At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Warm days have awoken the vines in Tuscany, the defiant 2025 Ontario winter has been reluctant to end, Spring has not sprung and 45 days have past since the 32nd edition of the Chianti Classico Collection came to another decisive and triumphant conclusion. Sustainability was the central theme in 2025 with talk of a new commitment by producers in their move towards a “sustainable future and respect for the region.” As always sangiovese remained the star for two-days of intensive tasting and continuing education studies with never enough thanks afforded to the organization of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and execution of the Tuscan sommeliers. The most recent vintages showed off their prowess to a macroscale contingent of fully attentive international journalists seated at the Stazione Leopolda tasting tables for two immersive days. Between 2016 and 2024 recurrent hyperbole has been expressed on these Godello pages about the consistent forward strides made by Chianti Classico producers and still their passion and ethic persists. Chianti Classico wines have never acceded the level they are at right now, reputation is at an all-time high and the peak is far from reached. Should you either be blind to the obvious or just beginning to realize the importance of the Gallo Nero, fear not because the best is yet to come.

Related – Harvest report 2024: Retro Chianti Classico

Godello tasting at The Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Hai le fette di salame sugli occhi

A short note from Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico President Giovanni Manetti on US tarrfis: “We are particularly concerned about the repercussions that the 20% tariff imposed on imports could have on the export of our wines, and we must have faith that the choice made by the Trump Administration will be addressed as soon as possible by our Italian and European leaders. Us producers will now have to work together to shoulder the heavy economic burden that will result from the imposition of these tariffs on the U.S. market.  We will continue on, though, strong in our conviction that the American consumers who have always loved and enjoyed Chianti Classico will remain loyal to our quality wines, the Black Rooster, and to our unique region that’s present in each of our bottles.”

Chianti Classico Collection 2025

What to expect from 2024 Chianti Classico?

Near the end of 2024 Godello speculated on the quality of  the 2024 vintage, but also how it may resemble some blasts from the past. “The summer of ’24 was typically hot and dry but all that changed after September 7th because in some parts of the region nearly 400 ml of rain fell over the following seven weeks. Unprecedented amounts of water, well at least if you look back at the previous 30 years. August of 1995 saw rain like that and previous to that there was plenty of precipitation and cool harvest temperatures in 1991 and 1993. Fast forward again to 2024 and the the constant deluge of mid-September through to late October ends up becoming the cruelest stretch. Days on end when tractors are unable to enter the vineyards, harvest crews repeatedly pause on stand by because picking wet grapes is a cardinal sin and prayers are made for two straight days of sunshine to happen anytime and anywhere. From Greve to Castellina, San Donato in Poggio to Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli to Gaiole, San Casciano to Radda, in Montefioralle, Panzano and Lamole. Bunches are dropped because tight sangiovese clusters encourage the development of mold from within and the waiting game is excruciating for many. Patience is the greatest virtue and yet sugars are developing slowly, like the old days, piano-piano, as they like to say. In the end a classic vintage in the ways of days of old is declared, with phenolic ripeness achieved because of the longest hang-time since 1993, the same year Juventus’ Roberto Baggio scores five goals in seven international matches for Italy. Drinkable sangiovese, elegant, ripe, low alcohol and a good number blessed with sneaky structure. Producers are pleased with the freshness and ethereal beauty. The tank samples are bloody delicious. Pure sangiovese. Retro Chianti Classico.”

Related – 100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

“First and foremost on so many producers minds are the alcohol levels topping out at 13.5 percent. If you see 14.0 abv on a bottle in 2026 or beyond you can bet the actual number is just above that 13.5 Mason-Dixon line and in some cases 13.5 could in actuality be just a shade above 13.0. Lighter wines as a general rule, but age-worthy because of phenolic ripeness, at least in cases where producers waited, waited some more and picked as late as possible. Expect to see straight through the transparent hues of Chianti Classico sangiovese for 2024, to sense, taste and feel the brightest and potentially sweetest acidities, then finally the silkiest if also most elastic tannins. The 2024 acids will be the catalyst for aging these sangiovese. Anyone under the age of 50 will have likely never experienced a Chianti Classico vintage like 2024 and potentially never will again.”

Related – Chianti Classico 2023: A year in review

With Michaela Morris at Stazione Leopolda, Chianti Classico Collection 2025

A reminder that any Chianti Classico anteprime report on the Florence Collection must make clear that it is always a multi-vintage presentation. Also incumbent on a journalist is to express the importance of understanding the Annata in terms of what kinds of wines will come from a same vintage Riserva and Gran Selezione. The three appellative wines are intrinsically connected and so the Annata will foreshadow the future. There are producers who choose to present their just bottled Annata each February, if only because they qualify for what can be released under Consorzio rules, which in this case means the 2023s and this year unfinished tank samples account for 35 percent of that season’s total. The bulk (meaning nearly three out of every four) Annata made available to taste are from 2022, 2021 and 2020. The assessment of the campione is more of a trial and error exercise because hit or miss raw samples are so often challenging to get a read on. For the 2025 Collection it is safe to say that the 2022 Annata are to be considered as the current vintage. They are a powerful lot and though lower in quantity, they arrive in stark contrast to 2021s of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers choose to keep their wines behind, to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle.

The 2025 Collection also marked the 50th Anniversary of the Chianti Classico DOP Olive Oil Consorzio and included a record number of Black Rooster exhibitors. There were 2018 wineries presenting 790 labels to the press, industry professionals and general public. In addition to the Collection presentation in Firenze, this most recent trip also included visits made with producers within the territory. As a follow-up, a second report will publish next week to include the wines tasted at those estates. There were 544 wines available at the sommelier-assisted tables and the following are 185 reviews covering all 11 UGAs for the three appellative levels of Chianti Classico DOCG tasted over two consecutive days in the Stazione Leopolda at the February 2025 Chianti Classico Collection.

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Juicy as they come and while a sample it is simply too early to fully assess the full extent known of this very forthright Rubiolo 2023. A pure sangiovese of high fruit content red and juicy, open and generous, nearly ready to express itself. Another six months and this could not only be bottled but rearing to please.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Really full and substantial sangiovese if like many 2023 barrel samples there is a tightness about its aromatics. Not close fisted like other vintages but also not completely open or generous either. Tannins are a bit grippy and their muscular pipes must come down from the mountain and relax before any sort of joy can be found. And it will.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021, Nessuna Unità

LeVigne, Riserva from the Istine vines in Radda plus Gaiole to create Angela Fronti’s full scale selection. LeVigne and the reason why these vineyards all need to be the best they can be, to justify a Riserva label, especially now that each of the three are giving fruit to produce Gran Selezione. No severe loss for Riserva although it may take a few years for allocations to truly be figured out so that this wine will continue to stay at peak.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2024

Castellina

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Juicy, soft, amenable, drinkable to each and every degree. That is the point and the exclamation. Just the faintest hint of grainy texture and vanillin by wood that will integrate with six more months in bottle. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, Castellina

Big bones and a wave of exotic perfume defining the vintage and for Castellina. I mean it’s Gran Selezione and so 2022 is really young. Feels like the wine is still refining while it stiff arms your palate to ward off the tackle and so surely too early to be tasting. Speaks to the idea of a window opening before a some other number UGA ‘22s but the time is far from nigh. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2023, Castellina

Warm and inviting aromatic condition with this high elevation part of Castellina’s eastern ridge effecting a combination of sweet volatility and cool factor. A curious and potentially profound juxtaposition provided time chooses to sooth the grip and force that exists in the earliest stages of this wine. Just sangiovese and meaningful, raw and powerful, boozy to a degree but know that this place makes this kind of Chianti Classico. Return two years from now for the opening salvo. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

Big and bountiful, rich and powerful while always just restrained enough to feel the natural beauty in the face of fruit meeting alcohol brawn. The place determines the result and 2022 could do nothing but make a big Buondonno as Riserva. A wow factor mélange of fruit and fine-grained tannin looking for the catalyst of acidity to control this manifest destiny. Two years rest will secure the result. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The beautiful family of Marta Buondonno

Capraia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Wood off the top with a blush of make-up in vanilla, lavender and almond paste. Coats the palate with a salve and while the hope could be for a soft and creamy sangiovese – the wine does not come to that. Drying and chalky but in a liquid grainy way. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2021, Castellina

Spices all over the nose, baking and those that define the stews and braises of Toscana. A truly woody Gran Selezione, grabbing our attention, letting us know it’s there for the taking. Tannins do dry out at the finish but do not wait because the fruit will not improve or get any younger. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A most pure and surely glycerol sangiovese with (five percent) canaiolo as soft and creamy as they come from Castellina, or anywhere in the territory. Generous and amenable, a veritable mouthful of fruit and wood softened and melted into the fabric of the wine. Very modern, plush and easy. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2019, Castellina

Paronza 2019 has bided time and allowed itself to mature into an adult version of Gran Selezione. Now mature and settled, caramelizing into secondary character and showing like a sangiovese having entered its postmodern age. Chewy, of liquorice and dried persimmon, its acidity expressed in the reduced Balsamico way.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Unique example with aromatics unlike any other but for now they are mostly caused by the stay in wood. Vanilla yes but also what feels like the effects of American oak. Coconut like Rioja mixed with Napa Valley but sangiovese is rendered “different” because, well sangiovese. Needs two years to come fully together and will outlive many, darkening and thickening as it matures. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted October 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A grand mix of aromas, in part from the surround of forest and the other a vineyard exposition at elevation and open to the elements. A lightning strike of sangiovese as bright and intense as any you will find in the whole of the territory but that is the crux of this Castellina situation. Intensity thy name is Castagnoli.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Well made, drink early sangiovese with acidity in tow behind fruit though just sapid enough with thanks to (five percent) mitigating canaiolo. A thoughtful and well judged Annata with 2023 bones and flesh for open season Chianti Classico hunting. Get at Castellare now because it offers more than most without the necessary requiem for aging. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Castellina

Solid construct in Riserva form from Castellare, rich and fulsome, dark fruited, red-faced and fine. Elegant sangiovese, so well thought about and crafted, spicy, spiced and open. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

High tonality, brightness and also lightness of red, red fruit though this sample of the 2021 Castellina Gran Selezione houses some Brettanomyces. Sweet fruit and acidity though tannins are somewhat hard as a result. Hoping for some relief after time brings all the elements together.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted February 2024

Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Fine liquid elixir of sangiovese without adornment or distraction in this pure example of Castellina Chianti Classico. Simple and so bloody effective for what the Annata needs to express and how they should attract a willing audience. Drink without any care in the world. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

The story of a family – this to explain the reasons behind a Chianti Classico Annata of accumulation, of the years and a season. Warm and peach fuzzy, red cherry stylish with a hint of citrus pit bitters and acidity as cracker sharp as ever. A touch lactic and therefore tang is the operative word.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

Taut and still somewhat reductive Gran Selezione from Castellina, not yet ready to calm, settle and release. A red fruit profile quite intense and acidity doing much the same. Needs to chill, relax and integrate, melt in its upfront barrel and come away with a new attitude, in new light. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Still working through its motions and machinations, this for a sangiovese from Castellina that fits the vintage profile, of fruit darker than almost any since 2016. Quite tannic, still a bit grainy and the impressive stature by structure is in charge. Big for Pomona, likely higher in alcohol than many, not a throwback by any stretch and drying at the finish. Give this time, plenty of precious time and look to better days ahead . Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Gallule 2021, Castellina

Riserva may be on its own but it already reveals much about itself. The separate entity that is Gran Selezione (from Castellina, not Panzano) does the opposite with wood so very much upfront and a tannic touch weighing down as freight below. As full a wine as Gagliole will make, however the barrel holds all the current cards. Comes away creamy and there needs to be some integration to get where it wants to go. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

There has never been a Lornano Chianti Classico with more upfront dark fruit and manageable structure as this out of the 2022 vintage. Nothing previous has acted so open and generous as this Annata, nor have we not had to wait for so short a time for grip and tannin to subside. Perhaps they were never fully there? Well no, the wine shows the stuffing of a warm and fulfilling year but there are few from Castellina that act this way. What sorcery is this pray tell? So curious and frankly also delicious. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La squadra – Casale Dello Sparviero

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Sangiovese with five percent colorino and canaiolo first produced in 2014 now with the image of Siena’s skyline on the label. Soils are clay with some limestone and for Giacomo “the 2022 is better in the mouth.” Aged in a mix of Tuscan, Slovenian and French oak, “essential for aromatic complexity.” Now just in bottle for a bit more than a month, expressive of fruit in a broad way and the tannins are present in two parts, of softness and then in fine grains. Nardi picks on skin and alcohol – not on the pips. He insists they don’t necessarily have to be crunchy and brown. Surely a reaction to climate change and because he wants to make a wine of drinkability. Makes sense in Castellina and yes, there is more than ample ripeness in his 2022. Well done, Giacomo. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2021, Castellina

The first vintage was 2016, the following vintage was so hot and dry but Nardi did the yeoman work and made a truly drinkable wine. The 2021 is blessed of the good if basic red fruit vintage, here with more polish and refinement as compared to the Annata. You can feel the passion and the piety in this work. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: A 2020 and still not bottled which can only be for two reasons. Either the wine has been a serious challenge to clean up or the tannic structure is so formidable as to be the requiem for further time. In any case there is some noted volatility but no major faults or issues with sweet fruit, equal acidity and yes the backbone of the wine is sangiovese serious. Upright, vertical and the tannic profile demanding. Needs more time.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness.  Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG l’Aura 2023, Castellina

Herbal entry, a pesto of sweet greens swirled into tomato and tart fruits for another unique 2023 when many others feel cut from a similar cloth. In any case the unction runs deep and the flavours too, the acidity keeps pace and the structure is solid, if not the kind that measures quite the same. Adds up to a promising mid-term Annata. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Unsurprising as a 2023 already bottled and ready for the market. Prèt a porter, fruit set up to talk the Maciè talk without hesitation and for all to take in right here, right now. Acids are soft and sweet, tannins never there. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Tenuta Le Maciè Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sergioveto 2022, Castellina

Indubitably Famiglia Zingarelli as a Riserva and for that matter any or all of their sangiovese. A mix of ripest fruit available at Le Maciè put to great barrel for thickening effect. This is the sort of Riserva you can chew on, swirling around the palate with creamy, red berry goodness. There are no holes or moments taken off, just a seamless and consistent wine from start to finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2021, Castellina

Really quite amazed at how approachable the Sergio Zingarelli Gran Selezione 2021 is acting this early in its tenure. A great vintage no doubt and yet not necessarily a sangiovese with it’s back against the wall, nor is there any reason to fear it’s tannic presence. No, fruit is king, generous and beautiful. A fine and fortuitous example that leads with its best foot forward, open and likely to stay this way for a few years. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Visibly luminescent, highly aromatic and distinctly seasoned for 2022 Chianti Classico Annata. Crisp and vocal, crunchy and liquid chalky, squared at its corners, yet not far away from softening, rounding and curving those edges. Tannins are still firm and in command.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2024

Tenute di Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigne Del Montornello 2021, Castellina

Montornello shows its stripes and flavours, wearing its emotions on the sleeves of its structure with all the vineyard notions in tow. Magnificent array of colours, aromas and flavours, in reds, blacks and blues, never relenting, welling up from a well of mineral and elemental happenstance. Big vintage for this Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Youthful and yet reductive, lightly white peppery infiltrate through the red rose floral bouquet. Syrupy in mouthfeel with high level tang and a fullness welling for the palate and low down at the finish. Lots of glycerin and a slight paste feel at the finish. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2022, Castellina

The work of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola and his natural of natural procurements, the firsts from ’21 and ’20 with their classic earthy funk – but no more, The clean and crisp clarity out of 2022 is a cause for sense of wonder and the precocious abilities of said maker are in plain view. Fruit is securely ripe, tannins are severely restrained and the orange citrus acidity does the rest. The risk has clawed back to a safer space which sterilizes the wine just a touch. The best is still to come and yet with 2022 you have to give credit because it’s due. Bravo Cosimo. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

In bottle from 2023 and so not a sample but for a maker who picks relatively late (often well into October) the time spent before bottling is less than many. And so come expecting some awkward moments, even from the beginning because the wine has just not settled and transformed into what it will be. Not for a moment and many will be confounded if tasted this early. Revisit in eight months time.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The world of Tregole comes to the Gran Selezione appellation with late harvested fruit for it to translate as a fuller and more concentrated wine. More tannic freight then Annata and Riserva combined, now weighing in with trenchant and layered intention. Needing time to settle and find its way, this 2021 from Sophie Conte is some kind of unexpected tour de force. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

A Castellina Annata always held back and aged longer than most, at least one year and released as much as two later than the current 2023s coming to market. With thanks because my goodness the tannic profile is a tight and immovable one. Getting there slowly, nearly in stride and the wine should offer its height of pleasure by this time next year. For now there should be a lean cut of beef on the grill, a baseball top sirloin if you will, rested and sliced rare alongside. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Reductive and über primary with a sweet volatility in charge of the aromas. So very much in the house style where fruit is large and structure larger. There is no reason to expect the world and pass early judgement because there is little to see here in terms of a finished wine. Time needs to pass before it finds its way.  Tasted twice at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Mineral, material, meaningful and of a clarity that Dofana does not show nor declare in 2020. Montaperto is clean living, sharp and focused Gran Selezione. Ripeness secured, acidity rising and tannins seething like a slow-simmered sauce, never rushed and developing complexities. A fine GS that shows the way for this Castelnuovo Berardenga terroir though still needing a few years to realize its potential. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

To taste a Castell’In Villa this early seems unusual to say the least and maybe even wrong. These are some of Chianti Classico’s longest lived wines, even at the Annata level and yet…and yet there is joy, light and promise right from the start. Hard to believe but here we are in the modern world and the house rolls with the changes – with no compromise to structure. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Well settled and comfortable within its Riserva Skin, softening and yet acidity persists at every turn. The driver is just that, sweet and salty, lightly caramelizing the deep red fruit into a state of its maturing accord. Feels like sangiovese from a warm southerly Chianti Classico location surrounded by all the macchia brush and herbs that a forest will provide. The development here tells us this will not be the longest aging Riservas from this estate. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A clear reflection of the house style and the coolest, smoothest and silkiest iteration of Castelnuovo Beradenga. Elevation helps, as does riposte fruit caught at ideal maturity, but also the hands of knowledge, calm demeanour and experience. Bossi’s is such a well-judged, layered and syncopated sangiovese, Bio and proper, come to the world with great effect. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Bossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Bossi’s 2021 is truly a different animal as compared to its Riserva, less forthright, not quite as open or soliciting of immediate gratification. A vertical solo sangiovese expression, seriously structured and needing time. That said there is a brightness and citrus aspect that’s quite invigorating. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Lovely perfume from Bossi’s Riserva and a 100 percent sangiovese that immediately attracts in just this way. A deep well of red fruit rises, coats and then fills the palate for what is simply definitive Riserva for Chianti Classico. No lack for tannins here neither and so come back year after year for five or more for the enhanced and continued experience. The work of a winemaker honing his or her craft is more than apparent. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

An early release 2023, realizing its potential ahead of usual to mark a minor shift in design and expression from Fèlsina. Never missing the evergreen note always prevalent in these sangiovese of southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga and Chianti Classico. A touch dusty and with the Balsamico of the località, though never shocking and really quite expected. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection,  February 2025

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There have been great Colonia made over the past 12 years but does it not just feel like Giovanni Poggiali and his intelligent team have been waiting for 2021 to come along and take this cru to another level? The can’t ever miss style and macchia notes are present and accounted for, but here in the most hyperbole of ways. An exaggeration of riches, a highest level of fitness and fullness not yet uncovered. The 2021 is an amazing wine, minty and white chocolate woody but always evergreen and cool in the face but also as a compliment to its warming heart. Virtuoso performance by ’21 Colonia, a Gran Selezione with the nurturing care of Pietro Pettinaio, in the school of Giuseppe Collignon and Domenico Beccafumi, all in the name of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There’s something happening in Castellina from 2022 because there are wines with darker fruit and more depth than most of the Chianti Classico UGAs. Here with grip and this feeling of sangiovese liqueur exaggerated in colour and heft by the 10 percent colorino in the wine. Quite the extraction and the tannic presence for a profile bigger than Losi of the past. Another curious ’22 Castellina that can’t be ignored. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Quite the silky Castelnuovo sangiovese seasoned with salt, pepper and spices by 10 percent altri vitigni and there is no doubt the team led by Leonardo Bellaccini have found the sweet spot with this vim, relish and vigour 2022. Fruit and structure, one, the other, then back again for more. Incredible considering the quantities produced. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Quite forward and understandable as a sample, fruit certainly full, ripe and still a touch dusty. Not exactly rigid though not yet malleable in terms of mouthful and certainly structure. Well reasoned and so will round out into a good Annata, seasoned and understandably forward. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Nothing else scents like a Tolaini Chianti Classico, no matter the appellative level and in Annata the florals, mint and chocolate are at the height of heights. As is the luxe showiness, strut with feathers extended and beauty for all to see. Tannins are fierce and extensive, not to mention stretched far and long. Wholly impressive at this appellative level. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

With Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli – Villa di Geggiano

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Intensity from an ultra specific località with its descending fluvial screes between two hills. A microclimate unlike those on either side for which the sangiovese receives a mineral deposit all its own and 2022 brings the metal forward in full and proper distribution. Cuts through the fruit with sapid intent while fine if persistent tannins surround the whole. Best to let this ’21 sit for a couple of years. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big vintage for Geggiano’s south-westerly Castelnuovo location transmitted through Riserva with all the fruit, and more. All the silky, cool and gelid feels there could and would ever want to be. Intensity of minerals, Alberese namely and who could not feel this mouthful of metal, gemstone and elements in the mouth. How could you possibly miss it? Sangiovese that stays with you for minutes on end. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Gaiole

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Not exactly closed yet not particularly expressive and so maybe the wish would be for this 2022 from Badia a Coltibuono to wait another year ahead of release. Still it has aged in bottle a year longer than some ‘23s now being presented and time will shift the gears for the wine to express its Coltibuono località. The savour and acidity of forests, elevation and mixed indigenous varieties accenting sangiovese delivers another ultra-specified Chianti Classico Annata. Close your eyes, conjure and recall BdC’s of the past and the 2022 will fall right into line. It could not have been made by just anyone nor have come from anywhere else. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A bit seductive this Riserva from Badia a Coltibuono, it should be supposed because of the vintage and fruit stands up to counted with more immediacy than memory will try to recall. Ripeness to the edge and lingering, suggestive of maturity but in a holding pattern. Liquorice on the palate and again this sort of palaver involved, but then the wine steps back once again. An immediate gratification, in other words a phrase not ever used before to describe a Coltibuono Riserva but there it is and so this vintage is more ready to drink. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2022, Gaiole

The door to “Vertine,” a località within Gaiole that Luca Vitiello and his Bertinga team have chosen to exult, explain and present to the world. Their’s brings more fruit and modern styling to Gaiole and in turn to the whole that is Chianti Classico. A ready for drinking, juicy and openly generous, 100 percent sangiovese for every reason to believe. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2022, Gaiole

A new epoch for Cantalici’s Baruffo begins with this feeling of a transition having happened. Not just because of the clean, cool and ultra clear modernity but also the absence of barrel, or the feeling that wood sheds little importance into this wine. Only sangiovese, expressly Gaiole and yet new for the UGA, or at least different. There is substantial chew in texture that reminds of liquorice and because of aromas meeting style, but also a chalky tannin underneath. No bitters at the finish confirm the change in direction where less has become more. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2021, Gaiole

A mouthful of acidity, tannin and mineral direct and defining Ama’s Montebuoni 2021, a wine not yet mature enough to say the window has opened. Quite woody at this age while the dark fruit is so very substantial and so time is needed to melt them into one another. That acidity and seriousness of Balsamic quality speaks to the Gaiole origin as the source for this level of appellation. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2021, Gaiole

San Lorenzo the concept comes from the vineyard with that name and now the ideal conceives of Gran Selezione as a wine to speak for all of Ama’s Gaiole. The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2020, Gaiole

Bellavista is first and foremost the Gran Selezione only made in select vintages, inclusive of 20 percent malvasia nera and also the one of ripest fruit with a view. The depth in 2020 is serious, the wine at once grounded and then acidity of a Gaiole nature kicks in to lift and see this Bellavista rise. Full and beautiful, seamless, orchestrated by a master of decades and artistic appreciation while delivering a modernist’s virtuoso performance. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Southerly directed Gaiole, Monti in Chianti sangiovese with the bits of malvasia and colorino lending colour and spice accent with liquorice and bokser pod for a dried herb, leathery fruit and botanical iteration. Nicely balanced affair with ample freshness and a settled disposition. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Just five percent merlot softens the sangiovese with many vineyards of the 130 hectares in total contributing. Usually the youngest vines and also some of the plots that experience the warmest climate for the season. Ages 15 months, half in cement and half in large (really old) French cask. No tannic impart and this is about as correct, clean, acid retentive and well adjusted a Chianti Classico as you are want to find. Warm vintage yet freshness and fruit quality is knowably ripe and easy. Less savoury and more fruit centric than in years past.  Last tasted February 2025

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Campione: I mean of course its tight and yet to resolve but this sample by San Giusto shows more wealth of upfront fruit than could have been expected. Darker fruit than 2022 and also 2021, closer to 2020 but once again the individual character of modern vintages can’t be denied. Feels a bit serious at this very early stage but substance at this level will mean a wine that will be held in high regard.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Unsettled sample here from San Giusto, chalky and finely grainy at this earliest of stages. Just a glimpse into what 2022 will become, years further down the road. Can’t really recall a sangiovese from the house showing wood like this but the vintage will show more taciturn moments in wines built to last. Far more tannins present than noted in the last several years, a freight of weight tethered to the fruit, keeping it low and below.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Romantic dinner for two

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Sharp and clean while oh so 2022 but how could it not be? Well to be honest Le Miccine gets the vintage so bloody correct because the mix of fruit and body come together as one. There is no doubt this Annata is just where maker and place wanted it to be so kudos to both for abiding by their mutual bond. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples.  Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2020, Gaiole

In Gran Selezione terms for Chianti Classico Rialzi is about as singular as it gets. Just drive up the road from La Villa in Radda, into Gaiole and through to Perano to know what you are dealing with. Olive trees, cypress, pine, other evergreens, rosemary, sage and brushy greens on your left give away to the single Rialzi Vineyard on your right. All that verdancy translates into these 25 year-old, cordone speronato vines for a very specific Balsamico, drawn from the greens, through the experienced vines and into the fruit. The vineyard was called “I Rialzi,” literally “the lifted up,” or now “the steps, or terraces. Lamberto Frescobaldi always insists “the vineyard matters most,” and in this case that is simply true. Aromatic confusion in a way but more so volume, palate tension and also vintage. Incidentally warmer than 2019, lending more volumetric credence and tending towards a bigger iteration of Gran Selezione. Feels more like the Rialzi of expectation and the kind of structure to go on and on. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2021, Gaiole

Freshness incarnate from the small single hillside Gaiole estate, a quintessential extension from a forest località, whole and fulfilled of its own accord. As equanimous as any Chianti Classico that exists. Silk-threaded and sumptuous from the first through filamented acidity and elastic texture. Tannins are fine, unobtrusive and acquiescing. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Francesco Ricasoli sets the 2023 up by describing it as “crispy,” which translates as freshness but who could not think of Brolio ‘23 as juicy. Classic black cherry for this label of 600,000 bottles encompassing all five soil types, 250 hectares and everything that is collected, layered and transcribed as the Ricasoli estate. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted February 2025

Campione: Youthful, still a bit reductive in a sweet bell peppery way, herbal amaro yet to stretch and let the fruit speak first. Good fruit however, substantial and showing Gaiole’s abilities for 2023.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Riserva is truly the extension of Annata, from across the entirety of the Ricasoli estate and aged longer. Accedes to more concentration but still the Ricasoli style must be attended to; sharp, clean, drinkable and a provider of joy. This much is true and yes, the clarity is on display, so obvious in its openly generous and frank transparency. If there were rustic aspects 10 years ago they have long since left the building. It has been a matter of fine tuning, vintage after vintage. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Another ready to rock 2023 Annata and if any commune slash UGA is set up to deliver early it feels like Gaiole is the one. The naturally matured fruit and especially sweet acidity mixes with plush tannins that need not grip the wine but inserted allow for ease and drinkability. In fine form with a real neural swirl throughout. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Still in rapid pulse mode, agitative, unsettled and excited. High tones and fruit working from left to right, red to black, low to high. Croccante and crackling to the nth degree, rigid and vertical, structured as Annata can be but with a light, bright and transparent Burgundian like character. Remembering tasting this from barrel and not surprised to see this as the next stage result. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Federico Pini and Riccardo Bucciolini – Torcibrencoli

Greve

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Indelible stamp of the house, estate style present, accounted for and oft repeated, again as here, in perpetuity. For 2023 there is a deeper well of sweet fruit that hides the macchia and so a less savoury Carpineto is the result. Quite fine and openly generous this early to allow access ahead of most contemporaries Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

Consistently a matter of dark fruit, dusty qualities and Balsamico swirled into reductive syrup. Maximum ripeness from 2021 while località and winemaking style make sure to remind of every vintage that came before. There is no mistaking a Carpineto wine, exaggerated in Riserva and doubly so as Gran Selezione. Without any shadow of a doubt. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

The dusty song reminds of the same and in such a Carpineto way, from Annata to Riserva and straight through to Gran Selezione. Also from vintage to vintage and expect the top from 2021. That it delivers in terms of fruit if just some overripeness and yet still the acidity, Balsamico and as a combinative result, also here Amaro. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Rich and unctuous 2023 from the Dudda Valley, still quite tight, yet layered and fibrous. A fabric of place quilted into a tapestry of fruit and acidity with tannins at the edges to roll up and lock it all in. Should unravel, reveal its textures and brighten with time. Will be welcomed. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2023, Greve

One of the earlier released and drinking sangiovese is this from Greve in all its accessible and amenable glory. Classically styled with red fruit that speaks to what so many know and understand as Chianti Classico. Crisp and ultra fruity, like a bite out of a perfectly ripened piece of stone fruit, juices dripping with natural sweetness in overload. So well judged and made. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2022, Greve

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Wildly aromatic Annata from Jurji Fiore’s Greve UGA (hill of) Ruffoli Annata for Chianti Classico individuality. Fruit is on the darker side of the hill’s spectrum to speak for 2022 and not only ripneness, but how things ended up to be. Complex and structured, vertical, mineral and zested by dark citrus, inclusive of the imagined feeling of juiced pomegranate. So well made, unforced, non-plussed and yet to reach its peak. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Now here is a 2022 that shows us the greatness of the finest agricultural work, followed by studious attention in the cellar. Adds up to am Annata that truly abides by what the last 10 years have all been about. There is a balance and flow to this 100 percent Ruffoli sangiovese that some ‘22s struggle to find. Fruit first and foremost but then this proper mix of acidity and tannin, neither demanding more than the other and both supportive. So well managed and executed Annata, nearly ready to drink. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

First vintage of the “regular,” non single vineyard Chianti Classico was 2009. An Annata conceived from vines between 250 and 350m at the base of Greve’s Ruffoli hill. A perfectly correct Classico, dark of fruit, easy to enjoy, fine though never tart, acidity spot on and smooth. Clean as there could be and a clarity that speaks to style, precise winemaking and place. Made with 95 percent sangiovese with (5) canaiolo. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2020, Greve

The single vineyard Classico from the oldest vineyard of 40 years where Alberese and Pietraforte predominate the soils. Not made in every vintage because, well quality and passion matter dearly to brothers Leonardo and Alessandro. You can clearly see the choices passed down from father Emilio and the stubbornness to only make quality wines with the season dictating the choices. Made in ’20, skipped in ’21 (though Riserva was made) and aged for six months in 15hL Botti after fermentation in stainless, followed by one year in cement vats. Il Paccio the name is just what every generation called this vineyard and place but no one really knows why it is called this. Such a proper Classico and representation of the designation “cru” because there is something so specific and distinct about this sangiovese (with eight percent canaiolo) in its sapid style. Ready to drink though you can see this aging five more years without any real change and certainly zero decline. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2022, Greve

Le Tre Vigne, two in Greve and the third in Montefioralle, three individualistic places, three separate geological entities drawn upon, gathered and collected for great Annata complexity. A liquid chalky, openly assuming and stand up to be noticed three vineyard set that struts but does not sit down, or still. Exercise some patience to allow it all to come together. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Torcibrencoli Chianti Classico DOCG Maria Giaconda 2020, Greve

The boys of Torcibrencoli have not only found something special for Gran Selezione but also the kind of sangiovese in Annata that takes their work to another level. Dark fruit of depth and breadth for this northerly Greve location and a saline undercurrent to cut through the drupe. Amazing work from young winemakers feeling their way through this appellative world.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Still a sample because it won’t released until next year but it is a finished wine. A vintage of quality though not completely there in terms of quantity. Unfortunately the next three years will be even smaller but things will turn around in 2024. Les flesh as compared to 2019 but the linear quality seems highly appropriate and the backbone will serve this wine well. Some austerity in the tannins to resolve but they are part of the trenchant plan. A masala of spice defines the finish. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted October 2024

Lamole

Castellaccio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

In the hands of young Davide Bottai after the work from Lorenzo Bottai and Federico Lozzi. A light, bright, nearly ethereal Chianti Classico now with vines growing up at the highest part of Lamole above 700m with Monte San Michele looming overhead. This is impressive sangiovese from Lamole deserving of attention. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Lamole

Campione: There are Classico and then there are Lamole Classico which this emphasizes with a capital “L” as a cool, savoury and airy sangiovese. With a few percentage points each of endemic varieties canaiolo and malvasia which do effect an alteration with their ability to inject complexity into sangiovese. There is liquorice and Amaro, herbal pesto and a liquid chalky underbelly that speaks in the clearest of sandstone soil voices. Proper and reflective of 2023.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

So much more modernity from 2021 in the Cinuzzi label for this faction of the Castelinuzza Lamole cartel with more glycerin and softness on the mid-palate than seemingly ever before. Can’t previously recall this much ripeness and in this style yet here we are with a sweetly generous and warming 2021. Get at it. Drink 2025-2026.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

Susanna Grassi’s 2021 continues to be the vintage of record and the extra year in bottle has done wonders to see her sangiovese (with 10 percent canaiolo) come through its period of transition. Aromas have concentrated, flavours conjoin with fleshiness and the wine now fully justifies the nomenclature. Terra di Lamole, master of its own terroir, terraces peeking upwards from 550m to 600-plus for a destiny above. Red fruit intensity elevated by the quintessential Lamole perfume forever and always. Terra di realtà, Lamole di cuore. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Lamole

Full sangiovese for I Fabbri, high acidity working alongside Lamole perfume with a feeling of wood because of the vintage. Quite a bit of earth on the nose in 2020, spice cupboard and liquorice. Unique for a Susanna Grassi sangiovese and nothing soft or light about it. So curious! Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Lamole

Like Riserva there is a wealth of fruit in I Fabbri’s Gran Selezione but this time the Lamole minerals strike first and fast. They take aim to inject an elemental jangling into fruit and coupled with the local perfume there is this wild at heart feeling about the wine. Major happenings in 2020 GS, complexities found throughout, bound up in the book of Lamole and with length from Greve to Casole and back. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Montefioralle

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Worthy exercise to taste 2022 next to the settled 2021 because you see how much bolder this next vintage really is. Silky sangiovese impurezza as it is said, warm and sun-ripened at elevation with a look to the Chianti Mountains due east. A syrup of fruit and acidity swirled and seductive, acids purely Montefioralle and a balance discovered throughout. Deeper and darker fruit, sinking into brooding and a sangiovese that will need time to shed it’s weight and rise up again. The acidity will see to that rising and when the weather warms in 2027 this Verrazzano will begin to drink as it should. Fine Annata and one that resembles the Gran Selezione, albeit as parts of the appellative whole. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted twice, at the winery and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2021, Montefioralle

One of three Capponi Gran Selezione and in 2021 this just has to be the succulent one with the most up front mastery. Easy to understand, full and persuasive, flowing, languid and long. Bastignano is the sangiovese that takes it all in stride, of verse flowing into refrain, a composition never delivering a moment of gratuity. There without forcing anything, balanced as they come, earlier drinking than the other grippier Selezione. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2021, Montefioralle

Contessa Luisa, closer in style to Bastignano then to Fornace with more glycerol and silken texture. Also a metal-mineral cloud burst through, like ink in slow motion, injected into water. Fruit feels purple or nearly so and here again the 2021 vintage is full of fruit so ripe and expressive. Memories of discussing the April frost and the state of Chianti Classico with Sebastiano Capponi flood back with a taste of Contessa Luisa. Such a fine Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2021, Montefioralle

The grandest statement of the three Capponi Gran Selezione is made by La Fornace, of the vineyard nicknamed “the furnace,” a place where solar radiation, especially in a vintage like this brings all the fruit out to play. More tension than the others, a greater demand made on our palates and a sapidity unlike the rest. Serious Selezione, perhaps less finessed and one to savour for years, but not quite yet. Drink 2028-2034.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection

With Neri Capponi

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2023, Montefioralle

A rare reductive 2023 though nothing serious, however there is a candied shell in surround of cherry/red candy apple fruit. Wood imparts vanilla and it’s hard not to feel a sense of syrupy style. A bit cloying while admittedly flavourful. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the rich and famous sangiovese to lead the Montefioralle charge with dark fruit for 2022 and more character than in many of its neighbouring UGAs. A liqueur of fruit and acidity in great swirl for Chianti Classico unction. Namely sangiovese with (five percent each) canaiolo and colorino, full and substantial, tannic primarily at the finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the full and substantial fruit-filled ’23 from Viticcio, an estate on a Montefioralle roll. Still taut and chalky but there is great promise from this set of presented probabilities. A relished effort that will lead to a just reward. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Prunaio 2019, Montefioralle

Prunaio is beginning to resolve, to see a next level of integration and a drinkability not too far away. Fruit is persistently fresh, acids sweet and fattening, structural parts in play though without any austerity or great tannin. There is some mind you, but in good control and working well alongside the pleasurable parts of this Gran Selezione. Fine work here in 2019 from Vitticio. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Shenanigans at Enoteca Baldi, Panzano

Panzano

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

For 2022 this represents perfectly fit and proper sangiovese with balance accorded and afforded all the way through. A wine of Panzano riches but also tannic austerity connected by the acidity made available and captured to strengthen the overall bond. A Cafaggio vintage that impresses with its mix of fortitude and charm. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2022, Panzano

Grippy and glycerin sangiovese from 2022, a reflection of Panzano through more recent times, here magnified out of Ca’ di Pesa’s corner. An exaggeration of warm vintage riches confiscated and expressed in this near simple Galestro syrup sangiovese. Wood is still an early factor and needs to dissolve into the fabric of this wine. Give it more time. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Consistent with the warmth and specificity of red fruit from 2022 that just keeps on keeping on. It’s uncanny how many Annata of the vintage are juiced from the same sangiovese vine, expressed as citrus in the most ripe and pith spiced way. Not a bitterness per se and nothing like black cherry but there’s something so distinct and unprecedented about the sangiovese, at least not as a profile that has come around in the last ten years. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

One of the only Chianti Classico using cabernet franc (at 10 percent) to spice up sangiovese. This is Rignana’s use of the Loire (but in Tuscany) more so Bordeaux-styled grape variety for great sense and full expression. Brings another kind of verdancy and spiciness to Riserva and also to Panzano. More than curious, always sumptuous and for 2021 resulting in a great combination.  Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2022, Panzano

Like Dino (in amphora) the aging time in wood for Pastrolo is shorter and so this 2022 put to bottle in June of 2024. From the Lamole (UGA) vineyard pruned in a variation of alberello or goblet training style but the vines run higher due to Pastrolo’s steep terraces. The soils are unique, marine in origin and called marna di macigno, in other words a Galestro type of cracked or flaky manifestation, but in this case from sandstone. The grace and harmony of ’22 Pastrolo is soothing with a delicasse that no other Gran Selezione will ever show. It’s remarkable from this more than warm vintage and the 14.5 percent alcohol is barely perceived. This will wake you up, especially if you are tasting in the first part of the morning. Thank you Pastrolo. I needed that. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2022, Panzano

A finished wine because today is bottling day and what serendipity to taste it on the day. Vigna Del Sorbo is one of the vineyards that escaped the August 16th hail because it’s on the other side of the (Conca d’Oro) valley. Full quantity as a result, approximately one-third matured in new wood, the second year spent in older cask. Freshness captured and as always Vigna del Sorbo is the spiciest of the Gran Selezione but also the one of the three with the finest, if grainiest tannic profile. This after an aromatic wave of floral and mineral before giving way to a sangiovese that integrates with impunity. You’ve got to figure that the age of the vines are responsible for handling the heat of 2022. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Leolino 2022, Panzano

Just being bottled as we speak and the quietest opening pronouncement as compared to Pastrolo (Lamole) and Vigna del Sorbo (Panzano – Conca d’Oro). This from the terraces below and in surround of the Pieve up on the hill where Alberese soil predomimates, unique to Fontodi because schisty clay (with Galestro), Pietraforte (calacreous sandstone conglomerate) and Marna di Macigno (marine sandstone) define the other wines. The Alberese limestone makes for a crispier and more croccante sangiovese, magnified in 2022 and while this is also quite tannic the catalyst to exaggeration is made by the highest acidity of the three. Vinoso but even more succulenza, a very specific character that is San Leolino. In fact this Gran Selezione will take longer to come together, but again the vintage dictates and solicits this response. Drink 2028-2037.  Tasted February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Pietraforte conglomerate sandstone in full relatable regale suggests a most mineral Riserva from Gagliole for 2021. A Riserva of its own accord, owing less of a connection than some to the estate’s Annata or to Gran Selezione. Mainly because the former works with Castellina fruit and the latter is more block specific. Riserva from Panzano comes replete with exciting acidity and a blues note that bend…and hangs. Fruit in the middle with great confidence and tannins on the periphery. As good as it gets.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Panzano

Tasted as a Campione (sample) just five days ago and now the finished blend just bottled is in remarkably ready condition. As far as 2023 is concerned the combination of freshness and structure are about as connected as it gets. A Pietraforte meets Galestro mineral juiciness that bleeds terroir, Panzano and the purity of sangiovese. No reduction, nor volatility neither. An Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico cleans up really, really well. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, Balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level.  Last tasted February 2024 and at the Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just sangiovese from the Panzano perch where Pietraforte runs through the ridge and only these sangiovese reek and taste of this particular mineral-rich sangiovese blood. As here with one that takes this thought to a high level from the vintage. Still quite a bit of structure here.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Geology of Panzano

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

A vintage predicated sangiovese as much as any and evev more so one that speaks to Panzano’s reaction to the season. There is a tendency to extract just a bit too much but Le Cinciole hits the proverbial nail on the head. The capture is precise, restrained and the wine acts undeterred. This to say it shows balance and potential, especially for Annata. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Aluigi Campo Ai Peri 2020, Panzano

Panzano expression incarnate, red fruit ripe and silken without glycerol gratuity and flirting with untethered gravity. A richness while also barrel work lending a creamy mouthfeel that still needs to soften further, integrate the associated spice and see this become a Gran Selezione of parts develop into the whole. Just some austerity in the structure stands in the way. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Juicy and forthright 2022 as much as any in Panzano and perhaps the 10 percent (9 + 1) merlot and cabernet sauvignon are to thank for the softening of this wine. Without their additions this might be one serious and tough nut to track. As it stands there is great structure involved and the expert blending has led this ’22 in a very proper direction. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Le Fonti’s is a 100 percent sangiovese from east facing Panzano vineyards with all the morning sun captured for Gran Selezione of truly effusive character. Tannins are a bit in charge however and there needs to be a reckoning sometime soon. A wealth of flavour, touch of mocha and so much more. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2022, Panzano

The unmistakable touch and feel of a Monte Bernardi sangiovese here from 2022, up in the air where rare and vacuous receive the fruit of a most passionate and discerning labour. Sangio’ is Annata born in the fields and nowhere but, cumulate of proper but also determined decisions to make full use of every grape available. Once in the cantina it fends for itself because it is equipped to do so and yes this is the most natural of wines in the way you would ask for it to be. Acids are elastic but will become even more so as the sangiovese stretches, fleshes and finishes its giretto.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025.

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted again, February 2024.

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle.  Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

Purity and natural beauty for this Panzano Riserva. Something primary about it to be sure but c’mon it’s 2022 and the wine has barely touched the sky. Down to earth yes but bright and of a purple fruit exclusive to this estate and label. Monte Bernardi’s tastes like none else, in a class of its own and a sangiovese (with five percent colorino) such as this will change your mind about how to grow, ferment and bottle Chianti Classico. Just those three tenets of the process. Especially when they are as clean and pure as this. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

High quality fruit, ripe and luxe, expressive as any and thankful we all are for the wait. A 2021 kept a year (and in many cases two) longer than much of the rest, well executed in composition and all this in light of just a bit too much wood still on top. Nevertheless this will resolve and a very good Annata will impress with its wealth of fruit and complex character. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Another beautiful season, not at the beginning because of the April 7th frost which delayed development by a month – though in the end the wines showed with great balance. In part because of less bunches and bunch weight per plant but also because of a great September rain that followed a hot summer for the latest finish to harvest in recent times – September 25th. Everything in this wine moves in unison, all parts working together for a polished and luxe example of Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Radda

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2022, Radda

You can feel the warmth and lack of precipitation from the vintage, not quite 2017 aridity but the Macchia and Selvatica are surely present in every aspect of the wine. A mix of brushy and rosemary character, dried herbs and still the Raddese acidity keeps the fruit buoyed and alive. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2021, Radda

Just the second Chianti Classico Riserva turned out under the new ownership at Terrabianca and quite the refined example here from 2021. There is beauty and restraint, far, far less wood than in the past and a transparency that keeps things open, lithe and airy. Though the acidity is high in zest and piquancy there is a softness about how it presents on the palate. It results in a wine ready to drink but there is no hurry because it will stay focused like this for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2020, Radda

Some Gran Selezione 2022s are hitting the market and 2021 is the current main stage for the appellation but still there are estates staying focused on 2020. Like the new team at Arilla that must have watched this wine like a hawk over its aging tenure. Finally arrived and settled it has, not into maturity per se but ready to open and be consumed. Loving the captured acidity, so distinctly Raddese though not from the UGA’s upper reaches. A structural composition unto itself. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

More fruit and developed substance than the average and also compared to recent Brancaia Annata. The 100 percent sangiovese child of a long, slow, gentle and cumulative maceration to result in the most modern and seductive Chianti Classico. A pour of Brancaia’s 2023 Annata will be the one to convince world markets just how far the territory has come in the last 10 years. Definitive for the current state of the Gallo Nero. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection,  February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

The most exotically perfumed Riserva in the territory, at least from 2022, with the scents of lemongrass, fenugreek and in the oddest way the aromatics that create a Thai Curry. Unusual? Yes. Seductive? Absolutely. Feels like a percentage of American wood and 20 percent merlot are the answers to the questions and still the seduction is real. If you like Rioja Riserva this will be right up your alley and if you can appreciate the different than you should also be pleased. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Bright and beaming, bursting with Raddese frescezza for a 2021 Annata now knocking on the door of success mode after nearly the right amount of extra time in bottle. Still quite crunchy, sure as Caparsa herbal and tannins not quite yet justified. Plenty of reserve in the tank for an Annata yet to fully reach its peak. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Youthful early release of Albola’s Annata, still tight and yet focused, crisp, crunchy and as they say, croccante. Crushable but not quite yet because the rocks have yet to pulverize and melt into the fabric of this 100 percent sangiovese. Truly Radda considering the quantity and worthy of you $20 bill. Drink 2026–2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection,  February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

A ripe and dark fruit organized Riserva with high skin to pulp feeling in the musky perfume and husky flavours filling the mouth. Plenty of texture and tannin involved in the make-up and positioning with wood a factor and age ability the promise. Solid construct in a fine if recognizable Riserva contract. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2021, Radda

Much darker, compressed and more seriously compacted of substantial fruit defining Badiòla’s Radda character as compared to the less distinct Castellina label. Here a Gran Selezione from a terrific concave vineyard next to the 11th century church with a view to die for. Richesse and sweet acidity, a note of forest Balsamico and full palate fills without pause. Top drop for the family Mazzei. Drink 2027-2035.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Distinct and recognizable for this south-central westerly part of Radda with an herbaceous edge to the scintillant of red fruit. Charged and semi-electric, black cherry stone bitterness to the fruit’s back side and the presence of quality tannins made edgy by bits of green. Drink 2026-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: Quite a youthful mouthful of fruit and tannin from Volpaia’s serious 2023, long macerated and viscous with time so necessary to settle it all down. Even the 10 percent merlot does little to soften the Raddese intensity at a time when the wine is yet to be put to bottle. Poetry of crunch and chew, botanicals and tonic, things all needing time. Drink 2027-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

Truth for 2022 is Riserva as only Volpaia can gift, that is to say with restraint and respect for vintage. Perfumed yet never gratuitously so and the barrel work is done with a slightly heavier hand than in recent years past. Effects balance for a 100 percent sangiovese that feels cool, gelid, mineral and elastic. The wood does well to integrate the parts for Riserva without airs with thanks to its micro-oxygenating effects. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2021, Radda

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always di Volpaia. Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040.  Tasted February 2025

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Fine fruit-centric Annata from southeast Radda’s Monterinaldi with a gentle easing in and glide on through. Plum and orange citrus work the room to keep the energy up. Bigger than 2019, on par with 2020 and consistently extended from 2021. That’s the way you do it and like it. Uh-huh, uh-huh. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Clean and bright, a 2020 Raddese acidity sharp and focused, so very different and as a whole in the vintage this sangiovese is day for night unlike the wines of nearby Panzano. As effusive and lithe as they come though wood is detected and not quite consumed. Still the light touch is noted and appreciated.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

For Monterinaldi Riserva resides between Classico and Classico Vigneto Boscone and picking happens between the two, though Boscone is an entity all on its own. This fruit usually comes from middle elevation. Riserva sees Botti and it’s just so obvious because there is more texture and compaction, not necessarily concentration but certainly tight grained layering because of the use of wood. So curious that even with wood this feels less barrel affected than most so Riserva. Monterinaldi’s is still a fresh and sapid sangioivese. Crunchiest Riserva in the territory, bar none. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

A much more mature, fruit fulfilling and also barrel-affected sangiovese from Radda’s Monterinaldi for 2020. The wood speaks boldly yet within reason and under the bar. As with Riserva the requiem of time will aid but also abet the highest quality fruit wishing to be chaperoned through. The feels here are high and airy, acidity remains in charge yet also requiring some settling. The 2020 represents an early ideological approach for the category and might be viewed as a youthful work in progress. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Knowably visible vivid seasonal style presented in the way of 2022, that is to say of dark fruit in a citrus vein, tart and intense but also a lactic quality involved. A different vintage, certainly warm but also one with a singular profile. Not a dried brushy or herbal one but something different, unique and without any obvious precedent. Unlike all previous vintages from this house. Still this from Radda is, well Raddese. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Angela Fronti at Enoteca de Giusti, Firenze

Istine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

Now labeled Gran Selezione. Here the Radda vineyard for Istine delivers all the Alberese and more in one of the more salty sangiovese you will ever taste. Like squeezing the limestone rocks for the juice to run into the grapes. The entirety of the wine tastes, notes and feels this way, It’s truly uncanny, lending definition to Gran Selezione as lithe and transparent as any Bourgogne. Vigna Istine need not be powerful and brawny – it’s musculature comes from finesse, determination and core strength.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: In the ways of L’Erta di Radda you will note the sapid streak through saline waters but more than ever there is the most naturally sweet and pulpy fruit swelling in mouthfeel for what has to be Diego Finnochi’s finest hour. The potential on 2023 Annata is as strong a guarantee as any of the vintage and in his tenure. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

The Perenospera (resulting in downy mildew) vintage but Piero Lanza only lost 10 percent of his production. Yes – he fared much better than many in the region. He remembers the 24th of June, at the time of the festival of San Giovanni in Florence. “I woke up on the 24th, a foggy morning, I went in the vineyard and everything was white. We sprayed and managed it.” The 2023 is only sangiovese, of 15 different clones and vineyards, a sweetly herbal example, oh so glycerin textured, holding more Bugialla (Riserva) fruit because none was made in 2023. Freshness from concrete aging mixes with wood spice for an easy drinking, balanced and well made Classico. Just recently bottled in December 2024. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: A barrel sample and the question is whether or not this should have been pulled for assessment. Does the choice help or hinder the estate? The open fragrance and specific Radda località perfume in this case answers the question with an emphatic yes, though it still depends on the finish of the wine. Again there is generosity and length, an extension of ripeness in all aspects of the cuvée and so again, yes. The issue is awkwardness and a middle palate section that feels gangly but all living things grow up and mature, as will TdC’s 2023.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Val delle Corti, Raddese to the core, still unknown to many but those who know are keenly aware of the fineness in these Chianti Classico. Roberto Bianchi’s 2022 is not as sleek and silken as some long macerated wines he has made before and it’s also quite tannic for Val delle Corti. In that sense I think newcomers to his work will see this as more classically Chianti Classico sangiovese and so a new breed of consumer will join the parade. Line up people – this should also not be missed. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Full wealth of macerated sangiovese, nothing but the gold from old vineyards planted 50-plus years ago in high elevation and steep-sloped Radda. As textured in its silken robes as ever and also any, acids in line, fineness from entry to exit. Here the confluence of elevation, a vintage’s climate happenstance, worked to be cut from a new cloth and to the future coincide. No accident but a fully executed plan from a producer who gets it. Drink 2027-2036.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Casciano

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Villa Antinori label for Chianti Classico Riserva is far less consistent, or rather its consistency is not as refined as the Marchese label. More of a forced nature which is to say winemaking and styling take precedence over seasoning and complexity because of altre varietà complementari that round out the sangiovese. More palate paste, red crayon, liquorice and balm in this wine. Especially because of the vintage. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marchese Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Consistency thy name is Chianti Classico Riserva, Antinori – Marchese Antinori. Close you eyes and imagine 2020, 2019, 2018 and now 2022. The repetition and same level of quality persists and educates about the power, the ability to refine, rinse and repeat. Liquid red gold, gemstone sangiovese with the mysterious addendum defined as altre varietà complementari. Could there be merlot and/or cabernet sauvignon? Likely. Endemic varieties as in colorino, canaiolo and malvasia? Probably. All adds up to the naturally sweet, accumulation of fruit, acid and tannin, come together at the hands of a top notch winemaking team. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2022, San Casciano

The Gran Selezione of 2022 are at the top of the perfume heap, exotically charged and seriously effusive. Case in point Badia a Passignano with its waves of tropical spice mixed with Amaro botanicals. Chewy mouthful of spicy fruit, liquorice and a touch of tar. Liquid chalky, structured for aging and looking ahead for truffles. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2023, San Casciano

Young and brawny, tannic beyond the pale because truth be told this ’23 still feels to be in a Campione setting. As such the volatile elements, syrupy fruit, reduction and intensity are a bit over the top. Judgment of assessment must be stayed to allow for this wine to become more “finished” than it is in the current state.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avvenne 2020, San Casciano

“Kiss me,“ a play on words for the three men who own the winery, including Le Chiuse and Castello di Meleto oenologist Valentino Ciarla and a vineyard he purchased in San Casciano during Covid. Avvenne loosely translates as “please let me have some more of something, but in one word” and truthfully that is how you will feel after a glass of this wine. It’s is a sangiovese with some canaiolo of very old vines, truly San Casciano with a feeling of the local “macchia” and a natural wild quality, of great temper matched by restraint. The wine rolls and oscillates in waves, acts juicy, very aromatic, light, at times dusty and yet the texture is flowing. Never sharp and just the right balance from a super tiny production. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted at Le Chiuse in Montalcino, February 2025

With Stefano Marinari and Federico Pini

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Primary, exciting and confounding in its profundity. A mouth full of sangiovese (plus 10 percent) canaiolo as if bled direct from the crush and run-off of San Casciano river stones. The aromatics are twisted and entangled, nearly strangled yet the palate expresses with intense platitudes. Oxymorons and misunderstandings commit to seeing a Chianti Classico of greatness when the wine will be bottled, settled and set free.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Now in the third vintage for Calcamura the aging is only in tonneaux, two Slavonian and one French. Only sangiovese from a vineyard in the middle of nowhere but a località called Poggio ai Grilli. Could that be the name of a coming Gran Selezione for Stefano and Andreita? The Annata will be a grand total of 430 bottles that spent a year in Slavonian tonneaux and one in ceramic Tava terracotta. A light touch for a San Casciano sangiovese for which acidity is tempered with 10 percent canaiolo to affect a sangiovese between salinity and sapidity. A wine made by experienced hands not trying to coax too much from the rockiest river stone soils available to anyone in the whole of Chianti Classico. Never ambitious, always respectful and a feeling gained from out of the receded waters (so to speak) to make Annata as pinot noir Burgundian, nebbiolo Piedmontesino or nerello mascalese Etnean as any in the entirety of the territory. A more precise and verging on profound Chianti Classico with that terrific combination of drinkability and structure. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted twice, at Borgo Machiavelli and The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Truly primary and still quite a reductive element in charge of the wine. As with other 2023 samples there is not enough in the aromas to really set the tone but the palate delivers a luxe wealth of fruit and texture. Acids are running high, mighty and amok while the overall structure seems poised to see this Annata get set for a long and fruitful run.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Beautifully perfumed Riserva from Capaccioli in 2022 with experienced fruit from an old vineyard knowing just what to do. Exotically charged with aromatics by seed and tuber, star anise to galangal for a south by south east Asian spice bouquet. The ripenesses are necessary to keep up and all three do their part, if also the bidding to secure longevity. That will be the case for Riserva that should drink dutifully for up to 10 years time. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelli Del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Lactic and confected, liquid chalky and tart. Hard in the end. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Rich, full and creamy, acidity sweet and supportive while tannins don’t seem so interested in causing a stir. A no fuss nor muss Riserva that fills the mouth and the heart. The five percent merlot feels significant, bringing another element of softness to a sangiovese eager to please. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2021, San Casciano

High and mighty, bright and airy, marked by macchia and a bit of reduction. Herbaceous for sangiovese like Loire cabernet franc and so curious this way. Crunchy and really quite fun withs sneaky structure for a really good Bellezza – different but good. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico 2023, San Casciano

The brightest star shines from San Casciano with this ray of carbonic light, admittedly with a touch of Brettanomyces but one that hides in the layers, nooks and crannies of the wine. A 2023 and oh, so very young which says the wine will be cleaned and clean itself up given enough time. This is the natural world in sangiovese and Chianti Classico so be neither surprised nor alarmed because the risk-reward is palpable and should you accept the terms the price is worth the pay. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2022, San Casciano

Riserva exists in a similar vein as Annata though it is chosen form the identified block known as Vigneto Branca. Let’s face it, the approach, the precocious idealism and the intention are the same. This sangiovese needs time, to settle and flesh so that the nervous notes fall into line. The natural world again approached and infiltrated is something many love to join and be a part of the unbridled fun. Still others are troubled by the naked aggression and willingness to let wines be wines. This is that, non-plussed nor deterred and unencumbered by the constraints of faculty and pedagogical education. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Guicciardini Belvedere Campòli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Work in progress which means vineyards recently updated en route to becoming vines that will produce higher quality sangiovese. Also agriculture and winemaking assimilating the movement to prepare for Chianti Classico of a much improved, inching up to higher order. This is a next step but still one of the first for an estate on the precipice to deserving much greater attention.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Solo sangiovese from “a normal vintage,” fruit from young vines not yet come into their own, aged for one year in large 25 hL French cask. Grapes are harvested at Belvedere Campòli, delivered to be processed and vinified at Castello di Poppiano and coming soon is a cellar project to the Chianti Classico property. Quite pure and yet savoury with the finest grainy structure laying below the pulpy red fruit. Missing a point of acidity to say that ripeness comes first. A factor of vintage and therefore necessity.  Drink 2024-2026. Tasted October 2024

Belvedere Campóli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Belvedere Campóli’s ownership is Guicciardini of Castello di Poppiano – Chianti Colli Fiorentini and Massi di Mandorlaia – Maremma – Morello di Scanzano. Francesco Guicciardini was an Italian historian and statesman, a contemporary and critic of Niccolò Machiavelli and considered one of the major political writers of the Italian Renaissance. The Belvedere Campóli estate dates to 1915, was abandoned after the end of the mezzadrie system and purchased by Italian historian and mathematician Niccolò Guicciardini and family in 2015. They have been restoring and replanting vineyards since 2020. From the single vineyard called Tabernocolo, set just below the large forest above and indicative of the chapel on the estate. Identifying the vineyard as the one to define Chianti Classico as Gran Selezione was paramount while the aromas and palate notes remain so perfectly consistent with both the Classico and Riserva. Steps up the concentration, the mineral and elemental aspects drawn from the Pietraforte and the cool, almost minty savour in the flavours. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Open, fragrant, savoury and of a lovely oxidative style from 2023 that brings this sangiovese to a welcome and ready place, even before it might have needed be. But it and we are happy to have it drink with such ease because sometimes Annata must be a defender against tannin and time. The 10 percent merlot demos well to soften the blows and arrows of sangiovese’s San Casciano seriousness, with thanks and praises. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

High quality fruit from La Sala’s San Casciano vines for 2022 with a mix of warmth and a cool factor that cuts comfortably through. Some imaginative red crayon and liquorice notions put this in a bit off a rigid place to say that time is the requiem for the wine to flesh into the juicy sangiovese it wants to be. Loads of potential here. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink.  Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new brand “Il Contadino Cusano” takes flight in 2021 with Riserva (and no Annata produced) because of frost-related reduced yields. An exaggeration of the local Torselli Balsamico and also really tightly wound acidity matched with equal force by grippy tannins. This is a different wine than the Torselli Riserva of the past, now with greater vibrancy and energy. At this stage the wines are made by Alessandro Campatelli with consultancy assistance by Carlo Ferrini. Something special begins and brews with ’21. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Villa Le Corti  – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Not atypical for 2023 with blood orange juiced sangiovese of a high and mighty if also glycerol order and the intensity of savoury-herbal-higher acid (for San Casciano) tang. Fulsome and layered by all these aspects still unsettled and needing time. There is nothing ordinary happening here, in fact this is the sort of Chianti Classico that will wake you up should you fall into a slumber. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2021, San Casciano

Don Tommaso is Gran Selezione of the ripest order, satiny and elastic, metallic and sapid. A river stone vineyard reasoning, fullness of darkening tart acidity and serious tannins from 2021. Minty cool, Amaro herbal and again serious. Drink 2027-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Hello Riserva 2021 from Casa Emma’s important Alberese stone-strewn Vignalparco that delivers the fortune of fruit and structure to a dark red-black sangiovese moving right of centre with all its accumulated glory. All the blood orange and serum right there on display and for the taking, unfettered and ready for action. Big Riserva with a soft heart, generous, open and free. Consistency in Riserva thy name is Vignalparco. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Though extremely youthful you can do nothing but imagine the rocky soils of Casa Emma from this excitable 2021. Lighter in hue, brighter and transparent by comparison to Riserva Vignalparco – which leads to the determining element and factor for calling this a Gran Selezione a most elegant wine. So stony mineral from the quantifiable Alberese found in these San Donato in Poggio hills. Drink 2027-2033.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feeling another level of concentration from Annata which tells us two things: First is that Monsanto escaped the challenges of 2023 unscathed and second that the quality of their generous quantity of fruit was exceptional. Though this is but a sample and way too early to really capitulate there is no doubt just how blood orange citrus mixed into red fruit San Donato in Poggio this sangiovese truly is. The five percent canaiolo adds some drops of tonic while the colorino brings it all forward in technicolour.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another Riserva of a unique set of circumstances, so floral and gauged by the stoniness of soils. Rich and unctuous, high acidity in place, fruit set up for success and tannins clearly lining the floor below. Beauty incarnate, the proviso of sangiovese perfumes returning again and again, sip after sip, promising and providinf all that we ask for. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

No shocker to find this San Donato in Poggio 2021 in a state of freshness, openness and availability without impediments, obstacles or borders. Just the fruit and a sweetness of acidity to match its ripeness stride for stride. Delicious as they say and ready to roll.  Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Indelible stamp of Montecchio and incredible substance of fruit, darkening in the way of black cherry with nary a moment of bitterness. Adds much glycerol and unction into that fruit as much as ever from this estate. Taut acidity and fine lines with backbone as structure does its work to provide the basis for longevity. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Wow! Something so different for 2022, of dark fruit but like something out of Chambolle, silken and so bloody complex you wonder where to turn. First you must sidestep the sweet and tender volatility and once that happens there are fruit and mineral notes clashing, mingling, singing and smiling. Dio mio, man this Le Masse is a mouthful to consider. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Martina and Alberto Fabbri – Il Poggiolino

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato in Poggio

The vineyards at Il Poggiolino may reside at moderate elevations between 250 and 350m but there are no south by southwest expositions and so in a hot vintage like 2022 the freshness remains a guarantee. Just three percent colorino goes a long way to raise up character of a Classico that only sees concrete and stainless steel for aging. Sweet acids match the fruit stride for stride and what you want is what you get – A level of drinkability that represents Classico and this northwest corner of San Donato in Poggio. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato in Poggio

A terrific vintage and yes many estates in Chianti Classico lost production to the April frost but at Il Poggiolino the maximum loss was 10 percent. And so come for the quantity and stay for the quality. Rich and concentrated, lightly chalky with a clay and stony feeling. Structure asks that we wait a year before opening the window and set this sangiovese with three percent colorino for aging through to the end of the decade. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2021, San Donato in Poggio

From a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery which may have been a expositional detriment 20 years ago but no longer. The change of climate puts this steep single vineyard sangiovese in great light today and so welcome to the third in a row of vintages that may just shock as to its character and quality. Le Balze 20 years ago was organized as large terraces and in Tuscany you say “le balze,” when you take a giant leap. This Gran Selezione has improved and grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years to join other greats to reside near the top of the appellative pyramid.  Last tasted February 2025

Another perfumed and expressive Le Balze comes with as much if not more pulp and flesh a la mode than those San Donato in Poggio Gran Selezione that have come before. The depeche florals are Spring bloom fresh, the volume set at ideal pitch and you just need to keep putting glass to nose because, well you just can’t get enough. Richness is never compromised but it is belied by the beauty of a tannic caress about as graceful and gracious as there are. This is Il Poggiolino’s finest GS to date and that is saying a lot. “Just like a rainbow.” Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted October 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Crunchy sangiovese from Isole e Olena and the first vintage of the new era, blended and finished by the next team of winemaking. The ten percent canaiolo serves this 2022 well, striking a sapid chord to infiltrate what feels like super salty sangiovese with a decidedly lime-elemental strike. Almost piecing but the toothsome quality keeps things moving swimmingly along. The blend shifts from its original form and yet the DNA will not be denied. Genetics are strong and many years will have to pass by before the memories are forgotten. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Intensity of aromas so high and mighty for 2022 but also the tang, acidity and fine grainy texture to speak for San Donato in Poggio. Few ’22 Annata are this intense and implosive with the most blood orange juicing of any in the area. Ten percent merlot or not, all the aspects of this wine are at the high end of the spectrum and time is the requiem to bring them back down to a place of comfort. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Corbezzolo 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Going back a few years to look at the inaugural Podere La Cappella Gran Selezione, a wine that joins the appellative fray for the first time out of a high quality vintage. The artist formerly labeled as IGT was last made in 2016 and here three years later it joins the Chianti Classico pyramid’s highest distinction. More barrel than the past and therefore spice, espresso and finally structure are really in. So much so you will still have to wait on the wine to integrate. First showing and the future will surely see to greater results. Drink 2027-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Heavy Chianti Classico at this earliest of stages and one wonders why it needed to be rushed to b bottle. Nothing open or nurturing about it, so primary and hard to access. Needs to be revisited several months if not at least eight to 12 from now.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Cinciano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Still tightly wound and somewhat reductive with a skin to pulp ratio resinous effect in place. Still much to wait for and to receive from what will surely be a giving and abiding Gran Selezione that acts out a distinguished and defined San Donato in Poggio sangiovese style. Comes from relatively low elevation vineyards at 250m of medium textured soils, Alberese based, stony with some low-lying clay. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2022, Vagliagli

The times it takes for a Chianti Classico estate to perfect a formula for turning sangiovese into beauty is long and those who figure this out make wines like these. Annata from estate vineyards treated and handled with the gentlest of touch, low and slow, collated through processes that identify the vintage, tempering and refining its challenges. Presenting La Ghirlanda which expresses its own balance involving fruit, texture and weight, making use of acidity to distract from tannin and find a wine that drinks proportionally from now through to the end of its tenure. To the next decade. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG I Colli 2020, Vagliagli

Riserva of experience and layering, a   of fruit and acidity intertwined, interchangeable and complimentary. One then the other taking turns at the wheel, got each others’ backs, defending from tannins coming forward sweet yet fierce. Full and substantial in most every regard but especially those parts that exemplify optimum ripeness. No lack for beauty and grace – never a doubt or question. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Mocenni 89 is a special Gran Selezione, open, ethereal and generous. And it is just now entering its window of beauty with new surprise at every turn.  Last tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Tighter Chianti Classico than many from 2022, acids wound around fruit and less of a softening from merlot plus colorino than in some vintages past. More dried herbal savoury than the Vagliagli norm, dimming of the brightness and not quite one cast into the great wide open. Brushy and Mediterranean like Vagliagli will be. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Vagliagli

Sweet perfume, a mix of fresh berries and Amaro, high in glycerin, quite concentrated and fully completely red, red wine. Juicy 2023, as seems to be the vintage case. Classic acidity and mild tannin make for early drinking. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2022, Vagliagli

Warmth of a vintage becomes and begets something different in Chianti Classico. The season is different than any of the last 10 and really just be looked at within the parameters of itself. There is this blood orange and red citrus feeling that can’t be shaken, incrementally different from one UGA to the next and yet consistently run through the entirety of the territory. Has there been another vintage so consistently perceived since 2014 or 2013? This wine speaks to that. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2022, Vagliagli

Big-boned Novocento from Dievole put of 2022, dark of fruit and very mineral. Shows the warmth of the season in its grip after a palate that can’t help but be full and satisfy. Truly mouth-filling, sapid, not particularly high in acidity and long. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2021, Vagliagli

Vigna Sessina leads with its structure without apology or hesitation, of a palate attack taking hold straight away. A whole mouth of crushed rocks, very much in the way of packed and tannic Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, warming and coating in mouthfeel. So full and substantial without a moment’s softening. Drink 2027-2034.  Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Good to go!

godello

At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

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