Twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024

‘Tis an exercise performed year after year, a word processor’s per annum distillation to say thank you and recognize game. To consistently act as messenger, be conscious of hard work filed and to celebrate that excellence. The first list was conceived more than 10 years ago, now peaking at its current number with twenty-four mind-blowing wines chosen for 2024. Travels to fluctuating destinations mean from year to year wine regions will carry different weight and the list abides by the variance. In 2023 Bordeaux played a significant role, as did South Africa and Washington in 2022, Bourgogne in 2019, and so on. The rules of engagement never change but evolution plays its part, priorities pivot and you never can say or tell what sorts of matters will strike deep into the heart.

Related – Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Godello needs to make a confession, shed some honesty, clear the air. He admits to a love for writing tasting notes and needing to do it, especially when a potentially mind-blowing wine is in the glass and what follows flows forth as a stream of consciousness, ending only when the creative tap closes naturally. When these notes are edited weeks or even months later there is the incredulous feeling of “how did this get written – where did these words come from?” They just did, from right out of the wellspring of creativity, but Godello does not know how he came to write those notes – as if they were magically written. Paragraphs woven from dots and thoughts for unsuspecting connections between writings and wine, such as “Ribelle è colui che si distingue.” Translated as, or better yet in reference to “the rebel is the one who recognizes the unjust law and breaks free from it,” from Ernst Jünger’s 1951 “The Rebel’s Treatise.” The German philosopher, essayist and WWII captain was once called die Burgunderszene because he watched a bombing raid in Paris while sipping Burgundy. The stylish supervillain of twentieth-century German literature’s disquisition shared dire and prophetic words on what a future world would be, in what he called the “Age of the Titans.”

Related – Twenty-two mind-blowing wines of 2022

Godello beneath a massive Tuscan Mazza di Tamburo/Parasol Mushroom

Or this. “The label represents the position of the vines in coordinates, echoed in the machicolations of a sangiovese that drops all the stones on unsuspecting palates through fruit openings between supporting acid corbels of a projecting tannic parapet.” Where did that come from? Or simply, “who needs fruit when you have rocks?”

Related – Twenty-one mind-blowing wines of 2021

ColleMassari

More than rugs tie rooms together – lyrics, song titles, movie quotes, literary passages, exchanges between a journalist and a poet, thinker, writer, actor or composer – they are all a part of the masala. Reminds of a 2021 interview with a reluctant prophet. “Try to sit down and write something like that – there’s a magic to that and it’s not Siegfried & Roy kinda magic you know, it’s a different kind of penetrating magic.” All kidding comparisons aside with Bob Dylan’s answers to Ed Bradley in that famous 60 minutes exchange, but they may just be artistic words to live by. And why Godello? “You call yourself what you want to call yourself. This is the land of the free.” As for the relevance of wine tasting notes, sure it feels like being “a wordsmith from bygone days,” but it still feels right. And necessary. And unavoidable. A bottomless pit of cultural oblivion? No, not that. Tasting notes tell stories that need to be told. Relayed by messengers fulfilling a destiny to visit and break bread with good people making great wines and in turn agreeing to relay their tales. Tasting notes are the chronicles, expressed as narrative, of anecdotes woven through prose. If there is a better way to say what needs to be said it has not yet been found.

Related – Twenty mind-blowing wines of 2020

Chianti Classico’s Cento Anni

As of today’s date and the publishing of this year-end list Godello has reviewed 4,225 wines. If the origins of said wines were to be separated into categories than the breakdown would be as follows. Thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (8) Piemonte, (6) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (14) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 24, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2024. Here are his twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024.

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033.   Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, Vdp. Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted March 2024

Adega Do Vulcáo (c) entrevinhas.com

Adega Do Vulcáo Ameixâmbar 2022, Açores IG

A seriously volcanic blend of native grapes from two areas, first the ash of the Capelinhos and second the basalt of the Criaçào Velha. Add in the cold Atlantic influence and the result is something extraordinary to potentially mind-blowing. That depends on how much flint struck rock, mineral mouthfuls and deepening trajectories you may or not desire in your endemically-formulated white wines. Ameixambar is just such an animal and the profile, especially noted with verve and lashes upon the palate, is well, remarkable. Nothing else feels or tastes like this wine. Truly salty and there are notes that imagine powder created by crushing many different shells, inclusive of oyster, calm and mussel. You may ask yourself what is this, but you can answer with a simple word, or place. Açores. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted July 2024

(c) inama.wine

Inama I Palchi Grande Cuvée Foscarino Soave Classico DOC 2021

I Palchi, as in the “stages,” a geographical term for a series of wide terraces aboard Monte Foscarino lined with pergolas of old garganega vines. In this case Inama’s highest level of Soave Classico meant to celebrate the ancients. As a surname it belonged to a cleric but also Antonio Foscarini (c. 1570 in Venice – 22 April 1622), member of the Venetian nobility, ambassador to Paris, London and later sentenced to death for high treason by the Council of Ten and executed. Yikes! This Foscarino ode is intended towards grapes and volcanic terroir for a bloody incredible garganega of substance and style. The ’21’s ability to attract and engage the taster’s attention is at the top of the Soave game. Fresh, flinty and wholly engaging. Mind-blowing actually. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted December 2024

Marqués De Murrieta Capellanía Reserva Blanco 2018, Rioja DOCa

Only viura grapes are chosen from a six hectare calcareous clay plot off of 70 year-old vines located at the highest elevation of the Marqués De Murrieta Ygay Estate. The winemaking might well be working with sauvignon blanc and sémillon but with viura the ageing in French barrels takes a turn for the unexpected ethereal. The flinty smoulder is an intoxicant of the most hypnotizing order. The effect upon the palate and all the senes is extraordinary – mesmerizing. So what is Capellanía? In Spain it was a chantry or ecclesiastical endowment, one of several pious works commonly founded during the colonial period. A foundation in which certain assets are subject to the fulfillment of masses and other pious charges. Imaginatively speaking Capellanía is a rarity, monoceros, symbol of grace purity, power and transcendence. Not to mention healing powers and freedom. A unicorn. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted June 2024

Vanessa Cherruau
(c) media.ouest-france.fr

Château De Plaisance Sur La Butte 2021, Anjou AOP

A wildly aromatic two cabernet blend from the Butte de Chaume where some of the finest wines made anywhere come from Chaume, Quarts de Chaume and Savennières. The curiosity and modernist approach is made two-fold by the presence of cabernet sauvignon to stride effortlessly alongside the usual franc. Yes this smells like the Loire but the aromas deliver so much more, in curiosity and intriguing sensations. Anjou in place and temperament but in design this may as well be a contemporary, abstract or Pop Art piece by François Morellet. The two related varieties form an almost intricate geometric pattern in the way they line the palate, so cleanly drawn with mathematical clarity. Yes this is serious Loire red wine but it’s also traceable, pre-minimalist and post conceptual by design. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted April 2024

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted May 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Domaine De Bellene Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots Bourgogne AOC 2022

In the woods as they say, “souches” or here “Suchots,” a 0.2159 hectare block in Vosne-Romanée that hangs a little longer, likely because the forest asks it to. Fresher, high spirited and savoury Bourgogne comes from the vineyard, picked on September 5th, coming away with more phenolic grip and aromatic volume because of the place. Less defined in 2022 perhaps because of a vintage’s great munificence but as far as plots in this area are concerned there are few that will speak as clearly as Les Suchots. Seamless and focused, unique as they come in an era of technical proficiency and expertise. Drink 2026-2038.  Tasted August 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted September 2024

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadia and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

The hill within the hill, Bricco Pernice upon Ravera, isolated, insulated and encapsulated for nebbiolo of an insular and implosive intensity that’s likely unparalleled anywhere else in Novello. Closed and not because of vintage but due to time and really that’s about it A broad shouldered and muscular nebbiolo that must be given as much bottle time as it spent in cask, or double that for even better results. That means check back in 2026 or later to see if any part of the tannins have unfolded, unfurled or stretched out for some exercise. Likely not but then some parts will finally have as the decade unwinds. Also it’s normal in January for Pernice to be tight and a bit closed. Oh, by the way this was made with 100 PERCENT WHOLE BUNCH NEBBIOLO. For Barolo. Single vineyard Barolo from a storied MGA. Walter’s mid-life crisis begins right here and it’s glorious. Drink 2029-2045.  Tasted January 2024

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

A top echelon cru, a producer that gets it as well as if not better than the rest and an eponymous label out of a relationship that develops longevity without equal. That would be the thrilling isosceles trilogy of Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Bricco Boschis and Barolo. Their 2010 is as youthful as any nebbiolo of this age, striking, rising, invigorating and still working through its operations. A performance piece of varietal for landscape as the most terroir driven Barolo as any of the best in the land can be. A triangle of Castiglione Falletto that speaks in unequivocal terms, fruit, acid and tannin intertwined, five years of this life still laid out ahead, 10 further for curiosity and interest beyond. Truth. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted January 2024

Poggio Lombrone, Tenuta di Montecucco

Collemassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2018

I walked this vineyard only recently upon arriving to the Castello di Montecucco at the advent of a blue-lit twilight on the second Sunday in November. The impression was a captivating one, from the site, its undulating slopes casting a strong and forceful presence. Poggio Lombrone was first made in 2007 and ColleMassari’s voice was instrumental in securing the DOCG for Montecucco sangiovese. A special vineyard with older plant material than just about anywhere in Montecucco, upwards of 60 years now and THE place to promote the authenticity, but also to preserve the local savoir-faire that distinguishes Montecucco sangiovese. Longest ager in Riserva togs because of potential, a wine of località Cinigiano fermented for at least 30 days (and 45 in 2016) in open Gamba casks with daily (hand) punchdowns to realize a production of 9,000-10,000 bottles. Ages in only two or three year-old grandi botti but not in really old casks. French of a few years are ideal to seek and attain the desired elegance. The 2018 is a strong version of varietal independence off of the Lombrone hillside, upright and linear yet never found to be awkward, though it is a wine of tannic charge. Fine tannins in fact with good energetic pulse, still needing more integration, its ceiling set ultra high. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted November 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted February 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040.  Tasted May 2024

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2020

Montosoli the northerly Montalcino mound, the hill of freshness, the knoll where sangiovese gains grip, savour and elegance, where Canalicchio di Sopra’s Vigna designate Brunello from six hectares delivers approximately five into this wine. The precision and fluidity of this ’20 is just about as fine and graceful as the Ripaccioli have ever produced. Literally the juice or blood of Montosoli’s Galestro, a clay-schist flaking at the surface bleeding back down into the earth, acquired by the roots, vacuumed back up into the vines and gifted to the bunches. Sapidity is similar to 2018 and that year was cold(er) which explains how soil is such the driver, especially for Montosoli. This tastes as you might expect, concentrated, texturally full and without pause. Incredible Brunello. Poised, seemingly ready but not, looking ahead two decades, maybe more. With thanks to perfectly restrained cellar work, timing and decision making. In this moment, at least in terms of clarity, 2020 is a Montosoli vintage. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038.  Tasted November 2024

With Giacomo Neri

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Cerretalto 2019

The Cerretalto canyon is this singular Brunello’s origin, the place defined by Giacomo Neri as a “plintite,” of quartz, iron and magnesium elements residing next to and bleeding into the four hectare vineyard, which is incidentally a cooler località for Montalcino and very special place. Rare in the world, of an elemental-geological symbiosis found in parts of Australia, Brazil, China and here, in Montalcino. “It’s another planet” insists Giacomo Neri. You will smell blood and flint (a.k.a. gunpowder) because of the mineral personality. This is Brunello di Montalcino from sangiovese something altogether incomparable. A sangiovese wearing the terroir of a Tuscan trough on its sleeve, having spent two and a half years in tonneaux (more or less 20 percent new) and the same amount of time in bottle ahead of its much anticipated release. Yes the aromatics are concerned with trace metals and ingredients of the “canalone” of Torrenieri, but do not sleep on the purity and modernity of red to black fruit, or at least the perception brought forth because of the minerals involved. Sweetness of acidity is classic Casanova di Neri for 2020 but in Cerretalto they are near perfect and the tannins move from those noted out of Tenuta Nuova multiplied by the Giovanni Nero fineness to now enter into the arena of higher love. For the first time this estate’s Brunello di Montalcino should be given an absurd amount of time. Observing it change in the glass over 30 minutes explains much of what is needed to be known. Drink 2028-2043.  Tasted November 2024

Contrada Chiesa, Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane, Torano Nuova

Nothing else noses like this montepulciano and what is also perceived is the extreme youth of such an example. Gifts with shadowy hints and generous ideas but the sensations yet to come are manyfold, if quite possibly infinite. Fruit source just feels tops and selection so much more stringent than just about any in the appellation. Tannins are about as tight as any in all of Abruzzo and the interplay between fruit and structure is both playful but also gripped by an intensity of tension. A few sips gathers the swarthiness of the vintage but time will elasticize and disperse the parts. The potential here is great and if this is not looked upon as a top vintage today there will be times over the next 25 years where that opinion is challenged. Drink 2027-2039.  Tasted March 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted May 2024

Vineyards in Ulmo

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted September 2024

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Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Coonawarra, South Australia

From vines planted in 1994 and 1996 right there where it matters within Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip. The Menzies, as in the name of the estate where the Hill-Smith family saw the future back in 1992, there on a flat plain, approximately 70 km from the coast. The cooling Bonney upwelling is an influence and the red soil is, well everything. That said 2017 was a wet and cool season by Coonawarra standards and harvest required many passes over a 10-day period in April. Climate being what climate has become translates as a special cabernet sauvignon because the cool factor, for gelid fruit and sweet savour, not to mention more complex notions of herbs, spices and seasoning than you could seemingly fit into one bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Complexity be glory, as they say and the rest will be history. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted October 2024

Good to go!

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Nebbiolo previews 2024: Roero DOCG 2021, Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019 and Retrospectives

Barbaresco 2021

What is Barbaresco? The answer can’t help but be complex, but the best approach is to look back, to recall some of the finest nebbiolo tasted from the denomination’s villages and communes, of Alba, Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. Memories of unrelenting Barbaresco having acted out with impunity, aromatic exoticism, power, fragrance, precision and balance. Exceptional and unparalleled nebbiolo built upon tannic building blocks, understood, necessary, gratifying and satisfying. Recollection and reminiscence will return to the most human emotions, to the most underestimated of Piedmontese wines. Those that make you think, smile, wink, cry and sigh. They that speak of the vineyard and how properly they are treated. The nebbioli that get under your skin, teach you what you need to know and tell you that everything is alright. Barbaresco as good friends, therapists and if need be, they can be festaioli.

Albeisa presentation in Alba

Related – Nebbiolo Previews 2024: Barolo 2020 DOCG, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018 and Retrospectives

The finest Barbaresco knows itself like a great human perfectly comfortable in its own skin and it might live to the age of 30 without experiencing one single moment of stress. They are quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, reserved, demure and only wishing to be experienced in states of calm and comfort. Aromas but a whisper and flavours tacitly generous, unspoken while turning up the volume. Low and slow development lingering tannin, untangled, untwisted and liberated. Nebbiolo spoken with the utmost clarity and reminders that Barbareschi can offer some of the greatest nebbiolo values. Think of a vintage and forward 15 years to when the integration of fruit causes the wine to become a victim of happy imbibers. Such is the case for the imagination and projections for two dozen international journalists gathered at the Albeisa Wines offices in Alba for the 28th edition of Nebbiolo Prima. Each possessive of their pwn personal calling to mind of past experiences in order to bring about a focus on the present.

Albeisa – Barbaresco

Related – Nebbiolo Previews: Barbaresco DOCG 2020 and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Barbaresco from Alba are to a nebbiolo very pretty examples, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Most are lovely with mid term aging potential. For the village and commune of Barbaresco 2021 is an airy, dreamy and ethereal vintage with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this style could not exist at a high level of nebbiolo. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. From Neive the nebbioli are village typical of this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol, or at least the equivalent per se. More airy and open quality but also nervy, with real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice. As for Treiso, the wines are richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before these nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. So correct in their aromatic ways, not looking for praise, but worthy of it anyway. Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound.

Alba

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva are young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air, unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy, singular style and distinction, built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. As for the season coming next for Riserva, 2020 was launched by a Spring with quite a bit of rain, followed by a warm summer and then a normal harvest in the last week of September into the first of October for both the nebbiolo of Roero and Barbaresco. When the 2023s come into play they will be the children unscathed with no significant problems noted in the Langhe, especially as it pertains to the perenospera (downy mildew) virus. In fact 2021 was a much more difficult and challenging vintage due to extreme climatic events.

Presenting Albeisa wines in Alba

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Roero 2021 showed as well if not better than at any previous Anteprima for the region. Very forward fruit with a distinct vintage nebbiolo feel, in other words true specificity for nebbiolo with Roero as its host. Expressive wines were made of great richness and acids are still working through their repetitions. As per the sandy-mineral-clay soils the chalky tannins work nebbiolo with good pulse and so the potential is, well potentially great. The 2020 vintage is a charming one for Roero nebbiolo, perhaps less extracted and concentrated as compared to some but no less important or structured for good aging potential. In the finer examples fruit quality is there to stand up and be counted alongside structural parts. Well made wines in 2020, with clear ambition to age, which they will do quite well. There is some reduction but this seems to be a trend for Roero Riserva from the vintage.

Marina Marcarino, President Albeisa Wines

Year after year the opportunity to taste so many Nebbiolo and pay visits with producers is made possible by the organization of the Consorzio Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. Langhe Vini are supported and valorized by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani and these tastings support the mission. Much of the Anteprima’s success is facilitated by A-B Comunicazione team of Anna Barbon, Linda Foltran and Cinzia Luxardo. This twenty eighth year of Nebbiolo Prima once again acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. The following are Godello’s Roero and Barbaresco notes from Nebbiolo Prima 2024. There are 111 reviews in total; (11) Roero DOCG 2021, (15) Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, (3) Roero Riserva DOCG 2010, (62) Barbaresco DOCG 2021, (13) Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019, (3) Barbaresco DOCG 2011 and (4) Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009.

If you would like to view the top scoring wines from this report please click here.

Roero 2021

Roero DOCG 2021

Bric Castelvej Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Very forward fruit with a distinct vintage nebbiolo feel, straight away into the wild strawberry mixed with pomegranate way. Langhe and nebbiolo from Roero must be distinct and different than Barbaresco which is precisely what this is. Acids are very fine and tannins very manageable. Not a heavily structured wine, nor does it need to be. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero DOCG Bric Volta 2021, Canale

A bit deep in fruit as compared with some yet also reserved, nearly dullish aromatically speaking. Some potency and alcohol blocking the view to perfume. Chewy with a vanilla-caramel fudge quality that detracts from an “expected” Roero style. That is if such a thing is definable but this meets other expectations. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cornarea Roero DOCG 2021, Canale

Light and transparent for easy access nebbiolo from Roero, aromatically perfumed if demurely so. Crisp and tart, basic tannins with no real bite and soft spice. Basic and serviceable. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Battaglino Angelo di Battaglino Margherita Roero DOCG pQlin 2021, Castellinaldo

True specificity for nebbiolo with Roero as its host, here from the Castagnito cru and clearly respected as such. Mild sausage in swarthy notes that keep the aromas as the transfixed point of optics and olfactory interest. Then things turn over to a palate equally curious, attractive and wild. It’s all here for the interest and the taking. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Marsaglia Roero DOCG Brich d’America 2021, Castellinaldo

Truly tart and high acid nebbiolo from fruit pulled out of the cru called Castellinaldo. Rich and sumptuous though thinning on the palate or rather a wine that turns into this linear scintillant by varietal design. It’s a curious one that’s just a bit fraught with acetic matters. Can see the appeal for those who look for high caste tonality and energy. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ponchione Maurizio Roero DOCG Monfrini 2021, Govone

Cask sample: Very quiet nose from a nebbiolo reticent to open and set forth whatever it wishes to say. Requires major swirl, agitation and imagination. The palate is expressive of great richness and acids are still working through their repetitions. Chalky tannins and good pulse. Plenty off potential here. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Frea Lorenzo e Giovanni Roero DOCG 2021, Montaldo Roero

From the cru called Montaldo Roero and a nebbiolo with a notable and frankly knowable scent of diesel. Curious as to what causes this sort of aroma? Also pencil lead, graphite and cool metal. Clearly a terroir slash mineral example that has been exaggerated by the fermentative decisions. Crunchy wine and hopefully one to flesh out once these austere and drying tannins begin to dissipate. The potential is, well potentially great. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manuele Priolo Roero DOCG Anime Nere 2021, Monteu Roero

Quite acetic, verging on uncompromisingly swarthy and reductive in the most rubbery of ways. Agitation does little to blow it away. Barnyard though it’s not a case of Brettanomyces. Faulted in any case.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero DOCG Bin Fait 2021, Più comuni

Truly fruity aromatics, almost candy floss but confected in any case with strawberry the first to drive imagination and so perhaps we can get some satisfaction. Tannic, chalky and with a fully unctuous quality to speak of a wine that should shed the confiture and settle in before becoming something special. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Azienda Agricola Rosavica Benotti Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

Could be the cru, the winemaking or better still both because the structure in this Roero is at the tops for the range off “Classica” nebbioli. Austere tannins, fine if sweet acids and more than ample fruit prepare this 2021 Priocca for a long life ahead, Something about this MGA that speaks volumes about the potential for Roero. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cordero Gabriele Roero DOCG 2021, Priocca

The second of two Priocca cru is entirely apposite to the first, still tannic but here austere and really closed up front. There is some solid fruit hiding beneath and the palate tells a more open story but still the MGA is without a doubt the kind to create age-worthy nebbiolo. This sets a table for Roero to express heritage but with knowledge in pocket because making wine today is a new matter and one to allow wines to open in a year or two and then last for several after that. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tasting Roero and Barbaresco blind at Albeisa Headquarters – Alba

Roero Riserva DOCG 2020

Careglio Pierangelo Roero Riserva DOCG Valmezzana 2020, Baldissero d’Alba

A charming vintage for Roero nebbiolo, perhaps less extracted and concentrated as compared to some but no less important or structured for good aging potential. Here from the area of Baldissero d’Alba with more than ample stuffing to march alongside tannins already beginning to resolve. This Riserva is very close to its peak that should come about before the end of this calendar year. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malabaila di Canale Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2020, Canale

Higher toned nebbiolo here for Roero, bright and unencumbered by gravity. Some compaction in the tannin but not the fruit which rises weightless and free. Not a fully together communion but more so a Canale in two parts with wood standing apart as a result. Will continues to meet closer to the middle as it ages but drinking this in the next five to seven years is key because after that the fruit freshness will no longer be hanging around. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Mompissano 2020, Canale

Some funky beats in this Roero, local cheese rind and cured meat skins, a definite porcino feel and all that Canale savoir faire. Smells like the Alba market in late November, replete with dried porcini and fresh tartufi. Complex and parochial, tart, full of tang and a tincture of bitters. A special nebbiolo if not the most modern or unassuming kind. Drink 2024-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bric Castelvej Roero Riserva DOCG Panera Alta 2020, Canale

High-toned and quiet acetic on the nose which is a bit off-kilter for Roero as Riserva. Excess wood, overtly stemmy and savoury. Too vivid and the wood is so in our faces without tact. This will need to settle but may never do so, especially because what fruit there is feels so muddled by the wood and startling piques. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto e c. Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Canale

Quite a classic set of Roero nebbiolo aromas and enough substance behind the structure to put this at Riserva level quality. Lots of wood noted as well but as mentioned there is ample concentration from quality fruit to stand up and be counted alongside. Well made wine with clear ambition to age which it will do quite well. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Renesio 2020, Canale

Truly rich nebbiolo in Riserva form for Canale and Roero in a near perfect storm of all parts involved. In fact despite the ambitious wood there is really good and concentrated fruit of high quality to mix and match along. Rich and strong wine, lots of chocolate and potential to age up there with some of the finer Roero. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Lanzarotti di Ferrero Carlo Vittorio Roero Riserva DOCG Carlinöt 2020, Canale

Quite reductive for the trilogy of variety, vintage and place. A rubbery example of nebbiolo, woody 2020 and liquid peppery Roero to Canale. Rich enough, concentrated fruit and sturdy to not only handle but transform those reductive misgivings. Comes away tougher, stronger and equipped to handle the future. In the end the quality and potential are quite great. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Valdinera Roero Riserva DOCG San Carlo 2020, Corneliano d’Alba

Reduction though less than others but this seems to be a trend for Roero Riserva from the 2020 vintage. A real silky glycerol iteration here from Corneliano d’Alba with richness and fulsome qualities. Some bitter herbs and tight at the finish yet otherwise a sound and grippy wine. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renato Buganza Roero Riserva DOCG Renato Buganza 2020, Guarene

The Guarene nebbiolo is quite aromatically potent for Roero, a boozy feel straight away, a real punch up the olfactory. A swirl of liquor managed by thick glycerol and a heaviness with some Brettanymyces showing up on the palate. A bit shaggy with brittle tannins as a result. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelassa Daniele Roero Riserva DOCG S…….I 2020, Montà

Montà delivers a very pretty and charming example of nebbiolo from Roero with naturally sweet parts from start to finish. Fruit is conjoined to tannin by way of acids that are the catalyst and the ties that bind the wine. This is lovely and graceful, Riserva worthy and willing to please, if just about right away. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2020, Monteu Roero

Reductive and a bit swarthy here, some acetic notions mixed with swirling emotions. A bit buggy, hairspray, vinyl shower curtain action and so faults are faults, no matter the grape, time or place. Not a happy iteration of nebbiolo, 2020 or Monteu Roero I’m afraid. Over the top wood to boot.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Ca’ Rossa di Ferrio Angelo Roero Riserva DOCG Le Coste 2020, S. Stefano Roero

Sone stoic personality here and quire reserved for Roero in Riserva clothing. Thick aromatic swirl, round and round it goes, never stopping and when it will no one knows. As with so many of its ilk the summary is marked by wood that cloaks and sheathes the fruit so that it submits and succumbs. Too much wood and the question is why? Structure and aging but fruit freshness must be there for the beginning to project real success. There is some but it’s covered and hidden. By the time it finds its way out it will mostly be gone. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Demarie Giovanni di Demarie Aldo Roero Riserva DOCG 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Cask sample: Now for something completely different. Ribena? Yes, that is Ribena, up front and central to the notes in this nebbiolo. Ribena that may dissipate once bottled but will always be part of the fabric. That and an overuse of wood. Vanilla and lavender are omnipresent and the nebbiolo is lost. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore, Vezza d’Alba

Fine aromatic nebbiolo for Roero comes like this and we appreciate the honesty. In Riserva terms the wood is as ambiguous and/or integrated as well as any in the category. It’s there but it works in tandem with quality fruit just concentrated enough to handle and play well in the box. Somewhat simple but very serviceable wine. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacomo Barbero Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2020, Vezza d’Alba

Well managed tannin and wood have set this Roero up for good success. A balanced nebbiolo for Vezza d’Alba, of middle road taken parts, concentrated but not excessively so and oak that works the same line. Good bones but again, nothing large, ambitious or serious about it. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carciofi – La Piola, Alba

Roero Riserva DOCG 2010

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Roero Riserva DOCG Trinità 2010, Canale

Fine shape and steading at 13-plus years of age for nebbiolo from Roero, quietly and comfortably secondary without worry from advancing into tertiary anytime soon. A Christmas cake or plum pudding kind of state, home cooking and acidity very much in tact. Easement with nebbiolo of yesteryear to act as spokeswine for why Roero should be discussed today in its own light. Drink 2024-2027.   Tasted January 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Roero Riserva DOCG Sudisfà 2010, Più comuni

A Più comuni nebbiolo that has lost its aromatics but neither its sheen nor lustre after 13+ years post vintage. Now only acid relatable smells, a varnish or a spray and while the palate is slightly more expressive it’s still about all concepts tart. No fruit to speak of, nor complexities truly secondary.  Tasted January 2024

Cascina Chicco Roero Riserva DOCG Valmaggiore 2010, Vezza d’Alba

More maturity for sure on the aromas though they are exotically charged and emotionally inviting. Tones are set to high and surely always were for nebbiolo that would have been dominated by red citrus in its primary fruit stages. Now the wood is noticed, melted and pooled in a macerated mess of evolution and reeking of varnishes. The perfumes are sweet, the flavours sour but like chewy confections, gum arabic “pate de jujubes” so-to-speak. Like dessert nebbiolo with just a gram or two of residual sugar. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Alba

Barbaresco DOCG 2021

Alba

Alessandro Rivetto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Alba

Barrel sample: Somewhat mature and already advanced for a wine not yet bottled or supposed to be ready. Dried fruit notes, like leathery plum and persimmon, juicy enough yet knowably moving forward with haste. Quite the level of tang though acidity is mild and this will clearly need to be consumed in the near term. Drink 2024-2025.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria Di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2021, Alba

Very pretty example of nebbiolo from Alba as Barbaresco, red fruit openly generous and available with fresh roses as the main perfume. Crisp and also a 2021 you can sink your teeth into, with fine acidity and equally representative tannin. A truly proper example of Barbaresco for mid-plus aging. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Sanadaive 2021, Alba

Quite the pretty aromatics and a simple palate with a bit of weakness or hollowness in the middle parts. Tannins dry out, not brittle mind you but they don’t add to the equation. A Barbaresco by subtraction. Drink 2026-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Rizzi 2021, Alba

Cask sample: This first look at the Barbaresco cru and while this both expresses for upfront fruit and also delivers a structured message, it’s not quite as stiff and vertical as some of its nebbiolo counterparts. That red fruit design might come from more organic or generous terroir within the cru or the winemaking might pull the fruit quicker and keep the tannins at bay. Either way it’s a lovely example of Barbaresco with mid term aging potential. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Alba and Barbaresco

Barbaresco

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2021, Barbaresco

An airy, dreamy and ethereal quality in presentation with that lightness of nebbiolo being that might make some think this will not exists at a high level of Barbaresco. They would be wrong because this is precisely what it means to be Barbaresco, albeit weightless and still by dint of being supremely confident. The fruit is in play, the tannins austere, not yet ready to join the fray and the potential is spoken in unwritten ways. Wait three years to get some answers. Drink 2027-2035.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Reduction spoken though volatile compounds, liquid peppery and a vague moment’s notice of Brettanomyces. Nothing egregious but definitely an accent of style. Lots of substance here, weight and also flesh, not to mention drying tannins. The austerity is positive and while the volatility will also have its say this traditional and characterful Barbaresco will please the buyer who looks for those mired and paying homage to traditional ways. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2021, Barbaresco

Thin and unassuming aromas followed by similar nondescript palate notions. A touch jammy but also green and weedy. Nothing egregious but nor is this offering up anything special, especially by Barbaresco standards. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Really knowable nebbiolo nose from the Barbaresco cru, richly defined and of a purity of varietal fruit. Fulsome and substantial of floral meeting mineral openings before transferring seamlessly to flavours equally luxe and supported by essential structure. This is years away from its finale, set upon a course across seas of low, slow and incremental development before it comes to rest on a shore where the world of the Langhe is properly revealed. This my be a sample but it is clearly a wine to drink over a minimum 15 years of time. Wow. Stupendo. Drink 2026-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga 2021, Barbaresco

Cask sample: Of the light, taut and demure kind, a nebbiolo held back though one that will never become a big and fleshy affair. Some swarthy chew to the palate which feels quite disparate to the aromatics but as a sample it is given the benefit of the doubt to settle down and in. Some raw dough as well which indicates some incongruence in fermentative temperatures in conjunction with what this Barbaresco fruit requested and required. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Montaribaldi 2021, Barbaresco

From the Barbaresco cru and a heady if also impressively floral set of aromas emanating from the glass. Also the first of the 2021s to deliver blood orange and so suddenly thoughts turn to considering that fruit aroma as a hallmark of the vintage, at least for the MGA of Barbaresco. There is some taut behaviour and grip to the mouthfeel so be wary of drinking this anytime soon because it may grab your palate and suck the energy away. Give two years to allow a settling and better integration before this ’21 can initiate the pique to curiosity and potential. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

The nose may be closed on this nebbiolo but it just feels like much is hidden in the hallways, shadows and chiaroscuro of the vintage. A wealth of flesh and likely vertically upright skeletal bones that put this hearty example from Barbaresco at the pinnacle for cru and vintage. Truth in palate confirms suspicion and expectation driven by facts and figures from a sunbeam of a wine built on artistic power and creative science. This will win hearts, minds and palate wherever it may be poured. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Some formaggi straight away with good red fruit though less rustic than what that washed rind note would have first seemed to dictate. Solid palate, fleshy and juxtaposed against a drying, genuinely austere backdrop of tannins. This is somewhat old school but also expressive of major personality. Give it two years and enjoy the slow change over the coming eight. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Morassino 2021, Barbaresco

Acetic, jumpy, unsettled, very acid driven. Also another balsamic example from vintage where that is the exception to the rule. High toned in just about every respect yet there is a juiciness to the fruit that wells and pools on the palate. Dries out severely at the finish to confirm earlier suspicions and also begs for time. Drink 2026-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Yet another quiet aromatic entry for a nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA, unsurprising and quite typical for the vintage. Some roses as dried as they are fresh (or a mix of the two) and rosy red fruit in the currant-pomegranate style. Crisp and crunchy, with dried herbs, mountain brush and tea. Well made, older-schooled, austere and traditionally very correct. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Rattalino Massimo Barbaresco DOCG Quarantadue42 2021, Barbaresco

Sometimes nebbiolo presents as a swarthy, almost Amaro-inflected liqueur and this would be said example of that style. Luxe both aromatically and also in terms of flavours yet boozy, a tonic of fruits and bitters, stirred, swirled, viscous and unctuous. A bit over the top in this regard and pasty, with a raw potato finish. Given two years it will integrate better but will fall off a cliff another year after that. Drink 2026-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Carlo Giacosa di Giacosa Maria Grazia Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

The nose may be closed on this nebbiolo but it just feels like much is hidden in the hallways, shadows and chiaroscuro of the vintage. A wealth of flesh and likely vertically upright skeletal bones that put this hearty example from Barbaresco at the pinnacle for cru and vintage. Truth in palate confirms suspicion and expectation driven by facts and figures from a sunbeam of a wine built on artistic power and creative science. This will win hearts, minds and palate wherever it may be poured. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Quiet, quite reserved and immovable nebbiolo, best left to fight another day. Somewhat acetic, of two-toned balsamic notes and it has already become apparent that this is not in fact a balsamic vintage. Tart yet full on the palate and a Barbaresco that reminds of 2017, with dried fruit, dusty tannins and high acid. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Pora 2021, Barbaresco

Wildly fragrant nebbiolo, knowable and volumetric, confidence exuded and table set for what’s to come. Fruits of many ilk and austere tannins with everything in compliment, though far from integrated. Great grip, potency and structure in what is becoming a hallmark of the vintage: Power without alcoholic presence. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cortese Giuseppe di Pier Carlo Barbaresco Rabaja DOCG 2021, Barbaresco

Just as a comment on the last wine was made about the vintage not being one of alcoholic notability along comes an example that is just that. Then again the fruit and the overt structure seem quite capable of handling the tension and the pressure. Clearly serious nebbiolo here from Barbaresco though also one exuding confidence, high libido and no shame. The first to truly show its casks with ambition and this will live for a decade and potentially two or more. Drink 2026-2036.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Rabaja-Bas 2021, Barbaresco

More reserve, more waiting, more time needed to see where a 2021 nebbiolo will travel. Still this is a light and tart example with very drying tannins and not quite enough fruit stuffing to see it conjure great expectations. Fine enough while acids are equally intense to put this in near if not quite top exemplary status. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG Rio Sordo 2021, Barbaresco

Fine pulse and weight to the nose of this nebbiolo from the Barbaresco MGA. Notable and knowable red fruit that comes in waves before crashing at the palate’s shore. But just as waves will do they keep coming in syncopated rhythm and this 2021 is neither calm nor stormy but something in the middle, therefore consistent and imitable. Really good weight, measure and balance overall. Really quite fine and age-worthy. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2021, Barbaresco

Reticent and somewhat thinning if also dishy aromatics. They do improve and flesh out with air so be sure to take a moment and wait with this nebbiolo because it will realize more potential then first thought. Still the palate is simple and while effective it does not grab or cause excitement. It’s dullish and low down. Well enough and good for the short term. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Ronchi 2021, Barbaresco

Quite taut, tart and tight nebbiolo with opening grip and an intensity both on the nose and equally so upon the palate. Crunchy and verdant, some freshness but also dried qualities, both floral and herbal. Older schooled, for tradition and heritage, well made, preserved and determined. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Barbaresco and Neive

Neive

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

More airy and open quality here but also nervy for nebbiolo, of always specific Barbaresco ways. A glycerin feel to the palate and real fruit flavours that receive accent from sweet spice and then forming texture. Really high quality here, some grip to the tannin but not necessarily what one might think of as tension. An elastic sensation, stretching and returning back in balance. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani DOCG 2021, Neive

So typical of Neive Barbaresco is this full and substantial aromatic presence as if the perfume were predicated on glycerol or at least the equivalent per se. This particular nebbiolo is expressive of something marine in origin, almost oyster shell which could indicate terroir or something blowing in from afar. Either way it’s both curious and piquing for cerebral interest. A wine of substance and complexity, sweet acidity and drying tannin. Kind of classic with a twist, when you think about it. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Stoic, austere, unrelenting nebbiolo. Holding firm on the aromatic front, keeping still, a target hard to define, pinpoint or access. Fruit in the shadows but its there and we trust that when it emerges the wine will sing in the way that nebbiolo is meant to sing. There are parts to this wine with meaning and again, when things come together the balance will be tight, because we can already intuit such a feeling. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

Light on its feet, simple and selectively structured nebbiolo. Balanced, no out of sort parts or sensations not in line with the others. Today seemingly basic and unexceptional if quite possibly misunderstood in youth – but surely correct for Barbaresco, Basarin and nebbiolo. May come out and awy in a few years and offer new surprises. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2021, Neive

The first Barbaresco 2021 of this deep red hue and clearly something extra or pressed sits in this glass. The perfume confirms the suspicion because no other example in a sea of 60 samples appears and is expressed this way. Intensely perfumed, floral to an nth degree and what follows is rich, extremely tart and powerful. The ambition and the wood here are far greater than most and it works, for the most part, but the drying finish tells us that the impression will be shorter lived. The next two years are needed for settling and the following three (or possibly four) will be its most impressive. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

A solid, richly defined and properly structured nebbiolo with Barbaresco flesh and bones. Nothing overly impressive or excitement but solid, serviceable and exemplary to the degree of requiem or necessity. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG Canova 2021, Neive

Glycerol, syrupy nebbiolo with a mildly stewed character. Both aromas and palate are in synch with this style and tannins are present if drying and out of that rhythm. Not a lot of equanimity or joy. Drink 2025-2027.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2021, Neive

One of the darker, more unctuous and well established fruit cumulate nebbiolo from Neive and that is in fact a trait of certain examples from that village and MGA. Much to go on, fruit pectin and terroir so resourceful to bring personality and also character to this nearly formidable wine. Not so much in a structured way because this shows some maturity and hasty development but it’s tasty and useful for the near term. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Negro Giuseppe di Negro Piergiorgio Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Truly proper Neive entry in perfume of red fruits and flowers so succinctly, purely and precisely defined. No let down in flavours with rich, luxe and some developed notes but the tannins and also acids are inlined to see this carry forward for a proper and serviceable amount of time. Well made, presentable and expressive of the place. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2021, Neive

Reductive in a rubber and liquid peppery way to put this in reserve style for nebbiolo from Neive. The potential just has to be great when you consider the substance that lurks beneath the shell with nary a thought of potential negation. Rich, powerful and structured for long aging to speak for Barbaresco that as modern as it will eventually become inviting. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bera di Bera Valter Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Holding firm form and staying tight as the cask sample it should be and one a bit hard to assess at this early stage. Rich of fruit and sweet acids with more than ample to substantial weight in reserve. Quite fine and of a stature that fills the requiem of Barbaresco desire if of a very modern design. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sarìa di Abbruzzo Francesco Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Cask sample: Yet another succinct and knowable example of Neive nebbiolo with its glycerol and sweet acids sired into fruit for impressive elixir stature. Much to admire about the nose with its red fruit and florals though there is a hint of Ribena or perhaps strawberry cordial. It’s a lovely swirl, a bit more showy than graceful but worthy of an impression made nonetheless. There are many who will see the flavour and the success in this wine. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2021 – Neive

Montaribaldi di Taliano Luciano e Taliano Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Palazzina 2021, Neive

Far from showy, on the lighter, taut and closed side of nebbiolo but the palate will almost certainly tell a different story. That it does with more unction and varietal liqueur, silk and liquid chalky tannin in good support. Some dried fruit there so not a Barbaresco to lay down for a decade and likely quite a bit less than that. The wood here leads to seeing a truffled future arriving before too long. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2021, Neive

Well established, conditioned and positioned Barbaresco from and for Neive. Got the unction and the glycerol but aromatically speaking there is nothing gratuitous about the waves. They arrive and repeat in syncopated rhythm, as does the fruit and acid upon the palate. There are interchangeable moments of fine bitters and tannic pushes that support and extend this nebbiolo for length that lingers and repeats in better, finer and more impressive ways than most. A long term Barbaresco amongst the best. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Barbaresco DOCG Collina Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Dark of hue, richness of colour, pressed for success. Richness and luxe behaviour, all up front on display, a peacock strutting, its feathers for all to see. Low acids and drying tannins for not the best structural combination. Quick exit here. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Light, swarthy, older schooled, slightly Brettanomyces involved. Not the most substantial or expressive nebbiolo and while this could be looked upon as a late bloomer it does not seem like enough substance is hiding in the shadows. Basic wine at the end of the glass. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2021, Neive

Exotic spicing to nebbiolo may not typically define Neive yet here we are with such an animal in the village’s pot. Some swarthy aromas as well, plenty of wood in every respect and a wine that could use some time to at least try and settle down. Leathery skin, tannins a bit hard and brittle, weight quite well gauged and there is some fashion in this wine. Just a bit all over map if you get the drift. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Giuseppina Rosanna Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2021, Neive

Cask sample: For Walter Fissore 2021 is a much more muscular vintage than either 2019 and 2020, a beautiful if hot vintage though normal season in terms of water. A normal season but today that means powerful wines. Harvested in Neive late September and will go to bottle in February, “at the time of the full moon, not because of biodynamics but because of tradition.” Incredible tannins here, very broad, like shoulders and this is what should be from ’21 Barbaresco, along with freshness and top ranking acidity. Grabs a hold of the palate and refuses to let go. We like that too. Potential is great. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted January 2024

La Libera – Alba

Più comuni

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Teorema 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: Big cask sample, as rich and developed of 2021 fruit as any but also those that are already in bottle. It’s all there for the taking and there is already quite a bit of wood resolution on this nebbiolo so can’t really see any reason why it’s not already bottled. Time to get on it! Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Mon Sertù 2021, Più comuni

Just lovely perfume, purity of aromatic fruit, red berries incarnate and a nebbiolo that melts into the olfactory. Suave, silken and yet acids but also tannin show some grip, but never their teeth. A pretty swirl of all parts, variegated while together and though not a Barbaresco for the ages it’s surely one that well represents the category. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Morra Gabriele Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Fine, tight and exemplary which is the way a Barbaresco of Più comuni should attract and deliver the nebbiolo message. Very correct, expressly serviceable, of solid weight, mild volatility, bright acidity and a good example of the fine 2021 vintage. Drink 2024-2026.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Più comuni

Cask sample: A gentle swarthiness and just that ever so slightly held back, tight and reserved set of qualities confirms the cask sample idea behind the unreleased notion of this wine. It’s not quite ready and yet not so far away so when it hits the bottle it will begin its pleasing phase within a year or so after that. Still in the teasing, pre-tasting way of nebbiolo but the time is approaching. Some Brettanomyces here, nothing urgent mind you but it does dry the finish a bit more than the wine would otherwise likely wish to do. Drink 2025–2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco – Treiso

Treiso

Agricola Molino Barbaresco DOCG Ausario 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: A true cask sample from Treiso that might be considered treason were the desire to taste it be right now. Richly grippy and of a power that needs to relent before this nebbiolo can be assessed and enjoyed in plain sight. Those tannins are demanding and the tension is palpable, only increased because the full and substantial flesh of this wine is wanting to be regulated. This will become something impressive indeed. Drink 2026-2032.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Casot 2021, Treiso

Sometimes typical can be a less than flattering tern but in this case it is meant to both compliment and admire a Barbaresco from Treiso that start off right. So correct in its aromatic ways, not looking for praise but worthy of it anyway. A rich swirl of fruit, floral and mineral, all parts being equal to set this up for a nebbiolo of great desire. More than solid in every respect, acids so sweet and fulsome, tannins present yet never austere. A really pretty Barbaresco, not for long aging but surely for up to five-plus really good drinking years. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Giacone 2021, Treiso

Treiso Barbaresco of a different sort, aromatic with herbal notes, some of them dried. Getting rosemary, fennel seed, pencil lead and chalk. More richness and liquidity on the palate that makes for a fine conversion and change of pace. A wine of two parts but each are interesting and inviting in their separate ways. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG Giacosa 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Heavy perfume, rich and unctuous, as is the palate that follows. This is a nebbiolo of mouthfeel, sumptuous and full, substantial and welling with that glycerol feel. Not typically Treiso per se but as a cask sample this could very well change in a year or two. The structure here is more than solid. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2021, Treiso

Very forward for Barbaresco and over the years this seems to be an increasing trend for Treiso. Warmer locations, sunspot and sun-drenching vineyards, major fruit accumulation and lesser if also sweeter tannins in result. In this sense the 2021 here is a perfect example of vintage and place so the conclusion is drink Treiso sooner than most other commune/village examples because (as a rule) they are meant to deliver early in just this way. Drink 2024-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2021, Treiso

Once again Treiso gives and gives early, of easy to love and get with fruit, all red berries and stone type, tannins present yet unobtrusive. There is a bit more demand in the ones provided this nebbiolo but still it fits the Treiso mold in Barbaresco vernacular. Lovely drop, easy, correct and fashionably modern. Drink 2024-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: More crisp and crunchy nebbiolo, owing to the not yet bottled cask sample yet still Treiso and verifiably so. The wealthy fruit so naturally sweet with acids very much on a continuance of that line before tannins do nothing to waver or deviate from the party. A sample but one so close to reading itself for drinking. Get this to bottle so it can be enjoyed. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG Giacone Lorens 2021, Treiso

Less open and immediately gratifying for Treiso Barbaresco yet still an example expressive of some generosity because well, Tresio. All the parts are bigger and yet complimentary in this 2021. The fruit is full, the acids substantial and the tannins a bit more magnanimous than the average village iteration. Flesh and bones heightened, extended and ultimately impressive. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ Del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Autinbej 2021, Treiso

Brighter and back to the Treiso normal or average from this 2021. That said the wood is a bit heavier and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is in full effect. Makes for some artificial feels but still the village is at the heart of the matter. It just can’t help but be. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Munfrin di Flori Michele Barbaresco DOCG Flori 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready for prime time cask sample because first off its Treiso and secondly the aromas are more than open. A gregarious nebbiolo for a sample and one to invite, entice and also draw the senses forward. Not to mention a level of maturity of all three parts of the wine; fruit, acids and tannin. There are all good to go, save for just a moment’s austerity. Will be ready to drink less than a year from now. Drink 2025-2028.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bosio Family Estates Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2021, Treiso

More than just a gentle swarthiness marks this 2021’s entry and our senses become acutely and quickly aware of what’s to come. That would be a Treiso Barbaresco of overt personality juxtaposed against the drying of austere tannins. A bit of a disparate situation and challenging game being played. A prime example of a seriously structured nebbiolo that needs time. Drink 2026-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barbaresco Pajorè DOCG 2021, Treiso

Intense nebbiolo here from Treiso, implosive and really tightly wound. Good fruit substance though more red lightning and scintillant succulence than your average Treiso iteration. Shows some guts and braun, tension and potential for eventual glory. A big wine though also one so far away from the truest expression it will deliver. Dries out quite a bit at the finish so it feels like tension and lessening fruit will define its descending trajectory. Drink 2026-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2021, Treiso

A rich and somewhat intense example of nebbiolo with the Treiso grace but exaggeratedly so. The fruit is pure village iterated but the structure is grippier and stronger than your average nebbiolo from there. Chewy one this Treiso, one you can really sink your teeth into its leathery hide. Quite substantial and the potential for aging is surely long. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeirano 2021, Treiso

Back to basics with a light, fruit forward and amenable Tresio nebbiolo. On the left or easy side of the Barbaresco spectrum with tart acids and yet sneaky tannins. This is surely the pomegranate molasses style, textural with its sweet red fruit accented by even sweeter spice. Feel the wood here but it is already beginning to integrate. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Cask sample: Nearly ready despite being a cask sample but stay calm and focused because there are some shadowy tannins waiting in the wings. A fineness of nebbiolo coupled with an ease of Treiso style puts this Barbaresco is fine steading and well balanced behaviour. A cheese rind note and also some sweet if musky charcuterie adds complexity if also curiosity. Very well styled, presented and set up for a good long life ahead.  Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ca’ del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2021, Treiso

Crisp, crunchy and drying nebbiolo here from Treiso, not perfectly typical, surely austere and in the end an old-school example. Noticeable wood and more dryness from the tannins that are provided. Time required and heeded will see to a much more open and forthcoming nebbiolo. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva 2019

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2019

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rizzi 2019, Alba

Cask sample: A cask sample but a maturing, dare it be said oxidative one. This is precisely the reason that cask sample assessments can be ill-fated and or deceiving. Not much to to go on here I’m afraid.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Camp Gros 2019, Barbaresco

A high-toned, airy and scintillant example of nebbiolo, especially as a Riserva from the 2019 vintage. Shows how place truly matters above all else, or rather it must, no matter the time or intent. Here the truth that is Barbaresco is spoken loud and clear. Present, accounted for and right up there in the stratosphere. Not the most structured vintage but surely or nearly ready for prime time. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ronchi Riserva 2019, Barbaresco

Yet another young, high flying, out of the blue, up there in the thinning air example of Barbaresco unencumbered by wood or gravity. Plenty of fantasy here for nebbiolo from the eponymous village equipped with more substantial fruit than many. A classic iteration so place specific with tannic austerity that works well alongside and in compliment to the uncluttered and spacious fullness of the wine. Ahead of the pack so choose wisely because “you pay for this, but they give you that.” This Ronchi is special, will live a very long time, long after many have lost their lustre, faded away, into the black. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2019, Neive

Some issues here, a flaw that is distracting, acetone namely and it kills the fruit. Problematic to be sure. Two bottles, each the same.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin Vigna Gianmate’ 2019, Neive

Once again a 2019 of distinct style and distinction that speaks in both a clear Neive village vernacular but also for the vintage. This is because both the succulence and also high tonality are set to high. Fine wine here, not overly fulsome or structured but somewhere comfortably in between. Drink 2025-2029.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2019, Neive

Lovely nebbiolo built on substantial fruit, fluidity, ease, calm and a well structured frame. A beautiful Barbareso from Neive that has already resolved quite dutifully and is just about ready to drink with philanthropy in the proverbial window. Steady and graceful, a very charming wine that everyone needs to know. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sarotto Roberto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Currà 2019, Neive

Fine Barbaresco, fruit forward and quite full, darker than many, including a great number from the 2019 vintage. Perhaps the kind of nebbiolo that really delivers a Riserva message if done so with more wood than others and so the vanilla-white chocolate swirl is a bit extra. Fine beginning with less enthusiasm felt at the finish. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Lequio Ugo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Gallina 2019, Neive

High tones and warm ones as well from a Barbaresco that feels boozier and bigger then many. That said the bones are big and strong, the flesh filling in the holes and everything moving in synch, incrementally forward and in a proper developing direction. An impressive Neive nebbiolo and one to gain traction as it ages. Will impress Barolo lovers and they whop seek bigger. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco Riserva DOCG  ‘Il Pilone’ 2019, Neive

Warm and liquid peppery aromatics, big fruit and also wood by design. The barrel holds a bigger say than in many Barbaresco and so the ambition here is clear, present and real. No danger but more time is needed to make things come into place and view. This will surely lead to a truffled and porcini filed future. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Campo Quadro 2019, Neive

Tang in flashes, spurts and fits from a nebbiolo that really hits the high notes. This from Neive is recognizable if at the highest of that village’s heights. So much acidity and so little time! Fortunately plenty of fruit to back it up but style is style. Drink 2025-2030.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Ciabot 2019, Neive

Many of the Barbaresco Riserva for 2019 are either too young or to vivid to appreciate at this stage but this from Neive is just about right there. Really substantial fruit with that ropey liquorice feel, great red fleshiness and all the right kinds of supporting citrus. No lack for barrel or structure but this hits every note, ticks all boxes, dots the I’s and crosses its T’s. A fully formed, plausible and impressive Barbaresco in every regard. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Casmar 2019, Treiso

Yet another nebbiolo set to high, fruit and formaggi, cured meat and musky scents. Crazy acidity and drying tannins, wood spice and further tannic pressure in that way. All in Barbaresco with Treiso curiosity and charm in spite of how much happens to be going on. Will live a good decade or more, and beyond. Drink 2026-2033.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Ada Nada Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Cichin 2019, Treiso

As rises Treiso, so goes Treiso rising. A high tonality mixed with grace and charm like no other village for nebbiolo that is Barbaresco but here the vivid quality puts nature far ahead of nurture. That and generous wood with its supporting spices and sweet accents. Another fine Riserva for the vintage and one to age for a decade or more. Drink 2026-2034.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barbaresco 2011

Barbaresco DOCG 2011

Socré Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2011, Barbaresco

Perfectly fine, metered, reasonable, seasoned and measured older Barbaresco, distinctly nebbiolo and recent history tells that the Roncaglie cru will resolve this way. That would be with alcohol warmth intact, a warm vintage feeling of spices and seasoning, a gastronomy of varietal and place that always ends up this way. Why? It may answer “I don’t know, I guess the wind just pushed me this way.” Somewhere down the crazy (Tanaro) River. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Punset Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2011, Neive

Quite mature, quietly refined, confidently advanced and settled nebbiolo as Barbaresco from Neive’s important cru. Basarin was important then as it is now, a place where the long hill is exposed to the south by southeast and receives as much warmth as any in the appellation. That said Punset caught acidity at peak and the wine’s ability for preservation is admirable to exceptional. Keeps fruit alive even while leathery and drying notes gather momentum. There is great pleasure in sipping this 2011 (incidentally not qualified as Riserva) today. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2011, Treiso

No 2011 Barbaresco could be darker of hue or fresher of fruit than this Vallegrande cru by Grasso out of Treiso commune. That said it has been poured from magnum and once again we are wine-splained just how much of a difference longevity is affected by large format bottles. Sure the perfumes are showing maturity but time has been kind because of the receptacle size. A massively woody nebbiolo and so the aromas and flavours are all pooling with soy, varnish, chocolate and plum pudding spicing. This is very drinkable now but will soon begin to tip in a direction which will have little or nothing to do wth fruit. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2024

Barbaresco Riserva 2009

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Barbaresco

Now coming into Riserva from Barbaresco in its 15th season post vintage and who can forget the beauty of the 9s, from those that came before and also that which followed. This includes 2009, a season “made by God” as one or more producers were want to say. Of fruit so pure and free that time has been kind to preserve. Though quite sharp and tart at this stage it is with thanks to great acidity that this can show so fine and shine this bright as it does. A top echelon food wine for an older vintage that reeks, tastes and acts as only nebbiolo can be. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2024

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Santo Stefano Albesani 2009, Neive

Badly oxidized and fallen off the cliff. Hopefully there are better bottles of ’09 out there.  Tasted January 2024

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2009, Neive

Quietly mature and in a lovely state of nebbiolo being, cautiously complex, gently stirring emotion, a reserved and demure Barbaresco that only wishes calm and comfort. While aromas are a whisper and flavours are tacitly generous it is the unspoken in this Basarin that turns up the volume. Hard to find better in low and slow development with lingering tannin than what this 2009 by Adriano Marco e Vittorio has accomplished. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2024

Sarotto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2009, Neive

Fine aging, proper advancement, pretty much expectation met for a 14-15 year-old Barbaresco as Riserva. That said this would have been and very much still is a wine of much barrel, now all about resins and splinters with fruit faded well to black. Curious as an older wine though past the point of joy.  Tasted January 2024

Good to go!

godello

Barbaresco 2021

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WineAlign

Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Chianti Classico Collection, Stazione Leopolda

Composing a year-end, these are the most thrillin’ wines tasted in the last 12 months list is kinda akin to scribbling up a little warble, if you get the director’s drift. The question begs, what’s the cause, what’s the meaning and ultimately why bother? Reminiscences are part of the human condition and while there is little amusement however in watching a wine critic taste wines, there just may be some interest in reading said list, checking it twice and coming to a personal conclusion as to which choices are worthy, and which are merely nice.

Related – Twenty-two mind-blowing wines of 2022

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

You will find a notable cadent shift in this year’s melody away from there being a substantial number of older wines chosen as having been the year’s most exciting. Not to mention a concentration of certain grapes and their OG places. It’s just, well, natural. For 2023 more of the choices are directed towards hopelessly romantic youthful wines in their extant moments still years away from entering their right proper drinking windows. No shortage of opportunities in 2023 to taste top examples – Of sangiovese, nebbiolo, nerello mascalese, nero d’avola, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, grenache, syrah, chardonnay, riesling, assyrtiko and chenin blanc – Are but a range within the lion’s share of varietal moments.

Related – Twenty-one mind-blowing wines of 2021

Sicilia en Primeur

Old wines can elicit epiphanies but a conscious effort is made to include as many current vintages as possible, provided they represent a winery’s best of the best. This is the state of winemaking today because deeper understanding, the consummate use of technology and a passionate willingness to always improve are qualifying so many of the world’s finest wines at poll positions to a greater degree than before. There is little surprise that Italian wines coexist in highest favour if only because the author spends more than 25 percent of a 365-day timeframe in that country. Italy’s long, deep and intimate relationship with success is a serious attraction and so being afforded the opportunity to taste 2,000 Italian wines in a calendar year will almost certainly result in experiencing no less than 50 thrilling examples. A Bordeaux trip in September to 25 growth properties could and should rightly deliver wines to dot this list. Same could be said for many other palate awakening wine regions worldwide. All this and yet overall travels and tastings were less diverse and more focused in 2023. The author is known to follow the work.

Related – Twenty mind-blowing wines of 2020

L’Etna, Sicily

Act one: Nebbiolo Prima. Act two: Two weeks later, the Chianti Classico Collection. Act three: Three months later, Sicilia en Primeur and a Canadian Sommelier boot camp with Chianti Classico. Act four: Summer in Paris with Lambrusco, judging at the Nationals in the Okanagan Valley for WineAlign, shooting video in Florence, up to Collio and Hungary and finally 113 degrees in the smoky shade of Washington. Act five: Europe all fall, from Bordeaux to Monferrato, Chianti Classico to Montalcino, Piedmontazine Alta Langa and back to Chianti Classico. These decisions are not taken lightly, nor are they apocryphal fabrications, but they are Godello’s 23 mind-blowing wines of 2023.

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW 2020, West Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes

Upper echelon aromatic stage presence, stoic and static as riesling must be if it wants to set a gold standard. Dry entry that sides and morphs into natural sweetness of peach and Forelle pear, almost lime cotton candy scented. From the original vineyard planted in 1976 closer to the lake where tender varieties excel. The elastic extension and tension together coexist as long as Seneca runs from the snow belt to Watkins Glen. Drink 2023-2030.  Tasted April 2023

Vineyards of the Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted July 2023

Related – Nineteen mind-blowing wines of 2019

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee Des Vignerons 2021, PDO Santorini, Greece

Of course 100 per cent assyrtiko, picked and collected between six and eight AM, straight into the press, stainless steel vinified, no cooling, no passing go, no collecting 200 drachmas. All about preserving essential freshness, finesse and elegance. Spontaneous fermentation, a year on lees, in bottle six months. It is right here where we are to understand why Yiannis Valambous gave up a life 14 years ago that was not focused on Santorini, chose to return and altered his history. Santorini once a place of summers spent without purpose or tension is now all encompassing, focused on assyrtiko and for good reason. It is the variety to which all white grapes now aspire. Gramina sheds distraction and focuses on purity and 2021 is a great vintage. It celebrates assyrtiko from where it thrives and conveys that all important message of place. After tasting the Vassaltis Cuvée Des Vignerons 2021 winemakers around the world will ask their farmers to plant the grape in the place where they are. They will do so because even a fraction of this excellence will be worth pursuing. Drink 2023-2033.  Tasted February 2023

 

Ulmo Chardonnay

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted May 2023

Related – Eighteen mind-blowing wines of 2018

With Sarah Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA, Yakima Valley, Washington

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted August 2023

J.B. Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted August 2023

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard 2008, Napa Valley, California

As Trailside Vineyard from Heitz will always do, is it the acid that is preserved. This was the case in both the ’06 and the ’07 but back in 2008 the aromatics were expressed in extra level florals, savoury elements and a charming layering of swarthiness. Five years of bottle aging before release plus nine more since have gathered the necessary elements and when you nose but then taste this wine you just know that it is Heitz, by style and out of a context that speaks to what the vineyard is want and purposed to say. Fine position, time and place right here, right now, ready, willing, able to please and without any moment of equivocation. Might just stay this way for another five, perhaps even ten years. Drink 2023-2031.  Tasted October 2023

Related – Seventeen mind-blowing wines of 2017

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Napa Valley, California

Opened after a near 20-year stay in the cellar and just a few days after tasting the 2010 and 2020 with Beth Weber Novak in Toronto. The vintage has not been considered as one to hold as long as either 2001 or 2003 but there can be no questioning this 2002’s longevity on this very day. Inventiveness without reinvention because this scents as fresh as it must have been at the essence of its very nascence. All that can be crushed to express in aromas for which imagination conjures berries, stones, clay and flowers. Spottswoode ’02 defines a Napa Vally posit tug between power and grace while existing in a controlled state of confidence and calm. A wine that gently, privately seduces the palate, body and mind into the gentlest slumber of our lives. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted October 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted May 202

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020, Sicily, Italy

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038.  Tasted May 2023

Il Poggio, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037.  Tasted February and May 2023

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2009, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy

Colonia Vineyard is a short jog up the hill past Rancia and through the woods. In 1966 Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the “tufa” hills of his Fèlsina estate. It was small, built of stone and with a wide brick vault. It was a start. In 1967 he chose to plant Colonia in an impossibly challenging and extreme Alberese limestone rocky location. He used dynamite because that was the thing at the time but it was soon outlawed and made clearing the land near impossible. Twenty-four years later Giovanni Poggiali resumed the project and planted its first vines in 1993, just before Domenico passed away. Colonia 2009 is La Prima, the first Gran Selezione and this look back is one to recall roots (tethered to 2006), familial traditions and passing of the Chianti Classico torch. This vintage separates and leaves its original designations in the rear-view mirror. At 14 years of age it remains austere but austere can be beautiful. As here, with severe and chiseled features though the savoury elements differ from Rancia. More resinous evergreen and forested aromas but also a chalkiness that speaks directly out of the Alberese. The thing is Colonia remains still young and fresh, while the powdered mineral persists unresolved. One of the most fascinating retrospective looks at aged Chianti Classico. Drink 2023-2036.  Tasted October 2023

Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana IGT

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious.  Last tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2021, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Paolo’s first tasting of this finished 2021 Cepparello since bottling back in May is this right here. The frost vintage, namely on April 7th, with secondary buds on the Cordone vines being the source of most of the wine’s fruit. Not a disaster at Isole e Olena, maybe 35 percent loss in total but the quality was high and so less Chianti Classico was made. “That wine is less about the vintage for us,” says de Marchi and so this as the decision made to cope with the small crop. Once again (and since forever) Paolo employs the aromas and proteins inducing method of soft maceration, long délestage and skins connected back with already half fermented juice. The ’21 is a wine of “frescezza” and yet saying freshness does not do the description justice. There is tension and a nervous energy buzzing from Cepparello 2021 and one to really hold your attention. There may be no Italian word for texture but were there one that made any real sense it might be the dramatic threads of “weft” from this 2021 youthful work in progress. This will be a Cepparello for the ages, Buy it and bank on it. Drink 2026-2040.  Tasted December 2023

Related – 15 Mind blowing wines of 2015

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted November 2023

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040.  Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988, Tuscany, Italy

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2023

Related – Mind blowing wines of 2014

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017, Barbaresco, Piedmont

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039.  Tasted January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Château Troplong-Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

First vintage where the malolactic fermentation was done 100 percent in tank before being racked to barrel. Some simultaneous spontaneity overlapping with alcoholic fermentation but more often than that there will be control to have them happen one after the other. The fact that 35 percent of the vineyards at the top of the hill are filled with the hardest clay anywhere in Bordeaux, coupled with limestone all over creates the most mineral quotient around. This transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019 but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. Whether you are familiar with, an expert on or just arriving at a Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classé for the first time – it just doesn’t matter. This 2019 will blow your mind. Drink 2025-2039.  Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France

Extremely different vintage but not like ’17, here with much darker, riper and developed fruit. Freshness would have to have been a challenge but at 13.5 percent alcohol and high pH there comes this ulterior freshness with texture imposed by great and forceful will. More active infusion earlier on because there was so much colour and extraction on hand from a vintage where the blend was nearly the same as that of 2017. That being 38 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (27) merlot. There really is no other chateau that creates this style, a mix of salt and pepper seasoning over blue to black fruit and in 2018 the whole bunch inclusion was 60 percent. If you are buying high end Bordeaux from 2018 then Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the place to be, though it’s likely sold out wherever you may live. Just about nothing else in the Left Bank finds this level of quality, balance and success. The whole bunch “infusion” methodology controls the heat and excess of the vintage to deliver finesse, precision, restraint and honesty. Drink 2025-2038.  Tasted September 2023

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Nebbiolo Previews: Barbaresco DOCG 2020 and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

What’s in a vintage? If we are talking about 2020 Barbaresco there is so much to say because these are a group of nebbiolo that meet at the crossroads of variability, complexity, multiplicity and whimsy. At their finest the ’20s are a textural bunch, suave and sensorial because of high levels of glycerol and unctuousness. If there is density it’s of an elastic, chewy, often leathery and pliable kind. Many examples reach levels that heighten awareness and elicit deeper understanding of what it means to be Barbaresco. The best are the sort that exhibit experience, acumen, stage presence and when appropriate, also ambition. Top end Barbaresco are varietal distillate expressions of cru, soil, vintage and maker. Wines that finish with dignified tannins, often sweet ones that carry forward from nearly identical vintage acidities. Anyone will tell you that nebbiolo of this world are marked from the get-out, before they are bottled. Not all the 2020 Barbaresco can be credited as being exceptional but there are many worthy of kind and even reverential praise.

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

While it is said that as a rule the wines of Barbaresco drink earlier than those of Barolo, the fact of the matter is they are bottled earlier and a more recent vintage is presented at each anteprima. It must also be explained that Barolo’s tannins are never sneaky, more like in your face but those from Barbaresco can lurk beneath the surface, pounce when you least expect them and in some cases create nebbiolo of longevity that rival Barolo. This is one of the fascinations about Barbaresco, especially when tasted blind and young, because a taster is made to concentrate, focus and try to determine if there may just be wily structure laid in hiding inside the fortifications of a wine. Barbaresco is so often a crafty and cunning example of nebbiolo worthy of decades of time in the cellar.

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Barbaresco is so many things. A village, commune and also a set of wines made from nebbiolo grown on the right bank of the Tanaro River, southeast of Alba. The eponymous village is joined by three others, they being Neive and Treiso, plus San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, an outlying district of Alba. In geological terms, the Barbaresco wine growing area is approximately 23 to 5.3 million years old, belonging to the Miocene Epoch of the Tertiary Period. A drone’s view might say the area resembles a horse’s head, or more appropriately a cluster of nebbiolo grapes. In 2020 vine space increased to 783 hectares and for the first time production exceeded five million bottles (5,128,920).

If seeking Barbaresco cru from 2020 with a plan to hold and then drink well five through 15 years forward is the intended search, well then this Grand Crus like Asili, Rabajà and Martinenga will fulfil those hopes and dreams

There can often be depth to nebbiolo of no particular cru affiliation, a.k.a nessuna menzione but also those composed of fruit taken off of several vineyard sources, or what are called più comuni. The communes of Neive, Barbaresco, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio each produce different styles of nebbiolo but one thing is certain. Barbaresco wines as a whole are more identifiable than those from Barolo, mainly because the hectarage and diversity of soils are much smaller by comparison. Barbaresco are not younger siblings and while they are cousins they are the cool, hip, intriguing ones full of interest, fantasy and meaning. As for the crus (referred to in the Langhe as menzione), yes there are in fact those considered Grand. The ridge that includes Asili, Rabajà and Martinenga receive the greatest respect. These sites along with Neive’s Santo Stefano and Treiso’s Pajorè are considered the finest vineyards anywhere in the the entirety of the Barbaresco DOCG. For Barbaresco commune the top menzioni have been classified as Pajè, Pora, Asili, Martinenga, Montefico, Montestefano, Muncagota, Rabajà, Rio Sordo, Roncagliette and Secondine. Then there are Albesani, Basarin, Currá, Cottá, Gallina, Santo Stefano and Serraboella from Neive. Out of Treiso the higher mentions have been Bernardot, Bricco di Treiso, Pajorè, Rombone and Vallegrande. For San Rocco Seno d’Elvio; Meruzzano, Montersino, Rizzi (all these are shared with Treiso) and Rocche Massalupo.

Barbaresco and the Langhe

This 27th edition of Nebbiolo Prima took place in Alba back in January of 2023, with thanks to Albeisa and the organization’s President Marina Marcarino, along with Anna Barbon and Linda Foltran of AB Comunicazione. These 2020 Barbarescos are now showing up in the Canadian market and will continue to do so through the early months of 2024. Once again a reminder that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons and so consider this report as a relevant snapshot of those that did. These 77 tasting notes, which include some older vintages poured that week, tell a vintage story, or at least Godello’s interpretation of it.

Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Alba

Masseria Di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Montersino 2020

Surely top of the pops and tip of the pips ripe fruit, some dry to leathery plum and cedar noes, a mature perfume all in all. Rescued by quality acids and a silky texture. Easy access all the way through with dignified tannins. Early drinking 2020 is the call, perhaps a factor of Montesino’s particular Alba exposure. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Adriano Marco E Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Reticent, compact, a bit hard to get. Also some proper nebbiolo volatility straight away. Surprising considering the villages-level cuvée though there is a good chance the fruit source is primarily from one block in a cru. A bit boozy feeling as well and then a repeat on the palate of what the aromas originally dictated. That being taut, weighty and non-disclosed agreements. There is depth to this nebbiolo of nessuna menzione and a year or so will likely release what’s base, right and necessary. Drink 2024-2026.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Rizzi 2020

Good brightness and specificity of place through quick-ish reveal, that being Rizzi from the commune of Alba and a nebbiolo that scents as one would 100 per cent expect. Rose petals, sweetly perfumed, almost candied and expressive, surprisingly early it should be noted. Full and generous palate, tons of fruit without fail or need of hasty retreat, therefore lingering and satisfying. Tannins are sweet as well, acids too. Fine wine though not for long term aging. Drink 2023-2027.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Barbaresco

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2020

A bit more seriousness here from nebbiolo out of the Asili cru in the commune of Barbaresco. Far from draughty in fact this is a closed, hermetic and locked in environment where the perfumes and volatile compounds swirl in centrifuge. A wine of equally formidable and important structure, tannins persistent, semi-austere and very much in charge of the show. If seeking Barbaresco cru from 2020 with a plan to hold and then drink well five through 15 years forward is the intended search, well then this Asili will fulfil those hopes and dreams. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco Cavanna 2020

From Cavanna in the commune of Barbaresco and a lithe nebbiolo, quite tisane styled aromas, from Ceylon to Rooibos, in other words also equipped with the kind of tannins that feel seeped as opposed to buffering. An easy and rustic example to be fair, traditional yet accessible, one that won’t solicit suffering and ready as early as you choose. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2020

Faset delivers a higher tonality, not necessarily a brighter iteration but instead the kind of aromatic profile that heightens awareness and also sensation. Move quickly into the textural and structural parts and there is more of the same elevated feels, of unctuousness and glycerol, silky liquidity and organza layering. Here drinks a fine, moving and vintage appropriate nebbiolo, finely tannic, never dense or weighty, always on the upswing. Would wait a couple of years to see the grains melt further and really tie the room together. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2020

Different sort of aromatic profile here from Faset in Barbaresco, an almost gummy to plum-stick profile from start to finish. There is this disparate feeling ascertained, from sweet aromatics through to grainy tannins and a tacky profile in between. Nothing totally wrong and yet nothing quite right. Dries out at the finish and those tannins are all that remain. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Chiarlo Michele Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2020

Strong mocker aromas straight off the dense top of this Faset Barbaresco, fulsome, cumbersome and like a heavy cloud looming overhead. Quite a macerated plum note, not sweetly cloying but rather savoury, heady and weighty. Serious wine fully pressed, extracted and pulled from itself, dragging all the weight of the world while it carries this magnitude of fruit and tannin. Seems to seek the modern but can’t help bring all the rusticity and traditional ways along for the ride. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Tenute Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco DOCG Martinenga 2020

Perfectly, beautifully and candidly simple but lithe, ripe, really elegant nebbiolo. Perfumes are intoxicants. Well-rounded and surprisingly easy to access. Drink 2024-2029.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cascina Morassino Di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Reductive as can be with seriously austere tannins and and nearly inaccessible as any Barbaresco 2020 you are likely to encounter. Just a wall of tannin with angular and angry notes, clearly built to age but even the micro-oxygenation of time in bottle under cork won’t happen fast enough. Not before what little fruit there is dies off well ahead of intended schedule. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Carlo Di Giacosa Mariagrazia Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Classic and traditional, sweetly rustic and old-school nebbiolo with no real invitation to specificity of place. A cuvée that speaks to a half century of making Barbaresco from these hills by combing fruit from several blocks to speak in a broad local vernacular. Austerity and demand of tannins are just what to expect and a long life where dried herbs, green notes and waning fruit will always be the way.  Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Carlo Di Giacosa Mariagrazia Barbaresco DOCG Montefico 2020

Full attack from a well-grounded cuvée that speaks in modern terms though not without well-pressed fruit dragging all the acids, tannins, elements and minerals along for the ride. A serious chemical compound of complexities await in a nebbiolo of no particularly focused origin. At one crunchy, like trying to bite through stones and then chewy, leathery textures, of liquorice and animal hides. Tannins build and build. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG Bric Balin 2020

Über cherry nebbiolo, suave yet tannic, inviting but admittedly intense. High tonality with some swarthiness though not overt and full fruit glycerin slide across the palate. A Barbaresco of density if the kind that is elastic, snapping back without too much recoil by force. Solid wine, mid to longer aging potential and a truly good example of the vintage. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Gone for broke, ripe to the nth degree nebbiolo, pressed and excited to show what it’s got. A Barbaresco villages appellative wine, almost a syrupy swirl of perfume, of plums and black cherries, evergreen and mint. Some varnish as well so you can really feel the skin-contact macerate juices swelling and then come the tannins, marching in, connected on a chain, one by one. Barbaresco of command, on the move, attack mode, restless and ruthless. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Morassino di Bianco Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2020

A pinpointed Barbaresco with fruit selected from the Ovello cru, taut and closed nose, of strong grip and while this youthful it is yet to relent. One taste and you know this is a serious glass of nebbiolo because the integration or rather the seamlessness of fruit and structure is so readily apparent. Strong tannic presence yet one that lifts, supports and holds up the whole so that it may walk a fine linear path and that should last for a decade or more. Impressive wine, far too youthful to fully appreciate but the beauty lays ahead. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Fine Nebbiolo swirl of perfumed floral fruit here from the Pora MGA, surely indicative of vintage from which attempting less will ultimately add to more. Hard not to imagine 2020 as sharing some affinity with 2000, misunderstood in youth and then exhibiting greatness 10-plus years into its tenure. This just strikes as one of those wines, chewy enough of texture while perfectly taut and elastic, bending but never breaking. Would really like to see this wine in 10 years time. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Really light and effusive 2020 Nebbiolo, fine floral scents, white roses in a way and a mildly tart push of raspberry. Pretty and elegant wine at first but their is a silkiness to the mouthfeel, albeit once again on the faint and lithe side of Barbaresco. There are tannins however and a notable cask component. It’s a tricky wine, sneaky even and may flesh out to bigger surprises down the road. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Musso di Musso Emanuele Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Curious if enticing nose of nebbiolo, spiced to the nines with the wood playing an integral part of development. From the Rio Sordo cru in Barbaresco commune and the more you nose this 2020 the more you will receive. Plenty off fleshy berry to plum fruit and more spice, if also spiciness that really directs the way this drinks. A modern wine with more than ample tannins. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG 2020

A fulsome nebbiolo is all respects from Roncaglie in Barbaresco, open and ready to be expressive of a vintage that may be on the lighter side but shows no lack of typically deduced tradition. Would never go so far as to call this a modern nebbiolo but it surely would like to announce its arrival in the olfactory and also on your palate. So much to go on with a nebbiolo of this ilk and structurally speaking the first four to six years will be the best. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Full attack if somewhat closed and unforgiving in Barbaresco indicative of the Ronchi cru. An aromatic front of more breadth than most out of 2020 with well-pressed and macerated fruit, a gentle swarthiness and then more acidity and tannin above all else aboard the weighty palate. The fruit is a party in the front while the tannins are long-haired and wispy in the back. Out of fashion nebbiolo, earthy and rustic despite all that up front fruit. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Neive

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Albesani 2020

Darker than most as far as 2020 nebbiolo go, a concern of place which is Albesani cru in Neive and the decision to press form success. Boozy nose it feels, yet elemental too, like smelling metal filaments, magnesium and iron mainly. Perhaps a ferric soil, redder earth than some other hills and so the wine is an expression of place after all. Quality Barbaresco in any case, balanced and truthful, exacting as needs to be from the location it was born. Kudos for that and with tannins in effect though never overbearing in any shape or form. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Neive Barbaresco DOCG Vigna Santo Stefano Albesani 2020

The second of two Albesani cru nebbioli is nearly an exact copy of the first, dark of fruit though here in black cherry that is really quite an obvious aromatic fruit expression. Smoother and silkier than its counterpart yet with much higher acidity and not quite as suave tannin. More energy and drive this time while less elegance defining the character of the wine. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2020

Wealth of constituent parts emit with haste, gregariousness and also attentive demand from this Basarin. ’Tis a wine that stands and opens up to be heard but also paid immediate attention. Carries some volatility in its voice and while there is fruit but also tension there may be no getting rid of that high and mighty tonality. Plenty of herbal earthiness, strong bones and drying at the finish. Drink 2025-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco DOCG Vecchie Viti Basarin 2020

Lighter style or perhaps a hands-off, naturally leaning, let it ride approach by a winemaker wishing to seek purity, honesty and cru definability. This from Basarin is beautifully elegant and proper nebbiolo that should never be referred to as “light.” The aromatics are equally handsome while the wine flexes muscles and is yet nimble, agile and sleek. A fine specimen in all regards with a knowable and confident glide. Complex and characterful without needing to attract attention. Lovely wine. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2020

Nebbiolo from Bordini cru is hard and brittle, tannins that is with simple fruit that will never keep up with the demand. Already drying out as we taste and speak about the prospects. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023.

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG 2020 Canova

Intensity of acidity and tannin supersede the fruit in this Canova cru nebbiolo. Earthy and dry though there is some charm. Tart and really compact so give it three to four years. Perhaps it will open like a flower. Perhaps not. Drink 2026-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Saria Di Abbruzzo Francesco Barbaresco DOCG Colle Del Gelso Canova 2020

Early earthy, volatile and syrupy from the aromatics all glycerin inflected with soy, wood and baking spice. Hard tannins and a wave off vanilla mark this wine of barrel and more barrel. Drink 2024-2026.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Cotta’ 2020

The cru Cottà delivers a fine and typical Nebbiolo from 2020 with fruity aromas and good vocal acidity. Chewy red fruit in tart raspberry meets somewhat dusty plum make this getable yet not overly excitable. A crunchy mineral example that is notably tannic but five years should solve all issues and see this drink with Barbaresco excellence. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Taverna Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Senteùndes Cotta’ 2020

Quite up front, gone for it nebbiolo, fruit spent before it’s even entered the glass and tannins hard, brittle, not so very inviting. Notable presence of Brettanomyces. Aromas and flavours are all wood.  Tasted January 2023

Roberto Sarotto di Cavallotto Aurora Barbaresco DOCG Gaia Principe 2020

So much of everything off the top, fruit, glycerin and tannin coming from all directions. This is a nebiolo predicated on elévage that much is abundantly clear with a wave of vanilla that speaks louder than varietal words or the Gaia Principe location. Needs time and there is some fleshy-pulpy substance to see this Neive commune nebbiolo gain some status. Drink 2026-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Negro Giuseppe di Negro Piergiorgio Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2020

Fine lines define this linear and upright Gallina cru nebbiolo of all parts registered to play a significant role through a long life of development. Plenty of fruit substance will hold well while the structure abates and abides as it manages a pact with the aforementioned fruit. Really solid Neive Barbaresco that will gain traction slowly and surely over ten years time. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2020

Some formaggi on the nose of this nebbiolo and a strong tannic presence for a Gallina that’s not showing much love in these beginning stages. Lots of acidity and intensity but really quite rustic and this will not change. Time is the matter and there may just be some beauty behind the brawn Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Cascina Crosa 2020

Fruity, elegant and simple though as always there is a string of strong tannins matched by a tonic and bitter presence. Dusty and earthy nebbiolo, nothing truly specified in terms of cru or location and carrying the overall feel of a traditional wine. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

High-toned, of red fruit and notable tang, somewhat sour gummy and though it looks to be light there is a strong presence of barrel on this nebbiolo. Tannins creep up quite quickly and though they are demanding there is an accord struck in a composite to complimentary village level way. Quite a solid Neive example. Drink 2024-2028.  Barrel sample tasted January 2023

Cordara Ornella Barbaresco DOCG Tufo Blù 2020

Reductive and also acetic, with capers and dill, wood spice and hopeful red berry fruit. Liquid chalky and tannic but the minor faults add up to major distraction. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Taverna Roberto Barbaresco DOCG Duicrü 2020

Major amount of shoe polish and strange varnish notes indicate a problematic wine. Hopefully just this bottle but there is not much recourse in a blind tasting. Drink 2024.  Tasted January 2023

Pietro Rinaldi Barbaresco DOCG San Cristoforo 2020

Acetic and reductive off the top, not egregiously so but these elements are there. More of the latter so giving this nebbiolo a fair agitate swirl to reveal some quality fruit behind the swarthy veil. Dark black cherry and the stone, a definite mineral presence and hard tannins come up the rear for this cru example out of Neive’s San Cristoforo. Tough and gritty wine needing time, a whole lot of precious time. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Bricco San Giuliano 2020

From San Giuliano in Neive and a nebbiolo of darker red fruit though quite effusive to nose. Good aromatic profile from which violets and also blue fruits join the mix. These are quality tannins as well as acidity which is well matched to the overall profile. Will benefit from a year or so in bottle to soften the edges, integrate the oxygenating cask workings and bring all the parts together. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

More than enticing Serraboella aromatics emit and grab attention for a nebbiolo that’s worth knowing. Glycerin all the way through though never drifting into sap, resin or syrup. All three in faint hints are fine and their mentions are in this Neive’s character but yes, subtlety is the name of the game. A fine floral addendum and then proper mouthfeel while tannins are stronger than might have been anticipated. A most commanding wine with stage presence and a great idea of what it desires but also choose to become. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

Some reductive and stemmy behaviour. Lively and lovely Serraboella aromatics fly out of the glass from this nebbiolo to create great anticipation for what else is to come. Seems and feels like a wine of experience, acumen and proper ambition. Just what the doctor orders in healthy, clean living by fruit that’s been raised in all the right ways. Pure varietal distillate that expresses cru, soil, vintage and maker with equal, four part-symbiotic stability and equal footing for all. Top, top Barbaresco for the vintage. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted January 2023

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2020

Quite classic, rustic earthy and yet vintage fruity so in the end we’d expect this to land somewhere in between. Tart red fruit and fine acidity – a lighting strike kind of nebbiolo that should indicate lighter white or grey clay and fine sandy quality of soil. High in mineral as well. Starderi? Really tight and compact wine, far from generous and some might see it as tenebrous. Seems proper and honest from this point of view. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Treiso

Cantina del Nebbiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Stems and a volatility define the first impression for a Barbaresco that draws fruit from at least two communes. Somewhat simple and rounded with the least demanding tannins around. Think of nebbiolo and while it qualifies as Barbaresco the wine should be consumed in its first two years. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Masseria di Delmonte Pierina Barbaresco DOCG Mon Sertù 2020

From a few commune’s fruit and a well rounded nebbiolo at that with stuffing in a most generous sort of way. Some sap and glycerin though not overt and all is manageable for quality consumption. Does well to speak on behalf of Barbaresco with distinction if not a pinpointed sense of a particular block or cru. Which is fine when a wine does everything well. Represents as a great intro to the appellation and the vintage. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2020

Slightly jammy and also acetic notes, some reduction as well in a broadly accumulated, rendered and interpreted nebbiolo for Barbaresco. Tart and full of tang, drying out already and needing some air. Hard tannins make this somewhat problematic. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Molino Barbaresco DOCG Ausario 2020

Ausario as a cru seems to be a place of solar accumulation as noted by the massive fruit substance emanating from this full on nebbiolo. So much up front but also a liquid chalkiness and definite vanilla swirl by wood with the intention to create a structure wine. A bit too much of these things I’m afraid yet time will see good integration and when the wine settles in it will drink well indeed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Casot 2020

Casot delivers fine goods in 2020 from its Treiso cru with a nebbiolo in fine form and especially fashion. The trilogy and trinity of fruit, acid and tannin get on the same page, linear of design, one following the other and then returning back to begin the process over again. Seems to do this on repeat several times before retiring so not only are the parts full of character but their familiarity with one another breeds consistency and length. Fine Casot from a Casot vintage indeed. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Alberta Barbaresco DOCG Giacone 2020

An upfront, centred and look at me Giacone full of fruit and more fruit. Carries on with Treiso familiarity and quality to deliver a Barbaresco of the times, heady and high-toned. Lots to go on here and tannins quite grippy but there is always some brightness and airiness to this nebbiolo. Crafty if older schooled but that luminosity is quite something. Hard to believe considering the structure of the wine. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2020

Marcarini cru brings some baritone to nebbiolo for 2020 and this example expresses the depths of its varietal fruit. Chewy liquorice is indicative of the tannins involved but the fruit keeps pace. Nothing limpid or softy about this one at all in fact it’s grip is both admired and feared. Chewy and it would be hard not to see the great probability for longevity out of this formidable Nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2020

The second of two Marcarini shares some affinities with the first but they are far from the same wine. This time the combination of swarthiness and swaying texture are at the fore. Definitely not the formidable brood of its counterpart though it does share in the other’s chewy fruit thickened on the palate. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco DOCG Nervo 2020

Nervo delivers a lighter style of nebbiolo for Treiso out of a variable 2020 vintage. That is aromatically speaking and yet the palate is very much a matter of glycerol fruit. Thickens with pectin and therefore both sweetens and fleshes as it airs to receive equally sweet acids and then tannin in the end. There is a bit of vanilla and wood derived elements that distract but overall the quality inherent in this Nervo is impressive. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted January 2023

Molino Barbaresco DOCG Teorema 2020

Basic Treiso nebbiolo without cru affiliation brings accessibility and what we call drink-ability without strings attached. Sweet fruit, raspberry and cherry, good quality tannins and brightness of acidity. A Barbaresco to drink soon and in a the most amenable of ways for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG Rocche Dei 7 Fratelli 2020

Somewhat reductive and so a bit unclear as to where this will go though some beauty is noted on this nebbiolo’s immediate horizon. That and notably grippy tannins so as far as Barbaresco is concerned there must be food involved to truly enjoy this wine. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Bosio Family Estates Belcolle Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

Light and effusive Pajorè with plenty of pre-introduced oxygenation to make this an open, airy and knowable nebbiolo that surely does well to represent the vintage. A Treiso Barbaresco of quality raised by acumen and on promises for a long and prosperous life. Fine liquidity and stage presence, confidence and what is necessary for grape and place. Tannins are quite fine as well to equip this wine with what in needed, wanted and expected. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

Consistently Pajorè in that the upront fruit is the sort of purity and existential lightness though this iteration is a bit more pressed and of a depth as compared to some counterparts. Results in moCascina Vano di Rivetti re flesh and substantial palate presence but also an increase in tannic pressure. More ambition here with cask aging and spices running amok distracts from the purity though the wine is still really quite impressive. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Elisa Rombone 2020

The first of two from Rombone cru is somewhat reductive and though there is some acetic presence it’s far from over the top. Tart and intense nebbiolo for sure, cool of mint and evergreen. Savoury wine which speaks to the acetic nature though it feels like a coming together will happen and lower the glare. Time will be this nebbiolo’s friend. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2020

The second of two from Rombone is the lighter and less aggressive with higher and airy tonality which speaks to this Treiso cru’s DNA. While the other is expressed in a slight acetic way this does not and in fact a settling already seems to have occurred. Liking the parochial nature and the way it just seems so comfortable in its own skin. No lack of intensity here and longevity will surely be probable. Drink 2024-2031.  Tasted January 2023

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Valeriano 2020

Soupy or stewed character while also a bit thin and dilute. Quite a simple nebbiolo. Tasted January 2023

Grasso Fratelli Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2020

Fine nebbiolo here from Villagrande with all the fruit and structure up front and no real skeletal backbone to hold up for long. Enjoy this early while so many others take there time to flesh and settle. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Ca’ Del Baio di Grasso Giulio Barbaresco DOCG Vallegrande 2020

As for this second of two Vallegrande there is more compaction and tannin mixed with fruit from the very beginning. Also a thickening and a pectin influence to give a strawberry and raspberry confection though one with plenty of savour in the mix. Chalky as well, a lactic feeling and then those tannins of great grip and drying force. This nebbiolo needs years of time to resolve. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2018

Manera Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rizzi 2018

Indicative of vintage, hot and steamy, a now drying nebbiolo of Rizzi origin so very intense on the nose. Quite mature and evolving with great haste. Sappy and to say this offers effusive enjoyment would be the opposite of what’s really going on. Hard times. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted January 2023

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Martinenga 2018

Fine nebbiolo aromatics from ’18 Riserva with thanks to Martinegra and a wine that was shown some restraint throughout its early voracious appetitive exercise. Strong tannic presence no doubt while the fruit source turns into ever-fleshing substance. Chewy on the palate and really persistent so ultimately this represents a fine Riserva and likely one of the finer examples to come out of 2018. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Socré Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Roncaglie 2018

From the cru of Roncaglie and a nebbiolo as Barbaresco, from Barbaresco with as many issues as it displays beauty because the lactic tang is equal to the fulsome fruit. A thick and swarthy example that’s both traditional (well, actually antediluvian) and naturally avant-garde at the same time. My goodness what a mess and clash of personalities. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Albesani 2018

High fruit concentration and substantial nebbiolo so apposite to the other ’18 Riservas in this flight and clearly happy to be this way. Carries enough weight and tannin to not only impress but allow the wine to drink well over the coming five too eight years time. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted January 2023

Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin Vigna Gianmate’ 2018

Still a touch reductive and restrained with unyielding tannin in a nebbiolo that will require another two or three years to drink as it was surely intended to do. Plenty of flesh hangs on these bones so expect Basarin to win in the end. Serious wine, surely a matter of heat by vintage but there will be comfort before too long. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Punset di Marcarino Marina & C. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG San Cristoforo Campo Quadro 2018

Lightest, most transparent and glaringly beautiful of the Barbaresco Riserva with a maturing quality at this stage. Sweetly lactic note, fruit of the brighest reds while settling in because tannins are drying yet of nary a moment that might be considered austere or abrasive. Seriously well made, vintage indicative and in the end, drink up. Drink 2023-2025.   Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2019

The western cru close to Neive village, exposition to the west, from the lower section at 350m. Planted 15 years ago with the intention to make classic “Villages” Barbaresco but the fruit from 2016 changed the family’s perspective. That vintage was the first cru label and here from the fourth consecutive the refinement time is 24 months in grandi botti, part Slovenian and part Austrian oak. Tannic to be sure yet not quite what you’d call austere. Greatly structured wine and still far from readiness. “That’s the young baby we’re talking about,” says Riccardo. “It’s the cru that surprises me.” Great aromatic presence and fine chalky liquidity running through. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Vano di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco DOCG 2019 Canova

“Traditional” vinification for this Neive nebbiolo and put to Grandi Botti (300L size) for two years. Very traditional Barbaresco, quietly aromatic of pretty perfume and in 2019 a lovely, elegant wine. Proof that Vano’s needs an extra year to settle its harder parts and while ’19 remains or persists as tannic they are strong and elastic ones that will continue to effect a positive stance on this Canova. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Culasso Piercarlo Barbaresco DOCG Faset Duesoli 2019

Warmer of Faset’s two parcels on its western flank, southeast exposure at the hill’s base. Top notch red fruit with a unique game swarthiness and so much personality swelling into complexity. Nothing shy or demure here and clearly a vintage that sweats out the eccentricities of Duesoli. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cerrino is found in Trezzo Tinella close to Treiso which is the commune for this nebbiolo’s fruit. More specifically Meruzzano though the vru won’t show up on the label until the 2021 vintage. From 450m of elevation for a Barbaresdco of somewhat stewed black cherry and stone, balsamic edginess, quality acid and tannin. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2019

A Barbaresco of soft extraction at 24-26 degrees celsius, some cappello sommerso submerged cap workings, “when we feel we can,” says Luca Pasquero Elia. Aways scarico, meaning the unwanted elements are always left behind to result in a transparent nebbiolo without intensity of colour. “We want to keep the integrity of the skins, as much as possible,” to restrict oxygenation and racking is done only when necessary. Goes to bottle “after the second phase of closure.” Paitin in Barbaresco is a matter of objective over style. Serraboella is most always wanting to be expressive but this 2019 actually is, at least aromatically, of bright red fruit but be reminded how converse this is against the quality of tension in the tannins. Not a nebbiolo of glycerin despite the cappello sommerso‘s effects, because of the combination of two things. Reasonable alcohol and wild yeast strains that don’t induce such texture. The elasticity and balance in this ’19 Serraboella are just exemplary and the elegant notes play early, which is kind of unprecedented. Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Cerrino Barbaresco DOCG 2018

From Treiso and what will eventually become a cru (Merazzano) labeled Barbaresco. For now it is a super correct and fine example for nebbiolo and the vintage, 25 day fermentation to coax out a gentility. The season was cooler than 2019 and the resulting wine more balanced, elegant and lovely in its held persistence. Right in the vintage window as we speak. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Cascina Vano Di Rivetti Bruno Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Pilone Nei Rivetti 2016

From heavy clay soil abutting the hill of Serraboella. Big shouldered nebbiolo, broad and muscular, ancient warrior of Barbaresco. Still expressly tannic after all this time, having spent three years in Botti and another in bottle. Traditional though quite fine and needing two more years to integrate. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rabajà 2015

Rabajà faces southwest and this fruit comes right from the heart, only bottled as Riserva. Vines in and around 40 years of age and three years spent in Grandi Botti. Aromatically you intuit glycerin and as a Barbaresco there is clearly more acumen and experience from plants that first gave this wine life out of the 2011 vintage. Tannins are even more compact than Seraboella, trying to expand but they just keep weighing down and won’t fully relent. Layering of red fruit and they are beautiful layers but each one carries tannin of ilk upon ilk. This is Barbaresco of sapidity as a quotient of acids and pH working in cohorts. The palate attack is quite fantastical. Give this another year. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted January 2023

Paitin Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Paitin Serraboella 2013

Plenty of breezes blow through this vineyard that is easier to farm with far less disease pressure than many. Also one of the first to ripen in the whole of Barbaresco. Allows for more maneuverability to create verticality and the winemaking can encourage some of this style – though form and objective are always the most important matters. The 2013 still shows as a linear nebbiolo with tension unabated while the once austere elements are finally subsiding. Yet it is still a baby, a 14 percent Barbaresco built for longe range aging from fruit drawn off of the steepest part on the long ridge of the Serraboella hill. Sandy soils on the southeastern slope with surrounding woods all conspire to create this slow-evolving, cru-designate wine with ample fruit, structure and trenchant abilities. A marker for Neive. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2012

Basarin is home to much older vines, upwards of 65 years-old and is one of the steepest vineyards in Barbaresco. A snake of a vineyard and very challenging to work. South exposure, warm for sure and a soil composition higher in chalk than clay but not too dissimilar to Rabajà. Herbaceous notes come from Basarin and “when I was young, every time I went to the tank I had this feeling,” tells Riccardo Bera. The first vintage out of which the tannins are nearly resolved and yet the fruit persists in near whole and perfect freshness. A nebbiolo in wonderful condition and while the vintage was hot there might have been a different result. This is almost, not quite but nearly ready, as far as optimum or perfect windows are concerned. Liquorice here, a touch of tar and well, “most of this job for us is to start with the best grapes you can. The quality is in the vineyard. A good winemaker can keep the 10. A five you cannot fix.” Ten it is. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Good to go!

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Nebbiolo Prima 2023

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Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

Nebbiolo in Alba, Piemonte

What makes Barolo so special? We know of its great aging potential but how do we taste at an anteprima and decisively determine which will go the distance, while forecasting that others will presumably fail? What are the rules of qualification with so many intangibles involved? Well it begins, as it must, with location. The Langhe, plural form of Langa, a Piedmontese way of saying “a long and low-lying hill.” Reference to an area that lies to the south and east of the Tanaro River in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti. All of the Barolo growing area can described in a knowable and specific way, even if the morphology changes from north to south and west to east. Drawing a diagonal line from the northeast down to the southwest can define the two soil epochs of Barolo; from between Roddi and Grinzane through Castiglione Falletto down through Barolo and to Novello. This line will separate the epochs of soil, the Tortonian from the Serravallian, both of which were formed millions of years ago. The Barolo on either side will not be the same, that much we know to be true, but make no mistake. All nebbiolo raised and produced as Barolo need time in the bottle.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

Related – Barolo DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2016, Riserva 2014, 2006 and Riserva 2004

Try not to discriminate too much between the T and the S, the west and the east. They are all sisters and brothers, kin cut from similar cloth, of shared DNA and are always family. The western Tortonian soils of La Morra and Barolo may be less compact, more fertile and their Barolo needing less time to shed astringencies caused by formidable tannin. As a general rule Serralunga d’Alba, Monforte and Castiglione Falletto might hold more Serravallian cards with terroir that is dense and compressed, causing more structure, higher alcohol and body. In the end Barolo is Barolo. Concentrate more on the subtleties of the classified cru, not to choose the excellence of one over another but to seek understanding in the adjunctive mentions and the wines associated with each locality. Associated to each cru are the producers, of varying pedigrees and successes – here is where we the pursuers uncover the truth and heart of the Barolo matter.

Godello with the Sommeliers of Nebbiolo Prima 2023

Blind tasting adds a whole other dimension, but wines do not lie. Don’t we just feel it – when greatness is in the glass? Taste one, or several hundred examples over the course of just a few days – the learning curve is the same. There is certainty in knowing what it is to be a well-structured nebbiolo. The eponymous Barolo village lends its name though there are eleven (and their environs) that can make nebbiolo carrying the name: The others are La Morra, Monforte, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. These villages and their surrounding kingdoms play collective host to the profoundness of a grape married to place – forever bound, unfettered, undeterred and unbreakable. Nebbiolo and in turn Barolo are encapsulated by the soils, hills, winds and genius loci of the Langhe. Barolo owns the title of “Grand Italian Wine” and for good reason.

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Barolo’s official DOC recognition happened in 1966 and in 1980 the DOCG followed. With each passing vintage the most common talking points and focus of both journalist and sommelier investigations has become individual vineyard names, a.k.a. sorì, cru or Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (MGA).  There are more than 100 officially recognized MGAs in Barolo. At the most recent Nebbiolo Prima 40 journalists from around the world tasted hundreds of Barolo, primarily by way of a sommelier-poured, blind-tasting setting. As it pertains to those daily sessions, the tastings were organized first by village and then cru from each of the 11 villages home to their own famous holdings. Launched in 1996 and in 2010 re-baptized as Nebbiolo Prima, this is the international preview of the new releases of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero.

One of Alba’s most traditional antipasti and must supper at feeding holes is Ristorante Lalibera ~ Carne crudo along with six top Langhe producers and life was Grande!

In La Morra the MGAs include Arborina, Boiolo, Bricco Luciani, Brunate, Capalot, Casa Nere, Castagni, Cerequio, Gattera, Gianchi, La Serra, Marcenasco, Rocche dell’Annunziata, San Giacomo, Serradenari, Silio and Torriglione. Barolo’s are Albarella, Boschetti, Bricco delle Viole, Buon Padre, Cannubi, Castellero, Coste Di Vergne, Fossati, Monrobiolo Di Bussia and Sarmassa. In Castiglione Falletto there are Altenasso, Bricco Boschis, Brunella, Monprivato, Parussi, Pira, Rocche Di Castiglione, Scarrone and Villero. In Serralunga d’Alba the cru include Boscareto, Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia, Briccolina, Broglio, Cerretta, Gabutti, Gianetto, Lazzarito, Marenca, Margheria, Meriame, Ornato, Parafada, Prapò, Sorano and Vignarionda. Monforte d’Alba holds the vineyards of Bricco San Pietro, Bussia, Bussia Dardi Le Rose, Bussia Vigna Fantini, Castelletto, Castelletto Persiera, Castelletto Vigna Pressenda, Ginestra, Vigna Sorì Ginestra, Gramolere, Le Coste Di Monforte, Mosconi, Perno, Pressenda, Rocche Di Castelletto and Treturne. From Novello there are Panerole, Ravera and Sottocastello Di Novello. Verduno holds Monvigliero and San Lorenzo, Roddi is home to Bricco Ambrogio and Raviole is within Grinzane Cavour.

I Tajarin in Alba is a rite of passage. This is the beautiful “40 tuorli” al sugo di salsiccia at Osteria Arco ~ Paired perfectly with Piedmontese wine people and their wines

The 2019 vintage is a special one and though it has been described as “conventional,” were there an argument over its merits, well that might lead people to think someone is having a really bad week. When bright, effusive and fresh nebbiolo are conversely met with the hardened walls of formidable structure – could this be the making of a perfect storm? Pay deep attention to these wines and feel the enormity of passion, intuit some immediate gratification and realize great potential for longevity. These 2019s are Barolo with every bit of necessary stuffing to age, not unlike 2016 and yet so many examples are blessed with a piquancy of beautiful, pure and finessed fruit. Sure it can be a challenge to taste hundreds over a few days period of time but thank goodness these wines are filled with so much fruit. It was a pleasure and indeed a privilege to partake in tasting and assessing this vintage. The 200-plus tasting notes below tell the vintage story, or at least my interpretation of it.

With Ana Schneider

The opportunity to taste so many Barolo and pay visits with dozen of producers was made possible by the organization of Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. The Consorzio Albeisa was founded to promote the wines of the Alba area to the world. Twenty seven years of Nebbiolo Prima has acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero, “with the objective of heightening and promoting the winegrowing heritage of the Langhe and Roero, lands beloved and known throughout the world.” During this January week one of my life’s greatest pleasures was to meet and converse with Anna Schneider from the Instituto per la Protazione Sostenibile delle Piante ~ Schneider presented microvinicazione findings with ancient Piedmontese grape varieties from the Cantina Sperimentale for the Università di Torino, Dipartimento di Scienze Agrarie, Forestali e Alimentari dell’Università degli Studi di Torino and Albeisa Wines. Next order of business is to find funding so that Anna can build a certification program for heritage vineyards in Piemonte in a similar fashion to what Rosa Kruger has done with the Old Vine Project in South Africa. Though some farmers and producers will insist that nebbiolo no longer thrives after 40-plus years there are always exceptions to rules and also differences of opinion. Not to mention other grape varieties that do in fact succeed on their over forty old vines. There is life after 40 and Anna knows this.

Barolo Retrospectives

This 27th edition of Nebbiolo Prima was a special one because it finally brought writers and producers back together in Alba. In 2021 and 2022 there were no anteprime for international guests. Keep in mind that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons and so consider this report as a relevant snapshot of those that did. Return to these pages at a future time to seek out reporting on the nebbiolo of Barbaresco and Roero. As for Elio Altare, Azelia, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico, Elvio Cogno, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Corino, Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Massolino, Alfredo Prunotto, Rivetto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino, Mauro Sebaste, Aldo e Riccardo Seghesio, Mauro Veglio and Roberto Voerzio, here’s to looking forward to having visits with them and their wines. Alas my Barolo notes from Nebbiolo Prima are now transcribed and here for the taking. There are 229 reviews in total; 184 Barolo DOCG 2019, 19 Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017, 14 Barolo DOCG 2009, two Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007 and 10 assorted library wines.

Albeisa Wines

Barolo DOCG 2019

Bricco Maiolica Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Diano d’Alba Contandin 2019

Immediately recognizable as pure, authentic and honest Barolo. A certain sense of nebbiolo ubiquity but more than that, up and into a realm occupied by some experienced and aging vines, classic fermentation and elévage. A Diano d’Alba concern for respect and a vintage sweetness in fruit meeting high acidity that makes this a perfect Barolo for five to maximum 10 years. Respect. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Carlina Barolo DOCG Castello 2019, Grinzane Cavour

A bit of volatility off the top, high tonality, pitch and voice but also a percentage of overripe fruit in this scattered nebbiolo. Tart and crunchy, acids and dried notes in fruit and herbs not quite seeing eye to eye. Some grit here. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Cappellano Di Veglio Luigi Barolo DOCG Raviole 2019, Grinzane Cavour

Calm, mature, settled and knowable nebbiolo, a Barolo made with an eye in all directions from a producer that knows many things. At the top of which is the natural world and yet this carries the feels of an example that is equally estate as it is place. I’ve a mind to believe the other wines made here are very similar is style, stature and disposition. Acids and tannins both run high and in charge. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Agricola Fratelli Broccardo SSA Barolo DOCG I Tre Pais 2019, Più comuni

In the ways of bright, airy, high and mighty nebbiolo comes this Barolo of no particular mention of a few communes gathered together and set into ubiquitous stone. Tart, salty, thin-skinned, lightly pressed and minty cool. A savoury and saline example for food only in the early days of its tenure. Acids trump tannins at every step. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abbona Di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

A nebbiolo of weight that resides down below, bracketed at the lower rungs of the overall ladder, fruit mature and maximized where ripenesses gather. Fulsome and brooding, acids also running amok, keeping the beat though fruit lays low. No rise or tempo changes on the horizon. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Grimaldi Bruna Barolo DOCG Camilla 2019, Più comuni

Fine if middle road taken Barolo, surely knowable as well kept and properly raised nebbiolo, yet something so simple. A good weight and classic temperament no doubt, heady aromas of roses and tar, structural aspects in synch, a gathering of fruit here and there layered with purpose, by intention, for right and just reason. Architectural and respectful nebbiolo. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cordara Ornella Barolo DOCG Debutto 2019, Più comuni

A combination seen, nosed and tasted many times before, that being high acid intensity and mature fruit. A factor of muscle memory, of creating Barolo from nebbiolo without allowing for change. That said this is a very youthful wine and time will be kind because the large wood aging will slow down the fruit and reign in the volatility. As a mature Barolo it will drink with proper tradition. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Francone Di Francone Fabrizio E C. Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

The immediacy elicits a nod or two in knowing something is correct but also respectful from this nebbiolo. Something traditional but also accepting off technology and change. The fruit is variegated, at once mature but then also effusive. The acids are forceful though in two parts and one side is restrained. Overall there is a true Barolo feel that speaks to an amalgamation of good vineyards processed by a forward thinking wine team. Results in high quality done right. Not just correct but proper and promising. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Angela 2019, Più comuni

Volatile off the charts and dried fruit. Hard acid and tannins dry out like roses in a hot desert wind.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Parusso Armando Di Parusso F.Lli Barolo DOCG Perarmando 2019, Più comuni

Definite Ribena and tart red fruit straight away. Dextromethorphan stirred into sauvage. Chorizo too. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Pio 2019, Più comuni

Closed aromatics, needs air and agitation, not reductive but unrelenting. Roses come first, brushy herbs next, rosemary mainly and then the fennel. Quite a taut, arid and grippy nebbiolo, traditional to be very sure and needing years to resolve. Will always be rustic and loyal to years of repetition. In this instance that is perfectly great. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sarotto Barolo DOCG Briccobergera 2019, Più comuni

Brighter and more of a hello take a look at what I’ve got to show nebbiolo with an aroma like rose petals swimming in rosewater. Some volatile grip behind the pretty secrets yet the two seem to be working in cahoots so keep on going. Palate takes the appropriate next step and wells with a pool of red fruit, submerged cap macerated for what feels like a few weeks or possibly more. Creates texture with some creaminess and though wood lends a few extra drops of vanilla there is an overall feel of integration and a gift-wrapped result. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Spirito Agricolo Ballarin Barolo DOCG Tre Ciabot 2019, Più comuni

Off-putting if auspicious start with an aromatic wave of greens and reds, ripenesses mixed and volatile compounds circling. Hard and brittle tannins will never abate. The wine is what it is.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG Zinzasco 2019, Più comuni

Zinzasco translates as “gypsy” and is actually a Barolo named for the trails that link the family’s holdings both in Verduno and La Morra. A mix of vineyards from the two communes provides the fruit that sees a 25 day soak followed by 24 months in a mix of grandi botti and tonneaux. All about aromatics, high and mighty ones with a wave of florals, by lilies and lilacs. Fine and of a presence that’s just accessible enough in terms of nebbiolo and Barolo. Feels like a restaurant list bottling, classic and affordable. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Vigneti Luigi Oddero E Figli Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

Reticence but lights are on ahead. Extremely youthful with sharp acids and biting tannin. Needs so much time but there is fine lightning fruit waiting to flesh and release. Still this will always be a nebbiolo of excitability, unchecked and unkempt aggression. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Paesi Tuoi 2019, Più comuni

Dark and brooding fruit with firm and grippy structural comports. The tannins are admittedly a bit gritty and the overall feel here is a seriously grippy wine though one can’t help but feel that time will bring about both resolution and ruggedly handsome features. Muscular yet in control if just a bit gangly and unkempt in youth. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2019, Roddi

Fruit ripeness and maturity noted off the top in aromas that recall liquorice, dried roses and braised fennel. Aromatic but an evolved sensation translating directly onto a palate that delivers more of the same. The parts that prop and lift are solid and do much the same work. So yes everything is on the same page for a nebbiolo as Barolo from the slope that is Bricco Ambrogio in Roddi that will drink just like this for three to four years. Catch it in this early-ish window. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Lodali Walter Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2019, Roddi

High tonality juxtaposed against a backdrop of maturity puts this right into the pool occupied by Barolo for drinking young and a must with food. Then again there are some gangly and gurgling tannins that need resolution so the best bet would be to wait two years and drink for two-plus more after that. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Verduno

Bel Colle Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Youthful and as a consequence quite reserved on the nose. Nothing musty though not forthright neither so time and fortitude are required to eek, coax and pull out the charm. That Monvigliero speciality awaits with a current scrape of orange zest and some other red citrus that teases and indicates what is likely to come next. That would be flesh that hangs on solid if nimble bones from a cru that gifts, given time is granted. That is a must because today’s quiet will beget tomorrow’s happiness. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted March 2023

Bosio Family Estates Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Hard not to see, nose, taste and assess this as classically Verduno with layered if compact assets to speak of Monvigliero with kindness. A skilled winemaking joint between mature fruit and solid architectural bones for Barolo of near immediacy. A year or two will bring everything together but this is not a nebbiolo in need of resilience or renaissance. It will always impress and do so for a very long time. Crunchy then chewy. This is the shit for the cru. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castello Di Verduno Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Certainly tows the Monvigliero in Verduno line with classic ripeness meeting winemaking restraint, though this does seem to tip in the direction of the over, not the under. That is to say there is some mature fruit. Notes that inch into the leathery and the drying. As such the chasm widens and the volatility stands out but the combination of reserve and grip will see some genuine improvement over time. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Morra Diego Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Higher and brighter for Verduno Monvigliero with lighting strikes from out of the acid skies and fruit strung really tight. A serious wine that does not smile and likely will not for years to come. Not an ideal balance now – yet still there is great hope because of place within place. Qualified Barolo in any case and will have its moment in the sun. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Classically formulated, iterated and capitulated Monvigliero out of the commune of Verduno. The fruit has found optimum fruition and so the phenolic gain is both positive and proper. Matched well are the bones by extension from karst that sets the tone for grip while the seasoning is so very saline-mineral and white pepper. Beautiful Barolo in so many respects and yes, Monvigliero is a really fine cru leading to many fine wines. There is more gravity to this tannic situation out of which a firm handshake guarantees a deal struck to satisfy our wishes. This is tops and will drink with distinction for years to come. Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Burlotto Comm.G.B. Barolo DOCG Acclivi 2019

Ubiquitous Verduno here in nebbiolo, a step up from Langhe to be sure but surely the base kind of wine for Barolo. Hopefully some young Monvigliero fruit and perhaps just a precursor to the possibilities of these Verduno vines becoming grander and grander over time. In drink now terms this is very good nebbiolo in fact if I were sitting down with a plate of Tajarin tonight I’d happily have a glass. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2019

Not sure if San Lorenzo di Verduno elicits this sort of response to nebbiolo but the lift and anti-gravitas in this example sure sets it apart form Monvigliero. Quite tart and full of tang, tannins a bit gritty and angular. Needs two years and the wood has to melt, especially the high vanillin factor that stands out right now. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pelassa Daniele Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2019

A much more accomplished and finer iteration of San Lorenzo di Verduno to be sure, with a better connection between ripenesses and the way they stack but also layer. Tones run a just a bit high but the brightness and juicy fruit is well managed, and also appreciated. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Morra

Cascina Del Monastero Barolo DOCG Annunziata 2019

Quite mature in terms of fruit with a red berry to mandarin orange positioning and yet the structural parts are gritty-chalky, less experienced and not quite in synch. Remembering how young and precocious a wine like this can be is important because what notes ring out today will surely change, perhaps not tomorrow but a day or two later. Keep the possibilities in mind and imagine what might be. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina La Foia 2019

Welcome to the first of La Morra with Arborina and its deep inhalant aromatic depth like few other Barolo. The cru-commune relationship depicts very serious nebbiolo that does not so much brood as it does weigh down with gravity, especially with the site specific La Foia. That said there is an orange zest and pomegranate feeling from this fruit to juxtapose and lift so that the weight of structure will not keep this Barolo down. This is certainly a style and one appreciated by many with its subtle swarthiness and pushing limits of what is pure in the arena of clarity. There is no denying the honesty and interpretation of soil. That is abundantly clear. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

No two Barolo are the same, not even when raised and nurtured from the same cru, though there must be some similarities involved. La Foia and more general Arborina does in fact deliver the juxtaposition of density and lift and so when opposites attract there is great success. This achieves said goal by combining great ripeness with swarthy lift and does so with beauty more than brawn. Hard not to be wooed by a wine that acts this natural and in a way that says it could be nothing else. The thread runs through and the concept seems clear. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

No two Barolo are the same, not even when raised and nurtured from the same cru, though there must be some similarities involved. La Foia and more general Arborina does in fact deliver the juxtaposition of density and lift and so when opposites attract there is great success. This achieves said goal by combining great ripeness with swarthy lift and does so with beauty more than brawn. Hard not to be wooed by a wine that acts this natural and in a way that says it could be nothing else. The thread runs through and the concept seems clear. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bovio Gianfranco Di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

Same Arbonina flesh and La Morra bones yet here a bit leaner and less weighty. The acidity runs higher and so volatility sets the pace though that gently swarthiness of Arborina is absent from the mix. Fine and grippy Barolo if just a bit too tart and angular to be blessed. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Camparo Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2019

Here from Boiolo in La Morra the nebbiolo is stretched yet not elastic, linear and pulled as taut as it gets, like skate laces for full stability. No real joy here I’m afraid and while young Barolo is rarely about that ideal there must be great fruit and seamless structure to make it work. This carries just a fraction of both. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Spirito Agricolo Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bricco Rocca 2019

Bricco Rocca surely gains solar radiation from a fully exposed hillside because this 2019 Barolo exhibits all the ripeness that would have been possible in this vintage. Long, low and slowly capitulated phenolics for an already wise and mature nebbiolo that will drink well for a good number of years. We’re not talking decades but one to be sure. Tannins are a bit rustic but they do the trick and put this in good steading. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mario Di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

Quite closed and after tasting a few dozen 2019 Barolo it’s actually quite surprising that more are not like this Brunate. Or perhaps that is the cru in this vintage (and others) because time is a factor and so much of it will be needed to see a nebbiolo like this find its way. The bones, weight and substance are all there with potential running high, if at the moment desperately dry. Like to see this agin in five years time. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sara Cortese, Mauro Molino Wines

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG 2019

Perhaps because it was such a top quality growing season yet it feels like the classico Barolo was not compromised by all the best fruit being partitioned to the cru Baroli. Three La Morra vineyards make substantial contributions, including Béri and Conca planted in 1982. Molino’s La Morra was unaffected by the September hail that fell on other parts, including Bricco Luciani within the commune. Big French casks were used, of 50 HL for 18 months. As silky smooth as this is also glycerol of texture, fruit naturally sweet, shiny and fortified, likely as much as this cuvée has even shown. Elegant, suave and the sort of tannins that scroll across the palate. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Bricco Luciani 2019

The Bricco Luciani vineyard was in fact struck by the hail of September 5th to result in the necessity of reducing yields. The cru is situated south of the Molino property with a southeast exposure and its important fruit sees a mix of big barrel and also barriques. There were only 4,100 bottles made of this most elegant and perfumed nebbiolo that while some smaller wood brings an element of unresolved early seasoning, well the matters of finesse and haute style are unrelenting in their override. This young Barolo is a wine of two parts but given five to seven years it will transmogrify into something spiritual, with the potential for telling a religious Bricco Luciani story. Drink 2027-2037.  Tasted January 2023

Vietti Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

Funky off the top with cheese rind and a note of reduction. Big and ripe but needs plenty of air and preferably agitation to realize the charm. Which is in fact the case though truth is the tannins are brutal and will likely never be what we would call unrelenting. Fortunately so much fruit rides along. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enzo Boglietti Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

On the lighter and less brooding side of La Morra’s Brunate with red fruit in a tart berry meets citrus kind of way. Like raspberries and pomegranates with all the greens involved, rosemary and dried fennel too. Tight wine, neither harsh nor astringent but rustic and so very young. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Marilena Barolo DOCG Capalot 2019

Not exactly an open-knit and giving example of La Morra Brunate but there is surely a skeletal framework for which the fruit to hang upon, take its time to work through the kinks and flesh out. There is no doubt that the future will be much brighter than the present for a nebbiolo that must be given time to figure it all out. Seeing the forest through the trees is key because cask and structure are barriers and will be for these first five-plus years. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alberto Burzi

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG Capalot Vecchie Viti 2019

High level ripeness noted straight away so despite the omnipresence of tannin there is surely a drink relatively sooner rather than later aspect to this Barolo. The intensity of tart flavours will not be denied and finding the right food partner is seriously key. There must be protein and also fat. Salt as well. It’s simple math. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot 2019

High quality emits and rigs form fruit destined to meet structure for classicism in Barolo. Right proper nebbiolo here and while the palate may seem a touch restrained the wine is just tight, as young Barolo so often is. The structure is strong and the flesh available will hang around for as long as it takes to see a resolution. Even if the fruit lays low in a dumb-like phase it will show resilience and come back to the party. Represents Caplet well with all parts in touch, including the savoury and mineral. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enzo Boglietti Barolo DOCG Case Nere 2019

Casa Nere is both fruity and rustic, pretty and traditional. There is some VA in the wake off that fruit but it is in check so as not to fully distract from the goal. That would be mid-term aging and the kind of Barolo you want to bring out at dinner five to seven years post release or eight to 11 after vintage. Look just ahead of 2027 for this to begin its prime time at the table. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

F.Lli Casetta Di Casetta Ernesto E C. Barolo DOCG Casa Nere 2019

So very primary, almost carbonic in terms of aromas and so seeing far afield is the only way to make judgement on such a nebbiolo. The tannins are so bloody tight and they double down on the sanguine, blood orange aspects of this still reverberating Barolo. Looks like it will morph into something proper but the jury will be out for several years time. Drink 2026-2032.  Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Cappellano Di Veglio Luigi Barolo DOCG Castagni 2019

Completely unique profile in nebbiolo for Barolo from the cru of Castagni which for all intents and purposes is a singular estate’s block of soil. Liking the chalky constitution and gentle swarthiness of this nebbiolo and while the tannic thrust is tough on the palate there is plenty of fruit in a ripe and substantial way to keep up with the plan. Should resolve into a Barolo worthy and revered. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Michele Chiarlo Barolo DOCG Cerequio 2019

From Cerequio there is a notable swarthiness and wooly character, this without even taking a sip. There is also a great and compact set of moist red fruit out of a most aromatic nebbiolo. Stands out from a pack and so the cru is wet to be heard. Youthful and grippy but these are tannins of a polished ilk that match the wealth of the perfume. A Barolo of all parts elevated and characterful, without a doubt one that will soon become charming and even gregarious. Impressive stature here. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Molino Mauro Barolo DOCG Conca 2019

The Conca cru out of La Morra delivers a lean, light and über transparent nebbiolo for a very specific style of Barolo. Red citrus from currants to pomegranate and really tart acidity. Though the grittiness in liquid chalky tannins will eventually dissolve, this Conca will show its best in the mid term. After the end of this decade there will likely only be the acid structures left to direct the palate. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

Reductive though not super distractingly so and fruit ripe enough if variegated by combinative sources. Crunchy and just a bit astringent if a promising look ahead where tannins are resolved and the wine offers some love. Won’t ever be showy or gregarious – but time will be helpful and kind. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Marilena Cristian Boffa Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

A bit closed and hidden as far as aromatics are concerned with just a peak of red rose, orange tisane and grated ginger. More like horseradish and so something occludent is in the way of what should be precluding. Tart and full on tang with middling tannin make for a wine to drink after the clock strikes 2024 and for just a few lean years after that. Not much fleshy substance here I’m afraid. A bit dusty. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo DOCG Bricco Gattera 2019

A smooth sailing season, weather consistent from start to finish, aside from the hail and the frost of September 5th. That was no disaster and the rest of September was perfectly fine. A nearly perfectly ripening in both pace and accumulation, picked on the 11th of October. A terrific Barolo, compact but not compressed, just the right amount of natural sweetness at all three levels; fruit, acid and tannin. That structure is again compact though nothing indicates weight or density but yes, plenty of gravitas. Beautiful nebbiolo and while it will travel long, it’s also nearly ready. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Carlo Revello & Figli Barolo DOCG Giachini 2019

Giachini is the first of the 2019 nebbiolo to be really present and emit prettiness. Also the first strawberry scented Barolo and so the cru is surely the source of such a red fruit stride. While the structure is anything but formidable there is a lithe white peppery pique and mild grip to see this drink well for let’s say up to five-plus years. If the price is right the buy in is really good. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG La Serra 2019

La Serra lines up in a similar weight and vein to Giachini by an aromatic profile that is nothing but pretty with sweet perfume coming from fruit described as just the same. A bit more oomph and minty savour though subtle and just like spice or seasoning upon raw salty protein. Also a gentle swarthiness with that naturally woolly texture coating the palate to protect from a medium-plus intensity of tannin. This is a very promising Barolo. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG 2019

Reductive off the top and mature to indicate something problematic. Definite bottle issue here. Second bottle is much improved with great substance in spite of a lean and implosive profile. This nebbiolo carries proper and real grip with a profile so honest and transparent you just know that reality means producer, cru and soil are all important. Really young and must be collared to see where it will go. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2019

Energy as if a matter of semi-carbonic, an extremely useful contribution and gainfully swarthy. Tannins are fierce and the tension in this wine is serious. No doubt six months to a year will do wonders in terms of giving a more open impression of what is to come but make no mistake. The structure of this nebbiolo is massive and the fruit surely capable of keeping up with the Joneses. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pietro Rinaldi Barolo DOCG 2019

Middle of the road in all respects, first of red fruit with orange edginess and tension off the top. It’s a direct hit of nebbiolo, knowable and unequivocal with the cherries, tar, rose and herbs. Benchmark for ubiquity and tannins that back up the exercise for a five year run. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Stroppiana Barolo DOCG San Giacomo 2019

Less of a direct hit but more like a kick in the side from classic La Morra perfume, savoury flavour and grip by tannin. Drier and dustier for nebbiolo which carries and expresses its very own style of ubiquity and this is a poster child for the like. The back end feels some weight and so the wine will likely begin to decline sooner than some. More lightness of being and laser focus would help but alas that is not this. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Carlo Revello & Figli Barolo DOCG 2019

While some La Morra attack with direct nebbiolo hits and others come from the sides there are some that split the twain. This nebbiolo would be that kind. Somewhat restrained aromas but the cherry, rose, tar and sweetness of herbs are there, albeit stuck behind a repealable veil of structure. Give this two-plus years and the curtain will be pulled away to reveal the wine this wants to be. Shows both good purpose and potential. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monfalletto Barolo DOCG 2019

Darker, richer and quicker resolved fruit with drying yet ample tannins. A bit off a disparate nebbiolo for which the parts are far apart and need time to return to centre. Not certain they will ever meet at the exact middle. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2019

Really quite classic nebbiolo right here with high-toned red fruit in a red citrus and slightly dusty way, though more than enough charm to see the right, joyous and correct way. Tannins are a bit angry but that is not shocking and they will begin to subside after just a few years of time. Liking the transparency and honesty though would never see this as a rich and luxe example of La Morra. Drink 2026-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

Lovely little nebbiolo here, sweet and sour fruit with a great tang and some of the easiest tannins of the vintage. Bring on the Chinese food! Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

A swarthy and humid Barolo with the smell of fresh cut cedar, and the fresh savour of an evergreen forest. Incredibly savoury nebbiolo unchained and without restraint so viewed at the stage as a hyperbole of cru, that being Rocche dell-Annunziata. Good quality tannins here so the wine will live long and prosper. The style is exaggerated and you just may find it to your liking. Drink 2026-2033.  Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

A much more intense and serious nebbiolo from the Rocche dell-Annunziata cru is this right here with a variegation of tannins matched by substantial fruit with as much grip as anything else. Massive construction of Barolo with all the stuffing imagined for twenty years of living. Packed with insulation and the wine will never get cold or suffer from the elements. So well protected. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

Very primary but the fruit is substantial and yet there is that cilantro soapiness that Barolo sometimes shows about the spicing of said fruit. Tannic yes but not over the top. Linear and focused so it remains to be seen where this will travel. Drink 2026-2031.   Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Very primary and how could it not be as a barrel sample and yet there are more resolved parts in this Rocche dell-Annunziata than others tasted from bottle. Expressive of a proper woolliness meeting chalky tannic presence to set this up for some good nebbiolo living. Chewy and drying at the same time. Drink 2026-2035.  Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Ratti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2019

High volatility creeping up into an acetic vein though this feels like a batch issue, not a problem with a particular bottle. Pine forest and wet straw, green tannins and harsh pepperiness. Some improvement on the palate and then finishing with astringent notes. Drink 2024-2025.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Dosio Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2019

Woolly and swarthy to begin, dusty red fruit in the citrus style of La Morra and here more specifically Serradanari. Dried cherries and also roses but substantial and the acids work to flesh them out, lend them solubility to become fresh again. Interesting nebbiolo, improving in the glass and becoming something worth following. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rizieri Barolo DOCG Silio 2019

Silio from La Morra is simple and effective as nebbiolo for Barolo of a tart, tang-filled and sharp tannic ilk. Not the most complex or diversified example but effective nonetheless. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Torriglione 2019

Torriglione delivers a macerated cherry sensation as a lovely elixir of naturally sweet fruit. As a nebbiolo there is something intangible that reminds of a Piero from Talenti in Montalcino. Yes there are rare moments when nebbiolo and sangiovese converge, even if 99 times out of 100 they are more likely to diverge. This is lovely and spirited Barolo worth saving and cellaring. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Novello

Abrigo Giovanni Di Abrigo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Proper and balanced right away as Ravera yet with a pine-savoury edginess running through. Liquid chalky and just a bit sour-edged. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Heady aromatic front, big-boned and fully engaged with the vintage. Quite sanguine and ferric, of iodine and balsamic. So much gravity and intensity, drying tannins and trenchant purpose. A magnanimous Ravera with much to prove. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abrigo F.Lli Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Prettier fro Ravera with plenty of substantial fruit beginning and ending with cherries. Good intensity, not too much mind you and a nice sour edginess that keeps coming in waves, returning again and again. Good persistence from this nebbiolo, purposed and focused no doubt. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Ravera is arguably the most important Novello cru and the eight iterations tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima show just how challenging it is to make a memorably great Barolo. A great number are impressive and then there is this take by the Vaira family. Their section of the cru might just deliver the richest and most unctuous fruit. Coupled with a season up there with the finest of seasons could result in something too ripe and upfront. “Al contrario, anzi, non così in fretta.” No shortage of generosity but team Vaira has written a perfectly paced nebbiolo song. An ode to 1975 classic rock but also something so new, modern and pure. The fruit is all pro, the structure no con. No adversity or issues with tannin because the chains are so strong and suave. Drink 2025-2034.  Tasted January 2023

Grimaldi Giacomo Di Grimaldi Ferruccio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Swarthy and high volatility upon sour dark cherry fruit. Crabapple and red onion skin as well. Fruit is a bit too mature. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vitivinicola Cagliero Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Bright, natural sweet and sour juxtaposed fruit of a balanced and consistent aromatic emission, with equal and persistent qualities exhibited by the palate. Yet there is something so savoury and edgy about the flavours, like lit tobacco of mild astringency. Close but no cigar. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Comes out like nebbiolo should albeit on the lithe and transparent side, of cherry fruit with a plumpness that’s more plum seasoned by cracked black pepper. Swarthy and salty, woollen and fuzzy. Unique to be sure. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vietti Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Fine liquor of nebbiolo unlike any other in a flight adding up to 80-odd Barolo and so curiosity is piqued at attention. Lovely gelid consistency in a wine of great implosive intensity that should take a decade or more to unravel. The charm and excitability are strong. Look forward to returning again and again. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Piazzo Comm. Armando Di Piazzo Marina Barolo DOCG Sottocasetello Di Novello 2019

Cool, savoury and a bit boozy from ripe fruit, like macerating cherries in a simple syrup solution. Rich and unctuous with sweet acidity and tannins quite similar though they attack with fervour. Solid if a bit out of balance. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Grimaldi Giacomo Di Grimaldi Ferruccio Barolo DOCG Sottocastello Di Novello 2019

Quality nebbiolo fruit to be sure, straight away and with confidence. Liquid chalky and also peppery, herbal and with an Amaro finish. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

With Francesca Vaira

Serralunga d’Alba

G.D. Vajra Di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Baudana 2019

You have to believe this Baudana was made for us, and I mean all of us to enjoy Barolo 2019 earlier than many of its peers. The nose is so smooth and inviting, the palette equally so and crunchy fresh. This is simply a fine composition that tells everything that needs to be known about the vintage. Red fruit just mature enough to be ready and structure determined by vintage, never trying too hard and ideal for the next five years. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Palladino Boscareto 2019

Boscareto doles Serralunga d’Alba with comfort and relative ease in nebbiolo of dark red fruit (think black cherry) and just the faintest hint of dustiness, like the skins of a red plum. Everything is just so – ripeness, acids, savoury bits, herbals and tannins. All in the right place at essentially the same time. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brovia Barolo DOCG Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia 2019

Higher in tone, not exactly brighter but there’s an aromatic rise that comes from this, yet still what feels like typical Serralunga d’Alba. Roses and orange skin, a note of balsamico. Quite a taut and yet to yield example. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2019

Plenty of tradition in this Briccolina, if nothing else that is abundantly clear. Dark ripeness for the most part and that fine line walked between most excellent fruit and a swarthiness to remind that these vines grow in soil. Not to mention the wine is made in such a way so as to promote the relationship between the vineyard, the cellar and all that develops from out of a natural world. Plenty of potential and a wine for those who like a bit of sauvage. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Schiavenza Di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Broglio 2019

Broglio is a truly tart and tightly wound example of Serralunga d’Alba but with tell-tale fruit that just feels like it could only represent the hills of this commune. Dustier than some others and like a wire wrapped and circling the spool, pulled so tight there can be no imminent release. Or anytime soon for that matter. That said you feel the effect of this intense juice on your palate for a good long time. Should age with the best of them. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Luigi Baudana Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Considered the fruit’s pitch and depth this is a nebbiolo in which acidity is tops and surprisingly so. “Always from Ceretta” says Francesca Vaira. “Even if it is a very leafy vintage.” Truly, as noted in the savoury streak running through, surely not atypical for Ceretta cru. Red berries shading to black yet bright, shining and luminescent. Lovely version of Ceretta with a fine balance between that which is tart and naturally sweet.  Drink 2024-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Germano Ettore Di Germano Sergio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

More than somewhat reductive Ceretta, of earth and fruit kept hidden for the time being but also a real mineral notation, or at least something that makes us think that to be the case. What lays beneath are classic notes, rose petals and tar, orange scrape and aromatics as if by ginger or the smoulder of spice on curing and smoking meats. There is a strong crust and slow developed Barque as a skin on this nebbiolo and in 2019 Serralunga d’Alba terms it will likely take as long to open up as any from the commune. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Garesio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Lighter and brighter for Ceretta from Serralunga d’Alba, fruit well developed and already showing a maturity for earlier access. Quite tart, high in acid and tannins feeling drying yet not so very long-chained. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Straight away as much a feeling gained as being a nebbiolo from the greater whole that is Serralunga d’Alba though Ceretta focused this is and with time in the glass will open to reveal its particular specificity. A bit of cheese rind here, some deeper or more earthy grounding and a moment of brooding. Tannins are quite grippy and the wine will take its time. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

The consistency of Cerreta cru is quite remarkable and here another example that carries the weight and class with equal distinction. Tighter or at least as tight as any in its class, tannins immediately known to be grippy and in charge. A wine to wait on and wait for years because its far from ready. On the far side of 2019 in that regard and so remains to be seen if full beauty waits on the other side. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga D’alba 2019

Plain and simple the straight and narrow goods from Serralunga d’Alba with fruit part dark cherry and also plum dusty. Acids crunch in part because there are dried herbs and bits of tar in the nether with tannins grippy but also a bit hard. Middle of the road example that also needs a few years to settle in. Will always drink as a dry and taut nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

De Simone Roberto Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Perfectly light to mid weight Serralunga d’Alba in the most generalized and understood way. A good combination of commune vineyard fruit to create a layering that is pretty much seamless and proper though there are bits here and there that flash and spark. Lovely level of tart and fruit tang, mild earthiness and just as it began it then finishes with medium intensity tannins that follow suit. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Margheria Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Just a bit of a different sort of Serralunga d’Alba iteration coming from this non-specific commune nebbiolo with fruit as dark and mature as it gets for the greater sense of place. Deep inhalant of nebbiolo with more tar than roses and fruits both orange and red compacted one upon another, again and on repeat. So much up front including the tannins and it just feels like a fully pressed wine with everything coming at you, all at once. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Negro Angelo & Figli Di Giovanni Negro Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Once again the commune delivers its up front values with all parts equally on display if in the style of all in, with haste, straight from the word press. Leathery and earthy red to blackening fruit and all the acid-tannin structural demand, without waiting or holding back. This means the concepts of taut, tart and tang are compacted upon each other while drying notes bind it all together at a quick and forceful finish. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enrico Serafino Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

A brighter and more effusive Serralunga d’Alba here, nice level of woolly aromatics that entice and linger so that you choose to spend more time on the nose of this intriguing nebbiolo. A gentler touch it feels, a press and likely cappello sommerso methodology that coaxes the right kind of perfumes and creates correct textures. This is simply a lovely and elegant iteration of commune fruit without stress, but with just the right amount of tension. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

The sort of truly straightforward, expected and knowable multi-vineyard commune example is this from Serralunga d’Alba, without equivocation or fail. A just reward in nebbiolo, dark cherry in fruit, leathery and wise, tense yet never tired. Interest runs high and yet thinking too much about how it was made or for what purpose is simply unnecessary. Cellar for three years, pop and pour with a pasta course, preferably under a sauce of salssicia ragù. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2019

Dry, earthy and a bit brittle in terms of structure but if you know you know and this is a prime example of a Barolo mired in a place that is ten years before its time. The bones are solid, the intensions altruistic and the confidence ahead of the pack. Gabutti is the cru in Serralunga d’Alba and seeing the forest for the trees is essential in knowing what will become. This moment is truly a “dumb” phase and greater things lay ahead. Trust the process. Drink 2026-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Garesio Barolo DOCG Gianetto 2019

Gianetto is lithe and greatly perfumed as a nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba that is truly about beginnings with less attention paid to the greater picture. The fruit is naturally sweet but also quite tart and so there is a slight acetic elevation involved. Tannins are both dusty and brittle. Wait a year and then make use quickly after that. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023à

Here Lazzarito delivers a one-two pinch of fruit and also perfumes, of red berry and orange, of fresh rose and lilac. Quite a deep aromatic front followed by true depth and intensity on the palate. Big wine for Serralunga d’Alba, layered, compact and generous yet just airy enough to allow breaths of fresh acidity and essential oils to lubricate and elasticize the parts. There should be a long and prosperous life ahead for this special nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2034.  Cask sample, tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Di Mirafiore & Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2019

Tart aromas, dark in violet light, a nebbiolo of chiaroscuro, shadows and hidden meaning. Perceived and felt with hunger and emotion but the wine requests that you take your time to gain an understanding of its meaning. Patience and attention paid will lead to the truth but also time as the factor for arriving at that place. There is profundity here, that much is apparent and it’s incumbent on you to reach said nirvana. Lazzarito will abide. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pira Luigi Di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Marenca 2019

Unusual nose for Serralunga d’Alba and perhaps just a sign of early maturity. In fact that is the case and this Marenca speaks in a language that says drink now. Softest tannins of any in the commune from 2019 but no faults, no issues and pretty good wine for right now. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pira Luigi Di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Margheria 2019

A perfectly reasonable and well seasoned Margheria from the commune of Serralunga d’Alba brings a handsome and lean yet muscular tone to nebbiolo. The aromatics are neither shy nor running with haste and draw you in for more. Traceable actions, emotions and notions upon the palate make you realize this to be something consistent, persistent and quite fine. Nothing earth shattering but defined as truly responsible and beautifully plausible Barolo. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG Meriame 2019

Mariame is true to Serralunga d’Alba commune yet idealistic as its own cru as first noted in aromas running this way and that. Earthy fruit and a cheese rind that repeats with a lactic creaminess. Structure is one of grip and relent meaning there are tannins but they do soften early. The drinking window follows this course. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG 2019

Not the most open-knit or prominent aromatic front so pause and see what will be. A demi-classic Serralunga d’Alba perfume does come forth in the rose, orange, cherry and tar way but it’s both faint and uninspiring. Palate follows suit though admittedly improves upon the proposition. Solid wine in the end. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG 2019

A bit of a soft, lean and dishy dilute nebbiolo with no real grip or concentration. Not representative of Serralunga d’Alba in any meaningful manner. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039.  Tasted January 2023

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019

It all begins with Ornato in that the perfume is quite serious with an amazing display of ferric, hematic and smoked meaty notes. Really deep set of Serralunga d’Alba circumstances established in fruit, earth and stone for a wine of great and trenchant meaning. Structurally that is with backbone, essential acids and the kind of stuffing to see this travel with potential, possibly for decades. Controlled chalkiness and slightly heavy use of wood though that too will help see it live forever. Drink 2026-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Palladino Barolo DOCG Parafada 2019

Parafada being pretty and generous is no mistake for a nebbiolo predicated on perfume. Orange zest, cherry skin, red apple too. Not the most demanding set of structural circumstances right here and sometimes that is just fine. Drink this cru nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba sooner than Ornato. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Prapò 2019

Lovely aromatic stance exerted by this Prapò out of Serralunga d’Alba with fresh cut flowers unlike most others and a depth of fruit to match the perfume. High quality work put in and continued in the cellar makes this shine without any volatility whatsoever. Perhaps a bit soft and barrel creamy upon the palate but a most amenable nebbiolo no matter how you slice this Black Forest cake. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Prapò 2019

This second of two Prapò out of Serralunga d’Alba is much like the first, pretty of perfume, floral and fruit juicy. The palate is bit tighter and the backbone more upright. Sacrifices some of that first encountered lithe amenability for grippier nebbiolo connections. Drink 2025-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Le Cecche Barolo DOCG Sorano 2019

Sorano is a lean and tannic nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba with some acetic tones and dusty tannins. Not a lot of joy early on and while time is an ally it will always remain tight and not what we would refer to as generous. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Terre Del Barolo Arnaldo Rivera Barolo Vignarionda 2019

Great initial swarthy launch into an aromatic display like a weather front rolled in and hovering over the earth. Vignarionda opens up and rains on earthy fruit in a nebbiolo that can’t be missed or ignored. Dark cherry, tar and some iodine to ferric tendencies. The palate shows more savour and wood, a spice factor but also a hollowness up the middle. Needs just a bit more stuffing though the wine never overworks or tries too hard. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo

Fratelli Serioe Battista Borgogno Barolo DOCG Albarella 2019

Herbal aromatic Barolo commune fruit puts Albarella in a cru of its own and speaks a particular vernacular. One of seasoning and then come the chains of tannin, marching in one by one. In a line, ready to battle. The rusticity in this wine speaks to the traditional, to big casks and loyalty. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gomba Cascina Boschetti Barolo DOCG Boschetti 2019

Boschetti is simply beautiful, an aromatic stunner of rose bushes and red fruit so well seasoned and fortified to go on forever. While the nebbiolo in this glass is indeed something too behold it is also one contained within a bubble of great structure to see charm released ever so slowly with all signs pointing to this taking place over two plus decades. The first signs of release are five away. Drink 2027-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

G. D. Vajra Albe Barolo DOCG 2019

Albe a Barolo of four cru, fruit source quadruplet of directions, like looking all four ways an intersection for nebbiolo that speaks four languages and answers four questions. Albe is the window into the 2019, accessible and inviting, fruit times four, all of which explain what a vintage has been from then moment fruit reach maturity and was picked. The precursor and foreshadow into all else to come. Muscular yet supple and with an aim to please. Tannins are nurturing and potential will be longer than imagination will allow. Drink this for up to 12 years. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted January 2023

G.D. Vajra Di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2019

Senses and palates are put on immediate notice for Bricco delle Viole because from out of 2019 the Barolo cru delivers something to stop us in our tracks. The confidence and restraint are more than admirable as they conspire for beauty and of course excellence. Purity of fruit, consistency in temperament and length to last a short lifetime are the combined quotient in this very special nebbiolo. Honesty and execution for Barolo incarnate. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mario Di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2019

This second of two Bricco delle Viole cru nebbiolo is deeper and darker or perhaps better assessed as quicker to explain its purpose from the 2019 vintage. The fruit exudes confidence and the wine wants you to know this, sans restraint. Acid to tannin structure do much of the same and the wood seasons everything to the max. Will live long though there will always be level of austerity involved. Drink 2026-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Serioe Battista Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Uncanny aroma of chocolate mint to say that wood is equal to cru in this Cannubi from Barolo commune. Seems to be a mix of cask and smaller barrels – likely some new barriques in this elévage. Also quite a note of evergreen and even clove. This is a maker who cares about their program and wants their wine to speak in this language. Fruit is a bit suppressed, tannins are quite dusty, acids strong. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Fine and spiced if a touch reductive nebbiolo with notable wood off the top as well. A Cannubi concerned with spicing and seasoning, generously salted and of a marked peppery kick. Fruit really shows well on the palate and the mouthfeel does well to express the generous nature of the cru. Long and rewarding to tell us time is the ally and this Barolo will outlast a great many others. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Reticent, not reductive but somewhat closed. That said there is a creaminess to the aromatics, a lactic note and seasoning by scraped orange zest. Lots of wood here and a wine that speaks a language of honour and tradition. Dries a bit but is honestly par for the nebbiolo-Barolo course. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Nicely aromatic Cannubi, more so than the others in a flight of five, perfumed in floral ways and fruity to a great degree. Quite insular, implosive and tart after that with real tightness and tension upon the palate. Will live a good decade or more post haste in a period of quiet and resolution. Drink 2026-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

E. Pira E Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Classic Cannubi, perfumed and structured, rose to violet, acids and tannin. All of the above, heightened and then grippy, intense and ultimately long. Trenchant response to vintage for a nebbiolo of focus and reality. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barale F.Lli Di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2019

Odd entry, like play dough or yes indeed past water. Weak and pasty. Not great.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2019

Closed, lean, green and woody. Not a lot of fruit joy. Evergreen, brushy savour and so the character lies in these traits. A treatise between earth and stone, barrel and nebbiolo. What it is. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Camparo Barolo DOCG Coste Di Vergne 2019

Strong aromas, cru specific indeed, a Coste di Vergne speciality, hearty nebbiolo, heady and with healthy grip. No lack of substance or control in fact this Barolo takes the bull by the horns and rides astride. No fear here. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantine Dei Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo 2019

High-toned, acetic edgy and youthfully gritty nebbiolo from the ubiquity of the Barolo commune. Bones are strong and tradition runs high so appreciate this nebbiolo for what it is. The real deal. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Borgogno Barolo DOCG Fossati 2019

Top quality fruit, substantial and layered if also compressed and compact. Classicism incarnate, nebbiolo scents captured in every respect, fruit oil the naturally juicy sweet side and herbals equally so. Lovely palate mouthfeel, smooth and ever so slightly creamy, a suave texture derived and ready for what comes next. That being tannins as agreeable as all parts come before and the final context is a beautifully composed Fossati with great days ahead. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barale F. Lli Di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo Di Bussia 2019

Wood in every respect, vanilla and lavender, cloying and over the top. Evergreen and mint. Too much distraction.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bric Cenciurio Di Pittatore A E A Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2019

An herbal nebbiolo from Monrobiolo di Bussia, amaro like, cool and sweetly bitter. Aromatically speaking that is and then comes the darkness of night in the way of tannin, just after a real tang on the central palate. A winner of three parts, though not all together. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Borgogno Barolo DOCG 2019

No cru or MGA mention from this solid nebbiolo of traditional scents and taciturn behaviour. Good bones, chilled features and just enough freshness to handle the tannins in attack. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bric Cenciurio Di Pittatore A E A Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo Pittatore 2019

Once again a proper nebbiolo aromatic attack with no mention of MGA but here a clear and present pronouncement of commune. Barolo fruit for Barolo sake out of a vintage that complies and abides. Crunch and crust, earth and dust, fine lines and finer tension. Drying to a degree and the wood is just a bit over seasoned though time will help alleviate any pain. No undue stress in the end. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

L’Astemia Pentita Barolo DOCG 2019

The other nebbiolo from Barolo, fruit on the orange spectrum, juiced and zested, very much a sangiune and ochre citrus proposition. Also quite woody, vanilla and creamy on the palate, tannins serious. Quite dried out by the time the fruit has gone away but that is the nature of nebbiolo from a vintage like 2019. Time will begin the healing. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Roberto Sarotto Di Cavallotto Aurora Barolo DOCG Audace 2019

So much wood and no fruit as a result, or at last hidden beneath the sappy drip of vanilla and lavender.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Viberti Giovanni Barolo DOCG Buon Padre 2019

Tight and reductive, dark black cherry behind a wall of freshness and herbaceousness. Good acid-tannin structure and potential because there is a substantial amount of fruit kept safely tucked away. A top level nebbiolo without cru affiliation from Barolo. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo 2019

San Lorenzo cru in Barolo commune brings forth solid nebbiolo drupe with fine acids and more wood than some. That said the barrel seasoning in spiced terms is proper and supportive though the dried herbs and resins do compound over time. And so time is needed to soften these things but not too much because there is a softness on the other side of this wine. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019.

Reductive yet fruit juicy with a caper and dill acid addendum for a Barolo from Sarmassa that begins all over the map. Plenty of intensity and aromas to tell before transitioning to ample conditioning and substance upon the palate. So much going on in this wildly expressive wine and time will tell to see the settling, integration and positive consciousness. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantine Di Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019

The connective tissue between one Sarmassa to the next seems on display as here the early notes perceived go blood orange and also savoury caper. Yet this stays the citrus course with greater confidence and the juiciness of this nebbiolo is really quite special. Exhibits the right kind of tart and also a liquid chalkiness to speak of the earth, light clay and stone, in that sweet spot where fruit and tension collide. Tops for the cru and one that heeds the vintage with great distinction. Drink 2025-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019

The third of three Sarmassa exhibits the most barrel in fact it throws the toasted oak full force into the tobacco and roasting meat aromatics without holding back. Vanilla and spices, clove nut also nutmeg and cinnamon. Can imagine a fresh autumn evening with pumpkin and beef stewing side by side with this nebbiolo. Über classic Barolo.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castiglione Falletto

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Altenasso 2019

Altenasso presents a specialized and unique profile of a nebbiolo nosing of flowers fresh and dried but also fruit like persimmon and apricot. Chewy fruit, leathery, dried roll up and the similar ilk. Tannins are chalky and a bit gritty but they will melt, coordinate with the other parts and the transitions will surely smoothen. Nice wine, mid-term aging potential recognized and a good fit for Barolo. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2019

A barrel sample from Bricco Boschis and one of the more mature in this category, most parts resolved at least to a degree where seeing the goal is possible. Good connection between fresh and dried fruit, a bit leathery and certainly some maturity here. The tannins too though they are quite chalky and will take another five plus years to mostly resolve. There is a bit of Brett here, not egregious but definitely present. Drink 2024-2028.  Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Boroli Barolo DOCG Brunella 2019

Nice immediate depth noted in this Brunella cru from Castiglione Falletto commune, a nebbiolo of aromatic weave in texture out of design. Black cherry and also a dark blood orange, berry to citrus, no real earthiness at all. More evolution is felt on the palate as well as some unresolved sulphite. Lends a peppery kick and the wine is a bit out of sorts. Offer it some time. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Castiglione Falletto 2019

A nebbiolo from the commune of Castiglione Falletto with notable wood off the top and drying parts, in part because of the overuse of that oak. Simple wine from some solid fruit sources compromised by the producer’s cru divisioning. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo Docg Del Comune Di Castiglione Falletto 2019

Good fruit and bones, a nebbiolo of traditional quality and yeoman work done up from a vintage that encouraged such an operation. Wood felt more on the palate in vanilla to chocolate with dried herbs and clay to finish. Pretty traditional stuff. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Monprivato 2019

From Monprivato and the kind of aromatic juices that need be encouraged as often as possible. The roses and orange citrus, earthy sweetness and no wood to speak of. There are no let downs or pauses in this cru’s interpretation of Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo, only seamless transitions and beauty throughout. The tannins are just that correct mix of sweetness and tension, tactile and the taciturn. Yes, yes, please! Drink 2025-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Boroli Barolo DOCG 2019

Some evolution already with maturity of fruit in a raisin inflection. Tannins are equally mature and there are some sour notes overall. Drink up.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bovio Gianfranco Di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Parussi 2019

Lithe and citrusy, yet another blood orange cru for a vintage that seems to coax such notes without hesitation. Tart, tang, direct hits of acid and tannins doing much the same. Solid wine from the Parussi cru though not one to age forever. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rosoretto Barolo DOCG Parussi 2019

Once again Castiglione Falletto supplies a citrus stylistic through here there is as much pink grapefruit as there is blood orange. Seems lighter on the nose than on the palate as the texture goes a bit resiny and glycerin. Wood is a factor as noted by the chocolate and spices coming at the finish. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brovia Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

Rocche di Castiglione shows immediate structure from backbone and strong grip in ways the other Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo don’t seem to do. Darker fruit integrates cherry into the blood orange citrus and wood sidles on along with equal and opposing force. A seasoned and spiced nebbiolo yet one with good tannic structure and the ability to age. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

The second of two cru wines from Castiglione Falletto in the Rocche di Castiglione MGA is even darker of fruit and headier than the first. As are the acids and also the tannins, fierce and holding quite the level of structural tension. This is a formidably assembled and constructed nebbiolo and one that can surely live two decades or more. Drink 2026-2037.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Terre Del Barolo Arnaldo Rivera Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

This third iteration of Rocche di Castiglione is an anomaly in that the fruit is neither dark nor are the bones of this wine as upright and strong as the other two wines. That said there is a different sort of depth in here, more aromatic, more fruit up front and also an earth derivation that really speaks too this sense of cru in the commune of Castiglione Falletto. The wine falls off a bit when it comes to mouthfeel because the tannins really dry out and suck moisture away. Solid wine though and much more traditional in several ways. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2019

Scarrone is lighter of style for the commune of Castiglione Falletto and there is a great deal of barrel involved to decide the overall nebbiolo character. Chalky and with some grittiness, even a bit brittle I dare say. The ripeness is the heart of the matter and so time is an ally. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Villero 2019

Incredible uncanny scent of liquorice or as it is said fennel from this Vilierio cru nebbiolo out of the commune of Castiglione Falletto. The aromas persists and the flavours only accentuate the initial notes. Then come dried fruit in pods, like carbon and bokser, finishing at drying herbs and tannin. Traditional work here to be sure. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi E Cantine Oddero Barolo DOCG Villero 2019

A fine and loyal Viliero comes from this herbal and clay-earthy nebbiolo with Castiglione Falletto backbone and utmost certainty for decades of aging. The elévage for this cru-designate wine is beautifully purposed, neither old-school nor modern and just expertly designed straight in between. Fine example that works the glass with excellence. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monforte d’Alba

Cascina Sot Di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte D’Alba 2019

Interesting note of candied or almost crème brûlée of orange in a nebbiolo from Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba. Rich and concentrated, fruit dark and almost mysterious what with its chiaroscuro effect. The structure is very middle of the road and the tannins are peppery so yes this will be a fine mid term Barolo but nothing to imagine as existing in a bubble to visit twenty years forward. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Icollirossi Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Monforte d’Alba 2019

Dark cherry, equally citric and somewhat dusty nebbiolo comes from quality if quantified fruit sources adding up to ubiquitous Monforte d’Alba. A solid nebbiolo as Barolo, qualifying with exemplary distinction and just enough naturally curated swarthy character to give this wine its own personality. Tannins really dry away so give this two years minimum. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2019

There are rich and dark Monforte d’Alba Barolo and then there is this example, lighter, transparent and unencumbered. Cherries are red, leather is fresh and and oranges are juiced into the wine. Dry and savoury, roses also arid and the wine just keeps saying “let me be, drink me later.” Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Bricco San Pietro marches to a funky beat, apposite to many, akin to some of older heart and soul. It’s rhythms are unique, aromatics heady and flavours wild. Dark of berry fruit, sharp of acids and middling by tannin to speak of style but more so cru. Good fun, danceable Barolo, not one for the ages. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Brawny, haute and heady Bricco San Pietro in this glass so full, all in, concentrated and spoken of a matter of fact mind. Intensity of fruit intertwined with equally gregarious acidity, crunchy as nebbiolo, arrived in modernity, wine of open heart and mind. That said it’s a wine of solid construction and utilitarian architecture, built to impress and serve the people. Should do this well and with pride for a decade. Drink 2024-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Le Cecche Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Heady nebbiolo from Bricco San Pietro if more restrained then some others of its Monforte d’Alba cru ilk. Some swarthy peppery piques on the aromatics though subtle enough to stay in check. Cool savour mixed with black cherry does indeed put this in modern stance that is also grounded, balanced and hard to knock over. Really sturdy Barolo. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Big austere Barolo here from Monforte d’Alba in the cru of Bricco San Pietro with more than demanding tannins in fact they are the entire early attraction. Hard to see the fruit through the structure and the forest in a Barolo still stuck in wood. Extremely arid and tough. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Unusual aromatic entry, part pine forest and part Castelmagno cheese. Either something is amiss or the nebbiolo here just comes out a little differently. The palate improves on the situation with some fruit sweetness and the tannins are relatively amenable, at least as far as youth and nebbiolo are concerned. Wait two years and drink for seven. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Agricola Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Boozy nose on this Bussia with austere tannins that skulk, command and numb the wishful fruit. There is just too much extraction of structure for the purple-violet gang to find sweetness anytime in the near future. Ambitious and such trenchant desire puts this Bussia in a league of its own. Fearing that the waiting will be a minimum seven years before any real charm or natural fruit will begin to emerge. Drink 2026-2036.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

A fine and flirtatious Bussia here from the swinging esses of a valley that snakes through Monforte d’Alba for nebbiolo you just need to know more about. A great and soulful swarthiness initiates the kind of character to speak of a natural approach and an abiding of cru. Cool, savoury-sour-sweet and also umami balance with no lead taken and all aspects working in cohorts. A nebbiolo to revisit again and again, to make friends with, to know for life. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023.A fine and flirtatious Bussia here from the swinging esses of a valley that snakes through Monforte d’Alba for nebbiolo you just need to know more about. A great and soulful swarthiness initiates the kind of character to speak of a natural approach and an abiding of cru. Cool, savoury-sour-sweet and also umami balance with no lead taken and all aspects working in cohorts. A nebbiolo to revisit again and again, to make friends with, to know for life. Drink 2025-2038.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Darker of fruit and gainful of acidity, a Bussia that challenges tradition and accepts climate for how it will affect what is to come. A nebbiolo of strength across all parts and divides, moving through times of tension, built to last. It’s a different sort in certain respects and it deserves attention. It is part of the future. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Colla Barolo DOCG Bussia Dardi Le Rose 2019

Tart, orange tang, strong pressed and juiced nebbiolo out of Dardi Le Rose within Bussia. Bones are stronger than they might have first seemed to be and this 2019 heeds the vintage quite well. Nothing too cumbersome up front and a Barolo that builds with time. Par for the course and age-able while also acting just about agreeable as a wine from this vintage can be. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

High-toned Bussia, more than most, almost volatile but just hanging in long enough with fruit to match the air. Crunchy nebbiolo, tart and with great implosive intensity. Lingers for one of the longest cru finishes of the lot. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Orange off the top, a juice in which the roses swim and the cherries macerate. Lithe and transparent, Bussia light if you will or better yet a part of Bussia in vintage that directs such a transparency of style. Crisp and pure, one of the more focused Barolo from Monforte d’Alba although the wood is just a bit over onto the density defining way of this nebbiolo. Just the slightest lighter hand would have elevated this ’19 into the utter ethereal. In the meantime the wine will age very well because it’s so well balanced. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Amalia Cascina In Langa Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigna Fantini 2019

Rich and intense nebbiolo with more pinpointed dry accuracy as coming from Vigna Fantini within the larger Bussia. Doubles down on itself, concentrating a faction of the cru out of which there are glycerin citrus notes from head to tail, nose to palate. The parts are well synched in Fantini while the tannins persist with a fine elemental chalkiness though they are not overly demanding. A really fine example of a place within a place no doubt. Drink 2024-2033.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sara Vezza Barolo DOCG Castelletto Persiera 2019

Tart, and if there is some red fruit sweetness it stretches thin, dishy and somewhat dilute. Soapy like some would imagine cilantro and simple. Lacks concentration, clarity and ultimately structure. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

Closed as far as a Monforte d’Alba Barolo is concerned which increasingly seems to be a trait of the cru Castelletto. There feels to be some classic Barolo scents behind the veil, namely roses and cherries, tart, light and juicy. Good appellate, applet and palate presence to be sure, nothing extraordinary or out of the ordinary but balanced and promising. Will surely benefit from the bottle. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Castelletto Vigna Pressenda 2019

Funky and lactic Castelletto, orange rind and cheese crust too, tang in waves and acids very much the director of this nebbiolo cru’s attempt. Lean in the middle stages and austere at the finish. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fortemasso Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

Right, correct and proper Castelletto straight away, giving forth great richness of fruit and basically in delivery of all the finest attributes this cru could have from the vintage. Exemplary of 2019 without total struggle and this is nebbiolo that seems so comfortable in its own skin. Good chewy middle palate and welcoming throughout. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

The darkest of Castelletto fruit with full on Monforte d’Alba sun-grabbed extraction. Concentration is the result for a richness of nebbiolo fruit at the height of cru heights. Does it all up front and then tapers off, descending into denouement quicker than some but the ride was pleasurable. Pretty classy wine all in all if not one to age with for a decade. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Ginestra Barolo Riserva DOCG 2016

A wise, mature and resolved Barolo that now sits in a lovely state of nebbiolo calm and interprets “the nobility of the soil,” this according to Fabio Faccenda. Ginestra does indeed breathe of its micro-climate, in particular the Ligurian winds that blow through to influence vine cycles. A lovely state of grace at this stage for Ginestra, surely a Barolo with a full coat of barrel, integrated, seasoned and pretty much seamless at this stage. Dark chocolate and liquid cocoa mark the finish. Ready to go. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Vigna Sorì Ginestra 2019

Ginestra is of a higher tonal calling, black cherry fruit magnetized by balsamic and sweet leather. Opens up the olfactory like few others with peppery colts and volatile peaks. Cool and expansive through the middle though the void is filled with an austerity of variegate tannin. Not all perfect phenols here to speak of cru by way of vintage. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Alessandria Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2019

Gramolere is a lean, tart and tannic Barolo with little fruit joy up front. Quite tight, tough and austere, old school and herbal. Only time can heal the early wound and yet a wine of reserved fruit up front is not likely going to find heaps of natural sweetness later on. But it will always be Barolo. Drink 2025-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Amalia Cascina In Langa Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

Good bones and solid fruit give this Le Coste di Monforte Barolo the grounding and the tools to do right by vintage and carry a nebbiolo torch. This is precisely what 2019 has delivered and here the acceptance translates to exemplary mid-weight Barolo. It is especially proper because the tannins are just about spot on. Very good work. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

From 2019 and just a bit of a shift to the left with a sour-edginess that is a bit distracting while tannins are jilted austere in the other direction. Time will be of some assistance but things are just a bit off centre. Still there is a reasonable vintage sentiment drawn and for nebbiolo more than enough to go on. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

Deep and seasoned nebbiolo takes full advantage of 2019 for this well pressed and therefore concentrated Barolo. Well representative of Le Coste di Monforte though not to be the longest ager of them all. Good acidity and quality tannins are supportive if a bit verdant overall. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abbona Di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Pressenda 2019

A cask sample and one quite ready it seems as witnessed by the gregariousness of the aromas. Part dark cherry and part swarthy, full formed and intense. Tight Barolo for Monforte d’Alba, of strong voice and deep intention. Drink 2025-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

 

With Giorgio Boschis

E. Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2019

Lovely aromatic swirl from this Monforte d’Alba Barolo, a nebbiolo of liquorice and black cherry but more than that a full on swell of that fruit mixed with high acidity and heavy tannin. A big example, all in while also well-balanced, especially considering the concentration, extraction and heft. If it seems to miss the deft touch of some cru wines that’s youth talking and this surely impresses in so many respects. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castelletto 2019

A bit of restraint on this Barolo that wants to be aromatic, no reduction per se but definitely a closed initialization. Plenty of attitude and swagger, confidence and knowhow. Dark cherry fruit for sure and a cool almost minty middle before relenting to a forceful and capable set of tannins. Proper and very correct example from Monforte d’Alba to represent Barolo, nebbiolo and 2019 with great distinction. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Parusso Armando Di Parusso F. Lli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2019

Aromas are heady and a bit dank, of creosote, graphite and other wood-derived resins that dominate the front. Wet pine and also cedar, orange chocolate and too much oily to sappy intensity. Quite out of whack.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Treturne 2019

Solid and correct Barolo from Monforte d’Alba, purely and expressly nebbiolo if a bit over-extracted, boozy and even jammy. Good chewy dark cherry and liquorice though of a sour set of flavours. Persimmon and fig, some over maturity and sliding forward with haste. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Réva Barolo DOCG 2019

Nice citrus display, red and orange, into pomegranate and currants. Tart Barolo with vintage tang, idiomatic of Monforte d’Alba and solid throughout. Getting the roses and the tar, all the right moves, a vintage wine that does things with great correctness. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Del Nebbiolo Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Lovely example of 2019 Barolo with the ethereal aspect of Perno in Monforte d’Alba though also a wine with a highly perceptible presence of wood. The juxtaposition of bright red currant and rosy fruit against vanilla and spice is currently a disparate proposition though time will do wonders to bring the parts together. Will flesh out as a result and surely be a very different wine five-plus years down the road. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Raineri Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Repeatable style it feels, as Perno though fruit here is a darker reddish orange with some earthiness involved. Leads to an easier tumble with the acids in particular but also the level of barrel involved. Integrates well at this early stage and the prospects for a clean and seamless future looks good indeed. Great structure here and a Barolo from Monforte d’Alba that should live well. Drink 2025-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Schiavenza Di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Funky and separately volatile, overheated and while trying to be a lithe and transparent Perno there is no hiding from the acetic meanderings and wood spice in full on smoulder. Ends up being tart, tight and austere. Drink 2025-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

A verdant evergreen dominated Perno from the top, wet pine forest and cool savoury herbals, even a shot or two of Amaro. Similarly styled on the palate, chewy liquorice, blanched fennel and more of the same on repeat. Very tannic. A wine with character though one that is of an idiosyncratic kind. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017

Barolo

Gomba Barolo Boschetti Riserva DOCG 2017

If Riserva smells like Riserva and Riserva acts like Riserva then it must be Riserva. The wisdom in aromatics from experience determine this 2017 as it must, in controlled concentration and of a maturity that speaks to grounding, not evolution. And yet this is just so very 2017 in the earthy but also edgy behaviour, somewhere between rustic and glorious. Clearly haute conditioning for the vintage and a Barolo from Boschetti cru that will live as long as any. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Viberti Giovanni Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2017

Bricco delle Viole and 2017 are stand alone and though we are seeing this two years advanced from current vintage 2019 Barolo there is something about this Riserva that speaks to it having always been this way. Swarthy and woollen that is, but so bloody characterful and with chalky tannins yet to resolve. This is a Barolo of strength that moves with elasticity, bending and stretching, working its muscles and biding time. Another year or so and there will be more elegance involved. Truly complex Barolo Riserva indeed. Drink 2024-2031.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 202

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Barolo Riserva DOCG Sarmassa Vigna Bricco 2017

Sarmassa as Riserva is quite intense from 2017, aromatically speaking, indicating a concentration and compacting of rose petals and sweet herbs. A handsome nebbiolo, firm and reserved, wearing a serious face and clearly built for long aging. Perhaps as long as any 2017 Riserva will. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castiglione Falletto

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacosa Fratelli Barolo Riserva DOCG Scarrone Vigna Mandorlo 2017

Scarrone out of Castiglione Falletto is a deep one from 2017, of extreme ripeness and an almost brooding character with baritone voice. Very tannic on top of deep, dark and cimmerian fruit, compact and of more density than most. Nothing left to resolve (for the most part) and these next five years will be the best. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rosoretto Barolo Parussi Riserva DOCG 2017

Parussi as Riserva 2017 is the most fruit juicy and accessible of them all. Red berries in the wild strawberry to raspberry with great sour tang and fine supportive acidity. Structure is one and done so drink this wine sooner rather than later. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Morra

San Biagio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco San Biagio 2017

Barrel sample so take it with a grain of salt through five-plus years in there should always be plenty to learn and figure out. Bricco San Biagio presents a lithe and transparent nebbiolo, regardless of appellation and this one is all red roses, many of them in a drying state. Lots of perfume but not tremendously complex. Some dried herbs and tannin doing the same. Further time in cask will not do this nebbiolo any favours. Drink 2024-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rocche Costamagna Barolo Riserva DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2017

Once again the resolution is in while the chances for revolution are past. Full and purposed Riserva here from Rocche dell-Annunziata, plenty of formidable tannin and the kind of exercise to speak of traditional values. Wait one more year but the nebbiolo here is well on its way. Time to bottle! Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind from a cask sample at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monforte d’Alba

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2017

Grippy, firm and tannic Riserva 2017, transparent and yet elevated in glycerin, minty cool and dried herbal savoury. Yes, particularly tannic stuff here from Bricco San Pietro in Monforte d’Alba, fruit more than ready, structure always in charge. Must have traditional Piedmontese cuisine to make this one sing. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

And then there is Bussia, big and broad, muscular yet of a wide berth and shoulders stretching far and wide. Complexity of aromatics as classic as they come, tar and roses, cherries and leather. Perfectly repeatable on the palate, even keeled despite its tension and grip. A Barolo that is so bloody real and knowable, not one of fantasy and imagination. For the true collector. Drink 2024-2034.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Ettore Fontana Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Here the lightest and most transparent nebbiolo known to the Langhe in that triad of origin, for Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 out of Bussia in Monforte d’Alba. See right through this lithe one and use creativity in imagination to consider just how beautiful it surely has too be. The enchantress, the elegance of elegance, body, flesh and bones all perfect and in synch, a relationship between all, as one. A nebbiolo for which place of origin and vines have forged a union to last forever. There is neither rush to begin drinking nor haste to see the future. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Stroppiana Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Bussia is the largest of the crus and so there is no surprise that nebbiolo comes away quite different from producer to producer. This Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 is a darker, richer and more mature one though it’s not necessarily a question of ripeness. Extraction yes and also maceration. Expect both in this ’17 but also some drying tannins, peppery piques and a moment of unresolved sulphites. Really gets into the olfactory. A touch problematic and still needs to settle down. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Yet another Bussia unlike the others, here with some mature Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 fruit and a gentle woolliness. Quite tart and chalky, rustic to a pretty notable degree. Tannins are still gritty. Drink 2024-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fortemasso Barolo Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2017

Haughty aromatic Castelletto from out of Monforte d’Alba commune matched by a fulsome, glycerin and dark berry set of flavours. A 2017 that’s all in with great ripeness and a cool evergreen middle. Warms at the finish and feels a bit elevated in alcohol but finds peace in maintaining balance. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anselma Famiglia Barolo Riserva DOCG Adasi 2017, Più Communi

Deep, broad, wide breadth of more than one commune’s fruit composition, classic dark and modern fruit-styled Barolo. In terms of Riserva DOCG 2017 this fulfills the appellate warrant with concentration if not complexity. It will impress on a professional level if not a cerebral one. It’s good don’t get me wrong but not a nebbiolo of either fantasy or soul. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Negretti Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Ambrogio Indio 2017, Roddi

An impressive Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 because of its balance between concentration and structure with a wildly fresh berry set of aromatics. A Bricco Ambrogio nebbiolo in full open bloom right now, much of its structure exorcized and with acidity marching along every step of the way. A modern iteration drinking really well though with edgy tannins that seek salty protein for best results. Ready for Roddi. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Serralunga d’Alba

Enrico Serafino Barolo Riserva DOCG Briccolina 2017 

Briccolina out of Serralunga d’Alba is on the fulsome, opaque and ropey side of nebbiolo and yet there is a litheness of being that allows it to breath quite freely. In others words a Barolo Riserva 2017 spoken though modern vernacular, far away from ancient Piedmointese dialect. Suave and smooth, liquid chalky and just nearing the opening gambit of its play. Drink 2024-2029.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Réva Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2017

Lazzarito is a conundrum as a cru because the nebbiolo from its Serralunga d’Alba soils can make for strange wines and also those that are simply brilliant. It is the Bourgogne of Barolo, fickle, challenging and of highest potential. This Riserva 2017 finds the great track, in delivery of fine and beautiful fruit, sweetest acidities and essential underlying structure. Both gorgeous and built to last. Extreme modernity too. Drink 2025-2035.  Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007 and Barolo DOCG 2009

Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007, Barolo

Nearly 16 years of age, not exactly a cool or middle of the road vintage and so great showing here from Marchese di Barolo. Impeccably orchestrated nebbiolo in fact with no cru mention but the level of freshness is impressive. Hard to believe in a way, but hey if anyone could have been capable it would be the Marchesi via the famiglia Abbona. Dark raspberry and cherry with sweet reduced balsamic and great persistence. Everything at the right pace in its right place. “Pace!” Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007, Più Communi

Age is very apparent, tartufo and balsamic well engaged and freshness a thing of the past. The aspect of this Barolo Riserva 2007 that keeps the pace is acidity and a liquid chalkiness of the tannin, even a bit grainy still. Will gain complexity and interest with another few years as those last two aspects soften, but fruit will always be a thing of the past. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

A most unique aromatic emission from Brezza’s 2009 Barolo which is truly indicative of traditional winemaking in an era old enough to be considered historical. Very nutty aromas now, roasted chestnut and toasted hazelnut, still chalky and acids working the wine. A faint linger or at least a reminiscence of fresh fruit but mostly kernel and earth at this point. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Di Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Paiagallo 2009, Barolo

Quite typical for 13-14 year old Barolo with secondary drifting into tertiary aromas of nuts, earth and spiced vegetals. The mouthfeel here is exceptional and the wood has done well to create this feeling. Some emotion in this wine. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

Giacomo Fenochio’s Cannubi is something completely different as it is compared to the other ‘09s and shares a moment or two with its own style looking forward 10 years to the Anteprima 2019. The fruits are all there; cherry, plum and orange, macerating in their combined juices and so to be such a fruity wine at this age is something special. Spice and balsamic as well but no real secondary push. Lots of wood though with chocolate all over the finish. For the style this has been done really well. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2009, Barolo

Sarmassa remains in very good shape from the 2009 vintage though the warmth has advanced the fruit even beyond that of the 2007 Riserva, all from non specified Barolo commune vineyards. The tartufo has begun too take hold of the aromas, along with wood derived accents like soy and older tar. Smooth as silk to no real surprise and a nebbiolo to drink with braised beef cheek or classic tajarin. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Virna Di Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

And now for something completely different. Barolo DOCG 2009 by Virna di Borgogno is the nebbiolo of highest tonality, of volatility that persists without fully taking over the wine. The tannins are also amazingly persistent all the while there just really isn’t much fruit left in the mix. So much curiosity here. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavallotto Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2009, Barolo

Bricco Boschis by Cavollotto is a wild thing, a savage of nebbiolo that no other 2009 can touch. By far the most complex Barolo of this retrospective tasting and while it may seem even a bit peppery and woolly there is so much going on you simply do not know where to begin. I would wager that this Barolo is less than halfway into its tenure and the best is yet to come. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2009, La Morra

Fine, mildly funky and surely earthy older Barolo here from Aurelio Settimo of the most traditional and abiding kind. All the expectations are met and aromas extended. From balsamic to soy, toasted nuts to caramelized orange. Very complex, very classy stuff. Plenty of life yet to live. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2009, La Morra

Quite evolved, creamy and a seriously oaky 2009 Barolo. Sweetness in a way like no other. Drink 2023.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Conca 2009, La Morra

Plum fleshed and spiced, tart and sweet as well, a hallmark of 2009 and when nebbiolo was made this way. Lots of wood and yet that fruit persistence melds well with how much time was spent inside, but also in the kind of barrels used. Showing beautifully and drinking equally so. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2009, Monforte d’Alba

All chocolate and in so many respects a wine of wood and not much else. At this stage the 2009 Barolo from Cascina Chicco out of Monforte d’Alba’s Castelletto is out of fruit and nearly out of time. Drinks like old wines bathed in barrel will, beautiful for family and friends. Drink 2023-2024.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2009, Monforte d’Alba

Still a touch off reduction which is always quite amazing considering how many years gone by should have left this aspect behind. Toasted nuts and smoked meat define the tone in a nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba that carries its Le Coste cru as a reminder of speciality until today. Famiglia Anselma’s 2009 is showing with haute distinction and kudos to the deft touch. This is an older Barolo in great shape. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Paolo Manzone Barolo DOCG Meriame 2009, Serralunga d’Alba

Meriame by Paolo Manzone still exhibits some red cherry and plum fruit so that is a great positive for a 13-14 year-old Barolo. The persistence in balance and relationship between fruit and acidity is commendable with help by tannins that have all but finished their yeoman work. Finishes with just a few grains but for the most part this wine sings as it was meant to do. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2009, Serralunga D’alba

Sordo Giovanni’s 2009 from Gabutti cru has hit the soft caramel and toffee stage with nary a moment of fruit lingering in the nether. Nuts and spice are there along with pretty persistent tannins, no doubt as a by-product of this hard, rocky and antediluvian terroir on the angular side of Barolo. Still needs years though as mentioned there won’t be fruit around when the time comes to that fruition. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Alessandria Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2009, Verduno

Behold the excellence and power of Monvigliero to plod across nearly a decade and a half of time and emerge with vital energy and fruit, untamed and unscathed. This is terrific nebbiolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s in a really terrific place. Great showing! Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Library vintages

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Altenasso 2018

A mix of Castiglione Falletto soils in clay, tufo and calcari prepare this Altenasso for its 24 month stay in grandi botti. A big and broad shouldered nebbiolo, quite glycerin of consistency and well adapted in the face of chaos, challenge and finally the heat of the vintage. Wasn’t simple or easy and the complexities here are a reflection of the stress but the final equation sees a Barolo both clean and pure. Five spice powder makes for some exotica and the tannic texture echoes that dusty and fluffy tufo feeling. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG 2018, La Morra

In 2018 Alberto Burzi decided not to bottle any single vineyard nebbiolo and so all that important fruit has been committed to the classico. All from La Morra vineyards, some vines 85 years of age and other in the 35-40 range. Saw 35 days of cappello sommerso maceration, a technique normally reserved for Capalot, Roncaglie and La Serra. Alberto’s is truly stylish Barolo because he made the right decisions. This ’18 is rich yet elastic and proportionally in balance. Consider it a super cru example of La Morra. Drink 2024-2030.  Tasted January 2023

E. Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Via Nuova 2018

Via Nuova is a blend of three communes fruit: Serralunga, Monforte and Barolo, the latter of which is the home cantina for Chiara and Giorgio Boschis. Winemaking is the same as the Langhe nebbiolo though the Barolo spends two years in 50-50 cask and barriques. From a really warm season and so “2018 is for drinking immediately,” says Giorgio, though that would not likely have been the case six months to a year ago. Has now moved ahead with expedience and prowess, sitting in that proverbial state of elegance and grace. This despite the race to ripeness, inclusive of tannins so sweet, sound and worthy. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted January 2023

Alberto Cordero

Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo DOCG Bricco Gattera 2018, La Morra

Alberto Cordero explains how a particular clone provides the smallest of berries raised on the Gattera hill at the centre of his Cordero Di Montezemolo estate. “A really challenging vintage,” remembers Cordero, “rainy in April and May, impossible to walk in the vineyards, very unstable. In June, so much mildew. Then good, dry and hot for the rest of the season. In the end it was stability and balance that exerted the all important influence on richness and juiciness. Clear, equanimous Barolo, of fruit and grip connected by glycerin and sweetness. Not overtly tannic and is already beginning to resolve. From an early 2023 vantage point this nebbiolo is precisely classic. Surely a success created by the work put in, especially in the vineyard back in the early part of the season. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted January 2023

With Riccardo Bera

Bera Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2017, Monforte d’Alba

From this vintage the fruit is not 100 per cent Bera and just shortly thereafter the Bera family purchased a portion of the famous Monforte cru. This is the first and only trial vintage before the purchase but the focus was on acquiring a piece. Straight away the dry and brushy vintage while some red fruit freshness persists. Some austerity yet starting, to advance, mature and soften. The reconciliation and full recovery may be a year or two away but this nebbiolo is showing the signs. Quality precursor to what is coming form the new plantation and Bera’s full control of their own Mosconi Barolo destiny. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted January 2023

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Fiasco 2016, Castiglione Falletto

Only 700 bottles were produced of this first and still only example of Cavalier Bartolomeo’s Riserva called Fiasco. The word can of course mean the same in English but could also refer to a flagon, carafe or as many remember, the straw wrapped bottles of Chianti. Would think the reference here is more about tension and classic nebbiolo structure out of a vintage overflowing with such features. Only the newest, freshest and toastiest barrels were used yet there is an impressive integration of parts. The mention of Fiasco is fantasy but the fruit source is the same Altennaso cru as that “menzione” Barolo. High calcareous soils lend a lightning streak and strike to this very wooded nebbiolo with great distractive ability. Quality is apposite to quantity in a Barolo of truly singular nature. Drink 2025-2032.  Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2016, Più Communi

A blend of five villages (50 percent Serralunga with Monforte d’Alba, La Morra, Grinzane and Novello) and seven total vineyards. “Please do not call this fucking normale,” pleads Cesare Benvenuto and he’s not joking. There is in fact nothing regular or ubiquitous about this serious and trenchantly purposed cuvée. No pedantic character but instead a going concern of Barolo places. Only 7,000 bottles are made so do the math and understand the problem. Poignancy and nebbiolo so pretty. “For me, from my heart and taste,” says Benvenuto, “in my point of view this is the way to make true Barolo.” Hard to argue when the years have aided and abetted, brought this 2016 to a place where you can feel what makes this vision a reality. Good to go and almost surely for another 10 years in much the same way. Remove the emotion and accept the science. Drink 2025-2032.  Last tasted January 2023

A blend of communes for true estate blending business. Rich and developed dark fruit that goes for broke right from the word go. Also major tannins of mean business and some final bitters. No turning back from this one. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Three years later and Bussia is still a baby. There may be some signs of advancement but they are whispers and so it remains status quo for this most statuesque Barolo. So fresh, so stable.  Last tasted January 2023

Welcome to Bussia. This is the prudent one, far from promiscuous and very promising. Hides everything and is not so fast to give anything away. The textural components are all together; chew, crunch, soft and crackling. Grooves slowly and changes tempo. Not sure which way it will go but its subtlety and its impression will not be denied. From Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2009

A cuvée of two vineyards, Bussia and Santa Maria, from Monforte d’Alba and Barolo. The word means “more than better” in local Piedmontese dialect and for the Marrone sisters Pichmej is their grandfather Carlo’s Barolo. Spends 30 months in grandi botti to emerge silky and smooth, especially with conditioning having brought this nebbiolo into what is now a fully mature stage. Has entered the drying moments of its fruit years and overall the evolution of tenure is pretty much complete. A lovely position to be in. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted January 2023

G. D. Vajra Albe Barolo DOCG 2008

A vintage that was picked late and to this day wells with freshness and tension. So intact, tactful and nosing of tar, candied rose petal and liquorice. Frozen in a perfect moment of time, just musky enough to think about roasted meats and also caramelizing vegetables. A thank you to Isidoro Vaira for bringing out this older Barolo that clearly shows challenging it is to assess wines like these when they are so young.  Last tasted January 2023.

“Lovely smelling red though at first blind I’m not sure I’d place a heavy bet on it turning up same suit Nebbiolo. Wait, something Piemontese this way comes on the flop; dried roses, nearing potpurri, though covered in a grainy melt of chocolate and wood. A river of tannin and mouth cleansing acidity rounds out the flush. At $40 it’s a good red, if not a fine Barolo.  Tasted February 2014

Good to go!

godello

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WineAlign

Yearning for the Langhe

Godello in Cherasco

My kingdom for an Albese plate of Tajarin at Osteria dei Sognatori or a platter of Plin at Ristorante La Libera. What a wine writer would not do for a Langhe reprise, a Piedmontese redux, a tasting of any Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Dogliani, Alba or Langhe Barbera and Nebbiolo, Langhe Roero Arneis, Na’Scetta e Favorita. Were things normal and they most certainly are not, but were life being lived now as it was one year ago we would be convening in Alba in two weeks time. What I would not give to break bread with a winemaker, colleague or friend in Piemonte.

Related – Barolo DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2016, Riserva 2014, 2006 and Riserva 2004

Mark these words. The two specialized and specific DOCs of Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo will gain prominence and become a two-headed beast in 2021. The world will gather to exult, raise up and drink these fine and vastly underrated examples of classified nebbiolo. Of this I became truly privy to one year ago but also throughout 2020 as more and more nebbiolo came to be assessed across my desk. Yes it was back in January 2020 when I travelled to Alba in Piemonte for Nebbiolo Prima 2020 and Grandi Langhe. I tasted more than 600 nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, arneis, freisa, chardonnay, pelaverga and even riesling during the eight day work staycation. Grande.

Grandi Langhe 2020

Related – Barbaresco DOCG previews and retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2015, 2007 and 2005

Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe Trade Fair are a back-to-back cumulative by the work of many, not the least of which are organizations such as Consorzio Albeisa, a.k.a Unione Produttori Vini Albesi, Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Consorzio Tutela del Roero and Regione Piemonte. During that trip I tasted and reviewed 230 Barolo: DOCG 2016 (197), Riserva DOCG 2014 (6), DOCG 2006 (20) and Riserva DOCG 2004 (7). For Barbaresco the number was 92: DOCG 2017 (59), DOCG 2015 (15), DOCG 2015, 2007, 2009 and 2005 (18). As for Roero DOCG, 38 notes: DOCG 2017 and 2016 (33) and DOCG 2006 and 2007 (5).

Related – Roero DOCG Previews and Retrospectives: 2017, Riserva 2016, 2007 and Riserva 2006

Here’s to hoping for a return at any point in 2021, or in 2022 for the 25th Nebbiolo Prima followed by Grandi Langhe, if that’s how it will be. In the meantime here are 44 further reviews of wines tasted in and around Alba back in January, 2020. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Barbera d’Alba DOCG, Verduno Pelaverga DOC, Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC, Langhe Favorita DOC, Roero Arneis DOC, Langhe Rosato DOC, Vino Rosso and Birbét. Care Langhe, spero di tornare presto.

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC

Diego Morra Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2016

F.rom northern facing vineyards that receive no direct sun so essentially a cool Langhe climate. Nebbiolo that sees a short maceration and French wood. Not your everyday or expected nebbiolo in a really light and transparent style. Extremely fresh and refreshing, taut, high-toned and yet this creamy texture. Richer than half-and-half, perhaps like 20 per cent fat though lactose free and not enough to be whipped. So different. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Nebbiolo d’Alba Doc Bric Merli 2017

From the vineyard directly in front of Bric Volta. A lighter, but far from unstructured nebbiolo with a new and certain grace and still unmistakeable Canale DNA. Here you can mark another reference point, not to mention the genetic and torch passing material provided by 650 years of history, information and accumulation in experience. The demeanour is confident and gracious. Who would not want a glass every night? Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC Parigi 2017

Comes from the same type of marly soil as the barbera, here out of vineyards located in the villages of Alba and Diano d’Alba. The vines are around 20 years of age and the wine sees one year in (30 per cent new) American 40L and French 30L barrels. The idea is to draw out soft and elegant tannins, especially by the American oak. That much is true in a nebbiolo heading towards that direction though not quite yet there. A return in two to three years should do the trick. Drink 2021-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Nebbiolo Langhe DOC

Elvio Cogno Nebbiolo Langhe DOC Montegrilli’ 2018

A name taken from Valter Fissore’s grandfather’s vineyard in the Roero, not Barolo and yes this is a nebbiolo and a wine to drink. Immediately gratifying in so many ways. From vineyards on the other side of Novello, southwest exposure and very sandy soil with just a minor amount of sandstone. Fragolina di bosco and white raspberry, a juicy wine that can quench your thirst. Just a minor grip and chalk of tannin. Hardly causes any confusion and allows you to sip and sip and sip. Grill some fish and Montegrilli’s your friend. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2018 ($27.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

From two vineyards, one in La Morra (estate) and one in Roero. Less than a year in old, large barrels and a purposeful one, for early and often drinking enjoyment. Bright fruit, easy, forward and will surely solicit many a happy palate for dual-drawn, doubling down pleasure. Floral, well made and proper. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Bollito Misto, Sinio

Azienda Agricola Taverna Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018

Declassified nebbiolo from Barbaresco with mildly candied fruit, slightly oxidative, but charming. Only been in bottle maximum one month. Drink 2020.  Tasted February 2020

Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018 (454017, $32.95, Le Maitre de Chai)

Youngest vines in the Basarin Vineyard at 18 years old grown in sand and clay at the foot of Neive. The Langhe nebbiolo sees 20-30 days on skins (as opposed to 30-40 for the Barbaresco), ferments naturally and at low temperatures. Glaring as a vintage with a big grin on its face, unprecedented concentration, healthy extraction and completed by elevated dry extract. Incredible intensity for the appellation, something already noted in 2015 but bears repeating, like a mantra, for kicks, compliments, giggles and kudos. The Piedmontese maceration brings so much texture and chromatic accents; tangerine, vermillion, sorrel and umber. Longer maceration, less wood (four months) and no love lost for aging, not to mention waxing rhapsodically on. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Osteria dei Sognotori, Alba

Barolo DOCG

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2015

Pichmej is a combination of two vineyards, Bussia and Santa Maria, what Valentina and sister’s Serena and Denise Marrone call “our grandfather’s wine.” Who happened to be Carlo. A nebbiolo that you really can drink now but then again that’s the thing about young Marrone Barolo. They and this ’15 Pichmej display a sense of the ethereal in their youth. Nature in conjunction with nurture, a delicate touch and phenolic regulation to near perfection. If you would like to access the portal into the reality of how nebbiolo needs to be made in modern times then begin right here and know what’s what in 2020. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2015

Compared to Pichmej this nebbiolo from Bussia is a step up in concentration and also structure, the latter being in kinship with Bussia 2016. That said there is absolutely zero compromise to the stylistic execution that makes for a Marrone Barolo. Simulates the phenolic beauty of Pichmej and of ’16 but the fullest, deepest and most complete journey happens here. Enologist Donato Lanati has coaxed the fruit but not the bitters while the sisters Marrone find excellence in completing Bussia and all the rest. Lightness of being is also accrued while the wine clocks in at a hidden 15 per cent alcohol. Magic happens and success follows. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Baudana 2015

From Serralunga d’Alba and the apposite Barolo cru, forceful, grippy, demanding, always mired in posit tension tug. That alone explains no differing opinion but pay attention to the kind of “tensione” Adelaide’s creates. The numbered beats are off, out of time, or at least not understood in fours, yet orchestrated and aligned as they should be. As in five or taking the fifth, with a spoonful of notes, lines, vocalizations and structural arrangements feeling like they are unanswered. A vintage that men are dumbfounded by but girls can tell. Baudana is a hyper real get together of brushy aromas, dedicated flavours and highly functional architecture. This one stretches and creates an elastic musculature, flexible and persistent. Wouldn’t mess with Baudana. Drink 2020-2031.  Tasted January 2020

Simone Ortale and Giuliana Drocco, Cascina Adelaide

Cascina Adelaide Barolo Riserva DOCG “Per Elen” 2014

A blend of two cru and says Simone Ortale “we choose the best to make Riserva. It’s our jewel.” The same grandi botti (as per Preda and Cannubi) but here 62 months of aging time. The most mouthfeel, filling and the silkiest chalky liquidity, tannins and layering of multifarious, mille-feuille multiplicity. A nebbiolo for the decades. Drink 2022-2035.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo DOCG Gomba 2015

A smooth, elastic, stretched and elongated nebbiolo from the Commune of Barolo and Boschetti’s estate fruit. Drawn off of the higher reaches and also some that is sold to Marchesi di Barolo. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2015

Sernìe is the cru inside the cru, a selection within the selection and a word in Piedmontese dialect that essentially means just that. Surely the richer, more concentrated, fully stretched, entirely elastic and truly elongated nebbiolo. Has the violets, purple fruit, foie gras and decadence. Drink 2021-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2012

This older version of the cru within the cru comes from a very select parcel and as an estate flagship nebbiolo is only produced in select vintages. The formidable 2012 season made a request that winemakers (in this case Maurizio Delpero) did not try to extract too much fruit which would also mean an excess of tannin. Yet Boschetti’s Sernìe was subjected to a Piedmontese 40-day maceration (a cappello sommerso), a classic technique that eight years later establishes an exaggeration of nebbiolo riches. Was also a generous vintage that saw to healthy fruit and quantity. Serious Barolo right here. Drink 2020-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Crudo – La Libera, Alba

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG 2015

From the river between La Morra and Verduno, two plots with separate soils and expositions to combine for a double cru cause and effect. Balanced and dynamic, a nose of power meeting finesse. No winding or cinching but more a zig-zagging, ying versus yang, AC-DC, nebbiolo going both ways. Lovely spice. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barolo DCOG Monvigliero 2015

From four hectares in the Verduno cru and the three Ms, Mosca, La Morra and Monvigliero. The V in the middle is for Verduno. The 2015 nebbiolo is a really pretty one, floral and understated but of obvious power. Near formidable in its restraint with bursting a real possibility at any near moment. Not quite there yet but it’s coming, it’s real, leaving meaning. “In a room made of stone your future was made.” Wait for it. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Bricco Pernice 2015

Ages three years in wood, one year further in barrel. One hundred per cent Lampia clone. A little bit more classic in terms of what is Barolo. The partridge is a special hill and a place that gives away these highly specialized nebbioli and 2015 is on the border between a red and a black vintage. More black then red. A vintage that will be so right and so joyous in middle age and ideal for salty (aged) cheese and meat. Splendido nebbiolo. Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted January 2020

With Valter Fissore

Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera DOCG Vigna Elena 2014

Rosa clone of Ravera, not quite yet released (will be in three months), dedicated to daughter Elena. A registered menzione geografica named many years ago so the size on the label is set above the DOCG. More of a Bourgogne style. Rose petals and potpourri. Red fruit and red citrus so obviously a red year. Cured like salumi, bresaola maybe or at least eat some alongside. A touch vegetal and that is ’14, sun-dried vegetable and yes, like pinot noir. The first vintage was 1997. Drink 2024-2036.  Tasted January 2020

The quality of the wines gives everyone at Mauro Sebaste every reason to smile

Mauro Sebaste Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2015

Less weight and density in 2015, both in Serralunga fruit and also tannin. Much interest here in how it intimates the richesse of ’16 but not the youthful aggression of the tannin. More freshness, linearity and understanding. No hard edges, really easy to like and enjoy and enough grip to see it develop nicely over the next seven plus years. Might even last longer than imagined. Drink 2020-2027.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barolo Riserva DOCG Ghè 2014

Ghè is the Riserva of Cerretta fruit but only the smallest berries are chosen. A mega clonal version per se, a Cerretta of Ceretta. Celebrates and argues the merits of a challenging vintage, spends 36 months in tonneaux and like the Cerretta there is pure and substantial fruit. Acidity and tannin too, more than you might imagine considering the wood. Tension and grace live side by side and this is just beginning to act like it will for its essential and optimum 10 year window. Drink 2020-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba DOCG 2016

A true commune Barolo drawn off of a scattering of vineyards, a Serralunga liqueur warming, comforting and reliable, plus a vintage tannin more stringent and yet to crack. Spent two years in grandi botti plus six further months in bottle. Of roses and tar, youthfulness and tension aboard a nicely balanced and upright frame. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Riserva DOCG San Bernardo 2013

The “oriental plot,” from the other side of the Ornato cru and a nebbiolo to speak of extended elévage just as it should. Now into a balsamico cadence and a tartufo lilt. A matter of funghi, acciuga and back to that truffled sensibility. So much umami, the anchovy sitting like a salty and briny slice of maritime butter on toasted crostini with shavings both pencil and earthen nuggets in origin. Oh how the feeling of the block and the greater Piedmontese emanates from one glass of Barolo that only San Bernardo seems capable of gifting. The secondary nature of this nebbiolo is astonishing, if like Christmas come early but why not celebrate now? Should keep developing, morphing, giving again and again. Drink 2020-2030.  Tasted January 2020

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2004 (713479, Halpern Enterprises)

Has quite obviously rounded into form, now beautifully rich and preserved. Poured from magnum yet showing all of its age, fruit sweetly hanging in the balance and as a whole an elegant nebbiolo worthy of the reference. Drink 2020-2024.  Last tasted January 2020

Of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C.  Tasted April 2012

Cherasco

Barbaresco DOCG

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Comes from one vineyard, the top part of the hill, Gaia Principe it’s called, one of four that make Barbaresco in the MGA. Quick maceration, only seven days, not very Piedmontese and because the house tradition is to make wines to drink and drink now. A very fresh nebbiolo, sweetly perfumed, clear, pure and precise. Drink this most days. No good reason not to. Drink 2020-2025.  Last tasted February 2020

Very ripe and organized, developed and heading forward with great haste. Acids are brighter than some so there is light streaking through the Neive vintage darkness. Another example that speaks to the great variability in 2017. Drink 2020-2024.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Barbera d’Alba DOCG

Cascina Adelaide Vigna Preda Barbera d’Alba 2016

Same vineyard as the nebbiolo for the Preda Barolo but here the barbera fruit is notable deeper and darker. Spends up to 18 months in big barrel and high acidity for Alba with just the right and deft touch of necessary volatile acidity. Rich, luxurious and lovely. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barbera D’alba Superiore Docg Amabilin 2016

Named after the creator himself Amabile Drocco who as a child was called Amabilin. The name chosen for the wine pays homage to the family’s origins. The yields are ridiculously low (half a kilo per vine) from 3,000 kg per hectare that represents half of the consorzio’s disciplanare rule. So concentrated and a true gem in the Adelaide portfolio, in fact this is truly one of the tops in all of what is labeled Superiore. Includes eight to ten per cent Barolo fruit but not that which might end up as DOC Nebbiolo. High acidity again (as with the Preda) and ultra special tannins. Only 2000-2300 bottles are produced. Drink 2021-2029.  Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barbera d’Alba DOCG 2016

Roddi is the source and direct sun exposure provided for a terroir-varietal relationship that is necessary when you consider acidity rates, ripeness measurements and structural assets. Here barbera gets into beneficial bitters, speaks with assuring alacrity and extolls the virtue of a mainly steely exterior. Really spirited, fresh and alive. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Bricco Dei Merli 2017

Single vineyard, aged for one year in wood. The hilltop of the blackbird and a wine nosing succinctly of black cherry. No way this is simply the wine of the osteria or the honky tonk bar. The maturation here is set so high on both fronts, first sugar and then phenolic. Acidity is supportive and there is no burn. There is no jam. What shows is body strength, spirit and a soft finish. Comes from elevation where the wind blows and you can feel the cool breeze running in the veins, like cool water. Picked late September and we are thankful for that. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

The view from Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Pre Phylloxera 2018

Pre-Phylloxera because of these barbera vines’ ability to survive with thanks to sandy soil and 500m of elevation. A red soil that was not inhabitable to the louse. The vineyard is rented from Marcarini and Valter likes to farm it to to keep the history of his family’s work alive. Lower acidity, higher concentration and an affinity with northern Rhône syrah. Cool, smooth, silky, crystal clear and the pinnacle of barbera beauty. Incredible texture. Only 2,000 bottles made. Drink 2021-2029.  Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera d’Alba DOC Giardono 2018

From a single vineyard, eight yearsold and aged in concrete, for a reductive environment and more important a low, natural and slow ferment. A rich deep cherry barbera to be fair, sure and completely honest with a modernity of acidity that belies the reasons why barbera fell out of favour and became hard to sell. This will do the yeoman work to continue the resurrection. A spice market from a time gone by connects Giardino to a loyal and traditional wine. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera D’alba DOC Mezzavilla 2015

From 75 year-old vines in the Mezzavilla Vineyard, located between the villages of Cisterna (towards Asti) and Canale. Just a few percentage points of oak because the fruit demands it and concrete will keep freshness but doesn’t quite do enough for this fruit. Such a soothing acidity and a presence that speaks to the sand and the clay of the land from whence it came. Taste this fruit and you will understand. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barbera d’Alba Doc “Legattere®”‎ 2017 ($24.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

A selection of barbera vineyards of soils calcareous/clayey, maceration of six days, fermented in steel, aged in French oak. Just a classic, pure red fruit, high acid and smooth texture/tannins. Round flavours, big yet somehow understated. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Centobricchi 2016

On the hill just above Alba on the way to Serralunga, of low yields that produce just about one bunch per vine. Spends one year in new French oak to gift spice, savour, silk and palate fineness. High acidity, at times too high but necessary to foil the hedonism. A piqued and plentiful barbera that in the end comes down to farming. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Bricco delle Olive 2017

Big barbera, 15 months in (50 per cent new) tonneaux with violets and spice smothering all else. Despite the enormity of it all this is barbera in a balanced varietal world and Bricco delle Viole is clearly a Superiore terroir from which to approach with great ambition. All assets are encouraged and flaunted  within the grand scale of this particular Alba spectrum. Will improve with some further wood integration. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbera d’Alba DOC 2018

The red fruit juiciest and most succulent Barbera d’Alba with great acids. Make you wish more varietal wines like this would align, draft and glide alongside. Fresh and just lovely. Drink 2020-2023.  Tasted February 2020

Verduno Pelaverga DOC

Diego Morra Pelaverga DOC 2018

Diego Morra’s pelaverga ’18 is clear, concise and pure, lying with a varietal heart at its most effusive. Prim as is imaginable while a big expression for a light and silken grape. From a “normal,” manageable and consistent vintage. A wine executed with molecular gastronomy to an end forged by a grape-wine relationship. Social, artistic and technical pelaverga, investigating the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur in farming and then, winemaking. Drink 2020-2024.  Tasted January 2020

Vino Rosso

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Donna Costanza Cardunaj Vino Rosso 2017

A digestif wine, a Brachetto vinified dry and so curious. A dessert wine with no fizz and just a touch of sweetness. A moment’s Amaro bitters but no sense of liqueur. Odd to be sure. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Pas Dosè Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

A 50-50 nebbiolo and arneis mix, seven years on the lees, from the 2012 vintage and disgorged in October 2019. Yes you read this properly, seven years on lees. The Malabaila connection to the Esterhazy royalty in Austrian indirectly bridges two estates and you can’t help but think about the Blanc de Blancs made in the Burgenland. Zero dosage means lean, direct, sharp and energetic bubbles with remarkable precision. These are Grandi Langhe bubbles from Roero, not to be missed. First vintage was 2010. Can’t be Millesimato because it’s a blend. Drink 2020-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Rosato DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Rosato DOC 2018

From Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila with perfectly typical Rosato colour for nebbiolo taken from Roero lands. ’Tis a coppery hue, sexy rusty, mimicked in flavours with a note like lemon tisane. Steep in some currants and sweet herbs and you get the picture. Poured from magnum and good thing because a table of six would have otherwise gone very thirsty. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC

Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC Anas Cëtta 2019

Cold stabilization and some wood aging but in botti, no longer in barriques. I have yet to put the nose to my glass and the aromatics are coming out. A semi-aromatic grape with here in 2019 from peach, elderflowers and high level acidity. I would imagine it’s most akin to chenin but even that is a stretch. The drinkability meeting complexity is off the charts. Once you go tactile-textile nascetta like this you may never go back. Approximately 16,000 bottles produced. One of now 30-plus producers in the Langhe. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020.  Drink 2020-2023

Le Strette Nas-cëtta Langhe DOC Pasinot 2018

Nascetta, or Nas-cëtta, as they say in the commune of Novello with fruit out of Pasinotti, Bergera, Pezzole and Tarditi at altitudes of 350 to 420m. Planted over many decades, in 1948, 1983, 2009, 2014 and 2016. The Piedmontese grape rarity likes the sandy, calcareous clay and its emission is semi-aromatic. This example sits somewhere between riesling and gewürztraminer though truth be told seems closer to friulano what with its glycerin and off-dry sentimentality. Novello is the place and the heights help bring about the oiliness and preserved citrus notes from the grape. Needs another year to fully bloom. Drink 2021-2025.  Tasted January 2020

Langhe Favorita DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Favorita DOC Donna Costanza 2018

A label made by Lucrezia’s father (who passed away in 2010) for his wife and her mother. Endemic, full of drive, a touch of a sweetness and in a way a cool, northern example that is linked to inzolia, or even zibbibo. More texture here and alloy notation. Lingers with herbs and sweet citrus. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Roero Arneis DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Arneis DOC Pradaj 2018

Pradaj in Piedmontese is “A valley with grass and flowers” and clearly a reference to the aromatics in the grape variety from this place. A perfectly correct and referenced arneis indeed and an ideal match to the local Plin agnolotti filled with herbs. When the arneis from Roero speaks clearly it does so like this, unadorned, floral and calm. Drink 2020-2022.  Tasted January 2020

Birbét

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Birbét Donna Costanza 2018

Mosta d’Uva parzialmente fermentato or, grape must partially fermented to five point five per cent alcohol. Served traditionally as dessert though it could certainly be employed in aperitivo format, as Brachetrto d’Acqui often is. Very cherry, lightly carbonated and sweetly herbal. Simple pleasure. Drink 2020-2021.  Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

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Godello in Cherasco

Twitter: @mgodello

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Twenty mind-blowing wines of 2020

Related – Nineteen mind-blowing wines of 2019

There are times when you do it just for the continuity because time marches on, no matter the circumstances. There is no disputing how different 2020 was and frankly the flip to 2021 will not bring about significant change or any semblance of a return to what was, at least not in the first several months. Yet the compelling urge is there, to quantify and qualify this annual Godello list of wines that opened, expanded and blew a mind in 2020. The concept for a year-end summation was launched in 2012 though it was the publishing of 14 in 2014 that made it very official, if only in the mind of one Godello. Matters little whether this qualifies as the seventh or the ninth because in wine one should always eschew semantics for the liquid truth found inside the bottle, elixirs they are of most profound, ethereal and honest propriety.

Related – Eighteen mind-blowing wines of 2018

This will be a much different list than ever before. While I did manage to squeeze in 25 days of travel in the first 56 of 2020 those were the last of this calendar year. That’s at least 75 short of my normal yearly schedule and so imagine that if an average of 30 wines are tasted each and every day on the road, well then that would tell us that at the very minimum 2,250 wines were missed this year. Not entirely true because at least half that many, if not 75 per cent more were made available to me and my WineAlign colleagues over these past nine month of quarantine, isolation and safe-distancing tastings. Still the make-up of what was tasted has been very different, the most notable being the lack of unrepresented or not found in market wines. Less discovery in 2020 to be sure.

Campo Spritz

Related – Seventeen mind-blowing wines of 2017

According to my personal critic’s database on WineAlign I reviewed 4,450 wines in 2020, keeping in mind that many of those reviews were for wines tasted in 2019. Up until this year I was consistently behind or back-logged with hundreds if not more than a thousand tasting notes in the queue, unedited, unresolved, not yet reconciled, unfinished, not-posted. Since the global pandemic abruptly delivered me home in the dead of a late February night from Faenza to Firenze, through Frankfurt and to Pearson I have not been able to resume travel. These last 10 months have allowed for a massive catching up. There are now a thousand less wines to finesse and publish then there were this time last year, very few raw and rustic songs waiting for the editing process. All the choices on this 2020 list have been solidified and already been opined with confidence for the world to scrutinize. In 2020 there is nothing left on the table.

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Slipped outta Dodge under the cover of darkness…

This year’s list is indeed different. The get togethers were few and far between. The travel non-existent. That is why you will recognize more producer names and also a more “archetypal” bent to the choices. The year dictates such a direction and as we all know, you have to listen to what the vintage tells you but also to remember and thank the true pioneers for getting all of us here. Perhaps the greatest influence on how this composition came to be was a conscious choice to omit the older vintages tasted in 2020. There were less to be sure but it just feels like keeping them kind of secretive is the way to go. Let’s hope a connection to that part of this exercise will make a return in 2021. As always, heartfelt thanks to everyone who poured a glass. The producers, winemakers, export managers, friends, colleagues and pirates, so please be encouraged and read on. Alas, Godello’s 20 mind-blowing wines of 2020.

The Heldeberg from Stellenbosch

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (23128, $17.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

Gets me every time. Not just one of the finest meets best value chenin blancs available out of South Africa but an example to hang all your hats on no matter where white wine comes from in this world. Still the knowing nod and incredulous head shake that $18 CDN can buy you fruit from six blocks that are mainly 38 years of age but could possibly include 1974 Helderberg planted vines in Stellenbosch. “Core of the business” and arrow through a chenin heart. Great ferment, like a (catherine) wheel. Layers of design, creamy with thanks to secondary lees aging but somehow still texturally chewy. Barrel notes make a point in a vanilla brûlée way and yet each sip is like taking a bite from a piece of firm, ripe fruit. “I need more texture. You need to give me more texture, texture, texture. You need to give me more texture.” Old Vine Reserve obliges every time. Drink 2020-2026.  Tasted June 2020

(c) @tiny.wild.world and @WineAlign

Selbach Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2018, Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (17498, $45.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

The triad of producer, appellation and vineyard gets no more arch classic than this with a riesling in Spätlese form at the hands of Selbach-Oster. The pitch and sway in this Wehlener Sonnenuhr vinyeard is 2018 dance card perfect, tight and fluid. Succulent acids are burgeoning and urging the fruit forward, sideways and every which way but loose. This is a wine that gets what needs and gives what is wanted. Will only improve with a few years and then there will come a day when an air or vapour trail falls away. Drink 2022-2033.  Tasted November 2020

Tyrrell’s Belford Sémillon 2017, Single Vineyard, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, South Australia (14322, $46.95, Select Wine Merchants)

Belford Vineyard (formerly Elliot Farm) is Hunter Valley leader Tyrrell’s single-vineyard leased sémillon with so much promise in its corner. A top varietal vintage for one thing and the well-draining sandy soils for another. Sémillon thrives in these conditions and so what comes from this awe-inspiring wine is exactly what you possibly wish for when selecting from Hunter Valley. This wine is swiftly, justly and perpetually lit, a smoky, paraffin waxy, über salty, elemental, aerified, verified mineral wine. So focused and precise. Mon dieu, Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted June 2020

(c) @tiny.wild.world and @WineAlign

Fresne Ducret La Grande Hermine Champagne Premier Cru 2008, AC Champagne, France ($78.00, Nicholas Pearce Wines)

Hard to believe the age because while this almost certainly achieved an immediately retro toasted and evolved stage in its youth and though 12 years have passed the present day imaginings are dreamed to persist within that very immediate stage. As creamy as it is toasty, the textural body politic in La Grande Hermine is one of great cerebral and figurative impression. You feel, intuit and embrace such honesty and possibility. Drink this vintage dated Champagne all winter long. Its calming presence will preserve you in a state of grace lower than a snowman’s blood pressure. Drink 2020-2028.  Tasted September 2020

El Esteco

El Esteco 1947 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina (15082, $24.95, Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.)

From Argentina’s northern desert where some of the country’s oldest vines perpetuate existence while thriving fiercely in a hot climate. So yes it is true that some fruit from 70-plus year old vines, well trees really, make their way into this special Salta wine. Dense and concentrated, Cassis times 10, savoury and truly expressive. Oak is well-managed, not shy mind you but these old vines deserve some added and fortifying structure. Do not miss this. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted August 2020

Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Maipo Valley, Chile (403980, $160.00, Escalade Wines & Spirits)

Though essentially a cabernet sauvignon at minimum 90 per cent, it would normally need saying to never discount the blending attributes of cabernet franc, merlot and in recent years, petit verdot. The nooks and crannies filled by the other grape varieties are some of the senses of wonder that have illuminated and elucidated the magic of Don Melchor. And yet years of such thought is turned on its head in 2017 with a 98 per cent pure cabernet sauvignon Don Melchor and only two bits of cabernet franc. Speaks to winemaker Enrique Tirado’s vision of the varietal and vintage relationship. After all, this is his baby, a passion project that spans 20 vintages, from which he looks to “harvest the beauty of the balance of the Puente Alto terroir.” From Viñedo Don Melchor, D.O. Puente Alto and Valle del Alto Maipo, old vines planted 1979 to 1992, new from 2004-2013. The vintage was above average in terms of warmth, cooler temperatures at harvest preserved acidities and sealed the (near) mono-varietal deal. At 30 years into its tenure Don Melchor hits a new stride and it would be hard to argue against the levels of subtle, demure, balanced and ethereal in this 2017. Perfect fruit? Pretty darn close and a bouquet of fresh picked flower-herb-fruit that merge, meld and grace together. One for this age and to age gracefully, slowly and predictably for 20-25 years. Drink 2022-2037.  Tasted October 2020

Taub Family Vineyards Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Napa Valley, California (849434, $235.00, Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd.)

From proprietor Marc Taub who’s family has been prominently part of the Napa Valley wine fabric since prohibition and who in 2013 acquired Napa Valley producer Heritance, later evolving into Taub Family Vineyards. His winemaker is Tom Hinde, a Sonoma and Napa specialist who cut his teeth for seven years at Flowers, but also at Kendall-Jackson, Hartford, La Crema, Lakoya, Cardinale, Stonestreet and Verite. Add in a mere three acres within the historic 300-acre Beckstoffer Vineyard first purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour in 1928, called Beaulieu Vineyard Number 3 and made by winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. The 2017 Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon are a very special lot. That much we know. Add in the pedigree, torch passing and respect for these necessary tenets of wine-producing business and well, hello. Utmost attention to detail, optimum extraction and concentration, sultry, supple and ultimately divine. There is this fine, fine, almost indescribable salty vein that cuts through the fruit and the fat like perfect umami seasoning in the most decadent dish. With meat or seafood, California or Japan, take your pick. Drink this either way. Drink 2023-2039.  Tasted October 2020

Olive and Anthony Hamilton Russell

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2018, WO Hemel En Aarde Valley, South Africa (999516, $59.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

Even though the ’18 HR PN took my breath away nine months ago, the not yet understood nuance of this wine surely clouded first impressions. However small a sample size this may be is more than enough to prove time’s effect on wine, pinot noir and Hamilton Russell’s spiritual connection with the grape and how it personifies the Hemel En Aarde Valley. Fragrance, perfume, essential oils, Lilac, Lilly of the Valley and the sweetest tobacco smoulder. Captivating now and quite likely will be so into the mid 30s.  Last tasted August 2020

There have been many Hamilton Russell pinot noir poured in my anxiously awaiting glasses over the last five years. It’s hard to believe we are here at 2018 but time is a joy when you are having a noirmance. The fruit is exceptional in this vintage because it just feels like the warm day/cool night fix is in. The diurnal flux has locked in freshness and sweet tension like no recent memory can recall. Makes for a most grippy yet excitable pinot noir of concentration, presence and promise. Benchmark in every respect. Drink 2021-2032.  Tasted November 2019

That Marco Cirese Sangiovese stare. His Noelia Ricci and Pandolfo are crucial, fundamental and illustrative of what is possible in Emilia-Romagna. #sangiovesediromagna #viniadarte #viniadarte2020

Noelia Ricci Pandolfa Romagna Sangiovese Predappio DOC Godenza 2018, Emilia Romagna, Italy (The Vine Agency)

Godenza was the name of the podere (house) on site at a one hectare vineyard at 340m, the highest section of Ricci’s land. The introduction of concrete tanks is surely responsible (in part) to the freshness and reduction but also poor, well-draining calcareous soils that complete a relationship with open-knit and fragrant red fruit. Adds up to complexities and beauty, not to mention the hands-off, unadulterated feel of this wine. At the top end of quality and elaborate expression for the appellation. Drink 2021-2026.  Tasted twice at Vini Ad Arte, Casa Spadoni, Faenza February 2020

Because he’s Dario F-in Faccin, that’s why g-dammit! #carobbio #sangiovese #chianticlassico #panzano #galestro

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy ($33.60, Alta Wines)

Stop in here for a rest and exult in the near perfect grace, charm and collective soul in the heart of an Annata. To say that the Novarese family and Dario Faccin should feel the greatest sangiovese reward from this appellation would be a grand understatement. This version of Panzano and Chainti Classico DOCG is what it is, what it can and must be. Should be. Has to be. Richly glorious and confidently understated. The cleanest sangiovese and the one that speaks most succinctly of the land. These are the reasons why Carobbio is the most underrated, but for how long? This ’16 will see proof to that and so much more. Drink 2021-2031.  Tasted February 2020

With the brothers Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli

Now to introduce you to the Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli brothers, Alessandro and Andrea, two men who covet, own and articulate their western wing of Castelnuovo terroir. As custodians of these classic southern Chianti Classico Alberese and Galestro vineyards they have come to understand their nuance and their specialities. So, Riserva from 2015 now comes to its beginning having needed every bit of the extra two years in bottle it has received. Yes this Geggiano ’15 Riserva still needs time and if you abide by the premise it will come alive, surmise and in turn, surprise. In fact it will make a lasting impression and stay with you forever. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted February 2020

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Stem Wine Group)

The acumen, wisdom and also the persistent reduction are formidable in this incredibly concentrated wine. So Monsanto, so in delivery of San Donato in Poggio, so Laura Bianchi. Seemingly equipped with the needed stuffing in the way that 1968 managed to accrue over 50 years of travels. Here in Gran Selezione form the tendencies and the abilities are multiplied tenfold. Magnificent and magnanimous, the concentration is foiled by focus and precision, from all that has come before, moving into the present and then going forward with everything that occupies, in hopes and dreams. Drink 2025-2037.  Tasted February 2020

Vineyard at Salicutti

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Sorgente 2015, Tuscany, Italy

Organic, biodynamic and unfiltered, from the then first in Montalcino, at the hands of Francesco Leanza, in 1995. Now (and since 2015) in the custodial hands of Felix and Sabine Eichbauer, halfway between Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The last of the cru, single-vineyards planted at Salicutti and not surprisingly the one with most red fruity juiciness that keeps a lineage with the Rosso. If a portal into knowing what it makes to taste the bright side of 2015 could be described then why not make use of this ethereal Sorgente to learn of such things. Voltage, tension and vibration. Drink 2021-2028.  Tasted February 2020

Francesco Ripaccioli

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Casaccia 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Le Sommelier Inc.)

Barrel Sample. Now this is something exceptional. This is what Casaccia is obviously capable of producing, The sweetest Canalicchio fruit of all, to date and with a rising low and slow angling of acidity (as opposed to straight verticality) that carries the fruit to great heights. This will be a triumph and in fact it is already tasting like a piece de Canalicchio resistance while it sings a long maestro song. A soloist that needs no accompaniment although food, company and peace would not hurt at all. Obviously this is more than just the northern side of Montalcino and more than Canalicchio. This is Casaccia. Drink 2025-2039.  Tasted February 2020

Lorenzo Magnelli, Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Diecianni 2013, Tuscany, Italy

The ’13 will be released on January 1st, 2023 and as the name Diecianni suggests it is a Riserva that 10 years minimum are needed before readiness begins to take shape. The selection is from the smallest grape clusters in estate vineyards and mainly the oldest vines, originally planted in 1987. The vintage of the great polyphonic-phenolic, elastic and stretched ripeness, by photosynthesis without heat, of muscles with energy and ones that will develop, remain and use their power to keep the fruit alive. That said it’s a wine of wood and the highest level of salinity, sapidity and a tang that is exhibited by no other Brunello di Montalcino. A concentration that is simply outstanding and in some minds, will even be eclipsed (or not) by 2016. The finesse and architecture of this wine are as good as it gets. Drink 2026-2042.  Tasted February 2020

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2015, Piedmont, Italy ($59.95)

From Canale vines 50 years old and the most historical vineyard for Malabaila, as documents show. Riserva here means two years in two, three and four year-old barrels. Yet another silky Roero and example of nebbiolo that could not have been born anywhere else. The “little castle” is a charming nebbiolo, fine of all its constructive parts with an ease of sensuality that just shows how confident, casual and natural life as it is just happens to be. Castelletto knows what it is. Drink 2020-2028.  Tasted January 2020

Elena Sottimano

Sottimano Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($103.95, Le Maitre de Chai)

Basarin in the newest Cru for Sottimano, established in 2014 though the vines are already between 45-50 years old. Released just at the start of 2020 and already displaying a prominence in aromatics that speak to this exceptional nook just below Neive. From a vintage blessed for its place in history matched by a requiem for a dream. Crunchy for nebbiolo surely caused by the policy of classically long Piedmontese maceration, drawing fruit with gentle impunity and long-grained tannins in thrushes and intermingling chains. Pure dark fruit (almost raspberry) and a generous application of wood varnish. Architecture, length and character, all together. Drink 2022-2037.  Tasted January 2020

With Francesca Vaira

G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($113.95, Groupe Soleil)

The thing of Bricco delle Viole that is beauty emits with gala fruit force into the canals of the layers. Bricco dell Viole the singular Barolo cru, from which fruit, texture and extension are consistently planned out, mapped and organized. So wound, so found and following a path that runs along a line along a circle. Slow unwind and unfolding coming, culminating in developed notes, to be far away, somewhere between then and then. Too soon to tell. Drink 2023-2032.  Tasted January 2020

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2017, South Australia, Australia (12016, $150.00, Mark Anthony Group)

Another old friend, St. Henri, once a wine for a special occasion, now one for all times. No, not a baby Grange but to me this is to Penfolds as Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus is to Maison Bouchard Père & Fils. Not that there is any resemblance to pinot noir save for the fact that in terms of shiraz, St. Henri is the elegant or if you will, the Burgundian one. Penfolds like to refer to Henri as “an intriguing counterpoint to Grange,” and that seems right in the sense that power and optimum concentration are never the point. It is a multi-regional blend, from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Eden Valley and Port Lincoln. There is no new wood exercised; it spends 12 months in 50-plus year old vats. Distinct style, unique pedigree and alternative execution. Adds up to intrigue, enigma and mystery, which is just what an iconic and signature counterpoint should do. Acidity and structure are tops, bar none. Drink 2023-2039.  Tasted October 2020

(c) @tiny.wild.world and @WineAlign

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2018, Douro Valley, Portugal (12076, $160.00, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits)

The third consecutively declared Vintage Port by Taylor is one of 18’s most powerfully restrained. Taylor describes their 2018 from a “year (that) seems to have given it an additional layer of density and weight.” Apropos it needs saying because texture this viscous is clearly vintage driven. After record aridity in 2017 it was a wet March that was welcomed with open arms and water tables but the rain kept up and so mildew became the challenge. Worse was damage from hailstorms in the Pinhão area, including Taylor Fladgate’s Quinta do Junco. But the heat came and on August 3rd at Quinta de Vargellas they recorded a temperature of just over 44°C. Ripening happened in a shorter and more concentrated window, a good thing in the world of VP, as witnessed by the no holes, all in, singular in vision and style Taylor 2018. Not the gangster power surge of some others mind you and the violets give little aromatic space to fruit nor perfume that tries to steal the spotlight. These are remarkable tannins and it could be periods of ages and epochs before this begins to move into complexities secondary and tertiary. If I were as young as I think you are I’d invest in this Taylor for the next 30-plus years of evolution. Drink 2027-2044.  Tasted November 2020

Good to go!

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