Balaton
From almost any vantage point up on the Szent György-Hegy one can’t help but engage in the act of starting to smile and in a really subtle way. There’s a Hungarian word for that called elmosolyodik. Mosoly is the word for smile, but to elmosolyodni is something less obvious, usually reserved for something you don’t do right away, meaning you realize something is funny or heartwarming and so in the end you find yourself smiling. Taking the liberty here to make use of the abstruse word because no matter the moment, who could not smile when surrounded by these landscapes. From up aboard the majestic Saint George Hill and downward in descension the vistas are inspiring. They keep your gaze locked in tight as the vines (especially in mid-summer) spread out through villages and across to the shapes of other emerald volcanic hills that dot the peripheral horizons.
View of Lake Balaton from the peak of the Szent György-Hegy
Starting to write an article about any wine region is always difficult because while visiting said region is at the time a special experience, returning back to it months later presents a serious challenge to the intellect. The Lake Balaton region is no exception and so making headway might best be served by another usage of a Hungarian word. Here is where szöszmötöl seems to offer the best approach. The conjugated verb could be interpreted as “to do something lengthily and with uttermost care.” Sounds right up Godello’s alley and so what may begin with frustration, lack of initiative, or suffering from writer’s block will eventually somehow lead to being prone to szöszmötöl, that is to wax rhapsodic, not forever, but every once in a while. As in right now.
With Robert Gilvesy
Before continuing on it must be noted straight away that much of what will follow is thanks in full to the planning by WineAlign partner John Szabo M.S. and the Canadian-Hungarian architect-wine producer Robert Gilvesy. Gilvesy has made his home and last three decade’s of work on the Saint George Hill going back to the early 1990s. Behold a 2023 seasonal round-up message from Robert:
“Round and round and round we go, following the seasons, the cycles, and nature’s whims, and with this, finally our wines sleep. Our wines sleep, but they are alive, and they will greet you with the vibrance and life that you have come to know in our wines. 2023 was a season of changes and challenges, with great new faces on our team and high disease pressure in the vineyards. Since our inception in 2012, I do not remember a growing season with such intense downy mildew pressure, assisted by rains and humidity which started before flowering and stayed with us through the end of July. After being surprised with such early infections, and playing catch-up most of the summer we had ideal conditions from August through the end of a small but well-conceived harvest. Our reinvigorated crew performed marvellously, and we look forward to building with them in 2024. Pruning has started and we will continue through the winter of 2024. At the same time I will be visiting some very fine wine fairs: Haut les Vins, Paris and Haut les Vins, Düsseldorf, not to mention Alois Lageder’s SUMMA in April. Don’t worry, I will send out notices with details very soon should you like to visit. I would like to thank you all for working with us, and following not just our seasons, but how our wines have developed over years. Our love of our terroir, and our volcanic landscape has only deepened and so we will continue send you an honest, and natural expressions of this in our wines.”
Lake Balaton from the Szent György-Hegy
For four days at the end of July 2023 a small group of wine writers, including Godello traveled across Slovenia, originating in Collio, arriving at the Szent György-Hegy in the dead of night. Magyarórszág csapat, a.k.a. Team Hungary took to the volcanoes around Lake Balaton like ducks to water and dove headfirst into the wines from Balatoni, Badacsony, Szent György-Hegy, Csobánc, Káli Basin and Somló. Mostly volcanic, all so very real, of grape varieties endemic to, suitable for and just plain native for these verdant hills. These are the notes on 65 wines tasted over those four fateful days in July.
Gilvesy Winery
Robert Gilvesy’s home and winery sit on a former Esterházy estate on the Szent György Hill. Mount Saint George is an ancient and little known volcanic butte in Europe’s Pannon basin. The Hegymagas-based facility and 13 hectares of vineyards are poised at this prime location in an area shaped by eight million year-old volcanoes that would have ceased erupting between four and five million years ago. The cellar was erected circa 1680 by the Lengyel family and was later part of the noble Esterhazy estate. In 2012, the renovation and modification was completed just in time for the 2012 harvest. All Gilvesy vineyards have been organically cultivated since 2014. Soils are eroded basalt and tuff integrated in Pannon loess, sand or clay. Varieties cultivated are riesling, furmint, olaszrizling and sauvignon blanc. The place is home to, as described by Gilvesy, “ancient, crumbling edifices, witness to a violent history, but now so bucolic, and natural.”
Gilvesy Brut Nature Méthode Traditionnelle 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary
Toasty as few other sparkling wines made from furmint are or really can be in Balaton. The first varietal harvest (of an overall vigorous and usually generous amount) is taken for the BNMTSGH in the first week of September. A late green harvest if you will, not about percentage but about properly thinning out the vines. The 2017 vintage saw to 3,000 bottles which is the ceiling “for the market.” Natural ferment, fine lees through March/April and then shipped off to Garamvári sparkling wine house. The subtle aspects of autolysis and aldehydes are shadows and mysteries, never rising to the surface or making themselves clear but you feel them gliding through air, following the layers of fruit, texture, truth and soul. Lovely bitters and tonics on the finish, just there and just right. In other words the terroir of Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Bohém Balatoni Cuvée 2021, Balatoni, Hungary
Robert Gilvesy’s Bohém blend no longer uses pinot gris (as mentioned in March) and tasting it four months later while looking out at Lake Balaton only romances the flavours and exults the wine. How could it not? The appellative excellence speaks to all the winemakers in the area and says it’s time. Time to join the party and make a white blend that represents estate. Last tasted July 2023
The blend in 2021 is olaszrizling (a.k.a. welschriesling), riesling and sauvignon blanc with pinot gris no longer involved. No doubt a botanical aspect ups the complexity game away and beyond the simple norms of white blends marked by citrus and stone fruit. They are in the mix but the herbal tonic and fine bitters elevate the cuvée to speak rightly and spritely for Balaton, the Szent György Hill and Robert Gilvesy’s oeuvre. This wine is an institution now and deserves plenty of attention. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023
Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Volcanic & Basalt 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
Stainless steel and all wild ferment by way of a starter (Pied de Cuve) from the home-based Szent György-Hegy a.k.a. Mount Saint-George). No this is not the vintage of the century for Balaton but there is no doubt that sauvignon blanc is becoming one of his most consistent wines. A minty-herbal cool sensation and citrus distillate, concentrated and so well balanced for a pleasurable flavour profile while also inducing saliva to wish for more and more sips. An improved wine with the changes that begun in 2019 making for a much more complete example of sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Pixu Saba Szüretlén 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
The use of 15 percent whole bunch through fermentation (inclusive of three days of skin contact) on this next and ulterior level sauvignon blanc plays a prominent role and puts a positive spin on the Pixu. More than flinty reduction (which is incidentally low key) but mainly a matter of texture because the palate awakens with excitement, like a child bounding out of bed for Saturday morning cartoons. But such a crunchy wine can almost be heard as the palate swirls and bites down on the cracklings of the wine. Lemon pith finish reminds that this natural SB makes decisions of its own accord. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Pixu Olaszrizling 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
Third vintage (2020 was skipped) for the olaszrizling of no maceration but the use of a really old 52L foudres and two German spiedl (concrete) eggs were employed and then…nothing much after that until bottling with only some sulphuring late when oxidation was sensed. Followed by a small amount, after not filtering, before bottling. And so the linear and vertical variety is turned textural, citrus preserved and chewy. Like savoury sour lemon chews rolled in ginger crystals. The petrol future will be like none you’ve ever encountered in olazriesling. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Pixu Furmint 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
Vinification essentially identical to the olazrizling; that is large old foudres, two concrete eggs, minor sulphuring and no filtering. Yet furmint comes leaning and angling with more notable oxidative sways, golden hue, metallic moments, phenolic elasticity and early petrol emission. Feels like there is still some malolactic magic going on and the wine will be a vastly different animal six months to a year from now. Crafty little thing this furmint, acidity doing its thing and textural like lemon curd swirled into mascarpone. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Pixu Cross 19 + 21, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
Two old barrels of furmint, one from 2019 and the other 2021 are put together, one because each orange segment needed a kick from the other and two because they were both stable ferments that could marry to make an even more stable union. This is delicious wine, no matter what it actually is or people perceive it to be. The idea of orange upon orange is Rothko-esque but truth is orange (the wine) is a primary thing and orange (the colour) is a secondary one, made by combining red and yellow, which is essentially what skin-contact wine happens to be. As for volatility it is at the edge but anyone who wants to win the argument that this is above and beyond is only fighting to win. In the end 19 plus 21 is forty. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Pixu Kadarka 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary
First vintage form the vines’ third leaf planted right on the Saint-George hill. A vigorous variety, historically grown in Hungary but also certainly here, best produced in a light and bright style, picked ahead of its tendency to go jammy. Nothing here suggests that, nor oak-influence, nor heavy ambition neither. Just fruit, ih so natural and the aroma is the uncanny scent of watermelon (namely the rind). A convincingly pure kadarka so fruit driven, balanced and impossibly juicy. Hard to get simpler or more refreshing than this. Newsflash: Kadarka has a place on this mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Volcanic & Basalt Furmint Rajnai Rizling Olaszrizling 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Lake Balaton, Hungary
Co-fermented furmint and olaszrizling with other ferments of rajnai riesling mixed in, up to 50 percent oak on some of the furmint and in the end there are varietal layers but vintage is really what’s on display. Yet another appellative white blend that speaks to place and sure there is a specificity that a cool and balanced vintage brings but this style considers place more than anything else. Complex while much more finessed and precise than what might be imagined and also a joy to sip. Acid, layers of tart and taut, highly local fruit and boom – SGH incarnate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2021, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary
The most straightforward, juicy and crunchy of Robert Gilvesy’s wines is this rizling of the Rajnai type. Dry style and luxe for the variety, lemon and lime plus an ideal vintage from which to capture the essence of this hill above Lake Balaton through the lens of the grape. Hard to imagine the wine with more energy and vitality than what 2021 has to offer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary
Nearly all the grapes come from different clones, blocks and harvests out of the Varadi Vineyard. Most of the vines were planted in 2014 and so it’s just amazing how by 2017 the vines were already getting into the Szent György-hegy groove. The location is down left or southeast from Csaba Török’s 2HA Estate terrace. There is no doubt that 2017 has developed into a fuller expression of rajnai rizling but also one leaving behind a vapour trail. Last tasted July 2023.
The immediate sensation is that of two-toned texture, like a faux sweet and savoury green apple creation, a bite through a crisp candied shell and then the creamy pulp inside. Two basalt vineyards, old Tarányi and young Váradi meet from off of the Saint George hill on lake Balaton. The palate delivers a snap of fruit and this mildly bitter tonic aridity and that variegation is due to staggered picking and stacking. In the end the alignment and balance find the first stages of fine accord. With greater experience more finesse is sure to come. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted December 2018
Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary
Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Mogyorós 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary
Single vineyard on the north side of Saint George Mountain for a varietal wine but what the world needs to know about Robert Gilvesy’s sauvignon blanc is that it tastes nothing like any other. Matured in Hungarian wood, luxe, mature, rich and just plain exceptional. Full and layered with elderflower that creeps in and out with ascent that distracts while enhancing the yellow fruit. Must be tasted to be understood how unique this truly is and how it celebrates this volcanic hill. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023
Gilvesy Furmint Váradi 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni
Single vineyard furmint from the vineyard planted just five years earlier and so ready so quick, as with the rizling from the same place. Anyone who thinks they know furmint and also they who know nothing about the great Hungarian grape must have a moment with Gilvesy’s finessed and precise work that truly expresses what grape and place will conspire to create. Furmint is “well-acquainted with the touch of the velvet hand,” and Gilvesy’s is that hand. Like happiness, furmint is a warm gun and when treated to the volcanics of the Szent György Hegy it becomes the eighth track on the white wine album of the Balatoni. Special does not begin to describe this fantasy. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2023
Vineyards at Szászi Birtok
Szászi Birtok
Endre Szászi is one of the original winemakers of the Badacsony wine region. His family vineyard was established in 1999 with twp hectares, organic from the start, certified since 2003, now 20. Balontoni olazriesling is key, also grown in Zigliget and at the hills called Kesthely which are the Balaton Uplands where the soils mix with limestone. Main vineyards are here on the basalt hill and at Siglikat with other plots at Hajagos and Lesencetomaj, All wild fermentation, only bentonite for fining with filtration. Also natural wines, first Orange released in 2019. Daniel Friedrich is viticulturist and in charge of sales, amongst other things.
Szászi Birtok Zenit 2022, Badacsony
Zenet is a Hungarian crossbreed of bouvier and ezerjó, put to direct press, all parts in steel. Runs similar to sauvignon blanc and here a warm vintage with up to (one percent) higher alcohol than normal. Usually blended yet here we are – 13.2 in ’22, lemon zest big time and yet there is something about zenit that puts it in a l’acadie vein. Pick it on time and you get this low pH and high acid speciality. But the window is wider, up to 10 days. Crunchy and clean, a refresher that serves a great purpose. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Rozsakö 2022, Badacsony
Rózsakó translates as “rose stone,” a crossbreed made in the Balaton agricultural centre in the 1960s, between kéknyelü and budai zöld. The kéknyelü was the first mentioned variety in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so another variety must be grown nearby, thus budai sold. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only steel fermentation and aging, up to eight months. No miss in terms of acid and rózsakó is also aromatically gregarious. Lots of lime here and also phenolic grip. It was first accepted as a local appellative variety in 2002. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2022, Badacsony
Only 38 hectares total planted in the area of this local variety that Srászi also uses but in a crossbreed called rózsakó that sees the grape blended with budai zöld. More lemon drop with viscosity in a varietal wine that’s more about texture than the others. A warm vintage like 2018 and 2020 with high ripe fruit flavours and slightly lower acidity. Just a drinkable white wine in all respects, without distraction and finishing with the slightest amount of lovely pith bitters. The soils high in potassium make for high pH to give the sapid element and unctuous drift. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2019, Badacsony
Cooler vintage for the kéknyelü and considered a best or favourite for Srászi and likely in its best condition right now. Has developed something new, akin to petrol but very different than what happens in riesling or perhaps sémillon. A winemaker’s vintage and style, also now lemon creamy against the salty (especially as compared to 2022) backdrop and length is clearly more impressive. The caress is created by wood, 500L and none of it even close to new, some as old as 20 years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Szent György Hill Olaszrizling 2021, Badacsony
From eight hectares on the Szent György-Hegy (Saint George Hill), south slope facing the lake and every parcel is picked over two or three times. Top picks that is and the rest goes to the larger quantity white blend. Does not get cleaner and more crystal transparent, a popular wine found in many Budapest restaurants, easy to comprehend and less phenolic than riesling. Nothing fussy or precious, much like the grape itself and how it grows so easily. Neutral in a way but expressive and predicated on a squeeze of sweet lemon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Olazsrizling Szent György Hegy Rókaluki Vineyard 2021, Badacsony
From the vineyard just in front of the winery, rókaluki meaning “foxhole,” considered part of the Szent György-Hegy. Off of low-yielding vines and whole bunched pressed to restrict the phenolics which can spoil the wine with bitterness if left to its own devices. Next level richness but also intense juiciness with more colour and reduced citrus. Also sweet herbs here, basil namely but make no mistake the drink-ability factor runs equal if not higher to the cuvée of olazriesling. Almost tropical flavours but no botrytis involved. Clean, focused and precise from a wine that all wine savvy Canadians should know and get to love. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Blanc De Noir Brut Nature 2020, Balatoni
Made from pinot noir with no local appellative PDO and nearly all the sparkling wine made at small wineries are not traditionally labelled this way. Just 1,000-1,500 bottles made, first was from 2010, fruit picked late August in the Kesthély limestone hills. On the lees for six months in steel and transferred for two more years before disgorgement. Lovely in so many respects, without malo and just lemon creamy enough to create a true level of textural satisfaction. Really nice without saying too much and speaking softly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Nyerspezsgö (Brut Nature) Furmint 2020, Balatoni
Made from furmint but you can’t put it in on the label because still/table PDO wines have cornered the appellative market nor can it have a PDO or PGI working title because the wine is not bottled in the region. Ferment takes more time to settle in as bubbles so this raw example is still quite young. Autolytic and protectively, if gently oxidative, gingery and of downy feather feels. Quite fresh as compared to the pinot. More twist and torque, grip and circumstance. Disgorged in February of 2023 and so upwards of 30 months on lees like the pinot noir Brut Nature. Similar production number, of 1,000-1,500 bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Pet Nat Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Balatoni
Endre Szászi wanted to make a Rosé Pét-Nat and with no pinot noir to employ it was cabernet sauvignon as the next grape up. Planted in front of the estate, a half hectare and one more to the east, with some of the fruit (for 6,000 bottles) being made into still Rosé. Same picking time and fermentation with just a few litres or so (for 2,000 bottles) pulled off for Pét-Nat. “Quite popular at the lake,” tells Daniel Friedrich and it is only sold at the cellar door. Strawberry to cherry flavours, inexpensive, charming and simple fun. Low sugar too, at 3.5 g/L. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Csokászölö 2022, Balatoni
Csóka is a type of bird, literally “coot bird” but that does not tell us much. Actually a Jackdaw, in the crow family and the csokászölö variety is quite rare in Hungary, with only six family holding plantings. From the Szent György-Hegy, bottled as a varietal wine, hard to grow, not produced in every vintage, perhaps 60 percent of the time. Similar to kadarka, light, phenolic with some character traits that are shared with pinot noir. Makes 500-700 bottles per year. Sweetly fruity, gummy berry in a sense, 2022 ripe, playful and of a charming grace. An affinity with gamay, as far as the csóka flies. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Szászi Birtok Cserszegi Narancsbór 2022, Balatoni
A unique variety crossing between irsai-oliver and traminer, made into an unfiltered orange wine, spiced and spicy, salt and pepper seasoning, uniquely gastronomic. Amazingly clean, without faults, the furthest possible from acetic or bacterial. Just the right hit of tart and textured, terpenes involved, bright, perfumed and grounded. Made primarily for a partner in Korea, about as random as it gets but alliances can be forged between the strangest of bedfellows. It can be imagined as working well with Korean food where kimchi is involved. Sees seven months on lees, bottled by hand. It’s bloody delicious, acids are delicate yet properly arranged, unabashedly and honestly Orange. There were 2,000 bottles in 2022, a year where the (other Orange) Zeus was not able to be produced. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Csobánc hill
Villa Tolnay
Since 2004 Philipp Oser has been the owner and chief-winemaker of Villa Tolnay winery. Oser’s cantina is located at the foot of the Volcanic Csobánc hill and is actually the former residence of the famous Hungarian actress Klari Tolnay. Csobánc is one of the unique and peculiar monadnocks of Tapolca Basin, a coffin-shaped mountain befitting (especially) of riesling and olazriszling. Atop the grassy plateau there rests the ruins of Csobánc Castle and a 360 degree view can be had over the Balaton Uplands. While some volcanoes in the area have conical or pointed peaks but Csobánc, like Badacsony and Szent György-hegy bear a flat plateau. The soil and terroir at Csobánc is volcanic basalt soil with ancient Pannonian sea sediment, on 23 hecatres for cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, olaszrizling, pinot noir, rajnai riesling, sauvignon blanc and zold veltilini (grüner veltliner).
Villa Tolnay Zöldveltelini GV Grüner Veltliner Selection Balatoni 2022, Csobánc
A mix of a 50 year-old plot and a more recent (eight year-old) planting and some of that old fruit went into a premium bottling. Takes up to six harvests separated because of variable ripening. Over time it has made sense to bring all the picks, tanks and barrels together to make this selection. Phenolic, herbal and luxe grüner, lime douse throughout as a seamless account filled with fruit, basaltic tension, texture and grip. Finishes properly salty and long. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023
Villa Tolnay Olaszrizling Csobáncz Welschriesling Balatoni* 2022, Csobánc
“Even if olaszrizling is not considered a class “A” variety it can be a great expression of terroir,” says Philipp Oser and it should be added, in more than one way. If you compare to Steirmark this is picked a bit earlier but extracted to make it a be richer iteration – and yet find the 12.5-13.0 alcohol by volume sweet spot. The terroir is a mix of basalt and sedimentary layer of powdery white sand left over from the ancient Panonian Sea – brings that fine limestone acidity to the wines and they come out specifically salty. It’s the combination and yes, this begins rich and finishes lean and salty. Further away from Lake Balaton so cooler there and less humid following lower sun refraction as compared to the volcano vineyards down by the water. Class A or not this should never, ever by used to spritz it up. No fröccs from this olaszrizling. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
From a vintage that was too dry and yet this entry into Villa Tolnay’s rizling does well to make a layered tripartite mix from purchased sandstone-soil fruit (south shore Balaton) mixed with Badascony (hill) and the Csobánc hill’s basalt. A lovely entry plus mid-palate middle weight grip of phenols and preserved citrus, well balanced between creamy and crunchy. Fruit and succulence work together for gratification and this easy glide down the gullet. No need for esoteric complexity but just enjoyment. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Villa Tolnay Csobáncz Rizling Rajnai Kápolna-Domb Balatoni *** 2020, Csobánc
Premium single rizling, varietal and vineyard, from the start an understood haute level of aromatic concentration with seamless transition to feeling the same coming off of the palate. Incidentally the “Z” is added to the hill’s name because of labelling laws and so it becomes a proprietary name from a monopole. Intensity of citrus from the chapel hill (Kápolna-Domb) with a nod to Burgundian philosophy. The two best (1200 and 1800L) casks are chosen for this top expression. Length to the top of the Csobánc and back down. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023
Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project NR3 Feat. Villa Tolnay Balaton 2020
A micro-négoce project where Roland seeks producers to bottle wines under the label and Hungary’s contribution includes Philipps’s two-part varietal wine – blending riesling and furmint, nearly half and half. “The idea is fTükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobáncirst of all, for us and for the region, the furmint could be the Panonain riesling,” tells Philipp. “I’m convinced here at lake Balaton, some great rieslings are being produced.” All estate selections, complimentary, especially after some bottle aging because the furmint fruitiness mixing with the riesling’s saltiness marry so well together. The salty and sapid elements are strongest, the fruit laying lower but it does create the mid-palate texture and structure. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Villa Tolnay Furmint Tükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobánc
Pure furmint from the two estate blocks, only separated by a small road, right by the cantina but considered a single vineyard wine. Certainly less aromatically expressive but the basaltic terroir is beautifully expressed like aligoté as it pertains to Bourgogne. Low pH and high acidity yet far from a scintillant sear with relatively neutral citrus and tart stone fruit. Compressed and confident. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Villa Tolnay Tenger Fehér Cuvée Weiss ** 2022, Csobánc
In Hungarian meaning “the sea,” Villa Tolnay’s white cuvée, for an audience that appreciates a white appellative style. Always 40 per cent-ish chardonnay withy rizling, olaszrizling and grüner veltliner. “With this wine we cover a much bigger surface,” says Philipp Oser. And still the mineral, basaltic terroir and winemaking acumen is shown. Never a cuvée of leftovers, a window into Philipp’s philosophy, experience and soul. Perhaps a Burgundian style with barrel fermentation involved with malo and lees for a creamy, quite getable and amenable style. Very lemon oriented, like Mâcon-Villages, seamless, balanced and much finer than expected. Would drink this everyday. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Villa Tolnay Furmint Méthode Traditionelle Extra Brut Balatoni 2020
A 24 months on lees sparkling furmint from the volcanic Csobánc hill. Young vines picked on point to make this delightful, expressive, fashionable and delicious bubble. Mousse is full, fruit matters and acidity meets salinity at a point to put this in great steading. Couldn’t be happier if there were other grapes involved because there is no need – the hill, the maker and the style all get together for quietly simple and energetic distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Borászat Winery
Káli Kövek Borászat Winery
Borászat means “winemaker’s” and Szabó Gyula is the winemaker of Káli Kövek Borászat Winery in the Káli Basin of the Balaton uplands. Most of his graoes come from the slopes of volcanic buttes made up of basalt fragments mixed with clay and brown earth. Structurally speaking the volcanic tuff and sedimentary rocks create soils of rich mineral and fossil content. A very Mediterranean climate with more than 2,000 sunshine hours yearly.
Káli Kövek Olaszrizling Rezedal PDO Válogatás 2022, Káli Basin
A varietal olaszrizling from the Káli Basin of terroir mixing volcanic origin with limestone. From winemaker Gyula Szabó. This doubles down on the saltiness like few other – a searing and dual-stony example that so reminds of aligoté in its most intense form. Perfect gateway entry into the grape and place. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Monoszló Jufhfark Pangyér Dülö 2022, PDO Káli, Káli Basin
Just 1,000 bottles produced of this rare Hungarian variety for which five producers maximum take on, aged in Inox and wood. Growers’ fruit, 30 year-old vines, sour lemon character, intense and salty style, salivating and soliciting the need for more. Crunchy stuff, tart and maximum tang acceded. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Zôld Veltlini 2022, PDO Káli, Káli Basin
A grüner veltliner from the volcanic “black hill” estate grapes, 30-plus year-old vines harvested later, yet short of late to get into sweetness territory. Wild ferment, notable lees effect to counteract the basaltic saltiness and piercing quality shown with extreme direct hit by the olaszrizling and juhfark. Feels a miles away from Austria and surely the terroir trumps anything that grüner should be or at least for this sideways clone. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Furmint 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin
From the parcel (Dülö) called Kütfoi on the volcanic black hill (Halom-Hegy) in the village of Dörgisce and difficult to work with because the grape likes and tends to develop non-noble, as in the non-beneficial botrytis. A full mouthful of furmint that fleshes and develops before showing its stripes and mature charm. Most fascinating wine!! Develops an oily fatness with time to only increase the curiosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Köveskál Olaszrizling Fekete Hegy Töltés Dülö 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin
Varietal olazrizing from estate fruit out of the village of Köveskál and a parcel called Töltés Dülü on the volcanic hill of Fekete. Richer than the cuvée for sure with some next level aromas for one, of white to yellow blossoms, followed by tart white peach flesh. There is some fantasy with this olaszrizling, sharp, tart and built aboard lemon-lime citrus flavours. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Káli Kövek Szentbékkálla Pinot Noir Rosé Oreghegy Dülö 2021, Káli Basin
A pinot noir Rosé fermented in barrel and no red was made so this is the only pressing of that fruit. Szentbékkálla (village) is the western part Öreghegy-Dülö of the black (Fekete) hill. Massive flavour from grapes destined for red wine, if not in the next vintage, surely the one after that. A 2021 Rosé of strawberry flesh and great acid intertwine that delivers such a satisfying stylistic experience. Fully formed in hue, aromas, flavour and finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Laposa Birtok
The winery’s origins (back in 1978) are a merger between two families, a barrel maker (József Laposa of the Laposa family from Budapest) and a winemaker (Eleonóra of the Barabás family from Badacsony). Located on the side of Badacsony hill making mostly white wines, working with traditional, local grape varieties. The biggest plots are in Badacsony, Csobánc and Köves-hill. Production is approximately 500,000 bottles a year with a focus on welschriesling, rhine riesling, pinot gris, kéknyelű, furmint and juhfark.
Laposa Pezsgö Habléany Anno 1888 Methode Charmat Balatoni Brut
Pure furmint, Charmat Method, green fig, creamy and them’s fighting acids to seek some balance. Refreshing, wine bar creative and serviceable with distinction. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Laposa Pino Szürkebarát Badacsonyi 2022
A multi pinot assemblage but from just one half hectare (of the gris) in Szürkebarát. The label’s Pi symbol is shown to represent all the different pinots. Simple and fresh, clean, quietly stainless steel reductive style through there are no flint or sulphide elements anywhere in the aromatic mix. Carries some fine bitters to give it just enough complexity to be more than just a simple sipping pi. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Laposa Kéknyelü Badacsonyi 2022
The kéknyelü was one of the first mentioned varieties in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so to pollinate another variety must be grown nearby, thus something like budai sold is used. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only 80 hectares exist and they are all here in Badascony. Fermented in steel, 70 per cent of which is sent to 35 hL barrels, bottled the spring after vintage. From two parcels on two hills, one being Basacsony and the neighbouring one. In better years they are separate bottlings but here they are blended. Semi-aromatic, buoyed by lees and tasting like preserved lemon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Laposa Olaszrizling 4Hegy Badasconyi 2022
Varietal olaszrizling from four hills, they being, harvested and fermented separately, put to four barrels. The flagship wine of the winery’s 30 hectares, here a mid-range olaszrizling. Surprisingly ripe and luxe example though the mid-palate does not quite keep up with the initial peach and longan beginning. Returns to form, acids stretch out the fruit and the finish carries forward. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Laposa Olaszrizling Kápolna Badasconyi 2017
From a single block on the Csobánc, a.k.a. the “chapel hill” (without the add-on Z because it is in the official appellation) and next to Villa Tolnay. Concentration, low-yielding single sites vines and of course age have conspired to bring this into a petrol-phenolic space where grip and unction coincide. There is some fine and taut spin to this olaszrizling, quite fine and precise to be sure. In the window now and should drink beautifully for two-plus further seasons. Lovely example of the grape from Badasconyi. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
With Csaba Török, 2HA
2HA
Csaba Török is the proprietor of 2HA Vineyard and Winery in the Badacsony wine region aboard the Szent György Hill on the north side of Lake Balaton. Török started with two hectares (thus the name)and is now cultivating a four hectare organic vineyard. One of the smallest operations and one that guarantees all the vines are farmed with special, personal treatment, further reflected in the wines that are produced. Csaba is a huge proponent of red varieties, including shiraz, merlot and sangiovese. This is clearly antithetical to most of the white wines made by producers on a number of basaltic terroirs but the future may just be red. One never knows.
2HA Olaszrizling Szent György Hegy 2022, Badacsony
From two of Csaba Török’s oldest sets of vines, bottled three weeks ago, harvested in late September, aged in old 225L barrels, malolactic always encouraged. No filtration and since the beginning (which was 2007) this is the way his wines have been made. Hard to find more texture captured and says Török, “this is my style, whether people like it to not. I don’t like the others.” To be honest there is something hypnotic about the energy in this olaszrizing, a buzz that you feel by tasting it. And this is the entry level wine because everyone raises this variety on the Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023
2HA Pinot Gris “5” Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony
A little bit of skin contact for the pinot gris, half a day maybe but Csaba Török likes this and would probably do more if there was room in his small press. If this aroma has ever come from pinot gris before it would be good to know where and when. Only 400 bottles (of a usual 2000) were produced because of a green harvest mistake and so imagine the high levels of acidity, ripeness, concentration and heterogeneity in the aromas, flavours and accents. It all comes forward and trips the palate with fantastic if unprecedented Basasconyi effect. Was harvested on the 15th of August, with alcohol at 13.5 percent alcohol and the most magical conversion rate in the place. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
2HA Pinot Gris Orange Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony
Skin contact but not all that long (less than 10 days), not long enough to truly get to Orange and yet that’s the name. Still the colour is truly candied or watermelon pink. Implosive and inwardly intense, layering within and upon itself with an almost pint noir character and sensibility that confuses the palate and the senses. How is this orange wine? In theory and practice perhaps but the result, effect and reality is something completely other. One of the most unique wines made anywhere in the world. Oh the fascination and the humanity! The changing climate does mean that its shelf life is diminishing (as proven by an August 15th pick) but for now the present is exciting. It’s all pinot in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
2HA Cabernet Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony
Labeled cabernet but it’s only cabernet franc and just proves that Csaba Török is a more highly evolved thinker than everyone else in the world. Smells precisely like franc or as it were, cabernet. Green in the best way, herbal in the sweetest matter and herbaceous as the savoury beast it needs to be. Wood is the spice and the accenting addendum, not the driver nor the star. Tar and char but fruit is the heart of the matter. Excellent and yet far from his best red wine work. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
2HA Shiraz Szent György-Hegy 2019, Badacsony
“Shiraz is a big challenge for me every year,” tells Csaba Török. “You have to catch it at exactly the right time.” Csaba feels this is a perfectly prime vintage and the style may be considered in a Swartland vein but dig deeper, concentrate and note the specific gamey-meatiness that’s much more Euro. The skins are not old man wrinkled and so the peppery spice and chalky underlay are more northern Rhône if you need to make a connection. This is blood sausage coagulation and iodine intensity from syrah called shiraz because it’s just another name. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023
2HA Sangiovese Szent György-Hegy Tabunello 2019, Badacsony
A self-professed and yet clearly the sangiovese specialist aboard the Szent György-Hegy. A play on words with the nod more than obvious but the connection ends there. Tuscany maybe but Brunello? Not so much. The wood is 40 percent new and medium toast, the style high acid, sour edged and more than unique. Once again a look at a grape from a place that’s unlike anything else with very little reference point. Meaty like the shiraz and yet the acetic notions are voiced with varietal and local knowledge. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
2HA Merlot Szent György-Hegy Courage 2011, Badacsony
Called “Courage” because merlot needs nobility and saying that it makes this deserving of some praise. This was the second vintage and the last made by Csaba Török. After that it began to be blended with other grapes like the cabernets. A bit foxy and chalky but it has aged quite well, in fact it’s going strong with nary a true set of secondary circumstances. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
PAP Wines
PAP wines is a small biodynamic winery making self-professed “vins de garage” style wines. It was founded by Aron Molnár and Karina Vissonova, who cultivate 4.8 hectares of vineyards with biodynamic methods. Pap is located on the south and southeast slopes of Mount St. George (Szent György-hegy) and their credo reads as “our job is to bottle this truth.” Their small selection is up to 8,000 bottles, crafted with low intervention and containing very low to no sulphites and no additives. The wines are matured in oak barrels on lees, unfiltered at bottling. They specialize in pinot noir and a ‘Bazalt’ cuvée, szürkebarát (pinot gris) and olaszriszling, as well as kéknyelü, hárslevelü, szürkebarát and olaszriszling for skin-contact wines.
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Szürkébarat Tuff Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony
A pinot gris from the tuff soils on the shores of Lake Balaton of just what feels like perhaps just one day of skin contact, aged in barriques, unfined and unfiltered. Unfeigned natural wine so to speak, lemon curd in all respects, phenolic and welcoming. Refreshing and textural, clean and juicy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Hárslevelü Jumis Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony
A varietal hárslevelü, descendent of furmint grown on the shores of Lake Balaton. Skin contact, not forever but a few too three or fours days it feels, orange in a way and then again just a local pinot gris. Really clean and emptying into the complex basin of light and refreshing whites of hue, distinction, sweetly natural and ripe phenolics. Almost crunchy but more gliding and sliding across the palate with salty goodness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Olaszrizling Or(e) Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony
Aromatically distinct to potentially challenging with an aldehydic accent from olaszrizling grown near the shores of Balaton. Like Manzanilla with green olive brine, full on sapidity and in most respects so apposite to the salty pinot gris and truly saline hárslevelü. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Kékmelü-Olaszrizling Don’t Tell Mama Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony
The blend is a macerated joint between kékmelü and olaszrizling from the north side of Lake Balaton that seeks the cool factor and finds it, but the wine while salty and a product of organic, natural wine and no sulphites credo, well, the je ne sais quois is yet out of reach. Love the idea and the flavours but perhaps an extra level of intensity and fantasy would seal the deal. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Pinot Noir Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony
Natural, organic (not certified), unfined, unfiltered and in 2021, a very promising vintage as it happens, delivering a ripe pinot noir. High acid, intensely acid structured and tart to the nth degree. It’s cool climate but the vintage brings the phenolics and also the juiciness of all angles, sharp tang and length. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Bazalt Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony
A cuvée from the very good 2021 for the natural producer, built on cabernet franc (and likely kékfrankos) with a proper combination of ripeness and acidity. Sweet fruit and that level of acidity caught between beauty and intensity to create some fantasy and magic. This hill holds a future for red grapes and in particular kék, also hopefully kadarka but cabernet franc is surely the grape of least risk involved. Good work no doubt, rich enough to gain attention and as clean as so many would prefer in the context of “natural” wines. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Somló Hill
Somló
Somló is an 832 hectare wine region (530 planted top vines) in Veszprém county, in the North-West of Hungary and is the smallest of Hungary’s 22 wine regions. Juhfark, a native grape that survived the phylloxera epidemic, is planted almost exclusively in Somló. Two modern day winemakers chose quality, they being Imre Györgykovács and Béla Fekete, opening a new Somló renaissance after decades of obscurity. Much is happening today and new winemakers are very interested in this singular volcanic hill. The 432m high Somló hill is surrounded by a flat terrain, formed four to five million years ago as a result of a volcanic eruption. The terroir is basalt and volcanic ash tuff, while the lower areas are mainly loamy loess. On this visit we were graciously hosted up on the hill’s cantina to a most informative and quite frankly comprehensively representative tasting by Eva Cartwright, long time procurer of Somló wines.
With John Szabo M.S. and Eva Cartwright at Somloi
Somlói Vandor Pince Celli Dunántülu Juhfark 2021, Somló
From the volcanic Somló hill, stand alone away from the dozen or so others in the Balatonyi and a field blend despite the label announcing the variety as juhfark. Taut, high acidity that feels upwards of 8 g/L and mixed with 13 percent alcohol to incite this doubling down of local intensity. Salty and the sapid, then back aging before feeling warm and peppery into the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Tornai Juhfark Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló
Varietal juhfark from the volcanic Somló hill and a best possible iteration from Tornai that will not tear love apart. A quality juhfark to be very sure, sapid and viscous, mature and with enough glycerin to really coat the palate. Must try interest here, like a cross between chenin blanc and viognier. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Tornai Furmint Apátsági Top Selection 2020, Somló
Varietal furmint from the volcanic Somló hill where this grape thrives, as it does in many basaltic Balaton area collines but something extra seems to exist here. Compound complexity and interest, fully formed ripenesses and then textures, substantial fruit and a sweet saltiness streaking through. Some glycerol fantasy as well in spite of the sweetness provided by the wood. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Tornai Hárslevelü Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló
Varietal hárslevelü from the volcanic Somló hill and a definite cheese intonation which directs what to do for best pairing results. Only 12.5 percent alcohol but there is grip, flesh and structural hang, so be impressed if you dare. More interesting than the furmint, less oak textural-glycerol cloy and yet not quite the substance of the juhfark, in the end. Impression times three here, viognier-like power and full to the very, slightly nutty two bitter end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Fekete Pince Hárslevelü Somlóí 2018, Somló
Varietal hárslevelü with some age on ‘im and a Manzanilla notation now, briny and green olive sharp. Taut still but surely moving along and interest in terms of what to eat (chicken Kiev comes to local mind) and so the intersect involves phenols, petrol and fried chicken and cheesy ham goodness, a.k.a. “Gordon Blue.” In the zone for certain reasons and anyway marching forward so make sure their is food and the wine is chilled. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023
Fekete Pince Furmint Somlóí 2020, Somló
Varietal furmint that shows the youth of Somló with a similar Manzanilla profile and phenolic grip but quite youthful here – yet to transfer power to next level food pairing necessity. The volcanic hill is not one to deliver fruity wines and yet complexity, as you will duly note right here, runs dramatically and fantastically high. Which grape between the two (including hárslevelü) is better suited to the hill and a true Balatonyi palate? Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023
Fekete Pince Juhfrark Somlóí 2019, Somló
Somló is simply the home of juhfark, a grape identified from and matched to the volcanic hill in ways others can’t quite get. Aromatics may not be the thing of expectation but they are filled with delectable fantasy and dream on from there forward. This is citrus unknown, not lemon or the type to think in terms of grassy extras but it’s something inviting, invigorating and shameless. What is this? Hard to say but it’s hyper real and curious. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023
Fekete Pince Cuvée Somlóí 2019, Somló
A Cuvée from the hill known as Somló and likely a mix of four varieties planted there, they being hárslevelü, furmint, juhfrark and olaszrizling. While all three varietal wines from this volcanic place are special in their own right, layer and stack them in a cuvée for something truly other. And special. This has the ilk, glycerin, phenolics, resins, salts, sapid sways and complex flavours. Truth to the idea once again for the Balatonyi that appellative white blends can really tie the basins together. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023
Good to go!
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Balaton
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