintage is a Riserva vintage continues to be conceived. These things take time, wines especially built on sangiovese while here softened and made fruitier by ripe cabernet sauvignon. Spot on, generous and giving. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore di Famiglia 2018, Castellina

Solid, weighty, tense and taut sangiovese here from Cecchi in the highest level on the appellative pyramid. Wound tight and will take five years to unwind, just as it has already been nearly five to wind up into this intense present character. Might dry out a bit and the seasoning will be peppery strong as the fruit subsides. The next few years will see the best moments for this Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Lovely 2020 from Cinciano, to no surprise with fruit and more fruit at the fore while support is effortlessly provided by both acid and tannin, equally, unequivocally and with hand held outstretched. Some more tension than quite a lot of 2020s but again the fruit does well to stay in line and for the ultimate purpose of balance. Another year will improve the situation. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The most exotic perfume emits from Colle Bereto’s Annata in 2020 and there are none like it. Like cinnamon and coriander, pine and cedar, the forest and the spice cupboard fully involved. A truly structured and formidable wine, especially for 2020 and needing several years to resolve. That said the purity and quality are unwavering. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Colombaio Di Cencio Chianti Classico DOCG Monticello 2020

The fruit is quite dark here and this has occurred in isolated frazione but more so pinpointed vineyard locations here and there from 2020 in the territory. Parts of Panzano and Radda but also here from Gaiole and yet the wine is soft, mature and accessible. More about sweet acids in structural terms so don’t think too much nor wait too long to drink this palatable wine. Last tasted February 2023

Colombaio di Cencio presents a Gaiole herbology that’s always indicative and distinctive, sometimes by way of faintly sweet Amaro liqueur. That’s the first and then recurring feeling coming from this 2020, chalky and with acids that slide along with the red fruit speckled with fresh and also dried herbs. The tannins follow the latter with some pretty austere aridity. This will drink well in a few years, that much is certain, but unfortunately the bottle will not get any lighter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2022

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2019, Montefioralle

More than promising vintage for this single vineyard Gran Selezione from Sebastiano Capponi and that is the operative word because Vigna Bastignano is beholden to time. From 2019 the one that suffices is such a structured sangiovese with broad shoulders with most substantial Montefioralle fruit to go the distance. More than suffices. Basti dire che. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2020, Vagliagli

Petrignano is a newer label for Dievole and in Annata form it’s a most forward thinking and drinking example from the Vagliagli estate. This from 2020 doubles down on the ideal with fruit sweet like candy, naturally and without any undue stress or tension in the glass. Easy, clean and getable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Here comes yet another bit of professional brilliance from Dievole at the Riserva appellative level, mainly with sangiovese plus two or three points of supportive and original territory DNA by canaiolo and colorino. Fruit swells straight away, up front and centre, equidistant from all parts connectable, structural and conceptual. Fruit is an apex predator that feeds on acid and tannin for survival. Dievole owns all the tools and gets it correct. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Aiola’s 2020 Annata is place and vintage driven raised in big casks and on promises, ready and willing to please when spring arrives, just around the corner. It’s really that close to having settled in and deliver the grace and charm expected. Quite a lovely, lithe and red citrus vintage right here of great specificity. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Lamole Paolo Socci Chianti Classico DOCG Castello Di Lamole 2016, Lamole

Tart and volatile, a truly swarthy and natural sangiovese from Lamole. Both chewy and with some formaggi, a wine so very Lamole but more so this label within the UGA. Extremely parochial and idiosyncratic behaviour. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Valiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Sizeable case production and a sangiovese with some softening merlot out of the southerly Vagliagli UGA. Straightforward, of peppery plum and red citrus, currants and a dustiness about the overall feel. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Juicy, fruity, glycerin, simple and needing to be consumed. Drink 2023. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Pure and ready, amenable and readable Annata here from Le Masse’s San Donato in Poggio vines, treated with utmost respect and for all the right reasons. This is textural sangiovese and quantities are so low you should count yourself lucky to secure just a bottle or two. Grace, understatement and charm are what this feels like are the things that comprise its beauty. Last tasted February 2023

“To me, one of the best years for grapes,” tells winemaker Claudio Gozzi and the wood tank used for fermentation and now aging makes this noticeably a year wiser (than 2018) and so much more suitable to making this 100 per cent sangiovese. Even without tasting you can tell there’s a refinement, a calm and a settling that 2018 does not have. Cleaner, much more precision and seamless behaviour. Perfect volatility, sweet acidity and long, fine chains of tannin. Pure and honest, exacting, readier and will be just ideal with another year or so of time. Approximately 7,500 bottles produced. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted October 2021

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Purely San Donato in Poggio, red fruit of red citrus as gelid texture with a coolness and a fineness that speaks directly to 2019. The tannins are quite resolved and yet the wine has much to give and life yet to live. Look ahead five plus years and imagine the changes to come, but best to drink in the freshness for now. Last tasted February 2023

The Annata of Montecchio always express a deeper San Donato in Poggio, classically citrus and red fruit meeting salumi cure, but there is always more. To the story and the point, Annata from 2019 gives earth, juice bled through stone and clay. If other UGAs are akin to Santenay than this Barberino Tavarnelle could be compared to say, Volnay. In sangiovese of course and Montecchio accedes to a Villages level, here in their suitably hyperbolic Annata. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG Primum 2018, San Donato In Poggio

From Montecchio’s Premium Line in the squat half magnum bottle and from warm 2018 a mainly sangiovese with five percent cabernet sauvignon that smooths the angles and curves all the lines. Rounded, well-rounded at that, with really mature fruit, as if in a slow-cooked stew, braising liquid fine and viscous. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Felciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Dusty and herbal, quite the savoury expression, especially for Panzano and a wine of place above all else. Full and not lacking for fruit from a palate that does so much more in terms of impression and what this wine is capable of becoming. Still quite youthful so return in two years to see what will become. Last tasted February 2023

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Panzano and 100 per cent sangiovese, without a shadow of a doubt on either front, chewy and fulsome fruit, lots of sun and ripeness, chalky Galestro and perhaps even Pietraforte-induced structure. Acids are quite high for 2019 but then again it’s all sangiovese so why be surprised. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Firm yet fair Annata from Fèlsina and one off the harbingers not only for Castelnuovo Berardenga but surely Chianti Classico as a whole. The 2021s are a formidable group, like 2019 Barolo in certain structural and yet immovable respect. Though this entry is but an indicator, instigator and liquidator it does so with all possibilities and probabilities intact. Classic Fèlsina of a broad spectrum to speak on behalf of a wide breadth of fruit sourced out their many vineyard blocks. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Fèlsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is a perfume, a scent of the earth and also Castelnuovo sky that creates au aura about Rancia for Riserva. The vineyard looms over the land and the fruit always marries with the earth to give away its character as it defies logic and does just this for the vintage. Each and every one actually, yet 2020 is warm and full, with pine and spice at the apex of Fèlsina’s usually aromatic display. A liqueur of macerating cherries season while more spice wakes and covers the palate, lingering and leaving memories behind. I will remember this Rancia, forever and always. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Fietri Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Express Gaiole savour, a verdancy unlike any other Chianti Classico commune or UGA. Crunchy red fruit like crusted cherries and of an intensity that has yet to dissipate, nor has this pure sangiovese softened in any way. There are layers to peel away and although the ripeness is not like 2019 it really doesn’t need to be. Speaks for the vintage and for Gaiole in correct ways, without apology and for longevity. Upper echelon 2020 Classico. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Definitely richer and also more overt structure from Panzano when you look at Fontodi’s Annata side by side with (Filetta di Lamole) and yet the vintage kinship is organized like cousins with familial ties. Finding high acid from 2020 and so all together there are many parts to put this vintage in the arena of long age-ability. Apt and ample viscosity makes for a mouthful of sangiovese and the variety always remains at the heart of a Classico by Fontodi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Rubiolo is 100 per cent Sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2020

All sangiovese from Castellina (40 per cent), Panzano (45) and a small amount from Badia a Passignano (in San Casciano). “A regular season, warm but not like 2022,” explains agronomist Giulio Carmassi and so ”maturation was corchato (shorter)” and harvest was compressed in to five or six days. Rains came late in September, causing a nervous and quick pick. A good vintage though not considered top and yet the purity of red fruit is present. Saw a 20-22 day maceration time in stainless with aging for eight months, half in old barriques. Sent to concrete and blended. A firmness and still some moments of tension about this Classico with a push-pull posit tug between freshness and maturity expressed as salumi, skins too and two-toned fruit; dried currants and fresh pomegranate. For early drinking in any case, starting six months from now. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole, Panzano

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Fulsome and chewy Riserva for Gagliole with 100 percent Panzano sangiovese part beautiful and part structured, by Galestro and Pietraforte soils. This fruit comes from the heart and epicentre of Chianti Classico Pietraforte with a warm 2020 delivering waves of fruit and mineral, alternating, integrating and soon to be evolving. This 2020 feels like a Riserva quite close to reaching its peak, likely in two years but the wealth of fruit means the door will open sooner rather than later. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023.

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2020, Lamole

A fine and lithe Annata from Susanna Grassi out of 2020 and yet without a doubt equipped with the fineness and beauty of eternal Lamole perfume. In a wonderful place right now, ease of fruit sliding on a corrente e snello scale, fine liquidity with a streak Of salinity. So apropos for Lamole and the varietal sangiovese it breathes. Spot on and restrained. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

“I don’t know why, but you will never see wines as dark as the 2020s,” tells Iacopo Morganti. Though truth is Il Molino Di Grace has never made less quantity and so concentration is as high as ever. Aside for hue this is “a nice Chianti Classico to drink now – my prelim is I don’t have enough,” says Morganti. Indelibly floral and stamped with quality approval, heady and yet elegant, forceful and elastic. Fine Galestro chalk of tannin and grip by Pietraforte. A different vintage and why shouldn’t it be? Happened during a pandemic and did its very own thing, without interruption and for all the right reasons. Magdalena Vineyard plays a big part in this level of appellative wine. These are simply grapes made into wine after all. Pure and real IMDG though with lower acidity and though big it’s easy to drink. Hyper real. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Molino Riserva

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Il Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Not just because of the extra year in bottle but also the kind of year, fruit more in red tones, effusive spoken language and elegance are what 2019 surely is. Acidity runs higher than 2020 and the wine while settling is still working through youthful energy. Still there are some bursts, fits and spurts from such a wine of vitality. Linear, less elastic but neither stringent nor too intense. Never vivid or glaring because it knows itself and what it wants to be. This will live long, that much is clear. Well, everything is very clear. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

As far as 2020 and Panzano are concerned there is a great deal of concentration and substance coming three ways from Il Palagio di Panzano’s Annata. Fruit, acid and tannin, all set to high intensity, each sucked and layered upon one another. A Classico in the great sense of the word and the appellation, pure and remarkable, not a sangiovese of any stringent notes despite how much has been pulled from these grapes. Juicy, no dustiness whatsoever and liquid running in soft waves. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Panzano Riserva in glycerin and unction, substantial fruit and long cask aging, macerate juices swirling and compounding in complex flavours. Some verdant notes that are earthy-savoury driven, pine tree and needle, fern and allium. Complex weave of saline and sapid elements with a toasty oak component yet having fully settled in. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Only sangiovese and from a vintage where the final days of September saw crazy spikes in heat with nights at freezing. So the fruit was picked on the 28th and here the first Gran Selezione of Emanuele Graetz’s young tenure. Chewy sangiovese with so much palate feel, mouthfeel and texture. Again a Chianti Classico that you will not have ever tasted before. Leathery and fruit-centric with fine tannins though not the kind that will see this age the way the 2019 surely will. The flavours here however are complex and their linger is seemingly never-ending. A remarkable wealth of precociousness and purity, almost as innocent as a wine can be, lucky and wholly professional all at once. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted February 2023

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda and Gaiole

Angela Fronti’s Annata is an expression of several vineyards, where rocks are such an important matter, in soils of Galestro plus Alberese, but also elevation and slope. The Classico’s grapes come mostly from Radda vineyards (Istine and Casanova dell’Aia) but also Gaiole (Cavarchione, Tibuca and Le Noci). Though a child of cool, calculated and mysterious ’21 there is quite a rouse of joy and untamed energy coming straight out of this pure sangiovese. Fronti has done well to coax pleasure with little tension or pain and as such you could very much have a glass as soon as you wish. Barrel sample or not and so when it does find its wine into bottle this 2021 will drink well from the start. Tasted February 2023

La Sala Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Casciano

With the oenological help of Stefano di Blasi it is this sangiovese from La Sala del Torriano that speaks in clear tones and terms. In San Casciano vernacular that translates as herbals and savour of the silkiest and sweetest kind. Like a dry Amaro, a chew of Australian liquorice and a lick of fine Maldon salt. Maybe some chocolate by the barrel at the finish. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Tiny production of Riserva here from La Vigna di San Martino ad Argiano in San Casciano and a curious example at that. Good ripeness and glycerol yet spiced, capsicum spicy and chalky within the context of pretty darn chewy fruit. All sangiovese and a wine certainly worth investigating to potentially really getting to know. Would like to put a few aside and see where they go. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Spiced aromatics, biscotti to ginger cookies, an eastern Panzano original, fresh and dusky, like the Frazione’s evening air. Tight and focused sangiovese, even more so Panzano on the palate, lightly glycerol and just so perfectly tart. Though a two-plus year old Annata this is really just about as fresh as it gets. Elevation contributes to the ideal, at 450m and near to the wines from Casole. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Aromas will remain consistent in 2020, first of a baked amaretti or ginger cookie, a lovely toasted cereal but with an extra year in bottle this Annata expresses more brushy savour, a dried fennel character and yet plenty of freshness persists. The dusty quality is consistent from vintage to vintage and speaks to sangiovese needing time in the bottle to unwind and express its true to Panzano fruit. This is sangiovese of silky tannin but the same thing cannot be said of the mouthfeel. There is more savoury grip involved. Time will continue to help. Track record shows this possibility will become probability. Last tasted February 2023

The Panzano work of Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini travels from strength to strength and while this ’19 Annata was only bottled one month ago it shows the best freshness and right kind of crunchiness here at the Chianti Classico Collection. Indelibly stamped with Le Cinciole and Panzano terroir, a combination of earth and fruit showing as well as any these days. Can’t help but relish the level of tart and eye-popping flavours with an immediacy of early drinking possibility. Terrific Annata in every respect. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted March 2022

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Aluigi Campo Ai Peri 2018, Panzano

Aluigi’s fruit is darker than the Annata, its tannins are just as silky and as for mouthfeel there is more smooth consistency and character than in the other Le Cinciole wines. A much bigger wine from a bigger vintage in part because it was hot and also when the last two days of September produced high level degrees of temperature by day but also low to near zero by night. This means a big Aluigi with high level acidity captured and kept to be a catalyst for dark fruit to shine and age. Age well this will though it will always be a wine of depth and heft. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Vicky Schmitt Vitali – Le Fonti di Panzano

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Classic Le Fonti and I mean what else but classic, as expected from fruit and producer so intrinsically connected it’s as though there is no separation between people and land. At this stage a maturity post reduction and locked in full freshness without steps taken towards the secondary. Spot on salt and pepper seasoning and a truly gastronomical sangiovese with soft merlot roundness plus hue-instigative colorino. Well blended and enjoyable in every respect. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

From 2018 there is the most crystalline clarity, purity and natural fruit sweetness from Le Fonti’s Riserva, this in spite of high level accumulated warmth and alcohol conversion rates. The merlot helps to smooth and silken the texture so that a seamless transition confirms the goal of invitation, to ideal phenolics and maximum pleasure. What this means for Vicky Schmitt-Vitali and Guido Vitali is a Riserva that speaks in their particular heart of Panzano language with a sangiovese so honest and direct, in every respect. Beautiful wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Panzano

Bigger wine in 2018, even more so than ’19, not because of stylistic choice or bigger dreams but simply because this part of Panzano experienced late season heat. Also cold nights and so Riserva’s acidity drives stride for stride with fruit, alcohol and tannin. Picking late ensured multi-toned ripeness and fully realized sangiovese dreams. An extreme vintage but one so well managed at Le Fonti because these custodians of Panzano are pragmatic survivors who can do nothing but fashion the most hospitable and nurturing Chianti Classico. It is the proprietors’ heritage, imperative and humanity. This is a wine of intensity and concentration, perhaps less fresh than 2019 but one that just may outlast that vintage in its own special way. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Barrel sample. Very taut, acids still running amok and wood very much in control. Blue to black fruit with a stop at purple, Gaiole savour and a whole mess of everything happening at once. Needs a minimum two years to settle in but there is plenty of stuffing to see brightness ahead. More than a bit early to make any lasting assessment. Tasted February 2023

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

A new look at Montefioralle and a tiny production for Chianti Classico of perfectly timed maturity. Though there is a simplicity about the character of this 2019 it is nothing if not a lovely glass of wine. The 20 percent mixing in of merlot and cabernet sauvignon just pushes the point further to understand that this is about here and now. Drink up CC lovers. This is a basic gateway drug. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Diego Finnochi and Elisa Arretini – L’Erta di Radda

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Barrel sample. Only Diego Finocchi presents sangiovese in Riserva this way. With grace and fluidity, liquid sapidity and Raddese acidity. No canaiolo in 2020, solo sangiovese and the balance shows, the major grape able to create the push-pull of posit salty to mineral tug without problem. There is tension mind you, but no issues to report on. There never are. Still it’s simply too early for full disclosure or assessment. Tasted February 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Tasting and assessing Lornano from 2020 at such an early stage feels unprecedented yet here we are and try we will to see the forest for the trees. Some tart angles and more than ample tannin yet clear and sweet they are in surround of fruit we just know will become fleshy and expansive. Again, this is sangiovese and time is of the matter. Patience for Lornano and their corner of Castellina. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

As with some other well known Chianti Classico producers that hold back Annata longer than most this feels strange to be tasting a 2020 from la Famiglia Losi. A most glycerol Castelnuovo Berardenga and one of impressive fruit though wood is very much a factor, imparting a floral and vanilla waft through the bones of the wine. That and what Alberese will instigate makes us understand that this sangiovese with sapidity catalyst canaiolo is not yet done what maturing it needs to do. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

More than markedly youthful Annata by Alessandro Palombo from a 2021 vintage we are still years away from figuring out. Reductive and coiled tight with acids proper wrapped around substantial fruit. Neither pepper nor rubber but simply fruit, structure and youth. Need to revisit a year from now to see what it’s all about. Judgement is a tad reserved. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Ottontuno 2019, San Casciano

Not simply stuck in a black hole of structure but this 2019 San Casciano Gran Selezione is of an immovable infrastructure that defines positioning and appellate category. Big boned and more of an impression left as opposed to expressiveness, at least now and likely for five more years. Needing the toasty wood and dense tannins to dissipate, things that will take quite a bit of time. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Marchesi Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

Perano glides as Riserva, smooth and suave, sangiovese ripe as necessary and just a few splashes of merlot tossed in for the good measure of sweet seasoning. Quite an easy drinking Riserva of 2019 generosity, the least amount of savoury elements possible as it pertains to Gaiole and these white calcareous soils of the Tenuta. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2021, Montefioralle

Barrel sample. A smallest of small production for Annata determines the effort and fate of this Montefioralle 2021. Just a touch of verdant behaviour touches the back end but this is poignant and proper for 2021 of classic and traditional Annata style. Tasted February 2023

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

A small lot and still peppery reductive sangiovese as Riserva from 2020. Quite toasty, smoky even and lots of green running around. Needs time and yet it will be hard to imagine these roasted and smouldering notes ever fully falling away, or melting in. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2021, Panzano

From a property purchased in September 2018 above the village of Panzano, direction Volpaia. One of 10 hectares planted to the MB33 clone with this being the third vintage and first time shown at an Anteprima. There was 800mm of rain ahead of the growing season and the vineyard’s elevation attracts high solar radiation juxtaposed against cooler night time temperatures. Also less rot than at Monte Bernardi with similar soils of Galestro and Pietraforte. Michael Schmelzer refers to hedge trimming as the way to maintain composure. From a viticultural standpoint 2018 is a vintage that separates the wheat from the chaff, with no rain during the season. “If you have different clones, say 420A and/or do not hedge trim, you can’t complain about irrigation,” says Schmelzer. “You’re throwing away water.” Not Michael and the early results of his new frontier vineyard determine a sangiovese bright-eyed, bushy-tailed, enthusiastic, happy and full of energy. What else can you say? MB33 is part of the fabric of Chianti Classico’s future. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Unexpectedly tannic vintage and also for what it means to be a Monte Bernardi Riserva. Less showy and forward than 2018 though the immediacy gained is again from a long 45 day post-fermentative maceration with higher than many stem inclusion. Higher than 2019 and 2021 in that regard. “I’ve reasons for what I do,” explains Michael Schmelzer. “My decisions are like my cooking instinct. I don’t follow the hard rules of a laboratory. I work on fundamentals, not relying on numbers.” Riserva is a matter of knack and intuition, salt and pepper seasoning, a Monte Bernardi style and best case scenario. Though grippy as a vintage there is haute and high caste toothsome piquancy in this 2020 and it may just fool us all by outliving the rest. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Greve from Montefioralle

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Barrel sample. Showing every minute not yet gained as a sangiovese with a few percentage points of various complimentary grapes (3) canaiolo plus (2) altri vitigni creating a push pull of saline-sapid notations. A bit swarthy and volatility needs to settle but a little bit of sulphur at bottling will do the trick. Tasted February 2023

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Lorenzo Sieni’s 2020 Annata is just perfectly Montefioralle, succulent through savoury and back again, acidity running up the sides of the palate and fruit round throughout. Never tries too hard nor demands too much, of itself or us, the willing and abiding tasters. Lovely Annata and perfectly expressive of time and place. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Alessandra Deiana and Michele Braganti, Monteraponi, Radda

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Ripe red fruit to the nth degree and a most natural feeling emitting from Michele Braganti’s 2021 Annata with a readiness ahead of many. A sweetness in the plums and citrus expressed as pure sapid tang with perfect help made to slide across the palate. This is a restrained and fine acid example with sneaky structure laying low, much like Beaune pinot noir, albeit in Chianti Classico. “You just have to wait,” shrugs Braganti. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Monterotondo Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Vaggiolata 2020, Gaiole

Good and plenty fruit with a twist in that additions of canaiolo and malvasia nera bring seasoning and spice. Travels well beyond salinity into aromatics and flavours from the spice rack and sapid sensations accrued. A crisp and crunchy Annata for 2020, spoken as Gaiole through the name Vaggliolata. Settling in nicely at this point and drinking really well. Savoury without overt greenness or toast. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2021, San Casciano

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2020, San Casciano

A singular Chianti Classico and also San Casciano expression with an almost San Donato in Poggio-like blood orange of red citrus expressiveness. Also textural, of glycerol and the savoury elements that while present are less what we think of when we consider San Casciano. Plenty of machinations in this 2020, of 80 per cent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, plus (5 each) pugnitello and colorino. Stands apart from the pack. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Traditional in so many respects and also a sangiovese plus five percent each endemic canaiolo and colorino for a doubling down of abiding respect to Castellina and all of Chianti Classico. Expertly tart and liquid chalky, a year away from integrating structure through the wine, to be followed by three to five years of fine drinking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2019, Castellina

Most curious aromatic 2019 from Piemaggio with Chinese five spice all over the waft. That and preserved strawberry, tar and roses. Quite nebbiolo like in some respects with different tannins of course. Cool and savoury, notable evergreen and mint, finely designed and amply structured. Good example of red Castellina while setting its own course of style. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Podere Capaccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The fineness of red fruit in layers and made to express breathes of fresh air in fine sprit by elevation in Radda sets this Podere Capaccia up for great success. Charming, graceful and yet grippy enough to stand up, defend its territory and survive for quite a stretch of time. Fine work from Alyson Morgan and team. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Graceful and charming sangiovese with smoothness and texture added poignancy by 10 per cent merlot puts this 2020 in great vintage standing. Yes it is so very San Donato in Poggio but it’s also Podere La Cappella in a nutshell. The Rossini wines always express and taste this way, like bleeds from white limestone and a ripeness befitting this place. Also freshness by winds from the sea running through as a relish and a vim that keeps your hold of the palate. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Very pretty 2018 Riserva, reddest of red fruit with that omnipresent streak of white Colombino limestone running through. Great and substantial fruit, high level acidity and my what fine tannins. A perfectly reasoned and seasoned Riserva for drinking 10 years. Easy. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

In Riserva form Podere La Cappella really sees a long developed through late picking sangiovese come to full fruition. Beautiful flesh and texture, fulsome fruit and sweetening acidity. Very fortifying with that blood orange to limestone bleed in great hyperbole. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2021, Radda

One thing you can count on is for Piero Lanza’s sangiovese to come out ripe as any in the territory and 2021 would surely not be an exception to the rule. The fruit is remarkable and the structural parts equally formative and formidable so I’m not sure Lanza has made such a wine in quite some time. Years are needed to settle the pieces, parts and puzzles of this magnanimous affair. Don’t care that Annata is the appellation. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2020, Radda

Once again why should there be any surprise to find Piero Lanza’s sangiovese from Radda in this state of heightened grace and exactly and correctly what it’s interpreted to be?Where else would a wine so big seem so balanced? How else to explain conversion rates at this level so ideally suited to vineyards that ripen to a point and then begin again? It’s a matter of listening to wind, grains of wood and sand, essence of minerals and elements, spoken through stone. This is Poggerino, anew and reborn, year after year. Nuovo. Last tasted February 2023

Piero Lanza’s 2020 is a bright, effusive and luminescent version of itself in that there seems to be a lightness of being and avoidance of rich density. Quite the aromatic lift this early and time around, floral, like roses, hibiscus and fresh tar, not unlike some Tortonian raised nebbiolo. As sangiovese there is sneaky structure in quantifiably knowable admonition and that is said in the most complimentary of ways. Radda chalk, sand and whole bunch verdancy bring complexities and the struggle is real. Disregard the appellative concept of Annata in part, because this should go long. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2022

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Lovely 2020 Annata from San Donato in Poggio though quite mature and resolved at this early juncture. Acids are still hopping and popping while the wood has done little melting into the overall feel of the wine. Seems like two parts are involved and integration may never fully happen. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Monica Raspi’s Pomona Annata is simply a beautiful expression of 2020 Castellina. Spiced and seasoned, just such correct tart and tang, crisp and pure with a swath of beautiful and natural swarthiness through the finish. When this finishes its journey the pieces will all have fallen into place and nothing will distract from pleasure. Kudos to Raspi for exulting the vintage to rise above the rest. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Firm and apropos of maker and location, reddest of red San Casciano fruit developed with purpose in vineyards graced by river stones of vines in the path of beneficial marine winds. You can feel the breathability and even a shade of saltiness streaking through the red berry aromas. Crisp, crunchy and then chewy as the wine fleshes across the palate. Duccio Corisini gets better and better at making wines of clarity and profundity. Grande Principe! Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2021, Castellina

Proper and well raised sangiovese but also conceived as Annata with trenchant purpose is the state of Jacopo di Battista’s most correct L’Aura. There is a sweetness of fruit and acidity rolling as one without much structural distraction though there is some underlying strength in subtlety to see this open with furthered aromatic style. A direction is taken and these are wines to try. If you have not yet joined the watch the time is now. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Purely, allegedly and unequivocally San Donato in Poggio here from Quercia al Poggio and an estate that writes the book on frazione definition. Sweetly natural red fruit from plum and citrus, tight and tart acidity but also warmth if kept fresh by breezes blown through. Another quality sangiovese from Vittorio and Paola with spicy bits and accents contributed by four supporting indigenous varieties. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

New directions, adjustments and mediations take Querciabella’s Annata into ever developing progressions and investigative accessing of new territory. Here from 2020 winemaker Manfred Ing finds new texture or next level mouthfeel for an Annata increasingly becoming and speaking on behalf of Greve and especially the Ruffoli hill. This vintage is not asked to over deliver and the statement made is one of drink-ability but also impression over expression. Top examples don’t try to impress – they simply do what’s necessary and so a deep impression is ultimately made. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just a beautifully silky, suave and smooth Annata from Renzo Marinai in 2019, expertly blended and having now matured into a great place at this stage of its evolution. Red fruit captured to what just has to be the most ripeness in phenolic terms, with tannins so sweet they melt at first contact with the palate. Gentle in every respect including woolliness, liquid pepper and verdant finishing notes. That’s where the 10 percent cabernet sauvignon makes its appearance. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

A fine and suave Riserva from the Panzano selection of Renzo Marinai, as much a Gran Selezione as many peers, open and fragrant, liquid swirl of sangiovese liqueur but also Cassis by 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon. Amenable and beautiful, handsome and sleek. Fine, fine wine. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2023

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

A clear and purposed Ricasoli Annata, standing on edge, pointed and direct to tell a story of tradition and five soils across many hectares of expertly managed vineyards. Grippy and firm, needing six months to a year in bottle, fine and expressive being the actions of the future. Hoping to see this released in the fall of 2023 in Ontario. That would be the right time to begin enjoying this wine. Impressive interpretation of Gaiole considering 600,000 bottles are made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

Dark fruit as per very specific locations in Chianti Classico and a Riserva of depth to be sure. The well is full of macerating cherries, fresh leather and wood spice for tradition kept but modernity acceded to install confidence in what today’s Riserva in many instances has become. Fulsome wine from Rocca delle Macìe, to no surprise. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Di Fizzano 2020, Castellina

The classicism of a Famiglia Zingarelli Gran Selezione from a single estate and a much smaller sku than most would expect. Just 26,000 bottles made and a top pyramid expression at a most affordable price for very specific markets, including Ontario which should be thankful for the gift. Crunchy and conversely chewy, wood a factor in vanilla plus chocolate, acids sharp and on point. Will live gracefully for a few years yet. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2019, Castellina

It just feels as though a Famiglia Zingarelli sangiovese will always act, emit and taste this way, that were this wine poured blind we would know the origin and the appellation. That being Gran Selezione and with 2019 the glare and obvious beautiful red mess of Castellina fruit is right there. The tops for substantial fruit as far as this GS is concerned and possessive an aging potential long and great. Should become one of Zingarelli’s finest. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

It seems that only Rocca di Castagnoli unearths this very specific kind of red fruit in Gaiole and it must be attributed to location but also elevation. Less herbal and savoury than almost all the rest of Gaiole but surely startling and vital in its very own way. This from 2021 is firm yet fair, chalky tannic but seemingly not a fortress unbreakable or formidable to gain access. A well characterized and nurtured Chianti Classico that will give back. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Riserva Ducale Oro 2018, Castellina

Suave and smooth, nary a tannic moment, easy drinking Gran Selezione. Not the most structured 2018 and very little tension but you can enjoy the wealth of fruit, wood and savour for three to four years while you wait for others vintages to settle in and open their doors. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2015, Castellina

Unequivocal Cellole profile, woollen and natural, earthen and full-bodied. The more this 2015 ages the more it smells and tastes like Cellole, the place. It simply exaggerates and hyperbolizes with each drop in tannin, each integrate connection between maturing fruit and those once über grippy tannins. Classic Calcinaia acidity bar none. Last tasted February 2023

Cellole is San Fabiano Calcinaia’s top tier Chianti Classico from Guido Serio out of Castellina in Chianti. There is always a curious and distinguishable aromatic profile in all their sangiovese but especially from the Gran Selezione. Part hematic and part natural in origin that is split between land and cellar. As for the vintage the sweetness of fruit and the thick texture it bleeds is the plasma and the oxygen that gives it breath. Expressly Castellina in deep red fruit and with a particular San Fabiano chalky twist. Opens and breathes some more with air and time. Well-framed and positioned at the price point for a good seven or eight year run. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted May 2020

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2010, Castellina

The third to last bottle of said vintage is opened for this tasting and what a treat to have a moment with this inaugural vintage of the Cellole as Gran Selezione. Showing its age in aromas to be sure and yet the palate is vibrant while oak flavours and spice are intrinsically pronounced. The swell is filled with soya, iodine, black cherry and a sanguine flood throughout. Tannins persist in a chalkiness as well but what is most fascinating is this gastronomy of a Gran Selezione. It just tastes like Tuscan cuisine and though a finger can’t be put on exactly what that is, well there is a gaminess, from dry-aged bistecca to picciona that makes this wine taste like it does. Then arrives the porcini, tartufo and orange zest. Complexities abound and all are pleased. Last tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG 2006, Castellina

A small amount of sangiovese joins trebbiano and malvasia bianco for Vin Santo from what is considered a top appellative vintage. Clocks in at 15 per cent after more than 10 years in caratelli, emerging as nutty and finely golden toasty as any in the biz. Hazelnut namely but also this gelid lemon and gingered orange crème brûlée flavour that lingers forever. As savoury as it is sweet so don’t confine this to dessert wine times. Begin the night with an ounce or two alongside the antipasti, preferably of a pâté, parfait or rillettes kind. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted February 2023

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Annata or anything else by San Felice can only act like a child and a rebellious one at that when tasted so early in its tenure. Barrel and tannin are far from ready to relent and allow their wine its due. There is a fortress door to open and the substance behind the gates lies in waiting to be free. Two years methinks before that becomes reality. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Fruit quite mature of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, a focused expression and very much the warmest of (western) Panzano style. You can taste the Bordeaux grapes in here, with a Cassis for sure but also some desiccation of small berries. Minty and a cherry stone bitterness on the palate with drying tannins. Give an hour of air and drink over the next three years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fruit quite fresh for 2018 and in a way more so than the following 2019, here again from a consistent blend of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Juicy Panzano expression, ready and willing to please, tannins softening now and acidity captured with truth. Raspberry and blueberry, fruit captured at peak and here an Annata with silky tannins, everything in line and ready to roll. Last tasted February 2023

Crunchy Panzano Annata here from Tenuta Casenuove, peppered as opposed to peppery, as if with freckles or micro-sized bits of earth. Plenty of salt and pepper seasoning but again nothing sharp or spicy about it and fruit so very berry red. Tasted March 2022

From the southwest corner of Greve in Chianti, southwest of Montefioralle and close to Panzano. Modish and modern for 21st century sangiovese is just this, stylish, chic and highly motivated. Quite fully developed and felt red fruit of glycerin, pectin and mouthfeel but you want more and more. Impressive magnitude in bringing so much fruit into the mix. Not overtly high in acid or tannin so use this early and often. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted twice, February 2020

Purple shales where the three UGAs of Montefioralle, Panzano and Greveconverge

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Panzano

A Riserva quite consistent with the ’18 Annata, than the 19s, fruit captured at a more harmonious induced state and ultimately juicier as a result. Tannins silky with plenty of glycerol in a Riserva of dark western Panzano caramelization. Would not wait to drink this 100 percent sangiovese because maturity is fully happening already. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

All in with sangiovese from Radda and the term in purezza rings true on so many levels. First by grape variety, second by commune/UGA from which acidity is expressly Raddese and finally for an Annata of superior clarity. Quality too, guaranteed and obvious as witnessed by a wine both getable now yet structured for longer than most would postulate and mistakenly choose the under to pontificate. The lines and ascension are perfectly incremental and Tenuta di Carleone will rise with the finest of the 2020s. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Tenuta San Vincenti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Soft, getable, smooth and silken sangiovese, made more so in this way by 20 percent merlot for a drink as soon as possible example for the vintage. A 2020 of fine style, simple, functional and professional. Relatively speaking this is a small lot Annata (at 20,000 bottles) and worthy of your attention. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Massimo and Cosimo Bojola – Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Massimo Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Squarcialupi 2020, Castellina

The label is a of a painter in the Squarcialupi Palace, drawn by Cosimo Bojola. Just over a year in medium sized cask, same vintage as the Amphora Chianti Classico yet darker of fruit which seems counterintuitive to this not remaining on skins for 11 months – as with the Cosimo Bojola. It’s the colorino, even at five percent doing the hue-mans work. Rich and unctuous, high acid tang, intense and a bit vivid. Stays its course all the way through, never wavering or being led to distraction, neither by overly aggressive tannins or astringencies. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

All sangiovese, subjected to a prolonged capello sommerso maceration for up to two months. Spends two years in smaller wood, 10 and 14 hL sizes and going forward there will be at least some amphora aging for this wine. Much meatier and marbled than both Annata with Cinta Senese muskiness and peppery finocchiona spice. Complex Riserva in so many respects, plenty of fruit substance with minerals popping in and out at every turn. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2016, Castellina

A 100 percent sangiovese made from the sace vineyard as Riserva, of same prolonged maceration a la Capello sommerso. Aging in small Tuscan barrels made near Rufina, barriques and tonneaux of size. Adds a tougher and grippier feel to sangiovese, unlike the softness of French barriques. This Selezione has settled well and the fruit is remarkably fresh. All parts of this ’16 are in order, in symbiosis repeated and layered, folding back upon itself again and again. Ready to drink, wholly enjoyable, now and for a few more winters. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Dense and fulsome, as always with generous barrels exaggerating the macerate pool in which thick and viscous sangiovese with five percent cabernet sauvignon swims. An intense example, especially at Annata level and though the tannins are a bit hard and drying there is ample to substantial fruit to handle the realities of this wine. Wait two years. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Mainly stainless steel fermentation plus some open top fermenters, followed by 16 months in large (30 hL) botti. A mix of the younger plantings from all three vineyard sites; Terreno, Montefioralle and in some vintages also Sillano across the valley from Terreno up against the Monti del Chianti. Makes up approximately 35-40 percent of the total (80,000 bottle) production. The 2019 is the Annata on the market and this will likely be released later in the Spring. Approachable like many 2020s of darker fruit and a roundness making this ready as soon as anyone would wish to drink it. Already at this stage the freshness and generosity meet at a point of open amenability. Good flesh on the bone and also like biting into red stone fruit. Clarity and purity. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Greve

Sangiovese plus 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, (5) colorino and mainly Bonnille Vineyard across the valley from Terreno, of eight hectares on Alberese soil purchased in the 90s to add to the existing seven at Terreno. Similar altitude upwards of 350m and a warm vintage leading to 14.5 percent alcohol. Open top fermenters called Mastella are used for the fermentation, introducing oxygen and yet keeping a cap above for a wet journey through to the transfer for aging in big barrels. A Riserva of sanguinity and also animale, a lovely salumi and also raw meat muskiness that speaks to making an appellative wine from a very specific place. Good structure here as well, showing signs of life to live until the end of the decade. Really good work here from the vintage. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno, Greve

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2019, Greve

Asofia is only from the oldest vines planted in 1980 and 2019 i the first vintage labeled as Gran Selezione. Previous it was a single-vineyard slash cru-designate, 100 percent Chianti Classico. A much more pinpointed and focused wine as compared to the Classico, aromatically charged with Alberese and clay as the soil source abutting the Chianti Mountains. A maturity and concentration of fruit as per the old vines that lend experience and fullness. Picked on the 4th of October and it shows in the phenolic quality, upwards of let’s say 8.5, pushing nine out of 10 on that hypothetic scale. Brush and cooler climate from the surrounding woods lends a savoury element to this wine and in Greve terms there is an almost Lamole at elevation and perfumed aspect of this hyper specific sangiovese. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2019, Montefioralle

One of two Gran Selezione and harvested almost a week later on October 10th, referring to the place and little church near the village of Montefioralle. From 500m on calcareous soils (Essentially Alberese), not Formazione di Sillano as might have once been supposed because of the name of the place. No barriques or tonneaux, aged 24 months in 12 and 24 hL oak, finishing at 13.5 percent, much apposite to 2018 that finished at 15 percent. This is purely Montefioralle, exquisitely so, cool and fresh, elegant and if this isn’t an ideal vintage for the UGA then I for one will have no idea what is. Purity of parochial red fruit and a temperate state of being, calm and relaxed. The tension lies hidden in the shadows of this wine, non-explicit and as a result the sangiovese seems non-plussed. The tannins are upright, timely yet taut. All this to say that Sillano will be ready just a bit later than Asofia and will also live just that much longer. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Lovely aromatic swirl emanates from the Vallenuova 2021 and the capture is pure Castelnuovo Berardenga, regardless of how ubiquitous that may sound, or seem. This is the sangiovese of great and wide open space, of crisp air and therefore freshness but also dusty qualities that speak to grape and place. Wait a year and drink for three to four thereafter. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tolaini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Montebello Sette 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Hard to pick a better vintage from which to create a Montebello for the ages. Here a pure Castelnuovo sangiovese that sings, in warm weather and were it to rain, happily anyway, structured and built to last a lifetime. This is Tolaini’s success, their benchmark at the top appellative level, so right, correct and true. Bravo. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted February 2023

Vallone Di Cecione Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

It just feels like a wine from Vallone di Cecione and the amazing thing is you only need to taste one or two wines, three or four years running to recognize the gentle breeze of sapidity running through the subtle swarthiness of their sangiovese. With canaiolo too, for that sapid streak cutting into acidity, extending the character of complexity and yet the unction of Panzano is the final call. This 2020 is exacting for VdeC. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castellina

Classic Trasqua lightning, purity of red fruit for Castellina incarnate, well matured being from the ideal 2019 vintage. Yet as with the tradition of Trasqua time is the essence to define how this sangiovese (with four other grapes mixed in), they being five percent each merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and (3) alicante bouschet. Together all will travel, take it easy and in another year culminate at peak. Not sure this producer has crafted a better Annata in recent times, or ever for that matter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Well matured and by now ready to rock and roll sangiovese with just a few splashes of merlot to deliver an herbal dissolve through black cherry fruit and high acidity. A fine vintage for the Montefioralle estate, silken and cool, almost tarragon-minty and as stylish as it comes for the UGA. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Pruning at Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, IGT Toscana

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2018, IGT Toscana

Feels like 2018 Gratius is in a bit of a dumb phase, like what can happen with pinot noir, especially from Bourgogne. This is not Iacopo Morganti’s favourite vintage of Il Gratius but this is the misunderstood child and it will bloom late, or again. While it feels a bit sleepy now (some would say old) it should be looked at in the light of mature and experienced. A prime sample of a single vineyard made in low quantities for what the land needs to say. Last tasted February 2023

Bottled just before the Chianti Classico 2019, so just three weeks ago. A blend of sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino, as it’s its nature and privilege. The sangiovese is taken from the vineyard on top of San Francesco’s hill, adjacent the canaiolo and colorino vineyards. A limited (3-5,000 bottle) production, a wine that’s all about selection (from two vineyards) and elevating craft to the highest of Il Molino di Grace levels. Still sees some barriques but going forward the plan should be to age only in large casks. The chewiest and most textural of the wines, with sapidity and colour matching salinity, acidity and savour. Drama but one in complete control, that is Gratius. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2022

With Giulio Carmassi and Cosimo Soderi at Gagliole, Panzano

Gagliole 2019, IGT Colli Della Toscana Centrale

Could be labeled as a Gran Selezione but it began in 1993 as a Vino da Tavola with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon mixed into the Castellina sangiovese, changing in 2013 to only Panzano and as of 2018 it has been 100 per cent sangiovese. Comes from the Pietraforte soils but also some Galestro involved and in turn the balance comes about in a sangiovese round and at other moments squared. Accessible and conversely agreeable, more well rounded ultimately speaking and less about tension or grip. The kind of structure that is both sneaky and stretched so that time can only improve the experience. Two more years will really see it all come together. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Pecchia 2016, IGT Colli Della Toscana Centrale

Called Pecchia since 1999, from a Castellina vineyard of the same name and a second block (closer to Fonterutoli’s Siepi). The name remains the same and yet since 2013 the sourcing is all estate grown Panzano, from a block at the top of the property on pure Pietraforte soil. Here from a most beneficial 2016 for a sangiovese that has matured quite a bit and yet the acidity is intense, the tannins solid as the hard rock of the vineyard and the ability to keep changing will surely be a thing of many more years to come. The mix of tension and resolution is quite there. An IGT of wisdom and also potential, stiff and solid yet singing with feeling based on experience and years under oath. Most intriguing wine that will become a Gran Selezione as of 2018. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

Isole delle Falcole Merlot 2020, Toscana IGT

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2017, Toscana IGT

As a reminder Sangioveto’s vineyard is called Scanni, sangiovese planted in 1968 by Laura Bianchi’s father Fabrizio and first harvested in 1974. Not sure these adept and adroit grapes have ever experienced a vintage like 2017 and yet Sangioveto defies the vintage’s absurd levels of aridity and heat by expressing freshness and exceptional acidity. Hard to believe how the essence of Monsanto’s San Donato in Poggio could be secured but ’17 succeeds with core clarity and tolerance. There is some caramel in the flavours but that’s only after the uncanny scent of prosciutto, salty and sweet, peppery and herbal. The vintage delivers purity and layers of fascination for the palate to absorb. High gastronomy Sangioveto indeed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 1990, Toscana IGT

When you reflect upon Sangioveto 1990 as a sangiovese 22 years post original planting and 16 after first vintage then you understand it was already an experienced sku. Consider 1990 as a great vintage in the Chianti Classico territory and now this original standard bearer of San Donato in Poggio quality becomes something deserving of your highest attention. Laura Bianchi’s father Fabrizio foresaw the best of the best from this block and to follow both 1988 and 1989 meant serious business. This particular bottle is nominally advanced, with earthy tones while affirmed of Sangioveto’s haute acidity and formidable structure. Tart fruit, citrus included, persistent intensity and salumi musk are all there. Though this bottle is not fully indicative of 1990’s quality it’s parts are brilliant, even if they don’t add up to the expected whole. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2020, Toscana Bianco IGT

A blend of 50-50 chardonnay and trebbiano, honeyed in hue both by some days of skin contact and some advanced maturation at nearly three years of age. Only sees stainless steel. Can’t miss the terpenes and orange pekoe tea while acidity is quite prominent in delivery of lemon and orange through promiscuous flavours. An absolutely unique take on Toscano Bianco that startles with its freshness and how expectation turns to incredulousness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2019, Toscana IGT

Cerviolo Rosso is composed from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot, an ironic name for a wine considering how many grapes these little deer will consume in any given given vintage. Raised only in tonneaux and one of the few IGTs with no sangiovese though before 2012 there was some in the mix. The idea was to separate from Gran Selezione when that appellate category became part of the portfolio. This dates back to 1986 and here from 2019 the tannins are fierce, the fruit black and the connection thick as thieves. Man does this need years to resolve though the ripeness is light years ahead of the recent past and the style is all Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2014, Toscana IGT

Same blend (as seen going forward to 2019) of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot just a few years after sangiovese was removed from the mix. This from what was seen at the time as a disastrous vintage and yet time has been kind because first the lowest of low quantities due to stringent selection meant that only top berries were used. Second, time has helped in ways it just can’t effect after the warmest of seasons. This is settling in nicely with a recent relent of tannin but the swarthiness is purely Calcinaia and so with age there is a most obvious connection noted between this Bordeaux blend and the Cellole Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tentute Squarcialupi Galaverna Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero

The name refers to the ice that forms on the leaves of trees in winter. First sparkling wine for Squarcialupi made from malvasia bianca, two months on the fine lees in tank followed by 18 more in bottle. No dosage ”an experiment 100 percent because you don’t find sparkling wine made from malvasia in Chianti,” says Cosimo. Dry and delicious, of great fruit matched by equal and opposing acidity. Picked a month ahead of when it would be were it used in table wine with a potential alcohol of 10.5, translating to approximately 12 percent (minimum) at the end. Straight citrus, linear and richer than might be imagined. Impressive first effort leaving lime and tonic at the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Chardonnay Rugiada 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

From a vineyard at 600m, the highest of Squarcialupi’s 33 hectares, made with two different selected yeasts. First a non-Saccharomyces strain, then after there days a Saccharomyces is added. Goes through malolactic and then stays on lees for three months, in tank. Snappy, green apple style chardonnay, grippy, linear and of a fine citrus line, namely lime. You really feel the calcari at the finish. A difficult place to cultivate because of the Alberese but more so the Colombino, less yellow and much harder ock predominating a limestone soil. Fantastic length. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Dama d’Ambra Vinificazione in Amphora 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

A varietal malvasia aged in amphora, normally picked in the second half of October, less fresh and spirited as compared to chardonnay. Fermentation happens after de-stemming and crushing, in amphora with skins for six months. White balsamic, lemon curd and “for us it’s a white wine not just for fish but antipasti and pasta with white ragù,” tells Cosimo. “It’s a light red wine.” This is the third vintage, no longer just an experiment but now a going concern. Fine bitters, savoury botanicals, dry tonic, fino, green olives and a perfectly pleasant balance. Very well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Rosato Di Caparso 2020, Toscana IGT

A selection of 100 per cent sangiovese, 48 hours on skins, no saignée, only run-off juice. Feels so pure and natural, sour tart, candied rose to sweet basil with a pause at pink grapefruit. Far from your dry and pale Provençal style but arid and intense in its own special way. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Rosato Di Caparso NV, Toscana IGT

The most basic of Paolo’s sangiovese, non-vintage here but in reality it is mostly 2019. Some years there is more blending involved, especially if a cold vintage is at the centre. Seasoned and a little bit spicy, simpler drinkable and finishing at herbs, both fresh and dried. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Amphora Di Caparsa 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Direct from amphora, trebbiano and malvasia, fermented and rested together for five month to six months, unfiltered, bottled with sediment. A tisane of lemon grapefruit and pekoe, so very tannic and of a salve texture though slippery, sliding away and not leaving its paste trailing and sticky behind. Still so young and not really in any real charming stage. Promising. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Amphora Di Caparsa 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

A Bianco from amphora, made with trebbiano and malvasia, fermented, aged together for up to six months, unfiltered, bottled with sediment. Always a tisane, now a year in bottle showing as a honeyed lemon and orange lozenge, decreasingly tannic, settled and ready. A finer vintage as compared to 2022, seamless, graceful, silkier and alluring. There is fantasy and emotion in 2021. Perhaps 2022 will develop a similar personality with a year in bottle. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Bianco Di Caparsa 2019, Toscana IGT

A mix of trebbiano and malvasia but just fermented on skins for a few hours, pre-dating the amphora methodology. Apple and lemon jelly, simple, fresh somehow still and far less interesting than the amphora whites that will follow. Drink 2023. Tasted February 2023

Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Filippo Bianco Frizzante Metodo Classico

Made by Paolo Cianfiero’s son Filippo of 100 percent sangiovese, oxidative, energetic, citrusy and pretty fucking delicious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Sassello 2000, Toscana IGT

Like the 2004 Riserva there has been less evolution in 2000 Sassello, the sangiovese that will eventually become the first of two Gran Selezione for Verrazzano. There is certainly more concentration and compaction but the freshness is astounding and the generosity so appreciated 22-plus years forward from vintage. Top quality acidity season bar none. How can we not envision up to five more similar and ten full years of good drinking from this Sassello? Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Professore (Screw Cap) 2020, Toscana Bianca IGT

Terreno Professore (Cork) 2020, Toscana Bianca IGT

Made with petit manseng and roussanne (90 percent), plus (10) malvasia bianca and trebbiano, harvested mid-September and aged in wood for 11 months. An experiment to look at screw cap versus cork that Sofia and Giacomo are hoping will answers questions. Well – what can you say because the wine under screw cap is corked while the wine under cork is singing. Filtration issue? Cap problems? Bottled at the same time however so the issue must be with the cap somehow. In any case this is a most curious and frankly delicious white blend, rich and viscous with just a hint of barrel induced flintiness. White flowers and honeysuckle with a glycerol aspect to make it seem richer than it is in terms of residual sugar, so let’s say 2.5-3 g\L. Lovely mineral-metallic finish with lime and tonic. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

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When frost strikes, Chianti Classico responds

Apr10

Assessing bud damage to Sangiovese, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano (c) Duccio Corsini

Difficult times call for desperate measures and if these last 14 months have taught Italians anything, taking nothing for granted is surely at the top of the list. If you are a grape grower, or any agriculturalist for that matter then the one thing you almost come to expect and dread more than anything is the arrival of a Spring frost, after bud-break. That worst nightmare has come to parts of Chianti Classico (along with Montalcino, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte and Bourgogne) in the week following Easter. The worst hit area may be Maremma and the Tuscan coast. The reports coming out of the Gallo Nero territory are not what we would have wanted to hear from and for our friends in the Tuscan provinces of Firenze and Siena.

Fires in the vineyard, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano (c) Duccio Corsini

Chianti Classico is a proud and noble territory with just slightly only 10 per cent of its hectarage registered to vineyard space. The last three vintages were all relatively stress free, especially those of 2018 and 2019, whereas in 2020 the vegetative life cycle began during a global pandemic and yet farmers had nothing but time to tend to their vineyards during lockdown. In 2021 the sangiovese vines came to life early, following a decent and mostly proper winter though one that ended in haste, turning over to warm March temperatures. And now, even if the potential for disaster has struck, hope and resilience prevails.

Temperatures dipped to overnight lows of minus six degrees celsius, dangerous and potentially fatal to the youngest sangiovese vines, especially in low-lying areas where frost settles on lower slopes and valley floors. It really is too early to fully assess the extent of the damage but the range, based on comments heard thus far, is anywhere from near zero in the highest reaches and oldest vineyards to anywhere between 50 and 100 in other areas. I have spent a good part of Friday evening until now talking with producers and here are their stories. There is much concern but always hope, pragmatism and a collected, positive outlook. The comments and images are still coming in so I will update the story as it goes.

*** Editor’s note: Comments from 35 producers are now posted, including new images

The frost in 2017 was much worse than this

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi

Fontodi, Panzano, April 9th, 2021 (c) Giovanni Manetti

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi: “We had a couple of days very cold, April 6th and 7th but the damages are limited to the young vines. The majority of the buds of the other vines were still closed and were not hurt by the frost. In the rest of the CC territory there were some damages in the warmer areas and zero in the cooler ones like Radda and Lamole. The frost in 2017 was much more worse than this. It is very hard to say how much quantity has been lost in CC but I think not too much.”

Duccio Corsini, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano: “San Casciano has the habit of being in (bud-break) advance. Minus two celsius came the morning of the 7th (5:00 to 7:00 am) and we made it with no damage. Minus five came from 4.30 to 6.30 am on the 8th. We kept the prunings in piles for this event. At 4:45 am Le Corti was on fire were possible. To this we added the use of the spraying machines vents to move air and create circulation. I hope the experiment (very artisanal) helped to reduce damage. So far the damage goes from 10 to 40 per cent on sangiovese in the best expositions. Nothing on merlot (that is still sleeping). Fico vineyard (solo sangiovese) is safe. Marsiliana on the coast is a different story. All merlot was burned from minus seven on the morning of the 8th. Total loss on 6 hectares. We are collecting info from San Casciano producers and news so far is not good on sangiovese.”

Villa Calcinaia
(c) Conte Sebastiano Capponi

The damage is still difficult to evaluate since many buds hadn’t broken yet

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia, Greve: “Unfortunately Jack Frost has visited us again this year, three times in the last quinquennium, and the damage is still difficult to evaluate since many buds hadn’t broken yet. I think it would be less than 2017 but we certainly could have done without it. The worst night was Wednesday because it had just rained a little and that spiked the humidity beyond 90 per cent. In fact in the areas of Montefioralle where it hadn’t rained the damage was less intense. The varietal more heavily hit was the sangiovese as canaiolo, mammolo, montepulciano and merlot buds break usually later. Funnily enough the sangiovese buds, like in Vigna Bastignano, that already the leaves out were less damaged than the swollen ones. An igloo effect saved them? I wonder… Vines will adapt but in order to accelerate the process though I will start selecting biotypes of Sangiovese with late bud-break from our collection for the new plantings.”

It’s going to be a slim harvest! Climate disruption…again!

Roberto Stucchi-Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono

Roberto Stucchi-Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole: “The frost hit badly, temperatures dipped to minus four and even minus six degrees celsius in the lower parts; unfortunately the buds had an early start so they were all ready to go. The damage is probably over 50 per cent but we will assess it better next week. It’s going to be a slim harvest! Climate disruption…again! Sad.”

Young Sangiovese buds, fires in the vineyard, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano
(c) Duccio Corsini

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia, Radda: “This frost was really what we weren’t looking for! Luckily in Volpaia the damages are not very much, the altitude has helped us. Unfortunately, unexpectedly we had a very strong and unpredictable frost. We will see in the next few days, but I think we had several damage 😦 “

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri, Lamole: “We are OK, but as you said in Tuscany, as in many other places, we had frost during two nights. We will see in a couple of days the true damage.”

After the frost, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano (c) Duccio Corsini

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti, Panzano: “Le Fonti is positioned quite open to the winds so most vineyards fared OK with the frost. Only one small patch protected by trees and bamboo at the bottom of the valley got freeze burned. The other side of the valley got hit worse so we have to be grateful with all. Not that 2021 is much better so far than 2020… a mess worldwide. Heard that Montalcino got hit badly and some areas in Emilia-Romagna and Piemonte. France of course was all over the news. Really when it rains it pours. Iacopo had said that Molino di Grace got hit quite badly as well. Lucarelli (small village underneath Molino) is always very cold and our tractor driver lives there and said that his house was minus six the past few nights. All fruit trees burned but his vines had not been out yet so he was lucky.”

Nature is amazing because it might react in surprising ways

Francesco Ricasoli, Barone Ricasoli

Francesco Ricasoli, Barone Ricasoli, Gaiole: “We have been hit by the frost but the real entity of the damage will be clear in five to seven days. I estimate 30 or 40 hectares hit by frost but the per cent of loss is not clear yet. Nature is amazing because it might react in surprising ways.”

Healthy sangiovese bud, Geggiano, Castelnuovo Berardenga, first days of April, 2021 (c) Andrea Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli

Michael Schmelzer, Monte Bernardi, Panzano: “We too had a couple of sub-zero nights and certainly had some loss due to frost damage. We were fortunate in that not many of our vines had their first leaves exposed yet so we are hoping the damage is very limited.”

Andrea Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli, Geggiano, Castelnuovo Berardenga: “We spray the vines with salts of Zeolite but they help only up to minus one celsius. And so we have had a loss of about 30 per cent.”

Sangiovese bud after the frost, Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, April 8, 2021 (c) Valeria Losi

Valeria Losi, Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga: “It depends on the position of the vineyards: We have had some loss but that should be around 20-25 per cent. I heard friends with a different position that lost 50 per cent. And producers from the Tuscan coast even higher.”

Angela Fronti, Istine, Radda: “It’s not good, but better than in other areas of production. The budding was not 100 per cent complete so I hope for production. It’s terrible, you can do nothing, only waiting. We have to see. I hope the damage is less than what we can see now.”

Frost damage to sangiovese buds, Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, April 8, 2021 (c) Valeria Losi

Victoria Matta, Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve: “We have been affected in some vineyards, the ones with vegetation further ahead. Unfortunately the unexpected hot temperatures of two to three weeks ago have permitted the vines to grown faster than usual so the cold temperature of days ago affected these. The real problem was the unusual heat of mid-March. We will be ready for next year with anti-frost candles. That is the climate change, unfortunately.”

Tommaso Marocchesi Marzi, Bibbiano, Castellina: “We have a rough and quick assessment of a minus 30-40 per cent of the production. The lower slopes have been largely hit and the areas around 280-300m of altitude were safer.”

Frost effect on sangiovese buds, Fattoria Pomona, Castellina (c) Monica Raspi

Dario Faccin, Carobbio, Panzano: “Unfortunately the frost hit hard but fortunately some vineyards were still standing. I hope the weather can be mild from now on.”

Federico Cerelli, Gabbiano, San Casciano: “The frost was just what we didn’t want right now…but anyway for the wineries I’m working with in Chianti Classico:

– Gabbiano : In the night between Wednesday and Thursday there was another sharp drop in temperature. The temperature dropped to minus five in the area where the sangiovese had already germinated. Unfortunately the treatment worked well enough on Wednesday morning, but on Thursday morning the temperature was too low. Merlot, cabernet and syrah were not damaged. It is still too early to make an estimate for sangiovese. We pruned long this year and we need to understand how many grapes will make in the second buds.

– Radda in Chianti (Poggio di Guardia): Thanks to high altitude (700m) the vines were completely stopped so no damage.

– Greve in Chianti (vineyards around Greve village): All the new vineyards are affected, regarding the old one some damage but at this stage is not early to estimate the damages, as we can not forecast what the impact on fertility will be.

– Vagliagli area : All the lower vineyards are affected but again too early to forecast the real damage in quantity of grapes lost. The higher vineyard we don’t have damages.

Damage by Nottua, parasitic bugs that eat the young buds, Fattoria Pomona, Castellina in Chianti (c) Monica Raspi

Francesca Semplici, Fattoria Montecchio, San Donato in Poggio: “Unfortunately we had burned vines for two cold nights. We lost a part of our production also this year, like last year but for iced rain :-(“

Beatrice Ancillotti, Castello di Monterinaldi, Radda: “Fortunately, here in Radda in Chianti we are a little behind with budding. We had some problems on the lower vineyards, those closest to the river. Monday I will go back to check (because the damage shows a few days later). I’ll let you know if the situation is worse.”

Lighting vineyard fires by night, Bindi Sergardi, Castelnuovo Berardenga (c) Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi

Giacomo Nardi, Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina: “Since we are on the lower slope of Castellina in Chianti, the vegetative phase was not yet advanced, luckily the damage was not so great. I would estimate the damage at five to 10 per cent, but I will be able to understand better in the coming weeks.”

Crossing fingers looks it’s becoming the most popular sport discipline all over the world in these last two years

Alessandro Palombo, Luiano

Filippo Cresti, Carpineta Fontalpino, Castelnouvo Berardenga: “The cold has hit different areas. It did not have a uniform incidence. Personally we had parcels affected by 10 to 25 per cent, some vineyards near to zero damage. We were lucky, other areas much less than us. Some varieties of sangiovese in Carpineta were further back and this protected them. From now we are waiting only the sun and the good season.”

Vineyard fires smoulder at dawn, Bindi Sergardi, Castelnuovo Berardenga (c) Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi

Luca Polga, Podere Campriano, Greve: “For us and many of Montefioralle’s winemakers this has been two difficult days. In some areas temperatures reached minus seven degrees celsius. Here it’s too early to understand the damages, fortunately we were a little bit late, so many gems were still closed and we really really hope were not burned. In a few days we will know.”

Alessandro Palombo, Luiano, San Casciano: “It’s been like a punch in the nose. Vines have been affected and the spirit of the troops was too! Early April frost usually happens and this hit a lot of early blossoming buds. It generally lowers the yields but still leaves the vineyard productive. This year’s drop in temperature was different, it went down to levels that may affect the buds that were still closed or lightly open. In this second case the impact will be severe. We’ll see it in a couple of weeks. We keep our fingers crossed… crossing fingers looks it’s becoming the most popular sport discipline all over the world in these last two years.”

Sangiovese buds braving the frosts, Bindi Sergardi, Castelnuovo Berardenga (c) Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi

Alyson Morgan, Podere Capaccia, Radda: “Here at Capaccia we are pretty safe since the vineyards are all over 350 meters. But we did have damage on vines that we planted last year to replace some missing vines….those young vines bud out early and are more susceptible. There was significant damage in the warmer, more exposed regions like Castelnuovo Berardenga. I have a friend that probably lost 50 per cent of the sangiovese. Their temps went down to minus seven Celsius!! In Radda the temps were low in the valleys and in the colder areas (example Caparsa), but those areas are further behind in the development so there was nothing to damage. If we can get through April without any more frost, the season will be fine. We are FINALLY getting some rain today, it has been so dry for so long. So all in all, a positive assessment from the frost.”

Monica Raspi, Fattoria Pomona, Castellina: “We had some trouble in different parts, the new vineyard was in advance and many buds are burnt. I would like to bend those plants next year, but I think that will be impossible. The others vineyards more or less are OK. Most of buds are still closed, and I think they were protected.For many producers it is a disaster. E poi c’è la Nottua. Che si mangia le gemme…and then there is the Nottua (parasite). That eat the gems.”

Post frost sangiovese, Il Molino di Grace, Panzano (c) Iacopo Morganti

Chiara Leonini, Fèlsina, Castelnuovo Berardenga: “Yes, temperatures went below zero for two nights, Thursday and Friday last week. In Fèlsina vineyards the budding was just at the beginning, a bit more forward in the Pagliarese area. We had a few small problems at Fèlsina, something more at Pagliarese, where we expect a loss of about 20 per cent. it could have been much worse if the temperatures hadn’t risen. Everything is under control now, it is raining today and it is a good things, with 15 degrees.”

The recent late frost wave has caught Radda unprepared but luckily still half asleep, like ‘Sleeping Beauty’ in the forest.

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti, Radda: “As you well know, Radda has always been a ‘late bloomer’ in all senses : in the past 2.700 years all neighbouring areas in Chianti have developed better and faster than Radda, economically, culturally and …. in terms of vegetation in the vineyards. Climate change – along with a new awareness and some more holistic knowledge – have radically upset the situation. Former handicaps have become the keys to balance and quality, where correctly managed. All this to tell you, caro mio, that the recent late frost wave has caught Radda unprepared but luckily still half asleep, like ‘Sleeping Beauty’ in the forest. Buds were still closed in most of the areas here and random minor damages are recorded in some low-located, creek-close vineyards and/or unexpectedly also in hedge vineyards. Some evident damages are reported there, where vegetation was ahead, especially in young vineyards (one to three years). All together Radda terroir reports not dramatic damages, affecting maybe overall around 10 per cent of total vineyard surface. Far away from what has been reported to be a scaring situation in the areas around San Casciano, West Castellina, West Panzano, South Gaiole and Castelnuovo Berardenga, traditionally a couple of weeks ahead of Radda by vegetation. Sadly, many friends in Montalcino and in the Maremma have reported devastating damages in their areas, affecting sometimes 80 per cent of the vintage production. The same in Langa. One fears that the 2021 overall production in Tuscany and Piedmont could possibly drop this year by 50 per cent !!!! All we hope now is that spring takes it ways steadily. Good rain has been coming down for the past 48 hours and this was really needed.”

Young sangiovese buds at Rocca delle Macìe, April 2021 (c) Sergio Zingarelli

Natascia Rossini, Podere La Cappella, San Donato in Poggio: “Not easy to assess now the damage from cold temperatures… maybe in a few weeks we will have more clear details. It seems the low parts of vineyard (150m) are the ones more damaged. Bruno says that probably we lost 10-15 per cent of production.”

A very important frost but not more than 2017 and 2020

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina: “Such an intense period…We had two nights, the 6th & 7th, with very low temperatures mostly concentrated in the early morning hours between 5 and 8 am. The biggest damage has been to the vines in the lower vineyards (under approx. 280m) where there was more humidity. Other damage is seen in the “higher” vineyards to the younger vines that were growing faster. A very important frost but not more than 2017 and 2020. As you know we have four different estates in Castellina in Chianti with different soils, exposures, altitudes … and the most affected are Sant’Alfonso (lower altitude, mostly clay soil) and the lowest side of Fizzano. Le Macìe, keeping our fingers crossed, have not been affected. We’ve just had two great and very useful days of rain which is sure to give new starting energy to the vines for next days…”

Sangiovese buds burnt by frost, Rocca delle Macìe, April 2021 (c) Sergio Zingarelli

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio: “We had last week two dangerous nights with minus one to two degrees celsius. For sure there has been some damages above all in the sides of the vineyards located in less ventilated areas. The varietal with more damage is chardonnay. We now need to see the situation in the next weeks, also a light frost can reduce the strength of the buds and this will effect the flowering. For sure less production in 2021 but hopefully a great one.”

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena, San Donato in Poggio: “Yes, temperatures have been low and we did get damages. Not able to quantify how bad though…but three mornings in a line, and it seems it’s not over yet. What can we do? This is our business, and we have never to forget the big scenario. We are lucky to work mostly with red wines for aging, so we carry a good stock and are able to average the disaster. Much worse for our friends colleagues producing only whites…”

Leonardo Bellaccini, San Felice, Castelnuovo Berardenga: “We have lost 30 per cent of sangiovese at San Felice. We expect another small crop wishing for an outstanding quality.”

Rocca delle Macìe, April 2021 (c) Sergio Zingarelli

What else can I say to our friends in Chianti Classico but best of luck with this latest challenge and exasperating need to wage such a battle, but I know them well enough to say that resilience is what they are all about. The same holds true for sangiovese vineyards. Grandi abbracci e spero presto si possa nuovamente viaggiare e ci si possa rivedere per un buon bicchiere di vino.

Good to go,

Godello

Assessing bud damage to Sangiovese, Villa Le Corti, San Casciano (c) Duccio Corsini

Twitter: @mgodello

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Four questions to Chianti Classico

Aug31

The Gallo Nero, Chianti Classico

Timely questions to 17 Chianti Classico producers about their appellative wines, how and why they do what they do, plus their reflections on the state of Italy’s battle with Covid-19 and projections for the 2020 harvest

by Michael Godel

Over the past four and a half years I have written about, extrapolated upon, waxed rhapsodic over and flat-out smothered Chianti Classico with hundred’s of thousands of words, reviews and tasting notes. It’s time for Godello to take a break and switch the focus on current events, what’s happening now and to hear about Chiantishire dirt from the mouths of the producers themselves. In 2020, the $64,000 dollar question is “why is this vintage different than any other?” As we fall back into impending autumn and perhaps another great global unknown, when pressed with four poignant questions, 17 Chianti Classico producers are all the youngest child at the table. They ruminate over their cultural past, viticultural present and perchance, express some postulations about the future.

Chianti Classico Collection 2020, Stazione Leopolda, Firenze

Passport to Chianti Classico: The Sequel

But first some exciting news. Fresh on the heels of the WineAlign Exchange’s successful inaugural partnership with the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and two sold-out international Passport case offers, this next collaboration stands to further cement our collective relationship with Tuscany’s famous wine region. Twelve more indispensable sangiovese in one mixed case. The territory’s sangiovese of exceptional quality is not limited to a mere 12 producers and so this next wave of Passport cases is poised to pack eight more prime examples in a mixed 12-pack. The WineAlign critic’s fortuitous summer of 2020 continued as they once again were given the opportunity to taste though many examples of wines stamped with the iconic symbol of the Gallo Nero. The June Chianti Classico boxes were the first of their kind for WineAlign and these new wines chosen are foremost a decision made collectively after the critics each sat down to taste many examples. They are indeed an extension of what new facets and nuances about Chianti Classico’s sangiovese the writers have learned over the past weeks.

This Passport to Chianti Classico mixed case celebrates the three levels of the region’s appellations. Passport to Chianti Classico: The Sequel explores the youthful freshness of sangiovese and the subtle differences found in the eight communes and their soils. It also brings together bolder, fuller-bodied, more structured and cellar worthy Chianti Classico.

Since 1716 Chianti Classico has preserved the unique qualities of its native land and soils and it is the Black Rooster that protects the wines from all imitations.

And so this latest article is an exposé of interpretation as I ask 17 iconic producers four timely questions regarding Chianti Classico’s appellative wines, how and why they do what they do and a request for their reflections on both the state of Italy’s battle with Covid-19 and projections for the 2020 harvest. Their answers further the confirmation of the territory’s ability to consistently achieve another level of quality. Sometimes sequels match or even exceed the original.

Panzano, Chianti Classico

I love the smaller vintages like 2014 and in my opinion both of them (with 2016) were able to reflect the Panzano characters

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi

Estate identity (terroir or better said, “genius loci”) is a very delicate concept, easy to ruin if you go by the book

Duccio Corsini, Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti

There’s no strict or clear rules to follow, because the climate affects each decision, and month after month you may need to chance or revise the decisions that were taken earlier

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, Rocca di Montegrossi

Sixteen producers, four questions

What recent vintage would you say marked the turning point for your winemaking, to bring your wines into a place and style that speaks of your particular vineyards, their location and terroir in Chianti Classico? What or why is the reason?

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi, Panzano-Greve: “It is always a work in progress, every vintage is a challenge and my efforts, like everyone in the Chianti Classico region, are concentrated in trying to improve as much as possible the quality. Quality that means more and more terroir expression and identity. The recent vintage that excited me much was 2016 because almost perfect but I love also the smaller vintages like 2014 and in my opinion both of them were able to reflect the Panzano characters.”

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio-Barberino Tavarnelle: “I can say that at Monsanto since the beginning we have always tried to respect the terroir and the vintage characteristics in all our wines. In the almost 60 years of our history there have been several changes in the winemaking processes and also the viticultural ones but I can say that they have always been marginal towards the imperative dictated that all our wines needs and needed to show the peculiarities of our piece of land together with the respect of the indigenous varietals. We have never changed the blend of our Chianti Classico wines – even in the 90’s “Super Tuscans” period… when it was really difficult to sell sangiovese wines.”

Duccio Corsini, Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa: “As you know when I started managing Villa Le Corti I had no viticultural background or specific family tradition, even though my family has owned Le Corti since 1363. So I would set the first pin in 1997 after five years of observing and learning. What I understood was the wines needed not only to be good because there was a good amount of good wine in Chianti Classico; they needed to be different in the sense of unique. So I abandoned the market trend, “the Parker style” and started searching for a Ville Le Corti natural style and identity in wine. I introduced a punchdown system and open vats vinification. I also understood that estate identity (terroir or better said, “genius loci”) is a very delicate concept, easy to ruin if you go by the book so there comes the second pin date 2005. This is the year I introduced after five years of experimentation, our unique selection of yeasts. Expensive but very important to emphasize terroir. 2010 was the vintage when I discovered the extensive use of cement vats to age Le Corti vintage (Annata). This is also the year I decided to reduce dramatically the use of new barriques and introduced 500 and 700L barrels for Don Tommaso Gran Selezione. 2014 like all hard years allowed me to understand how important is the quality of the fruit and how much added value you get in wine when you preserve the berry and you don’t crush it before putting it in the fermentation tank. That is the year when I changed the de-stemming machine, (instead) introducing a selecting machine. But the major change came in 2015 with my son Flippo starting the Fico Wine project. Perfection and integrity of fruit produced in my opinion is the most transparent representation of our terroir. In addition of no added sulfites and no filtration. Fermentation happened in barrels and ageing in the same barrels. In 2019 the main fermentation cellar was equipped with conveyor belts that brought the berry to the vats without ruining the skin; fermentation did the rest in a very natural timing and no hurry.”

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, Rocca di Montegrossi, Monti-Gaiole: “I can’t say that a particular vintage has marked the turning point for me as a winemaker. I believe that each vintage, year after year has added a new chapter to the winemaking history, giving me a deeper understanding on the choices to make in the vineyards. Sadly, there’s no strict or clear rules to follow, because the climate affects each decision, and month after month you may need to chance or revise the decisions that were taken earlier. But, after more than 25 vintages I feel I now have some understanding of viticulture. Additionally, since 2015 I also have two consulting agronomists that help me to make the best decisions.”

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole: “I started managing Badia a C in 1985 and I always tried to allow the wines to express the place so I have a hard time finding a turning point because I always maintained the course. However in the last few decades the challenge has been adapting to the dramatic variations in climate. From this point of view a turning point was 2011, one of the hottest and driest vintages (until then… we break records frequently nowadays). In 2011 we had a record sized crop and one the most outstanding vintages and realized that in today’s climate it actually helps to have a larger crop that will delay maturation a bit.”

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina in Chianti: “I would say that vintage 2010 was the result of our company’s major investments, renovation of the vineyards and of the cellars, as well as the ageing procedures and containers, which began at the end of the 1990s with the aim of obtaining excellent grapes. That one was also the year in which Lorenzo Landi started his consulting activity with our winemaking team and the first vintage of the Gran Selezione Sergio Zingarelli. This I would say was really the harvest and the year of the turning point!”

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia, Montefioralle-Greve: “I think 2014 was a recent vintage that really set a watershed for the whole appellation as it showed to the wine world that in Chianti Classico even in small vintages producers were able to make not only delicious wine but age worthy ones. If you think of the last rainy vintage in Chianti Classico which was 2002, I have to admit that it was a worse harvest than 2014, and you look at which important wines each winery decided to make that year and you compare it with the 2014 winemaking decisions, it feels like a century has gone by not just a little over a decade. I think that winemakers in Chianti Classico now have the ability, like Roberto Conterno had in 2002 when he made Monfortino, to interpret every single vintage without distorting what nature bestows to them.”

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace, Panzano-Greve: “Vintage 2016 is the turning point in the cellar, by taking up the Grand Selection and trying to bring freshness, cleanliness and fruit – all characteristics for making a wine that I like.”

With Federica Mascheroni

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia, Radda: “I think it’s not a vintage but luckily it is a team :-). I have the same team In the vineyards and the cellars, working for Volpaia since a long time. The experience collected in these years and in the different vintages help us to make the right choices; but at the same the particular microclimate of Volpaia, terroir, exposition and soil are making the difference. As you know, we are over 600meters above sea level in the Radda district where we have a nice quantity of surface cover by forest and this changes very much the clime of the area and makes hot summers much “fresher.”

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, Bindi Sergardi, Castelnuovo Berardenga: “2016. It is a great vintage for Tuscany, for Chianti Classico generally speaking; it is a “must have in my cellar vintage”. 2016 allowed our Chianti Classico Pyramid to express itself at its best. The season was perfect and our vineyards had the possibility of expressing their personality, style and authenticity without having to compromise with frost, drought, excessive heat etc. The vineyards of Tenuta Mocenni, in the Vagliagli area, face south, are at 1600 feet (500 meters) and are surrounded by woods; they need time to reach maturation. The weather of 2016 allowed us to harvest after the first week of October reaching the peak of maturation and quality of their terroir.”

Francesco Ricasoli, Ricasoli 1141 – Barone Ricasoli, Gaiole: “I would say that there have been several “turning points” because the wish is always improve and getting “ahead” with experience and learning from mistakes. If I have to mention a vintage I would say 2015 or when we decided to release this vintage as the first one of our single vineyard pure sangiovese, Colledilà, Roncicone and CeniPrimo. These three wines are the result of many years of researches in trying to find the different “expression” of sangiovese planted on different soils (limestone, marine deposit and fluvial terraces). This work has been done in a very meticulous way, year after year, without being impatient or finding the shortest cut to prove something. It gave us the satisfaction of something done properly and the work is still ongoing.”

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri, Lamole-Greve: “The vintage is 2015: This has been generally a warm vintage, which at the highest elevation of Lamole is the best. In this year we had the chance to produce all our range, even Gran Selezione I Fabbri (100 per cent sangiovese) and Il Doccio (100 per cent merlot) that we produce in rare vintages and that are able to show the best of our quality. In 2015 every variety we cultivated in all the vineyards showed an incredible quality which allowed us to vinify them separately and bottle them with different labels. Each, in my opinion, was able to show its unique terroir: Acidity and freshness for Lamole (100 per cent sangiovese); acidity and velvet for Olinto (sangiovese/merlot); incredible and surprising minerality for Lamole origin (100 per cent sangiovese) and Il Doccio (100 per cent merlot); Terra di Lamole: structure in unison with acidity (sangiovese/canaiolo); I Fabbri Riserva:Elegance and depth, best selection (sangiovese/canaiolo); I Fabbri Gran Selezione – embroidery of authentic finesse.”

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali and Guido Vitali, Le Fonti in Panzano

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti, Panzano-Greve: “Starting with 2006 and 2007 for us – first top years in our making without my dad. Perfect vineyard conditions, great growing conditions & weather. Then later on with the constant weather changes and ever hotter summer 2015 and 2016 taught us a lot about managing the dry heat better, leaving the “green harvest” for much later in the season to even out the sugars and not over burden the single grape bunches. So many seasonal works had to be adapted due to the extreme weather conditions.”

Michael Schmelzer, Monte Bernardi, Panzano: “I can’t say there was a recent vintage that marked a turning point in my style per se, as our philosophy has been pretty much the same since the beginning. Evolving with experience but always with the same goals and philosophy. That being said, the 2005 vintage was the most important vintage experience of my career beacuse it shaped the way I think as grower and as a winemaker. It was my third vintage at Monte Bernardi and it was a difficult one. It rained five out of seven days for weeks on end as we approached harvest. I was practicing organic farming from day one at our farm but not with a whole lot of experience. This finish to season was truly challenging my notions of whether we could farm organically. Every time a new storm approached at night I’d look out the window, worried about how much rain was on its way with this new storm. Would it be too much for our berries to handle? Would the berries split or would grey mold start and ruin our whole crop before it had a chance to fully ripen, before we had a chance to harvest? It was so stressful. In the end we did have mold, a significant percentage, but we hand sorted every bunch and made our wines. The resulting crop was smaller, however the wines ended up being a wonderful reflection of a difficult vintage. I came away from that experience with more confidence in organic farming because neighbouring Panzano farms who did not farm organically lost a lot more crop to mold than we did and we were able to keep our fruit on the vine longer which gave us a better quality wine. We fermented that harvest with native yeasts, like the previous years, even though with so much mold I had my doubts there too, doubts seeded from my university degree in enology. I am so glad I didn’t succumb, as I would have convinced myself it wasn’t possible to ferment with native yeasts in such a difficult year. I have never had another doubt about farming organically or fermenting with native yeasts after that early challenging vintage at Monte Bernardi. It was the most formative experience and has influenced how I think about everything we do both in the fields and in the winery.”

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti, Radda: “It is a progression/combination of experiences and of constantly changing – and challenging – vintages, that made us and our wines what they are, more than a specific point in the recent history of Val delle Corti. There are nevertheless three ‘turning points’ along it that may well represent this evolution. In 1999 my father Giorgio died quite unexpectedly and the sky – and Val delle Corti – fell on my head. No idea how to run a winery nor how to make a great wine. I just continued what I thought my father would do and added a lot of intuition of my own. But I was immensely scared. Later on I could realize that the millenium switch had exactly corresponded with the true beginning of a steady climate change. To the advantage of Radda and Val delle Corti. 2005 was the “2TP,” a difficult, rather hot but then dominantly cool year. The wine was for the first three years after picking quite undrinkable, hard, acidic, really grumpy. Desperate. And then sudden epiphany : A subtleness, an elegance, an unexpected finesse. Val delle Corti could bring out fine but complex, delicate wines. And especially on cooler, difficult, Bourgogne-reminding vintages. The proof of this came then in 2014, a cold, dark, humid, mould-haunted, devilly difficult year. We lost about 40 per cent of the crop. But what was left gave us some of the most delicate and moving wines we have ever produced. Indeed Val delle Corti identity is to be searched in the vertical dimension, must express the Radda-sangiovese straightness, vertical intensity and ‘droiture’. This is the mission we are committed to.”

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena, Barberino-Tavarnelle: “Michael, very difficult to give short answers to your questions, building a wine estate after the collapse of sharecropping in the late sixties has been a lifetime project where decisions taken many years ago have determined what we are today. Living on a vineyard I had to understand what the difference between animals (i.e. humans) and plants: we react and make quick decisions, changing our lives for the best (or worse…), plants (vines) cannot move and tend to adapt themselves to ever changing conditions. I think a successful vintner has to understand the needs of his vines and help them in the effort of adapting. As a result, no quick events, no life changing revelations but a vision and lots of small decision tending to make the vision become real…What Isole e Olena is now, is the result of a path I briefly resume here: 1977: In my second vintage I started to tag all sangiovese vines showing above average quality. I bought the first small new oak barrels and I started to use less white grapes in the Chianti blend. 1980: First vintage of Cepparello, pure sangiovese issued from the tagged vines (= massal selection).1982: A huge hail storm in May ended in a very limited but really excellent quality: Mother Nature was showing me that we were producing too high yields. 1986: After the Italian wines “methanol scandal”, a five days meeting with a group of young new vintners discussing how to overcome the crisis and invest in territorial vines, this was really a mind opening experience. 1987: Planted my first new vineyard, higher density of plantation, an in depth study of the soils of the estate (what today is called “zoning”). Rootstock were field grafted with all the best vines tagged in the ten years period. This has really been the foundation vineyard of Isole e Olena of the future. 1990s: Micro-vinifications of single vines grapes in order to select the best individuals among the previously tagged vines. 2001:Fiirst new vineyard planted entirely with our own selections. 2011: The research on local strains of yeasts and the importance of social insects in preserving them from year to year: defining how the origin is a much deeper concept involving all the life around our vineyard. 2010/2020: Working on canaiolo the same path of research done with sangiovese, more and more convinced how important canaiolo is to give the real Chianti Classico expression.”

Manfred Ing, Querciabella, Greve: “Since joining Querciabella in 2010, the turning point for me was around the 2015 and 2016 vintages. Thanks to our hard work with our plant based biodynamics, I feel we reached a great understanding of the minute details of our vineyard sites and consequently we started to truly express their uniqueness. This particularly applies to our Sangiovese which we grow in the 3 different sub zones in the three communes. In the cantina, with the same meticulous attention to details we fine-tuned our winemaking to really bring to life these unique characteristics in our wines. For the first time in 2016 our blend of 60+ single vineyard micro-fermentions from Greve, Radda and Gaiole were aged predominately in larger oak vessels (500L and 3000L) as opposed to smaller barrels (225L). These finer details, such as this gradual transition of the oak vessels sizes, are all just some of the small steps we continually take to optimise our expression of Sangiovese moving forward.”

The tendency of over-extracting during the maceration process and the fixation on the amount of polyphenols in the wine, the more the better, were as we say in Italy, “peccati di gioventù.”

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia

Rushing belongs to humans and not to nature, always respect conditions and the needs of nature, never force time and wait patiently

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri

I’ve made a lot of mistakes – I’ve been in wine for 30 years now, but what I remember was bottling a white wine that’s not ready yet, very good to drink but ugly to look at

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace

Quality could be defined in different ways. In my way complexity with balance became the absolute priority, well above power

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi introduces the Mocceni Estate

What mistakes have you made and how have you learned from them so that you can make better wines and the wines you need to make form your property?

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, Bindi Sergardi: “We have learned to trust the vine, the specific vineyard, more than anything else. Years ago, when we did not produce cru wines, if the wine form a very good vineyard did not taste as we expected, we would blend it. Through time we have learned to believe in the vineyard and even if it may be disappointing in a specific moment, it will eventually show its personality. It is a matter of time. Of course every vintage is different but the essence does not change. We have learned to trust sangiovese 100 per cent; Mocenni has a soil and a microclimate that produces outstanding sangiovese, the essence of the Chianti Classico tradition. We have learned not to generalize. Attention to details can make a huge difference – giving specific attention to each vineyard; they need to be treated differently even if a few meters apart.”

Francesco Ricasoli, Ricasoli 1141 – Barone Ricasoli: “The market is always asking for “news” and the pressure is always on our neck for “new” things to bring on the market but when you learn to take the time you need to reach your goals you feel better and your products are of much higher quality and integrity.”

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri: “Mistakes? Well, I have always made them in every aspect of my life! Yet, I’m an optimist and I’m always ready to accept and to learn from them…! The major mistakes I have done are related to timing. Each time I tried to force nature and its course because I was in a hurry, it always created problems for me and I needed to wait double the initial time to resolve it! In particular I have one memory. Once I had to bottle for one of my customers who was in a hurry but conditions were not right. It was a cold winter, early January, our basic cellar has no heating system, as a consequence the temperature was too cold! When the wine left its warm concrete tank the thermic shock was so important that the wine needed double the normal amount of time to refine before it could reach its perfect balance! Rushing belongs to humans and not to nature, always respect conditions and the needs of nature, never force time and wait patiently. In Lamole, more than in other areas, temperature is an important factor, especially if cold! ( this for sure was a simple mistake. At the time I was a beginner wine producer and was afraid to loose an important order. However, what an important lesson for was it for me!)

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti: “Quite a few and one constantly learns. Adapting to making a 100 per cent sangiovese compared to always having our five to 10 per cent merlot and cabernet added changed the oak ageing quite a bit. Wine making is constantly evolving, better methods, less intervention.”

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti: “I make mistakes every day. Luckily they haven’t been too relevant – until now … In 2014 I had a stainless steel vat which was refusing to start fermenting. I introduced a long infrared heating lamp from above, wanting to pierce the one-meter thick skin layer in order to reach the liquid most underneath. But the skins where so thick and solid, that the lamp didn’t make it through and turned up again, unseen in the skins. I lit the lamp and went out or dinner with my wife. When we came back some 3 hours later, we so already by parking the car thick smoke coming slowly out of the outdoor part of the cellar. The vat was slowly burning, the skins, dried out by the overheating of the big lamp, caramelized and finally took fire. I had invented a new way to give premium wine a ‘toast’ scent without investing fortunes in useless and redundant new french barriques …Only old wood should come in touch with our sangiovese.”

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena: “Most times, even mistakes become clear time after they have been made when you realize the vines have taken a different direction from the one you wanted…When my genetical work started to show huge improvements, I got very excited with the the results and planted some vineyard with very limited genetical richness. The consequence: The wines from those vineyards showed high quality but lack of complexity. The lesson: Quality could be defined in different ways. In my way complexity with balance became the absolute priority, well above power and in the more recent vineyards I planted good material but as diverse and rich as possible.”

Manfred Ing, Querciabella: “Probably underestimating our vines ability to handle the vintage extremities. In the last decade that I have been here in the valley, I have witnessed diverse climate changes and challenges that Mother Nature has thrown at us, forcing us to pay even more attention in the vineyards. Thanks to our plant based approach to biodynamics, we have become more knowledgeable and responsive. For example, the lessons we learned by handing the warmth of the ’11 and ’12 vintages, which produced some spectacular wines, allowed us to make even better wines in ’15 and ’17 which had similar conditions. The cooler ’14 vintage with its challenges resulted in us deciding not to release our Camartina, Palafreno and Turpino. But out of it came our Chianti Classico and Riserva which were produced in smaller quantities but still of the highest quality as expected at Querciabella.”

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi: “Mistakes are useful to improve and to learn that working hard is a must. When I was young sometimes in the winemaking I was looking more for extreme limits than harmony and balance but getting older with maturity I realized that it was a mistake.”

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto: “At the end of the 90s and beginning in 2000 we started to use barriques on Il Poggio. I remember in particular the vintage 2001 when we decided to age the wine entirely in new oak barriques. The wine was overpowered by the oak. It took almost 10 years to rebalance the oak. Now it is a beautiful wine, the wine won over the oak, but for sure was a winemaking mistake that made us learn how careful we need to be in picking the right type of oak for sangiovese. It also taught to us that sangiovese needs its time, we can not force it, we need to wait and the bottle aging is so important. This is way we do not release Il Poggio before five years from the harvest, with a minimum of two years in bottle.”

Duccio Corsini, Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti: “I cannot count the mistakes made in these 28 years. I am considered a hands on education program. Only curious people make mistakes and learn from them.”

Marco Firidolfi-Ricasoli, Rocca di Montegrossi

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, Rocca di Montegrossi: “To be wrong and admit your own errors is a big help to improvement. Certainly, in agriculture the climate/weather has a big influence on the final results, so if it difficult to rate this single variable. You can make predictions, but at the end some choices based on the weather trend are all very similar to “small bets.” What I’ve learned in all those past years is trying to listen to the people and professionals that are your consultants but at the end taking the final decision for yourself. But in the end, those who come with the smallest mistakes have the best results! I don’t think I’ve done any big or unfixable mistakes in my winemaking history. But I can recall the last one, last year, when I have left a little too much grape on few vineyards. The fortunate thing is that the weather in September was so favourable that nonetheless the grapes managed to ripen very well and given an excellent result. I still need to get the hang of the guyot, which is more productive than the cordone. This year, I have certainly learnt a lesson …”

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono: “In 1997 when we moved production to the new winery we also started using commercial yeast and for a few vintages we had serious problems of reductions, stuck fermentations and Brettanomyces. Going back to biodiverse fermentations with a starter of grapes from our vineyards turned out to be all that was needed to solve these problems. Also, with Sangiovese the wines fermented with their own yeast tend to be more complex.”

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe: “In 1980 my father planted many hectares of vineyards, with the aim of obtaining quality grapes, but with an obsolete technique and agricultural vision. With the new vinicultural knowledge and from the observation of our vineyards we decided to renew most of those vineyards with the new goal of “excellence” so more plants per hectare, extremely careful attention and parcel control of the individual vineyards to let every single soil express at its best. Actually I do not feel like to say that we made mistakes, surely we were and are in continuous growth and every day we work hard to be better than the day before using all the experience collected in these almost 50 years of Rocca delle Macìe.”

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia: “The mistakes I have made are the typical mistakes of youth when you are trying hard to leave your own imprint in your management and make things in the different way than before. Mind you some of the innovations, like the organic farming or preserving the estate genome by planting all the different varietals found in the old share cropping vine lanes, were good decisions. Others like the tendency of over-extracting during the maceration process and the fixation on the amount of polyphenols in the wine, the more the better, were as we say in Italy, “peccati di gioventù.” In time you come to understand that in order for a wine to be great, and I am quoting Paul Trimbach here, it needs only three main features; balance, balance, balance.”

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace: “I’ve made a lot of mistakes – I’ve been in wine for 30 years now, but what I remember was bottling a white wine that’s not ready yet, very good to drink but ugly to look at.”

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia: “Every day we have to work with nature and every day we can try to predict the future, but each moment it is the nature, clime, etc. that make the change and the more we grow the more we have to listen to them. This is one of the reasons why I think it is important to be organic, fill the nature and follow it instead of “acting and trying to contrast them.”

I do believe that Gran Selezione must be a single vineyard

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto

It is again the nature that make the first difference. The second important moment is the work in the cellar where we wish to find in our wines the terroir and the vintage

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia

The quality and style of the wine, at the end, is more important than the classification!

Francesco Ricasoli, Ricasoli 1141 – Barone Ricasoli

So you see Michele, we have been producing a ‘Gran Selezione’ already for 45 years now…”

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti

The endless complexities that come from the different villages is a very unique situation for us in the Chianti Classico

Manfred Ing, Querciabella

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono

What defines your reasoning in how you produce Riserva and other then aging time, what truly differentiates it from your Annata?

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono: “We make Riserva selecting each year the best vineyards or part of vineyards for that vintage. We do a partial early harvest in those vineyards and pick the grapes for Riserva last, usually in early October at the end of harvest. The next step is after a first year of aging when we do the final selection (…la vera grande selezione ) of the lots that will be part of the blend. Usually at that point we finalize the Annata blend and reincorporate some of the Riserva lots in it. Compared to the Annata the Riserva has more stamina, more body, denser tannins. With Annata we want a fresher expression, with Riserva a much deeper one.”

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe: “Obviously our Gran Selezione wines refine more in wood than the Riservas, but the important thing is that for us, in addition to being produced with proprietary grapes, they are also derived from selections of individual vineyards. Our Riserva black label is the result of all our terroirs as a selection of the best grapes from our vineyards as well as the Chianti Classico Annata, but obviously we use grapes from younger vineyards, with the aim of obtaining fresher wines with great fruit, but also more adaptable to every palate and meal.”

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia: “The three wines have different purposes in my opinion. When we make the blending for the Annata the main feature we think the wine should have is “serbevolezza,” which is a similar concept to one expressed by the French word “digestible,” often used by Eric Asimov to describe wines which are easy to drink without being simple. A Chianti Classico Annata should be first and foremost “serbevole,” allowing the wine to be paired with many different dishes without smothering them. It’s like those great Hollywood actors who were often used in supporting roles because they could play different parts in such an amazing way and without overshadowing the main star of the movie. I have a soft spot for these wines and they are probably the ones I drink most. When you make the blending for the Riserva instead your are trying to make a wine that will not be ready to drink right away but which will disclose its qualities slowly over time. It will not have the same versatility of the Annata therefore it should be paired with more structured dishes which one does not usually eat everyday. If I can make a whisky comparison our Riserva is our best “blended,” even if it is made nine times out of 10 with only Sangiovese from a selection of grapes coming from multiple vineyards. If the Riserva is the winery’s best “blended” then our Gran Selezione are the winery’s Single Malts. In this case it’s not the winemaker showing his blending skills by mixing the different vineyards together but the single vineyard expressing herself in a more natural and distinctive way. The only evaluation the winemaker needs to make before bottling is if the vineyard has expressed her character distinctively enough in that specific vintage in order to be allowed to be bottled by herself. Certain single vineyards may have a character which reminds more of the Annata, others more of the Riserva, but the important thing for me is that they should be distinctive and recognizable throughout the different vintages.”

With Iacopo Morganti of Il Molino di Grace at Castellana, Montefioralle

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace: “La Riserva is always an important historical wine even if when the Grand Selection arrived I would have liked not to do it again. Then I changed my idea also because the market always required that type. For me the Riserva must have the characteristics of the vintage but with a different body, greater concentration and elegance.”

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia: “One of the first differences starts since the beginning, during the picking of the grapes. The Riserva and the Annata come from the same vineyards but for the Riserva we select the best grapes. It is again the nature that make the first difference. The second important moment is the work in the cellar where we wish to find in our wines the terroir and the vintage.”

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, Bindi Sergardi: “Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico come from two different vineyards and although both are 100 per cent Sangiovese, they reflect two different concepts and styles of wine. The soils, the specific vineyards give birth to wines with specific taste and characteristics that correspond to what we have grown to believe a Riserva and a Chianti Classico are. Calidonia, our Riserva coming from the Vineyard Signora Chiara, is a tremendously elegant wine, you can lose yourself in the glass finding the different nuances that change continuously. It is a wine that is more apt to age, a wine that you can enjoy through its evolution with continuous surprises. The Riserva is intelligent, experienced and knowledgeable. You have to discover her sip after sip. La Ghirlanda, Chianti Classico Annata, is a bit easier to understand, more fruit forward, you can drink it young and yet you can keep it for some years in your cellar and enjoy its elegant evolution. La Ghirlanda is like a book that you read to relax, it gives you the joy to travel with your imagination through the Chianti Classico region; its sunny climate, its hills, its landscape.”

Francesco Ricasoli, Ricasoli 1141 – Barone Ricasoli: “I have been among those producers of Chianti Classico favouring for the introduction of Gran Selezione because Riserva was not representing anymore the peak of excellence in our appellation. Chianti Classico has been going through a “revolution” in the last 25 years or more, re-inventing itself, producing among the most interesting and elegant sangiovese around the world. Having said the above you know that our grand vin Castello di Brolio is now Gran Selezione, but until 2009 it was just labelled Chianti Classico (Not Riserva) although from a production and quality point of view nothing has changed from before or after 2010 in the way we produce it. The quality and style of the wine, at the end, is more important than the classification!”

Deep into Greve there is Lamole ~ Tasting at Casole with Susanna Grassi and 17 years of @ifabbriclassico ~ what a great night in Chianti Classico

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri: “At I Fabbri, Riserva is produced using grapes cultivated in specific vineyards, our old vines that are located in lower altitude (450- 550m). In those vineyards (Pianaccio, Pian del Doccio, Terrazze), the first day of harvest is dedicated to the harvest of the best grapes which will be vinified separately to be bottled as Riserva. A longer ageing in French oak tonneaux of 12 months completes the process. Our recipe? Specific vineyards, selected grapes and longer ageing. On the other hand, our Chianti Classico Annata from the same vineyards is produced with the rest of the grapes and the wine has a different ageing: French oak tonneaux for 50 per cent of the wine and traditional concrete tanks for the other 50. Other Chianti Classico (Lamole and Olinto) are produced with different vines, the one located in highest elevations (630-680m) and the wine produced is aged just in traditional concrete tanks.”

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti: “Each vineyard parcel is picked on its own and fermented on its own. We have a lot of small fermentation vats to enable these selections. Generally we already have an idea before harvest which parcels will make it for Riserva or Annata or Gran Selezione, but only after the fermentation has finished do we confirm or change it. So for Riserva only the best selections of sangiovese together with a tiny bit of merlot and cabernet sauvignon are added. The Riserva then stays 24 months in barrels, about 20 per cent new oak, mostly French but usually also one 500 litre Hungarian oak tonneaux, before being bottled and then resting in bottle for another nine to 12 months.”

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti: “Easy answer: Single vineyard. Ever since my father’s time the higher located, wood-surrounded vineyard north of the house is the very best cru in Val delle in Corti. The Riserva selection has always come from there: 100 per cent sangiovese old clones, separately picked, fermented and aged in very old barriques and tonneaux. If we are not satisfied with the result, this selection may be downgraded back to the Chianti Classico Annata. So you see Michele, we have been producing a ‘Gran Selezione’ already for 45 years now…”

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena: “I do not produce an official “Riserva,” not since the mid 80s, when Cepparello got well established on the market, but I think we could say that in my mind sangiovese in Chianti Classico has a great flexibility expressed in two different styles, both great. It delivers wines which are a joy as medium bodied, fresh and enjoyable in their youth, with lively acidity, easy to match with an ample array of food, even drunk slightly cool: A perfect “table wine” to be enjoyed on the table with friends, the Italian way. On the other side, wines with much more structure, which have the potential to age for a long time and gain complexity. It depends on the vineyards, the vintage, the Winemaker but both expression are as noble and great, I refuse the concept of first and second wine but rather like the idea of two different expressions. With the recent introduction of Gran Selezione I was hoping to see a home back in the Appellation for many so called “super Tuscan” whose compositions could now fit in the new appellation rules, wines where small additions of other varietals could tame sangiovese when it becomes too angular… But this is a different story and it seems it is not going to happen…”

Manfred Ing, Querciabella: “Starting in 2010 we introduced a new vineyard by vineyard, site by site approach to picking the grapes, micro-fermentation in 3 and 5 ton oak and cement tanks of each site, followed by separate ageing in oak barrels and tonneaux of the various lots right up until blending. What distinguishes the Riserva from the Annata is that the grape picking decisions and selections of the parcels of fruit for the Riserva not only depend on the vineyard/village as a whole, but can sometimes be the first 3 rows of vines or up until the 5th pole in the vineyard. With this more specific approach and thanks to the symbiosis of the vineyard and winemaking team, we decided to release a 100% Sangiovese Riserva from a small selection of the 2011 vintage. A special moment for us considering we stopped releasing our Riserva back in 1999. The intensity of our Riserva I think is down to a combination of parcels for fruit from the 3 different sub zones where we grow our Sangiovese. The endless complexities that come from the different villages is a very unique situation for us in the Chianti Classico where producers generally make wines from one village or hillside where their winery is situated. The ageing of the Riserva is similar to the Annata in the sense that they both age for 14-16 months in oak with just the new oak percentage being slightly higher for the Riserva (always less than 20%).”

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi: “I don’t produce any Riserva but only Fontodi CC and Vigna del Sorbo CC Gran Selezione. The main difference is that VdS is a single vineyard, one of the most beautiful of Fontodi estate with very old vines capable to make a superior quality with more finesse and depth every year.”

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto: “Since 20 years we have vinified all our Chianti Classico parcels separately. This method (more than 50 parcels) allows us to know exactly what is going on in each single parcels vintage after vintage. Then we start to taste them blind (so not to be influenced by knowing the origin) and after several tastings we define which parcel is going into Annata and which one into Riserva. Gran Selezione is always produced in the single vineyard Il Poggio. I do believe that GS must be a single vineyard.”

Duccio Corsini, Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti: “Today i don’t think that Riserva is qualifying; Gran Selezione is the great challenge for the future, At Le Corti we decide what is fit to age in bottle with added value at the end of vinification.

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, Rocca di Montegrossi: “I do not produce Riserva. I only produce Gran Selezione. Compared with the Chianti Classico Annata (that I like to call battleship), the Gran Selezione is a single-vineyard wine from partly 50 and partly 26 year-old plants. It comes from a very strict selection, with a two to three weeks maceration at the end of the alcoholic fermentation, which is carried out in conic shaped barrels. Our Gran Selezione has the contribution of a small percentage of pugnitello which gives its special touch to the final result.”

However Canada has held up very well and we are very proud of this, sign of the great branding work done in the past

Sergio Zingarelli – Rocca delle Macìe

Covid has confirmed our values and human relationships are fundamental in our ethos

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, Bindi Sergardi

The virus, crossing fingers, is under control and sales are going back to pre-Covid

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi

The situation could become very critical for many producers

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono

Vintage 2020 has been a challenge in part, many more beasts around. With the pandemic and no traffic on the main roads for nearly three months I ended up having three mamas with more than 20 little ones

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia

How are things going in Chianti Classico, both from the perspective of the vintage and from the pandemic?

Sebastiano Capponi, Villa Calcinaia: “The 2020 vintage is looking good but the grape quantities will be less in Chianti Classico than last year. It will not be an early harvest, the grapes are slowly going through veraison as we speak, but if the weather holds it will be another year like 2016 or 2010. About the pandemic things are tough especially for wineries, like mine, which dealt mainly or exclusively with the HO.RE.CA. sector but the Capponi have survived the black plague of 1348 and the plague of 1630 and I am sure that we will manage to recover from the COVID of 2020.”

Iacopo Morganti, Il Molino di Grace: “At the moment the vintage 2020 is good. We decided to reduce the quantity and make probably 40 per cent less like the turnover so far. In Chianti area we are probably one week in advance for the maturation but all can change in the last mount. For the pandemic we have to see what happens in September and October otherwise the problem became very big. Speriamo bene.”

Federica Mascheroni, Volpaia: “For the vintage I can give you a personal perspective. I didn’t call my winemaker who is finally taking some holiday after the difficult period we are living. The next weeks we will start with the picking of the grapes in Maremma. It looks a very nice vintage, with a nice rainfall during spring and now the good clime for the growing. In Maremma we are already planning the picking of the grapes but in Volpaia we still have in the front several weeks and you know better than me, everything is still possible. Anyhow for the moment I’m thinking it could be a good vintage, but I will talk more later. :-)”

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, Bindi Sergardi: “The 2020 vintage started off with challenges: we faced two frosts in March that luckily did not hit us too hard (approximately five per cent production loss). Up to now Summer has not been too hot and the vines did not suffer drought due to rainfalls during Spring. The vineyards are enjoying a big difference between day and night temperatures. Quality is looking good but as always we need to wait until we harvest in October. The pandemic has hit our territory. Chianti Classico is a wine that is distributed mainly through restaurants and hotels which have been closed for some time all over the world. In Chianti Classico we all suffered the absence of foreign wine lovers and tourists. At the same time Italians started travelling again in Italy and it is great to have people from other regions coming and ‘rediscovering’ Chianti Classico. Generally speaking we faced a reduction of turnover, but if we all have a positive attitude we can overcome the difficulties. It is crucial that we all concentrate on what can be done instead of complaining about what we have lost. Covid is a challenge and a source of deep reflection. As Bindi Sergardi we focused on people. People – our team: all of us attended online courses for professional growth, we made our team feel protected and aware that we are behind them and not planning to downsize them; – People – our partners: trying to help where and when possible, listening to their difficulties and thinking of different ways to stay close to the sales team; — People – our consumers: maintained the contact as much as possible, we have opened a Wine Club with a shop on-line in order to keep them close while in safety. Covid has confirmed our values and human relationships are fundamental in our ethos.”

When you take a drive with @francescoricasoli you stop to breathe in the air. Castle behind sold separately ~ #gaioleinchianti #baronericasoli

Francesco Ricasoli, Ricasoli 1141 – Barone Ricasoli: “We are close from harvest and right now (August 20th) we would need some healthy rainfall. This vintage could turn out such as a 2017 or also another excellent vintage (if it rains). COVID-19: Still too early to say but for the majority of quality wine producers it has been (and still is) a big problem because of the shut down of HORECA. For the lucky few that sell to supermarkets it has been a double digit growth. Let’s see what happens in autumn…”

Susanna Grassi, I Fabbri: “The vintage in Lamole seems very nice, however we have to wait until the grapes are in the cellar. We had a nice spring, good water in late spring and now there is an alternation of hot and rainy days. Finger crossed, we will see! Pandemic has affected the Chianti Classico wine and zone. The area is empty, no tourism, which is an important factor for our economy; sales have been affected due to the lockdown of restaurants, especially for small “niche” wineries that don’t have any access to the supermarkets. I personally think e-commerce can be a good opportunity…but…this is another skill to add!”

Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, Le Fonti: “Generally it is going ok-ish here. We continued working in the vineyards and cellars throughout the whole time and got lots of things done in the vineyard and olive groves due to the good weather and no outside distraction as visitors or wine fairs… since mid-July there has been quite a busy European and domestic tourism for wine tastings and tours. Vintage 2020 has been a challenge in part, many more beasts around. We normally have about three to four wild boars coming around all year around, with the pandemic and no traffic on the main roads for nearly three months I ended up having three mamas with more than 20 little ones (who are now not so little anymore and starting to eat). Adding to that a bit of mildew (oidium) which luckily we managed to control. If all goes well we should have quite a fine 2020 harvest by end of September. fingers crossed.”

Ladies and gentlemen may I introduce to you, Roberto Bianchi @valdellecorti

Roberto Bianchi, Val delle Corti: “Difficult situation. We have lost some 6 months of sales and we are all concerned about the risk of speculation on the wine price in hls. Cellars are still full and picking is approaching. Bottling wolves are already howling in the distance …We are lucky, ’cause we produce wines which get excellent while aging, so a longer bottle aging period can only be positive. Will all the small producers be able to resist or will they have to sell under price because they need cash ? This is the main question now, which the Consorzio has to manage now. The market will hopefully recover next year. Beside this, vintage 2020 is looking great: The big starting drought has been defeated just yesterday by long-lasting generous rain. The wished end-of-August weather break has not deceived us. Let us see and think positive.”

Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena: “2020 is not in yet, but it seems it is going to be a good vintage, regardless the fact that the climate has been challenging. Covid-19 is certainly charging a huge toll on the estates, sales are down and it will take time to recover. We are on the good side though as at least we have a product which in fact improves in quality if it stays a little longer in the cellars. It is for me very difficult to imagine the long term effect of this disaster, but I think I’m not alone. We will need patience, time and lot of fantasy…”

Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi: “Things are going much better. The virus, crossing fingers, is under control and sales are going back to pre-Covid. At the end of July sales of CC appellation is -10 per cent in comparison with 2019. Regarding the vintage, we have great expectations. The grapes are healthy and ripening well, one week in advance than last year. The vineyards benefit of the extra time that all the vintners dedicated them because the lack of wine fairs and promotional trips.”

Laura Bianchi, Castello di Monsanto: “The 2020 vintage started with a mild winter, the spring was mild in March, cooler in April but without frost problem in our area. May was beautiful and fresh, June with several days of rain which helped the vines. July has been warm but without extreme temperatures. First two weeks of August very hot (35-38°) …grapes look great … but for my superstitious attitude I am not adding anything else ’till all the grapes are in the cellar :-). The markets situation due to Covid : April and May have been really difficult months … most of the markets (with the exception of Northern Europe , like Denmark, Norway, Germany and Belgium ) slowed down dramatically. In June we started to see a reaction, also in Italy. July closed with the same income of last year and August started with a great increase in orders. Of course we are suffering in the on-premise business worldwide but most of our importers react to the situation addressing their sales to different channels. In Italy, where we lost 90 per cent of the on-premise business in April, May and until the beginning of June, we see in the last two months an encouraging recovery of restaurants business. Of course we all are praying that there will not be a second wave…”

Manfred Ing, Querciabella: “After a typical warm Tuscan summer, in the last week of August we received some welcome rain which is setting us up for a pretty special vintage after optimal spring conditions. I’m incredibly happy with our first few barrels of Chardonnay and Pinot bianco for Batar 2020 that are fermenting away… so fingers crossed for the rest of season. It’s the best we can hope for after what has been a challenging year for everyone with this pandemic. At Querciabella were are always concerned about the wellbeing of those around us and we took the whole situation very seriously. We implemented all measures suggested to contain the spreading of the virus, some of our colleagues were granted parental leave to look after their children and families, and we had to adopt different schedules and spilt shifts in the cellar to guarantee the basic operations. Of course, all trips and events have being cancelled or postponed until further notice, so we are starting to evaluate new strategies and diverse business opportunities. We are confident that we’ll come back with a strong proposition once the situation improves. Personally, I got to spend more time with my kids and wife which was quite special looking back on it.. And after all, if you had to be under lockdown, may as well be in one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world ;)”

With @principecorsini at Le Corti and the many varied shades of his sangiovese. The genesis of San Casciano, right here, as always, right now.

Duccio Corsini, Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti: “2020 vintage looks good; the colouring of the grapes started some 10 days ahead of normal (17th of July). All can still happen but I feel it will be a good year with some 20% less production due to a front in the beginning of April. The Covid ’19 is hitting very bad. Chianti Classico system showed clearly the week points; Mostly exported. Mostly sold to restaurants. Very long and expensive sales system where were most of the margin is left to middle people. At villa Le Corti we were already organized with a good shop online for consumers and a new b2b online platform for the Italian restaurant that reopened. That said we lost only 40% of sales.”

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, Rocca di Montegrossi: “In Chianti Classico region I can’t say, but for Rocca di Montegrossi things are going well. The first semester of sales have even registered a slight increase than in 2019. During the first three months of 2020 and in the month of June we have sold very well and this allowed us to make up for the -50 per cent of April and -33 per cent of May. So I can’t really complain! So far, the vintage is very promising, but anything can still happen. However, May, June and July had quite cool night average temperatures and moderately warm days, so this has kept the grape in perfect condition. Now it is very warm and we would need some rains … let’s hope to get some rain because a few vineyards are starting their suffering, and I suffer with them …”

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, Badia a Coltibuono: “The vintage is very promising, and conditions are ideal. The rest is very problematic. Even though Italy did a good job of controlling the pandemic the effects of the lockdown on restaurants and the reduced tourism are having a major impact on sales in Italy. Export markets are also affected by the pandemic again because the closure of restaurants. The situation could become very critical for many producers.”

Sergio Zingarelli, Rocca delle Macìe: “The 2020 vintage is anticipated in all phases, and we are not experiencing any phyto-sanitary issues. Certainly the production this year will not be huge, but for the moment there are all the conditions for a hot but very high quality harvest. As about Covid ,Italy is in great recovery since June, unfortunately there is not the same scenario in the US, one of our main markets. However Canada has held up very well and we are very proud of this, sign of the great branding work done in the past.”

Good to go!

godello

The Gallo Nero of Luiano

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

San Casciano’s nascent time in Chianti Classico

Dec12

Poggio Torselli

As per the recent wave of Chianti Classico producers creating regional associations because of their shared geographies and ideologies, so too has L’Associazione San Casciano Classico followed suit. Just about one year ago in the Fall of 2018 the producers of San Casciano Val di Pesa organized to promote and protect the wineries of the municipality. This past September there were 19 (of the 23) members of the association on hand to host 13 Canadian journalists and sommeliers for a San Casciano summit at the historical Villa Poggio Torselli.

Villa Poggio Torselli

The villa’s origins are recorded in the land registers as early as the beginning of the 15th century. It is approached by an awe-inspiring boulevard of cypresses and is one of the largest and most elegant residences in the area of the San Casciano Hills, near Florence. “Queen of all villas” as it is known dates back to 1427 bearing the name of Poggio Torselli. These noble family names are associated with the villa; Macchiavelli, Corsini, Strozzi, Antonori, Capponi and Orlandini, who owned the villa until 1722. Status is a draw for important figures, so visits were made by Pope Pius VII who stopped over on his way to Paris to crown Emperor Napoleon in 1804 and also Paul I, Emperor of Russia.

Poggio Torselli Seasons Garden

The gardens are astonishing and surely one of the Chianti Classico territory’s finest. Known as the “Seasons Garden” it was created in the 18th century, teeming with narcissus, tulips, hyacinths, dahlia, sage, clematis and giant Indian hibiscus. Most notable are the fritillaries, also known as “imperial crown” and the entire garden is surrounded by the golden crown of 120 secular lemon trees.

San Casciano the village is also one of eight sub-zones in Chianti Classico’s most northwesterly sector. The full name San Casciano in Val di Pesa tells us that its location is proximate to the valley of the Pesa river and it shares a border with two other communes, Barberino Tavarnelle to the south and Greve in Chianti to the east and southeast.

The sangiovese of San Casciano are made in the image of their makers; stoic, serious, at times austere, surely classic and noble. They speak with a succinct and old-school vernacular that lends great credence to the adage that sangiovese needs the bottle. The wines are unabashedly uncompromising in that they talk the talk of a sense of place that shares affinities only with each other and themselves. Their time in the sun has come, with help no doubt from a changing climate. That glaring condition was on full display the day we met and tasted because a deluge the likes there was never seen rained down and for many hours. When the tasting was complete the skies cleared and the sun shone on what was a symbolic calling to San Casciano’s nascent rebirth. The time for their distinctive sangiovese has surely come.

These are 21 of the wines tasted in September at Fattoria Poggiopiano and with the L’Associazione San Casciano Classico at Poggio Torselli.

Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2017 (606541, $19.95)

Chianti Classico from Peppolì, 90 per cent sangiovese with merlot and syrah. An enriching wine and enriched by the international grapes, juicier and more refined, if not also a very concentrated version of these wines. It’s mature and stylish to be sure. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Famous volumes

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2016

Presented by the estate’s Sales Manager Pamela Bernini. Estate grapes of 12-13 hectares grown on clay-calcareous soils. Eight are sangiovese, the other three being syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Baldéro is 100 per cent sangiovese with only a small portion raised in tonneaux. Rich, spirited and juicy stuff. Really fresh, effusive and expressive. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted September 2019

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Only the second vintage of organic, 100 per cent sangiovese and an indigenous ferment. There were a mere 1400 bottles produced from a seven hectare plot, planted in 1982 and 2004. New plantings are going in. From Maddalena (age 26) in cohorts with Matteo (age 24). Quite sharp, fresh and also tannic. A start-up with experience on the fly. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

A threefold experience of fennel, blood orange and pancetta. There are equal parts five per cent merlot and “other complimentary varieties.” The classic in every respect, dark cherry fruit, dusty, savoury and taut. Fresh, elegant as need be and utterly solid. Last tasted September 2019

Castello di Gabbiano’s Chianti Classico may repeat itself and act the obvious one, but once again in 2016 it is full and ripe, filled in at every turn, deep, dark and handsome. The ability to deal in pleasure is immense from gathered quality fruit and as always this Annata finds the quickest line for us to appreciate the unwavering sense of equilibrium. Simply put it is Gabbiano and winemaker Federico Cerelli who offer a quality guarantee at the most attractive price. Leaves no reason to doubt. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2018

Mainly sangiovese with canaiolo, colorino and pugnitello. An excessively savoury and forest brushy Classico with the fruit edging away from cherry and into plum. Peppery spice adds to the complexity of this grippy sangiovese. Juicy and sharp, totally in charge of all the fun and more. Reminds me of a slow ripened ’14 with more flesh and sapidity. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Niccolò Bernabei and this project that began in 1995. Organic since 2001 in the most northern spot of San Casciano. Fifty per cent comes from a newer property in the south, for lightness of being and balance. Clay with stones for one of the darker and developed sangiovese in the commune. Toffee and coffee juxtaposed against freshness and really elevated acidity. Also a product of long fermentation with plenty of extraction, tannin and structure. And it needs it desperately. Not green in any means but certainly pressed and expressed. Grows in stature and also widens into greater breadth with air and time. Last tasted September 2019

Nicely funky volatile, a rich cherry liqueur, full of spice both out of the vineyard and from the barrel. There is this chewiness that is also marked by a mouthful of spice, candied flowers and calcareous chalkiness from big variegated stones in the soil. Crunchy Annata out of San Casciano in Val di Pesa. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted February 2019

La Sala Chianti Classico DOCG 2015

A combination of two estate vineyards and it shows in the depth of layering, rich, chocolaty and silky smooth. Dark berry fruit, a bit pressed and good high level acidity. Last tasted September 2019

La Sala’s Annata 2015 is a bambino, a San Casciano in Val di Pesa sangiovese with 10 per cent merlot to speak for sites at 300m, seemingly more instructed by Galestro from out of the Argilla Rossa in 2015. It was raised in grande (45 hL) botti and has now only been in bottle for five months. It’s tart and firm, strong with doppio shots of espresso and very structured for the vintage. Tells a tale about the sort of sangiovese that comes from San Casciano. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017 ($24.50)

This is San Casciano and the wines are linked by being characterized with soils prevalent in the Greve River Valley, in connection with Antinori’s Peppoli, of river stones and Alberese, into which roots can dive deep in search of water, trace elements and minerals. “A representation of a season for our place in Chianti Classico,” explains Alessandro Palombo. Classic Luiano florality and botanical lift in spite of ‘17s challenge. A tisane for sure, of violet and lavender but also spices. Rounded out by cabernet sauvignon and merlot planted at 330m on less rocky soils. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted September 2019

Antica Fattoria Machiavelli Solatio Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Located in Sant’Andrea in Percussina, neighbours of Poggio Torselli and the house in exile where Niccola Macchiavelli lived. From 27 hectares of vineyards, stony and porous soils. Really the first reductive Annata in this San Casciano lot, protected, protractive and taut. Called Solatio because it’s a sunny place in an otherwise cooler area of the greater territory. Ripe sangiovese with 20 per cent merlot, tannic and just a touch green. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

San Casciano Hills

Famiglia Nunzi Conti Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Winemaker Gianpaolo Chiettini and what he considers some of the bigger sangiovese of Chianti Classico. Estate carries 40 hectares in the southern San Casciano area of Mercatale where calcari-Alberese soils are there to bring grip and structure. Also some vineyard with clay to mitigate and keep things swimming richly along. Much of the harvest was tossed away and sold for bulk. True selection was performed and with the stringent work through several picks. Thirty per cent saw older barrels in what is clearly a wine of soil and place. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Orsumella Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($23.95)

Presented by Sales Manager Andrea Fabbri from a San Casciano farm located on the road from Bargino (near Antinori) proximate to Monte Ridolfi at 300m. Takes the name from the small river. The Annata is 100 per cent sangiovese eased through a short maceration and conversely similarly in extraction as a result. Native yeasts are used and it spends one years in Grandi Botti, 2500L and very old. A simple execution equals a simple equation. Young, fresh and delicious. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted September 2019

Poggiopiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

From proprietor Giovanni Battista Bartoli, of sangiovese and colorino and a San Casciano winery with no international varieties. Also no Riserva. High-toned, dark fruit and dusty sangiovese, rich in syrup swirl, certainly a vintage matter, concentrated, with a notable spike of heat. No new barriques used, only second and third passage. Long and consistent. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted September 2019

Poggiopiano Chianti Classico DOCG La Tradizione 2016

“I am quite Taliban in this idea,” says Giovanni Battista Bartoli, of being 100 per cent anti-international varieties. These San Casciano soils are of clay, sand, river stones and “limo” a silty-clay. Vinification in concrete tanks, for no better reason than micro-oxidation. La Tradizione is pure varietal sangiovese and curious to even remarkable in that the palate accentuates or rather elevates the floral notes, in violets and blues. Tone spikes in whole bunches, really tart acidity and implosive intensity. A touch pressed. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted September 2019

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($24.85)

In the northern part of San Casciano at 250m of altitude. Pressed for success, caramel, vanilla and simple savoury syrup. Strawberry with some of it deeper into wild types. Rich and fleshy, smooth, silken and proper acidity. Mainly clay soils with some Alberese. Creamy with help from lees and battonage. A bit of a chocolate finish again with solid acidity. High quality for the style. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted September 2019

Corsini and Capponi crests

Principe Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($26.95)

Duccio Corsini’s vineyards mostly face south, though some point to the east and the west. Vineyards teeming with fluvial sediment and river stones, large, medium and small. Ostensibly an ancient river situation on a hill. Showing beautifully today and at this time; juicy, fleshy and bloody expressive. The sweet tannins need two more years to resolve. Made with five per cent colorino. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted September 2019

Fattoria San Michele A Torri Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta La Gabbiola 2017

From Franca in the far north of San Casciano on 470 hectares and 65 planted to vineyard, 15 of which are in Chianti Classico, 12 in production. Mostly sangiovese with five per cent syrah planted closest to the river just because it’s not a site for sangiovese. A true peppery syrup to nose, haughty and heady with no shortage of concentration and grip. Quite stylish and modern. Very enticing and a bit heated at the same time. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted September 2019

Terre Di Perseto Chianti Classico DOCG Albòre 2016

Presented by Beatrice Landini. Two young brothers take over from grandfather. A notable mephitic sangiovese crusted in its major reduction. Really wound tight, quite juicy and if traditional it’s done with plum pudding and spice. No oak and yet done up in a very closed environment to give a crisp, tight and crispy expression. Last tasted September 2019

Sweet and candied, high acidity but not in a VA way, though alt-morbido malic and hard candy shelled. Needs some time for the crackling and the cracking to flake away. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted February 2019

Villa Belvedere Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Deep, dark and handsome from an old estate in the south of San Casciano on the north end of the ridge up from Radda, through Panzano and into Mercatale. Purchased five years ago and re-planted. Carries the richness meeting mineral notes of Galestro raised sangiovese albeit in the depth of a San Casciano vein. A note of smoky fennel and pollen with ripe acidity. Very much a product of young vines that will lead to more elastic and structured wines in years to come. A wine with shared affinities, to Mercatale in San Casciano and also Panzano. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted September 2019

Villa Sant’Andrea Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

A large 600 hectare estate with 50 hectares under vine, including merlot and two cabs to go along with sangiovese. The nose indicates jam and verdancy, likely picked ahead of the rains at high sugars early in September. Merlot especially in the first week and the sangiovese 15 days later. Phenolics are close but one more week (to ten days) would have likely taken this fruit to its final destination. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted September 2019

Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Presented by estate director estate manager Graziano Santoro. Very near the village of San Casciano, from Galestro filled vineyards, well pressed and of a specific density. There’s a curious oyster shell note and dark black cherry fruit, pit and all. Plenty of oak, plenty of ambition, spice and pique. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted September 2019

Villa Vallacchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

In the areas of Campoli and Tignanello, juice only sold to bulk through the 2015 vintage. Beginning in 2016 an Annata and a Riserva began to be produced. Ripe and floral with phenols very close to being fully realized. Still just a touch of verdancy with what can best be described as extreme fruit. A crunchy and tight Annata. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Good to go!

godello

Poggio Torselli

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WineAlign

Chianti Classico: Nine communes deep

Jun29

Radda in Chianti

In February I travelled to Tuscany for the 2018 Anteprime. In Florence I spent two days tasting sangiovese at the Chianti Classico Collection held at Stazione Leopolda. My WineAlign colleague John Szabo M.S. and I then paid visits over the next two and a half days at Poggio di Guardia, Castello di Volpaia, Rocca di Montegrossi, Rocca di Castagnoli, Castello di Ama, Isole E Olena, Podere Poggio Scalette, San Giusto A Rentennano and Valiano. Once again I am proud to be a messenger on a subject that continues to write itself. Chianti Classico. Where the slow pace is grounded in grace and nature slowly renders an intoxication of faith. Where the exceptionality of place, experience and innovation can’t be underestimated.

Related – All in with Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico and the Gallo Nero, a symbol not only designed and enshrined to classify the wines, but to ingrain something deeper, meaningful and soulful. The Gallo Nero stamps each bottle of sangiovese with a seal of approval, for a conceit of quality.

Godello and #gallonero ~ #chianticlassico

Two years ago the Gallo Nero celebrated its 300 year anniversary. At that time the appellation’s newest and noblest expression at the top of the quality pyramid was introduced in Toronto, the Gran Selezione. In 2017 the focus was on sangiovese, the grape at the heart and centre of the Chianti Classico universe. This year the greater whole is broken down, to give due to the nine pieces of the territory’s puzzle and the villages at their core.

Chianti Classico goes nine communes deep: Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti, Poggibonsi, Radda in Chianti, San Casciano Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Digging into these sub-zones of the territory is done with thanks to the generous work and spirit of Chianti Classico’s producers and with unwavering guidance from the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico: President Sergio Zingarelli, Vice-Presidents Sebastiano Capponi and Giovanni Manneti, Director Carlotta Gori, who I’d like to point out is the first woman to take the helm of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, PR & Communications Manager Silvia Fiorentini and Event Manager Christine Lechner.

Il Signore del Chianti Classico

Every wine region needs ambassadors to educate in the diaspora and as you can see in this picture, the first five were chosen this past February in Firenze. This was indeed one of the great honours of my life. I’m quite sure Jeffrey Porter, Michaela Morris, Massimo Castellani and Isao Miyajima felt the same.

Chianti Classico farmers and producers have spent three hundred organized years studying their soils to arrive at an understanding that this territory is better for growing sangiovese than all of the lands beyond its borders. This is very important. We break the territory down by commune. Chianti Classico will always come first but in all of Toscana only it is possessive of such distinct communes.

The first question to raise is why do we need to discuss Chianti Classico as composed of nine communes and why are many of them (along with smaller micro-territories or sub-sub zones) establishing associations to promote their wines? To communicate who they are and what kind of wine comes out of their section of the territory. These are things we need to recognize and talk about, not necessarily along lines of geology but rather in terms of community and especially styles and characteristics of the wines. Over the past two years I’ve made four visits to Chianti Classico and tasted more than six hundred wines. I truly believe that the sangiovese changes from commune to commune. While it may be far too difficult to say that each commune has a specific set of characteristics, the sangiovese made by each producer are in fact singular and surely related to the soil within the boundaries of their commune. We tried a very interesting exercise in Florence back in February, a blind tasting called La Prova dei Nove, or “The Proof of the Nine,” to see if 100-plus journalists and sommeliers could taste the commune through the sangiovese. I was 3 for 9 and quite pleased with myself. I sat with two prominent winemakers and one of them was 1 for 9. The conclusion? It’s really hard to taste the commune. But I’ll tell you why it’s still very important to discuss Chianti Classico as a sum of these essential parts.

ine wines, nine communes, this will be easy…not so much #blindtasting @chianticlassico #laprovadeinove so thanks @drinkeatlove now I’ll have to think about and pen another 100,000 word

Let’s create a hypothetical situation. Imagine you are the average wine consumer in Ontario. You come into the LCBO looking for an Italian red wine, a Tuscan red. You see nine bottles of Chianti Classico. Five just say that on the bottle, two add the word Riserva and two Gran Selezione. These additional label notations and the prices tell you about the difference in probable quality but the bottles are still all the same, from the same place. How do you choose? Well, if each were labeled with the nine different communes you might be curious and pick one, let’s say from Gaiole. Then after tasting it you might think to yourself, I really like the Chianti Classico from Gaiole. Now you’ve entered a whole new world of discovery, of comparisons. Some of you might say “but the consumer doesn’t even know the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico. This just makes it harder.” The devil’s advocate would say, on the contrary, adding the commune to the label does not add confusion, it adds intrigue and raises the profile of all the communes and the wines. Like Volnay, like Pommard, like Marsannay. But Bourgogne has 84 AOCs. Chianti Classico are only nine and surely their names all refer to quality. All of them. Chianti Classico means quality. It means sangiovese. Discussing the wines in new terms like communes does not say that one is better than another or that the wines from any one are of higher quality. It simply updates the profile and raises the bar for all. Hypothetically speaking.

A coupla @chianticlassico ambassadors enjoying the moment. With Jeffrey Porter, a.k.a. @drinkeatlove

Many wine regions are defined by their soils and the fine lines that separate greatness from mediocrity. The two soil epochs of Barolo are divided by a diagonal line that runs from the northeast down to the southwest. On one side Tortonian and the other, Serravallian, both formed millions of years ago and each capable for producing different styles of nebbiolo. In Bordeaux one bank celebrates cabernet sauvignon while the other merlot and cabernet franc. In Chablis the Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards are specifically drawn while in greater Bourgogne the composition of the soil gradates from north to south and so that we know where pinot noir and chardonnay must be planted and for best probable results. In Montalcino we understand the differences between northern and southern vineyards but also know where you are relative to the hill of Montalcino and from which micro-climate will have a great effect on the wines.

So what about Chianti Classico? Comparing or thinking about Chianti Classico as needing to be understood like Bourgogne, Piemonte or Montalcino is not the answer. It’s not the same and never will be. Considering the communes as adding up to the whole is a step in the right direction.

The cartologist Alessandro Masnaghetti has concentrated on the parameters of each commune and drawn precise topographical maps. They are great resources for understanding where but still they don’t tell us why. Why do wines typically turn out the way they do? Remember that the crus of Chianti Classico are not farmed by multiple producers. So consider that the approach might best begin with the producer so that we don’t say this Chianti Classico from Castellina made by Rocca delle Macie tastes like this but rather, this Rocca delle Macie tastes this way and it is from Castellina, in Chianti Classico. It’s a subtle rearrangement but it must always begin with the producer.

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Before we move on to the wines, one commune at a time, it should be noted that the 2017 vintage presented one of the greater challenges in recent Chianti Classico times. After the intense heat of the driest of summers it was essential that growers waited out the early September rains, followed by the beautiful and phenolic ripeness ensuring warmth of the next three weeks. “I noticed that most producers had already, inconceivably, finished harvesting by the 15th of September!!! A haste that can’t be positive.” These are the wisest of words from Rocca di Montegrossi’s Marco Ricasoli. It remains to be seen but we’ll see if Marco’s prophecy will ring true and be confirmed at Anteprime’s Chianti Classico Collection in February 2019.

These 112 reviews cover the wines I tasted at the February Chianti Classico Collection 2018 in Firenze and three subsequent days of touring through Chianti Classico.

Castellina in Chianti

Related – Castellina in golden light

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (168286, $23.95, WineAlign)

Ripeness is the deeper virtu and virtue in Bibbiano’s ’16 and as always there is this push-pull of two terroirs. One is of fruit the other rock but both layer intersectional and complimentary. This is a breakthrough, if it may be said, an aha moment for a Bibbiano Annata, educational and exemplary. More reward will come from subsequent vintages. The block here is some firm Castellina tannin but even more so one specific to the Bibbiano plateau and angles. It’s important to wait at least a year for the pressed intensity to subside. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 bibbianowines lesommelierwine @bibbianowines @LeSommelierWine Bibbiano Chianti Classico Le Sommelier, Wine Agency

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Montornello DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Yet another Gran Selezione that tells us how the producers intuit the difference between the category and Riserva even while the consumer is still not quite in the know. GS is deeper and represents a place or a gathering of the best fruit, not a step up in aging only, but all things gathered and put into place. This from the northern side of the estate, opposite Capannino. Montornello is the sweet and savoury, even salty of the Bibbiano GS but also the one of great strength. But it too takes the vintage and gives a little bit more, not quite a hug (sic) but certainly some earlier pleasure. All things are relative. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted February 2018 bibbianowines lesommelierwine @bibbianowines @LeSommelierWine Bibbiano Chianti Classico Le Sommelier, Wine Agency

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Capannino 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

It should be expected that out of 2015 the Bibbiano Gran Selezione would show more fruit, less brood and for sure not near the abstruse consternation that young, more demanding vintages have shown. At least from Capannino. This is the truth in 2015 though the nature of this slope demands at least a few raises of the eyebrow and tension rising of the shoulders. Thinking about Capannino can’t happen without remembering that the fruit comes from ’58 and ’62 sangiovese grosso vines put in by Giulio Gambelli, then grafts from that material for masale propogation in 1999 and the 2000s. Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi will figure out the nuances of these tracts of specific Castellina terroir before too long and this flat out chewy mouthful of sangiovese is the next step there. Needs three years though. Didn’t you know that already? Drink 2020-2028. Tasted February 2018 bibbianowines lesommelierwine @bibbianowines @LeSommelierWine Bibbiano Chianti Classico Le Sommelier, Wine Agency

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Gabriele Buondonno and Valeria Sodano bought the Castellina in Chianti farm known as Casavecchia alla Piazza in 1988, a plot that clearly appeared on the maps of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa in 1549 and is marked as the “place of Lionardo Buonarroti,” nephew to Michelangelo. Their Chianti Classico is 90 per cent sangiovese, plus merlot and syrah from a place Michelangelo once wrote to his uncle “I would rather have two barrels of Trebbiano than eight shirts.” Clearly pulled of of a special terroir, Buondonno’s organic Annata is pretty and purposed, with fresh tart strawberry and an intensity of acidity. It’s very long, unrelenting, showing some focus above and beyond. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 #buondonno #buondonno

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (970095, $24.95, WineAlign)

The Castellina ideal is furthered by Castelllare’s ’16, the one concerning purity and honesty from sangiovese. There is a beauty to this one, mildly mineral, tangy and tart but silky smooth without any unnecessary welling of syrupy liqueur. Lovely Annnata. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 #castellaredicastellina dionysuswines @CastellareWines @DionysusWines @CastellarediCastellina @DionysusWinesTO

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

As the name might suggest, it seems this Rubiolo is a redhead and means some serious sangiovese business, with pressed, rolled and laid out red fruit, mostly berry but with an accent of (merlot dished) plum and pomegranate. The limestone here strikes as Galestro though there too is this cakey weight that only Castellina in Chianti argilo would deal. The architecture for Rubiolo is one of houses built to last. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 anticopoderegagliole @Gagliolewines @Gagliole

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (211599, $17.95, WineAlign)

Lornano comes out of Castellina in Chianti with such prominent perfume, grit and surprising intensity. It’s a much bigger wine than many 15s but perhaps not surprising from a Chianti Classico crafted by the agronomist and oenologist hands of Silvio Campatelli, Franco and Matteo Bernabei. Also when Nicolò Pozzoli tells you “sangiovese needs the bottle” you listen and make a note to self saying “he is correct.” This is a very early point in time to taste such a youthful and walled in Lornano. Will begin to soften in the later months of this year. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 @LornanoWines Frontier Wine Merchants lornano @lornanochianticlassico

Gallo Nero

Lornano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Bandite 2013, Tuscany, Italy (230672, $19.95, WineAlign)

Le Bandite just recently went to bottle at the same time as the Annata Classico 2015 and so the window is open just a crack. Once again it is this team of vitculturalist Silvio Campatelli with oenologists Franco and Matteo Bernabei that deliver true sangiovese value to our Ontario market. The field and cellar work offer generosity above and beyond, not to mention the patience to hold back a wine such as this for at least an extra year so that it is ready upon release. That said the structure of Lornano is sneaky firm, grippy and long, so another year (plus) in bottle will add to the gift. By now we know about the exceptionality of 2013, especially at the (extra time in wood) Riserva level, here from Castellina with spice, frutta di bosco and terra selvaggia. The wood is very much in, from a 50-50 split between barriques and botti grandi that brings layering, balance and again, so much spice. Don’t be in a rush to drink this. Savour it next decade. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted February 2018 lornano @LornanoWines @lornanochianticlassico

Mazzei Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Ser Lapo 2015, Tuscany, Italy (288530, $22.95, WineAlign)

Ser Lapo is a generous, gregarious and wealthy fruit spilling Riserva full of ripe and ropey 2015 fruit. It’s quite the chewy mouthful of sangiovese and merlot that takes no overly traditional or rustic chances. Modern, plush and international. Methinks Signore Lapo would approve. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 marchesimazzei profilewinegroup @MarchesiMazzei @ProfileWineGrp Marchesi Mazzei – Castello di Fonterutoli Profile Wine Group

Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Famiglia Zingarelli 2015, Tuscany, Italy (930966, $23.95, WineAlign)

Takes the warmth of the vintage and turns its Famiglia Zingarelli beauty into power. Vineyards delivering higher quality fruit then ever before bring the gold out of Castellina and provide great presence and firm disposition. There is a savoury note under the liquor but all in all this is most pleasing sangiovese. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 @roccadellemacie @roccadellemacie @ProfileWineGrp Profile Wine Group roccadellemacie

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $17.95, WineAlign)

It would not be a stretch to assume and acknowledge how the powers that be at Villa Trasqua are almost certainly and perfectly happy and proud of this effort from 2015. Fruit from Nerento and surrounding rolling Castellina in Chianti hills came out as ripe, crisp and clean as it ever has. The level of quality runs high and while the stylistic is certainly a come and get me one, the sneaky level of structure will get you in the end. A coup of an Annata here from the brothers Hulsbergen. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 #VillaTrasqua @tenutavillatrasqua @HULSI_II Frontier Wine Merchants villatrasqua

Cena @chianticlassico #ccc2018 @stazione_leopolda

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Deeply pressed full fruit, dark black cherry sangiovese with high level acidity and plenty of minty savour. A many and all things going on Annata from Castelnuovo Berardenga with a heat streak running in early and lingering. Might settle in a year. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted February 2018 #cantinebonacchi @TheCaseForWine Cantine Bonacchi

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (23325, $16.95, WineAlign)

The early and often persistence of pressed ripe and ready fruit sits floating at the fore of this glass. Value is acquiesced with great immediacy so look to see this on the market as soon as any from Castelnuovo Berardenga and indeed in the entire territory. No time is wasted nor fruit held back with quick to chime acidity and a dusty, slightly chalky finish. Drink 2018-2019. Tasted February 2018 borgoscopetorelais @BorgoScopeto @rubenelmer Borgo Scopeto Ruben Elmer

Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2013, Tuscany, Italy (SAQ, 908228, $21.80, WineAlign)

Castell’In Villa’s is a beautifully rendered and now beginning to evolve Castelnuovo Berardenga sangiovese from the vintage that increasingly generates an opinion that 2013 is indeed a highly enjoyable vintage. Sweet developed fruit and spice, a bit of smoulder and a long, elastic, stretched like fior di latte finish. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted February 2018 Castell In Villa Les Importations Olea inc. marino_castellinvillarestauran

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (994608, $22.95, WineAlign)

Once again the concept of the single-monlithic sangiovese sensation is squashed and trashed by yet another twisting turn and dart into something completely other. Bossi’s carries an aroma new and exotic, of incense and peppermint, cola and coffee bean. Its texture is quite exquisite, the flavours into a purée, spiked by laurel and its bay. As smooth on its exit as it was on the way in. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 #castellodibossi oeno2 #CastellodiBossi @oenophilia1 @CastellodiBossi Connexion Oenophilia

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (283101, $23.95, WineAlign)

The Dievole Annata stands out for 2016 with the sweetest noted fruit, bright, ripe and pulsating. Wow and oh my has this got a bounce in its step. While certainly tart and intense it’s possessive of more pure joy than many, easily avoiding the trappings of over-extraction and over-pressing. Some may find this too electric but what reason could there be not to get excited by such an abundance of sangiovese energy? Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 @dievole profilewinegroup @Dievole @ProfileWineGrp dievole Profile Wine Group

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (730788, $36.99, WineAlign)

From the great wide Berardenga open Fèlsina’s is just the Annata to tell us how these snowflakes are all just a bit different from one another, each with a new vintage, redefined temper, starting from singular points of soil interest. The greatest purity and unbridled joy in Chianti Classico sangiovese is found in the young Annata and it is Fèlsina’s that tells a full story. The curative wisdom and variegated stratum as told by thick as thieves though stretched and elastic fruit is just amazing. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted February 2018 felsina_wines liffordgram @felsinawines @LiffordON Felsina Lifford Wine and Spirits

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $19.95, WineAlign)

Though Querciavalle holds their Annata back longer than almost any this ’13 remains or should say persists so taut and coiled reductive, though it is so close to opening up. The earth runs through, now composted and integrated with juicy fruit. There is a special liquidity vis a vis this gathering of fruit, soil and acidity though now the tannins have melted and joined the mix. It may as well be Riserva, not technically, but certainly in spirit. Concentrate on the texture and you will feel the generational pull, thread and wisdom in the Losi sangiovese. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 valerialosi @Valerialosi @NaturalVines @marzia_gallo @famiglialosi Valeria Losi Marzia Gallo

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $24.95, WineAlign)

Were you to Google traditional + Chianti Classico + Castelnuovo Berardenga you would likely land on a Losi Querciavalle page. Family values and the sharing forward of generational knowledge happens at this estate with the greatest of innate and intuitive possibility. In a world of climate change and extremes it becomes increasingly difficult to fashion consistency from sangiovese. The winter of 2012 was followed by the dry heat of summer oft times leading to dehydrated and concentrated fruit. And yet Losi’s strong and firm Riserva has found the beauty in this well of sangiovese liquor, first with “benevolenza” and then by “graziosità.” The fruit is sweet against the wall of acidity and tannin so with thanks to the family’s patience is now in synch together. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted February 2018 valerialosi @Valerialosi @NaturalVines @marzia_gallo @famiglialosi Valeria Losi Marzia Gallo

Fattoria Di Petroio Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

From Quercegrossa, carries some baggage, weighted down in reductive tendency so that structure can develop for longer than other sangiovese Annata. Dark raven-streaked fruit commits to the density and the corporeal purpose. A microbe or three of volatile acidity props and distributes tension so balance has its parts if just a hair or two in asymmetrical stride. Not the most definitive Chianti Classico for Castelnuovo Berardenga. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted February 2018 fattoriapetroio @diana_petroio Fattoria di Petroio

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (282996, $19.95, WineAlign)

Particularly standard and middle road taken sangiovese, expressive of ripe annata 2016 fruit, tart and pressed to weight. Filled in and ready for the earliest enjoyment is clearly the intent, from fruit taken full advantage and tannin kept to a minimum. Just a touch of verdant berry intertwine is noted. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 borgosanfelice #BorgoSanFelice Borgo San Felice

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Grigio 2015, Tuscany, Italy (403477, $48.95, WineAlign)

Il Grigio di San Felice shows terrific red and black fruit marking the aromatic entry in a Gran Selezione of power and beauty. Very distinguished vintage with chalky tannins though not the acidity of some, it works the balance of this particular Castelnuovo Berardenga room. Drink 2019-2027. Tasted February 2018 borgosanfelice #BorgoSanFelice Borgo San Felice

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Vallenuova is crunchy sangiovese, closed and airtight. Dusty wild cherry nose but not much else save for a brush past a rosemary bush. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 tolainiwine breakthrubevcanada @TolainiWines @BreakthruBevCAN Tolaini Wine Breakthru Beverage: Canada

My beloved Sommelier and me #CCC2018

Valiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (354019, $19.95, WineAlign)

From the Piccini family this Valiano Chianti Classico is give or take 90 per cent sangiovese and 10 per cent merlot, from rolling Castelnuovo Berardenga terroir, in the spot just west of the Gaiole peinsula and just below Radda. The soils are argilo, calcareous clay with 70 hectares in over 30 plots of (now organic) total production. An aromatic profile that is perfumed, not exactly floral but more an extract of eau de vivre and then a seriously polished texture and flavour. The wood is very much involved, in spicy notes up front and deep set in the back. A really solid and in its finest moments, sexy Annata. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 picciniwines @PicciniWinesUK PICCINI WINES

Valiano Chianti Classico DOCG Poggio Teo 2013, Tuscany, Italy (354019, $19.95, WineAlign)

Poggio Teo is a Castelnouvo Berardenga cru up on the hill and a selection of grapes are made for this separate Annata wine. A very similar profile, especially in perfume, with an essential oiliness adding to the eau di vive, pretty, pulchritudinous and concentrated. Another rich rendition, as modern and forthright as it gets, with tart and spicy acidity and easy going tannins. Chewy and longer finish, deep, dark and handsome for 2013. Much more Tuscan, territorial and parochial. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 picciniwines @PicciniWinesUK PICCINI WINES

Valiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 6.38 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Valiano’s is a single-vineyard Gran Selezione with 6.38 a reference to the coordinates of that vineyard, not the hour the workers wake up to prune, pluck and pick in the vineyards. An extension in hyperbole from and connected to the lineage of the Annata, but more like a 2013 than the Teo, with salumi and ropey, red citrus edging on the dark fruit. Smoky and it is the merlot always bringing the fat round curves but also spice and cake, especially when small barriques are involved. Would not refer to this as elegant in terms of Gran Selezione but the fruit carries more than a full amount of purpose. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 picciniwines @PicciniWinesUK PICCINI WINES

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $35.95, WineAlign)

Geggiano’s particular corner of Castelnuovo Berardenga delivers the gift of calm and collected, deeply fruity and sneaky, streaky, stony sangiovese. It gets neither more subtle nor more appreciable than these wines and in 2015 there is warmth indeed but also a cool sliver of mineral truth. This Chianti Classico does not guess at its ways and intentions, it commits to them with implicit and intuitive, life affirming strength. Great length, really great length. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 villa_di_geggiano andreaboscu barrelselect @VilladiGeggiano @BarrelSelect @VilladiGeggiano @barrelselectinc

Monti in Chianti

Gaiole in Chianti

Related – Because the night in Gaiole

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Docg Brolio Bettino 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $32.95, WineAlign)

This second CC Brolio label carries the name of Bettino Ricasoli, inventor of the Chianti formula in 1872. The 2015 edition of the Iron Baron’s Chianti Classico is indubitably vintage driven with far softer feelings and expressions than we last saw in the grippy 2013. After tasting through a pile of such fresh, firm and intense ‘16s this first nose of ’15 is almost an apposite shock. So bloody different in fact the first thought is hematic as opposed to the ferric nature of the ’16s. The 2015 sangiovese are the blood of the decade, the lifeline, life-affirming and life giving Chianti Classico. Brolio’s Bettino is a pure and exemplary one to talk of such things. It delivers fruit and the defined nature of acidity that is a multi-purposed Annata drawn from a gathering off of multiple and variegated types of aisle in Chianti soils. Perfectly ready and in the zone. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 francescoricasoli churchillcellars @barone_ricasoli @imbibersreport Ricasoli 1141 Churchill Cellars Ltd.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva Docg Rocca Guicciarda 2015, Tuscany, Italy (943613, $24.95, WineAlign)

Not that recent vintages were not appealing for the Rocca Guicciarda Riserva but why would 2015 not be the bomb for this ready to go edition? The fruit is at its selected best, with no shortage of phenolic ripeness and flavour compounds. It’s a multitude of berries that make this drink with such early pleasure so make use of this Gaiole in Chianti sangiovese while the more curious and challenging ’13s and ‘14s take their time in getting where they need to go. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted May 2018 francescoricasoli churchillcellars @barone_ricasoli @imbibersreport Ricasoli 1141 Churchill Cellars Ltd.

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $24.95, WineAlign)

Here comes the sort of Chianti Classico of swagger and charming, parochial Gaiole in Chianti character. It’s tacky, meaning it zigs and zags with travels from aromas through flavours. It’s also extremely bright like being blinded by too much sun on a beach day. There is great fruit in this Barrufo 2015, perhaps a shade too deep into adornment but who can deny the utter deliciousness? Really chewy and gastronomic sangiovese at the end of the day. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 __cantalici_winery__ @wineCantalici Cantalici Carlo Cantalici Angela Butini

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $34.95, WineAlign)

In this new era where modern parlance includes Gran Selezione this next stop on the road for Ama continues with the seventh vintage of the Château-expressionist bottling. Ama is, as it is known, like Prince or Bono, a really rich and full ’16, a brick house of sangiovese, liquid clay streaked by chalky liquidity. It’s might is mighty borne and bred, taking the season’s gifts and letting it all hang out. Quite substantial for 2016 and for Annata CC as a category. Impressive for its concentration and the balance managed considering the collected ambition. Acumen is to be lauded. Tells us that these Gaiole vineyards are some of the finest in the territory. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 castellodiama halpernwine @CastellodiAma @HalpernWine @castellodiama @halpernwine

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2015, Tuscany, Italy (418897, $48.95, WineAlign)

Though not technically a single-vineyard wine the fruit source depends highly on this portion of the Gaiole in Chianti estate. As a blend of all the best plots of the property from a vintage with both La Casuccia or Bellavista having been produced it is truly fortunate that nature gifted so much promising fruit so that the right stuff could find its way into San Lorenzo. It is Gran Selezione of great history and no vintage has been as generous as this ’15. It’s accessibility above and beyond the category is astounding, probably because it shares the finest and sweetest acidities plus tannins. The plural is employed because the complexities are varied and variegated. Wonderful red fruit and seamless integration. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted February 2018 castellodiama halpernwine @CastellodiAma @HalpernWine @castellodiama @halpernwine

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $242.59, WineAlign)

There was no Vigneto Bellavista produced in 2014 and while the über-specific Bellavista Vineyard Gran Selezione is polar-antithetical to San Lorenzo you can’t help but feel the tiro di famiglia and shared connection to the past. What is contrapositive is the Bellavista modern twist, I suppose, less about acidities and tannin, more about fruit and barrel. Spices, baking scents and bricks combine with black fruit for a hematic and ferric take on Gran Selezione. It’s a big wine with firm grip to be sure and it feels like we don’t yet belong in its space. At this stage we are like The Observer, with a telescopic lens into the vineyard as per the Ilya & Emilia Kabakov installation at Ama. We and Bellavista will need five years to get comfortable and to incorporate the integration of weight and charm. Drink 2022-2031. Tasted February 2018 castellodiama halpernwine @CastellodiAma @HalpernWine @castellodiama @halpernwine

I Sodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, 435123, WineAlign)

I Sodi is dusty, high-toned, bright acid covered and tart red fruit sangiovese, more house-styled than either Gaiole or vintage, or so it would seem. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted February 2018 Agriturismo Le Trappoline – Azienda Agricola I Sodi

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico Riserva Docg Poggio A Frati 2013, Tuscany, Italy (23358, $32.95, WineAlign)

Poggio A Frati ’13 is 95 per cent sangiovese plus canaiolo, “just to keep the traditional blend, but without any true impact,” says Angelo Dalbello. The Riserva comes from schisty Alberese soil at Poggio Fratti, the hills of the friars. A 12-hectare plot that shines in 2013, a Riserva vintage through and through, in how you may think it rustic though it’s clearly more complex than the Annata in every way and ultimately spinning the Gaiole sapidity. Aged for one year in tonneaux plus an extra year in bottle. No barriques. I repeat, no barriques. The aroma dominance is wild strawberry and then it gives woods, wind and air. The spice is red citrus piqued and the tart edging like a fence around the fruit. A pure and honest, ode to all that led to this moment Riserva for Gaiole. Truly a sangiovese expression of terroir. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 roccadicastagnoli profilewinegroup @Roccacastagnoli @ProfileWineGrp Rocca di Castagnoli Profile Wine Group

Tomorrow I’ll be presenting @chianticlassico to trade and media in Toronto so naturally I went to Barrie and bought the last two @roccadicastagnoli Stielle left in the province ~ #gaiole

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Stielle 2013, Docg Tuscany, Italy (459529, $45.95, WineAlign)

From a vineyard that records indicate was planted as far back as 970, Stielle is built upon a foundation of more Galestro soil. Why? As a factor of that soil and probably because it could ripen. This ’13 was fermented by 100 per cent whole bunch, not common for sangiovese, but the high acidity, from high elevation and this soil, led to making such a decision. Not as rich and smooth (or perhaps firm and brooding) in youth as compared to let’s say Chianti Classico in Castellina or Castelnuovo Berardenga but the acidity and sapidity will deliver the velvet with the passage of time, in a way, more like Radda. Last tasted February 2018

Le Stielle in 2013 and its just faint hint of high acidity mixed and boxed with volatility is just on the most correct side of ripe meets structured life. When Gran Selzione gains such a cherry and fine salty mineral meeting of the structured minds it’s a special thing indeed. This is a fine GS with precision and understated, refined and capable power. Really fine, even just firm enough to deliver 10-15 years of slow developed 100 per cent sangiovese expression. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted September 2017 roccadicastagnoli profilewinegroup @Roccacastagnoli @ProfileWineGrp Rocca di Castagnoli Profile Wine Group

San Marcellino texture and acidity in the #roccadimontegrossi clay and Galestro of Monti in Chianti.

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany Italy (Agent, $29.99, WineAlign)

The Chianti Classico 2016 was bottled just three months ago (in November) and is quite consistent to 2015 though at this stage not as gentle and in a way, deeper hued and fruit compressed. The structure follows the thread, always carrying the colour and depth of these Gaiole vineyards, from great thick clay and fantastic, friable Galestro. It’s a very specific grain of texture and tannin, chalky but chewy. This has just a great kick, swagger and confidence, mainly due to the exceptional fineness of acidity. It challenges, tempers and is quicker to integrate that grainy tannin so that more elegance is derived. Such a cool, sapid and structured mouthful. Fantastic Chianti Classico. Drink 2018-2024. Tasted February 2018 #roccadimontegrossi vinoallegrobc devonmasciangelo #roccadimontegrossi @VinoAllegro @VinoAllegroBC @RoccadiMontegrossi Vino Allegro BC Devon Masciangelo

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $63.49, WineAlign)

The first vintage as a Gran Selezione was 2010, before having been labeled as Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino. It was never referred to as a Riserva and so the switch to GS was a matter of celebrating vineyard and especially a pronouncement of aging (minimum 50 months barrel plus bottle). Even now six more months in bottle has altered the texture, integrated the grain and added to the cool sapidity. Great acidity from the vintage in my opinion that makes the greatest strides with the longer aging period. Last tasted February 2018

Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi’s Gran Selezione boasts more than its share of Chianti Classico history and epochal location in its DNA. Legend dates back to 1039 for Azzi di Geremia Ricasoli and just as far back for the 1000 year-old Pieve San Marcellino. The vineyard gains more archetypal status with each turn of the calendar and the use of just a little bit of endemic pugnitello is awarded the singular varietal assist for Gaiole. With the 2013 vintage well tucked into the back pocket of this iconic Gran Selezione there is this sense of calm and refined, controlled intensity that just begs to get out, but the tannin and rigid structure have it well sealed in. This is what happens when the best fruit and a near perfect vintage come together. It’s fineness of tannin takes on great responsibility and it can do nothing but be a match to the task. Rocca di Montegrossi’s single entity Vigneto San Marcellino is sangiovese of density, intensity and power. It is assuredly one of the finest examples of the vintage. Drink 2020-2030. Tasted September 2017 #roccadimontegrossi vinoallegrobc devonmasciangelo #roccadimontegrossi @VinoAllegro @VinoAllegroBC @RoccadiMontegrossi Vino Allegro BC Devon Masciangelo

John Szabo and Luca Martini di Cigala

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Age is apparent on the nose of Luca Martini di Cigala’s Chianti Classico 2005, if hardly whatsoever in the comparative hues of a showing side by side with 2015. This Annata wisps with a smoulder while fruit remains fresh and alive, as if released only yesterday, not 13 years ago. Was a warm year 2005 so this is even more remarkable. A suggestion of truffle and balsamic may be there but you have to concentrate hard to notice so it’s more conceptual than a verified reality. Liquid chalk from what should have been a perfect vintage though rains at harvest diminished the hope and yet how great is this? Seems more Alberese affected than the 2015, that and the hanging tree fruit flavours of dried carob and bokser. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 #sangiustoarentennano #sangiustoarentennano #sangiustoarentennano

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baròncole 2004, DOCG Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Luca Martini di Cigala pours ’04 side by side with the next grossly undervalued vintage. First a re-taste of the very perfumed La Baròncole 2014, from the underestimated vintage that should not be so. With a texture that is San Giusto, if possibly also Gaiole meets a border with Castelnuovo. Then onto Chianti Classico Riserva 2004, from a late harvest, finishing the pick on the 15th or 16th of October, really late for the area. Great acidity is so persistent even if there seems to be some more complex progression as compared to the ’05 Annata, but that is the nature of Riserva, with more dried fruit and savoury-liquorice secondary notes. More spice too, both baking and tobacco and so it is a deeply hematic and plush hyperbole of the younger versions of itself. I imagine this to be in the waning years of its life and soon, perhaps two years from now will mellow and soften into the downy moments it will seek and find. In the meantime, just like its ten years forward sibling, tart never had it this good and linger it does for a decade in your mouth. Do you have to let it linger? The cranberry acidity won’t give you a choice and even if you feel used, it may just hang around there forever. Drink 2018-2026. Tasted May 2018 #sangiustoarentennano #sangiustoarentennano #sangiustoarentennano

Greve in Chianti

Related – A river runs through Greve

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (356048, $19.95, WineAlign)

Much further along the road to expression is the way I’d have to announce the immediacy from Carpineto’s quick to gratify Annata ’16. The fruit aches to be pounced upon and used as quickly as you can make this happen. And yet there is a moment of microbial grounding to keep it honest and traditional. In the end it’s a really full and gregarious expression for sangiovese with true red limestone liquidity. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 carpinetowines univinscanada @CarpinetoWines @UNIVINS Carpineto Wines @agence.UNIVINS

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (680496, $24.95, WineAlign)

Castello di Querceto’s Greve in Chianti 2016 is perfumed by just a lovely fresh fruit nose, a mixed bowl of berries, juices yet running, plump, swelling, dusty and sanguine. Certainly on the riper end of the spectrum and with a finishing moment of bitters. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 castellodiquerceto profilewinegroup @CastQuerceto @ProfileWineGrp Castello di Querceto Profile Wine Group

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2014, Tuscany, Italy (650754, $28.95, WineAlign)

Still reluctant at this three-plus year mark it is the challenging vintage that really speaks and tells us that patience is needed for longevity and understanding. A depth of dark, liquorice-black cherry meets Cassis gathering suggests cabernet sauvignon adds strength in fruit to savoury 2014 sangiovese dominance. Time will tell just what will come from this formidable Riserva. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 castellodiquerceto profilewinegroup @CastQuerceto @ProfileWineGrp Castello di Querceto Profile Wine Group

Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico DOCG Nozzole 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

From the Greve in Chianti project of Ambrogio Folonari and son Giovanni, Nozzole’s Chianti Classico is immediately wild strawberry noted, a pretty, pretty wine, ripe and balanced. Such a persistent sangiovese with nice focus, knows what it needs and wants to be. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 folonaritenute @FolonariTenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari Tenute

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG San Jacopo 2016, Tuscany, Italy (710194, $19.95, WineAlign)

A syrup quells and wells on the nose in Vicchiomaggio’s Greve drawn San Jacopo, like an anaesthetic offering temporary numbing before the scents of fennel and baking spices shake you clear. Here the vintage is spoken early and with weight, density and deep impression. Everything fires on quick cylinders; fruit, wood spice, smoulder and verdant savour. It’s all in and immediate. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 castellovicchiomaggio @vicchiomaggio @SignatureWS1 Castello Vicchiomaggio

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2015, Tuscany, Italy (993360, $29.95, WineAlign)

Agostino Peri is an expressly and explicitly written Riserva from Vicchiomaggio, dusty, high in acidity and ultimately, ostensibly wholly, traditional. Sits on a perch above Greve in Chianti lands to tell the world. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 castellovicchiomaggio @vicchiomaggio @SignatureWS1 Castello Vicchiomaggio

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Terre di Prenzano 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

The single block Terre di Prenzano out of Greve is a particularly expressive aromatic ocean, with a tidal flow of dusty, edgy florals and fruit replete with waves of sweet acidity and candied tannin. This is a departure, welcome and exciting. Few Chianti Classico pulse with such activity and locomotion this early, especially for the vintage. So much promise avows and abounds. Really like the direction Vignamaggio is heading. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 vignamaggio #hhdimports @vignamaggio @HHDImports_Wine Vignamaggio vignamaggio

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Gherardino 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Gherardino is Greve in Chianti old school, in a way, with dried fruit, potpourri and a wealth of fennel-liquorice savour. Spice notes are very prevalent, as is the idea that in three years or so this will turn over into balsamico, porcini and tartufo. Wise and traditional Riserva. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted February 2018 vignamaggio #hhdimports @vignamaggio @HHDImports_Wine Vignamaggio vignamaggio

Chianti Classico Collection 2018

Lamole

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta di Lamole 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $36.95, WineAlign)

Lamole, though still wild west and yet underdeveloped is clearly the next important Chianti Classico sub-sub-zone terroir. With so much untapped potential it is Giovanni Manetti’s of Fontodi that speaks the earliest, clearest truth about such capabilities. Not that we want to see too quick an exploit of this unique micro-climate and geological wonder but the insatiable thirst of curiosity begs to know. What earth gets into, inside and beneath this sub-strata is dramatic and so bloody personal. It’s a thing of forest floor, rock interface, space and sky, all encompassing, with the filtered, dappled light of sangiovese all pervasive and ethereal. Great chalk and dust particles visible to the naked eye in those streaks of lightning acidity and fine tannin swirl to lightness of being. Though 2014 is a sangiovese of great brood, flavour and commercial appeal, now there is greater potential. This ’15 is perhaps the first Fontodi of Lamole that has crossed into the true reality of the territory. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 #Fontodi rogersandcompanywines #fontodi @rogcowines Az. Agr. Fontodi #fontodi

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra di Lamole 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Lamole in Greve is the source for this high toned, stone-tined and savoury aromatic young Annata, traditional, mildly volatile in its wise rusticity and surprisingly tannic. This is the sort of pressed sangiovese you’d find over the decades, from information and technique passed down and upheld by the current generation. Continues the thread with more microbes and real live tart notes to taste. Builds and builds upon its old-school foundation. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 ifabbriclassico @IFabbriLamole I Fabbri

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra di Lamole 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Into the Lamole lair we delve from I Fabbri with 90 per cent sangiovese (grosso) plus canaiolo nero of great potential and it should also be said, probability, if not right now then soon, very soon. This terroir is different and if we are not quite sure exactly how or why then perhaps the producers are not quite sure either. The fruit is 98 per cent ripe but I can’t help but wonder how greatness could have been were the number perfect. That may be asking too much but something is amiss, even while the dusty excesses and fine acidity support of wild red fruit is there to see, sense, feel and enjoy. That is the end game after all. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 ifabbriclassico @IFabbriLamole I Fabbri

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Blue Label 2015, Tuscany, Italy, (476317, $23.95, WineAlign)

From the Lamole sub-section of Greve in Chianti this is 80 per cent sangiovese plus 10 each cabernet and merlot, the latter raised in barriques. A minimum of 22 months is total, this is found to be quite the jammy Annata, surely vintage driven from out of the higher altitude diurnal temperature swings in Lamole. A wine of typicality for the territory and certainly pressed and expressed for immediate gratification. Really plum-fruit fleshy with notable wood spice, especially on the international varieties. Moves into and finishes with dark and stormy tannins in a controlled weather pattern. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 lamoledilamole philippedandurandwines @LamoleDiLamole @lamolewines @Dandurandwines Lamole di Lamole Vins Philippe Dandurand Wines

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Etichetta Bianco 2015, Tuscany, Italy, (Agent, $23.95, WineAlign)

The second of two Chianti Classico Annata is the Etichetta Bianca, which unlike the Blue Label bottle spends six months in steel, followed by six in big oak casks. Once again offers the Lamole perspective with a glimpse into the limestone, schist and altitude potential of the zone. The absence of barrique aging means the (80 per cent) sangiovese stands out and works with the earth, though here in more ochre, lower hanging, warmer tones. There would seem to be a high percentage of clay from lower hill sites on this fruit because the acidity is subdued and the fruit darker in flavour, though not because of wood. It is a delicious glass of sangiovese regardless and presents yet another moment to talk about sub-sub-zone potential. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 lamoledilamole philippedandurandwines @LamoleDiLamole @lamolewines @Dandurandwines Lamole di Lamole Vins Philippe Dandurand

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Etichetta Grigia 2014, Tuscany, Italy, (280651, $28.95, WineAlign)

Winemaker Andrea Daldin is very proud of his work in 2014, the challenge as great as ever, but he’s sure he’s done great work. A vendemmia ultra-selezionale. Andrea came back from holiday in late August and removed all the foliage to open up the bunches to whatever sun might come and in September it did. Three passages were performed to seek out stages of phenolic ripeness and the sorting table really came in handy on this work. It’s 85 per cent sangiovese and 15 per cent canaiolo, “to bring more typicity for the area.” Here is a deep and rich, generous and extremely carefully curated (grey label) Riserva, OCD style, with no albarese, galestro or macigno stone left unturned. It’s a very pretty nose, elevation and all angles curved, holes filled and everything made whole in Riserva style. Quite ferric and serious, there is some tart astringency at the finish, a sign of vintage and youth but this too shall pass. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 lamoledilamole philippedandurandwines @LamoleDiLamole @lamolewines @Dandurandwines Lamole di Lamole Vins Philippe Dandurand

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vignetto di Campolungo 2014, Tuscany, Italy, (231241, $37.95, WineAlign)

The Vigneto di Campolungo 2014 spent an extra few years in bottle after élevage for what directs this Gran Selezione to market, developing its flavours, integrated into a fine chain of tannin command. This reminds more of let’s say Bibianno’s Montornello than Lamole though it does have that Lamole acidity. Very composed, very directed, very serious. Full barrel advantage, phenolic ripeness, glycerin and tannin. In the big time. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted February 2018 lamoledilamole philippedandurandwines @LamoleDiLamole @lamolewines @Dandurandwines Lamole di Lamole Vins Philippe Dandurand

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG 1993, Tuscany, Italy, (Winery, WineAlign)

In quite good standing, this ’93 has held up beautifully and was Andrea Daldin’s first vintage. The wild strawberry and balasmico are now combining in fine secondary character. The Lamole acidity is fading but hanging in while tannins are long gone. Changes to fade in dappled light tones after minutes in the glass while always remaining a brilliant claret. Still a solid salumi wine, in mimic and support. A pleasure to taste from a terrific, storied and meticulously sheltered, worked and kept Lamole terroir. Shades of stone are everywhere; from Macigno to Alberese, Albarese with Calcium Carbonate and Galestro. Returns for a little bite of toffee and sip of coffee, before riding off into the sunset Drink 2018. Tasted February 2018 lamoledilamole philippedandurandwines @LamoleDiLamole @lamolewines @Dandurandwines Lamole di Lamole Vins Philippe Dandurand

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Nonloso 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Nonloso is a new label for Jurji Fiore with his daughter from a one point eight hectare vineyard across the valley on the Lamole hill, from 25-year old terraced sangiovese (mostly) and this may just be the most elegant sangiovese you are ever likely to taste. If the comparison is even possible it might be said that this sangiovese is made in a Côtes de Nuits style, in one 500L old and one new 228L barrel. The fruit comes from altitude up at 500m, same sandy soil as Ruffoli but less Arenaria stone in Lamole. The biggest difference is the water, in Lamole you drive up through forest while in Ruffoli you climb through rock up to the moon. Perfumed like Volnay and with distinct bright acids but unmistakable as Lamole, perhaps just a hill, valley or river bend away from so many other Greve terroirs but so singular. Very special parochial piece of the territory right here for a Chianti Classico that along with Fontodi begins to tell a sub-zone within a commune story. I don’t know. Seems pretty clear to me. Drink 2019-2029. Tasted February 2018 Podere Poggio Scalette profilewinegroup #PoggioScalette @ProfileWineGrp Podere Poggio Scalette Profile Wine Group

Montefioralle

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Perhaps this vintage is necessary to gain an understanding of Montefioralle or perhaps it was always there and a connection just needed to be found. The inhalant of elemental abstraction is remarkable and singular so let us open the discussion about the interest and in fact the necessity for Montefioralle. Just gorgeous from a fruit perspective, dusty and rising in tone with breaches considered and levels touched but never crossed. The risks are many with the rewards justified, palpable and great potential comes as a result. Check out Montefioralle. This tells you why. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 montefioralle Castello Di Montefioralle #montefioralle Montefioralle Winery

Montefioralle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2014, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Montefioralle is a deeply felt sensation of sangiovese preservation bringing everything that is Montefioralle within Greve with power and grace. Such fruit wealth is remarkable for 2014, distinct from its geological birthing and powerful to the end. Oh how this celebrates a zone within a zone. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 montefioralle Castello Di Montefioralle #montefioralle Montefioralle Winery

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $30.25, WineAlign)

From the sub-zone of Montefioralle this very ready and welling fruit is willing to please, if not at this very moment then just around the corner, where spring lies in wait. Here is yet another quick and painless example of that ’15 acidity, ripe and burgeoning. This will develop its charm by late 2018 and deliver copacetic Greve in Chianti sangiovese for a good two to three year run. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 verrazzanopeople @StaffVerrazzano @Smallwinemakers Castello di Verrazzano The Small Winemakers Collection

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $43.95, WineAlign)

Calcinaia’s is firm and direct, drawn from the Greve rise above and west of the river to mark a Montefioralle concern off of its southeastern quadrant. If ever a Greve Riserva continues the stylistic and prevalent hematic ooze of its Annata predecessor this would be the one. Torbido and seminal stuff from Sebastiani Capponi. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted February 2018 @villacalcinaia @Nicholaspearce_ villacalcinaia nicholaspearcewines @calcinaia Nicholas Pearce

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Contessa Luisa and Monty Waldin

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2014, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Vigna Contessa Luisa was planted by Ferrante Capponi in 1959, dedicated to his mother Luisa Vonwiller and it is the oldest vineyard still in production at Villa Calcinaia. It’s also responsible for Sebastiano Capponi’s newest Calcinaia Gran Selezione and it is not surprisingly the most elegant of the three (along with La Fornace and Bastignano). The most poignant and concentrated liqueur but also because it comes to market a year after the other two, so it has had a chance to settle and shed its cracked outer earthy layer. Now spicy and taut still it’s got so much wonderful fruit, dark, stormy, spicy and long. It’s almost ghostly. Will live in infamy. Drink 2021-2031. Tasted February 2018 @villacalcinaia @Nicholaspearce_ villacalcinaia nicholaspearcewines @calcinaia Nicholas Pearce

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (283580, $19.25, WineAlign)

A high-toned Monetfioralle affair in 2015 from Viticcio brings very bright red Greve in Chianti fruit and a zing of zesty acidity. This may not be as warm as some ‘15s, which in its singular way is a good thing but there is no compromise to classicism and intensity. You must appreciate the waves of rusticity and tradition but also the high acid style in the face of a vintage that wants to talk about other things. Stands out for this but also for its use of barrel, at least in this early woody stage. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 viticciowinery majesticwinesinc @viticciowinery @MajesticWineInc Viticcio Winery Majestic Wine Cellars

JSz in the February #concadoro

Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (933317, $36.95, WineAlign)

If balance were the ultimate end to all sangiovese means then one nose into this Annata 2015 tells us most of what we need to know. When Giovanni Manetti talks of 2015’s great acidity we may not have been able to inuit or ultimately know what he meant, at least as far as the peer into the collective lens of other wines. Through Manetti’s Panzano focus we now understand. The integration, inclusion and open-armed grande abbraccio of Fontodi’s 2015 talks of fineness, precision, elegance and soft-spoken power. There is the finest of sangiovese dust and the circling of tannic wagons enveloping optimized fruit and bringing the entire family in this wine together. It’s a great vintage for Fontodi. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 #Fontodi rogersandcompanywines #fontodi @rogcowines Az. Agr. Fontodi #fontodi

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2015 SoloSangiovese, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $19.95, WineAlign)

It’s a statement to be sure, adding the moniker of “SoloSangiovese” to the label of a Chianti Classico. It’s not just a matter of making comment with regards to varietal purity but the way in which Il Molino di Grace skirts party lines with an explicit display of the grape variety, just a shade smaller then the territory on the bottle. We may be expected to know what comprises (or should be inside) a Chianti Classico but how many really do? So here we are, where we’ve never been before, but have always been. Same deep and intense cimmerian Molino hue, big barrel spice and pure sangiovese grace. There is a connected energy that pulses, to the rest of the portfolio, with or without merlot and found here in a cleanest of Annatas, through clarity and with focus. Solo and proud, wrapped in the varietal flag. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 ilmolinodigrace @Ilmolinodigrace Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $24.95, WineAlign)

You should know that the Chianti Classico of Il Molino di Grace are always deep, dark as night sangiovese but they begin as juice so beautifully opaque red that the transformations are always a thing of great wizardry. It’s more than the barrels, the Slavonian slumbers and the effect of wood. It’s the Galestro soil, parochial Panzano and it is, as mentioned, pure magic. This 2015 Riserva is huge, a wine to launch a thousand ships and faces. I am afraid of and mesmerized by the power. Fortunately this vintage gifts more fruit than many and so the ambition is tempered with juicy restraint and integration. This is ultimately where balance is found despite such high acidity and pitchy macchiò, buio offuscato or oscurità. We’ll see where this lands in a few years time. The plan is to wake up, nose the Galestro and go on with the day. Drink 2020-2028. Tasted February 2018 ilmolinodigrace @Ilmolinodigrace Il Molino di Grace

Il Palagio di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Very ripe, rich and deeply felt Annata, pressed for the here, now and yet not forever. Very rich and to be enjoyed in the present tense. Consumers can get a sense of vintage but more to the point, drink this with a steak today. Drink 2018-2019. Tasted February 2018 @palagiodipanzano palagiopanzano

Le Fonti di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (282848, $31.95, WineAlign)

Le Fonti is the life work of Vicky Schmitt-Vitali, organic, sustainable and Europe’s first Bio-Distretto di Viticultura, leading their Panzano-Greve community in the charge of “attractive territories for a sustainable world.” Her 2015 Chianti Classico was bottled in September of 2017 so it has had time to settle in. This is where sangiovese captures the warmth and relative ease of a vintage, like bottling sun, gravel, schist, limestone, sand and clay for better days ahead. Sangiovese may be young and restless but here in its unadulterated state it renders spice and extends a hand with a firm shake for mutual accord. At some point next year it will bloom with perfume and then prepare to smell the Galestro, along with the flowers, for several more after that. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 poderelefonti thevineagency @LeFontiPanzano @TheVine_RobGroh Fattoria Le Fonti – Panzano @thevineto

Le Fonti di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2014, Tuscany, Italy (282921, $44.95, WineAlign)

From the village of Panzano set in an amphitheatre in a southern nook of Greve, this 2014 is lithe, whimsical and understated for Riserva. Cinnamon spice and roses just picked, fresh and fragrant emit an elegant perfume for sangiovese, challenged by a vintage that asked alot from these producers. It’s a bit closed down, more than the average vintage and according to Vicky Schmitt-Vitali this is to be expected. It’s also sangiovese which plays hard to get at the best of times so be prepared to aerate and act with the same light-hearted patience. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 poderelefonti thevineagency @LeFontiPanzano @TheVine_RobGroh Fattoria Le Fonti – Panzano @thevineto

Le Fonti di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012, Tuscany, Italy (282921, WineAlign)

Time has had an impact on the development of texture and this Panzano Riserva is now a rich, viscous and dense liqueur. It’s just amazing when you consider how it’s a child from the freeze-dried soil out of the vintage where winter saw so much wind and snow. Then came a dry heat like no other so as with all vintages there could really be no idea what might happen and like every other one, the challenge was new again. There is more than the usual spice in 2012 to augment the richness and the intensity of the fruit. Perhaps it’s atypical but at five and a half years of age this sangiovese is coming around very nice. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 poderelefonti thevineagency @LeFontiPanzano @TheVine_RobGroh Fattoria Le Fonti – Panzano @thevineto

Panzanello Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Panzanello’s sangiovese is augmented with a small amount of merlot. Lots of pressing, bringing out oozing fruit, plenty of early acidity and dusty tannin all combining for a quick entry into the 2015 vintage. It’s all here, right here, right now, in an already fully committed Panzano CC, with drying fruit and an herbal, arid finish. Drink 2018-2019. Tasted February 2018 panzanello_1427 @Panzanello @Panzanello1427

Jurji Fiore of #PoggioScalette on the top of the #rufoli hill in #greveinchianti one of the great cru of #chianticlassico

Ruffoli

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Alta Valle delle Greve is one of Chianti Classico’s highest vineyard sites in Greve on a perch at the top of the Ruffoli hill. Poggio Scalette’s is fermented in concrete, in part because all the sangiovese comes in together and the decision for what to use for Il Carbonaione is not made until later on. Then the Chianti Classico is separated and works further with the concrete, maintaining the highest level of fresh fruit character. Pure sangiovese from younger vineyards, this is so direct, of pure acidity that alights the fruit and delivers honest, unadulterated delight. Last tasted February 2018

The seventh vintage for the cement-aged Annata is a firm one, especially for 2015, of quick aromatic demand, already thinking ahead, not necessarily for the here and now. Like the other sangiovese (di Lamole) from decent Greve in Chianti altitude (450m) also delivers some hillside (mountain-ish) herbs and fennel, with chicory too. To the palate comes a char on cinghiale roasting over the fire. Top quality acidity rounds out this traditional, fiery red sangiovese with grip and persistence. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2017 Podere Poggio Scalette profilewinegroup #PoggioScalette @ProfileWineGrp Podere Poggio Scalette Profile Wine Group

Chianti Classico Collection 2018

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (728816, $30.25, WineAlign)

Digging deeper, or in this case higher as fruit from this eastern section of Greve comes in part from vineyards up on the Ruffoli hill. For 2014 winemaker Manfred Ing pointed out how they used a lot less Radda fruit in the mix due to pest problems and so much of that fruit was dropped. This 2015 is a different story, of Ruffoli meets Radda for a regional Annata, a true territorial Chianti Classico. The hill’s spice and high tonality weaves into Radda’s depth and richness is the quotient, even for a ’15 but not unusual for a Querciabella. It’s a fourth in a row (100 per cent) varietal wine, a sangiovese gelée if you will and really pure. The most purity, with back bite spice but rendered and creatively displaced. Impeccable farming, meticulous sorting and precise winemaking add up to the cleanest of Chianti Classico. I’ll have my sangiovese neat, thank you very much. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 querciabella grape_brands @Querciabella @querciabella

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2014, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

This young and impressionable Riserva has been a year in bottle and with more (to mostly) Ruffoli fruit than normal it can’t help but speak a very specific language. Ad with the Annata from the same vintage there were problems with the Radda fruit and so the near-solo journey means less rounded edges and higher tones. The best fruit came from Greve, followed by Radda and then Gaiole. What you notice from this ’14 is its depth of beautiful cherry liqueur with earth tones and musky leather. The acidity is the constant, so very Ruffoli and the tannins are surprisingly sweet. Should all come together in another year or so. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 querciabella grape_brands @Querciabella @querciabella

Poggibonsi

Tenuta Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Cinciano is 100 sangiovese from chalky Poggibonsi vineyards at 250-350m of elevation. Youthfully speaking this ’16 sits en retard, reductive and only seems to want to breathe as a deep inhalant of argilo sangiovese. This CC is an even bigger than the average, broader and scope encompassing expression to taste with an impressive ferric intensity. The potential is great. Drink 2019-2021. Tasted February 2018 fattoriacinciano @InfoCinciano @fattoriadicinciano

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $23.95, WineAlign)

If you are looking for a flat-out juicy, chewy and full-flavoured example of Chianti Classico with unbridled 2015 warmth then look no further. SFC’s Poggibonsi annata delivers drinkable fantasy in sangiovese and that is all there is to that. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 sanfabianocalcinaiasrl gsoleil123 @SanFabiano @GroupeSoleilTO Società Agricola “San Fabiano Calcinaia” Groupe Soleil Fine Wines

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (704346, $29.95, WineAlign)

Chianti Classico 2016 is composed of 80 per cent sangiovese, (15) canaiolo and (5) syrah, which since the 1980s has always held a spot, in fact it may have been as much as 10 two plus decades ago. Paolo de Marchi explains.”Syrah in my opinion, was really about thinking, about blending in an earlier ripening variety.” It also added colour, not for quality necessarily, but for pleasure. “If I were a consultant I don’t think I would recommend to plant it anymore.” But Paolo loves it, its bright acidity and lower pH, and loves the warmth. You can feel the liquid peppery hug from the combination of canaiolo and syrah in the constitution of this CC and now a new texture evolved from a traditional one, clearly passed on through generations. It is spoken in the clarity of this 2016, but it has taken decades to arrive here. Finessed, soft tannins and an effulgent acidity wrap fruit chewy and yet very crisp. Singular again and alone but quicker to please, at least for now. Perhaps it too will shut down in 2019. Perhaps not. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018.

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (704346, $29.95, WineAlign)

Paolo de Marchi’s Annata is not exactly the most typical ’15 because of its unabashed sapidity, still a bit reductive out of origins in freshness incarnate, with acids burgeoning and expanding in the mouth. Liquorice and carob flavours climb on top of the lingering smell of balsam wood. Full and expansive, intense and bigger than many though a right-proper texture it most certainly delivers. “This is only one-third of the potential of the vintage,” says Demarchi about how it is showing a year and a half in, now imploding and beginning to shut down. This seems to be the trend in Paolo’s wines, fresh and vibrant just when and after being bottled, then protective of themselves before turning into something beautiful once again. This will develop into a decades long lived Chianti Classico. Drink 2020-2033. Tasted February 2018 #isoleeolena @HalpernWine #isoleeolena halpernwine Isole e Olena @halpernwine

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

“Chianti is not a territory that gives minerality in wines. The low pH and high acidity are the factors that matter most. Here the back palate has bite, but it’s not salinity.” So says Paolo de Marchi as he introduces a series of Gran Selezione. In 2015 the difference between this GS and the Cepparello is not an enigmatic one, nor is it a mystery that de Marchi was not in favour of creating a new category. Still he foresaw and excepted the outcome, so decided to make something special. “In time, after me, it will be a single-vineyard.” Barrel selected from the Cepparello selection, this is not a 100 per cent sangiovese but rather something still in transit, even moving. So tight and tannic, fine-grained, with a new fineness of acidity, but just missing something. Like cabernet franc it is quipped, but no, it wouldn’t have worked anyway. So what then? Time, that is all. Drink 2020-2029. Tasted February 2018

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

When the Gran Selezione 2013 was in the conception stage there was “the search to integrate the experience of Super-Tuscan into the research of sangiovese.” The acidity is even higher in this ’13 than the same vintage Cepparello, because of 90 per cent sangiovese. Something textural is ganache oozing, connected to an espresso-noted and tobacco waft, followed by such spice. This is a moist intense expression of GS, likely needing 10 years to settle in. Long and exciting, plugged in and pulsating. Drink 2022-2032. Tasted February 2018

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2010, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Isole E Olena Gran Selezione 2010 graces a factor in which “the blend lifts up the quality,” a noble venture or undertaking that balances the angles and trips into light. The reductive one is, as per the firm and grippy vintage, tannic and taut, wound still in the present, with the carob and the savour. The minty one, in a way, and with graphite and creosote. Very sapid, tight and intense. The most brooding of the four (’15, ’13 this and ’06). Drink 2021-2030. Tasted February 2018

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2006, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Gran Selezione 2006 is the very first. “It is a wine I decided to make for the family, on the 50th anniversarry of my father buying the estate,” tells Paolo de Marchi. “Before Gran Selezione it was already a wine that was in my head. A wine that is the experience of a Super Tuscan with the experience and character of Chianti Classico.” It’s 80 per cent sangiovese with syrah and cabernet franc, plus a touch of merlot. Worked, re-adjusted, working for complexity. This was the first year of GS and even though it had already been bottled, it qualified because Paolo has made a special selection of barrels for a specific wine. It may just be the biggest of them all, a ground breaker, and it made great use of cabernet franc. Nothing if not big and bright, effulgent, massive and balanced. It’s still so fresh and alive. Drink 2018-2030. Tasted February 2018

Serious #sangiovese showing @chianticlassico Masterclass @agotoronto ~ #castellodigabbiano #castellodimonsanto #castellodialbola #carobbio #vallepicciola #querciabella #roccadicastagnoli

Radda in Chianti

Related – Get Radda for Chianti Classico

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

A variegation of soils prepositioned by slopes higher than many make the sangiovese from Radda in Chianti both unique and fascinating. Borgo La Stella invokes the dramatic use of Alberese and Macigno rock, sand and stone to rise up and tell a story of purposed cool climate Chianti Classico curiosity. The ’15 is amenable sangiovese with classic high scope, tonality, soil tang and acidity. The apex at which fruit and drama connect is both exciting and new. This house and its young vines are just getting started and 2015 is the meeting point to join the journey. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 borgolastella devonmasciangelo #BorgoLaStella Borgo la Stella Devon Masciangelo

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (519173, $24.95, WineAlign)

Brancaia’s tone is dialled high in these earliest of days, bright, effusive and expressive. Tart cherry fruit prescribed and duly described exactly as this is doted on by equal and uplifting acidity. You just feel like chewing on this glass of effulgent fruit, in rumination and for an easy route through the complacency of sangiovese digestion. That acidity is notable though it too is easy to assimilate and so upon return the fruit feels the same. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 brancaia_com noble_estates @CasaBrancaia @Noble_Estates @Brancaia @NobleEstates

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (260802, $36.95, WineAlign)

The vintage is the succulent one for Brancaia’s Riserva, an (80 per cent) sangiovese, (20) merlot Radda in Chianti beauty that saw 16 months in a combination of barriques and tonneaux. Here we feel the point where 2013 and 2014 intercede, propagate and deliver a child that is observed to grow up so fast. While so tart, it’s primary concern is to deliver pleasure with a substantive and toothsome payoff. The wood is still a bit heavy but necessary to carry the ecumenical fruit forward three to five years. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 brancaia_com noble_estates @CasaBrancaia @Noble_Estates @Brancaia @NobleEstates

Time travel through the generoso @volpaia back pages with Giovannella Stianti and Federica Mascheroni #coltassala #chianticlassico #1987 #1988 #1993 #1999 #castellodivolpaia

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (705335, $41.95, WineAlign)

The Riserva is now sourced from a different vineyard than the Annata, with the single vineyard now in delivery of the fruit for the Gran Selezione from 2015 moving forward. The nose here is firmly demanding, savoury, mentholated, with metal magic, creosote and graphite. Now 100 per cent sangiovese, this silky Riserva is frankly silly-stupid young and yet you just know it is a wine that has adjusted to a climate that was once something other and in fact the evolutionary adjustment in time won’t begin to happen for this ’15 until another two or three years. That will be followed by two or three more to ready the open window and offer an aromatic sense of the decomposing sandstone and lime in earth underfoot. Then two or three more for some real change to happen. Drink 2021-2027. Tasted February 2018 castellodivolpaia rogersandcompanywines @volpaia @rogcowines @volpaia Rogers & Company

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1987, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Chianti Classico Riserva 1987 is habituated and living life to the fullest in a state of complete and utter sound body and mind. It is sangiovese made at a time when it could it not have been known how impressive it would show 30 years later. Volpaia ’87 is from way back in the cold, pre-climate change days, the acid-washed, roaring 80s, now umami-earthy, cherry-plum fruit with some celery and a real salty-sandstone vein. Still blessed by a healthy, rhythmic pulse of acidity and finally, pure pleasure. Chalk it to bottle luck or a vintage that just had an inkling of greatness that would surely come but this is truly a special and memorable moment to taste. It needs saying with a thank you in words to Giovannella Stianti for sharing, but that will never be enough. Grazie infinite. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 castellodivolpaia rogersandcompanywines @volpaia @rogcowines @volpaia Rogers & Company

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltasalla 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Welcome to the new age for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione aging, meaning this is one to go longer, deeper, well into the Radda in Chianti night. In answer to the question of category content, Coltassala was a Riserva (labeled as IGT) until the ’14 vintage (and there is no ’14 GS), always with five per cent mammolo, from the plot co-planted at the end of the 1960s. Then the vineyard was grafted in the late 70s (before Coltassala was created) in the early 80s. “Coltasalla is a question of what was in this vineyard” notes Giovannella Stianti Mascheroni. Most interesting is how this Chianti Classico carries 10 times the acidity of the Annata and the Riserva, in great tension and demand, dominating and to be honest, is quite distracting. It’s nearly an impossible proposition of structure but from a night when a 1987 Riserva showed zero signs of decline, anything is to be believed. Coltasalla is truly a body of work to represent this 500m vineyard and Volpaia with the highest nobility. Drink 2022-2032. Tasted February 2018 castellodivolpaia rogersandcompanywines @volpaia @rogcowines @volpaia Rogers & Company

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione 2014, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $67.50, WineAlign)

Colle Bereto’s is a Radda in Chianti single-vineyard expression from La Vigna del Convento which lies at the foot of the former Il Convento di Radda, now Casa Chianti Classico. The Galestro soil is surely the catalyst for this 23 year-old block. There is no substitute for the acumen and the hard work that develops such a wise and mature Gran Selezione. Firm, no shortage of virility, fine acidity, finer tannin and exceptional length. Drink 2020-2030. Tasted February 2018 colleberetowinery #collebereto @NokhrinWines Azienda Agricola Colle Bereto Azienda Agricola Colle Bereto

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (383604, $19.95, WineAlign)

No other sangiovese yet and perhaps won’t again brings the smell of anise like Monterinaldi’s. Though this ’15 Annata is not the single-vineyard Boscone it truly is a Radda in Chianti terroir based wine. After the fennochio love-in the flavours turn to tart cherry and chalky soil. This is real savoury sangiovese, like chewing on soil, leaves and frutta di bosco. Traditional but not necessarily rustic, this is simply a matter of the earth. Drink 2019-2022. Tasted February 2018 #monterinaldi @monterinaldi C & E Worldfinds @monterinaldi

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

The single-block expression from Vigneto Boscone is really quite different from the fennel uncanny purposed Monterinaldi Annata, here with sweeter scented and less savoury, brushy and bushy fruit. This is a much broader brushstroke of sangiovese, or rather a swath of fruit, rich, layered and developed. The herbal, amaro component is there but clearly secondary to the fruit. This is very composed, clearly arranged and doted upon Chianti Classico with a lot of purpose. The palate is chewy and persistent. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 #monterinaldi @monterinaldi C & E Worldfinds @monterinaldi

Istine Chianti Classico Docg Vigna Cavarchione 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Angela Fronti produces three single-vineyard Chianti Classico, this being the one from Vertine in Gaiole. She began vinifying her three parcels separately in 2012 but also makes a general Annata and a Riserva that combines the three. The real passion comes through in these single expressions and Cavarchione might just be the the most impressive, at least in this vintage, even if it happens to be the outlier so far from the Istine estate. Precocious wisdom born of age-old dispensation is what drives this sangiovese, just as it does in the Vigna Istine (between Radda and Castellina) and the Vigna Casanova dell’Aia (near Radda). Cavarchione shows deep wisdom, perfect impression and with an eye looking forward for a terroir reveal. It’s an intensely calm sangiovese and while this is not as immediately drinkable as the Annata ‘normale’ it is not far from warming up and bringing the heat. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 istine_raddainchianti angela_fronti #istine @angelafronti Istine Angela Fronti

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (SAQ 878777, $25.95, WineAlign)

This next Annata from Radda in Chianti is impressive for its delivered impression of simulated Riserva quality and with a bit of reserve on the nose. Poggerino’s stands apart in this respect. There are many layers in the variegated red fruit, at times really dusty and often liquified of a chalky strength. It is this presence that says all the best fruit is right here. It will be very interesting to taste the Riserva Bugialla to compare, contrast and quite likely re-think. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 fattoriapoggerino vins.balthazard #poggerino @vinsbalthazard @poggerino @VinsBalthazard

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Bugialla 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $45.00, WineAlign)

Now the interest in the Poggerino house and the quest for Bugialla gains momentum in a Riserva that picks up right where the Annata left off and somehow manages to raise the essence of sweet perfume and beautiful liqueur. The elevation is in a hyperbole of fineness, from fruit, by acidity and in developing notable structure. Bugialla out of Radda in Chianti is just a velvety, sumptuous, viscous and elegant Riserva. Amazing nobility, gentle touch and restrained power. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted February 2018 fattoriapoggerino vins.balthazard #poggerino @vinsbalthazard @poggerino @VinsBalthazard

Vignavecchia Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Sometimes there comes along a sangiovese of seriousness and classic nature to explain some things, particularly about the commune and the ground underfoot. Vignavecchia’s is such a Radda in Chianti animal, rooted in mineral traced earth, fruit seeping in its own bled liqueur and the chains of acidity and tannin strung together with inexplicable seamlessness. The fine exquisite character of this sangiovese is a testament to honesty, purity and clarity. This house just travels from strength to strength, with no break in the accord. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 vignavecchiafattoria #Vignavecchia @VignaVecchia

Vignavecchia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Odoardo Beccari 2014, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, WineAlign)

Vignavecchia’s Odoardo Beccari is the obstinate one showing the first major number of reduction or at least it acts this way relative to nine other examples. Perhaps an opinion is skewed by having been in awe of recent examples or maybe its just a hunch or a feeling but this is stylistically found to be closer to Riserva and further from Gran Selezione. That is said in the most positive way. Still the soil is everything and the fruit abides. Crazy tannin here overtop serious acidity. Remains six years away, at least, from opening to charm and enjoyment. The structure is founded in deep classicism. Just remarkable sangiovese. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted February 2018 vignavecchiafattoria #Vignavecchia @VignaVecchia

San Casciano in Val di Pesa

Mercatale Val di Pesa

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (512384, $42.95, WineAlign)

Antinori’s is a deep and satisfying Riserva with dark fruit taken from Mercatale Val di Pesa vineyards at the estate’s Tenuta Tignanello. It’s very juicy and forthright, readier than many though the acidity is quite strong. This is heavily influenced by wood spice and there is no turning away from its spikes and charms. Quite dark and intense, no doubt due to the vineyard location between the Greve and Pesa river valleys and between the two villages of Montefiridolfi and Santa Maria a Macerata. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 marchesiantinori halpernwine @AntinoriFamily @HalpernWine @MarchesiAntinori @halpernwine

Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (219808, $19.10, WineAlign)

Castello di Gabbiano’s Chianti Clsssico may repeat itself and act the obvious one, but once again in 2016 it is full and ripe, filled in at every turn, deep, dark and handsome. The ability to deal in pleasure is immense from gathered quality fruit and as always this Annata finds the quickest line for us to appreciate the unwavering sense of equilibrium. Simply put it is Gabbiano and winemaker Federico Cerelli who offer a quality guarantee at the most attractive price. Leaves no reason to doubt. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted February 2018 castellodigabbiano markanthonyon @castgabbiano @MarkAnthonyWine @castellogabbiano Ivano Reali (Castello Di Gabbiano) Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Baldéro the name might be a character reference from the 1858 Firenze published “Le Poesi Originali di Ippolito Pindemonte,” enemy to Arminio. As a wine this is sangiovese and a small addition of merlot from a plot of land straddling San Casciano and Mercatale in Val di Pesa. Technically belonging to the former, the appellative personality is ingrained, first as quite reductive sangiovese, especially for 2015. Baldéro is still locked tight, shut, door closed. Mountain tea and brushy herbs, rosemary and fennel are the most notable aromas so if not altitude it is the locality of smooth hills and moderate clay that must be the key players. The fruit behind the curtain seems dark and black cherry stormy but it’s not yet at the surface. Structure is the thing, time the factor. This may turn into one exceptional Chianti Classico. “Io tuo nemico?” Not this Baldéro. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 carusvini @carus_vini @Carusvini

Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, 189803, $19.95, WineAlign)

Cigliano’s is high-toned and potentially so lovely, with fruit that speaks as if to say “we the berries were picked at exactly the correct time, each and every one of us.” These berries have co-conspired, commingle and have coagulated into a terrific mess of multiplicity within one young and impressionable Chianti Classico through the specific geological lens of San Casciano in Val di Pesa. Great work here via the hands of Niccolò Montecchi. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted February 2018 Villa del Cigliano dbwineandspirits #cigliano @VilladelCigliano @dbwineandspirits

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Just a stone’s throw from Florence is where La Querce Seconda produces this 100 per cent organic sangiovese from San Casciano in Val di Pesa. There is something about the affinity between the commune and the 2015 vintage, connecting cooler sites with a beautifully warm and engaging season so that fruit moves from firm to fruity. This is of course a relative and generalized ideal but in the case of the LQS Annata it speaks clearly to the point. Talk about the passion, this is implosive, intense and structured Chianti Classico of sweet fruit meeting at chalky intercession. It’s amorous, modern and spicy. So open and ready with plenty of life ahead. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 laquerceseconda #laquerceseconda La Querce Seconda

La Sala Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

La Sala Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Much like the Annata the use of grande (45 hL) botti is key to structure but the Riserva also sees some time in third and fourth passage barriques, if only for a few months. This just smooths, cultures and adds some grace to some of the firmer sangiovese in not just San Casciano, but in all of Chianti Classico. Galestro makes a greater case in the Riserva so that the sapid-savoury streak will begin to come into emanation earlier but also because of the 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon picked from 45 year-old vines on Galestro soil. There is incredible purity in this CCR but also richness and presence. The perfume suggests Cassis, black cherry and black currant leaf but that youthful modernity will submit to the limestone before you can say Val di Pesa. Very polished and impressive wine. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted February 2018 cantinalasala @LaSalaVini @toohotrightnow La Sala Stefano Pirondi

Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $24.50, WineAlign)

While 2014 showed a winemaker’s ability to survive and ultimately thrive in spite of a great challenge and 2015 proved a different sort of sangiovese mettle, 2016 is more accented and accentuated. The tobacco mid-point on a crunchy mid-palate moves away from gelée and into gravelly pronouncements. Though only in bottle a few days you can’t help but feel the power, grit and structure from this youthful 2016. It’s so very primary and needs to be heard but I’ve asked for a rain-check, looking forward to a re-visit in late ’18 or early ’19. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 luianowine ale_luiano tre.amici.imports @LuiLuiano @treamiciwines Luiano® Alessandro Palombo Tre Amici Wines

Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $24.50, WineAlign)

As if a-ha moment notable as a San Casciano Val di Pesa reality, it’s hard to fathom such qualitative smooth consistency and parochial existence from sangiovese. That is what might be referred to as a 2015 epiphany in the soil, hands and mind of Alessandro Palombo. The place lifts his benevolent Chianti Classico into a form almost gelée in savoury consistency, insistent with resolve to please and evolve. It’s sangiovese candy without sweetness but is a matter of just desserts. It might be compared to a fresh picked tomato at optimum ripeness and flavour, leafy, herbal and rife with acidity. San Casciano acidity. Have you ever been faced with such a thing? It’s like the sun. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 luianowine ale_luiano tre.amici.imports @LuiLuiano @treamiciwines Luiano® Alessandro Palombo Tre Amici Wines

Poggiopiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Poggiopiano is the work of Stefano Bartoli out of San Casciano in Val di Pesa. Here a highly likeable, sweet scenting black raspberry hug of fruit with mild acidity and even milder tannin. Drink now, early and often sangiovese while the ones with the greater 2015 acidity take their time. Drink 2018-2019. Tasted February 2018 poggiopiano.galardi @PoggiopianoFI @FattoriadiPoggiopiano

Poggiopiano Chianti Classico DOCG Terre di Cresci 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Terre di Cresci’s more specific San Casciano in Val di Pesa terroir brings a broad waft of the same upfront dark fruit but with a more muted delivery and notable increase in acidity. Really full, savoury and satisfying Chianti Classico. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted February 2018 poggiopiano.galardi @PoggiopianoFI @FattoriadiPoggiopiano

Principe Corsini Chianti Classico DOCG Le Corti 2015, Tuscany, Italy (400861, $29.95, WineAlign)

Duccio Corsini’s sangiovese is the amenable one in the name of Villa Le Corti 2015, rich and fully developed, chalky and chewy as only San Casciano can be, There is extraction with a purpose towards a rendering of the most modern expression leading to great appeal. The fine-grain in the structure will help to lead this down an even and timely developing path. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2018 principecorsini artisanal_wine_imports @PrincipeCorsini @ArtWineGuru Principe Corsini Artisanal Wine Imports

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Il Classico some with lovely floral, spiced and released to sell character. Sometimes sangiovese just gets bright-eyed for the present Annata, here acting out ’15 with clarity and purity. Just a bit of earthy funk tempers the beauty, or doubles down on it, depending on your perspective. Nice touch from Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Drink 2018-2020. Tasted February 2018 @IlPoggiolino

Stay-tuned for the amphora and half-magnum story of @FattMontecchio with Francesca Semplici and Stefano di Blasi

Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

Montecchio’s new look is a curved Bordolese bottle that brings to mind a half magnum. Proprietor Riccardo Nuti’s ’15 is 90 per cent sangiovese with small additions of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and a touch of alicante. It’s soft and spicy, charming in texture and of a new sort of Annata tannin with thanks to amphora aging. The fruit is wrapped taut in a spinning wheel of acidity, round and blanketing. It does not so much rage against as circles around the machine and certainly gains our full attention. Good Chianti Classico will do that. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 fattoriamontecchio @FattMontecchio Fattoria Montecchio

Montecchio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

The 2013 vintage just gets better and better and I am a fan of estates showing off their Riservas at this four and a half year stage. The Montecchio half magnum, stubby bottle 2013 is 90 per cent sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon and alicante that spent 26 months in Grandi Botti of 25 hL. It may be a product of Tavernelle Val di Pesa but it’s savour is pure San Donato in Poggio. It is no wonder that owner Riccardo Nuti is the first President of the just recently formed L’Associazione di Viticoltori San Donato in Poggio. There is more richness and spice than your average Annata and with a Gran Selezione on the horizon this Riserva really works the room. It’s time is soon, perhaps even now. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 fattoriamontecchio @FattMontecchio Fattoria Montecchio

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Agent, $28.95, WineAlign)

Only San Poggio in Donato delves into this kind of specific calcaire, the Colombino in lieu of most other’s Galestro. The coolest of notes are broken down and fragmented in mimic of the soil and run like a river of savoury stone through stratified fruit. There is a perception of sweetness, imagined as perfectly ripe, low-lying fruit in early summer. But the sweetness is just a dream because with such a level of mineral, not salty but sapid, it is impression that supersedes expression. The young vines are growing up before our noses and eyes, lending impeccable balance in the here and now, with appreciable development laid out ahead. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018 #poderelacappella #poderelacappella Natascia Rossini

The view at 630m from Poggio di Guardia where Federico Cerelli and Stefano di Blasi tend their vines in #raddainchianti

Good to go!

Godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

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If you’re going to San Casciano

Feb5

Bistecca fiorentina, Villa Le Corti

Chianti Classico the region is both muse and magnet, its reservoir of territorial intrigue and sangiovese anthology infinite in possibility. By junket or by migration through its communes there is always a sense of awe and wonder, yet no matter how many times the roads, villages and vineyards are travelled there is always something new. This is the story of San Casciano in Val di Pesa.

Related – A river runs through Greve

San Casciano is one of nine sub-zones of Chianti Classico, also a hamlet, while the commune sits on the north-western border of the greater territory in Toscana. It shares only two sectional borders, with Tavarnelle Val di Pesa to the south and Greve in Chianti to the east and southeast. From the town’s centre to Piazza del Duomo in Firenze should take about half an hour, excluding summertime. The full name San Casciano in Val di Pesa tells us that it’s location is proximate to the valley of the Pesa river. My colleagues John Szabo M.S., Brad Royale, Steve Robinson and I paid a visit with an armful of San Casciano producers in September, 2017. Our host was the affable meets honourable Duccio Corsini of Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti. The take away from this visit was a sense of San Casciano’s inner voice and exclusive temperament but also how it fits into the puzzle that is Chianti Classico.

The word congeries comes from the Latin verb congerere, which means “to carry or bring together,” though it could also move through the Italian, palificazione, or piling. I’m not sure any sub-zone typifies this concept more than San Casciano, in part because the multiplicity of its sangiovese rivals or even exceeds many to most anywhere in the greater district. When you pile one on top of another in a tasting you feel the weight and the density but also the permutation and variegation. These are a collection of sangiovese hard to pin down even if this particular sample size is perhaps too small and so a sooner over later return for more will be crucial.

The Gallo Nero of Luiano

From San Casciano we expand outwards again to think on Chianti Classico the concept as based on the figuration that is the Gallo Nero, a symbol not only designed and enshrined to classify the wines raised from these multifarious soils but to ingrain something deeper, meaningful and soulful. The Gallo Nero stamps each bottle of sangiovese with a seal of amour-propre approval, for a conceit of quality, not out of outrecuidance but in recognition that the opinion of others does matter. San Casciano now sits in requiem of such avowal and validation.

Inside the Chianti Tower, San Casciano in Val di Pesa

Related – Because the night in Gaiole

Just as you’ve settled into the comfort zone of knowing your way around the landmarks of a place, the people take hold of your hand, put on a blindfold (not literally) and reveal a site that blows your mind. The Chianti Tower of San Casciano is an unusual spike of architecture, quirky and seemingly displaced, that is until you make the climb (by elevator) up to its observation deck. From up above there are vistas that take in the Florentine hills and Vallombrosa, the mountains of Pistoia, and Pisa. The panorama turns to the Chianti and Chianti Classico landscape, Siena’s hamlets and perhaps, on a really clear day, the Ligurian sea.

Related – Castellina in golden light

The 33 meters high cylindrical surge tank tower is part of the Museo di San Casciano in Val di Pesa, owned by the Comune and is characterized in form as suggestivo or evocativo. It’s post World War Two reconstruction continues its function as a storage water reservoir, but it is the panoramic terrace that steals the visitation show. Our group was joined by a gaggle of San Casciano winemakers to take in the immediate and extrapolated lands.

Related – Get Radda for Chianti Classico

Over these last few weeks I have published six articles on sub-zones and this seventh and final essay on San Casciano concludes the heavily scrutinizing reconnaissance mission. For now. By the time this week has come to its end I’ll be back in Chianti Classico for more, this time with the knowledge that everything I have thus far learned will be turned on its head, refreshed and begun anew. The goal is always deeper understanding but who am I to speak in absolutes. The journey has just begun. If you’re going to San Casciano you’re gonna meet some gentle people there. Here are my tasting notes on six examples from six wamhearted producers.

Niccolò Montecchi, Cigliano

Cigliano Chianti Classico 2014, DOCG Tuscany, Italy (Agent, 189803, $19.95, WineAlign)

Deep, dark and sombre inhalant of grand vineyard fruit in the premium selezione vein, this is indeed a sobering San Casciano in Val di Pesa Chianti Classico with wild berries, herbs and drops of fine liqueur, almost like Vin Santo but without sugar. Cigliano takes a certain road for 2014 and gets away with murder. This could have turned out hot and bothered but the balance is struck by chords of great acidity and tension. This pulls no sangiovese or vintage punches and is clearly the work of a rogue winemaker. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted February and September 2017 Villa del Cigliano #cigliano @VilladelCigliano

Stefano Pirondi, La Sala

La Sala Chianti Classico 2014, DOCG Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

La Sala from Stefano Pirondi carries 10 per cent merlot in address of the sangiovese with some green tannin integrated into the black cherry. From sites up at 300m, a mix of Alberese and deep clay but almost all red clay in 2014. Not a very ripe CC, only five hectares (20,000 bottles) were vinified. Half and half stainless and large French wood, very spicy and quite red citrus, but on the dark side. I would give it a year to soften. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted September 2017 cantinalasala @LaSalaVini La Sala

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico 2014, DOCG Tuscany, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

From vineyards quite close to Florence (8 kms) this 100 per cent sangiovese has been organic since 2001. It now seems ripe for 2014, into the depth of steeping cherries, a touch hollow up the middle, but deep, rich and actually quite easy to drink. Last tasted September 2017.

From the most northern Chianti Classico vineyard located in the area of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, La Querce Seconda by Niccoló Bernabei is high-spirited, of tart to volatile brightest of bright red fruit with toasted fennel to nose. Quite a tart palate as well with furthered spirit and quite sweet tannin. This is old school but alive and vital. Will live this kind of life for a spell. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted February 2017 #laquerceseconda @LaQuerceSeconda laquerceseconda

My triple-threat of @luiano terroir is right over there, in #sancasciano #alessandropalombo

Luiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2014, DOCG, Italy (Agent, $39.95, WineAlign)

Luiano’s Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 by Alessandro Palombo, is 95 per cent sangiovese with a touch of body-adding merlot. “For us Riserva has always been a cellar selection and a representation of Luiano’s three distinct sub-soils,” tells Palombo. This is a 2014 postcard in a nutshell, cool and deep, with some bretty and volatile nature though just a wonderful whisper. Done in bigger oak casks and recently bottled (well March of 2017), some cakiness is baked into the structure though filled in with binding mortar. It’s silky, supple and certainly a wine that will age into umami secondary character. Drink 2018-2024. Tasted September 2017 luianowine ale_luiano tre.amici.imports @LuiLuiano Luiano® Alessandro Palombo @treamiciimports

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino 2014, DOCG, Italy (Winery, WineAlign)

It’s a wise old story but the San Casciano 2014 from Massimo Becattelli is a beacon to reel us in towards a new Chianti Classico understanding. Named after his mother Mori this vino is very much alive, anything but memento mori, more like a reflection on immortality. The very small production is the work of a one man band with modest hands, only one hectare, planted by Massimo’s father 40 years ago. It has now been replanted with the clones of the old vineyard in June of 2015. This Annata is 80 per cent sangiovese, 12 canaiolo and eight colorino. There is soul, volatility, depth, intensity and finesse in what is a rustic but cultured ’14 with fruit and more fruit, but graced by this underlying Galestro feel. Only 287 bottles were made of Massimo’s “lavoro di passione.” Drink 2018-2022. Tasted September 2017 @az.agr.moriconcetta

Linguine con coniglio, Villa Le Corti

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Don Tommaso 2013, DOCG, Italy (Agent, $62.50, WineAlign)

Don Tommaso 2013 is named after Duccio Corsini’s father, was first made in 1994 and here contains 80 per cent sangiovese with 20 per cent merlot. The latter is meant for smoothing the angles, something that is also accomplished by aging in tonneaux and second passage barriques. Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini’s Gran Selezione is a very silky smooth, deep black raspberry fruit forward wine with high acidity and green savour running through. Not from a cru originally, just the right grapes but over time narrowed down to three vineyards. Chocolate oozes all over the finish. “I do what I do with what I have, adding people,” says Duccio. Sounds like the Chianti Classico equivalent of climat. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted September 2017 villalecorti artisanal_wine_imports @PrincipeCorsini Principe Corsini @artisanalwineimports

Bistecca fiorentina, Villa Le Corti

Good to Go!

Godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

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