Category Archives: Piedmont

The Wine Diaries: old world reds

Mario Laporta, AFP/Getty Images

Tasting through many wines in a short time requires focus. While it would not be considered stressful or difficult, the test is something I would wish for all my friends to try. Steadfast loyalty in regard of wine everywhere is my impetus behind these  ‘Old World’ tasting notes, that is, from Europe.

Related – More notes from the VINTAGES June 23, 2012 release

With each passing vintage, the line blurs between old and new world as modern techniques are employed by the most traditional of producers. Still we see the vintners from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany continuing to share a common sentiment. Great wine is made in the vineyard.

France

Domaine De Champ De Cour Moulin-à-Vent 2010 (430876, $17.95) plays more like a champ than the national footballers. Mommesin’s Beaujolais is dabbed with pretty smells, especially ripe cherries. Soft tosses junk but gets them dancing and swinging. What pure Gamay the varietal is all about.  88

Château Des Capucins 2009 (279992, $19.95) of Bordeaux’s Right Bank in Lalande de Pomerol is rigged with heavy Brettanomyces and wet, leathery sails. Strong, sturdy and inky like Syrah from the Languedoc. Jury is out on this one.  NR

Château Tronquoy-Lalande 2004 (279984, $29.95) offers a reasonable look at Left Bank St-Estephe nearly ten years on. Similar nosing characteristic like the Capucins at first but here it’s just a regular kind of funk. A boondoggle of fresh energy abounds, with earth and spice. Bordeaux forest for the leaves.  Lovely CVR** potential.  89

Château De Lancyre Coste D’aleyrac 2010 (74765, $19.95) opens distinctively Syrah in both violaceous aura and hue. Considered to be of the Languedoc, the tone and redolent cherry-red Grenache also speaks directly of Pic Saint Loup, the true, though not yet defined appellation. Could drink this all the time.  90

Château De Nages JT Costières de Nîmes 2009 (736876, $21.95) is mostly Syrah with a small percentage of Mourvèdre. A hillock covered in blueberries entices a mellow ascent but the nightshade is pulled over the palate by a capsicum stinger. Quality Southern Rhône that needs two years minimum to settle in.  89

Le Gravillas Sablet 2010 (78790, $14.95) does simple Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages for the masses. Crystalized berries in every way. Dialed in.  86

Château Vincens Cuvée Prestige 2009 (272427, $14.95) from Malbec’s home of Cahors remains true to the region’s ‘black’ wine effect. Then a blueberry molasses modern take plays havoc on extraction’s oldest trick in the book. A huge thwack of tannin grips from behind. A suspendable offence by such an inexpensive Malbec.  85

Germany

Schloss Reinhartshausen Dry Pinot Noir 2007 (40543, $15.95) always intrigues and only Rheingau Pinot noses like this. Mild mushroom meets blanched almond. Surprising verve in balance and length.  87

Italy

Umberto Cesari Sangiovese Di Romagna Riserva 2008 (33399, $18.95) from Emilia-Romagna in Northern Italy is meaty, musty and frankly smells like “un pezzo di merda.” Like Oeste’s Pêra Rocha dropped from the tree and ready for baby sauce.  Or the near disastrous effort of Sunday’s national Football team.  84

Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2009 (275859, $22.95) barks more black dog and caws less crow in opposition to the mascot on the appellation’s logo. Heavy metal packaging and tenebrous complexion, “with eyes that shine burnin’ red.” A Zeppelin of heavy lead on the edge of Sangiovese’s limits. More IGT than Chianti really and sensory overload of deliciousness if you like the modern style.  89

Lamole Di Lamole Vignetto Campolungo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (231241, $36.95) blows past the 27 month ageing requirement for CC Riserva and thankfully so. The massive fruit and tannin interchange needs the oak. This CCR ventures up around the bend and all over the map. “You can ponder perpetual motion” like this Campolungo, moving backwards and forwards. Bold and beautiful, the Lamole is complex and bloody coagulating Sangiovese.  90

Le Sughere Di Frassinello 2009 (25700, $29.95) the modish Sangioveto dominated blend from Tuscany’s coastal Maremma is an encrusted, purgative Etruscan. Saucy, sugary pomegranate, crushed tomato concentrate and acidic ossein.  90

Lionello Marchesi Coldisole Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (281238, $41.95) seems muffled, not unlike this house’s very good ’97 seemed in 2003. Currently medium in body with an oil slick of resinous fruit working towards a bright future.  89

Mastrojanni San Pio 2008 (944603, $30.95) is a not so common Cabernet-based Montalcino blend with 20% local Brunello grapes to keep it real. There is a citrus drive and berry spice but really nothing specifically Tuscan about it. The taxi is speeding through the piazza but the wheels are in neutral.  87

Le Ragose Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007 (991984, $18.95) quite convincingly sticks Veneto at the centre of a bulls-eye. Nuts and chocolate Ragusa nougat, ox suet and potpurri polish.  87

Monte Zovo Sa’Solin Ripasso Valpoliccella 2009 (650713, $17.95) begins with Brett, airs out and then simplifies for red sauce pasta. Misses the mineral boat of Le Ragose.  85

Lebanon

Cave Kouroum Petit Noir 2007 (260141, $14.95) from the Bekaa Valley intimates Pinot Noir in a Kiwi sort of way. Soft, easy going, “mafi mushkila” to be charmed by its flavours.  86

Musar Jeune 2009 (178079, $17.95) from the esteemed producer and their entry-level juice. Unfortunately a corked bottle.  NR

Portugal

Quinta Do Quetzal Reserva 2007 (277376, $27.95) out of Alentejo will, I’m hoping, take it on the cheek or chin when “faced with a dodo’s conundrum.” That I might consider this blind to be an Australian Shiraz/Cabernet blend or South African Pinotage means the fake Chinese rubber plant quotient in uncommonly high. Botox treated plastica of the head and from knee to ankle.  86

Sogrape Reserva Douro 2008 (335208, $17.95) works Portugal’s most famous locale with clean, crisp, modern drive. The vanilla oak is obvious along with cedar mulch and savoury, floral scents. Medium heft, solid, continental and conventional.  87

Spain

Barón de Magaña 2007 (280552, $17.95) was corked.

Bodegas Olarra Cerro Añon Gran Reserva 2004 (190827, $24.95) made of 80% Tempranillo with smatterings of Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Regnant for today’s Rioja movement. An ampelographer might be required to place the Millerized Olarra but no matter. This Gran Reserva is to Rioja what resolved, mellifluent Chianti Classico Reserva is to Tuscany. Easy on the eyes, nose, mouth and throat.  88

Langa Tradicion Centenaria Garnacha 2008 (194795, $13.95) is a repeat performance. Like the 2007 from Calatayud, the two Garnachas act out a simple, sugary and leavened oak fruit play to a standing “O.”  86

Ramón Bilbao Reserva 2005 (281097, $17.00)  does Rioja with IVR* spirit. Hewn, leathery texture and a perfume river of aromatics leading to a petal strewn pagoda’s steps. Musk of melon and ox lingers on the lawn. Subtle and captivating.  88

Torres Gran Segre De Toro Reserva 2008 (315648, $15.95) of Catalunya is a hircine of horse’s hooves. Mocha java oaks its way into the stable of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah.  86

Tossals Junior 2006 (278135, $18.95) emblematizes the new Montsant. One third Carinena is grippy and laborious to chew through at present. A second third lavender and raspberry Garnacha are more welcoming but it’s the last third that does the real wooing. Cabernet Sauvignon on loan from Bordeaux joins near-sectarian Tempranillo to win over fans. Soporific and yet the blend is a tough nut to crack.  87

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

Five red wine values to buy now for the coming long weekend

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/25/five-red-wines-to-buy-now-for-the-coming-long-weekend/

In my world there are so many wines and so little time. Perhaps in yours the wall of choices seems daunting but a bit of deconstruction is really all you need. A good Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Shiraz or Malbec work just fine on most days. I look to champion varietals outside the box. Portugal and lesser known Italian appellations are a very good place to start.

Trending wine values

The grapes: A blend of Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional and Jaen

The history: Made by Agricola Castro de Pena Alba from indigenous varietals

The lowdown: Not all $12 Portuguese wines are this good, but I’d take my chances

The food match: Breaded Veal Sandwich with roasted, pickled red peppers

Serrado Colheita 2008 (283192, $11.95) from the emerging Dão is a big wine for $12! Tar, Hyacinth and Cravo with a mini citrus accent. Simple machine with juicy acidity and bite. A cake cut by a knife that’s “got a serrated edge that she moves back and forth.” Terrific IVR*.  87

The grape: Montepulciano

The history: Native to Abruzzo in east-central Italy

The lowdown: Modern Abruzzi winemakers are producing exceptional wines at affordable prices

The food match: Pasta with Braised Beef Short Ribs and Tomato

Niro Montepulciano D’abruzzo 2009 (278150, $15.95) dictates a directive towards low and slow fricasseed meats in their demi-glace with fresh summer tomatoes. De Niro is positively and cognitively possessed of a Machiavellian intelligence. A modern emperor and actor speaking perfect English, a vernacular host with the most. Projects a prejudiced discourse of atramentous espresso and haw.  88

The grape: Malbec

The history: Native to Bordeaux and Cahors in the southwest of France

The lowdown: Found its varietal fame in Argentina. This is a bold pick at a premium level.

The food match: Grilled Flank Steak in chile, parsley and olive oil marinade

The Seeker Malbec 2009 (271213, $18.95) is one of five global wines made by a marketing juggernaut, each featuring a specific grape growing region. Inspired by the musings of fictitious metalsmith/flying machine inventor Esteban Colombo from Mendoza, Argentina. Colombo is part Frank Lloyd Wright, part Leonardo Da Vinci. Like the man, the Seeker is an international wine of mystery. I rarely drink $19 Malbec, but when I do, I drink The Seeker. “I’ve been searching low and high” but here is a Malbec of an acceptable oaky smell like it’s just been out walking in the countryside. An herbal remedy, Malbec from and for the world, not really Mendozan at all, and that’s OK. I just might really like this.  89

The grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

The history: Native to Bordeaux in France

The lowdown: Benchmark IVR* achievement from the Barossa Valley of South Australia

The food match: BBQ Chicken with a honey-based glaze

Mountadam Vineyards Cabernet/Merlot 2008 (641860, $16.95) at 15% abv carries it with structure, elegance and balance. Currant jam, beetroot and garrigue are all there but the fruit, savoury, char, heat and acidity factors are all in check. What’s not to like?  90

Throwing caution to the wind

The grape: Nebbiolo

The history: Native to Piedmont in Northern Italy

The lowdown: Traditional interpretation already aged and into its drinking window

The food match: Double-cut, French Veal Chop with Thyme, garlic and olive oil

Gemma Giblin Riserva Barolo 2005 (185025, $36.95) has begun to brick at the edges. Mouth rosewatering acidity binged by sour cherry and shellac. Wisp of Monte Cristo and withered rose only Barolo can smell of.  This Gemma is beautiful like a turning season, like something you know won’t last. For now and no more than two to three more years.  92

More notes from the VINTAGES June 23, 2012 release:

The Wine Diaries: Around the world in 20 whites

The Wine Diaries: Chardonnay close to the edge

Euro wine Rihanna need remember by name

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: Around the world in 20 whites

Photo Credit: bespokewinecompany.com

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/22/the-wine-diaries-around-the-world-in-20-whites/

In sweltering times like these the refreshing vigor of white wine is irrefutable and necessary. I would steer you to just about any global example from this list. Standing tall above is a 20th choice, the Terredora Greco di Tufo that I reviewed the other day. The Iberians too are all solid selections.

Stag’s Leap Winery Viognier 2011 (597369, $34.95) tasted twice tarried true to type. Velvety proof found in the pudding, the Viognier’s a Napa squall of plum flowering white in the wind. Apples baking and an Indonesian spice market with the citrus spray of a fresh squeezed grapefruit. Then the wine goes underground, into a heated, peppery lair. “Aww she surely do moves me,” she must be illegal stuff.  89

Ferngrove Cossack Riesling 2010 (275206, $24.95) adventures into herbal grass, spinifex and mangrove musk. Some petrol and shucked mollusk shell join the omnipresent lemon and lime of Aussie Riesling. Like rice pudding wine. The Cossack’s twain marks not in Ukraine. “Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.”   87

Astrolabe Province Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (10421, $21.95) formerly known as Voyage, formerly, formerly just Astrolabe. Kiwi non-starter in search of an identity in a sea of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Vegetal asparagus and blanched beans lift a dead bale but a kicking caboose shakes that thing on the finale.  88

Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (141499, $19.95) does not run with Marlborough’s reliably charitable gooseberry, grass and acidity. “Well it was back in Blind River” when I last saw this SB alive. Young but long on decline.  84

Seifried Riesling 2011 (989541, $17.95) is a robotically off-dry, stone fruit and cold Steve Austin reeking of A16. Blanched, bionic, bitter, sweet and sour gooseberagus. Would fare better as Cantonese chicken balls. Wrestles with identity. Could pass for Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cyborg or Steve Andersen. No matter the Riesling.  85

Vrede en Lust White Mischief 2011 (280156, $16.95) is bees-waxy, dank and yet juicy South African Vin Gris. A kitchen sink of protractive, not so floral smells. Five blended varietals cancel each other out. Pinot Grigio always wins. 87

Meinklang Grüner Veltliner 2010 (219014, $15.95) is some kind of Mostellian edible oil product. S, green herbs and Pam. A snail minus the butter and garlic. Zero acidity, humourless, see that “S” car go.  84

Domaine Gresser Duttenberg Riesling 2009 (283523, $21.95) fights the Alsatian fight. Light and expressive of primeval stone, caraway and Sommer Special Amer. Bucketmouth watering salinity.  87

Lucien Albrecht Réserve Pinot Gris 2010 (281394, $17.95) is pungent in a dry rub ginger, zeotar and galangal sort of way. To taste it is sweet and to mouth viscous like Muskateler. Rustic and ready for porky burnt ends roasted over felled Linden.  86

Château Haut Bertinerie 2009 (422220, $23.95) of old vines from the woods of the Blye has been “down on the rock for so long.” Marl, barley and Fuissé-esque peach toast. Allen’s Apple Juice too. Talking White Bordeaux with 100% Sauvignon Blanc Blues.  87

Domaine De La Tourlaudière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine 2010 (171694, $13.95) shows off more weight and depth for the appellation, if less acidity so fish matches ahead of seafood. A peppery kick and tangy melon rind remind me of Verdejo or Albarinho. A Melon de Bourgogne à la Loire easy to get along with.  I think Norm might agree.  87

Masion Foucher La Vigne Aux Sandres Pouilly Fumé 2010 (277350, $20.95) seems to act green with Kiwi envy. How else to explain the extreme grassy and goosey behaviour?   86

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008 (606202, $16.95) hails from less than 1er Cru Vineyard stock,  fumes odiferously of orange peel and Mandarin sauce reduction. This passes and leads to a cleaner Gardenia scent. To taste much more confected than expected with spiced honey. Got a lot going on here but the focus is not on the trolley.  87

Darting Riesling Kabinett 2009 (950212, $15.95) is guarded, a mastiff in protection mode. Bawdy lime and not much else. Almost always enjoy this Michelsberg. Funny bottle.  NR

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2011 (954024, $17.95) the Gallo of Alto Adige effervesces yeast meets western volcanic and dolomitic crust and sea. Peaches and cream, nectarine with length but campestral like Beck’s melancholy. “Keep your lamplight trimmed and burning.”  87

Michele Chiarlo Le Marne Gavi 2011 (228528, $14.95) is a salt lick of crustaceous shells and dripping stone fruit goodness. A simple and fun summer quaffer.  87

Casa Do Valle Grande Escolha 2011 (276220, $14.95) while unmistakably Portuguese Vinho Verde, this could be a ringer for Greco di Tufo or Viognier. The long visit to the haberdashery at once wears baking spice, Mezzogiorno mangia cake at Christmas and then white rose, honeysuckle Hermitage. Lofty comparisons for sure but this exceptional IVR* treacle is a chef mastered sweetbread of a double “V.”  89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nessa Albariño 2010 (282558, $15.95) maybe pale but a gale of vinous expression abounds. Lemon, wax and citrus along with the bitter roots of Wormwood and Horseradish. Would work well with Fried clams and donuts.  88

Domaine Des Chouans 2010 (278945, $15.95) chassays over all pretty and sallow. Dry, sweet at first, then turns bitter. A Blue Podded Blauwschokker Garden Pea. Ornamental but inedible.  85

More notes from the VINTAGES, June 23, 2012 release:

The Wine Diaries:  Chardonnay close to the edge

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

LMFAO. The Canadian Press/Chris Young

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/18/the-wine-diaries-mmvas-sparkling-wine-showers/?postpost=v2#content

Organizers of the Much Music Video Awards are proud to say the event’s boozy and disorganized culture has been cleaned up over the past few years. So, you and your under-aged teenager decided it would be perfectly fine to attend. Katy Perry’s flesh-coloured bodysuit was certainly not considered inappropriate. Nor was LMFAO’s impromptu spraying of what appears to be Champagne during the duo’s rendition of their clean as a whistle, Top 40 hit.

Redfoo and SkyBlu doused a mostly underage crowd with what appeared to be real champagne – though it was likely only sparkling wine if you want to get technical. No harm done, right? That is unless it was baby Duck or Spumante. Let’s see the kids explain that one to their parents.

Where are Milli Vanilli and Right Said Fred when you need them. Could that Champagne Shower at least have been executed with one of these five? 

Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé (280172, $21.95) feigns saignée Rosé Brut if only in hue. The Blanc from Hawkes Bay Chardonnay as commodore over the faint hit of raspberry from Marlborough Pinot. “Easy like Sunday morning.”  85

Laborie Brut Sparkling Wine 2009 (280115, $17.95) makes you want to crack a window. Smells like a wet wookie, the yeasty South African cheese that is. Chewy, crusted apple pie, crackerbread, Kasha, gypsum and kaolin. “A party rocker from night ’til noon and it’s about to be a champagne monsoon.” Indehiscent bacca Pinot and Chardonnay with balancing citrus and noble lineage.  88

Bestheim Brut Crémant D’alsace (141184, $17.95) may as well be cider of apple and grapefruit. Subtle spice, soufrière and a weal burst of freshness, then bubbles all gone. What is luck but something made to run out.  86

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D’asti 2010 (942888, $16.95) shows off some apricot, honey, Caprino rind and Viognier perfume but is ultimately all oranges, all the time. Frizzy and fizzy Gelato D’arancia alla Crema. Low in alcohol, more dessert wine than aperitif.  Good Asti, if not an acquired taste.  86

Prevedello Asolo Superiore Extra Dry Prosecco 2010 (262881, $16.95) echoes the Moscato’s intense fruity florals but the palate is so dry I’m spitting cotton. Taleggio tang, blood orange acidity and a bit gritty. Sexy and it knows it.  87

Good to go!

Old world wine Avengers

Avengers Wine

 

May 7, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/05/07/old-world-wine-avengers/

 

A generation of eonphiles older than myself are fortunate to have seen a forest for the trees. Their knowledge of the Truffula allows them to dwell in vinous perpetuity where “peace and balance are the rule.” This a land where gold is in them hills. Where a wine’s colour is detected by means analogous to the use of the eye. Wines that maintain the line of gravity, where fruit, tannin and acidity work together toward a common goal. Wines maxing out at 12.5% abv. The need to avenge the annihilation of proportion by wines that sold the world may be partially offset by emerging and steadying technologies but I am on the road again, looking for a miracle beyond the latest fashion. In this canned heat world of red berry, chocolate milkshakes “there’s a brand new talk…it’s loud and it’s tasteless.” It’s getting old and increasingly hard to handle. Were rebel winemakers superheroes they would be the Avengers and their wines the super-powers they wield to rid us of the scary monsters and once again restore an old world order.

Two recently (re-tasted) Vine Dirt wines on the card at Barque are a current source of enlightenment to “see me through the days of wine and roses…see me through when things get heavy.”

 

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (208462, $35.95) the real water buffalo type is a rare throwback to a time when the likes of Biondi Santi and Soldera ruled the Montalcino mountain. The Nere must be admired for being fearless and without code. Perhaps it lacks a certain genome and it is this missing part that allows it to fly. Hovering and truffling about on a bed of parched, brick earth and roses. Redolent of balmy bracken and game roasting on an open-pit. A revertigo Brunello to send me back to the Fortezza circa 1987.  91

Terre Nere Brunello 2006

Terre Nere Brunello 2006

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Pieve Barolo 2007 (213132, $28.95) shines as the adolescent kin to Marziano Abbonna’s two terrific adult Baroli, the recently released Terlo Ravera and soon to arrive Pressenda. Reconnoitering with the Pieve opens a window into an unparalleled universe of value to be found in this produttori’s Nebbioli.  End-of-tether quality of light shining ever so lightly in the glass. Cherries soaking in a bowl of rosewater. Top notch match to the simplicity of tortelli di zia and to the bold flavours of smokehouse chicken.  90

La Pieve Barolo 2007

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

VINTAGES Classics, May 2012 – Six “values” under $69

 VINTAGES Classics May 2012 

April 30, 2012

VINTAGES 

 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/30/vintages-classics-may-2012-six-values-under-69/?postpost=v2#content

 

The bi-annual fine wine catalogue is “free to those that can afford it, very expensive to those that can‘t.” Have been burning the midnight must, wondering from which discretion inspiration will come, trying to forge a splurge decision on a $100+ icon. A Bouchard or Dublere Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru? Champy Mazis-Chambertin GC? Beaucastel Hommage or CDP Blanc? Messorio, Clos Mogador, Quintarelli Alzero? What about the Vérité Le’s and La’s? Head shake as if oscillating, eye-level hung boxing punch bag. Have now come to my senses. Presenting a shortlist of six under $69.

 

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 (275735, $39) quiet, honest and of a certified sustainable winery represents the best fruit from prized vineyard sources situated around Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It has been said and may be true that early on some vintages at Rex Hill were more promise than delivery. Notes on the 2009 swing the pendulum in this outfit’s favour, “…just a lot of depth and flavor for the money,” “…loquacious and slightly acidic, yet well behaved” and “…focused, satiny and elegant.” Released at $48 US, prices hovered around the $30 mark last summer and if you were to find it now, the average price nets over$40 US.

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009

Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 (119081, $45) gumshoes while the iconic Littorai and Sea Smoke divert attention. Comfortably comparative, unrestrictive $10-15 tag versus our neighbours to the south. Make no mistake, this is deeply hued, 14.4% ABV Sonoma Pinot. Resides in that not yet greedy, none too precious wheelhouse once inhabited by Kosta Browne. Matthew Jukes says the Hobbs RRV owns an “…innate understanding of the celestial Pinot form.” The Scores are RP (92) , WS (91), JR-ST (90) and CT’s (91).

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009

                                              

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco 2007 (715763, $49) totes Cru vineyard status and reminds me that Barbareschi offer some of the greatest $50 value. A tangerine site the Roncaglie, “she is my queen,” producing a shimmering wine with Nebbiolo country flourish. Galloni (94+) is joined by Kyle Phillips (**), Michael Franz (93)  and Monica Larner (91) on the butter pat.

Colla Roncaglie Barb 2007

Colla Roncaglie Barb 2007

 

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006 (261982, $65) will fill the “going to California with an aching in my heart” hole in my current wine voyage life. A hovering Zeppelin of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon replete with Left bank lead blown by Pacific winds over Diamond Mountain. Mr. Laube at WS (82) is the sole detracting critical voice so skim his dis off the bottom, along with the (96) hyperbole from W & S, from off the top. The middle ground notes black fruit, high, coarse tannins and a wooden depth of flavour. Priced and continuing to sell near the $75 US mark so a steal by VINTAGES, California standards. Here some more critical thought from WE (93), WN (92), RJ (91), Vinography (9-9.5) and the CT’s (91).

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006

Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard 2006

                       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (149583, $69) the highly clicked Sangiovese will clog the Classics queues. The (97) from Spectator guarantees a lottery effect. A child might ask, “what’s so special about this wine, what’s its magic?” If Brunello is your thing, you have to put in a ballot. Oh Serena, “when I come to lie in your arms, you should not treat me like a stranger.”

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino 2006

                   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009(91652, $69) will be the singularly most requested wine of mortal value from this catalogue. Robert Parker rated it (98). Drop me a line if your ticket comes in.

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009

Delas Frères Domaine Des Tourettes Hermitage 2009

Other Wines of Note:

LOUIS JADOT CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET LES DEMOISELLES GRAND CRU 2008 (261032, $399)

JOSEPH DROUHIN MONTRACHET MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE GRAND CRU 2007 (670323, $675)

DELAS FRÈRES LA LANDONNE CÔTE-RÔTIE 2009 (92197, $149)

DELAS FRÈRES LES BESSARDS HERMITAGE 2009 (92205, $149)

PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE 2009 (973735, $255)

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL HOMMAGE À JACQUES PERRIN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2009 (985622, $325)

DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE CHAUPIN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2009 (940379, $85)

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2009 (596098, $159)

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2006  (279695, $499)

 

 

Good to go!

 

 

Triassic Tasting at Pangaea

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

Pangaea Upstairs Dining Room

 April 24, 2012

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/27/triassic-tasting-at-pangaea/

Pangaea Restaurant, 1221 Bay Street, (416) 920-2323

Chef du Cuisine: Derek Bendig, Sommelier and Manager: Benjamin Hardy

 

The group of seven. Sorry. Not THE Group of Seven. This group of seven. Our new format is really taking shape. We no longer each bring wine from cellar to share. Now one leader, one cellar, nine wines. Plenty to share with Mr.’s Hardy, Bendig and crew. Seamless sally forth through five courses. Godspeed to Pangaea for an all out effort in syncopated rhythm. This tasting the high water mark (of the new era) to date, with no disrespect to what came before, but the senescence has reached the early stages of maturity. Laud and applaud to AZ for coordinating food and wine synergy. A coup de foudre from the get go.  

Nine Wine Night

Nine Wine Night

 

Amuse Bouche, radish ‘ravioli’ stuffed with chèvre, tomato, basil

Chef’s Creek (Fanny’s Bay, Vancouver Island) Oysters, on the half shell, horseradish, lemon, shallot mignonette

  1. Peninsula Ridge Fumé Blanc 2008 wants to be 1er Cru Chablis in my universe but sweats heat and spice, “green cardamom pod and roasted salsify,” adds AM. Nutty lemon custard and did someone say Boxwood? Not quite Sauvignon Blanc but PR brings out enough mineral to do this style proud up on the Bench.  88
  2. Domaine De Congy Cuvée Les Galfins Pouilly Fumé 2009 tasted blind is undoubtedly old world but the lack of grass and oak leads me to Muscadet. Wrong! Oh the marl and fossilized oysters of it all! More Sauvignon Blanc to confront my tasting demons. Solid, if not as cursive as the PR.  87

 

Ahi Tuna Tataki, seared tuna, blood orange and fennel salad, avocado pureé

  1. See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV strikes a match from the outset and never wavers. The other MG senses After Eights but for me that possibility is smothered by a leesy, cheesy lard maigre et fromage. Gismondi calls this BC bubbly “a Champagne ringer.” Not so much. Flat finish so s’ya later, “s’alright ma’, i’m only sighing.” Just tasting.  85

 

Intermezzo, grapefruit and tarragon flavoured ice

 

Quebec Duck Breast, pan-roasted, seasonal vegetables, potato rösti, game jus

  1. Fontanabianca Barbaresco Sori Burdin 2004 the blessed and confounded queen Nebbiolo is the totipotent master of the moment. Italianate yet without animale, rosy cheeked and impossibly elegant, it still manages to anesthetize the mouth. So pretty it hurts. Along with the Sori Paitin, easily the best value in Barbaresco. On this night my allegiance is to the queen.  92
  2. Renatto Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2004 of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C.  91
  3. D’arenberg Ironstone Pressings 2001 holds the title of GSM pop star of the Mclaren Vale. Eponymous iron filings and pressed fruit roll up. A mixed bag of Grenache, Syrah and Mataro, the IP’s warm, berry and balsamwood address is veiled by a touch of oxidation. “Stinky feet” corrects AM. Good integration of fruit, acidity and tannin present proper balance.  90
  4. Mas Doix Salanques 2006 is a revelation. A Pegau-esque perfume aux gasseuse leans Rhône but an amazing (65%) Garnacha sweetness veers Priorat. Iodine (Syrah and Carignan) of black slate soil, tar, smoked meat and bacon. A Parker and Galloni thesaurus of descriptors must be bequeathed on this candied (Merlot) wine loaded with acidity in magnums.  CVR** WOTN.  93

 

House Made Cheeses, goat camembert, blue haze, cloth bound cheddar, truffle tomme

  1. Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1998 would be my wine of choice walking a boulder strewn vineyard on a misty morning in the Southern Rhône. Expressions are hurled around the table, “candified Pinot nose” and “tutti frutti.” For Beaucastel? I can’t believe the tripartite fruit freshness, ambient funk immersion and pencil lead sharpness. This ’98 is “light as a feather, heavy as lead.” The Beaucastel will brighten up your tomorrow. WOTN  96
  2. Tablas Creek Espit de Beaucastel 2008 the worthy adversary is just a dude from California. A honey pot of stewed prunes and “Seville oranges” notes the quote machine. A sinkhole of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 6% Cunoise, the Esprit does admirable expatriate yeoman’s work and I wouldn’t even think of marking it zero.  88
Tasting Table

Tasting Table

 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

 

 

Good to go!

April Wine: Top VINTAGES Values to Buy Right Now

April 12, 2012

How many times have you found yourself standing in the LCBO dumbfounded and lost in ambient wine distraction? Do you feel knocked upside the Medulla Oblongata by a monopoly’s shelves bedecked by every race, creed and colour of wine known to Ontario kind? Don’t get caught on The Bad Side of The Moon. Have no fear. Head straight to the VINTAGES section and choose one of these great IVR* and CVR** top picks.

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/04/12/april-wine-top-vintages-values-to-buy-right-now/

 
REDS
 
Current In VINTAGES Stores
Pietro Marini Malbec 2008 (268045, $13.95) Argentina
Petra Zingari Toscana Igt 2008 (244228, $13.95) Italy
Michele Chiarlo ‘Le Orme’ Barbera D’asti Superiore 2009 (265413, $14.95) Italy
Bodega del Abad Dom Bueno Crianza 2001 (244699, $14.95) Spain
Taurino Riserva Salice Salentino 2008 (177527, $14.95) Italy
Domaine De La Janasse Côtes Du Rhône 2009 (705228, $15.95) France
 
VINTAGES April 14th Release
Jorio Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2009 (134577, $13.95) Italy
Fabre Montmayou Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (261891, $14.95) Argentina
 
VINTAGES April 28th Release
Sister’s Run Epiphany Shiraz 2008 (269464, $15.95) Australia
Cannonica e Ceretto Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (275867, $17.00) Italy
 
 
ROSÉ
 
Current In VINTAGES Stores
Tawse Sketches of Ontario Rosé 2011 (172643, $15.95) Ontario
 
 
SPARKLING
 
Current in VINTAGES STORES
Louis Bouillot Perle D’ivoire Brut Blancs De Blancs (48801, $18.95) France
 
 
WHITES
 
Current In VINTAGES Stores
Fielding Estate Chardonnay Unoaked 2008 (164491, $13.95) Ontario
Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2011 (080234, $16.95) Ontario
Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2007 (114777, $17.95) Germany
Marimar Estate La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 (270090, $19.95) California
 
VINTAGES April 14th Release
Michael Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet De Sevre-et-Maine 2010 (164624, $12.95) France
L’Uvaggio Di Giacomo Vermentino 2009 (279281, $15.95) California
Tyrell’s Brookdale Semillon 2011 (269316, $19.95) Australia
 
VINTAGES April 28th Release
Vincent Girardin Vieilles Vignes Mâcon-Fuissé 2009 (264515, $19.95) France
 

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

 

 

Live Wine Chat on canada.com

April 12, 2012

Join in Today at 2:00 pm ET as I chat online about wine. I will be joined by Ruth Dunley (PostMedia), Rod Phillips (Ottawa Citizen), James Nevison (HALFAGLASS) and Gurvinder Bhatia (Vinomania)

http://www.canada.com/news/Live+Chat+wine+experts/6427822/story.html

We will be discussing wine media. Do you read wine reviews or make purchases based on what wine critics write … should you? 

 

 

 

Good to go!

Would Air Canada Serve These Wines?

 

March 19, 2012 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/03/19/would-air-canada-serve-these-wines/

Union disputes, factory closures, protests, pilot book-offs, flight delays. Rachel Sa was grounded. Did Air Canada spoil your March break party? More importantly, if you did manage to fly on time, did they pour you stellar wines? Not likely. My March break concluded with a defrosting lake and a growing fort. Also with a little help from friends, family, food, sunshine and of course, fine wine.

 

Cline Zinfandel Live Oak Vineyard 2000 ($30) was the price I paid through VINTAGES Classics a decade ago. Intuition (and 15.5% alcohol) at the time suggested a lengthy cellar slumber. Good thinking. Heavens to murgatroyd! Ten years on the power of this Zin sets a land mine off in the mouth. Imbued of chewy caliginous thew, berries super concentrated still while tannin and acidity proliferate. Milk Chocolate character acts out the vineyard’s name. Fruit could last at least five more years.  91

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beni di Batasiolo Barola Vigneto Corda della Briccolina 1998 may not be a wine to blow my mind yet there remains enough ro, ro rosey to be the apple in my cherry pie. Faintly herbal, sweet as fiori d’arancio. Expertly evolved tone, sound down low and baked of a colour as if weathered bricks that fashioned the backyard oven.  91

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (512384, $29.95) posolutely states its case as spokesperson for modern CCR. User-friendly, ruber-rich tree fruit cup runneth over. Chroma of pigeon’s blood corundum. Molto crema; gelato, cassis and anglaise.  89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the fort is really taking shape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good to go!

Simpsons Inspired Wine? Not So Fast

March 16, 2012

 

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/03/16/simpsons-inspi…ne-not-so-fast/

 

VINTAGES ordinarily provides the fermented silage for my rambling raison d’être but to the LCBO’s General List a switch, on a dare. I have been summoned to post a tasting note by canada.com blog colleague Rachel Sa. Her pop culture penchant and Bard’s tongue reel me in to play the game. It may not be Global Thermonuclear War, but I’m on the bus anyway.

Cantina Clavesana D’Oh Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010 (268037, $12.95) of closed nose and real cork is the only one of its General List kind. Bottle’s slogan is “you d’oh something to me.” A Homerian “mmm,” yet no mystic or Rhetorician here. I’m quite certain the Clavesana clan from Piedmont have never heard of Homer, Zohar or even L’ag Ba Omer for that matter. I concur with the pithy plums and cherries noted by local pros Rick VanSickle, “…fun little Italian Dolcetto all dressed up in a clever package” and Tony Aspler (87), “…nicely balanced with a cherry pit finish.” Post Media and Wine Chat colleague Rod Phillips chimes in with, “…very attractive and well-priced dry red.” For my experience, a double-cut, frenched Veal Chop (garlic, lemon, olive oil, Dijon, Worcestershire and light soy) helped soften the edges. Here like Chianti without the Classico, DOC without the necessary “G”. Perhaps pair with Jelly Donuts, Snickers and Gummy Bears. Fizzling finish, as if D’OH wears short shorts. It’s inoffensive, not necessarily plonk but lacks badonk. Wish I could say “where have you been all my life” but must drink less Dolcetto to save family…zzzzzzz.  84

 

 

 

 

Good to go!