At the end of a long day paddling and portaging the lakes and rivers of Algonquin Park, nothing satisfies like a good mug of boxed wine. I know what you’re thinking. Beer? Come on, it’s a canoe trip. Into the pristine, wild interior of Ontario’s greatest nature preserve. If this isn’t a desideratum that calls for thinking outside the glass, what is?

Portage Sign

Flipping Down

Eric A simov once reported that to a snob, wine housed in a multilayer, aseptic carton was “…the epitome of déclassé, the vinous equivalent of trailer trash.” Then he noted, “the idea of putting wine in a box, or more accurately, in a bag within a box, is brilliant.” The cartons have been criticized for allowing flavour-destroying oxygen to seep in, when in fact the wine can stay fresh for weeks once it has been opened. Perfect for a canoe trip. Hey, that redneck wine also aids in the removal of “ladybug taint,” an industry-wide, chemical-bad taste caused by alkyd-methoxypyrazines. Yep, soaked up by the packaging and essentially removed from the wine.

Afternoon Paddle

This lament cries out for the golden era of boxed wine. Where not too long ago a proliferation of quality abounded, locally available brands are now prohibitively limited. Where are you Bandit Cabernet Sauvignon? Who took away my Black Box out of Paso Robles? Why did the Aussies run away; yes you, Hardy’s and Banrock Station.

I did manage to locate four decent cartons to taste on the trip. The consensus number one was the Ciao Sangiovese.

Boxed Wines

Three Thieves Bandit Pinot Grigio (622019, 1L, $12.95) is made by California’s Trinchero from regions “not specified.” Pallid complexion, almost achromatic, like cheap Soave. Cheesy, effluence of a Petawawa tributary, Joycian “corpse of milk” aroma but rescued by coquettish, juicy fruit, Courtney Jaye flavour. Makes for a decent aperitif chilled straight out of the food barrel. When it comes to box wine, “the bottom of the barrel ain’t bad when you make it feel like home.” Eaten alive by the Phở Bò Tái Nạm and the Halibut. 82

Ciao Bianco Pinot Grigio Carton (669200, 1L, $11.95) out of Italy’s Veneto region is the forward-thinking work of Cantine Luigi Sgarzi. Lambent, ochroid and organic, green head-water lake hued. Intensely dry and spartan for the varietal. Snappish yellow plum anointed with tarragon to support corn pasta, black olives, peas and carrots. 84

Pasta with Ciao Sangiovese

Ciao Sangiovese Organic Carton (29090, 1L, $11.95) puts overripe fruit and maximum colour extraction to good use. Moderate heft, renascent Tuscan red fruit of a Chumbawamba, straw flask era. Sincere, sugarplum, anarcho-rocker Sangiovese for straightforward campsite consumption. A friend to red sauce and to Padano Parmesan. Ciao Bella. 86

French Rabbit Cabernet Sauvignon Carton (621680, $12.95) is contentious and inchoate of composition like oil poured over troubled water. That said, it’s an easy quaff. Fructifying enough to consume with nary an ill effect. Tiny molecules of mint, mineral and wild blueberry. The least interesting of the four but sneaks in under the wire for back country needs. 81

Moose Skull on Little Trout Lake

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: Your weekend wines

Jul11

ilumus photography, Fotolia.com

Read this at canada.com

Another stellar weekend is heading this way. My goal each week is to provide the wine equivalent of an operatic recasting, a retooling, a restocking, whether it be for deck, yard or on the water. A few good reds are here for BBQ compliment but let’s face it. This is the summer of whites baby!

Related: Recent release notes

The grape: Vermentino

The history: From grapes grown in Gallura on the northern coast, the producer Sella & Mosca is to Sardinia as Antinori is to Tuscany

The lowdown: Versatile and food-friendly,Vermentino combines dry, salty sea air with rocks, minerals and acidity. Gotta love southern Italian whites

The food match: Seared Sea Scallops with lime zest, lemon juice and orange segments

Sella & Mosca Monteoro Vermentino Di Gallura Superiore 2011 (203422, $15.95) is fresh as a crustacean pulled from salty, Mediterranean waters. Vermentino of Sardinia is to white as Tavel of Provence is to Rose. Scented by sweet citrus, marzipan, Gin and Tonic. 88

The grape: Riesling

The history: Originates in Germany’s Rhine and thanks to the Duke of Lorraine, came to Alsace in 1477

The lowdown: Recent thought has pegged Alsatian Rieslings as “sweetened up” but as a rule I find the entry-level ones to be some of the the driest. They certainly lack the petrolic character akin to their German brethren

The food match: Pan-fried Whitefish with citrus beurre blanc and toasted almonds

Domaine Ehrhart-Pfohl Riesling 2010 (282186, $13.95) summons chalky virility from the Saxon stone mason’s hands and yet stages tropical sweatshop scents of guava, apricot and quince. The confusion is quieted by a near, neo-cabbalistic call to baking Mittelwihr, mandelbroit order. Wants to be Viognier but knows its place. Underappreciated if a bit rakish Alsatian. 87

The grape: Friulano

The history: From Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeast Italy. The project of restauranteur Joe Bastianich and Mother Lidia, the Food Network cooking star

The lowdown: A varietal of unctuous, orchard fruit behaviour, saline like southern whites but of fuller mind and body

The Food Match: Frico Morbido, grated cheese and swiss chard fritters

Bastianich Adriatico Friulano 2010 (277467, $18.95) brings Friuli by the Adriatic to the world. Like Lidia and son Joe, a pastiche and piece of work. Peach, pear and apricot marmellata. Tiger Lilly length, stalky and saftig. 88

The grape: Tempranillo

The history: The great and totemic wine of Spain, most famous for Rioja and Ribera del Duero

The lowdown: A small case production (1,200 bottles) by a tidy northern Spanish producer. First tasting was from an oxidized bottle. This second specimen shone

The food match: Jamon, Chorizo and Manchego

Fernández De Piérola Reserva 2004 (270579, $25.95) lenses purity of Tempranillo colour, looking through a glass lightly. Svelte to knock back with cold-pressed and dressed virgin tapas. Early evening blossom fragrance meets beet, mushroom and cinnamon. Woodsmoke mingling with sugar near-caramelized in the black kettle. 88

Niagara

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling (241182, $35.20) from the unique terroir of the Vinemount Ridge of Niagara is an outrageous and gregarious flirt. Strewn notes of citrus, nuts, apples and magnesium. All out there right now. Like lemon in a wound. Go big or go home. Drink up. 89

Closson Chase S. Kocsis Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (184291, $34.95) seems anti-Beamsville because of a gooseberry-marmalade character. Rather unlike any of the other CC SV’s. Sun-swelled apricot and pineapple, candied, baked. 87

Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 (173377, $24.00) while sourced from down on the peninsula’s floor maintains the throaty Louis fruit this Niagara producer has developed a reputation for. Gravelly, deep and soft, like a pelt carpet. The strong-armed apple of your eye. “So I said to myself,” what a wonderful Chardonnay. 88

Australia

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2010 (528216, $17.95) is a first love, a same time next year type of wine. “Thelonious my old friend” built from tree fruit and their blossoms. Cruising, cool, misty acidity to welcome a midnight, seafood supper. 88

New Zealand

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2008 (640383, $34.95) extends the North Island vineyard’s reputation as top niche producer. Smell and taste replay of match lit, smouldering herb. Tuff gong with terrific persistence. High toned, polished and on the Zion Train. 89

Italy

Tramin Pinot Grigio 2011 (627059, $15.95) venerable and virtuous gives Alto Adige PG its due. Walks tenuously and carries a stainless steel stick. Bang on entry into the niche, inoffensive and whitefish driven of a simple preparation. 86

Attems Pinot Grigio 2011 (707950, $19.95) does the Friuli with less floral Viognier/Muscatel, more vibrant citrus and Amaretto than the Tramin. Costs more too. 87

California

Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2010 (215210, $59.95) I’m hoping will not find me “in my ragged company” because I’d love to “kill off the hours” with this impeccably groomed and pretty white. With steamed lobsters at a table among the wildflowers. Just don’t bring me dead ones. 90

Mazzocco Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2009 (287193, $24.95) shows no shortage or ripe, red licorice and fortified, port fruit. Smells like a fruit basket in the sun. Brief acquiescence and then a recrudence of brambles and berries. Sassy and jazzy. CVR**, DCV Zin. 89

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-value ratio

CVR**– Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-value ratio

Good to go!

A wine tour de France

Jul7

FI:AF

canada.com

The Tour de France is a 22-day, grueling test of endurance. Tasting through 22 French wines may not be the sporting equivalent, but someone’s got to do it. The Tour travels and circumnavigates a path through many of France’s storied wine regions; Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, Rhône and Languedoc. The wine tour goes deeper, making stops in lesser known regions like Savoie and Jura. Here are 11 notes with 11 days to go.

Related – more wine recommendations

French wines to look for now

Alsace

Pfaffenheim Cuvée Bacchus Gewurztraminer 2010 (VINTAGES 996017, $19.95. SAQ 197228, $19.70) looks to wine a stage with its progressive and ambulatory nature like the “Cannibal,” Eddy Merckx. At once steely but also possessed of a creamy, recriminatory lycheeness. A Gewurztraminer island in a sea of mediocrity, less bitter, less off-dry. A comeuppance of residual sweetness and forward thinking expression. 88

Champagne

Henriot Souverain Brut Champagne (959643, $56.95) operates as opulent, bombastic bubbles. Conspiratorial instigator, non-traditionalist and anti-establishment. Cassius to Caesar and to Frazier. Agitated rope-a-doper laden with tropical citrus and guava to belie yeast, smoked nuts, clay and toast. The mousse is persistent if relegated to the ring’s perimeter and the cheap seats of the Colosseum. Tasted twice. 89

Burgundy

Louis Picamelot Brut Cremant De Bourgogne (161919, $17.95) is continental breakfast at the round table where dry toast cuts a linear radius through pious citrus, namely lemon and grapefruit. A strong-armed, knightly representative for the anthology of the Burgundian bubbles culture. A polarizing character, the lance of the lot. 87

Pascal Marchand Meursault 2010 (285866, $57.95) would make for an intriguing tête-à-tête comparison to the Tawse Quarry Road from Moray’s other guy, peer Paul Pender. Marchand’s Chardonnay is multi-layered, zesty and intense. Pear and hazelnut stand out but so too does oatmeal, in an elemental, periodic way. Which leads ne’er the cheerleader MV to comment, “egg salad sandwich.” White Burgundy with regard to the atom. 90

Domaine Gille Côtes De Nuits-Villages 2009 (210864, $28.95) is cheap talk and wine, for Burgundy that is. Clean, pure Pinot fruit, black raspberry scent. On the border of simple, elegant, well-priced Villages. Will give you the best of its love. 88

Rhône

E. Guigal Gigondas 2009 (331900, $29.95) fully elicits hedonism from southern France with rakish Guigal typicity. Blueberries baked in an Ortolan pie with essence of Molasses. Bold, brass Bassline of tannic tenderness. 89

Jura

Jean Bourdy Cotes De Jura White 2007 (286427, $24.95) is most unusual Chardonnay. “Nothing in the world smells like this son.” Tis kind to call it an “oxidative” style but truth be in the pudding. Yerba tea, malt and peat each have their moment. Scottish as if Kilgore retired to the Hebridic isle. 86

Savoie

Domaine Edmond Jacquin Altesse Rousette Savoie 2010 (277335, $17.95) is a Big Mig, a jazzy, rarely seen release that trills citrus and spice in a breezy, casual way. Altesse, also called Roussette, seems to me a superior, physiological varietal. Federer workmanlike approach, a rider like Indurain, wins fans for athletic greatness and for acting effortlessly like itself. 88

Jean Perrier & Fils Cuvée Prestige Mondeuse Vin De Savoie 2010 (272112, $14.95) visually reminds me of Portugal’s Bastardo grape and by a nose. There is sour cherry, cranberry and refreshing citrus vitality as if Viognier were supporting Syrah. Perhaps like Pliny’s “vine of least repute” but there is an acme of elegance. 87

Bordeaux

Château Haut-Vigneau 2009 (29678, $25.95) opens the door to the ’09 Bordeaux party with a Tao, raison d’être and talisman’s affordable summoning via the Left Bank’s Pessac-Léognan. Candied coffee, black cherry and tobacco, radish red. Solid PL and worth storing three away for now and to the decade’s end. 89

Midi

Château Du Donjon Grande Tradition Minervois 2009 (275578, $12.95) speaks directly of its mineral, Minervois roots. Brillat-Savarin might say this about the Donjon. “Tell me what you drink and I’ll tell you who you are.” The Châteauneuf-du-Pape aspiration of Kirsch with Daube is only deterred in the slightest by an aspersion of cherries steeped in quinine, but of a good kind. A “badger” of a red, fighting like Bernard Hinault and his two black eyes. 87

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-value ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-value ratio

Good to go!

Solar flares and justice for wine

Jul6

canada.com

While the move is just a baby step towards free wine trade in this country, the federal government is stepping away from the inter-provincial wine business. The repeal of a 1928 Prohibition law is hardly earth shattering news but it is a positive gesture and an ideological note aimed at the provinces to consider a similar and progressive course.

Shout out to the Henderson sisters, Courtney and Erin, for voicing their opinion, minus the grating, wine geek whine, concerning the passing of Bill C-311. Without this all important first chess move there is no future on the subject. The provincial monopolies are adamant that direct shipping of wine across borders will remove up to $300 million per year from the tax coffers. The law reform now opens the debate to prove that theory wrong.

The law allows you to order a firearm and have it shipped to your door, by courier. That’s what Sandra Oldfield of British Columbia’s Tinhorn Creek Winery did. Not a prosecutable offence! Cautiously optimistic kudos goes to an Ontario commission currently addressing wine shipping regulations. Arthur Kirkland would note “at this point, I would just like to say that what this committee is doing in theory is highly commendable. However, in practice, it sucks.” Arthur, let’s hope you’re wrong.

More wine recommendations

Now I turn my attention to the sun which continues to unleash its power upon the earth in the form of solar flares. Sun-kissed wine values continue to flourish at price points affordable to all.

The grapes: Carignan, Grenache and Syrah

The history: From the largest Appellation d’origine contrôlée in Languedoc-Roussilon

The lowdown: A microcosmic tour of southern France in a single bottle of wine

The food match: Fresh ground brisket, flat-iron and chuck sliders with cheddar, bacon and tomato jam

Chateau Ollieux Romanis Cuvée Classique Corbières 2009 (VINTAGES 281162, $15.95, SAQ 10507163, $17.65) betters le nez de Cyrano by a Pinnochio. Might just be the wood talking but the depth and girth is uncanny. Carignan, a.k.a., the hunchback of red French grapes, carries the load. It’s beauty is unearthed by the royalty of 30% Grenache (acidity) and 30% Syrah (tannin). A bouquet garni wafts through the Romanis cathedral and the orchestra’s A Day in the Life note holds on for the bows. Midi IVR* at its finest. 89

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Oak plays no role. Think rocks, minerals and sharp fruit instead of butter and toast

The lowdown: If it’s not Premier Cru, Chablis is often disappointing. Geoffroy makes good from non-classified, less than estimable vineyard fruit

The food match:

Alain Geoffroy Domaine Le Verger Chablis 2010 (181289, $18.95) built of a “cold steel rail” is not accidentally, tragically on the verge of maximum dryness. Three pistols strong and searing Burgundy, mouth-puckering with green apple chalk. Brings “on the brand new renaissance” so I wish you were here. Hip IVR* performance, vintage in, vintage out. 89

The grape: Sangiovese

The history: Producer of pedigree remembers its past but has a foot firmly cemented in the present

The lowdown: The Poliziano VNM had been closer to the $30 mark since 2004. This is a great vintage IMHO. Don’t miss it.

The food match: A great steak (Porterhouse or Rib-Eye) on the BBQ with Kosher salt, pepper and extra-virgin olive oil.

Poliziano Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2007 (988055, $25.95) should never be ignored. Does VNM get any better than this? Circumnavigates the Tuscan code, both ancient and modern. Assigns meaning to anagogic red fruit and flashes like a solar flare. Puzzling paradox of transparency and rich tinct. Chianina Bovi strength will need aeration or five plus years to relax. 90

The Splurge Wines

The grape: Chardonnay

The history: Ed Spragia was the winemaker at Beringer. His personal Chardonnay is biscuitous but good CVR**

The lowdown: This release adds an emphatic notch on the side of fair pricing

The food match: Steamed P.E.I. Lobsters and a twice-baked potato

Sbragia Home Ranch Chardonnay 2009 (52720, $34.95) from on the range in the Dry Creek Valley, “where seldom is heard a disparaging word.” Water-buffalo type comes out to play with buttered corn and elegant oak integration as the muted smell of smoked casks. A nearly $10 price reduction stares down in the face of the California price-fixing, conspiracy theorists. 89

The grape: Pinot Noir

The history: Transplanted Burgundian style shows most true to form in Oregon’s Willamette Valley

The lowdown: This is Lemelson’s most elegant bottling

The food match: Braised, plum glazed and crispy roasted pork bellies

Lemelson Thea’s Selection Pinot Noir 2009 (278721, $36.95) is a beautifully balanced effort. Coal smoke, meed, griottes and comestible tree fruit fragrance. Thyme and sage rubbed through fingers. Sweet, resinous low country heartbreak. 90

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: old world reds

Jun28

Mario Laporta, AFP/Getty Images

Tasting through many wines in a short time requires focus. While it would not be considered stressful or difficult, the test is something I would wish for all my friends to try. Steadfast loyalty in regard of wine everywhere is my impetus behind these ‘Old World’ tasting notes, that is, from Europe.

With each passing vintage, the line blurs between old and new world as modern techniques are employed by the most traditional of producers. Still we see the vintners from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany continuing to share a common sentiment. Great wine is made in the vineyard.

France

Domaine De Champ De Cour Moulin-à-Vent 2010 (430876, $17.95) plays more like a champ than the national footballers. Mommesin’s Beaujolais is dabbed with pretty smells, especially ripe cherries. Soft tosses junk but gets them dancing and swinging. What pure Gamay the varietal is all about. 88

Château Des Capucins 2009 (279992, $19.95) of Bordeaux’s Right Bank in Lalande de Pomerol is rigged with heavy Brettanomyces and wet, leathery sails. Strong, sturdy and inky like Syrah from the Languedoc. Jury is out on this one. NR

Château Tronquoy-Lalande 2004 (279984, $29.95) offers a reasonable look at Left Bank St-Estephe nearly ten years on. Similar nosing characteristic like the Capucins at first but here it’s just a regular kind of funk. A boondoggle of fresh energy abounds, with earth and spice. Bordeaux forest for the leaves. Lovely CVR** potential. 89

Château De Lancyre Coste D’aleyrac 2010 (74765, $19.95) opens distinctively Syrah in both violaceous aura and hue. Considered to be of the Languedoc, the tone and redolent cherry-red Grenache also speaks directly of Pic Saint Loup, the true, though not yet defined appellation. Could drink this all the time. 90

Château De Nages JT Costières de Nîmes 2009 (736876, $21.95) is mostly Syrah with a small percentage of Mourvèdre. A hillock covered in blueberries entices a mellow ascent but the nightshade is pulled over the palate by a capsicum stinger. Quality Southern Rhône that needs two years minimum to settle in. 89

Le Gravillas Sablet 2010 (78790, $14.95) does simple Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages for the masses. Crystalized berries in every way. Dialed in. 86

Château Vincens Cuvée Prestige 2009 (272427, $14.95) from Malbec’s home of Cahors remains true to the region’s ‘black’ wine effect. Then a blueberry molasses modern take plays havoc on extraction’s oldest trick in the book. A huge thwack of tannin grips from behind. A suspendable offence by such an inexpensive Malbec. 85

Germany

Schloss Reinhartshausen Dry Pinot Noir 2007 (40543, $15.95) always intrigues and only Rheingau Pinot noses like this. Mild mushroom meets blanched almond. Surprising verve in balance and length. 87

Italy

Umberto Cesari Sangiovese Di Romagna Riserva 2008 (33399, $18.95) from Emilia-Romagna in Northern Italy is meaty, musty and frankly smells like “un pezzo di merda.” Like Oeste’s Pêra Rocha dropped from the tree and ready for baby sauce. Or the near disastrous effort of Sunday’s national Football team. 84

Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2009 (275859, $22.95) barks more black dog and caws less crow in opposition to the mascot on the appellation’s logo. Heavy metal packaging and tenebrous complexion, “with eyes that shine burnin’ red.” A Zeppelin of heavy lead on the edge of Sangiovese’s limits. More IGT than Chianti really and sensory overload of deliciousness if you like the modern style. 89

Lamole Di Lamole Vignetto Campolungo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (231241, $36.95) blows past the 27 month ageing requirement for CC Riserva and thankfully so. The massive fruit and tannin interchange needs the oak. This CCR ventures up around the bend and all over the map. “You can ponder perpetual motion” like this Campolungo, moving backwards and forwards. Bold and beautiful, the Lamole is complex and bloody coagulating Sangiovese. 90

Le Sughere Di Frassinello 2009 (25700, $29.95) the modish Sangioveto dominated blend from Tuscany’s coastal Maremma is an encrusted, purgative Etruscan. Saucy, sugary pomegranate, crushed tomato concentrate and acidic ossein. 90

Lionello Marchesi Coldisole Brunello Di Montalcino 2006 (281238, $41.95) seems muffled, not unlike this house’s very good ’97 seemed in 2003. Currently medium in body with an oil slick of resinous fruit working towards a bright future. 89

Mastrojanni San Pio 2008 (944603, $30.95) is a not so common Cabernet-based Montalcino blend with 20% local Brunello grapes to keep it real. There is a citrus drive and berry spice but really nothing specifically Tuscan about it. The taxi is speeding through the piazza but the wheels are in neutral. 87

Le Ragose Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007 (991984, $18.95) quite convincingly sticks Veneto at the centre of a bulls-eye. Nuts and chocolate Ragusa nougat, ox suet and potpurri polish. 87

Monte Zovo Sa’Solin Ripasso Valpoliccella 2009 (650713, $17.95) begins with Brett, airs out and then simplifies for red sauce pasta. Misses the mineral boat of Le Ragose. 85

Lebanon

Cave Kouroum Petit Noir 2007 (260141, $14.95) from the Bekaa Valley intimates Pinot Noir in a Kiwi sort of way. Soft, easy going, “mafi mushkila” to be charmed by its flavours. 86

Musar Jeune 2009 (178079, $17.95) from the esteemed producer and their entry-level juice. Unfortunately a corked bottle. NR

Portugal

Quinta Do Quetzal Reserva 2007 (277376, $27.95) out of Alentejo will, I’m hoping, take it on the cheek or chin when “faced with a dodo’s conundrum.” That I might consider this blind to be an Australian Shiraz/Cabernet blend or South African Pinotage means the fake Chinese rubber plant quotient in uncommonly high. Botox treated plastica of the head and from knee to ankle. 86

Sogrape Reserva Douro 2008 (335208, $17.95) works Portugal’s most famous locale with clean, crisp, modern drive. The vanilla oak is obvious along with cedar mulch and savoury, floral scents. Medium heft, solid, continental and conventional. 87

Spain

Barón de Magaña 2007 (280552, $17.95) was corked.

Bodegas Olarra Cerro Añon Gran Reserva 2004 (190827, $24.95) made of 80% Tempranillo with smatterings of Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Regnant for today’s Rioja movement. An ampelographer might be required to place the Millerized Olarra but no matter. This Gran Reserva is to Rioja what resolved, mellifluent Chianti Classico Reserva is to Tuscany. Easy on the eyes, nose, mouth and throat. 88

Langa Tradicion Centenaria Garnacha 2008 (194795, $13.95) is a repeat performance. Like the 2007 from Calatayud, the two Garnachas act out a simple, sugary and leavened oak fruit play to a standing “O.” 86

Ramón Bilbao Reserva 2005 (281097, $17.00) does Rioja with IVR* spirit. Hewn, leathery texture and a perfume river of aromatics leading to a petal strewn pagoda’s steps. Musk of melon and ox lingers on the lawn. Subtle and captivating. 88

Torres Gran Segre De Toro Reserva 2008 (315648, $15.95) of Catalunya is a hircine of horse’s hooves. Mocha java oaks its way into the stable of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah. 86

Tossals Junior 2006 (278135, $18.95) emblematizes the new Montsant. One third Carinena is grippy and laborious to chew through at present. A second third lavender and raspberry Garnacha are more welcoming but it’s the last third that does the real wooing. Cabernet Sauvignon on loan from Bordeaux joins near-sectarian Tempranillo to win over fans. Soporific and yet the blend is a tough nut to crack. 87

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR** – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: Around the world in 20 whites

Jun22

Photo Credit: bespokewinecompany.com

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/22/the-wine-diaries-around-the-world-in-20-whites/

In sweltering times like these the refreshing vigor of white wine is irrefutable and necessary. I would steer you to just about any global example from this list. Standing tall above is a 20th choice, the Terredora Greco di Tufo that I reviewed the other day. The Iberians too are all solid selections.

Stag’s Leap Winery Viognier 2011 (597369, $34.95) tasted twice tarried true to type. Velvety proof found in the pudding, the Viognier’s a Napa squall of plum flowering white in the wind. Apples baking and an Indonesian spice market with the citrus spray of a fresh squeezed grapefruit. Then the wine goes underground, into a heated, peppery lair. “Aww she surely do moves me,” she must be illegal stuff. 89

Ferngrove Cossack Riesling 2010 (275206, $24.95) adventures into herbal grass, spinifex and mangrove musk. Some petrol and shucked mollusk shell join the omnipresent lemon and lime of Aussie Riesling. Like rice pudding wine. The Cossack’s twain marks not in Ukraine. “Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.” 87

Astrolabe Province Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (10421, $21.95) formerly known as Voyage, formerly, formerly just Astrolabe. Kiwi non-starter in search of an identity in a sea of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Vegetal asparagus and blanched beans lift a dead bale but a kicking caboose shakes that thing on the finale. 88

Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (141499, $19.95) does not run with Marlborough’s reliably charitable gooseberry, grass and acidity. “Well it was back in Blind River” when I last saw this SB alive. Young but long on decline. 84

Seifried Riesling 2011 (989541, $17.95) is a robotically off-dry, stone fruit and cold Steve Austin reeking of A16. Blanched, bionic, bitter, sweet and sour gooseberagus. Would fare better as Cantonese chicken balls. Wrestles with identity. Could pass for Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cyborg or Steve Andersen. No matter the Riesling. 85

Vrede en Lust White Mischief 2011 (280156, $16.95) is bees-waxy, dank and yet juicy South African Vin Gris. A kitchen sink of protractive, not so floral smells. Five blended varietals cancel each other out. Pinot Grigio always wins. 87

Meinklang Grüner Veltliner 2010 (219014, $15.95) is some kind of Mostellian edible oil product. S, green herbs and Pam. A snail minus the butter and garlic. Zero acidity, humourless, see that “S” car go. 84

Domaine Gresser Duttenberg Riesling 2009 (283523, $21.95) fights the Alsatian fight. Light and expressive of primeval stone, caraway and Sommer Special Amer. Bucketmouth watering salinity. 87

Lucien Albrecht Réserve Pinot Gris 2010 (281394, $17.95) is pungent in a dry rub ginger, zeotar and galangal sort of way. To taste it is sweet and to mouth viscous like Muskateler. Rustic and ready for porky burnt ends roasted over felled Linden. 86

Château Haut Bertinerie 2009 (422220, $23.95) of old vines from the woods of the Blye has been “down on the rock for so long.” Marl, barley and Fuissé-esque peach toast. Allen’s Apple Juice too. Talking White Bordeaux with 100% Sauvignon Blanc Blues. 87

Domaine De La Tourlaudière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine 2010 (171694, $13.95) shows off more weight and depth for the appellation, if less acidity so fish matches ahead of seafood. A peppery kick and tangy melon rind remind me of Verdejo or Albarinho. A Melon de Bourgogne à la Loire easy to get along with. I think Norm might agree. 87

Masion Foucher La Vigne Aux Sandres Pouilly Fumé 2010 (277350, $20.95) seems to act green with Kiwi envy. How else to explain the extreme grassy and goosey behaviour? 86

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008 (606202, $16.95) hails from less than 1er Cru Vineyard stock, fumes odiferously of orange peel and Mandarin sauce reduction. This passes and leads to a cleaner Gardenia scent. To taste much more confected than expected with spiced honey. Got a lot going on here but the focus is not on the trolley. 87

Darting Riesling Kabinett 2009 (950212, $15.95) is guarded, a mastiff in protection mode. Bawdy lime and not much else. Almost always enjoy this Michelsberg. Funny bottle. NR

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2011 (954024, $17.95) the Gallo of Alto Adige effervesces yeast meets western volcanic and dolomitic crust and sea. Peaches and cream, nectarine with length but campestral like Beck’s melancholy. “Keep your lamplight trimmed and burning.” 87

Michele Chiarlo Le Marne Gavi 2011 (228528, $14.95) is a salt lick of crustaceous shells and dripping stone fruit goodness. A simple and fun summer quaffer. 87

Casa Do Valle Grande Escolha 2011 (276220, $14.95) while unmistakably Portuguese Vinho Verde, this could be a ringer for Greco di Tufo or Viognier. The long visit to the haberdashery at once wears baking spice, Mezzogiorno mangia cake at Christmas and then white rose, honeysuckle Hermitage. Lofty comparisons for sure but this exceptional IVR* treacle is a chef mastered sweetbread of a double “V.” 89

Nessa Albariño 2010 (282558, $15.95) maybe pale but a gale of vinous expression abounds. Lemon, wax and citrus along with the bitter roots of Wormwood and Horseradish. Would work well with Fried clams and donuts. 88

Domaine Des Chouans 2010 (278945, $15.95) chassays over all pretty and sallow. Dry, sweet at first, then turns bitter. A Blue Podded Blauwschokker Garden Pea. Ornamental but inedible. 85

More notes from the VINTAGES, June 23, 2012 release:

The Wine Diaries: Chardonnay close to the edge

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

IVR* – Vintage Direct Intrigue-to-Value Ratio

CVR* – Vintage Direct Curiosity-to-Value Ratio

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: Chardonnay close to the edge

Jun20

Wine on Turntable. Photo Credit: rateyourmusic.com

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/20/the-wine-diaries-chardonnay-close-to-the-edge/?postpost=v2#content

Chardonnay comes in so many shapes and sizes. California versions are more often than not oaked to the nines (or 200+ on the wine geekspeak, barrel toast meter). Burgundian Chablis sees more stainless steel for more sea, salt and mineral effect. This group of overwhelmingly gregarious wines collectively tease the edge of the Chardonnay abyss.

Calera Thirty-Fifth Anniversarry Vintage Chardonnay 2010 (713313, $24.95) seems a bit bobbery but that’s probably just the repeated shots to the head from the butterscotch-glazed pineapple smoking on the BBQ. Concussed Central Coast Chardonnay would best be served like a Piña Colada at an all-inclusive. 86

Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 (980490, $29.95) the precocious starlet flirts with a grove of oak and an orchard of Golden Delicious. Toasted brioche smothered in quince jam and marzipan. This Kate is wide-eyed like mother Goldie and nasally refined like Pinkie. 89

Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Gold Label Chardonnay 2010 (708305, $19.95) shows off a texture so oily you could roast a pig in it. With a mouthful of tropical fruit and a Carrie Underwood lilt, the DCGL is “free as a bird up on a wire.” Nobody told me so much Chardonnay would taste like this. 84

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2009 (59576, $27.95) gives up the odd sensation of green figs melting into thick caramel. Give it points though because man they’ll eat this cheddar up. 85

Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2010(241646, $49.95) opens wide the Santa Cruz Mountains window mythos of quality that the Monte Bello Vineyard defines and shares with the likes of Mt. Eden. Crushed almond cookie and cake, mouth-watering citrus and just before ripe banana. “Smell of the bakery from across the street. ” Intense late creamy push. Balance, structure, elegance. Clean like listening to Jimmie Rodgers on my lunch break sing “the wide open spaces all around me, the moon and the stars up above.” 91

Snoqualmine Naked Chardonnay 2009 (158501, $14.95) initializes with sulphur and rice vinegar then disbands like a talking head. Garden perfume, a skinless red apple past prime and dissolving into sauce. “Like and Adam and an Eve…now, it’s nothing but flowers.” 86

Joffré E Hijas Grand Chardonnay 2010 (279794, $17.95) bottle was corked. NR

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2011 (468728, $18.95) of ghee, masala spice and fermenting melon is certainly an acquired taste. Complex and cunning, heavily dotted with barrel notes and funkified by hard cheese curds. It’s “got to shout and shing-a-ling.” Ample acidity to keep it lively. 88

Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2008 (159236, $29.95) reminds me of Paul Pender’s Quarry Road in tinct, tart and vein. Beyond that this vaporous Chardonnay is all over the map. Expressive and disjointed, “emotion revealed as the ocean maid.” Gives generously a plethora of scents. Cranshaw, pomello, lime zest and something from the sea; a spongy, gelatinous cucumber. And you and I will enjoy this big, extracted and apocalyptic Chablis close to the water’s edge. 89

Bubbles from VINTAGES, June 23, 2012

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

Jun18

LMFAO. The Canadian Press/Chris Young

http://blogs.canada.com/2012/06/18/the-wine-diaries-mmvas-sparkling-wine-showers/?postpost=v2#content

Organizers of the Much Music Video Awards are proud to say the event’s boozy and disorganized culture has been cleaned up over the past few years. So, you and your under-aged teenager decided it would be perfectly fine to attend. Katy Perry’s flesh-coloured bodysuit was certainly not considered inappropriate. Nor was LMFAO’s impromptu spraying of what appears to be Champagne during the duo’s rendition of their clean as a whistle, Top 40 hit.

Redfoo and SkyBlu doused a mostly underage crowd with what appeared to be real champagne – though it was likely only sparkling wine if you want to get technical. No harm done, right? That is unless it was baby Duck or Spumante. Let’s see the kids explain that one to their parents.

Where are Milli Vanilli and Right Said Fred when you need them. Could that Champagne Shower at least have been executed with one of these five?

Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé (280172, $21.95) feigns saignée Rosé Brut if only in hue. The Blanc from Hawkes Bay Chardonnay as commodore over the faint hit of raspberry from Marlborough Pinot. “Easy like Sunday morning.” 85

Laborie Brut Sparkling Wine 2009 (280115, $17.95) makes you want to crack a window. Smells like a wet wookie, the yeasty South African cheese that is. Chewy, crusted apple pie, crackerbread, Kasha, gypsum and kaolin. “A party rocker from night ’til noon and it’s about to be a champagne monsoon.” Indehiscent bacca Pinot and Chardonnay with balancing citrus and noble lineage. 88

Bestheim Brut Crémant D’alsace (141184, $17.95) may as well be cider of apple and grapefruit. Subtle spice, soufrière and a weal burst of freshness, then bubbles all gone. What is luck but something made to run out. 86

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D’asti 2010 (942888, $16.95) shows off some apricot, honey, Caprino rind and Viognier perfume but is ultimately all oranges, all the time. Frizzy and fizzy Gelato D’arancia alla Crema. Low in alcohol, more dessert wine than aperitif. Good Asti, if not an acquired taste. 86

Prevedello Asolo Superiore Extra Dry Prosecco 2010 (262881, $16.95) echoes the Moscato’s intense fruity florals but the palate is so dry I’m spitting cotton. Taleggio tang, blood orange acidity and a bit gritty. Sexy and it knows it. 87

Good to go!

Essential wine for Father’s Day

Jun14

Father’s Day Wine. Photo Credit: ehow.com

What to get dad this year for Father’s Day. Perhaps not the gifting conundrum that is Mother’s Day but no walk in the park either. The obvious gadgets present themselves; Iphone, Ipad, Kindle, Nook or Golf Course GPS, because no real man wants one for the car.

Forget the camera, video recorder and BBQ. Those things just tell dad he has to work harder. Give him something he can use. Better yet, choose something you can share with him.

VINTAGES Essentials are the Fine Wine and Spirits Division’s collection of always available products. Imagine it’s Sunday afternoon. You are a mere hours away from Father’s Day dinner. You have been tasked with bringing the wine. You need to pick promising bottles to match hors d’oeuvres, appetizer, main course, dessert and one special bottle for Dad to take home to his cellar. In between Soccer finals and gymnastics pick-up there is only time to stop in at the nearest LCBO. The VINTAGES kiosk at the store’s rear only carries certain release products and is sold out of everything you came looking for. That is where Essentials answers the bell. These products can be counted on to be found in most (decent-sized) Ontario stores.

I tasted through 90 VINTAGES Essentials two weeks ago. Here are six to bring to dad; five to share with him and one as a special parting gift for his singular day.

Thirty Bench Riseling 2010 (24133, $18.95) with it’s Huet of the Loire, Chenin Blanc-like citrus, pear and honey blast begs for some BBQ starters. Like good wurst and spicy mustard. Like Chinese BBQ glazed ribs. Incredibly youthful, living in a wild west end of the Beamsville Bench. “Greasy hair easy smile..this is the seventh heaven street to me.” A benchmark Riesling to put Niagara on the popular map. 90

Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne 2010 (933077, $18.95, LTO until June 24, 2012 at $16.95) keeps on caramelizing but less so in ’10. The oak barrel toast level quotient is down close to 200 for those of you counting at home. This allows a searing acidity to zap the mellow white cherry, rose and raspberry fruit into life. Best Jadot White Burgundy normale in quite a spell. Would serve well alongside soft taco or slider appetizers. Of fish, pork or chicken. Some cracklings would be nice. 88

Esporao Reserva Red 2009 (606590, $25.95) made from parochial Aragonés, the Tempranillo of Portugal. This particular vintage brings Spanish Montsant to mind, especially the wines of Celler Capçanes. A thread of ripe cherries, cocoa dust, milk chocolate and spice link it to a style also not unlike Napa. Stillwater runs deep for this deeply-hued, Portuguese raven and methinks it almost famous. Rubbed ribs and chicken await. 88

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (255513, $34.95, LTO until June 24, 2012 at $29.95) signals reform and a serious return to form. Dictionary Napa entry, a reigned and refined milkshake of California berries and dark chocolate. Solid mineral bones full of might, fight and planar, ferric-iron leucos-phosphite. This is the tetrameric rub that notches new found response and respect for the can be found everywhere, once Philistine Mondavi. Top cut, seared on high heat and rare of course. 89

Cave Spring Indian Summer Select Late Harvest Riesling 2010 (415901, $24.95) wins the race to accompany dessert for its Spätlese sensibility melded to a Niagara Crèvecoeur smoke and mildness mentality. The Peninsula’s typical lime, slate and chalk it shares with Germany’s Mosel are front and centre, cojoined by Icewine’s candied, orange marmalade. At half the tag, the Late Harvest is the leading Essentials sticky deal. 88

Tignanello 2008 (986786, $99.95) gets the nod for dad’s big gift because the singing Tig is flat out esculent. A smoked, Blueberry Margarita, Porcini Risotto with Tartufo di San Giovanni d’Asso and long espresso all rolled into one Super Tuscan. The Cabernet components don’t just get lucky, but are hugely supportive of the vernacular Sangiovese. The Tig might march you up a Florentine hill and get you singing “if you got a truffle dog, you can go truffling.” 90

Good to go!

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Southern France

Jun12

Southern France. Photo Credit: Travel Blat

Previous posts on the VINTAGES, June 9th release:

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Reds

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Whites and Rosés

VINTAGES June 9, 2012 Release: Six from Chile

Four alternative whites from the Vintages June 9th release

If vineyards were retail stores in a mall, a wine’s cheapness would be directly proportional to its proximity to a food court. Southern France knows little of fast food and its vineyards are stamped with an emblematic sense of place. Add to that an across the board aptitude to craft as art from indigenous fruit and it is clear that quality has never been better.

Domaine Piquemal Tradition 2009 (272419, $15.95) out of the Côtes du Roussillon shines like the sun on purple vetch. A taste of black licorice popsicle dripping into a wooden bowl of raspberries. Taut and firm, looking for roasting meat. 87

Foncalieu Réserve Du Sud Languedoc 2009 (272443, $15.95) is another SGC composition. Jets to black where Syrah is sooty, Grenache gamey and Carignan cumbrous. All tolled and told this is a very big wine for $16. Will get my thumb lost in its plum pudding. 88

Gérard Bertrand Grand Terrior Grenach/Syrah 2009 (147983, $18.95) the languid one of Montpeyroux in Languedoc is certainly more Anita and less Enrique. Still, it fails to ring my bell. There is sour licorice and also low acid-lees sediment. Would work for a disco rendezvous. “Well lay back and relax while I put away the dishes.” 84

Hegarty Chamans No. 2 Grenache/Mourvèdre/Cinsault 2009 (277061, $21.95) of port-like, cassis and orange whip qualities cabs and scats its way onto the stage. The brother John Moucher from Minervois, blue-candy and heavy in style, “a red-hot hoochie coocher.” Some citrus animation keeps it tapping. 88

Mont Tauch Le Tauch Fitou 2009 (272484, $19.95) of chew, chunk and funk seems ancient in style. An acerbic bomb of tannin, alcohol and fruit. All I can say is wow. Bare, bold and beautiful. 88

Château De L’aumerade 2010 (277616, $15.95) ascertains a sunny disposition so colloquially Provence it’s obvious. Rosé scent of strawberry cream and modish in its gastronomic versatility. A locavinous foody. 87

Château de Trignon Gigondas 2006 (681817, $29.95) is old school, weighty, Frank the Tank. Base, brash, fleshy, formidable. The kind of Rhône that kills off brain cells, abandons all reason and goes streaking through the quad. Oh, baby. 91

Domaine Des Fées Côtes Du Rhône 2010 (272450, $14.95) should rightly flash like a nocturnal animal’s eyes, what with the unfiltered Grenache and Syrah raised in concrete on the outskirts of Rhône town. Not so. Elegant, refined and quite pretty actually. A wee wine this fée, gnomish, of peace and fair play. 88

Montirius Le Clos Vacqueyras 2007 (76547, $28.95) the organic one is consistently relevant and creatively prolific, “goin’ as much with the river as not.” The Grenache throws no punches while the Syrah “don’t push the river.” Initially idiosyncratic, the funk abides with a swirl to reveal a licorice and Kirsch liqueur. The wine as sleeping beauty becomes a giant. Soulful vacuum of traditional country meets R & B. 90

Romain Duvernay Vacqueyras 2009 (280966, $24.95) is a dark Vaq, modern, big on extraction. Possesses the least sense of place from these ten. At times seems Tuscan, other times Napa. Minerality and dark berries abound, as do chalky tannins. Time will tell the story but either way, you have to like the concentrated style. 88

Good to go!

Godello

a wine processor

Category Archives: France

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The Wine Diaries: Around the world in 20 whites

The Wine Diaries: Chardonnay close to the edge

The Wine Diaries: MMVA’s sparkling wine showers

Essential wine for Father’s Day

The Wine Diaries. VINTAGES June 9, 2012: Southern France