Twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024

Dec27

‘Tis an exercise performed year after year, a word processor’s per annum distillation to say thank you and recognize game. To consistently act as messenger, be conscious of hard work filed and to celebrate that excellence. The first list was conceived more than 10 years ago, now peaking at its current number with twenty-four mind-blowing wines chosen for 2024. Travels to fluctuating destinations mean from year to year wine regions will carry different weight and the list abides by the variance. In 2023 Bordeaux played a significant role, as did South Africa and Washington in 2022, Bourgogne in 2019, and so on. The rules of engagement never change but evolution plays its part, priorities pivot and you never can say or tell what sorts of matters will strike deep into the heart.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Godello needs to make a confession, shed some honesty, clear the air. He admits to a love for writing tasting notes and needing to do it, especially when a potentially mind-blowing wine is in the glass and what follows flows forth as a stream of consciousness, ending only when the creative tap closes naturally. When these notes are edited weeks or even months later there is the incredulous feeling of “how did this get written – where did these words come from?” They just did, from right out of the wellspring of creativity, but Godello does not know how he came to write those notes – as if they were magically written. Paragraphs woven from dots and thoughts for unsuspecting connections between writings and wine, such as “Ribelle è colui che si distingue.” Translated as, or better yet in reference to “the rebel is the one who recognizes the unjust law and breaks free from it,” from Ernst Jünger’s 1951 “The Rebel’s Treatise.” The German philosopher, essayist and WWII captain was once called die Burgunderszene because he watched a bombing raid in Paris while sipping Burgundy. The stylish supervillain of twentieth-century German literature’s disquisition shared dire and prophetic words on what a future world would be, in what he called the “Age of the Titans.”

Godello beneath a massive Tuscan Mazza di Tamburo/Parasol Mushroom

Or this. “The label represents the position of the vines in coordinates, echoed in the machicolations of a sangiovese that drops all the stones on unsuspecting palates through fruit openings between supporting acid corbels of a projecting tannic parapet.” Where did that come from? Or simply, “who needs fruit when you have rocks?”

ColleMassari

More than rugs tie rooms together – lyrics, song titles, movie quotes, literary passages, exchanges between a journalist and a poet, thinker, writer, actor or composer – they are all a part of the masala. Reminds of a 2021 interview with a reluctant prophet. “Try to sit down and write something like that – there’s a magic to that and it’s not Siegfried & Roy kinda magic you know, it’s a different kind of penetrating magic.” All kidding comparisons aside with Bob Dylan’s answers to Ed Bradley in that famous 60 minutes exchange, but they may just be artistic words to live by. And why Godello? “You call yourself what you want to call yourself. This is the land of the free.” As for the relevance of wine tasting notes, sure it feels like being “a wordsmith from bygone days,” but it still feels right. And necessary. And unavoidable. A bottomless pit of cultural oblivion? No, not that. Tasting notes tell stories that need to be told. Relayed by messengers fulfilling a destiny to visit and break bread with good people making great wines and in turn agreeing to relay their tales. Tasting notes are the chronicles, expressed as narrative, of anecdotes woven through prose. If there is a better way to say what needs to be said it has not yet been found.

Chianti Classico’s Cento Anni

As of today’s date and the publishing of this year-end list Godello has reviewed 4,225 wines. If the origins of said wines were to be separated into categories than the breakdown would be as follows. Thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (8) Piemonte, (6) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (14) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 24, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2024. Here are his twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024.

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, Vdp. Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Adega Do Vulcáo (c) entrevinhas.com

Adega Do Vulcáo Ameixâmbar 2022, Açores IG

A seriously volcanic blend of native grapes from two areas, first the ash of the Capelinhos and second the basalt of the Criaçào Velha. Add in the cold Atlantic influence and the result is something extraordinary to potentially mind-blowing. That depends on how much flint struck rock, mineral mouthfuls and deepening trajectories you may or not desire in your endemically-formulated white wines. Ameixambar is just such an animal and the profile, especially noted with verve and lashes upon the palate, is well, remarkable. Nothing else feels or tastes like this wine. Truly salty and there are notes that imagine powder created by crushing many different shells, inclusive of oyster, calm and mussel. You may ask yourself what is this, but you can answer with a simple word, or place. Açores. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2024

Inama I Palchi Grande Cuvée Foscarino Soave Classico DOC 2021

I Palchi, as in the “stages,” a geographical term for a series of wide terraces aboard Monte Foscarino lined with pergolas of old garganega vines. In this case Inama’s highest level of Soave Classico meant to celebrate the ancients. As a surname it belonged to a cleric but also Antonio Foscarini (c. 1570 in Venice – 22 April 1622), member of the Venetian nobility, ambassador to Paris, London and later sentenced to death for high treason by the Council of Ten and executed. Yikes! This Foscarino ode is intended towards grapes and volcanic terroir for a bloody incredible garganega of substance and style. The ’21’s ability to attract and engage the taster’s attention is at the top of the Soave game. Fresh, flinty and wholly engaging. Mind-blowing actually. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted December 2024

Marqués De Murrieta Capellanía Reserva Blanco 2018, Rioja DOCa

Only viura grapes are chosen from a six hectare calcareous clay plot off of 70 year-old vines located at the highest elevation of the Marqués De Murrieta Ygay Estate. The winemaking might well be working with sauvignon blanc and sémillon but with viura the ageing in French barrels takes a turn for the unexpected ethereal. The flinty smoulder is an intoxicant of the most hypnotizing order. The effect upon the palate and all the senes is extraordinary – mesmerizing. So what is Capellanía? In Spain it was a chantry or ecclesiastical endowment, one of several pious works commonly founded during the colonial period. A foundation in which certain assets are subject to the fulfillment of masses and other pious charges. Imaginatively speaking Capellanía is a rarity, monoceros, symbol of grace purity, power and transcendence. Not to mention healing powers and freedom. A unicorn. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted June 2024

Vanessa Cherruau
(c) media.ouest-france.fr

Château De Plaisance Sur La Butte 2021, Anjou AOP

A wildly aromatic two cabernet blend from the Butte de Chaume where some of the finest wines made anywhere come from Chaume, Quarts de Chaume and Savennières. The curiosity and modernist approach is made two-fold by the presence of cabernet sauvignon to stride effortlessly alongside the usual franc. Yes this smells like the Loire but the aromas deliver so much more, in curiosity and intriguing sensations. Anjou in place and temperament but in design this may as well be a contemporary, abstract or Pop Art piece by François Morellet. The two related varieties form an almost intricate geometric pattern in the way they line the palate, so cleanly drawn with mathematical clarity. Yes this is serious Loire red wine but it’s also traceable, pre-minimalist and post conceptual by design. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2024

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Domaine De Bellene Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots Bourgogne AOC 2022

In the woods as they say, “souches” or here “Suchots,” a 0.2159 hectare block in Vosne-Romanée that hangs a little longer, likely because the forest asks it to. Fresher, high spirited and savoury Bourgogne comes from the vineyard, picked on September 5th, coming away with more phenolic grip and aromatic volume because of the place. Less defined in 2022 perhaps because of a vintage’s great munificence but as far as plots in this area are concerned there are few that will speak as clearly as Les Suchots. Seamless and focused, unique as they come in an era of technical proficiency and expertise. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted August 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted September 2024

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadia and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

The hill within the hill, Bricco Pernice upon Ravera, isolated, insulated and encapsulated for nebbiolo of an insular and implosive intensity that’s likely unparalleled anywhere else in Novello. Closed and not because of vintage but due to time and really that’s about it A broad shouldered and muscular nebbiolo that must be given as much bottle time as it spent in cask, or double that for even better results. That means check back in 2026 or later to see if any part of the tannins have unfolded, unfurled or stretched out for some exercise. Likely not but then some parts will finally have as the decade unwinds. Also it’s normal in January for Pernice to be tight and a bit closed. Oh, by the way this was made with 100 PERCENT WHOLE BUNCH NEBBIOLO. For Barolo. Single vineyard Barolo from a storied MGA. Walter’s mid-life crisis begins right here and it’s glorious. Drink 2029-2045. Tasted January 2024

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

A top echelon cru, a producer that gets it as well as if not better than the rest and an eponymous label out of a relationship that develops longevity without equal. That would be the thrilling isosceles trilogy of Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Bricco Boschis and Barolo. Their 2010 is as youthful as any nebbiolo of this age, striking, rising, invigorating and still working through its operations. A performance piece of varietal for landscape as the most terroir driven Barolo as any of the best in the land can be. A triangle of Castiglione Falletto that speaks in unequivocal terms, fruit, acid and tannin intertwined, five years of this life still laid out ahead, 10 further for curiosity and interest beyond. Truth. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted January 2024

Poggio Lombrone, Tenuta di Montecucco

Collemassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2018

I walked this vineyard only recently upon arriving to the Castello di Montecucco at the advent of a blue-lit twilight on the second Sunday in November. The impression was a captivating one, from the site, its undulating slopes casting a strong and forceful presence. Poggio Lombrone was first made in 2007 and ColleMassari’s voice was instrumental in securing the DOCG for Montecucco sangiovese. A special vineyard with older plant material than just about anywhere in Montecucco, upwards of 60 years now and THE place to promote the authenticity, but also to preserve the local savoir-faire that distinguishes Montecucco sangiovese. Longest ager in Riserva togs because of potential, a wine of località Cinigiano fermented for at least 30 days (and 45 in 2016) in open Gamba casks with daily (hand) punchdowns to realize a production of 9,000-10,000 bottles. Ages in only two or three year-old grandi botti but not in really old casks. French of a few years are ideal to seek and attain the desired elegance. The 2018 is a strong version of varietal independence off of the Lombrone hillside, upright and linear yet never found to be awkward, though it is a wine of tannic charge. Fine tannins in fact with good energetic pulse, still needing more integration, its ceiling set ultra high. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2020

Montosoli the northerly Montalcino mound, the hill of freshness, the knoll where sangiovese gains grip, savour and elegance, where Canalicchio di Sopra’s Vigna designate Brunello from six hectares delivers approximately five into this wine. The precision and fluidity of this ’20 is just about as fine and graceful as the Ripaccioli have ever produced. Literally the juice or blood of Montosoli’s Galestro, a clay-schist flaking at the surface bleeding back down into the earth, acquired by the roots, vacuumed back up into the vines and gifted to the bunches. Sapidity is similar to 2018 and that year was cold(er) which explains how soil is such the driver, especially for Montosoli. This tastes as you might expect, concentrated, texturally full and without pause. Incredible Brunello. Poised, seemingly ready but not, looking ahead two decades, maybe more. With thanks to perfectly restrained cellar work, timing and decision making. In this moment, at least in terms of clarity, 2020 is a Montosoli vintage. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2024

With Giacomo Neri

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Cerretalto 2019

The Cerretalto canyon is this singular Brunello’s origin, the place defined by Giacomo Neri as a “plintite,” of quartz, iron and magnesium elements residing next to and bleeding into the four hectare vineyard, which is incidentally a cooler località for Montalcino and very special place. Rare in the world, of an elemental-geological symbiosis found in parts of Australia, Brazil, China and here, in Montalcino. “It’s another planet” insists Giacomo Neri. You will smell blood and flint (a.k.a. gunpowder) because of the mineral personality. This is Brunello di Montalcino from sangiovese something altogether incomparable. A sangiovese wearing the terroir of a Tuscan trough on its sleeve, having spent two and a half years in tonneaux (more or less 20 percent new) and the same amount of time in bottle ahead of its much anticipated release. Yes the aromatics are concerned with trace metals and ingredients of the “canalone” of Torrenieri, but do not sleep on the purity and modernity of red to black fruit, or at least the perception brought forth because of the minerals involved. Sweetness of acidity is classic Casanova di Neri for 2020 but in Cerretalto they are near perfect and the tannins move from those noted out of Tenuta Nuova multiplied by the Giovanni Nero fineness to now enter into the arena of higher love. For the first time this estate’s Brunello di Montalcino should be given an absurd amount of time. Observing it change in the glass over 30 minutes explains much of what is needed to be known. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2024

Contrada Chiesa, Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane, Torano Nuova

Nothing else noses like this montepulciano and what is also perceived is the extreme youth of such an example. Gifts with shadowy hints and generous ideas but the sensations yet to come are manyfold, if quite possibly infinite. Fruit source just feels tops and selection so much more stringent than just about any in the appellation. Tannins are about as tight as any in all of Abruzzo and the interplay between fruit and structure is both playful but also gripped by an intensity of tension. A few sips gathers the swarthiness of the vintage but time will elasticize and disperse the parts. The potential here is great and if this is not looked upon as a top vintage today there will be times over the next 25 years where that opinion is challenged. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted March 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035. Tasted May 2024

Vineyards in Ulmo

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Coonawarra, South Australia

From vines planted in 1994 and 1996 right there where it matters within Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip. The Menzies, as in the name of the estate where the Hill-Smith family saw the future back in 1992, there on a flat plain, approximately 70 km from the coast. The cooling Bonney upwelling is an influence and the red soil is, well everything. That said 2017 was a wet and cool season by Coonawarra standards and harvest required many passes over a 10-day period in April. Climate being what climate has become translates as a special cabernet sauvignon because the cool factor, for gelid fruit and sweet savour, not to mention more complex notions of herbs, spices and seasoning than you could seemingly fit into one bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Complexity be glory, as they say and the rest will be history. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted October 2024

Good to go!

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A Prowein dash through the Nebbiolo of Mauro Molino

Aug28

Martina Molino

Back in March of 2024 during Godello’s most recent dash through the Prowein Wine Fair there was an unforgettable one hour sit down and reconnect with Martina Molino and Sara Cortese of La Morra’s Maura Molino. The Molino story may only officially date to 1973 but their’s is a pivotal one because of the early focus and dedication on viticulture. Martina Molino’s brother Matteo started with the family in 2003 and she studied oenology in Alba, graduating in 2008. She followed up with further studies in economics, then joined Molino in 2010. Today Martina is the head oenologist responsible for some of Barolo’s most forward thinking nebbiolo that maintain a link to the tradition her father heeded and helped to develop. Mauro Molino is one of the region’s neo-modern pioneers who helped make certain that Langhe Nebbiolo DOC and Barolo DOCG wines could and would evolve. Molino made this happen favourably with smart agricultural but also risk-taking decisions and his legacy will be remembered for establishing a respectful and visionary way of ushering Piedmontese vineyards and wines into the present. Martina’s firm grasp of the reigns sees her family’s wines take on a whole and more profound meaning because of her uncanny ability to tame varietal austerity without compromising structural integrity. A coherence run through the portfolio sees to maturity at the measured pace of great nebbiolo.

At Prowein Wine Fair

The Nebbiolo

The Langhe Nebbiolo is from Roero in the village of Gueda. There are five Barolo, beginning with the “Villages” which comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri, with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. Gallinotto is a sub-parcel of the MGA Beri (“Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, or Additional Geographical Mention), a long underestimated and abandoned area where people thought Mauro Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation. Yet he made the discovery before deciding to research, invest in and resurrect the vineyard. Beri could be the “helmut,” or perhaps “a small chicken,” from Piedmontese dialect, now also Italian. Truth is Gallinotto comes from the nearby hamlet of the same name. La Serra is an historically important cru in La Morra and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Bricco Luciani is the vineyard in the hamlet of Annunziata in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. One of the most prestigious Cru of La Morra, part of the old estate of the nearby convent of Marcenasco.

The Tasting

Mauro Molino Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2022

“A wine that should always have its own identity, not a de-classified Barolo,” insists Martina Molino. From Roero in the village of Gueda. The nebbiolo has been made from this paese from the beginning. Sandy but not like Canale and the aromas, but also the favours deliver a calcareous sensation, a sweet metallic profile that’s almost, but not quite bloody. Just a matter of a feeling bled from finely decomposed soil and so the lightness of this wine’s hue, its gentle florals and soft tannins complete the ideal. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo 2020

A “Villages” styled example from the La Morra estate in supply of top quality fruit so proficient for a rifornimento of the Molino Classico. A part comes from the mix of (lower) Annunziata and (upper) Beri with the other (30 percent) from Monforte d’Alba. At once clean and fresh then also a touch baritone and down to earth. Should you find yourself in a wine shop staring down a crowded section of villages-designate Barolo then feel confident to choose Molino because of its quintessentially honest character and style. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo Gallinoto 2020, La Morra

From a parcel within the Beri MGA, an abandoned area that Mauro Molino discovered and decided to research, invest in and resurrect. A place where people thought Senore Molino was crazy to develop, especially at the elevation but the small plot that makes 8,000 bottles has evolved into a magnificent place to make Barolo. The “helmut” of Beri, at 380-400m and no protection from the elements swirling in from the surrounding hills. Breezy place of winds both hot and then running cold that make for nebbiolo of spicy and almost white peppery notes. Silken, just now settling and agreeable tannins make for a balanced Barolo that will also live long. Gallinotto is exceptional no matter how you consider, asses or confirm it. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted March 2024

Martina Molino and Sara Cortese

Mauro Molino Barolo Bricco Luciani 2020, La Morra

The vineyard in front of the winery at a lower part of La Morra. Very different, in fact an about face type of nebbiolo as compared to Gallinotto. A sandy and calcareous soil tranlasted to nebbiolo that is so very La Moresse, lithe and elegant but also earthy as per its terroir. Stricter tannins though not too much tension, but yes a fine austerity that means wait two years and drink for 10 after that. At this stage the wine unfurls and unrolls, with a pregnant pause, just one minute after it is gone. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo La Serra 2020, La Morra

First vintage of La Serra was 2010 and the last single cru Barolo to be designated and produced at Molino. One of the more popular but also diverse cru in La Morra. Different from top to bottom and side to side, high elevation like Gallinotto but in this case protected by the surrounding hills. Only 2,700 bottles made and its vines average age is 55. Austerity but more breadth and depth to the tannin with a bursting fleshiness to this nebbiolo, broad and impressive, muscular and patented. Serious wine. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted March 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo Conca 2020, La Morra

So, Conca is the flagship wine of the estate, already important back in 1953 and first bottled by Mauro in 1982. Conca, the amphitheatre, truly La Morrese, sandy and calcareous, two hectares split between three producers (along with Ratti and Revello) with Molino’s part being half a hectare. Close to Bricco Luciani, same hill but Conca is in the valley while BL is on top. Richest and most fruit generous but also the biggest or broadest tannic profile of them all, with spiciness, sharp acidity and far reaching potential. A little bit of everything found in the other Cru Barolo are here in Conca. You feel more wood here but also the completeness theory in action. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted March 2024

Quite the powerful entry which indicates higher alcohol but also ripeness by way of both sugar and phenolic concentration. Huge fruit, substantial and laden with pectin, glycerol and texture. Modern Barolo to be sure, a nebbiolo that’s fruit first and just enough structure to see it go for eight to 12 years or so, not likely many more than 15. If it’s well priced it will entice and exist as a great cellar defender to please a great many folks. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Good to go!

Martina Molino

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Nebbiolo Previews 2024: Barolo 2020 DOCG, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018 and Retrospectives

Apr2

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

In Piemonte the association of location and climate creates an effect on vines to make them Italy’s most indeterminate and so the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero are the beneficiaries of these ever oscillating variabilities. Of course there are 12 months, 52 weeks, and 365 days on the annual calendar but the question always begs. What really makes a vintage? Climate, locus, viticultural adaptation, hard work and luck. As for the messaging of 2020 Barolo, its combination of symptoms has recently been recognized, hard nosed and flexible like 2016, though the wines have got a third problem never seen before. They exhibit dexterity, in other words a fluidity of movement. No, that’s not really a problem at all and within the boundaries of a vintage it means the 2020s are arguably the most forward of the current era. Ah, that’s the crux and aye, also the rub. Nebbiolo described as scorrevole, wines of “flow,” characterized by elegance and grace. Not all mind you, but to describe a vintage there needs to be some communicated level of generalization. In summary, 2020 is a very progressive vintage.

Yes, this is something new for nebbiolo as Barolo and so perhaps a new epoch is upon us. Time to move on from the ancient ways, to shed the Homeric, Classical Roman and Old English, get past the Early Tudor, Elizabethan, Caroline, Restoration and Augustan. Eschew the literary, abstain from the Modern, Post-Modern and Meta-Modern, ditch the cynicism, irony and climate change fears. Embrace the present, see the beauty and hope for the future. So what do we call this new era for Barolo? Well, for one thing the 2020 Barolo will follow the classic script. Act one today, act two one hour later, act three 10 years forward. So the wines have that kind of structure going for them – which is nice. But what are they called?

Marina Marcarino, President Albeisa Wines

Blind tasting adds a whole other dimension, but wines do not lie. Don’t we just feel it – when greatness is in the glass? Taste one, or several hundred examples over the course of just a few days – the learning curve is the same. There is certainty in knowing what it is to be a well-structured nebbiolo. The eponymous Barolo village lends its name though there are eleven (and their environs) that can make nebbiolo carrying the name: The others are La Morra, Monforte, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. These villages and their surrounding kingdoms play collective host to the profoundness of a grape married to place – forever bound, unfettered, undeterred and unbreakable. Nebbiolo and in turn Barolo are encapsulated by the soils, hills, winds and genius loci of the Langhe. Barolo owns the title of “Grand Italian Wine” and for good reason. How about a quick synopsis from village to village?

La Morra … Welcome to an open for aromatic business vintage where the Barolo of La Morra are want to be linked across a common thread of pitch and style, high in acid with a hundred different pixels of charm and grace. The red citrus vintage, especially of blood orange, fruit first and with just enough structure to see the wines go for eight to 12 years, or so.

Novello … Modern enough yet still plenty of tradition in pocket for real wines experienced in real time. At their best they are substantial, exemplary and moving. Like 2016, for many a perfect vintage, classic, without challenges, equilibrio.

Serralunga d’Alba … Substance and stature. Tighter, with dry tannins impressively woven into the tactile fabric of the wines. More of a red citrus currant to pomegranate with balsamico savoury-gariga mix than most. Subtle imagination of mineral lined within, musky skin-scented and rich without excess.

Verduno … The most reductive and closed of the 2020s with rich aromatic liqueur. High tonality specific to the village with really fine examples of ability and style.

Barolo … First maturing, most experienced, least phenolic, sound, calm and collected. Aromatically refined, optimum acidity, high austerity of tannin, taut and grippy. Commune of imagination and also fantasy, to come away at the finish firmly entrenched in true blue Barolo cru realities. Quiet yet composed, rich and powerfully restrained.

Castiglione Falletto … Peppery, spicy, seasoned, salt-licked and crispy. Predicated on acidity that can’t be immediately ignored, zesty, bursts of sunshine and savour with the feeling that ripeness is equal between fruit and acidity.

Monforte d’Alba … Split into two. Taut and stoic with aromas waiting patiently in the wings or deep and delicious red fruit aromatic profiles. Ripeness of acidity and tannins, sweetness of parts that pique interest. Bright and engaging, ripeness achieved and concentration quite ample. Major potential lays ahead.

Barolo 2020

The MGAs continue on their path towards omnipotence and in 2020 the percentage of cru-designated samples was higher than ever, with less Più comuni examples than ever before. In La Morra the MGAs include Arborina, Boiolo, Bricco Luciani, Brunate, Capalot, Casa Nere, Castagni, Cerequio, Gattera, Gianchi, La Serra, Marcenasco, Rocche dell’Annunziata, San Giacomo, Serradenari, Silio and Torriglione. Barolo’s are Albarella, Boschetti, Bricco delle Viole, Buon Padre, Cannubi, Castellero, Coste Di Vergne, Fossati, Monrobiolo Di Bussia and Sarmassa. In Castiglione Falletto there are Altenasso, Bricco Boschis, Brunella, Monprivato, Parussi, Pira, Rocche Di Castiglione, Scarrone and Villero. In Serralunga d’Alba the cru include Boscareto, Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia, Briccolina, Broglio, Cerretta, Gabutti, Gianetto, Lazzarito, Marenca, Margheria, Meriame, Ornato, Parafada, Prapò, Sorano and Vignarionda. Monforte d’Alba holds the vineyards of Bricco San Pietro, Bussia, Bussia Dardi Le Rose, Bussia Vigna Fantini, Castelletto, Castelletto Persiera, Castelletto Vigna Pressenda, Ginestra, Vigna Sorì Ginestra, Gramolere, Le Coste Di Monforte, Mosconi, Perno, Pressenda, Rocche Di Castelletto and Treturne. From Novello there are Panerole, Ravera and Sottocastello Di Novello. Verduno holds Monvigliero and San Lorenzo, Roddi is home to Bricco Ambrogio and Raviole is within Grinzane Cavour.

The Sommeliers of AIS Piemonte – Albeisa Headquarters, Alba

Related – Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

Year after year the opportunity to taste so many Barolo and pay visits with producers is made possible by the organization of the Consorzio Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. Langhe Vini are supported and valorized by the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani and these tastings support the mission. Much of the Anteprima’s success is facilitated by A-B Comunicazione team of Anna Barbon, Linda Foltran and Cinzia Luxardo. This twenty eighth year of Nebbiolo Prima once again acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. For the first time the tastings were held at the new offices and tasting rooms of the freshly minted event space in Alba. It was simply brilliant, comfortable, perfectly orchestrated and with the finest professional work executed by the AIS Piemonte sommeliers. There is no such thing as a successful anteprima without the sommeliers. They are professionalism and humanity incarnate, their ability to anticipate, react and service a wide range of tasters’ needs is uncanny. This group is tops, a power trio that combines knowledge, agility, and speed. I consider them as great friends and always filled with joy when I see them again.

Godello with Marina Marcarino

Keep in mind that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons, including wines not yet ready to show. There are many cask samples involved and a strong argument can be made to eliminate campione for this tasting, as you will note in more than a dozen reviews below. This relevance of this report lies in the idea that it is but a snapshot, albeit of two hundred-plus wines strong provided by producers who submitted their wines. It also includes some wines tasted on site at winery visits, in particular at Bruna Grimaldi and Elvio Cogno. Then there are a couple of dozen important estates that did not participate in Nebbiolo Prima, including Elio Altare, Azelia, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Corino, Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Massolino, Alfredo Prunotto, Rivetto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino, Mauro Veglio and Roberto Voerzio. The following are Godello’s Barolo notes from Nebbiolo Prima. There are 225 reviews in total; 190 Barolo DOCG 2020, 13 Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018, 18 Barolo DOCG 2010 and four Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008.

If you would like to view the top scoring wines from this report please click here.

Martina, Franco and Bruna – Bruna Grimaldi

Barolo DOCG 2020

Grinzane Cavour

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Camilla 2020, Più Comuni

From five vineyards, Bozzone and Raviole (Grinzane Cavour), Roero Santa Maria and five percent each from the two single vineyards Bricco Ambrogio and Badarina. The vintage of thinner skins, high juice to pulp and skin ratios and a 2020 that you can honestly pour a glass of today because it’s just a nebbiolo of pure joy. Non aggressive tannin, sweet acidity and silky smooth texture. A truly refined Barolo and just so drinkable. Approximately 22,000 bottles produced, bottled in December 2022. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2024

Diano d’Alba

Bricco Maiolica Barolo DOCG Contadin 2020, Diano d’Alba

Just the one sample from the commune of Diano d’Alba and a light affair from what will surely lead off for a charming set of 2020 Barolo. A gentle rusticity and well-seasoned fruit, salt and pepper on currants and pomegranate with a vague dusting of wood spice. Juicy and high acid with a cherry stone meets almond skin finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

La Morra Barolo

La Morra

Cascina del Monastero di Grasso Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Annunziata 2020, La Morra

La Morra commune, orange and red citrus, acids running high and amok, vintage typicality and as it will be seen the question is all about levels of charm, grace and balance. Some austerity but the fruit source meets quality are truly high, merging with structure and merging onto a road that leads towards excellence. The potential here is great because the tannins are sweet, long-chained and should eventually calm into that wished for state of grace. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bovio Gianfranco di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Arborina 2020, La Morra

A high tonal start for nebbiolo from La Morra, a balsamic not so farfetched for the vintage that is determined by the type, pace and pitch off this Barolo’s acidity. Fruit feels darkening, a black cherry type of idea, not incongruent but taking some time to get used to when you consider the acidity’s style. Will take a few years to come together. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alberto Ballarin Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Welcome to a vintage where the Barolo of La Morra are want to be linked across a common thread of pitch and style, high in acid with a hundred different pixels of charm and grace. From the rustic to the suave and this falls just right of centre with its higher tone and gentle rusticity. Like many other from the commune the acidity is of a red citrus sensation that lifts and extends the fruit for extra linger time. Not particularly tannic here so think of the near to mid term in thinking about how long to age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Malvirà dei F.lli Damonte Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Some maturity in this La Morra’s fruit, well ripened and developed, nearly ready to go with a reduced balsamico that’s showing along with some vaguely peppery reduction. Tart and as mentioned the fruit evolution involved creates just a slight impression of advancement. Drink in the immediate years to come. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

La Morra Cru

Camparo Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Cask Sample: More than youthful and in fact reductive which makes this sample feel like it has been pulled from tank or concrete rather than cask. Quite closed and immovable, yet with wholly impressive fruit substance. A sample with great potential because the tannic grains are finely chalky and the acidity running high though also expressive of great learned maturity. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Carlo Revello e Figli Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2020, La Morra

Lovely and charming Barolo with early accessibility and open arms, of grace and the gentlest swarthiness fully attractive and inviting. Not a salsiccia but a swirl of fruit and mineral, of modernity though because it’s so fresh and clean you also intuit the heritage in this La Morra producer’s ways. Such a pretty Barolo with seamlessness between parts, transitions smooth as silk and plenitude from start to finish. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mario di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Brunate 2020, La Morra

A kind of reduction that’s as problematic or at least confounding as this Barolo is chock full of wealth. Tight and extremely tannic, clearly rustic but also just slightly dirty. A vinyl curtain feeling because acetic notes are strong and acidity is in total control. Time will be an ally to smooth and soften. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Burzi Alberto DOCG Capalot Vecchie Viti 2020, La Morra

A lighter and while not fully, also a brighter nebbiolo from La Morra. Far cry from a cru expression but rather something Villages in gather of concentration that suggests old vines. Tart and a palate intensity that defines the more important section of this wine. Full flavoured if not bodied and so solid, if not exceptional in hyperbole. Very correct and ready without obtrusive tannin. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot 2020, La Morra

Tart and liquid chalky, a Barolo of grip and near formidable tannin though the fruit is indeed strong enough to defend itself. Big boned and yet not what should be thought on as charming or stylish. An antediluvian style though an effective one and the sort of nebbiolo to put away for a rainy day. This won’t be anyone’s modern favourite but it will live for 20 years. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto E. C. Barolo DOCG Casa Nere 2020, La Morra

High cherry fruit kind of immediacy, bursting up and out, the rest of the nebbiolo concepts waiting in the wings. Some flecking to black and then the crunch of the stone within. The mineral swath released and streaking through, the acids and tannins also rushing in and taking control. Then a sip. Botanicals, dry Amaro, tonic and bitters. A bit pressed and green. Length unexceptional. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Michele Chiarlo Barolo DOCG Cerequio 2020, La Morra

Blood orange of a red citrus La Morra 2020 feels that dominate the first impression of Barolo. High tones, some acetic behaviour though in check and far from unusual. Good fruit quality and substance with salt and pepper seasoning and the faintest hint of Brettanomyces. Nothing distracting and the kind of level that will be extremely appealing to older-school lovers of a specific nebbiolo style. Classic producer in every way, structure that follows suit and because the flaws are kept to the vaguest of impressions it creates this symmetry between vagaries and graces. Not the most social Barolo but it can exist with confidence in the halls of crowds. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Conca 2020, La Morra

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG Barolo del Comune di La Morra 2020, La Morra

A bit if a brooder, not low and baritone but still there is a slow rumble to the fruit and acid mix. A relationship between parts on the same page in a calm and tranquil setting without any major distractions or disturbances. Quite tannic however so this shows some impressive structure and the finish actually rises up from that early settled feeling. It says that this nebbiolo is caught on a rising trajectory and should continue this way for server years before coming back down. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Martina, Franco and Bruna – Bruna Grimaldi

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Fossati 2020, La Morra

A bit closed, yet to open for aromatic business but like so many 2020s, especially from La Morra, the subtleties and grace should see this come about sooner rather than later. Some bitters here that do indicate some green in the tannin, nothing egregious but duly noted. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Carlo Revello e Figli Barolo DOCG Giachini 2020, La Morra

A most proper and definitive middle of the nebbiolo road taken for La Morra Barolo. Fresh, crisp and crunchy red fruit and that proverbial mouth full of Langhe rocks. Dusty and tannic, sweet acids a great foil to the aridity of the wine and savour in ideal pitch to square off angles and be sure to see the roundness come about after five-plus years. This is the right stuff. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG La Serra 2020, La Morra

No other La Morra in flights totalling 25 nebbioli emit this kind of exotic scent and spicing, none at all and the singularity is more than noted. Chalky and dusty example here as well, parts wild and in flight, structure ready and willing to ground the wine when it’s done moving here, there, and everywhere. There is so much going it’s hard to track and follow but time will solve the equations. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG La Serra 2020, La Morra

Simpler and less structured nebbiolo here from La Morra, ripe and charming, red citrus and a mild chalkiness but acidity is far more important than the tannins. Tang over tart, fruit over all else and lovely to sip. Early term Barolo without argument. Style points for purity and honesty. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichmej 2020, La Morra

Bigger Barolo here from La Morra while the fruit is ideally red and juicy, meeting vintage expectation and keeping up the Joneses of alcohol and structure. Neither formidable nor intense but yes there is power and grip. A graceful and gliding bird of prey using acid and tannin to grip and carry the fruit. This nebbiolo is in total control, an alpha varietal expression that will live long and prosper, not to mention enjoying a well-fed life. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Barolo del Comune di La Morra 2020, La Morra

First sample TCA. Second sound. Liquid chalky and righteously structured nebbiolo, classically and charmingly La Morra, nothing overtly powerful or lithe but somewhere so comfortably in between. Richness yet elastic and poised to work its fruit, acid and tannin consecutively, with length and for good aging potential. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2020, La Morra

A nebbiolo rising, set on a high tonal trajectory, tart and intense. High acidity, balsamic all the way through, a modicum of structure otherwise. Can’t really see much long term potential. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negretti Barolo DOCG Rive 2020, La Morra

Grounded nebbiolo of great fruit swell and swath of Rothko colour but also aromatic texture. Power and grip but of a restrained and in control variety that speaks in knowable varietal terms. Very Barolo, highly worthy of cru and commune, a La Morra reality elevated and celebrated. So ideally calibrated and of a natural sweetness in perfect alignment with structure. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Light and airy, like fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. Easy and simple nebbiolo, fruit ripe and pure enough to be considered as Barolo though not a matter of great stuffing overall. Grows in stature with flesh over time yet never really gains grip or power. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Thin and chalky, a tannic nebbiolo without much grace or charm. Atypically or rather rustically La Morra. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rocche Costamagna Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020, La Morra

Cask Sample: Closed and immovable sample, stuffing clearly hidden away but the wine is just not showing much at this time. No doubt there is a whale of fruit lurking beneath the surface but for now its just about time and seeing this Barolo spend plenty of it in bottle. Some volatility noted at the finish and also power. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

460 Casina Bric Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Here La Morra takes off into the stratosphere and volatility runs high to say this may never come back down to earth. Clan enough outside of the VA with some fine and substantial fruit but my this is out there and so as a result kind of one dimensional for nebbiolo, La Morra and Barolo. Remains to be seen if an adjustment will happen. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ratti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Light and airy, rising towards the ethereal in a La Morra that from go is expressive of grace and charm. More than substantial fruit that not only keeps up with the flight but also shows no reaction to gravity or pressure. Ripe and luxe while never gratuitous or dense. Certainly never jammy. A fine and weightless example of Barolo with sneaky tannins and great stage presence. Top example that will unwind over 15-20 years time. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2020, La Morra

Reductive, a bit harsh and peppery for the time being but no real concern because this is the way of some young Barolo. Crispy and crunchy with plenty of substance to carry this forward if just a bit pressed and therefore some verdancy showing through in the concentration. That cherry stone bitterness as a result and while this is substantial it will always exhibit these flavours. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rizieri Barolo DOCG Silio 2020, La Morra

A true balsamic iteration of nebbiolo that veers just a bit to the acetic right. Aromatically tart, tightly wound and a bit too intense. Searing actually and drying severely at the finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Torriglione 2020, La Morra

Rosy and ruby nebbiolo, aromatically all about fresh roses and tart red fruits in the currant to pomegranate vein. Some swarthy notes detected upon the palate, a chalkiness and a thickening of texture. Fine enough and quite correct if just a bit out of balance. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Novello

Le Strette Barolo DOCG Bergera Pezzole 2020, Novello

Cask Sample: Just beginning to open with sweet perfumes in the aromas though surely far way from being “there.” Very suave and chic nebbiolo, laden with glycerol, silken and cool. Not savoury mind you because the fruit not yet blooming is of a full and substantial ilk. A volatility also lurks though more cask and then bottle time should heal this very small wound. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sarotto Roberto Barolo DOCG Audace 2020, Novello

Acetic, buggy, shower curtain – not clean. Good fruit however but the acids are off-putting and not on the same page. Nor are the drying tannins which finish brittle and hard. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Abbona di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Cerviano-Merli 2020, Novello

Really dirty here from Novello. It’s reduction but also wood that is very problematic. There is just no way to see this wine cleaning itself up. Ethyl acetone as well. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Le Strette Barolo DOCG Corini-Pallaretta 2020, Novello

Cask Sample: High toned and casted cask sample with the brightness of Novello captured if still too tight to be released. Chalky and truly tannic, two parts tethered together that will continue on a copacetic trajectory and eventually emerge as one. Great potential here. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sarotto Barolo DOCG Briccobergera 2020, Novello

Lovely swirl of Novello nebbiolo with a meandering of fruit into circles of acidity and waves that incorporate sweet tannins through the concentrically drawn lines of this Barolo. All is fine aromatically yet the wood is overarching with as noted in the strong vanilla scent and then texture that reminds of less expensive varietal Italian wines from the Meridione south. In the end it feels artificial and forced. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo DOCG Panerole 2020, Novello

Reductive, though subtle in this regard and so the winemaking plan seeks protection, with freshness captured and kept for a Barolo that will seek longevity. Potential is the ideal and fruit like this will help realize the goal. Plenty of wood detected yet used with purpose and the vague Bretty note is anything but a problematic distraction. Finely chiseled and crafted Novello in any case and yes this will live long and well. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cannubi

Abrigo F.lli Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Power and an alcohol feel here from Novello, a grippy nebbiolo in true blue, ready to wear Barolo apparel for a lifetime of comfort. Rich and swirling, of substantial fruit and tannins equal yet acidity is more like a low machine rumble below, though it does not generate the power as much as the other parts of the wine. Still this modern example will be pleasing for those who seek and demand full-bodied (though not exclusively) Italian wines. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Abrigo Giovanni di Abrigo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Sweet nebbiolo is so many respects, not of sugar of course but yes in all three of its constituent parts; fruit, acid and tannin. Ducks in a row, lined up consecutively, each one turning to the next and passing it on. A modern and forward thinking Barolo, attractive and inviting, well structured and always shining bright. Really quite fine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fratteli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

A push-pull, posit tug type of nebbiolo, at times bright and at others laying low, fruit full and acids richly developed. Modern enough yet still plenty of tradition in pocket for a real wine experienced in real time. Exemplary for Novello and 2020, classy Barolo and true too form. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Novello MGAs

Cagliero Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Tart mix of red citrus and wood spices for a nebbiolo that feels like a varietal masala liquified as Barolo minestra. Vegetal and spiced, tang and chalk, textural and emulsified to say the fruit and wood are just about on the same page. Give this Novello another two years and all should have properly come together. Will round out into a really nice wine without sharp angles or edginess, in the end. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Nothing overt but there is an edginess and a swarthy bit of behaviour in this 2020 from Novello. A nebbiolo of major fruit and also acids – but do not sleep on the crunchy tannins. This is true Barolo of volatile behaviour, ancient and incarnate with cask in full control for old school behaviour and style. Needs several years to integrate, settle and find the other side. Patience required, with prejudice and should you be in a hurry there will be some disappointment. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vietti Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

Plenty of stuffing from this qualitatively brilliant Novello Barolo, substantial, exemplary and moving. Grooving as well, a buzz of acidity in surround of fruit and true significance structural speaking. Cru capture of great distinction from within Novello, lots of wood yes but good and clean barrel accents and effects. Really well-seasoned and the potential here is truly great. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Piazzo comm. Armando di Piazzo Marina Barolo DOCG Sottocastello di Novello 2020, Novello

High tones acceding the acetic so beware of the power and potentially problematic actions of this Barolo. It’s silken and the fruit is of high quality but insights into its behaviour look at acids edgy and out of a certain level of control. The palate shows more stability but the finish is drying and clearly abrupt. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Cascina Nuova 2020, Novello

“Like 2016,” insists Walter Fissore, “2020 was a perfect vintage.” Classic, without challenges, equilibrio. A dusty quality and a broad brushstroke of Novello nebbiolo, the youngest and most impressionable fruit, easier by Cogno standards so that it can be consumed earlier and defend the Ravera Baroli from having their youth stolen from them. Here a Barolo that rolls from sweet natural fruit through Amaro and into brushy savour before returning right back to the beginning. The Ravera are linear while Cascina Nuova turns continuously on an axis and walks the circumference of a circle. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted January 2024

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera 2020, Novello

One of three Cogno expressions from the Ravera MGA in Novello, here the most broad while the other two are single vineyard expressions. All things being relative and equal the term broad means less both for these estate wines and also as compared to the Cascina Nuova label. Great richness meets both salinity, followed by sapidity through Ravera, yes it’s true, first one and then the other. They layer for what feels like a slow release of emotion and so Ravera comes at the palate in wave after wave. The warmer the vintage the more whole bunch function and so in 2020 the number was approximately 50 percent. Think about that. For MGA Barolo. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadi and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva DOCG Ravera Vigna Elena 2018, Novello

For some producers this would already be a retrospective look back at a special single vineyard Barolo but for Elvio Cogno it’s as young a nebbiolo as there is and may as well not yet be released. Only in bottle one year, a true Riserva for Barolo in a world where there just aren’t many left. Elena is made with clones that need more time to resolve their nebbiolo tannins because the body of the fruit they accompany is not as big and fleshy as other clonal examples. Lumpia and Rose, needing coddling and oxygenation, repeated in a wine like Elena that must be aired and agitated to get into a charming state of grace. It will provided you pay attention and exercise patience. Not a big wine but a stubborn one. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted January 2024

Blind tasting, Nebbiolo Prima 2024 – Albeisa Headquarters

Più comuni

Francone di Francone Fabrizio e C. Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

Some dirty barrel noted off the top, coming across with reduction and varnish. A bit too problematic to see the nebbiolo roses and bright rises of this multi-commune Barolo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gheddo di Pippia Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG ‘Angela’ 2020, Più comuni

A nebbiolo of more than one commune and so what resides as multi-village level should find its balance in the variegation of fruit, terroirs and multi-climatic layering. As far as things go this 2020 Barolo does this variegation quite well with nothing out of sorts or line and with fruit quality as fine and proper as one could want from the vintage. Chew, ropiness and tang, like liquorice and sweet acids, quite balsamic but never too tart. Good medium bodied ay this level of an example. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG ‘Pio’ 2020, Più comuni

Not the lightest iteration of a Più comuni Barolo but nor is this one of grip and power. A hit of reduction and so well protected, of moderate structure to see a nebbiolo that should also carry forward while always developing and protracted. Really solid effort here, well made and drying in a most proper Barolo way. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Treturne 2020, Più comuni

This is one of several Più comuni Barolo with yet another reason to see 2020 as a charming nebbiolo vintage working strong for the people because these “general” iterations are almost all well designed. Fortified and balanced. Its an impressive group of wines and tells us that the vintage is a great buy with very few blips or slips. In fact this ’20 is a cut above the rest with natural sweetness, substance and length. Barolo reality captured. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Viberti Giovanni Barolo DOCG Buon Padre 2020, Più comuni

One of the more reductive Baroli as a product and factor of Più comuni yet still within reason and one to see as a protected nebbiolo to age in the mid term. The bones are strong and the flesh hanging well, if taut and close to the skeletal structure of the wine. Well made and actually quite modern for the idiom. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barolo DOCG 2020, Più comuni

A far as Più comuni Barolo is concerned this exists on the less forthright and fresh side of the spectrum, though still as a nebbiolo that speaks in correct varietal terms. It’s a light one but not exactly bright or pretty in any real shape or form. Tart and full of tang, low-level structure and best serviced for the short term. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Paesi Tuoi 2020, Più comuni

Ever so noticeably reductive, a bit brooding and quite glycerin textured for Più comuni nebbiolo as Barolo. Laden with pectin, jammy on the nose, tannic and austere to finish. Some disparate parts here, a bit out of sorts though time will help. Feels just a bit professional and larger production in style for normale Barolo. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Martina Fiorino – Bruna Grimaldi

Roddi

Grimaldi Bruna Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2020, Roddi

From the MGA split amongst a half dozen producers, the largest of which is farmed by Paolo Scavino. Bruna Grimaldi owns two plots, one planted on a north-south axis that is blended into the Classico. The other is always made as a single vineyard wine, a sunny place with top exposition and the delivery here of a horizontal expression, juicy and forthright. First vintage with fermentation in open top fermenters that helps to broaden and round out the tannins and earlier whereas stainless steel kept them much tighter. More forward three years to now (though the wood aromas are still quite strong) to find a Barolo of breadth and depth but also one you could very much consider to open and enjoy. Charming, a naturally sweet expression, so generous and arguably one of the cleanest nebbiolo around. Drink 2025-2032. Last tasted January 2024

On the Roddi again for 2020 Barolo in the reductive style with an example showing that true crunchy red shell encasing same ilk fruit equipped with plenty of tang. A piquancy here that’s held tight within itself so that time can be the factor for a fleshing out and away. A bit too much wood this early (to no shock) because the silkiness of texture is chock full of vanilla, lavender and liquid spice. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Lodali Walter Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio Lorens 2020, Roddi

Fine Roddi example of Barolo noted straight off the top, reserved and restrained but expressive behind the veil. Pull that organza curtain aside to reveal high quality fruit sweetness and acids to match. A march of complimentary parts into tannic walls yet malleable, intricately woven and true willing participants. A suave nebbiolo of class and if just a bit too much barrel that is also something that will eventually melt in and eventuate into truffled secondary style. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negretti Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2020, Roddi

Truly rich elixir of Roddi nebbiolo with that jammy pectin aromatic feel followed by no schism to casually replay upon the palate. Lots of wood here in a modern stylish and truly tannic Barolo. This will be enjoyed by many fans of this very effective style. Cordero comes to mind. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga

Serralunga d’Alba

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Badarina 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Many will recognize Badarina as the cru where Bersano owns the largest part because Martina Grimaldi’s grandparents sold much of it to Arturo Bersano back in the 1960s. A stiffer and more vertical Barolo, certainly as compared to Bricco Ambrogio but still these 2020s from Bruna Grimaldi are all generous gifts of nebbiolo. There is just something in the way they move and so neither reduction nor austerity are part of their make-up. Freshness and a crunchy fruit base are mixed with expertly managed acidity, tannin and wood to put this in harmony, for now and 10-plus years at the very minimum. Drink 2025-2036. Last tasted January 2024

First of the Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo and one to speak in raw dough meets pulpy red fruit ways. This bottle tasted blind is not the most perfect with a level of reduction that will dissipate and improve but there is some other distracting material involved. Suppresses the tannins and quickens the finish. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Badarina Vigna Regnola 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Just over 1,000 bottles are produced of this single block Barolo located within the larger MGA of Badarina, an amphitheatre facing full south right in the heart within the larger southeast by southwest vineyard. The section of the vineyard that has always been planted to nebbiolo, going back to Martina Fiorino’s grandmother’s time in the 1960s, even when ripeness would have been suspect in some vintages. Now only made in the best vintages, previously as Riserva in 2016, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009. The change of labelling laws means no longer using Riserva, switching to Albeisa bottles with this 2020 and dio mio man is this a completely singular expression, especially the combination of closed aromatics, juicy acidity that attacks the side of the palate and an intensity all of its own accord. The finish is firm, tense and nervous. Very special Barolo. Tasted January 2024

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Baudana 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Taut and not yet gregariously aromatic but sometimes you just feel the Serralunga d’Alba potential ahead of the early stages and behind the veil. The fruit is surely substantial and ripe without gratuity, neither in glycerin nor by simple syrup acidity. Fulsome Barolo in so many respects with really fine-grains of tannins keeping things linear, moving and real. The future will help to define this nebbiolo’s set of strengths. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024.

Brovia Barolo DOCG Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Simple and highly effective nebbiolo here from Serralunga d’Alba, tart though not too intense, direct yet far from vivid. Good quality fruit under the cover of ever so slight reduction and a liquid white pepperiness that adds a buzz of energy to the structural mix. The wood is a bit on top but not far from dropping down below. Good wine, very correct and quite satisfying. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Intensity of many parts, none of them fully out in the open or yet known. A cask sample of strength and yet some maturity in evolution is sensed. Or experience rather, of powerful restraint, quality fruit ripeness and development, then finally structure. The acids are great and the tannins thick as thieves while the wood still whips the entirety of the entity into shape. This could have been a train wreck but it instead is on the way to excellence. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Cerrati, Serralunga d’Alba

High fructose, pectin and glycerol example of nebbiolo for Barolo that once again shows how warm and developed Serralunga d’Alba fruit can be. You will not find these levels from Roddi, Novello or La Morra, that much is clear. This is luxe and substantial, with acids and tannins equal, opposing and ready for the game. Lights, camera, action, in a few years. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: A sample yet a mature one – this is quite advanced for a Barolo not yet committed to bottle. Happens sometimes when samples are pulled. They can oxidize and not show the true value and potential of what will be the final blended wine. This is such a moment. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

G.D. Vajra di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine showing from the start for this nebbiolo out of Serralunga d’Alba with ripeness and really expressive fruit. Just that right mix of tart, tang and natural sweetness for acids to get with, support and extend. It’s all here, available and on display for Barolo of substance and stature. The tannins dry but they are impressively woven into the tactile fabric of this wine. You can really sink your teeth into this one and should be able to continue doing so for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bugia Nen di Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A reduction and while a stronger one than some it’s nothing that can’t be seen as soon to blow away. Some savour here, somewhat unusual for the vintage because 2020, especially from Serralunga d’Alba makes for anything but verdant, brushy and dried herbal Barolo. And then the animale comes – Brettnomyces that’s more than horse hair but reminding of the barn’s floor. This is problematic. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Garesio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine aromatic presence here from Serralunga d’Alba, an energy of fruit and acidity together with more of a red citrus currant-pomegranate-balsamic mix than most. More like La Morra in this sense but nebbiolo are snowflakes, anything can happen and open-mindedness is key. The palate is chewy and equally vibrant, the tannins sweet and tightly assembled, the chains intact and the tact of this wine lies in its balanced attack. Hyper real, focused and generous to a degree of restraint. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Schiavenza di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Reductive and an aromatic mix of tomato plant, fruit, iodine, plasma and band-aid. Another savoury Serralunga d’Alba though there are not many of them and this is the sort that imagines rosemary, fennel and tarragon. Complex and very woody, a bit stemmy and yet time will heal, bind and bring together all parts. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alessandro Rivetto Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yet another cask sample that’s surely oxidized. One has to question why producers send these in. Nothing to go on as to the what, where and why of the wine. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Negro Angelo & Figli di Giovanni Negro Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Fine and restrained nebbiolo, good quality Serralunga d’Alba fruit, acids equal to the task, supportive and lively. Neither wood nor tannin are overt but there is spice and grip if more so piquancy to this Barolo. Mid-term ager, best in a year and for four to six more. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Serralunga Cru

Enrico Serafino Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Lovely nebbiolo for Serralunga d’Alba, a swirl of ripe red fruit and the subtle imagination of mineral lined within. A potency but not a powerful push of anything in particular and a Barolo of admirable restraint. Liquid chalky, far from dusty, hinting at but never really lashing out as herbal balsamic, a challenge for the palate but a good one, physical and healthy. Balanced and well paced, long and true. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Schiavenza di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Taut surely and vaguely reductive while fruit is of high quality and comes across purposed, trenchant and fine. Some of that swarthy nebbiolo volatility, more from the wood than anything else and just a bit distracting. Still there is some charm and the wine will find its moments to shine. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

True blood orange example of Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo, more like La Morra in that sense but the depth of fruit and texture are all of this commune. Well paced and structured Barolo to be sure, one, two, three, tick, tick, tick, rhythmic and metronomic. A chewy quality, chocolate from the wood, a fine swirl and variegation, modernity and chic style. The legions will line up for bottles of this fine Barolo that represents the finest non-cru value for Serralunga. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Tight Barolo here from Serralunga d’Alba, a bit wood inflected this early and some austerity makes this feel older-schooled in style. The palate confirms this idea and no doubt there is traditional conformity in the heart and mind of this nebbiolo’s maker. Needs time and will become the classic it was meant to be. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Quite reductive with wood very much in change for an austere and challenging example of Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo. Old school Barolo for sure, of spice, more pepper than salt in its seasoning and finally that savoury tomato plant notation that seems a hallmark of traditional Serralunga Barolo. A fruit sweetness comes out at the finish to speak of promise and a finer future that lays ahead. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boasso Franco Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Now here is a fine example of Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, classic in its suave red fruit, musky skin-scented and rich without excess. All the ancient and rustic secrets are part of this Nebbiolo’s DNA and style – the gentle swarthiness, the animale, charcuterie cure, fruit skins and dusty structural hints. The shadows and seduction, sneaky tannins and sweetness of fruit. This is in fact the real deal with the kind of maturity that speaks to experience but not evolution. A wine that has already achieved a level of understanding but will live for decades of time. Drink 2027-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Sordo Giovanni di Sordo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Light and refreshing nebbiolo, taut and yet rising, airy and just about ready for its time. The window is open, the wine is quaint and the structure simple. Nothing to wait on here. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Garesio Barolo DOCG Gianetto 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Red to darkening fruit, ripe and well developed, a different sort for Serralunga d’Alba but openly expressive and musky skin-scented. Quite tart and piquant, high acid, balsamic reduction and savour. Very complex, highly regarded and ready for action. A buzz of a Barolo, predicated on acids more than tannin and a terrific Tajarin pairing for the short term. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Light, open, fragrant and ethereal. There will be brightness at all times, the skies will always be blue and at no time should this be looked upon as a heavily structured wine. No this is scintillant nebbiolo as Barolo, perfumed, not without wood, but delicate and fine. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boasso Franco Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Quite a woody and fortified example, boozy, grippy and swarthy. Challenging now but will settle in given a few years of time. For now put these away and wait. Good substantial fruit and high acid, balsamic, savour and tannins very much in charge. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Pretty nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba, what could be called “carissima,” gentle and nurturing for the palate. A Barolo for what ails, a soothing and satisfying sip without undue stress or unneeded tension. Purity, red fruit incarnate and fine acidity. No grip or density, not particularly structured but really fine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: A proper cask sample, tight, closed and yet obviously refined. Silken and smooth but far from open, clearly still reductive and truly taut. No real density and understood as an example of Serralunga d’Alba. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024.

Vietti Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A chalky crayon or waxy opening, taut and tight, very specific to the commune of Serralunga d’Alba while here even more focused and implosive. A cru iteration no doubt of a place within the greater village and something needing years to unwind. No density and the balance is noted as a make-up of parts equal in stature. Certainly a crunchy wine with some savour but a fine salty meets natural sweetness cohabitation is what fuels this ideal. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pira Luigi di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Marenca 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yes this acts tight and closed but its also teases with weight and a level of local savoir-faire intensity. Rich nebbiolo, liquid chalky, musky fruit skins and a fine red fruit liqueur. Some potential though acids are on the lower end of the pole. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pira Luigi di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Margheria 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Tighter than some though not a completely closed example from the barrel. Rich and concentrated, good tannic presence and fine acids too. A wine of good and proper potential. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG Meriame 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A purity of fruit and so very Serralunga d’Alba with the scrape of skins as much tart stone fruit as red citrus. Wood very much an early factor used well and set up to elevate fruit, not smother it. What would be quantified as medium acidity, nothing shocking and a good Barolo though not exactly structured for decades of growth. Good in the mid term. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

More fruit, full and substantial qualities here in Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo for the vintage while charming and ready for growth. The acids are very much in line, the wood well managed and tannins of a fineness, if softer than some, certainly miles from austere. Everything on the same page and perhaps there is a sneaky aspect to the structure that will see to longer aging than perviously considered. Length is very good. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Reductive in liquid peppery but also a slightly rubbery way with warming alcohol noted on the liquor of perfume. This is a Serralunga d’Alba more about weight and silken texture than structure, in other words something to drink in the short term. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Parafada 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A mix of sweet fruit cup and Amaro liqueur in a Serralunga d’Alba Barolo as silky as it is openly generous. A nebbiolo of great perfume and ease, moderately structured and acids much like the fruit, also easy to assimilate. Suave and drinkable so early in its tenure. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bugia Nen di Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Prapò 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Not openly fragrant though the subtlety here is imagined as lovely, easy and clam. Lithely tart and relatively simple, especially as Barolo but as for Serralunga d’Alba it’s not exactly out of synch wth the friends whom erst you know of 2020. Basic and serviceable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Prapò 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Aromatically speaking a truly substantial Barolo for Serralunga d’Alba, classic in every way, from the depth of red fruit through to the silky tannins that speak of their grip. A chewy nebbiolo and one of restrained yet sneaky power that just has to live longer than many of its ilk because it is relentless in a pursuit through finesse while looking for glory. Great vintage and result beyond the shadow of a doubt. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide Barolo DOCG Serra 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Cask Sample: Yet another oxidative sample. Happens too often. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Sorano 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

A Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba defined by Ribena and an acetic edginess that distracts from both fruit and structure. These issues are problematic. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG Vignarionda 2020, Serralunga d’Alba

Strong mocker this Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, full, substantial and showing its alcohol in a vintage where the numbers are sometimes high and sometimes low. Warm location and ripeness is high while tannins rumble along. A potent Barolo that finds its balance between equanimous parts and one that also integrates quite a bit of wood without issue. Should live quite long. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Plin – La Piola Alba

Verduno

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG del Comune di Verduno 2020, Verduno

High toned, tart, tight and almost but not quite bracing nebbiolo. Lots of substance and sweet to sour acids keep the energy and the flow while tannins are in that medium range for few stops and plenty of go. Nothing crazy complex but well made and nearly ready. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bosio Family Estates Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2020, Verduno

Notably reductive style, a redacted fruit way for Serralunga d’Alba nebbiolo, backwards and not quite ready to go on sale. Good substance behind the years, really cool, salt-licked acidity beneath the veil and tannins not far behind. Rich nebbiolo, truly Barolo, some fine bitters and overall an impressive package that speaks in clear vintage vernacular terms. Long life coming up. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2020, Verduno

Now to Verduno with a closed nebbiolo of perfumes uncorked. Lots of fruit and wood spices, a spicy capsicum accent and overall a great complexity that piques both palate and overall interest. Barolo of potential, no density but good weight, measures and balance. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Castello di Verduno Barolo DOCG 2020, Verduno

Rich aromatic liqueur out of this nebbiolo from Verduno, plummy and citrusy red fruit mixed wisely and evenly together. Quite tart and lots of tang, the citrus in full swing and finally with pith and skin scrape all over the finish. Red citrus incarnate, even a some pink grapefruit at that end. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Riva Rocca 2020, Verduno

Richness of fruit with plenty of citrus scrape but also some acetic moments, not to mention wood all over the aromatics. Vanilla at the top, lavender in the middle and spice masala down below. The barrel has been leaned on heavily and while the fruit is pure it is not quite concentrated enough to fill the middle. So that’s where the wood really comes in, to consecrate the action and in the end the wine dries out as a consequence in result. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo di Verduno 2020, Verduno

First sample TCA. Second pour musky red fruit Verduno, a nebbiolo of really suave texture, stylish and well heeded. Acidity is sweet and so very complimentary, texture continues along a fine and metered path, scale is fit to tie the whole package beautifully together. Unfortunately the second bottle is also just slightly corked. Can see past it but need to re-taste. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Pelassa Daniele Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo di Verduno 2020, Verduno

High tonality specific to Verduno and here a really good example of that commune’s ability and style. A rich liquor of red citrus fruit and buzzing acidity mixed with the scapes of skins and tart textural spurts. As with many 2020s there is no real presence of harsh tannin nor any density in these nebbioli. Charming and a great Barolo for local cuisine. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Comune del Barolo

Barolo

Borgogno Serio, Boffa Federica e Bolla Emanuela Barolo DOCG Albarella 2020, Barolo

First maturing, phenolic, sound and collected nebbiolo from Barolo commune. Darker of fruit, perhaps the harbinger for the Barolo to come from Barolo environs. Feels like a true Villages example, not site specific but a collection of pure samples from across the land. Proper if already fit immediate for consumption. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gomba Barolo DOCG Boschetti Sernie 2020, Barolo

A Barolo from Barolo with wisdom already gained and secure in pocket. Darker fruit, well developed and advanced phenolic presence, yet higher acidity and finishing at dustiness, plus balsamic. The acids needs to relinquish a part of their sharp piquancy to see this drinking at peak. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

460 Casina Bric Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Bigger bones for Barolo, at least relative to others of the vintage and yet once again we see a vintage stretched by late wet weather in and around harvest time. And yet there is great energy but also drive from this nebbiolo, with fine but also sweet acidity, drying plus fortifying tannin and an overall agitation that should and is wanted to be expected from correct Barolo. You will find that here. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

G.D. Vajra di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Less dark inflections to the red fruit profile, higher tonality that edges to certain precipices though aromatically refined enough to hover at or just below the peaks. A Barolo of great acidity, no relinquish or release and fruit locked in tight like savoury candy within a hard shell. Needs some time to crack as well as tannins that are running quite austere. Grippy, compact and trenchant nebbiolo at the peak of these promises. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Marengo Mario di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Acetone off the top, tough nebbiolo nut to crack, deep red fruit, some resins by musk and wood, dusty, laden with balsamico. Old school, austere and vivid to intense. Hyper real. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Renato Buganza Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Good version of a cask sample, far less oxidative than many and so one actually worthy of assessing to get a glimpse of the future. Some of the finer fruit captured and locked tightly within, a burst of blood orange, some phenolic grip and real-time tannin speaking to longevity. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Serio, Boffa Federica e Bolla Emanuela Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Not all samples drawn from cask or tank are created equal, some are oxidative (or oxidized) and others, like here, are missing their settled balance with high acetone qualities. Still you can intuit fine bones and soon to emerge flesh that will have this drink in better steading. Time is the ally for this sample. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cannubi

E.Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

By now it is well understood that the tannins in nebbiolo from the village and commune of Barolo are grippier and more austere than the others and the affinity with the previous vintage is also closer than from anywhere else. Here grips an example of quality fruit held oh so tight by those structural fortifications, unrelenting, in vice hold and far from letting go. Here is a serious wine, the kind that will impress and instigate great discussion but at least five years will need to pass before these events can occur. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Big boned Barolo contrasted against high-toned nebbiolo for a disparate mix of grip and fruit compote that is a challenge to get around. The palate is an improvement though the austerity and the tannic truth brings so much tension for more late difficulty that bookends this wine of tension. Solicits some anxiety to be honest. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Dried fruit on the nose, an advancement noted, herbals and Amaro dust spicing. Seems at first to be a drink sooner rather than later nebbiolo but it is Barolo so there is always a realization that another phase will surely come and this example is expressive of a fine flavour profile in the face of tannins that are severely dry and soul-sucking. Adds up to knowing that waiting is the best option and waiting to see what will come next. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

L’Astemia Pentita Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: One of the oxidative samples, not the worst mind you but not a great indicator nonetheless. Accentuates Ribena, dried fruit molasses and austerity in the tannins. Delivers far too much wood duff and spice. Certainly not an exemplary indicator for this wine. Need to re-taste. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

A phenolic example of nebbiolo, neither the norm nor the exception for Barolo from Barolo because there are a few that nose out this way. Crisp and crunchy as well, with herbs both dried and fresh, a rise and lift on the palate and cool minty breathes going forward. Feels like a Barolo form a place within the commune, an MGA that can’t help but react and act this way. So curious! Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Réva Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

One of the more closed, markedly grippier and taut nebbioli from Barolo, again likely something cru imagined because of the singularity of its character. Quite sanguine in fact, with moments of iodine, blood orange zest and the these really layered tannins. No lack for barrel effect as well but the sheathing works well on the fruit and the compaction feels like it will slowly release and elasticize over time. Gotta be something important because the length is outstanding. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

High aromatic effect, a wave of hue, winds and airy sweetness, citrus in many parts, of oranges and reds. Brilliant perfume, bright of tones, pretty dabs of smells and pliant. Weight if also also weightless palate, more wood noted, chalky, mineral and quite intense. A wine in many parts that should surely find its way to come together. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

The spectrum of Barolo nebbiolo is great with iterations all across the line yet tired together by a commonality of threads that really isn’t noted in everywhere else, save perhaps for Monforte d’Alba? This is softer, more resolved and simpler Barolo, tannins showing the least amount of austerity, a social sip that can be enjoyed just about anytime you feel it’s right. No grip or tension, lots of wood mind you but the vanilla-white chocolate-berry swirl is a blindfold for full transparency of varietal character. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2020, Barolo

A closed if demure nebbiolo yet there is a feeling of full aromatics but they just aren’t ready to come forth. A firth of salsa readies in wait and when the austerity of structure decides to melt into the overall fabric, well then the levee can break and the estuary of fruit will almost surely run free. There is a chewy liquorice textural sensation that acts out a part currently in disconnect but the twain should be eliminated and the twinning aspects will come to be conjoined before too long. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Barale F.lli di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2020, Barolo

Buggy, acetone, distracting and ultimately faulted. Some dirty wood and a touch of Brettanomyces as well – dries the tannin into a brittle mess. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2020, Barolo

Lighter, brighter, airy nebbiolo with blood orange skin scraped and zesting the aromatic profile. Wood spice as well for a lot up front which is not so typical of Barolo by Barolo. Once again it must be an MGA directive because when a most interesting wine comes to the table without faults it just has to be cru relatable. That said there is some maturity and Amaro bitters involved so the thought concerns a warmer vineyard mixed with a wet harvest. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Camparo Barolo DOCG Barolo Coste di Vergne 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Pretty fresh for a cask sample, airy, bright and bursting with red fruits. Berries (getting strawberry specifically) and the Tuscan like Corbezzolo though it’s also a cache (persimmon)-pomegranate type of citrus too. Great acidity and stage presence, fine if not head splitting tannin and finally length to indicate a really beautiful potential for Barolo. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Gomba Barolo DOCG del Comune di Barolo 2020, Barolo

Now sink your sense into the fineness of this nebbiolo and transported to Barolo you will be, in imagination and also fantasy, to come away at the finish firmly entrenched in true blue Barolo cru reality. The near pitch perfect mix of fruit, phenolic ripeness, the creative power of architectural engineering and compositional design all conspire for what expectation and dreams decide. There is nothing out of sorts or place and the composure is something to be admired. It would shock if this were not a Barolo composed by a great (or even unheralded) producer that simply gets it, gets lucky and heeds their place in vintage plus località. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo Essenze 2020, Barolo

A nebbiolo with the cheese rind notation straight away and the musk of charcuterie skin. A cured effect that happens and when it’s found there is knowledge accrued. An old school feeling but also one that tells about producer and place. The finishing grip and austerity confirms the thought and ties the nebbiolo room together. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Barolo DOCG Fossati 2020, Barolo

Cask sample: Relatively fresh and forthright sample which is always a good sign and makes us think it’s not such a bad idea to submit these variable nebbiolo for assessment. This is in fine shape, closed, taut and firm but fruit is substantial and the future looks quite bright. This producer gets something out of the exercise and that can’t be said for many. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bussia

Barale F.lli di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2020, Barolo

Bright but not the brightest, phenolic if the not the most phenolic and firm if far from the grippiest nebbiolo from Barolo. Tart and plenty of tang, a bit a dried fruit but enough freshness to keeps things honest and driven through not what could be called a ball of energy. Ultimately a mid-weight, mid-term ager for Barolo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bric Cenciurio di Pittatore A e A Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2020, Barolo

Quiet yet composed, rich and powerfully restrained, mature, experienced and lending a very important Barolo impression. A warm cru location, phenols ripe and spices accentuating the entire experience. A great use of barrels and casks, mixing and matching of intentions from what is without a doubt a trenchant, serious and potentially profound Barolo. No messing around here, all parts working together and a decade plus another half are the guarantee. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Borgogno Barolo DOCG 2020, Barolo

No lack for aromatic grip if slightly hot as compered to some nebbiolo, from Barolo but this is juxtaposed against a brightness and breathes of fresh if also sweet fruit air. Got that blood orange and sanguine run of liquidity through the veins and acids mature to rush through in synch. The feeling is one of sweet and sour, fluid and drying, grippy, mildly austere and in the end quite proper for the singularity of cru involved. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Paiagallo 2020, Barolo

A simpler life lived by nebbiolo to represent the plausible, approachable and getable side of the Barolo village. A place within the place that delivers ease and amenability so try this one on for early drinking size. There are some tannins but they are soon to fully resolve. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

Wet red crayon opening, a waxy-chalky red brushstroke that fills the top of the page like a beacon and what follows will be paid close attention. Phenolic yet with a hint of green, tart as expected yet softer of tannin because the wood is thick and thickens the texture pasted upon the palate. There is a pulpy, almost mulchy feeling and the puréed flavours fall in line just like that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

A lighter touch but also one that comes along with acetone, not overt or dangerous but certainly there as nebbiolo is want to do. Especially from a location that might have received more rain at harvest than some others. This and the wood have softened the overall expression and so the window opening will be the one closing not too long after. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2020, Barolo

Quiet and unassuming nebbiolo, atypical for Barolo, in waiting with no hurry to be exposed. Fine enough, a bit thin ad hollow up the middle, drying late and finishing with just a whisper. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cagliero Barolo DOCG Terlo 2020, Barolo

Some dirty wood straight off the reductive top and also an oxidative maturity. Old school style, low level concentration and very little charm. Time will soften the edges but also further flatten the sensations. No real joy I’m afraid. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Castiglione Falletto

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: Fresh squeeze of blood orange, juicy if peppery reduction, piquant and plenty of piqued interest. Wood very much involved and in charge, big chains of tannic command. Needs time and more time. Loads of potential. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boroli Barolo DOCG Brunella 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Spicy and phenolic, a grippy nebbiolo with a green streak but that verdancy is likely a matter of local savour by way of savoir-faire. Not the most concentration or fill up the middle so harvest rains were most likely a factor but this will do well in the mid term and well represent Castiglione Falletto as Barolo. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Solid, correct and believable nebbiolo as Barolo with the classicism of Castiglione Falletto’s red fruit profile as specific and should plausibly be. A mix of liquorices, sweet wood spice and sun accumulation by hillsides soaking it up and getting together for a real version of this village self. Good work, not for decades but a Barolo to enjoy late into this one. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG del Comune di Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cool, salt-licked, fresh and crisp nebbiolo profile, aromatics sharp and pointed with air and sky true and blue. The barrel stays in the background but the same can’t be said of the tannins which spike and then dry, every bit as much as they should. Truly proper and correct iteration for Castiglione Falletto and 2020. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG del Comune di Castiglione Falletto 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Citrusy red fruit but also a cheese note straight away making cause to consider a minor microbial fault as part of the fabric in this wine. It’s not at the top mid you but a good long inhale finds it to indicate it will rise to the surface before too long. Meanwhile the palate is softened and flattened so you know there is some trouble further along. Carry on because there are some lovely moments to pull from this Barolo for Castiglione Falletto. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG Montanello 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Here nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto is predicated on acidity that can’t be immediately ignored while fruit is mix of berries and citrus, both equal and equally supported by the acids. Carries over to a fulsome and substantial palate that wells and collects on the surface surfeited by gravity without rising back up again. A composed and nearly ready Barolo with short term goals. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ettore Fontana Barolo DOCG Livia Fontana 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Lighter and brighter, high-toned for Castiglione Falletto and so closer in both weight and temperament to high level Langhe nebbiolo. Not to diminish Barolo or discredit this fruit source but the combination of warmth and harvest wetness has resulted in a less than concentrated example for Barolo. Wood fills in the holes but we know those flavours, appreciate the effort and understand the overall result. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Boroli Barolo DOCG Classico 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Big aromatic entry, notably fleshy and solid construct for which bones and barrel combine to set this Barolo up for a potential to effectuate a high level of success. Sometimes you can just feel the mix of correct and acumen in a nebbiolo that puts its best foot forward and ties all parts together. This from Castiglione Falletto should do well to live a good, long and prosperous life. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bovio Gianfranco di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Parussi 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Zesty, red citrus opening, pectic and mild glycerin, all red feels all the time. So very Castiglione Falletto and especially for the vintage and if it were to be compared to any other commune this time around it would have to be Serralunga d’Alba. Lighter and more elastic wines, some very pretty, yet in the vintage not many that will age forever. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Brovia Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione 2020, Castiglione Falletto

More exotic and fulsome aromatic presence from this particular nebbiolo out of Castiglione Falletto. A Barolo with substance and next level concentration, a wine of juxtapositions and complexities. Tropical fruit perfumes join the local and knowable, flavours follow suit having transitioned dutifully and seamlessly. Their is a great tannic presence and length down to the valleys and back up again. The potential this time around is indeed one of promise and knowing nods are had all around. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Fine aromatic expression here from Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo, a burst of sunshine and savour, a feeling that ripeness is equal between fruit and acidity. No green notes and yes the wood brings both spice and liquid chalkiness but this is the vintage so don’t come around with the expectation of 45-60 days of macerazione Piedmontese to qualify silken glycerol textures. Accept the reality and see the forest for the trees. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: A combination of oxidation and wood aromas. Not a flattering sample and no indication of the true nature of this particular wine. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Ettore Fontana Barolo DOCG Villero Livia Fontana 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Yet another lighter and flatteringly brighter nebbiolo from and for the vintage causation that speaks to Castiglione Falletto. This is however a fine and pure example from the commune with more finesse and precision than many to indicate MGA speciality but also producer ability. A 2020 that was paid great attention in the fields, through ferments and finally elévage to make certain respect is heeded so that the best wine could be made. The structure here is impeccable, regardless of the level of concentration and beauty will always be a hallmark of this special wine. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barolo DOCG Villero 2020, Castiglione Falletto

Wood off the top in piques and piquant spice, dried herbs and phenolic bites. Some greens and Castiglione Falletto lightness of vintage being, clearly well composed yet the challenges faced put this Barolo in obvious light. Fine and correct but sometimes things and especially successes just don’t come easy. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Tajarin – Trattoria della Posta, Monforte d’Alba

Monforte d’Alba

FrateIli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome, grippy and phenolic with solid ripeness achieved with a Monforte d’Alba Barolo that shows more strength than many of other commune or village idiom. Closer to Barolo in these regards and of nebbiolo as much about form as they are about function. There is a sweetness about the trilogy of fruit, acid and tannin, all together, in line and softening as it goes. Very solid near term example. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Less of a full and surely far from brooding nebbiolo form Monforte d’Alba but still of darker fruit and more substance than say Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba. Also lower levels of wood spice and piquancy with this most settled and softening 2020. The threads are coming together and the vision of what’s what also closer into view. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cantina Gigi Rosso Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Oxidative to the point that the fruit feels overly mature and quite frankly cooked. Yet another sample that teaches little about the future of a nebbiolo as Barolo. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Grippy and phenolic aromas, grabbing the olfactory with a firm and closed fist. Ripe and developed fruit juxtaposed against a backdrop of taut and drying tannin. A bit of a disconnect but the chasm will shorten with a few years in bottle and the consideration should be to drink this Barolo quite soon after that. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A brighter and higher toned example of Monforte d’Alba Barolo here with the blood orange mixed with other red citrus notes, though the fruit is darker as compared with some other commune’s character. Really fine palate transition with increased energy and notable wood use that lifts and extends the positive personality of this wine. Never too grippy or tannic but length is impressive and the finish supports the claim. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A most curious aromatic nebbiolo display for Monforte d’Alba and one to spend quality time investigating, considering, postulated over and getting to know. A mix of exotic red fruit, oscillating phenols and gastronomic scents that all combine for complexities not oft imagined. Musky skins, of fruits, vegetables, animals, cheeses and salumi, in and out of view with perfumes by tinctures and bitters too. Wildly complex Barolo, no lack for acidity and tannins of a grippy yet not too much tension in their touch. There is something musty however and were it not present this might be an exception for the vintage. As it stands an evergreen and clove note does distract but there is no denying how close this came to greatness. A second pour improves the impression but not perfectly so. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Rich and unctuous nebbiolo here, a vision of Monforte d’Alba loveliness and concentration, fine and expressive. Rich aboard the palate in the same way to extend from the aromas and put this is fine, seamless and well executed fashion. Truly solid Barolo, exemplary for vintage and place. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alberto Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A petrol or gaseous note here for nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba, deep red fruit, musky and citrus scraped, nearly blood orange but definitely sanguine. Also iodine and creosole, not antiseptic but chemical, in a way. Finer on the palate, meaning less synthetic but the wine flattens and quickens to finish with haste. A bit pasty in the end. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Amalia Cascina in Langa Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigna Fantini 2020, Monforte d’Alba

The smell of red crayon, charcuterie and petrol, not entirely unusual for Monforte d’Alba and a particular part, vineyard or block that just seems to have suffered more from wet conditions at harvest. Wood fills in the holes and the wine does fine, though does not excite. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Attilio Ghisolfi di Gianmarco Ghisolfi Barolo DOCG Bussia Bricco Visette 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Stoic Monforte d’Alba and while not overtly aromatic there are plenty of indications that perfumes and complexities are waiting patiently in the wings. Top quality fruit and a speciality of location put this nebbiolo in a prudent to potentially profound place, especially because the palate paints a masterpiece and length goes on forever. Top Barolo in this glass as it pertains to the commune. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Not the normal or at least expected perfume of Monforte d’Alba but 2020 is variable and a vintage expressive of so many different aromas. The scrapes of skins is akin to some sister and brethren, in particular the red fruit and salumi. Mix in some phenolic grip and Amaro spice to create a gregarious mix before a sip is even entertained. Quite woody on the palate while piquancy and flavours are mixed if also layered. There is modernity here – but also ambition. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome, easy, simple and soft, especially for Barolo from Monforte d’Alba. Wood is a major factor, milk chocolate fills the gaps with sweet-ish flavours while the remainder dries out and makes for constricting palate views. This is missing connections and threads that tie the room together. A bit disappointing for what feels like what would normally be an important wine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Not one of the more oxidative samples but instead one of mineral, chemical and elemental waves. Closed yes but also a diesel or petrol smell. The conclusion once aging is how 70-80 percent of cask samples are simply not clear representations of what will become the (in bottle) finished wine. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigneto Bofani 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: One of the finer iterations of cask samples which puts this nebbiolo to represent Monforte d’Alba in the 20-30 percent that speak to the future of said wine. Deep and delicious red fruit aromatic profile, ripeness of acidity and tannins, sweetness of parts that pique interest as much as any of this idiom. Lots of wood but well heeded for a wine that can handle this kind of truth. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Yet another taut and stoic sort for Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo but one feels quickly that major potential lays ahead. Acts with experience and impunity, keeping ripe fruit locked in safe and also tight, surrounded by the kind of structure only a top cru and a maker with great respect can do. These are fine and supportive tannins and integration will come into effect further on down the road, even while we feel the wood acts as just a bit of a thickening agent at this very juncture. No worries because the architecture and ability for adjustment are sound. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Nothing else smells like this 2020 Barolo out of Monforte d’Alba, “absotively” nothing else. Hard to describe but a reminder that having been here before tells that this place is the only one to deliver this kind of nebbiolo. A candied red fruit and strawberry feel seems like the thing to say or at least imagine but the confection is unique. The wood only compounds the effect and confected notions which ultimately gang up on the palate and interrupt the party. The most drying tannins are on their own, do little to play or interact and the overall experience is simply not positive enough in the end. Kind of a train wreck actually. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Most of the initial aromas solicit positive thoughts about knowable 2020 Monforte d’Alba Barolo but something foreign infiltrates and distracts. A green note, a pique of crispy wood spice, a drying sensation that turns the tannins to brittle. Low level so it’s hard to define. Regardless the aridity and crumbling are real so not to be ignored. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Colla Barolo DOCG Bussia Dardi Le Rose 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Sweet and sour perfumes, fruit mainly but here also florals which is a blessing for the 2020 vintage in Barolo, especially from Monforte d’Alba because it is not what could be called a flowery vintage. Also a mineral feeling here, of chalky sand mixed with wood but in the end the flavours on this nebbiolo are those of fine natural sweetness. Good tart edges, also tension and parts quite in synch from start to finish. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A lighter and brighter aromatic perfume, rising and airy though thankfully so far from what would be considered or called acetic. Just fruit without dustiness or balsamico gariga, more like berries and sweet citrus, one of those rare nebbiolo that imagines raspberries – in fact the only one out of 200-plus tasted at this time. A crunchy example for 2020 and again, the first to induce that feeling of scorrevole, of the wine gracing and sliding across the palate, It is tannic however and needs quite a bit of time to come together. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Bussia 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A nebbiolo with a thickening texture, a bit starchy at this stage and clearly a matter of wood that texturizes, tenderizes and the fills the gaps where fruit could not do it alone. A very correct and yes finely traditional Barolo to speak for vintage and likely also place within a place. Well made, nothing grandiose and in the end a wine deserving of respect. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG Bussia Biologico 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Some acetic tones come quick and obvious with the scrape of red citrus and more wood spice than many. Perhaps not typical 2020 Monforte d’Alba Barolo but the vintage shows so much variegation, not only from commune to commune but also incrementally so within each one. This thins and hollows up the middle where the barrel piques higher and tighter, as it seemingly must to tie the wine together. The cellar work is noted and the arid finish certifies the result. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Fortemasso Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fine stage presence here for nebbiolo, bright and engaging, ripeness achieved and concentration quite ample. Felt like a longer maceration than many, likely an outlier in this respect for the vintage and so that macerazione Piedmontese feeling is achieved. The palate seems to confirm what was purposed and while drying tannins suggest some austerity there is nothing to fret about or be concerned with because that style is par for the Barolo course. Should live a decade long at the very least. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Castelleto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Closed if also mineral, phenolic, minty cool and sapid. The first to be considered this way because there is neither a saltiness or a chalkiness to the aromas and also flavours. Cool, savoury, crunchy and gripped by tannic tension. Will be a bit too serious for some and just spot on for others. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sara Vezza Barolo DOCG Castelletto Persiera 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Slightly funky beats and phenolic grittiness get together for a nebbiolo of grip, pomp and circumstance. Liquid chalky, washed cheese rind sweetness and a liquidity more soup or salsa than stew. In others words a thickening agent of emulsion that is very present on the palate. Not the most pure or precise Barolo for Monforte d’Alba but well enough in the end. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Icollirossi Barolo DOCG Del comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Cask sample with TCA. Not a good thing. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Rich and inviting example of 2020 Barolo, softer than some others out of Monforte d’Alba but don’t sleep on these sneaky and grippy tannins. Purity of fruit, ripe yet low level phenolics and a lime saltiness that suggests minerals and therefore lower pH. Truly proper and highly expressive nebbiolo, modern to be sure but clearly a wine of great respect and also restraint, This is some of the finest barrel usage in the entirety of the vintage, no matter the commune or MGA. One of the top wines in so many respects. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Del Comune di Monforte d’Alba 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cool, savoury, mineral and mint inflected, spiced nebbiolo with plenty of wood straight off the top. Phenolic and tart but even more so one of those Barolo that speaks of tang. Not a salty one and surely representative of the greater and broader idiom that is Monforte d’Alba. Fine enough, welcoming and in terms of flavour profile, really quite strong. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Ginestra Vigna del Gris 2020, Monforte d’Alba

High-toned, mildly acetic and carrying the balsamico gene in its DNA. Also a moment of Ribena, indications of verdancy but also quicker to elévage ferments. In this vintage the substance is diminished, as are the concentration and finesse of finer Barolo. Will come out of its shell and drink with better proportion because balance is there, if not the stuffing and breadth needed for long aging. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renzo Seghesio Barolo DOCG Ginestra Vigna Pajana 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Musty, possibly a small amount of TCA. Second bottle sound though still a bit of mustiness which indicates variability of problems in the cellar. Neither the freshest nor most expressive Barolo but the fruit quality that lies behind the issues feels like it’s pretty solid and pure. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Renzo Seghesio Barolo DOCG Ginestra 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fine red fruit, not overtly perfumed but elegantly and classically arranged. A lovey swirl of what you look for in Barolo, not a wine of power but certainly a terrific expression of a unique sector within Monforte d’Alba. Finishes long and continuously engaging. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Lovely of upfront and expressive fruit without hesitation as a willing aromatic participant in this fragrant nebbiolo. Less of a power driven and grippy example of Monforte d’Alba which shows that MGA versions are finer, more precise and less direct than their Villages counterparts. There is a crunchiness and a delicate floridity here with tannins as long-chained as they are sneaky. Should see the middle of the next decade without much change and continue on well beyond. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Amalia Cascina in Langa Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

There are many opposite and apposite styles in 2020 Barolo, even within communes and here Monforte d’Alba does an about face in terms of MGA. Plenty of phenolic grip involved here, much like some Villages iterations and less like the nebbioli out of specific crus. Quite tannic and intensely drying at the finish so make sure salty protein is on the table, both now and when this wine settles down several years from now. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Diesel or at least mineral smell coming from what feels like will be a formidable creature of Barolo. Rich and potent, much sweeter fruit on the palate from what acts quite like modernized nebbiolo. Plenty of brut force, grip and intensity which puts this in a great place for those who want extreme sensations gained out of their Barolo experience. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Strong mocker this nebbiolo out of Monforte d’Alba with a heady aromatic push of weight and density. Some floral perfume but no matter how much this tries to deliver without compaction it just can’t seem to rise with any real lift. Full, substantial and conclusive. A big Barolo for fans of that ilk. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Pecchenino Barolo DOCG Le Coste di Monforte 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Mildly oxidative sample, nothing egregious but neither operetta nor perfect in any case. That said there is a dill and stem effect to speak of some parts that have yet to clean themselves up so that the wine can currently speak of pure fruit, vintage and place. Remains to be seen if this one can get to that better place but the structural parts say that it will. Need to taste a finished bottle to draw a full and possibly finer conclusion. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

E.Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A softer and quicker to get at Monforte d’Alba Barolo with languid textures after the easiest of aromatics on offer. Fruit is very ripe, already maturing and while there are some peppery moments to the acidity it’s really nothing to run away from. Tannins are truly soft and without much parental control. Seems not to matter because this drinks so beautifully to tell us the maker felt that this was not a vintage to press or push. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Have nosed this before, this combination of acetic, Ribena, sweet and sour elements. Not the cleanest nebbiolo and not Monforte d’Alba representative at all. More than one technical flaw present in this wine. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Abbona di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Pressenda 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Medium intensity noted from the start with ripeness though edgy and savoury aromatics begin the begin. Good weight and a punchiness, then again of middle ground style and some old-school thinking definitely involved. Tradition followed in a pretty clean and crisp Nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba. Will age quite well. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cà Brusà Barolo DOCG del comune di Monforte d’Alba ‘Menico’ 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Markedly woody aromas, spices and capsicum spiciness, savoury to bitter herbs. Or like the smell of fresh cut tubers, wasabi even, freshly grated and getting up to clear the olfactory. Tart red fruit more stone than citrus, crunchy as nebbiolo, phenolic to a degree and more than ripe as needed. Quality Barolo overall and quite definitive as a Village example for Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castelletto 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A middle ground Monforte d’Alba nebbiolo with some experience in old styling, genrous if judicious use of wood, tradition followed and an adherence to heritage. Classic in many respects, what many would expect and quite successful for the vintage. A solid and correct collection of 2020, Barolo and Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sordo Giovanni di Sordo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Perno 2020, Monforte d’Alba

On the bright, airy and sweet acidity side of the Monforte d’Alba tracks, staring at the more powerful and darker fruit versions on the other side and smiling, resistant, residing firm and comfortable in its skin. A style that is very attractive and one that speaks in gentle, pretty and nurturing tones. Sure there is wood spice and piques of savour but this beautifully maintains its brightness and litheness from start to finish. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Perno 2020, Monforte d’Alba

A step or perhaps two above the light and the transparent type, still fine and finessed but with an added level of grip and power compared to some in the variegate vintage. Chewy in fact (as opposed to crunchy) but still fresh, crisp and piquant. There is more substance in this nebbiolo without any compromise to energy or tension. Can see the longevity lingering well past the average for Monforte d’Alba and much of the rest of Barolo. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Alessandria Gianfranco Barolo DOCG San Giovanni 2020, Monforte d’Alba

Fulsome and mostly ripe nebbiolo here from Monforte d’Alba though there is also a mild verdant streak running on through. Minty savour, cool runnings of herbs and spices with wood as the driver. Quality from the commune and a proper representation of vintage in so many respects but a reminder that the green note can’t be denied. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2018

Viberti Giovanni Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco delle Viole 2018, Barolo

Of the 13 Barolo Riserva on offer this in one that really speaks to the fruit and cask relationship because neither have really jumped the gun to truly advance or resolve. A testament perhaps to the ample and sturdy structure of this 2018 and it looks as though two more years will be needed to see any real change in the matter. Full, substantial and the kind of Barolo (from Barolo) that wants to take its sweet time. OK, so there are palate notes that indicate movement but this is very fresh and long from getting into secondary character. Still ways to go. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Bergadano cav. Enrico di Bergadano Piercarlo Barolo Riserva DOCG Sarmassa 2018, Barolo

Wildly aromatic, nearly exotic and über fresh Barolo Riserva that belies age and speaks to tightly wound structure. Lots of wood however and so there is this gelato swirl of vanilla and chocolate flavours that dominate and dictate the style of the wine. A bit commercial and gratuitous in this regard but thankfully the winemaking and technical expertise are quite impressive. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Giacosa Fratelli Barolo Riserva DOCG Scarrone 2018, Castiglione Falletto

Not only has this 2018 Riserva advanced to a really fine place but it has done so as a quality representative of the grace, charm and nurturing style of Barolo out of the smaller and tight-knit commune of Castiglione Falletto. The mix of red berries and especially spice cupboard notes provided by the casks make for a fun, joyous and piquant ride in Barolo Riserva. Great energy persists and there will be five more years like this, with easily five more in a finely settled secondary zone. After that the tertiary will offer up nothing short of a smile. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Vignolo 2018, Castiglione Falletto

Cask sample: Truly sample territory with Barolo Riserva 2018 that is so far away from where it is intended to go. A good sample, clean and without any sort of must or oxidation, nor any moments of uncomfortable wonder. The wood is omnipresent and there can be no great reason to revisit for a at least two years. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cascina del Monastero di Grasso Giuseppe Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Rocca 2018, La Morra

A high toned Barolo here for Riserva, not shy and aromatically potent with up-level grip in that ilk. Power and phenolic bite, big fruit swells, candied florals macerating in simple sweet petal syrup and an Amaro liqueur so concentrated it’s hard to see through to the palate. Yet there are flavours just as ample and oozing, a La Morra of as much textural volume as any likely to be found. Modern and stylish, unabashedly beautiful and all the while sturdy, structured and the most un-skittishly Barolo in the books. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Rizieri Barolo Riserva DOCG Silio 2018, La Morra

Very pretty and floral Riserva, a Barolo from La Morra of silk and purity, beautifully aromatic with its natural perfume. Yet another stunner for the 2018s and the seance of modern nebbiolo captured. All that said the wood is so much more involved with waves of vanilla, lavender and graphite emanating, infiltrating and taking over the middle to latter stages of the wine. It’s beautiful but ultimately just a bit too much. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Cà Brusà Barolo Riserva DOCG 10 anni Bricco San Pietro ‘Vigna d’Vai’ 2018, Monforte d’Alba

Cask sample: Tight and closed sample but another one in very fine shape without flaws or mistakes made during the transfer to this anteprima. Liquid chalky, tart, tight and of as much tension as there can be in nebbiolo, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba and Riserva. A different sort for 2018 but also one that indicates the nature and idiom of its commune. Long life ahead and far from opening the window. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2018, Monforte d’Alba

A more or further resolved Barolo here from Monforte d’Alba, fruit as a mix of fresh and also dried leathery style, acidity persistent but it too feels like it has done some travelling time. Not that the nebbiolo here has been unraveling, on the contrary it stands up linear and strong but namely because the wood is big and the tannins are tight. In the end the chocolate and even a moment of porcini are the defining factors that tell us the wine is entering its secondary stage and the best years are for here and now. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Sara Vezza Barolo Riserva DOCG Castelletto Millenovecento48 2018, Monforte d’Alba

First bottle TCA. Second bottle just a bit musty but still lowest level of corkiness. Not perfect however and the palate is quite flattened by the flaw. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo Riserva DOCG Adasi 2018, Più comuni

Something unusual and clearly out of sorts on the aromatics. Paint thinner, essence of beet or the equivalent and so it smells earthy and volatile. Microbial in any case, in the irregular sesquiterpenoid-Geosmin way. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Enrico Serafino Barolo Riserva DOCG Briccolina 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

A fine and firm Riserva 2018 for Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, rich and piquant with red fruit galore by way of berries, citrus and plum. Indicative of all these skin scents and fleshy flavours, unhindered by wood and so simply the concept realized of nebbiolo unencumbered. Truly Riserva of style and effect, substantial and layered, fresh, generous and long. Really good wine. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Germano Ettore di Germano Sergio Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

A lighter Riserva here from Barolo out of Serralunga d’Alba, pulpy if not entirely fleshy, fulsome though not one of major concentration. Don’t sell its abilities short because the barrel fills in holes and increases the perception of flesh though it’s also a bit of a distraction. Chewy for 2018 and the commune, full and proper, ready to roll in just a short time. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Mauro Sebaste – Sylla Barolo Riserva DOCG Ghe 2018, Serralunga d’Alba

Big, boisterous and powerful Barolo as Riserva, especially for 2018 and yet right there for this aspect and trenchant intendment to support the possibilities out of Serralunga d’Alba. A wine of fruit times wood plus tannin factored with acids as the great catalyst to bring all of these extra weighty and special elements together. There is a minty savour here, capsicum spiciness and length for kilometres up and down these Langhe hills. This is truly extraordinary Riserva. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

Barolo DOCG 2010

Bric Cenciurio SSA di Pittatore A e A Barolo DOCG Coste di Rose 2010, Barolo

Showing its age, now resinous and that sense of “brewed,” like malted barley or Sake of a brown rice origin. Complex aromatics are the finest parts, of ginger and cardamom plus bokser pod, a.k.a. more interesting than liquorice. Full bodied, carrying its wood with distinction and while it’s clearly a nebbiolo from another era it has aged well and does well to represent a most important cru. Barolo’s Coste di Rose for the win. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG del Comune di Barolo 2010, Barolo

A single commune Barolo at 14-15 years may not always be expressive of that ideal mix between interest and longevity but Virna Borgogno’s Barolo has done quite well thank you very much. Yes the resins, saps and brews are all in the mix, tannins are quite brittle at this stage and the years have been gaining for at least five…but there is charm in these old bones. They creak but their stories are fascinating. Is that not part of the exercise and the goal? Tasted January 2024

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2010, Barolo

An aromatic pot full of spice and resins here, very wood directed but more complex than most and freshness persists in flavours still on the rise. True interest and not just for today but a nebbiolo that will continue to change and develop next stage notes over three-plus more years. Once again Sarmassa proves its worth as a cru that can age with charm, piquing spices and grace. Drying late but that is no surprise. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo Barolo DOCG Barolo Sarmassa – 10 Anni Edizione Limitata 2010, Barolo

Would have been released four years ago and would have been at peak but four more turns of the calendar have seen some tiring notes come creeping in. Now the wood is the dominant aroma and unfortunately the fine chocolate having already been consumed. Now resinous and dark soya brew, acids still high but fruit having faded away. Finishes with the aridity left behind by consuming tannins. A hot vintage is surely the reason and yet there is always some sentiment of charm in every bottle from this estate. Still there are surely better Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo bottles of Sarmassa 2010 out there that will show better than this. Tasted January 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2010, Castiglione Falletto

Great showing here for Bava’s 2010 Scarrone, bright and fresh, fruit still in line with the structural parts of the wine. Just what aged nebbiolo as Barolo would be, crunchy and spiced, wood very much a part of its make-up but resting now in harmony. Some others show more complexity but most do not exist in a balanced bubble as this surely does. The crus of Castiglione Falletto hold these abilities and use them well. They are tops in 2010. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG Brunate 2010, La Morra

Quite mature, fallen fully into late secondary notes and already thinking about passing over to the tertiary. Puts the timeline into this and next year for likely the last of this stage. Earthy as much as any with porcini especially and the damp leaves of November. Chewy and tannic still, more than fun for a glass though be sure to do that today and move on to something other tomorrow. Tasted January 2024

F.lli Casetta di Casetta Ernesto e c. Barolo DOCG Case Nere 2010, La Morra

Still the linger of what was surely a very reductive nebbiolo and despite the advance of years that feeling can’t be shed. Covers up complexities and really only wood and earth are able to compose aromatic notes for Casa Nere. More like terre nere here because what’s underfoot is all that is nosed. The flavours are more interesting with some lingering berries and more so frutta do bosco but varnishes take over and finish the deal. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted January 2024

Mauro Molino Mauro Barolo DOCG Conca 2010, La Morra

A nose full of aromatic spices and a head full of wonder are what this engaging and spirited Conca by Molino will offer as a 14-plus year old Barolo. A relationship between producer and cru well defined and celebrated for us the beneficiaries in 2024. Delicious nebbiolo, a bit of extra wood as compared to what 2020 will show in 2034 but times they were and times they have changed. Our job is simply to roll with them. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2010, La Morra

Full disclosure: Not having tasted this blind the expectation for a 14-15 year-old nebbiolo from this kind of combination between producer and MGA is unabashedly high because, well Settimo and Rocche dell’Annunziata. A warm La Morra and Barolo vintage but one of the past and so boom, 2010 Rd’A is a smash. Maturing to be sure and also as complex, exotic and vital as they come. Seductive mix of fruit, nuts and marmalades that is usually only reserved for fortified wines. Close your eyes and imagine this mix between forty year-old vintage port and dry as the desert, decade and a half nebbiolo. That is Settimo’s functionality. Pour this with the Piedmontese cheese course – you can buy that thrill. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2024

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG Bussia 2010, Monforte d’Alba

Aging, settled and demure. Well past prime yet lovely and quietly generous. Fruit and spice no longer viable and a finish that’s quite drying. And yet there is grace and charm to speak well on behalf of Bussia in the hands of Silvano Bolmida. Tasted January 2024

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

A Gramolere for Monforte d’Alba wearing its years on both sleeves with leaves trampled underfoot and the warmth of fall more humid than crisp fresh air. Still the red fruits persist if dried, leathery and chewy but they do linger and bring palate joy. The wood has helped to age this 2010 quite comfortably well and so a glass more than works at this time. Must have food though because the tannins are persistently austere. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted January 2024

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Though fully advanced and mature there is this linger of fruit and acid sweetness in Batasiolo’s Briccolina ’10. A mix of capsicum and baking spices brings accent to the residuals and all are gathered for the fidelity of what 14-plus year-old nebbiolo can spin. Proper old Barolo is something like this and who would not appreciate the blessing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Germano Ettore di Germano Sergio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Ceretta may not be the first cru that comes to mind for a decade and a half of ideal longevity but this 2010 from the Germano family has done as well as any to hang around. Something still taut about the aromas, mature as they are but not yet having fully loosened or come undone. The laces on this nebbiolo must have been stretched tight from the start and so that structure has kept the wine intact. Plenty to hang onto, mull and chew, work with alongside local cuisine. Fine retrospective look. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Casa E. di Mirafiore & Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Well past prime, resinous and dirt at this time. The smell of compost and kerosene. No joy. Tasted January 2024

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

The 2010 Lazzarito by Famiglia Anselma feels like a nebbiolo as Barolo that has finished half or just a bit more of its secondary aging because some freshness persists while tertiary notes are also beginning to be imagined. This limbo is like a state of grace with best parts of all three worlds drawn Venn diagrammatically on overlap for maximum complexity. Hard to find a 2010 in better shape than this and while wood is a bit overdone there is so much else to go on for joy to be found and charm to applaud. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2024

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Nebbiolo of this age can manifest itself in so many different ways and Palladino’s Ornato is a truly singular Barolo. The most cool savour of this tasting, led by mint and chocolate, finishing with the cream of morels in their emulsified texture of nutty but also sweet butter. The perfect 14-15 year blanch of fruit and wood, energy alive, gently spiced and lingering with soft demure. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2024

Alario Claudio Barolo DOCG Sorano 2010, Serralunga d’Alba

Showing every day of its 170-plus months of age past vintage in the here plus now of dark soy, chocolate and caramel. Quite akin to a Chocolate Cherry Blossom with the confiture ooze after a bite is taken with sweet wood flavours and resins running hither and thither. Fine enough for a glass with a cold day’s winter veal braise. Tasted January 2024

Borgogno 2008

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008

Borgogno Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, Barolo

Now travelling back 16-17 years for Riserva out of the nebbiolo-Barolo relationship and there really shouldn’t be any shock that a Borgogno has lasted so well this long. Not to mention one of no mention, meaning a Villages example from Barolo commune. Incredible fruit longevity, true freshness as if grapes were cryogenically frozen in time and then poured from this bottle. It’s uncanny and the sort of age-ability most Barolo can only dream of. Forget how much tasters are want to say that Barolo can age for decades – this is the true definition of aging. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted January 2024

Gagliasso Mario Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, La Morra

Fruit from more than one source around La Morra village has come together quite well in Gagliasso’s 2008 Barolo Riserva, a nebbiolo still standing vertical. With a lean of course but still one that has tested time and come out the other side. Plenty of residual wood in sap plus resin, fruit fully secondary and a really spicy tang. Sharp and pointed, angles and lines drawn this way the that, energy running quite high. Solid work out of 2008. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted January 2024

Barolo Riserva 2008

Barale F.lli di Barale Sergio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2008, Monforte d’Alba

A much moire advanced nebbiolo here from Bussia and when compared to 2008 Riservas from La Morra or Barolo it just feels like this is a much older wine. That said the acidity is sweet, sour and happy so the Barale does have that in its corner. Not a sipping wine even at this stage but one needing food to tame its wild side. Tasted January 2024.

Sarotto Roberto Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008, Più comuni

Can’t miss the wild strawberry out of this 17-plus year-old nebbiolo from Sarotto without any specific commune or mention to its name. A Barolo of ubiquity that has done well to gift some charm all these years later and one that could be sipped all on its own. The wood was big then as it is now but the mix of vanilla an lavender has melted into a gelato-like scoop of sweet flavour. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted January 2024

Good to go!

godello

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Dec28

Chianti Classico Collection, Stazione Leopolda

Composing a year-end, these are the most thrillin’ wines tasted in the last 12 months list is kinda akin to scribbling up a little warble, if you get the director’s drift. The question begs, what’s the cause, what’s the meaning and ultimately why bother? Reminiscences are part of the human condition and while there is little amusement however in watching a wine critic taste wines, there just may be some interest in reading said list, checking it twice and coming to a personal conclusion as to which choices are worthy, and which are merely nice.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

You will find a notable cadent shift in this year’s melody away from there being a substantial number of older wines chosen as having been the year’s most exciting. Not to mention a concentration of certain grapes and their OG places. It’s just, well, natural. For 2023 more of the choices are directed towards hopelessly romantic youthful wines in their extant moments still years away from entering their right proper drinking windows. No shortage of opportunities in 2023 to taste top examples – Of sangiovese, nebbiolo, nerello mascalese, nero d’avola, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, grenache, syrah, chardonnay, riesling, assyrtiko and chenin blanc – Are but a range within the lion’s share of varietal moments.

Sicilia en Primeur

Old wines can elicit epiphanies but a conscious effort is made to include as many current vintages as possible, provided they represent a winery’s best of the best. This is the state of winemaking today because deeper understanding, the consummate use of technology and a passionate willingness to always improve are qualifying so many of the world’s finest wines at poll positions to a greater degree than before. There is little surprise that Italian wines coexist in highest favour if only because the author spends more than 25 percent of a 365-day timeframe in that country. Italy’s long, deep and intimate relationship with success is a serious attraction and so being afforded the opportunity to taste 2,000 Italian wines in a calendar year will almost certainly result in experiencing no less than 50 thrilling examples. A Bordeaux trip in September to 25 growth properties could and should rightly deliver wines to dot this list. Same could be said for many other palate awakening wine regions worldwide. All this and yet overall travels and tastings were less diverse and more focused in 2023. The author is known to follow the work.

L’Etna, Sicily

Act one: Nebbiolo Prima. Act two: Two weeks later, the Chianti Classico Collection. Act three: Three months later, Sicilia en Primeur and a Canadian Sommelier boot camp with Chianti Classico. Act four: Summer in Paris with Lambrusco, judging at the Nationals in the Okanagan Valley for WineAlign, shooting video in Florence, up to Collio and Hungary and finally 113 degrees in the smoky shade of Washington. Act five: Europe all fall, from Bordeaux to Monferrato, Chianti Classico to Montalcino, Piedmontazine Alta Langa and back to Chianti Classico. These decisions are not taken lightly, nor are they apocryphal fabrications, but they are Godello’s 23 mind-blowing wines of 2023.

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW 2020, West Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes

Upper echelon aromatic stage presence, stoic and static as riesling must be if it wants to set a gold standard. Dry entry that sides and morphs into natural sweetness of peach and Forelle pear, almost lime cotton candy scented. From the original vineyard planted in 1976 closer to the lake where tender varieties excel. The elastic extension and tension together coexist as long as Seneca runs from the snow belt to Watkins Glen. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2023

Vineyards of the Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee Des Vignerons 2021, PDO Santorini, Greece

Of course 100 per cent assyrtiko, picked and collected between six and eight AM, straight into the press, stainless steel vinified, no cooling, no passing go, no collecting 200 drachmas. All about preserving essential freshness, finesse and elegance. Spontaneous fermentation, a year on lees, in bottle six months. It is right here where we are to understand why Yiannis Valambous gave up a life 14 years ago that was not focused on Santorini, chose to return and altered his history. Santorini once a place of summers spent without purpose or tension is now all encompassing, focused on assyrtiko and for good reason. It is the variety to which all white grapes now aspire. Gramina sheds distraction and focuses on purity and 2021 is a great vintage. It celebrates assyrtiko from where it thrives and conveys that all important message of place. After tasting the Vassaltis Cuvée Des Vignerons 2021 winemakers around the world will ask their farmers to plant the grape in the place where they are. They will do so because even a fraction of this excellence will be worth pursuing. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Ulmo Chardonnay

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028. Tasted May 2023

With Sarah Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA, Yakima Valley, Washington

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J.B. Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard 2008, Napa Valley, California

As Trailside Vineyard from Heitz will always do, is it the acid that is preserved. This was the case in both the ’06 and the ’07 but back in 2008 the aromatics were expressed in extra level florals, savoury elements and a charming layering of swarthiness. Five years of bottle aging before release plus nine more since have gathered the necessary elements and when you nose but then taste this wine you just know that it is Heitz, by style and out of a context that speaks to what the vineyard is want and purposed to say. Fine position, time and place right here, right now, ready, willing, able to please and without any moment of equivocation. Might just stay this way for another five, perhaps even ten years. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted October 2023

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Napa Valley, California

Opened after a near 20-year stay in the cellar and just a few days after tasting the 2010 and 2020 with Beth Weber Novak in Toronto. The vintage has not been considered as one to hold as long as either 2001 or 2003 but there can be no questioning this 2002’s longevity on this very day. Inventiveness without reinvention because this scents as fresh as it must have been at the essence of its very nascence. All that can be crushed to express in aromas for which imagination conjures berries, stones, clay and flowers. Spottswoode ’02 defines a Napa Vally posit tug between power and grace while existing in a controlled state of confidence and calm. A wine that gently, privately seduces the palate, body and mind into the gentlest slumber of our lives. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted May 202

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020, Sicily, Italy

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2023

Il Poggio, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February and May 2023

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2009, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy

Colonia Vineyard is a short jog up the hill past Rancia and through the woods. In 1966 Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the “tufa” hills of his Fèlsina estate. It was small, built of stone and with a wide brick vault. It was a start. In 1967 he chose to plant Colonia in an impossibly challenging and extreme Alberese limestone rocky location. He used dynamite because that was the thing at the time but it was soon outlawed and made clearing the land near impossible. Twenty-four years later Giovanni Poggiali resumed the project and planted its first vines in 1993, just before Domenico passed away. Colonia 2009 is La Prima, the first Gran Selezione and this look back is one to recall roots (tethered to 2006), familial traditions and passing of the Chianti Classico torch. This vintage separates and leaves its original designations in the rear-view mirror. At 14 years of age it remains austere but austere can be beautiful. As here, with severe and chiseled features though the savoury elements differ from Rancia. More resinous evergreen and forested aromas but also a chalkiness that speaks directly out of the Alberese. The thing is Colonia remains still young and fresh, while the powdered mineral persists unresolved. One of the most fascinating retrospective looks at aged Chianti Classico. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana IGT

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Last tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2021, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Paolo’s first tasting of this finished 2021 Cepparello since bottling back in May is this right here. The frost vintage, namely on April 7th, with secondary buds on the Cordone vines being the source of most of the wine’s fruit. Not a disaster at Isole e Olena, maybe 35 percent loss in total but the quality was high and so less Chianti Classico was made. “That wine is less about the vintage for us,” says de Marchi and so this as the decision made to cope with the small crop. Once again (and since forever) Paolo employs the aromas and proteins inducing method of soft maceration, long délestage and skins connected back with already half fermented juice. The ’21 is a wine of “frescezza” and yet saying freshness does not do the description justice. There is tension and a nervous energy buzzing from Cepparello 2021 and one to really hold your attention. There may be no Italian word for texture but were there one that made any real sense it might be the dramatic threads of “weft” from this 2021 youthful work in progress. This will be a Cepparello for the ages, Buy it and bank on it. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted December 2023

Related – 15 Mind blowing wines of 2015

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Conti Costanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colle Al Matrichese 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988, Tuscany, Italy

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Related – Mind blowing wines of 2014

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017, Barbaresco, Piedmont

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Château Troplong-Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

First vintage where the malolactic fermentation was done 100 percent in tank before being racked to barrel. Some simultaneous spontaneity overlapping with alcoholic fermentation but more often than that there will be control to have them happen one after the other. The fact that 35 percent of the vineyards at the top of the hill are filled with the hardest clay anywhere in Bordeaux, coupled with limestone all over creates the most mineral quotient around. This transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019 but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. Whether you are familiar with, an expert on or just arriving at a Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classé for the first time – it just doesn’t matter. This 2019 will blow your mind. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France

Extremely different vintage but not like ’17, here with much darker, riper and developed fruit. Freshness would have to have been a challenge but at 13.5 percent alcohol and high pH there comes this ulterior freshness with texture imposed by great and forceful will. More active infusion earlier on because there was so much colour and extraction on hand from a vintage where the blend was nearly the same as that of 2017. That being 38 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (27) merlot. There really is no other chateau that creates this style, a mix of salt and pepper seasoning over blue to black fruit and in 2018 the whole bunch inclusion was 60 percent. If you are buying high end Bordeaux from 2018 then Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the place to be, though it’s likely sold out wherever you may live. Just about nothing else in the Left Bank finds this level of quality, balance and success. The whole bunch “infusion” methodology controls the heat and excess of the vintage to deliver finesse, precision, restraint and honesty. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

We are all Asti

Apr21

We search the world’s most famous regions for the most profound and moving wines but are caught up by a mix of pedigree and marketing, so often not truly making the connections. We are bought and sold, invested in the attractive and oft times the austere. Beauty is everywhere and sometimes right under our noses, yet are we not blinded or at the very least distracted by confidence and power? These thoughts can be applied to many things but as it pertains to wine there is a clear message. Open your heart, mind and palate to seek what others pass over, to experience what is real. And so en route to Alba for Nebbiolo Prima I first made way to the land of moscato. There and for the third time in four years I visited with seven prominent producers to further an education and understanding about a most important wine. Moscato d’Asti. Why? Simply because we are all Asti.

Moscato, Castiglione Tinella

In October of 2022 I hosted three events in Toronto to pour, speak about and celebrate the precocious joy of Moscato d’Asti. A sommelier lunch and consumer event, both held at Barque Smokehouse shared 18 examples of the lightly sparkling, low alcohol, impeccably balanced, multi-styled, food-friendly and Piedmontese heritage wines. More than 100 professionals and wine lovers chose to experience the wonders of these refreshing wines. Why? Once again the answer is the same. We are all Asti.

Monferrato Hills, Piemonte

I visited the region in December of 2018 and also 2019, then returned again this past January, to reconnect with the land and the people who share an imperative to keep heritage alive, but today growers and producers do so much more than merely follow tradition. New vinification and filtration techniques not only create the cleanest Moscato d’Asti ever made but also equip the wines with better aging potential than before. Moscato d’Asti does age well, in fact I tasted several examples of three to four year-old wines mired in a dumb phase but also seven to 10 year old wines that having now re-emerged, were drinking with giddy delight.

Filtration system, Matteo Sorìa

These moscato producers are 100 per cent all in. Many may make other wines but when it comes to Moscato d’Asti there are no distractions from any other grapes; not barbera, dolcetto, nebbiolo, chardonnay, etc. Some are experimenting with dry iterations while others are practicing long lees aging to craft complex moscato as traditional method sparkling wine. The permutations are endless and while promise is everywhere there is no deviation from the original. Every producer makes one because they could not imagine abandoning their heritage.

Ristorante Curia, Acqui Terme

With moscato one needs to avoid bacteria and fermentative aromas at all costs. Allows the machinery and modern technology to purify, cleanse and determine the purity of these wines though they are all made from hand-picked grapes. They are the cleanest wines in the territory but also expressive of their place, from Canelli to Castiglione Tinella to Strevi. In some cases each year a percentage of the last year’s must is integrated into the current vintage and so in the case of Matteo Soria, each time there is 15 per cent from two years previous, and three, and so on. It’s like a Solera in effect with a decreasing percentage of a previous vintage within the whole of current must amounts.

Carciofi Fritti at Ristorante Curia, Acqui Terme

The following are tasting notes on 18 Moscato d’Asti tasted in Piemonte back in January, 2023. The producers did of course share other wines and so those 28 reviews are included at the bottom of this report. A huge thank you to the Consorzio dell’Asti, to Direttore Giacomo Pondini, Martina Bukavec and my chaperone Paola Baldi. Ci vediamo.

Azienda Agricola Ghiga Enrico Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022

Davide Ghiga finished oenology school in Alba 2014, his brother in 2009. They are really the only young winemakers making a go of it in Castiglione, the first generation to make wines here, since 2012. Their uncle’s grapes were sold off to cooperatives before then and while barbera, dolcetto and nebbiolo have gained importance, the true heritage is still moscato. Freshness and high aromatic intensity are on full open display, as it must be with a varietal wine that bleeds this place, that being Castiglione Tinella. There are several exposures available, starting with the northern grapes and moving around the exposure wheel, east and west picked next and south the last, where sugars are high and acidity low. Pressed, three musts chosen from, kept at 0-1 degrees celsius, unfermented at this time. Blended, filtered, natural yeasts eliminated, back to zero degree holding tanks. Now in late October early November the vinification starts, selected yeasts are used, for 10-12 days, honing in on and fixing the aromatics and CO2. Done at 14-15 degrees with pressure at one bar. Followed by filtering again and tartaric stabilization at negative four or five degrees. Ready to bottle. Sugar at 120 g\L, acidity between 5.5 and 6, alcohol at five per cent. Tough work but someone has to do it. Spot on moscato in low alcohol, light fizz style with stone fruit and citrus aromatics on full display and in utmost control. Labour of love sets up true Ghiga success. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Moscato d’Asti DOCG Le Casette di Alice 2022

A truly airy, frothy and easy moscato and yet the tannins of 2022 are there, as always across the board in this vintage. High acidity matches to the 120 g\L of sugar and 5.5 per cent alcohol. So much pear, soft and broken down by citrus with fresh white flowers. This is the straightforward and getable Md’A in all respects. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Moscato d’Asti DOCG Paiè 2020

The cooperative of Alice bel Colle comprises 350 hectares spilt between 200 moscato, 100 brachetto, 50 barbera plus small amounts of dolcetto and chardonnay. There are approx. 100 members and more than 2,000,000 annual bottles are produced. “Our idea is not to grow too much, otherwise we will lose quality” says President Claudio Negrino who oversees the Cantina along with Vice President Bruno Roffredo. Moscato d’Asti as Paiè is a contra style to the normale, a bit of age added on and yet shy of the dumb phase that is sure to follow. There is more concentration and density on the nose with fresh herbs, sage mainly and even white balsamic. Paiè is a small valley with a warmer micro-climate and the potential for over ripeness. This brings more sugar (140 g\L of RS here), body and stage presence. Stylistically this will attract a different consumer who wants to think about things a bit and also appreciates a bigger wine that matches to more specific cuisine. The suggestion here is of course dessert but also spicy coconut curries. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Asti DOCG Dolce Metodo Classico

Disgorged in 2015, seven-plus years on the lees and unmistakably white balsamic in aroma. The flowers and orange skin are now candied, the fennel slowly braised with Vidalia to bring out the sweetness. One of the most curious examples of using the moscato grape variety for a style of wine never really having been afforded the opportunity to try. Now a toasty expression fuelled by linalool that has turned to smouldering paraffin and camphor oil. Fine bitters though the sweetness still triumphs in the end. Nothing like this at all, a wine of experience and to experience, wholly unique. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Bera Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022

Walter Bera started the company in the 1970s with moscato grapes and it has always been a very important wine. His son Riccardo Bera tells that “this is pretty much the history of the winery when only a few guys were making moscato.” This is about the 1970s, along with Roman Dogliotti and others making this style of wine without the help of current technologies to keep the wines clean and safe from spoilage. Here in 2022 the wine is fresh off the charts and announcing its charm without equivocation. Approximately 130 g/L of RS, 6 of tA and five per cent alcohol. Again from 2022 tannin is involved, calling card of the vintage, not common but not impossible. Age some. They will drink well after four years and up to at least 10. Approximately 70,000 bottles made, half of what is made at Bera. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

Bera Moscato d’Asti DOCG Su Reimond 2022

Not a cru but a lieu-dit and literally below “Reimond’s house.” More concentration, doubling down on dry extract and also tannin because this is 2022. Aromatics are also intensified and yet so are the sugars but also the herbals in a soapy cilantro way. More idiosyncratic behaviour and specialized style. Not better than the classica, just different. Great curiosity and potential in any case. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Coppo 1892 Moscato d’Asti DOCG Moncalvina “Canelli” 2022

The name Canelli is the key because going forward it may be the only name on the label. In a short time “Moscato d’Asti” could very likely be stricken from the front of the bottle. A wine of heritage and the hardest to produce, here at 2.5 bars of pressure and topped with specially designed Diam corks. The naturally occurring sugar is 245 g/L with upwards of 6 g/L of TA and 5 percent alcohol. Perfectly balanced, true, precise and honest moscato. Or shall we say, “Canelli.” Drink for a year, pause for the next three and then for five to six more after that. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted January 2023

L’Armangia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Canelli 2017

Behold the moscato art meets science of Ignazio Giovine. Aromatics that temporarily disappeared into the Moscato d’Asti black hole are just now beginning to reemerge. The primary linalool beauty of years one and two went away and hid in the next 24-30 months but here they are again, albeit with new found interest and the beginnings of what naturally sweet moscato design is magically renowned to do. Now the peaches, apricots and nectarines, all them stone fruits and lemon segments are gelled, candied and crystallized. Renewed interest is the spark and imagination takes over, wonderment towards what might happen next. Will it be lemongrass tea, diesel emissions, petrol trails, strong scented terpenoids or cyclic ketones? Guesses are premium and another two years should answer the questions with real answers. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

L’Armangia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Canelli 2015

Ignazio Giovine’s 2015 has entered the zone where all great aged moscato from Canelli lands are want to go, that is to say their aromatics have re-emerged, been re-invented and replace or rather re-imagine what they were to begin with. The lemon factor runs high from this vintage, more verbena herbal than grassy and the green plant matter is exotic evergreen, oily and strong-scented, to touch and nose. Lots of petrol fuelling and vapour trailing in this ’15 and in many ways the secondary aromas are just the beginning. Still the best years are now up towards the nearing horizon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

L’Armangia Moscato d’Asti DOCG Canelli 1998

Perhaps not the finest 1998 bottle version of what was surely a stellar vintage for Canelli moscato with full on oxidative notes, caramelization and all the lemon tisane that can be imagined on a naturally sweetened fizzy Asti white wine. Noting the excellence of the acidity and the gingered-apple-lemon crème brûlée tells much about what a perfectly sound bottle would offer. If ever the chance might arise again but alas not because Ignazio Giovine says this is it. Ah well, a great showing nonetheless. Drink 2023. Tasted January 2023

L’Armangia Mesicaseu Vino Da Uve Stramature Bianco (375ml)

Aromatic perfume is a floral wave far exceeding that of Moscato d’Asti to little surprise considering the later harvest and serious fruit concentration. Lemon and rose hip tea, mandarin orange, cranberry and dried fruit, namely persimmon and apricot. Tannins, boozy flavours, more lemon and spices, spicy if crisp bite, herbals running like Amaro through veins. Tar and roses. Major curio dessert wine this one. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Moscato d’Asti DOCG Scrapona 2022

Andrea Costa sets the table. “Strevi is always different from the rest of the Moscato d’Asti areas. You can really see the difference.” Leaner aromatics while conversely bolder in mouthfeel and fatter of structure. Limestone soil makes for fine acidity that is characteristic of this southern area, closer to the Appenines. The palate is full, wide and of a breadth impressive indeed that acts as a great distraction from the level of sweetness. And then comes that 2022 tannin, because of Strevi more forceful than most. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Moscato d’Asti DOCG Scrapona 2017

Now going back five years and the winemaking no different then, just as it is still today. Though some 2017s are not yet showing a return to aging and development this from Strevi is just beginning its next level evolution and the fascination is upon us. Evergreen and petrol in cohorts, dried lemongrass and some sort of sweet and sour solvent. Grassy and chamomile plus the aromatic skin of “cedro,” aka fine strips of cedar bark. Great mouthfeel and persistence from what may be a vintage that will age quicker than some but for the next three-plus years it will do what we hope from aging moscato. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Moscato d’Asti DOCG Scrapona 2012

Now we are really getting somewhere with an older moscato that is not only holding well but just a few minutes in the glass and everything begins to change. This bottle is in great shape, the hue of moscato brilliant golden yellow and the aromatics shining just like the wine’s hue. Sweet straw and lemon curd, like aged Icewine from riesling and the vintage just must have provided great balance. Acidity remains perfectly in tact and the tact of this wine is it’s seamlessness, unwavering, still holding a perfect line. Bravo. Buonissimo. Life yet to live. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Matteo Sorìa Asti Brut DOCG NV Bric Prima Bella Sparkling Wine

Actually Extra Brut because there is only 1 g/L of residual sugar and in fact Matteo Sorìa is the only one making Asti Sparkling as bone dry. Maintains the aromatic profile of moscato from here in Castiglione Tinella but the profile is wholly, utterly and distinctly unique. A balanced Asti with slightly higher alcohol at 12 per cent though this is in reality 12.7 and yes, dry as the desert. Fennel seed, rosemary and yet never tart at all. Sees six to eight months on the lees with higher acidity at 6.3 g/L and this is what Sorìa is looking for. First disgorgement of this style and it has my attention. The only change going forward will be to keep extending the lees aging, albeit slowly, slowly. A reminder that it’s a tank method sparkling wine. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Matteo Sorìa Cascinetta Asti DOCG Cascinetta NV

The area was called Cascinetta and also the name of one of Matteo Sorìa’s brands. This is the sweeter sparkler at 140 g\L with 7 g\L of total acidity and 7.0 percent alcohol. Also non-vintage so therefore a mix of at least (but up to 15 per cent) two or three older vintages. All for the purpose of consistency in style and a consumers’ taste. Sugar is quite hidden, flavours are very stone fruit and acidity rules the day. Looong finish, so clean and quite precise for this style of fizzy wine. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Matteo Sorià

Matteo Sorìa Cascinetta Moscato d’Asti DOP

Bottled last week so yes this is about the freshest moscato you will ever find. Intensity of florals and aromatics off the charts and also here lower sulphites than most, with thanks to the newest of filtering technology used in the winery. Passes though 1.0, 0.65 and 0.45 micron filters and finishes with just 150 g\L of sulphites. The flowers and the stone fruit on the nose are matched by the white chalky-clay soil that determine what kind of moscato comes from Matteo Sorìa. Perfectly executed sweeter style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Matteo Soria Moscato d’Asti DOCG Soria 2012

Ten years old and bottled February 2013. A warm vintage with a great deal of rain and wow has this wine stood the test of time. The bubbles are preserved, it feels drier and the appearance is of a wine only a year or two old. Drier because the acidity is high and after 10 years that acidity hasn’t changed. Probably 120 g\L of sugar and the aromas are so beautifully preserved as well, though they have certainly morphed with some crème frâiche now, but also lemongrass, Vietnamese herbs and the beginning of petrol. Yet to express any solvents or waxiness. That may be coming, not soon but down the road. Incredible freshness. Magic. For now and it remains to be seen what can be gained from 10 more years of aging. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Cuvée Tresessanta Blanc De Blancs Pas Dosé 2018, Alta Langa DOCG

The alcohol is a bit high (at 13.5 per cent) due to “a bureaucratic problem,” explains President President Claudio Negrino, having obtained the appellative status a bit tardy and so the harvest was delayed, otherwise it would not have been called Alta Langa DOCG. Makes for more gastronomy in a few ways, even it it’s not perfectly suitable to be drunk own its own. All moscato, aged 36 months on the lees in the richest of possible moscato employed ways, like candied ginger, salty kewpie mayo and seasoned sushi rice in a bottle. Carries a metallic note as well, like viognier, but the acidity is really good. Also a golden hue and beneficial bitters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Moscato Secco 360 degrees Collezione Filarej, DOC Piemonte

The label depicts a description, of standing at the top of the unnamed hill though it may be affectionately called “Belvedere,” a beautiful panoramic view, 360 degrees, overlooking the village itself. Here a dry moscato that has been made at Alice bel Colle for more than 10 years, well before the DOC was created. Still perfumed with more linalool than a dry example would usually emit and the sugar here is 3-4 g\L, essentially insignificant as it pertains to this grape. Once again there is as much a viognier feeling gained as there is moscato and that is fully attributed to a strong aromatic profile predicated on phenolics which masks the alcohol (at 14 per cent). Clearly a wine that benefitted from expert temperature control during fermentation to capture perfumes and avoid bitterness. A style of wine on the rise, modern and contemporary. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Acqui Secco DOCG Monte Ridolfi Lupus Glorioso 2020

A dry version of brachetto and so an agreement they would be called simply “Acqui,” as opposed to “Brachetto d’Acqui,” which is the sweet version. Not a rule but a marketing choice made by the members of the Consorzio. Avoids consumer misconception. Again the aromatics are captured despite the dry factor and like the moscato concept there is a modernity and a sense of innovation involved. Red fruit with all the right moves, black cherry and just that fine little bit of bitterness from the stone. Fineness of tannin and long on the finish with good natural sweetness and impressive balance. Simple and not complex but quite satisfying. All stainless and some concrete tanks for a good level of freshness though interesting in that there is no real salumi or meaty skin muskiness. Really clean and focused. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Dolcetto d’Acqui DOC 360 Degrees Collezione Coste Di Muiran 2021

Not a wine of a single vineyard dolcetto but from a specific area out of which grapes are chosen. Bit of a funny barnyard aroma mixed with very ripe strawberry with some musky fruit skin leatheriness. Much lighter than Dogliani versions and yet also fruitier than those from the Monferrato Hills further west from Alice bel Colle. Smells like pizza dough in action, still a bit raw yet getting somewhere. Also mulberry bush, Ribena and yet good acidity keeping the grip and also balance in play. Solid and characterful, yet another wine of gastronomy. Fine bitterness upon the chewy finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

With Claudio Negrini, President – Cantina Alice bel Colle

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Barbera d’Asti DOCG 360 Degrees Collezione Al Casò 2021

Al Casò faces south-southeast heading from Alice bel Colle towards Nizza, very close, on the right, of vineyards somewhere between young and old, right in the sweet spot. Lions of cherry here, a variegation of ripenesses, in reds and green but mostly concentration. Selected from many small parcels, 95 per cent collected by hand. Fermentations are kept separate and blended after. Expressive of barbera’s acidity but also stringent behaviour, kept in check though surely present in this wine. There is a real presence and persistence and so the wine improves with time spent getting to know its grippy charms. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG Alix 2019

The flagship red for the cooperative Cantina Alice be Colle and almost counterintuitive because there is immediate brightness and effusive behaviour straight away. Alix was the ancient name of the village and there were at the time two roads running up and down the hill that formed an “X.” As in going to the X, to the village, now called Alice bel Colle. Now up to 15 per cent alcohol though it wears it well and the aromatics are surprisingly open-knit. Intensely or more so the kind of tart that is truly implosive, reflexive and recoiling. Wood is all about spice and structure, not overwhelming though unavoidably in charge. Ample purity which bequeathes originality and in the end a thank you to the calcareous-quartz soils. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2023

Cantina Alice Bel Colle Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG Le Casette Di Alice NV

The cousin of Moscato Casette, like-minded in sweetness and purpose though brachetto’s key ingredient is more particular, from strawberry to rose, depending on the vintage. An herbal vintage which doesn’t necessarily choose one over the other but brings in the leaves of both. Acidity is maintained and freshness guaranteed. This is quite open and lively with a scrape of orange zest that brightens the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Bera Brut Alta Langa DOCG And DOP 2016

Disgorged in late November from a wine that has been made the same way since the 1980s, 70 per cent chardonnay and (30). Walter Bera’s father Sisto had been growing pinot noir and chardonnay going back even further so he was one of the pioneers, like Carlo Gancia. The ’16 spent 48 months on the lees and this is the last bottle of this disgorgement. Grown on white chalk in the Langhe so yes there is some lightning in here with just 4 g/L of dosage, vintage related but that’s the median point overall. So much flavour, with mid-palate and structure, yet round and so getable. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Bera Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2021

“Dolcetto has been in our roots for a very long time, on a very historical piece of our land,” tells Riccardo Bera, from a Neive vineyard, once planted as the king of the Langhe as the most important grape. It fetched more money than nebbiolo. It was currency. Today it’s the easiest wine, low in structure and acidity, but also austerity and it’s the perfect match for local food. This ’21 smells so primary, as if it were from the tank and yet it’s more than a year old. Incredibly fresh, bursting with red fruit of every ilk, flesh and size. Supremely aromatic and Riccardo’s brother Umberto is the new gen oenologist keeping the old traditions alive. A week on skins, stainless steel only, some tannin that is Neive but not nebbiolo austerity at all. Perfect mid-weight dolcetto. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG La Lena 2019

Lena was the name of Riccardo Bera’s great-grandmother, as in Sisto’s mother. Aged in 25 hL casks, the fruit coming from Neive, same area as the dolcetto. Actually Gaia Principe, halfway between the villages of Neive and Barbaresco. Just fresh enough to stay happy and healthy even while temperatures rise and fruit concentrates exponentially. The structure here separates this from other barbera while the wood never dominates. Well thought out, considered, never hastily conceptualized or actualized but made well to deliver persistence and more than ample amenability. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

With Riccardo Bera

Bera Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2019

The western cru close to Neive village, exposition to the west, from the lower section at 350m. Planted 15 years ago with the intention to make classic “Villages” Barbaresco but the fruit from 2016 changed the family’s perspective. That vintage was the first cru label and here from the fourth consecutive the refinement time is 24 months in grandi botti, part Slovenian and part Austrian oak. Tannic to be sure yet not quite what you’d call austere. Greatly structured wine and still far from readiness. “That’s the young baby we’re talking about,” says Riccardo. “It’s the cru that surprises me.” Great aromatic presence and fine chalky liquidity running through. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Rabajà 2015

Rabajà faces southwest and this fruit comes right from the heart, only bottled as Riserva. Vines in and around 40 years of age and three years spent in Grandi Botti. Aromatically you intuit glycerin and as a Barbaresco there is clearly more acumen and experience from plants that first gave this wine life out of the 2011 vintage. Tannins are even more compact than Seraboella, trying to expand but they just keep weighing down and won’t fully relent. Layering of red fruit and they are beautiful layers but each one carries tannin of ilk upon ilk. This is Barbaresco of sapidity as a quotient of acids and pH working in cohorts. The palate attack is quite fantastical. Give this another year. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted January 2023

Bera Barbaresco Riserva DOCG Basarin 2012

Basarin is home to much older vines, upwards of 65 years-old and is one of the steepest vineyards in Barbaresco. A snake of a vineyard and very challenging to work. South exposure, warm for sure and a soil composition higher in chalk than clay but not too dissimilar to Rabajà. Herbaceous notes come from Basarin and “when I was young, every time I went to the tank I had this feeling,” tells Riccardo Bera. The first vintage out of which the tannins are nearly resolved and yet the fruit persists in near whole and perfect freshness. A nebbiolo in wonderful condition and while the vintage was hot there might have been a different result. This is almost, not quite but nearly ready, as far as optimum or perfect windows are concerned. Liquorice here, a touch of tar and well, “most of this job for us is to start with the best grapes you can. The quality is in the vineyard. A good winemaker can keep the 10. A five you cannot fix.” Ten it is. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted January 2023

Bera Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2017

From this vintage the fruit is not 100 per cent Bera and just shortly thereafter the Bera family purchased a portion of the famous Monforte cru. This is the first and only trial vintage before the purchase but the focus was on acquiring a piece. Straight away the dry and brushy vintage while some red fruit freshness persists. Some austerity yet starting, to advance, mature and soften. The reconciliation and full recovery may be a year or two away but this nebbiolo is showing the signs. Quality precursor to what is coming form the new plantation and Bera’s full control of their own Mosconi Barolo destiny. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Coppo 1892 Brut Rosé Clelia Coppo Metodo Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualità 2019

Assemblage of chardonnay with only five per cent pinot noir in a cuvée named for Luigi Coppo’s grandmother. Just five per cent but red fruit really defines this traditional method sparkling wine. Red currants and a hint of strawberry, sweetly leafy and mildly tart. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG

Coppo 1892 Monteriolo 2020, DOC Piemonte

Mainly stainless steel with 10 per cent barriques. Reductive and yet wildly exotic, so much so the protective shell can’t seem to hold back the aromatics. Of minerals and elements, tropical fruit and wet stone. Turns flinty or rather encourages this note, followed by lit paraffin and finally a hit of lemon pith plus fine bitters. Everything in moderation, subtlety and restraint. The dream of generations continues. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Coppo 1892 Monteriolo 2015, DOC Piemonte

Chardonnay at seven years is extraordinary, from the limestone and clay of Castelnuovo Calcea with all the hints of the early days now emerging into the secondary machinations so wished for in Nizza-Monferatto area chardonnay. Of solvents and camphor, paraffin and flintiness stretched elastic for miles and miles. Structured wine of sapidity which is once again the correct and beautiful way for chardonnay to complete its raison d’être. That and freshness so persistent. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Coppo 1892 Chardonnay Monteriolo Riserva Della Famiglia 2017, DOC Piemonte

A warm and dry vintage for concentration to be guaranteed but looking forward to 2022 the lack of winter snow and spring/summer rain will make for a much more difficult proposition. This is not only beautiful as an aged chardonnay but also impressive in its Riserva style concentration. Takes the waxiness, phenolic meets solvent tonic and citrus to an entirely next level. Chardonnay and 2017 make for an ideal and lasting marriage in Nizza Monferrato. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Coppo Barbera d’Asti Nizza DOCG Pomorosso 2019

A Barbera d’Asti from the highest level from Nizza where the soils are key, of fine and friable clay with sparkling mineral content above a layer of nearly pure though porous limestone to raise barbera no other Asti area is able to procure. Castelnuovo Calcea and Vinchio bring the grip and stage presence, mainly from old vineyards. The Pomorosso is a cuvée and while structurally speaking this is a very serious wine, there is a portion from near Agliano Terme that brings a roundness and ultimately balance. The components of acidity and tannin are strongest but they do not dominate as might be expected. There is a juiciness and fine if sharp red fruit presence part plum and part red berry plume. Pomegranate shares the spotlight and this is a very generous vintage. Surprisingly accessible. Agreeable and yet age worthy to. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

Coppo Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza DOCG Riserva Di Famiglia 2015

Notably evolved yet right in that secondary zone where things have become really interesting. Pine forest, limestone and espresso, a veritable caffè of barbera with juicy black cherries and finishing dark chocolate. A vintage where the wood is really felt and these are the final days of excellence. Thank goodness for top barbera acidity. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

With Davide Ghiga

Azienda Agricola Ghiga Enrico Dolcetto 2021, Monferrato DOC

The first of the Ghiga red grapes to be harvested and here from Monferrato the alcohol is still coming in at 13 per cent. Meat scented, a salumi skin but mostly freshness because this zone is still one of the lucky ones. Fruit is fleshy but again the skins are so much a part of determining style; musky plum and minerals cut by an almost raspberry tang. Lovely but complex dolcetto. Liking the length here. Production is approximately 2,000 bottles per year. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Azienda Agricola Ghiga Enrico Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2021

Barbera from a very particular terroir that manages freshness really well because the soils of Costigiole and the winds that come in from the mountains create temperature wings and a maintenance of cooling acidity. A world away from barbera raised in Alba, here at 13.5 percent alcohol and no wood involved in the aging process. Fruit at the centre with great Scott acidity in the range of six to 6.5 g\L. Drinks in many ways like the dolcetto but there is more depth and even some tarry character involved. The vines are 40-50 years of age and it is both concentration and intensity that are provided. Also herbal, like Amaro and in the end a balanced effort. This is the wine for Bollito Misto. Truly. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Azienda Agricola Ghiga Enrico Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG Dodici Lune 2019

In Superiore barbera gets special wood treatment, now and since 2016 with two foudres, two barriques and one tonneaux sitting like little Buddhas in a small aging room dedicated to this wine. The rest in those vessels is for one year and another in bottle. The wines are racked in tank to make the blend, usually in June or July. Fruit from the zone (località) of San Michele in Costigiole d’Asti, as always and one of the coolest barbera zones pretty much anywhere in Piemonte. Superiore is a 20-25 per cent selection of the best barbera grapes and the quality in terms of concentration but also purity is evident in this fine vintage of this fine wine. Acidity always high, especially from this place and “this is our style right now,” tells Davide Ghiga. Around 2,000-2,300 bottles annually. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Rosato Acqui DOCG Ma Ré 2021

Ma Ré as in Marenco and also “Ro-Sé.” An experimental Rosé (third try) labeled Acqui which under the new understanding puts it on the drier side and spends a maximum of 48 hours on the skins. This puts it in similar vinification methodology to the sweeter Brachetto d’Acqui. That said fermentative temperatures don’t need to be cold because immediate gratification is the point of the exercise. Dry and salty, 2-3 g\L of RS, very tisane, namely bergamot, then pomegranate, orange and rose petal. Really nice Rosato. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Moscato Secco Ma Mù 2021, DOC Piemonte

Ma Mù (which carries a Champagne story), is local dialect to speak about the grape moscato and this is also experimental in that dry iterations are neither traditional nor normal. Yet here we are with the grape and the sugar fermented away to finish at 13 per cent alcohol. Barrel fermented on the lees for six months, made to last, to age a few years. Able to capture and maintain the origins of varietal aromatics and so the result is almost pinot gris in temperament, a little bit salty and simultaneously white floral. Citrus is all juice and the terpenes stay in control. This is the second vintage though the first was problematic due to reduction. This 2021 is clean and precise. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Barbera d’Asti DOCG Bassina 2021

Classic and traditional, never a thought of barriques, not even botti but only stainless steel and concrete. Modern and yet big enough to speak the language of red wine that thinks on its feet and walks a confident walk. “We have two advantages that makes better barbera than 10 years ago,” tells Andrea Costa. “One is climate which maintains acidity and the second is how we think better in both the vineyard and in the cellar.” Expressively juicy and bright, with roundness and mouth filling qualities. What we like to call generous and perfectly without astringencies. Clean as a whistle. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG Ciresa 2019

The Superiore ages in botti for 18 months and the expression is much bolder, sanguine, accented by a number of herbs and spices. Caper and dill, tobacco, pine tree, balsamico, black cherry and persistent in its intensity. Needs air and agitation because the wood and the time have conspired for a bit of reduction that must be encouraged to leave the glass. It will if you have the patience and you will because there are charms and structural components worth waiting for. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Barbera d’Asti Nizza Riserva DOCG Zana

Zana is a cru in Castiglione (recently mapped out by Alesssandro Masnaghetti), high in elevation and the barbera here from Nizza ages 18 months in barriques and tonneaux. Does not show its wood so readily and in fact the fruit aromatics are quite pronounced. The air and breathability from elevation definitely help to keep the windows open in a barbera that should by all accounts be closed and unwilling. Not the case as this sky brightens and the wine shares its charms. Good structure here because of high ranking acidity leaning part sweet and part sour into the tannins. More singularity from Marenco, this time for Nizza. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Albrarossa Piemonte DOC 2019

Aged in the larger (15 hL) barrel, this time from a variety that has just one or two biotypes. Bottom line is that albarossa is dark matter, tarry, like heavy fuel and the wood only serves to accent what’s already there. Like petit sirah but in Piemonte, or perhaps malbec/tannat from Cahors but truthfully it’s what it is, of its own accord. But acidity here is all Monferrato meets Strevi and this kind of cimmerian red wine is an own character and style. Great acidity here that gives barbera a run for its money. A bit dill pickle and peppery reductive so give it some air. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted January 2023

Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG Pineto 2022

Pineto, the name of the church across the way. “This wine just needs people to open the bottle and drink it,” not to compare or think about anything else in the world. “It’s so unique” says Andrea Costa. Less muscle as compared to moscato, some tannin aka tisane from a day on skins and just the way of the grape. The grapes were heavier in 2022 because of the skins and thus the tannic sensation is gained. Strawberry and orange zest, cranberry and basilico. An ideal brachetto right here. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Good to go!

godello

Moscato vineyard, Castiglione Tinella

Twitter: @mgodello

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Nebbiolo Prima Previews: Barolo DOCG 2019, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 and Retrospectives

Apr11

Nebbiolo in Alba, Piemonte

What makes Barolo so special? We know of its great aging potential but how do we taste at an anteprima and decisively determine which will go the distance, while forecasting that others will presumably fail? What are the rules of qualification with so many intangibles involved? Well it begins, as it must, with location. The Langhe, plural form of Langa, a Piedmontese way of saying “a long and low-lying hill.” Reference to an area that lies to the south and east of the Tanaro River in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti. All of the Barolo growing area can described in a knowable and specific way, even if the morphology changes from north to south and west to east. Drawing a diagonal line from the northeast down to the southwest can define the two soil epochs of Barolo; from between Roddi and Grinzane through Castiglione Falletto down through Barolo and to Novello. This line will separate the epochs of soil, the Tortonian from the Serravallian, both of which were formed millions of years ago. The Barolo on either side will not be the same, that much we know to be true, but make no mistake. All nebbiolo raised and produced as Barolo need time in the bottle.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

Try not to discriminate too much between the T and the S, the west and the east. They are all sisters and brothers, kin cut from similar cloth, of shared DNA and are always family. The western Tortonian soils of La Morra and Barolo may be less compact, more fertile and their Barolo needing less time to shed astringencies caused by formidable tannin. As a general rule Serralunga d’Alba, Monforte and Castiglione Falletto might hold more Serravallian cards with terroir that is dense and compressed, causing more structure, higher alcohol and body. In the end Barolo is Barolo. Concentrate more on the subtleties of the classified cru, not to choose the excellence of one over another but to seek understanding in the adjunctive mentions and the wines associated with each locality. Associated to each cru are the producers, of varying pedigrees and successes – here is where we the pursuers uncover the truth and heart of the Barolo matter.

Godello with the Sommeliers of Nebbiolo Prima 2023

Barolo’s official DOC recognition happened in 1966 and in 1980 the DOCG followed. With each passing vintage the most common talking points and focus of both journalist and sommelier investigations has become individual vineyard names, a.k.a. sorì, cru or Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (MGA). There are more than 100 officially recognized MGAs in Barolo. At the most recent Nebbiolo Prima 40 journalists from around the world tasted hundreds of Barolo, primarily by way of a sommelier-poured, blind-tasting setting. As it pertains to those daily sessions, the tastings were organized first by village and then cru from each of the 11 villages home to their own famous holdings. Launched in 1996 and in 2010 re-baptized as Nebbiolo Prima, this is the international preview of the new releases of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero.

One of Alba’s most traditional antipasti and must supper at feeding holes is Ristorante Lalibera ~ Carne crudo along with six top Langhe producers and life was Grande!

In La Morra the MGAs include Arborina, Boiolo, Bricco Luciani, Brunate, Capalot, Casa Nere, Castagni, Cerequio, Gattera, Gianchi, La Serra, Marcenasco, Rocche dell’Annunziata, San Giacomo, Serradenari, Silio and Torriglione. Barolo’s are Albarella, Boschetti, Bricco delle Viole, Buon Padre, Cannubi, Castellero, Coste Di Vergne, Fossati, Monrobiolo Di Bussia and Sarmassa. In Castiglione Falletto there are Altenasso, Bricco Boschis, Brunella, Monprivato, Parussi, Pira, Rocche Di Castiglione, Scarrone and Villero. In Serralunga d’Alba the cru include Boscareto, Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia, Briccolina, Broglio, Cerretta, Gabutti, Gianetto, Lazzarito, Marenca, Margheria, Meriame, Ornato, Parafada, Prapò, Sorano and Vignarionda. Monforte d’Alba holds the vineyards of Bricco San Pietro, Bussia, Bussia Dardi Le Rose, Bussia Vigna Fantini, Castelletto, Castelletto Persiera, Castelletto Vigna Pressenda, Ginestra, Vigna Sorì Ginestra, Gramolere, Le Coste Di Monforte, Mosconi, Perno, Pressenda, Rocche Di Castelletto and Treturne. From Novello there are Panerole, Ravera and Sottocastello Di Novello. Verduno holds Monvigliero and San Lorenzo, Roddi is home to Bricco Ambrogio and Raviole is within Grinzane Cavour.

I Tajarin in Alba is a rite of passage. This is the beautiful “40 tuorli” al sugo di salsiccia at Osteria Arco ~ Paired perfectly with Piedmontese wine people and their wines

The 2019 vintage is a special one and though it has been described as “conventional,” were there an argument over its merits, well that might lead people to think someone is having a really bad week. When bright, effusive and fresh nebbiolo are conversely met with the hardened walls of formidable structure – could this be the making of a perfect storm? Pay deep attention to these wines and feel the enormity of passion, intuit some immediate gratification and realize great potential for longevity. These 2019s are Barolo with every bit of necessary stuffing to age, not unlike 2016 and yet so many examples are blessed with a piquancy of beautiful, pure and finessed fruit. Sure it can be a challenge to taste hundreds over a few days period of time but thank goodness these wines are filled with so much fruit. It was a pleasure and indeed a privilege to partake in tasting and assessing this vintage. The 200-plus tasting notes below tell the vintage story, or at least my interpretation of it.

With Ana Schneider

The opportunity to taste so many Barolo and pay visits with dozen of producers was made possible by the organization of Albeisa and the leadership of President Marina Marcarino. The Consorzio Albeisa was founded to promote the wines of the Alba area to the world. Twenty seven years of Nebbiolo Prima has acted as the official international preview for the nebbiolo of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero, “with the objective of heightening and promoting the winegrowing heritage of the Langhe and Roero, lands beloved and known throughout the world.” During this January week one of my life’s greatest pleasures was to meet and converse with Anna Schneider from the Instituto per la Protazione Sostenibile delle Piante ~ Schneider presented microvinicazione findings with ancient Piedmontese grape varieties from the Cantina Sperimentale for the Università di Torino, Dipartimento di Scienze Agrarie, Forestali e Alimentari dell’Università degli Studi di Torino and Albeisa Wines. Next order of business is to find funding so that Anna can build a certification program for heritage vineyards in Piemonte in a similar fashion to what Rosa Kruger has done with the Old Vine Project in South Africa. Though some farmers and producers will insist that nebbiolo no longer thrives after 40-plus years there are always exceptions to rules and also differences of opinion. Not to mention other grape varieties that do in fact succeed on their over forty old vines. There is life after 40 and Anna knows this.

Barolo Retrospectives

This 27th edition of Nebbiolo Prima was a special one because it finally brought writers and producers back together in Alba. In 2021 and 2022 there were no anteprime for international guests. Keep in mind that not all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, for a myriad of reasons and so consider this report as a relevant snapshot of those that did. Return to these pages at a future time to seek out reporting on the nebbiolo of Barbaresco and Roero. As for Elio Altare, Azelia, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico, Elvio Cogno, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Corino, Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Massolino, Alfredo Prunotto, Rivetto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino, Mauro Sebaste, Aldo e Riccardo Seghesio, Mauro Veglio and Roberto Voerzio, here’s to looking forward to having visits with them and their wines. Alas my Barolo notes from Nebbiolo Prima are now transcribed and here for the taking. There are 229 reviews in total; 184 Barolo DOCG 2019, 19 Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017, 14 Barolo DOCG 2009, two Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007 and 10 assorted library wines.

Albeisa Wines

Barolo DOCG 2019

Bricco Maiolica Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Diano d’Alba Contandin 2019

Immediately recognizable as pure, authentic and honest Barolo. A certain sense of nebbiolo ubiquity but more than that, up and into a realm occupied by some experienced and aging vines, classic fermentation and elévage. A Diano d’Alba concern for respect and a vintage sweetness in fruit meeting high acidity that makes this a perfect Barolo for five to maximum 10 years. Respect. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Carlina Barolo DOCG Castello 2019, Grinzane Cavour

A bit of volatility off the top, high tonality, pitch and voice but also a percentage of overripe fruit in this scattered nebbiolo. Tart and crunchy, acids and dried notes in fruit and herbs not quite seeing eye to eye. Some grit here. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Cappellano Di Veglio Luigi Barolo DOCG Raviole 2019, Grinzane Cavour

Calm, mature, settled and knowable nebbiolo, a Barolo made with an eye in all directions from a producer that knows many things. At the top of which is the natural world and yet this carries the feels of an example that is equally estate as it is place. I’ve a mind to believe the other wines made here are very similar is style, stature and disposition. Acids and tannins both run high and in charge. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Agricola Fratelli Broccardo SSA Barolo DOCG I Tre Pais 2019, Più comuni

In the ways of bright, airy, high and mighty nebbiolo comes this Barolo of no particular mention of a few communes gathered together and set into ubiquitous stone. Tart, salty, thin-skinned, lightly pressed and minty cool. A savoury and saline example for food only in the early days of its tenure. Acids trump tannins at every step. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abbona Di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

A nebbiolo of weight that resides down below, bracketed at the lower rungs of the overall ladder, fruit mature and maximized where ripenesses gather. Fulsome and brooding, acids also running amok, keeping the beat though fruit lays low. No rise or tempo changes on the horizon. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Grimaldi Bruna Barolo DOCG Camilla 2019, Più comuni

Fine if middle road taken Barolo, surely knowable as well kept and properly raised nebbiolo, yet something so simple. A good weight and classic temperament no doubt, heady aromas of roses and tar, structural aspects in synch, a gathering of fruit here and there layered with purpose, by intention, for right and just reason. Architectural and respectful nebbiolo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cordara Ornella Barolo DOCG Debutto 2019, Più comuni

A combination seen, nosed and tasted many times before, that being high acid intensity and mature fruit. A factor of muscle memory, of creating Barolo from nebbiolo without allowing for change. That said this is a very youthful wine and time will be kind because the large wood aging will slow down the fruit and reign in the volatility. As a mature Barolo it will drink with proper tradition. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Francone Di Francone Fabrizio E C. Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

The immediacy elicits a nod or two in knowing something is correct but also respectful from this nebbiolo. Something traditional but also accepting off technology and change. The fruit is variegated, at once mature but then also effusive. The acids are forceful though in two parts and one side is restrained. Overall there is a true Barolo feel that speaks to an amalgamation of good vineyards processed by a forward thinking wine team. Results in high quality done right. Not just correct but proper and promising. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Angela 2019, Più comuni

Volatile off the charts and dried fruit. Hard acid and tannins dry out like roses in a hot desert wind. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Parusso Armando Di Parusso F.Lli Barolo DOCG Perarmando 2019, Più comuni

Definite Ribena and tart red fruit straight away. Dextromethorphan stirred into sauvage. Chorizo too. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Pio 2019, Più comuni

Closed aromatics, needs air and agitation, not reductive but unrelenting. Roses come first, brushy herbs next, rosemary mainly and then the fennel. Quite a taut, arid and grippy nebbiolo, traditional to be very sure and needing years to resolve. Will always be rustic and loyal to years of repetition. In this instance that is perfectly great. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sarotto Barolo DOCG Briccobergera 2019, Più comuni

Brighter and more of a hello take a look at what I’ve got to show nebbiolo with an aroma like rose petals swimming in rosewater. Some volatile grip behind the pretty secrets yet the two seem to be working in cahoots so keep on going. Palate takes the appropriate next step and wells with a pool of red fruit, submerged cap macerated for what feels like a few weeks or possibly more. Creates texture with some creaminess and though wood lends a few extra drops of vanilla there is an overall feel of integration and a gift-wrapped result. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Spirito Agricolo Ballarin Barolo DOCG Tre Ciabot 2019, Più comuni

Off-putting if auspicious start with an aromatic wave of greens and reds, ripenesses mixed and volatile compounds circling. Hard and brittle tannins will never abate. The wine is what it is. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG Zinzasco 2019, Più comuni

Zinzasco translates as “gypsy” and is actually a Barolo named for the trails that link the family’s holdings both in Verduno and La Morra. A mix of vineyards from the two communes provides the fruit that sees a 25 day soak followed by 24 months in a mix of grandi botti and tonneaux. All about aromatics, high and mighty ones with a wave of florals, by lilies and lilacs. Fine and of a presence that’s just accessible enough in terms of nebbiolo and Barolo. Feels like a restaurant list bottling, classic and affordable. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Vigneti Luigi Oddero E Figli Barolo DOCG 2019, Più comuni

Reticence but lights are on ahead. Extremely youthful with sharp acids and biting tannin. Needs so much time but there is fine lightning fruit waiting to flesh and release. Still this will always be a nebbiolo of excitability, unchecked and unkempt aggression. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vite Colte Barolo DOCG Paesi Tuoi 2019, Più comuni

Dark and brooding fruit with firm and grippy structural comports. The tannins are admittedly a bit gritty and the overall feel here is a seriously grippy wine though one can’t help but feel that time will bring about both resolution and ruggedly handsome features. Muscular yet in control if just a bit gangly and unkempt in youth. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2019, Roddi

Fruit ripeness and maturity noted off the top in aromas that recall liquorice, dried roses and braised fennel. Aromatic but an evolved sensation translating directly onto a palate that delivers more of the same. The parts that prop and lift are solid and do much the same work. So yes everything is on the same page for a nebbiolo as Barolo from the slope that is Bricco Ambrogio in Roddi that will drink just like this for three to four years. Catch it in this early-ish window. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Lodali Walter Barolo DOCG Bricco Ambrogio 2019, Roddi

High tonality juxtaposed against a backdrop of maturity puts this right into the pool occupied by Barolo for drinking young and a must with food. Then again there are some gangly and gurgling tannins that need resolution so the best bet would be to wait two years and drink for two-plus more after that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Verduno

Bel Colle Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Youthful and as a consequence quite reserved on the nose. Nothing musty though not forthright neither so time and fortitude are required to eek, coax and pull out the charm. That Monvigliero speciality awaits with a current scrape of orange zest and some other red citrus that teases and indicates what is likely to come next. That would be flesh that hangs on solid if nimble bones from a cru that gifts, given time is granted. That is a must because today’s quiet will beget tomorrow’s happiness. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted March 2023

Bosio Family Estates Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Hard not to see, nose, taste and assess this as classically Verduno with layered if compact assets to speak of Monvigliero with kindness. A skilled winemaking joint between mature fruit and solid architectural bones for Barolo of near immediacy. A year or two will bring everything together but this is not a nebbiolo in need of resilience or renaissance. It will always impress and do so for a very long time. Crunchy then chewy. This is the shit for the cru. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castello Di Verduno Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Certainly tows the Monvigliero in Verduno line with classic ripeness meeting winemaking restraint, though this does seem to tip in the direction of the over, not the under. That is to say there is some mature fruit. Notes that inch into the leathery and the drying. As such the chasm widens and the volatility stands out but the combination of reserve and grip will see some genuine improvement over time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Morra Diego Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Higher and brighter for Verduno Monvigliero with lighting strikes from out of the acid skies and fruit strung really tight. A serious wine that does not smile and likely will not for years to come. Not an ideal balance now – yet still there is great hope because of place within place. Qualified Barolo in any case and will have its moment in the sun. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2019

Classically formulated, iterated and capitulated Monvigliero out of the commune of Verduno. The fruit has found optimum fruition and so the phenolic gain is both positive and proper. Matched well are the bones by extension from karst that sets the tone for grip while the seasoning is so very saline-mineral and white pepper. Beautiful Barolo in so many respects and yes, Monvigliero is a really fine cru leading to many fine wines. There is more gravity to this tannic situation out of which a firm handshake guarantees a deal struck to satisfy our wishes. This is tops and will drink with distinction for years to come. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Burlotto Comm.G.B. Barolo DOCG Acclivi 2019

Ubiquitous Verduno here in nebbiolo, a step up from Langhe to be sure but surely the base kind of wine for Barolo. Hopefully some young Monvigliero fruit and perhaps just a precursor to the possibilities of these Verduno vines becoming grander and grander over time. In drink now terms this is very good nebbiolo in fact if I were sitting down with a plate of Tajarin tonight I’d happily have a glass. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2019

Not sure if San Lorenzo di Verduno elicits this sort of response to nebbiolo but the lift and anti-gravitas in this example sure sets it apart form Monvigliero. Quite tart and full of tang, tannins a bit gritty and angular. Needs two years and the wood has to melt, especially the high vanillin factor that stands out right now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pelassa Daniele Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo Di Verduno 2019

A much more accomplished and finer iteration of San Lorenzo di Verduno to be sure, with a better connection between ripenesses and the way they stack but also layer. Tones run a just a bit high but the brightness and juicy fruit is well managed, and also appreciated. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Morra

Cascina Del Monastero Barolo DOCG Annunziata 2019

Quite mature in terms of fruit with a red berry to mandarin orange positioning and yet the structural parts are gritty-chalky, less experienced and not quite in synch. Remembering how young and precocious a wine like this can be is important because what notes ring out today will surely change, perhaps not tomorrow but a day or two later. Keep the possibilities in mind and imagine what might be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina La Foia 2019

Welcome to the first of La Morra with Arborina and its deep inhalant aromatic depth like few other Barolo. The cru-commune relationship depicts very serious nebbiolo that does not so much brood as it does weigh down with gravity, especially with the site specific La Foia. That said there is an orange zest and pomegranate feeling from this fruit to juxtapose and lift so that the weight of structure will not keep this Barolo down. This is certainly a style and one appreciated by many with its subtle swarthiness and pushing limits of what is pure in the arena of clarity. There is no denying the honesty and interpretation of soil. That is abundantly clear. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

No two Barolo are the same, not even when raised and nurtured from the same cru, though there must be some similarities involved. La Foia and more general Arborina does in fact deliver the juxtaposition of density and lift and so when opposites attract there is great success. This achieves said goal by combining great ripeness with swarthy lift and does so with beauty more than brawn. Hard not to be wooed by a wine that acts this natural and in a way that says it could be nothing else. The thread runs through and the concept seems clear. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Curto Marco Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

Bovio Gianfranco Di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Arborina 2019

Same Arbonina flesh and La Morra bones yet here a bit leaner and less weighty. The acidity runs higher and so volatility sets the pace though that gently swarthiness of Arborina is absent from the mix. Fine and grippy Barolo if just a bit too tart and angular to be blessed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Camparo Barolo DOCG Boiolo 2019

Here from Boiolo in La Morra the nebbiolo is stretched yet not elastic, linear and pulled as taut as it gets, like skate laces for full stability. No real joy here I’m afraid and while young Barolo is rarely about that ideal there must be great fruit and seamless structure to make it work. This carries just a fraction of both. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Spirito Agricolo Ballarin Barolo DOCG Bricco Rocca 2019

Bricco Rocca surely gains solar radiation from a fully exposed hillside because this 2019 Barolo exhibits all the ripeness that would have been possible in this vintage. Long, low and slowly capitulated phenolics for an already wise and mature nebbiolo that will drink well for a good number of years. We’re not talking decades but one to be sure. Tannins are a bit rustic but they do the trick and put this in good steading. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mario Di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

Quite closed and after tasting a few dozen 2019 Barolo it’s actually quite surprising that more are not like this Brunate. Or perhaps that is the cru in this vintage (and others) because time is a factor and so much of it will be needed to see a nebbiolo like this find its way. The bones, weight and substance are all there with potential running high, if at the moment desperately dry. Like to see this agin in five years time. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sara Cortese, Mauro Molino Wines

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG 2019

Perhaps because it was such a top quality growing season yet it feels like the classico Barolo was not compromised by all the best fruit being partitioned to the cru Baroli. Three La Morra vineyards make substantial contributions, including Béri and Conca planted in 1982. Molino’s La Morra was unaffected by the September hail that fell on other parts, including Bricco Luciani within the commune. Big French casks were used, of 50 HL for 18 months. As silky smooth as this is also glycerol of texture, fruit naturally sweet, shiny and fortified, likely as much as this cuvée has even shown. Elegant, suave and the sort of tannins that scroll across the palate. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Bricco Luciani 2019

The Bricco Luciani vineyard was in fact struck by the hail of September 5th to result in the necessity of reducing yields. The cru is situated south of the Molino property with a southeast exposure and its important fruit sees a mix of big barrel and also barriques. There were only 4,100 bottles made of this most elegant and perfumed nebbiolo that while some smaller wood brings an element of unresolved early seasoning, well the matters of finesse and haute style are unrelenting in their override. This young Barolo is a wine of two parts but given five to seven years it will transmogrify into something spiritual, with the potential for telling a religious Bricco Luciani story. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted January 2023

Vietti Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

Funky off the top with cheese rind and a note of reduction. Big and ripe but needs plenty of air and preferably agitation to realize the charm. Which is in fact the case though truth is the tannins are brutal and will likely never be what we would call unrelenting. Fortunately so much fruit rides along. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enzo Boglietti Barolo DOCG Brunate 2019

On the lighter and less brooding side of La Morra’s Brunate with red fruit in a tart berry meets citrus kind of way. Like raspberries and pomegranates with all the greens involved, rosemary and dried fennel too. Tight wine, neither harsh nor astringent but rustic and so very young. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Marilena Barolo DOCG Capalot 2019

Not exactly an open-knit and giving example of La Morra Brunate but there is surely a skeletal framework for which the fruit to hang upon, take its time to work through the kinks and flesh out. There is no doubt that the future will be much brighter than the present for a nebbiolo that must be given time to figure it all out. Seeing the forest through the trees is key because cask and structure are barriers and will be for these first five-plus years. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alberto Burzi

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG Capalot Vecchie Viti 2019

High level ripeness noted straight away so despite the omnipresence of tannin there is surely a drink relatively sooner rather than later aspect to this Barolo. The intensity of tart flavours will not be denied and finding the right food partner is seriously key. There must be protein and also fat. Salt as well. It’s simple math. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot 2019

High quality emits and rigs form fruit destined to meet structure for classicism in Barolo. Right proper nebbiolo here and while the palate may seem a touch restrained the wine is just tight, as young Barolo so often is. The structure is strong and the flesh available will hang around for as long as it takes to see a resolution. Even if the fruit lays low in a dumb-like phase it will show resilience and come back to the party. Represents Caplet well with all parts in touch, including the savoury and mineral. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enzo Boglietti Barolo DOCG Case Nere 2019

Casa Nere is both fruity and rustic, pretty and traditional. There is some VA in the wake off that fruit but it is in check so as not to fully distract from the goal. That would be mid-term aging and the kind of Barolo you want to bring out at dinner five to seven years post release or eight to 11 after vintage. Look just ahead of 2027 for this to begin its prime time at the table. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

F.Lli Casetta Di Casetta Ernesto E C. Barolo DOCG Casa Nere 2019

So very primary, almost carbonic in terms of aromas and so seeing far afield is the only way to make judgement on such a nebbiolo. The tannins are so bloody tight and they double down on the sanguine, blood orange aspects of this still reverberating Barolo. Looks like it will morph into something proper but the jury will be out for several years time. Drink 2026-2032. Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Cappellano Di Veglio Luigi Barolo DOCG Castagni 2019

Completely unique profile in nebbiolo for Barolo from the cru of Castagni which for all intents and purposes is a singular estate’s block of soil. Liking the chalky constitution and gentle swarthiness of this nebbiolo and while the tannic thrust is tough on the palate there is plenty of fruit in a ripe and substantial way to keep up with the plan. Should resolve into a Barolo worthy and revered. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Michele Chiarlo Barolo DOCG Cerequio 2019

From Cerequio there is a notable swarthiness and wooly character, this without even taking a sip. There is also a great and compact set of moist red fruit out of a most aromatic nebbiolo. Stands out from a pack and so the cru is wet to be heard. Youthful and grippy but these are tannins of a polished ilk that match the wealth of the perfume. A Barolo of all parts elevated and characterful, without a doubt one that will soon become charming and even gregarious. Impressive stature here. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Molino Mauro Barolo DOCG Conca 2019

The Conca cru out of La Morra delivers a lean, light and über transparent nebbiolo for a very specific style of Barolo. Red citrus from currants to pomegranate and really tart acidity. Though the grittiness in liquid chalky tannins will eventually dissolve, this Conca will show its best in the mid term. After the end of this decade there will likely only be the acid structures left to direct the palate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

Reductive though not super distractingly so and fruit ripe enough if variegated by combinative sources. Crunchy and just a bit astringent if a promising look ahead where tannins are resolved and the wine offers some love. Won’t ever be showy or gregarious – but time will be helpful and kind. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Alessandria Marilena Cristian Boffa Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

A bit closed and hidden as far as aromatics are concerned with just a peak of red rose, orange tisane and grated ginger. More like horseradish and so something occludent is in the way of what should be precluding. Tart and full on tang with middling tannin make for a wine to drink after the clock strikes 2024 and for just a few lean years after that. Not much fleshy substance here I’m afraid. A bit dusty. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo DOCG Bricco Gattera 2019

A smooth sailing season, weather consistent from start to finish, aside from the hail and the frost of September 5th. That was no disaster and the rest of September was perfectly fine. A nearly perfectly ripening in both pace and accumulation, picked on the 11th of October. A terrific Barolo, compact but not compressed, just the right amount of natural sweetness at all three levels; fruit, acid and tannin. That structure is again compact though nothing indicates weight or density but yes, plenty of gravitas. Beautiful nebbiolo and while it will travel long, it’s also nearly ready. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted January 2023

Carlo Revello & Figli Barolo DOCG Giachini 2019

Giachini is the first of the 2019 nebbiolo to be really present and emit prettiness. Also the first strawberry scented Barolo and so the cru is surely the source of such a red fruit stride. While the structure is anything but formidable there is a lithe white peppery pique and mild grip to see this drink well for let’s say up to five-plus years. If the price is right the buy in is really good. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG La Serra 2019

La Serra lines up in a similar weight and vein to Giachini by an aromatic profile that is nothing but pretty with sweet perfume coming from fruit described as just the same. A bit more oomph and minty savour though subtle and just like spice or seasoning upon raw salty protein. Also a gentle swarthiness with that naturally woolly texture coating the palate to protect from a medium-plus intensity of tannin. This is a very promising Barolo. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Marcarini di Bava Luisa & C. Barolo DOCG 2019

Reductive off the top and mature to indicate something problematic. Definite bottle issue here. Second bottle is much improved with great substance in spite of a lean and implosive profile. This nebbiolo carries proper and real grip with a profile so honest and transparent you just know that reality means producer, cru and soil are all important. Really young and must be collared to see where it will go. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2019

Energy as if a matter of semi-carbonic, an extremely useful contribution and gainfully swarthy. Tannins are fierce and the tension in this wine is serious. No doubt six months to a year will do wonders in terms of giving a more open impression of what is to come but make no mistake. The structure of this nebbiolo is massive and the fruit surely capable of keeping up with the Joneses. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pietro Rinaldi Barolo DOCG 2019

Middle of the road in all respects, first of red fruit with orange edginess and tension off the top. It’s a direct hit of nebbiolo, knowable and unequivocal with the cherries, tar, rose and herbs. Benchmark for ubiquity and tannins that back up the exercise for a five year run. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Stroppiana Barolo DOCG San Giacomo 2019

Less of a direct hit but more like a kick in the side from classic La Morra perfume, savoury flavour and grip by tannin. Drier and dustier for nebbiolo which carries and expresses its very own style of ubiquity and this is a poster child for the like. The back end feels some weight and so the wine will likely begin to decline sooner than some. More lightness of being and laser focus would help but alas that is not this. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Carlo Revello & Figli Barolo DOCG 2019

While some La Morra attack with direct nebbiolo hits and others come from the sides there are some that split the twain. This nebbiolo would be that kind. Somewhat restrained aromas but the cherry, rose, tar and sweetness of herbs are there, albeit stuck behind a repealable veil of structure. Give this two-plus years and the curtain will be pulled away to reveal the wine this wants to be. Shows both good purpose and potential. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monfalletto Barolo DOCG 2019

Darker, richer and quicker resolved fruit with drying yet ample tannins. A bit off a disparate nebbiolo for which the parts are far apart and need time to return to centre. Not certain they will ever meet at the exact middle. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2019

Really quite classic nebbiolo right here with high-toned red fruit in a red citrus and slightly dusty way, though more than enough charm to see the right, joyous and correct way. Tannins are a bit angry but that is not shocking and they will begin to subside after just a few years of time. Liking the transparency and honesty though would never see this as a rich and luxe example of La Morra. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di La Morra 2019

Lovely little nebbiolo here, sweet and sour fruit with a great tang and some of the easiest tannins of the vintage. Bring on the Chinese food! Drink 2023-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

A swarthy and humid Barolo with the smell of fresh cut cedar, and the fresh savour of an evergreen forest. Incredibly savoury nebbiolo unchained and without restraint so viewed at the stage as a hyperbole of cru, that being Rocche dell-Annunziata. Good quality tannins here so the wine will live long and prosper. The style is exaggerated and you just may find it to your liking. Drink 2026-2033. Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

A much more intense and serious nebbiolo from the Rocche dell-Annunziata cru is this right here with a variegation of tannins matched by substantial fruit with as much grip as anything else. Massive construction of Barolo with all the stuffing imagined for twenty years of living. Packed with insulation and the wine will never get cold or suffer from the elements. So well protected. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2019

Very primary but the fruit is substantial and yet there is that cilantro soapiness that Barolo sometimes shows about the spicing of said fruit. Tannic yes but not over the top. Linear and focused so it remains to be seen where this will travel. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Very primary and how could it not be as a barrel sample and yet there are more resolved parts in this Rocche dell-Annunziata than others tasted from bottle. Expressive of a proper woolliness meeting chalky tannic presence to set this up for some good nebbiolo living. Chewy and drying at the same time. Drink 2026-2035. Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Ratti Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2019

High volatility creeping up into an acetic vein though this feels like a batch issue, not a problem with a particular bottle. Pine forest and wet straw, green tannins and harsh pepperiness. Some improvement on the palate and then finishing with astringent notes. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Dosio Barolo DOCG Serradenari 2019

Woolly and swarthy to begin, dusty red fruit in the citrus style of La Morra and here more specifically Serradanari. Dried cherries and also roses but substantial and the acids work to flesh them out, lend them solubility to become fresh again. Interesting nebbiolo, improving in the glass and becoming something worth following. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rizieri Barolo DOCG Silio 2019

Silio from La Morra is simple and effective as nebbiolo for Barolo of a tart, tang-filled and sharp tannic ilk. Not the most complex or diversified example but effective nonetheless. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Torriglione 2019

Torriglione delivers a macerated cherry sensation as a lovely elixir of naturally sweet fruit. As a nebbiolo there is something intangible that reminds of a Piero from Talenti in Montalcino. Yes there are rare moments when nebbiolo and sangiovese converge, even if 99 times out of 100 they are more likely to diverge. This is lovely and spirited Barolo worth saving and cellaring. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Novello

Abrigo Giovanni Di Abrigo Giorgio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Proper and balanced right away as Ravera yet with a pine-savoury edginess running through. Liquid chalky and just a bit sour-edged. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Broccardo Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Heady aromatic front, big-boned and fully engaged with the vintage. Quite sanguine and ferric, of iodine and balsamic. So much gravity and intensity, drying tannins and trenchant purpose. A magnanimous Ravera with much to prove. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abrigo F.Lli Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Prettier fro Ravera with plenty of substantial fruit beginning and ending with cherries. Good intensity, not too much mind you and a nice sour edginess that keeps coming in waves, returning again and again. Good persistence from this nebbiolo, purposed and focused no doubt. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Ravera is arguably the most important Novello cru and the eight iterations tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima show just how challenging it is to make a memorably great Barolo. A great number are impressive and then there is this take by the Vaira family. Their section of the cru might just deliver the richest and most unctuous fruit. Coupled with a season up there with the finest of seasons could result in something too ripe and upfront. “Al contrario, anzi, non così in fretta.” No shortage of generosity but team Vaira has written a perfectly paced nebbiolo song. An ode to 1975 classic rock but also something so new, modern and pure. The fruit is all pro, the structure no con. No adversity or issues with tannin because the chains are so strong and suave. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted January 2023

Grimaldi Giacomo Di Grimaldi Ferruccio Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Swarthy and high volatility upon sour dark cherry fruit. Crabapple and red onion skin as well. Fruit is a bit too mature. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vitivinicola Cagliero Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Bright, natural sweet and sour juxtaposed fruit of a balanced and consistent aromatic emission, with equal and persistent qualities exhibited by the palate. Yet there is something so savoury and edgy about the flavours, like lit tobacco of mild astringency. Close but no cigar. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mauro Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Comes out like nebbiolo should albeit on the lithe and transparent side, of cherry fruit with a plumpness that’s more plum seasoned by cracked black pepper. Swarthy and salty, woollen and fuzzy. Unique to be sure. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vietti Barolo DOCG Ravera 2019

Fine liquor of nebbiolo unlike any other in a flight adding up to 80-odd Barolo and so curiosity is piqued at attention. Lovely gelid consistency in a wine of great implosive intensity that should take a decade or more to unravel. The charm and excitability are strong. Look forward to returning again and again. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Piazzo Comm. Armando Di Piazzo Marina Barolo DOCG Sottocasetello Di Novello 2019

Cool, savoury and a bit boozy from ripe fruit, like macerating cherries in a simple syrup solution. Rich and unctuous with sweet acidity and tannins quite similar though they attack with fervour. Solid if a bit out of balance. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Grimaldi Giacomo Di Grimaldi Ferruccio Barolo DOCG Sottocastello Di Novello 2019

Quality nebbiolo fruit to be sure, straight away and with confidence. Liquid chalky and also peppery, herbal and with an Amaro finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

With Francesca Vaira

Serralunga d’Alba

G.D. Vajra Di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Baudana 2019

You have to believe this Baudana was made for us, and I mean all of us to enjoy Barolo 2019 earlier than many of its peers. The nose is so smooth and inviting, the palette equally so and crunchy fresh. This is simply a fine composition that tells everything that needs to be known about the vintage. Red fruit just mature enough to be ready and structure determined by vintage, never trying too hard and ideal for the next five years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Palladino Boscareto 2019

Boscareto doles Serralunga d’Alba with comfort and relative ease in nebbiolo of dark red fruit (think black cherry) and just the faintest hint of dustiness, like the skins of a red plum. Everything is just so – ripeness, acids, savoury bits, herbals and tannins. All in the right place at essentially the same time. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brovia Barolo DOCG Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia 2019

Higher in tone, not exactly brighter but there’s an aromatic rise that comes from this, yet still what feels like typical Serralunga d’Alba. Roses and orange skin, a note of balsamico. Quite a taut and yet to yield example. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2019

Plenty of tradition in this Briccolina, if nothing else that is abundantly clear. Dark ripeness for the most part and that fine line walked between most excellent fruit and a swarthiness to remind that these vines grow in soil. Not to mention the wine is made in such a way so as to promote the relationship between the vineyard, the cellar and all that develops from out of a natural world. Plenty of potential and a wine for those who like a bit of sauvage. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Schiavenza Di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Broglio 2019

Broglio is a truly tart and tightly wound example of Serralunga d’Alba but with tell-tale fruit that just feels like it could only represent the hills of this commune. Dustier than some others and like a wire wrapped and circling the spool, pulled so tight there can be no imminent release. Or anytime soon for that matter. That said you feel the effect of this intense juice on your palate for a good long time. Should age with the best of them. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Luigi Baudana Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Considered the fruit’s pitch and depth this is a nebbiolo in which acidity is tops and surprisingly so. “Always from Ceretta” says Francesca Vaira. “Even if it is a very leafy vintage.” Truly, as noted in the savoury streak running through, surely not atypical for Ceretta cru. Red berries shading to black yet bright, shining and luminescent. Lovely version of Ceretta with a fine balance between that which is tart and naturally sweet. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted January 2023

Germano Ettore Di Germano Sergio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

More than somewhat reductive Ceretta, of earth and fruit kept hidden for the time being but also a real mineral notation, or at least something that makes us think that to be the case. What lays beneath are classic notes, rose petals and tar, orange scrape and aromatics as if by ginger or the smoulder of spice on curing and smoking meats. There is a strong crust and slow developed Barque as a skin on this nebbiolo and in 2019 Serralunga d’Alba terms it will likely take as long to open up as any from the commune. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Garesio Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Lighter and brighter for Ceretta from Serralunga d’Alba, fruit well developed and already showing a maturity for earlier access. Quite tart, high in acid and tannins feeling drying yet not so very long-chained. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

Straight away as much a feeling gained as being a nebbiolo from the greater whole that is Serralunga d’Alba though Ceretta focused this is and with time in the glass will open to reveal its particular specificity. A bit of cheese rind here, some deeper or more earthy grounding and a moment of brooding. Tannins are quite grippy and the wine will take its time. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2019

The consistency of Cerreta cru is quite remarkable and here another example that carries the weight and class with equal distinction. Tighter or at least as tight as any in its class, tannins immediately known to be grippy and in charge. A wine to wait on and wait for years because its far from ready. On the far side of 2019 in that regard and so remains to be seen if full beauty waits on the other side. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga D’alba 2019

Plain and simple the straight and narrow goods from Serralunga d’Alba with fruit part dark cherry and also plum dusty. Acids crunch in part because there are dried herbs and bits of tar in the nether with tannins grippy but also a bit hard. Middle of the road example that also needs a few years to settle in. Will always drink as a dry and taut nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

De Simone Roberto Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Perfectly light to mid weight Serralunga d’Alba in the most generalized and understood way. A good combination of commune vineyard fruit to create a layering that is pretty much seamless and proper though there are bits here and there that flash and spark. Lovely level of tart and fruit tang, mild earthiness and just as it began it then finishes with medium intensity tannins that follow suit. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Margheria Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Just a bit of a different sort of Serralunga d’Alba iteration coming from this non-specific commune nebbiolo with fruit as dark and mature as it gets for the greater sense of place. Deep inhalant of nebbiolo with more tar than roses and fruits both orange and red compacted one upon another, again and on repeat. So much up front including the tannins and it just feels like a fully pressed wine with everything coming at you, all at once. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Negro Angelo & Figli Di Giovanni Negro Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

Once again the commune delivers its up front values with all parts equally on display if in the style of all in, with haste, straight from the word press. Leathery and earthy red to blackening fruit and all the acid-tannin structural demand, without waiting or holding back. This means the concepts of taut, tart and tang are compacted upon each other while drying notes bind it all together at a quick and forceful finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Enrico Serafino Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

A brighter and more effusive Serralunga d’Alba here, nice level of woolly aromatics that entice and linger so that you choose to spend more time on the nose of this intriguing nebbiolo. A gentler touch it feels, a press and likely cappello sommerso methodology that coaxes the right kind of perfumes and creates correct textures. This is simply a lovely and elegant iteration of commune fruit without stress, but with just the right amount of tension. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba 2019

The sort of truly straightforward, expected and knowable multi-vineyard commune example is this from Serralunga d’Alba, without equivocation or fail. A just reward in nebbiolo, dark cherry in fruit, leathery and wise, tense yet never tired. Interest runs high and yet thinking too much about how it was made or for what purpose is simply unnecessary. Cellar for three years, pop and pour with a pasta course, preferably under a sauce of salssicia ragù. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Boasso Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2019

Dry, earthy and a bit brittle in terms of structure but if you know you know and this is a prime example of a Barolo mired in a place that is ten years before its time. The bones are solid, the intensions altruistic and the confidence ahead of the pack. Gabutti is the cru in Serralunga d’Alba and seeing the forest for the trees is essential in knowing what will become. This moment is truly a “dumb” phase and greater things lay ahead. Trust the process. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Garesio Barolo DOCG Gianetto 2019

Gianetto is lithe and greatly perfumed as a nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba that is truly about beginnings with less attention paid to the greater picture. The fruit is naturally sweet but also quite tart and so there is a slight acetic elevation involved. Tannins are both dusty and brittle. Wait a year and then make use quickly after that. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023à

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2019

Here Lazzarito delivers a one-two pinch of fruit and also perfumes, of red berry and orange, of fresh rose and lilac. Quite a deep aromatic front followed by true depth and intensity on the palate. Big wine for Serralunga d’Alba, layered, compact and generous yet just airy enough to allow breaths of fresh acidity and essential oils to lubricate and elasticize the parts. There should be a long and prosperous life ahead for this special nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2034. Cask sample, tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Di Mirafiore & Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG Lazzarito 2019

Tart aromas, dark in violet light, a nebbiolo of chiaroscuro, shadows and hidden meaning. Perceived and felt with hunger and emotion but the wine requests that you take your time to gain an understanding of its meaning. Patience and attention paid will lead to the truth but also time as the factor for arriving at that place. There is profundity here, that much is apparent and it’s incumbent on you to reach said nirvana. Lazzarito will abide. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pira Luigi Di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Marenca 2019

Unusual nose for Serralunga d’Alba and perhaps just a sign of early maturity. In fact that is the case and this Marenca speaks in a language that says drink now. Softest tannins of any in the commune from 2019 but no faults, no issues and pretty good wine for right now. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pira Luigi Di Gianpaolo Pira Barolo DOCG Margheria 2019

A perfectly reasonable and well seasoned Margheria from the commune of Serralunga d’Alba brings a handsome and lean yet muscular tone to nebbiolo. The aromatics are neither shy nor running with haste and draw you in for more. Traceable actions, emotions and notions upon the palate make you realize this to be something consistent, persistent and quite fine. Nothing earth shattering but defined as truly responsible and beautifully plausible Barolo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG Meriame 2019

Mariame is true to Serralunga d’Alba commune yet idealistic as its own cru as first noted in aromas running this way and that. Earthy fruit and a cheese rind that repeats with a lactic creaminess. Structure is one of grip and relent meaning there are tannins but they do soften early. The drinking window follows this course. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Manzone Gian Paolo Barolo DOCG 2019

Not the most open-knit or prominent aromatic front so pause and see what will be. A demi-classic Serralunga d’Alba perfume does come forth in the rose, orange, cherry and tar way but it’s both faint and uninspiring. Palate follows suit though admittedly improves upon the proposition. Solid wine in the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG 2019

A bit of a soft, lean and dishy dilute nebbiolo with no real grip or concentration. Not representative of Serralunga d’Alba in any meaningful manner. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019

Palladino Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019

It all begins with Ornato in that the perfume is quite serious with an amazing display of ferric, hematic and smoked meaty notes. Really deep set of Serralunga d’Alba circumstances established in fruit, earth and stone for a wine of great and trenchant meaning. Structurally that is with backbone, essential acids and the kind of stuffing to see this travel with potential, possibly for decades. Controlled chalkiness and slightly heavy use of wood though that too will help see it live forever. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Palladino Barolo DOCG Parafada 2019

Parafada being pretty and generous is no mistake for a nebbiolo predicated on perfume. Orange zest, cherry skin, red apple too. Not the most demanding set of structural circumstances right here and sometimes that is just fine. Drink this cru nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba sooner than Ornato. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Vico Luigi Barolo DOCG Prapò 2019

Lovely aromatic stance exerted by this Prapò out of Serralunga d’Alba with fresh cut flowers unlike most others and a depth of fruit to match the perfume. High quality work put in and continued in the cellar makes this shine without any volatility whatsoever. Perhaps a bit soft and barrel creamy upon the palate but a most amenable nebbiolo no matter how you slice this Black Forest cake. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Davide Fregonese Barolo DOCG Prapò 2019

This second of two Prapò out of Serralunga d’Alba is much like the first, pretty of perfume, floral and fruit juicy. The palate is bit tighter and the backbone more upright. Sacrifices some of that first encountered lithe amenability for grippier nebbiolo connections. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Le Cecche Barolo DOCG Sorano 2019

Sorano is a lean and tannic nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba with some acetic tones and dusty tannins. Not a lot of joy early on and while time is an ally it will always remain tight and not what we would refer to as generous. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Terre Del Barolo Arnaldo Rivera Barolo Vignarionda 2019

Great initial swarthy launch into an aromatic display like a weather front rolled in and hovering over the earth. Vignarionda opens up and rains on earthy fruit in a nebbiolo that can’t be missed or ignored. Dark cherry, tar and some iodine to ferric tendencies. The palate shows more savour and wood, a spice factor but also a hollowness up the middle. Needs just a bit more stuffing though the wine never overworks or tries too hard. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo

Fratelli Serioe Battista Borgogno Barolo DOCG Albarella 2019

Herbal aromatic Barolo commune fruit puts Albarella in a cru of its own and speaks a particular vernacular. One of seasoning and then come the chains of tannin, marching in one by one. In a line, ready to battle. The rusticity in this wine speaks to the traditional, to big casks and loyalty. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gomba Cascina Boschetti Barolo DOCG Boschetti 2019

Boschetti is simply beautiful, an aromatic stunner of rose bushes and red fruit so well seasoned and fortified to go on forever. While the nebbiolo in this glass is indeed something too behold it is also one contained within a bubble of great structure to see charm released ever so slowly with all signs pointing to this taking place over two plus decades. The first signs of release are five away. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

G. D. Vajra Albe Barolo DOCG 2019

Albe a Barolo of four cru, fruit source quadruplet of directions, like looking all four ways an intersection for nebbiolo that speaks four languages and answers four questions. Albe is the window into the 2019, accessible and inviting, fruit times four, all of which explain what a vintage has been from then moment fruit reach maturity and was picked. The precursor and foreshadow into all else to come. Muscular yet supple and with an aim to please. Tannins are nurturing and potential will be longer than imagination will allow. Drink this for up to 12 years. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted January 2023

G.D. Vajra Di Vaira Aldo Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2019

Senses and palates are put on immediate notice for Bricco delle Viole because from out of 2019 the Barolo cru delivers something to stop us in our tracks. The confidence and restraint are more than admirable as they conspire for beauty and of course excellence. Purity of fruit, consistency in temperament and length to last a short lifetime are the combined quotient in this very special nebbiolo. Honesty and execution for Barolo incarnate. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marengo Mario Di Marengo Marco Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2019

This second of two Bricco delle Viole cru nebbiolo is deeper and darker or perhaps better assessed as quicker to explain its purpose from the 2019 vintage. The fruit exudes confidence and the wine wants you to know this, sans restraint. Acid to tannin structure do much of the same and the wood seasons everything to the max. Will live long though there will always be level of austerity involved. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Serioe Battista Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Uncanny aroma of chocolate mint to say that wood is equal to cru in this Cannubi from Barolo commune. Seems to be a mix of cask and smaller barrels – likely some new barriques in this elévage. Also quite a note of evergreen and even clove. This is a maker who cares about their program and wants their wine to speak in this language. Fruit is a bit suppressed, tannins are quite dusty, acids strong. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Fine and spiced if a touch reductive nebbiolo with notable wood off the top as well. A Cannubi concerned with spicing and seasoning, generously salted and of a marked peppery kick. Fruit really shows well on the palate and the mouthfeel does well to express the generous nature of the cru. Long and rewarding to tell us time is the ally and this Barolo will outlast a great many others. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Reticent, not reductive but somewhat closed. That said there is a creaminess to the aromatics, a lactic note and seasoning by scraped orange zest. Lots of wood here and a wine that speaks a language of honour and tradition. Dries a bit but is honestly par for the nebbiolo-Barolo course. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Francesco & Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Nicely aromatic Cannubi, more so than the others in a flight of five, perfumed in floral ways and fruity to a great degree. Quite insular, implosive and tart after that with real tightness and tension upon the palate. Will live a good decade or more post haste in a period of quiet and resolution. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

E. Pira E Figli Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2019

Classic Cannubi, perfumed and structured, rose to violet, acids and tannin. All of the above, heightened and then grippy, intense and ultimately long. Trenchant response to vintage for a nebbiolo of focus and reality. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barale F.Lli Di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2019

Odd entry, like play dough or yes indeed past water. Weak and pasty. Not great. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Castellero 2019

Closed, lean, green and woody. Not a lot of fruit joy. Evergreen, brushy savour and so the character lies in these traits. A treatise between earth and stone, barrel and nebbiolo. What it is. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Camparo Barolo DOCG Coste Di Vergne 2019

Strong aromas, cru specific indeed, a Coste di Vergne speciality, hearty nebbiolo, heady and with healthy grip. No lack of substance or control in fact this Barolo takes the bull by the horns and rides astride. No fear here. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantine Dei Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo 2019

High-toned, acetic edgy and youthfully gritty nebbiolo from the ubiquity of the Barolo commune. Bones are strong and tradition runs high so appreciate this nebbiolo for what it is. The real deal. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Borgogno Barolo DOCG Fossati 2019

Top quality fruit, substantial and layered if also compressed and compact. Classicism incarnate, nebbiolo scents captured in every respect, fruit oil the naturally juicy sweet side and herbals equally so. Lovely palate mouthfeel, smooth and ever so slightly creamy, a suave texture derived and ready for what comes next. That being tannins as agreeable as all parts come before and the final context is a beautifully composed Fossati with great days ahead. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barale F. Lli Di Barale Sergio Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo Di Bussia 2019

Wood in every respect, vanilla and lavender, cloying and over the top. Evergreen and mint. Too much distraction. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bric Cenciurio Di Pittatore A E A Barolo DOCG Monrobiolo di Bussia 2019

An herbal nebbiolo from Monrobiolo di Bussia, amaro like, cool and sweetly bitter. Aromatically speaking that is and then comes the darkness of night in the way of tannin, just after a real tang on the central palate. A winner of three parts, though not all together. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Borgogno Barolo DOCG 2019

No cru or MGA mention from this solid nebbiolo of traditional scents and taciturn behaviour. Good bones, chilled features and just enough freshness to handle the tannins in attack. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bric Cenciurio Di Pittatore A E A Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Barolo Pittatore 2019

Once again a proper nebbiolo aromatic attack with no mention of MGA but here a clear and present pronouncement of commune. Barolo fruit for Barolo sake out of a vintage that complies and abides. Crunch and crust, earth and dust, fine lines and finer tension. Drying to a degree and the wood is just a bit over seasoned though time will help alleviate any pain. No undue stress in the end. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

L’Astemia Pentita Barolo DOCG 2019

The other nebbiolo from Barolo, fruit on the orange spectrum, juiced and zested, very much a sangiune and ochre citrus proposition. Also quite woody, vanilla and creamy on the palate, tannins serious. Quite dried out by the time the fruit has gone away but that is the nature of nebbiolo from a vintage like 2019. Time will begin the healing. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Roberto Sarotto Di Cavallotto Aurora Barolo DOCG Audace 2019

So much wood and no fruit as a result, or at last hidden beneath the sappy drip of vanilla and lavender. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Viberti Giovanni Barolo DOCG Buon Padre 2019

Tight and reductive, dark black cherry behind a wall of freshness and herbaceousness. Good acid-tannin structure and potential because there is a substantial amount of fruit kept safely tucked away. A top level nebbiolo without cru affiliation from Barolo. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG San Lorenzo 2019

San Lorenzo cru in Barolo commune brings forth solid nebbiolo drupe with fine acids and more wood than some. That said the barrel seasoning in spiced terms is proper and supportive though the dried herbs and resins do compound over time. And so time is needed to soften these things but not too much because there is a softness on the other side of this wine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brezza Giacomo e Figli dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019.

Reductive yet fruit juicy with a caper and dill acid addendum for a Barolo from Sarmassa that begins all over the map. Plenty of intensity and aromas to tell before transitioning to ample conditioning and substance upon the palate. So much going on in this wildly expressive wine and time will tell to see the settling, integration and positive consciousness. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantine Di Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019

The connective tissue between one Sarmassa to the next seems on display as here the early notes perceived go blood orange and also savoury caper. Yet this stays the citrus course with greater confidence and the juiciness of this nebbiolo is really quite special. Exhibits the right kind of tart and also a liquid chalkiness to speak of the earth, light clay and stone, in that sweet spot where fruit and tension collide. Tops for the cru and one that heeds the vintage with great distinction. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Virna Borgogno Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2019

The third of three Sarmassa exhibits the most barrel in fact it throws the toasted oak full force into the tobacco and roasting meat aromatics without holding back. Vanilla and spices, clove nut also nutmeg and cinnamon. Can imagine a fresh autumn evening with pumpkin and beef stewing side by side with this nebbiolo. Über classic Barolo. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castiglione Falletto

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Altenasso 2019

Altenasso presents a specialized and unique profile of a nebbiolo nosing of flowers fresh and dried but also fruit like persimmon and apricot. Chewy fruit, leathery, dried roll up and the similar ilk. Tannins are chalky and a bit gritty but they will melt, coordinate with the other parts and the transitions will surely smoothen. Nice wine, mid-term aging potential recognized and a good fit for Barolo. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2019

A barrel sample from Bricco Boschis and one of the more mature in this category, most parts resolved at least to a degree where seeing the goal is possible. Good connection between fresh and dried fruit, a bit leathery and certainly some maturity here. The tannins too though they are quite chalky and will take another five plus years to mostly resolve. There is a bit of Brett here, not egregious but definitely present. Drink 2024-2028. Cask sample tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Boroli Barolo DOCG Brunella 2019

Nice immediate depth noted in this Brunella cru from Castiglione Falletto commune, a nebbiolo of aromatic weave in texture out of design. Black cherry and also a dark blood orange, berry to citrus, no real earthiness at all. More evolution is felt on the palate as well as some unresolved sulphite. Lends a peppery kick and the wine is a bit out of sorts. Offer it some time. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Castiglione Falletto 2019

A nebbiolo from the commune of Castiglione Falletto with notable wood off the top and drying parts, in part because of the overuse of that oak. Simple wine from some solid fruit sources compromised by the producer’s cru divisioning. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo Docg Del Comune Di Castiglione Falletto 2019

Good fruit and bones, a nebbiolo of traditional quality and yeoman work done up from a vintage that encouraged such an operation. Wood felt more on the palate in vanilla to chocolate with dried herbs and clay to finish. Pretty traditional stuff. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Monprivato 2019

From Monprivato and the kind of aromatic juices that need be encouraged as often as possible. The roses and orange citrus, earthy sweetness and no wood to speak of. There are no let downs or pauses in this cru’s interpretation of Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo, only seamless transitions and beauty throughout. The tannins are just that correct mix of sweetness and tension, tactile and the taciturn. Yes, yes, please! Drink 2025-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Boroli Barolo DOCG 2019

Some evolution already with maturity of fruit in a raisin inflection. Tannins are equally mature and there are some sour notes overall. Drink up. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bovio Gianfranco Di Bovio Alessandra Barolo DOCG Parussi 2019

Lithe and citrusy, yet another blood orange cru for a vintage that seems to coax such notes without hesitation. Tart, tang, direct hits of acid and tannins doing much the same. Solid wine from the Parussi cru though not one to age forever. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rosoretto Barolo DOCG Parussi 2019

Once again Castiglione Falletto supplies a citrus stylistic through here there is as much pink grapefruit as there is blood orange. Seems lighter on the nose than on the palate as the texture goes a bit resiny and glycerin. Wood is a factor as noted by the chocolate and spices coming at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brovia Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

Rocche di Castiglione shows immediate structure from backbone and strong grip in ways the other Castiglione Falletto nebbiolo don’t seem to do. Darker fruit integrates cherry into the blood orange citrus and wood sidles on along with equal and opposing force. A seasoned and spiced nebbiolo yet one with good tannic structure and the ability to age. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monchiero Fratelli Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

The second of two cru wines from Castiglione Falletto in the Rocche di Castiglione MGA is even darker of fruit and headier than the first. As are the acids and also the tannins, fierce and holding quite the level of structural tension. This is a formidably assembled and constructed nebbiolo and one that can surely live two decades or more. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Terre Del Barolo Arnaldo Rivera Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castiglione 2019

This third iteration of Rocche di Castiglione is an anomaly in that the fruit is neither dark nor are the bones of this wine as upright and strong as the other two wines. That said there is a different sort of depth in here, more aromatic, more fruit up front and also an earth derivation that really speaks too this sense of cru in the commune of Castiglione Falletto. The wine falls off a bit when it comes to mouthfeel because the tannins really dry out and suck moisture away. Solid wine though and much more traditional in several ways. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Bava Barolo DOCG Scarrone 2019

Scarrone is lighter of style for the commune of Castiglione Falletto and there is a great deal of barrel involved to decide the overall nebbiolo character. Chalky and with some grittiness, even a bit brittle I dare say. The ripeness is the heart of the matter and so time is an ally. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Villero 2019

Incredible uncanny scent of liquorice or as it is said fennel from this Vilierio cru nebbiolo out of the commune of Castiglione Falletto. The aromas persists and the flavours only accentuate the initial notes. Then come dried fruit in pods, like carbon and bokser, finishing at drying herbs and tannin. Traditional work here to be sure. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi E Cantine Oddero Barolo DOCG Villero 2019

A fine and loyal Viliero comes from this herbal and clay-earthy nebbiolo with Castiglione Falletto backbone and utmost certainty for decades of aging. The elévage for this cru-designate wine is beautifully purposed, neither old-school nor modern and just expertly designed straight in between. Fine example that works the glass with excellence. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monforte d’Alba

Cascina Sot Di Sanso Maurizio Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte D’Alba 2019

Interesting note of candied or almost crème brûlée of orange in a nebbiolo from Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba. Rich and concentrated, fruit dark and almost mysterious what with its chiaroscuro effect. The structure is very middle of the road and the tannins are peppery so yes this will be a fine mid term Barolo but nothing to imagine as existing in a bubble to visit twenty years forward. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Icollirossi Barolo DOCG Del Comune Di Monforte d’Alba 2019

Dark cherry, equally citric and somewhat dusty nebbiolo comes from quality if quantified fruit sources adding up to ubiquitous Monforte d’Alba. A solid nebbiolo as Barolo, qualifying with exemplary distinction and just enough naturally curated swarthy character to give this wine its own personality. Tannins really dry away so give this two years minimum. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Del Commune Di Monforte d’Alba 2019

There are rich and dark Monforte d’Alba Barolo and then there is this example, lighter, transparent and unencumbered. Cherries are red, leather is fresh and and oranges are juiced into the wine. Dry and savoury, roses also arid and the wine just keeps saying “let me be, drink me later.” Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anna Maria Abbona Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Bricco San Pietro marches to a funky beat, apposite to many, akin to some of older heart and soul. It’s rhythms are unique, aromatics heady and flavours wild. Dark of berry fruit, sharp of acids and middling by tannin to speak of style but more so cru. Good fun, danceable Barolo, not one for the ages. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Brawny, haute and heady Bricco San Pietro in this glass so full, all in, concentrated and spoken of a matter of fact mind. Intensity of fruit intertwined with equally gregarious acidity, crunchy as nebbiolo, arrived in modernity, wine of open heart and mind. That said it’s a wine of solid construction and utilitarian architecture, built to impress and serve the people. Should do this well and with pride for a decade. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Le Cecche Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Heady nebbiolo from Bricco San Pietro if more restrained then some others of its Monforte d’Alba cru ilk. Some swarthy peppery piques on the aromatics though subtle enough to stay in check. Cool savour mixed with black cherry does indeed put this in modern stance that is also grounded, balanced and hard to knock over. Really sturdy Barolo. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2019

Big austere Barolo here from Monforte d’Alba in the cru of Bricco San Pietro with more than demanding tannins in fact they are the entire early attraction. Hard to see the fruit through the structure and the forest in a Barolo still stuck in wood. Extremely arid and tough. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Unusual aromatic entry, part pine forest and part Castelmagno cheese. Either something is amiss or the nebbiolo here just comes out a little differently. The palate improves on the situation with some fruit sweetness and the tannins are relatively amenable, at least as far as youth and nebbiolo are concerned. Wait two years and drink for seven. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Agricola Gian Piero Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Boozy nose on this Bussia with austere tannins that skulk, command and numb the wishful fruit. There is just too much extraction of structure for the purple-violet gang to find sweetness anytime in the near future. Ambitious and such trenchant desire puts this Bussia in a league of its own. Fearing that the waiting will be a minimum seven years before any real charm or natural fruit will begin to emerge. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

A fine and flirtatious Bussia here from the swinging esses of a valley that snakes through Monforte d’Alba for nebbiolo you just need to know more about. A great and soulful swarthiness initiates the kind of character to speak of a natural approach and an abiding of cru. Cool, savoury-sour-sweet and also umami balance with no lead taken and all aspects working in cohorts. A nebbiolo to revisit again and again, to make friends with, to know for life. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023.A fine and flirtatious Bussia here from the swinging esses of a valley that snakes through Monforte d’Alba for nebbiolo you just need to know more about. A great and soulful swarthiness initiates the kind of character to speak of a natural approach and an abiding of cru. Cool, savoury-sour-sweet and also umami balance with no lead taken and all aspects working in cohorts. A nebbiolo to revisit again and again, to make friends with, to know for life. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Darker of fruit and gainful of acidity, a Bussia that challenges tradition and accepts climate for how it will affect what is to come. A nebbiolo of strength across all parts and divides, moving through times of tension, built to last. It’s a different sort in certain respects and it deserves attention. It is part of the future. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Colla Barolo DOCG Bussia Dardi Le Rose 2019

Tart, orange tang, strong pressed and juiced nebbiolo out of Dardi Le Rose within Bussia. Bones are stronger than they might have first seemed to be and this 2019 heeds the vintage quite well. Nothing too cumbersome up front and a Barolo that builds with time. Par for the course and age-able while also acting just about agreeable as a wine from this vintage can be. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

High-toned Bussia, more than most, almost volatile but just hanging in long enough with fruit to match the air. Crunchy nebbiolo, tart and with great implosive intensity. Lingers for one of the longest cru finishes of the lot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rinaldi Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019

Orange off the top, a juice in which the roses swim and the cherries macerate. Lithe and transparent, Bussia light if you will or better yet a part of Bussia in vintage that directs such a transparency of style. Crisp and pure, one of the more focused Barolo from Monforte d’Alba although the wood is just a bit over onto the density defining way of this nebbiolo. Just the slightest lighter hand would have elevated this ’19 into the utter ethereal. In the meantime the wine will age very well because it’s so well balanced. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Amalia Cascina In Langa Barolo DOCG Bussia Vigna Fantini 2019

Rich and intense nebbiolo with more pinpointed dry accuracy as coming from Vigna Fantini within the larger Bussia. Doubles down on itself, concentrating a faction of the cru out of which there are glycerin citrus notes from head to tail, nose to palate. The parts are well synched in Fantini while the tannins persist with a fine elemental chalkiness though they are not overly demanding. A really fine example of a place within a place no doubt. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sara Vezza Barolo DOCG Castelletto Persiera 2019

Tart, and if there is some red fruit sweetness it stretches thin, dishy and somewhat dilute. Soapy like some would imagine cilantro and simple. Lacks concentration, clarity and ultimately structure. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

Closed as far as a Monforte d’Alba Barolo is concerned which increasingly seems to be a trait of the cru Castelletto. There feels to be some classic Barolo scents behind the veil, namely roses and cherries, tart, light and juicy. Good appellate, applet and palate presence to be sure, nothing extraordinary or out of the ordinary but balanced and promising. Will surely benefit from the bottle. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Castelletto Vigna Pressenda 2019

Funky and lactic Castelletto, orange rind and cheese crust too, tang in waves and acids very much the director of this nebbiolo cru’s attempt. Lean in the middle stages and austere at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fortemasso Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

Right, correct and proper Castelletto straight away, giving forth great richness of fruit and basically in delivery of all the finest attributes this cru could have from the vintage. Exemplary of 2019 without total struggle and this is nebbiolo that seems so comfortable in its own skin. Good chewy middle palate and welcoming throughout. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Raineri Gianmatteo Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2019

The darkest of Castelletto fruit with full on Monforte d’Alba sun-grabbed extraction. Concentration is the result for a richness of nebbiolo fruit at the height of cru heights. Does it all up front and then tapers off, descending into denouement quicker than some but the ride was pleasurable. Pretty classy wine all in all if not one to age with for a decade. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Ginestra Barolo Riserva DOCG 2016

A wise, mature and resolved Barolo that now sits in a lovely state of nebbiolo calm and interprets “the nobility of the soil,” this according to Fabio Faccenda. Ginestra does indeed breathe of its micro-climate, in particular the Ligurian winds that blow through to influence vine cycles. A lovely state of grace at this stage for Ginestra, surely a Barolo with a full coat of barrel, integrated, seasoned and pretty much seamless at this stage. Dark chocolate and liquid cocoa mark the finish. Ready to go. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Conterno Fantino Barolo DOCG Vigna Sorì Ginestra 2019

Ginestra is of a higher tonal calling, black cherry fruit magnetized by balsamic and sweet leather. Opens up the olfactory like few others with peppery colts and volatile peaks. Cool and expansive through the middle though the void is filled with an austerity of variegate tannin. Not all perfect phenols here to speak of cru by way of vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Alessandria Barolo DOCG Gramolere 2019

Gramolere is a lean, tart and tannic Barolo with little fruit joy up front. Quite tight, tough and austere, old school and herbal. Only time can heal the early wound and yet a wine of reserved fruit up front is not likely going to find heaps of natural sweetness later on. But it will always be Barolo. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Amalia Cascina In Langa Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

Good bones and solid fruit give this Le Coste di Monforte Barolo the grounding and the tools to do right by vintage and carry a nebbiolo torch. This is precisely what 2019 has delivered and here the acceptance translates to exemplary mid-weight Barolo. It is especially proper because the tannins are just about spot on. Very good work. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

From 2019 and just a bit of a shift to the left with a sour-edginess that is a bit distracting while tannins are jilted austere in the other direction. Time will be of some assistance but things are just a bit off centre. Still there is a reasonable vintage sentiment drawn and for nebbiolo more than enough to go on. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Diego Pressenda Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2019

Deep and seasoned nebbiolo takes full advantage of 2019 for this well pressed and therefore concentrated Barolo. Well representative of Le Coste di Monforte though not to be the longest ager of them all. Good acidity and quality tannins are supportive if a bit verdant overall. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Abbona Di Abbona Marziano e C. Barolo DOCG Pressenda 2019

A cask sample and one quite ready it seems as witnessed by the gregariousness of the aromas. Part dark cherry and part swarthy, full formed and intense. Tight Barolo for Monforte d’Alba, of strong voice and deep intention. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

With Giorgio Boschis

E. Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2019

Lovely aromatic swirl from this Monforte d’Alba Barolo, a nebbiolo of liquorice and black cherry but more than that a full on swell of that fruit mixed with high acidity and heavy tannin. A big example, all in while also well-balanced, especially considering the concentration, extraction and heft. If it seems to miss the deft touch of some cru wines that’s youth talking and this surely impresses in so many respects. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Rocche Di Castelletto 2019

A bit of restraint on this Barolo that wants to be aromatic, no reduction per se but definitely a closed initialization. Plenty of attitude and swagger, confidence and knowhow. Dark cherry fruit for sure and a cool almost minty middle before relenting to a forceful and capable set of tannins. Proper and very correct example from Monforte d’Alba to represent Barolo, nebbiolo and 2019 with great distinction. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Parusso Armando Di Parusso F. Lli Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2019

Aromas are heady and a bit dank, of creosote, graphite and other wood-derived resins that dominate the front. Wet pine and also cedar, orange chocolate and too much oily to sappy intensity. Quite out of whack. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Poderi Fogliati Barolo DOCG Treturne 2019

Solid and correct Barolo from Monforte d’Alba, purely and expressly nebbiolo if a bit over-extracted, boozy and even jammy. Good chewy dark cherry and liquorice though of a sour set of flavours. Persimmon and fig, some over maturity and sliding forward with haste. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Réva Barolo DOCG 2019

Nice citrus display, red and orange, into pomegranate and currants. Tart Barolo with vintage tang, idiomatic of Monforte d’Alba and solid throughout. Getting the roses and the tar, all the right moves, a vintage wine that does things with great correctness. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Del Nebbiolo Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Lovely example of 2019 Barolo with the ethereal aspect of Perno in Monforte d’Alba though also a wine with a highly perceptible presence of wood. The juxtaposition of bright red currant and rosy fruit against vanilla and spice is currently a disparate proposition though time will do wonders to bring the parts together. Will flesh out as a result and surely be a very different wine five-plus years down the road. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Raineri Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Repeatable style it feels, as Perno though fruit here is a darker reddish orange with some earthiness involved. Leads to an easier tumble with the acids in particular but also the level of barrel involved. Integrates well at this early stage and the prospects for a clean and seamless future looks good indeed. Great structure here and a Barolo from Monforte d’Alba that should live well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Schiavenza Di Pira Luciano Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

Funky and separately volatile, overheated and while trying to be a lithe and transparent Perno there is no hiding from the acetic meanderings and wood spice in full on smoulder. Ends up being tart, tight and austere. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Perno 2019

A verdant evergreen dominated Perno from the top, wet pine forest and cool savoury herbals, even a shot or two of Amaro. Similarly styled on the palate, chewy liquorice, blanched fennel and more of the same on repeat. Very tannic. A wine with character though one that is of an idiosyncratic kind. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017

Barolo

Gomba Barolo Boschetti Riserva DOCG 2017

If Riserva smells like Riserva and Riserva acts like Riserva then it must be Riserva. The wisdom in aromatics from experience determine this 2017 as it must, in controlled concentration and of a maturity that speaks to grounding, not evolution. And yet this is just so very 2017 in the earthy but also edgy behaviour, somewhere between rustic and glorious. Clearly haute conditioning for the vintage and a Barolo from Boschetti cru that will live as long as any. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Viberti Giovanni Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2017

Bricco delle Viole and 2017 are stand alone and though we are seeing this two years advanced from current vintage 2019 Barolo there is something about this Riserva that speaks to it having always been this way. Swarthy and woollen that is, but so bloody characterful and with chalky tannins yet to resolve. This is a Barolo of strength that moves with elasticity, bending and stretching, working its muscles and biding time. Another year or so and there will be more elegance involved. Truly complex Barolo Riserva indeed. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 202

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Barolo Riserva DOCG Sarmassa Vigna Bricco 2017

Sarmassa as Riserva is quite intense from 2017, aromatically speaking, indicating a concentration and compacting of rose petals and sweet herbs. A handsome nebbiolo, firm and reserved, wearing a serious face and clearly built for long aging. Perhaps as long as any 2017 Riserva will. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Castiglione Falletto

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017

Giacosa Fratelli Barolo Riserva DOCG Scarrone Vigna Mandorlo 2017

Scarrone out of Castiglione Falletto is a deep one from 2017, of extreme ripeness and an almost brooding character with baritone voice. Very tannic on top of deep, dark and cimmerian fruit, compact and of more density than most. Nothing left to resolve (for the most part) and these next five years will be the best. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rosoretto Barolo Parussi Riserva DOCG 2017

Parussi as Riserva 2017 is the most fruit juicy and accessible of them all. Red berries in the wild strawberry to raspberry with great sour tang and fine supportive acidity. Structure is one and done so drink this wine sooner rather than later. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

La Morra

San Biagio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco San Biagio 2017

Barrel sample so take it with a grain of salt through five-plus years in there should always be plenty to learn and figure out. Bricco San Biagio presents a lithe and transparent nebbiolo, regardless of appellation and this one is all red roses, many of them in a drying state. Lots of perfume but not tremendously complex. Some dried herbs and tannin doing the same. Further time in cask will not do this nebbiolo any favours. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Rocche Costamagna Barolo Riserva DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2017

Once again the resolution is in while the chances for revolution are past. Full and purposed Riserva here from Rocche dell-Annunziata, plenty of formidable tannin and the kind of exercise to speak of traditional values. Wait one more year but the nebbiolo here is well on its way. Time to bottle! Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind from a cask sample at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Monforte d’Alba

Cascina Sot di Sanso Maurizio Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco San Pietro 2017

Grippy, firm and tannic Riserva 2017, transparent and yet elevated in glycerin, minty cool and dried herbal savoury. Yes, particularly tannic stuff here from Bricco San Pietro in Monforte d’Alba, fruit more than ready, structure always in charge. Must have traditional Piedmontese cuisine to make this one sing. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

And then there is Bussia, big and broad, muscular yet of a wide berth and shoulders stretching far and wide. Complexity of aromatics as classic as they come, tar and roses, cherries and leather. Perfectly repeatable on the palate, even keeled despite its tension and grip. A Barolo that is so bloody real and knowable, not one of fantasy and imagination. For the true collector. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Ettore Fontana Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Here the lightest and most transparent nebbiolo known to the Langhe in that triad of origin, for Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 out of Bussia in Monforte d’Alba. See right through this lithe one and use creativity in imagination to consider just how beautiful it surely has too be. The enchantress, the elegance of elegance, body, flesh and bones all perfect and in synch, a relationship between all, as one. A nebbiolo for which place of origin and vines have forged a union to last forever. There is neither rush to begin drinking nor haste to see the future. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cantina Stroppiana Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Bussia is the largest of the crus and so there is no surprise that nebbiolo comes away quite different from producer to producer. This Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 is a darker, richer and more mature one though it’s not necessarily a question of ripeness. Extraction yes and also maceration. Expect both in this ’17 but also some drying tannins, peppery piques and a moment of unresolved sulphites. Really gets into the olfactory. A touch problematic and still needs to settle down. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Barolo Riserva DOCG Bussia 2017

Yet another Bussia unlike the others, here with some mature Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 fruit and a gentle woolliness. Quite tart and chalky, rustic to a pretty notable degree. Tannins are still gritty. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fortemasso Barolo Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2017

Haughty aromatic Castelletto from out of Monforte d’Alba commune matched by a fulsome, glycerin and dark berry set of flavours. A 2017 that’s all in with great ripeness and a cool evergreen middle. Warms at the finish and feels a bit elevated in alcohol but finds peace in maintaining balance. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Anselma Famiglia Barolo Riserva DOCG Adasi 2017, Più Communi

Deep, broad, wide breadth of more than one commune’s fruit composition, classic dark and modern fruit-styled Barolo. In terms of Riserva DOCG 2017 this fulfills the appellate warrant with concentration if not complexity. It will impress on a professional level if not a cerebral one. It’s good don’t get me wrong but not a nebbiolo of either fantasy or soul. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Negretti Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Ambrogio Indio 2017, Roddi

An impressive Barolo Riserva DOCG 2017 because of its balance between concentration and structure with a wildly fresh berry set of aromatics. A Bricco Ambrogio nebbiolo in full open bloom right now, much of its structure exorcized and with acidity marching along every step of the way. A modern iteration drinking really well though with edgy tannins that seek salty protein for best results. Ready for Roddi. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Serralunga d’Alba

Enrico Serafino Barolo Riserva DOCG Briccolina 2017

Briccolina out of Serralunga d’Alba is on the fulsome, opaque and ropey side of nebbiolo and yet there is a litheness of being that allows it to breath quite freely. In others words a Barolo Riserva 2017 spoken though modern vernacular, far away from ancient Piedmointese dialect. Suave and smooth, liquid chalky and just nearing the opening gambit of its play. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Réva Barolo Riserva DOCG Lazzarito 2017

Lazzarito is a conundrum as a cru because the nebbiolo from its Serralunga d’Alba soils can make for strange wines and also those that are simply brilliant. It is the Bourgogne of Barolo, fickle, challenging and of highest potential. This Riserva 2017 finds the great track, in delivery of fine and beautiful fruit, sweetest acidities and essential underlying structure. Both gorgeous and built to last. Extreme modernity too. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007 and Barolo DOCG 2009

Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007, Barolo

Nearly 16 years of age, not exactly a cool or middle of the road vintage and so great showing here from Marchese di Barolo. Impeccably orchestrated nebbiolo in fact with no cru mention but the level of freshness is impressive. Hard to believe in a way, but hey if anyone could have been capable it would be the Marchesi via the famiglia Abbona. Dark raspberry and cherry with sweet reduced balsamic and great persistence. Everything at the right pace in its right place. “Pace!” Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Mirafiore Barolo Riserva DOCG 2007, Più Communi

Age is very apparent, tartufo and balsamic well engaged and freshness a thing of the past. The aspect of this Barolo Riserva 2007 that keeps the pace is acidity and a liquid chalkiness of the tannin, even a bit grainy still. Will gain complexity and interest with another few years as those last two aspects soften, but fruit will always be a thing of the past. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Brezza Giacomo E Figli Dal 1885 Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

A most unique aromatic emission from Brezza’s 2009 Barolo which is truly indicative of traditional winemaking in an era old enough to be considered historical. Very nutty aromas now, roasted chestnut and toasted hazelnut, still chalky and acids working the wine. A faint linger or at least a reminiscence of fresh fruit but mostly kernel and earth at this point. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Casa E. Di Mirafiore Barolo DOCG Paiagallo 2009, Barolo

Quite typical for 13-14 year old Barolo with secondary drifting into tertiary aromas of nuts, earth and spiced vegetals. The mouthfeel here is exceptional and the wood has done well to create this feeling. Some emotion in this wine. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

Giacomo Fenochio’s Cannubi is something completely different as it is compared to the other ‘09s and shares a moment or two with its own style looking forward 10 years to the Anteprima 2019. The fruits are all there; cherry, plum and orange, macerating in their combined juices and so to be such a fruity wine at this age is something special. Spice and balsamic as well but no real secondary push. Lots of wood though with chocolate all over the finish. For the style this has been done really well. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo DOCG Sarmassa 2009, Barolo

Sarmassa remains in very good shape from the 2009 vintage though the warmth has advanced the fruit even beyond that of the 2007 Riserva, all from non specified Barolo commune vineyards. The tartufo has begun too take hold of the aromas, along with wood derived accents like soy and older tar. Smooth as silk to no real surprise and a nebbiolo to drink with braised beef cheek or classic tajarin. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Virna Di Borgogno Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2009, Barolo

And now for something completely different. Barolo DOCG 2009 by Virna di Borgogno is the nebbiolo of highest tonality, of volatility that persists without fully taking over the wine. The tannins are also amazingly persistent all the while there just really isn’t much fruit left in the mix. So much curiosity here. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cavallotto Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2009, Barolo

Bricco Boschis by Cavollotto is a wild thing, a savage of nebbiolo that no other 2009 can touch. By far the most complex Barolo of this retrospective tasting and while it may seem even a bit peppery and woolly there is so much going on you simply do not know where to begin. I would wager that this Barolo is less than halfway into its tenure and the best is yet to come. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2009, La Morra

Fine, mildly funky and surely earthy older Barolo here from Aurelio Settimo of the most traditional and abiding kind. All the expectations are met and aromas extended. From balsamic to soy, toasted nuts to caramelized orange. Very complex, very classy stuff. Plenty of life yet to live. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Gagliasso Mario Barolo DOCG Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2009, La Morra

Quite evolved, creamy and a seriously oaky 2009 Barolo. Sweetness in a way like no other. Drink 2023. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Mauro Molino Barolo DOCG Conca 2009, La Morra

Plum fleshed and spiced, tart and sweet as well, a hallmark of 2009 and when nebbiolo was made this way. Lots of wood and yet that fruit persistence melds well with how much time was spent inside, but also in the kind of barrels used. Showing beautifully and drinking equally so. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Cascina Chicco Barolo DOCG Castelletto 2009, Monforte d’Alba

All chocolate and in so many respects a wine of wood and not much else. At this stage the 2009 Barolo from Cascina Chicco out of Monforte d’Alba’s Castelletto is out of fruit and nearly out of time. Drinks like old wines bathed in barrel will, beautiful for family and friends. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG Le Coste Di Monforte 2009, Monforte d’Alba

Still a touch off reduction which is always quite amazing considering how many years gone by should have left this aspect behind. Toasted nuts and smoked meat define the tone in a nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba that carries its Le Coste cru as a reminder of speciality until today. Famiglia Anselma’s 2009 is showing with haute distinction and kudos to the deft touch. This is an older Barolo in great shape. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Paolo Manzone Barolo DOCG Meriame 2009, Serralunga d’Alba

Meriame by Paolo Manzone still exhibits some red cherry and plum fruit so that is a great positive for a 13-14 year-old Barolo. The persistence in balance and relationship between fruit and acidity is commendable with help by tannins that have all but finished their yeoman work. Finishes with just a few grains but for the most part this wine sings as it was meant to do. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Gabutti 2009, Serralunga D’alba

Sordo Giovanni’s 2009 from Gabutti cru has hit the soft caramel and toffee stage with nary a moment of fruit lingering in the nether. Nuts and spice are there along with pretty persistent tannins, no doubt as a by-product of this hard, rocky and antediluvian terroir on the angular side of Barolo. Still needs years though as mentioned there won’t be fruit around when the time comes to that fruition. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Fratelli Alessandria Barolo DOCG Monvigliero 2009, Verduno

Behold the excellence and power of Monvigliero to plod across nearly a decade and a half of time and emerge with vital energy and fruit, untamed and unscathed. This is terrific nebbiolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s in a really terrific place. Great showing! Drink 2023-2026. Tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Library vintages

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Altenasso 2018

A mix of Castiglione Falletto soils in clay, tufo and calcari prepare this Altenasso for its 24 month stay in grandi botti. A big and broad shouldered nebbiolo, quite glycerin of consistency and well adapted in the face of chaos, challenge and finally the heat of the vintage. Wasn’t simple or easy and the complexities here are a reflection of the stress but the final equation sees a Barolo both clean and pure. Five spice powder makes for some exotica and the tannic texture echoes that dusty and fluffy tufo feeling. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted January 2023

Burzi Alberto Barolo DOCG 2018, La Morra

In 2018 Alberto Burzi decided not to bottle any single vineyard nebbiolo and so all that important fruit has been committed to the classico. All from La Morra vineyards, some vines 85 years of age and other in the 35-40 range. Saw 35 days of cappello sommerso maceration, a technique normally reserved for Capalot, Roncaglie and La Serra. Alberto’s is truly stylish Barolo because he made the right decisions. This ’18 is rich yet elastic and proportionally in balance. Consider it a super cru example of La Morra. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted January 2023

E. Pira & Figli Barolo DOCG Via Nuova 2018

Via Nuova is a blend of three communes fruit: Serralunga, Monforte and Barolo, the latter of which is the home cantina for Chiara and Giorgio Boschis. Winemaking is the same as the Langhe nebbiolo though the Barolo spends two years in 50-50 cask and barriques. From a really warm season and so “2018 is for drinking immediately,” says Giorgio, though that would not likely have been the case six months to a year ago. Has now moved ahead with expedience and prowess, sitting in that proverbial state of elegance and grace. This despite the race to ripeness, inclusive of tannins so sweet, sound and worthy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Alberto Cordero

Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo DOCG Bricco Gattera 2018, La Morra

Alberto Cordero explains how a particular clone provides the smallest of berries raised on the Gattera hill at the centre of his Cordero Di Montezemolo estate. “A really challenging vintage,” remembers Cordero, “rainy in April and May, impossible to walk in the vineyards, very unstable. In June, so much mildew. Then good, dry and hot for the rest of the season. In the end it was stability and balance that exerted the all important influence on richness and juiciness. Clear, equanimous Barolo, of fruit and grip connected by glycerin and sweetness. Not overtly tannic and is already beginning to resolve. From an early 2023 vantage point this nebbiolo is precisely classic. Surely a success created by the work put in, especially in the vineyard back in the early part of the season. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

With Riccardo Bera

Bera Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2017, Monforte d’Alba

Cavalier Bartolomeo Barolo DOCG Fiasco 2016, Castiglione Falletto

Only 700 bottles were produced of this first and still only example of Cavalier Bartolomeo’s Riserva called Fiasco. The word can of course mean the same in English but could also refer to a flagon, carafe or as many remember, the straw wrapped bottles of Chianti. Would think the reference here is more about tension and classic nebbiolo structure out of a vintage overflowing with such features. Only the newest, freshest and toastiest barrels were used yet there is an impressive integration of parts. The mention of Fiasco is fantasy but the fruit source is the same Altennaso cru as that “menzione” Barolo. High calcareous soils lend a lightning streak and strike to this very wooded nebbiolo with great distractive ability. Quality is apposite to quantity in a Barolo of truly singular nature. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2016, Più Communi

A blend of five villages (50 percent Serralunga with Monforte d’Alba, La Morra, Grinzane and Novello) and seven total vineyards. “Please do not call this fucking normale,” pleads Cesare Benvenuto and he’s not joking. There is in fact nothing regular or ubiquitous about this serious and trenchantly purposed cuvée. No pedantic character but instead a going concern of Barolo places. Only 7,000 bottles are made so do the math and understand the problem. Poignancy and nebbiolo so pretty. “For me, from my heart and taste,” says Benvenuto, “in my point of view this is the way to make true Barolo.” Hard to argue when the years have aided and abetted, brought this 2016 to a place where you can feel what makes this vision a reality. Good to go and almost surely for another 10 years in much the same way. Remove the emotion and accept the science. Drink 2025-2032. Last tasted January 2023

A blend of communes for true estate blending business. Rich and developed dark fruit that goes for broke right from the word go. Also major tannins of mean business and some final bitters. No turning back from this one. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2016

Three years later and Bussia is still a baby. There may be some signs of advancement but they are whispers and so it remains status quo for this most statuesque Barolo. So fresh, so stable. Last tasted January 2023

Welcome to Bussia. This is the prudent one, far from promiscuous and very promising. Hides everything and is not so fast to give anything away. The textural components are all together; chew, crunch, soft and crackling. Grooves slowly and changes tempo. Not sure which way it will go but its subtlety and its impression will not be denied. From Monforte d’Alba. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2009

A cuvée of two vineyards, Bussia and Santa Maria, from Monforte d’Alba and Barolo. The word means “more than better” in local Piedmontese dialect and for the Marrone sisters Pichmej is their grandfather Carlo’s Barolo. Spends 30 months in grandi botti to emerge silky and smooth, especially with conditioning having brought this nebbiolo into what is now a fully mature stage. Has entered the drying moments of its fruit years and overall the evolution of tenure is pretty much complete. A lovely position to be in. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

G. D. Vajra Albe Barolo DOCG 2008

A vintage that was picked late and to this day wells with freshness and tension. So intact, tactful and nosing of tar, candied rose petal and liquorice. Frozen in a perfect moment of time, just musky enough to think about roasted meats and also caramelizing vegetables. A thank you to Isidoro Vaira for bringing out this older Barolo that clearly shows challenging it is to assess wines like these when they are so young. Last tasted January 2023.

“Lovely smelling red though at first blind I’m not sure I’d place a heavy bet on it turning up same suit Nebbiolo. Wait, something Piemontese this way comes on the flop; dried roses, nearing potpurri, though covered in a grainy melt of chocolate and wood. A river of tannin and mouth cleansing acidity rounds out the flush. At $40 it’s a good red, if not a fine Barolo. Tasted February 2014

Good to go!

godello

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WineAlign

Twenty-two mind-blowing wines of 2022

Dec22

Godello in the Stellenbosch heather, Reyneke Wine Estate

We are who we are and we choose to live in a world according to wine. Within its walls are endless permutations and revelations, of the dark moments and the light, the romantic entanglements and the failures. We witness cycles of passion, highs and lows, endless accounts of quirky little episodes that reveal how grapes really live under the circumstances of a vintage. How they survive and thrive, eventually turning into the wine they become. A wine’s history is a lovely aside accompanied by a recorded and constructed account through the lens of someone who observes its transformations. We are messengers who take the land, plant and maker into consideration and always abide, recounting the story to those who would choose to listen. According to WineAlign I reviewed more than 3,000 wines in 2022, which means I tasted at least 3,500, if not more. In order to surmise this final list from a shortlist of more than 100 mind-blowing wines it meant another 2,900 are not even in the running and yet surely no less than a quarter are exceptional wines in their own right. That is how difficult, personal and stringent an exercise this annual choosing has become. I find it near impossible these days and yet somehow feel compelled to continue the drill.

Godello in Chianti Classico

The year 2022 afforded multiple opportunities to get back on the road in search of great wines in places across the ponds and beyond. To Tuscany in both February and March, for the for the Chianti Classico Collection and also as chaperone to La Squadra Canadese for a week of exploration throughout the 11 UGAs of the territory. Forever in Chianti Classico included a masterclass presented by Italian wine expert Filippo Bartolotta and Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti titled Il Chianti Classico in 9 Decadi. This year-end summary includes one of those Chianti Classico wines dating back to 1949 but a few more could been here as well, including the fascinating Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico 1958. At Laura Bianchi’s estate the Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 1986 was one to blow my mind, as did Luca Martini di Cigala’s San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo 2018 and VinSanto del Chianti Classico 1998. As a proud, card-carrying Ambasciatore there are dozens upon dozens of Classico and affiliate sangiovese that move me each and every calendar year. Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2018 is an example and just one of many.

After that Tuscan adventure I moved on to Sicily for a five day exploration of The five estates of Planeta earth and my stay turned into two weeks. Covid-19 had caught me and yet the humanity of Alessio Planeta, Patricia Tòth and several winemakers aboard L’Etna turned a challenging test result into many days of discovery and deeper volcanic understanding. In fact L’Etna and Parco Statella saved my Sicilian quarantine. So many producers’ wines could and should be on this list: Azienda Agricola Sofia, Calcagno, Donnafugata, Eduardo Torres, Feudo Pignatone, Girolamo Russo, Graci, Scirto, Tascante, and Vigneti Vecchio. Oddly this was not a year for nebbiolo with likely the least amount of opportunities made available and yet a month from now I will spend 10 days in Piemonte to make up for the absence in 2022. That said there can be no forgetting Réva Barolo Cannubi 2018, from which impartiality is off the table because if you do not fall in love with this Barolo then you are not setting your palate free.

Travels in June and Abruzzo in four-part harmony included a bucket list visit with Emidio Pepe where I found that an unwavering commitment to land is everything that matters in making exceptional and memorable wine. It’s not only what you do but also who you are. Ahead of that trip I had tasted La Valentina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Bellovedere Riserva Terre Dei Vestini 2017, and there can be little doubt that it is a wine that resides at the top of the montepulciano food chain because this Riserva hails from a most specific and important terroir. After Abruzzo and then Rome I moved on to attend the first ever Anteprima for Simply Red: Rosso di Montalcino where the Brunello were set aside for one day only and the 2020 vintage of Rosso got directly under my skin, including Lorenzo Magnelli’s mind bending Le Chiuse Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020. Dieci Anni di Rosso di Montalcino (Ten Years of Rosso di Montalcino) and Selezione di Rosso di Montalcino (Rosso di Montalcino Selection) showed wines of age-ability and purpose; my if Alessandro Mori’s Il Marroneto Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Jacopo 2019 did not blow my mind. A visit with Violante Gardini Cinelli Colombini meant a pour of Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Io Sono Donatella 2015 for the most profound barrel expression of Le Donne’s Brunelli.

Menfi

In October the Cape Wine congress resumed after a four year absence and now more than ever this is what I have to say. South Africa is the most exciting and mind-expanding wine universe alive today. There are no less than 40 Western Cape wines from two dozen or so producers tasted in 2022 that could have made this list: A.A. Badenhorst, Alheit, Beaumont, Boekenhoutskloof, Crystallum, David and Nadia Sadie, Hamiilton Russell, Huis van Chevallerie, Kanonkop, Ken Forrester, La Motte, Leeu Passant, Klein Contsantia, Meerlust, Momento, Mullineux, Old Road Wine Company, Porseleinberg, Raal, Raats, Radford Dale, Restless River, Reyneke, Savage, Sijnn, Storm and The Sadie Family. To name but a few. Other southern hemisphere wines were killer in 2022, namely Torbreck Grenache Hillside Vineyard 2019, a special Barossa block to be sure.

With John Szabo MS and Rosa Kruger at the Old Vines Project tasting

In November a return to Montalcino for Benvenuto Brunello 2022 meant a look at the 2018 vintage but also the Riserva of 2017. At Col d’Orcia the Conte Francesco Cinzano Marone and his son Santiago led yet another vertical tasting, this time on the 8s and it was Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio Al Vento 1988 that stood both out and also the test of time. From Montalcino it was on to Vienna and then a Wagram-Traisental discovery tour that was both too short and mind-expanding – A return must and will happen soon. Meanwhile a tasting at home in the WineAlign office showed this Rheingau gem to the crü. Leitz Berg Schlossberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling Trocken 2019 is grand Rüdesheim indeed.

These are the wines that blew my mind in 2022

Most of all 2022 was a year when associates, colleagues, wine professionals and especially friends reunited to break bread and taste great wines together. At a birthday party I had the opportunity to taste the following in one evening; Château Lafitte 1986, Château Mouton-Rothschild 1986, Chave Hermitage 2010, Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 1999, Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 1990, Dom Perignon 2000, Veuve Cliquot La Grand Dame 1995 to name just seven of 20-plus icons. Bordeaux made several prominent appearances in ’22; Château Margaux 1989 (and 2004), Château Haut-Brion 2012 and Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2012. More importantly in 2022 we shared bottles of all ilk, pedigree and origin, not only the expensive and famous labels but all the great wines, big and small. Thank you to every person who poured, for every sip and taste, with heartfelt thanks. These are Godello’s 22 mind-blowing wines of 2022.

Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Berg 1ÖTW 2021, Traisental, Austria

Highest and coolest vineyard of the Traisental Erste Lage because by three or four pm the forest casts shade over the vineyard. Limestone based soil as well, upwards of 380m and the only portion that has iron rich red elements in the earth. Actually finding a richness in this, surely vintage related and that is unexpected but it’s also the most savoury, minty cool, eucalyptus accented, or the like. Curious by comparison to Alte Zetsen and Zwirch, in what is assessed as almost dark, smoky, spicy volcanic-simulate stuff. Brings whole and utter meaning to grüner veltliner at the Grand Cru level. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2022

Godello with Charla Bosman

Sijnn White 2019, WO Malgas, South Africa

Up above the Breede River there are vines of chenin blanc, viognier, roussanne and verdelho, varieties that have been working towards a common goal, to eventuate at something great. Then 2019 comes along and the world changes. This is the vintage from which David Trafford, Sijnn and winemaker Charla (Hassbroek) Bosman take full reign of their collective charge. To be truthful the agriculture, winemaking and face of the brand is Bosman and were I in the market to hire someone of her passion, ability and professionalism I could not help but remunerate her like a top European footballer. But lucky we all are that she and Sijnn are together because she is at one with this impossible yet absurdly beautiful environment where wines like this White Blend are made and will blow your proverbial mind. They attach themselves and get so close to that personal part of you. Imagine Châteauneuf though I’d much rather consider Malgas because that is what this is. Rich and perfectly viscous, spicy, structured and fine. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2020, Sicily, Italy

From the single vineyard at 730-740m of elevation and vinified in tonneaux. The 2009 was the first vintage of San Lorenzo Bianco for a wine that leads amongst the 80-90 thousand total bottles made by Giuseppe Russo from 18 hectares. A strong selection from the plants of carricante with cattaratto and grecanico. The carricante are the oldest and they provide the breadth in the mouth, the texture in unction and the presence that really makes you feel the vineyard. The difference between it and Nerina is really in the selection of the grapes. Giuseppe wants his whites to speak for his territory, here to be a bit more generous and 2020 obliges first because it was easier and second because it is such a vintage specific to the white wines. Such beauty and emotion is purity and life. No stress and a wine you want to drink. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted March 2022

David And Nadia Sadie Wines Plat’Bos Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland, South Africa

At a tasting where everything is Old Vines Project certified there must be something extraordinary about a wine to stand out from a crowd of greats. David and Nadia Sadie are in fact turning heritage vines chenin blanc (amongst other varietal explorations) into content born of context harboured though never paraded. They are rhythmic and scientific with just enough fantasy and romanticism, but never too much. Plat’Bos stands above Skaliekop and Hoë Steen because 2021 asks it to do so, not because it is better or more important, but it is surely chenin blanc profound. The 1981 Swartland planting is in the steady zone, shed of the mercurial and in ’21 so very linear yet salty of the earth in its sombre-sepulchral tone. There is reduction here because the poor soil nutrients demand that this chenin begins this way. The levels of tension and intensity are most elevated, sufficing to say as high as any from the Western Cape. Attention is paid unwavering to detail, sequencing is in order, purity incarnate, grape and place together pristinely kept. In Plat’Bos 2021 the palate is taken down to the whipping post by a wine built to endure. Given time there will be calm, healing and reward in the end. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted October 2022

The Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Mev. Kirsten Wyn Van Oorsprong Stellenbosch Die Sadie Familie Wyne 2021, Stellenbosch, South Africa

The vines that supply Mev. Kirsten Wyn are the oldest chenin blanc in the country, out of Stellenbosch and planted in 1905. In 1947 every second row was pulled out to make room for tractors and the configuration still exists this way. “If South Africa has a true apex white Grand Cru vineyard then this is it” insists Eben Sadie. Facts are facts are you just can’t accede these levels of power, concentration, extract and tannin anywhere else. The nose communicates as an intoxicant of sublime forces and these grapes bestow chenin blanc 2021 are those that transcend fruit, deliver ethereality and a heightened sense of awareness. An awakening from necessary tension, crisis and personal freedoms, existential off the charts, poetic and epic. One hundred and sixteen stanzas recorded, in the books and the finest verse written right here in the most recent vintage. If enlightenment is to be gained from chenin blanc in the Western Cape, Mev. Kirsten would provide the fodder. “The grail. End of fucking story” concludes Sadie. All hail. Long live the queen. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted October 2022

Iconic Bourgogne

Domaine De Bellene Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots 2020, AC Bourgogne, France

“Suchots” originates from “souches,” the name given to the woods before the land was prepared to house these vines. Les Suchots is but a small 13 hectare part of the larger 220 in total for Vosne Romanée and was first planted in 1937. La Romanée and Saint Vivant are the closest plots, south of Echezeaux, north or Richebourg and though just six per cent of the appellation it is actually the largest Premier Cru Climat therein. The vineyard is divided in two by a road. The eastern part below lays just above the cemetery and the village terroir called Hautes Maizieres. The top part is located below Les Beaux-Monts. The 2019 was a dream, crème de la crème and yet 2020 seems to embrace the powerful vintage with a most extraordinary level of perfume. That and fruit concentrated to a maximum degree without falling into any of the trappings associated with hyperbole. The concept of pinot noir reaching regional levels like this seems counterintuitive to the variety-appellation contract but the balance and harmony at the top is something the likes almost never seen. This will surely be one of the wines that explain with hyper clarity what 2020 is as a vintage. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2022

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2017, Sicily, Italy

Sopra il Pozzo describes a special portion of the signature Arcurìa vineyard (and contrada of the same name), a block “above the well,” 100 per cent nerello mascalese picked in the last week of October. Treated to the same maceration and elévage as the Rosso for the same spontaneous style and time as Feudo di Mezzo. However Sopra il Pozzo’s “refuse” soil composition is different and requires patience in the name of time, due to its alternating layers of decomposed volcanics in stone and coarse sand. This is a section of recast material and the corresponding mascalese is both emasculated and chivalrous. The degree to which layers of fruit, mineral and umami incorporare and completare is finite and contiguous yet also lengthy, scorrevole and endless. There is rare Etna glycerin texture and perfectly timed acid tang. Tempismo perfetto. Grande. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted April 2022

Elisabetta Foradori

Foradori Granato Teroldego 2019, IGT Vigneti Delle Dolomiti, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

Granato from Elisabetta Foradori resides at or near the peak of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine chain, a Dolomite force of varietal nature, richness incarnate and cragged to gain your full attention. Fruit comes at a great premium, not by absence of the heart but because so much site, land and space speak louder than words. A static red stuck in a state of cryogenic freeze, immovable and surely able to handle immobility and also time. Will drink beautifully for a decade and a half, or possibly more. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2022

Garage Wine Co. Truquilemu Vineyard Lot 97 Dry Farmed Old Vines Field Blend Carignan 2018, DO Maule Valley, Chile

The eastern facing side of the Coastal Range where the old vines grow, in places where you had to make wines for the Catholic Church, “to save souls.” The most aromatic of Derek’s wines, a true field blend with a je ne sais quoi of varieties bursting off of dry farmed bush vines. Showy with that combination of outright juiciness juxtaposed against iron-fisted structure. A wine that comes from a place where the farmer worked to break up the “los camellones”, strange diagonal lines drawn and a framer who shows how to separate the land so that making great wine is easier. This is a remarkable example of old, bush and real. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2022

Barone Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico 1949, Tuscany, Italy

Tasted as part of “Il Chianti Classico in 9 Decadi” led by Filippo Bartolotta with Giovanni Manetti at Stazione Leopolda in Florence at the Chianti Classico Collection. The oldest wine in the flight. apropos and just when you consider the Ricasoli heritage and lineage. A mineral layering which instinctively mimics the compaction of argiloso, macigno and calcari from Brolio’s soils, no longer feeling the separation or mille-feuille effect but now just all morphed into one and the same. There were surely some white wines in this mix, as per the formula written decades earlier by Bettino Ricasoli. Probably helped keep the freshness for some time and while this is now all earth and stone the wine is very much alive. There’s even some sweetness and citrus showing, indicative of blood orange some 73 years later, finishing with a trebbiano and malvasia Vinsanto tang. Tasted March 2022

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy

“I did not like Gran Selezione, I did not have anything against Gran Selezione but the discussion about UGA (sub-zones) was already underway so why not wait for this next change to the appellation?” The thinking for Paolo de Marchi was more about the wines that did not qualify for the appellation becoming wines that now qualified, the issue being a new rule could not apply to only 30 or so producers. So what is needed for that to happen? “All grapes born here should be able to travel with a passport.” If it is more complicated than that then there is much more to discuss. A Chianti Classico from a long, linear and fortifying vintage delivers equally appropriate and extending tannins, gripping the composition while proposing to become elegant and fine. The seamlessness and never wavering focus keeps on keeping on, in the ways of emotion in motion. Will remain in bottle one year more before being released to the market. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna La Casaccia 2018, Tuscany, Italy

Great anticipation to taste La Casaccia and Montosoli side by each from a vintage carrying no option but to act out the passion play through the glaring clarity of a sense of place. There are facts involved and there is no hiding the truth formed by these plots of sangiovese in this vintage. By now it is understood how 2018 exists on its own accord at one with nature though Francesco Ripaccioli will tell you there are similarities with 2013, if only because that vintage was greatly ignored and is drinking well at this time. La Casaccia in the località of Canalicchio is the wildcard of Montalcino and tasting several wines from the frazione reveals a collective affinity supplied by the year’s gifts. Nothing was portioned or taken away from the ’18 Annata and yet this Vigna sings with even more range and depth than that wine. The acids are simply out of this proverbial world, the linear aspects drawn with precise architectural or even, in Old English speak, a Cutter’s line. Remarkable reserve in concentration and forward slicing finesse. Forever long. Forever young. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted November 2022

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy

Riserva 2016 is the 42nd such vintage since 1888 from estate vineyards and the oldest parcels therein. Meanwhile olive trees and other compatible local species grow in those places and there always seems to be lower pH and higher bright acidity coming off the grapes. The Federico Radi team seeks to broaden biodiversity with unlimited scope and more vineyards would benefit by following such a plan. When Biondi-Santi gets to their next position we can expect even more refined and higher quality wines. Meanwhile the harmony and extant abilities in this ’16 Riserva are almost impossible to believe. A Riserva of fruit termed as the locus of the points drawn at an equidistant from the centre. Sangiovese of no stops and starts existing on a special kind of ellipse in which the eccentricity is zero and the two foci are coincident. Simple descriptors like crunch, chew or crust are not in the lexicon nor do service to speak about the texture of this remarkable sangiovese. Subtlety and strength, a dappling of early morning light, patterning and shimmering as if on water. The phenolics are spot on, coherent and the connection with both palate and tannins perform as an unbreakable bond. A canvas flooded with colour and while there is a level of transparency there are no white spots. Everything is filled in. Clocks in at 14 per cent abv. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted November 2022

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2001, IGT Toscana Centrale, Tuscany, Italy

Youthful is the proverbial understatement, zesty and full of Panzano life the other. A sangiovese in strike of ideal accord, freshness captured in bottle and development low, easy and slow accrued. Just like the season, stress-free, never too hot, never too wet. Stellar autumn of warm days and retentive cool nights. A late harvest and full phenolic character. It all shows in this 20-plus year-old Flaccianello, singing a ballad, verse after verse, refrain post refrain. After 20 minutes a sweet porcini perfume emits and one wishes for a 50 day dry-aged Chianina Fiorentina. What fortune! Along with the special effects of smoky rosmarino and wild fennochio. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted February 2022

Sassicaia 2019, DOC Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy

Priscilla Incisa’s Tenuta San Guido is located one hour south of Pisa, going back many generations. The surface area covers 2,500 hectares in a “classic Tuscan agricultural estate, of vines, olive oil, cereals including wheat and feed for thoroughbred horses. There are 500 hectares towards the seashore dedicated to a wild life refuge “paradise” free from hunting and for migrating birds coming from northern Europe and heading to Africa, especially because a good part of the land is covered by water during the winter. Before 1994 the appellation was Vino da Tavola. The grand vin Sassicaia is always a minimum 80 per cent cabernet sauvignon (as per the appellation) with cabernet franc. The youthful perfume of Sassicaia is really something other, an invitation to the plume of a great and mighty bird that will soon migrate or not be seen or heard from until another season. The fruit is both wound taut and also layered, a mix of liquids, gasses and decomposed mineral, turning on its axes, literally the earth itself. The effort put in speaks volumes about the quality and yet the seamless transitions are as if there are no transitions at all, only one contiguous entity. Will release in Ontario as an Online Exclusive by lottery on October 20th. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2022

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2002, Abruzzo, Italy

The subtle and gentle elegance of 2002 is almost mystifying, if at least a surprise that kinda hypnotizes. Memory serves up a case of conflict and adversity, if also vintage envy for the bookends of 2001 and 2003. And yet the cool of the night prevails to elongate a montepulciano for our pleasure and make it sing 20 years later. It was also decanted to reduce the lees sediment and then re-corked for our benefit. Words cannot express what a beautiful place this 2002 EP is found to be. It is a treat to taste and also behold, exactly as of right now. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2005, DOC Noto, Sicily, Italy

Finding oneself in a state of utter disbelief upon nosing an older Santa Cecilia has just happened with thanks to this 2005 and the unthinkable aromatics it possesses. There have been some older examples like 2007, 2008 and 2011 which all showed morphological magic but this, this is something other. The state of perfumed preservation is impossible, the floral emanations and fruit continuance implausible and in suspension of belief. The 2005 is almost perfect, dark berries and red citrus alive, acids in perfect condition, wood dissolved, resolved and walked straight out the door. The life and vitality reside in the arena of the flawless, faultless and achievable. This is what nero d’avola, Santa Cecilia, Noto and Planeta can be, at its collective finest. Will drink this way (and also that) for five more years and with ease. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted April 2022

Château Cheval Blanc 1998, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France

The 24 year-old 1998 has been argued and predominantly defended as a Right Bank vintage, especially for merlot based wines, which the 1998 Cheval Blanc happens to be. Clocks in at 65 percent plus (35) cabernet franc and the two combine for hypnotic aromatics to put mind and palate in an immediately dizzying and gratifying tizzy. Dark, dark fruit of the “cimmérienne” kind yet of a grace and genteel manner shared by other profoundly distinguished red wines. Thoughts can wander and wonder as a result of tasting this blind and considering the depth it is nebbiolo that is imagined. Only for a moment because the numerous dual-toned vibrations direct towards knowing this to be a blend and so Right Bank combinations lead by their impression. Both of ’98 Cheval Blanc’s are blessed of ripenesses, acids and structural bones all having peaked at a shared summit. The conclusion can only be a two-part perception, of balance and beauty. Drink 2022-2042. Tasted November 2022

Mullineux Schist Syrah 2019, WO Swartland, South Africa

Vines planted in 1999, mature if still 12 years away from being classified as “Old Vines.” Schist is the home Brownstone Vineyard, shallow and rocky of less than 20 cm of soil. An extreme site in which vines attempt to grow, but so much comes down to the where and how. Rows are close together and planted in an almost race track configuration within an amphitheatre. The roots spread and dig deep within the stripes of schist interspersed with iron and the grapes are harvested plant by plant to create two apposite cuvées. Visually these are small vines with smaller leaves and an airiness – physically speaking. The skeletal backbone here is upright, towering and commanding, the juiciest of varietal fruit hanging as flesh, taut and muscular upon these bones. Unyielding yet never brooding nor astringent, but bountiful and beautiful. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted July 2022

Penfolds Grange 1981, South Australia

Poured blind and easily recognized as a wine of great depth with at least two decades of maturity. Either older or hastily advanced but there are indicators to the former, namely high tones, substantial crunchy acids and full on perfume. There is a touch of Brettanomyces but only a feathery tickle and the wine still has something left to give and also to prove. Great depth is provided by wood notes, of soy, balsamic, wild fennel and all together now a reduction keeping its form, a foxy liqueur, once Cassis but now Amaro, finishing with flavours bloody and gamy. The reveal as Grange 1981 explains that while shiraz is always the game and king it had been a season for which the cabernet sauvignon portion exceeded 10 percent. Winemaker John Duval felt that ’81 was a tannic one but they left the building long ago. Both Barossa and McLaren Vale were involved and so this look back at blending expertise matters in the context of all Aussie blends being tasted today. Being present to be poured a taste of Grange represents good fortune and from 1981 there abides a full and fair suck of the sauce bottle. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted November 2022

Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2019, Passito Di Pantelleria DOC, Sicily, Italy

Ben, as in “son of” and Ryé, a Sicilian riff on the concept of making strong mocker from the wheat grass. Think of grapes instead, in this case zibibbo (muscat of Alexandria) grown off the southwestern coast of Sicily on the Island of Pantelleria. Passito di Pantelleria DOC is one of the world’s great sweet wines, found only on this windswept promontory where the grapes concentrate, drink in the sea and express a view to which only this place commits. The warmest of vintages develops and comprises these particular sugars into something surreal. Extraordinary orange-ginger crème brûlée, perfectly embittered and made viscous in the most natural of ways. Layers of dedication and spice, health affirming herbs, respiratory fixing drops and sweetness captured, effortlessly and to gift plaisir. Apricots ripe and glazed, zen zero limone, giusto intenso. Nearly perfect. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted April 2022

Vintage Port (c) Sarah Goddard/WineAlign

Niepoort Vintage Port 2019, DOP Douro, Portugal

Expect top concentration in Vintage Port from what Niepoort calls a “return to balance in the vineyard” type of season. Summer was unseasonably cool and the timely rainfall on the 26/27th of August was invaluable, allowing fruit maturity to go to completion. A recall to 2008, of natural, acid driven, balanced musts. Foot trodden in circular granite lagares with 100 per cent stems, racked soon after harvest, aged in “tonéis” (large oak vats) in the Douro over the winter, and then moved to the cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia in the Spring of 2020. Acid vintage indeed, fruit caught by circumfuse so as to be surrounded, ignited and eventually dispersed for decades of slow release power. The liquid chalkiness of tannin is so fine-grained you swirl and mull over just how hypnotizing it is. Truly great Vintage Port will act out this passion play. Drink 2025-2048. Tasted October 2022

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Always tasting Italian wines, doin’ allright

Jul5

Toscana

Back in the summer of 1987 I attended the Umbria Jazz Festival in Perugia. This was considered “the benchmark year for Umbria Jazz in terms of the Festival’s appeal, its quality, its ability to combine popularity with exclusivity, with mass concerts in the football stadium and the fantastic evenings inside St. Francis’ church.” The memories of that July 16th to 18th weekend are strong, persistently vivid and what happened there was clearly transformational in my life. Sting had played the weekend previous and though my crew could not stay long enough to see Miles Davis on Sunday the 18th still there were grand moments indelibly stamped upon our lives. Walking the Piazza IV Novembre up to Nicola and Giovanni Pisano’s Fontana Maggiore, drinking in the cafés, Sly and Robbie sitting at the next table. But the highlight happened at the Stadio Renato Curi where Dexter Gordon blew his horn and our minds. The saxophonist was fresh off of a revivalist’s record and hit movie. He was Doin’ Allright, as were we.

Jazz and wine. Two inextricably linked subjects and emotions in the summer of 1987. Now 35 years later I’m listening to Gordon’s seminal record and tasting wine. Time spent Far Niente. Tasting Italian wines from a wide ranging group of producers while paraphrasing from thoughts about the music of the OG big man, with no disrespect intended to Clarence Clemons. Dexter’s life and this group of wines are representative of that kind of size. Their rhythm section plays for the grape, seeming to sense what it wants, following the varietal lead and never falling out of balance. Full toned manner of wines, loping in medium tempo, solos unhurried, logical, warming and full of Italian melodies.

Umbria, July 1987

There are white wines that play beautifully and pensively while others pick up the mood by spinning out solos, staying texturally relaxed and thoughtful, ending with some perfumed chords. There are short bits and interludes but ultimately the way these wines handle their ballads is an indication of their length and depth. They know what it’s all about. The reds are at times wines of catchy and contrasting themes but they truly know how to build a solo. In today’s warming climate they climb up in temperature, chorus after chorus, until finally they satisfy at their apex. There are moments when the reds seem to be skipping and marching, alternating between funky riffs, leaping rhythmic figures and brightly lit burning flames of fruit and acidities. They build more slowly to climax while expanding in tones and for longer periods of time. There are chordal explorations in reds, blacks and of course blues. What connects them all is underlying substance in waves and weaves throughout each ensemble. Tasted consecutively or together theses wines all prove to be mutually significant. Thank you to Ira Gitler for the inspirational notes, to Stefania Tacconi and the prodcuers for sharing their wines.

Inama Vin Soave Classico DOC 2020, Veneto

Anything but entry-level from the grape garganega once known as Graecanicum grown in the basaltic lava, volcanic tuffs and orizzonti rossi. About as correct and defining as it gets for Soave, yellow and green floral, fruit recall more of the same and then the volcanic rock alterations that give the mineral-salty feel. While there might be a wish for a little bit more complexity and grape spirit there is some gelid to viscous texture in this 2020. In any case Inama’s is well made, educational and right on the varietal money. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted March 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Favorita DOC 2020, Piedmont

As for white wines from Italy’s northern climes there are those that speak to many and then there is the “favorita” of others, the varietal Piedmontese white for the dreamers and the romantics. This from Abrigo out of Diano d’Alba avoids the bitters, pith and boozy thiol moments to instead capture all the white flowers and more. The scents are fruity over metallic and clean instead of waxy. There is precision and most importantly a toothsome grace over the palate that brings you back for more and more. A picnic in the hills, a chilled glass after the day’s movement and the scent of dusk. That is favorita when it’s right. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted March 2022

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Deaetna 2019, Sicily

Terra Costantino’s is from Contrada Blandano in the Comune Viagrande, on soils sabbie di matrice vulcanica, a blend of carricante and catarratto, three to one, at 500m, part bush vine and part spurred cordon. Were the flinty smoulder the only beautiful thing going for this Etna Bianco it might almost be enough but the gelid and sweetly ripened fruit takes every moment to a higher caste and level. The thought of these wines being honeyed is not all that common and yet he we are, aromatically speaking, lemon meringue and curd, angel food cake, with the barrel impart knowable in vanilla and light caramel terms. A metallic feel as well, pure platinum gold, texture and some age already put behind. Not so typical but curious and highly enjoyable nonetheless. A drink now chardonnay or chenin blanc alternative that will begin to oxidize in a couple of years time. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted May 2022

Poggio Argentiera Morellino Di Scansano DOCG Bellamarsilia 2020, Tuscany

High-toned in 2020 with a marked level of volatile acidity and good if not maximum ripeness from sangiovese grown either in a (relatively) cooler year near the (Maremma) Tuscan coast. It would seem the winemaker is also looking for restraint and maintaining positive acidity because at this low level (13.5 per cent) of alcohol the resinous and stemmy nature of sangiovese is duly noted, if also accentuated. Texture is a bit chalky, almost grainy and the tannins throw a touch of green. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted May 2022

Usiglian Del Vescovo Il Barbiglione 2015, Terre Di Pisa DOC, Tuscany

From estate grapes in the Pisa DOC and from a winery also producing wines both coastal and in Chianti appellations. Centred around syrah with small percentages of cabernet grown in greyish, dry, shallow, sandy soil with some clay, lime and fossils. A bright, currants and other red fruit syrah with notable tang and wood resins. A touch pectin sappy while satisfying and complete. Held back to tame its wild side and drink upon purchase. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted June 2022

La Regola 2018, Toscana Rosso IGT

A place of Etruscan origin just five kms from the Tyrrhenian Sea at Riparbella in the Cecina Valley. The vineyard lays within the Montescudaio DOC at 150-200m with soils described as Mediterranean with an abundance of stones. La Regola’s (the rule) is varietal cabernet franc, abundant, heady and as compared to the blended reds, so unfettered and uncluttered. The varietal purity is expressly coastal, of saltiness, algae, seaweed, tar and fruit so much more than a plenty. This is truly a stylistic and a place that makes wines just like this here screaming with clarity and truth. There seems to be little doubt that cabernet franc fits, unlike sangiovese, syrah or cabernet sauvignon. Franc is the signature red and 2018 announces its success. The structure, unimpeded drive and length confirm the pronouncement. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2022

Boscarelli Vino Nobile De Montepulciano DOCG 2019, Tuscany

Boscarelli is a name to conjure with, a producer from Montepulciano as direct and exciting as a communicator of sangiovese emotion as any, consistently declarative in attack. Case in point this 2019 though with the added advantage of a most generous and unselfish vintage. Fruit comes from estate vineyards in the parish or pieve of Cervognano, one of 12 newly minted UGAs, a.k.a. unità geografiche aggiuntive. These additional mentions for the overall appellation give us the consumer a more pinpointed sense of place and in Boscarelli’s world the vines were planted in the late 1990s. Depth burrows in an endless seeking of mineral wealth while highlights rise unencumbered, defying gravity and setting this local sangiovese free. When sangiovese does both it’s a bit of a revelation and in Montepulciano the truth is not always easy to come by. The wines can make you work for your pleasure and this 2019 gifts it freely. Drink now and for the next 10 years. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted May 2022

Il Bocale Montefalco Rosso DOC 2018, Umbria

The Umbrian work of i famiglia Valentini based around sangiovese accented by the local sagrantino, then merlot and colorino. Unequivocally balanced if not quite the increasingly generous vintage that will follow in 2019. The succulence and juiciness of the Montefalco Rosso appellation is captured with precise and succinct advantage and done so without any due stress or adversity. The fruit spreads with ripples into fine acidity and supple tannins like a large rock dropped into a pool of water. The rock disappears but the fluidity and gentle set of wakes linger on, ever so slowly decreasing their size and intensity. Bocale’s ’18 is an effortless Rosso, aromatic, flavourful and elastic. This is just what a top producer knows how to do. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted June 2022

Il Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2016, Umbria

From the Valentini family dating back to 2002 and a varietal sagrantino of the highest selection. “Bocale is the dialect word that indicates the two litre mug of wine or oil, but, above all, the name with which this family from Montefalco has always been identified.” From the most democratic of Montefalco vintages, long, studious and just, indeed a wine giusto e completo, time having settled the once formidable tannin and connecting the early unconnected parts. A wholly unique profile, indicative of tar, dark chocolate and espresso yet subtly so, with an allowance of many complexities to join the parade. Quite special in so many regards. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Il Palio, Siena, July 1987

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Tuscany

Grande Gaiole compass, cinch and girth in naturally swarthy sangiovese from Riecine in 2019, crunchy and tart. Inching up towards the volatile but such is the word in pace for the vintage. The fruit can handle the stark reality and veritable truth, equipped with grip and ready for the inevitable circumstance. Maybe wait a year for further resolution. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Villa Di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2017, Tuscany

Consistently presents with an evolved aromatic tendency as it breathes maturity into every phrase it plays. The jazzy mix of violet, spice cupboard and freshly baked earthenware speaks in open and knowable truth for a wine so upwardly representative of a DOCG with roots dating back to 1716. That is when Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany granted exclusive status to Carmignano at the same time he did so for the Classico territory of Chianti. Was not the easiest vintage to deal with and yet this is one of the Tuscan stars what with the piquant yet elastic spice condition rolling off of the palate with sage, fresh tobacco, finnocchi and tartufo. Deals with 14.5 per cent alcohol without adversity while modelling symbiosis between sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. Hard to do much better with the aridity and warmth, breathe life and plan for five-plus more years of pleasure. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022

Azienda Agricola Reassi Sparviere 2018, Colli Euganei Cabernet DOC, Veneto

Reassi’s two-thirds cabernet sauvignon and one-third cabernet franc comes from the Padova area in the Veneto, famously home to some of Giotto’s most profound and important 13th/14th century frescoes housed in the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The estate’s 1997 planted wines are located in the zone of Carbonara di Rovolon, harvested near the end of September and only 3,500 bottles are produced. This is a cheeky cabernet at the lead for the Colli Euganei DOC, full of sweet tar and tobacco, petrol in cars, wood resins, fruit from pods that grown on trees and really quite bright in disposition. How can you not adore the vitality and low alcohol proposition (12.5 per cent) plus this genteel pectin and glycerol feel. “Oh, it’s magic, Uh oh, it’s magic. Just a little magic, you know it’s true.” Drink 2022-2025. Tasted May 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barbera d’Alba DOC Marminela 2019, Piedmont

At the DOC Barbera level it would be hard to find another example so open, forthright, up front, bright, getable and delicious than this Marminela by Abrigo. Classic interpretation indeed yet without rustic strings tethering it to the past, instead expressive of a freedom to explore. Here barbera throws aside traditions in a spirit of experimentation. This is a blend of grapes from two vineyards in the municipalities of Grinzane Cavour and Diano d’Alba and aging takes place for nine months in concrete vats. Freshness is dutifully captured, preserved and the barbera perseveres. Will drink this way for two, maybe even three full years ahead. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted June 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barbera D’alba Superiore DOC Rocche Dei Frisu 2018, Piedmont

Rocche dei Frisu is Abrigo’s top end, purest expression of barbera, from vineyards in Diano d’Alba and also nearby. The sites range in elevation between 230-360m, on clay-based soils mixed with sand and limestone, depending on the block. The name could mean “cones of frieze” in the literal sense but probably a name given to a hill of natural architecture that when looked at from afar there would be some sort of illusory effect. As in art, whereby a trompe l’oeuil or trick of the eye is created by a broad horizontal band of sculpted or painted decoration. In any case the barbera in this bottle does the exact opposite with its openly blatant and striking set of ripe fruit, varietal acidity and full throttle potency. Not shy to be sure, nor heavy neither but there is power contained within this bottle. Even after nearly four years the Frisu does not relent and as a member of the Alba Superiore fraternity the representation is bang on. Plenty of stuffing will see this through to the end of this decade. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted May 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2019, Piedmont

Marked valuation in animal musk through the masculine scent of Abrigo’s nebbiolo from Diano d’Alba, a parochial example equally rich in classic DOC notes. Only the nebbiolo from Alba’s territory smells and tastes like this, accentuated by wood with spice infiltration inside and out. The animal magnetism is captivating, as much as the barrel accents are condiments to the fruit and earth that fill up this nebbiolo. Quite tight for 2019, needing some time, acids equally taut and being open three days helped immensely. Be patient with this Alba, it will reward those who are. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted June 2022

Abrigo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Ravera 2017, Piedmont

Diano d’Alba producer of a Barolo in the municipality/cru/MGA of Novello. Meets the specs of Tortonian soil, laminated Sant’Agata fossil marl, in other words calcareous clay, deeply entrenched, at 400m, vine age ranging 20 to 35 years. Fifty per cent is treated to long skin maceration i.e. cappello sommerso and despite the aridity and heat of 2017 there is freshness captured in Abrigo’s Ravera. Luminous and immediately spicy, a piquancy of pure nebbiolo spiked by time, vintage and lastly barrel. Amazingly persistent Barolo, full, substantial and in charge. Must give this three more years to integrate and allow us to grow as tasters, eventually to be ready and willing to enjoy this wine. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted June 2022

Tenuta Di Pietrafusa Villa Matilde Avallone Fusonero 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania

Varietal aglianico from the Taurasi DOCG and a producer that also fashions top quality wines at IGT Campania prices coming in at under $20 CDN. This top drop comes from the production zone of Montemarano e Paternopoli off of vines planted in 1968 and 1985. The first commercial vintage was 2004 and so here in the 12th iteration is a most generous vintage from which the best of all worlds is accessed. The world of aglianico is reached earlier than that which hesitantly emerges out of some hard, at times sufferable and surely tannic vintages. Here the fruit is nearly up front, artistically open and and even playing with musical swagger. There is room for all the aglianico because they provide the opportunity to enjoy the standards, originals and forward thinking examples. Fusonero is a delightful combination of all three and for that we are grateful. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted June 2022

Good to go!

godello

Tuscany

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WineAlign

Yearning for the Langhe

Jan4

Godello in Cherasco

My kingdom for an Albese plate of Tajarin at Osteria dei Sognatori or a platter of Plin at Ristorante La Libera. What a wine writer would not do for a Langhe reprise, a Piedmontese redux, a tasting of any Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Dogliani, Alba or Langhe Barbera and Nebbiolo, Langhe Roero Arneis, Na’Scetta e Favorita. Were things normal and they most certainly are not, but were life being lived now as it was one year ago we would be convening in Alba in two weeks time. What I would not give to break bread with a winemaker, colleague or friend in Piemonte.

Mark these words. The two specialized and specific DOCs of Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo will gain prominence and become a two-headed beast in 2021. The world will gather to exult, raise up and drink these fine and vastly underrated examples of classified nebbiolo. Of this I became truly privy to one year ago but also throughout 2020 as more and more nebbiolo came to be assessed across my desk. Yes it was back in January 2020 when I travelled to Alba in Piemonte for Nebbiolo Prima 2020 and Grandi Langhe. I tasted more than 600 nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, arneis, freisa, chardonnay, pelaverga and even riesling during the eight day work staycation. Grande.

Grandi Langhe 2020

Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe Trade Fair are a back-to-back cumulative by the work of many, not the least of which are organizations such as Consorzio Albeisa, a.k.a Unione Produttori Vini Albesi, Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Consorzio Tutela del Roero and Regione Piemonte. During that trip I tasted and reviewed 230 Barolo: DOCG 2016 (197), Riserva DOCG 2014 (6), DOCG 2006 (20) and Riserva DOCG 2004 (7). For Barbaresco the number was 92: DOCG 2017 (59), DOCG 2015 (15), DOCG 2015, 2007, 2009 and 2005 (18). As for Roero DOCG, 38 notes: DOCG 2017 and 2016 (33) and DOCG 2006 and 2007 (5).

Here’s to hoping for a return at any point in 2021, or in 2022 for the 25th Nebbiolo Prima followed by Grandi Langhe, if that’s how it will be. In the meantime here are 44 further reviews of wines tasted in and around Alba back in January, 2020. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Barbera d’Alba DOCG, Verduno Pelaverga DOC, Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC, Langhe Favorita DOC, Roero Arneis DOC, Langhe Rosato DOC, Vino Rosso and Birbét. Care Langhe, spero di tornare presto.

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC

Diego Morra Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC 2016

F.rom northern facing vineyards that receive no direct sun so essentially a cool Langhe climate. Nebbiolo that sees a short maceration and French wood. Not your everyday or expected nebbiolo in a really light and transparent style. Extremely fresh and refreshing, taut, high-toned and yet this creamy texture. Richer than half-and-half, perhaps like 20 per cent fat though lactose free and not enough to be whipped. So different. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Nebbiolo d’Alba Doc Bric Merli 2017

From the vineyard directly in front of Bric Volta. A lighter, but far from unstructured nebbiolo with a new and certain grace and still unmistakeable Canale DNA. Here you can mark another reference point, not to mention the genetic and torch passing material provided by 650 years of history, information and accumulation in experience. The demeanour is confident and gracious. Who would not want a glass every night? Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC Parigi 2017

Comes from the same type of marly soil as the barbera, here out of vineyards located in the villages of Alba and Diano d’Alba. The vines are around 20 years of age and the wine sees one year in (30 per cent new) American 40L and French 30L barrels. The idea is to draw out soft and elegant tannins, especially by the American oak. That much is true in a nebbiolo heading towards that direction though not quite yet there. A return in two to three years should do the trick. Drink 2021-2024. Tasted January 2020

Nebbiolo Langhe DOC

Elvio Cogno Nebbiolo Langhe DOC Montegrilli’ 2018

A name taken from Valter Fissore’s grandfather’s vineyard in the Roero, not Barolo and yes this is a nebbiolo and a wine to drink. Immediately gratifying in so many ways. From vineyards on the other side of Novello, southwest exposure and very sandy soil with just a minor amount of sandstone. Fragolina di bosco and white raspberry, a juicy wine that can quench your thirst. Just a minor grip and chalk of tannin. Hardly causes any confusion and allows you to sip and sip and sip. Grill some fish and Montegrilli’s your friend. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2018 ($27.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

From two vineyards, one in La Morra (estate) and one in Roero. Less than a year in old, large barrels and a purposeful one, for early and often drinking enjoyment. Bright fruit, easy, forward and will surely solicit many a happy palate for dual-drawn, doubling down pleasure. Floral, well made and proper. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Bollito Misto, Sinio

Azienda Agricola Taverna Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018

Declassified nebbiolo from Barbaresco with mildly candied fruit, slightly oxidative, but charming. Only been in bottle maximum one month. Drink 2020. Tasted February 2020

Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2018 (454017, $32.95, Le Maitre de Chai)

Youngest vines in the Basarin Vineyard at 18 years old grown in sand and clay at the foot of Neive. The Langhe nebbiolo sees 20-30 days on skins (as opposed to 30-40 for the Barbaresco), ferments naturally and at low temperatures. Glaring as a vintage with a big grin on its face, unprecedented concentration, healthy extraction and completed by elevated dry extract. Incredible intensity for the appellation, something already noted in 2015 but bears repeating, like a mantra, for kicks, compliments, giggles and kudos. The Piedmontese maceration brings so much texture and chromatic accents; tangerine, vermillion, sorrel and umber. Longer maceration, less wood (four months) and no love lost for aging, not to mention waxing rhapsodically on. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted January 2020

Osteria dei Sognotori, Alba

Barolo DOCG

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Pichemej 2015

Pichmej is a combination of two vineyards, Bussia and Santa Maria, what Valentina and sister’s Serena and Denise Marrone call “our grandfather’s wine.” Who happened to be Carlo. A nebbiolo that you really can drink now but then again that’s the thing about young Marrone Barolo. They and this ’15 Pichmej display a sense of the ethereal in their youth. Nature in conjunction with nurture, a delicate touch and phenolic regulation to near perfection. If you would like to access the portal into the reality of how nebbiolo needs to be made in modern times then begin right here and know what’s what in 2020. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted January 2020

Agricola Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2015

Compared to Pichmej this nebbiolo from Bussia is a step up in concentration and also structure, the latter being in kinship with Bussia 2016. That said there is absolutely zero compromise to the stylistic execution that makes for a Marrone Barolo. Simulates the phenolic beauty of Pichmej and of ’16 but the fullest, deepest and most complete journey happens here. Enologist Donato Lanati has coaxed the fruit but not the bitters while the sisters Marrone find excellence in completing Bussia and all the rest. Lightness of being is also accrued while the wine clocks in at a hidden 15 per cent alcohol. Magic happens and success follows. Drink 2021-2029. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG Baudana 2015

From Serralunga d’Alba and the apposite Barolo cru, forceful, grippy, demanding, always mired in posit tension tug. That alone explains no differing opinion but pay attention to the kind of “tensione” Adelaide’s creates. The numbered beats are off, out of time, or at least not understood in fours, yet orchestrated and aligned as they should be. As in five or taking the fifth, with a spoonful of notes, lines, vocalizations and structural arrangements feeling like they are unanswered. A vintage that men are dumbfounded by but girls can tell. Baudana is a hyper real get together of brushy aromas, dedicated flavours and highly functional architecture. This one stretches and creates an elastic musculature, flexible and persistent. Wouldn’t mess with Baudana. Drink 2020-2031. Tasted January 2020

Simone Ortale and Giuliana Drocco, Cascina Adelaide

Cascina Adelaide Barolo Riserva DOCG “Per Elen” 2014

A blend of two cru and says Simone Ortale “we choose the best to make Riserva. It’s our jewel.” The same grandi botti (as per Preda and Cannubi) but here 62 months of aging time. The most mouthfeel, filling and the silkiest chalky liquidity, tannins and layering of multifarious, mille-feuille multiplicity. A nebbiolo for the decades. Drink 2022-2035. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo DOCG Gomba 2015

A smooth, elastic, stretched and elongated nebbiolo from the Commune of Barolo and Boschetti’s estate fruit. Drawn off of the higher reaches and also some that is sold to Marchesi di Barolo. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2015

Sernìe is the cru inside the cru, a selection within the selection and a word in Piedmontese dialect that essentially means just that. Surely the richer, more concentrated, fully stretched, entirely elastic and truly elongated nebbiolo. Has the violets, purple fruit, foie gras and decadence. Drink 2021-2032. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Boschetti Barolo Riserva DOCG Sernìe 2012

This older version of the cru within the cru comes from a very select parcel and as an estate flagship nebbiolo is only produced in select vintages. The formidable 2012 season made a request that winemakers (in this case Maurizio Delpero) did not try to extract too much fruit which would also mean an excess of tannin. Yet Boschetti’s Sernìe was subjected to a Piedmontese 40-day maceration (a cappello sommerso), a classic technique that eight years later establishes an exaggeration of nebbiolo riches. Was also a generous vintage that saw to healthy fruit and quantity. Serious Barolo right here. Drink 2020-2030. Tasted January 2020

Crudo – La Libera, Alba

Diego Morra Barolo DOCG 2015

From the river between La Morra and Verduno, two plots with separate soils and expositions to combine for a double cru cause and effect. Balanced and dynamic, a nose of power meeting finesse. No winding or cinching but more a zig-zagging, ying versus yang, AC-DC, nebbiolo going both ways. Lovely spice. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barolo DCOG Monvigliero 2015

From four hectares in the Verduno cru and the three Ms, Mosca, La Morra and Monvigliero. The V in the middle is for Verduno. The 2015 nebbiolo is a really pretty one, floral and understated but of obvious power. Near formidable in its restraint with bursting a real possibility at any near moment. Not quite there yet but it’s coming, it’s real, leaving meaning. “In a room made of stone your future was made.” Wait for it. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Bricco Pernice 2015

Ages three years in wood, one year further in barrel. One hundred per cent Lampia clone. A little bit more classic in terms of what is Barolo. The partridge is a special hill and a place that gives away these highly specialized nebbioli and 2015 is on the border between a red and a black vintage. More black then red. A vintage that will be so right and so joyous in middle age and ideal for salty (aged) cheese and meat. Splendido nebbiolo. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted January 2020

With Valter Fissore

Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera DOCG Vigna Elena 2014

Rosa clone of Ravera, not quite yet released (will be in three months), dedicated to daughter Elena. A registered menzione geografica named many years ago so the size on the label is set above the DOCG. More of a Bourgogne style. Rose petals and potpourri. Red fruit and red citrus so obviously a red year. Cured like salumi, bresaola maybe or at least eat some alongside. A touch vegetal and that is ’14, sun-dried vegetable and yes, like pinot noir. The first vintage was 1997. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted January 2020

The quality of the wines gives everyone at Mauro Sebaste every reason to smile

Mauro Sebaste Barolo DOCG Cerretta 2015

Less weight and density in 2015, both in Serralunga fruit and also tannin. Much interest here in how it intimates the richesse of ’16 but not the youthful aggression of the tannin. More freshness, linearity and understanding. No hard edges, really easy to like and enjoy and enough grip to see it develop nicely over the next seven plus years. Might even last longer than imagined. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barolo Riserva DOCG Ghè 2014

Ghè is the Riserva of Cerretta fruit but only the smallest berries are chosen. A mega clonal version per se, a Cerretta of Ceretta. Celebrates and argues the merits of a challenging vintage, spends 36 months in tonneaux and like the Cerretta there is pure and substantial fruit. Acidity and tannin too, more than you might imagine considering the wood. Tension and grace live side by side and this is just beginning to act like it will for its essential and optimum 10 year window. Drink 2020-2029. Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Del Commune Di Serralunga d’Alba DOCG 2016

A true commune Barolo drawn off of a scattering of vineyards, a Serralunga liqueur warming, comforting and reliable, plus a vintage tannin more stringent and yet to crack. Spent two years in grandi botti plus six further months in bottle. Of roses and tar, youthfulness and tension aboard a nicely balanced and upright frame. Drink 2021-2029. Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barolo Riserva DOCG San Bernardo 2013

The “oriental plot,” from the other side of the Ornato cru and a nebbiolo to speak of extended elévage just as it should. Now into a balsamico cadence and a tartufo lilt. A matter of funghi, acciuga and back to that truffled sensibility. So much umami, the anchovy sitting like a salty and briny slice of maritime butter on toasted crostini with shavings both pencil and earthen nuggets in origin. Oh how the feeling of the block and the greater Piedmontese emanates from one glass of Barolo that only San Bernardo seems capable of gifting. The secondary nature of this nebbiolo is astonishing, if like Christmas come early but why not celebrate now? Should keep developing, morphing, giving again and again. Drink 2020-2030. Tasted January 2020

Renato Ratti Barolo DOCG Marcenasco 2004 (713479, Halpern Enterprises)

Has quite obviously rounded into form, now beautifully rich and preserved. Poured from magnum yet showing all of its age, fruit sweetly hanging in the balance and as a whole an elegant nebbiolo worthy of the reference. Drink 2020-2024. Last tasted January 2020

Of the famiglie Pola e Ferro is polar as compared to the non of the Burdin. AM and D nose “car exhaust.” I am tricked by its charm and think New World Syrah, but am reminded that the colour lacks gloom. Hugely muscular, girded by plastron and decades ahead of itself. “Leave it open all night and it’ll be amazing” says Dr. C. Tasted April 2012

Cherasco

Barbaresco DOCG

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbaresco DOCG 2017

Comes from one vineyard, the top part of the hill, Gaia Principe it’s called, one of four that make Barbaresco in the MGA. Quick maceration, only seven days, not very Piedmontese and because the house tradition is to make wines to drink and drink now. A very fresh nebbiolo, sweetly perfumed, clear, pure and precise. Drink this most days. No good reason not to. Drink 2020-2025. Last tasted February 2020

Very ripe and organized, developed and heading forward with great haste. Acids are brighter than some so there is light streaking through the Neive vintage darkness. Another example that speaks to the great variability in 2017. Drink 2020-2024. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Barbera d’Alba DOCG

Cascina Adelaide Vigna Preda Barbera d’Alba 2016

Same vineyard as the nebbiolo for the Preda Barolo but here the barbera fruit is notable deeper and darker. Spends up to 18 months in big barrel and high acidity for Alba with just the right and deft touch of necessary volatile acidity. Rich, luxurious and lovely. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Cascina Adelaide Barbera D’alba Superiore Docg Amabilin 2016

Named after the creator himself Amabile Drocco who as a child was called Amabilin. The name chosen for the wine pays homage to the family’s origins. The yields are ridiculously low (half a kilo per vine) from 3,000 kg per hectare that represents half of the consorzio’s disciplanare rule. So concentrated and a true gem in the Adelaide portfolio, in fact this is truly one of the tops in all of what is labeled Superiore. Includes eight to ten per cent Barolo fruit but not that which might end up as DOC Nebbiolo. High acidity again (as with the Preda) and ultra special tannins. Only 2000-2300 bottles are produced. Drink 2021-2029. Tasted January 2020

Diego Morra Barbera d’Alba DOCG 2016

Roddi is the source and direct sun exposure provided for a terroir-varietal relationship that is necessary when you consider acidity rates, ripeness measurements and structural assets. Here barbera gets into beneficial bitters, speaks with assuring alacrity and extolls the virtue of a mainly steely exterior. Really spirited, fresh and alive. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Bricco Dei Merli 2017

Single vineyard, aged for one year in wood. The hilltop of the blackbird and a wine nosing succinctly of black cherry. No way this is simply the wine of the osteria or the honky tonk bar. The maturation here is set so high on both fronts, first sugar and then phenolic. Acidity is supportive and there is no burn. There is no jam. What shows is body strength, spirit and a soft finish. Comes from elevation where the wind blows and you can feel the cool breeze running in the veins, like cool water. Picked late September and we are thankful for that. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted January 2020

The view from Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba DOC Pre Phylloxera 2018

Pre-Phylloxera because of these barbera vines’ ability to survive with thanks to sandy soil and 500m of elevation. A red soil that was not inhabitable to the louse. The vineyard is rented from Marcarini and Valter likes to farm it to to keep the history of his family’s work alive. Lower acidity, higher concentration and an affinity with northern Rhône syrah. Cool, smooth, silky, crystal clear and the pinnacle of barbera beauty. Incredible texture. Only 2,000 bottles made. Drink 2021-2029. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera d’Alba DOC Giardono 2018

From a single vineyard, eight yearsold and aged in concrete, for a reductive environment and more important a low, natural and slow ferment. A rich deep cherry barbera to be fair, sure and completely honest with a modernity of acidity that belies the reasons why barbera fell out of favour and became hard to sell. This will do the yeoman work to continue the resurrection. A spice market from a time gone by connects Giardino to a loyal and traditional wine. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted January 2020

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Barbera D’alba DOC Mezzavilla 2015

From 75 year-old vines in the Mezzavilla Vineyard, located between the villages of Cisterna (towards Asti) and Canale. Just a few percentage points of oak because the fruit demands it and concrete will keep freshness but doesn’t quite do enough for this fruit. Such a soothing acidity and a presence that speaks to the sand and the clay of the land from whence it came. Taste this fruit and you will understand. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Mauro Molino Barbera d’Alba Doc “Legattere®”‎ 2017 ($24.95, Le Sommelier Inc.)

A selection of barbera vineyards of soils calcareous/clayey, maceration of six days, fermented in steel, aged in French oak. Just a classic, pure red fruit, high acid and smooth texture/tannins. Round flavours, big yet somehow understated. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted January 2020

Mauro Sebaste Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Centobricchi 2016

On the hill just above Alba on the way to Serralunga, of low yields that produce just about one bunch per vine. Spends one year in new French oak to gift spice, savour, silk and palate fineness. High acidity, at times too high but necessary to foil the hedonism. A piqued and plentiful barbera that in the end comes down to farming. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted January 2020

Palladino Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOCG Bricco delle Olive 2017

Big barbera, 15 months in (50 per cent new) tonneaux with violets and spice smothering all else. Despite the enormity of it all this is barbera in a balanced varietal world and Bricco delle Viole is clearly a Superiore terroir from which to approach with great ambition. All assets are encouraged and flaunted within the grand scale of this particular Alba spectrum. Will improve with some further wood integration. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2020

Azienda Agricola Taverna Barbera d’Alba DOC 2018

The red fruit juiciest and most succulent Barbera d’Alba with great acids. Make you wish more varietal wines like this would align, draft and glide alongside. Fresh and just lovely. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted February 2020

Verduno Pelaverga DOC

Diego Morra Pelaverga DOC 2018

Diego Morra’s pelaverga ’18 is clear, concise and pure, lying with a varietal heart at its most effusive. Prim as is imaginable while a big expression for a light and silken grape. From a “normal,” manageable and consistent vintage. A wine executed with molecular gastronomy to an end forged by a grape-wine relationship. Social, artistic and technical pelaverga, investigating the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur in farming and then, winemaking. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted January 2020

Vino Rosso

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Donna Costanza Cardunaj Vino Rosso 2017

A digestif wine, a Brachetto vinified dry and so curious. A dessert wine with no fizz and just a touch of sweetness. A moment’s Amaro bitters but no sense of liqueur. Odd to be sure. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Pas Dosè Método Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualita

A 50-50 nebbiolo and arneis mix, seven years on the lees, from the 2012 vintage and disgorged in October 2019. Yes you read this properly, seven years on lees. The Malabaila connection to the Esterhazy royalty in Austrian indirectly bridges two estates and you can’t help but think about the Blanc de Blancs made in the Burgenland. Zero dosage means lean, direct, sharp and energetic bubbles with remarkable precision. These are Grandi Langhe bubbles from Roero, not to be missed. First vintage was 2010. Can’t be Millesimato because it’s a blend. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted January 2020

Langhe Rosato DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Rosato DOC 2018

From Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila with perfectly typical Rosato colour for nebbiolo taken from Roero lands. ’Tis a coppery hue, sexy rusty, mimicked in flavours with a note like lemon tisane. Steep in some currants and sweet herbs and you get the picture. Poured from magnum and good thing because a table of six would have otherwise gone very thirsty. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC

Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello DOC Anas Cëtta 2019

Cold stabilization and some wood aging but in botti, no longer in barriques. I have yet to put the nose to my glass and the aromatics are coming out. A semi-aromatic grape with here in 2019 from peach, elderflowers and high level acidity. I would imagine it’s most akin to chenin but even that is a stretch. The drinkability meeting complexity is off the charts. Once you go tactile-textile nascetta like this you may never go back. Approximately 16,000 bottles produced. One of now 30-plus producers in the Langhe. Barrel Sample tasted January 2020. Drink 2020-2023

Le Strette Nas-cëtta Langhe DOC Pasinot 2018

Nascetta, or Nas-cëtta, as they say in the commune of Novello with fruit out of Pasinotti, Bergera, Pezzole and Tarditi at altitudes of 350 to 420m. Planted over many decades, in 1948, 1983, 2009, 2014 and 2016. The Piedmontese grape rarity likes the sandy, calcareous clay and its emission is semi-aromatic. This example sits somewhere between riesling and gewürztraminer though truth be told seems closer to friulano what with its glycerin and off-dry sentimentality. Novello is the place and the heights help bring about the oiliness and preserved citrus notes from the grape. Needs another year to fully bloom. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2020

Langhe Favorita DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Langhe Favorita DOC Donna Costanza 2018

A label made by Lucrezia’s father (who passed away in 2010) for his wife and her mother. Endemic, full of drive, a touch of a sweetness and in a way a cool, northern example that is linked to inzolia, or even zibbibo. More texture here and alloy notation. Lingers with herbs and sweet citrus. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Roero Arneis DOC

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Arneis DOC Pradaj 2018

Pradaj in Piedmontese is “A valley with grass and flowers” and clearly a reference to the aromatics in the grape variety from this place. A perfectly correct and referenced arneis indeed and an ideal match to the local Plin agnolotti filled with herbs. When the arneis from Roero speaks clearly it does so like this, unadorned, floral and calm. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted January 2020

Birbét

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Birbét Donna Costanza 2018

Mosta d’Uva parzialmente fermentato or, grape must partially fermented to five point five per cent alcohol. Served traditionally as dessert though it could certainly be employed in aperitivo format, as Brachetrto d’Acqui often is. Very cherry, lightly carbonated and sweetly herbal. Simple pleasure. Drink 2020-2021. Tasted January 2020

Good to go!

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Godello in Cherasco

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Twenty mind-blowing wines of 2020

Dec21

There are times when you do it just for the continuity because time marches on, no matter the circumstances. There is no disputing how different 2020 was and frankly the flip to 2021 will not bring about significant change or any semblance of a return to what was, at least not in the first several months. Yet the compelling urge is there, to quantify and qualify this annual Godello list of wines that opened, expanded and blew a mind in 2020. The concept for a year-end summation was launched in 2012 though it was the publishing of 14 in 2014 that made it very official, if only in the mind of one Godello. Matters little whether this qualifies as the seventh or the ninth because in wine one should always eschew semantics for the liquid truth found inside the bottle, elixirs they are of most profound, ethereal and honest propriety.

This will be a much different list than ever before. While I did manage to squeeze in 25 days of travel in the first 56 of 2020 those were the last of this calendar year. That’s at least 75 short of my normal yearly schedule and so imagine that if an average of 30 wines are tasted each and every day on the road, well then that would tell us that at the very minimum 2,250 wines were missed this year. Not entirely true because at least half that many, if not 75 per cent more were made available to me and my WineAlign colleagues over these past nine month of quarantine, isolation and safe-distancing tastings. Still the make-up of what was tasted has been very different, the most notable being the lack of unrepresented or not found in market wines. Less discovery in 2020 to be sure.

Campo Spritz

According to my personal critic’s database on WineAlign I reviewed 4,450 wines in 2020, keeping in mind that many of those reviews were for wines tasted in 2019. Up until this year I was consistently behind or back-logged with hundreds if not more than a thousand tasting notes in the queue, unedited, unresolved, not yet reconciled, unfinished, not-posted. Since the global pandemic abruptly delivered me home in the dead of a late February night from Faenza to Firenze, through Frankfurt and to Pearson I have not been able to resume travel. These last 10 months have allowed for a massive catching up. There are now a thousand less wines to finesse and publish then there were this time last year, very few raw and rustic songs waiting for the editing process. All the choices on this 2020 list have been solidified and already been opined with confidence for the world to scrutinize. In 2020 there is nothing left on the table.

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Slipped outta Dodge under the cover of darkness…

This year’s list is indeed different. The get togethers were few and far between. The travel non-existent. That is why you will recognize more producer names and also a more “archetypal” bent to the choices. The year dictates such a direction and as we all know, you have to listen to what the vintage tells you but also to remember and thank the true pioneers for getting all of us here. Perhaps the greatest influence on how this composition came to be was a conscious choice to omit the older vintages tasted in 2020. There were less to be sure but it just feels like keeping them kind of secretive is the way to go. Let’s hope a connection to that part of this exercise will make a return in 2021. As always, heartfelt thanks to everyone who poured a glass. The producers, winemakers, export managers, friends, colleagues and pirates, so please be encouraged and read on. Alas, Godello’s 20 mind-blowing wines of 2020.

The Heldeberg from Stellenbosch

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2019, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (23128, $17.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

Gets me every time. Not just one of the finest meets best value chenin blancs available out of South Africa but an example to hang all your hats on no matter where white wine comes from in this world. Still the knowing nod and incredulous head shake that $18 CDN can buy you fruit from six blocks that are mainly 38 years of age but could possibly include 1974 Helderberg planted vines in Stellenbosch. “Core of the business” and arrow through a chenin heart. Great ferment, like a (catherine) wheel. Layers of design, creamy with thanks to secondary lees aging but somehow still texturally chewy. Barrel notes make a point in a vanilla brûlée way and yet each sip is like taking a bite from a piece of firm, ripe fruit. “I need more texture. You need to give me more texture, texture, texture. You need to give me more texture.” Old Vine Reserve obliges every time. Drink 2020-2026. Tasted June 2020

Selbach Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2018, Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (17498, $45.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

The triad of producer, appellation and vineyard gets no more arch classic than this with a riesling in Spätlese form at the hands of Selbach-Oster. The pitch and sway in this Wehlener Sonnenuhr vinyeard is 2018 dance card perfect, tight and fluid. Succulent acids are burgeoning and urging the fruit forward, sideways and every which way but loose. This is a wine that gets what needs and gives what is wanted. Will only improve with a few years and then there will come a day when an air or vapour trail falls away. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted November 2020

Tyrrell’s Belford Sémillon 2017, Single Vineyard, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, South Australia (14322, $46.95, Select Wine Merchants)

Belford Vineyard (formerly Elliot Farm) is Hunter Valley leader Tyrrell’s single-vineyard leased sémillon with so much promise in its corner. A top varietal vintage for one thing and the well-draining sandy soils for another. Sémillon thrives in these conditions and so what comes from this awe-inspiring wine is exactly what you possibly wish for when selecting from Hunter Valley. This wine is swiftly, justly and perpetually lit, a smoky, paraffin waxy, über salty, elemental, aerified, verified mineral wine. So focused and precise. Mon dieu, Drink 2021-2026. Tasted June 2020

Fresne Ducret La Grande Hermine Champagne Premier Cru 2008, AC Champagne, France ($78.00, Nicholas Pearce Wines)

Hard to believe the age because while this almost certainly achieved an immediately retro toasted and evolved stage in its youth and though 12 years have passed the present day imaginings are dreamed to persist within that very immediate stage. As creamy as it is toasty, the textural body politic in La Grande Hermine is one of great cerebral and figurative impression. You feel, intuit and embrace such honesty and possibility. Drink this vintage dated Champagne all winter long. Its calming presence will preserve you in a state of grace lower than a snowman’s blood pressure. Drink 2020-2028. Tasted September 2020

El Esteco

El Esteco 1947 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina (15082, $24.95, Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.)

From Argentina’s northern desert where some of the country’s oldest vines perpetuate existence while thriving fiercely in a hot climate. So yes it is true that some fruit from 70-plus year old vines, well trees really, make their way into this special Salta wine. Dense and concentrated, Cassis times 10, savoury and truly expressive. Oak is well-managed, not shy mind you but these old vines deserve some added and fortifying structure. Do not miss this. Drink 2021-2028. Tasted August 2020

Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Maipo Valley, Chile (403980, $160.00, Escalade Wines & Spirits)

Though essentially a cabernet sauvignon at minimum 90 per cent, it would normally need saying to never discount the blending attributes of cabernet franc, merlot and in recent years, petit verdot. The nooks and crannies filled by the other grape varieties are some of the senses of wonder that have illuminated and elucidated the magic of Don Melchor. And yet years of such thought is turned on its head in 2017 with a 98 per cent pure cabernet sauvignon Don Melchor and only two bits of cabernet franc. Speaks to winemaker Enrique Tirado’s vision of the varietal and vintage relationship. After all, this is his baby, a passion project that spans 20 vintages, from which he looks to “harvest the beauty of the balance of the Puente Alto terroir.” From Viñedo Don Melchor, D.O. Puente Alto and Valle del Alto Maipo, old vines planted 1979 to 1992, new from 2004-2013. The vintage was above average in terms of warmth, cooler temperatures at harvest preserved acidities and sealed the (near) mono-varietal deal. At 30 years into its tenure Don Melchor hits a new stride and it would be hard to argue against the levels of subtle, demure, balanced and ethereal in this 2017. Perfect fruit? Pretty darn close and a bouquet of fresh picked flower-herb-fruit that merge, meld and grace together. One for this age and to age gracefully, slowly and predictably for 20-25 years. Drink 2022-2037. Tasted October 2020

Taub Family Vineyards Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Napa Valley, California (849434, $235.00, Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd.)

From proprietor Marc Taub who’s family has been prominently part of the Napa Valley wine fabric since prohibition and who in 2013 acquired Napa Valley producer Heritance, later evolving into Taub Family Vineyards. His winemaker is Tom Hinde, a Sonoma and Napa specialist who cut his teeth for seven years at Flowers, but also at Kendall-Jackson, Hartford, La Crema, Lakoya, Cardinale, Stonestreet and Verite. Add in a mere three acres within the historic 300-acre Beckstoffer Vineyard first purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour in 1928, called Beaulieu Vineyard Number 3 and made by winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. The 2017 Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon are a very special lot. That much we know. Add in the pedigree, torch passing and respect for these necessary tenets of wine-producing business and well, hello. Utmost attention to detail, optimum extraction and concentration, sultry, supple and ultimately divine. There is this fine, fine, almost indescribable salty vein that cuts through the fruit and the fat like perfect umami seasoning in the most decadent dish. With meat or seafood, California or Japan, take your pick. Drink this either way. Drink 2023-2039. Tasted October 2020

Olive and Anthony Hamilton Russell

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2018, WO Hemel En Aarde Valley, South Africa (999516, $59.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.)

Even though the ’18 HR PN took my breath away nine months ago, the not yet understood nuance of this wine surely clouded first impressions. However small a sample size this may be is more than enough to prove time’s effect on wine, pinot noir and Hamilton Russell’s spiritual connection with the grape and how it personifies the Hemel En Aarde Valley. Fragrance, perfume, essential oils, Lilac, Lilly of the Valley and the sweetest tobacco smoulder. Captivating now and quite likely will be so into the mid 30s. Last tasted August 2020

There have been many Hamilton Russell pinot noir poured in my anxiously awaiting glasses over the last five years. It’s hard to believe we are here at 2018 but time is a joy when you are having a noirmance. The fruit is exceptional in this vintage because it just feels like the warm day/cool night fix is in. The diurnal flux has locked in freshness and sweet tension like no recent memory can recall. Makes for a most grippy yet excitable pinot noir of concentration, presence and promise. Benchmark in every respect. Drink 2021-2032. Tasted November 2019

That Marco Cirese Sangiovese stare. His Noelia Ricci and Pandolfo are crucial, fundamental and illustrative of what is possible in Emilia-Romagna. #sangiovesediromagna #viniadarte #viniadarte2020

Noelia Ricci Pandolfa Romagna Sangiovese Predappio DOC Godenza 2018, Emilia Romagna, Italy (The Vine Agency)

Godenza was the name of the podere (house) on site at a one hectare vineyard at 340m, the highest section of Ricci’s land. The introduction of concrete tanks is surely responsible (in part) to the freshness and reduction but also poor, well-draining calcareous soils that complete a relationship with open-knit and fragrant red fruit. Adds up to complexities and beauty, not to mention the hands-off, unadulterated feel of this wine. At the top end of quality and elaborate expression for the appellation. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted twice at Vini Ad Arte, Casa Spadoni, Faenza February 2020

Because he’s Dario F-in Faccin, that’s why g-dammit! #carobbio #sangiovese #chianticlassico #panzano #galestro

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Tuscany, Italy ($33.60, Alta Wines)

Stop in here for a rest and exult in the near perfect grace, charm and collective soul in the heart of an Annata. To say that the Novarese family and Dario Faccin should feel the greatest sangiovese reward from this appellation would be a grand understatement. This version of Panzano and Chainti Classico DOCG is what it is, what it can and must be. Should be. Has to be. Richly glorious and confidently understated. The cleanest sangiovese and the one that speaks most succinctly of the land. These are the reasons why Carobbio is the most underrated, but for how long? This ’16 will see proof to that and so much more. Drink 2021-2031. Tasted February 2020

With the brothers Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015 (Barrel Select)

Now to introduce you to the Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli brothers, Alessandro and Andrea, two men who covet, own and articulate their western wing of Castelnuovo terroir. As custodians of these classic southern Chianti Classico Alberese and Galestro vineyards they have come to understand their nuance and their specialities. So, Riserva from 2015 now comes to its beginning having needed every bit of the extra two years in bottle it has received. Yes this Geggiano ’15 Riserva still needs time and if you abide by the premise it will come alive, surmise and in turn, surprise. In fact it will make a lasting impression and stay with you forever. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted February 2020

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015, Tuscany, Italy (Stem Wine Group)

The acumen, wisdom and also the persistent reduction are formidable in this incredibly concentrated wine. So Monsanto, so in delivery of San Donato in Poggio, so Laura Bianchi. Seemingly equipped with the needed stuffing in the way that 1968 managed to accrue over 50 years of travels. Here in Gran Selezione form the tendencies and the abilities are multiplied tenfold. Magnificent and magnanimous, the concentration is foiled by focus and precision, from all that has come before, moving into the present and then going forward with everything that occupies, in hopes and dreams. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2020

Vineyard at Salicutti

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Sorgente 2015, Tuscany, Italy

Organic, biodynamic and unfiltered, from the then first in Montalcino, at the hands of Francesco Leanza, in 1995. Now (and since 2015) in the custodial hands of Felix and Sabine Eichbauer, halfway between Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The last of the cru, single-vineyards planted at Salicutti and not surprisingly the one with most red fruity juiciness that keeps a lineage with the Rosso. If a portal into knowing what it makes to taste the bright side of 2015 could be described then why not make use of this ethereal Sorgente to learn of such things. Voltage, tension and vibration. Drink 2021-2028. Tasted February 2020

Francesco Ripaccioli

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Casaccia 2016, Tuscany, Italy (Le Sommelier Inc.)

Barrel Sample. Now this is something exceptional. This is what Casaccia is obviously capable of producing, The sweetest Canalicchio fruit of all, to date and with a rising low and slow angling of acidity (as opposed to straight verticality) that carries the fruit to great heights. This will be a triumph and in fact it is already tasting like a piece de Canalicchio resistance while it sings a long maestro song. A soloist that needs no accompaniment although food, company and peace would not hurt at all. Obviously this is more than just the northern side of Montalcino and more than Canalicchio. This is Casaccia. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted February 2020

Lorenzo Magnelli, Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Diecianni 2013, Tuscany, Italy

The ’13 will be released on January 1st, 2023 and as the name Diecianni suggests it is a Riserva that 10 years minimum are needed before readiness begins to take shape. The selection is from the smallest grape clusters in estate vineyards and mainly the oldest vines, originally planted in 1987. The vintage of the great polyphonic-phenolic, elastic and stretched ripeness, by photosynthesis without heat, of muscles with energy and ones that will develop, remain and use their power to keep the fruit alive. That said it’s a wine of wood and the highest level of salinity, sapidity and a tang that is exhibited by no other Brunello di Montalcino. A concentration that is simply outstanding and in some minds, will even be eclipsed (or not) by 2016. The finesse and architecture of this wine are as good as it gets. Drink 2026-2042. Tasted February 2020

Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila

Malabaila Di Canale 1362 Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto 2015, Piedmont, Italy ($59.95)

From Canale vines 50 years old and the most historical vineyard for Malabaila, as documents show. Riserva here means two years in two, three and four year-old barrels. Yet another silky Roero and example of nebbiolo that could not have been born anywhere else. The “little castle” is a charming nebbiolo, fine of all its constructive parts with an ease of sensuality that just shows how confident, casual and natural life as it is just happens to be. Castelletto knows what it is. Drink 2020-2028. Tasted January 2020

Elena Sottimano

Sottimano Barbaresco DOCG Basarin 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($103.95, Le Maitre de Chai)

Basarin in the newest Cru for Sottimano, established in 2014 though the vines are already between 45-50 years old. Released just at the start of 2020 and already displaying a prominence in aromatics that speak to this exceptional nook just below Neive. From a vintage blessed for its place in history matched by a requiem for a dream. Crunchy for nebbiolo surely caused by the policy of classically long Piedmontese maceration, drawing fruit with gentle impunity and long-grained tannins in thrushes and intermingling chains. Pure dark fruit (almost raspberry) and a generous application of wood varnish. Architecture, length and character, all together. Drink 2022-2037. Tasted January 2020

With Francesca Vaira

G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Bricco Delle Viole 2016, Piedmont, Italy ($113.95, Groupe Soleil)

The thing of Bricco delle Viole that is beauty emits with gala fruit force into the canals of the layers. Bricco dell Viole the singular Barolo cru, from which fruit, texture and extension are consistently planned out, mapped and organized. So wound, so found and following a path that runs along a line along a circle. Slow unwind and unfolding coming, culminating in developed notes, to be far away, somewhere between then and then. Too soon to tell. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted January 2020

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2017, South Australia, Australia (12016, $150.00, Mark Anthony Group)

Another old friend, St. Henri, once a wine for a special occasion, now one for all times. No, not a baby Grange but to me this is to Penfolds as Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus is to Maison Bouchard Père & Fils. Not that there is any resemblance to pinot noir save for the fact that in terms of shiraz, St. Henri is the elegant or if you will, the Burgundian one. Penfolds like to refer to Henri as “an intriguing counterpoint to Grange,” and that seems right in the sense that power and optimum concentration are never the point. It is a multi-regional blend, from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Eden Valley and Port Lincoln. There is no new wood exercised; it spends 12 months in 50-plus year old vats. Distinct style, unique pedigree and alternative execution. Adds up to intrigue, enigma and mystery, which is just what an iconic and signature counterpoint should do. Acidity and structure are tops, bar none. Drink 2023-2039. Tasted October 2020

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2018, Douro Valley, Portugal (12076, $160.00, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits)

The third consecutively declared Vintage Port by Taylor is one of 18’s most powerfully restrained. Taylor describes their 2018 from a “year (that) seems to have given it an additional layer of density and weight.” Apropos it needs saying because texture this viscous is clearly vintage driven. After record aridity in 2017 it was a wet March that was welcomed with open arms and water tables but the rain kept up and so mildew became the challenge. Worse was damage from hailstorms in the Pinhão area, including Taylor Fladgate’s Quinta do Junco. But the heat came and on August 3rd at Quinta de Vargellas they recorded a temperature of just over 44°C. Ripening happened in a shorter and more concentrated window, a good thing in the world of VP, as witnessed by the no holes, all in, singular in vision and style Taylor 2018. Not the gangster power surge of some others mind you and the violets give little aromatic space to fruit nor perfume that tries to steal the spotlight. These are remarkable tannins and it could be periods of ages and epochs before this begins to move into complexities secondary and tertiary. If I were as young as I think you are I’d invest in this Taylor for the next 30-plus years of evolution. Drink 2027-2044. Tasted November 2020

Good to go!

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