Sunset over Niederösterreich

Life is a series of movements, from pillar to post and decision making often culminates in negative results. Every day there are deliberations, shuttles and bargaining for positivity, all inherently matters of the human condition, experienced through the tension of opposites, simply because choices made more often than not feel diametrically opposed to one another in some unavoidable way. This is one of Carl Jung’s foundational precepts and while it is often a source of frustration and confusion, for grapes and the wines they create it can be the source of greatest joy. A vine planted in poor soils and subjected to the tensity of elements may succeed but it must find a way to suffer through the strain and pressure. Jung noted that in fact it can be a necessary pre-condition (in the case of people) for real transformation to occur. Antithetically speaking grapevines are not human and nature is exceedingly if also impressively resourceful. Roots dig deeper in search of nutrients, the plant stretches and adapts, learns to embrace the tension of opposites and in turn grows stronger. Wine lovers know the feeling, of tasting that which was raised on terroirs where the vine struggle is real, survival is the necessity and the wine results are pure glory.

Godello in Wagram

Which brings us directly to Austria, where incidentally I visited, albeit briefly, back in late November of 2022. It was there that this theory was brought to light. Extreme climate, gradience and geology can lead and convince a vine to beat the odds, case in point examples from near and far. Places such as the Côtes d’Or, Rangen de Thann, Radda in Chianti, The Mosel, Salta, Lanzarote, Camargue, Bekka Valley, Santorini, Aosta Valley, Patagonia, Ahr Valley, Prince Edward County, Hunter Valley, Annapolis Valley, Lamole and Limarí Valley. Just to name a large handful! Let us add Austria to the list, Lower Austria that is (Niederösterreich) and more specifically the Wagram and the Traisental. Three aspects determine the viability for these two growing areas to qualify as those where the experience concerns the tension of opposites. Cool climate, poor soils and windswept ridges. Stand atop any one of these spots in late November, feel the chill drill straight down into your bones and know just what a vine must do to not only survive, but also thrive.

The Loess of Clemens Strobl

Wagram

In the Wagram the vineyards are divided between two distinct zones. The first is north of the Danube, directly to the east of the Kamptal where a vast terrace of land stretches eastwards for approximately 30 kilometres. The second zone runs south of the Danube, home to the small wine villages of the Tulln Basin, as well as the historic wine-growing town of Klosterneuburg which is just a stone’s throw away from Vienna. There are 250 wineries in the wagram, 2,459 hectares under vine and the three principal grape varieties are grüner veltliner, riesling and roter veltliner. The main viticultural villages are Feuersbrunn, Fels, Grossriedenthal, Gösing, Kirchberg, Großweikersdorf and Klosterneuburg.

Kirchberg am Wagram

It’s really all about rich, aromatic wines. The name Wagram is derived from the word Wogenrain, roughly translated as “surfside.” This is because the substratum of alluvial gravels and sedimentary marine deposits is covered by loess,  blown in during the ice ages and has since played a significant role in shaping the landscape. From the 2021 vintage onwards, regionally typical wines can be labelled as Wagram DAC. The top tier of the pyramid is represented by the region’s Riedenwein (single-vineyard wines) and here is where grüner veltliner, riesling and roter veltliner truly shine. Moving down from the Ried there are the Ortsweine or Villages wines that can also include chardonnay, weißburgunder, blauburgunder, and zweigelt. Finally there are the Gebietsweine, monovarietal, as a cuvée blend or Gemischter Satz (field blend)). The above mentiioned grape varieties are joined by frühroter veltliner, grauer burgunder, gelber muskateller, sauvignon blanc and traminer.

Schnitzel in Langenlois

Traisental

The Traisental is the youngest wine-growing region in Austria, only dating back to 1995 in the way we know it today with their corresponding DACs having been cemented in 2006. Of all the Austrian DACs it is one of the smallest with a shade over 800 hectares under vine. Nowhere does grüner veltliner lead as it does in Traisental, relatively speaking, where nearly two-thirds of all vineyards are planted to the signature Austrian white grape variety. Also riesling which holds great importance and perhaps increasingly so. The growing areas are tied to the villages and their signature taverns where these wines flow and also revered. Two such places are Traismauer and Herzogenburg, towns with windows into the past. Smallest of terraces are where vines grow on gravelly and often calcareous soils. Weather can be extreme, especially winds, of Pannonian influences along with cold air from the foothills of the Alps. The nearby Danube River balances temperature and day/night fluctuations. Wine culture dates back to the Romans and modern times place most importance on grüner veltliner and riesling thoughb there are smatterings of other varieties in white and red, namely pinot blanc and noir.

Godello and Traisental Geology

Ten million years ago the Traisen river ran through what is now the Traisental Valley, a growing area so apropos to talk about tension of opposites. The limestone conglomerate and poor soils south of the Danube house a mere 25 producers plus growers and their focus on grüner veltliner and riesling is all about making magic where vines suffer before begetting incredible fruit. The vineyards are planted up to 380m and what was once a four to five kilometre wide river is now just 100-150 metres across at its widest. The build up from 10,000 years of hummus is such that now if you screw up your soil it can takes decades to build it back up again. And so growers like Markus Huber have certified organic but are not content with just the rules, but concern themselves with always being one step ahead. Producers have to be open for things available on the markets, especially preparations, like Trichoderma and other microorganisms used against downy mildew. Huber remarks how herb extracts applied over the last five years have led to very good results.

The Art of Wine – Down to Earth

This two-part expression are but two ways to look at Austrian wine. From Styria, the Burgenland and Vienna in Lower Austria there are 17 DACs from a bit less than 45,000 hectares of planted vineyard. They speak collectively in a typically Austrian vernacular and with a connectivity as real and transparent as any wine producing nation in Europe. Draw a line through the village of Saint Pölten from the Traisental to the Wagram and a most specific association is forged, by geography, geology and climatic patterns. There are recurring characteristics in the grüner veltliner and riesling throughout these two DAC wines and in turn their relatedness to Niederösterreich as a whole is forged through the lands on either side of the Danube.

John Szabo M.S. receives the Bacchus Award from Chris Yorke, Wines of Austria

In November of 2022 our small group of four spent two and a half days wandering these two Lower Austrian wine regions with the chaperone assistance of Matthias and Wines of Austria. We also spent two evenings in Vienna, one at dinner with Zahel’s Alex Zahel and another at the Wiener Rathaus as our colleague John Szabo M.S. received Wines of Austria’s most prestigious International Bacchus Award for his two decades of commitment in writing about and educating on behalf of Austrian wines. Our visits in Wagram and Traisental took us to Domaine Ott, Weinmanufaktur Clemens Strobl, Dockner Tom, Jurtschitsch, Markus Huber, Matthias Warnung and Weinkultur Preiß. Just before flying to Europe John and Roman Horvath MW had delivered a November 9th masterclass in Toronto on Austrian wines and those notes are also included in this report. In total I share 90 tasting notes with you.

Domaine Ott – Feuersbrunn, Wagram

Bernhard Ott is a fourth generation winemaker, at the helm since 1993 for an estate dating back to 1889. Ott farms and bottles from 32 different plots, including three prized premium sites, one in Kamptal (Engabrunner Stein) and two in Wagram (Feuersbrunner Spiegel and Rosenberg). Bernhard’s initial goal was to make use of stainless steel though in 2018 he began working with varying sizes of Stockinger fuders. These traditional Mosel casks literally translate to a “wagonload, cartload; A unit of measure for wine equal to roughly 1000 litres.” In total there are 55 hectares and it was after tasting a 1933 Rosenberg GV that Ott decided to go back to his roots, to what his grandfather would have been doing and moved to basket press. The first to do so with white wine. In the early 2000s Bernhard began composting, with organic cow manure, became certified organic in 2006 and later visited the biodynamic property of Domaine La Romanée Conti in Vosne with Hans Reisetbauer. This was the impetus towards committing to biodynamic viticulture. He formed Respekt in 2007 with Johannes Hirsch, Fred Loimer and a group of like-minded producers, Respekt was formed. The oldest vines in the Rosenberg were planted in 1954 in very deep loess soil. Stein is Gföhler gneiss at the bottom, with red and white sands, a layer of chalk and a little loess on top. At Spiegel the soils are a mix of deep, chalky loess and red gravel, part Rosenberg and part Stein. Most of the production is grüner veltliner with 10 percent riesling.

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg 2021, Lower Austria

Frankly as direct and rounded as grüner veltliner will ever get, three parts gathered together, estate fruit, biodynamic growers’ and two hectares from agronomist Hans Reisetbauer’s father’s GV. The dictionary entry, easy to access, wisps of smoke and white pepper, finishing with a tincture’s drops of fine tonic and bitters. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 2021, Wagram

The fourth barrel, named for Bernhard Ott’s father, a big brand poured in wine bars all over Europe. All estate fruit (which separates it from the Am Berg) and all the vines used are a minimum 12 years of age. More aromatic presence, fruit substantiality, single-vineyard edginess and concentration. Now some smoulder and layered vim, even into volupté territory. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Ried Spiegel Feuersbrunn 1ÖTW 2020, Wagram

Seriously smouldering out of the glass, so much so you are surprised to not see some smoke rising. From Ott’s six hectare portion, high in loess, gravel and (15-20 per cent) chalk. A very windy spot, seemingly always, a very exposed place. Almost the highest part of Hengstberg, a cool and understated wine, shy in its early stage yet blessed with grand cru vineyard DNA, beauty and tangible length. Drink 2023-2029.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Ried Stein Engabrunn 1ÖTW 2020, Kamptal

All Kamptal fruit, from a vineyard mentioned in 1427, loess with granite, firestone, gravel and a “fruity” hummus in the top few centimetres of the soil. Bigger fruit expression as compared to Spiegel, also in slide over to Kamptal there is more generosity and up front openness. No paraffin wax or lightning strikes though the back palate is alive, layered and kicking. Though consistently at 13 per cent alcohol like the rest it is felt with more oomph in Stein, thanks to the bigger amount of flesh on the palate. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner Ried Rosenberg Feuersbrunn 1ÖTW 2020, Wagram

Ott took over this vineyard from his father in 1993 and decided at this time to focus on the white wines, trading the planted red vineyards for this Rosenberg, planted in 1956. Roots go down 30 metres in pure loess soil with 30-33 per cent free (or active) chalk. Man does this taste like chalk incarnate but with salty, smoky and elemental veins cut through carrying the lifeblood of the soil beneath. Luxe enough to imagine a wine going on with great flesh over a long period of time and more because the chalk will morph, transmigrate and develop a whole new level of smoulder, always connected to that chalk. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Ried Kirchtal 2020, Wagram

On the east shoulder of Hengstberg with mainly loess but also gravel and some heavy clay. The nose delivers Rhône like or more specifically Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe heady aromas in flowers like roses in oil and a density or booziness. The vineyard was planted in 2010 and 2014 was the first vintage. Seems like a big and gorgeous wine that’s a bit funny on its feet, like a breed still as a puppy with big feet and not having yet grown into itself. Clumsy yet amazing, juicy and excitable, not as focused as the grand crus, nor finessed neither. Look for iterations from 2025 onwards to get there. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott 2021, Wagram

Combines three Erste Lage (Grand Crus) in one wine. One hundred per cent basket pressed and large cask aged. Approximately 45 percent Spiegel with equal parts Stein and Rosenberg. These pressings are separated from the single-vineyard wines, picked separately (essentially from younger vines). Exciting levels of grand cru, layers and layers to stack, unfold and peel away, perhaps not as linear, focused and precise but worthy of the ideal. Bloody delicious at a high level for the short term and offering a window into all three crus after they age well into the future. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Ried Gmirk 2021, Wagram

Gmirk, from the German, only 500L of juice available, from 30 year-old vineyards demarcating the border to a village (Gösing) that deserves to be on its own as a high level wine. The concentration is rather remarkable, the smokiness thick like fog and the texture palpable. A delicious grüner veltliner that satisfies as much as it impresses. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Ried Brenner 2021, Wagram

Only 1000L of juice available, from a few rows in Spiegel that deserve to be bottled on their own. The intensity is palpable, a chiseled grüner veltliner of finesse, focus and linearity. Also power and drive, horsepower really, full speed ahead that can run both the sprint and the marathon. Drink 2024-2035.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Riesling Ried Kirchthal 2021, Wagram

Youthful, stoic and reticent, not really giving away much at this very early stage. Layers of typical riesling necessity, intensity and sprit, needing time, slowly unfolding towards the greatness that awaits, Not quite what is available, possible and probable with grüner veltliner but impressively profound just the same. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted November 2022

Bernhard Ott Riesling Kabin(O)TT 2021, Lower Austria

Made with some more residual sugar, Kabinett style (obviously) as a wink and a nod towards the Mosel. Green mango and peach, flowers as well, top quality acids and overall a proper if professional balance. Drink away though careful of how easy it disappears. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Lukas Strobl and John Szabo MS

Weinmanufaktur Clemens Strobl – Kirchberg am Wagram

Clemens Strobl is a second generation family-owned winery started in 2008, led by Clemens and son Lukas. They started with one hectare, “wanting to know what is behind winemaking.” Today there are 15 hectares, mostly terraced above the winery. The 2012 vintage was the first to make use of native yeasts and the beginning of a conversation towards organics. They are self-professed “unbound to tradition” and so there are no appellations on the wines. Experimentation is key, yet also with winemaking ideas in the skin-contact, unfined, unfiltered and minimal sulphuring realm. They may be uncomfortable to be tagged as makers of natural wine but their actions speak for themsleves. For Clemens and Strobl wine is directly connected to soil and this means loess. Metres of loam and loess, tertiary gravel dating back millions of years. Their’s is “the region of the future.” Burgundian conditions, of loess and limestones, expressly Wagram.

Clemens Strobl Donauschotter Grüner Veltliner 2021

Clemens Strobl Grüner Veltliner Schrek 2019

From the Schrekenberg, abutting the Kamptal, surrounded by forest, filled with wildlife. Vineyards face more east than south, a cooler spot that’s increasingly warming and this being one of those really warm years. Fermented in 100L oak vats. More concentration exaggerated in this 2019, but also that flinty smoulder and malolactic induced mouthfeel. Not a wine concerned with primary flavours and more about impression, in a way that reminds of some aged Domaine Paul Blanck, albeit in grüner veltliner clothing. The clarity is admirable, focus and purity as well. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Lössling Grüner Veltliner 2019

From Weissbrün on heavy Loess soils, “one of our warmest vineyards, especially for grüner veltliner, now quite challenging with warming temperatures and yet we don’t lose acidity.” The warmth is so up front and immediately nurturing, soft and creamier than Schrek from a vintage in requiem of a quicker maceration, less than six hours, working on brown juice, unconcerned with primary fruit flavours. Keeps the pH lower and acids higher, maintaining flow and mouthfeel. The roundness and barrel effect are felt here in that Bourgogne chardonnay way. Apposite to Schrek. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Lust By Lukas Strobl Lust & Laune 2021, Wagram

“Not a big fan of the term but it is natural wine,” tells Lukas Strobl, son of Clemens. His skin contact blend combines grüner veltliner with chardonnay, unfined, unfiltered and sulphured minimally at bottling. From Clemens Strobl estate fruit and as noted in his and his father’s wines you can expect this subtly orange example to be as clean and crisp as possible. This first vintage is 2,600 bottles. Orange and lemon skin, persimmon and no off-putting funk, just the Mark Ronson and Pharrell Williams kind. Just a dream. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Donauschotter Riesling 2021

The Loess soils are heavy, aka Danube gravel and they can produce overly rich and fruity riesling so this is made in the driest possible style,. High in lime, acids in and around 7 g/L, a bit of boosted alcohol and more than anything a feeling of fullness in the mouth. Tart yellow plum, white peach and lemony finish. Classic dry riesling. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Rosen Riesling 2019

From the Rosenberg, one of the highest (380m) in terms of elevation which is at the height of the Wagram. A place of sunny and warm days through summer plus really cold winter nights. Also one of the rockiest/stoniest vineyards, worked botrytis free, passed through several times during harvest. Again in the arena of dry though clearly elevated in viscous mouthfeel, noticeable alcohol matched by some residual sugar though far less than many counterparts. Elegant and refined, age-able to a mid-term degree. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Riesling Pfaff 2019, Kremstal

From a 40-45 year-old vineyard, having been taken over in 2015, a stony, east facing block almost on a cliff. Drier, more intensity, precision and finesse. This is not about primary fruit at all and more concerned with drive, freshness and the kind of character that can accept great changes over time through the canals of elemental, mineral and gaseous shifts. Has begun and will accede to the secondary before too long. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Donauschotter Rosé 2021

From pinot noir and st. laurent aged in 25 different vessels, including clay amphora. The effect felt here is as much orange as it is Rosé but also a style that is dry, pale, elegantly tart and of a tang that’s also just faintly there. Would not refer to it as serious but certainly refined, akin to the agreeable whites and of a clear, focused and distinct advantageous style. Can really see this alongside braised pork, either belly or guanciale in pasta. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Clemens Strobl Pinot Noir Hengst 2019, Wagram

Not THAT Hengst but a single vineyard in the Wagram and 2011 being the first vintage. Spends nearly three years in wood and the style is one that wants flinty-smoky reduction from the natural yeasts, clearly spoken from 2019 though the warm vintage speaks right up. While it seems that this is not the past personality exhibited by this deliciously creamy pinot noir it also seems that this will be a big part of its future. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Lust Lukas Strobl Etretat 2020

Of sauvignon blanc, unfined, unfiltered and nowhere near the vicinity of grassy, green nor blowsy styles. That said there is more fruit than any of the Clemems Strobl wines, and also the orange. There is an immense wealth of fruit, layering character and possibility in this singular sauvignon blanc. It’s bloody delicious. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted November 2022

Lust Lukas Strobl Elafonisi 2020

Made from grüner veltliner, eight days on the skins, 30 per cent whole bunch, approaching orange but not quite at that territory. Natural in any case, by nature of the unfined, unfiltered and minimal sulphuring (at bottling) treatment. Captures the flinty-smoky smoulder though with more viscosity and palate density. Comes away with great stage presence, here as a the second try just after working harvest in the Mosel at Clemens Busch. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Lust Lukas Strobl Ureki 2019

Only 300L produced from one of the oldest cabernet sauvignon parcels in the Wagram, purchased in 2009 and becoming easier and easier to ripen the grapes. Much better adapted to this climate than it surely was when planted in the 1980s. OK so it’s still cool climate cabernet but this is the warmest of vintages from which ripeness is just about as close to phenolic fruition as it will get for the place. Just carries the feel of the Wagram, in spite of the variety, with a kind of evergreen and as with the whites, a smoky-flinty mineral feel, always present. From land and also winemaking, wanted and relished. Super refined and elegant tannins. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Ground Control to Dockner Tom

Dockner Tom – Thayern

The winery dates back to 1912 while the house is 580 years old. Dockner is a producer with a large and well-rounded portfolio, bottling regional, village, single-vineyard and 1ÖTW premium vineyard classified wines. The Dockner family have been vintners in Theyern for four generations and Tom credits his father for teaching him a great deal. His pursuit of quality and sustainable cultivation is integral to the family’s estate. Ried Theyerner Berg, Pletzengraben and Hochschopf are the most important sites, especially for grüner veltliner while riesling also thrives at Parapluiberg Mountain.

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Tom 2021, Traisental DAC

Quite a golden rich grüner veltliner of elevated ripeness and sapidity over salinity, über freshness and a drinkable nature that most people can really understand. A high-level entry wine with a top fruit core and no complications. Nor distractions and tangents neither. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Nussdorf 2021, Traisental DAC

A village wine from Nussdorf off of loess soils and always a bit creamy yet persistently fresh. Carries the classic white pepper and here with that light buzz, not effervescence but a definite hum. Tart and sapid again, almost blanched nut but not fully and all the while equally salty, direct and again, an easy wine to understand. Clean, crisp and really well made. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Ried Theyerner Berg 2021, Traisental DAC

From very chalky soil, a cool climate location, intensely taut and so very affected by the soil. Clearly, unequivocally and directly with more salinity than the regional or village examples to be frank and sure. Not an elastic texture or length but so very linear, upright and long. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Ried Pletzengraben 1ÖTW 2021, Traisental DAC

East facing hill on terraces, very chalky, with loess and stones. Fermented in large oak casks, just like the past and the result is a creamy, softly textured and downy wine with white chalky salinity though not really intense. An billowy example that drinks with ease. Drier than the Pletzengraben. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Ried Hochschopf 1ÖTW 2013, Traisental DAC

East facing hill on terraces, very chalky, with loess and stones. Fermented in large oak casks, just like the past. An older example and there is some terpene here, like apple juice, the fruit having been originally a bit bruised. Lemon preserve and decent acidity for sure so not a hot year but just some fruit that likely should have been sorted out. Drink 2022.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Grüner Veltliner Ried Hochschopf 1ÖTW 2010, Traisental DAC

East facing hill on terraces, very chalky, with loess and stones. Fermented in large oak casks, just like the past. An older example (tasted blind) from what feels like a much cooler vintage and the fruit is again apple though tart, green and with a white peppery bite. Good acid crunch here, lovely energy, so very grüner. Turns out to be 2010 and so the coolest vintage of the last 15 where picking lasted all the way into mid-November. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Riesling Ried Parapluiberg 2021, Traisental DAC

Parapluiberg as in the hill with the umbrella and a fresh, saline and acid led riesling. Really high acidity manages the 6-7 g/L of RS in a very Germanic style, more Rheinhessen than anything else, lime sharp, juiced and zesty. Good fruit here, vibrancy and really tart. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Riesling Ried Pletzengraben 1ÖTW 2021, Traisental DAC

Dockner Tom Riesling Ried Pletzengraben 1ÖTW 2017, Traisental DAC

Dockner Tom Riesling Ried Pletzengraben 1ÖTW 2016, Traisental DAC

Really interesting vintage tasted blind, very much in line with the grüner veltliner of 2013, fruit a bit bruised and here in riesling there is saffron, banana and pineapple. Acids are good though the fruit was obviously very ripe. Secondary stage showing petrol and botanicals. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Traminer Konglomerat 2021, Traisental DAC

Off-dry gelber muskateller and gewürztraminer, high in sgars but also acids for balance, from a rich vintage with highly tropical fruit like guava and pineapple. Actually a matter of 12 g/L of RS but only 6.5 of acidity, high for traminer. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Traminer Konglomerat 20007, Traisental DAC

Off-dry gelber muskateller and gewürztraminer, much older vintage but also one of extreme ripeness because the litchi is full on, as are the roses and blanched nuts. Not quite the richness of the warmest vintage but surely sharp and older at the same time. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Gelber Traminer Natur 2021

A natural white from gelber muskateller meets gewürztraminer 10 months on skins. Lemon and quite sweet fruit meets acids in a lovely wine, of no salve or distraction, very clean and fresh. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Pinot Noir Konglomerat 2019

Sees 300L barrels for 30 months after a long skin maceration. Light and creamy, tart and with enough tension to match the soft palate. Of a cool climate style where fruit hangs long, develops good phenolics and eerily like Nova Scotia actually. Could be a Lightfoot & Wolfville Ancienne, ostensibly if truly in the way it presents itself. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Dockner Tom Pinot Noir Konglomerat 2008

Older vintage tasted blind, showing plenty of age, caramel and bitters, warm vintage, a bit astringent. Quite volatile. Drink 2022.  Tasted November 2022

Alwin Jurtschitsch

Jurtschitsch – Langenlois

Alwin Jurtschitsch and Stephanie Hasselbach (formerly of Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen) have been working the vineyards since 2006 and immediately began transforming to organic back then. Their wines are a combination of old style classics and the new natural, loyal to grandparents while simultaneously focused on a new generation of wine drinkers. There are Pét-Nats and bottles made by skin-contact, unfined, unsulphured and unfiltered. There are also 1ÖTW premium site grüner veltliner and riesling in the tradition of modern day Wagram. Some wines are labeled Jurtschitsch while others carry the name of Alwin und Stefanie Jurtschitsch or Weingut Fuchs Und Hase.

Weingut Fuchs Und Hase Pet Nat Vol 3

Simply allowing sugar and yeast to make a second fermentation in the bottle but with high level and quality grüner veltliner. More than a different Pét-Nat but one that is more connected to grape variety and vineyard. How? You can just feel it. Leathery orange, candied fennel and root vegetables, toasty and sweet. Natural as far as the saying and the ideal goes. Far, far away from funkier and all the better for it. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 1ÖTW 2020, Kamptal

No doubt a reductive style of Kamptal winemaking and after tasting through a half dozen barrels of 2021 and 2022s the stylistic is fully confirmed. A two weeks partial stem maceration gives this Erste Lage so much texture, a wine you can chew, for a while and on from which you can extract all the juice, flavour and tannin. Orange, a tisane, sugar cane, lemon thyme and great length in a fine, thoughtful and uplifting wine. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Ried Kaferberg 1ÖTW 2020, Kamptal

Less reduction than the Lamm though even more extract and tannin, viscosity, unctuousness and a mineral-boozy feeling. Still it is linear, focused and upright. This reduction is linked to lees only, not sulphur, it’s not stinky and in fact completely a matter of fruit. A Burgundian one if you will and very practical for freshness and also longevity. From a southeastern parcel of the Kaferberg where the old vines grow. More filigranite and not just loess, a place of pyre rock. Makes for a most amazing expression of grüner veltliner, on the lee side where prevailing winds cool and instigate this very specific type of smoulder. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Ried Loisenberg 1ÖTW 2021, Kamptal

Loisenberg is the only single-vineyard erste lage bottled ahead of the harvest simply because it had done its work, unlike the Kaferberg and Lamm which were not. In fact the Lamm had not net even gone dry. Another reductive grüner but we’re lessening as we go through the range. Herbals, sweet ones that is, tonics and Limoncello. Searing, sharp, serious tang and the most citrus of any of the grand cru. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Amour Fou Natural Wine Trocken 2020, Kamptal

Full on Ried Loisenberg fruit under Alwin and Stephanie Jurtschitsch’s natural range, skin-contact, unfined, unsulphured and unfiltered. Skin maceration was quick, sent straight to barrel from press. Clearly Kamptal, not an amphora or orange stylistic, just something to distill the place into a transparent example. Nothing crazy about it, knowable, tannins at the top, extract in line, no funk, nor salve on the palate or earthiness at all. So clean and yes like looking in a Kamptal mirror. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Riesling Heligenstein 1ÖTW Alte Reben 2020, Kamptal

Alte Reben, aka old vines, and some say Heligenstein is the most unique reddish, desert sandstone soil not found anywhere else. Just this little hillside, also a very historical place. A great terroir, but not an easy one. Requires compost and hummus and if you get it right there is an entirely new kind of mineral and elemental push run through the vines and into the wines. Truly, that and a botanical density, a viscous herbology and lime intensity. My how this will develop and morph into something new, time after time. Completely dry, a result of vintage and barrel, not cru. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Riesling Quelle 2019

Made from a unique spot aboard the hill that is the Heligenstein where a natural spring exists in one of the driest places in Austria. Bottled natural and unfiltered, no enzymes, yeast and certainly no botrytis. Still buzzing with a minor amount of what feels like CO2 but really just sexy energy. Super juicy, orange distillate, tisane and zest. Crunchy, salty and fine. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Markus Huber – Reichersdorf, Traisental

The vineyards are cultivated according to organic guidelines and the entire winery is certified according to the “Sustainable Austria” criteria. Markus Huber tries to improve biodiversity by sowing plants that are favourable to vines, keeping bushes, trees and hedges around the vineyards and by using animals and beneficial organisms. All these measures come together to result in better soil quality and increased vine health – and, ultimately, in expressive and authentic wines typical of the region.  The vines are mainly planted on terraces – some of them quite minuscule – comprised of dry and very limy gravel soils. The Traisental valley is the only wine producing region of lower Austria where a most important limestone soil type can be found. Huber is the spearhead for the Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter, and organization of vintners from the Danube areas in Kremstal and Kamptal with the intention to identify and understand the diverse soils, the microclimate of the different vineyards and the impact of these factors on the varieties. The question posed was how do these conditions support quality and character in the wine? Thus in 2010 an attempt was made to classify the classic vineyards objectively. The awareness that great wines only thrive in great vineyards is inherent in this philosophy. The terms Klassifizierte Lage, Erste Lage and Große Erste Lage were thus defined.

Markus Huber

Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Terassen 2021, Traisental, Niederösterreich, Austria

Esssentially the “estate” grüner veltliner, of 15 parcels from north to south separated by 10 kms harvested between 10 days and two weeks in the Traisental. As precise as it gets for grüner with a little bit of skin contact, zero botrytis, bone dry (with help from a cultured yeast). Big licensee pour so it has to be dry and consistent. White liquid peppery, taut yet not tight and notably sapid, surely an agglomerated grab of conglomerate rock from around the region. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Nussdorfer Obere Steigen 2021, Traisental, Niederösterreich, Austria

Essentially the “villages” grüner veltliner, from Nussdorfer, of six vineyards, vines in and around 25 years and picked on average 10 days later than the Terrassen. More weight, physiological ripeness and complexity than the Terrassen. Focus and precision as well though still an averaged out or at least layered expression to speak of a more confined sense of Traisental space. Saltier as well though hard not to notice the sapidity too. This just has that balanced posit tug between the two. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Markus Huber Grùner Veltliner Ried Alte Setzen 1ÖTW 2021, Traisental, Niederösterreich, Austria

Single vineyard from the pressed rock of the name that combines limestone with sand and clay formed by the retreating Traisen River formed 10 million years ago. the soils here are very shallow and roots dig very deep to find nutrients in the water table below. Saltier, slightly lower in pH and conversely not as sapid as the Zwirch. Fermented in large traditional oak casks and the result here speaks to limestone in the most direct, fresh and high spirited way. Chiseled for grüner veltliner. Drink 2023-2028.  Tasted November 2022

Markus Huber Grùner Veltliner Ried Zwirch 1ÖTW 2021, Traisental, Niederösterreich, Austria

A warm summer and cool fall, considered as a very strong vintage, doused in lime, no real petrol and this was in fact the first year where the vines sat under the hail nets so that they received dappled light instead of direct sun. The Berg is a top site and makes grand jour, grand cru wines. This is cracker riesling. Top, top. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2022

A natural wine made since 2017, always changing, thus the name. Varietal grüner veltliner picked earlier to lessen alcohol, ferments for four months in concrete egg, racked off, sent back in without sulphur for six more months on the gross lees and only sulphured minimally (20 bbm) at bottling. Preserved lemon is the crux and the focus, that being how textured it presents as a varietal wine in the natural vein. Even the tisane and the poached or blanched flavours are yellow citrus with creamed pine nuts or hummus in the mix. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Grown on blocks where the grüner veltliner and riesling don’t and yet this is from an Erste Lage site. Harvested on the 30th of October so the phenolic vernacular is one from a long growing season. A mix of 30 percent whole bunch and 70 from separated grapes for a minor carbonic maceration. Maximum two weeks for the whole process and racked off into 500L Bourgogne barrels, left on lees for 10 months. Vines were planted in 2004, 777 (Bourgogne) and one German clone. Waited 10 years before bottling as pinot noir. Quite round and creamy, unfiltered and low by intervention. Finishes with just a fraction of extending tension to keep interest and see the wine age just a few years. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Matthias Warnung

Matthias Warnung – Kamptal

Welcome to the low intervention winemaking world of Matthias Warnung. Warnung farms 10 hectares in the Kamptal after taking over the winery from his father in 2010. Matthias has worked with other winemakers, including Craig Hawkins, the South African natural winemaker behind the brand Testalonga. He also worked alongside Tom Lubbe of Matassa in the Roussillon. Organically raised grüner veltliner and riesling rest in large old casks for several years, always after wild ferments, extended skin contact and minimal sulphuring.

Matthias Warnung Grüner Veltliner Potato Land 2021

“It is Kartoffelland around here” smiles Matthias Warnung. Potatoes are everywhere and the jest is real though Warnung is anything but a tongue and cheek comic. No, he is a dead serious vine-grower and winemaker, young, precocious and deeply rooted in the tradition of the Ernst Warnung estate. Just calling a spud a spud and this grüner veltliner is an agriculturalists’ way of keeping in touch with 10-plus hectares of vines surrounded by the Kartofel. Perhaps there is a wink-wink suggestion here from a producer who sometimes makes wines unconnected to appellation but in any case the minor skin-contact and playful nature offers plenty of good fun. A joyous and textural grüner, herbal, dry and expertly spoken in layers of loess, clay and chalk. A terrific and affordable cuvée, knowable and yet just a bit different. Cheeky even. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Matthias Warnung Grüner Veltliner Espere 2020

This step up in grüner veltliner character and texture puts this minimal intervention example into a “Villages” level of expression, first from higher quality and older vines’ fruit but also with thanks to two years spend in large older casks. Tightly wound whilst in that balanced middle zone, above a regional roundness yet still shy of a rich and not quite opened single-vineyard style. In fact it seems that only this level delivers a truly authentic grüner veltliner experience, at least so far as it registers under the guidance of Matthias Warnung. Overall this smoulders lightly and finishes wholly and unequivocally sharp. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2022

Matthias Warnung Grüner Veltliner Lossling Single Vineyard (Barrel Sample) 2017

Younngest vineyards are bottled after one year. Village wines are two years. The single vineyards minimum five. Aging is done in a cold and humid cellar, barrels cleaned of the nitrates every ten odd years. The grüner veltliner is whole bunch pressed, of a wild ferment and straight to 300L barrel in the 350 year-old cellar. Will be bottled in December after five years, sulphured 15-25 mg at the end. The Jean-Pierre Frick of the Kamptal but this is incredibly clean and pure, far less oxidative and nervous. Now honeyed, paraffin waxy, of lemon preserve with great tension and energy. Acids run the show and texture is lovely. Carefully considered, slowly developed, a process and structured to last. Drink 2022-2030.  Tasted November 2022

Matthias Warnung Riesling Single Vineyard (Barrel Sample) 2017

The oldest part of the grüner veltliner vineyard houses riesling, vines around 40 years of age, made in the same way as the Lossling grüner veltliner. Whole bunch pressed, wild ferment and straight to 300L barrel in the 350 year-old cellar. Will be bottled in December after five years, sulphured 15-25 mg at the end. Noses more like older riesling than the grüner does for that variety but the tension here is greater, the fruit skin scents muskier and more intense. Some evergreen here, pencil shaving and more skin-contact feeling in a Gravner meets Fino kind of way. Green olive, almond skin and lime. Complex and fascinating.  Drink 2022-2029.  Tasted November 2022

Klaus and Viktoria, Weinkultur Preiß

Weinkultur Preiß – Thayern

Fifth generation winemaker Viktoria Preiss and partner Klaus are most concerned with nurturing balanced and healthy soils, healthy vines and grapes. It is what they call “close-to-nature cultivation, certified organic by Austria Bio Garantie and from the 2025 vintage forward they will be officially certified organic. They employ self-produced compost and most importantly diverse cover crops for the purpose of increasing biodiversity, control erosion, provide nutrition, work against soil compaction and produce humus for long term gains. To combat the grape vine moth they use pheromones instead of insecticides. Of great interest has been the decision to use the pruning method of Simonit & Sirch, to increase the overall balance of their vines and to make them more resistant against viral diseases.

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Kammerling 2021, Traisental DAC

Moving to the most northern vineyard in the valley with a grüner veltliner of notable vintage richness, warmth and clear late harvest concentration. An elevated pH for high sapidity and while the acidity is perfectly fine it is certainly not high or up front, nor centre stage. Classic ripe to ripest tonic finish. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Ried Rosengarten 2019, Traisental DAC

Retreating back two years and again from the most northern vineyard in the valley with here another warm, if quite a bit warmer vintage. Already showing some secondary character, petrol and saffron, likely due to a touch of botrytis in this vintage. Drink 2022.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Brunndoppel 2021, Traisental DAC

Moving from the most northern vineyard (Rosengarten) to further south where the bedrock of limestone makes it difficult for the vines to burrow down in search of nutrients. Brunndoppel refers to two water sources beneath the vineyard and is a monopole under the framing of the Preiß famly, high in elevation and approximately three hectares total. Still the richness and ripeness but this is very youthful and sharp, working through its edges, tight and stretching. Drier than the previous 2020 and 2017, more focused and well made out of a very good vintage. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Brunndoppel 2020, Traisental DAC

Southern reaches of the Traisental, where limestone bedrock is hard and vines must burrow to seek nutrients below. The name Brunndoppel makes reference to two water sources beneath the soil, a monopole farmed only by the family Preiß – their three hectare Grüner Veltliner grand cru if you will. Works to converse positivity, here from a very cool vintage. Lovely movement and a good balance between ripeness and tension, fruit and rock, all wrapped up in sweet acidity. Well made here. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Brunndoppel 2017, Traisental DAC

Showing age and a warmer vintage to create this warm, fuzzy, soft and creamy wine. What grüner veltliner was and still can be, likely some botrytis involved, certainly some residual sugar and tastes like traditional Alsace pinot gris or blanc. Drink 2022.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Berg 2021, Traisental DAC

Highest and coolest vineyard of the Cru because by three or four pm the forest casts shade over the vineyard. Limestone based soil as well, upwards of 380m and the only portion that has iron rich red in the earth. Vines are young, just about 10 years of age at this point and chardonnay was planted here before. With her third vintage in pocket is shows that Viktoria Preiß has this innate understanding of the vineyard better then the others she works with. This grüner veltliner shows more precision and finesse, clarity too. Then again this is Berg. It’s exceptionality is consistent, so long as its custodians don’t mess it up. The connection between richness and tension is justly executed. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Berg 2020, Traisental DAC

Highest and coolest vineyard of the Cru because by three or four pm the forest casts shade over the vineyard. Limestone based soil as well, upwards of 380m and the only portion that has iron rich red in the earth. Vines are young, just about 10 years of age at this point and chardonnay was planted here before. Again Berg shows its stripes and produces a fine grüner veltliner though really at the maximum ripeness here with some, but not too much residual sugar. Luxe and soft, already moving forward. The winemaking is spot on, that much is clear. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Riesling Kammerling 2021, Traisental DAC

Floral riesling, smelling like white roses, lilacs and white peach. Flavour profile is quite similar though with a pretty distinct orange juicing. Like fresh squeezed, a wet stony note and the name Kammer comes from chamber, as in the holes in conglomerate chalky limestone rocks where fossils fit in. Lovely wine, sugars a bit heavier than acids can withstand, but a lovely wine. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Riesling Pletzengraben 2021, Traisental DAC

In Viktoria Preiß’s estimation her part of the Pletzengraben is close to the woods and so it benefits from the cooling effect but also from some wind coming down from the alps. That said it’s not a windy block and so hard work has to be done in the vineyard. Her harvest last four weeks, often stretching into the first week of November. Truly sapid riesling, apposite to salty, so mineral either way. Not as much tension as some of the other crus but a really fine wine. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Weinkultur Preiß Riesling Pletzengraben 2020, Traisental DAC

Relatively soft fruit, mashed peaches and guava, much richer than 2021. Bright and enough freshness maintained though again almost traditionally older-schooled Alsatian, with more residual sugar and elasticity. That said the acidity is also noticed a bit higher in this particular 2020. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Top, top seminar for @austrianwine with our @winealign own @johnszaboms and Roman Horvath MW of @domanewachau

Toronto Austria Tasting, Nov. 11th, 2022

Zull Grüner Veltliner 2021, Weinviertel DAC

From the first DAC, created in 2002, here made in a classic, 12.5 per cent abv style. The traditional bottle and label indicate classic birthright and heritage housing a grüner veltliner that dutifully follows the line. The grind of white pepper is right there, that influence of Rotundone unavoidable and correct. Fruit of actionability and purpose with the tonic and bitter hints consistently pushed on the palate and back end of the wine. Fennel and green herbs, crisp and fresh. It will be some time before this begins to show any maturity though it does feel as though it has already eased in to a place soft and settled. Yet the good energy persists and the wine sparks in fits and spurts, leaving behind that white pepper fuelled vapour trail. Look back at the final peak of performance in 2025 and likely say still crunchy after all these years. Drink 2023-2025.  Tasted November 2022 and January 2023

Domäne Baumgartner Grüner Veltliner Reserve Kti By Katharina Baumgartner 2021, Weinvertel DAC

In Reserve style the ripeness and by consequence the alcohol raises a point up to 13.5 per cent abv and in this Weinvertel from a winemaker who plays cellar music to her wines in tank and barrel, that being Katharina Baumgartner. The dry factor keeps this clean, fresh and precise and though the alcohol is upwards to generosity this is grüner that stays fine, focused and in balance. No wood but yes some malolactic and an elastic to ever so slightly creamy mouthfeel. Think lime cordial but one dry and satisfying. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner Reserve Ried Kremser Wachtberg 2021, Kremstal DAC

In Reserve the alcohol will always rise and here with just a point or point and a half of extra residual sugar the result finishes at 14 per cent abv. That said the vintage is very positive and so winemakers could play here and there, as this Krems shows. Feels a touch boozy, like a spirit and a dry mixer, botanical, herbal, green pepper to a degree and a hyperbole of white pepper, yet liquid as opposed to powdery. Quite a punch and pungent single vineyard example. Makes its presence known. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner “Belle Naturelle” 2021, Österreich

Newer style, well-known producer and from their natural wine range. Some skin contract and in actuality two full weeks because you’d not really guess that. Dry as the Styrian desert (sic) and seriously taut though not a wine of texture or salve dissolve. Edgy with sound roundness at its edges, middle of the road in natural wine terms. Clean expression, in a post or neo-alternative way. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Sonnemulde Riesling “Organic” 2021, Burgenland

From Burgenland where there really isn’t much planting of riesling but here from stony sites in the Danube the result is lean, simple and just lovely. Easy of residual sugar (5.3 g/L) and really well balanced, charming even, matched by (6.6) of acidity. Gains flesh and stature with time and offers peach, lime and moderate intensity. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Rabl Riesling Ried Langenloiser Steinhaus “Rote Erde” 2020, Kamptal DAC Reserve

A bit more alcohol and technically a “dry” wine because under 9 g/L of residual sugar (and here just below that number) the balance is struck with even more total acidity. This is cool climate riesling and so no shock or problem with this elevated stylistic conditioning. There is no lack of tension but the stone fruit generosity is even stronger in a true nectarine meets lime doused green mango flavour profile. Fresh and full which is a really good combination. Drink 2022-2026.  Tasted November 2022

Deim Gerhard Riesling Ried Irbling 2019, Dac Kamptal

Another top site for riesling in Austria, here the intensity is matched by fruit flesh because of a warm vintage and fuller if quicker ripening. Tart in the most readily available implosive way and though there is some noted residual sugar there is also classic acid balancing and finishing tonic. Incredibly well made wine. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2021, Wachau

One of the top sites for riesling in Austria and with the great if dry vintage on record there is a magnificent presence but also balance accorded this riesling. Certainly more phenolic with thanks to a combination of cool fermentation and also extended skin contact while aromatics are at peak because of this pitch-perfect capture. The length is just amazing. Controlled power and grace run throughout. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Ziniel NV Weinland Muskatteler “Muskat”

Fun with muscat, lively, juicy, 11 per cent low, no musk or funk, just summertime beauty. Imagine certain modern beers or ciders that are just dry enough and sparked for glory. Made from the yellow muscat variety and simply glou-glou. Essentially natural but not the matter at the end of the day when you just want a quench of thirst. Drink 2022-2023.  Tasted November 2022

Zahel Wiener Gemischter Satz Grosslage Nussberg 2021, Vienna

From the category where something like 27 grape varieties are permitted and in a field blend drawn out of beneficial ecosystems, regenerative agriculture and maybe most importantly – bio-diversity. A truly flesh-centric and stone fruit notable GS, just ever so slightly sweet and a ripe example from Vienna vineyards on the north side of the city. Drink 2022-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Muster Gamlitz Sauvignon Blanc Ried Grubthal 2021, Südsteiermark DAC

Not only a dry, stoic and pragmatic example of sauvignon blanc but an intense one in the most expressive way possible. But not only this. The impression left on one’s mind and palate is both profound and imagination will go to the crazy steep Syrian slopes in this part of Austria. Hard not to notice this wine that was almost certainly a challenge to produce. Needs time to digest the 28 months of lees aging in wood. There is gravitas, density and texture in ways others would appreciate like those from Graves. Drink 2023-2026.  Tasted November 2022

George Toifl Weissburgunder Ried Seeleiten “Ge.Org” 2021, Niederösterreich

Quite amazing how pinot blanc will always express as itself, regardless of place. This could be from Alsace, southern Germany, the Okanagan Valley and also here from Austria. The fruit is all stone orchard, the texture almost glycerin, the nut notes both sweet and fleshy. Aged in new large casks which is almost incredible to believe because the assimilation is just ideal. Drink 2022-2024.  Tasted November 2022

Taferner Zweigelt Ried Bärnreiser 1ÖTW 2019, Carnuntum DAC

From a predominantly red wine area though in Carnuntum there are only 900 hectares (in total) planted. Exuberant fruitiness, soft and sweet tannins, quite Burgundian in a regional to good Villages example kind of way. Light, fresh and really elegant with good extraction, some oak influence and as you work with it the flesh from maceration becomes apparent. Dry, of healthy alcohol, ripe and ultimately serious. Drink 2022-2025.  Tasted November 2022

Johanneshof Reinisch St. Laurent Thermenregion 2019

Quite a heavy example of st. laurent from a highly emblematic producer and their look at a variety related to pinot noir. The connection feels relatable to that cooler part of Bourgogne near Vézelay where some wild, rustic, reductive and musky animale is both distinctive and knowable. Chewy, leathery and for those who don’t know or haven’t had the pleasure, surely an acquired taste. Needs a year (or preferably two) to settle and integrate. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Groszer Wein Blaufränkisch “Tiroler” Österreich 2020

Clear example of a grape variety that knows how to express terroir and here from the Burgenland the case is open and shut. Chalky from clay and schist, hematic, less fruity in style, heavy but not dense, textural, just beginning to begin the slow dissolve. Leathery and savoury, a varietal soul stew of blue and red fruit with impressive structure. A hit of bretty volatility comes late and explains the need to lay this down for two years plus. Drink 2024-2028.  Tasted November 2022

MAD Blaufränkisch Ried Marienthal 2018, Leithaberg DAC

A lighter and fruitier style yet that is relative because there is also some peppery reduction, tension and structure in this blaufränkisch. Botanicals and earthy scrub plus foliage mix with the damson plum, red to black currants and really textural, wood influenced in an almost creamy palate way. Really long and less reductive but also volatile as time works wonders on the wine. Drink 2023-2027.  Tasted November 2022

Good to go!

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