As 2025 decelerated into its closing epilogue, time for reflection began commemorating 10 years of mutual friendship and respect in the ongoing relationship between Godello and Chianti Classico. Amazing to think of all that has happened since that first May 2016 arrival in Firenze and to mark the approaching 10th anniversary, there will be something special coming soon. A commitment in writing more lasting and permanent. In the meantime there are attestations to be shared from three more territorial experiences that took place back in February, September/October and November of 2025. New perceptions, further connections made and stronger bonds forged. There will be more to look forward to, especially with the wildly antithetical yet equally exciting 2024 and 2025 vintages waiting in casks, yet to be released, looming on the horizon. Three weeks from now there will be an anticipated first complete look at 2023 during the coming days of the 2026 Chianti Classico Collection.

In the Fall of 2025 Godello led a contingent of seven Canadian sommeliers through a five-day boot camp. Joining the ambasciatore were Vancouver’s Kelcie Jones from This is Wine School, Eva Hudson of Metrovino in Calgary, Christina Brown, Wine Director at Blue Bovine, María Inés Lou and Georgette Donnelly of Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment, all in Toronto, Montréal’s Jacky Blisson M.W. and another St. John’s legend, Leo (Captain Merlot) Hall of Portage Restaurant. Upon arrival in Florence on September 28th an extraordinary opening dinner took place at Trattoria l’Ortone.

September 29th was dedicated to San Casciano and Greve. First a Chianti Classico introduction masterclass by Godello at the Consorzio offices in Sambuca, followed by visits at Il Contadino Cusano – Poggio Torselli in San Casciano with Margherita Romagnoli and Cristina Bandini, The group moved on to Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini for a meeting with Federica Capaccioli, then over to Greve for a stop in at Vignamaggio with Leonardo Collotto and finally a Panzano rite of passage with Gianmaria Garbin at Enoteca Baldi.

September 30th took in the wilds of Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Vagliagli, first at Bertinga in Lecchi with Export Manager Elisa Francini and agronomist David Picci. Over to Castelnuovo Berardenga at Castello di Bossi to join Export Manager Cecilia Muzzi and Winemaker Stefano Marinari. A move over to Vagliagli to see Alessandra Casini at Bindi Sergardi. Then another Squadra Canadese rite of passage for aperitivo in Siena’s Piazza del Campo and dinner at Salefino.

October 1st was all about Radda, beginning at Casa Chianti Classico for a 90 strong tasting of the 2022 vintage in Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Then an official signing ceremony between the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec and the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. In the afternoon to Tenuta di Carleone for a breezy outdoor gather with Sean Il Guercio O’Callaghan and then off to Brancaia with Barbara Widmer for dinner at her fabulous Bar Brancaia in Castellina.

On October 2nd the squad’s program included Lamole and Panzano, starting early at Podere Poggio Scalette on the Ruffoli Hill with Alessandro Fiore. Next up was Villa Calcinaia in Montefioralle with Sebastiano and Neri Capponi, then off to Fontodi in Panzano with Giovanni, Margherita and Bernardo Manetti. In the evening a third rite of passage took place in the form of a pizza party with Michael Schmelzer and Jacy Farrell at Monte Bernardi.

October 3rd was dedicated to Castellina beginning with the young, brave and precocious Mattia Bucciarelli of Bucciarelli – Antico Podere Casanova. Then over to San Donato in Poggio at Podere La Cappella with Bruno and Natascia Rossini, followed by Il Poggiolino with Alberto and Martna Fabbri. La Squadra Canadese’s final dinner took place at Nicola and Irene Schirru’s incredible Enoteca Spontanea in Firenze.

In November Michaela Morris and Godello returned for a couple of intensive days, making visits at Nittardi in Castellina, Lamole di Lamole and Querciabella aboard Ruffoli in Greve. Godello continued with Tenuta Casenuove and Il Molino di Grace in Panzano, Radda’s Tenuta di Campomaggio and finally with a couple of Cecchi wines tasted in Montalcino. There was a great concentration on the 2022 vintage, hot and variable as it was throughout the territory. Like 2017 there were some surprises, in fact many more out of ’22 because of captured acidity and from what valuable lessons so many producers learned from that earlier vintage’s mistakes. Very few producers panicked by picking too early and so the end result of 2022 was great quality across the 11 UGAs. An important questions asked was why did Castellina and Gaiole fare so well in 2022? The answer, because of their sandstones, as with Lamole and Radda but also Panzano, to a Pietraforte extent.

Another year in the books and once again with great thanks to the producers and all at the Consorzio who contributed to the journey. President Giovanni Manetti, Director Carlotta Gori, Silvia Fiorentini, Christine Lechner, Caterina Mori, Laura Cavalleri, Simone Fabbrini and of course Enzo. This report does not include the wines tasted back in February of 2025, but only those tried in the Fall. There are 197 tasting notes ahead, broken down by appellation and UGA, finishing with a large number of IGTs.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2024

Panzano

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2024, Panzano

Campione: Lightest of vintages but truth be told the expectation was surely for something of less colour and intensity. No doubt you could drink this straight away but do not be wary of the potential, in a way like 2008. There are tannins in this wine and even a touch of austerity. Finishes at 12.8 percent alcohol so will therefore be labeled at 13. Will likely produce 60,000 bottles.  Tasted November 2025

Chianti Classico DOCG 2023

Gaiole

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Never mind the nine months in bottle because both tannin and barrel remain in charge, up front, central to the thematic and in complete control. Some 2023s are juicy and generous while others reside at the pinnacle of structure. That is the case in intensity of situation for San Giusto and so do not expect much alteration or movement until at least the Spring of 2027. Drink 2027-2034.  Last tasted November 2025

Campione: I mean of course its tight and yet to resolve but this sample by San Giusto shows more wealth of upfront fruit than could have been expected. Darker fruit than 2022 and also 2021, closer to 2020 but once again the individual character of modern vintages can’t be denied. Feels a bit serious at this very early stage but substance at this level will mean a wine that will be held in high regard.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

From 2023 the Chianti Classico is exactly what you would expect and wish for from…Chianti Classico. Medium weight, body, texture and tannic cargo with an extra bit of stuffing provided by a power surge of sangiovese acidity. The definition of classic Annata level for Monti, Gaiole and the region as a whole. Digs deep into tradition and heritage as a blend for which splashes of canaiolo and colorino fix colour, pH and intensity, elevating sangiovese to its rightful place as the centre of Tuscan attention. Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi’s ’23 is so correct and spot on you simply sip and say thank you. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted January 2026

Greve

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico  DOCG 2023, Greve

Latest to pick, usually in October and that will be the case in 2025. Jurji Fiore and his consultant of 64 years try to decide which are the bunches pushing the most fruit and they are put to steel for fermentation, followed by cement tanks for 10 months where the wine is truly protected from temperature fluctuations. Surprising or not there is more colour and a deep blood orange note to what is clearly a Ruffoli 2023 thing. Crunchy with lift, floral, a salty streak and definitive. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Lamole

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Maggiolo Blue Label 2023, Lamole

The vintage was a heavy challenge for so much of Tuscany and Chianti Classico wines because of Spring rains and the resulting downy mildew but Lamole fared better than most. Mainly because of winds and ventilation to help dry out vines and keep the Peronospora issue at bay. Thus quality and quantity are high with the rest of the season having been beneficial to grow and mature sangiovese. In fine perfumed for, abiding by the UGA’s calling card, aided and abetted by ripeness mixed with grip and mature acidity. Feels quite ready without any drying or austerity at the finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted November 2025

Panzano

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Panzano

Clean and swift sangiovese that has come around and about with the quiet and stoic confidence of the grapes and the makers. This from the strangest Perenospera (downy mildew) vintage when the virus hit the bunches straight away, and sometimes also the leaves at the same time. But this wine has left that behind, walks with intention and delivers a Panzano punch, as it should, in the modernists’ way of Il Molino di Grace.  Last tasted November 2025

Tasted as a Campione (sample) just five days ago and now the finished blend just bottled is in remarkably ready condition. As far as 2023 is concerned the combination of freshness and structure are about as connected as it gets. A Pietraforte meets Galestro mineral juiciness that bleeds terroir, Panzano and the purity of sangiovese. No reduction, nor volatility neither. An Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico cleans up really, really well. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Radda

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

No wood, only concrete and stainless steel, all about the grape. Coming upon eight months after the Anteprima and no change of course or direction of a truly straightforward sangiovese. Free and easy. Last tasted September 2025.

More fruit and developed substance than the average and also compared to recent Brancaia Annata. The 100 percent sangiovese child of a long, slow, gentle and cumulative maceration to result in the most modern and seductive Chianti Classico. A pour of Brancaia’s 2023 Annata will be the one to convince world markets just how far the territory has come in the last 10 years. Definitive for the current state of the Gallo Nero. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Things settle and most wines do grow up, which is exactly what this 2023 has already figured out, accomplished and now come together. Tannins are still stirringm showing their teeth and Raddese acidity sweetens the pot. Another year in bottle will do wonders for the eventuality and ultimate high-level Campomaggio Annata distinction.  Last tasted November 2025

Campione: A barrel sample and the question is whether or not this should have been pulled for assessment. Does the choice help or hinder the estate? The open fragrance and specific Radda località perfume in this case answers the question with an emphatic yes, though it still depends on the finish of the wine. Again there is generosity and length, an extension of ripeness in all aspects of the cuvée and so again, yes. The issue is awkwardness and a middle palate section that feels gangly but all living things grow up and mature, as will TdC’s 2023.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Casciano

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Unfortunately tropical late spring weather and May-June rains raised the hell of Perenospera to result in just 40 percent of production at 2.2 tonnes per hectare, instead of the usual 5.5. Then again the summer and harvest weather were perfect for a beautiful if rare 2023 Chianti Classico. The perfumes are extraordinary, the Balsamico of San Casciano so concentrated and sweetened. The tannins are really fine-grained on the road to silken and suave. When the structural elements melt and integrate those tannins will become a thing of exquisite nature. Next vintage of this special Annata takes Poggio Niccolini to the next level without any steps taken back through its first three vintages. Unfortunately only 2,300 bottles were produced. Drink 2028-2033.  Tasted September 2025

Campione: Truly primary and still quite a reductive element in charge of the wine. As with other 2023 samples there is not enough in the aromas to really set the tone but the palate delivers a luxe wealth of fruit and texture. Acids are running high, mighty and amok while the overall structure seems poised to see this Annata get set for a long and fruitful run.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Immediately juicier and inviting as compared to the austerity of 2022, not only a marked improvement but also of a temperament much like a good friend always there to brighten up a day. Still some crunchy herbs which indicates the San Casciano location and what it means for sangiovese. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted November 2025

San Donato in Poggio

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato in Poggio

Great fortune in 2023 meant the vineyards somehow escaped Peronospora save for some of the merlot, but the sangiovese was fine. The stony soils allowed for tractor passes for spraying at exactly the right time. The sangiovese receives 10 percent merlot and ages in older barriques, never new or older than three years. Mature and developed red fruit delves into plum territory with a white peppery seasoning, spiced and boozy. Thanks to the plush fruit and sweet acidity it all finds balance. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2023, San Donato in Poggio

Only concrete, no wood, for proverbial freshness and juicy, juicy drinkability. Some maturity and a tight gamay-like lithe style without strings, adornment or distraction. Drink early and often. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Castellina

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

There is some grip and heft on this Castellina Annata though it comes from fruit, terroir and climate more than anything else. Alcohol is moderate at 14 percent and there is just something about some Alberello-grown sangiovese that delivers this level of concentration without feeling pressed or over-wrought. Big and balanced, focused and pure. All parts are where they should be.  Last tasted October 2025

A grand mix of aromas, in part from the surround of forest and the other a vineyard exposition at elevation and open to the elements. A lightning strike of sangiovese as bright and intense as any you will find in the whole of the territory but that is the crux of this Castellina situation. Intensity thy name is Castagnoli.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Belcanto 2022, Castellina

A mix of the three vineyards blocks, at Nittardi with Villa Rosa in southwestern Castellina and a smaller portion in San Donato in Poggio. Just two or three percent are canaiolo, colorino, ciliegiolo and mammolo, all co-fermented with the sangiovese. Brings 40-45 years of older vines’ experience to the overall profile of a Chianti Classico sturdy yet relaxed, firm while elastic. The winemaking is all about early extraction followed by the development of alcohol in fermentation and finally a rest to allow everything to come together. Dark fruit vintage, plummy and with good grip. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted November 2025

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Casanova di Nittardi Vigna Doghessa 2022, Castellina

Single vineyard sangiovese from the highest elevation Castellina vineyard on the Nittardi estate. Vines face south by southeast with a view north towards the Conca d’Oro, Panzano, La Piazza and the neighbouring estates of Bucciarelli and Buondonno. One of the freshest Chianti Classico you will put your nose into, much more so than Belcanto and something tells us in the near future this just may signal a return of a Riserva sku. Right now there are the two Classico and the Gran Selezione produced. Crunchy and savoury sangiovese, sharp and pointed, finessed and speaking directly from the vineyard. Or so it feels, and seems. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted November 2025

Poderi Melini Chianti Classico DOCG Granaio 2022, Castellina

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Now more than 10 years a solo sangiovese, only stainless steel for 18 months and 10-12 more in bottle before release. A pure expression of Castelnuovo Berardenga, southern style with major fruit and an herbal meets macchia spiciness. Sandy clay and down into the lower depths of the vineyard with some tufo, limestone, also river stones but always the Galestro. Neither tight nor loose but just right there where the twain is met with a sweetness of acidity and tannin.  Last tasted September 2025

A clear reflection of the house style and the coolest, smoothest and silkiest iteration of Castelnuovo Beradenga. Elevation helps, as does riposte fruit caught at ideal maturity, but also the hands of knowledge, calm demeanour and experience. Bossi’s is such a well-judged, layered and syncopated sangiovese, Bio and proper, come to the world with great effect. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico DOCG Tenute 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Soft palate texture juxtaposed opposite high acidity and skeletal body from a tuffaceous soil found only in some specific pockets, namely in lower Castelnuovo Berardenga/Gaiole. Such a specific Chianti Classico, tightly wound while generous of mouthfeel. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Gaiole

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG Le Porte di Vertine 2022, Gaiole

The vineyard next to the door open into the Borgo of Vertine, of three hectares at 500m made with only sangiovese. No oak, just sun, elevation and varietal acidity accentuating the freshness of primary flavours. A rocky site with Galestro manifestation for a fruit froward expression that piques and pops from the palate. Crunchy sangiovese, salty streak, straight shooter, ready for all.  Last tasted September 2025

The door to “Vertine,” a località within Gaiole that Luca Vitiello and his Bertinga team have chosen to exult, explain and present to the world. Their’s brings more fruit and modern styling to Gaiole and in turn to the whole that is Chianti Classico. A ready for drinking, juicy and openly generous, 100 percent sangiovese for every reason to believe. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Borratella Chianti Classico DOCG Insuella 2022, Gaiole

More upfront fruit with warmth cooled by a minty streak and Radda gariga does well to add a forest complexity to sangiovese. There are splashes of cabernet sauvignon for added herbal spice to complete the greenery and accentuate the Raddese-ness of a classic, raised only in steel expression. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted October 2025

I Sodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Dusty, lifted, high Balsamico savour and rising with an extra drop of volatile acidity, Stays within reach and scope though fruit is secondary and time will have a converse effect. Just a pinch of residual sugar does in fact create some balance. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted October 2025

Tenuta San Vincenti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

More strength and grip, not to mention warmth due to vintage as compared to previous vintages of this 85 percent sangiovese. The 15 percent merlot seems to have a greater mitigating effect as a result. A blend of vineyard elevation and blocks makes for a layered expression for a step up and forward from functional to professional. Small production and surely worthy of attention. Drink 2025-2029 . Tasted October 2025

Greve

Fattoria Santo Stefano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Sandy soils to be sure for some grace in the face of wealth through ample fruit quality so generous and deliverable. Solo sangiovese with grip and tannins that seem to be resolving quite quickly. Drink sooner rather than later. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted October 2025

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

The rare inclusion of canina nera (if just a few drops) comes together well with canaiolo and 95 percent sangiovese from east bank Greve where the clays and sands alternate for distinct local savour. One of those Chianti Classico that rises up at a 45 degree angle adjacent both sides of the palate, returns again and repeats the process. Who would not appreciate that feeling to come back and allow it to happen again. And again. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Podere Campriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Grace in Chianti Classico, perfumed with an exquisite expressiveness mixed with sweet volatility. Not quite finocchiona but definitely a salsiccia studded with fennel and herbs cooked into homemade pici kind of 100 percent sangiovese Chianti Classico. Super wine. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted October 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

The 2022 is the current market release for Querciabella’s Annata, a “Chianti Classico panoramic,” are the words of the Roberto Lasorte, of minds and hearts that have been a part of the estate fabric seemingly since creation. Every bit of warmth, ripeness, blending acumen, mixology of sangiovese parts and finessed ability are there. The wine comes together and nothing will break it apart, not now or potentially ten years away.  Last tasted November 2025

Now here is a 2022 that shows us the greatness of the finest agricultural work, followed by studious attention in the cellar. Adds up to am Annata that truly abides by what the last 10 years have all been about. There is a balance and flow to this 100 percent Ruffoli sangiovese that some ‘22s struggle to find. Fruit first and foremost but then this proper mix of acidity and tannin, neither demanding more than the other and both supportive. So well managed and executed Annata, nearly ready to drink. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Terre Di Melazzano Chianti Classico DOCG Chi André 2022, Greve

Knowable and understood as modern Chianti Classico with elasticity and flow as opposed to leather and earth. Still there is some grip and immobility in these tannins while the wine comes through in two separate parts. Unity may come with time. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Torraccia Di Presura Chianti Classico DOCG Il Tarocco 2022, Greve

Evergreen scented straight from the top to denote a northerly Greve position where warmer climate sees the pines and coniferous bushes grow. That is the savour of that part of the land and the terroir can’t be removed from the wine. Clay in the soil keeps the humidity and for a wine with drying tannins, ripeness is the foil for a Chianti Classico driven by place. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Terre Di Prenzano 2022, Greve

Named for the soil of Prenzano, first vineyard planted in the area behind the villa on the route up through the Lamole hills. Only big (20 hL) French cask with less than zero impact on the wines. Sounds like something absurd to say but there is great truth in how the large vessels are houses and not drivers. The sources for Prenzano are multifold and the result is one of this territory’s most well-rounded sangiovese that speaks in a clear, present and accountable vernacular. That said a balmy vintage makes for a wine of warmth and interesting to note that Annata is pure sangiovese while Riserva holds 10-20 percent merlot. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Montefioralle

Conti Capponi – Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Loamy with Alberese grip and warmth from a season of unavoidable truth to gift darker fruit. Namely sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo to level out the balance between pH and acidity for harmony and elasticity. Feels like success out of a challenge presented.  Last tasted October 2025

The current vintage for the winery and cellar built circa 1763 by Ferdinand Capponi is undeniably aromatic in the ways of this estate’s consistent Chianti Classico Annata from the west bank above the Greve River. A mix of humid concrete, herbal brush, Amaro and nut toasty warmth. Shakes of silty salt and white pepper for a seasoned Annata grown, raised and bottled for all the good reasons. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

The tannins are yet to release, despite the lesser aging time for 2022 and the wine remains in a time of extreme youth. Waiting another year (at the very least) would be the prudent way to approach it. There will be 200 cases released through VINTAGES in Ontario sometime in the fall of 2026.  Last tasted September 2025

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

A reminder that Dino is the sangiovese aged in amphora, separated from the skins just before Christmas, therefore two to three months depending on harvest date. Dino needs to breath and release any musky moments it may own by being in bottle as a wine with low pH and high acid protected against oxidation. After 10 minutes the change begins and with 20 the energy release comes clean. Dino is ready and worthy of what lays ahead.  Last tasted September 2025

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2022, Panzano

“We were really surprised by this wine,” from the parcel purchased in 2018 with the idea of increasing the Retromarcia production. The first year impressed Michael and by the second year it showed enough stuffing and promise to be its own wine. Bright lights, wild-eyed sangiovese with big heart, full intensity and scintillant acidity. Right where it needs to be, right now.  Last tasted September 2025

The unmistakable touch and feel of a Monte Bernardi sangiovese here from 2022, up in the air where rare and vacuous receive the fruit of a most passionate and discerning labour. Sangio is Annata born in the fields and nowhere but, cumulate of proper but also determined decisions to make full use of every grape available. Once in the cantina it fends for itself because it is equipped to do so and yes this is the most natural of wines in the way you would ask for it to be. Acids are elastic but will become even more so as the sangiovese stretches, fleshes and finishes its “giretto.”  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted again, February 2024

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle.  Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2022, Panzano

MB1933 is coming from the 1933 planted vineyard in the same site as Sangió, tiny and housing 10 grape varieties. Connected to Marcello Bartolini, grandson of the man who planted the vineyard and because the same family has held its title, there is continuity until today. No wine had been made since the 1970s and Michael Schmelzer decided to dedicate the wine in his name. Could there be some varieties involved that should not classify as allowable in Chianti Classico? Does it matter and does anyone really care? Just taste it. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted September 2025

Radda

Castelvecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Capotondo 2022, Radda

Expressive and effusive perfume from 88 percent sangiovese with (12) canaiolo for a dry as the desert Chianti Classico come from the land. A mix of sand and lime with stones bled through the glycerol fabric of the wine. A successful 2022 for the Radda producer with an ideal mix of the salty and sapid. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Pruneto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Just one of those pure sangiovese that reeks of experience and maturity, having arrived at its destination to hold there for who knows how long. Quite full with liquid leather and liquorice, all things juiced from the land. Has softened and prepared itself for what needs and next. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

If it has not been mentioned there is more richness of 2022 with 40 percent whole bunch and a mix of all the vineyards. First go and drink many without even thinking, then age some, drinking them here and there. You will find new moments each time, different, never the same and worth the very moment.  Last tasted September 2025

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Casciano

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avenne 2022, San Casciano

The project of Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli and and Oenologist Valentino Ciarla with some play on words including “baciate me,” or “kiss me.” Also Avvenne which essentially requests a second glass. The blend is sangiovese with just five percent canaiolo come from old San Casciano vines and though one would expect more warmth and potentially heat – the opposite rings true. Cool, mint-savoury and macchia-influenced while Alberese stone drives the grip with tannic punch. Just 4,000 bottles are produced for this singular, precise and ultra proper Chianti Classico. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

“I know that every year I can do better,” explains Federica Capaccioli and this second kick at the Chianti Classico can is different and better. Basically sangiovese with five percent mix of cabernet sauvignon, canaiolo and colorino. The savoury elements are right there at the aromatic top, spices run through perfumes and across the palate but they come from the land. The 2021 may be a better vintage but 2022 is a more complex, grippy and long-lived wine. Aging is one year in Slavonian tonneaux.  Last tasted September 2025

Beautifully perfumed Riserva from Capaccioli in 2022 with experienced fruit from an old vineyard knowing just what to do. Exotically charged with aromatics by seed and tuber, star anise to galangal for a south by south east Asian spice bouquet. The ripenesses are necessary to keep up and all three do their part, if also the bidding to secure longevity. That will be the case for Riserva that should drink dutifully for up to 10 years time. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

No real change or development, persistently drying, austere and untouchable. Drink the generous 2023 while waiting for 2022 to come around.  Last tasted November 2025

Quite a taut and wound Annata for 2022 with the advantage of elevation next to woods for freshness and crispy preservation. Does well to foil the dried herbs, brushy savour and further aridity provided by austere tannins. Should all come together in two years. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

The original Poggio Torselli, San Casciano Chianti Classico, verdant and savoury at the pinnacle of what that can be like from this northwesterly UGA. Full and dark of fruit with all the proper greens in all the correct places. Sees 12 months in French wood after a concrete fermentation which did the yeoman work to preserve ample freshness. Fine, from a warm vintage and that does show.  Last tasted September 2025

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink.  Tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG Laterra 2022, San Casciano

The new label for Il Contadino Cusano from a recently purchased property with 20 year-old vines in Montefiridolfi, near to Tignanello. Higher elevation at 300m, only stainless fermentation, no concrete involved and then aged 12 months in wood. Lighter and brighter all the way though, clear as a bright blue sangiovese day and a good terroir foil to the first CC from Torselli’s ICC. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Pieve Di Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG Cortine 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Hot and of a density the might best be described as Chiantamarone without the Classico addendum. Too much heat, too vivid and surely over-extracted.  Tasted October 2025

Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Impressive aromatic presence from San Casciano sangiovese (with 10 percent canaiolo and 5 colorino) for a wine that feels to be a child of long (minimum 30 days) of maceration. Brings a strong tannic presence as well though without any detectable austerity therein. A big wine with agreeable 14 percent alcohol and great potential for aging. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted October 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Torre Prumiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

First taste and take ever from this San Donato in Poggio estate with soft and creamy red pulp fruit and tannin without grip. Not soft per se but drier as opposed to forceful. Generous maceration and classic soil composition (clay, calcari and schist) makes for a well-rounded Chianti Classico, Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted October 2025

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sergardo 2022, Vagliagli

Best to experience Sergardo is side by each with La Ghirlanda with the first slightly higher in acidity and the latter of pH. Makes for unique acidities and ultimately singular profiles. There is a sharper if less punchier profile here with limestone making a serious push.  Last tasted September 2025

Warm vintage begets big fruit and firm backbone for Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi’s sangiovese from the family’s Vaglialgi UGA estate called I Colli. Estate vineyards are employed in this location closer to Castelnuovo Berardenga and proximate to the Chianti Colli Senesi, 10 kilometres away from the homefront estate at Mocenni. The classicism of righteous sangiovese is in this glass, sanguine and mineral as it so often is, a construct of fruit, acidity and tannin that only this grape from this region can express. Correct and understood, less immediately gratifying as compared to some other vintages but be confident this wine will continue to drink beautifully after a minimum seven more years. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted July 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2022, Vagliagli

The vineyard is named after the woods in surround of the vineyard with stony soils delivering higher pH and punchier acidity because schist and therefore Galestro are the driver. Perfect timing right here, right now.  Last tasted September 2025

The times it takes for a Chianti Classico estate to perfect a formula for turning sangiovese into beauty is long and those who figure this out make wines like these. Annata from estate vineyards treated and handled with the gentlest of touch, low and slow, collated through processes that identify the vintage, tempering and refining its challenges. Presenting La Ghirlanda which expresses its own balance involving fruit, texture and weight, making use of acidity to distract from tannin and find a wine that drinks proportionally from now through to the end of its tenure. To the next decade. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Complicità Chianti Classico DOCG Assolo 2022, Vagliagli

A sandstone soil with 100 percent sangiovese built sturdy and sure with a saline streak running through slightly darker than transparent red fruit. Wild ferment after a late September pick for a classic Annata expression and one to extol the virtues of Vagliagli savour. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Piccini 1882 Fattoria Di Valiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Straight to the point from knowable and recognizable deciduous terroir for fleshy, red stone fruit. As serviceable as they come, allfor one, one for all. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted October 2025

Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

Gaiole

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2021, Gaiole

That first encounter nearly nine years ago with the Gatteschi family’s 2014 was a memorable one and the 2021 sees an Annata still on the rise, with the best years still to come. Virtually no movement since February of last year with freshness locked in tight and five great drinking years left to enjoy.  Last tasted January 2026

Freshness incarnate from the small single hillside Gaiole estate, a quintessential extension from a forest località, whole and fulfilled of its own accord. As equanimous as any Chianti Classico that exists. Silk-threaded and sumptuous from the first, through filamented acidity and elastic texture. Tannins are fine, unobtrusive and acquiescing. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Casciano

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Predominantly sangiovese with five percent mix of cabernet sauvignon, canaiolo and colorino. A terrific vintage, no frost at Poggio Niccolini, warm summer and optimum grapes brought in of both quality and quantity. The production was 4,000 bottles of the Annata alone and most years that is the total number. The 2021 has arrived, now a full adult, experienced, mature come to its place and with grip after tannic freight has melted through. Does it remind of some wins made twenty years prior, especially from 2001? There is a distinct possibility.  Lasted September 2025

Dramatic and vivid Annata from San Casciano with all the wilds of soil, herbs, brushy plants and florals flying from the glass. The air is filled with orchids, violets, Macchia Mediterraneo, sweet sangiovese, Cassis bled cabernet and sapidity raising canaiolo. Top effort for the UGA with ample vintage personality. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Older Chianti Classico DOCG

Castellina

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Aged in 70 percent chestnut and (30) oak barrels, mostly sangiovese although some of the oldest vines (dating to 1926) could very well be other indigenous varieties and so let’s just call the Chianti Classico a field blend. These tannins tell you who the boss is and the reason behind the avoidance of pressing the fruit. Site is the situation, richness and substance the reality, wood and old plant material the co-conspirators for just how structured an Annata is capable of being.  Last tasted October 2025

Reductive and conversely yet also complementary traditional, of mature fruit subjected to early oxidation as a protection against hasty advancement and then retreat. Bucciarelli’s pure sangiovese does in fact exist in a vacuum with elevated volatile acidity and a modicum of Brettnomyces though neither push the limits of danger. No in fact this 2018 is Chianti Classico so well structured to defy age and see aging as a necessary condition for what it shall become.  Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2024

Panzano

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2024, Panzano

Campione: Shocked and even pleasantly surprised by the aggressive behaviour and tannic freight showing on this campione Riserva 2024. The DNA is there, “regardless of vintage” says Daniel Grace,” it’s something we’re really proud of.” Worthy of being labelled as Riserva. Unequivocally. Remains to be seen just how much stuffing is really there.  Tasted November 2025

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2023

Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2023, Panzano

Bottled in the last year and will be released in ’26 or even ’27. Better vineyard work for protection against sun and heat, but also some loss in ’23 because of the Spring (Peronsospora) downy mildew virus. Only 30 percent loss, better than many. Grippy and forceful but my goodness so young and yet again the new estate direction whereby harmony is achieved between ripe and silken fruit tempered by structured austerity. This is a very fine Riserva, perhaps not as elegant as ’21 but surely more finessed than 2022. Drink 2028-2035.  Tasted November 2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022

Castellina

Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Castellina

Ripe, forward and of a clarity with extra stuffing to denote and properly represent the Riserva level appellation. Also glycerin and creaminess of mouthfeel with just enough though not any overt grip at the finish. Drink early. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted October 2025

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marzi 2022, Castellina

Now labeled as Riserva Marzi with great respect to the family name and current Bibbiano estate custodian Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi. Crisp and crunchy or as they say croccante for Riserva with proper brush and savour. Linear, vertical and yet modernly sumptuous. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted October 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Castellina

Gorgeous aromas and plenty of lift to the edge of promise for sangiovese from Castellina at elevation facing east with some northerly aspect. Long hang time and full phenolic presence with 2022’s warmth through fruit encouraged to continues its development for as long as any in the UGA and quite frankly the region. This walks the line with agility and strength of character to come away as a Chianti Classico beacon for the future. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Berardo 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Two years of aging in “really ancient casks” plus a few new, same approach as the Annata, organic with weather station in the vineyard aid. Gentle extraction with light-handed pumpovers for mild yet effective glycerin, smooth and suave texture, distinctly Bossi Riserva style. Classic for the mid-pyramid appellation and truly, truly Castelnuovo of origin from a seven hectare single vineyard.  Last tasted September 2025

Lovely perfume from Bossi’s Riserva and a 100 percent sangiovese that immediately attracts in just this way. A deep well of red fruit rises, coats and then fills the palate for what is simply definitive Riserva for Chianti Classico. No lack for tannins here neither and so come back year after year for five or more for the enhanced and continued experience. The work of a winemaker honing his or her craft is more than apparent. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Gaiole

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Gaiole

There is a developing distinction for Meleto wines, including the separation of appellative levels and how the wines act for each. Here with Riserva the local forest effect in savoury greens are in the mix, as are silky texture touching on fine tannin. Next level concentration up from Annata and without the pinpointed accuracy of single plot expressive Gran Selezione. Right where it should be. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted October 2025

Greve

Ambrogio E Giovanni Folonari Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Nozzole 2022, Greve

Tight, with some reduction and longer macerated fruit for a trifecta of glycerol, texture and tannin. The latter is a bit grippy and also dried out the finish. Time will soften the edges and the plan would be to catch this Riserva just when that happens, but still before the fruit begins to wane.  Drink 2027-2029. Tasted October 2025

Giacomo Grassi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Rolando 2022, Greve

A new estate sangiovese discovery with ultra fresh aromas, of dwarf pine and other brushy elements for a sangiovese with true terroir definition. Also with five percent each colorino and pugnitello, sandstone soil elements making and stating the case for exactly what this Chianti Classico needs to be. Sweet savour and impeccably balanced with great interest and also complexity. Alberello vines, 450m of elevation in the località Dudda and though labeled as Greve the vineyard surely shares and affinity with the wines with Lamole. The perfumes are unmistakable to have come from land in the alpine shadow of the Chianti Mountains. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted October 2025

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Gherardino 2022, Greve

Uptick in concentration and suave texture yet no increase in warmth and ultimately Riserva is as smooth and seductive as sangiovese (with 10-20 percent merlot) is ever going to be. Prato, Querceto and Solatio are the three vineyards chosen for Riserva, in part Panzano and the other Greve. The sangiovese sees 20 hL botti for 18 months and the merlot goes through barriques. Yields are significantly lower at 38 hL per hectare as opposed to 45 for Annata. Quite a fine Riserva, once again one of the silkiest of many in this territory. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Lamole

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Lareale 2022, Lamole

Campione: A sample not yet in market but already bottled. Riserva is reserved, young and in no great hurry, neither to impress or express what will eventually come to be. Even the perfumes are demure though some light is shed in flavours, complexities and movements across the palate. A sip helps the Lamole scents to make themselves known but they pale in comparison to the fineness of the sangiovese’s mineral chalkiness. This as a result of the vineyard’s way of transmitting the area’s terroir, of sandstone and derivative Galestro flaking though the vines and into the sangiovese bunches. Lareale needs another two years to make its message be heard loud and clear. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted November 2025

Panzano

Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

Lifted and lithe for Riserva with grace and elegance as compared to so many peers. A consumer might not understand the style or effect as it pertains to the appellative level, while many will appreciate and respect the restraint all the same. A lovely, beautiful and moderate expression this is. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted October 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

Even at Riserva level there is this feeling of a wine that can deliver the desire to drink right away with affordability in mind. The vines are 50 years of age which mean quite a lot and there is more sun retention leading to higher acid and lightning strength in fruit style. The other Riserva is named Sa’Etta which means thunderbolt but in 2022 this Riserva feels to reflect the name. Striking sangiovese with unbridled energy. Nearly two decades of commitment to agriculture has come to this harmony for a moment not experienced before. One of the top successes for Chianti Classico Riserva out of the hot and bothered vintage. No heat, not here, not now.  Last tasted September and November 2025

Purity and natural beauty for this Panzano Riserva. Something primary about it to be sure but c’mon it’s 2022 and the wine has barely touched the sky. Down to earth yes but bright and of a purple fruit exclusive to this estate and label. Monte Bernardi’s tastes like none else, in a class of its own and a sangiovese (with five percent colorino) such as this will change your mind about how to grow, ferment and bottle Chianti Classico. Just those three tenets of the process. Especially when they are as clean and pure as this. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sa’Etta 2022, Panzano

Now from Pietraforte soil on old vines at 450-500m in an amphitheatre-shaped vineyard with the same exposition as the first Riserva, but on the other side of the road with grapes that develop a thicker skin, likely due to higher solar reflection. The favour profile is not tied into the aromatics and the harvest time is just about the same but tannins are grippier and require further time in bottle.Approximately 10 months spent in wood and released in November though ’22 being the warm vintage meant an August release. More tannin and weight which will likely lead to longer aging. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

In bottle (later than normal) and will not be released until 2027 for a less than unicorn vintage with many challenges. Too hot, too dry, plants shut down and a worry the grapes would never fully ripen. Solid work in July, use of sunburn warding off kaolin, less leaf thinning and bunch protection were all necessary to protect the vines and allow them to reawaken in September to finish harvest. In the end Casenuove produced a solid and structured Riserva emblematic and reflective of northwest Panzano for 2022. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted November 2024

Radda

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

The aromatic seasoning from multifarious barrel persists as an obvious spice and woodworking shop aromatic character of the wine. Crispy right now, Amaro herbal and still seductive.  Last tasted September 2025

The most exotically perfumed Riserva in the territory, at least from 2022, with the scents of lemongrass, fenugreek and in the oddest way the aromatics that create a Thai Curry. Unusual? Yes. Seductive? Absolutely. Feels like a percentage of American wood and 20 percent merlot are the answers to the questions and still the seduction is real. If you like Rioja Riserva this will be right up your alley and if you can appreciate the different than you should also be pleased. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Bugialla 2022, Radda

Always a Riserva that combines size with elasticity, largesse with harmony and alcohol (15 percent) with balance. ’Tis the place, the way grapes ripen to phenolic fruition and a winemaker who respects exactly what needs to be done. Warm and silky 2022 as Riserva in the way the appellation should and is in fact is relayed. Tannins are forceful here and time is of patient’s essence. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

San Casciano

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Riserva that could be Gran Selezione, single-vineyard (there is currently only one hectare) and only the oldest vines go into this production. Just 900 bottles from the union of French tonneaux and barriques. The old vines are 100 percent sangiovese and so here you are. The label depicts the union between Montalcino and Firenze, echoing the symmetry of the Capaccioli logo with two elements, the “C” from Federica’s Chevalier ring and the onyx from Montalcino. Quite a mouthful of wood and grainy tannins, the wine so young and integration will come. Eventually. Federica told her unnamed consultant it was too oaky “to be my Riserva” and yet now the wine is changing, incorporating and allowing new flavours to emerge. This is the best work done from a first Riserva vintage no matter the style or effect. Will settle, play nice and subsequent vintages will only get better and better. Drink 2028-2035.  Tasted September 2025

Mons Driadalis Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

A brand new Chianti Classico estate with just one hectare in San Casciano for 500-1,000 bottles of Chianti Classico Riserva and 500 bottles of Rosé. Only sangiovese planted in 2016 with this a pretty wine from youngest vines not yet ready to express what they will become. Elegance indeed and the interest runs high though what structure and potential lay ahead is truly unknown. Beginning in 2024 there will be another hectare from Lamole at Poggio all’Olmo, with plantings from 1985 and 2004. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted October 2025

Podere La Villa Di Ilaria Tachis Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Expecta 2022, San Casciano

From the daughter of renowned Italian oenologist Giacomo Tachis. Volatility runs high with rubbery aromas, very much like the inner lining of a tire. Palate and tannins are a bit brittle although there is some quality fruit lurking behind the distraction. Feels like an early go at making sangiovese from young vines in Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted October 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Riserva sees 24 months in wood vats and is a bit of a late release as compared to many CCR but the style and effect is clearly, visibly and undoubtedly Carlo Ferrini’s. Rich fruit is substantial with an even richer textural complexion because the barrel brings more breadth and grain. Earth and leather aid in the development of a true Riserva profile. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Laterra 2022, San Casciano

The new label for here at Riserva level for Il Contadino Cusano with the higher quality fruit out of the recently purchased Montefiridolfi property and its 20 year-old vines at 300m. Sees the same 24 months in wood (as the first Riserva) and the alcohol is 0.5 lower at 13.5 percent. Same chalky grain and textural style, as per Carlo Ferrini making older-schooled CCR. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG La Riserva 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Just the smallest amount of colorino splashes as with the Annata although La Riserva goes to wood for 14 months in botti or used barriques. Unique fruit profile for San Donato in Poggio, almost blue or purple in character, come into view from florals and with lift. Definite extension from Annata and though here the warm vintage is the source there is juicy freshness in a crunchy sangiovese as Riserva. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Vallepicciola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Quite the savoury Riserva with notable evergreen perfume and other unnamed verdant character. Fruit lays lower and below the herbaceous elements with moderate structure strong enough to supply this 100 percent sangiovese with the stuffing mid-term aging. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted October 2025

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021

Greve

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

The presence of Riserva from such an ideal vintage as 2021 wavers not for a single moment, not since inception, nor through four years after the vintage was collected, realized and aged. The sturdiness and generous nature of sangiovese given from the Ruffoli hill’s micro-climate remains in persistent freshness while continuing to accumulate potential. Vertical vintage, built for the longest Riserva haul. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted November 2025

Montefioralle

Conti Capponi – Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

A deeper and richer inhalant for sangiovese, surely as compared to the Annata ’22 and also many peers in the region. Fermented in 50 hL cement vats and open tonneaux, aged 20 years in cask, tonneaux and cement. Strays but nowhere from its strength and grip though with 20 minutes in the glass the floral and generous components begin to emerge. Riserva must have time in bottle and glass. It is essential towards seeing what is possible. Sweetness of acidity elevates fruit and allows it to stand up to structure. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

The 2021 has been in bottle since May of 2023 and will be released in January of 2026. April frost only affected the youngest vines, August was hot and then a day here and there of refreshing rains led to a long and stretched out harvest. Grapes chosen were collected at optimum ripeness, come from half and half between older vines raised in the vein of Pietraforte that runs from Casenuove all the way down through the Conca d’Oro and then to the edge of Radda, along with this part of Panzano’s red ochre Galestro, mainly the upper parts of Perlame, Lepre, Posso and Rossa delle Torre. Fermented in concrete, held for 25-plus days, inclusive of delicate pumpovers. Winemaking is done by “taking our feet off the accelerator,” explains Maria Sole. Textural Panzano fills the palate on this conglomerate of rocks and stones perfumed sangiovese that accomplishes something Tenuta Casenuove had not yet achieved. That would be a Riserva so stylish while also transmitting and in fact owing their unique location and soil compositions. The 2021 survey meets the makers’ expectations with just enough compaction and austerity to see potential as never before. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted November 2024

Radda

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Has been nearly 20 months since last tasting the 2021 Riserva and yes things have changed. Fruit showing generously at peak performance, wood sliding into the background and acidity thriving. There was a bit more new oak in the ’21 but the ’22 shows it more. Funny isn’t that? Says so much about the quality of the fruit.  Last tasted September 2025

The opposite of light and juicy but looking for elegance through aging 16 months in tonneaux for the sangiovese and barriques for the merlot, on average 50 percent new. Outstanding vintage says Barbara Widmer, as opposed to ’20 merely being “good.“ But they are one in the same in many ways, acidity still thriving, fruit full and substantial, tannins very much in charge. True Riserva style, always and seemingly forever.  Tasted April 2024

Brancaia Riserva takes off where Annata leaves off and seems a bit agitated at this early stage. Even with 20 percent merlot there is an uneasiness about the sangiovese and this may not be the best time to seek the truth. Nevertheless the 2021’s lift, heft and breadth indicate a swirl of substance in fruit that precedes structure, while power knows how much it’s in control. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

San Donato In Poggio

Ormanni Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Borro Del Diavolo 2021, San Donato in Poggio

Strength in Riserva, power by way of restraint and concentration at peak for the low-yielding vintage of great potential. Impressive fruit followed by even more structure, almost into a fortified arena to speak of a decade or more unfolding laid out ahead. Volumetric perfumes, layers of grit and acid on the palate, tannins more expressive then restrained. There is a depth from start to finish that speaks in a solo sangiovese vernacular through top level clarity. The requiem for peak success is to request another 18 months of rest. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted November 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The “little oak” applies to Riserva, 100 percent sangiovese neither from the youngest nor the oldest vines. Take the tension from Annata as obvious as any Chianti Classico, multiply that character and here you feel the magnification of a San Donato in Poggio sangiovese, with a reduced blood orange flavour. Ages in barriques, 20 percent new and the classicism directed is heritage preserved. The finish holds a chocolate component in a mix of creamy and austere, almost a curious and generous combination. I think this tastes like Barolo. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted September 2025

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG I Colli 2020, Vagliagli

Seven and a half months onward and I Colli’s warmth of 2020 is beginning to incite some movement in the wine. Tasted side by side with Caledonia you can’t miss the darker fruit profile and clay soil defining the determined kind of character in sangiovese.  Last tasted September 2025

Riserva of experience and layering, a mille-feuille of fruit and acidity intertwined, interchangeable and complimentary. One then the other taking turns at the wheel, got each others’ backs, defending from tannins coming forward sweet yet fierce. Full and substantial in most every regard but especially those parts that exemplify optimum ripeness. No lack for beauty and grace – never a doubt or question. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Calidonia 2020, Vagliagli

The complexity and stony saltiness in Calidonia will never be denied, not 17 months ago, not at this moment, not nine or ten years from now. Elegance and grace, each declared through pretty persuasion.  Last tasted September 2025

Campione: A sample and always Calidonia – Calidonia, the three vineyard (Vigna della signora Chiara, Finocchi and Perone) from Mocenni estate as Riserva that is the sangiovese incarnation of its maker Alessandra Casini. A Riserva of grace and fluidity, of movement as if feet do not touch the ground and corporeal body gliding effortlessly across the palate. The wine “senza sforzo nel movimento,” still in youth with wood purposed and informing fruit to come for the soirée and stay for the pleasure. As do we because the ingredients will eventually emulsify into a fine varietal salsa. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Castellina

Castagnoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Terrazze 2019, Castellina

Open and philanthropic, juxtaposed by a dusty sangiovese expression, all in opposition to the current emotion of a maturing Riserva. Not a shock considering that 2019 is no longer a vintage from yesterday but now one looked at in the nearer reaches of the rear-view mirror. Showing well, the peak of the terrace no longer above but now one from which looking down is the current situation. Holding bottles any longer will not add to the pleasure to be gained from this wine. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted November 2025

Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

The 2019 is yet another example for a Casenuove Riserva that surprises with its preserved freshness, although this vintage has moved forward faster than the 2018.  Last tasted November 2025

Riserva at 100 percent sangiovese is a change from the Classico where smallest bits of colorino, canaiolo and merlot are involved. Riserva comes from a strict selection of the best part of estate vineyards where clay-schist soils spill over with iron-rich Galestro outcroppings. As in Panzano in all its glory for a true expression of Casenuove’s warm location. Creates this clean sangiovese of utmost clarity.  Tasted February 2025

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Older Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

Castellina

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

From the vintage of no rain and all heat, the sangiovese field blend for Riserva aged in second, third and fourth passage wood. Bucciarelli did wait out the sun, welcomed the rain and after September 7th the temperatures stabilized, nights began to cool off and the berries swelled. Massimo Bucciarelli would have picked in October in spite of the season and early (sugar) ripeness, allowing for phenolics to catch up and equalize. Acidity is remarkably high, fruit twice ripe and tannins too. As good a 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva as could be wished for from Castellina and the territory. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted October 2025

Gaiole

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2019, Gaiole

After the Gatteschi family took control in 1990 of a farm abandoned 40 years prior the lower vineyards (comprising four hectares) were replanted between 1999 and 2003, the rest in the winter of 2011/2012 and the (lower) cabernet franc vineyard was re-grafted in 2018. The sangiovese comes from three locations: the three high vineyards (550-580m), Antica Rocca (600) and America’s Vineyard (610-625). Elevations of 490-550m are where the small amounts of merlot and alicante bouschet are grown to accent the sangiovese in Riserva. The 2019 comes from a vintage that has delivered so many classic Riserva for Chianti Classico and how thankful are we to have a look at one from altitude in Gaiole that has already served its time in bottle. At six and a half years with more than half that time already out of wood there is a sense that everything meant to occur has indeed come to fruition. The ’19 is sumptuous, steady, poised and a clear success for the UGA’s stellar season. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted January 2026

Lamole

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigneto Campolungo 1999, Lamole

Andrea Daldin’s seventh vintage at Lamole di Lamole is showing just as beautifully as his first from 1993, tasted back in March of 2022. In fact this ’99 exceeds that Riserva with emotion, longevity and a feeling of seventh heaven. The secondary perfumes are equally Lamole, of UGA and sangiovese lifeblood as any, floral and gently caramelized, complex as an essence of that which grows in the rows between vines and in the forests filling every other square metre of Lamole. A remarkable showing, wood healthily used yet fully melted into the fabric of a classic vintage and expertly executed Riserva. There will surely be two to four really good years left in the tank for this special Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted November 202

Panzano

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Panzano

A hotter summer but thankfully 10 days of freshening Tramontana northern winds blew in during harvest. The first year when only larger (mainly Stockinger) casks were used but also a bit of Piedmontazine cappello sommerso whereby submerged cap macerations would last for 60 days. The beginning of a new epoch for Riserva with some electricity created and a new energy for this level of appellative wine. The 2018 is moving slowly ahead, so much more incrementally than anticipated, with plenty of life left to live.  Last tasted November 2025

A Riserva quite consistent with the ’18 Annata, than the 19s, fruit captured at a more harmonious induced state and ultimately juicier as a result. Tannins silky with plenty of glycerol in a Riserva of dark western Panzano caramelization. Would not wait to drink this 100 percent sangiovese because maturity is fully happening already. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Panzano

So different to 2016, here without merlot and instead solo sangiovese from the hottest and driest vintage. Fruit now succumbing to the local Balsamico without really needing to fight for time and space – not anymore. Still a lovely and elegant expression, as fine as could be wished for from the season and fading gently into the Panzano sunset. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted November 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016, Panzano

The first and last year 10 percent merlot was included in the Riserva mix, eight to nine years of age and a fine vintage to see age forward to this ideal point. Maintains freshness with just a hint of sottobosco beginning to usher a transfer from primary to secondary fruit. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted November 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2014, Greve

The perfumes of 2014 are intense, verdant, savoury and so evergreen in nature. Cool and wet vintage but anyone who may have questioned longevity should have a nose and then take a sip off this forever sangiovese. Sure, it’s aromas have changed, also accumulated and exaggerated, now showing off terroir as much as any to be encountered. Like carpenters of great skill will build the sturdiest of edifices or writers will compose timeless songs. It’s only just begun.  Last tasted November 2025

This young and impressionable Riserva has been a year in bottle and with more (to mostly) Ruffoli fruit than normal it can’t help but speak a very specific language. Ad with the Annata from the same vintage there were problems with the Radda fruit and so the near-solo journey means less rounded edges and higher tones. The best fruit came from Greve, followed by Radda and then Gaiole. What you notice from this ’14 is its depth of beautiful cherry liqueur with earth tones and musky leather. The acidity is the constant, so very Ruffoli and the tannins are surprisingly sweet. Should all come together in another year or so. Drink 2019-2024.  Tasted February 2018

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022

Castellina

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, Castellina

The most important vintage celebrates the estate first purchased by Barbara Widmer’s parents in the 1980s and vines re-planted in 1999. “It has only taken 20 years to bring it back to the original high quality,” jokes Barbara Widmer. Truth is there is an amazing natural sweetness and surety about a sangiovese already easy and available.  Last tasted September 2025

Big bones and a wave of exotic perfume defining the vintage and for Castellina. I mean it’s Gran Selezione and so 2022 is really young. Feels like the wine is still refining while it stiff arms your palate to ward off the tackle and so surely too early to be tasting. Speaks to the idea of a window opening before some other number of UGA ‘22s, but the time is far from nigh. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

Exotically expressive bouquet from Cecchi’s top sangiovese drop with a cool herbal streak running through the warmth of the vintage. Well judged with savour and plush tannins to make for a most well-rounded Gran Selezione with finishing Balsamico spice. Tight now, opening likely the year after next. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Romitorio Di Santedame 2022, Castellina

Plethora of barrel character from spices to chocolates and every seasoning in between. Baking spice on fruit with the character and body to handle the years it will take to integrate and become one. Be patient. Drink 2028-2032.  Tasted October 2025

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sei 2022, Castellina

Bright and lifted Gran Selezione for 2022 from the high limestone filled elevated dome of a vineyard in Castellina. Crunchy as they come with tight lines, savour and intensity of lightning red fruit. As per the place and the way the wines need to be made. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Fèlsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Once a Riserva, now a third Gran Selzione for the estate from the famous south facing slope that visually reminds of the Chablisienne Fourchaume. In appearance and also the broad swath of fruit and grip it gifts to its famous tenant. Here as sangiovese out of the skeletal Alberese for strength and power with the unmissable Fèlsina verdant savour. Quite a tight chalkiness and white peppery character. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2022, Gaiole

Rich, substantial, ultra ripe sangiovese with highest Gaiole acidity and a brightness about its character. Another croccante Gran Selezione with great verticality and potential, especially for 2022. Do not sleep on Colledilà, not ever. Shot to the heart. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted October 2025

Greve

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Corte 2022, Greve

Warm vintage that accentuates the effect of the land to put its stamp on 100 percent sangiovese with relative vintage impunity. Quite crunchy for a Gran Selezione and also stiff, meaning the tannic presence and profile are immovable at this earliest of these first stages. This sangiovese must have the bottle to get where it is intended to go. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2022, Greve

Notable fresh and fragrant herbal aromas, sweet garden scents and then a liquidity of plummy fruit for a full and mouth-filling experience. A rich and expressive Le Bolle of quicker immediacy towards gratification. No reason to wait on this sumptuous sangiovese. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Radda

Istine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Casanova dell’Aia 2022, Radda

The perfume of angels defines Radda’s Casanova dell’Aia and that may sound like fluff but there are no peers equipped with this ethereal aroma. The wave begins from the first and they keep coming, constantly, consistently, metered, incremental and seamless for sangiovese time immemorial. No gaps nor pauses and only fluid motion. Sublime Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted October 2025

Istine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Istine 2022, Radda

From the steep declension of Istine’s limestone and schist littered home vineyard equipping this warm vintage Gran Selezione with a lick of fortified structure to see it live deep into the next decade. More high elevation savoury layers within, without and in stratification for sangiovese on the more serious side of the Gran Selezione appellation. Not hidden but at first unnoticed is the elevated acidity which is remarkable given the heat of 2022 and only certain Chianti Classico capture this excellence in the face of a season’s furtive gesture. Istine’s is grand in so many ways; fruit, acid, tannin and potential. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted November 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltassala 2022, Radda

The perfume and ambience of Radda at elevation beget a Volpaia 2022 in Coltassala that dares to say that a warm vintage may try but won’t ultimately have the greater say on the outcome. A hyperbole of Raddese effect comes at the palate in waves with a wealth of flavours and truthfully more immediacy than Coltassalas of the past. In the pantheon of Volpaia and Gran Selezione this will please earlier the many. Do not dawdle over your bottles. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted October 2025

San Casciano

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, San Casciano

The first Gran Selezione for the tiny San Casciano production and a 100 percent sangiovese to help define style begetting effect for the UGA. Distinct savour and with the vintage also an intensity that many other Gran Selezione do not express. Tannins are tightly wound, needing a few years to come together and they will alongside the strength of the fruit. Also thankful for the tying ability of the acidity. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted October 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Le Balze 2022 is clearly a Gran Selezione of restraint, of winemaking making sure to stay clear of heavy handed practice. Not quite a vintage to look for the sublime but Il Poggiolino finds the higher ground and delivers ephemeral beauty in Gran Selezione.  Last tasted October 2025

Three barrel types used, each to the same degree, of botti, barriques and tonneaux. A 2022 of freshness, so much so that considering the vintage you could say “incarnate.” Le Balze, giant step, as opposed to le balzo, the giant leap. Play with the words and many meanings can come out. One of the more balanced and early accessible Gran Selezione with minor grip, juicy acidity like La Riserva 2022 and Il Classico 2023. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted September 2025

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021

Castellina

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

Nearly 17 months after the last tasting with the Castellina macchia now showing its influence on the ’21 Gran Selezione. A vintage both relatable and ideal.  Last tasted September 2025

Fine, fine Brancaia, luxe and stylish while restrained in any needed way. The epitome of modern Gran Selezione, understated and always giving, with confidence and the understanding of why the appellation was conceived. Crunchy and savoury, still highly tannic and so make sure to concentrate on the beauty of perfume in this early stage of its tenure.  Tasted October 2024

The aromas and perfumes are so much more prevalent and open for 2021 with stoniness and Castellina as the instigator for how this Gran Selezione is want to express itself. Crispy, savoury and the sort to really bite down and sink your teeth into.  Tasted April 2024

New label not yet printed that likely indicated this has not been in bottle long and as a 2021 Gran Selezione that must surely be the case. Keep this in mind when you feel just how implosive and locked in the fruit is kept behind the wall of tannic sound. The freight is loaded in the compartments but the train has yet to leave the station – though as a 2021 there will be joy at the end of the line. With stops along the way because the vintage does not demand too much nor will it crash and burn. Brancaia’s 2021 is a ripe and primed GS to live out the decade and then for a few more years in the next. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

Chianti Classico is beloved for 2021, in short supply but still treasured because of the quality and humility that came from precious small amounts fruit that followed the April frost. The balance between Palaggione fruit planted in 1965, “a piece of art” says Giulia Cecchi and the verticality of its architecture creates a Gran Selezione with meaning. Might be powerful but already the Galestro is melting and the sangiovese speaks in a come and get me language. Seventh vintage of this wine now rises to seventh heaven.  Last tasted November 2025

Taut and still somewhat reductive Gran Selezione from Castellina, not yet ready to calm, settle and release. A red fruit profile quite intense and acidity doing much the same. Needs to chill, relax and integrate, melt in its upfront barrel and come away with a new attitude, in new light. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

With the Gran Selezione the decision is always the selection of the best grapes of the vintage. The vintage release is the same as Riserva though the GS sees six more months of aging, as per the disciplinare. More concentration requires more wood and so a few new casks are in the mix although you’d not necessarily notice this from the nose. High level perfumes and without the historical rusticity of the Berardo. A Castelnuovo elegance made possible for the combination of place and craft, although rarely achieved. Top vintage for this wine to be sure. There will be no Riserva or Gran Selezione for 2023 due to 50 percent loss to Perenospera and lack of structure due to faster/shorter ripening.  Last tasted September 2025

Bossi’s 2021 is truly a different animal as compared to its Riserva, less forthright, not quite as open or soliciting of immediate gratification. A vertical solo sangiovese expression, seriously structured and needing time. That said there is a brightness and citrus aspect that’s quite invigorating. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Greve

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

One of three Gran Selezione and the first vintage for three UGAs to be singled out, split from one another and perform individual sangiovese acts for Lamole, Radda and here out of Greve. The least perfume though that is extremely relative when you consider Radda and Lamole to be the other two, still Greve is floral and bursting with dark berry fruit. Darkest hue as well, concentrated and luxe in ways the others do not show. Built with a fineness of chalky underlay, expressive of Querciabella’s tannins so close to home, so bloody sangiovese taut, tightly wound, marked by Metallica tension, gripping its pillow tight, Top echelon expression and defining for the Ruffoli hill with the greatest of tension. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted November 2025

Lamole

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Grospoli 2021, Lamole

Anteprima: A sample not yet in market but already bottled. From the slightly lower elevated vineyard adjacent the cantina, church and the multifarious vines that occupy sister block Campolungo. Grospoli comes from a beautiful vintage that included the Easter frost but to be fair that was not really a thing in Lamole. Finesse, fineness and precision are the triad of successes noted as by-product’s of what derivative emotion can come from Chianti Classico’s famous Lamole perfume, Everything about this wine speaks to the well developed ideal that is Gran Selezione. Juiciest at the top appellation, succulent and generous. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted November 2025

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Campolungo 2021, Lamole

Anteprima: A sample not yet in market but already bottled. Vigna Campolungo is the historical vineyard, oldest plants dating to 1982, the one that travels back 40-plus years in terms of the Lamole development from unknown frazione to fashionable UGA, now sought after within greater Chianti Classico. The volume of aromas, fleshiness of fruit, layering of acidities and freight of tannin are all essential parts of its success. The Macigno, Calcari and Galestro variegation all contribute towards a sangiovese existing as an extension of well respected, maintained and heeded terraces. Campolungo mixes restrained power, verticality and potential in ways Grospoli does not. Not better but different and ultimately with a higher ceiling. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted November 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Lamole

One of three Gran Selezione and the first vintage for three UGAs to be singled out, split from one another and perform acts from Greve, Radda and here out of Lamole. First order of business is the Lamole perfume from cool and sweetly savoury fruit selected from the eight hectares of Querciabella’s most recent vineyard acquisition in Chianti Classico. A sangiovese pool filled with Lamole syrup, sweet acidity and verdant streaks of light. A scintillant and a giving Gran Selezione, one followed by the other, on repeat, never relenting and always intense. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted November 2025

Montefioralle

Conti Capponi – Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2021, Montefioralle

Moving along though the tannins remain tight clustered and unforgiving. The fruit and acidity are together knocking at the door and ready for some action. Perhaps another 18 months will do what is necessary to set La Fornace free. The most “Lamolese” of the three Gran Selezione.  Last tasted September 2025

The grandest statement of the three Capponi Gran Selezione is made by La Fornace, of the vineyard nicknamed “the furnace,” a place where solar radiation, especially in a vintage like this brings all the fruit out to play. More tension than the others, a greater demand made on our palates and a sapidity unlike the rest. Serious Selezione, perhaps less finessed and one to savour for years, but not quite yet. Drink 2028-2034.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conti Capponi – Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2021, Montefioralle

Vigna Contessa Luisa remains the tightest of the three 2021 Gran Selezione, this in contract to abide by what was felt in February of this year. Luisa is playing hard to get, down in a dumb phase, closed until further notice. Fruit strong and grippy will run free soon enough, likely two years from now.  Last tasted September 2025

Contessa Luisa, closer in style to Bastignano then to Fornace with more glycerol and silken texture. Also a metal-mineral cloud burst through, like ink in slow motion, injected into water. Fruit feels purple or nearly so and here again the 2021 vintage is full of fruit so ripe and expressive. Memories of discussing the April frost and the state of Chianti Classico with Sebastiano Capponi flood back with a taste of Contessa Luisa. Such a fine Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection,  February 2025

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2021, Montefioralle

For 2021 Vigna Bastignano resides at the pinnacle of generosity and gratification. No change really, either in maturity or structural strength and next Spring should see fruit reach the peak and tannin allow for some near term enjoyment. Will live well, just not as long as the other two Gran Selezione. Exults what the northern part of Montefioralle is about.  Last tasted September 2025

One of three Capponi Gran Selezione and in 2021 this just has to be the succulent one with the most up front mastery. Easy to understand, full and persuasive, flowing, languid and long. Bastignano is the sangiovese that takes it all in stride, of verse flowing into refrain, a composition never delivering a moment of gratuity. There without forcing anything, balanced as they come, earlier drinking than the other grippier Selezione. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection,  February 2025

Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2021, Panzano

Breathing sangiovese is just this – you can almost feel the inhale and exhale of ’21 Vigna del Sorbo on this freshest of October 2025 days. The Tramontana wind, cool and strong is blowing down and tasting four year-old sangiovese today is just right. Great vindication.  Last tasted September 2025

These old vines are resistant to and able to handle adversities like frost, extreme weather events and challenging vintages – The 2021 season was one of these but Vigna del Sorbo came through unscathed and yet like so many old vine plots it just does not produce with unlimited vigour. The quality of 2021 is timeless and this sangiovese will surely live well for 50 years. Brother Chianti Classico has arrived at its peak and this Gran Selezione is getting close. The tannins are still a bit crunchy and grainy, not yet elasticized, fused and consolidated.  Tasted April 2025

Oldest plot of vines are just approaching 50 years of age growing in the schist with Galestro flaking above the soil. Giovanni Manetti decided to bottle Sorbo as a single vineyard in 1985 though it does come from three plots of plantings put in between 1965 and 1973. Though April frost affected quantity in 2021 there was no compromise to quality and in fact this is as balanced a Vigna el Sorbo as Manetti has ever produced. Bottled just three-plus weeks ago and so yes it’s tight and compact, especially the tannins that take control but truth is this will continue to happen for another few months at the very least. See past the first stage and imagine what will be, take stock of memory and project towards the future. Manetti once said “the fresh finish (of the 1993 wine) should be the trademark of Chianti Classico wines.” Perhaps 2021 will emerge this way. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2021, Panzano

The most floral of the Fontodi Gran Selezione and just the third vintage of the San Leolino. Growing grapes around the church dates back to at least 1500, likely earlier and history counts for so much. That and the schist meets limestone in the soil with Galestro flake manifestation for two-toned structure seamlessly layers and woven into the fabric of sangiovese. Showing with verve today, as is Vigna del Sorbo.  Last tasted September 2025.

Must be noted that San Leolino’s 5,000 bottle production is a factor of Alberese soil and not Pietraforte because that vein of geology crosses the northern ridge of the Conca d’Oro before turning south towards Vigna del Sorbo. There is a crispy quality, notable power and darker cherry fruit with some Balsamico as well. The tannins are linear, cutting across right angles, yet to relent or meet any place or anytime soon in the middle. Hard to get and at least two years away.  Tasted April 2025

From the terraces around the old medieval Panzano church that the Manetti’s have and continue to restore for a Gran Selezione they were not sure would be made this early in their tenure of working with its fruit. Yet it shocked and surprised Giovanni and Bernardo to the point that it could be made at this level so early and so 2019 was the first, well ahead of schedule. This is a truly structured vintage, a trace of next direction, from the past and through the next generation, fruit so compact and mineral focused but tannins in complete control. The finish is beautifully salty and so completely Panzano. This puts San Leolino as Gran Selezione in next level and new light. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted February 2024

Radda

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Radda

San Casciano

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montecapri 2021, San Casciano

Still a baby and though at Gran Selezione level the wood should rightly still dominate that’s not exactly the case. The vibrancy rocks and the wine admits to little evolution. Come back in the spring of 2026 to see it anything has changed, if at all. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Laterra 2021, San Casciano

Third and top of the pyramid from the newly minted and verifiably experienced (20 years of age) vineyard in Montefiridolfi now under the ownership of Il Contadino Cusano. Slings the top fruit into a sangiovese with real truth spoken and felt. The pyrazine is extrapolated, as is the freshness and vibrancy, in a different way than the first Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020

Castellina

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2020, Castellina

Villa Rosa is higher elevation fruit for Gran Selezione than that of Valore di Famiglia and as such a year older of a sangiovese actually feels like a younger wine. That is owing to stones in the soil, winds and an increased combination of acidity and tannin. In other words a truly structured 2020 that needs more time to open so that it may be ready for drinking with joy. Crunchy exterior and macchia-balsamico-savoury accented interior all needing at least another year to come together as one. Drink 2026–2032.  Tasted November 2025

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione di Nittardi 2020, Castellina

The first Gran Selezione made at Nittardi, from fruit on the estate, specifically in 2020 from the 2012 vineyard at Villa Rosa mixed with the lower block at Vigna Doghessa. All Castellina fruit, only sangiovese and the approachability of this GS is second to none for all of Nittardi’s Chianti Classico. Fermentation happens in stainless steel, a few days of whole, uncut berry pumpover extraction, 20 days in total, moved to a mix of small and large wood, some new, much not, a total of two years. Finishes in concrete. At the top of the heap in terms of concentration and luxe character, a rich and fulfilling sangiovese experience. Clean and so well made, including the final cut decisions of oenologist Carlo Ferrini who has consulted at Nittardi since the beginning.  Last tasted November 2025

Über Castellina sangiovese, full fruit compliment at Gran Selezione level and already openly generous. Crunchy fruit mixed with equally toothsome tannin make for a good appellative combination. Fine work out of the variable 2020 vintage. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted October 2024

Castelnuovo Berardenga

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggiorosso 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Give Poggiorosso two years further in bottle and power will shift, to elongate the sangiovese towards elegance. The elasticity of this fruit from variable 2020 is the impetus to combine with its acid catalyst and see no sign of decline anytime soon. Submits to the notion conceived two years back concerning a Gran Selezione that will age slowly, incrementally and gracefully for 15 years post harvest.  Last tasted November 2025

Poggiorosso as the second Gran Selezione is also labeled as Castelnuovo Berardenga for the first vintage under the new allowable UGA rules. Now from a single vineyard, an Alberese limestone source planted in 2000 and yet a consistent or at least seamless segue from the multi-site and multi-varietal GS. An extraordinary example of Selezione, rich and powerful but so accepting of its wood, seamlessly organized, oriented and original in every respect. Really elegant here from Leonardo Bellacini. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted October 2023

Gaiole

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2020, Gaiole

“From one extreme to another,” wrote Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi in October, 2020. “Actually, after the most rainy Fall ever, this dry situation was exactly what I was expecting.” No rain through to May, early bud break and conversely thankful for cool late Spring weather. Then a very warm August but cool nights and comfort through to harvest ending on October 10. Sounds like a progression for success, right? For the single schist-rocky San Marcellino vineyard Gran Selezione that would be unequivocally correct. The combination of slow-developed ripeness and acidity combining to scent as juicy can only mean a level of sangiovese best described as “abbondanza o ricchezza di succo,” an abundance or richness of juice to drive this GS in the most linear way. The 2020 makes a B-line for your senses, attacks with fervour, takes grip and holds on for a minute on end. The wherewithal is formidable, the tannins show no austerity and it would be hard to imagine any relent within the next 10 years. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted January 2026

Greve

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Greve

Ruffoli hill for Gran Selezione and a most unique aromatic vintage, a note of orange extract as aerosol for a sangiovese raised on warmth and promises. A factor of capello sommerso, a submerged cap kept wet for an extended period of maceration, perfumes captured, kept and now just about ready to fully burst from the wine. Spices on this vintage, of the baking cupboard studding the orange, adding outgoing complexity and intimate nuance to sangiovese at Querciabella’s highest level. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted November 2025

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019

Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Lamole

Purely, expressly and definitively Lamole perfume from a vintage destined to explain just what that may be. Savour but of a sweet and ambient nature that only sangiovese from this garden of UGA eden is want to convey. A manifest destiny of place in the hands of Susanna Grassi for vintage, variety and place. In a swarthy state today, a temporary activity that will change after these current tangle of tannins melt away.  Last tasted November 2025

From the oldest vines, including those planted back in 1965 and aged for two years in large cask, a.k.a. grandi botti. The old vines show what can be done from lowest of yields, highest of concentration and by way of a contract that seeks and attains the necessity of elegance. Everything about Susanna Grassi’s Gran Selezione speaks to the Lamole UGA, in sweetly herbal and savoury perfume, a floral note connected to the botany and grace under the pressure of structure so well defined. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted October 2023, February and October 2024

San Donato In Poggio

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Corbezzolo 2019, San Donato In Poggio

The first vintage for the 100 percent sangiovese qualified for and labeled as Gran Selezione, previously IGT and now in the mix where profound importance is both goal and assessment. Changes in the glass considerably with just 10 minutes, increasing flesh and amazingly also acidity. Felt soft to begin and then waxes in energy without letting go of its savour and grip.  Last tasted September 2025

Going back a few years to look at the inaugural Podere La Cappella Gran Selezione, a wine that joins the appellative fray for the first time out of a high quality vintage. The artist formerly labeled as IGT was last made in 2016 and here three years later it joins the Chianti Classico pyramid’s highest distinction. More barrel than the past and therefore spice, espresso and finally structure are really in. So much so you will still have to wait on the wine to integrate. First showing and the future will surely see to greater results. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018

Gaiole

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2018, Gaiole

First approach to a Ciona Gran Selezione from the team of Winemaker Lorenzo Gatteschi, Oenologist Dott.ssa Vincenza Folgheretti and Agronomist Dott. Marco Pierucci. The vintage was simply not the same in two places within the territory for Chianti Classico wines at all three appellative levels, but my goodness Gaiole is on display in the most glaring of hyperbole ways. Exaggerated riches of savour and so little time though who could have nothing but time for such an honest wine. Also a sangiovese of great heart that wears personality on its sleeve. Like the Riserva 2019, time has been kind to settle the herbaceous character and allow truth of fruit to walk side by side with acidity and resolved tannin. Fine work from the Ciona team for 24,000 bottles total, inclusive of Annata, Riserva, this Gran Selezione and two IGTs. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2026

Greve

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Monna Lisa 2018, Greve

Gran Selezione from 2018 is a liquid peppery and smouldering affair with three fruit sources – Vitigliano, Prato and Querceto. The main geological indication is Formazione di Sillano, high in clay, lower in limestone and manifesting as schist Galestro above ground. Yields are down to 33 hl per hectare and wood aging has so much to do with the show of such a Gran Selezione. Large cask and barriques, minimum 24 months and up to six months further in bottle. Already at the six and a half year mark and needing two more years to integrate. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2018, Vagliagli

Ready, willing and able, not surprising considering the late September push of heat, rise of sugars and expressly mature preparedness early in the wine’s life. Drinking beautifully today and should hold so forth for a decade.  Last tasted September 2025

A bit warmer in Vagliagli as compared to the surrounding UGAs in 2018. There was some rain at the beginning of September after a very hot summer and harvest required three passes because there was some mildew pressure. Grapes were ready and “going away faster.” You can feel some maturity but also the blessed beauty of Mocenni’s elements, in rocks and stones feeding roots with nutrients. Very mineral. Truly.  Tasted October 2023

Mocenni 89 is Vagliagli Gran Selezione born of tough decisions, love, prudent selection and know this. There are vineyards on Alberese and Galestro to choose from that steal the show, gifting fruit that will steal your heart and likely also take your breath away. This is 2018 in a void, vacuum and shuttered universe, fine and graceful, full and forceful, designed and cared for, nurtured like few other Chianti Classico sangiovese. A Chianti Classico exception at the peak of the pyramid that will drift, glide and age slowly for decades. That is what we call realizing potential. Drink 2025-2038.  Tasted February 2023

Older Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG

Greve

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2017, Greve

Not a major shock that 2017 is showing some age as the sangiovese come from hottest and driest years. Thank goodness the grapes come from elevation and vineyards surrounding by life refreshing woods so that some level of acidity motivating freshness can be maintained seven to eight years after vintage. Keeps the wine on it toes, going forward and gifting pleasure. Expect 10 more years of this, possibly more.  Last tasted November 2025

Bottled two years ago, a high elevation Ruffoli interpretation of Gran Selezione. The genesis is in experimentation going back to 2010, ever since single high altitude Greve (essentially Ruffoli) wines have been aged and bottled as themselves. Radda and Gaiole as well but let’s face it Greve is the core. Along the way a textural component was noted, fruit associated at its inner sentiment and then in 2017 it was found and assessed to be something really exceptional. Not a wine of wood (and this was aged in old grandi botti), but a Gran Selezione about transparency. The soil is Arenaria sandstone and Galestro which can’t help at this elevation to gift a hint of orange rind and an uncanny flintiness. Only Ruffoli smells like this and with tannins so tightly wound mixed with the intense liveliness of that 2017 acidity. The vintage was warm and dry from the beginning but plant adaptation meant no true suffering and these are vines at peace. Vibrancy at peak mixed with pure fruit emotion makes this Gran Selezione a true force of place and nature. Drink 2025-2038.  Tasted November 2021

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2016, Vagliagli

Freshnes captured, kept and persistent for the top drop from Mocenni nearly ten years after vintage. Just the first hint of secondary character starting two years into the drinking window of this wine. Still crisp an crunchy, Vagliagli acidity at peak and a wine of balanced temper, calm, tranquil and generous. Easily 10 years left to give.  Last tasted September 2025

Now ’16 is in a great if tight place but still so much potential and truth is a bit backwards at this stage. Length is outstanding and so potential will be long and so promising, timeless, as it is said.  Tasted October 2023

A Gran Selezione from the Mocenni Estate in a wonderful state of equilibrium and almost calm suspension, of fruit at the pinnacle of vineyard selection with only two passages whereby the “lesser” grapes are taken out and the finest fruit is left until the first week of October to fully mature. Two years in large Gamba oak vats, Was an IGT from 2006, first GS vintage 2010. Sure these grapes from this vintage were some of the most consistent and non-variable of any recent vintage but the uniformity makes for a string and true set of wines, especially from Mocenni and up to this appellative level.  Tasted October 2021

Mocenni takes all the advantage that 2016 can possibly pass its way and runs carefree into the wind. The fruit is pretty much as ripe as there can ever be in sangiovese struck by silver acidity and gold tannins, so you can imagine the result. This needs 10 years to fully unfurl, unwind and unfold. Please give it at least half that much time. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted February 2020

Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG

Castellina

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG 2008, Castellina

Current vintage. A mix of orange and walnut skins, maple syrup, molasses, raisins and as high a sugar content as they come. Earth, peat, fresh tobacco and a Single Malt Scotch finish. Heritage in a glass. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted October 2025

Toscana IGT

Bertinga Sassi Chiusi 2020, Toscana IGT

Sassi Chiusi, “closed stones,” a way to speak about the terroir, more like filled with stones, of schist and limestone, a.k.a Galestro from Argilla and Alberese. Mostly from Bertinga Vineyard, but also Vertine, between 400 and 520m. A blend that changes year to year, in this case 90 percent sangiovese with (10) merlot. Second selections from the blocks, a generous and exuberant Rosso with all the merits of fruit and wood intertwined. The merlot holds a surprising place of verdant and savour-dominant notoriety in this blend. Could very well just be the vineyards and their character layering upon one another. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Bertinga Volta di Bertinga 2019, Toscana IGT

Like Adine only made in the best vintages, with merlot from the Bertinga Vineyard at 380m meant to exist in space occupied by some of the best merlot in the world. A vineyard that supplies Gaiole acidity and savour, really tightly wound and conversely opulent, two complimentary personality traits essential to top quality merlot. Sees 18 months in barriques followed by ample time in bottle. Still the aromatic maturity so typical of Bertinga followed by serious flavours and longevity. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Bertinga Punta di Adine 2019, Toscana IGT

From Adine Vineyard at 520m, just 4.27 hectares and the location where the new winery is currently under construction. The pure sangiovese only produced in the best vintages, in 2017 and here in 2019. Ages 18 months in Stockinger cask. Grip and acidity for the true flagship wine that celebrates what really matters – sangiovese. Still there are ripe and mature notes going on, finishing clean after just the right and balanced level of weight and volume. Surely the wine that holds the potential to become the estate’s most important Gran Selezione, along with two others that are in production. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Bertinga 2018, Toscana IGT

Flagship of the winery from the Bertinga (estate) vineyard, of 50 percent each sangiovese and merlot. A couple of years older and showing aromatic maturity, each aged 18 months in wood, merlot in barriques and sangiovese in 25 hL Stockinger cask. Interesting and two-tined mix for which the palate shows more grip and potential. Aromas are dried fruit and weathered leather while flavours are brighter, while also chalkier. There is some power and also length from an IGT capable to age into further secondary life. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Bindi Sergardi Mocenni 91 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Toscana IGT

If tasting 2019 cabernet sauvignon is an exercise in patience than imagine what 2021 will be. Like working out for two years longer, getting stronger, fitter, more muscular and worthy of the cellar. What ’21 shows is truth in cabernet character, pyrazine and the best part of what we call green with a mix of herbs and savour, maybe even a little rub of exoticism, of rue and bay. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted September 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico 91 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Toscana IGT

Still very muscular with grip of intensity yet without any compromise to fruit. The movement will be slow and the complexities will continue to come along, just like the hits. Wait another year at the very least.  Last tasted September 2025

Varietal cabernet sauvignon from vines planted in 1980 on the Mocenni Estate in Vagliagli and the experience shows with power, finesse, elegance and intensity. Five years away (easy) and the Cassis is front and centre. Serious and beautiful, in control and charming. Impressive in a non sangiovese way. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted October 2023

Bindi Sergardi Merlot di Mocenni 2018, Toscana IGT

First taste of any vintage for Mocenni merlot of its own varietal accord because well, this is the first. Ripens earlier than sangiovese and if picked at the right time it can offer up the ideal mix of sweet fruit and verdant character. That would be Mocenni from Bindi Sergardi and while many Tuscan merlot may have decades’ worth of a lead, no matter because this joins the ranks with impressive haste. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Bucciarelli Antica Podere Casanova Langelo 2022, Toscana Rosato IGT

For 2022 Rosato is made as a varietal foliatonda, though it had previously been sangiovese and the method is essentially the same as the Bianco. That means 36-48 hours skin contact but without any wood aging and only stainless steel. Angelo, from Michelangelo, proprietor who acquired Podere Casanova on June 18, 1549. Just 11 percent alcohol, “because of the vintage” explains Mattia Bucciarelli, a warm one and so one might expect the opposite result. By contrast the cooler 2024 will produce a Rosé at 12.5 percent and better workable acidity, Go figure – climate change. Berries are all over this nose and herbal character is charged to the palate. The link between the two works. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted October 2025

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Langelo 2020, Toscano Bianco IGT

A Castellina (in Chianti) white blend made with 80 percent malvasia and trebbiano from century vines planted in 1926. The phenolic presence is remarkable, the mix of botanical elements and concentrated old vines savour with an influence by rosemary and fragrant yellow flowers. Sees 36-48 hours of skin contact and time in (40 percent) old barrels to come away oily, resinous and most unique tasting wine. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted October 2025

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Langelo 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

The foliatonda is used for Rosato and the young sangiovese joins merlot for the Rosso, here the 50-50 joint fermented and then aged in a combination of cement and old barriques. Will spend up to two years aging. Bit of reduction as much a matter of vintage as it is winemaking, earthy-savoury aromas and then increased natural red cherry fruit sweetness on the palate. Quite tannic and still needs more time. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted October 2025

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini 2024, Toscana Rosso IGT

The de-classified if only in paperwork sangiovese still from the priceless one hectare vineyard, best served to friends who want white wine but this light and fresh red will make them happy, and frankly not hungover. Crunchy, a baby Chianti Classico with the sweetest acidity and only joy. The heart swoons from such an honest and warmhearted wine. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Castello di Bossi Corbaia 2021, Toscana IGT

The IGT from the Bacci family born in 1985 but now some cabernet franc joins the cabernet sauvignon and 70 percent sangiovese. One quarter is new wood with used barrels up to four years. A single vineyard with the name Corbaia located near the castle taken from old maps. Reminds of classic Rioja with that sweet coconut note mixed with French vanilla and lavender. A Tuscan red blend from another era that defines the concept of an experienced consumer’s idea of Super Tuscan. Though obviously young one could wager this wouldn’t taste much different than a Corbaia from 2005 or 1985. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Castello di Bossi Girolamo 2021, Toscana IGT

The solo merlot artist and one that exists in the pantheon of top Tuscan examples although at Bossi it is made in a very modest and balanced way. “The land is more important than the grapes,” says winemaker Stefano Marinari, “and that is the idea of great terroir.” Also with merlot and the perfumes here are really special. Once again the wood is present with vanilla, lavender and a sweet nuttiness, here very much an integral part of the fabric and character of a distinct and never overpowering merlot. So well done. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Castello di Bossi Pinot Nero 2022, Toscana IGT

A trial with two hectares of pinot noir planted in 2016 for only 2,500 bottles produced almost exclusively for the Italian market. Not necessarily the most hospitable of locations for the grape but Stefano Marinari has great experience, having worked in New Zealand, Carneros and also many trips spent studying in Bourgogne. From 2021 there is depth and breadth without weight, overarching body or density. Finds the varietal identity while at the same time there is no missing the macchia, herbal-Amaro or Balsamico of Castelnuovo and Chianti Classico. “This is our strength,” says Marinari, “it’s powerful and we should celebrate it.” Also in pinot nero. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2020

From a 15th century nursery rhyme-like utterance, “chapon, chapon…,” suggestive of (15th-century statesman) Neri Capponi’s behaviour in the eyes of the King of France. Sangiovese with a tirage in March of 2021 and disgorgement in March of 2025. High acid (8.6 g/L), low, low pH and residual sugar at 12 g/L. Rusty Rosé colour, intensity that speaks to tasting far drier than it really is, crunchy with its distinct gingered profile. Like savoury sour candy without any remarkable sweetness. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Villa Calcinaia Tor Solis 2023, Toscana IGT

From Torsoli, “the tower of the rising sun,” exactly what the tower up on Monte San Michele oversees. Planted in 2012, of chenin blanc that takes years to develop because of sandy soil and elevation up at 720m. Not an authorized variety but “in observation,” and says Neri Capponi “if you plant it down here (in Montefioralle) you will make marmalade.” Not up in the Monti del Chianti where acidity and ultra spirited freshness bring chenin to life. With mild effervescence and just a hint of residual sugar. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Villa Calcinaia Comitale 2024, Toscano Bianco IGT

A non-filtered and unfined blend of grechetto, malvasia, trebbiano and petit manseng. A factor of grapes growing in an old vineyard planted in the late 1960s to varieties that were not supposed to be here. A flood in Florence from 1966 washed away the tags and so what was ordered did not translate into what was put in the ground. There is a natural feel to this phenolic white mix, a textural settling but also lift, both working the palate and without great tension. Feels like this is really getting somewhere and with a bit more vine age will be a seriously important Tuscan white wine. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Villa Calcinaia Rosato 2024, Toscano Rosato IGT

Only canaiolo, just free-run juice and a sapid expression that might come across as salty but either way it’s a mineral-elemental sensation driven by high pH. Also natural and wet cement humid with pungent herbs and preserved citrus. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted September 2025

Villa Calcinaia Occhiorosso 2022, Toscano Rosso IGT

One of the more unique red grape varieties anywhere and only grown by the Capponi in this part of the world. Though only 12.5 percent alcohol there is body and substance to this unicorn and frankly 2022, a hot vintage, seems ideal to develop its modernity and soften what would often be rustic, rough and tumble character. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Fontodi Meriggio 2024, Toscana Colli Centrale IGT

The sauvignon blanc for a sense of place, cured from September through May at low temperatures to preserve just what that needs to be. Freshest of vintages, crispy and spirited, perfect for a late afternoon siesta in the shade. A white wine no less subtle than a Manetti. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Fontodi Bianco 2024, Toscana Colli Centrale IGT

The 100 percent trebbiano and Bernardo Manetti’s concept white wine with an insistence on using a local variety and not something internationally ubiquitous. Comes from vines, not a vineyard, here, there and everywhere. Takes a good amount of time to pick and harvest exactness is essential if you want something special. Amphora did not quite work for aging and now the cigar shaped tonneaux is what works best. “A high quality white wine made by an estate that makes red wine,” says Manetti. This is no afterthought and in fact the execution is becoming a flawless one, elevating trebbiano to a place it deserves. “It’s absolutely impossible to make a wine like this from young vines,” adds Giovanni Manetti. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Fontodi Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2021, Toscana Centrale IGT

Yes you might consider opening a Flaccianello ’21 with a decant but a taste today still shows unresolved power and a chalky grain in the tannin. With that in mind there needs to be another 18 months in bottle to get this into a next period of resolution. Three or more will see fruit open and currently impenetrable fortressed elements begin their period of relent.  Last tasted September 2025

It’s really quite simple. In 1981 Giovanni Manetti, Franco Bernabei and some of the farmers identified the Flaccianello vineyard parcels as the ones that produced the best grapes. They being Pecille, La Cappellina and Poggio. The sandstone Pietraforte in these three plots produce the smallest berries with the highest quality of acidity, poly-phenols and fruit concentration. This is what creates Giovanni Manetti’s best expression of Conca d’Oro sangiovese. At this time the nose shows power and a spiciness that’s closer to Vigna del Sorbo than any of the other Fontodi wines but here the richness is unparalleled and also the wood that accentuates the expressive nature. This will only improve with two more years in bottle.  Tasted April 2025

The village of Flacciano, the old Latin name that became Panzano, though there is still a place in the vineyard’s valley that bears the name. The name of the church where the cross was located in that valley before the 18th century. The church where you made a payment of “indulgenza,” so that HE would pardon and gift your place in paradise. The 2021 is a truly generous if still shy Flaccianello of that necessary wish for balance between substantial fruit and structure, high acidity and an overflowing mouthful of pure sangiovese. Seems to taste lighter and hide alcohol, so much more so than it is truly built upon and the age ability is very great. No other sangiovese expresses the luxe and voluptuous capabilities of sangiovese grown on Pietraforte in Panzano like Flaccianello. That’s just a fact and yes it is true that some see this archetype in terms of densities and ponderosity. Consider what matters most. Balance determines outcome and 2021 is right there where it needs to be. Drink 2027-2039.  Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2012, Toscana Centrale IGT

Beautiful warm summer but never too hot with a usual late August thunderstorm after Ferragosto to cool down temps. Fine September leading to ripeness, red fruit, freshness and captured acidity. The vintage is the first time aging in small barrels was reduced with the introduction of larger casks for the final four to six moths of the total 24. The plan was to reduce the oxygen exchange, release fruit, decrease austerity and ultimately bring about balance. The acidity is Panzano and so the fruit, like Chianti Classico, is crispy. The energy has been released, likely having begun four to five after vintage and now at 13 there has been no wane. In fact the wine waxes forward and the full Flaccianello moon will come in another four, followed by four-plus more years of vigour. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted September 2025

Fontodi Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2009, Toscana Centrale IGT

Not as warm as 2012, a more regular vintage with grape size and concentration bigger and lesser. Also lots of production and while the nose is less expressive there is a wealth of vibrancy and flavour to taste. A smoother and more suave attack with tension after a more earthy and “sous bois” nose. There is nurture and caress in how the wine takes care of you when it pauses on the palate and by now there is no aggression or angst. For those who go straight to the mouth with a glass of sangiovese this will offer the wow factor experience. Giovanni Manetti suggests Risotto with pigeon and porcini. Please. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2023, Toscana IGT

A four-poster blend of 40 percent each cabernet sauvignon and merlot with (15) cabernet franc and (5) petit verdot. Plants originally grafted over sangiovese and truthfully there are no Bordeaux blends in Chianti Classico vineyards that make an IGT red blend like this. Shows a different side of the territory or rather expresses the beautiful tannins possible even when the wine is young. Stemmy to be sure in a composed and nurturing way with all the correct and gentle greens pulled, elevated and exposed. Fineness from the hard to manage 2023 vintage. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Monte Bernardi Tzingana 2021, Toscana IGT

The gypsy wine, 45 percent merlot, (20 each) cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, plus (15) petit verdot. Even stemmier then the Tzingarella and all the better for it, juxtaposed against the sweetness of fruit in a way the other Bordeaux red does not fully express. Concentration and beauty work together for equal and complimentary satisfaction. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Monte Bernardi Vigne Vecchia 2024, Bianco CTC IGT

From a 1968 vinyerad of malvasia with 10 percent trebbiano, the first time its has been bottled or “that we talk about and happy to show,” admits Michael Schmelzer. A several year experiment come to this and the feeling is of a primary style or expression yet to see its fruition or intended destination. Time in bottle will surely develop new aromas, flesh and flavours that don’t seem to rise right now. Would like to see another year pass by before trying again. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Nittardi Ben Vermentino 2024, Maremma DOC

Ben, for Benjamino, name given to the last born, from sandy soils in Maremma. One day quick maceration, clarified by temperature, racked to a new tank, 30 days of fermentation. Full ripeness and a salty streak run through, somewhat phenolic and a sign of the warming times. Picked in the night for coolest grapes leading to all available freshness captured. A new style for Nittardi beginning in 2023 and thank goodness because this is the necessity to control alcohol and keep the vermentino light in its feet. Acidity really ties the wine together, raising the bar on the back end. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted November 2025

Nittardi Ad Astra Rosso 2023, Maremma DOC

A blend of sangiovese and three Bordeaux varieties, of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. From the same sandy soils where the vermentino grows, a macchia inflected, dry and dusty Rosso, taut, nosing liquorice and tar. Crispy on the crusted exterior, the interior chewy with dried plummy fruit leather. Warm place and a warming wine but alcohol kept in check, wood used judiciously for one year in large cask. A proper Rosso made for the right reasons and in the right way. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted November 2025

Nittardi Nectar Dei Rosso 2021, Maremma DOC

A mix of the two cabernets with petit verdot, rich and concentrated, finishing at 15 percent. For the big body, big wine crowd, owners’ friends, they who want it all in their fashionable and stylish red wine. The Bistecca Fiorentina Rosso, opposite of Chianti Classico kind of sangiovese many sip and consider to be light bodied. Some grainy tannin owing to the Maremma soil and climate does the rest. Winemaking plays a role but truthfully the place and the weather do all the heavy lifting. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted November 2025

Podere Ciona Semifonte 2021, Toscana IGT

A three to one ratio of extremely low-yielding merlot out of a two hectare vineyard and a smaller plot of alicante bouschet, their soils being mixed geology of quartz arenite sandstones, clay, schist & marl. Vines are now approximately 22 years of age, very much in that sweet spot for productivity and quality, especially from the 2021 vintage where ripeness meets Gaiole’s uniquely savoury acidity. Also the fortune due to elevations (490-550m), well above the dangerous frost zone that stole so much from the territory in this vintage. A fraction of tonneaux but mostly 30 hL botti are the aging vessel source for Semifonte, a name that memorializes Valdelsa, the 12th-century fortified city situated at a strategic trade crossroads to rival that of Florence. Super classic Tuscan merlot with Chianti Classico acidity exaggerated by elevation. Dusky mix of verdant and black fruit character, layered, energetic, expressive. A striploin tagliata di manzo and parmigiano shavings seems just about right. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted January 2026.

Podere Ciona La Diacce 2017, Toscana IGT

Essentially a solo merlot artist (with three percent alicante bouschet) from fruit raised at elevation and as per the systemic Ciona approach the wood usage is varied, in medium and also size; barriques & tonneaux (a mix of Allier, Nievre, Tronçais and Vosges), along with botti grandi, 15 to 30 hL casks. Diacce, meaning “frozen, or icy,” a local Tuscan variation of the Italian ghiaccia and somewhat ironic for a red produced in a place where climate is warming, especially from the driest and hottest vintage on record. Just a couple of vintages prior the alcohol would have been comfortably below 14 percent and here the number is 14.5, still measured, moderate and reasonable with elevation (up to 550m) the catalyst to maintain acidity and breathe freshness through the merlot. Merlot so indelibly concentrated and varietally stamped to be considered with some of Tuscany’s best. La Diacce may be the most impressive merlot you’ve never heard of. Or perhaps you have and wish the secret would not have gotten out. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2026.

Podere La Cappella Oriana Vermentino 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Named for Natascia Rossini’s mother Oriana, a varietal vermentino that was produced until 1999, vines ripped out and then Bruno Rossini decided to replant in 2014. Rarely aged in wood, only stainless steel with grapes (normally) harvested between the times of merlot and sangiovese. The wait is for the golden colour coming into browning. After harvest the wine stays refrigerated at four degrees for two weeks before pressing. Warm vintage and the result is a boozy vermentino, grippy and strong, a Chiantigiana as opposed to a coastal example. Could be a red wine, in a lateral, not literal way. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Podere La Cappella Cantico 2016, Toscana IGT

From the vines originally planted to chardonnay and vermentino, later grafted with merlot. A high acid captured varietal wine for Chianti Classico vineyards and also Toscana with ample richness yet never too much and more energy than many. It has freshness and this in spite of 60 percent new barriques although the generosity and nurturing are in full view. Top vintage and with nine years in the bag there is still very little movement by this time. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Podere La Cappella Corbezzolo 2016, Toscana IGT

Yet another Podere La Cappella 2016 in terrific shape even though the Cantico merlot ’16 has developed a year or two less than this sangiovese. A democratic vintage has become an even more democratic nine year-old wine in balance, calm and with more than ample energy to keep moving ahead. Three or four more years will be lived in this state.  Last tasted September 2025

Finest selection of sangiovese grapes, always having been labelled as IGT yet going forward from 2019 it will become Gran Selezione. There was time when it seemed as if Podere La Cappella would be one of the last to embrace the appellation but when yo have sangiovese as particular and expressive as Corbezzolo you may as well get with the program. Serious lift, elevating sangiovese to lofty status and a most structured wine with wood a much more accenting factor as compared to the Chianti Classico wines. Good and sapid, fresh and fine. Remains to be seen if the team will stay this course for a GS-designate Classico. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted May 2023

Podere La Cappella Cantico 2003, Toscana IGT

In 2003 Bruno Rossini’s vines would have matured to 22-23 years of age, easily in the zone and purposed to create some of the Chianti Classico territory’s finest merlot. The bottle has now been open for more than an hour and there has been not a moment’s fade or decline. The vibrancy and freshness blow like winds in strong from the Ligurian Sea and energy does not wane. A warm vintage as well and so there is a lactic creaminess that was not noted in either the ’98 or ’99. Still there is great beauty and philanthropy from 2003 Cantico. It sings. Drink 2025-207.  Tasted September 2025

Podere Poggio Scalette Chiara Aurora 2024, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

A blend of trebbiano toscano (from 100 plus year-old Il Carbonaione Vineyard vines) and chardonnay (from the small Richiari Vineyard), the latter originally made for the Pinchori restaurant in Florence. Named for Jurji Fiore’s second daughter, the trebbiano in steel and the chardonnay in wood, blended and set on a seamless collision course where freshness and verticality work as one. Tuscan of course but its DNA is Ruffoli, of winds and elevation, old vine acumen and generational abidance. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 2022, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

The centre, focal point and heart of Poggio Scalette is Il Carbonaione, “the charcoal pit,” a most functional sangiovese from high elevation up on the Ruffoli hill where the top is delivered. The 2022 comes across in an opposite way you might expect with more lift and freshness as compared to 2021 and this from a hotter vintage. Irrigation has something to do with keeping the vines safe from hydric stress, shutting down and then having to rapidly speed to sugar ripeness. The phenolic quality is finer in 2022 and therefore the richness of ’21 transcends to more elasticity and length from 2022. In conclusion the 2022 Il Carbonaione will exist in a small bubble occupied by the best Gran Selezione and (near) 100 percent IGT sangiovese of the vintage. Drink 2028-2038.  Tasted September 2025

Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 2021, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

One of the truest field blends in the Chianti Classico territory because the original plants in the Il Carboniaone Vineyard are not only alive but still thrive, relatively speaking. A block planted in the latter half of the 1920s, mainly to sangiovese but with any or all of other red and white varieties, of mammolo, colorino, canaiolo, malvasia, trebbiano and occhiorosso. Today newer plantings of sangiovese work to decrease the other varietal percentage, once as much as 10, now perhaps somewhere between three and five. A small amount of American oak surely changes the profile although the main point is the vineyard and the experience of the 100 year-old vines, naturally concentrating their grapes, providing equal and opposing acidity, proving the worth of preserving old vines, their DNA and the perpetual delivery of distinct sangiovese. There may be peers and yet there is no peer. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted September 2025

Podere Poggio Scalette Capogato 2022, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

Capogato, “the head of the cat,” but there is no connection with cats. It was actually chosen in connection with “propagine,” a name of cutting a cane of a vine to create a new one in the time of phylloxera. Capogato is the Bordeaux blend that includes cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. Luxe vintage of this “Vino di Vittorio Fiore” originally created by Alessandro and Jurji Fiore’s father but as always the wind and elevation of the Ruffoli Hill will never be denied. This means freshness and lift with a local Balsamico edginess with thanks to surrounding woods and the ever present saltiness, also from Volpe Vineyard. Only certain, specific and intentional red blends in the territory reach this level of execution. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted September 2025

Podere Poggio Scalette Piantonaia 2022, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

As with the original chardonnay this 100 percent merlot was also created for Enoteca Pinchiori in Florence back in 1999. A silky, liquid chalky and sweet acidity-determined solo red with new French barriques creating the spice, accenting the Balsamico and mostly influencing texture. Loved by many, small production only reserved for a few and of a style executed with great skill. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Ritorno 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

Only sangiovese in stainless steel with a name that refers to a return, 46 years after the flood of Florence forced the Cusano family to emigrate to Canada in 1966. Now back at Poggio Torselli with a sku freshsest and lightest of the two IGTs, crunchy like the Bizzarria, aged less time than than a Chianti Classico and and bottled as IGT. The simpler (yet different) as compared to the Bordeaux-dominated Mispiego. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Mispiego 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

A blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (20) merlot and (10) sangiovese and a name that means “let me explain myself.” In the words of Mr. Cusano and an IGT classically wooded, spiced and textured. A complete contrast to the Ritorno, much bigger wine and stylistically comparable to similar IGTs made in Tuscany. Then again there is a San Casciano-ness that will not be denied nor can it be removed form the effect of the wine. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2024, Toscana Bianco IGT

Skin-macerated white wine, 50 percent for 15 days and the other half 35 days. Concrete fermentation, sent to wood vats, returned to stainless for a few months of settling and preservation of freshness. Feels like pressed grapefruit roll-up, natural sugars and acids concentrated, texture intensified and laying a unique paste upon the palate. Then again a lighter and brighter vintage as compared to previous results of this wine. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2024, Toscana Rosato IGT

Made primarily with the almost lost to the world pugnitello, blended withs sangiovese and of the three Bizzarria wines it is the most definitive of its namesake. A Christmas cookie spice cupboard of a Rosé, crunchy and endless tang, gingery and tart. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted September 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2024, Toscana Rosso IGT

Just released from the cool, wet, long hanging sangiovese season, processed in concrete vats from “A to Z.” The lightest, most transparent and crunchy of sangiovese, served chilled, nearly void of structure and high in pyrazine. A challenging year to make this wine and its natural greens are obvious and exaggerated from 2024. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted September 2025

Querciabella Camartina 2021, Toscana IGT

Camartina, the Ruffoli hill joint between cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese, dating back four-plus decades, first vintage in 1981 and for the first 17 or 18 years was sangiovese led. Now cabernet sauvignon directs the cause and dominates the cumulative effect. More than ever the profile is cabernet, dark purple to black berries, fully macerated and with a necessary savoury, even Mediterranean feel. Like black olives and macchia though fruit and suave (if fine-grained) tannin in early stages account for this wine’s control. The culminating principle remains years away. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted November 2025

Querciabella Camartina 2013, Toscana IGT

Eleven to 12 year-old blend of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese from a really great vintage for ulterior wines made in the Chianti Classico territory. More than impressive freshness, persistent in its drive to keep learning and developing nuance. A vague sense of blood orange resides behind the still chalky dark berry fruit and tannins continue to make their presence heard, if more confidentially understood. Terrific vintage for a wine of highest territorial caste. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted November 2025

Querciabella Batàr 2023, Toscana IGT

There are few white wine peers to Batàr, the blend with a track record and playfully sordid history, if only because it once was labeled with (to some annoyed French) as a controversial name. Oldest chardonnay and pinot bianco wines have aged well into their 30s for a wine not only conceived but stylistically evolved into one of the most thoughtful white wines made anywhere in Italy. Progressive and modern in ways that bely any stuck in the mud notion of tradition. There is unction and a feeling of glück to 2023, owing to the barrel aging no doubt, also an invitation to drink as soon as you feel you are ready to try. The ’23 and ’22 are terrific examples of Batàr, as juxtapositions of its thoughtfulness in two very different vintages. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted November 2025

Querciabella Batàr 2022, Toscana IGT

For 2022 Batàr is a confidently composed and linear expression of Querciabella’s most cerebral wine. Also a white blend with more spice, backbite and crispy quality than what will be noted out of 2023. Finding this counterintuitive to what we know about the two vintages but toss the Chianti Classico expectations out the window to allow Batàr to express what Batàr is want to express. The inversions are real and this white blend will in fact change your idea of 2022, especially as compared with 2023. A year makes a serious difference and so 2022 now tells us something of what it will someday become. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted November 2025

Rocca Di Montegrossi Geremia 2020, Toscana IGT

Somewhat of a change in composition for 2020, this time at 71 percent merlot with (29) cabernet sauvignon and so the merlot-dominated plush softness of say 2018 is stiffened and made just that much more tannic by the added quantity of cabernet sauvignon. There is always a welcome level of Bordelais meets Monti in Chianti seduction about Geremia, the Rocca di Montegrossi IGT which might literally mean “appointed by God.” We can agree on one thing, that which concerns a red blend to exult and uplift its two grape varieties and place, complimentary to one another in every aspect of their connectivity. Geremia 2020 is built for aging, that much we also know, likely longer than 2018 and also the most serious 2015, a vintage considered excellent for sangiovese and even more beneficial to the Bordeaux grapes raised in this Gaiole UGA of the Chianti Classico territory. Stash these ’20s deep in the cellar and feel confident their longevity will extend 20 years from vintage. Drink 2027-2039.  Tasted January 2026

Tenuta Casenuove Ziik Rosé Vino Spumante

First pick of the sangiovese where vigour is the highest, Ziik being French slang for music. Crispy and driest of Charmat method sparkling wine, a personal taste and reflection of the winemakers. Just three point five g/L of residual sugar, chalky and thirst quenching. If only a few million bottles of Prosecco were more like this, but then again this might not stand out in a large gathering. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted November 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Spanda Metodo Classico

Five years on the lees for lower slope Radda sangiovese from a vineyard called Spanda, “the pulse of life,” north facing opposite Montevertine. Low triage and disgorged in April for 5,000 bottles, vaguely resembling Rosé with a hint of pink only when the light catches it just so. Gently oxidative and calmly autolytic, teasing though never going into bronzing character and just walking that fine, on the right side of that line. Will look forward to seeing a fraction more tension from the next and the next. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Pianvecchio 2024, Toscana Bianco IGT

North facing looking at Montevertine, “the coldest place I could find,” says Sean O’Callaghan, “and I’m against using non Tuscan grapes, but I needed riesling.” And so 50-50 with vermentino with a hint, but just a hint of macerated grapes. German riesling that is and the naturally orchestrated chemical reaction turns this into something other, maybe with an Österreich-ness perhaps (more in the vein of grüner veltliner) but also Marche verdicchio. A stretch perhaps but in this joint neither grape dominates and seamlessly they reach a phenolic steppe together. Ripe style, clean, cool and refreshing. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone 2024, Toscana Rosato IGT

Only sangiovese and “I actually like Rosé,” says Sean, “you can drink it for breakfast, and I’ve never seen a family drink so much of the stuff.” Meaning his Austrian partners who spritz it up and climate change has delivered the new Rosé promise. Now eight to ten bunches are kept, allowing for 13 to 13.5 percent alcohol, instead of four bunches picked earlier at 15 percent. The Rosé is the first pick and also the bunches slower to ripen. Just 10.6 percent though rounded up to 11, for regulations. Goes though just a little bit of malo post alcoholic fermentation for that extra bit of texture on the palate. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Il Randagio 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

Randagio, “the one-eyed stray English Bulldog,” 50-50 merlot and cabernet franc, four to five months on skins and only in concrete. Use of whole bunches and stems to avoid the blueberry metillio but truth is Sean would never plant merlot, or anything non-Tuscan, except riesling. In the vintage gamay is a closer comparison than let’s say a G-S-M. Natural in wine and label but not in attitude or marketing. Also not natty enough, nor is it scrumpy, or perhaps it’s all just dumb luck. Randagio is an example of a red wine being led in a direction, one that both it and its maker wanted to go. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Uno 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

Just three months in bottle from the warmer vintage, longer in that regard than 2021 and certainly harder to achieve top drop freshness like the coming 2023. Yet that has to be the goal and to seek a sangiovese with ultra Raddese character, action and emotion. In a way lighter than 2021 but colour and texture are of a more developed character, with more fruit and less elemental push. Not bigger per se but with an uptick in alcohol and more ruminative texture for the chewing palate. Feels like Chianti Classico and Il Guercio were the real benefactors of the vintage. Drink earlier and in a tighter window than 2021. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Uno 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

A selection out of the cellar, of the best samples assessed by the team as having the highest wow factor. You could imagine Bourgogne or Langhe, of pinot noir or nebbiolo but by now Uno is sangiovese of its own Raddese accord. Cleaner and less obviously natural than it was just two years before while still with a varietal meets barrel spiciness. It could be considered fastidious but would actually be precipitous to pass quick judgement and announce where this important wine fits within its own history. There are 2019 and 2016, there is 2022 and then this 2021 which speaks in the clearest Radda vernacular. That matters now and a few years from now something other may potentially elicit new feeling and emotion. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Carleone Il Guercio 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

Made from a single vineyard in Lamole, “I’ve always loved Lamole,” says Sean O’Callaghan. A two hectare, “beautiful romantic little place and we turn it into something.” Fermented in bins, six months on the skins, pressed in April, topped and locked in tanks for those six months. Yes its got the perfume of Lamole because it does not matter what you do – you can’t escape it. Lamole’s greenery will not be denied, nor should anyone want it to disappear. Stalks and skins polymerize in an essential way to elasticize and even soften the end result. Grippy however and just beginning the first stages of its long journey ahead. Stealth, chiaroscuro, structure hidden in the shadows. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted September 2025

Tenuta di Montefoscoli Vermentino Fontemaggio 2023, Costa Toscana IGT

From the Colle Pisani where the coast meets inland terroir and Etruscan winemaking has been documented to 1428. What is known are the locations of the area’s most important vineyards whose grapes were the first to be purchased at auction. Fontemaggiore (and Vacevoli) were two of those top blocks, their soils built of compacted sandy limestone with blue marls and many sea fossils. These defining morphological aspects of the geology explain that the formation is really quite young. Vermentino comes away salty but also fuller of body, in part because of aging in cocciopesto amphora made just 10 kms away by a company…wait for it…called Drunk Total. The remainder sees tonneaux, small ceramic amphora and stainless steel. There is a purity about this, owing to it being a varietal wine and handling which honours older traditions. A true discovery and one that copies no other. 165 cases produced. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted November 2025

Tenuta di Montefoscoli Bianco Vacevoli 2024, Costa Toscana IGY

Most important white for the Tenuta is this Vacevoli, from Montefoscoli in the commune of Palaia inland from the sea at Livorno, southeast of Pisa, south of Lucca, closest village being Peccioli. The farm was abandoned and recently purchased in 2018 by the Castellani family, originally having been a Tabaccaia (where tobacco leaves were processed) and thus the winery is called La Tabaccaia. In 2023 next generation winemaker Giacomo Castellani took over and began his precocious tenure heading up the project. Oldest vines were planted in in the mid 1990s, since renovated and are now mixed with the post 2018 planted vermentino. This cuvée also includes some late harvested vermentino at the beginning of October, along with viognier and petit manseng. The latter is aged in 15L Austrian barrels before all are blended and aged in cocciopesto amphora. The sum total is a viscous, lees-affected white, bright and fresh, churned in the middle, then phenolic and finishing at marzipan. Perhaps an influence at first that feels like Bourgogne but that is soon replaced by a northern Rhône inflection. The latter feels more appropriate to consider, first as a matter of terroir and second to consider the spirit and emotion of the wine. 40 cases produced. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted November 2025

Tenuta di Montefoscoli Sangiovese Santandrea 2022, Costa Toscana IGT

A cuvée from selected parcels, the mix of small and large berries coming from within one bunch, though going forward winemaker Giacomo Castellani plans to include only the larger berries within the bunches. Castellani seeks a modern methodology, but his old soul is steeped in Tuscan tradition. The bunches are de-stemmed, never crushed, fermented and macerated in open wooden vats for approximately 60 days. “Targeted” punch downs and following alcoholic fermentation the skins are sunk in the wine to start the process of “infusion.” Travel to Pessac-Léognan to see this at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion by winemaker Guillaume Pouthier to understand the magic that can happen. A small portion of this Santandrea is transferred to French wood, the remainder continuing in wood vats for 12 months. For now this sangiovese acts as a soft and nurturing, easy-going, clean and getable sangiovese from Montefoscoli in the Colli Pisani. Further experience and subsequent vintages should re-write the script for sangiovese from this ancient winemaking area. 110 cases produced. Drink 2025–2027.  Tasted November 2025

Vignamaggio Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio 2019, Toscana IGT

Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio, a varietal wine with a nice ring to it from the six hectare (single) vineyard facing east below the Vignamaggio villa in Greve on the east bank of the river. Sees 18 months in wood and a true unicorn in every sense of the concept. The vineyard is called Solatio where rocks and stones fill up the terra and there is a unique savoury element, almost unplaceable in this wine. Green but not in the cabernet franc ways of the Loire or Ontario. A natural sweetness like no other in the whole of the territory with this grape exulted to a level that speaks to its viability. The vines exposition facing the Chianti Mountains surely plays a significant role in the relationship between cabernet franc and where it will fare best. Vignamaggio is seriously on to something. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted September 2025

Good to go!

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