A September to remember in Bordeaux

Château Montrose

As you will see over the coming 20,000 words in this report, the trip summarized is not your average, every other week excursion to another wine region in Europe. No, this lengthy article will in fact describe a personal opus, an epic, once in a lifetime journey to Bordeaux. A five-day fantasy traipsing through the clay and gravels on both banks of the Gironde Estuary to come away fed, nurtured, nourished and experienced in the history, breadth and depth of the place. May as well just list the properties straight away because the itinerary is what need be considered legendary. In Pauillac – Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Pichon Baron, Château Haut-Batailley, Château Lynch Bages and Château Pontet-Canet. Saint-Julien – Château Léoville Poyferré and Château Lagrange. Saint-Estèphe – Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Phélan Ségur and Château Montrose. Margaux – Château Margaux and Château Brane-Cantenac. Pessac Léognan – Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Château Haut-Bailly. Saint-Émilion – Château Bellefont-Belcier (Vignobles K), Château Cheval Blanc, Château Pavie-MacQuin, Château La Confession and Château Troplong Mondot. Pomerol – Château Clinet and Château La Croix St. Georges. Visits, meals and great wines shared with two prominent négo0ciants – Nathaniel Johnston & Fils and Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus. A sum total of 22 properties with more than 50 estates’ wines poured and tasted.

Just a boy and a 1966 Haut-Bailly

Selective histories and size matters

We begin with the large, rich and famous. With the 1924 vintage, a then 21 year-old Baron Phillip de Rothschild launched the program of having each bottle of Château Mouton Rothschild’s label designed by a different (and very famous) artist. The estate is comprised of 700 hectares in Pauillac, also in ownership of 40 with Château Clerc-Milon. At Mouton 80 percent is cabernet sauvignon, with (16) merlot and (4) cabernet franc. Mouton Cadet was created in the 1940s. Château Phélan Ségur was originally owned by and Irishman and purchased in 2018 by a wealthy Belgian who made his fortune in containers (Europe and Africa). There are 114 hectares total, 40 of vines split up into four plots, two up to the furthest northern edge of Saint-Estèphe and two further south nearer to the Gironde estuary. Incidentally no relation to Calon-Ségur. The newest ownership at Château Montrose dates to 2006, by Martin and Olivier Bouygues who came from Telecomm and poured significant investment into the property.

The view from Château Pichon Baron

Château Batailley is at the southern border of Pauillac, across the road from Lynch-Bages, abutting Saint-Julien and it is the tower that marks the entry into the appellation. It was acquired by the Cazes family in 2017 with Jean-Charles now at the head. The name Batailley comes from the fight during the 100 years war between the French and the English. The chateau was separated in 1942 and the western part became Batailley, nearly 100 years after the 1855 classification. Was owned by the Bourie family and is now the only classified (5th) growth that became one before being split in two. Speaking of classifications, no discussion considers a paradox as great as that of Château Haut-Brion and Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion. One is classified while the other is not and yet the latter sits on a property occupied by the former but is arguably one of the finest terroirs in the entirety of Bordeaux. One only has to taste the last five vintages of that Grand Vin to wonder how it can possibly not be qualified as a classified growth. The modern turning point for it’s current status and affairs can be traced back to 2010 when its was purchased by Patrick Pitcher. Another Péssacc-Léognan estate is Château Haut-Bailly with vines dating back to the 1400s and today’s über modern facility was built by the Wilmer family, bankers from Buffalo (New York) who purchased the estate 20 years ago. The property is home to some of the first vines planted after Phylloxera, some now as old as 120 years.

Louis Gaspard and Godello at Cos d’Estournel

Bordeaux’s total plantings are approximately 100,000 hectares and in Saint-Émilion the average vineyard holding is between five and six. That makes Vignoble K’s Château Bellefont-Belcier seem large at 23. Still that size is just half of Château Quintus with their 45 hectares – that puts it in large company. In Saint-Émilion the land decides the classification, not the estate which is the rule in the Médoc and across appellations on the Left Bank. If you add land in Saint-Émilion you have to make a different label and vinify in a separate cellar. Vietnamese-born Peter Kwok has started at Château Haut-Brisson, moved through Pomerol and Castillon and now owns Château Bellefont-Belcier along with Château Tour-Christopher. Each of the estates are a small unit, independent and self-functioning.

The village of Saint-Émilion

It was December 15, 1998 when the Château Cheval-Blanc estate was sold to LVMH Chairman and Belgian Businessman Bernard Jean Étienne Arnault. He is the founder, chairman and CEO of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury goods company. The land has likely been producing wine since before the 100 Years War, possibly as early as the 1400s. It had been purchased and designated as a chateau in 1832, which in terms of historical Bordeaux is relatively late. The owner was ahead of his time having designed drainage systems from the 1830s to the 1850s to deal with the heavy clays. The name Château Pavie Macquin comes from a combination of the place and the legend Albert Macquin, an agricultural engineer who popularized grafted plants which would save the vineyard after it was ravaged by phylloxera. Pavie Macquin was classified as the first Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion. “If you underscored the classification,” says current generation proprietor Cyrille Thienpont. “then the explanation was bad.” The last classification brought together Pavie Macquin and Pavie Macquin-Decesse, not just Pavie Macquin and Pavie. Château Troplong-Mondot is owned by an insurance company called SCOR.

Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux President Ronan Laborde of Château Clinet

From the 11th until just a century ago the L’Eglise de Pomerol was located right at the site where Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux President Ronan Laborde’s Château Clinet sits today. Pomerol’s size is 815 hectares shared between 120 producers and bottlers though some do sell in bulk to Bordeaux wine merchants. You can’t age or bottle wines outside of Pomerol and agents must also buy finished wines to label it as such. The word Clinet comes from the name of a seeded fruit that existed in the time of Christ, as did vines in the area. Most production is much smaller as compared to Saint-Émilion and the Médoc, the exception being Pétrus at 35,000-40,000 bottles and prices are highest in the appellation. The two complimentary varieties of merlot and cabernet franc dominate though Clinet farms 25 percent of their vines to cabernet sauvignon. Vines planted in 1950 that survived the (-20 degrees celsius) 1956 February freeze are still in production, in top shape, give small berries and are rarely susceptible to mildew. Laborde notes a true salty-mineral quality in Clinet’s cabernet sauvignon.

With Alice Leuret and Guillaume Pouthier, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

Heterogenous terroirs, varietal adjustments and climate events

Using the name Bordeaux and the word elevation in the same sentence may seem like an oxymoron but all things being relative the search for subtleties begins with the unseen changes in landscapes. A “butte” is as small a mountain as you might find and yet still proffer up an indication of elevation. “Cos” is a small hill from Old French, though no Google search (without a qualifier) will tell you that. The name Cos (with the S pronounced) refers to a “hill of pebbles” in Gascon dialect and the name Cos d’Estournel was given in 1810 by Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel. At Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion seven of the 15 “city” hectares are defined as a “Cos.” In the 16th century this was the site of Château Haut-Brion. At the time the owner gifted the property to the order of the Carmelites Blanches. There may or may not have already been a “Cos” then. In Pauillac soils are arid, of sand and gravels and just a small amount of limestone and clay at the 26m high “mountain of Pauillac.”

Château Pichon Baron’s Pauillac terroir includes clay and also chalk beneath which makes for two-way conversions of both water retention and drainage. Château Phélan Ségur’s northern blocks are truly gravelly overtop heavy clay subsoils, more clay than those closer to the Gironde. The clays are really helping with the challenge of extreme heat days (18 of them over 40 in the summer of 2023) by maintaining water and freshness. At Château Tronquoy the soils are really gravelly with larger stones like Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a truly unique terroir for Saint-Estèphe. More clay composition at the surface in the Tronqouy soils as opposed to sister property Montrose (and also Dame de Montrose) where that clay lays lower, below the sand and gravels. Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s city vines do not cool down like the 35 hectares found in the countryside though they are are still within the limits of Pessac-Léognan. The Bordeaux city vineyards are generally three degrees warmer, especially at night and the Grand Vin is produced from these vines. The blue clay here is special, much less “sticky” than Pauillac and integral to the ripening and development of the cabernet franc. Horses are used in the vineyards to reduce the amount of tilling, tractor and machinery disruption.

Saint-Julien terroir at Château Lagrange

Château Montrose is 85 hectares planted closest to the estuary of vines that in terms of vigour are truly self-regulating. No bunch thinning is necessary, especially for highly concentrated cabernet sauvignon. This part of Saint-Estèphe on average runs a week to 10 days behind for harvest times. There are 40 hectares, 21 under vine, 19 still to be planted, 65/35 cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Studies in dug hole pits has convinced the team to add a small portion of petit verdot, to make up two percent of the overall mix. Redevelopment has been ongoing seen 2017 though the Bourie has already reconstructed the winery. Château Haut-Batailley in Pauillac started covering between rows with cover crop between in 2020.

Godello in Saint-Émilion

In the area of the Saint-Émilion chateaus occupied by Quintus, Pavie and Ausone the soils are mainly clay-loam with limestone near or on top of the surface. At Château Bellefont-Belcier terraces have been constructed because of the higher limestone content. The vineyards of Château Cheval Blanc are a result of how the tertiary period left behind a salty limestone plateau which extends from Cognac through the Right Blank along the Gironde Estuary to central France. The retreating river left behind gravels that were dragged over each other and so Cheval Blanc is a heterogenous terroir that is a mix of sand, clays and gravels. CFO and commercial director Arnaud de Laforcade talks about “the big principle” when he says “we accept and celebrate the variability between plots to create the character of Cheval Blanc.” The cabernet franc and malbec planted at Cheval Blanc was a Right and Left Bank mix but that changed after Phylloxera with the switch to merlot. Much of Pomerol, including the soils of Château Clinet are clay with gravels layered on top. It is well known that merlot is the child of cabernet franc but only recently another genetic parent was (re)discovered through a variety called Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, named after the birds that arrived first to eat mature Bordeaux grapes.

Harvest at Château Latour

Arnaud de Laforcade pontificates about cultivational philosophy. “We need to rely on ourselves and so all propagating and massal selection is done on the estate – kept to the estate.” A block of 1930 merlot is still in production and in fact any block that makes it into the Grand Vin can’t be uprooted. Of great importance is soil health. “Even if vines are based on poor soils, they shouldn’t be dead soils.” Cover crops are key, to maintain harmony, despite the competition. Clover’s penetrating roots are good for aeration and reduce the need for tilling. White radish for the bees, re-seeded every Spring. Only a shallow till is done in the Fall but not under the vines for fear of increasing humidity and inciting mildew. Trees are planted on rootstocks and pruned in line with the vines. All these tools are current ones and could very well updated in 30 years, possibly less. Bottom line is monoculture is no longer acceptable. Organics and biodynamics are encouraged but the reality is that no solutions are 100 percent perfect. “People who say they will be mildew free because of all these methods are dreamers,” is de Laforcade’s conclusion.

Cabernet Sauvignon in the gravels of the Médoc

Different soils and sub-soils within the 45 hectares at Quintus lead to an agricultural approach that is almost “Bourguignons,” meaning a rank and file of estate, village and cru. Same applies to Château Pavie and Château Ausone. No wonder the hills and areas occupied by these estates are sometimes (quietly) referred to as the “Burgundy of Saint-Émilion.” Château Pavie Macquin’s terraced vineyards planted to 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc are marked by a three-toned mix of clays; white at the top, mixed in the middle and brown down below. Pavie Macquin faces the village of Saint-Émilion with 15 hectares at the border which means the clays are laid overtop limestone. At the top the clay measures 14 cm and at the bottom the clay layers with limestone and “tender” limestone. A breezy place which means less mildew and disease pressure but also later harvests compared to the plateau of Saint-Émilion.

The Saint-Émilion vineyards of Château Troplong Mondot

Chief Executive Officer of Château Troplong-Mondot Aymeric de Gironde introduces the non-eroded soil. “The real specificity is in the clay,” he explains. “It has been measured in square meters per gram.” An original clay, created at the same time as the rocks. The plateau is neo-clay, created by the disintegration of the limestone. Troplong-Mondot is original clay, not sin, a perfect pocket like Pétrus and so much more dense than that of their immediate neighbours. Its so dense it’s hard as rock. “At Troplong-Mondot natural density comes for free,” laughs de Gironde but he’s dead serious. “Here we don’t have to do much at all, if anything we have to be careful not to extract too much power.” The soils remind of Macigno del Chianti or better yet Formazione di Silano so prevalent in creating structured Chianti Classico sangiovese. “We’re now the first to harvest in the area,” says Aymeric. “We cultivate the differences of parcels and build the wines by blending.” The mix is 85 percent merlot, (13) cabernet sauvignon and (2) petit verdot. He has been with TM for six years. “Tasting 1998 and 2004 were great indicators to me for what to do in the vineyard.” On the property of Château Phélan Ségur a weather warning system is in place and the estate heads up a Saint-Estèphe program to release weather balloons in the face of hail storms. Hard not to be reminded of Angelo Gaja who more than 20 years ago was sending helicopters equipped with weather altering technology into the skies above Barbaresco. In the Médoc hailstorms are increasingly problematic and when they strike they can be devastating to a season’s crops.

Changing fermentations, elévage and varietal designs

Château Mouton Rothschild’s approach is unique because alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are completed simultaneously over three weeks. Aging is one year in barriques, followed by 50 percent new beyond. There were 92 different block vinifications during the 2022 harvest at Château Montrose. Malolactic begins directly after the alcoholic fermentation – they are contiguous, not simultaneous. At Château Les Carmes Haut Brion the new chapter is written through winemaker Guillaume Pouthier’s infusion methods whereby whole berries and whole bunches are layered mille-feuille style for a new kind of submerged cap way of keeping juice at the top and the most gentle way of breaking down skins without any crush. At Château Cheval Blanc the prefernce is to do all fermentations in concrete vats, remove the skins at the initial alcoholic fermentation and not to handle things simultaneously. The cellar master’s job is to make everything “fine,” not more.

Harvest team at Latour

Château Phélan Ségur’s yeast program pays homage to its bacterial history – isolated yeasts strains are propagated from l’Enclos, the heart of the vineyard and historical Phélan plot, then used to ferment only that plot, in that vintage. “The initial results were exceptional , tells Managing Director Veronique Dausse, “and so in the subsequent vintage it was done with other plots in the north.” After three years of comparing to commercial yeasts the realization was had that vintage does not effect outcomes and that indigenous yeasts create more consistent typicity, so long as a cocktail of yeasts are employed from plot to plot, as well as no cross contamination between fermentations. Some merlot in the south have been added this year to be part of the experimentation.

Lunch at Pichon Baron

At Château Margaux less and less merlot is being used and so new plantings are mostly cabernet sauvignon but increasingly also cabernet franc. Not yet certified but fully organic practices have been followed since 2019. Depending on the vintage Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s new oak usage is 70-80 percent. Château Bellefont-Belcier’s technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny insists on cellar conditions that are clean, clean, clean and low, low, low fermentation temperatures. The wine was classified in 2006, ferments are partially pressed, free-run juice is key, concrete tanks stabilize the wines and they use just 30 percent new oak. Troplong-Mondot’s Aymeric de Gironde uses cold macerations and one-third pumpovers through the course of a day.

Please don’t call them “Second Wines”

“Calling them second wines is a mistake,” insists Château Haut-Brion’s Guillaume Alexandre Marx, “and it always has been.” All one has to do is consider the farming. “It’s the same as it is for the Grand Vin. Several “other” wines were tasted at chateaus along both the Left and Right Banks and while terms like second and third were conjured, the nomenclature has long since drifted away from these kinds of notions. Today they encompass labels like Château Lacoste Borie, Duluc De Branaire Ducru, Le Dragon De Quintus, Les Forts de Latour, Les Tourelles de Longueville, Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Pauillac, Verso, Echo de Lynch Bages Famille J M Cazes, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, Pagus De Lagrange, Les Fleurs du Lac, La Dame de Château Montrose, Margaux de Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton, Baron de Brane Henri Lurton, Le “C” des Carmes Haut-Brion, Haut Bailly II, “G” d’Estournel, “Lions de Sudiuraut,” Les Tours de Belcier, Mondot de Troplong Mondot, Le Petit and Indie de Monbadon. There are dozens more but these are but the examples tasted in the last year.

Château La Croix St. Georges

Older vintages and 150 tasting notes

The collective theme of the last 15 months seems to have focused on maturing, yet far from tiring Bordeaux vintages. Many pours have come from the 2014, 2012 and 2011 vintages. Less than heralded ones it has oft been noted though today the three are drinking beautifully. Hard not to be privy to the notion that the chateaus pouring these wines are in that requiem period of needing to sell some cases sooner rather than later, but the other truth is when wines are showing well they open more doors more than close them. Skeptics would say the opposite but truth is truth and the ’11s and ‘14s especially are in a special place. The terroir is truly there. How do we know? Freshness and transparency. Is that not exactly what to expect from a high quality wine of Bordeaux? At a Domaines Clarence Dillon tasting in Toronto last year Guillaume Alexandre Marx chose 2012 because “it is a vintage I love and it has now entered into it’s drinking window.” Coincidentally speaking the vintage is also one that equates quality with quantity, meaning they are sure to impress and there is still some product to be sold. Other vintages are either not ready, are much scarcer or just don’t meet the quality. Old Bordeaux are the sort to hover right there with rhythmic, syncopated and metronomic pace. Wines that maintain composure with aromatic perfume and the sweet development of acidity while tannins are essentially and fully resolved.

Looking out over Pauillac from Château Lynch-Bages

In September 2023 the vintages being poured were mainly 2019 and 2018, though a few 2021s and 2020s as well, while the overall range was greater than what is generally offered out of most regions worldwide. The 18’s are Bordeaux of a warm vintage (though ’19 and ’20 took it further) but there is just something about the wines on the 9’s, especially on the Left Bank. Lush, enveloping productions, in Pauillac so luxuriant they gloss over aesthetic differences between varieties and seamlessly ties them together. For Saint-Julien the wines are chewy, both the wood and also tannin are grand, though also sweet, enticing and overall quite amenable. As for Saint-Éstephe well the wood is big, grip is formidable and tannins remain mired in the gravel and clay, not nearly wanting to release the fruit for accessible play. But the concentration and precision are wholly impressive and the impression left is serious indeed. Not a complicated year but the wines are stiff, know how important this life is and what it will be. A top ranking vintage for Bordeaux as a rule but for Saint-Estèphe the glory is real. For Péssac-Léognan a crazy concentrated and also spicy vintage, of savour, county character, salt and pepper seasoning. Beautiful rusticity, fine chalky tannins and length down a long gravel road.

In Saint-Émilion there is this mouthful of fruit freshness, sharp and pointed acidity that culminates in major tannin adding up to seriously proper tension. The cabernet franc leads, fills, expands and creates what can only be described as an explosion upon the palate. When merlot hits right it transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019s but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. As for Pomerol, more variegation but every layer is deeper and richer than the last. If 2018, 2020 and 2021 build and build then 2019 is compact, not dense but composed of many films upon films and there is this pressed leathery fruit aspect indicated by the aromatic wealth. People will swoon and die for this kind of luxe Pomerol and the tannins are dutiful, carrying the weight and extending the life of 2019 for what will be many years to come. All this to say stock up on 2019. The following are 150 reviews for wines tasted in Bordeaux back in September 2023, along with three previous 2022 visits from producers and négociants in Toronto.

Pauillac

Château d’Armailhac 2017, AC Pauillac

A blend of 67 cabernet sauvignon with (22) merlot, (7) cabernet franc and (4) petit verdot. Warm vintage and dry for the most part but June saw some rain so Bordeaux fared quite well as compared to many parts of Europe. Early flowering and equally early harvest meant concentrated and quick to ripen grapes. You can feel some desiccation but freshness still finds a way to persist. As per 2017 the acids are sharp, pointed and intense. Not a dusty Pauillac per se but one that castes a long shadow with high tones. Ready to drink, requiring food that seeks acidity and good for a few years yet. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Clerc Milon 2016, AC Pauillac

Both winter and spring were wet but then the faucets turned off, all the way to harvest and through 2017. More than half the annual rainfall came in that spring and yet the vintage is looked at overall as being a dry one. The mix in 2016 is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, (29) merlot, (13) cabernet franc, (2) petit verdot and (1) carmenère. The merlot grows on cooler ground near the Gironde and it falls into line between the dominant sauvignon and the cumulative support of the herbal, pyrazine, tannic and toasty group. No doubt this is about as rich, luxe and substantial as it gets for Clerc Milon. Berries and espresso coagulate and coexist in a vacuum of sweet acidity and also tannin. Still tight and dropping hints of grip, power and force, yet to dissolve or dissipate, not even in the slightest. Big and stylish. Is it a C-M for the ages? Quite possibly, allegedly and ostensibly. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Mouton Rothschild 2015, AC Pauillac

No doubt an excellent vintage, even or especially by Château Mouton Rothschild standards with the all important balance between heat units, water and elongation for even ripening and ultimately balance. The 2015 is cabernet sauvignon dominant at 82 percent with (16) merlot and (2) cabernet franc. Just a pup this full, concentrated and mighty Pauillac but also so elastic, pliable, supple and surely generous. The acids are in utter control, an encapsulation of a vintage that wants to give but knows better and so it plays hard to get and we exercise patience. This is the Bordeaux equivalence of the Italian croccante, as a crisp, almost crunchy and markedly stony red. The soil tells the true story and then there is this matter of power matched equally by restraint for harmony of Mouton style. Never precious, always elegant, classic and stylish, great beauty incarnate without trying to impress, not even for a moment. Will age ever so slowly over three decades and likely live for another three or more, above and

Château Latour 2018, AC Pauillac

No fruit from Latour’s L’Enclos are used for the second and this third wine, only the more recently acquired plots in other parts of Pauillac. In this vintage a higher amount (12 percent) of petit verdot joins the cabernet sauvignon and merlot, bringing more peppery spice to the very fruity, especially for the vintage blend. As fresh as has been tasted for 2018 and drinking really well straight away. That said the structure is more than adequate and five more years easy remain for this level and epoch of consumption. Thirty minutes of air brings out more and more fruit. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Latour Les Forts de Latour 2017, AC Pauillac

Certainly much more taut and also firmer than the ’18 Pauillac with both the warmth and also the acid capture of the 2017 vintage. A more savoury Latour as well with just splashes of petit verdot and cabernet franc as salt and pepper seasoning to the nearly two-thirds cabernet sauvignon with merlot. Minty Pauillac this Les Forts, cool and juicy but as mentioned, still really tight. Classy wine all around with a more linear construct that will seek three more years of development. Dusty cocoa and espresso at the finish. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Latour

Château Latour Grand Vin 2011, AC Pauillac

The Grand Vin in 2015 is almost exclusively cabernet sauvignon (at 97.1 percent) with (2.6) and merlot and a quick splash of petit verdot. It’s clearly a more varietal focused Grand Vin than most, celebrating L’Enclos of Latour at the eastern and southern end of Pauillac. Vines that share terroir with Leoville Las Cases and here it just feels like perfection is the goal. OCD and non-compromised focus to make the purist, most complete Pauillac that is possible. This may have been one of the lesser heralded vintages in Bordeaux but as Latour it remains locked in tight, far from letting go and sure of its constitution, but also ambition. There are no flaws in this wine, the suit is tailored, the hair perfectly coiffed and the etiquette on point. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2019, AC Pauillac

Not considered a “third wine” for Château Pichon Baron but one composed by selected plots of Pauillac. Primarily merlot (80 percent) with 20 cabernet sauvignon. More than ample and substantial vintage for such a wine and in fact this is likely just about as rich and luxe as it gets for Pauillac. Chalky, liquid grainy and still churning through its inner workings for a CBP3 to drink just about as soon as you are wanting to enjoy one. Good acidity as well, semi-sweet and flirtatious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Les Tourelles de Longueville 2019, AC Pauillac

Deuxième Vin du Château. Majority of cabernet sauvignon at 63 percent, from the terroir west of the state near Château Batailley. The merlot component is 32 percent, followed by (4) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. Certainly more grip and intensity as compared to the Pauillac but no less fruit in fact more plushness and layering are involved. The tannins here are just a bit austere and currently demanding so give this another year or two before readying glasses, a tasting and dinner that involves this ’19 Tourelles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2018, AC Pauillac

A challenging vintage for many but this is a glorious 2018 from the word go, perfumed and Pauillac pretty as per what Château Pichon Baron just has to be. Since 2012 the wine is shortened as simply Château Pichon Baron to eliminate any confusion with the property that includes the Comtesse. From terroir that includes clay and also chalk beneath which makes for two-way conversions of both water retention and drainage. A crunchy Pauillac, like a mouthful of berries and gravel to indicate how far away this wine is from integrating and fully liquifying into its sure to arrive silky smooth mouthful and mouthfeel. Tannins are full and still in their infancy but the fruit is exceptional for the vintage. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2016, AC Pauillac

Griffons is sold through the Place de Bordeaux négociants with more cabernet sauvignon (the young vines not suitable for Pichon Baron) as opposed to Les Tourelles de Longueville which is a parcel selection, mainly of merlot. Dark fruit, richer than many second wines and a true mini Pichon with truer to life chalky structure. Grippy and intense, full throttle and as Bordeaux very much a serious wine that falls into a fine line designed and led by the Grand Vin from Pichon Baron. Very fine. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2014, AC Pauillac

Must be be said that this ’14 is showing with remarkable freshness while also full concentration that now slides and glides over the palate. Aromatically on par, as luxe and smooth with blessedly immaculate acidity, all aligned to speak for a maligned vintage that is high time it were universally declared as exceptional. Longevity makes up a great part of the equation and while nine years is a sneeze for top end Bordeaux it should never be taken for granted. The preserved freshness, an absence of crispy or crunchy bites and instead just this ease up on the palate. Adds up to a wine of distinct and philanthropic expression. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2009, AC Pauillac

A wine that the team says was always approachable from the very beginning. There is just something about the 9’s in Bordeaux and especially Pauillac. The Abbey Road of Bordeaux, expressive of persistent peak freshness at this 13-14 year mark and will continue to show a similar ilk plus remarkable longevity for that many years more. Lush, enveloping production, a Pauillac so luxuriant it glosses over aesthetic differences between the wine’s varieties and seamlessly ties them together. Nary a moment’s secondary character and from a consciously cerebral point of thought this makes little to no sense. Yet there are times when vintage, appellation, estate and the universe conspire in the most magical of ways. “He say one and one and one is three” and so 2009, Château Pichon Longueville Baron and Pauillac “come together, over me.” Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2022, Pauillac

Most perfumed recent bottling in fact the aromatic concentration is the best of a string of vintages between 2017 and this 2022. Pine evergreen again but most floral as well. Palate concentration as well, richly textured, layered and substantial from start to finish. Great variegate red fruit and without a doubt one of the finest Verso from Haut-Batailley from the Cazes family since taking control of these vineyards in 2017. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2021, Pauillac

Only in this vintage we find cabernet sauvignon at 40 percent with more (60) merlot and it really shows in the doubling down verdancy of the wine. Pine forest and solvent, roasted and toasted elements, some weedy-vegetal aspects and even a bit of reduction. Tart, tight, intense and far from relenting, either by austerity or chains of tannic command. Wait two years to allow some wood integration and the promise of a fleshing by the fruity parts. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2020, Pauillac

The first vintage made by current technical director Julien Galland and a notable change in style from what came before. More up front fruit and roundness, not soft because how can it be and the toasty elements are in line with the three previous vintages. Warm vintage but no 2018 here, yet somewhat weedy in that there is always a level of verdancy in these Verso labels. Chewy, with liquorice and some partially dried, leathery fruit. Well made for sure. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2019, Pauillac

Clearly a next step up in understanding of what this fruit means at Haut-Batailley with great help from the generosity and ease of 2019. Increased richness, concentration and layers of structure create a new oeuvre for a Pauillac that now begins to mean serious business. The nose is exuberant in delivery of much warmth, umami and spice before morphing into major stage presence with respect to mouthfeel. Minty cool savour again and some toasted elements. A thread of barrel style really runs through these three wines between 2017 and 2019 but the last one also happens to brings the fruit. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2018, Pauillac

A per the vintage the results across Bordeaux and even within Pauillac are variable, here with a slight stemmy character that comes across in variegate reds and greens. Much richer and developed on the palate with wood well integrated, spices running amok and a fine chalkiness. Very different to the 2017, lower in acid and yet the smoky, roasted fruit and toasty elements are consistent. Quite complex for 2018 and still rising towards its crescendo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2017, Pauillac

The first vintage under the auspices of the Cazes family after purchasing the property in March of 2017. Only cabernet sauvignon (60 percent) and merlot, palate soft but with those perfectly elevating ’17 acids and wood that still sits up front with the fruit. Righteous verdancy, savoury and cool, of mint and a moment’s note of eucalyptus. Smoky in this regard and into roasted nightshades from a Pauillac that holds no cabernet franc. Unique 2017 in all respects, with good energy and toasty red fruit. A curious case of beginner’s experience. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2022, AC Pauillac

Spends 16 months in (65 percent) new barrels from six different coopers. The richest of all the Batailley wines, bar none, incredibly tannic and indelibly stamped with these vines and this appellation like no other. So many unresolved issues here, tannins so implosive and insular coiled so tightly around the fruit. Rich and generous but you’d hardly know it when you feel the extenuating circumstances of major structure. Drink 2027-2035. Barrel sample tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2021, AC Pauillac

The aim is 65 percent cabernet sauvignon with merlot and when the 2019 petit verdot plantings come into play they will take up approximately four percent of the blend. The 2021 is a bit of a verdant one, with fruit variegate between reds and some greens, liquorice and plum, evergreen savour and leathery fruit. Chalky in 2021, some tannic austerity and time needed to resolve all the parts. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2020, AC Pauillac

The first vintage of the Grand Vin made by current technical director Julien Galland is a major step up from the Verso label with a fine perfume and a most impressive level of concentration on the palate. An almost chewy Pauillac, of liquorice and so many red fruit aromas but even more so flavours. Impressive showing and a really stoic, partially impenetrable, far from showy and yet truly generous Batailley. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2019, AC Pauillac

The best of recent vintages (perhaps until the ‘22s come along) because fruit generosity is at the peak and balance is far more obvious amongst all the parts. Perfumed in ways that neither 2017 nor 2018 were able to accomplish and no trail away or off as it pertains to the texture and stage presence of the palate. Smooth and silken, tightly grained, compact and in charge. Really well made and true to the holy trinity of vintage, terroir and appellation. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2018, AC Pauillac

Whereas the finest fruit from 2017 was surely allocated to the Grand Vin it seems like 2018 was more of a split. This because of the challenge of vintage, hot and bothered and so there is a close affinity with the younger Verso sibling. Thicker on the palate, rich with a wood-influenced mix of chocolate and café. Some stem-weedy character is consistent with the Verso and here also some heat on the finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2017, AC Pauillac

The first year of the Haut-Batailley Fifth Growth classified Pauillac under the guise of the newly owned Cazes family. The typical spice in both aroma and also on the palate that is both Batailley and also Pauillac. You can sense the vintage acids straight from the nose whereas the mouthfeel sparks in fits because of the reaction between terroir and season. Quite fine for 2017 and chalky, tart and tight as well. This will continue to age and drink well. Major step up from the Verso bottling. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages Echo de Lynch Bages Famille J M Cazes 2016, AC Pauillac

The second wine of Lynch Bages has been named thus since 2008 though it existed for three decades before that. Like Ormes de Pez this is a very good Left Bank vintage and so Pauillac is also a place of great potential. Still a very young wine though minty and cooler with sweet acids singing in their vocal range of increased verbosity and generosity. This E de LB will do nothing but please beginning this year and will stay the course for a few more. The real secondary notes will likely begin in 2025 or 2026. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted September 2023

At Château Lynch Bages with Jean-Charles Cazes

Château Lynch Bages 2014, AC Pauillac

Here again comes the sleeper vintage, unassuming and under the radar, now coming into its own across the Left Bank. A Bordeaux that speaks in a local vernacular, liquid chalky and grainy, still churning through inner workings and coming together for pleasure and beauty. Yet another estate pouring 2014 and for good reason because perhaps any time ahead of now the vintage may not have shown as well as it is now. Skeptics would say the opposite but truth is truth and the ‘14s are in a special place. The terroir is truly here. How do we know? Freshness and transparency. Is that not exactly what to expect from a high quality wine of Pauillac? Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages 2003, AC Pauillac

Memory recalls and speaks of a very warm Bordeaux vintage but appellation matters and for Lynch Bages the northerly Pauillac location fared very, very well. No tertiary as of yet, only the maturing mid-points of secondary life. Hovering right there with rhythmic, syncopated and metronomic pace. Maintains its composure with aromatic perfume and the sweet development of its acidity while the tannins are essentially and fully resolved. Ideal to drink now as a mature Pauillac and should stay in this zone for up to five more years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages 1995, AC Pauillac

Mon dieu what a spicy nose on the Lynch Bages 1995! Limestone chalky mineral bites as well, with cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and still thriving acidity. Served as a pairing with salty (extra vielle) Mimolette and the old hard orange cheese works magic with the spice cupboard of the LB95. Yes the wine is also rich and chocolaty but the lack of tertiary qualities and persistence of freshness are what makes for the extraordinary match. Classic Bordeaux abilities and experience on full display with cool northerly Pauillac character. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Sepetmber 2023

Château Pontet-Canet 2014, AC Pauillac

The second last vintage where a second wine was produced as that was eliminated after the 2015 vintage. Biodynamic since 2004, Demeter certified since 2010. This being the 5th vintage and here again the window for tasting 2014 from Pauillac because they are simply wines that needed time. As do all but the near nine year mark seems to be the sweet spot and this perhaps even a bit further ahead having been poured from a half bottle. Love the perfume and the acidity, both sweet and vibrant, up there at the height of appellative heights. No stringency but there is some power and the finish is a pure, contiguous continuation of a primed and balanced expression. Still just a wee bit of unresolved chalkiness at the finish so there is some work yet to be done. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Julien

Château Léoville Poyferré Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré 2017, AC Saint-Julien

Second wine of Château Léoville Poyferré that used to include fruit from the Moulin Riche vineyards but is now exclusively from Poyferré estate. The blend in 2017 begins with 58 percent cabernet sauvignon, followed by (27) merlot, (9) cabernet franc and (6) petit verdot. Two weeks of harvest began on September 20th and while this does not come crashing over the palate or clamp down with a wall of tannin it does instead fill and grip like one wishes it would. This after six years from harvest and with settled balance. A fine wine in a fine place wth sweet balsamic acidity and just that right amount of polish. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Moulin Riche 2016, AC Saint-Julien

A late or maybe better said classic harvest, from October 5th to 20th with nearly two-thirds cabernet sauvignon plus (26) merlot and (11) petit verdot. A vintage so very rich in wood, texture and spice. Carries a lot of wood and does so very well but the ambition mimics or rather falls into line with the Grand Vin of Château Léoville Poyferré. No cabernet franc and it shows, with an absence of pyrazine and roasted nightshade but instead more decadent chocolate ganache and fine, fine coffee. Finishes long and strong. Should very well last a good bunch more years. Fulsome and a Bordeaux on the edge of Saint Julien with focus and trenchant purpose. Drink 2023-2029.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2015, AC Saint-Julien

Harvested in classic timely fashion, from the 24th of September through October 10th and the blend is eerily similar to the ’16 Moulin Riche. The difference being there is some cabernet franc (3 percent) with (6) petit verdot. This is indeed a St. Julien that saw, soaked up and made use of its barrels, in the most substantial and luxe way. Chewy appellative wine, spiced and more floral than expected. Acids are exceptional for 2015 and tannins are certainly no slouch. A big LP pressed to both sides, each running longer than 40 minutes. Drink 2025-2034.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2014, AC Saint-Julien

The blend is 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, (35) merlot, (3) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. The underrated and understated vintage strikes again though it feels like St. Julien matures a little bit quicker than Pauillac. There are some leathery and drying fruit secondary notes with the very beginnings umami of truffle and cèpe. In lovely condition and ready for consumption. Drink 2023-2028.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2010, AC Saint-Julien

Warm vintage and while it really shows it’s also quite floral, lifted and refined. ’Twas an 18 day harvest culminating on October 18th with the finished blend at 56 percent cabernet sauvignon, (34) merlot, (7) petit verdot and (3) cabernet franc. So much wood and hard to believe how little this has matured but also how much the structure needs to allow fora settle. A truly magnanimous and blanketing vintage, a flannel of warmth and nurture for a wine’s thick and unctuous texture. Return in 18 months to two years to see what’s what and where it’s at. Drink 2024-2034.Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange

Château Lagrange Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2019, AC Saint-Julien

The second wine of Château Lagrange that came about because until 1982 all the best plots created the grand vin. A second wine needed to be created for the remainder of the grapes, thus the first vintage was 1983. The next stage happens with Mattieu Bordes and his wish to separate the plots themselves, for the first and second wines. And so there is more Les Fiefs made and the average vine age pulled for this wine is 30 years-old, with some 55-60 year-old vines participating in the final blend. Lowest blocks below the slope are here, more importantly because of the composition of those soils. A high caste, highly thoughtful and thorough Les Fiefs that made up 70 percent of the vintage’s total production. The blend in 2019 was 53 percent cabernet sauvignon, (44) merlot and (3) cabernet franc. True red fruit 93vintage, of the sweetest acids, now wholly approachable and in a great window of accessibility and responsibility. Freshness persists, hot vintage or not (aren’t they all) and easily the finest second wine Lagrange has ever produced. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2019, AC Saint-Julien

Smaller quantity because more Les Fiefs (with a higher amount of merlot) was made out of 2019 and so this 40 percent of production was a blend of 80 percent cabernet sauvignon with (18) merlot and (2) petit verdot. Another 2019 that can actually be consumed now or maximum two years from now. Should but will almost for sure go another 15 years. A chewy ’19 and both the wood and also tannin are grand, though also sweet, enticing and overall quite amenable. A special third growth wine to be frank and sure, not to mention great value as compared to others in Saint-Julien that cost 2.5 or three times the price. Brilliant stuff that’s affordable and happy to please. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2018, AC Saint-Julien

Very warm vintage (though ’19 and ’20 took it further) and so expect richness, concentration and also layers of tannin. Truthfully speaking the acidity climbs the ladder and perches at this very high level to match, buoy and elevate that fruit. A vintage of small berries with 45 percent skins and (55) juice that could not be heavily extracted. Which it was not and so there really is very little austerity, though there is tension and grip. This was the highest level of VA ever (so only at 0.59 g/L) but compared to the 0.4-0.5 usual number it is noted indeed. Th alcohol is 14.76 but it feels like 14, or even less. Especially if the wine is just so slightly chilled and because the wood on Lagrange never interferes with its bright and pure red fruit. So feel free to give them a bit of a chill. Less wood (at only 60 percent new) and it shoes in the best, fresh and easiest going way. By the way the blend out of 2018 was 67 percent cabernet sauvignon with (28) merlot and (5) petit verdot. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Les Fleurs du Lac 2016, AC Bordeaux

A second wine to the top white Médoc made by Château Lagrange and here at seven years of age. The blend is 60 sauvignon blanc and 20 each sémillon and sauvignon gris, in delivery of citrus namely but more than one variety and at this point quite fleshy and gelid. Showing some maturity but how could it not and there is some exoticism and fantasy here. That includes mango and passion fruit but the wine shows its lees with distinction. Acids are present and persistent though nothing that could be called excitable. Pretty solid second wine in white clothing. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2010, AC Saint-Julien

Huge perfume from this 75-25, cabernet sauvignon-merlot Lagrange which was (at the time) the second highest amount of cabernet sauvignon in a grand estate wine. There is some pine evergreen in this vintage and tasted blind I would suggest a cooler vintage, perhaps 2014 but there is more concentration and a tighter grain of tannin. Amazing freshness and persistence so despite some ‘10s being mature and advanced this is really fresh. Liquorice, a meatiness almost charcuterie but not quite and plenty of fresh fruit. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2003, AC Saint-Julien

An older vintage of Château Lagrange composed of 57 percent cabernet sauvignon with (33) merlot and (10) petit verdot that has more than stood the test of time. Especially because 2003 was warm but this is as about as fresh a vintage wine, especially for Saint-Julien, as there surely was ever made. The red fruit, the liquorice like the 2010 and more elasticity here. Incredible that it has remained this fresh, vital and energetic. Truthfully. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Estèphe

Château Cos Labory 2018, AC St Estèphe

The last acquisition by Michel Reybier (owner of Châteay Cos d’Estournel) and a property of 35 hectares with southwest slopes (as opossed to those of northeast at Cos). “The idea,” explains Géraldine Giroux “is never to swallow Labory into d’Estournel but to commit to keeping and making it a terroir driven wine that will compliment.” The 2018 is a gritty, tough, grippy and well, classic Saint-Estèphe of a linear and upright style. The purchase happened in April of 2023 so the wine is still very much one of its previous owners, they being the three brothers and custodians of the estate. Production will be kept at 80-90,000 bottles with the style moving into one that will be modernized, more easily accessible and less oak-aged. Plenty sturdy this ’18, local, parochial and austere. Needs two years to arrive at its first destination. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Duck, Château Cos d’Estournel

Château Cos d’Estournel 2014, AC St Estèphe

Indelibly stamped with its particular Saint-Estèphe DNA and to be honest at nine years of age still an impenetrable and immovable force. An earliest stage of development, crawling through infancy, likely because there was much less rain in this part of Bordeaux and so picking choices/times were more about the team’s discretion. Freshness persists, as do spice notes and tobacco. Balanced yet tight, not rigid but instead elastic despite its impenetrability. Silken, like liquid cocoa, high-toned, with a surety of confidence and high quality fruit. The purity makes us trust what it will become and how this ’18 will slowly evolve over the next two decades. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Le Crock 2017, Saint Estèphe

From a property purchased in 1903 by the family that owned Poyferré, meaning the sister after the estate was split from Léovile Las Cases post French Revolution. Minty cool, tart, tight and burgeoning with 2017 acidity. Not as fine as either Moulin Riche and obviously not close to Château Léoville Poyferré but the quality, winemaking and yeoman work are perfectly commendable. Le Crock should be there to pair with what’s in your pot. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

The gravels of Phélan Ségur

Château Phélan Ségur 2022, AC Saint-Estèphe

Barrel Sample – Hard not to hear the excitement over the 22s and though this is an en primeur tasting it is is already blended from a neutral barrel. Divine attention and distinction here and worthy of being praised as the best Château Phélan Ségur there has likely ever been made. At least in very modern times and a wine that is the result of new ownership, direction and experimentation, especially indigenous yeast strain work. Lots of wood yes but also fruit off the charts, a sexy swarthiness, sweet acids and equally elegant tannins. This will woo, attract and impress but please, allow it to settle in. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2021, AC Saint-Estèphe

A challenging one but oh so very perfumed, spiced to the hilt and aromatically chalky. Some verdancy, a real savoury element but not like the umami of 2014. Unique vintage, three quarters cabernet sauvignon with (21 percent) merlot and (4) petit verdot. Pine or cedar boughs, take your pick but evergreen is a thing. Really young and far from showing any maturity, to no surprise but my this is a tight but surely focused Bordeaux. Says colleague John Szabo M.S., “très flatteur.” Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2020, AC Saint-Estèphe

It seems already that 2020 shares some affinity with 2015 in that beauty, warmth, substantial fruit and accessibility are all apart of this beautiful package. Just a bit more than half cabernet sauvignon wth (42 percent merlot) and (2 each) petit verdot and cabernet franc. Not as warm a vintage and maybe not quite ready but it’s surely getting close. Carries that Château Phélan Ségur feeling that is not just Saint-Estèphe but truly speaking of and from this two-toned terroir. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blend in 2019 is 56 percent cabernet sauvignon with (42) merlot and (2) cabernet franc and while there is a tightness that persists there is no lack for heavy fruit and fuel. The wood is big, grip is formidable and tannins remain mired in the gravel and clay, not nearly wanting to release the fruit for accessible play. But the concentration and precision are wholly impressive and the impression left is serious indeed. Not a complicated year but the wine is stiff and knows how important it is and what it will be. No gamble here – age this 10-12 years and it will become as fine a Château Phélan Ségur as ever, especially in this new Belgian ownership-led era that began just a year earlier. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2018, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blend in 2019 is 57 percent cabernet sauvignon with (43) merlot straight away and of the last five vintages this is expressive of the least amount of fruit concentration. As such the wood shows greater and with more chocolate, espresso and spice. Huge wine but not across all of its constituent parts, but time is surely needed to see it soften. Food wine as well, a must because the fruit deficiency will require salty protein. A leathery and cedar-woody Château Phélan Ségur but they are all their own children so treat this with as much love as all the rest. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2023

The Canadians with Château Phélan Ségur Managing Director Veronique Dausse

Château Phélan Ségur 2017, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blending is always more or less 55 percent cabernet sauvignon and (45) merlot. A precise, direct and understood Saint-Estèphe as the story is told and explained by Château Phélan Ségur. High aromatic concentration and intensity but also wood that has yet to fully integrate into the heavy fruit elements of this still fresh and pulsating wine. Acids are felt on a palate that sends you back for a perfume in reprise, with violets and a whiff of unlit if also sweet tobacco leaf. The most complex of the three wines tasted together (with ’15 and ’14) because it’s both beautiful and austere. Needs just another year, whereas the ’14 asks for two and the ’15 already easily ready to go. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2015, AC Saint-Estèphe

A normal vintage with a bit more cabernet sauvignon (at 57 percent) and a finish to harvest after the most beautiful August and September. Fulsome and substantial Saint-Estèphe, accessible even now so therefore an earlier to drink vintage that attracts plenty of international attention. Still the DNA indeed links it to both 2014 and 2017 to tell us that vineyards and terroir are ultimately what make this wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2014, AC Saint-Estèphe

In 2014 the blend was more cabernet sauvignon dominant at 65 percent but harvest had to happen late to make sure ripeness gained as much as possible. Quantity declines but 2014 is the sleeper vintage, especially in this appellation and the wine is still shy, closed and yet to truly emerge. Tannic and a bit austere with some verdancy though it’s a really unique and grippy kind of savoury. A Château Phélan Ségur of true umami, unique and intriguing, a wait and see what it still may become kind of Bordeaux. Give it another year, preferably two. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose

Château Montrose La Dame de Château Montrose 2012, AC Saint-Estèphe

Back in 2012 the blend was 76 percent merlot and (24) cabernet sauvignon, the merlot coming from the western terraces and also those closest to the river. Not considered a second wine but a separate entity, mainly because it is one of those rare high-end merlot dominant wines on the West Bank. Horsey with Brettanomyces present which was likely a vintage specific thing and now that the aromas are well into the secondary it really stands out. Great texture, riveting actually if also making for some hard and brittle moments but the palate does not express the fault as much. Will be a difficult wine for some because of the funk though many will enjoy the 50-60 day aged prime rib aspect to the wine. Would have shown its best a few years back though complexity is more than exemplary. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose La Dame de Château Montrose 2017, AC Saint-Estèphe

A merlot (49 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (43) with (4 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot form what was simply, unequivocally and surely a lovely vintage, especially in Saint-Julien and here in Saint-Estèphe. Might have been hot in Italy and warmer in Bourgogne but not in Bordeaux. All that said this ’17 is really pretty, so very floral of iris and violet, blue to black fruit as per this appellation and the chalkiness has now come into this most ideal liquidity. A sharp, simply beautiful, elegant and palate skimming Dame of true glissade. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

Top ranking vintage for Bordeaux as a rule but for Saint-Estèphe the glory is real. A passionate Grand Vin in total control of its senses and emotions, the florals adding red roses to the violets and then also some red fruit to complete the whole spectrum possible. As upfront and immediately gratifying as a Montrose could possibly be and yet the reigns must be pulled back because getting ahead would be wrong. That said there is more beauty and accessibility on the palate while the acids strike that amazing accord between sweetness and tight intensity. They are in control along with lace-pulled tight tannins that loosen and then tighten again. They tease and then pull back so that the palate and senses are managed, encouraged to not be too excited and look to the future. The ’19 Montrose expresses no highs or lows and is simply a semi-salty wine of perfume, colour, self-reflection and response. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose 2012, AC Saint-Estèphe

The eleven years have brought about the early workings and meanderings of secondary character and there is some funk involved, if fractious as compared to La Dame. Here cabernet sauvignon at 62 percent leads, with (32) merlot, (4) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. The Grand Vin comes from the central terraces of the estate between the plots on the river and the merlot to the east. True blue florals and that classic blue to black Saint-Estèphe fruit. Still quite tannic though they are softer and sweeter than they must have been, even just two or three years ago. In the end it’s hard not to see this 2012 as beauty incarnate. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Tronquoy 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

Used to be Château Tronquoy-Lalande but the L was dropped in 2019. Different winemaking team but sharing information, research and philosophy with older sibling (and same ownership) Montrose. Soils are really gravelly with larger stones like Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a truly unique terroir for Saint-Estèphe for wines that punch well above their (lack of) classification. Monsieur Tronquoy was a royalist and thus the new packaging-labelling plays on the national blue colour. The blend in 19 is 50 percent merlot, (44) cabernet sauvignon and (6) petit verdot. More clay composition at the surface in the Tronqouy soils as opposed to sister property Montrose (and also Dame de Montrose) where that clay lays lower, below the sand and gravels. Freshness and major perfume, a gloriously floral Saint-Estèphe from the most generous of vintages. Violets and roses, berries and currants, just a mess of flowers and fruit. Not without a chalky tannic presence so another year will help bring it all together. Like a Premier Cru Santenay as a Bordeaux from clay that really comes to play. Highest end production resulted in 90,000 bottles out of 2019. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Ormes De Pez 2016, AC Saint Estèphe Cru Bourgeois

The land was purchased in 1942 by Jean-Charles Cazes’ grandfather, after first investing and farming in 1939. Having just tasted the 2009 Château Ormes de Pez this 2016 comes with acquired knowledge. Knowing now what was not known before, that being excellence will most surely come 13-14 years post vintage, when that year was a top quality one. A king harvest, fresh as can be for a decade and a half and so the dusty and tannic nature of this ’16 is nothing to fear. The wine will begin to settle soon and reveal the great fruit of the season. High acid and leathery, balsamic quality and chalky, high in energy and also truly concentrated. Full, complete and of major potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023.

Château Ormes De Pez 2009, AC Saint Estèphe Cru Bourgeois

Not every chateau will have crafted and created such aromatic delicacy and satiny texture out of very good 2009 vintage but this by Château Ormes De Pez is one such example. An impressive back vintage showing for the property acquired by Jean-Charles Cazes’ grandfather in 1942. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Cellars at Château Margaux

Margaux

Château Margaux Margaux de Château Margaux 2017, AP Margaux

First vintage was 2009 and today it’s the third of four wines made at Château Margaux, all created with estate fruit. Big fruit concentration and a notable chalkiness, limestone aromatic and also texturally speaking. Chewy Margaux, of two-toned liquorice and then what just feels like how we imagine graphite to translate into Bordeaux. Again it is 2017 that delivers great acidity while the substantial fruit variegates, mostly in fresh notes but with moments of leathery dried and skin musky as well. Third wine perhaps but truly persistent and leaving a lasting impression. The blend is 64 percent cabernet sauvignon, (32) merlot and (4) petit verdot. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux 2015, AP Margaux

The getable season, especially now in an eight year past vintage state, fruit still as fresh as can be. That said the wood in dark chocolate and macchiato tones delivers full blanketing coverage while also locking this 2015 in a state of immovability. Will become something so very fascinating as a mature 2015 with notes that imagine stewed plums and shoe polish but again there is the current if always in flux state of affairs for a wine that will change quite a lot over the next five years. 14 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Margaux 2011, AP Margaux

Twelve-plus years forward and talk about tight, but also precision and passion. High acid vintage and more merlot than more recent times so expect a verdancy and also a softness in the fruit that variegates into the next level organza of the cabernet sauvignon. The 2011 has yet to truly advance further forward into secondary territory but the hints are there and the moment seemingly imminent. The vintage is linear, upright and minty cool, here in Margaux as it was similarly in Pauillac, but what separates in this appellation are the florals, violets namely and also Cassis. Long and persistent Margaux, rich if elastic. 13 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

The tower at Château Brane Cantenac

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

Referred to as the third wine for Château Brane-Cantenac but really more like a licensee level of quality, for opening today and tomorrow. Mostly young vines and from everywhere, meaning it’s the only one of the three that is a selection. No matter because is carries the DNA of the place and at this stage in the estate’s evolution is part of the newer winemaking and agriculture. More cabernet in this vintage and there are faint memories of a vintage’s tannins and truly a wine deigned for by the glass pours, always representative of Margaux. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

The third wine from Château Brane-Cantenac meant for restaurants with the DNA and current quality of the estate’s evolution. Mostly young vines fruit but what is essentially a selection of all the plots and blocks. Makes use of the “plateau,” an area closer to the D2 where vines produce fruit that can be consumed early. The round introduction and with an extra year of age it really is in that ideal window. Higher percentage of merlot while this 2020 carries more tannin than the 2021 and so this extra year really matters – but the wine will drink well for another three years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Baron de Brane Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

Barone is the second wine for Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac, aged in barriques, 20 percent new for approximately two years. Coming from two terraces, three and five (primarily) levels of the plateau not only recognized by the estate but also other Margaux estates that share these levels of terroir. This from 2021 is remarkably substantial of fruit, much more so than the Margaux de Brane but they are both easy and lovely wines. The tannins are quite fine here and the quality high from a really perfumed Margaux of that classic purple fruit. Only this appellation carries this quality and character, neither red, nor blue nor black but a mélange of all three. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Baron de Brane Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

More cabernet sauvignon from 2020 and therefore a real grip, restrained power and extraction matched or fold by richness. Might only be three or four percent but trust that it makes a difference. The tannins in this second wine for Château Brane-Cantenac are in charge and there is more tension than 2021 which goes against the fresh maturity of the wine. This specific plateau parcels’ blend looks at terraces three and five and makes them sing in harmony, though another year (or two) would be helpful to settle the grip (which to someone who has been there reminds of 1996), bring things together. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Grand Cru Classé Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

A whole other matter above and beyond the 2021 Margaux de Brane and Baron de Brane, third and second wines respectively for Château Brane-Cantenac. The Margaux DNA and tannin come from terroir is up front, in charge and so very serious for the estate. Fine, fine grains in chains of structure dictate the whole but the parts really begin with perfumes that are purely, expressly and for some, ostensibly Margaux. Liquid chalky already and more than hinting at the beauty and balance that are surely positioned at the not too distant horizon. Truly pretty, perfumed and charming Margaux, wise and knowing what needs to happen, which is great harmony before too long. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Grand Cru Classé Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

This previous to (2021) vintage of the Château Brane Cantenac is a bit more closed and grippy but also less perfumed as compared to that following Grand Vin. That said the DNA combination of Margaux perfume and a palette of cool fruits mixed into a beautiful purple florality bring a quality of fruit that is more than just a little bit distinct. Nothing vegetal or earthy about this, nor could there be, especially considering the appellation. The winemaking fully respects what must be done, to extract gently (if with more vigour than the 2nd and 3rd estate wines) because the top plots and blocks supply the necessary drupe and fodder for top quality, harmony and balance. Reps the property with distinction and also finesse. This needs three more years to integrate and show its best. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Marquis de Terme – Cuvée 1762 2018, AC Margaux

Pricing matters and it should be noted that the 2018 Château Marquis De Terme 2018 is $80 at the SAQ and the 2019 available at the LCBO is $86.85. This may be considered a “lesser” vintage (and 2019 is certainly a top quality one) but there can be some amazing diamonds in the proverbial Bordeaux rough when scores and/or hype are downgraded. Especially if a 4th Growth like this Margaux is expressive of low-level duff and earthy flavours. Which is the case here and it is recommended to both decant and allow time in the glass to urge forward, coax and draw out the famous Margaux perfume. Who could not love a high acid vintage and one equipped with sneaky structure? This is the Marquis’ quiet stature and joker of a playing card, to deliver subtlety and potential when many think it’s just not there. This will surprise many naysayers and at the price represents about as low risk a purchase as there is in growth Bordeaux. Last tasted January 2024

Hard to deny the Margaux style and content with a perfumed and silky Bordeaux that deals in appellative realities. Liquid chalky tannins for a classified growth right in the centre of that appellation and a wine that refers to the year when the Marquis de Terme first began to produce a cuvée. True cabernet sauvignon based Margaux, very much in common with Brane Cantenac but also Rauzan-Ségla and Château Margaux. A finessed 2018 from a warm vintage, focused and just as precise as exception would demand. Put it aside for two more years before knowing that the brightness and freshness of its charm will surely come forth. The blend is 77 percent cabernet sauvignon with (18) merlot and (5) petit verdot. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

City vineyard at Château des Carmes Haut Brion

Pessac Léognan

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Le “C” des Carmes Haut-Brion 2019, Pessac-Léognan

Not made from the city Clos vineyard but from the 35 hectares in the countryside of Pessac-Léognan. A mix of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, (38) cabernet franc and (2) pest verdot made with a maximum of 30 percent whole bunch, only on the cab but also on a portion of the cabernet franc and the petit verdot (in warm vintages), as this surely was. A crazy concentrated and also spicy vintage. Two years in (30 percent new) wood plus six months in concrete vat. A lovely combination of 13 percent alcohol restraint and high (3.6-3.7) pH for a wine of salt and pepper seasoning, Pessac savour and country character. Beautiful rusticity, fine chalky tannins and length down a long gravel road. Will age quite well, likely beyond expectation. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan

Extremely different vintage but not like ’17, here with much darker, riper and developed fruit. Freshness would have to have been a challenge but at 13.5 percent alcohol and high pH there comes this ulterior freshness with texture imposed by great and forceful will. More active infusion earlier on because there was so much colour and extraction on hand from a vintage where the blend was nearly the same as that of 2017. That being 38 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (27) merlot. There really is no other chateau that creates this style, a mix of salt and pepper seasoning over blue to black fruit and in 2018 the whole bunch inclusion was 60 percent. If you are buying high end Bordeaux from 2018 then Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the place to be, though it’s likely sold out wherever you may live. Just about nothing else in the Left Bank finds this level of quality, balance and success. The whole bunch “infusion” methodology controls the heat and excess of the vintage to deliver finesse, precision, restraint and honesty. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2017, AC Pessac Léognan

In 2017 the whole bunch number was 45 percent for 42 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (23) merlot. The second vintage of winemaker Guillaume Pouthier’s infusion methods whereby whole berries and whole bunches are layered mille-feuille style for a new kind of submerged cap way of keeping juice at the top and the most gentle way of breaking down skins without any crush. More reductive a vintage but subtly so and some amphora (10 per cent) is involved as well. The spongy blue clay and gravel top soil puts this is true blue aromatic status and a state of blissful violet perfume, but also light. Those ’17 acids are even higher here from the city vineyard than even Pauillac and Saint-Julien, rising to a crescendo where cabernet franc truly sings and tells a Pessac-Léognan story from within the Bordeaux city limits. With a little bit of noted, accepted and desired greenness it requires saying. As balanced as 2017 is want and will ever hope to be. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly Haut-Bailly II 2021, Grand Vin De Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan

Haut Bailly II began in 2018 and the third wine is called HB, allowing for a selection to be made for the II. Late-ish harvest from September 27th to October 11th for a blend of 70 percent merlot, (25) cabernet sauvignon, (3) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. A self-professed “come a long way” vintage that would not have made it this far without the attention and protection paid to the vines. A vintage of “reaction and adaptability,” because nature threw curveballs, even more so than it had in recent weather times. Frost namely and the loss of quantity, coupled with realizing that quality is everything comes to allow create this rich and powerfully restrained Pessac-Léognan. A true second wine, savoury, verdant, red fruit namely of plum, then liquorice and finally pomegranate, acids kept while pH riding high. Well thought out, designed and structured for a half life as compared to the Grand Vin that delivers substance and purity in its own, downright way. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Lunch at Haut Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly Haut-Bailly II 2020, Grand Vin De Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan

No salt and pepper from cabernet franc and petit verdot in 2020 but instead a direct messaging from (54) merlot and (46) cabernet sauvignon. A strong, firm, dusty and grippy example from a vintage of near excess but also one that allowed a winemaking team with all the finest implements to fine tune, chisel and tool the inner workings and outer-plating of an estate’s second wine. This would in fact be the cat’s meow for many an estate’s first from a 2020 that delivers far more texture and chalky inner belly than the following 2021. More grip is persistent and longevity looks into the next decade. There is a mineral aspect in this (and to an extent also the 2021) that suggests a calcium carbonate component in the clay soil. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly 2021, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan

As with the II the 2021 is a child of a (these days) later harvest from September 27th to October 11th for a blend of 65 percent cabernet sauvignon, (22) merlot, (10) petit verdot and (3) cabernet franc. Frost and other extreme weather demands meant only one thing: Put in the maximum vineyard work to prepare the vines for quality over quantity in ways other easier seasons may not request. The DNA of a contiguous Haut-Bailly vineyard will come through regardless of which grape leads but a cabernet sauvignon dominant Grand Vin means ulterior aromatics, textures and flavours – not to mention tannins. These are three times over, first in red fruit perfumes, followed by refined liquid chalky textures and finally those super fine tannins. Very mineral – strikingly so, for Pessac-Léognan and frankly all of Bordeaux. There is a stability, persistent consistency and pervasive thoughtfulness to a mindful wine like the 2021. It stands to as one of the region’s best. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly 2020, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan

Like the 2021 this 2020 is led by cabernet sauvignon at 52 percent but more merlot interacts and the seasoning comes from (3 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot. Deeper and darker fruit for sure, more extraction, concentration and also trenchant intention. Grippier tannins, bigger and broader of shoulders and the wine is far, far away from entering its settled, integrated and fleshy zone. For now there is much to go on, certainly to let the imagination run wild and yes, reinvention is the foundation from which this 2020 seeks excellence, approval and distinction. There is great promise here but be patient because structure holds no punches and time heals all rifts. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted September 2023

Matthieu Laborde, Château Lagrange

Haut-Médoc

Château Lagrange Pagus De Lagrange 2020, Haut-Médoc

A warmer vintage, even besting 2018 and a blend of 58 percent cabernet sauvignon with (42) merlot. Different set of aromatics than Saint-Julien for sure, here floral and simple with very little oak aging. Just a month or three in older barrels (they are only used for up to four years at Lagrange and then sold to (owners) Santori in Japan for Whisky). Fresh and fruity with good acid and also temper. Lovely, easy and all the while with the expertise, technology, cleanliness, clarity and perfection seeking ideology of GM and winemaker Mattieu Bordes at Lagrange. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château du Taillan 2018, AC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnelle

Ranked as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionelle in 2018, one of the top 13 Cru Bourgeois which competes against the 1855 Cru Classification. Owned by five sisters and one of the five, that being Armel Cruzes is the winemaker. A terroir that is mainly clay with merlot at the lead (70 percent) plus (20) cabernet sauvignon and (10) cabernet franc. ‘Tis is truly pleasurable Bordeaux, perfumed, liquid chalky and a lovely mix of fresh finesse and mature charm. Just that fine bit of swarthiness and grip at the back end. Give it one year and enjoy for five more, at the base minimum. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Médoc

Château Cos d’Estournel “G” d’Estournel 2019, AC Médoc

G is for Goulée and this is not a second wine but rather a label for a vineyard in the northern side of Médoc close to the Gironde. Fruit comes first while dusty tannins and high acidity range in ways the Grand Vin from Saint-Éstephe does not. Plum peppery on the palate, sumptuous and also a high-toned balsamic sensation gained. The mid-palate could do well with more substance but then again not because the Médoc honesty is enough to put this and us in a playful mood. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Castera 2016, AC Médoc Cru Bourgeois

The oldest property in the northern part of the Médoc, dating back to the 13th century, a big thing to say and possibly even true. Just smells like cabernet sauvignon, marked for the place, knowable and obvious beyond reproach. The said the blend has 65 percent merlot with (5 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot. Not quite half new wood and yet it takes centre stage with the sauvignon. This may be seven years old but it could use a few more – although the hither tannins and thither austerity will outlast what freshness of fruit would like to do the same. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2023

Bordeaux Blanc

Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc Du Château Margaux 2018, Bordeaux Blanc

The current vintage of the Blanc is full of fruit east and west meaning more than the orchard but also that which is rich, exotic and quixotic. Gooseberry and passion fruit come to the imagination and even the sharp acidity of kiwi. Pretty sharp and pointed White Bordeaux, beautifully balanced between fruit and acids, extract and tannin, juicy forwardness and trenchant structure. That extract is truly impressive and the tannin at the tops for seeing this wine age well for another decade at the very least. 1,000 cases are produced. Drink 2023-2033. Last tasted September 2023

Pavillon Blanc is Château Margaux’s “baby,” a wine with a 300 year history with records indicating that red and white grapes were picked separately. Named Pavillon in the 1920s and not a second wine like the Rouge. Essentially varietal sauvignon though there are 100 vines of sémillon in just a few parcels. A continuance like few others and only 10-12,000 bottles are made. A matter of flint be design, of smoulder through elemental chemistry and something riper than what is normally thought of as sauvignon. These were Mr. Pontallier’s wishes, with a mineral finish to create a “vin de garde.” Liveliness, vibrancy and length all guarantee this dream. Tasted September 2022

Château Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Blanc Sec 2021, Bordeaux Blanc

First vintage was 2020 which is admittedly the more premium vintage of the top dry white produced off of Sauternes terroir. The bottom line is how the terroir has proven and is éefitting going back more than 20 years for dry white wines. Of course as a rule the lion’s share of sémillon goes to sweet Sauternes and sauvignon blanc to table wines but the blend here is actually higher in sém. Average vine age is 65 years for a production of 2,000 bottles. Hard to find a more premium white from and old and classic terroir in the Pauillac area. The acidity and salinity are interchangeable and matched dutifully while also impressively to extract and tannin. A very serious and precise wine that stands firm and upright, extends in linear fashion, grips the palate and unwaveringly so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Tronquoy Blanc de Tronqouy 2019, AC Bordeaux Blanc

“Typically” Saint-Estèphe though not legally allowed to be labeled as such and one of the only Blanc parcels in the appellation. Tronquoy is on the top of this “hill” planted to 80 percent sémillon and (20) sauvignon gris. No blanc. Planted 16 years ago (2007) and a unicorn in the middle of their red vineyard. Fermented and then also aged for 12 months in barrel in what could surely be called a Bourgogne style but this kind of wine is just now or recently coming into its own. The acids are higher and more in charge than expected and the wine is not nearly so fat or densely textured. Expressive and captures attention with high extract and also tannin. Some tension and definitely fantasy here, no malolactic having occurred and a white that should age well for five to seven years. Perhaps longer. Only 4,000 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages Blanc De Lynch Bages 2022, Bordeaux Blanc

Bordeaux Blanc from just outside the appellation of Pauillac but labeled as Bordeaux because there is no white appellation in the Médoc. Based on sauvignon blanc with (22) sémillon and (11) muscadelle for a steely, fresh and salty example. A touch waxy, certainly full of yellow citrus out of a fresher climate furthest away from the river. Cooler climate that is, less ripening but the high acidity and energy are what drives the white machine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Henri Lurton Blanc 2022, Bordeaux Blanc

A tiny production of only 3,600 bottles and all allocated to one négociant, from a block close to the cantina, first made in 1999. The appellation could perhaps be considered as Haut-Médoc but only because it comes from a cooler spot on clay between gravelly blocks but it is in fact labeled as simply Bordeaux Blanc. True and rich, aged in big barrels with plenty of bâttonage for sauvignon blanc and (30 percent) sémillon. Quite rich and opulent, creamy with a salty streak and in retention of better acids than might have been expected. Savoury honeyed and a white caramel while elastic and lengthy in ways the BB stylistic does not always accede. No there is not a lot of this wine made anywhere in the appellations and so the rarity increases the perception of excellence but this spicy little number is balanced and makes an impression indeed. It’s always such a pleasure to taste high quality Bordeaux Blanc. This is everything 99 percent of California white wines wish they could be. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Vines at Château Cheval Blanc

Château Cheval Blanc Le Petit Cheval 2021, Bordeaux Blanc

The best kept secret in Bordeaux is the white wine from Château Cheval Blanc, a volumetric and fleshy white that spent 22 months in wood. Nothing sharp or austere, from plots on newer plantations in the vineyard purchased in 2006, once planted to merlot. This may not be the most archetypal Bordeaux Blanc but give it ten more years and surely that will change. Opulent Blanc in fact, inoculated and controlled to the finest science, sometimes stirred, sometmes not but surely fattened and fleshed by the barrels, including some big demi-muid vessels that also micro-oxygenate and make this wine as round and fruit-centric as could be wished. Meanwhile the energy is impressive, parts in shadows slowly emerging and it may just be the most chiaroscuro white wine anywhere, in Italy or France. It’s both anaesthetizing and hypnotizing, able to age, flavoured and textural of a truly fine caramel. Still the suggestion has to be made to drink this as fresh as possible, for best results. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château des Clauzots Bordeaux Blanc 2021, AC Graves

Important to know that Graves is one of the largest appellations in Bordeaux, starting in the north with Pessac-Léognon’s gravels. Thirty kilometres south of Sauternes is where Clauzots is located, a gravelly terroir with limestone, ideal for sauvignon blanc in Saint-Pierre-de-Mons. This is 70 percent SB with (25) sémillon and (5) sauvignon gris. No wood, six to eight months on lees and what is just fresh, no premature oxygenated and sweetly herbal Bordeaux Blanc. Citrus profile and quite a juicy little number. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Maroutine Bordeaux Blanc 2022, AC Bordeaux

Old vines at 40 years of age in the Premières Côte de Bordeaux that have been in the family since the French Revolution. The blocks are in Saint Germain de Graves in the south part of the Entre De Mers appellation. Half and half sauvignon blanc and sémillon, no wood, short aging on lees. Simple, fresh and smart if also juicy stone fruit with a squeeze of citrus. There is a tisane element and also notes botanically tonic. Higher pH, less in terms of salinity and simple. Correct. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted September 2023

Sauternes

Château Pichon Baron “Lions de Sudiuraut” 2022, AC Sauternes

The blend is 54 percent sauvignon blanc and (45) sémillon aged 50 percent in vats and 50 in barrels (20 percent new) for six months. This dry table wine from the Sauternes area is unique and remarkably tannic though the extract is modest by comparison. Light grapefruit, more like pomelo and a bite into a pear while only deep concentration into imagination could conjure blanched nuts or earthiness. Fresh and lively enough while best pursued and consumed as early as possible while the freshness of the fruit is in line with the concentration. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Suduiraut 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes 2013, AC Sauternes

The vines are 35 years old and proximate to Château d’Yquem, mainly sémillon with (10 percent) sauvignon blanc. Dates back to the Count Blaise de Suduiraut who restored and replanted the vineyard after it was destroyed by the Duke d’Epernon in the 1600s. A sandy-clay soil of 92 hectares within the 200 that comprise Suduiraut. Ages for 18 to 24 months in French cask. The spice and also elastic spiciness on the fruit is extraordinary and the volume is equal to the task. Apricot, lemon and orange-red tea flavour a gelid and pliable texture without any drying or leathery aspect. A good botrytis year and this is not only pure but so cool. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Bellefont-Belcier Technical Director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny

Saint-Émilion

Château Bellefont-Belcier Les Tours de Belcier 2019, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The second wine of Château Bellefont-Belcier, best when chosen in the vineyard though further decisions are surely to have been made in the cellars. This vintage predates current technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny and this is also one of Saint-Émilion’s most amenable, ripe and generous wines. The cabernet franc is quite mature and fulsome, obvious in its varietal character and perhaps not climbing the highest peak, yet still acting as a vertical wine. Crunchy and knowable, a really fine example of a second wine from a very specific terroir. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Brisson 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

From 18 hectares spread around the Bellefont-Belcier area/side of Saint-Émilion, 90 percent merlot with (10) cabernet franc. An opaque Right Bank red coming off of gravels, clay and some sand but not the limestone as with some of the area’s terraces and nearby slopes. A lighter soil resulting in a lighter merlot that shows its verdancy and sharp red fruit without hidden imagery or pretension. Savoury in minty cool and piqued bites of red fruit and spice. Not much structure at first though the tannins do sneak up, while really fresh and with good if never wild spirit. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Tour Saint-Christophe 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The estate purchased by Vignobles K’s Peter Kwok who originally came from Vietnam by way of Hong Kong and one of the more impressive clay and limestone terraced vineyards in Saint-Émilion. The property lies over the hill (and as the terroir goes) so very far away from Bellefont-Belcier in that it makes its presence known with so much more strength and vigour. It can’t and will not hide and while winemaker technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny had only come on board for the blending there is no doubt here fingerprints are here, if only because the cuvée allows and encourages the terror to speak with utmost clarity. Et voilà, a huge identity that this who knows will recognize it immediately. Top cabernet franc expression, freshness and so far away from round and fat. Typical, especially aromatically speaking and then quelled surprise on the palate. A wine of Saint-Émilion identity from these terraces and soils. A wine of this kind of richness and tension is important but wait for Emmanuellle to take it further. She undoubtedly will. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Bellefont-Belcier 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Impressive capture of 2020 with more than ample fruit and also acidity because the wood is restrained in a well-managed style. This is cabernet franc from Saint-Émilion in a nutshell, a bubble of terroir where clay, sand and gravels conspire to create a pretty serious if elegant example. A wine of exhalation because it breathers easy no matter the warmth and alcohol potential of the vintage. Comes across at 14.5 percent so for those who look for richness and more full-bodied Right bank Bordeaux then this is a perfect place to realize those dreams. Really well made with Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny’s imprint in the blending only but that will change when the 2022 comes around. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Cap d’Or 2019, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of the Gironde. The “golden cape,” of south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The same properties of Cap d’Or and also St. George estates were purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. A different vintage to ’18 in that while ripe and substantial this does not express as much flesh and up front fruit. Feels tighter and less gregarious, not yet ready to express what there will surely highlight when time allows for that to happen. Wait a year or more. The blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Dinner at La Confession

Château Cap d’Or 2018, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of Gironde. The “golden cape,” of south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The estate was purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. Much richer than you think, clay and mineral chalky with thanks to limestone and from a warm vintage though time has been kind and the wine is really opening well. Fruit is tops and standing on the tips with tension beginning to fall away. Generally speaking the blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Cap Saint George 2019, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of Gironde. The “cape,” of St. George, without the “S” to remind of the British connection. From a south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The St. George estate was purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. Like the Cap d’Or the general blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Deeper, richer and more structured wine than the Cap d’Or, tannins grippier and everything tighter, chalkier, more fine-grained and further away from opening. Drying quite a bit at the finish. Wait two years at the very least. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château La Confession Famille Joseph Janoueix Propriétaire 2019, AC Saint-Émilion

Made from two thirds merlot and one third cabernet franc from only five hectares very close to Pomerol. The brand was created in 2001 and then Jean-Philippe Janoueix’s first vintage was 2007. A dynamic brand that has been developed by JPJ and here in 2019 the terroir comes to full and substantial fruition. A true blue vintage for these vineyards and this appellation on a collision course that culminates here with a very special mix of the two right bank grapes. Such a mouthful of fruit freshness, sharp and pointed acidity that culminates in major tannin adding up to seriously proper tension. This fills, expands and creates what can only be described as an explosion upon the palate. Magnanimous wine that will soon begin to express itself under total control. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Cheval Blanc Premier Cru Grand Classé A 2011, AC Saint-Émilion

Classic, meaning one that allows the vintage to binate and express itself. Dry start, slightly warmer than average, later season with botrytis pressure and as a total result a season of variability and spontaneity. Selection was key, to eliminate rot and while quantity was down, quality high when good choices were made. Far from the most opulent Cheval Blanc, cool savour and florals that remind of iris or violet but nothing in the face or exceptionally out of place, or character. Concentration yes but no density, nor are there any stops, fits or starts. Youthful and aromatic though there is some movement in the flavours. A plum pudding developing, again the savour that reminds of mint family herbals but also an unknown umami, perhaps even truffle. Harmonious wine, softening and nurturing, surely a result of a soft, powdery soil akin to tufo, overall a wine that is the epitome of what is often referred to as “lovely.” Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Pavie-Macquin

Château Larcis Ducasse Famille Gratiot-Araume 2018, AC Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

A joint between Nicolas Thienpont and this their 17th vintage for a classic Saint-Émilion on the hill shared by Pavie of mixed clay layers with hard calcaire in a very specific cool soil for merlot and 14-16 percent cabernet franc. Reeks of white mineral stone and perhaps not as unctuous and luxe as the Pavie (and Macquin) wines but the line extends deep into a vanishing point for true mineral perspective. Less than 10 hectares provide ripe fruit that cuts through the rocky quality with streaks of blues and purples. In a very good place at this near five year mark and showing no signs of slowing down. Very classy and well put together. No pretension, just real and understated. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Vines at Pavie Macquin

Château Pavie-MacQuin Famille Corre-Macquin Propriètaire 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé

The first vintage made by Nicolas Thienpont was 1995 for a Saint-Émilion that received classification in 2006. Grafted plants helped keep material in the vineyard after Phylloxera and today the three clays of white, red and brown plus two types of limestone (hard and “tender”) all layer throughout the blocks for this very juicy and mineral Right Bank wine. The dominant merlot is met with cabernet franc for a few reasons, namely aromatic complexity but also palate expansion and textural elaboration. Opens up and variegates with thanks to the grape and perhaps the future might see more splashes to fulfill the wants and needs of its legion of fans. Big wine, big vintage and big results, all within balance. A truly likeable wine that will never disappoint. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted September 2023

Aymeric de Gironde, Chief Executive Officer Château Troplong-Mondot

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2020, AC Saint-Émilion

It might be thought that following up 2019 would be a most difficult, if not impossible task but shed the temptation to make comparisons because all Troplong Mondot wines of the last six years need be assessed and enjoyed each on their own merit. A truly grounded and intense 2020, high caste, vibrant and a dancer, not light but yes graceful on its feet. The saltiness on this 2020 from the combination of limestone and (35 percent hard clay rock in the vineyards) translates to fine tannin and a finish that is pure chalk. Perhaps not to live as long as 2019 with as much pure joy through the decades but that finish will never be anything but a true chalky display, of sensation and emotion. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, AC Saint-Émilion

First vintage where the malolactic fermentation was done 100 percent in tank before being racked to barrel. Some simultaneous spontaneity overlapping with alcoholic fermentation but more often than that there will be control to have them happen one after the other. The fact that 35 percent of the vineyards at the top of the hill are filled with the hardest clay anywhere in Bordeaux, coupled with limestone all over creates the most mineral quotient around. This transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019 but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. Whether you are familiar with, an expert on or just arriving at a Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classé for the first time – it just doesn’t matter. This 2019 will blow your mind. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot Mondot de Troplong Mondot 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The only wine made as a varietal one, that being merlot to celebrate the chalkiness of the limestone soil. No new wood yet 60 percent used barrel and the rest remains in stainless steel tank. This ’18 is the second vintage of this iteration, before being a true second wine of all the fruit that did not make it into the top wine. Just smells calcareous and the palate delivers this minty cool sensation with a calcari saltiness, silken texture (including the tannins) and absolute class. So drinkable and kept back until it’s ready to drink so therefore the current vintage on release is 2020. The fact that it’s 14.5 percent alcohol is not a factor because pH is perfectly low, in and around 3.42. Precise, clean and no guesswork here. Clarity for merlot incarnate. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot 2017, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Sounds like a broken record yet here we are again with a terrific example of 2017 Bordeaux, a vintage maligned early if just because of the scare by an April frost. In fact the syncopation between fruit and acidity equals quality in an effortless symbiosis and 2017 shows the experiential joy Bordeaux has discovered in modern times. This Toplong-Mondot is just that as it enters the sweet zone right here and now at the six year junction. The tannins are nearly resolved or at least shed of any austerity while the acids are simply plugged in, rock and roll, like the Who in 1971, bursting with energy. Sip enough 2017 in 2023 and 2024 and you too won’t be fooled again. “A change, it had to come. We knew it all along. We were liberated from the fold, that’s all.” Freshness wins in the end. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot 1998, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

A vintage when (at that time) consulting oenologist Michel Rolland was for some reason or another unavailable and the team picked (cough, cough) early, or at least earlier than would have been dictated. And so…the rest is history and freshness. Yes, a good to great vintage has now been the secret out of the bag for at least a decade and this ’98 is drinking beautifully in 2023. A Premier Grand Cru Classé of charm, nurturing to the palate, attentive, regal and distinctive. The umami of the vineyard’s hard clay rocks is spoken through merlot with its two cabernet counterparts. That stony argille is bled into the blood of this very particular hill of Saint-Émilion by way of perfectly ripe fruit picked just when it needed to be so that it could still be enjoyed today. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Pailhas Vieilles Vignes 2018, AC Saint-Émilion

Family estate in the village of Saint Hippolyte and essentially a Villages wine from a limestone and small gravels terroir. Mix of 80 percent merlot with (20) cabernet franc, hot vintage and seriously fruit expressive. Half and half concrete plus barrel aging for a year, perfect gateway drug into the Grand Vin possibility and still very youthful for 2018. Punches above its weight in that and other regards, especially the fineness of tannin. Should age well for six to eight years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Église d’Armens 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Owned by Domaines Comte de Malet Roquefort and also produced by the same technical team as Château La Gaffèliere. Big and heavy extraction and so the tannins but also the malic acidity is a bit pushed. Not much joy here it would seem. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Émilion

Lussac-Saint-Émilion

Château Haut La Grenière 2020, AC Lussac-Saint-Émilion

Vines getting into their golden age (at 35 years), taking merlot (75 percent), (20) cabernet franc and (5) cabernet sauvignon into experienced and well documented territory. Warm vintage with a truly rich aromatic profile, immediately seductive and surely enticing. Silky smooth and with well integrated if generously issued and incorporated concrete plus stainless stainless aging. Tons of fruit, fresh and that charcuterie feel. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Pomerol

Château Clinet 2021, AC Pomerol

Just bottled in July and this is the first opening of a finished bottle. Nothing extreme about the weather conditions with lower alcohol than recent vintages, at 13 percent which is just unheard of in these days. Less merlot and the cabernet sauvignon commits at 25 percent, higher ever in modern times at Clinet. Youthful is the understatement and this ’21 needs minutes of swirling and even some agitation to release its aromatic grace. Man this is tightly wound and just as the berries tasted on the sorting table just now at the ’23 harvest revealed there is a salty-mineral quotient in the wine. Precise and focused as much as any Pomerol, chilled and of a sleek design, like an Italian race car or charcuterie slicer. Spices are so integrated, graphite is in and if there are verdant notes they are sweetly savoury and the finish never wavers from the direct line taken at the moment the lights tuned from red to green. “We have always wanted to make a wine showing the specificity of the location.” The words of Clinet’s and the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux’s Ronan Laborde. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2019, AC Pomerol

The 2019 is poured last in a mini flight with 2017 and 2021 because it is the highest in alcohol, written at 14.5 percent (though is actually 14.65 to be exact). That’s the vintage and the colour straight away tells the story of concentration while the cabernet sauvignon component is 20 percent. Approximately 80 percent new wood but this fruit is pristine and fulsome so receiving that much wood was far from an issue. More variegation but every layer is deeper and richer than the last. If 2021 builds and builds then 2019 is compact, not dense but composed of many films upon films and there is this pressed leathery fruit aspect indicated by the aromatic wealth. You can actually smell berries of several genus and the cabernet sauvignon brings the Cassis. Hard to say whether this is expressive of more finesse and precision than the 2021 but what it surely delivers is extreme philanthropy. People will swoon and die for this kind of luxe Pomerol and the tannins are dutiful, carrying the weight and extending the life of 2019 for what will be many years to come. Drink 2024-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2017, AC Pomerol

Similar vintage to 2021 though higher in alcohol and while there were Spring frosts around there were none here in this part of Pomerol. Enough water, never too much heat and harvest in the third week of September. The blend is 92 percent merlot with (8) cabernet sauvignon and this fruit is just so perfectly and naturally sweet. Of corse four settling years makes a huge difference and the new oak is less than 2021 (and other recent years), here at 70 percent. The juiciness is off the charts, the acidity so bloody fine, as are the tannins, for Clinet just as tight and embracing in equal terms. So obviously picked at exactly the correct maturity. This ’17 builds and builds, just now approaching its first stages of maturity but the finish indicates some still unresolved moments. About two years away it would seem. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2016, AC Pomerol

Exceptional vintage for both quality and quantity, led as always by merlot but Clinet is one of the more cabernet sauvignon supportive houses on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. To define the estate style a 20 percent (more of less) mix helps to deliver the terroir. Good acidity persistence for a ’16 just now looking to get things moving forward and so the window is opening to let some air in and fill the room with freshness. That fresh character is über persistent, urged on by the inventiveness of the vintage acids to establish a fine Clinet, super-focused and more than generous. Drink 2023-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2005, AC Pomerol

Seems like a truly mature Clinet at first but within minutes there is a re-grouping of the aromatics and the wine’s finer senses for a renewed freshness coming from an aromatic burst. Still you can’t miss the Pomerol umami in truffled and cèpe moments as sweet as they are pungently earthy. Holding very well, a swath of chocolate ganache and the operative word is holding because the wine as reached its apex. Calm, gentle, graceful and clearly a style from another time while distinctly proper in retrospective view. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Croix St. Georges Famille Joseph Janoueix Propriétaire 2019, AC Pomerol

A tiny production of 1,500 bottles from winemaker and proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix is from Pomerol surrounded by neighbours that include Le Pin. An about face example as compared to La Confession that may lie within the auspices of St.-Émilion but for all intents and purposes could also be thought upon as Pomerol. Rich and opulent but so under control and in balance, not to mention high, haughty and contemplative level elegance. Such a baby and taking every advantage of the vintage which must be looked at as exceptional. The finesse and precision here is more than obvious, in fact it’s downright laser focused. Mon dieu this works the glass, palate and senses with outright trenchant ability, acumen and ultimately elastic tension. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Lafleur Des Rouzes 2020, AC Pomerol

Classic Pomerol blend at 80 percent merlot with (20) cabernet franc, 16 months in 70 percent, three levels of mixed wood. Dark fruit, quite dark actually, with wood a factor, a big factor. A cool, savoury, brushy aromatic profile and minty, certainly a cause of a specific terroir. This is north Pomerol on the border with Lalande de Pomerol, not far from Clinet. Plenty of interest to be sure. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Petit-Village Le Petit 2020, AC Pomerol

Le Petit is the second wine of Château Petit-Village, an estate with ties to the knights and Frères Hospitaliers of Saint-John of Jerusalem, first to cultivate vines in Pomerol. Merlot at 75 percent with (18) cabernet franc and (7) cabernet sauvignon coming from deeper gravels with sand, clay and what’s called crosse de fer (iron pan). A small property that was once owned by Guillaume Clarke and family of Médocaine on the plateau of Pomerol in a triangle angled by Château Le Pin, Château Pétrus and Château Le Conseillante. Lost in the shadows of these famous estates but deserving of being raised up. A varietal wine of 100 percent merlot, acids piquing and carrying the wine forward to a focused finish. Fresh, full of fun, creativity and while the wood is very much in charge there is an Amaro-herbal quality that truly drives the wine – with that acidity in full flash and fantasy. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023.

Lalande-de-Pomerol

Château Ame De Viaud – Cuvée des Capucins 2020, AC Lalande-de-Pomerol

A ferric quality with pyrazine and charred/roasted nightshade flavours. Nothing truly exemplary for Pomerol and satellites and something overly mature about the whole affair. Tasted September 2023

Tearrces at Château Bellefont-Belcier

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Château Le Rey Les Rocheuses Parcelles no. 5 et 6 2020, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

From Castillon with an area of limestone and then another with deep clay. Two wines are produced, one from each terroir and this is the limestone, housed in a Bourgogne-shaped bottle. Sees 12 months in (10 percent new) oak, made with 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc. Les Rocheuses, a “rocky area” which happens to be limestone. A more serious wine as compared to its clay terroir-raised Les Argilleuses which is looked at for fruit, fun and early consumption. Les Rocheuses is rich and also startling, lightning of reflexes and so bloody tart. Blood orange, high acidity, peppery going down and impressively long. Tannins yes but they are not too forceful. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Le Rey Les Argilleuses 2022, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Just bottled in March which was just a short elévage away from harvest because the purpose is to share a bottle with friends. The clay-based terroir delivers this very fruity but also peppery and almost chalky-spicy Bordeaux. This is easy and so very licensee friendly that with a chill will not hide the liveliness and the berries are all over the palate. Would you know it’s Bordeaux, perhaps not but does it really matter? Not for a moment. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Domaines Janoueix

Château De Monbadon, Indie de Monbadon 2021, AC Castillon-Côte de Bordeaux

Monbadon refers to a fortress in the time of the Northmen, Normandy vikings that protected Paris from other northern Vikings. The fortress was built by the British who were born in France and spoke French, specifically the grandson of William the Conqueror. Indie is the knight that built the fortress. There were 25 hectares and Jean-Philippe Janoueix kept but 10, here for a second wine that is 55 percent cabernet franc (locally referred to as bouchet) with 45 merlot. Elévage in amphora, concrete and 500L cask. Organic property and a truly aromatic style with some piques and valleys, from terroir with both clay and limestone. A well balanced mix of the two if leaning chalky and the 25 year-old vines are in their prime. Loving the green and the freshness of red fruit. With the Indie there is every reason to believe that this Monbadon is something you can put a little bit of a chill upon to make it drink with the most elegance and also joy. Tannin but nothing so demanding. Don’t forget, “where there’s smoke there’s Indie.” Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023\

Jean-Phillipe Janoueix

Château De Monbadon 2021, AC Castillon-Côte de Bordeaux

A fresh vintage with great acid, tension and freshness for the cabernet franc and merlot blend from Jean-Philippe Janoueix’s newly acquired and minted fortress and vineyards of Monbadon. Longer elévage in barriques (more of it new as well) and also amphora. Decisions are made in the cellar as to what goes to Indie and also to this to seek more grip and structure. No great departure from the Indie because the terroir (clay and plenty of limestone) plus agriculture (organic and a search for quality) are the same. Further exaggeration of the pyrazine, verdancy, red fruit and increased tension in this more important or shall we say serious of the two wines. Chill this as well though wait two years before beginning to drink the bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Rochers de Joanin 2019, AC Castillon Côtes-de-Bordeaux

Now nearby to Saint-Émilion with 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc though just 20 percent barrel and quite a tannic Bordeaux from a rich and generous vintage. Fine grained tannin that makes the fruit seem the same and so there is some austerity in the second half of the wine. Just a touch drying for the vintage, still needing some time. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2023

Côtes de Bordeaux

Château Puygeraud Héritiers Famille Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Cyrille’s grandfather Nicolas on his father’s side (whose father was George Thienpont) is now in charge of this top estate located in Francs Côtes de Bordeaux on the outskirts of Saint-Émilion. The family name is from Belgium, meaning “10 pounds.” Mainly merlot with 10-15 percent cabernet franc. A soft and juicy satellite Bordeaux with full flavours and at this point, in spite of the warm vintage, fully resolving into softening tannins. A lovely drop in all respects. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Prade Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

A family estate belonging to Cyrille’s father Nicolas Thienpont in Sainy-Cibard on a limestone plateau beneath the clays, purchased in 2000. Like all the family’s wines it is merlot that anchors with approximately 15 percent cabernet franc to develop aromas, expand flavours and chill the tannin. Only 3,000 cases are made for a Francs Côtes de Bordeaux with a distinct calcareous chalkiness while also easy going in its just now beginning to mature style. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Alcée Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

From three hectares acquired by Nicolas Thienpont in the Côtes de Castillon near the Monbadon Castle. Another limestone plateau with clays on the hillsides, now 6.5 hectares and in this wine a matter of varietal merlot. Pure mineral merlot and verdant, an elemental savour that takes its character from white rock more than red clay but the latter does resolve through the stone to bring enough juiciness. Base and necessary though it should be noted that this is a satellite appellation Bordeaux for lovers of the region as a whole. More freshness than either of the Francs Côtes de Bordeaux estate wines and likely to age a little bit longer. Might even wait a year to open the first bottles. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Puygeraud Bordeaux Blanc Héritiers Famille Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

From an appellation where both sweet and dry whites can be made, here in a sauvignon blanc with (10 percent) sémillon. Light, linear, flinty and with true barrel spirit yet not at all fleshy and round. More to the Bordeaux Blanc point then most with a gooseberry and grapefruit mix, though no red tart citrus component. A bit tannic and truly dry. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Charmes-Godard Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Fermented and aged in large (500L) barrels, 15 percent new year by year. A mix of 63 percent sémillon with (21) sauvignon blanc and (6) sauvignon gris. More serious, fleshy, fat and round as compared to the Puygeraud Bordeaux Blanc with orchard fruit struck by flint and a finish of savoury white caramel. Chewy white this time around and even more tannic, not to mention higher in extract as well. The sémillon takes centre stage and makes its presence well known. Rich, juicy and substantial. This well age well – it has come to this point from 2018 without stress or blemish so four more is more than a reasonable possibility. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Côtes-de-Bourg

Château Relais de la Poste 2020, AC Côtes-de-Bourg

Post as in an old post office on the Right Bank where limestones mix with gravels for merlot with (10 percent each) cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Stony and gravelly smells with well ripened fruit that stands up to be counted. Classic Right Bank beauty with dark red-black fruit and a fine chalkiness. Moment of pancetta. Acids do their yeoman work. Really good wine from a solid terroir. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Bordeaux

Château La Maroutine 2019, AC Bordeaux

Family estate to 1789 in Saint Germain de Graves, specifically Côtes de Cadillac though not labeled as such. Based on merlot with (20) percent cabernet sauvignon, now wood and while fruit rises high it does so with some horsey character. The funk is not terroir but winemaking and in this bottle it is problematic. High in Brettanomyces and so both texture and tannin harden and tighten. Tasted September 2023

Tasted in Toronto back in 2022

With Ivanhoe Johnston of Nathaniel Johnston Négociants

Duluc De Branaire Ducru 2016, 4e Cru, AC Saint-Julien, 2nd wine of Château Branaire-Ducru

Not as much range as Château Branaire-Ducru, nor the full density of top Saint-Julien yet steady in terms of style. Perfectly mid-weight and from a top vintage in terms of classicism and balance. “What Bordeaux should aim for,” explains Ivanhoe Johnston. Showing some truffled maturity and Johnston adds that “a second wine like this should be available and ready to serve.” It does just that by gifting pleasure and soliciting opinion – one that agrees with the goal, cause and effect. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted July 2022

Château Lacoste Borie 2016, AC Pauillac, 2nd wine of Château Grand Puy Lacoste

The second wine of Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, yet another matter connected a top quality vintage in the mid-term of its activities. Fineness and balance from a deuxième well travelled and quite quick to arrive at subtle truffled secondary character. Also notable for its earth-driven set of circumstances, aromatics well concentrated and expressive of moderate alcohol (at 13.5 percent). The nose is stronger than the palate in that regard and the wine equalizes as a factor of the two. The palate holds that bend but not break, stretched elastic kind of feeling, with chalkier tannin as compared to say a Duluc by Branaire-Ducru. Sturdier structure here for longer aging juxtaposed against a reality so very upfront to characterize the overall fairness of this wine. The 75 percent cabernet sauvignon has much to do with this, but no doubt also a factor of Pauillac being the more structured appellation. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted July 2022

Château D’Aiguilhe 2012, AC Côtes De Bordeaux Castillon

A systematic vineyard blend made up of 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc, showing well with a push-pull, fruit-acid relationship. Unique vintage with this sort of freewheeling acidity mixed with present maturity stemming from high cumulate concentration. A metered matter of truffled infusion, really dark fruit, tar, iodine and fruit hematoma. Also fragrance, a juicy perfume and truly all that could be wished for out of a ten year-old Côtes De Bordeaux Castillon. The mid-palate is now just a bit stretched, to no great surprise, further reflected in the quick to resolve finish. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted July 2022

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2016, AC Pessac Léognan

A massively concentrated, palate expanding and expressive Pessac-Léognan with one foot firmly planted in the Left Bank and the other pointed towards the Right. This 2016 is the first of its own kind, initializing the “infusion’ method, gently pressed, making use of a consistently wet and submerged cap. Perhaps a nod to Piemonte but not an exact iteration of “cappello sommerso” fermentation style. Built upon 40 percent each cabernet franc and merlot with (20) cabernet sauvignon, all parts in synch if not quite ready to open up. Acids and tannins are firm and tight, both equipped to handle the qualitative level of 2016 fruit. All are in view and just another one or two years will see to the first great moments. Compare Les Carmes to Haut-Brion at three or four times the price to see that clarity and equality are real. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted July 2022

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2018, AC Saint-Émilion

The first vintage post Michel Rolland era, moving away from über ripeness and into greater freshness. So, now quite a new, updated and contemporary expression of the unique Saint-Émilion terroir. Also what négociant Ivanhoe Johnston refers to as “a new human interpretation,” with a new consultant (Thomas Duclot) on board. Hotter vintage, especially compared to 2015 yet most certainly a fresher wine. Terrific perfume, even if it’s still in a state of demure so use imagination to unlock doors of both perception and possibilities. The emotion is more than aromatics because purity and finesse are special. A renewed style and perigee beginning but we get a pretty good sense of what this is all about. By the time 2019 rolls around our minds and palates will surely be blown. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted July 2022.

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2015, AC Saint-Émilion

The 2015 is a wine that provides a high amount of alcohol (at 15.5 percent) from a warm, though not sweltering vintage. The Troplong-Mondot ace in the hole are its special soils, the Bordeaux equivalent of Silex if you will, high in calcium carbonate and so this is Saint-Émilion with a greater percentage of cabernet sauvignon. The hill ripens later than many parts of the Right Bank appellation which means even in hot seasons the hang time extends and therefore phenolics are well developed. A dense, concentrated and flavour-packed 2015 of an intensity knowable and impressive as this era of Troplong-Mondot. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted July 2022

With Thomas Burke, Commercial Relations Manager, Château Margaux

Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge 2009, AC Margaux, 2nd Wine Of Château Margaux

A rue savoury character now, fennel or sage, but a Pavillon Rouge that has a-romanticized of a slow Bordelais confit. A double decant and the wine is aided by a further 30 minutes in the glass. Keep in mind that a few decades ago this fruit would have been used for the Grand Vin but prices of land and production were not what they are today. Quality runs high to justify changes and decisions made 13 years prior. Drink 2022-2034. Last tasted September 2022

Persists as a wine of intellectual perfume and expressionist tannin. While the bouquet is quick to open you can’t help but wonder how much more it will bloom when the integration touches the apex and works in perfect union with the velvet elegance of that plush tannin. The wine never forgets to remind you of the earth from whence it came and the natural funk that always pervades its air. The length is unwavering and linear to a vanishing point perspective. Tasted March 2018

From a wine that “used to be a tool,” comments Paul Pontallier to a “second wine” out of an incredible vintage “at least as good, or better than the four previous vintages of the first wine.” Them are fighting words and no sooner are they more truthfully spoken then over a swirling glass of the wine that has improved the most at Château Margaux. The Pavillon Rouge ’09 is indeed the best in modern times, in part due to immaculate selection and because it makes up just one third of the total red grape production at Margaux. In the 1980’s it was the opposite but with a third wine now pushed to the European and Japanese restaurant market beginning in this vintage, Pavillon is now a grand brand, in a connected and assiduous way as never before. There are 100 lesser ’09 Bordeaux that fail to assimilate the wood and the crush of density, not to mention the tannin and Expressionist brushstroke. Pavillon manages a suppression of the admiral elements, including the scientific ones. The fruit is deeper, riper, with more brooding levels of pectin and anthocyanin. An earthy funk makes a late appearance on a finish of extended length to indicate where this Pavillon will range, forward 25-30 years and back to a 1989 type of history. Tasted April 2014

Château Margaux, Grand Vin Du Château Margaux 2004, AC Margaux

Tasting a Pavillon Rouge five years this ’04’s junior is an invitation to prepare the palate for the Grand Vin and one nose into this Margaux and you know the table is set up for near perfection. The accents, accoutrements and accessories are aromatically heightened yet this 2004 is anything but a showy vintage. Still exists and persist as a promising and that is not something usually said about an 18 year-old wine. It’s on the ideal trajectory and despite some hints at secondary character the freshness leads the experience. Damp earth, clay-crusted truffle and crisp morning forest air are all part of the journey. Sweetness of fruit, acids hyper real and just the way they need to be, wood tannins just about having melted away. In a really fine place right now. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted October 2022

Château Margaux, Grand Vin Du Château Margaux 1989, AC Margaux

In retrospect a glass of 1989 Château Margaux is what the evolution of this estate’s wines just are. The palate weight and rigid texture are still recessing up which says that primary fruit has not left the bottle. It’s astounding and the vibrations continue, alerting the senses to the energy of this 1989’s acids. Then there is the alignment with the tannins, almost ideal, or at least as close as it gets. In fact it would be hard to imagine a better combination of invigoration and balance. Innervision churning meets extraversion refinement. Advanced and precocious while the omnipresence of measurable phenolics and elements of concentration solicit great emotion. A wine that is perfect in in finest moments. Drink 2022-2044. Last tasted October 2022

You never want to say that a vintage was perfect but in this case, the vintage was perfect. It seems impossible but the tannins are both present and even a bit drying so at least for this bottle there will be so much residual fruit at the end of the tunnel. Only those tannins seem altered from four years ago because the fruit and the flowers are exactly the same. What rises above, around and in darts between is the fineness and intensity of implosive acidity. Structure in this 1989 is forged by bars of steel as reinforced spikes in the concrete. It may never truly break down. Tasted March 2018

The 1989 Château Margaux wears the response to a mondo Bordeaux axiom on its sleeve. Are First Growth wines made for people who want darts of instant pleasure?” Twenty years earlier and now like the 2009, here is a quintessential and exemplary vintage, from day one of bud break to the last day of harvest. Its appraisal as anything but incredible is to assassinate it as if it were the Franz Ferdinand of Bordeaux. The examination 25 years later sees a mellow funk meet a peerless and sublime perfume. A wine cast in utmost density, complexity and length. It noses strength, warmth verging on heat but only for a fleeting moment, to gain attention. The iconic wine has reached the first major peak, up a ways from base camp. In this second phase of young adulthood it looks with conceit to the top of the mountain, seeing 25 to 50 more years on the climb. Mr. Pontallier regrets he won’t be around to taste this wine at full maturity. Moi aussi. The fruit lingers in its full, original state, from the moment it passes lips and for minutes onward. Violets trump roses. Château Margaux 1989 is from a vintage that offers the blessing of ethereal balance. Hear her sing, “Ich heisse Superfantastisch!” Tasted April 2014

Domaines Clarence Dillon in Toronto November 2022

With Guillaume Alexandre Marx , Commercial Manager and Jean Philippe Delmas, GM of Château Haut Brion

Château Quintus 2012, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Quintus, as in “fifthly,” denoting that which has to do with fives. Going back to 2012 this would be the second vintage of the now cabernet franc dominated right banker with a red currant profile for a wine that is Haut-Brion’s fifth child. Knows where it stands in the pecking order behind top growths HB and La Mission Haut-Brion under the auspices of Domaines Clarence Dillon and out of the merger between the former Château Tertre-Daugay and Château L’ArRosée. It was actually merlot based back in 2012 (at 80 percent) and it shows in the savoury, minty cool verdancy that still today directs its behaviour. Also suave and of a vague sweetness for a wine that today seems like it was always wise beyond its years. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted November 2022

Château Quintus Le Dragon De Quintus 2012, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

As much a “Villages” expression as it is a second wine from a property sectioned and delegating fruit purposefully this way. Takes its name from the dragon statue that towers above the terroir of Saint-Émilion, perched high upon the promontory where the estate is located. A more stretched and elastic iteration of merlot and Quintus from that era with freshness just about as impressive as the more prominent sibling is showing at this stage. A transformative viewing in retrospect that speaks to great work put in early in this estate’s tenure. Obviously a pursuit of Saint-Émilion quality and not something most people might be aware of. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted November 2022

Château La Mission Haut-Brion Grand Cru Classé De Graves 2012, AC Pessac Léognan

All five Bordeaux grapes interact and intertwine for what was clearly set up in the most generous of 2012 ways from that high (15 percent) alcohol vintage. Now fully settled into its skin, flesh and big bones for a Bordeaux truly representative of the musculature and power that Pessac-Léognan will show, compounded in a bigger vintage. In a great plcae at the 10-year mark in fact it probably won’t ever get better than this. There is a slight mustiness on the palate so just that hint of fault but seeing past it is not a challenge with so much wine on offer. Darkest of fruit, day for night, in violet light and tragically hip. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted November 2022

La Chapelle De La Mission Haut Brion Grand Cru Classée 2012, AC Pessac-Léognan

A bit stoic and not quite as open-knit or expressive as the 2012 La Mission. Chewier, with grainier tannin after texture also variegated as perceived in mouthfeel though the strength and also power of the warm vintage is duly noted. A child of that time with elevated alcohol and bigger bones than most, still compact and sturdy. Just opening slightly yet still concerning itself with integration practices because the wood is in charge, of chocolate mainly and those tannins still bear their teeth. Eventually the suave personality emerges, with the sourness of tamarind and currants that (20-ish percent) of merlot and splashes of cabernet franc provide to the sweet Cassis of cabernet sauvignon. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2022

Château Haut Brion Premier Grand Cru Classé 2012, AC Pessac-Léognan

Highly perfumed vintage, much more so than La Mission or La Chapelle de la Mission, namely because of highly impressive stature borne from top drop concentration. An extraordinary spice masala of aromas and each nose brings a return to violets and roses. Impeccable balance between fruit and structure, first and foremost because of terroir but also the mastery of pre-aging assemblage. The spices have integrated and aged well, now revealing new aromas, secondary ones but in a gastronomical, as opposed to a dried way. The wine has evolved, morphed into something mature but not what would be considered evolved. An Haut-Brion that will not really be looked at in terms of secondary character until it’s 20th birthday, especially because some austerity persists in the tannins, causing some shy or reticent character. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted November 2022

Clarence Dillon Clarendelle Red 2012, AC Bordeaux

Impressively perfumed – not Haut-Brion aromatic intensity but in the arena for sure. Still some fresh red fruit after 10 years and the key to unlock the door is on the table. Like all the 2012s in the Clarence Dillon portfolio there is power and grip and also a spice cupboard filled to the brim. More acceleration here to be sure and the wood has begin to separate even while it has dissipated. Som time in glass really speeds up the secondary stance, making for curiosities but also causing age to creep in. Soy and mint, still some elegance, led by merlot and a fine expression for the variety. Drink up. Tasted November 2022

Good to go!

godello

Château Montrose

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WineAlign

A steamy August in Washington

Jan12

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

In August of 2023 a small group of intrepid Canadians traipsed through the wilds of Washington’s wine country in search of the new but found so much more. A fine fettle of wine producers and estates fill up the eastern landscape, fully encapsulating the industry with the experienced, quaint, artful, zealous, time-tested, animated and cerebral. The trip was a hunt in persistence, finding it all, revelling in its mottled and striped splendour, sitting back to admire the people and the scenery. Smoke taint was on everyone’s mind but clear skies dominated imagination. The journey was winding, snaking contiguously like the Columbia, Yakima and Walla-Walla Rivers, working an itinerary through the Tri-Cities, Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla, Woodinville and finally to finish in Seattle. The weather ranged from 90 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit (32-46 Celsius for the rest of the metric world), fires burned far off in the distances near Spokane and widespread in British Columbia. The air was thick as pea soup though there was no fog and spirits remained high. Unwavering you might say, always ready for road-tripping, to reach further, for action and of course tasting.

The group convened in Richland, one of three city-siblings conjoined at the aggregate network of urban communities that include Pasco and Kennewick. On day one we took in the Yakima Valley and Red Mountain AVAs with J. Bookwalter Winery, Palencia Winery, Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery, Col Solare and Hedges. Day two down to the Walla Walla Valley AVA with SMAK Wines, Gramercy Cellars, Valdemar Estates, L’Ecole N° 41 and Woodward Canyon Winery. Morning of day three still about town in Walla Walla, at Seven Hills Winery, House of Smith and Vital Wines. Further south to The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater with Rotie Cellars and in the haze of the evening an oasis harvest party at Spring Valley Vineyard. Day four and onwards to the Yakima Valley AVA with Tirriddis, Sonder Wines, JB Neufeld and 14 Hands Winery. Day five more of the Yakima Valley AVA and then on to Woodinville, first with a blending experience and tasting at Chateau Ste Michelle, culminating at Airfield Estates. A long finale of a drive over the Cascade Mountains, a change in scenery and more profoundly weather ,with clear blue skies and sunshine in Seattle.

Lunar landscape in the Walla Walla Valley, akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.”

Grape cultivation in hostile climates

Cultivating wines in much of Washington is not a native exercise. Most of the southern part of the state is desert and nothing comes easy. There are many vistas akin akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.” This reminder comes by way of Christophe Hedges. “To plant a vineyard we just have to thin out a few sage bushes. Vine-growing is not a natural practice.” Yet Hedges also reminds that practicing biodynamics is not commonplace, but it is natural and so the Vineyard Manager reigns have fallen to 26 year-old Kayla Braich. Christophe insists she is the most knowledgable biodynamic expert in the Columbia Valley. “Hiring an old white guy to do biodynamics would not have worked.” At Hedges, Sarah Hedges Goedhart tells how Portuguese varieties are a focus, especially touriga nacional (but also tinta cáo and sezão) for their heat and drought resistant, terroir-driven qualities. They are late flowering and developing but also deal with the stress of extreme climate events better than the Bordeaux varieties. “Red Mountain is a small-knit community,” says Christophe. “We hope the way we are farming will be the direction of the future.”

Justin Neufeld talking Yakima, Rattlesname Hills and Red Mountain

“We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.” — CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda, 5th Generation at Valdemar Estates

Justin Neufeld finds the cabernet sauvignon from Red Mountain more granular and austere. Vibrant yet one-dimensional as compared to the (relatively) cooler climate sites of the Yakima Valley. There are different wind patterns here and the tannic profile becomes softer, chalkier and ultimately more elegant, with a true red fruit personality. Yakima lends to more “blended” cabernets, in particular as it pertains to structure, also more aromatic complexity and classic varietal style. Herbal, red fruits, herbaceous and vegetal character. More acid driven. Much of Yakima’s style is because of landscape orientation. Here the ridges run east to west where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. There is also the Stuart Range in the Enchantment Basin which hosts a granite soil profile while wrinkles in the central crust resulted in basaltic, south facing slopes. Meanhwile Neufeld is one of a few producers to discuss the fires and potential for smoke taint. He comments that 2023 reminds him of 2007 when there really was no issue on the grapes.

“My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one” – Bill Monson, President, Goose Ridge Vineyards

Heritage Vineyards

Old vines are key to the tenets of quality and success for growing regions worldwide. There are parts of Europe and also grape varieties that suffer from increased disease pressure and low fruit vigour but there are also locations, especially in warmer and more southern climates that host century vines still in positive rotation. South America, Australia and South Africa especially celebrate the heritage and age of old vines that keep on giving. While there are some vines and wineries populating the wet, mild climate of western Washington, it is the greater fields of Washington State’s warm and predominately desert climate playing host to many special blocks, many of them planted in the 1970s and 1980s where the finest expressions of the region’s terroirs are produced. Still dozens of others are coming on strong and on their way to joining the heritage account. Not to be forgotten is the high quantity and profound importance of own (as opposed to grafted upon) rootstock in Washington’s vineyards.

Airfield, Arnaut Boushey, Canoe Ridge Estate, Cold Creek, Dubrul, Moxee, Olsen, Phil Church, Rainmaker, Red Willow, Rosa Hills, Rothrock, Two Blondes and Upland vineyards in the Yakima Valley
Hyatt, Outlook, Portteus, Morrison, Stonemark and Whisky Canyon in the Rattlesnake Hills
Bacchus, Dionysus, Double D, Evergreen, Galitzine, Klein, Lawrence, Lewis Estate, Phinny Hill, Sagemoor, Stoneridge, Sundance, Tapteil and Wallula Gap of the Columbia Valley
Andrews, Champoux, Discovery, Lake Wallula, Mach One, Palengat, Sorella and Zephyr Ridge in Horse Heaven Hills
Clifton Bluff, Desert Wind, Fox Estate, North Ridge, Riverbend, Rosebud, StoneTree and Weinbau in the Wahluke Slope
Beautiful Powerline, En Chamberlin, Ferguson, Forgotten Hills, Heather Hill, Hidden Northridge, Leonetti, Loess, Pepper Bridge, Powerline, Serra Pedace, Seven Hills, Spring Valley, Sur Echalas, Woodward Canyon and Yellow Bird in the Walla Walla Valley
Mill Creek and Upland in the “North Fork” (of the Walla Walla River)
Bel’Villa, Cara Mia, Ciel du Cheval, Grand Ciel, Hedges, Jolet, Kiona, Kingpin, Klipsun, Les Gosses, Magdalena, Quintessence, Shaw, Upchurch, Terra Blanca and Weather Eye on Red Mountain
Ancient Stones, Holy Roller, Lafore, (Freewater, River and Rotie) Rocks, SJR in The Rocks District of (of Milton-Freewater)

These are but a shortlist with many more qualified and soon to qualify vineyards coming into their own. Heritage means more than grapevines, succinctly iterated by Bill Monson, President of Goose Ridge Vineyards. “My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one.” CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda of Valdemar Estates may be newer to the Washington wine scene but he echoes the sentiment. “We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.”

Canadians and Kate at Spring Valley Vineyard

Syrah and Rhône varieties rising

Washinton State’s reputation has above all else been built on Bordeaux varieties but the present and the future see syrah and other Rhône grape varieties taking up more airspace, vineyard acreage and mind. The reds in syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan and counoise; The whites in marsanne, roussane, viognier, grenache blanc, clairette blanche and picpoul. On this last trip the Rhônes and varietal syrah were poured, discussed at length, waxed rhapsodic upon and just plain celebrated at Airfield Estates, Hedges, Gramercy Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, SMAK, Sonder, Spring Valley Vineyards, Valdemar Estates and Vital Wines. The Rhônes are taking hold and growing exponentially in the Yakima Valley, on Red Mountain, upon the Royal Slope and throughout the Walla Walla Valley, especially at the Oregon border in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Plantings began in the mid-1908s in the Red Willow Vineyard of Yakima Valley.

Team Canada at House of Smith

WAugust in Washington

This WAugust trip to Washington wine country was made possible by the erudite folks at the Washington State Wine Commission, both in that spectacular state and also here in Canada. Just two months earlier a full-on participatory Pacific Northwest Wine event took place in Toronto and some added notes can be found at the end of this lengthy report. Three great humans work tirelessly (amongst many others behind the scenes) on behalf of the state’s more than 1,000 wineries, large and small. Keep in mind that Washington is the second-largest wine producing state in the United States, with over 1,050 wineries making over 17 million cases of wine, contributing more than $8 billion in annual in-state economic impact. That is a profound breadth of ground to cover for the small WSWC team. Chris Stone is Deputy Director and Kate Salisbury is International Marketing Manager. Chaperones Salisbury and Claudie Lamoureux of Washington State Wine for Canada were charged with the on point, on time task for five fulfilling and over-achieving days. Hard to say which of their characters or abilities were tops – driving prowess or durability, kindness, patience or grace. All of the above and it is imagined that Godello’s fellow travellers would wholeheartedly agree; Alana Lapierre, Angela Aiello and Mandi Roberston. In any case there was everything to experience, much along the lines of the varied and diverse wineries, AVAs and personalities encountered. Of conglomerates and boutiques, generational families and new blood, the established and the start-ups, pedagogues and rock stars, boffins and balladeers. There was much wine poured and these are the 135 tasting notes.

J. Bookwalter

Columbia Valley AVA

J. Bookwalter

John Bookwalter was a graduate of UC Davis Vineyard Management program and farmed some of Washington’s most famous tracts, Sagemoor, Bacchus and Dionysus. In 1982 he started J. Bookwalter, making approximately 2,000 cases of white wines. In the 90s he started the reds program and 2023 marked the 40th harvest. Chance Cruzen is winemaker and happens to be a big fan of Iggy Pop.

With the boys of J. Bookwalter

J. Bookwalter 3rd Edition 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Flagship white, Bordeaux idiom, based on sémillon (63 percent) with sauvignon blanc (20) and muscadelle (19). The sém is both anchor and driver, dominating the aromatics and that speaks to how well this has been managed and blended. They keep the faith, act as catalyst for integration of both the varietal trilogy and the wood. John Bookwalter was known to say “choose your wood like you would choose a picture frame.” Equally important is the creation of consequence between flowing grace and bracing tension. Good strong mid-palate, tight and focused, length is outstanding. Proper flagship appellative white blend. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Merlot Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Mainly merlot but not exclusively, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc for good support, measure and spice. The oak is noticed, the tannins powdery yet silky enough to make this über sippable. Still a bit gangly to be honest with some white peppery piques on the aromatics and so another year will surely send this merlot to be in a place it was intended to be. A few grams of residual sugar plump it up and then chocolate, a next effect by barrel aging which only serves to make this a truly silken, creamy and yet acid retentive red wine. Produces up to 1,500 cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Conflict 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Conflict, aged on lees, bottled 18 months after harvest. A great vintage save for some smoke that drifted in from fires all over the west, though really less dramatic here in the Columbia Valley than many other places. Pretty taut red that has not yet released its true aromatic charm, in fact it could be another 18 months before that really begins. The Readers Merlot is a much earlier proposition and the more diverse varietal meets barrel make-up with style intendment to make this a more structured and powerfully restrained merlot-dominant proprietary blend. Good yields though and a juiciness here that says the type of acidity in Conflict is quite different to that of Readers. This shows real potential, luxe as it is and all parts are prepared thoughtfully, with blood sweat and tears, yet neither by pretence nor blind ambition. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Rounded out by five percent syrah and petit verdot, with thanks to a most important grower/vineyard, that being Dionysus. A richer, thicker and more unctuous red (as compared to merlot) but fruit concentration is on par. That said the warmer Dionysus site can’t help but deliver this kind of glycerin viscosity and so the blackberry-Cassis dominance will not be denied. Can’t miss the silky syrah and petit verdot depth that put this in the kind of red best defined as full and substantial. Refined and finessed enough, never overarching or reaching, best now and for a few to five years forward. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Protagonist 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Change of pace, in a way, from Conflict to Protagonist because for the first time there is an Italian (think Bolgheri) like stylistic coming through. Dusty, chalky and powdery tannins are evident, even in the face of fulsome and concentrated fruit. Juicy to the nth degree, ridiculously delicious and then a chocolate plus espresso crema all over the back end. The cumulative effect by fruit, terroir, climate and barrel aging make this climb to a rich and creamy finale pretty much unavoidable. Some sweetness follows and after some REM sleep there will be a long, melodic and jangling future for this Columbia Valley red. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vic Palencia

Palencia

Victor (Vic) Palencia’s grandfather was a first generation immigrant from Spain (to Mexico) and he is first gen. American, so the symmetry, from Valencia to Palencia, is something to hang a northwest hat on. Vic started in Walla Walla in 2012 after taking a flyer and to realize a dream. As a first generation immigrant it cements the legally forming “sueno” even deeper. Thus the “Monarcha” brand, “earning my wings,” says Vic. “If you drink two bottles, cabernet and merlot side by side, you can fly.” A symbol for lifestyle, easy drinking wines and then the Palencia label, more serious, exulting Washington State’s diversity of grape varieties grown. The label depicts his father holding a shovel, “always working the land.” Palencia is located in Kennewick.

Godello foreground, background Vic Palencia

Palencia Sparkling Albariño

Charmat method, sweet and salty, like nuts and caramel corn but leaner and tighter as per the grace by variety. Simple stuff with good energy. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Says Columbia Valley but really should be called Ancient Lakes located in northwest Washington. But Columbia is more recognizable and so here we are. If it smells like albariño and tastes like albariño well, you know the rest but truthfully this is a less herbaceous and more mineral example. And so Ancient Lakes it is. The terroir is hardpan calcareous limestone, good for drainage and reduction of hydric stress with sandy loam of up to 19 inches above. Pretty good albariño for dessert lands so far from a coast – but the place is definitely the reason. Nice little CO2 buzz about it as well which is so varietally correct. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Malbec Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From Vic Palencia and family in Kennewick with Columbia Valley fruit, 14 months in wood. Nice little char and smoulder on sweetly salty and sour-edged fruit. Higher acidity than many malbecs and also valley wines so this wants and needs food. Mojo bowl anyone? Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Cabernet Sauvignon Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From the Richland Hills in the Columbia Valley where thicker skins and high quality fruit translate to unction and developed tannin. Cassis and Ribena mix, tart and candy hearts sour, in a good place right here and right now. Some powder in those tannins but resolution is just about complete. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Petit Verdot 2017, Wahluke Slope AVA

Part of the El Viñador line which is essentially Reserve style but the name is more specific and indicative of what it means to grow and make these kinds of varietal wines. From fruit grown on the Wahluke Slope AVA. Structure and mouthfeel justify the reasoning and the result, especially the tannic intensity and power at the yet to relent finish. Wood thickens, spices and sweetens the last third of this petit verdot which is really unlike any other, grown anywhere and produced as a solo artist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Syrah El Viñador 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Red Mountain fruit and signature varietal effort but also style that Palencia seems most comfortable with. This is because the balance, restraint and finesse are at their collective finest in this kind of handsome and sturdy wine. Still some chalky and powdery tannin but overall the harmony and seamlessness are pretty spot on. Ready to go and please. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Top notch Paella at Palencia

Palencia Carmenère 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Sourced from the hottest region in Washington, that being Red Mountain and picked quite late. Nothing green about this carmenère, in fact it’s fruit and wood are thick as thieves, the tannins silken and the capsicum or jalapeño non-existent. Chewy like chocolate liquorice and very much a wine made for those who like it rich, luxe and thick. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño El Viñador 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The founding vineyard for albariño at Palencia’s reserve line is as advertised more concentrated, focused and finessed. From various harvests each fermented separately for 30 days in Hungarian oak puncheons then blended together before bottling. Aiming for a Galician style though truth be told you can take the albariño out of Galicia but you can’t take the Columbia Valley out of this albariño. Warm, rich and unctuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Tirriddis Boys – Matthew Doutney, Gabriel Crowell and Andrew Gerow

Tirriddis

Tirage … Riddle … Disgorge. Tirriddis, acronym of sorts for three sparkling wine producing friends (Andrew Gerow, Gabriel Crowell, and Matthew Doutney) who celebrated the end of school with Gimonnet and Janz Champagne, fried chicken and chips. All attended Washington State University for viticulture and oenology. Their collective motto is “if we fail, we can always move back in with our parents. “Wine is a super architectural art form,” explains Gerow. “We’re really just trying to define Washington – defining typicality that really doesn’t exist yet.” First base wine were made in the Fall of 2020.

Tirriddis House Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

House tier is all about distribution, for restaurants and export in a fun and recognizable style. Here 100 per cent pinot gris, creamy aromatics, mousse as well, the sweetest of all the Tirridis wines at 11 g/L. Looks at reeling in a Prosecco crowd that can’t afford $50 sparkling wines. Sees 12 months on the lees and it is traditional method so expect some autolysis, mild oxidation and ultimately great energy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Brut, Columbia Valley AVA

More than 50 percent of the base wine is original (from the fall of 2020) and is essentially chardonnay with a few percentage points of albariño. Tirridis for tirage-riddle-disgorge (clever) and the sugars are hidden behind the acidity. Raises a bar for the vital scintillant nature of grapes farmed for wines that transfer energy like sparks jumping from hydro pole to hydro pole. Similar creaminess and mousse to the pinot gris but the orchard fruit here is different than that peachy stone. Who would dare not pour this as a warm home welcome or by the licensee glass? Tastes like unbaked Washington with tight bubbles. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

One-quarter each cabernet sauvignon, syrah, merlot and chardonnay, not unusual for Washington per se though no real frame of reference from the sparkling diaspora neither. Celebrates red fruit, from currants through plums and this surely comes across drier than it is, not quite the 12 g/L of pinot gris but this is pretty taut and wound for Rosé bubbles. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Brut Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

The second rendition of the Brut Rosé, three parts, in triage two years, of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and chardonnay. One-third each means less red fruit so more of a currant current and the yeasty feels step up sooner and for longer. Still a scintillant intensity of vitality and energy plus some bitters this time around. Anything but a soft, upturned Brut style and saying this is a tasting room profile is pretty much spot on. Just feels like the teaching moment and in turn signature for the boys’ intonement of style. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Washington Blend, Columbia Valley AVA

Everything but the kitchen sink though in actuality it is anything but because it’s not the last lot to be put together each season. A blank slate concept that intends to represents the region in an unapologetic way. Fruity first, of merlot, riesling, pinot gris, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, viognier and syrah. Neither Blanc nor Rosé but a rainbow of multifariousness and truth be told this is seamless fizz, a Venn diagram of varietal and geography, of potential, diversity and exceptionality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

Third rendition looking for pure honeycomb and the guys feel they nailed it on number three, or at least set themselves upon a path to get it right there when number four comes to fruition. Why more sparkling producers do not refer to a varietal sparkling pinot gris in these terms is beyond me. It just fits. Creamy yes, with botanicals and bitters but the pear coulis flavour is uncanny. This goes a bit to herbal and preserved lemon foamy (and acidity is a bit subdued) but it’s close, oh so close. Can’t wait for rendition number four. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Blanc Stonemark Single Vineyard 2020, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

First single vineyard sparkling wine, all chardonnay, small plantings in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, 1,600 feet of elevation, of brushy savour and direct hits of more than one kind of citrus. The concept is a growers’ one – with obvious connotations. Elevation is clearly the driver because this is about acidity and high intensity, all pervasive and above all else in what this site wishes to give. Poured from Magnum, extended triage. Lemony, tight, zesty and just about zero dosage. Can see this living six or seven years. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Riley Miller, Sonder

Sonder

Established in 2016 by Riley Miller. Low-Fi, non-intervention, but not natural wines. Inspired by his time in the McLaren Vale. The initial production in 2016 was 100 cases – today about 3,000 cases. A thinker, but not too hard, yet still a man of wonder. Likes to consult the Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, from which the realization is concluded that everyone around you has a complex life, as much as your own – but we can’t comprehend half of it. “We are like monkeys flying on a rock through space.” Observe Miller conduct a wine tasting for visiting journalists and you can imagine the inner workings of a modern day winemaking production. Riley’s bottles are anything but some kind of toad swindle. They are made for all of us, including those who don’t know it yet.

Sonder Rosé Cinsault 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Trying to capture a Provençal style, 24 hours of skin contact, gently extracted and truly crushable. Lightly tart, basic, simple, unadorned. Native ferment. Truly cinsault to be honest. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache Blanc 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Big chunk of the fruit comes from Boucher Vineyards and a smaller portion out of the Rattlesnake Hills. Warm and mature though high elevations keep it fresh and again the naked nature of a Riley Miller wine make this immediately crushable. Unadulterated, no make up and local. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Roussanne 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

True expression of grape, not necessarily “perfect” wines, nor is there any reason to want them to be but they are representative of site and Washington. Neutral oak, tropical notes, fresh papaya and pineapple syrup, tart and textural with thanks to some stirring. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Orange, mostly viognier with some marsanne and roussanne, six weeks on skins, six months in neutral oak. Grapes that don’t really bring the orange but instead the partly cloudy pineapple juice hue. A wine that challenges why orange is the ubiquitous term because funk and melting salve are not the thing. Spice yes and litchi, also grapefruit and the most mild of bitters. Has that anesthetic feel on the palate. Third iteration of this wine. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Co-Ferment 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A co-ferment of grenache and picpoul, first time trying, served chilled, “a patio pounder.” Watermelon Jolly Rancher insists Riley Miller, 11.5 percent and as crushable as wine can possibly get. Juice. Water, pink, alcohol. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Red Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Mostly counoise and grenache with some cinsault, viognier and roussanne. A couple of weeks on skins, co-fermented with some whole cluster and carbonic maceration. Simple, drinkable, low alcohol, currants and red berries, sweet acidity, a moment of balsamic and charred herbs. The grapes almost combine for a cabernet franc or even lightly smoky cannonau meets carmenère effect. Nothing else like it and better for that. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Rarely made grenache by method and style “as close to pinot as is humanly possible” says Riley Miller. Picked early, 20 percent whole cluster, Western Cape stylistic, light, low alcohol, fresh and shadowy, suggestively if sneaky tannic. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Orcas Project Nebbiolo Andrews Vineyard 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

“The Orcas Project is a collaboration between some of the most talented winemakers in the Northwest and a collection of Orcas Island artists. The idea to combine these two groups of people was born on the island and continues to expand throughout the Northwest. Each winemaker that is part of The Orcas Project is paired with an artist and represented by a different label.” Riley Miller’s is pseudo carbonic for which 50 per cent whole cluster is added back on top – makes for a grippy if light and effusive style. Cherry, candy apple and onion skin. Picked early as if for Rosé and frankly reminds of Cerasuolo. Fine bitters, good balance and a bit of roasted nightshade char. Cinnamon heart finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Kinnikinick Red

Chateau Ste Michelle

Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington State’s oldest winery, and many of Washington’s most famed winemakers got their start with the Estate. Ste Michelle is also the largest producer of Riesling in the world, and has winemaking partnerships with two international vintners: Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen. As part of the visit, the Canadian team was treated to a Blending Experience.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica 2022, Columbia Valley

More than a hint of residual sugar yet the driest style for CSM and though the relationship is with Ernie Loosen this is not Mosel style. Fruit is sourced primarily from the Evergreen Vineyard to bring Eroica into its proverbial and ironic sweet spot. The “hero” is in ode to the winery’s varietal roots and a Beethoven reference. Bit of residual CO2, high acid and truly tart. Balanced vintage, vital and energy elevating. Will be one of Eroica’s better agers. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Indian Wells 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Much like Eroica there is a residual CO2 buzz and at least twice if not three times the number (here eat 30 g/L) of residual sugar. Quite rich, luxe and opulent with just a few sites left to create this round and sweet style. High Kabinett or low Spätlese in a sense but without the supporting acid. More Mosel here and yet also quite a lot more phenolics and tonic. For a consumer that likes sweet wines but can be drawn into riesling, followed by some less sweet varietal examples. Some wine producing and drinking habits never die. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Relatively rich and luxe chardonnay style, sweetly buttery, soft and creamy. No real bite but just easy, amenable and though considered a cooler spot with better acidity than some it’s still as round as chardonnay gets. Softens more and more as it slides down and feeds away. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Indian Wells 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Reds are the main focus at Indian Wells and while the style is opulence, this cabernet sauvignon is surely designed to be consumed ASAP. Tannins are present yet sweetly soft and wood soaks up everything, then returns it with semi-sweet chocolate. A quarter is new American oak and 20 percent is French. Soft with some sweetness, macerated plums and that ever pervasive chocolate. Hugely consumer friendly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

A third new French and seven percent American wood truly sheathes, thickness and wraps merlot up in a nurturing flannel blanket for merlot that has softened into an almost ideal drinking state. The 2016 was much more tannic and though some omnipresent balsamic shows here it’s more reduced, sweeter and less high-toned. Lower acid here, at 4.8. Warm and caressing vintage for the palate and our emotions. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Cold Creek Vineyard is a very successful vintage for cabernet sauvignon, more finely tannic and higher in acid than 2016. The energy is special, the harmony between fruit, acid, tannin and wood far superior to other seasons and also other growing sites. Yes there is luxe fruit, concentrated and substantial but the combination of harvest and winemaking makes for an exceptional combination out of 2019. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste Michelle Syrah Limited Release Organic 2020, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Deep purple, fruit sweetness from über ripeness and a clarity or cleansing feeling for naturally curated and orchestrated syrah. So profoundly bright new world in style and effect, delicious to the nth degree and openly gratifying. Drink up. Tasted June 2023

14 Hands Winery

14 Hands

Chateau Ste Michelle property located in Prosser.

14 Hands Pinot Gris 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Clean, fresh, soda feel that puts the style in gris though there’s not much separating it from grigio, either from the Columbia Valley or across the pond delle Venezie. Vague melon and honeyed flower blossoms but when all is said and done this easiest to get at pinot gris from the grand Columbia Valley is a simple glass of white ubiquity. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Roussanne Marsanne The Reserve 2022, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

Crisp Rhône white blend with a small percentage of wood to give it a wisp of smoulder that combines with some lees stirring for a creamy mid-palate. Higher in pH than some of this sort of Yakima ilk to result in elevated sapidity, a toothsome quality and finally piquant bite. Quite a bit of sulphur to work through but no worry because being structurally sound and very “reserve” in style the fruit and the composure will rise and win in the end. Give this some air, a swirl and agitation to coax out the charm. Just a 350 case production. Drink 20224-2027. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Stampede 2018, Columbia Valley AVA

Stampede is 14 Hands’ self-declared “bold red wine” and while the marketing sounds like something in the realm of BBQ sauce this is really impressive for the price. Essentially syrah with some petit verdot “to give it some shoulders” tells winemaker Keith Kenison who has been with the winery since its inception. French oak dominant translating as lavender, jasmine and vanilla, the latter a tincture that permeates much of the aromas and flavours. Yes it’s confected but also rich and unctuous for $15 (US). Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon The Reserve 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Led by cabernet sauvignon and labeled as such though there are supports from both cabernet franc and merlot. A protein cabernet, meaning it drinks with strength and pairing it alongside entrée portion meats, preferably red will do it best justice. Carries that full barrel feeling in surround of a swell (mainly black) fruit and incredible richness, feeling like sweetness, but the wine is bone dry. Wood resin, syrups, up and into a whole other level of concentration. The most refined and luxurious of the 14 Hands reds (or whites) that competes with top Washington and also some heavier priced California examples. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Goose Cap AVA at Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Gap AVA

Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Ridge in Richland and adjacent to Red Mountain is unique in that it is the owner of its own (Goose Gap) AVA, approved three years ago. The first planting of cabernet sauvignon was 25 years ago in 1998 and today there are a total of 2,500 acres of vines. The Monson family dates back to the early 1900s when M.L. Monson brought his family to the Yakima Valley. Taylor is the fourth generation, dad and two sisters (Bill, Molly and Valerie) are the third. The family is equally famous for cultivating Cosmic Crisp Apples (that don’t brown), developed with Washington State University and the first to grow them. The visit in the vines and through the facility culminated in a quick tasting of four wines though the setting was not conducive to formulating proper tasting notes.

Red Mountain

Col Solare

Located on Antinori Road in Benton City is the Château Ste Michelle Red Mountain partnership with Tuscany’s most famous family. A tour with Col Solare’s hospitality team reveals the bond with the mothership. “Antinori dictates what we do and the style of wines they want us to make.” There are no problems, only solutions and fixing issues like re-planting problematic cabernet sauvignon blocks is in the process of a three-year plan. “The only wine we make here that the Antinoris care about is cabernet sauvignon – so it has to be great.” The new winemaker is Stephanie Cohen, a Michigan graduate in Chemical Engineering. Cohen worked in New Zealand, Margaret River and Napa Valley, where she met Marcus Notaro, first winemaker at Col Solare. Stephanie went to Oregon, then Columbia Crest, then arrived at Col Solare three years ago. She was appointed head winemaker on July 1st, taking over from Darel Allwine. “Do we love what Stephanie is doing? Short answer is yes.”

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

The vintage brings about three major changes; label, style and price. The Col Solare had been in the $75-85 range going on 10 years but now it’s about Antinori wanting something “better.” In every respect ’19 is certainly darker and richer, of an impenetrable hue and structure. An Italian cabernet sauvignon, as close to Bolgheri Guado Al Tasso as Col Solare has ever been, but this holding pattern will almost surely be temporary. A Red Mountain interpretation from small (blueberry-sized) berries, raised with low vigour off of soils of sand and silt. Aged 22 months, not quite but pretty close to 100 percent new oak. Racked every three or four months, to eliminate slag and to refine, refine, refine. Aids in tannin transformation and eliminates the need for fining. A cabernet of great depth, of Cassis, mint and graphite. Luxe character, finesse, if not the level of fantasy wished for – but this new is the first of the new. By 2020 invention should meet vision for the next level of Col Solare quality. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Essentially cabernet sauvignon with five percent franc while only 2015 and 2020 have been 100 percent. From the hottest wine-growing AVA in Washington state, with basalt below the soil surface, irrigated six to eight inches per year. Early picked and in 2023 this will likely start on or around the 20th of August, to finish off what has been “a really weird year.” There are 4,040 total acres in an AVA considered one of seriously high quality. Col Solare has been growing here since 2011 but not enough to meet production numbers and so six Red Mountain contract growers are involved. The average case number is 5,000 for a cabernet sauvignon as suave as it is rich though 2018 is the last of an era, because 2019 will mark changes to concentration, detail and price. Meanwhile the ’18 is equipped with the finest powdery tannins. Truth is there can be no denying the quality levels of fruit, wood and tannin. All relatable to uncompromising labour, time put in and attention to detail. It’s all too perfect. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Merlot 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Though 2019 was marked by an unusual Spring in a cooler and by extension leaner year it’s a relative thing and so Col Solare has still made a very substantial wine. This label falls under the auspices of the Component Collection, a “Tenuta” expression mainly intended for the Wine Club. All estate fruit, built on the premise of perfume ostensibly if allegedly a Washington state desert opportunity exaggerated on Red Mountain. Intense violets with blue fruits that merlot will express at these magnified levels when allowed to. Still tight as far as structure is concerned but thankfully three-plus years have allowed for some wood integration and tannic settling. A fruit emergence is underway and frankly encouraged, more so than the cabernet, if here in merlot not quite as polished as a wine. The finish shows the rusticity and austerity of the tannins while the quality of the chocolate is nothing if not impressive. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

With Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges

“Our driving force is for our wines to have a Red Mountain quality,” is basically the first sentence uttered by proprietor Christophe Hedges. “I don’t know if we’re trying to be authentic but we are following our mother’s lead, that if you are going to do something, do it correctly.” Anne-Marie Liégeois grew up in Ossey-les-Trois-Maisons, in Champagne, France. She married Tom Hedges from Richland, Washington in 1976. Their first wines were sold to Sweden in 1997. The first vineyards on Red Mountain in the Yakima Valley were planted in 1989 and 1990 and the winery-Chateau was built in 1995. Christophe returned in 2012 and is National Sales Director while sister Sarah Hedges Goedhart took over full-time winemaking in 2015. This coincides with the first certified label under the biodynamic program which began back in 2008. Goedhart says there’s no formula ever. “We’re just trying to be guided by what the grape’s want to be. Blending is the hardest part.”

Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christope Hedges

Hedges Le Blanc Déscendants Liégeois Dupont 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A program that began in 2014, use of older barrels, some lees contact and bâttonage. A niche wine from Rhône grapes (namely marsanne with viognier), because whites at this level just don’t sell all that much. Even as brix levels rise the pH on this wine remains quite static and so as an aromatic white this remains pungently salty and avoids the starchy. Richer than expected and dutifully harmonious, clearly a wine of class, beauty and understatement. Lemon and orange peel, really nutty and slightly toasty, with only 400-500 cases made from just one hectare. It will change a lot and get brinier and brinier, becoming even better with stronger aged cheeses and many things cured. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Wines CMS Made With Organic Grapes 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The “American” version label, minimally sulphured and just bottled a week ago. A “farm” style wine, crunchy and sitting right there with a local sense of terroir, northwest, Columbia Valley, very different than what comes from Red Mountain. That said it has more Red Mountain fruit than Columbia Valley. The blend is 48 percent cabernet sauvignon, (44) merlot and (8) syrah, subjected to very, very little new wood. Fresh and clean with an iodine and wet concrete note, almost Western Cape in style. Spice and intensity speak about house style with a broad stroke on a painted picture. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Wine 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A blend off all the vineyards on Red Mountain (Hedges, Jolet, Bel’Villa, Magdalena and Les Gosses), berries about half the size of what comes from Columbia Valley. A higher pH place with less water conversion and more evaporation. Yields are smaller by half and extraction levels the opposite with thicker skins and when ripe, also crunchier seeds. The ’21 blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, (26) merlot, (9) syrah, (6) cabernet franc, (3) malbec and (1) petit verdot. Aged in 62 percent American and (38) French wood. Rich, luxe, concentrated and fixated on its home, that being these five blocks on the Red and frankly the palate feels intoxicated or anesthetized by the command of attention and purpose dictated by place. A top vintage, without a doubt. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Le Haute Cuvée 2018, Red Mountain AVA

This is 99.77 percent cabernet sauvignon and the rest, well does it matter? A cuvée that goes back to 1987 and here a Hedges professed, native ferment instructed great vintage. Lots of different cabernet sauvignon components make up this prominent and confident biodynamic wine. Red to black fruit, a noted brininess, higher acidity, seemingly lower pH, saltiness and dusty Christmas spice. The potential here runs long and deep, without weight and still some iodine, balsamic and minty freshness. Shot of espresso conclusion that speaks to another level of tannic dust and combust. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Touriga Nacional 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Quite possibly the future of Red Mountain, at least for Hedges, having planted three Portuguese grapes some time ago. Their heat resistance and ability to adapt preps them for next level climate extreme to come. Aged in 100 percent neutral American barrels and coming away liquid chalky, dark and feigning vague sweetness. Drips and oozes with Red Mountain iron, iodine and though truly opaque, there is this transparency of pace and place that cannot be hidden. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

No mention of Hedges on the front label but instead Anne-Marie’s family name because you have to respect your history. And the vineyard is hers, planted in 2006 then certified biodynamic in 2019. A block that winemaker Sarah Goedhart runs through with several different picks, some falling on one side and some on the stylistic other, than blended back in together. Its richness is anything but gratuitous, the depth descendent and built upon the idea or concept of gravitas. Full, complete and a most satisfying mouthful. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Rich, thick and finely layered syrah from the distinct entity that is Red Mountain with its not to be missed meaty, mineral, sanguine, ferric rich, red earth character. There is an underlying chalkiness here and one that will surely determine a long life ahead, as witnessed by the linger and hang around ability of of a syrah on a clear and present mission. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Le Rosé Les Gosses Vineyard 2022, Red Mountain AVA

A kitchen sink Rosé blend led by syrah (42 percent) with (21) mourvèdre, (18) cunoise and (14) grenache. Aromatic as much as syrah is want to go, for us and so the Rhône gang’s get together works so bloody well. There is a sanguine character with thanks to the mountain’s soil and the movement here is classical, strings reverberating, flowing, rising and falling, no real cresencedo but a softening and fade. Just lovely stuff. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Syrah Bell Villa Vineyard 2012, Red Mountain AVA

Tasted from magnum (bottle 110 of 200 to be exact) and shocked (in a redacted moment) by how fresh and non-advanced this wine persists to be. This syrah is from a vineyard that was the second one planted on Red Mountain and what we are faced with is a 15 year-old block that was so far ahead of its time. Tasting this 10-plus years after vintage feels like fiercely re-reading an old Tom Robbins novel, celebrating the proper work of the past and predicting what will be essential in the future. The search back then begets syrah in hot climates now. Getting the sage brush but now, now the fungi have come about, though not the kind that grow in a western rainforest. More like that which emerges from a burn site. In any case the impression is syrah from a beautifully stark place. La belle de campagne. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Walla Walla

SMAK Wines

SMAK Wines is the first Asian woman owned and operated winery in Walla Walla producing exclusively Rosé. “Rosé to me is more than just a beverage, it is a lifestyle. I wanted to bring this lifestyle here and so SMAK was born.”- Fiona Mak, Owner & Winemaker.

SMAK Sangiovese Spring 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

SMAK Wines is the work of Fiona (Sui Wah) Mak and sangiovese is made just like the pinot gris, save for how it exults the high acid and sharp nature of sangiovese. Still so light and rainwater clean, not quite petrichor but yes, a Rosé that drinks like water. Back up the truck for this glug-glug, glou-glou, grape witches fantasy of Rosé. Salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Gris Summer 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

I mean not all that different than the sangiovese if lighter, lower in acid and well, summery. Light, bright, tender, carefree, unadorned and even saltier, to be honest. Just what you need, whether you know it or not and well before you even know your needs are needed. Salty magic as koan. Koan of Rosé. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Autumn 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with syrah and its autumnal personality, barrel fermented in neutral wood, some malolactic and so not the usual but rather a Rosé with some extra nuance, spice, texture and fantasy. No lewd or ambitious stylistic departure from Spring and Summer, just a bit more grounded, of blush gravitas, creaminess and something needed to be explained. Rosé smackdown without any undesired anxiety or tension. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Bubbly Blend Winter 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fizz Rosé by syrah with some addendum by grenache and a few extra grams of residual sugar to keep the harmony and faith alive. Nice little bit of naturalization in the way the wine sits on the palate and melts like a caramel and lemongrass salve. Red currants and again, coming across dry and just tannic enough to keep things moving forward. Would like another half gram of acid for best energy and more length. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Cabernet Franc Rosé Abstract #1 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

There is just something about cabernet franc that when it’s made into Rosé (and made well) the grape variety is more recognizable than almost any other. Fiona Mak has captured grape and what just has to be place with a level of calm and hypnotism that Rosé rarely sees. Drink a glass, get your Rosé buzz on, feel OK for the rest of the day. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Noir Rosé Abstract #2 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Gotta say this might be the best use of pinot noir in Washington, light, salty and without distraction to cause any overthinking. Closer to the sangiovese than any of the others and with an extra layer of volatility, sharpness and tang. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

With Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker – Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars

The story of Gramercy Cellars began with a Manhattan-based sommelier tasting and becoming inspired by Washington State wines. He sells everything to move across the country to make his own. Master Sommelier Greg Harrington and production winemaker Brandon Moss are the mad scientists, experimental music makers, open-minded and forward thinking team. They are intuitive and paying attention to the extremities of climate events. Fully aware that 2020 was a brutal smoke year and so 25 percent was balked out after remediation. “Mourvèdre can handle it” tells Moss, but “cabernet franc and pinot noir simply can’t.” Elizabeth Tommasino at Oregon State is researching “columns” that neutralize smoke taint without stripping varietal from wines.

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul Pét Nat

Sparkling picpoul, low pH, high acidity, aromatically neutral and boom, Pét-Nat. Left on its lees for something like 10 months before being disgorged and so yeasty is the understatement. Graffiti labeled, an element of Gramercy Park, NYC ode. Smells like chèvre and preserved lemon, minutely funky and well, extremely French. Weirdly so and the yeasty-bready ready quality is more sourdough than anything else but also this dry-aged beef note that purists will really love. This is how you make wine without excess sulphur, cultured yeasts and for the purpose of re-fermentative ideals. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Not a whole helluva lot of picpoul made in the United States and especially in hot climates but it ripens late and the acidity can be maintained – that said you need a lot of heat to get it ripe. This may not be the Languedoc and the lean, salty, low pH style without lees weight or drive puts this in a league of its own. Vines were planted in 2013, clusters are loose and massive, the wine it makes is acid-driven, fresh and simple. Pencil lead, cinnamon heart and fennel pollen. More complex than you might think. All lemon and lime on the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Viognier 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Sourced from Lake Chelan for a cooler climate base and then the Gramercy vineyard called Forgotten Hills in the Walla Walla Valley. The WW fruit is all barrel fermented while the Lake fruit is only treated to forty percent. The complete opposite of the typically recent warm vintages and so don’t come looking for tropical fruit and fresh roses. Think orchards, of pear and then that douse of lime with a salty finish. Summertime temperatures in later September brought weight and closure to this ’22 viognier. Might still be a tad lean but phenolics are solid and balance is not to be questioned. This is viognier for those who don’t always love viognier. Thank you warm October. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Mourvèdre “L’Idiot Du Village” 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Varietal, from Olson Vineyard west of Red Mountain up on the north ridge, back hill of Benton City. Hot for ripeness though not quite Red Mountain hot. Fermentation and aging in concrete with more barriques involved and then a racking back to concrete. Nearly 60 percent whole cluster because the vintage said so and biting into the stems directed such a decision. First vintage was 2009 and along with 2010 it was a GSM-C blend but over time (and as a result of a trip to Bandol) the weird blend was dropped in favour of making mourvèdre, a.k.a. the true Washington rock star. Peppery but no char, herbal though never herbaceous, red fruit strong without any unnecessary tension or power. Kind, soft and nurturing for the grape. Terrific use of whole bunch, proper and grape related. No bitterness, no smoke taint. Clean as it gets. Pretty much ready to pop and pour. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

On the Blue Mountain side of Walla Walla, picked early in most parts of the state but not until October in Forgotten Hills, set down below in an ancient riverbed in the valley. De-stemmed in 2019 because of some mild issues and very much a red fruit juicy, lighter character of syrah with peppery liquidity and little to no sharp bites of tang. Crunchy stuff, relatively low in Rotundun and made to respect the vintage which did not want the makers to keep the bunches whole. Nothing aggressive here, fruit always winning. A fifth of the tannic austerity that the (whole cluster component) brought to the 2017. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Nothing wrong with a little bit of age on a syrah that has come into its own with thanks to the powers that be so that we can enjoy the fruits and the result of great labour. The present matters and yet there is a tension and even tannic austerity that asks for even moie time. Such a well crafted syrah, as meaty and coursing as it is fruity or getable, in fact there are few that can match the wound intensity, focus and restrained power as this by Gramercy denotes. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted June 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe 2019, Yakima Valley AVA

From Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley near the town of Wapino. The first Washington syrah vineyard planted in the 1980s by David Lake, a Master of Wine, with Mike Sauer, in 1987. The old block is called Chapel Hill and this is 100 percent whole cluster syrah, completely apposite to Forgotten Hills even though it’s the same vintage. Aromatic concentration, full bodied nature and a naturally sweet meets savoury personality that is quite frankly intoxicating. Lagniappe as Frangipane, something wild and free, a crushed rock and berry entanglement and something profound. Really tight and precise. “Wait, did you hear that?” What’s the music playing? Somewhere down the Crazy River? Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates

In 1889, Joaquin Martínez Bujanda began the family winemaking tradition in Oyón, a small town in Northern Spain. His son, Marcelino, and his grandson, Jesús, followed in his footsteps. Jesús’ son, Don Jesús Martínez Bujanda, created Bodegas Valdemar in the 1980s. His son, Jesús Martínez Bujanda (5th generation), is the current CEO of the family’s winemaking business, and his sister, Ana Martínez Bujanda, is the Cheif Operations Officer for Bodegas Valdemar. Jesús fell in love with the Walla Walla Valley while he was a student at the University of Washington. His passion for winemaking and for the valley led him to create Valdemar Estates.

Valdemar Estates Chardonnay 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Clearly a top chardonnay site and the luxe character is evident, as is the acid, freshness and piqued intensity. The look here is texture, playful movements and interactions between parts so think down south but back to the motherland and south from there. Valdemar paired this with beets, mango and pistachio – my that does work. The finale on this chardonnay is warm and spiced, a harmony of seasoning after fruit and wood subside. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Entre Nosotros 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

“This is our entry level cabernet sauvignon (at $44),” tells Jesús Martínez Bujanda, “but it is the most important wine that we make at the winery. It has to over deliver.” And so the introduction (with some merlot and petit verdot) is the wine that acts as the entry drug and bridge to the top end wines that a Rioja producer thinks creates exceptional wines out of not only the Walla Walla Valley, but also the greater Columbia Valley. You can immediately feel and tell that a Rioja mentality infiltrates the place but how could it not? The chalkiness of the tannins are remarkably fine and the spicy character actually pricks and piques the palate. Purple fruit, creosote, graphite and wood that will take a few years to melt in. The fruit is equipped to handle it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

Immediately noticeable as a cabernet sauvignon from a warmer site, fruit rich and concentrated, doubly substantial and even further developed as richly tannic. Fully, completely substantial and laden with finest grains of tannins in chains every finer, braided as tight as is seemingly possible. Dusty but a thick, duff like matter, coating every minute part of the palate. There are no holes or moments of lag but only heavy set fruit, supportive acids and those massive tannins. Terrific work from winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla and not sure there is a better cabernet sauvignon made anywhere in Spain. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Here Syrah comes from the hottest districts in North America, known as The Rocks, an ancient riverbed on the Washington-Oregon border filled with basaltic cobbles. Valdemar owns a portion and this is arguably THE PLACE to grow syrah in the west. Floral with high level black pepper for classic syrah-Rotundun style. Meaty, with iodine and charcuterie but with no compromise to fruit concentration. A substantial wine in all respects, tannic and well extracted, again across all parts of regard. It can be imagined that the style will change over the next few years as finesses continues to hone in on just what the Rocks wants to give out of vintages ever diverse. Last tasted August 2023

Full on pitchy dark fruit swells from Valdemar, layered, chewy and ropey, like liquorice of many splendored flavours. Full on ripeness and natural sweetness by way of expression without any compromise or conceit of structure. An earlier drinking example though also one that will do well for up to five years because the fruit is just that deep. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted June 2023

L’Ecole No. 41

The old Frenchtown school operated until 1974 and was bought in 1977 with the idea of turning it into a winery. First harvest and official founding was in 1983. Marty Clubb is celebrating his 40th Anniversary. Jean and Baker Ferguson founded the winery in 1983, well before there was a wine industry in Washington. Third in Walla Walla, 20th in the state. Marty was winemaker from 1989 and today its Mark Trafanelli, since 2018. Now 50,000 cases, increasing by 1,000-1,500 every year since 1989. Cabernet is into its 50th leaf, merlot close, chenin blanc next and first sémillon was on Sagamore, also the Wahluke Slope. Not a lot off new plantings and so the overall amount is declining. They make upwards of 30 percent in the state and even more than that in chenin blanc. The school at 500 ft is in a cold frost belt so the older vineyards are planted at 800-900 ft and the new Ferguson Vineyard on basalt is at 1,500. Climate change has improved winter weather ability while diurnal temperature changes can add up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

With Marty Clubb, L’École 41

L’École No 41 Chenin Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Older than 35 years of age and so like the Western Cape OVP the labelling is old vines. Akin to old bones but with experience, resistance to weather issues and creating high level concentration. Some of the fruit comes from the Newhouse family’s vineyard with century vines, sour rot dirty laundry and all. Clones probably came up from Dry Creek Valley in California and my if this does not strike a balanced accord between dry and sour, concentrated and tart. Just woollen enough to mimic the Loire and act nothing like California. Length is more than impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Sémillon 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Comes across as having some sweetness but be fooled once because it’s glycerol that gives the impression, so truth be told the sensory give is astral and incidentally Van Morrison’s seminal track from the eponymous record is playing in the tasting room as the wine is poured. The 2022 shows some early flint and petrol, balanced by the texture developed as a result of extra lees time. Another push-pull example of a L’École No. 41 white off of vines with experience. Just the right amount of tonic and bitters pop at the finish.
“To be born again
In another world
In another world
In another time.”
Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Chardonnay 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A good chunk of this fruit comes from the original block on a crested hill of the larger Evergreen Vineyard. Dear Mr. Fantasy, pour me some chardonnay, from ice age silt and sand, stones and minerals that when respected, treats a consumer to this kind of salty-sapid harmonic chardonnay. All barrel fermented, all French and 20 percent new. I mean it’s an amount and style truly Burgundian with some tropical fruit because it is 2022 and yet acidity is crisp with green apple bites to balance what is also creamy texture. Middle road compared to the chenin and sémillon but also so perfectly professional. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The original estate red, the only one made in the 1980s and still the one that delivers earthy and herbal tones. The 18 percent cabernet franc (plus drips of malbec and petit verdot) creates the verdant and forest floor notes. Good red to red-black fruit from 2020 with highest level phenols and a sweet, pretty persuasion. A couple of glasses and then the melatonin sets in, followed by a near guarantee of REM sleep. “It’s what I want, hurry and buy.” Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“We have a lot of old vine cab,” says Marty Clubb, which indeed drives the machine, but there no real reason to name that on the label. Minimum age is 30 with many over 50 for a 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, all picked in October. Rich, viscous, unctuous and most important – experienced. Chalky and the barrel brings both good dark chocolate and dusty espresso to the finish. Age this five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The highest level for merlot has Bordeaux Right Bank in mind and here the mix of windblown loess topsoil and basalt takes the grape up to where great minds and ambition want to meet. Huge fruit vintage, thick as thieves with structure twice pointed and the overall result is a big and cellaring potential merlot. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

With La Leggenda, Ange Aiello

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Less than 2,000 cases are made of the three vineyard (Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Ferguson) sourced cabernet sauvignon. Here comes the Cassis and herbal-savoury note with dried fruit moments red to purple and finally an impressive set of varietal meets site(s) circumstances. Averages out at 35 percent new wood and yes the fruit receives the wood with open arms. Long and age-worthy, longer than the merlot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’Ecole No. 41 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Proprietary Red 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The 31st vintage of Apogee. From the central part of the valley where cool air seems to be blowing through at all times. Heat accumulation is lower, hang time longer and the site is picked in late October, just ahead of the first frost. Planted in what would a millennium ago have been wher there were ice age flows. This is 56 percent cabernet sauvignon, (28) merlot, (12) malbec and (4) cabernet franc. The site tends – to more leather-tobacco and here it is also horse saddle noted which is Bordeaux in mimicry. The soil derived from ice age flows is what we extend in belief as being the reason. Why not? Serious character and complexity, finest tannins of the estate’s Bordeaux reds and from 2020 likely a 15 year run to come. Maybe longer. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A proprietary name imagined by Martin Clubb’s father-in-law to explain site which is at high elevation on the south side of the valley planted in 1980. The soil is 15 feet of wind-blown loess sitting atop another 15 feet of ice age flow. Extended maceration is the treatment for this proprietary blend which is composed of the free run portion of the juice because both the cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot showed hints of smoke taint. Perigee incidentally is the closest spot in the moon relative to the earth. A super moon in lay-person’s terms. The blend is 54 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (12) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Rich and smouldering, thick black currant almost syrupy but so high in glycerol and what impresses but also harmonizes this red is its sweet and bracing acidity. Makes the smoulder unimportant though it will always be there in the shadows. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The basalt vineyard with hardened-fractured, three-dimensional cube of rock that breaks or fragments to the touch. Also iron rich clay and this is the only place in Washington State with soil like this. The third of three estate proprietary reds that buds early and are picked late. Grapes are thick-skinned and the conversion rates mean rich fruit, high acidity and length. Blend here is 59 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (7) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Picks at an acidity level off the charts and then settles so that pH is low, but not crazy low. First vintage was 2011 and believe it or not Phylloxera was found in the vineyard. New plantings are helping to keep things moving swimmingly along. Rich berries of three colours, dusty meets chalky tannins and all the dark chocolate and espresso of great and fine ilk. Huge wine and that’s exactly what it wants and is surely touted to be. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“What’s the sense of changing horses in midstream” and so syrah is poured last, with 1+2 percent grenache and mourvèdre. Some stem addition (20 percent at the bottom of the totes) to make sure a bit of Mediterranean black olive and caper note slide on in. Black pepper necessity and more barrel than some but well integrated and no doubt also seasoning to add more of what skins and stems have already given to the fruit. A sanguine note, hematic streaks, blood on the tracks. Spicy and fulsome, a very substantial syrah that like the Bordeaux reds will also age quite well. Acumen and top vineyards ensure this will be. Syrah, you’re a big girl now. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

The Cellar at Woodward Canyon

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard

Family owned, by Rick and Darcey Small. Selena Kritsonis runs hospitality and husband Sager Small is vineyard manager. Kevin Mott is the winemaker. 8,000 cases in total

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, Washington State

First planted in 1978, barrel effect dialled back over the years, now 20 percent new wood and no malolactic whatsoever. All estate fruit with the newer (north facing, refreshening) block planted back in 2011. Pretty spot on classic ode to the motherland style that sees ripest fruit without freshness limitations meeting just enough wood for softness, creamy texture and overall Washington State high caste ubiquity. Truly proper and correct for sense of place and intendment. Vague impression of sweetness says quite a bit about fruit quality and style. The length is impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Estate fruit at the western edge of the Walla Wally Valley, two blocks used, 25 year-old Clone 3 old vine and also the younger Clone 181. The most western vineyard in the AVA, drier and warmer, a climate as much akin to red Mountain as it is to the Blue Mountains area of the WWV. Warm and dry vintage, lower than average yields and nearly 50 percent new wood, French and Hungarian. Pushing 15 percent alcohol yet holding both that and the wood with esteem. Aromatically spicy, dusty fennel pollen, tannins as well. Fine acids and chalky like so many, especially from vineyards west of this valley. Two-toned in all these respects, cooler herbal Amaro notes meeting warm and developed richness. Lots of ganache on the back end of this wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #29 2020, Washington State

Flagship wine from vines averaging 35 years with each label painted by a different West Coast artist. The vineyards are four-fold; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor, Weinbau and Wallula Gap. Nearly 40 per cent new wood, French and American, actually cab-dominant (76 percent) with other Bordeaux grapes involved. The rest are (12) petit verdot, (5) cabernet franc, (4) merlot and (3) syrah. Shows less wood than the merlot and more variegate red fruit. Also more espresso and less chocolate because the red berries really stand apart. Something candied comes late, like cinnamon hearts meeting reduced balsamic. Would match well with flank steak and chimichurri with slow roasted aubergines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines 2020, Washington State

Originally called “Dedication Series” and first made in 1981. Oldest cabernet blocks are chosen from three vineyards; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor and Weinbau. This sees 100 percent new French wood and just three percent each petit verdot and malbec bring grip and spice to the cabernet. So much wood to integrate, melt and assimilate before a wine of this luxe nature and fullest concentration can pour with any real charm and grace. Huge fruit and creaminess, The 1972 Sagemoor fruit (equivalent to Bacchus for other producers) is the experienced anchor and overall the wine does act out as a heritage passion play with age-worthiness at the highest level for the estate. It’s unctuous and thick, again in delivery of that vague impression of sweetness though that number is not listed on the technical sheets. Those who love the fullest of full cabernet sauvignon should keep this in their hearts along with any number off much higher prices iterations from Napa Valley. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery

Casey McClelland is the founder, of Celtic roots (thus the logo). 1980 planted founding vineyard, established winery in 1988, was originally setup in Milton-Freewater (in Oregon). Moved into the Whitehouse Crawford Building in Walla Walla in 2000. #5 winery in WWV. Yvonne Davis is the tasting room manager. Purchased in 2016 by Crimson Wine Company. Winemaker Bobby Richards is the Washington Organization Winemaker (WOW), overseeing both Seven Hills and Double Canyon.

Yvonne Davis, Seven Hills Winery

Seven Hills Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A little bit of everything adds up to a complete and straightforward package of sauvignon blanc that’s as crisp and sapid as it is predicated on fruit. Clean and tidy, ideal as correct would be from and for a desert climate. Chill well is the operative phrase to make this stand out and satisfy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Rosé 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A Rosé of cabernet franc splashed by malbec and petit verdot for what is about as much clean flavour to come from the combined grapes and this valley as you are ever going to find. Currants and tart cherries, sweet Genovese basil and just a perfect crabapple. This is spot on Rosé with red citrus running through even vein and artery of a wine of pulchritude and toothsome bite. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The word on merlot perpetuates because you know the mention in “that movie” and while many characters in Walla Walla make mention of it, well frankly merlot is terrific in this AVA. Especially when it’s made with the fruit-centric, spice cupboard and graceful restraint as it is by Seven Hills. Do you even notice the wood? Not nearly or so much and everything about the grape, including its smooth state of being and gracious personality are captured, in fact doubly so from the warm and dry vintage. Don’t drink f-in merlot you say? Drink this you ignorant perpetuator of stereotypes. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2018, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Rock star vintage. Someone up above or below gave you great grapes and said don’t mess it up. Gotta say that the pedigree established by Casey McLelland down through all the winemakers and team at Seven Hills have figured out how to do much more than not screw up. Forget about the name of the variety for a while, close you eyes and taste this wine. Plush and ripe, all those dusty and chalky elements shaken, not stirred and emulsified like few other. Now concentrate and exult the name, say it aloud and tell the world. Seven Hills knows and does merlot. Really darn well. Bloody ‘ell this is delicious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Owned by the Crimson Wine Company, along with Seven Hills Winery, winemaking overseen by Bobby Richards. Blends fruit from two appellations, Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills for a truly two-toned cabernet sauvignon as fruity as it is sweetly herbal. Cassis and Amaro, balsamic and caramelized fennel, flavour compounds running amok, hither and thither. Nothing black fruit thickness and wood make-up about it here – just fruit, great acid, haute grip and medium bodied goodness. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Back in 2018 just two years after this brand became part of the Seven Hills world there was only HHH fruit from the hills where wild horses did once upon a time run free, including through the vineyards. Important and quintessential vintage for this part of the Columbia Valley’s reds, well pretty much anywhere in eastern Washington. Cassis still persists, as do sweet herbals and savoury elements, less brushy than Walla Walla, now silkened and smooth. Grip has dissipated and the cabernet might still show a bit of chalky tannin but it is drinking right in the heart of its window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Pentad 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

For Seven Hills all rules and roads lead to Pentade, “the sum of five,” narrowed down from six, carmenère included in 2020, not cabernet franc. Always cabernet sauvignon dominant, label designed by Ian Boyden, paint made holistically from minerals, alloys and metals. Grace under pressure, richness without rush, no hesitation and confidence throughout. Important and audited acids, fruit auditioning for tannin that controls but like a parent for all the nurturing reasons. Noteworthy for its stage presence and deft abilities to impress without ego. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Signature varietal wine, for all it’s meant to be and for reasons that matter in every profound way. Not quite as rich and fortified as Pentad but equally grippy and of fine karst to bone structure, both by bright acids and trenchant tannins. Cassis reduced and herbs sweetened like no other wine in the portfolio. Top vintage for this wine. Truly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The “distribution” cabernet sauvignon, as opposed to the high-end signature Seven Hills Founding Vineyard iteration, here a year younger and from a more challenging vineyard. Makes for high caste aromatics if neither the concentration, acumen or confidence of the SHFV. Teaching varietal wine, epitomizing vineyard fruit, health and estate style. Everything that cabernet sauvignon should and shall be for SHW and why decisions have been made for these positive consequences to follow. Proper and satisfying. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

House of Smith

Charles Smith grew up in Sacramento, one of 6 children. Went to Copenhagen with his girlfriend, booked and managed bands, most notably The Breeders of Denmark. Moved to Bainbridge Island, opened a bottle shop. Came to Walla Walla and he met the OG winemakers, borrowed equipment and was gifted some grapes. K Vintners K Syrah was born in 1999, 230 cases, was given a 250,000 loan form the bank, House wine with Costco was created and sold two years later to Precept wines. Then the came Charles Smith wines, five labels including Kung Fu Girl, 10 years went past, sold to Constellation Brands for 124 million dollars, name was changed to House of Smith and the rest is history.

Substance Sauvignon Blanc Sb 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Just 10 per cent barrel fermented seems insignificant when you consider the amount of tropical fruit ripeness on this sauvignon blanc. Fresh and clean, zesty and though that fruit is healthy and luxe, the wine is also linear. The right stuff people. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Chardonnay Ch 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Minor yet significant barrel addendum for what is again seriously ripe Columbia Valley fruit making for almost indiscriminately edible chardonnay you can’t help but ruminate and chew. Fulsome, light butterscotch and an unexpected salve dissolve upon then palate. Natural feel. What’s happening here? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Moxee 2019, Washington State

Moxee is the name of the vineyard, a high elevation site in the Columbia, near to the Yakima Valley. the Charles Smith team is looking for acids and mineral, less butter and essentially a Burgundian feel. Nine months in concrete and nine more in 20 percent new wood. Barrel reduction as flint but also minor sulphide yet to integrate or blow off, some butterscotch but the elements and minerals do well to harmonize acids sweet enough to mimic and carry the fruit. Good intentions but 18 months of elévage can’t help but hide site more than it should. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Frenchman Hills 2019, Washington State

Right next to Stoneridge Vineyard at 1,650 feet of elevation, cooler, frost free, nine months in concrete and a further nine months in 21 percent wood. Yes Sixto is a reference to Sixto Rodriguez who was lost to the world on August 8th. A story of renewal, second chances and regeneration, a.k.a. vines planted back in the 1970s by Château Ste. Michelle, abandoned and resurrected by Charles Smith. More than technically old vines, much higher acid than the Moxee, still rich of vintage fruit but this one bites, piques and attacks with white peppery jolts. This is an exciting wine to drink while watching Searching for Sugarman. Serious quality in old vines chardonnay. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Rosa Hills 2019, Washington State

Sees the most French wood after nine months in concrete and so expect more butterscotch and golden pineapple, compounded as a result of lower elevation in the Yakima Valley. No doubt the most complete and developed of the three single site chards, no apologies and in Rosa’s case none necessary because varietal nirvana in the style is acceded. “In the sun, in the sun, Mary.” Driving chardonnay, rising slowly, incrementally, resinous and substantial. Weightier, bass drum and line, droning in the end. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Pinot Noir Pn 2021, Washington State

Of 200 acres planted nine years ago the intention was to make a single block pinot. Syrah makers were in charge and so the learning curve was heavy and long. Seven years later this entry level pinot noir brings ripeness, that much is clear but also vanilla-lavender ubiquity. The use of Evergreen Vineyard fruit does bring extra pop and oomph because syrupy savour and vinous character needs some infiltrate lift. Works fine if with noted make-up and overworking involved. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

CasaSmith Sangiovese Cinghiale 2021, Wahluke Slope AVA

In 2013 Charles Smith began working with North Ridge Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA where barbera and primitivo are also planted and they too came with the contract. Rosebud Vineyard (88 percent), and (12) Wahluke Slope. Eight months of neutral oak, Vino de Tavola style and concept, fresh, crunchy, “scorreviole,” as it must be. Fine work, representative of northern exposure, glug-glug, really respectful and well made. Shocked that it comes away away at 15 percent alcohol. No heat, so bravo to the team. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Cs 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Pulled from nine different vineyards and this is House of Smith’s wine that keeps the light on. Hums and grooves like a 1970s vibe, Marc Boland’s T-Rex to be exact. Some sweetness and also volatility but both are the kind that make a consumer feel like they are tasting something complex and upscale when really what’s in the bottle is a $14 Costco wine. No matter because it’s Neo-varietal cabernet sauvignon that the masses should choose above critters and California reds with 24 grams of residual sugar. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

K Vintners The Creator 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A three pound bottle. Why? “Charles wanted to make a statement.” He also wanted to make something new from the state of Washington, not that cabernet-syrah has never been done, “but not to the extent that this team set out to do. From Powerline Vineyard in the Walla Walla, cabernet sauvignon at 73 percent with (27) syrah and the fine thing about this blend of moderate (13.5 percent) alcohol is finesse and powerful restraint, a Killers wine that “doesn’t look a thing like Jesus.” There’s only one creator and Charles Smith is not they, but this wine so reminds of classic Western Cape Blends where the most ancient geology gifts this earthy, reductive and savoury character. This is a very good red blend in spite of the sustainably egregious heavy bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines

Non-profit offering financial support for vineyard workers. Everything is donated, including the grapes. Ashley Trout is the founder, winemaker at Brook and Bull. All tasting room staff are volunteers so thank you to Renée and Thomas for donating their time and knowledge.

Vital Wines Rosé Valdemar Estate Seven Hills Vineyard 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with grapes grown and also winemaking donated by Valdemar Estate, of 80 percent mourvèdre and (20) syrah. Lots of spice here, candied aromatics too, not a shock considering the dominant grape and the tart fruit gains your immediate and keeps attention. Tastes like Rioja Rosado, oddly enough. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Given 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Four-part Rhône-ish blend, based on 60 percent syrah with (25) grenache, (13) mourvèdre and (2) cinsault. The blend changes every year and so the donations are also in flux. Major spice, a cupboard full dominates the aromas, namely cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, all dusty and soaking in balsamic. Sensing American oak as if Rioja in style though the grapes all harken the Rhône. Chock full of flavour and relatively easy drinking with fruit both dark and floral. Whatever tannins were involved have fallen away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fruit is donated from The Rocks District in the southern Walla Walla AVA, basaltic cobbles that do syrah like no other terroir on earth. It’s really true that only The Rocks scents syrah like this, meaty and Rotundun peppery but also a speciality of flowers that simply do not come from anywhere else. A varietal-place sensation like sangiovese from Lamole in Chianti Classico, a perfume that is the place. “What can I get you?” Syrah on the Rocks, please.” Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Made with fruit donated out of the Red Mountain AVA and there is no real shock to feel the warmth, thickened stew consistency and shaken texture. Full, oaky and designed for those who like it big and unctuous with just a bit of sweetness in their cabernet sauvignon. Very much southern Washington in style, chock full of flavour if not the most finessed iteration off of Red Mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Visionary 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Bordeaux blend from grapes donated out of the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard farmed by Seven Hills Winery, among others. Led by 60 percent merlot, with (27) cabernet franc, (12) petit verdot and a splash of cabernet sauvignon. First vintage with the proceeds going toward eye exams and glasses for vineyard workers who are unable to afford them. Quite the aromatic and also classic Walla Walla blend, thick, viscous and buoyed by pretty impressive acidity. Coffee, dark berries, lavender, graphite, dustiness, balsamic and a merlot-ness that is truly AVA dictated. Well made considering the grapes donated are always in flux and most of the wines are a first kick at the can kind of experience. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rotie Rocks Vineyard

Rôtie Cellars

Sean Boyd moved here in 2003, started the Rotie Rocks Estate winery in 2007, with no distribution. Only selling from the cellar door and in Seattle. Originally a geologist working in oil and gas, from Tacoma. Was the winemaker at Waters, fell in love with the Rocks District in Milton-Freewater at the confluence of Washington and Oregon. Property had been devoted to red delicious apples which were subsequently ripped up and planted to Rhône varieties, modelled after Beaucastel. Six square (5.9) mile sub-AVA and essentially the only American AVA with just one soil type. Each year a new vintage of the Northern and Southern red and white blends are released, one a “rounded trifecta” of grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre, the other a play on that other threesome, viognier, marsanne and roussane.

The Rocks (District) at Milton-Freewater

Rôtie Cellars Southern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Half viognier with (30) roussanne and (20) marsanne, more than estate vineyards with some Blue Mountain foothill area viognier and roussanne coming in form that cooler clime. Partially barrel-fermented, minty cool, green eggs and ham fantasy, essentially dry so if there is a gram, that sweetness does little to effect the blend. Sapid white, neither tropical nor searing but somewhere comfortably in between. The barrel ferment on the viognier does induce longan fruit with a douse of marsanne lime that extends the flavours over a good length of time. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Southern Blend 2022, Washington State

A take on southern Rhône G-S-M with acid addendum and zest from cinsault. Somewhere in the vicinity of 60 percent Rocks District fruit with the remainder coming from the gorge that separates Washington from Oregon. The vineyard is literally on the river’s edge. A good portion is put into concrete (large cube) fermentation for 25 days, followed by neutral wood. That grip just has to be The Rocks but also a rush or whoosh of flavour that seems so very Gorge relatable. Curious metal motion mineral country twang, somewhat of a Chris Stapleton meets Lucinda Williams punchy anxiety that can’t help but grip the palate. Meaty, charred nightshade finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2022, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

The Côte Rotie mimic with five percent Viognier co-fermented with two different clones of syrah. Sees 15 percent French oak and is really the only Rôtie wine that sees some new wood. Agriculturally speaking it is the method of goblet head-training that makes for more efficient use of sap flow while fruit at 24 inches above the ground concentrates power. Also with winter help by “stoning up” from the basalt is The Rocks’ version of burying canes. Here a cobblestone cause and effect, of iodine, potassium and uranium, three pillars of these rocks that deliver wet stone, struck flint and balsatic tapenade. That crusty black olive sensation doubles down on aromatics and then the palate with shocks to the system like jumping across power lines in fits of sparking light. Impressive work here. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Rosé 2022, Washington State

Namely syrah with (15 percent) mourvèdre but the free run can’t come from more than an hour of skin contact because this is pale as it gets Rosé for syrah. Nearly vin gris, salty as F and purposed grown but also that acidity with the mourvèdre coming from The Gorge. Another sku is made with grenache called Stonewall Rosé that supports LGBTQ programs. Whistle as you sip this back because it delivers a one-two coordinated cool savour-grip punch. You can age this. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Apposite to the Rhône with 60 percent roussanne and (40) marsanne, all about yellow flowers and texture, lemongrass sabayon and basaltic saltiness. This speaks as much about Etna Bianco in terms of volcanic saltiness as it does Rhône varieties so c’mon – this is all about The Rocks, right? This is the launching point for the whites of this place, even while syrah, grenache and mourvèdre are the true signatures. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Big G Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2020, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

Just the second vintage of the grenache from the Olives Vineyard back away from the Rocks district, just recently planted in 2015 now coming into play, likely real soon to be what will be talked about as “into it’s own.” Concrete ferment and used puncheons, unadorned, red fruit high caste and naked as the day a grape is born. Crystal clear transparency, and while many would wonder what drives this crystalline wine, the fact is concentration and power, not to mention depth are all in play. Don’t be fooled, this is indeed a glass of raw meat and red flowers. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Dre 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

From the benches or “cliffs” of Wallula Vineyard, depending on who you talk to, of naturally formed terraces with elevation changes along and above the river’s gorge. The Boomerang Block produces mourvèdre and it is a seriously dramatic place. Doctor my eyes this Dre is somewhere between America’s premier (male) singer songwriter and the OG Hip Hop man, from both of which there are no artists not influenced by one or the other. Exaggerations are key to making sure people understand the uniqueness and potential of future iterations of a varietal wine that one day may just blow your mind. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Bubbly Rosé 2021, Washington State

Not from any particular AVA, “just for fun, don’t overthink it.” Traditional method has been done here but this is forced carbonation (as in Charmat) method, all about the peaches and herb. Peach iced tea and just bloody delicious juice. That’s all folks. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Grenache Blanc 2021, Washington State

From the Olson Vineyard owned by Prosser in the Yakima Valley, also pulled by Gramercy. Made in a sharp, high acid, zesty lemon and lime style. Fresh, extremely refreshing that turns a bit tropical with weight at the finish. Apricots and nectarines after that zesty citrus. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Winemaker Kate Derby, Spring Valley Vineyard

Spring Valley Vineyard

Washington State is rife with winerys and locations as unique to one another as anywhere in the world but Springfield Valley Vineyard is a universe unto itself. It may be Walla Walla Valley but the drive in and out is akin to riding shotgun in the Rover tumbling over and through a lunar landscape. The winery and vineyards are an oasis on the bright side of the moon and a harvest party setting next to the massive weeping willow is something to experience. Winemaker Kate “Crushinit” Derby is the granddaughter of Spring Valley Vineyard owners Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby and great-great-granddaughter of Spring Valley founder Uriah Corkrum. In 1993, Shari and Dean Derby planted the first grapes at Spring Valley and their first vintage was 1999. Derby works closely with Serge Laville and Carlos, longtime ranch manager. In the summer of 2007, 66 acres of new vineyards were planted. Today, Spring Valley Vineyard consists of 111 acres of grapevines including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, and malbec.

With Carlos and Kate at Spring Valley

Spring Valley Vineyard Viognier 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A short stay in barrel lends a lees creaminess to what is ostensibly true mineral stage presence for a viognier essentially borne out of a veritable oasis in the midst of a grand desert. Healthy alcohol just under 14 percent that integrates and balances within the overall master plan filled with fruit, salinity, fresh flowers, sapidity, botanical tonic and gentle bitters. A subtly exotic beauty, understated and if viognier could be expressive of humility then this by Kate Derby and team is just that. A joy to be around. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Frederick Red Wine 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Ode to Frederick Corkrum born in Spring Valley in 1900 to Katherine and Uriah. Classic Bordeaux blend and traditional (SVV) styling based on cabernet sauvignon with merlot and cabernet franc, aged for up to 30 months in barriques, stainless steel and neutral 500L puncheons. Notably warm growing season results in a mature, gently oxidative, well-seasoned and fully reasoned red as nurturing and easy to sip as it is polished, calming, non-plussed and refined. Always the tobacco and dry-brushy native plants mixed with dark fruit and a local savoir-faire that is unmistakable. Gentle giant of a red blend clearly made by this undulating corner of the Walla Walla Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Katherine Corkrum 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Varietal cabernet franc, 100 percent, named in honour of Katherine Corkrum, wife to Uriah, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897. She and Uriah had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum. Current winemaker Kate Derby is current generation Katherine and there’s just this feeling that KD and CF share an affinity for one another. The silken quality of both the fruit and tannins align to keep this 2017 living, breathing and gifting no matter the maturity or advanced nature of its present state. Acidity was and still persists as a catalyst to lift and carry the notions of Walla Walla, but more importantly the varietal Spring Valley Vineyard site. This is cabernet franc that tells you to slow down, smell the roses and sip without any rush at all. Make this glass and that bottle last. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Brooke and Justin Neufeld

Yakima Valley

JB Neufeld

J and B, Justin and Brooke, partners who produced their first vintage in 2008. The Yakima Valley is the state’s oldest AVA and says Justin, “in my opinion the most diverse terroir.” Especially for cabernet sauvignon and “by focusing on one variety is forces me to concentrate on the nuances of sites.” For Neufeld this means the Rattlesnake Hills and the upper valley.

JB Neufeld Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Straight away and without any doubt Justin Neufeld’s is bloody delicious sauvignon blanc. Aromatic enough, hopping on the palate, creamy mouthfeel yet sharp and clearly optimum of ripeness. Harmonic and long, fresh, clean and a finale with a lovely sweet herbal push. Impressive for grape and state. The 2020 was the first (at 250 cases) and 2022 is the third vintage, of 600 cases. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

“I want the Yakima Valley cabernet sauvignon to be a gateway wine,” explains Justin Neufeld. “A solid introduction to our style and friendly to many palates.” Here he makes use of lots of upper valley fruit for a variegated aromatic representation of the entirety of the Yakima. Some merlot here to help soften the overall expression and temper cabernet’s inherent austerity. Getting roasted nightshades in eggplant and red pepper, a lighter or subtle Cassis aspect, richness without thickening and luxury though never density. Truly proper Yakima Valley and by extrapolate extension, Washington State cabernet. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval 2020, Red Mountain AVA

A wine that is evolving into a blend with increased amounts of merlot and petit verdot because Red Mountain’s cabernet sauvignon is more austere and gritty than that of the upper Yakima Valley. Then again it’s all about Justin Neufeld’s “feel” in any given year. Classic Red Mountain and clearly JB’s biggest wine, especially on the palate where structure and specifically tannins come in thick waves, more balancing Kelvin than monster rogue. The chalkiness is indeed of an unctuous type and the approach here is spot on, maximizing fruit without barrel or aggressiveness getting in the way. No faults, nor VA nor Brett neither, no distraction or misguided orientation. Some native ferment involved but not in any early inducing secondary or tertiary potential. This is piloted cabernet sauvignon, make no mistake, insured and respectful, harmonic and solid. The backing vocals are very important, reminiscent of the Rolling Stones if more Bernard Fowler than Mary Clayton, which puts Ciel Du Cheval in less raw, more contemporary cabernet sauvignon times. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023.

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld The Old Goat 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Fruit taken entirely from Red Willow Vineyard located as far west as you can get in the Yakima Valley AVA, up against the Cascade Mountains. A true child of the rain shadow effect and compacted soils layered atop with volcanic ash originally spewed out by Mt. Saint Helens. In fact this is the only place in the state where this exists, in several layers, including material from the 1980 eruption. So much more than the (Mongolian) loess that has blown in to the east and through much of the Yakima. There is a charming aromatic set of tar, tobacco and ash notes, again those charred nightshades and here some balsamic reduction. The quality of the fruit has much to do with the combined acumen of OG grower Mike Sauer, his son Jonathan and the collaboration with MW David Lake. Their first vintage together was 1979, the year they met. This Old Goat is not “an elderly man who is disliked, especially for being mean to or disapproving of younger people,” but is in fact a big red, high in acid and of greater structure than the other Valley cabernets made by the Neufelds. The blend is 67 percent cabernet sauvignon with (33) merlot, just recently released. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates

Fourth generation, all in the Yakima Valley, now with 130 acres of grapes, 20 different varieties grown, the agriculture dating back to 1907. In 1968 the family began growing grapes, one of the first pioneer commercial wineries and the first vintage was 1971. Was purchased back for $1by Lloyd Miller who was an aviator in WWII. Marcus Miller is current generation and winemaker (with Travis since 2017).

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Pinot Gris Estate Grown 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Fresh and clean, baking soda nose, easy, herbal, pear and direct. Palate brings the stone fruit, yellow-green aromatics and pretty much essential Yakima Valley pinot gris. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Really warm days with thankfully cool nights maintains freshness and knowable Washington acidity of a side palate up and down attack. Green herbs, gooseberry and a cut grass moment or two. Handsome, muscular yet not too taut and all in all very proper. A varietal workhorse exemplary for Yakima and Washington. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Rosé of Sangiovese 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

More than interesting use of sangiovese for a place where not too much Rosé is produced and quite aromatic at that. Red citrus, high acid cherry and pink grapefruit, some RS and plenty of fruit that indicates a full’s day run and a grape relationship with great red potential. Almost Cerasuolo in style – from elevation, cool nights and high level interest. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Merlot 2021, Yakima Valley

“A super interesting vintage and not in a good way,” tells Alexandra Lafontaine, “because it was cool in eastern Washington. But the grapes hung longer and escaped smoke-taint free.” True and yet there’s just that back palate char showing up, though the rest of the soft, nurtured and silky parts are highly credible and important to distinguish merlot for the Yakima Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Syrah 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Great meaty, iodine and crusted earth nose for a syrah cold soaked for 17 hours, on skins 13 days. Dual inoculation, 15 percent new wood, aged 11 months in assorted French vessels. Truly syrah with a minor amount of palate sweetness while the acids are solid and the balance well struck. Smoked meat finish with extinguished tobacco and roasted nightshade char. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Syrah 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Clearly a step up from the Lone Birch on all fronts though not as noticeably meaty and earthy on the nose. Still a smokehouse smoulder but this falls into demure character without needing to be recognized as immediately one thing or the other. Fruit is deeper and feels more macerated though this is anything but a luxe and connected vintage. Wood also more in charge and yet not far away, meeting well with vineyard fruit (next to the famous Boucher block) and sometime next winter this will begin to drink at its best. Last tasted August 2023

Extreme ripeness of syrah being, some meatiness and that kind of iodine meets sanguine quality but mostly fruit, more fruit and then that aforementioned notion, like rare roast beef. Delicious wine with a mineral streak, not overly complex but enough to bely a creeping towards and into jammy flavours. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted June 2023

Airfield Estates Runway 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Aviator ode red blend by way of a marketing perspective in 55 percent cabernet franc and (45) merlot though the blend will change from year to year with cabernet sauvignon often in the mix. Full on new wood at 85 percent but also a month of concrete to just elevate the freshness, if ever so slightly. Holds its wood quite well which is pleasantly surprising but it’s big, luxe and bold no doubt. Good buy – true Yakima Valley. Real discovery. Will be in November Classics, though only ten cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates J. Lloyd Miller 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Ode to the company’s founder in a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon with (22) merlot, (16) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. Signature, small production wine of 250 cases. Despite the warm vintage and obvious luxe styling there is grace, charm and lovely harmony in this wine. Sees 22 months in all new French wood, integrated beautifully and just about ready to go. Some 1968 planted vines are party of the fruit source. Silky smooth and there is absolutely no austerity or heat. No ego. It deserves to be well-rated and will surely be seriously pleasing to a discerning Bordeaux blend loving consumer. The quality is high and the winemaking prowess impressive. Coming out in a Classics release in March 2024, though only five cases. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Other wines tasted in Toronto, June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Arch Terrace 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Estate Vineyard in syrah that leans mineral and ferric like few others – in fact the elemental surge from Red Mountain soil is felt in the most thorough of palpable ways. The intensity keeps a palate mindful of place and though fruit is no slouch or second fiddle played, one can’t help but feel the earth move beneath this syrah’s feet. So bloody and a mouthful of powdery rocks. Just wow. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Signature Series Block 8 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Going back another season and into Block 8 for syrah with an ulterior example that delivers a blood orange and plum fruit combination, much more so than the Estate. Acids are sharp, tang is a major factor and this really hits the high notes. Great length as well though without the hematic and ferric swirls. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Va Piano Syrah 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Serious syrah business, thick, ripe and liquid chalky. Some tart edging and also mineral intensity but fruit is explosive and seemingly unrelenting. Big-boned and structured for what should be a long life ahead with a fleshiness that will not be denied. Intensity is off the proverbial charts for a wine of this kind of stature and price. Quite impressive and nearly ready to boot. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Good to go!

godello

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Visceral, volcanic Hungary

Jan8

Balaton

From almost any vantage point up on the Szent György-Hegy one can’t help but engage in the act of starting to smile and in a really subtle way. There’s a Hungarian word for that called elmosolyodik. Mosoly is the word for smile, but to elmosolyodni is something less obvious, usually reserved for something you don’t do right away, meaning you realize something is funny or heartwarming and so in the end you find yourself smiling. Taking the liberty here to make use of the abstruse word because no matter the moment, who could not smile when surrounded by these landscapes. From up aboard the majestic Saint George Hill and downward in descension the vistas are inspiring. They keep your gaze locked in tight as the vines (especially in mid-summer) spread out through villages and across to the shapes of other emerald volcanic hills that dot the peripheral horizons.

View of Lake Balaton from the peak of the Szent György-Hegy

Starting to write an article about any wine region is always difficult because while visiting said region is at the time a special experience, returning back to it months later presents a serious challenge to the intellect. The Lake Balaton region is no exception and so making headway might best be served by another usage of a Hungarian word. Here is where szöszmötöl seems to offer the best approach. The conjugated verb could be interpreted as “to do something lengthily and with uttermost care.” Sounds right up Godello’s alley and so what may begin with frustration, lack of initiative, or suffering from writer’s block will eventually somehow lead to being prone to szöszmötöl, that is to wax rhapsodic, not forever, but every once in a while. As in right now.

With Robert Gilvesy

Before continuing on it must be noted straight away that much of what will follow is thanks in full to the planning by WineAlign partner John Szabo M.S. and the Canadian-Hungarian architect-wine producer Robert Gilvesy. Gilvesy has made his home and last three decade’s of work on the Saint George Hill going back to the early 1990s. Behold a 2023 seasonal round-up message from Robert:

“Round and round and round we go, following the seasons, the cycles, and nature’s whims, and with this, finally our wines sleep. Our wines sleep, but they are alive, and they will greet you with the vibrance and life that you have come to know in our wines. 2023 was a season of changes and challenges, with great new faces on our team and high disease pressure in the vineyards. Since our inception in 2012, I do not remember a growing season with such intense downy mildew pressure, assisted by rains and humidity which started before flowering and stayed with us through the end of July. After being surprised with such early infections, and playing catch-up most of the summer we had ideal conditions from August through the end of a small but well-conceived harvest. Our reinvigorated crew performed marvellously, and we look forward to building with them in 2024. Pruning has started and we will continue through the winter of 2024. At the same time I will be visiting some very fine wine fairs: Haut les Vins, Paris and Haut les Vins, Düsseldorf, not to mention Alois Lageder’s SUMMA in April. Don’t worry, I will send out notices with details very soon should you like to visit. I would like to thank you all for working with us, and following not just our seasons, but how our wines have developed over years. Our love of our terroir, and our volcanic landscape has only deepened and so we will continue send you an honest, and natural expressions of this in our wines.”

Lake Balaton from the Szent György-Hegy

For four days at the end of July 2023 a small group of wine writers, including Godello traveled across Slovenia, originating in Collio, arriving at the Szent György-Hegy in the dead of night. Magyarórszág csapat, a.k.a. Team Hungary took to the volcanoes around Lake Balaton like ducks to water and dove headfirst into the wines from Balatoni, Badacsony, Szent György-Hegy, Csobánc, Káli Basin and Somló. Mostly volcanic, all so very real, of grape varieties endemic to, suitable for and just plain native for these verdant hills. These are the notes on 65 wines tasted over those four fateful days in July.

Gilvesy Winery

Robert Gilvesy’s home and winery sit on a former Esterházy estate on the Szent György Hill. Mount Saint George is an ancient and little known volcanic butte in Europe’s Pannon basin. The Hegymagas-based facility and 13 hectares of vineyards are poised at this prime location in an area shaped by eight million year-old volcanoes that would have ceased erupting between four and five million years ago. The cellar was erected circa 1680 by the Lengyel family and was later part of the noble Esterhazy estate. In 2012, the renovation and modification was completed just in time for the 2012 harvest. All Gilvesy vineyards have been organically cultivated since 2014. Soils are eroded basalt and tuff integrated in Pannon loess, sand or clay. Varieties cultivated are riesling, furmint, olaszrizling and sauvignon blanc. The place is home to, as described by Gilvesy, “ancient, crumbling edifices, witness to a violent history, but now so bucolic, and natural.”

Gilvesy Brut Nature Méthode Traditionnelle 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Toasty as few other sparkling wines made from furmint are or really can be in Balaton. The first varietal harvest (of an overall vigorous and usually generous amount) is taken for the BNMTSGH in the first week of September. A late green harvest if you will, not about percentage but about properly thinning out the vines. The 2017 vintage saw to 3,000 bottles which is the ceiling “for the market.” Natural ferment, fine lees through March/April and then shipped off to Garamvári sparkling wine house. The subtle aspects of autolysis and aldehydes are shadows and mysteries, never rising to the surface or making themselves clear but you feel them gliding through air, following the layers of fruit, texture, truth and soul. Lovely bitters and tonics on the finish, just there and just right. In other words the terroir of Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Bohém Balatoni Cuvée 2021, Balatoni, Hungary

Robert Gilvesy’s Bohém blend no longer uses pinot gris (as mentioned in March) and tasting it four months later while looking out at Lake Balaton only romances the flavours and exults the wine. How could it not? The appellative excellence speaks to all the winemakers in the area and says it’s time. Time to join the party and make a white blend that represents estate. Last tasted July 2023

The blend in 2021 is olaszrizling (a.k.a. welschriesling), riesling and sauvignon blanc with pinot gris no longer involved. No doubt a botanical aspect ups the complexity game away and beyond the simple norms of white blends marked by citrus and stone fruit. They are in the mix but the herbal tonic and fine bitters elevate the cuvée to speak rightly and spritely for Balaton, the Szent György Hill and Robert Gilvesy’s oeuvre. This wine is an institution now and deserves plenty of attention. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Volcanic & Basalt 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Stainless steel and all wild ferment by way of a starter (Pied de Cuve) from the home-based Szent György-Hegy a.k.a. Mount Saint-George). No this is not the vintage of the century for Balaton but there is no doubt that sauvignon blanc is becoming one of his most consistent wines. A minty-herbal cool sensation and citrus distillate, concentrated and so well balanced for a pleasurable flavour profile while also inducing saliva to wish for more and more sips. An improved wine with the changes that begun in 2019 making for a much more complete example of sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Saba Szüretlén 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

The use of 15 percent whole bunch through fermentation (inclusive of three days of skin contact) on this next and ulterior level sauvignon blanc plays a prominent role and puts a positive spin on the Pixu. More than flinty reduction (which is incidentally low key) but mainly a matter of texture because the palate awakens with excitement, like a child bounding out of bed for Saturday morning cartoons. But such a crunchy wine can almost be heard as the palate swirls and bites down on the cracklings of the wine. Lemon pith finish reminds that this natural SB makes decisions of its own accord. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Olaszrizling 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Third vintage (2020 was skipped) for the olaszrizling of no maceration but the use of a really old 52L foudres and two German spiedl (concrete) eggs were employed and then…nothing much after that until bottling with only some sulphuring late when oxidation was sensed. Followed by a small amount, after not filtering, before bottling. And so the linear and vertical variety is turned textural, citrus preserved and chewy. Like savoury sour lemon chews rolled in ginger crystals. The petrol future will be like none you’ve ever encountered in olazriesling. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Furmint 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Vinification essentially identical to the olazrizling; that is large old foudres, two concrete eggs, minor sulphuring and no filtering. Yet furmint comes leaning and angling with more notable oxidative sways, golden hue, metallic moments, phenolic elasticity and early petrol emission. Feels like there is still some malolactic magic going on and the wine will be a vastly different animal six months to a year from now. Crafty little thing this furmint, acidity doing its thing and textural like lemon curd swirled into mascarpone. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Cross 19 + 21, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Two old barrels of furmint, one from 2019 and the other 2021 are put together, one because each orange segment needed a kick from the other and two because they were both stable ferments that could marry to make an even more stable union. This is delicious wine, no matter what it actually is or people perceive it to be. The idea of orange upon orange is Rothko-esque but truth is orange (the wine) is a primary thing and orange (the colour) is a secondary one, made by combining red and yellow, which is essentially what skin-contact wine happens to be. As for volatility it is at the edge but anyone who wants to win the argument that this is above and beyond is only fighting to win. In the end 19 plus 21 is forty. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Kadarka 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

First vintage form the vines’ third leaf planted right on the Saint-George hill. A vigorous variety, historically grown in Hungary but also certainly here, best produced in a light and bright style, picked ahead of its tendency to go jammy. Nothing here suggests that, nor oak-influence, nor heavy ambition neither. Just fruit, ih so natural and the aroma is the uncanny scent of watermelon (namely the rind). A convincingly pure kadarka so fruit driven, balanced and impossibly juicy. Hard to get simpler or more refreshing than this. Newsflash: Kadarka has a place on this mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Volcanic & Basalt Furmint Rajnai Rizling Olaszrizling 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Lake Balaton, Hungary

Co-fermented furmint and olaszrizling with other ferments of rajnai riesling mixed in, up to 50 percent oak on some of the furmint and in the end there are varietal layers but vintage is really what’s on display. Yet another appellative white blend that speaks to place and sure there is a specificity that a cool and balanced vintage brings but this style considers place more than anything else. Complex while much more finessed and precise than what might be imagined and also a joy to sip. Acid, layers of tart and taut, highly local fruit and boom – SGH incarnate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2021, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

The most straightforward, juicy and crunchy of Robert Gilvesy’s wines is this rizling of the Rajnai type. Dry style and luxe for the variety, lemon and lime plus an ideal vintage from which to capture the essence of this hill above Lake Balaton through the lens of the grape. Hard to imagine the wine with more energy and vitality than what 2021 has to offer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Nearly all the grapes come from different clones, blocks and harvests out of the Varadi Vineyard. Most of the vines were planted in 2014 and so it’s just amazing how by 2017 the vines were already getting into the Szent György-hegy groove. The location is down left or southeast from Csaba Török’s 2HA Estate terrace. There is no doubt that 2017 has developed into a fuller expression of rajnai rizling but also one leaving behind a vapour trail. Last tasted July 2023.

The immediate sensation is that of two-toned texture, like a faux sweet and savoury green apple creation, a bite through a crisp candied shell and then the creamy pulp inside. Two basalt vineyards, old Tarányi and young Váradi meet from off of the Saint George hill on lake Balaton. The palate delivers a snap of fruit and this mildly bitter tonic aridity and that variegation is due to staggered picking and stacking. In the end the alignment and balance find the first stages of fine accord. With greater experience more finesse is sure to come. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted December 2018

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Mogyorós 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Single vineyard on the north side of Saint George Mountain for a varietal wine but what the world needs to know about Robert Gilvesy’s sauvignon blanc is that it tastes nothing like any other. Matured in Hungarian wood, luxe, mature, rich and just plain exceptional. Full and layered with elderflower that creeps in and out with ascent that distracts while enhancing the yellow fruit. Must be tasted to be understood how unique this truly is and how it celebrates this volcanic hill. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Furmint Váradi 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Single vineyard furmint from the vineyard planted just five years earlier and so ready so quick, as with the rizling from the same place. Anyone who thinks they know furmint and also they who know nothing about the great Hungarian grape must have a moment with Gilvesy’s finessed and precise work that truly expresses what grape and place will conspire to create. Furmint is “well-acquainted with the touch of the velvet hand,” and Gilvesy’s is that hand. Like happiness, furmint is a warm gun and when treated to the volcanics of the Szent György Hegy it becomes the eighth track on the white wine album of the Balatoni. Special does not begin to describe this fantasy. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2023

Vineyards at Szászi Birtok

Szászi Birtok

Endre Szászi is one of the original winemakers of the Badacsony wine region. His family vineyard was established in 1999 with twp hectares, organic from the start, certified since 2003, now 20. Balontoni olazriesling is key, also grown in Zigliget and at the hills called Kesthely which are the Balaton Uplands where the soils mix with limestone. Main vineyards are here on the basalt hill and at Siglikat with other plots at Hajagos and Lesencetomaj, All wild fermentation, only bentonite for fining with filtration. Also natural wines, first Orange released in 2019. Daniel Friedrich is viticulturist and in charge of sales, amongst other things.

Szászi Birtok Zenit 2022, Badacsony

Zenet is a Hungarian crossbreed of bouvier and ezerjó, put to direct press, all parts in steel. Runs similar to sauvignon blanc and here a warm vintage with up to (one percent) higher alcohol than normal. Usually blended yet here we are – 13.2 in ’22, lemon zest big time and yet there is something about zenit that puts it in a l’acadie vein. Pick it on time and you get this low pH and high acid speciality. But the window is wider, up to 10 days. Crunchy and clean, a refresher that serves a great purpose. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Rozsakö 2022, Badacsony

Rózsakó translates as “rose stone,” a crossbreed made in the Balaton agricultural centre in the 1960s, between kéknyelü and budai zöld. The kéknyelü was the first mentioned variety in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so another variety must be grown nearby, thus budai sold. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only steel fermentation and aging, up to eight months. No miss in terms of acid and rózsakó is also aromatically gregarious. Lots of lime here and also phenolic grip. It was first accepted as a local appellative variety in 2002. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2022, Badacsony

Only 38 hectares total planted in the area of this local variety that Srászi also uses but in a crossbreed called rózsakó that sees the grape blended with budai zöld. More lemon drop with viscosity in a varietal wine that’s more about texture than the others. A warm vintage like 2018 and 2020 with high ripe fruit flavours and slightly lower acidity. Just a drinkable white wine in all respects, without distraction and finishing with the slightest amount of lovely pith bitters. The soils high in potassium make for high pH to give the sapid element and unctuous drift. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2019, Badacsony

Cooler vintage for the kéknyelü and considered a best or favourite for Srászi and likely in its best condition right now. Has developed something new, akin to petrol but very different than what happens in riesling or perhaps sémillon. A winemaker’s vintage and style, also now lemon creamy against the salty (especially as compared to 2022) backdrop and length is clearly more impressive. The caress is created by wood, 500L and none of it even close to new, some as old as 20 years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Szent György Hill Olaszrizling 2021, Badacsony

From eight hectares on the Szent György-Hegy (Saint George Hill), south slope facing the lake and every parcel is picked over two or three times. Top picks that is and the rest goes to the larger quantity white blend. Does not get cleaner and more crystal transparent, a popular wine found in many Budapest restaurants, easy to comprehend and less phenolic than riesling. Nothing fussy or precious, much like the grape itself and how it grows so easily. Neutral in a way but expressive and predicated on a squeeze of sweet lemon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Olazsrizling Szent György Hegy Rókaluki Vineyard 2021, Badacsony

From the vineyard just in front of the winery, rókaluki meaning “foxhole,” considered part of the Szent György-Hegy. Off of low-yielding vines and whole bunched pressed to restrict the phenolics which can spoil the wine with bitterness if left to its own devices. Next level richness but also intense juiciness with more colour and reduced citrus. Also sweet herbs here, basil namely but make no mistake the drink-ability factor runs equal if not higher to the cuvée of olazriesling. Almost tropical flavours but no botrytis involved. Clean, focused and precise from a wine that all wine savvy Canadians should know and get to love. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Blanc De Noir Brut Nature 2020, Balatoni

Made from pinot noir with no local appellative PDO and nearly all the sparkling wine made at small wineries are not traditionally labelled this way. Just 1,000-1,500 bottles made, first was from 2010, fruit picked late August in the Kesthély limestone hills. On the lees for six months in steel and transferred for two more years before disgorgement. Lovely in so many respects, without malo and just lemon creamy enough to create a true level of textural satisfaction. Really nice without saying too much and speaking softly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Nyerspezsgö (Brut Nature) Furmint 2020, Balatoni

Made from furmint but you can’t put it in on the label because still/table PDO wines have cornered the appellative market nor can it have a PDO or PGI working title because the wine is not bottled in the region. Ferment takes more time to settle in as bubbles so this raw example is still quite young. Autolytic and protectively, if gently oxidative, gingery and of downy feather feels. Quite fresh as compared to the pinot. More twist and torque, grip and circumstance. Disgorged in February of 2023 and so upwards of 30 months on lees like the pinot noir Brut Nature. Similar production number, of 1,000-1,500 bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Pet Nat Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Balatoni

Endre Szászi wanted to make a Rosé Pét-Nat and with no pinot noir to employ it was cabernet sauvignon as the next grape up. Planted in front of the estate, a half hectare and one more to the east, with some of the fruit (for 6,000 bottles) being made into still Rosé. Same picking time and fermentation with just a few litres or so (for 2,000 bottles) pulled off for Pét-Nat. “Quite popular at the lake,” tells Daniel Friedrich and it is only sold at the cellar door. Strawberry to cherry flavours, inexpensive, charming and simple fun. Low sugar too, at 3.5 g/L. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Csokászölö 2022, Balatoni

Csóka is a type of bird, literally “coot bird” but that does not tell us much. Actually a Jackdaw, in the crow family and the csokászölö variety is quite rare in Hungary, with only six family holding plantings. From the Szent György-Hegy, bottled as a varietal wine, hard to grow, not produced in every vintage, perhaps 60 percent of the time. Similar to kadarka, light, phenolic with some character traits that are shared with pinot noir. Makes 500-700 bottles per year. Sweetly fruity, gummy berry in a sense, 2022 ripe, playful and of a charming grace. An affinity with gamay, as far as the csóka flies. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Cserszegi Narancsbór 2022, Balatoni

A unique variety crossing between irsai-oliver and traminer, made into an unfiltered orange wine, spiced and spicy, salt and pepper seasoning, uniquely gastronomic. Amazingly clean, without faults, the furthest possible from acetic or bacterial. Just the right hit of tart and textured, terpenes involved, bright, perfumed and grounded. Made primarily for a partner in Korea, about as random as it gets but alliances can be forged between the strangest of bedfellows. It can be imagined as working well with Korean food where kimchi is involved. Sees seven months on lees, bottled by hand. It’s bloody delicious, acids are delicate yet properly arranged, unabashedly and honestly Orange. There were 2,000 bottles in 2022, a year where the (other Orange) Zeus was not able to be produced. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Csobánc hill

Villa Tolnay

Since 2004 Philipp Oser has been the owner and chief-winemaker of Villa Tolnay winery. Oser’s cantina is located at the foot of the Volcanic Csobánc hill and is actually the former residence of the famous Hungarian actress Klari Tolnay. Csobánc is one of the unique and peculiar monadnocks of Tapolca Basin, a coffin-shaped mountain befitting (especially) of riesling and olazriszling. Atop the grassy plateau there rests the ruins of Csobánc Castle and a 360 degree view can be had over the Balaton Uplands. While some volcanoes in the area have conical or pointed peaks but Csobánc, like Badacsony and Szent György-hegy bear a flat plateau. The soil and terroir at Csobánc is volcanic basalt soil with ancient Pannonian sea sediment, on 23 hecatres for cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, olaszrizling, pinot noir, rajnai riesling, sauvignon blanc and zold veltilini (grüner veltliner).

Villa Tolnay Zöldveltelini GV Grüner Veltliner Selection Balatoni 2022, Csobánc

A mix of a 50 year-old plot and a more recent (eight year-old) planting and some of that old fruit went into a premium bottling. Takes up to six harvests separated because of variable ripening. Over time it has made sense to bring all the picks, tanks and barrels together to make this selection. Phenolic, herbal and luxe grüner, lime douse throughout as a seamless account filled with fruit, basaltic tension, texture and grip. Finishes properly salty and long. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Olaszrizling Csobáncz Welschriesling Balatoni* 2022, Csobánc

“Even if olaszrizling is not considered a class “A” variety it can be a great expression of terroir,” says Philipp Oser and it should be added, in more than one way. If you compare to Steirmark this is picked a bit earlier but extracted to make it a be richer iteration – and yet find the 12.5-13.0 alcohol by volume sweet spot. The terroir is a mix of basalt and sedimentary layer of powdery white sand left over from the ancient Panonian Sea – brings that fine limestone acidity to the wines and they come out specifically salty. It’s the combination and yes, this begins rich and finishes lean and salty. Further away from Lake Balaton so cooler there and less humid following lower sun refraction as compared to the volcano vineyards down by the water. Class A or not this should never, ever by used to spritz it up. No fröccs from this olaszrizling. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Balatoni Rajnai Rizling Csobáncz 2022, Csobánc

From a vintage that was too dry and yet this entry into Villa Tolnay’s rizling does well to make a layered tripartite mix from purchased sandstone-soil fruit (south shore Balaton) mixed with Badascony (hill) and the Csobánc hill’s basalt. A lovely entry plus mid-palate middle weight grip of phenols and preserved citrus, well balanced between creamy and crunchy. Fruit and succulence work together for gratification and this easy glide down the gullet. No need for esoteric complexity but just enjoyment. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Csobáncz Rizling Rajnai Kápolna-Domb Balatoni *** 2020, Csobánc

Premium single rizling, varietal and vineyard, from the start an understood haute level of aromatic concentration with seamless transition to feeling the same coming off of the palate. Incidentally the “Z” is added to the hill’s name because of labelling laws and so it becomes a proprietary name from a monopole. Intensity of citrus from the chapel hill (Kápolna-Domb) with a nod to Burgundian philosophy. The two best (1200 and 1800L) casks are chosen for this top expression. Length to the top of the Csobánc and back down. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project NR3 Feat. Villa Tolnay Balaton 2020

A micro-négoce project where Roland seeks producers to bottle wines under the label and Hungary’s contribution includes Philipps’s two-part varietal wine – blending riesling and furmint, nearly half and half. “The idea is fTükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobáncirst of all, for us and for the region, the furmint could be the Panonain riesling,” tells Philipp. “I’m convinced here at lake Balaton, some great rieslings are being produced.” All estate selections, complimentary, especially after some bottle aging because the furmint fruitiness mixing with the riesling’s saltiness marry so well together. The salty and sapid elements are strongest, the fruit laying lower but it does create the mid-palate texture and structure. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Furmint Tükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobánc

Pure furmint from the two estate blocks, only separated by a small road, right by the cantina but considered a single vineyard wine. Certainly less aromatically expressive but the basaltic terroir is beautifully expressed like aligoté as it pertains to Bourgogne. Low pH and high acidity yet far from a scintillant sear with relatively neutral citrus and tart stone fruit. Compressed and confident. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Tenger Fehér Cuvée Weiss ** 2022, Csobánc

In Hungarian meaning “the sea,” Villa Tolnay’s white cuvée, for an audience that appreciates a white appellative style. Always 40 per cent-ish chardonnay withy rizling, olaszrizling and grüner veltliner. “With this wine we cover a much bigger surface,” says Philipp Oser. And still the mineral, basaltic terroir and winemaking acumen is shown. Never a cuvée of leftovers, a window into Philipp’s philosophy, experience and soul. Perhaps a Burgundian style with barrel fermentation involved with malo and lees for a creamy, quite getable and amenable style. Very lemon oriented, like Mâcon-Villages, seamless, balanced and much finer than expected. Would drink this everyday. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Furmint Méthode Traditionelle Extra Brut Balatoni 2020

A 24 months on lees sparkling furmint from the volcanic Csobánc hill. Young vines picked on point to make this delightful, expressive, fashionable and delicious bubble. Mousse is full, fruit matters and acidity meets salinity at a point to put this in great steading. Couldn’t be happier if there were other grapes involved because there is no need – the hill, the maker and the style all get together for quietly simple and energetic distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Borászat Winery

Káli Kövek Borászat Winery

Borászat means “winemaker’s” and Szabó Gyula is the winemaker of Káli Kövek Borászat Winery in the Káli Basin of the Balaton uplands. Most of his graoes come from the slopes of volcanic buttes made up of basalt fragments mixed with clay and brown earth. Structurally speaking the volcanic tuff and sedimentary rocks create soils of rich mineral and fossil content. A very Mediterranean climate with more than 2,000 sunshine hours yearly.

Káli Kövek Olaszrizling Rezedal PDO Válogatás 2022, Káli Basin

A varietal olaszrizling from the Káli Basin of terroir mixing volcanic origin with limestone. From winemaker Gyula Szabó. This doubles down on the saltiness like few other – a searing and dual-stony example that so reminds of aligoté in its most intense form. Perfect gateway entry into the grape and place. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Monoszló Jufhfark Pangyér Dülö 2022 , PDO Káli, Káli Basin

Just 1,000 bottles produced of this rare Hungarian variety for which five producers maximum take on, aged in Inox and wood. Growers’ fruit, 30 year-old vines, sour lemon character, intense and salty style, salivating and soliciting the need for more. Crunchy stuff, tart and maximum tang acceded. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Zôld Veltlini 2022, PDO Káli, Káli Basin

A grüner veltliner from the volcanic “black hill” estate grapes, 30-plus year-old vines harvested later, yet short of late to get into sweetness territory. Wild ferment, notable lees effect to counteract the basaltic saltiness and piercing quality shown with extreme direct hit by the olaszrizling and juhfark. Feels a miles away from Austria and surely the terroir trumps anything that grüner should be or at least for this sideways clone. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Furmint 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin

From the parcel (Dülö) called Kütfoi on the volcanic black hill (Halom-Hegy) in the village of Dörgisce and difficult to work with because the grape likes and tends to develop non-noble, as in the non-beneficial botrytis. A full mouthful of furmint that fleshes and develops before showing its stripes and mature charm. Most fascinating wine!! Develops an oily fatness with time to only increase the curiosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Köveskál Olaszrizling Fekete Hegy Töltés Dülö 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin

Varietal olazrizing from estate fruit out of the village of Köveskál and a parcel called Töltés Dülü on the volcanic hill of Fekete. Richer than the cuvée for sure with some next level aromas for one, of white to yellow blossoms, followed by tart white peach flesh. There is some fantasy with this olaszrizling, sharp, tart and built aboard lemon-lime citrus flavours. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Szentbékkálla Pinot Noir Rosé Oreghegy Dülö 2021, Káli Basin

A pinot noir Rosé fermented in barrel and no red was made so this is the only pressing of that fruit. Szentbékkálla (village) is the western part Öreghegy-Dülö of the black (Fekete) hill. Massive flavour from grapes destined for red wine, if not in the next vintage, surely the one after that. A 2021 Rosé of strawberry flesh and great acid intertwine that delivers such a satisfying stylistic experience. Fully formed in hue, aromas, flavour and finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Birtok

The winery’s origins (back in 1978) are a merger between two families, a barrel maker (József Laposa of the Laposa family from Budapest) and a winemaker (Eleonóra of the Barabás family from Badacsony). Located on the side of Badacsony hill making mostly white wines, working with traditional, local grape varieties. The biggest plots are in Badacsony, Csobánc and Köves-hill. Production is approximately 500,000 bottles a year with a focus on welschriesling, rhine riesling, pinot gris, kéknyelű, furmint and juhfark.

Laposa Pezsgö Habléany Anno 1888 Methode Charmat Balatoni Brut

Pure furmint, Charmat Method, green fig, creamy and them’s fighting acids to seek some balance. Refreshing, wine bar creative and serviceable with distinction. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Pino Szürkebarát Badacsonyi 2022

A multi pinot assemblage but from just one half hectare (of the gris) in Szürkebarát. The label’s Pi symbol is shown to represent all the different pinots. Simple and fresh, clean, quietly stainless steel reductive style through there are no flint or sulphide elements anywhere in the aromatic mix. Carries some fine bitters to give it just enough complexity to be more than just a simple sipping pi. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Kéknyelü Badacsonyi 2022

The kéknyelü was one of the first mentioned varieties in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so to pollinate another variety must be grown nearby, thus something like budai sold is used. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only 80 hectares exist and they are all here in Badascony. Fermented in steel, 70 per cent of which is sent to 35 hL barrels, bottled the spring after vintage. From two parcels on two hills, one being Basacsony and the neighbouring one. In better years they are separate bottlings but here they are blended. Semi-aromatic, buoyed by lees and tasting like preserved lemon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Olaszrizling 4Hegy Badasconyi 2022

Varietal olaszrizling from four hills, they being, harvested and fermented separately, put to four barrels. The flagship wine of the winery’s 30 hectares, here a mid-range olaszrizling. Surprisingly ripe and luxe example though the mid-palate does not quite keep up with the initial peach and longan beginning. Returns to form, acids stretch out the fruit and the finish carries forward. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Olaszrizling Kápolna Badasconyi 2017

From a single block on the Csobánc, a.k.a. the “chapel hill” (without the add-on Z because it is in the official appellation) and next to Villa Tolnay. Concentration, low-yielding single sites vines and of course age have conspired to bring this into a petrol-phenolic space where grip and unction coincide. There is some fine and taut spin to this olaszrizling, quite fine and precise to be sure. In the window now and should drink beautifully for two-plus further seasons. Lovely example of the grape from Badasconyi. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

With Csaba Török, 2HA

2HA

Csaba Török is the proprietor of 2HA Vineyard and Winery in the Badacsony wine region aboard the Szent György Hill on the north side of Lake Balaton. Török started with two hectares (thus the name)and is now cultivating a four hectare organic vineyard. One of the smallest operations and one that guarantees all the vines are farmed with special, personal treatment, further reflected in the wines that are produced. Csaba is a huge proponent of red varieties, including shiraz, merlot and sangiovese. This is clearly antithetical to most of the white wines made by producers on a number of basaltic terroirs but the future may just be red. One never knows.

2HA Olaszrizling Szent György Hegy 2022, Badacsony

From two of Csaba Török’s oldest sets of vines, bottled three weeks ago, harvested in late September, aged in old 225L barrels, malolactic always encouraged. No filtration and since the beginning (which was 2007) this is the way his wines have been made. Hard to find more texture captured and says Török, “this is my style, whether people like it to not. I don’t like the others.” To be honest there is something hypnotic about the energy in this olaszrizing, a buzz that you feel by tasting it. And this is the entry level wine because everyone raises this variety on the Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

2HA Pinot Gris “5” Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

A little bit of skin contact for the pinot gris, half a day maybe but Csaba Török likes this and would probably do more if there was room in his small press. If this aroma has ever come from pinot gris before it would be good to know where and when. Only 400 bottles (of a usual 2000) were produced because of a green harvest mistake and so imagine the high levels of acidity, ripeness, concentration and heterogeneity in the aromas, flavours and accents. It all comes forward and trips the palate with fantastic if unprecedented Basasconyi effect. Was harvested on the 15th of August, with alcohol at 13.5 percent alcohol and the most magical conversion rate in the place. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Pinot Gris Orange Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Skin contact but not all that long (less than 10 days), not long enough to truly get to Orange and yet that’s the name. Still the colour is truly candied or watermelon pink. Implosive and inwardly intense, layering within and upon itself with an almost pint noir character and sensibility that confuses the palate and the senses. How is this orange wine? In theory and practice perhaps but the result, effect and reality is something completely other. One of the most unique wines made anywhere in the world. Oh the fascination and the humanity! The changing climate does mean that its shelf life is diminishing (as proven by an August 15th pick) but for now the present is exciting. It’s all pinot in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Cabernet Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Labeled cabernet but it’s only cabernet franc and just proves that Csaba Török is a more highly evolved thinker than everyone else in the world. Smells precisely like franc or as it were, cabernet. Green in the best way, herbal in the sweetest matter and herbaceous as the savoury beast it needs to be. Wood is the spice and the accenting addendum, not the driver nor the star. Tar and char but fruit is the heart of the matter. Excellent and yet far from his best red wine work. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Shiraz Szent György-Hegy 2019, Badacsony

“Shiraz is a big challenge for me every year,” tells Csaba Török. “You have to catch it at exactly the right time.” Csaba feels this is a perfectly prime vintage and the style may be considered in a Swartland vein but dig deeper, concentrate and note the specific gamey-meatiness that’s much more Euro. The skins are not old man wrinkled and so the peppery spice and chalky underlay are more northern Rhône if you need to make a connection. This is blood sausage coagulation and iodine intensity from syrah called shiraz because it’s just another name. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

2HA Sangiovese Szent György-Hegy Tabunello 2019, Badacsony

A self-professed and yet clearly the sangiovese specialist aboard the Szent György-Hegy. A play on words with the nod more than obvious but the connection ends there. Tuscany maybe but Brunello? Not so much. The wood is 40 percent new and medium toast, the style high acid, sour edged and more than unique. Once again a look at a grape from a place that’s unlike anything else with very little reference point. Meaty like the shiraz and yet the acetic notions are voiced with varietal and local knowledge. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

2HA Merlot Szent György-Hegy Courage 2011, Badacsony

Called “Courage” because merlot needs nobility and saying that it makes this deserving of some praise. This was the second vintage and the last made by Csaba Török. After that it began to be blended with other grapes like the cabernets. A bit foxy and chalky but it has aged quite well, in fact it’s going strong with nary a true set of secondary circumstances. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

PAP Wines

PAP wines is a small biodynamic winery making self-professed “vins de garage” style wines. It was founded by Aron Molnár and Karina Vissonova, who cultivate 4.8 hectares of vineyards with biodynamic methods. Pap is located on the south and southeast slopes of Mount St. George (Szent György-hegy) and their credo reads as “our job is to bottle this truth.” Their small selection is up to 8,000 bottles, crafted with low intervention and containing very low to no sulphites and no additives. The wines are matured in oak barrels on lees, unfiltered at bottling. They specialize in pinot noir and a ‘Bazalt’ cuvée, szürkebarát (pinot gris) and olaszriszling, as well as kéknyelü, hárslevelü, szürkebarát and olaszriszling for skin-contact wines.

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Szürkébarat Tuff Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

A pinot gris from the tuff soils on the shores of Lake Balaton of just what feels like perhaps just one day of skin contact, aged in barriques, unfined and unfiltered. Unfeigned natural wine so to speak, lemon curd in all respects, phenolic and welcoming. Refreshing and textural, clean and juicy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Hárslevelü Jumis Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

A varietal hárslevelü, descendent of furmint grown on the shores of Lake Balaton. Skin contact, not forever but a few too three or fours days it feels, orange in a way and then again just a local pinot gris. Really clean and emptying into the complex basin of light and refreshing whites of hue, distinction, sweetly natural and ripe phenolics. Almost crunchy but more gliding and sliding across the palate with salty goodness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Olaszrizling Or(e) Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Aromatically distinct to potentially challenging with an aldehydic accent from olaszrizling grown near the shores of Balaton. Like Manzanilla with green olive brine, full on sapidity and in most respects so apposite to the salty pinot gris and truly saline hárslevelü. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Kékmelü-Olaszrizling Don’t Tell Mama Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

The blend is a macerated joint between kékmelü and olaszrizling from the north side of Lake Balaton that seeks the cool factor and finds it, but the wine while salty and a product of organic, natural wine and no sulphites credo, well, the je ne sais quois is yet out of reach. Love the idea and the flavours but perhaps an extra level of intensity and fantasy would seal the deal. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Pinot Noir Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

Natural, organic (not certified), unfined, unfiltered and in 2021, a very promising vintage as it happens, delivering a ripe pinot noir. High acid, intensely acid structured and tart to the nth degree. It’s cool climate but the vintage brings the phenolics and also the juiciness of all angles, sharp tang and length. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Bazalt Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

A cuvée from the very good 2021 for the natural producer, built on cabernet franc (and likely kékfrankos) with a proper combination of ripeness and acidity. Sweet fruit and that level of acidity caught between beauty and intensity to create some fantasy and magic. This hill holds a future for red grapes and in particular kék, also hopefully kadarka but cabernet franc is surely the grape of least risk involved. Good work no doubt, rich enough to gain attention and as clean as so many would prefer in the context of “natural” wines. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Somló Hill

Somló

Somló is an 832 hectare wine region (530 planted top vines) in Veszprém county, in the North-West of Hungary and is the smallest of Hungary’s 22 wine regions. Juhfark, a native grape that survived the phylloxera epidemic, is planted almost exclusively in Somló. Two modern day winemakers chose quality, they being Imre Györgykovács and Béla Fekete, opening a new Somló renaissance after decades of obscurity. Much is happening today and new winemakers are very interested in this singular volcanic hill. The 432m high Somló hill is surrounded by a flat terrain, formed four to five million years ago as a result of a volcanic eruption. The terroir is basalt and volcanic ash tuff, while the lower areas are mainly loamy loess. On this visit we were graciously hosted up on the hill’s cantina to a most informative and quite frankly comprehensively representative tasting by Eva Cartwright, long time procurer of Somló wines.

With John Szabo M.S. and Eva Cartwright at Somloi

Somlói Vandor Pince Celli Dunántülu Juhfark 2021, Somló

From the volcanic Somló hill, stand alone away from the dozen or so others in the Balatonyi and a field blend despite the label announcing the variety as juhfark. Taut, high acidity that feels upwards of 8 g/L and mixed with 13 percent alcohol to incite this doubling down of local intensity. Salty and the sapid, then back aging before feeling warm and peppery into the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Juhfark Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal juhfark from the volcanic Somló hill and a best possible iteration from Tornai that will not tear love apart. A quality juhfark to be very sure, sapid and viscous, mature and with enough glycerin to really coat the palate. Must try interest here, like a cross between chenin blanc and viognier. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Furmint Apátsági Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal furmint from the volcanic Somló hill where this grape thrives, as it does in many basaltic Balaton area collines but something extra seems to exist here. Compound complexity and interest, fully formed ripenesses and then textures, substantial fruit and a sweet saltiness streaking through. Some glycerol fantasy as well in spite of the sweetness provided by the wood. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Hárslevelü Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal hárslevelü from the volcanic Somló hill and a definite cheese intonation which directs what to do for best pairing results. Only 12.5 percent alcohol but there is grip, flesh and structural hang, so be impressed if you dare. More interesting than the furmint, less oak textural-glycerol cloy and yet not quite the substance of the juhfark, in the end. Impression times three here, viognier-like power and full to the very, slightly nutty two bitter end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Hárslevelü Somlóí 2018, Somló

Varietal hárslevelü with some age on ‘im and a Manzanilla notation now, briny and green olive sharp. Taut still but surely moving along and interest in terms of what to eat (chicken Kiev comes to local mind) and so the intersect involves phenols, petrol and fried chicken and cheesy ham goodness, a.k.a. “Gordon Blue.” In the zone for certain reasons and anyway marching forward so make sure their is food and the wine is chilled. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Furmint Somlóí 2020, Somló

Varietal furmint that shows the youth of Somló with a similar Manzanilla profile and phenolic grip but quite youthful here – yet to transfer power to next level food pairing necessity. The volcanic hill is not one to deliver fruity wines and yet complexity, as you will duly note right here, runs dramatically and fantastically high. Which grape between the two (including hárslevelü) is better suited to the hill and a true Balatonyi palate? Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Juhfrark Somlóí 2019, Somló

Somló is simply the home of juhfark, a grape identified from and matched to the volcanic hill in ways others can’t quite get. Aromatics may not be the thing of expectation but they are filled with delectable fantasy and dream on from there forward. This is citrus unknown, not lemon or the type to think in terms of grassy extras but it’s something inviting, invigorating and shameless. What is this? Hard to say but it’s hyper real and curious. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Cuvée Somlóí 2019, Somló

A Cuvée from the hill known as Somló and likely a mix of four varieties planted there, they being hárslevelü, furmint, juhfrark and olaszrizling. While all three varietal wines from this volcanic place are special in their own right, layer and stack them in a cuvée for something truly other. And special. This has the ilk, glycerin, phenolics, resins, salts, sapid sways and complex flavours. Truth to the idea once again for the Balatonyi that appellative white blends can really tie the basins together. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Good to go!

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Balaton

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WineAlign

Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Dec28

Chianti Classico Collection, Stazione Leopolda

Composing a year-end, these are the most thrillin’ wines tasted in the last 12 months list is kinda akin to scribbling up a little warble, if you get the director’s drift. The question begs, what’s the cause, what’s the meaning and ultimately why bother? Reminiscences are part of the human condition and while there is little amusement however in watching a wine critic taste wines, there just may be some interest in reading said list, checking it twice and coming to a personal conclusion as to which choices are worthy, and which are merely nice.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

You will find a notable cadent shift in this year’s melody away from there being a substantial number of older wines chosen as having been the year’s most exciting. Not to mention a concentration of certain grapes and their OG places. It’s just, well, natural. For 2023 more of the choices are directed towards hopelessly romantic youthful wines in their extant moments still years away from entering their right proper drinking windows. No shortage of opportunities in 2023 to taste top examples – Of sangiovese, nebbiolo, nerello mascalese, nero d’avola, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, grenache, syrah, chardonnay, riesling, assyrtiko and chenin blanc – Are but a range within the lion’s share of varietal moments.

Sicilia en Primeur

Old wines can elicit epiphanies but a conscious effort is made to include as many current vintages as possible, provided they represent a winery’s best of the best. This is the state of winemaking today because deeper understanding, the consummate use of technology and a passionate willingness to always improve are qualifying so many of the world’s finest wines at poll positions to a greater degree than before. There is little surprise that Italian wines coexist in highest favour if only because the author spends more than 25 percent of a 365-day timeframe in that country. Italy’s long, deep and intimate relationship with success is a serious attraction and so being afforded the opportunity to taste 2,000 Italian wines in a calendar year will almost certainly result in experiencing no less than 50 thrilling examples. A Bordeaux trip in September to 25 growth properties could and should rightly deliver wines to dot this list. Same could be said for many other palate awakening wine regions worldwide. All this and yet overall travels and tastings were less diverse and more focused in 2023. The author is known to follow the work.

L’Etna, Sicily

Act one: Nebbiolo Prima. Act two: Two weeks later, the Chianti Classico Collection. Act three: Three months later, Sicilia en Primeur and a Canadian Sommelier boot camp with Chianti Classico. Act four: Summer in Paris with Lambrusco, judging at the Nationals in the Okanagan Valley for WineAlign, shooting video in Florence, up to Collio and Hungary and finally 113 degrees in the smoky shade of Washington. Act five: Europe all fall, from Bordeaux to Monferrato, Chianti Classico to Montalcino, Piedmontazine Alta Langa and back to Chianti Classico. These decisions are not taken lightly, nor are they apocryphal fabrications, but they are Godello’s 23 mind-blowing wines of 2023.

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW 2020, West Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes

Upper echelon aromatic stage presence, stoic and static as riesling must be if it wants to set a gold standard. Dry entry that sides and morphs into natural sweetness of peach and Forelle pear, almost lime cotton candy scented. From the original vineyard planted in 1976 closer to the lake where tender varieties excel. The elastic extension and tension together coexist as long as Seneca runs from the snow belt to Watkins Glen. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2023

Vineyards of the Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee Des Vignerons 2021, PDO Santorini, Greece

Of course 100 per cent assyrtiko, picked and collected between six and eight AM, straight into the press, stainless steel vinified, no cooling, no passing go, no collecting 200 drachmas. All about preserving essential freshness, finesse and elegance. Spontaneous fermentation, a year on lees, in bottle six months. It is right here where we are to understand why Yiannis Valambous gave up a life 14 years ago that was not focused on Santorini, chose to return and altered his history. Santorini once a place of summers spent without purpose or tension is now all encompassing, focused on assyrtiko and for good reason. It is the variety to which all white grapes now aspire. Gramina sheds distraction and focuses on purity and 2021 is a great vintage. It celebrates assyrtiko from where it thrives and conveys that all important message of place. After tasting the Vassaltis Cuvée Des Vignerons 2021 winemakers around the world will ask their farmers to plant the grape in the place where they are. They will do so because even a fraction of this excellence will be worth pursuing. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Ulmo Chardonnay

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028. Tasted May 2023

With Sarah Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA, Yakima Valley, Washington

J.B. Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard 2008, Napa Valley, California

As Trailside Vineyard from Heitz will always do, is it the acid that is preserved. This was the case in both the ’06 and the ’07 but back in 2008 the aromatics were expressed in extra level florals, savoury elements and a charming layering of swarthiness. Five years of bottle aging before release plus nine more since have gathered the necessary elements and when you nose but then taste this wine you just know that it is Heitz, by style and out of a context that speaks to what the vineyard is want and purposed to say. Fine position, time and place right here, right now, ready, willing, able to please and without any moment of equivocation. Might just stay this way for another five, perhaps even ten years. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted October 2023

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Napa Valley, California

Opened after a near 20-year stay in the cellar and just a few days after tasting the 2010 and 2020 with Beth Weber Novak in Toronto. The vintage has not been considered as one to hold as long as either 2001 or 2003 but there can be no questioning this 2002’s longevity on this very day. Inventiveness without reinvention because this scents as fresh as it must have been at the essence of its very nascence. All that can be crushed to express in aromas for which imagination conjures berries, stones, clay and flowers. Spottswoode ’02 defines a Napa Vally posit tug between power and grace while existing in a controlled state of confidence and calm. A wine that gently, privately seduces the palate, body and mind into the gentlest slumber of our lives. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted May 202

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020, Sicily, Italy

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2023

Il Poggio, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February and May 2023

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2009, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy

Colonia Vineyard is a short jog up the hill past Rancia and through the woods. In 1966 Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the “tufa” hills of his Fèlsina estate. It was small, built of stone and with a wide brick vault. It was a start. In 1967 he chose to plant Colonia in an impossibly challenging and extreme Alberese limestone rocky location. He used dynamite because that was the thing at the time but it was soon outlawed and made clearing the land near impossible. Twenty-four years later Giovanni Poggiali resumed the project and planted its first vines in 1993, just before Domenico passed away. Colonia 2009 is La Prima, the first Gran Selezione and this look back is one to recall roots (tethered to 2006), familial traditions and passing of the Chianti Classico torch. This vintage separates and leaves its original designations in the rear-view mirror. At 14 years of age it remains austere but austere can be beautiful. As here, with severe and chiseled features though the savoury elements differ from Rancia. More resinous evergreen and forested aromas but also a chalkiness that speaks directly out of the Alberese. The thing is Colonia remains still young and fresh, while the powdered mineral persists unresolved. One of the most fascinating retrospective looks at aged Chianti Classico. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana IGT

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Last tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2021, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Paolo’s first tasting of this finished 2021 Cepparello since bottling back in May is this right here. The frost vintage, namely on April 7th, with secondary buds on the Cordone vines being the source of most of the wine’s fruit. Not a disaster at Isole e Olena, maybe 35 percent loss in total but the quality was high and so less Chianti Classico was made. “That wine is less about the vintage for us,” says de Marchi and so this as the decision made to cope with the small crop. Once again (and since forever) Paolo employs the aromas and proteins inducing method of soft maceration, long délestage and skins connected back with already half fermented juice. The ’21 is a wine of “frescezza” and yet saying freshness does not do the description justice. There is tension and a nervous energy buzzing from Cepparello 2021 and one to really hold your attention. There may be no Italian word for texture but were there one that made any real sense it might be the dramatic threads of “weft” from this 2021 youthful work in progress. This will be a Cepparello for the ages, Buy it and bank on it. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted December 2023

Related – 15 Mind blowing wines of 2015

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Conti Costanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colle Al Matrichese 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988, Tuscany, Italy

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Related – Mind blowing wines of 2014

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017, Barbaresco, Piedmont

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Château Troplong-Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Twenty-three Canadian wines that rocked in 2023

Dec24

What makes a list? The question is like asking what makes a Martini dirty or how much VA is too much in sangiovese? There are some things in life that aren’t certain and others that are. The porcino is the king of all Italian mushrooms, just as the morel is in Ontario. This much is true. A young wild leek is best sautéed as briefly as possible in soft scrambled eggs while an older bulbous ramp should only be pickled. Chicken of the Woods mushrooms are the most striking fungi of them all and chanterelles are the only true frutto del bosco. Composing a best of list is not like these things but something other that takes time, a year’s accumulation of thought and above all else, patience. When more than 1,000 Canadian wines are tasted in a calendar year, narrowing it down to 23 feels like a weighty sense of responsibility and a profound task.

We are so far past discussing the merits or collective quality of wines produced in Canada. Canadian wines rock. They rock you like a hurricane, rock this joint and this town. They rock and roll all night, around the clock and the casbah. They are a rock and roll star, a rock and roll fantasy, old time rock and roll, a rock lobster and just a singer in a rock and roll band. Canadian wine is still rock and roll to me. Got it? This annual agglomeration gets easier to create and harder to define. In no particular order, in other words one through 23 are not systemized in any ascending or descending order. They are arranged to begin with this country’s most successful style of wine, that being sparkling, followed by riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc, red blends and Icewine. These are Godello’s 23 Canadian wines that rocked in 2023.

From the Naramata Bench

Tantalus Blanc De Blancs Traditional Method 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Truly noses as blanc de blanc made from only chardonnay, orchard fruit suspended in sparkling animation. Gingery and rightly oxidative while tightly wound, grippy and ready for anything that is to follow. Flesh from the fruit of the trees fallen in to the hand even before it was picked from the stem. Croccante, succulent, a scintillant raciness in every respect, satisfying and long. Would really like to see this again after the decade strikes ten. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

WineAlign National Awards of Canada judging in the Okanagan Valley

Hinterland Les Étoiles 2018, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Traditional Method and the archetype for making bubbles to speak on behalf of a very specific terroir whilst using estate grown Prince Edward County chardonnay and pinot noir. Hinterland is THE PEC version of Grower’s Champagne because Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras spend more time with their vines than anything else. Considering how many waters their toes dip into that says something and Les Étoiles means business. It is a serious sparkling wine, with intense flavours and the kind of backbone most fizz can only dream of hanging their flesh upon. The 2018 is precocious and wise yet the exploits of its behaviour have only just begun. So taut, so tightly wound and yet so bloody generous. Fresh and with gingery oxidative moments but ultimately in control and introspectively complex. Re-visit as often as possible for up to 10-plus years. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted March 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been beforev- well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Okanagan Valley

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Moutnain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Trail Estate Pinot Noir Sparkling (P.N.17) 2017, VQA Ontario

Here flies from the glass a sparkling gambit that has to be winemaker Mackenzie Brisbois’ most conventional wine. Just pinot noir and from an inverted vintage that gets better and better with time. A 2017 of wildly fantastical aromas and gravitas that make every aspect, component and iterated moment shine. This is a scintillant of excitation that delivers succulence we richly desire from Ontario sparkling wine. The mix of heady perfume, intensity of palate raciness and texture sliding into structure is truly something. If you are not put into an absolute tizzy and hypnotized by this fizz you may not be paying attention. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Estate

Blomidon Estate Winery Brut Blanc De Blancs 2016, Nova Scotia

A 2016 Bland de Blancs that saw 60 months on the lees. Super aromatic and expressive as if breezes were blowing through, Fundy winds with sea kelp and wet clay. Ideal phenolics in an idealized B de B that surely captures place, especially in a vintage like this, but truth is tells Simon Rafuse, “extreme climate event weather in Nova Scotia is making vintage cuvées nearly impossible.” Much of the fruit here comes from the estate block on the bay north of Port Williams, a sandy site that makes for more gentle, elegant and abiding chardonnay. Using old barrels helps to fatten and flesh up that fruit. Seems like an ideal match for the scintillant style of traditional method Nova Scotia sparkling wine. Super fun and energetic bubble. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2023

Lightfoot & Wolfville estate vines overlooking the Minas Basin

Lightfoot & Wolfville Cuvée Evelyn, Nova Scotia

Pinot Noir 85% Chardonnay 15%. If a bit too oxidative in tendency confirmed by the preserved lemon, well it also supports an ambitious style (reminiscent of top, top Cap Classique) that defines this traditional method, pinot noir controlled sparkler. Amazing toasty quality and just the right level of acid sourness to electrify and stretch in the finest nimble way while maintaining balance. Just has to be a top tier cuvée for this house. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Godello and Taylor Whelan, CedarCreek Vineyards

CedarCreek Pinot Noir Rosé Platinum South Kelowna Slopes 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As perfumed as it can ever get for Rosé with a salutary seasoning to elevate flavours up into a complex level of vinous gastronomy. Just scents like ripe pinot noir set up for food matching where plates like tamarind-glazed duck tacos, lemon thyme roasted game birds or anything spit grilled (a.k.a. al pastor) would willingly sidle alongside. Can handle a side of pickled onion, beet or turnip and also the truth. What a terrific use of Home Block and Simes vineyard pinot noir fruit, a white-like wine of protected aromatics, lees addendum, not to mention how blessed it is by a beautiful autumn that made sure Rosé could also be graced by true Okanagan phenolic ripeness. Perfect storm of a Rosé and we should all be thankful for the happenstance. Will age more than a bit as well. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Vineland Estates Riesling Elevation St. Urban Vineyard 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Credit know-how, track record and pedigree – all those essentials of a producer with varietal experience from THE place in this country where it all began. Yes, all this matters but step forward and know that Vineland Estates uses modern technology in both their farming and also winemaking practices in ways no one else seems to equal. So what does this mean for this archetype of an Ontario riesling? So much. St. Urban 2022 is the cleanest, freshest and most luxe yet, simply put it’s all about pinpointed accuracy, finesse and well, great science. The fruit is crisp, the acids purposed and the finish long, silent, salient and salty. This will age alongside some of the best, with noticeable phenolics in tow, making for sapid moments too. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Gabriel Demarco, Cave Spring Cellars

Cave Spring Riesling CSV 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

From the first 2019 CSV holds the intangible riesling cards and feels well-ripened, despite the vintage not being one of the warmer ones up on the Niagara Escarpment. Truth is CSV ’19 wears its phenolics on both sleeves as noted in the botanical resins, melon skins and stone fruit pit aromas. Already possessive of a subtle petrol kiss and acidity of a clear and present high number. Nothing dangerous mind you and the phenol-acid relationship in the wine is quite static, stoic and immovable, at least in this stage of early youth. Will mature quicker than some though the mineral quotient will always ride shotgun. CSV 2019 feels like healthy drinking. It will likely assist in averting the damage of cells resulting from free-radical oxidation reactions and also promote anti-inflammation capacity. More than riesling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted April 2023

Tawse Riesling Carly’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Stoic, cool, gelid and reserved riesling in the vein of a cool climate though the palate richness suggests a warmer vintage. High sugar and also equally so in acid, well-balanced and bespoke where the relationship between grape and geology is ideally matched. This is extremely well made. Finish is extraordinary, with tremendous grip. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

ed. The 2007 Carly’s Block tasted in July during a visit to Redstone Winery also rocked for 2023. One of Paul Pender’s great works indeed.

Charles Baker

Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard 2019, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

Crisp and crunchy but more importantly indelibly phenolic and with all parts moving as one, in synch and so incredibly harmonic. Symphonic riesling from the fabulous Baker boy out of 2019 and with this amount of time now passed, increasingly uncovering proof that it is indeed a vintage for the ages. Texture and intensity with shots of umami are created as a result of that stamp of particular Vinemount Ridge ripeness. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

August Chicken of the Woods

Westcott Chardonnay Block 76 2020, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

The 2020 may be as ideal as it gets for chardonnay across most sub-appellations of Niagara and Block 76 from Westcott up on the Vinemount Ridge proves the theory in so many ways. The statuesque musculature and moment frozen in time visage is something else from a chardonnay so stoic, confident and the kind of act sure attitude that speaks to farming and winemaking cohesiveness. From Garrett Westcott to Casey Kulczyk – there are no holes in this chardonnay. The barrel is huge and yet subtle, the fruit pristine and treated to precision, finesse and at the end of the day, Westcott family love. Benchmark for vintage, ridge and estate. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard Unfiltered 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Estate chardonnay is a cracker 2020 for Hidden Bench and along comes single-vineyard Felseck to crank up the volume for something off the charts. The aromatic bites and flavour washes deliver a Beamsville Bench wall of varietal sound. This is driven, single-vineyard minded and stubborn chardonnay to put symphonies of sound in our heads. Like massed pianos, guitars and string arrangements from which pervasive aromatic perfume and transonic flavour intensity collect to personify cool climate Bench chardonnay. The farmer, maker and proprietor may not be the fruit themsleves, but Felseck 2020 is most definitely their wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Not just the next vintage of the Senchuk homefront chardonnay but potentially one that will be talked about for a decade in retrospective tastings and longer. Whether or not a bottle is present, the reverberations will percolate through the ages. Not just a matter of varietal stuffing created by soils rich in clay and alluvial alloy in which stones feel pulverized into the textural fabric of this wine. You can chew this like taffy and feel the juices run as it liquifies and spreads across the palate. Hovering acidity keeps all the fruit covered, then lifted and placed just where you want this cleanest and purest of Lincoln Lakeshore fruit to be. We are all impressed and those who are not should be mystified due to reasons misunderstood. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Chardonnays of i4C 2023

Rosehall Run St. Cindy Chardonnay 2020, VQA Prince Edward County

The ode goes to Cindy Zwicker Reston, Rosehall Run co-founder and the honour is more about good deeds and love than it is just about name. St. Cindy is no small gift of a label and the good thing is Dan Sullivan’s work puts the saint in the Cindy. Few Prince Edward Country chardonnays were able to avoid ripening, softening, elevated alcohol and loss of tension but double R’s Cindy is the balanced one. Yes it is ripe and also rich but even more important is the pitch perfect seasoning, grip retention and finest moments where extract and tannin collide. This is really, really good chardonnay. The kind of stuff taught in chardonnay winemaking school but riffed upon in the real world. What else needs to be said? Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Vintage number three from Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and now more specific by way of a split, with the Frontier Block as the plot within the larger plot, along with that of Red Clay Barn. Drilling down into this historical vineyard that has risen as fast as any New World terroir, just about anywhere these sorts of things are measured. Here named for the final frontier, that being the “last terroir” in Niagara and who knows, maybe it will soon be the first rolling off of everyone’s lips. GHV-FB 2021 is a force, that much is clear from the first look. Or nose, for what matters. Cool and stony style from a wide open space where limestone, shale and gravels conspire to create something new and with absolute potential. It’s already arrived thank you very much and while words like luxe and opulent do not come to the tip, others like succulent and scintillating do. Just something so real and right at your doorstep, vivid beyond chardonnay compare, a stealth fish swimming in clear waters. Truly complex for chardonnay and it must be noted, unlike any other in the world though at the same time feeling like something you’ve known your whole life. Make an exception to delve into this exception because when it comes to chardonnay, this is what we need. Remarkable clarity and distinction, precision extraordinaire and a wine to cast nets far and wide to secure as many bottles that could be found. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted December 2023

Ramps of 2023

Stanners Pinot Noir The Narrow Rows 2020, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Warmest of vintages and yet as only pinot noir (especially from PEC) is want and capable of doing there is no dramatic rise in alcohol. Conversions will be conversions and they are almost always magical as it pertains to the County. The specificity of the Narrow Rows elicits a varietal human response like few, if no others out of the County and that means love. The wave of fruit effortlessly tumbling into sweet acidity and structure fitting like a glove makes all parts happy, singing and generous. They do their work with chivalry, philanthropy and love. The vintage is a conundrum for PEC reds but the Narrow Rows and subsequent actions will be judged as right in the future, in part because of the block and in part because the Stanners team abides by what this pinot noir needs to be. A top pinot for 2020 Prince Edward County. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2023

Judges of the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada

Privato Tesoro Pinot Noir Woodward Collection 2020, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Inviting, sexy and rising in high spirit, song sung hitting the high notes and a pinot noir that rocks from the first. The perfume is just so very brushy hillside or escarpment and perhaps a bit northerly in location. Crunchy and succulent, judiciously oaked and spiced. mid to more than that in weight, impressive concentration without density and length – such never-ending length. This is the right pinot for the people. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Thomas Bachelder

Bachelder Old Eastern Block Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench, Ontario

For Lowrey Vineyard go east young man, the east is the best – or at least east is oldest, planted in 1984 by the family for the legend Karl Kaiser. The lineage of alliances runs from Kaiser at Inniskillin with Jaffelin (now Rémoissenet), through Le Clos Jordanne and Bachelder forays into Oregon. Today the eastern block of old vines have passed their 35 year mark which means they are truly heritage, not only for Niagara but for anywhere in the world. A glacial heritage too, with limestone being a determining factor to make pinot like this seem soil-driven, mineral-bent and shaped by millennium. Bachleder’s job is to not fuck it up and though he never does, for 2021 he finds another gear. One that is measured and paced for pinot noir – which is exactly what it needs and wants. The sweetness and purity of both fruit and acidity is seamlessly braided to spin a wine that will surely be timeless. Truly special and deserving of much love so give it. Success? Did it come out? All his wines come out. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

The first Morel of 2023

Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc Wild Cask 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Full and splendid varietal expression with such a distinctly captured frank-ness in concentration that really sets the Bench on fire. All the fruit imaginable with help from ant ideal growing season and then the salt and pepper seasoning that sees wood do what’s right and also necessary. The linearity and even-keeled notions of this Thirty Bench are just so measured, persistent and incremental. Will age gracefully over 10 years time. Last tasted April 2023

If at first this may seem like middle road taken for grape and vintage, of medium specs all the way through, keep coming back to this wine. From fruit through acidity and into tannin there is harmony, seamlessly woven and without falter. Good pH balance connectivity to structure so that the cabernet franc doles in sapidity as much as anything else. Right amount of chalkiness and a temperament that is really quite fine. No mind that oak persists as a factor just on the right side of heavy for now. Should show beautifully in another year’s time and with (Bench) distinction for many years to follow. Equal parts salty and sapid is always great combination. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind with the Experts’ Panel, April 2023

Stratus White Label Red 2020, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The blend for Red is always vintage dependant but can’t say there is any shock to see cabernet sauvignon art 40 percent taking the 2020 lead. Next there is cabernet franc (27), followed by merlot and malbec (13 each) and finally petit verdot (7). Six weeks of picking between the merlot and the cabernet sauvignon with specs in the end right on par with that (latter) varietal wine. Meaning magnanimous, ambitiously structured and of a potential to see the 2020, 20th anniversary Red as becoming one for the Stratus ages. Certainly more juiciness and also fun (and pleasure) but make no mistake. These tannins bite back, the wood is far from integrated and years will be required to see this make good on its promise. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Peller Estates Riesling Icewine Andrew Peller Signature Series 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Densely concentrated and from the beginning an impressive balance in accord between sugars and acids so that the two move swimmingly along from the start through to a long lingering finish. One sip and the Icewine becomes one with your palate, hangs on, repeats upon itself and as far as that kind of attraction is concerned you welcome the linger. Special dedication and technique here to be sure. 179 gL RS and 10.5 percent abv. Last tasted January 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

Another fine Collio experience

Dec21

The year 2024 will mark the 60th anniversary of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. This important milestone of commitment, promotion and valourization of Collio wines and territory will surely be well celebrated. Last July I returned to the northeastern Italian wine region bordered by Austria, Slovenia and the Isonzo River. The Collio DOC vineyards must be on hillsides to qualify for appellative status and these sites on Ponca terroir are what separate the Collio wines from Friuli as a whole, but more specifically the most proximate DOCs of Friuli Colli Orientali and Friuli Isonzo. It takes its name from Friulian dialect, from a particular sandstone with alternating layers of marl, the composition of which originated millions of years ago. The low-level organic (but rich in mineral elements) Ponca is coloured blue-gray beneath the earth’s surface but turns yellow-brown after exposure to air. The mix of of marl and sandstone can be equated to Flysch and many producers prefer this less parochial term to describe the unique geology.

I had previously visited the hills of the Collio DOC in late spring of 2019, in are area but one to a few kilometres from Slovenia and also Adriatic coast. It’s no wonder that its white wines are highly aromatic and unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock to give them their distinct personality. What is certain about Collio wines is their distinctive phenolic quality. They are intrinsically tied to their villages which dot the landscape that forms a half-moon around Slovenia, though with not a lot of variety in the soils. Climate is highly variable however and if a line were drawn from east to west you would pass from warmer to cooler.

The view from Casa delle Rosa Estate, Dolegna del Collio

Chardonnay and sauvignon are grown to the west, ribolla gialla to the east, malvasia and friulano in their particular pockets and pinot grigio everywhere. The overall territory’s connectivity encourages the production of appellative blends. I for one have made new space for them. Collio is in fact one of Europe’s most fascinating wine regions, a white wine specialist located in the Gorizia Hills of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The amphitheatre of Collio vineyards follow a line along the western border of Slovenia in the northeastern corner of Italy. It is here where centuries of a mélange of multicultural histories meet in a venn diagram of multifarious Italian, Slovenian and Austro-Hungarian mythology.

The Ponca of Collio

The 2023 July visit began at Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli. There are places that alone express the deep historical and human value of a territory. The Spessa Castle is one of those places and Collio is that territory. Dinner with the board of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio took place at Tavernetta al Castello.

Risotto at Tavernetta al Castello

The first full day at Borgo Gradis’ciutta was introduced by PromoTurismo FVG, followed by a Collio DOC tasting that led by Richard Baudains that focused on native grapes; Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC, Friulano Collio DOC and Malvasia Collio DOC. Dinner with the producers took place at Locanda all’Orologio in Brazzano di Cormòns. The second day focused on three more DOCs; Pinot Grigio Collio DOC, Sauvignon Collio DOC and Collio Bianco DOC. Lunch followed at Hosteria da Monia and dinner with producers at Casa delle Rose winery. We paid estate visits at Tenuta Villanova, Tenuta Borgo Conventi, Villa Russiz and Gradis’ciutta.

Tortelli at Locanda All’Orologio, Brazzano-Cormòns

Richard Baudains is THE master Collio educator. “Go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes,” tells Baudains. Cuvées or field blends can fall within the DOC, or not. There are a total of 1,500 ha planted, as opposed to 1,700 in Soave and 1,900 in Macon and a production of 6.5 million bottles, as opposed to 10 in Soave. This is an indication to lower yields and significantly so. In fact it represents 11 per cent of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and three per cent of total Italian production. There are 16 DOC mono-varietals and two DOC blends. More than 95 per cent are white wines, made by 350 growers, 180 bottlers and one cooperative on an average 4.0 ha of planted space. The lead is pinot grigio at 26 per cent, followed by sauvignon (19) and friulano (15). The latter endemic grape declined dramatically and was in fact at 50 per cent just a couple of decades ago. The rest include ribolla gialla (7.5), chardonnay (9), pinot bianco (4) and malvasia (2.5).

With the Sommeliers at Borgo Gradis’ciutta

In May 2019 I tasted through upwards of 100 examples of various Collio DOC with nine “neighbourhoods” as their collective source; Brazzano Di Cormòns, Capriva Del Friuli, Cormòns, Dolegna Del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Gorizia, Mossa, Oslavia and San Floriano del Collio. Sauvignon and Collio Bianco were most concentrated upon. In July of 2023 we began with those two wildly diverse first Consorzio Collio tastings led by the legend Baudains. The tastings were well orchestrated by our Sommeliers, the Consorzio’s Lavinia Zamaro and La Fede, a.k.a. Federica Schir. On this trip I tasted 116 examples of Collio DOC (and two Venezia-Giulia IGT). They are broken down as follows: (10) malvasia, (12) ribolla gialla, (23) friulano, (22) sauvignon, (22) pinot grigio, (17) Collio Bianco, (10) other varieties and (2) IGT. Here are the notes.

Malvasia

Bracco 1881 Malvasia La Mont-Brach 2021, Collio DOC

Classic malvasia really, from a cool site, lemon-waxy, beeswax mainly, tang, tart edginess and fine bitters. Spice and incense. Clicks every box on the expected varietal list and the length here is quite good. Picks up steam and fleshes well. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Curious how both ribolla gialla and friulano by Gradis’ciutta are open-knit, airy and fast friendly while malvasia is more closed and demure. Fulsome on the palate however and silky, cool, herbal and then finishing with drifting downy softness. Bitters arrive right at the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Malvasia Soluna 2021, Collio DOC

Anything but showing as a shy variety in this Soluna by Livon, sharp of tang and keen of spirit. Intensity of lemon in every which way but loose. Lots of finishing pith. A bit over the top. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Quietly confident malvasia from Alessandro Pascolo with an immediately gratifying set of aromas bred and bled from the vineyard mixed with winemaking for great compliment. Clean lees create a positive lactic effect while the flavours are traditionally sweet and sour. Lots of wine here, some waxiness and smoulder, intensity and drive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Malvasia 2019, Collio DOC

Long maceration on the skins much like the ribolla gialla and the friulano, as is Damian Podversic’s house style. Most pronounced with this grape and does in fact stifle the aromas while elevating the salve effect, tannic presence and intensity on the palate. Big wine from beautiful grapes and yes, this style is his reason for being and making wine. Salty (with caramel) to a wild degree with forest brush all throughout. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

So much more flesh in malvasia, both on the nose and the palate, especially in an example that gathered this much sun and achieved admirable ripeness. This is how it Pighins, with juicy lemon and then flavour intensity, finishing at fine beliers and saltiness. Accessible and professional. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Surely the most reductive of the malvasia and a barrel style to imagine flint, paraffin and mineral smoulder. Quite successful in this regard, ambitious perhaps and working the glass with diligence for great effect. Bitters and tonics, grip if controlled with its intensity in near perfect tact. Wood (tonneaux) needs to melt and settle in. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

In line with Stella’s ribolla gialla and also friulano in which a whole lot of wine and complexity hides behind the curtain of sauvage and stinky cheese. As malvasia it’s surely unique, curious and a taste that most would consider acquired. Goat hide and wild flavours of make us want more and the wine creates a true salivation of the palate. If only the yeasts were got under control. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Five months have wrought wonders on the ’21 malvasia which now expresses itself with not just clarity but great spirit. A force of varietal nature and right in the proverbial zone, fresh, dancing, full and bursting with intensity. Last tasted July 2023

Though the history of malvasia and Collio is long and storied the number of producers bottling the grape as a solo artist and not in Collio Bianco is dwindling from year to year. The grape is indeed an ambassador of the denomination and can effect wonders in the bottle. This comes from a purposeful to potentially profound vintage and you can really feel the gravitas in the density and volumetric properties of this unique white wine. The relationship between place and variety takes it where nowhere else does, into extra viscosity and unction, limpid waters where texture enriches and enlivens the liquidity of the wine. Note the booziness (at 14.5 per cent) and the low yet notable level of residual sugar. Fulsome and all in, in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Vosca Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Chewy malvasia with more phenolics and bitters up front. Steady and of a continuance to palate with notes on repeat. Quite metallic and sapid. Higher pH no doubt. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ribolla Gialla

The Ribolla Gialla is probably the only truly local variety, first cited in 1299. Thick skinned, low sugar, high acidity, late picked and prefers the higher, stony sites. Has lost favour because of competition by sauvignon but it’s under a revival. Even some experimentation in sparkling iterations. Hardy and vigorous, later budding and so less prone to frost. Sugars move slowly and acids remain forever. For the variety there are 100 bottlers, 1300 hectares which makes the average holding only 13! The largest is approximately 40.

Attems Ribolla Gialla Trèbes 2021, Collio DOC

Owned by Frescobaldi, warm site and early picked. The first and likely most reductive of the first 10 ribolla gialla, a bit mephitic to be honest and agitation is necessary. Lots of fine wine behind the veil, intense, implosive, layered and stony. The most mineral driven expression and a wine to attract a very specific crowd. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cool, gelid, stoic, even serious ribolla gialla. The citrus is not so much preserved as it is like savoury lemongrass gelato, less aromatic and also no sweetness but just gives the feeling of being satiny and cold. No lees, malolactic or obvious complexity. The grace and elegance are noted but also less risk, middle road taken, solid varietal weight and effect overall. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Ribolla Gialla Yellow Hills 2021, Collio DOC

From Capriva di Friuli and one of the oldest family-run wine companies in the Collio DOC. There are 30 hectares in Collio and 70 in Isonzo DOC, split between Capriva and Cormons. A varietal ribolla gialla that speaks to the colour of the hills when the grapes are golden at harvest. Stays on the lees until March, is then racked off and put to bottle where is remains for a further nine months before release. Lees but a resolved, mature and sweetly fruit integrated one. Phenolic though again maturity in that regard so no metallic or botanical sensation derived. More than enough freshness, a nutty quality because of the aging and also a finish part lemon waxy and part herbal. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

An aromatically floral ribolla and also one at the higher end of the phenolic scale. Quite an alloy of cool, sapid-licked slick of sensations derived. Less lemon and more lemongrass and so here is a wine to pair so well with Vietnamese cuisine. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cooler feelings and herbal, preserved lemon and aromatic texture. Balance and full connect between aromas and flavours, slick and silken, nothing out of whack and seamless integration. Nothing overt or standing out but it is this togetherness that sees all parts working as one. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Ribolla Gialla Roncalto 2022, Collio DOC

From a cooler site near to Slovenia. The least intensity in terms of aromatics, reticent in a way and yet unleashed. Different story on the palate with a real sour lemon flavour and intensity of tang. Out of balance in more than one regard. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Ribolla Gialla Damijan 2019, Collio DOC

Age and maturity come quick to ribolla gialla and combined with 30 days skin contact in maceration makes for a golden orange wine. Classic tisane, part orange citrus and part aromatic tuber. Add in the aging inside big 25 hL barrels leading to a softness but also a fullness of texture. This is ribolla gialla in confident balance, clean, sure and respectful of itself and those who drink it. Not really an orange wine at all and were it considered in the genre, well it would surely be a top example of that, with nary a moment of oxidation or volatility. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Some more colour and even later picked maturity than the average ribolla gialla. Carries texture and weight into a deeper feeling as well, still a metal sensation but not nearly as phenolic as some, seemingly counterintuitive but there it is. Well judged and executed example in the face of hanging long and pressing with fervour. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Natural fermentation, 15 days maceration on the skins, cellar temperature, aged in old tonneaux. Some funky lees noted off the top, like crème frâiche and aging citrus. Minor TCA. Palate emits a minor bacterial note. Nothing egregious but present nonetheless. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

No wood, only stainless steel and like all Collio wines they remain on the lees for a couple of months longer than those of Isonzo. Does not get much fresher or palate cleansing than Villanova’s, from clay soils gifting aromatic balance, shared affinities between florals, lemon drop citrus, phenolics and what clean lees are want to deliver. The lovage herbal note is sweetly pungent though the transition to palate changes with more intensity than expected. The flavours are favourable and potentially memorable. Some sweet and sour mix and then the metallic note so prevalent in Collio. Des there is an extra layer as compared to Isonzo, namely because the two hills where the grapes are grown are layered with stratified-stony Ponca soil, unlike the clays of the Isonzo plains that surround them. Really satisfying wine. rink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Confident and concentrated ribolla gialla, layered and full of complimentary but also supportive parts. Fruit and stone in cohorts, minor reduction and major texture. Maximum ripeness for the grape. A wine that surely celebrates place. Feels like the top single varietal expression for the house. Drink 2023-2026.Tasted July 2023

Vosca Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

More aromatics here in a complex olfactory weave of citrus, sweet herbs and marine saltiness. Feels earlier picked and the acidity confirms this notion. Definitely the crunchiest and saltiest example if a bit of extra lees and or malolactic quality felt as well. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Friulano

Then there is friulano, the opposite of ribolla gialla, thin skinned, low acidity and not fussy. Will grow anywhere. Harvest gap times are much wider and yet a wet September can be challenging. In dry conditions it will usually hang well into September.

Branko Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

From Igor Erzetic who changed the old vines over to Guyot in 2005, five years after taking over the vineyard. His father was Branko and the varieties cultivated are chardonnay, pinot grigio, sauvignon and this friulano. Use of wood is for seasoning, not for “dominance.” Igor is looking for mineral and especially sapidity, but in the end he is happy with harmony. His 2022 is fully phenolic, botanical, sapid and savoury. So very friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A bit of funky lees on the cooperative’s friulano, unexpected because their wines are usually squeaky clean. Lemongrass, pungency of herbs and yogurt are there, followed by some lemon sherbet and a soft mouthfeel. Slides away slow and easy, finishing with true sauvignon-esque style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello di Spessa Friulano Rassauer 2021, DOC Collio

Doesn’t get much more phenolic than this grippy aromatic friulano from Castello di Spessa in Captiva del Friuli and ripeness is clearly one of its virtues. Tasted blind and with the white pepper shakes this could be grüner veltliner, in particular from the Wachau. Lots going on here in a varietal wine that speaks to low yields, proper hillside plantings and attention to detail. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Draga Friulano Miklus 2018, Collio DOC

Five years is long enough to get a sense of what aging friulano can bring to the table and the Miklus by Draga tells a winding, evolving and fascinating story. Perhaps some botrytis here, noted in the saffron and the preserved lemon plus much more wood aging put this in an entirely different ethos. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Friulano Rijeca 2022, Collio DOC

Some maturity here and not perfectly clean fruit. Shadowy mephitic and lean. Not correct. Overly bitter and also tannic. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From the village of Ruttars in the municipality of Dolegna del Collio. Waxy, in fact the first of its ilk when you’d expect so much more but Collio friulano is not truly of the paraffin kind. Salty, with botrytis-induced saffron but also a good flavoured Solvenian salt. Tart but in control and all the while built with fine bitters to bring it all together. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’cutta Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

More fleshy accumulation and later picked ripeness gained for credibility in the Gradis’cutta friulano and without hesitation. Streak of mineral salt and simply balanced throughout. Textbook friulano, clean, refreshing, neither too lean nor too fat. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Old vines, good site. Lemon in so many ways dominate the nose, drops of candy, juice and a phenolic grip by the pith. Full and even expansive on the palate, fatter and creamier than most Collio friulano. Good acid here as well so there really is a lot going on, perhaps needing a few more months to integrate and come together. Tannic and proper, not technical and with plenty of potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Most interesting aromatic profile, the first to bring about key lime and sweet basil. The cool gelid feeling begins here and carries over to the palate. Tonic and salty character in a balanced wine that is surely indicative of a vintage’s promise as evidenced by the seamless transitions in the wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Friulano Manditocai 2021, Collio DOC

Single site, cru or just fantasy name but regardless you can feel the concentration on the nose. Pencil lead, wild fennel and other savoury to brushy elements make this stand out from the pack. The wood could use just a bit more integration but it will get there. Salty, lemony and intense palate with linearity and length. True vibrancy and the fine bitters really tie it all together. Manditocai means “bye-bye tocai.” Cheeky. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A cornerstone of Alessandro Pascolo’s production, the anchor in his Collio Bianco and here what feels like much of his most important varietal fruit. Equally aromatic and playful on the palate, dancing as friulano should for energy and refreshment. Clean and caught in just the right moment between linearity and fleshiness. A few grinds of white pepper and really great length. Top example. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Clean, fresh, lemony and open-knit friulano with every moment intent on thirst-quenching, satisfying and refreshing feelings. Just that most minor finishing hint of phenolic grip and white pepper but this is a fleshy and “grasso” friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Friulano Nekaj 2019, Collio DOC

Longer maceration time on the skins, likely as much as 30 days and combined with a couple of extra years of age puts this in full maturity. Not as expressive and energetic as the ribolla gialla but still just as clean and without any off-putting natural funk. The salve feeling and layered tang is stronger, both a result of phenolic grip and deeper or more density of tannin. Surely stands apart from the rest. Not exactly the best grade for this style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Just ever so slightly effervescent energy buzzes from the Blanchis “hill” friulano in a cool, gelid and faux sweet example. Certainly ripe and phenolic, well mad despite the hot vintage because it strikes overall accord between what could have been disparate parts. A touch of botrytis here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russiàn Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Less open and surely not a gregariously aromatic friulano while the palate tells an entirely different story. From a closed to widely open circumstance, first shy and then dancing, tripping the tongue and expressive of many sweet, sour and salty flavours. Rijstaffel in the mouth. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From Pradis and typical as it is aromatically lean, not so much closed as not so forthright. Sapid and stoic, pH a bit higher here as well and less indicative of the vintage. More flesh and expressiveness on the palate, almost peachy but there is an unripe greenness about it. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Quiet and reserved, holding back the years, perfume and tears. Crisp, clean and crunchy friulano, lean and refreshing. Part salty and part sapid, working both sides of the varietal room. Herbal and herbaceous, very much like green sauvignon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Spontaneous ferment, good time on the lees and then in old, large barrel. Oxidative to a degree and freedom felt through and through. Vociferous, some slightly funky lees and most certainly a naturally conceived and executed friulano with great wandering purpose. Fleshy and flighty, fanciful and full of varietal fantasy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A certain aspect of typically Collio friulano stands out on this semi-aromatic front and that would be the blossom perfume, orange namely but also something from wood. Really middle road taken friulano and fleshy, of plump raisins and melon, even a hint at litchi. Could be the slightest bit of botrytis but it comes across neither sweet nor funky. Glycerin, medium-bodied, sweet acidity and concentration with thanks to a warm and hot summer. Low rainfall yet grapes were healthy and their adaptability translated to their expression and personality. A wine that is a truthful and respectful tribute to the region. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Still working through its kinks of reduction and enzymatic motions, alive, dancing and kicking. Improving with every passing moment, developing further complexities, advancing towards an end game. Just about at that moment. Last tasted July 2023

As with the kindred Bianci there is unction and viscosity dictating the character of the friulano, more so than pinot bianco yet less than the über thick and textural malvasia. This one seems to find the middle ground and glides through with more ease, gently sliding over the palate yet not leaving any salve or residual tape behind. Middle of the road is proper and good in this case when you think on things as scenarios of good, better and best. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2019, Collio DOC

Friulano from 2019 persists and remains in ideal tact, fruit and phenols intertwined, together, intact. The taciturn is apprised for grape variety and place, also inseparable and moving in tandem. Really floral example, vinous and reeking of the endemic grape it has to be, here, now and for always. Sweetly natural, cool and in the open window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Vosca Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Cool and metallic, especially in the friulano range, gelid and not overly perfumed. A truly sapid iteration, likely higher in pH and less so in terms of usual acids. Lean to a degree and really quite refreshing. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Phenolic friulano, cool and stoic, not aromatic in any fruity or floral way. Juiced and zested lemon all over the palate, a bit one dimensional in that regard and still emitting sulphides yet to blow away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz in Capriva del Friuli

Sauvignon

“In Collio the blanc is omitted and the commitment to brevity allows for their prized and undemocratic sauvignon to co-exist in a über particular vacuum occupied by friulano, malvasia and ribolla gialla. These Gorizia Hills so proximate to Slovenia and the Adriatic coast make for whites of the highly aromatic ilk, unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock. These thoughts and claims do justice to sauvignon with both equal and in relation to the aforementioned coveted grapes, opposing justice.

“The biggest variable is site,” told Richard Baudains, a consideration in astute support of his earlier prelude for Collio Bianco when he said “go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes.” Somewhere in the mechanism of Collio sauvignon there is a device that simulates the gestalt of a storm. A switch, however personal, that reacts to and perhaps assimilates after tasting to find oneself stunned, as if spun in that vacuum that forms in the immediate wake of an historic turn. Or in this case, a varietal one.”

Ascevi Luwa Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

The aromatics in this sauvignon blanc come out of nowhere, first with tin fruit cup pear and peach, followed by a savouriness best described as blatant black liquorice. Or aniseed but regardless there is no denying the fruit meets Glycyrrhiza Glabra as Sambuca liquor effect of this wine. The yeasts and lees are surely part of the delivery but how can terroir not be pointed out? To be discussed. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Attems Cicinis Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cicinis, from Latin meaning “squirrels” and solo sauvignon from a single vineyard planted for this purpose. A Collio wine from Friuli-Venezia Giulia and specifically Capriva del Friuli where the variety does as well as anywhere in the entirety of Italy. For varietal wines and also at the heart of many Collio Bianco blends but here the artist sings a cappella with richness and layering in its voice. A white wine of fine bitters, implosive tang and structure. Very curious, wholly unique. Last tasted November 2023

Pretty fruity number this Cicnis by Attems (owned by Frescobaldi by the way) and by the by you won’t find a much more up front and drinkable example. House style so similar to the other varietal wines made by Attems, attractive to all, clean and teachable for Collio from hill to hill. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Branko Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

This just has to be the most understandable and recognizable of Collio sauvignon and despite a bit of green char because of the vintage there can be no further elements needed to describe what that concept means. Concentration, hillside brush and grasses, humidity and the dampness of a place that gets into the bones of a wine. True karst bled from the skeletal Ponca of geology and a skillet filled with fungi, herbs and mineral salts. More than correct. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Sauvignon Segrè Capriva Del Friuli, 2021, Collio DOC

Unique aromatic profile on the Segrè by Castello di Spessa, of brushy savour and a dry concrete or at least Ponca geological sensation. Also a buzz on the palate, that ever so slight refreshing feeling given by CO2 akin to a Styrian style that’s really inviting. Really fine energy and vitality, the power of Capriva del Friuli, with oscillations between lean linearity and fleshy substance. Shows off 2021 with distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sauvignon Sant’Helena 2022, Collio DOC

Faux sugary capture, not unusual for Collio sauvignon, sweetly scented and then quite sharp in flavour. Tart and just fleshy enough to deliver as much ripeness as the vintage can, but 2022 is 2022 and the green streak is unavoidable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A soapy cilantro start which if you are like the card carrying members who relish the aroma, well than this sauvignon begins well and bodes for much promise. The palate does in fact deliver flesh, mineral and stone fruit in waves. Some green as well but no matter because the hills are alive with sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Feels like some skin contact here, definite later harvesting and no lack for pressing the sauvignon blanc bejeezers to make a pretty vinous if nearly resinous example. Acids are surprisingly fine and the wine finds enough balance amongst the green fleshed fruit with some in veraison skins. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A bit taut and aromatically reticent but know that the curtain pulled aside will reveal a fruit filled landscape and a vintage reality. Mineral salts, savoury herbs and yet to know fascinations. A stoic and confident sauvignon right here, upright, linear and surely of one of the more successful but also promising Collio styles. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Sauvignon Valbuins 2022, Collio DOC

The skins of stone fruit lead and so the Livon exhibits more ripeness than any of the 2022s, regardless of grape variety. A bit taut this one and so a good swirl will see the windows open and the energy released. Some structure and grip will see this Valbuins sauvignon live on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Consistent style here from Marcuzi, full on skin contact, not just for pinot grigio but also for sauvignon blanc. More tisane and salve texture this time and with this variety, ogf caramel and grapefruit but also lees layered throughout. This is the dude’s style. Like Champagne with no bubble. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Sauvignon Mossa 2022, Collio DOC

Much hidden behind a reductive wall, more than a veil and seeking more sauvignon than this. Acetic notes emerge and so something is amiss. Made with a predominance of French clones, a vertical expression, diversity of fruit, some buzz on the palate and a sort of Kiwi finish, but one that really goes on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Russian Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Truly salty sauvignon, lean and green, some sulphide activity unresolved and direct, in your face, attack upon the palate. What else is there to say? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Interesting and curious sauvignon, not so much an aromatic stunner but more like an unripe mango in search of some lime. Juicy but not truly concentrated and the herbology is quite sweet, like basil and yet the citrus element does arrive from the mid-palate forward and through the finish. Which is incidentally salty and so complexity does build to culminate in a proper example of Collio sauvignon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Quiet, no true varietal aromas available and then vinous, grape, simple, uncut and uncomplicated. Nothing to shout about for sure. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Substantial and up front with a clear and present intention to extoll the immediately gratifying Collio nature of this style in sauvignon blanc. More floral than tropical and good aromatic concentration from old vines. Few show the pyrazine as this does, also white pepper and intensity of varietal. Good expression of the hills above Isonzo. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Somewhere between eight and 12 vineyards with different harvest dates add up to this seamlessly layered sauvignon. Paolo walks the vineyards, tastes the grapes and makes his decisions on where to harvest and when. Every pick is fermented separately, the average on skins time is a night or so and the blends are made once fermentations are finished. Freshness incarnate, lemon drop, naturally sweet fruit and high acidity. As professional a sauvignon from Collio as there could possibly be, of clarity, purity and amenability. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cool, composed, taut and not quite open sauvignon blanc, though there is clearly something special waiting in the palates’ wings. This exudes confidence and concentration without equivocation and so terroir, that being the hills of Mossa And Gorizia, is responsible for the promise and potential. Properly structured sauvignon blanc and surely a distinct Collio expression. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2017, Collio DOC

The many vineyards of variegate, wide time frame picks prepare this sauvignon for early freshness and moderate structure, allowing it to stay focused through to this near six year mark. Some maturity for sure and a mild mustiness, yet persistent because of high extract and finely defined accents. Good seasoning makes sure to see this drinking well enough in 2023. Should stay this way for another year or so. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

Warm and ripe vintage, full and substantial fruit, more than decent acidity and a good long run to stay in the secondary zone for this length of time. More phenolic than expected, hanging grippy with the lingering fruit in its leathery yet still juicy second stage. In better shape than the bottle of ’17 tasted side by each. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

From the word go the extra layer of ripe flesh is noted on this sauvignon blanc and at the “normale” level, as opposed to the “De La Tour,” which is the estate’s sauvignon blanc selection. Still there is no miss or lack for substance and ample everything involved, including sweet herbal perfume, lees, oiliness and natural sweetness of fruit. Impressive wine if just not the chosen one for Villa Russiz, though the length is excellent. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon De La Tour 2008, Collio DOC

The Villa Russiz selection, from the top sauvignon cru, chosen from the De La Tour vineyard with the oldest block having been planted in 1982 (and others in 1987). Pour this without knowing the vintage and you might think somewhere between 2015 and even 2018 but 2008? Dios mío man. Fruit shining and fresh like yesterday before yesterday, ripe, ripped, muscular and of a power that shows grip without force, ripple minus tension. The tension is in the structure but it’s elastic and the wine adjusts to every stretch and pull. One of those impossible wines. Magic. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Green and herbaceous though nothing over the top in that regard. Fine enough if much like inexpensive Touraine with a tacky finish. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Pinot Grigio

In Collio, pinot grigio is surely at the lowest end of varietal importance and while trying to take it as seriously as the top grapes is not a thing, no one is going to make a bad pinot grigio, even for commercial purposes. Across the river in Isonzo it’s a different story and the variety has been very good to many producers. Back in Collio the top vineyard sites are given to ribolla gialla, friulano, malvasia and to an extent also sauvignon. The thing is pinot grigio is not fussy and will grow just about anywhere

Angoris Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

On the skins for a few hours for coppery hue and rustic elements creating early interest. Not very aromatic though it feels like some complexity waits in the shadows. Peach skin, lime, even lemongrass and then true sapidity. Well done. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ascevi Luwa Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, flaccid and soft pinot grigio. No real aromatic profile save for a nutmeg or cinnamon note with mild scented apple skin. Peach tisane and sapid. Easy, phenolic and then a mineral finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Branko Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Reminds more of the Grigio’s made in other parts of northeastern Italy and so Collio does not stand out in terms of this wine’s personality. A gram or two of residual sugar works in cohorts with the salty and sapid elements of the wine to create a near fleshy and balanced experienced, this in spite of some underripe green notes in the wine. Successful enough, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Fresh, upbeat and some unresolved sulphides needing agitation to blow off. Just an hour or two of skin contact brings an added element of phenolic surprise without risk and with warranted reward. A technically spot on pinot grigio if not a particularly curious one of any sort of untamed personality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Grigio Joy 2021, Collio DOC

Aromatics led by the uncanny scent of cotton candy and a banana-ester element. Good thing these aromatics, so that the neutral demons of pinot grigio are exorcized but something more herbal, sapid or even salty would better serve the notion of complexity. Felt like Rosé with some residual sugar, more than noticeable wood and not quite balancing acidity. Joyous if just a bit of cloy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Draga Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

No lack for time spent on skins to turn out coppery hue and stewed red fruit notes. Strawberry yes but also red currant, pomegranate and rhubarb. A mess of a salad and that’s the heart of this pinot grigio’s matter. Stays in balance with just enough acidity and in the end it’s almost a Rosato though the vinyl note on the finish suggests just a bit of acetic volatility. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Pinot Grigio Rocciaponca 2022, Collio DOC

Salty iteration, less phenolic grip and bite while primarily of a neutral, non-aromatic effect. Tarragon and just a faint hillside bushiness. Good vibrancy on the palate, again salinity and admirable intensity. Still quite neutral though there is a nice balancing effect created by late arriving bitters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

More skin contact than most – this much we know from the hue somewhere between platinum and copper. Neutral aromatics, perhaps a steely situation. Definitely a matter of phenolics and sapidity, just a hint of strawberry to stewed rhubarb. Simple and innocuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

A few hours on the skins delivers the platinum gold hue for pinot grigio with purpose, above and beyond the neutral average. Some CO2 buzz on the palate, yeasty, tannin and extract as well. That said the salinity is a step ahead of the sapidity and so phenolics are kept in check. Does eventuate at that sort of botanical end, but with subtlety and fine balance. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Ripe and extracted, especially for 2022. Really into peach, without any noticeable citrus and no oak to cover or obfuscate the obvious estate style. Lees however, which subdues the vibrancy. Captures the sapid grip and delivers a simple plan, executed without equivocation. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Peel back the skin contact curtain and this pinot grigio by Kurtin is aromatic indeed, in fact there are more fruit, mineral and elemental scents than most. Great fruit in fact with subtle and shadowy phenolics, botanicals and bitters. Beautifully made and a joy to sip. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Pinot Grigio Braide Grande 2022, Collio DOC

Livon, Livon likes its grigio. They make a lot they say. They spend their days smiling, with success, the neutral grape will play. Simple. Tart, herbal, a good tug between salty and sapid. Middle road taken and well made. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio DOC

Oxidative. Long skin contact, raisins and figs, wood-induced caramel as well. Orange, peach and pomegranate. A made wine, void of place and certainly a conundrum. Feels like a sparkling base wine laden with autolysis and phenols. A pinot grigio with a statement, a winemaker’s art if misconceived and yet to find its aesthetic. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Something next level in the aromas – in fact the nose delivers in a way that most pinot grigio do not. A concentration that intimates florals and the scrape of citrus skins – a few of them. More salty than sapid and then fine natural sweetness indicating fruit concentration with a streak of stony salinity running through. Surely a pinot grigio of lower yields and more attention paid to agricultural details. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Herbaceous for pinot grigio, not green but definitely up there with a faux pyrazine elemental airiness. Also some CO2 buzz to lighten and refresh so that energy and vitality are elevated. Carries that white peppery grüner veltliner feeling and then finishes at juniper in the G & T botanical way. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russian Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Longest amount of skin contact here, not orange per se but akin to Rosato or en route to such an idea out of the rub from a white or green grape. Quite rustic and ropey, salty and faux sweet, surely tart and also phenolic. Builds character because the palate delivers fun and fruity flavours, in part with help from some extra CO2. Much better in the end than what first seemed impossible early on. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Neutral in every respect, separated from the skins with haste, fermented in neutral vessels and not a moment of lees anywhere to be found. Carbon filtered to keep the wine as innocuous, ambiguous and clean as possible. Fait accompli. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, salty and relatively neutral as far as pinot grigio from Collio is concerned. Energy all around in the sense that the grape and place do this professional style better, if only because vineyard quality, lower yields and makers with the acumen to do great things all conspire for an elevated varietal experience. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Reductive and agitation does help to put this in proper vintage steading. It would seem like not perfectly clean lees mar the entry and first transition though the wine straightens itself and gets to where it needs to go. Some sour moments and fine in the end. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

No real skin soak and yet full fruit comes across out of an ideal vintage to make pinot grigio with the added bonus of Collio vineyards. Fleshy, technically clean and sound, a joy to sip and all around winner, now matter the reason for wanting or needing a glass. This will suit everyone’s needs. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Sound, proper and expectations filled for Collio pinot grigio without any noticeable winemaking actions taking centre stage. No Malo, lees, skin contact or otherwise distractions from good and clean vintage fruit purposed to a reliable and well conceived drinking wine. Really proper, flesh and bone in the mix and admirable length too. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2010, Collio DOC

In a lovely state of oxidation, caramel and phenolics now sweetened and fattened, acids still intact and the wine hanging like a flag blowing softly in a breeze. Honeyed but the fruit still leave s a dry impression; like one of those infused and savoury kinds with mellifluous texture. Freshness and what feels like cooler vintage. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted blind at the estate, July 2023

Robert Princic of Gradisciutta

Collio Bianco

The Collio Bianco is surely the place where each producer finds its artistic and territorial expression, but it also determines their expertise at blending. At Gradis’ciutta in San Floriano del Collio we practiced as “Apprentice Winemakers” for a morning and made our own Collio Bianco blends. Godello’s was coined “Stranieri” for obvious reasons, number one being that he was an interloper in this Collio Bianco game. His blend was led by ribolla gialla at 40 percent, followed by friulano (30), pinot grigio (18) and finally malvasia (12). It seems his concep[tualiztion differed greatly than that of the Gradis’ciutta 2022 Collio Bianco. Their’s was based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. Other grapes allowed from those grown on the estate can be müller thurgau, picolit, riesling italico, riesling and traminer aromatico. The first and last of those cannot exceed a total of 15 percent of the blend.

Blending Collio Bianco at Gradis’ciutta

A producer’s top varietal expression can be labeled as Collio Bianco, including with the use chardonnay though there is a trend towards only using endemic varieties to make the Bianco. “Collio Bianco is both business card and calligram. Though the autochthonous varietal triumvirate of ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia are the bones of Collio’s body politic, international grape varieties like pinot bianco, sauvignon and chardonnay add much to act as representatives of the heart, head, mind, body and soul of the producers. Ultimately it is the Collio Bianco that have emerged as front runners for spokes-wines of the place. The appellative white blends unite and really tie the territorial room together. An immersive week spent in the small Friuli-Venezia-Giulia outpost of Collio will change you, that much is true. The primary takeaway concerned wines of performance without obstacles, fluid achievements free of interruption, representing the vital energy and élan of their territory. Unbeknownst to many they are filled with an unfamiliar blissfulness, for how all will be realized.”

Collio Bianco blends

Angoris Langòr Collio Bianco DOC 2019

Simple, well made and effective Collio Bianco if much more phenolic than most. Likely a matter of friulano at the lead and malvasia very much a part of the mix. Solid, spicy, not perfectly clean, salty and not really traditional. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2022

The blend in ’22 is 50 percent friulano plus (25 each) ribolla gialla and sauvignon, all from one vineyard in the southern most part of Collio. Oriented northeast where the winds come through the valley in Brazzano for a cooler site within. Still the typical Ponca soils and specifically the Flysch of marine origin in Cormons. Special sort of citrus, an inward intensity and a mix of white grapes making for many layers. No compression but rather a breathable porousness so that the wine feels light and airy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2021

Stoic, high confidence if humble and classic Collio Bianco that is just about as linear as it is predicated on quality hill-raised fruit. Just seems to get it and deliver the authentic experience for the appellation. A clear reflection of human touch and land by way of a blend to tell a relatable story. Structure is also present for several years of aging. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Collio Bianco “Da Uve Autoctone” 2021, Collio Bianco DOC

Only made from endemic varieties and the Produttori wears it on its sleeve by declaring this on the bottle. Da Uve Autoctone, meaning ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia, the holy trinity and the ones to speak of the Ponca soils. Clean, apple, vintage-relatable, juicy and fleshy. Dictionary entry right here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2022

Based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. From vineyards in Bratinis and Zavognica, juicy as it gets and made lively by the specific Ponca soils prevalent in these two growing areas. Fruit is indeed yellow, blossoms are in bloom and exoticism is the way of this Bianco blend. For enjoyment, not cellaring. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2018

A Collio Bianco aged well should come to this. Lightly caramelized, balanced and refined. That is the case for Bràtinis, a blend pulled from three plots; Bràtinis, Zavognza and Ruttars at elevations ranging from 150 to 180m, all on Ponca soils. Lovely gelid lemon curd, an oily fatness and spice, plenty of salt and pepper spice. Luxe and balanced. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco Riserva DOC 2017

Riserva sees a minimum of 20 months in wood, as per the disciplinare of the Collio Consorzio. A fully formed, resolved and now mature 2017 here with flesh but also green apple crunch and bite. Quite spiced and peppery, tart, tight and high acid. Really interesting Collio Bianco! Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Korsič Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Maturing quickly, falling into oxidative behaviour and like green apple sauce at this early stage. Also aldehydic, phenolic and olive oil fruity. Not certain this was the intention but generous wood and warm vintage fruit have aligned for this kind of character. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Livon Collio Bianco DOC Solarco 2021

Well integrated, mostly seamless and properly structured Collio Bianco here from Livon with notable wood accents, nutty spice and a vanilla-caramel swirl. Nothing big in that regard mind you but the style is duly noted. Feels dominated by sauvignon, not surprising considering Livon sits right in the heart of that varietal country. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Collio Bianco DOC Studio Di Bianco 2019

Lovely and authentic style of Collio Bianco from Alessandro Pascolo, fruit ripe, fleshy, layered and properly integrated. A style with oak done so well, not lacking for energy and incorporating all its elements with distinction. That includes soils and place, which is Ruttars…but also riesling. Petrol comes across. Not to mention some age that will beget more age worthiness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Picech Jelka Collio Bianco DOC 2017

Notable oxidative lean and downward dive here from a six year-old Collio Bianco. Vanilla, oh so much vanilla, caramel and even nutty butterscotch. Has seen its best days fall by the wayside. Tasted July 2023

Ronchi Rò Collio Bianco DOC Bon Frut Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Bon Frut, a play on words meaning both “good son,” (figlio) in dialect and also good fruit. Really ripe and well layered mix of the endemic and obvious sauvignon, juicy as Collio Bianco can be. Intersect of tart and tang, natural fruit sweetness and proper salt and pepper seasoning. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Collio Bianco DOC Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Apple juice, pyrazine and simplicity to nose. More interest and complexity on the palate with salty and also sapid moments though certainly juicier than it is phenolic. The grip is not a tannic one but rather built on extract and pressed fruit. Powerful yet refined in that regard. Solid wine with plenty of energy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2020

Built on 70 percent friulano with chardonnay and malvasia, from four vineyards of all four expositions. Each vineyard is harvested with several passes, terraces at the base of the hill in the north, east and west coming off first. Baskets are chilled and three to four hours skin contact in the press. A few days or a week later the middle hills are taken, save for the south exposition. Only one or two nights skin contact on this fruit. The last pick is taken when the skins have browned, picked quickly and these grapes are in precarious shape. Three set of tanks withy three different wines. The seeking of three pillars to eventually be layered, of freshness, roundness and aftertaste. All three are there, golden hue and aromatic piquancy, warm and viscous, up there at 14.3 percent abv and liquid peppery, with beeswax and paraffin. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2019

Flinty, barrel fermented style like Bourgogne (Meursault especially) in an ambitious Collio Bianco that would not surprise if it were made with a healthy amount of chardonnay. Good use of wood, fulsome and able-bodied, well integrated once you get past the initial gun smoke reduction. Long finish puts this in good steading for some positive aging to happen. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Reductive and a bit stinky to be honest and a consistency of style for the house. Pyrazine, esters and also a wooly fuzziness. Mossy, lactic and peaty. Dios mio. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Cucco Wine 2022, Venezia-Giulia IGT

By now simply classic Friulian skin-contact white wine, peach tea colour, guaranteed to represent the category, as sure as the sun will rise and set. Three-varietal “bianco” called Cucco, as in the “darling” or “favourite,” made from malvasia, pinot grigio and friulano. Extremely clean example, ideal for those who like skin macerated whites and also for those who think they don’t. There is a natural sweetness of fruit and more than enough citrus to instil energy from start to finish. Villanova gets this style down and it simply turns out right. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023

Villa Russiz Collio Bianco DOC Maisha 2021

First question to ask is whether the varieties matter or should such a wine simply express as a sum of its parts. Well I can tell you there is much happening here and there is a feeling of compression, weight and especially alcohol. A bit heavy, caramelized, stewed even. So much wood and maturity as well, oxidative, warm and soft. Like well-oaked chardonnay for full-bodied red wine lovers who choose to drink white wine. Could very well be a 12-plus year-old Beringer Private Reserve. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Maisha Collio 2016, Venezia-Giulia IGT

A mix of friulano (60 percent) and at the time also likely ribolla gialla, the artist fast forward five years to 2021 where it will become Collio Bianco DOC (and also include malvasia). Feels like the white of 15 years ago were less botanical and phenolic, or perhaps that’s how long it takes to shed that grippy quality, but ’16 lands right in between. A creamy vintage that persists like this, obviously a ripe one and more friulano in character than ribolla, by far. This style is not made any more and the Collio Bianco that has replaced it is higher in both quality and also style. Tasted July 2023

Other varieties – Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Nero

Korsič Merlot Del Collio 2020, Collio DOC

Fabian Korsič is on San Fernando di Collio, there since 1969, first having bottled in 2011. There are six hectares, of merlot but also pinot grigio, chardonnay, ribolla gialla, malvasia and friulano. The future holds varietal cards and a Collio Bianco. The merlot comes frpon one hectare, was a steel ferment then aged in barriques and tonneaux, 20 percent new. Hard to imagine a constructed merlot more elegantly composed, full and concentrated. Fruit execution, structure complimentary and serving the fruit with reverence. Nothing out of place and will age gracefully for up to 10 years. Oak so well judged so that the sweetness outpaces austerity and also astringency. As impressive as it gets for merlot from Collio. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Bianco Santarosa 2018, Collio DOC

A solo pinot bianco, one of the varieties that owner Loretto Pali took a risk to plant and develop, much to the suspicions of some local farmers and producers. Look at where this grape has come in Capriva del Friuli and this may just be the place where it is most favoured. Lemon in many ways, some density, luxe character and unctuousness. Big yes to pinot bianco. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Nero Casanova 2018, Collio DOC

The other grape admitted by and invested in by owner Loretto Pali is pinot nero treated with respect and even reverence, especially for Collio. Here the plantings are less than one percent of the total and to be honest this example is as dense and developed as any, in spite of the challenges, namely ripeness, rain and humidity. Well-pressed and as a result both high toned and also austere at the finish. Liquorice, tar and density. Still needs another year in spite of the vintage going back to 2018. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Merlot Torriani 2018, Collio DOC

One of the two red grapes grown for a long time in Collio is merlot, along with cabernet sauvignon. What was always the everyday wine in the bars and restaurants is under new command, especially at Castello di Spessa. Quite a good vintage to eek out raspberry fruit but like the pinot nero, also liquorice and tar which speaks to place being stronger than variety. Chewy merlot, some strength and grip, resolving and pretty much ready to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

Hard to compare chardonnay to any of the more local grapes, including sauvignon and so on its own its level is high, of buttery richness and luxe fruit from an accumulation of warm vintage sunshine. Well made, chewy and with enough acid to keep it alive and well. Solid work with a slightly nutty to metallic finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Merlot 2013, Collio DOC

Warm, end of secondary life, edging and easily hinting towards the tertiary. Dried raspberry and a chalky Ponca underlay that shows the terroir right now, even if it lay beneath the wood before. The wood flavours are still apart of the mix and so the style and winemaking are clearly still on display. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villanova Merlot 2020, Collio DOC

The vineyard is Ronci San Giovanni, “the other hill,” a terroir with the same Ponca soil composition. The only Villanova red produced in the Collio DOC and spends two years between tonneaux and barriques. Idea is elegance meets structure and you know something, both are imagined with some easy fantasy. The berries are bluish red in flavour and acids are cool, sweet and supportive of a truly supple wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

It may be chardonnay and some of the vines may date back several decades but close your eyes and imagine this to be one of several white varieties raised in the Russiz hills; tells us how the Ponca terroir, Capriva micro-climate and time have all worked towards this means. That must be appreciated, talked about and celebrated. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

The cabernet sauvignon vines went in the ground in 2001 and here sit it’s grapes fermented into wine, comfortably and persistent in 2023. Impressive stature, in its second decade, poured 10 years after vintage. Chalky still, clearly structured and there must have been some fine summer through harvest weather to prepare this fruit for the kind of life in longevity it is clearly showing. The wood must have been problematic and overbearing for a while but it and the tannin have subsided to make way for the acids to be the current catalyst to buoy fruit and make this a current cabernet of undeniable pleasure. More magic from Villa Russiz. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

At Villa Russiz with Serena Delorenzi and Kennya Da Cruz

Villa Russiz Pinot Nero 2008, Collio DOC

Though 2008 pinot noir can’t hold a candle to the same vintage of sauvignon there is no doubt that it too has survived well going forward 15 years. Some caramel for sure, a tar and candied rose sensation, liquorice, herbal char and acids still moving with sharp edging. Good though not optimum shape yet all things considered a remarkable bit of longevity. From a 1994 planting. Tasted July 2023

Good to go!

godello

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WineAlign

Revisiting Mullineux’s latest releases with the visiting Chris Mullineux

Sep1

With Chris Mullineux

Sometimes I hang with Chris too. In April of 2023 Chris Mullineux was in town and so I was thrilled to welcome him into my home. It was such a pleasure to play the host for a change. Time was too short but we managed to cover in-depth discussions about Swartland sites, cool-climate Stellenbosch, heritage vines under the auspices of the Old Vines Project, oxidative chardonnay winemaking and winemaker Gynore Hendricks’ beautiful, sustainable and profitable project called Great Heart Wines.

Most of the wines he poured were those that I had recently tasted on his side of the pond in the Western Cape back in October of 2022. It was with winemaker (and Chris’ wife) Andrea that I did most of those tastings and so this new revisit offered a new perspective. The couple are remarkably synched up but have different ways of expressing the nature of their farming and resulting wines. Not to mention my own second look with six further months in bottle. Reviews on all these wines first tasted with Andrea are now updated. Meanwhile, talk to Nicholas Pearce Wines about sourcing these South African lekkers.

Chris Mullineux

Before getting to the wines I asked Chris about the most recent vintage and harvest. “Not crazy hot, but Swartland was really dry and we began picking really early – January 15th. We were done just after February. It started raining just as we began picking Leeu Passant. In Stellenbosch you need a week of sun to drive out after rain and winds do not have to happen, (nor is it necessarily) common. In 2023 it kept raining from March 20 onwards but Leeu (Passant) was mostly picked 90 per cent in. There was some dilution to the fruit. In other words complex from beginning to end of harvest. With cabernet sauvignon that means 13-13.5 percent alcohol. We are a sunny place so the terroir must give a sense of place and that means ripeness – therefore cinsault in warm locations needs to be up there.” Returning to this remarkable set of Mullineux-raised and quintessential Western Cape wines, here are my notes from that day.

Mullineux Old Vines White 2021, WO Swartland

A style of South African white wine essentially started by Eben Sadie with Palladius back at the turn of the century. “Right away in 2001 when I first tasted it,” says Chris Mullineux, “it just made so much sense for the Swartland.” Adding some verdelho now, has only been the Swartland for 10 years but it’s really creeping in all over the Cape. It adds up to 14 percent alcohol, 9 TA and grippy phenolics to add force with some softer and generous white wines in the blend. This is vintage number 14 so if you like to think about things in lucky 7s then do the math and see this on the heels of what just must have been a most terrific 2014. The Granite and Schist ’14 Syrahs are pieces of Swartland heaven. Last tasted April 2023

The chenin blanc involved is from vines up to 70 years old, two times into heritage status, refined in nature. here not a matter of more density but yes increased extract. Also contains viognier, clairette blanche, grenache blanc sémillon gris and verdelho. Crunchy as old whites come, especially this one, with just that righteous and ripping amount of alighted flintiness, lightning strike and claps of granite thunder. About two thirds are grown on the fine sandy, decomposed granite while schist, iron and quartz add grip, flesh and roundness. Full and layered composition of greatness. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Chenin Blanc Schist Roundstone 2021, WO Swartland

Planted on the shallow rocky soils of the Kasteelberg. More sunshine on the tiny berries which doles out big but oh so beneficial concentration. The grapes are thick-skinned and so pay attention to the finish to note phenolic spiciness. So much fruit and that grip mix together, also with thanks to the dappled sun effect for an eventuation at what we mark as complexity. Great intensity and because the wine carries so much extract there is a pause, a four second pause before the phenols show there attitude, passing again, returning, in between creamy textural moments and fruit repeats. The wine has to be dry to show this way, to elevate Swartland’s specific acidity and natural Chenin blanc behaviour. Last tasted April 2023

Roundstone, aka “ronde steen or rondklip” in Afrikaans but the farm is known by its English name. Another Western Cape account for struggling grapes while here the matter involves smaller canopies, clusters and grapes. The vineyard begets and raises a child of the land’s stony “dakteëls,” roof tiles where everything slides and so the tannins accentuate to procure wines of a certain toughness. This child is street smart and battle ready, got into a few fights in the early days, now able stand up for itself no matter the attack or the scene. Aromatically speaking there is a cheese rind scent in the dry comports of extreme aridity, resulting in intensity and directivity. A slightly higher pH makes this the sapid one, sliding across the palate with its über fresh scathe. This will age with the best of them, more like structured reds but so very capable as chenin blanc. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Syrah 2019, WO Swartland

If you think about the entirety of the Swartland as a painting this syrah would be representative of the entire landscape. Comes off of Paardeberg granite and also Kasteelberg slate, on average 80 percent whole cluster but no carbonic, to allow the perfumes of both to play their parts. The iron soils bring the tomato leaf and meatiness and the aromatics leap with or without challenged cause by the fourth and last year of the Western Cape’s drought. Before flowering half the crop was eliminated, knowing the end result would be a tiny production but freshness, concentration and ultimately no stress balance Back in ’16 the vines dropped their own fruit to compensate in full abort mission. So much was learned that in ’17 the policy of one bunch per shoot became drought year religion. To find more fullness in syrah with iron cladding and flitting fillings like this is nearly impossible but this is how Mullineux delivers a sense of place. Broad in terms of wide open Swartland but if you want a definition, here it reads like an open book. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted April 2023

All syrah and nothing but from a combination of iron, schist and granite soils. Made in “large” upright wooden vats, for the grandness and roundness of Cape syrah’s capability, followed by cool grip, converting what was into what needs. And wants, inclusive of evergreen, meat juices and mainly perfume. There is an amenable nature, a nurturing and a caring is sharing sensibility to syrah, expressly as what it means to be Mullineux, part Andrea and part Chris. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Syrah Iron 2020, WO Swartland

From the rolling hills around Malmsebury, in between the mountains, ancient soils, weathered, stable and red iron rich, even with some clay. Comes away at 12.6 per cent alcohol but the site brings power and natural intensity. Very focused and precise for the terroir in fact it screams sanguinity and tomatoes through leaves and paste. So South African in the most complimentary and can’t turn away kind of way. Acids run high though they are circulative on the palate and the wine carries some tar, char and the finish takes your breath away. So much character, personality and intensity. The right grape farmed properly in the right place can make this happen. Drink 2023-2035. Tasted April 2023

Leeu Passant Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, WO Stellenbosch

Three vineyards together on the False Bay side of Stellenbosch. This is a piece of regional diversity, near to Somerset West, picked ripe late in April, only finishing at 13.5 percent. Only a piece of Stellenbosch like this can extend a season for a wine like this, of fully south facing part way from the Helderberg, with rich clay-iron soils, against the ocean. The most elastic, stretchable, seamless and pliable cabernet sauvignon imaginable. Freshness and firmness coexist so that you can drink whenever you like and also lay some down for two decades. Last tasted April 2023

Inspired by the old sophisticated graphite model, here cabernet sauvignon is drawn from the mid slopes of the Helderberg. The 2020 resides where richness and structure meet at a point determined through optimum picking and acumen. Moves from first year 500L wood to large 2500L vat and this is truly an ode to what was once a fixture of style in the Western Cape, albeit with modern beauty, current sensibility and truths spoken. The vines are 40 years old (as of 2020) and really just beginning to take ownership of the old vine necessity, aka they now sit in their pre-LP, shorter EP state. Cassis and fynbos combine for true a genesis of Cape cabernet sauvignon authority, but also what simply has to be. The question is whether or not this wine will continue its course of wind and wuthering. Will it remain tied to tradition with progressive style or begin to play with pop structures. What we know is that this vintage allows us to spot the grape, place, match of the day, inside and out, and pigeons. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2022

Leeu Passant Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch

“For me this allows us to work with Chardonnay unlike anywhere else, from Chablis to other parts of the Western Cape,” explains Chris Mullineux. In a way there is an extreme saltiness, made through death and resurrection, of no sulphuring for the first 18 months. Anything in the wine can and is oxidizing so it’s perfectly stable and then cleaned up ahead of bottling, racked off the lees post malo, then sulphured which binds the aldehydes and any oxidative properties so that it comes away so clean, and tight. You can do this so long as the vineyard site is tops. Chardonnay that is bullet proof, without the bends. Can age as well as any on the planet. Last tasted April 2023

Chris and Andrea Mullineux started the project in 2013 with the help of viticulturist Rosa Kruger. “New” vineyards were unearthed and rehabilitated through four solid years of re-pruning, re-training and re-working of the soils. Then the wines could begin being made. A deconstruction and reconstruction, now seven years in and entering the opening gambit of true maturity stage for what is one of South Africa’s most unique heritage collections. Leeu means lions, a reference to a meandering walkabout, personified in these wines. They are made in the Franschhoek winery, certified organic, coming of age in their foray into regenerative agriculture, which says Andrea Mullineux, “in the southern hemisphere also means cultural and worker sustainability practices.” The 2020 is as fine a reductive but mainly lightning acidity charged chardonnay as a vineyard can determine. Located in the upper mid-slopes of the Helderberg facing the Strand with a clear view of False Bay. That said or perhaps out of necessity this is made in an oxidative way, which makes sure to keep the flinty and salty faith alive. The ’20 is possessive of fibres, threads, strings and wires braided to make a layered whole. Finesse and sophistication co-exist in a vacuum where waves crash upon one another in great open space, with no shore for to finish. If you would like to experience chardonnay in a way you’ve not likely done before than swim all the way out, well offshore, all in, all the way to this place. Turn around and off into the deep distance, gaze upon the strand. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Great Heart Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland

Great Heart is the special project for Gynore Hendricks who is assistant winemaker at Mullineux and she is joined by 21 other employees who profit from this wine’s special success. Old and young vines fruit, similar winemaking to Mullineux but only aged in steel. Freshness and fruit intensity yet precise, crisp and steely. On the lees (unstirred) with Swartland’s natural creaminess. Last tasted April 2023

This a newer project from Chris and Andrea Mullineux whereby the profits from these Swartland wines go to the owners of the label, they being the employees at Mullineux and Leeu Family Wines. The South African Wingtail is the mascot, a selfless bird and a beautiful one at that. This is chenin blanc of richness and most apropos, also of great generosity. So much ripe fruit and philanthropy. Quintessentially chenin while so eager to please. Talk about great heart in South Africa. Here it shows in the most human of ways. Drink 2021-2023. Tasted September 2021

Mullineux Great Heart Red Blend 2021, WO Swartland

The syrah is from the Mullineux sites, the tinta barocca from Adi Badenhorst’s Jakaalsfontein farm and the cabernet sauvignon comes from granitic Paardeberg. Great energy, brightness and pure varietal intensity. A terrific red counterpoint to the Great Heart chenin blanc by winemaker Gynore Hendricks as the leader of a project befitting and benefitting nearly two dozen Mullineux employees. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted April 2023

Mullineux Great Heart Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Swartland

Vines from next to the Heldeberg, south facing, cooler and like the Leeu Passant the season runs long, phenolics slowly develop and yet the young vines create a quicker to access freshness and energy compound. This has the bokser effect in red wine. Last tasted April 2023

As a Mullineux wine Great Heart cabernet sauvignon feels akin to the highly focused Leeu Passant Stellenbosch varietal wine (aka the Helderberg Mountain bottling). As a concept Great Heart is all about staff empowerment in wines made by owners with a piece of the business. This is cultural sustainability at its finest, seeing livelihood improvements for members of the winery and their families. Like the LP cabernet sauvignon this performs as an “ode to what was once a fixture of style in the Western Cape, albeit with modern beauty, current sensibility and truths spoken.” Cassis and fynbos, tradition and progressive spirit. Quality combinations in all respects, forever searching for great heart in South Africa. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Mullinuex Olerasay Straw Wine 2021, WO Swartland

After the drought, cool and late vintage, with plenty of kept acidity. Same chenin that goes in the wild vines wine, picked same day, then air-dried for three weeks. Pressed and ferments for nine months. Only three weeks because it’s done outside. The sugar is approximately 300 g/L and the alcohol 18.5, TA at 11. So pure, lemon brûlée, marmalade and balanced. Brilliant Straw wine. 6,000 bottles made. “We make more straw wine than anyone in the world,” says Chris Mullineux. “One acre equals one bottle of wine.” When asked why do you do it? “Because its great wine and it’s part of who we are.” Heritage and imperative. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

Good to go!

godello

With Chris Mullineux

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

Irresistible South Africa

Jun29

Fynbos, Vergelegen Estate

Irresistible South Africa of exceptional quality at every price level, LCBO limited time offers and lingering memories of another unforgettable Cape Wine

as seen on WineAlign

This feature was commissioned by Wines from South Africa

Eight months have passed since my last great journey to the wine lands of South Africa’s Western Cape and memories nor great heart have faded even just one bit. The Cape’s beauty is everywhere, breathtaking beauty, at every turn, in vineyards, across estates and especially in people that give their all to craft some of the world’s most special wines. That is why the coming weeks present an opportunity by way of an increased presence and access because Wines of South Africa and the LCBO teem up once again. Prepare to be smitten by an offer of a set of Cape wines that collectively speak to both quality and value. Undervalued already, these limited time offers (LTOs) deliver a diverse set of varietal wines and appellative blends at prices 50 percent below what these wines are worth. To pass them by and not take advantage would be crazy. These are your summer wines, laid out like a shilling dinner and only a fool would scuffle past without purchase.

The LCBO’s Destination Collection includes the “Discover the Wines of South Africa” promotion headline that reads “with a 350-year winemaking tradition, South Africa blends high-quality production with eco-friendly practices, making it one of the most exciting and earth-friendly wine regions around.” Truth spoken. The LCBO’s Limited Time Offer (LTO) Program provides suppliers and stores with an opportunity to build excitement and awareness while offering a discount on selected products. Rates to the supplier or agent are charged based on the full reduction in retail for the number of units sold at the LTO price. Mandatory Pre-printed LTO (flat rate) signage costs are $1,500.00 per product, per Promotional Turn. To qualify for the program, a minimum discount of five percent or $1.00 per package (whichever is less) must be offered at retail. The maximum discount allowed is 20 percent off the regular retail price. Limited Time Offers start on the first Monday and end on the last Sunday of each Promotional Turn. The Wines of South Africa P4 offer is an opportunity for customers to spend a total of $30 on any South African wines to receive 40 APP (Aeroplan Points) and runs from Monday, June 19th through to Sunday, July 16th. See below for a WineAlign crü Buyers’ Guide to current LCBO and VINTAGES Essentials LTOs for South African wines.

Godello and Szabo in Hermanus

John Szabo MS and I were in the Cape together back in October of 2022 and over at WineAlign he has penned a piece he calls “Investment grade South African wines for the cellar.” It will be worth your time to open up a separate tab to read up on John’s outlook. As he explains here, “which, ounce for ounce, consistently overdeliver on sheer quality and pleasure for the price. Add in longevity and the capacity to develop and improve over many years, and you have the recipe for investment grade wine, especially if you consider it an investment in future pleasure and care less about re-selling the wines down the road for profit.”

Ernie Els Estate, Stellenbosch

Reminiscences are part of everyday life but anyone who has traveled through South Africa will find those particular recollections as strong and vivid as any. Back in February I penned my post-Cape Wine 2022 article Seeing Western Cape stars: A guide to Cape Wine 2022 with a recounting of regenerative and creative farming, old vines, new frontiers, 80 recommended current releases and the deliciously addictive South African snack known as braai brekkies. Despite that post’s lack of brevity there was simply no way to fully package 11 days of tasting, eating, conversing and trekking in the Western Cape. Not to mention how much time it truly takes to fully assimilate and gain a deep understanding of what was seen, heard and felt on that trip. I am no stranger to extensive travel but there is no wine producing country that gets under your skin and keeps you perpetually energized like South Africa. Fatigue and jet lag are non issues but being anxious about missing something or skipping moments where the incredible are guaranteed to happen – now these are real issues. So allow me some latitude to recall and expand on some quintessential Cape moments. After two unforgettable visits in 2015 and 2018, the third Cape Wine expedition is now cementing into the stuff of legend.

Celebrating Rosa Kruger in Cape Town

The certification system for of Old Vines

It begins, as it must, with South Africa’s cast of characters, the beloved Old Vines Project’s André Morgenthal, original concierge of Wines of South Africa and Rosa Kruger, progenitor of the OVP. As I previously noted, “Over the past 20 years viticulturist (Kruger) has focused on discovering, classifying, cataloguing and certifying heritage vineyards. It was a great pleasure to chat with Kruger at a Wines of South Africa ceremony and tasting at Cape Wine 2022, which celebrated her 2022 Decanter Hall of Fame Award. And also with the legend (Morgenthal), orchestrator of the tasting of old vines wines. It is remarkable to see how many estates and producers have come on board — to celebrate and show off the wines they are making from 35-year-old (and older) dry-farmed bush vines. Many vines are even pushing or exceeding the century mark.” With thanks to André and Rosa there was an evening’s opportunity to taste dozens of certified old vines examples, many of which were covered in my last report. Here are but a dozen more worth knowing.

Chenin Blanc Data

Signatory authority Chenin Blanc

As for chenin blanc, if you are a grower, producer or winemaker in the Western Cape, signing a contract for yourself with chenin blanc, well then you’re good to go. Sign away. Planting, resurrecting, reviving, perpetuating and extenuating chenin blanc vine circumstances to make varietal wines is like finding and selling gold. Since 2011, local chenin blanc sales have doubled, including an 11 percent increase between 2021 to 2022, while total exports (packaged and bulk) have nearly tripled in that 11-year span, also with an 8.5 percent gain from ’21 to ’22. These increases have occurred because the chameleon can play in any sandbox and become anything a consumer wishes it to be – this despite total planted hectarage having decreased 10 percent since 2011. Name a grape tied to a place’s success anywhere near equal to the symbiotic relationship between chenin and the Western Cape? Please don’t say malbec and Mendoza. The future will always be chenin blanc, worldwide and especially here in Canada. Canadians have embraced and fallen sick in love. If you are already one of them, or even if you are yet to have sipped the Kool-Aid, there is always a next level chenin blanc waiting for you.

Old Vines Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester Vineyard

Zeroing in on sites in reds and whites

Soon enough it will be ten years since I first referred to growing anything and everything in the Western Cape as being akin to a viticultural “wild west.” The ancient geology split between decomposed granites, Malmesbury, Bokkeveld or Witteberg shales and Table Mountain sandstone make for the most diverse and paradoxically hospitable grounds where the varietal spectrum is encouraged. The morphology of my personal understanding grew to look at land and vine as something more focused and the map of varietal matched to place began to take shape. Writing here in 2023 brings white and red varietal wines, plus the coalescence into appellative blends into pinpointed accuracy where winemakers make their mark based on experiential decisions. Heritage vineyards are nearly always key, magical conversion rates create situations unparalleled, but the very presence of rampant sustainable and regenerative agriculture is what truly separates and indeed defines the wine production of South Africa. The Western Cape faces never-ending challenges because of isolation, climate extremes and internal political struggle but I have written this before. “The (wines) are too good to miss, not just a handful but hundreds of outstanding examples. Quality has risen exponentially, virtually across all places of origin, including new frontiers. The stars are out, and they are aligned.” I give you 30 further examples; varietal whites and reds, white and red blends, plus one dirty little secret.

With Adi Badenhorst

Varietal Whites

A.A. Badenhorst Chenin Blanc The Golden Slopes 2021, WO Swartland

Bottled mid January and released in May. Single vineyard, quick ferments, high fructose content avoided, no sulphur needed until just before bottling. From plantings going back to 1968 and through the 1970s, the Golden Slopes had usually been aged in foudres but now so much more in concrete “to preserve that raciness as long as possible.” A true cracker scintillant of chenin to be sure yet with all the ripeness in phenols plus stone fruit texture possible. A capture of the 2021 Swartland chenin blanc vintage without repose. “This is really all about vineyard,” insists Adi Badenhorst “and the way we like to farm.” There is a dream, to sit on the Golden Slopes beneath the stars while sipping a glass of 2021. Preferably in 2025. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2022

Alheit Vineyards Chenin Blanc Nautical Dawn 2021, WO Stellenbosch

Nautical Dawn as a single vineyard chenin blanc is drawn from a Paardeberg Mountain site with a view to the seaside and breathes out a defining wind that consistently blows through. Gusts of sodium run through this wine like no other member of the chenin blanc/old vines/Alheit temple. This is clearly a well established portent as elemental pierce, rehearsed without pause and arbitrarily close to the true value of the established parameter, in vintage after vintage. Lends this wine its distinct and cracker personality in a manner that is tight, bracing and complexly wound. Nautical Dawn carries itself with attitude and is a chenin blanc more than sometimes expressed as a great notion. From 2021 the values of place, experience and process concur to express inclination and ultimately belief. In Chris and Suzaan Alhet’s words, but even more so by their actions. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2022

Craven Wines Pinot Gris 2022, WO Stellenbosch

Jeanine and Mick Craven’s Stellenbosch pinot gris continues to thrive and evolve by way of its base soil, that being the Koffieclip complex which is more and more proving to be where this grape thrives. A bit of skin contact, maybe six or seven days, unchanged for several vintages now but this is anything but a white wine made like a red. This and aging in concrete are two of the great things about the method, but not the necessity of creating crazy fresh and crushable pinot gris. This is that but also something other, with sneaky structure and underlying mischief to make sure the years ahead will bring about new fascinations. This is a wine that has come a long way. Truly, as memory knows this to be true. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Crystallum Chardonnay The Agnes 2021, WO Western Cape

Five vineyards are contributors including three from the Hemel-en-Aarde-Ridge and older barrels nurture profound fruit for this the 15th vintage of a wine that first appeared in 2007. Perfectly staged, striped and reductive chardonnay, cracker piqued, peppery without any discernible overt pepper or capsicum. Wow, this hits the spot. Terrific “entry” chardonnay from Peter Allan and Andrew Finlayson. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted October 2022

David And Nadia Sadie Wines Plat’bos Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland

At a tasting where everything is Old Vines Project certified there must be something extraordinary about a wine to stand out from a crowd of greats. David and Nadia Sadie are in fact turning heritage vines chenin blanc (amongst other varietal explorations) into content born of context harboured though never paraded. They are rhythmic and scientific with just enough fantasy and romanticism, but never too much. Plat’Bos stands above Skaliekop and Hoë Steen because 2021 asks it to do so, not because it is better or more important, but it is surely chenin blanc profound. The 1981 Swartland planting is in the steady zone, shed of the mercurial and in ’21 so very linear yet salty of the earth in its sombre-sepulchral tone. There is reduction here because the poor soil nutrients demand that this chenin begins this way. The levels of tension and intensity are most elevated, sufficing to say as high as any from the Western Cape. Attention is paid unwavering to detail, sequencing is in order, purity incarnate, grape and place together pristinely kept. In Plat’Bos 2021 the palate is taken down to the whipping post by a wine built to endure. Given time there will be calm, healing and reward in the end. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted October 2022

Megan Mullis and Sharon Parnell, Domaine des Dieux

Domaine Des Dieux Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2018, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

From the start farming is opposite to chardonnay, exercised as Guyot pruning for a desire to increase yields as per what the variety will give and quality abides. Considered in unequivocal terms, this may just be the most, if perhaps the only Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and in fact the whole of the Western Cape’s sauvignon blanc that truly intimates Pouilly-Fumé. The mix of macerated fruit cup juiciness and subtle if gentle smoulder delivers the mimicry, a wet rock struck kiss and kindest nurturing, finishing at lit paraffin. The winemaking lends reason to grow, raise and perpetuate sauvignon blanc right here on this ridge, in perpetuity. So long as the handling is as careful as it is here, to create varietal beauty incarnate. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted October 2022

John Szabo MS, Anthony and Olive Hamilton-Russell and Godello

Hamilton Russell Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

The uncanny taste of indelible memory stamped South African chardonnay defines this wine though there is a candied aromatic feel in this iteration. Chewy texture, elastic and stretched, creamed centre, fluid and generous. All lemon and lime up front and then recoiling, returning and finishing the same way. Last tasted October 2022

A new return to a manageable vintage of warmth and generosity in which the beauty of Hemel-en-Aarde chardonnay comes across with sweeping charm, just as a vista will take in the scroll of hills, mountains and eventually fall, 100 kilometres away into the sea. The taut nature, tight control and expertly wound fruit behaviour follows a line of HR acidity like never before. The magnificence of the balance occupied by parts so known like home is what emanates from this chardonnay and the gracious people who make it. Can’t think of much better in South Africa. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2022

Huis Van Chevallerie Palomino Old Vines Spookberg 2021, WO Piekenierskloof

At harvest Christa von La Chevallerie is asked by the farmer “would you like three tonnes of palomino?” Who could say no to Spookberg, story of two wine lovers scouting the Swartland looking for the perfect old vines to tell stories the past? Know this about Christa von La Chevallerie. She is a Geisenheim-trained winemaker who checks her acid and pH numbers by sleeping in the vineyard, when others are on holiday. Christa knows the climate is changing and ever-menacing droughts are never the same twice. “Look at the sky and cry,” she says but fear not, for there is a way. The Spookberg recalls a castle and yes, ghosts as well and the parcel sits atop decomposed granite, direction Cederberg. Bloody great varietal wine because the fruit comes from this place, off of old vines and their destiny to Christa was all. The fino character is conditioned by both pH and acid in balanced conversion both mighty and releasing as sapid seriousness. No skin contact to mess things up, half de-stemmed, fermented in 400kg open bins. Wrapped, cooled and those whole bunches float on. They wait while the maker makes self-instructive demands. “Just have your hands on it and don’t be distracted by what you’re busy with. Keep the quality control.” These handsome old vines gift the best of both worlds; substantial South African fruit told as truth but also a quirk of idiosyncrasy because well, palomino. No interference, only a clear night’s signal and a varietal wine treated with respect.”They don’t like lava lamps.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2022

Le Bonheur Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch

Winemaker William Wilkinson is responsible for amassing a healthy quantity of this Stellenbosch chardonnay which makes the quality all that more impressive. Much of the fruit gains cooling benefit from the shadow of the Klapmutskop (Klapmuts Hill) which serves to extend the ripening season. Hard to get more lemon curd, zest and freshness than this with an undercurrent of fynbos that will never be denied. Clarity is one thing, length on a $16 chardonnay another. Will arrive in VINTAGES December 16th. Buy it up. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted June 2023

Leeu Passant Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch

Momento Wines Grenache Gris 2021, WO Voor Paardeberg

Voor Paardeberg and its decomposed granite make for a wonderland from which to pull grenache in blanc and also gris. The vineyard is but nine years old and sits peerless in South Africa but to no surprise it is Marlise Niemann who finds it and makes it her own. Seven days on skins to accentuate the already grey-pink hue but even more so the pull of red citrus and other fruit aromatics; strawberry, rhubarb, sumac, pomegranate, pink lady apple skin and then the savoury greens of nightshades, in mildly spicy capsicum and wandering inveterate tomato. Old wood for 10 months is the obvious and right choice to maintain, prolong and extend these scents and create the taciturn of Momento gestures so befitting Marlise’s wines. Salty, taut and fresh but likely only a few more months away from blooming. Still there is enough grip with intensity to hold its flush for two or three years. Oh my does this country need more grenache gris and though it is very slow to propagate in the nursery Marlise will plant more on her farm when it becomes ready. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Rall Wines Cinsault Blanc 2021, WO Swartland

Fifth vintage, from a single 0.2 hectare vineyard and the first from a time when Donovan Rall just got the grapes for the first time. Here now 1,300 bottles, a “huge” quantity, all raised in amphora from Hout Bay, “a crazy potter,” tells Rall. Not as porous and a tighter, reductive environment. Delivers the benefit of true concrete but through the texture of clay. This wine is about heritage, manifested in texture and salinity. And of course the Swartland. “I’ve never worked with conversion rates this low,” says Donovan and this cinsault is a testament to the excellence and magic of the vintage. With no compromise to flavour, tannin, acidity and length.” The low alcohol at 11.8 is brilliant as no push to ripeness was needed to achieve these heights. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Jeanine Bruwer, Springfield Estate

Springfield Estate Albariño 2020, WO Robertson

Huge surprise to happen upon albariño but here it is, planted in 2010 “because we had to,” explains Jeanette Bruwer, “after a trip to Uruguay where we tasted the coldest bottle of wine anywhere.” Allow me to translate that as refreshing and I believe only Springfield Estate and Newton-Johnson are raising the Minho variety. These Robertson vines are from Hemel-en-Aarde cuttings, now comprising 16 hectares. Clay and granite are the impetus to imagine this salty and quenching albariño that sees a cold maceration, free run, pulled away at day 14 and left at negative four degrees. Only tank for four months and reminiscent of making moscato d’Asti in that suspended gelid animation way – save for finishing much dried and at higher alcohol. Cleanest juice determines the refreshment and this may be the Cape understatement of the year. Amazing case study! Drink 2022-2024. Tasted October 2022

Varietal Reds

Hamilton Russell Ashbourne Pinotage 2020, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

“There is a pinotage renaissance happening here and elsewhere,” are the words of Anthony Hamilton-Russell. He and winemaker Emul Ross make this example that is a one of a kind signature wine that’s just about as readily recognizable as any in South Africa. Wood is in the background, plum fruit and acid up front, structure present from start to finish. Comes in at just under 13 per cent alcohol out of a vintage where the yeast conversion rates were down across the Western Cape. Yields are 7.19 hL/L, ugly economics to be sure but this is the nature of quality pinotage to speak with great heart about the varietal matter. It’s the back end of this wine where the magic happens, but first a slow incline, then the plateauing before a subtle pause commits towards a long future ahead. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2022

Kleine Zalze Grenache Vineyard Selection 2021, WO Stellenbosch

Quite ripe and heady grenache, chewy, clean and well extracted. Torque, as they say, a full 360 degree swing with balanced follow through. Hard not to note the Rhône influence and mimicry though in the end that Western Cape inimitability. Full grenache for your wishes and use of hard-earned cash. Meet the truth and real honour in this dedicated varietal wine. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Porseleinberg Syrah 2018, WO Swartland

The large vineyard is situated in the SE corner of the Swartland, above the Berg River. The Porseleinberg is a bit older so there is some sandstone with the granite or schist below. It’s sedimentary metamorphic with weathered, worn away soils, and hard, harsh, poor growing conditions. There is this feeling that 2018 has begun evolving just a slight amount out of a vintage that is all about red, red fruit with a plethora of tannins and extract off the charts. This vintage was set up to be a beast of one, a perfect storm of climate interacting with the moonscape. Hard not to be in accord with Callie Louw – it will last 50 years. There’s no doubt. Small berries with the most intensity in the skins. Picked at 14.3, warm vintage but so implosive, from drought condition, rain in late October and November, totalling 221mm. The tannins are of the longest and most exquisite chain imaginable. A pulpy syrah with a magnesium mineral-salty finish. Drink 2024-2045. Tasted October 2022

Craig Wessels, Restless River

Restless River Pinot Noir Le Luc 2021, WO Hemel-en-Aarde

Supremely, super-satisfyingly and aromatically saturated with all red fruits imaginable, of berries, stone and citrus. Blessed of high and layered tones, reaching a whole new level in terms of both composition and production. Layers pinot noir tracks upon tracks of perfume and flavour to create a richly symphonic sound. A wine of heightened awareness and a sensory grab to elicit awe by way of stunning melodies and lyrical themes. Sensory and musical, the Hemel-en-Aarde vinous equivalent of Pet Sounds, only instrumental, not wholly unexpected but surely fascinating and emotional. Something special indeed and likely RR’s best to date. A glass is such sweet happiness. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted October 2022

Reyneke Syrah Biodynamic 2020, WO Stellenbosch

Biodynamic and therefore 100 per cent estate fruit, a child of a fully submerged cap, sans pumpovers to create soft extraction, minimalist breakdown of the must and in the end a most gentle elevation in hue, aromatic perfume and poignancy. The glycerin texture and utter silk texture recalls wines like (Piemonte’s) Vajra and (Chianti Classico’s) Val delle Corti. There’s just something in this syrah-nebbiolo-sangiovese triumvirate vein that healthy grapes and adherence to maceration by way of capello sommerso winemaking will shed. Thinking on this as meaty is too basic as there are feelings of roasted nightshades, black olive tapenade and garrigue brush that consider syrah’s motherland and more so this sector of Stellenbosch. Complex and sink one’s teeth into. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2022

Saurwein Pinot Noir NOM 2021, WO Elandskloof

Jessica Saurwein’s profound (OM and NOM) pinot noir program is driven and focused, from two locations, the other being the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge of Hermanus at Walker Bay. Here the site is the Kaaimansgat Vineyard in the Elandskloof Valley located at Villiersdorp. NOM, as in the ability to change from animal to plant, something the world cries for, needs and will have, eventually, out of necessity. But Saurwein is clearly both hopeful and nostalgic, “like an Adam and an Eve, waterfalls, the Garden of Eden.” Her talking pinot noir could very well be drawn from the heads of Sonoma Coast heights, from a place of warm days, fog and cold nights. Elandskloof is such a place, where phenolics are written in naked terms, like pictographs in ancient caves. The ripeness tells a detailed story of two and half hectares of fruit in recall of a varietal story, of plants given to a winemaker who knows and treats them well. What else could they ask for? Purity and beauty are everything and if Kaaimansgat is not quite the same ethereality as that from the valley they call heaven and earth, so be it. The mouthwatering acidity, fleeting and transparent condition of this pinot noir is perfect.”We used to microwave. Now we just eat nuts and berries. You got it, you got it.” Drink 2023-2026. Tasted October 2022

Storm Wines Pinot Noir 2020, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

It was a happy accident that pinot noir was planted here upon the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley’s Bokkeveld Shale in a zone which shares great affinity with Bourgogne’s Côtes de Nuits. In addition to Storm the decision benefitted Hamilton Russell and Bouchard Finlayson, amongst others. The soil composition and specialized geography makes for a different style of pinot noir, from fine grains of soil layered with clay and decomposed granite. Just seems to liquify in varietal form replete with a ying-yang of natural sweet and savoury complements, but also inner silk threading and an outer layer of botanical sweat. Unique, fundamentally different, with ample tension and an impressive amount of potential. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

White Blends

Avondale Cyclus 2019, WO Paarl

White blend, driven by roussanne (30 per cent), with chardonnay, chenin blanc, viognier and sémillon. Round about 75 per cent whole bunch pressing, pressed off to old (500L) French barrels. Ages on the lees for 12 months. It’s about oxygen, texture and mouthfeel, with an orange wine out of clay amphora Georgian Qveri involvement, three months on skins and stalks, basket pressed and back into the clay. About 25 per cent. Adds another layer of texture, weight and minus all the the adjectives, connotations and negatives. Length without tonic, elasticity and spice without bitters. So well managed and executed. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Old Vines White 2021, WO Swartland

Sadie Family Palladius Liberatus In Castro Bonae Spei 2020, WO Swartland

Palladius, like Mev. Kirsten is a matter of the highest level of fruit concentration, extract and tannin but what separates is the flesh and the beauty noted so early on. Of chenin blanc, grenache blanc, viognier, roussanne and marsanne with palomino, sémillon gris, sémillon blanc, verdelho, clairette and colombard form 17 vineyards. Always the same 17 and it will become more once the experimental vines and blocks come to fruition. There are four co-plantations within and the wine is a mixed appellative and multifarious varietal bonanza of diversity and complexity. What a puzzle, maze and layering of so many different parts. How this works only Eben Sadie (and perhaps also his viticulturist, agriculturalist, winemaker, boys, electrician and plumber know). But does it matter? It finds you, grabs your palate, senses and shoulders, shakes your foundation and never relents. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted October 2022

Red Blends

Beaumont Wines New Baby 2019, WO Bot Rivier

New Baby was released in June of this year and 2015 was the first vintage of a truly Cape conceptual wine. It was launched as a way to combine the idiosyncrasies and potentially complimentary personalities of different white grape varieties on the farm. In 2019 the lead is chenin blanc at 40 per cent with (30) sauvignon blanc plus smaller amounts of chardonnay, sémillon and colombard. They were all planted by Sebastian Beaumont’s father from 1974 onwards. The style and notion follow the line established by Hope Marguerite. “My mother said every vintage was like giving birth to a new child,” explains Beaumont. “Once you do something it’s hard to shake.” Yet another brilliant white appellative blend to define the Cape’s idiomatic meets wild west psyche and only in South Africa do the interpretations emerge like this. All in barrel and the vapour trail is palpable, especially in the flint and smoulder that come from the Bordeaux grapes. New Baby pops, piques, kindles and snaps, raises the senses and is just a perfect conceptual creation. Hard not to love this bloody wine. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted October 2022

Blackwater Wines Sophie MMXX 2020, WO Western Cape

A new sku for Francois Haasbroek, inspired by old red Cape blends, not just a trend these days but a resurrection of style that is in fact new and improved fashion. Sophie is named after Francois’ daughter born in 2020, joining the Bot Rivier grenache named for her older brother Daniel. She is half and half Stellenbosch cabernet sauvignon plus Darling cinsault, affectionately reminiscent for a time when wines like these could be made and aged forever. “A classical blend,” tells Haasbroek though I’m not privy to any made in a 50-50 ratio with these two varieties. Nevertheless this maiden Blackwater voyage comes from three barrels of 30 per cent new wood. “Because it doesn’t get distracted by seeping up oak,” insists Francois and he is likely correct though we need to see where this travels. Long into the night it is suggested with fruit purity, strong facial features, good bone structure and an eye towards the future. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2022

La Motte Hanneli R 2015, WO Western Cape

The name of Hanneli Rupert, owner of La Motte. A blend of 58 percent syrah, (32) grenache and (10) petite sirah, full, more rounded than the Pierneef syrah and showing more barrel as well. The syrah comes from Elim and Franschhoek, the grenache from Walker Bay and the petitye sirah also from Franschhoek. Though truthfully speaking there is fineness, grace and elegance in the context of a big and fruit-centric wine. Acids are sharp, with iodine and this kind of concentrated pomegranate flavours. In the end there are waves of chocolate, not entirely bittersweet, succulent notions and clearly next level. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2022

Radford Dale Black Rock 2014, WO Swartland

Will admit to having a love-hate relationship with this wine which at times shows incredible beauty and at others goes straight over the top. The 2014 eight years forward is divine. A southern Rhône styled blend, composed of up to six varieties but does not have to every time out. Syrah often leads though not in this vintage because grenache showed the most promise for what needs to happen in this blend. Not the hottest of seasons and so in the context of South Africa there is red juiciness and a level of ethereal unlike itself, especially looking ahead to examples like ’17 and ’19. The carignan really surprises, but then again the vines are pushing 50 so their contribution is experientially significant. The ’14 has morphed, likely gone through dumb, swarthy and awkward stages but is now gentle and subtle in its testing meanderings. The fine and incrementally structured elements are clearly manyfold but now really coming together. A rager and a ranger, with some legs on it, still youthful and I will follow it anywhere. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2022

Savage Wines Are We There Yet 2021, WO Malgas

Duncan Savage continues his relationship with these blocks of touriga nacional and syrah planted by David Trafford back in the early 2000s on sites where Sijnn Wines produce the most fantastic red blends. Driving to Malgas from Stellenbosch or Cape Town often elicits an “are we there yet” cry because there are stretches on dusty back roads that feel like a journey to the ends of the earth. The southern most point in Africa more like it and Savage makes use of a few percent here and there with regards to blending grapes that change a wine’s perspective from year to year. He concedes that 2021 was a big sun, big canopy one, yet also following the droughts to create something beautiful and beneficial. Control is exercised and the mix carefully contorted for a red of nimble elasticity and then a Tetris effect occurs. Time and attention paid to tasting and thinking about Are We There Yet begins to pattern our thoughts, mental images and dreams. We are hooked and will be on this line for quite some time. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2022

Sijnn Red 2016, WO Malgas

Second vintage for Charla Bosman’s tenure at Sijnn and here her confidence shows in both the stunning aromatic profile and broad shouldered structure. The nurturing and comfort speak to a winemaker in the early subconscious stages of becoming a mother and a force of winemaking nature. Perfectly swarthy here and it’s really all about tannin management, controlling fermentation temperatures, whole bunch additions, punchdowns and easing extractions. “Channelling freshness but still staying true to the intensity that we have,” confirms Bosman. The quality of this red fruit with a touch of blue, acids of a natural nature and the suppleness of tannins makes this a wonder to behold. So many years of life still lay ahead. Drink 2022-2032. Tasted October 2022

Something Other

Ken Forrester Dirty Little Secret Vin Blanc #3, WO Piekenierskloof

Seeds were sown for an auspicious beginning in 2015 when the inquisitive winemaker Shawn Mathyse was looking, asking questions about and in serious consideration of natural wines. His skeleton in the vat is an assemblage of chenin blanc out of a single vineyard Piekenierskloof site planted in 1939. There is some clairette blanche mixed in though according to the regulations it qualifies as chenin blanc. Four or five vintages are amalgamated from this sandiest of sandy soil, non-irrigated bush vine site. This is the third iteration which includes the vintages of (2017 through 2020). Scents and tastes of old chenin, clover honeyed, waxy and flint struck. The definition of natural wine the Ken Forrester way. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted October 2022

Beauty in Hermanus

Buyers’ Guide to current LCBO and VINTAGES Essentials LTOs for South African wines

Whites

K W V The Vinecrafter Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Western Cape
Boschendal The Pavillion Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Western Cape
Spier Bay View Chardonnay 2022, WO Western Cape
Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc The Winemaster’s Reserve 2022, WO Western Cape
The Wolftrap White Blend 2022, WO Western Cape
With Love From The Cape Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Western Cape
Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2021, WO Coastal Region
Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch

Reds

Boschendal The Pavillion Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Pays d’Oc, Languedoc, France
Fairview Goats Do Roam Red 2021, WO Western Cape
The Wolftrap Syrah Mourvedre Viognier 2021, WO Western Cape
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2022, WO Swartland

Good to go!

godello

Fynbos, Vergelegen Estate

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

WineAlign

Chianti Classico’s future is a three-letter word: UGA

May17

Chianti Classico Collection 2023 – Stazione Leopolda, Firenze

Deconstructing Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, getting around with Masnaghetti, what about 2021? and 245 tasting notes from the 2023 Chianti Classico Collection

When the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico officially announced the launch of their UGA project in June of 2021 a profound new journey had begun. Making that right choice at the right time has paid quick and decisive dividends because the producers, media and yes, consumer have all been quick to embrace these 11 precisely defined sectors. History will show how original and profound an idea this really was. Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive offers an opportunity to officially tell the world about location, sense of place and how estates fit into the complex puzzle of the greater territory. In Chianti Classico this fundamental approach looks at sangiovese and its Gallo Nero progenitor as fastened individuals in a community, no two exactly the same and consumers deserve to know what separates but also unites one to another. The insistence that a general public does not care is both a disservice and an insult to their ever increasing wine intelligence. Each of the 11 Chianti Classico UGAs is possessive of a set of defining characteristics and though opinion is surely varied on pinning down those exact annotations, it gives us something to work towards. What is the defining feature of Castelnuovo Berardenga? Why does Castellina express the most classic red fruit? From where does Gaiole get those specific savoury notes? Who are the sangiovese of Greve? How do we describe the perfume of Lamole? Where do the specificities of Montefioralle originate? What is the impetus for Panzano’s silky textures? What makes Radda so fresh? Why is San Casciano so unique? How is it the wines of San Donato in Poggio so often remind of red citrus? What is the definition of a Vagliagli sangiovese? The answers to these questions are as complex as the whole of Chianti Classico is beautifully mysterious. Chianti Classico’s future is a three-letter word: UGA.

On the surface UGA as a concept or construct may not seem an original idea but consider the other famous instigators. In Bourgogne the wines are organized by burg with every Premier and Grand Cru connected by association to their Villages. In recent times additional geographical mentions have been conceived though they too fall under the auspices of the distinction. In Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero the single most important identifiable feature of those wines are what the Langhe regions refer to as MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntive). The key initial is the first, that being menzione, translated to English as “mention,” a word that refers to adjunctive label notations and by extension how wines are deliberated in conversation. Cru is the real operative and in numerous cases upwards of 10 or more producers will make nebbiolo indicated by a single menzione. The UGA system is dramatically different because it is neither restricted to cru or to village. While it may incorporate aspects of both what it really does is draw geographical lines, 11 of them to be precise, that delineate and organize sets of wines that share a studied, consciously calculated and common connective tissue or traits. For the first time in the history of Chianti Classico there is now a system to charter wines produced from out of a specific geographical area to now be appraised in similar light. Looking at it deeper there can also be groupings imagined, of like-minded producers and in turn shared viticultural plus winemaking practices, in other words, wines that have something in common by virtue of extension from their pinpointed places of origin. In the beginning the aggiuntive was “Classico” and now that the next Chiantishire box has officially been opened – there is no turning back.

Chianti Classico UGA

As a reminder, the recent (June, 2021) sub-dividing of the territory will allow producers to list their sub-zone of origin on the front label of their Chianti Classico wines. In addition to the UGA, going forward the new regulations for the Gran Selezione category at the top of the Chianti Classico pyramid will be (a minimum) 90 per cent sangiovese with support by only native grapes. Current rules for Chianti Classico in all three appellative levels; Vintage (Annata), Riserva and Gran Selezione draw on the same ampelographic base: 80-100 per cent sangiovese and up to a maximum of 20 per cent of authorized native and/or international red grapes. According to the Consorzio “the exclusive use of native local grape varieties has been approved as complementary to sangiovese, since they are more expressive and representative of the production zone and of traditional Chianti wine-growing. The decisions are based on such criteria as oenological recognizability, historical authenticity, renown and significance in terms of volumes produced. The intent of the UGA to represent the excellence of the territory, thus competing, in a more incisive way, with the greatest wines in the world.”

With Alessandro Masnaghetti

Related – Forever in Chianti Classico

Much of the UGA studies and findings were completed with the priceless help of cartographer and Chianti Classico scholar Alessandro Masnaghetti. Masnagthetti’s recent publication of his volume titled L’Atlante dei Vigneti e delle UGA (The Complete Atlas of the UGA Vineyards) is the first true opus dedicated to the Chianti Classico. His dedication to the territory is felt in the most palpable of ways, in fact he begins by dedicating the volume in a most philanhropic way. A chi ha sempre ceduto nel Chianti Classico e a chi in futuro ci crederà. “To those who have always believed in Chianti Classico and to those who will believe in it in the future.” I have written and spoke this many times before, that Chianti Classico is the future and what this region, its people and their wines have instilled in me is a passion for study, education and forward thinking not committed to any other Italian denomination, nor anywhere outside of Italy for that matter. Like Masnaghetti I always look and think ahead, to what is coming next and Chianti Classico always abides. No other place in Italy continues to grow, expand its horizons and evolve like this territory.

‘Cuz he’s the Map Man, yeah, he’s the Mapman

What about 2021?

Telling it like it is, 2021 is a vintage for the ages when we speak of Chianti Classico wines. There have been terrific years in the last 10 or so and each for different reasons but I for one have never witnessed these kind of tannins, this peculiar excitement of tension, the clarity of vernacular of post-modern structure. As a community the wines are suggestive of culture, natural selection and suitability, sustainability and the cumulative movement towards organics. The ’21 Chianti Classico Annata make use of traditional materials and resources and more than any recent vintage open a window into what kind of Riserva and Gran Selezione will arrive when the Chianti Classico Collection 2024 is shown. It just feels like we know how special those wines will be. It is true that a good deal of Classico level 2021s will be released to the markets this year but it has been a while since the adage “sangiovese needs time in bottle” has been as more important as it is from this particular vintage. On the surface these sangiovese can be understood by anyone but there are layers to peel away, nuances and graces to uncover, but most of all they are the sort to seek secondary character and will amaze when that stage is reached. At the collection and in the weeks since I have spoken with many producers and asked for their vintage assessment.

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi – Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli

Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi – Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli: “A colder than normal Spring quarter, characterized by late April frosts, was followed by a hot summer and autumn, with the exception of October, which had typical temperatures. The most significant anomaly was observed in February, with a deviation of +2.1 °C compared to the average climate. Precipitation patterns also deviated from the norm: January and December were unusually rainy, while March, the summer quarter, and the September-October period experienced dryness. In 2021, the climate pattern was more consistent, with slightly lower temperatures and a bit more rainfall during the spring. This allowed for a longer and extended growing season. As a result, the grapes had more time to fully ripen, leading to wines with greater complexity and improved preservation of freshness. These wines exhibit a balanced acidity and, at the same time, a pronounced structure and a complex, well-defined fruit profile.

Principe Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Duccio Corsini – Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano: “Just drank some Le Corti Chianti Classico 2021. The wine is very good, may be the best made at Le Corti in the Annata category. Very much terroir of San Casciano. In one word Goloso or “digest.”

With Federica Mascheroni

Federica Mascheroni – Volpaia, Radda: “The winter was not too cold and without much rain. In April we had a very cold few days and a small frost hit us. As you know usually the frost hit more of the lower altitude vineyards, but in that moment the much higher vineyards, because of the high temperature of the previous weeks, and the plants were much farther in growing compared to the one on the bottom of the hill. Anyhow the damage was not to high maybe around a two percent. In the last few years the season are quite dry and the rain come down in a crazy way :-(, because of this (and the high temperature) we keep the vineyard with grass: Cover crop (erba medica, inerbimenti vari) and we try to don’t take out the leaf from the plant and we do smaller number of cimature. We had very strong and extreme temperature, we reached 38° C.”

Volpaia Precipitation 2021

Chianti Classico Rainfall 2021

Chianti Classico Harvests 2018-2021

“Luckily we were able to have a long harvest to reach a good level of sugar and acidity, it was a little bit longer compared to the normality around 10 days, a nice rain helped us to have a good product in the cellar :-). The last vintage has been quite different compared to the others. It is difficult to make a comparison with a past vintage.”

Giovanni Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Giovanni Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano: “2021 was amazing in Panzano – a really great vintage. A good amount of rain between the winter and the Spring perfect to build a reserve of water in the soil. Quite cold in the week after Easter after the budding out that caused a delay in the growing the vegetation. Beautiful weather in June and July with mild temperatures and very sunny and warm in August but never too hot. A thunderstorm on August 28 provided a good rehydration and cooler temperatures during the night after that. Zero pressure of fungus during the growing and ripening season. The harvest for sangiovese started after Sept. 20th starting from younger vines and the best grapes have been picked between Sept. 25th and Oct. 10th. The wines are rich, complex , well structured with high quality tannins and a good acidity. All my wines are still maturing in oak and they taste wonderful.

With Iacopo Morganti – Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Iacopo Morganti – Il Molino di Grace, Panzano: “I have my note about the climate and from this you can understand the vintage (I think) ! The winter 2021 was not too cold, but rainy until the end of March. Regular budding perhaps a little anticipated, the vines then slowed down the vegetative cycle due to a rather dry and cold April. In fact, on April 13th and 14th the temperatures dropped drastically, after an Easter with mild temperatures of 22/25 gradi celsius, and winter temperatures of -4 to -6 gradi celsius with difficult consequences for those who do our job, losing 50% of the production annual! Cazzo! (call it natural selection). The months of May and June were regular and not too hot or too cold with some rains which allowed good flowering. The summer as always very hot and dry especially July and August, but this is normal, Excellent ripening of the grapes in September and October thanks to some rains at the end of August beginning of September and also to an ideal climate with cooler temperatures at night, ventilation and sunshine during the day. All this has allowed an excellent harvest which for us began in early October, all very nice except for the quantity and for the Covid season. From my phone I would like to send you some fire made at 4 AM from my self and the pictures of the consequence of the frost after two days. Believe me it was hard but the result is incredibly elegant quasi signorile I can’t translate. We still have all wines in oak, small production means incredible quality different from 2020 specially from the color (less) and the elegance and finesse. 2020 is more fruity and fresh more dark colour my be more easy to drink young.2021 will be a great vintage, again for me.”

Laura Bianchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Laura Bianchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio: “The summer was dry with only some sporadic rain in August, but the water reserves accumulated in the spring made it possible to avoid the stress of the plant. As for temperatures, the trend of the summer months was fairly regular without excessive heat waves. Furthermore, starting from the end of August the temperatures, while remaining quite high during the day, dropped considerably at night. This important thermal excursion has, in general, allowed an optimal completion of the ripening of the grapes. The harvest ended late on Oct. 18^th. Wines with very important structure and complex aromas, rich tannins and evident acidity, another vintage that will be able to age very well. Similar to 2019.”

Winemaker Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve: “2021 was a game of two halves. Abundant rainfall in winter was followed by ridiculously “unseasonably” warm weather in February and March, which got the vines excited and woke them up a little bit earlier than “normal”… whatever “normal” means ;). I remember clearly our first post Covid trade visitors were Canadians who came over for the early date of Chianti Classico Collection (which was moved to a later one) and they were nearly all in short sleeves after leaving Canada at minus 15C or whatever and coming over to 15C+ of gorgeous sunshine at Ruffoli. This warmth was followed by an icy cold week in April where temperatures dropped to well below zero in some parts of the valley below us. This all at a time when unfortunately some of the early ripening varieties had already burst. At the time it looked like the Chardonnay may have received a “tickle up” but it recovered well. Our reds were saved due to their higher altitudes but we did have significant losses on the coast in the Maremma. Spring was then followed by a warm, dry summer and this warmth resulted in smaller bunches and lower yields, something we have all come to get used to in these parts. Over the years of experience with these conditions we have learnt to manage our canopies and soils well to achieve perfect ripening. A small blessing from the season was the fact the vines were a little bit behind in development so there was no rush to start picking… A trap many fall into in a warm vintage! We were very fortunate as we were able to wait and wait and be patient and start to pick the Chardonnay only on the 13^th of September, the latest we have ever started picking the Chardonnay at Querciabella! We got all the whites in within a week but again patience and experience told us to wait for the reds. We were then blessed with amazing rainfall at the end of September. Again, we still we waited for the Sangiovese! The biggest indicator for me was on the first of October there was still no water in the rivers and still nobody was out in the forests picking mushrooms, so we knew there was zero disease pressure and our Sangiovese would be perfectly healthy out there. So we continued to wait further, tasting regularly to get the picking dates just perfect. We started picking Sangiovese in that first week of October! It was incredible! With precision picking we made our way through the different villages from Greve, Radda, back to Greve, then back to Radda, then over to Gaiole, finishing off in our high altitude Casole terraces in Lamole on the 20^th of October- so again incredibly late but with exceptional quality.”

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano: “It was a great vintage, love the fruit aromas and the quality of the tannins plus the overall balance. I also think 2021 was also a perfect illustration of a vintage of the difference between perceived climate change problems versus poor choices in viticulture. In Panzano we had 800-plus mm of rain from January to May, nearly twice our annual rainfall (~450mm). After May, very to little rain until harvest. If it wasn’t for a frost in five of our hectares we would have had a near record crop in 2021. We still had an abundant crop despite these five hectares bringing our average down. We had beautiful fresh aromas and quality tannins because our vines did not go under extreme stress, our viticultural choices made the difference, keeping the important leaves over our bunches, preventing them from being over exposed or burned, preserving important acidity.”

Monia Piccini – Il Palagio di Panzano

Monia Piccini – Il Palagio di Panzano, Panzano: “In winter it rained a lot, almost double the average. In terms of temperatures, the winter was slightly warmer than average. Spring 2021 as a whole recorded thermal values below average and rainfall 20 percent below average. There were extraordinarily high temperatures such as on March 31st with values close to 30°C and at the same time very low temperatures around March 20th and April 6th-10th with a strong frost. In the low hills below 250m there was severe frost damage, while in Panzano the damage was very much less than in the valley floor. Temperatures continued throughout April and May below the average by about 2°C, causing a strong delay in the vegetative restart after the frosts. At the beginning of June the vineyards had a strong vegetative delay, with flowering starting about 10-12 days later than usual. In June, temperatures recovered immediately with two small heat waves while July was only slightly warmer than average. The real heat wave of the summer occurred between 10 and 16 August, with temperatures close to 40° with sporadic burns on the leaves and uncovered bunches. The summer continued very dry, the third driest since 1955 with a rainfall deficit of over 60%. Under these conditions, the plants soon made up for most of the initial delay, but soon went into water stress as early as mid-August. The maturation went very slowly due to the lack of rain and only towards the end of September some storms allowed the plants to reach an acceptable maturity. The climatic trend favoured the production of healthy grapes. The production in our case was lower than the average for the years by a good 20 percent, in any case higher than in 2020, but in the lower hilly areas there were drops of 60-70 percent. The harvest was delayed compared to previous years in the hope to have a better maturation while waiting for rains, but the lowering of temperatures and the state of the plants prompted us not to postpone the harvest too much to avoid drying of the grapes and sugar levels that were too high. At the harvest the grapes were perfectly healthy, with high sugar values, higher acidity than usual but with good skin ripening thanks to the lower grape load compared to previous years. The new wines have very clean aromas, very ripe fruit, very high colour intensity, remarkable almost concentrated structures, dense but not dry tannins (thanks to a different vinification protocol) and marked acidity, high alcohol content.”

Sebastiano Capponi – Villa Calcinaia, Montefioralle

Sebastiano Capponi – Villa Calcinaia, Montefioralle: “The weather pattern in Chianti for 2021 was characterized by a rather cold and rainy January and February but at the same time by a very dry March with temperatures decidedly above the seasonal average, especially in the last decade, which favoured the start of budding of the vines. Unfortunately, this early spring was followed by a very cold beginning of April characterized by two-night frosts, on 7 and 8 April, which drastically reduced the number of productive buds on the plant. The thermal shock suffered by the vines and the climatic trend of the months of April and May, particularly cold and rainy, led to a delay in flowering which took place after the first ten days of June. The vegetative explosion due to the sudden increase in temperatures in June caused many difficulties in the management of the canopy but the rather dry climate in the summer months and the timeliness of the interventions did not allow the downy mildew to develop. On the other hand, the fight against powdery mildew was more problematic, also due to rather frequent ventilation which, in addition to conveying the spores of the fungus, contributed together with the absence of rain to dry out the soil. Temperatures in the summer months have always remained average with a good excursion between day and night until the days around August 15th when the African subtropical anticyclone, called Lucifer, arrived and caused severe damage to the grapes of the younger vines, which normally have a less developed canopy and a root system more sensitive to drought, especially those planted on plots with western and southern exposure where the afternoon sun has hit the most. Due to the combination of the frost in April, the sunstroke in August and the summer drought, the production was very small in quantity and the harvesting time went back to ancient times when Sangiovese was rarely picked before the month of October. The lack of water in the soil, which certainly led to a physiological slowdown of the vine, in certain vineyards the veraison of Sangiovese was completed in early September, and the persistent absence of rain in September and October in the Val di Greve combined though with an optimal thermal excursion between day and night favored a rather balanced maturation even if slowed down by the drought. Our harvest began on 23 August with the harvest of Sangiovese grapes to produce our sparkling Mauvais Chapon and ended for the red grapes on 6 October with the last Sangiovese vineyard and on 26 October for the white grapes with the Tor Solis vineyard located at 720 meters above sea level. Thanks to a meticulous and painstaking selection in the vineyard we were able to eliminate almost all the grapes dried out by the August sun. Musts, in fact, are generally characterized by a fairly high sugar content, but lower than those of 2017, and by a nice freshness, a non-trivial element to obtain and maintain in a vintage like this.”

Related – Chianti Classico is the future

The highlight of the Chianti Classico Collection took place at the for the premier screening of La Leggenda del Gallo Nero, “The legend of the Black Rooster.” Al canto del gallo, corri veloce cavaliere. Domani la guerra sarà finita e il vino abbonderà nei calici. Avete già visto il nostro film sulla storia del Gallo Nero? Vi sveliamo la leggenda! “At the crowing of the rooster, run fast knight. Tomorrow the war will be over and the wine will abound in the glasses” Have you already seen our film on the history of the Black Rooster? We reveal the legend to you!”

Click on the link to watch the film “La Leggenda del Gallo Nero” then scroll down for 245 tasting notes for wines tasted in February 2023 at the Chianti Classico Collection and visits with estates.

Godello’s 25 top wines from the Chianti Classico Collection

Annata

Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Leave to Castell’in Villa to do not just the right thing but carry the weight of necessity and hold back Annata to a point where it can be tasted and assessed with the respect it so richly deserves. Though this Castelnuovo Berardenga estate and their historic vineyards are equipped to create magic in the most challenging of vintages, well when a season like 2019 is gifted then the magic turns to the supernatural. Fruit is everything, as it must be and the aspects of climate, fermentation, maturation and all the accruements of seasoning add up to a speciality as no other Chianti Classico will create. This is a very special vintage of Castell’in Villa and one to rival any Riserva or Gran Selezione made in this vintage. Will live in infamy. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2019, Radda

The single vineyard sangiovese never touches wood, only concrete, in fermentation and also aging. It is the highest expression of Monterinaldi and so it will always be a cru Classico. If a Gran Selezione were to be made in the future it would be a different or rather a new label. This is not yet in bottle though it is a finished wine, so despite its anteprima positioning the wine can be assessed, for the most part at least. Thirty-one year old block at this stage, heavy in Alberese, 3.5 tonnes per hectare in yield, intensity and tension at the fore of what this wine just is. That said the 40 days of skin contact makes for beauty up front no matter the structure afforded. “Cimento” aging means captured freshness and there is truly no thought of either tannin or spice not arriving to set this sangiovese up for a long life ahead. This will be special. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Behold yet another precocious and shockingly generous Annata from the team of Matteo and Maddalena at Cigliano di Sopra. That and an intensity of things intangible despite the very tangible, credible and knowable parts of this wine. So very singular and stand alone for San Casciano and yet a style but more so a way of being that just feels like the future. Too young to really know but it seems like this duo has learned how to keep their ferments from flying away and also from getting away. The professionals are in the house. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

Filetta di Lamole does not hold back or skimp on the perfume and is at once a consistent wine connected to the vintages that have come before. Would not express 2020 as a sangiovese that stands up too be counted but more so one that speaks in calmer, gentler and more hushed tones. Yet the fine swarthiness is always present and it works to characterize Filetta in ways that Panzano from Fontodi does not seem to do. More low and slow personality from 2020 and longevity will likely become its middle name. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

All the schist-bled, favourable exposure gratified and experiential positioning has conspired to raise spirits for the season from Isole e Olena’s standard bearing and load carrying Annata. Hard to find a more exacting example for the cuvée style in which a few varieties in higher percentages than the increasing norm are gathered for what a Chianti Classico can and to be frank, should be. The most sapidity is expressed by way of a Paolo de Marchi Classico and few roll off the tongue like an Isole. As good as it gets for 2020. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2021, Panzano

Retromarcia from Michael Schmelzer is as pure and unadulterated a sangiovese as he has ever made, in fact it resides at the top of the heap in terms of such clarity for any in the territory. That includes his smack dab in the middle of Panzano location and my if he did not figure it all out with this 2021. Well, relatively speaking of course as compared to what came before and things surely changed again the next time he laid his winemaking hands on that recent 2022 fruit. This sheds the trials and tribulations of statism, but more importantly the experiments and errors of stalky, chalky and swarthy. Avoids the potential for cumbersome 2021 by expressing the simplicity of beautifully clean and stay at home fruit. Drink away. Grande Michele! Drink 2023-2029. Tasted February 2023

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

It takes but a second to recognize the Chianti Classico excellence in this 2021 from Jurji Fiore and his Poggio Scalette from Greve’s Ruffoli hill. The levels are all high, mighty and intense in a wine with acids and fruit so inclining but you will not find a finer example of white limestone soil scintillant than what is wildly expressed from this wine. An Annata of major importance, educational and something from which to understand what happens in specific places of this complex territory. My, oh my. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Extreme youth for a Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Annata and while this is a barrel sample truth is Luca Martini di Cigala’s offers up more fodder for assessment than many. This will be a most important vintage for two reasons. The first is quality and the second a matter of education, a view to master interpreter taking water (of Gaiole) and transforming it into wine. Not just Gaiole but a little peninsula between the arms of Vagiagli and Castelnuovo Berardenga on a promontory specific to San Giusto. Fine lines, angles and waves continually sweeping make this a most impressive Annata and one to savour for the next 15 years. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Geggiano must have time in a bottle, “ticking the moments that make up a dull day,” to come away later on, expressive of the Alberese soil (mainly) and deliver what has to be this place. Castelnuovo Berardenga that is and yet this valley with its ridges to the east and west is like no other place because winds, rain, sun and air flow differently, acting upon pure sangiovese to create wines like this. What this is exactly can’t be precisely said but this 2019 is the irrepressible essence indivisible to the history of the past. Also the present, right here in this glass, prescient, pure, persistent and built to last. Sangiovese from Geggiano is the future. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Mocenni, Bindi Sergardi, Vagliagli

Riserva

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2019, Vagliagli

Calidonia, Calidnoia, my what a beautiful wine you have become, with three-plus years got behind your acids are softening and tannins fleshing, above and beyond their original anhydrous moments. Calidonia from the Casini/Bindi-Sergardi clan is purely Vagliagli and a 100 per cent sangiovese expressive of vineyards where Galestro and Alberese each impact upon vines. This is Riserva my dear readers. This is Riserva, from Vagliagli’s Craigie Dhu, a.k.a. Mocenni. “Oh, but let me tell you that I love you. That I think about you all the time, (Caledonia) you’re calling me and now I’m going home.” Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Here the textbook is written on producing Riserva from 100 per cent sangiovese out of vintage as humid as they will come. Done so by making the most of vineyards at elevation in a cool location, that being Radda and selecting top level phenolic berries worthy of this place on the Chianti Classic pyramid. A sangiovese that slides and glides both across the palate and through the stages of its presentation. Seamless and teachable. Learn Riserva 101 right here. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Like the Classico this is all sangiovese but in Riserva the fruit is only Panzano and the selection is the second choice of the ripest and tops of the harvest, but also the quality of tannins involved. Mainly from the vineyard beyond the terraces and a couple of blocks purchased from Le Cincole. This is pietraforte territory along the ridge above the Conca d’Oro that falls to the southeast, finishing at the vineyard where Fontodi’s Flaccianello is made. Harvested late, into October and the soil makes a requiem for Riserva quite square in style, with high acidity and lower pH. Savoury as well but in an herbal liqueur way, like a steep of sage, fennel and rosemary, anti-amaro if you will and structured though not the kind of sangiovese that jolts or rocks your palate. The sub-structure, positioning and stature are all impressive. Last tasted February 2023

Nothing scents like a Gagliole and nowhere in Chianti Classico does this sense of fruit compaction, timed and tidy acidity and then fineness of sweet, evolved and intelligent tannins co-exist. Herbal yet delicately so, dripping and oozing of terroir, spice infiltrate of every zone, pocket and pore. Not sure there can be recalled a Riserva with this much personality and oomph but here it is in all glory. Also not sure there has been an example that needs as much aging time as this generously structure ’19. Don’t touch and return five years forward. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2022

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Riserva from Susanna Grassi’s I Fabbri reaches the phenolic height of heights from a vintage of few peers. While 2015 and 2016 were surely apex seasons there may be an argument made in seeing 2019 as exceeding the ripeness of those very good years. The Lamole herbology in perfume will not be denied and yet there are berries and red stone fruit not nosed before, to mix with the citrus and sweet roasted nightshades. This is next level Riserva, all senses piqued and finding moments from which sweet, sour, salty and umami all manage to coalesce. Will be somewhat past prime and yet I am looking forward to tasting this is 2035. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2019

Levigne is Angela Fronti’s way of conjoining Radda and Gaiole, of stacking the variegate fruit of Istine, Casanova dell’Aia and Cavarchione, to create a Riserva layering, circuitous and in beautiful swirl. Swagger too, some attitude and grip that speaks to Alberese, Raddese acidity, Gaiole savour and the exuberance of La Fronti. How can you know, intuit and also feel the emotion of the vineyards, the passion of the maker and the near perfect pitch off the various gatherings of fruit? You can because they are as one. Not Gran Selezione because it’s a selection from several places but for all intents and purposes, not to mention quality, it may as well be. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

My what a lovely Riserva! Fruit succulent and sweet and swirled so effortlessly into equally mouthwatering acidity of pitch perfect tone. Yes there is Gaiole savour and it’s presence is as a seasoning, with chef’s ability, emotion and touch. As for 2020 well this from La Montanina delves into passion and the aforementioned emozione as well and as much as any Riserva in the Classico area. Brava, Oretta Leonini. Grande Gaiole! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Bandini 2019, Castellina

Bandini are bandits and yet some might define the Italian word as “the quality of being impenetrable, maculation or imperviousness.” Monica Raspi’s 2019 is anything but and its tannins do nothing of the sort but they are proper. Riserva is possessive of the most clarity and precision, not to mention grace in the cleanest sangiovese of them all, reeling in and through the years. Lovely swirl of berries and essential oils, elements and vitamins, bled from stone, beauty everywhere. “People can you feel it, love is everywhere.” Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2023

Gran Selezione

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2018, Vagliagli

Carpineta Fontalpino is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga but their Dofana cru is a matter of Vagliagli, sibling UGA within the two-winged commune. Vigna Dofana, special place for the Cresti family, deliverer of Vagliagli as only this place can within the most complex and also yet fully understood UGA. Dofana now graduated or better said migrated to Gran Selezione as a subtle, shadowy sangiovese, like chiaroscuro where fruit and acid are light and also dark, yet with time one will become the other. The constant is Dofana and yet now the label speaks in territorial terms, appellative as Gran Selezione, something new and accepted by Cresti siblings Gioia and Filippo. Benvenuto ragazzi. We look forward to discussing this 10-15 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato in Poggio

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2019, Montefioralle

Incredibly youthful for a Gran Selezione and “the furnace” will surely always ensure to wrap a sangiovese tight, keep it from gregariously expressing itself when this young. The tannins are lined up in a long and unbreakable chain, the fruit set in a well below, textural juice not yet scooped and heaped upon the palate. This structure like karst from bedrock plus acids in skein formation hold flesh not yet put meat on these bones. These parts are all there above sangiovese lying patiently and resting in waiting. La Fornace is recited in refrain after verse after refrain with so many stanzas to come, chanted in canto over time and across decades ahead. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2019, Panzano

Comparisons and contrast are considered side by side with 2020 and so as with Riserva there is a marked difference with 2019 Il Margone. That said I find more consistency with the following 2020 then was noted between the two vintages at both the Classico and Riserva levels. Here a darker and more concentrated fruit set stays true to the Gran Selezione appellation but also with respect to elevated acidity and fineness of tannin. Yes 2019 is a more “elegant” vintage but at this level the intensity, polish and game are all set to impressive levels. The structure is finer and less rustic in 2020 and so one vintage’s loss is another’s gain, and vice versa. Choosing one over the other is splitting hairs, like picking a favourite child. Can’t go there. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Le Balze (formerly Toscana IGT) is a finely composed and structured Gran Selezione from San Donato in Poggio yet is apposite to so many from the UGA, stylistically speaking. More of a blue to even purple fruit profile, nearly blueberry and what strikes so poignant about this 100 percent sangiovese is its level of calm, poise and even restraint. It never crashes in waves, nor makes any threatening tannic demands, but does its work in subtleties, through seamless transitions and ultimately with precision and focus. Very impressive. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

The project of Emanuele Greatz, exporter of Roberto Voerzio, Il Molino di Grace, San Fillipo (Roberto Gianelli) and Barbaresco’s Russo. This is the early fruition of Emanuele’s dream, renting Panzano land in 2016 to eventually purchase and a first vintage in 2017. The land is officially Emanuele’s now. The name of the Conca or amphitheatre actually shares an affinity with the Conca d’oro, in shape, orientation and yet there is much more forest and also higher elevation. Total of four hectares planted, 1.2 up on the hill facing south at 420m and roughly two below the house, both set in Montefioralle. The final 0.8 for the Gran Selezione is in Panzano right next to Montefili and so Graetz calls it Montefili – internally.” It will be called Il Falcole. Gran Selezione 2019 is solo sangiovese sent to 30 months in big barrel combination of French and Slavonian. Purely Panzano through a Selezione of a pinpointed place and to be honest the fruit is a bit deeper and darker than many Panzano ‘19s. That said there are layers and layers to unfold, unfurl and open with high acidity from the high elevation vineyard up at 520m. Where else is Panzano (other than Montefili and Cenattoio) will express this elevation in this wild-eyed and excitable way? A harbinger of the future and initialization of the realization of Emanuele’s dream is in this glass, from this bottle. Wait three years to understand just a bit more and figure things out for 10 more thereafter. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

As always at this appellative level Le Fonti’s is 100 percent sangioivese and as with Annata but also Riserva the house style chooses fruit over wood and seasoning over toast. The warm vintage finished with late season daytime highs juxtaposed against nighttime lows and this Gran Selezione emerged with glaring clarity, instrumental precision and parts on point. From fruit through structure round fits into round and square into square, nothing awkward, sharp or out of place. An aromatic sangiovese while the palate is an experience and a half. Selezione ’18 is a prepared one, to withstand oxidation and develop supplementary character so that it may age well into the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

The next San Marcellino Gran Selezione is a big one, strong willed and big-boned, laced with trace schisty-marl-Galestro elements and minerals from a vineyard capable of structuring wines like no other. This is Monti in Chianti, of all the red, blue and black fruits, coming away violet purple and speaking about a season. A warm one, all the way through to October and the phenolic ripeness here is off the proverbial charts. Wow. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

The AIS Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection

Acquadiaccia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

A blend of 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo of a purity that is Panzano incarnate, straight away. Glycerin in stride, chalky tannin liquified and just the faintest hit of green astringency. So close to acceding the beauty of idealism yet still a really lovely wine in almost all regards. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Antinori Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Badia A Passignano 2020, San Donato in Poggio

Classic dried herbs and brushy Badia a Paassignano style, here with the accessibility of 2020 though the fruit is pure red cherry with almost no darkening moments. Cool, almost minted with a creosote and cooling coals warmth through the chill of the air. This Gran Selezione is imagined as a perfect meditation in late fall, in a cabin in the woods, by a fire, dimly lit room and silence. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marchese Antinori 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Precisely what must be expected and frankly demanded from Antinori’s San Donato in Poggio Riserva and that would be a perfectly executed cuvée of sangiovese complimented by varieties that speak to exactly that. Glycerol and viscosity in a silken thread sewing fruit with the kind of acidity and tannin of the utmost professional kind. Nothing out of place and the window has officially opened. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Intense sangiovese while also drying and tannic with potential to travel far and yet this is certainly not the early beauty of what came from 2020. More so a sangiovese of classicism that must have some time in the bottle before we know what will come. Great length here so there will be a future, that much is guaranteed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

As per the Stucchi-Prinetti plan (which arguably dates back to 1846), the Classico is consistent through the vintages and what feels like epochs as well. There is this swell of sangiovese fruit made complex and curious by what Badia a Coltibuono marks as 10 percent other grape varieties, each making a statement in multifarious manifesto. Searing Annata, part strike and part pierce through the red chalky-cherry originality of these Gaiole hills. There is more going on here than most and year after year this represents benchmark material for the UGA. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Gaiole

A Riserva from Badia a Colibuono is pretty much a Selezione matter and yet, not so much. The emotion is there if not the pack mentality and so Riserva is just Coltibuono. Almost startling to begin with but that is simply the acidity of place talking, distracting and exacting its power over a field blend-like gathering of varieties led by sangiovese. Riserva acts on behalf of and in the ways of the abbey and surrounding vineyards, were they personified would surely speak. Like the paintings along the cloister corridors and the ocupants whose truths, history and tradition are what you need to hear. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2020, Gaiole

As expected, lithe and here from Gaiole also verdant, influenced by UGA, commune and forest. A tart and also taut while pure sangiovese with some Alberese chalkiness in the tannins. Quite well made and supremely indicative of where it comes from. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Still firm, grippy and liquid peppery, not in a reductive sense but the tannins (while sweet) are dusty as well. Classic Bibbiano, of two sides by soil and micro-climate, layered continuously upon and with one another, to create an always stylish and focused Annata. Really pure Sangiovese, as always, clean as it gets, tidy, orderly and succinct. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Bibbiano’s is at the forefront of youthfulness in that there is a closed aromatic launch and some reduction needing to blow off before the hounds of charm can be released. Head straight to the palate to be graced with the interspersions of texture and structure, first liquid Castellina chalky, then wound around the body of this wine. Sangiovese needs the bottle and with eyes closed those words of Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi play in refrain over and over again. Be patient and kind to his wine and in turn you will be kindly rewarded. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2022

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2020, Vagliagli

Everything about La Ghirlanda is Bindi Sergardi in Vagliagli as it always must be, natural fruit red and pure, transparent and through the looking glass of precision for family and location. Curious how there is some tannin here, fine grained structure and while the wine is very accessible there is no doubt it will live longer than many of its ilk. This is a very, very good Annata, luck and fortune all in. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Basic and vintage relatable as 100 per cent sangiovese in rustic Vagliagli style. Not the most freshness in fruit, some salumi and certainly a way that is older schooled and recognizable. Tradition dies hard. Truly. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Fine example of combining place (Radda) with vintage and appellative level. This is an exacting 2020 as Annata with fine acidity and food-matching capability. Grippy as needs though never vivid, herbal yet not herbaceous. Well-balanced and ideal for three-plus years ahead. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Quite cool, minty, brushy and herbal to represent Radda in the most clear and knowable way. The level of tannin here is notable, markedly elevated for 2020 Chianti Classico and it is apparent that Radda at heights did not ripen at a level much above seven or 7.5 on the scale of these things. Quite a searing example for the season. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Perfectly round and normal, dictionary entry sangiovese with softness and intensity of hue, by colouring and merlot as a friend of sangiovese. Tart and just tight enough to hold on for a few years but for the most part this is meant to be consumed in the first two. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

The Brancaia from Radda is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A Riserva from Brancaia is Riserva in a nutshell, of startling professionalism and also emotion. The acidity of place begins in dissertation, leading sangiovese with 20 per cent merlot in the ways of vineyards translated through high execution to personify just what it means to be, act like and exist as Brancaia. Silky smooth, liquid chalky, finely chiseled and structured, able to age long. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2021, Castellina

High glycerin, notable alcohol and structure as well. A big wine as always for Gabriele Buondonno for several reasons, namely elevation and solar radiation but also the intangible of conversion rates and things just being natural, the way they simply have to be. Some vintages are bigger and greater than others and for sangiovese in varietal purity this out of 2021 will equivocate with superior strength, balance and trenchant intensity. Count on it. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2020, Castellina

To taste and think upon Buondonno as Riserva from as recent a vintage as 2020 is to engage in an almost fruitless exercise. This because the level of fruit, acid and tannin in cohorts is so immovable that without time in the bottle it’s hard to gain any real traction. This from 2020 carries more weight and energy than so many, especially from this triad of a location where Castellina, Panzano and San Donato in Poggio nearly converge. Gabriele Buondonno’s is like a stacked ferment of grapes, place and vintage needing three years to flesh and release some charm. Three more to be in the zone. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Always important for a sangiovese to act and project as Riserva when choices are made for fruit to be this way. Cafaggio’s is exactly that and this 2019 resides at the top of the echelon for Riserva made by this Panzano producer. The fruit is exceptional and the structure a fine matter of acid and tannin intertwine. Still some grippy matter to resolve so expect this to drink at peak in another 12-18 months. Aerate now for positive results. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2023

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2020, Gaiole

A surprisingly tannic and overtly structured Annata from Cantalici out of 2020. From Gaiole and seems to bring more grip and drying herbal feels than most UGAs from this vintage. Not the quietest or most amenable sangiovese but one needing time and that speaks for place more anything else. Barrel as well which also needs more time in bottle to melt and settle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Unequivocal and unmistakable as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio for one reason alone and that is the blood orange perfume so bloody (pun intended) typical of this westerly UGA. Here as Riserva and from 2018 with its purity of red fruit so citrus is origin, fine grained though now liquefying tannin and from a vintage picked in late September yet balanced in alcohol, and ripeness ahead of a strange 48-hour spell cast by temperatures running daytime high and nighttime low. Really fine Riserva in the window at this very moment but will stay this way for three to four years easy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

At Caparsa with Paolo Cianferone, John Szabo MS and Mona Haugen-Kind

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Radda

Different fermentations are involved, tank and especially concrete, very much a matter of Raddese acidity, fruit sharp and über cherry in linear sangiovese. Needs another year to soften just that much more though these are quite nurturing tannins and the wine does really choose to please. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Mature aromatics, chewy red fruit, all the leathery plum and liquorice that can be packed into a Chianti Classico Riserva. Developed to the drinking stage, earlier as a vintage than many, hot one mind you and showing that right now, and more. Some mineral and chalk to the structure but pretty much good to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

A vintage with no Doccio Matteo made because the grape quality and also quantity was not up to Radda par. “The wine is a mirror of the land, the people and the weather, like a dog.” The grapes here are from both Riserva selections and so quality reaches above par as only one of two, our two in one were produced. Severe at its moments and yet there is much concentration and compact elements, especially chalk and tension in this grippy 2017. Wait on it – the acids are also there to act as the fruition reaching catalyst. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2010, Radda

Just 2,600 bottles were produced and only eight, well now seven remain of the vintage. “Some wines get you down, some make you talk a lot and some make you drunk. I want a wine that will make you think,“ explains Paolo Cianferoni. “In 2010 I lost 75 per cent of my production and I don’t know why but when I have a glass it makes me think. Maybe what was left on the vine received the love that was left.” A sip and left to think about things because not only is this sangiovese perfectly aged but it is right in the balanced zone. Also the mystery zone and places we’ve never been. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. More tannin and tension here, especially as compared to Riserva (Caparsino) and needing an extra year to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

The 2016 Doccio a Matteo is the first sangiovese (in this line-up) from Paolo Cianferoni that’s actually ready to drink, in fact it’s very much there with some drying tannin mixed with dried fruit happening. Full and caky wine, rich and substantial. Must have salty protein to show best and for the win. Last tasted February 2023

A single-vineyard Riserva from the plot above the smaller second house called Caparsino and filled with all the soils; argile, Galestro and Alberese. Surely an absolute about face expression with higher volatility and a high, near and nigh potential for advancing porcini notes. A deeper and darker black cherry. Characterful and mature in such a different way, The acidity is uncompromising even while the wine acts oxidative with more wood than the other Riserva. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted February 2020

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

A fresher and more spirited sangiovese as compared to 2016, energy still running full and yet you can drink this with the right amount of air. Chewy liquorice, some tar, iodine and soy. Chocolate, lots of the dark stuff. The wines showed more wood back in these vintages. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2012, Radda

Eleven years old, a vintage of high quantity which also means that the wine is a fatter and softer one. Fully resolved now and drinking with lovely grace and elegance. Last tasted February 2023

Lovely bit of development from a vintage of great fortitude and possibility though seemingly only recently softened. Now smooth tannin and yet so, so very sangiovese. The red fruit carries a liquorice note not noted in later wines and here the complexities are blooming, changing and renewing their vows. Lovely look back and easy on the volatility scale. Drink 2020-2025. Tasted February 2020

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Wow the energy from 2021 Carpineta Fontalpino is off the charts, ergo there is this wide open sensation from Castelnuovo Berardenga that will not be denied. Fruit swells and impresses with its gingered-crimson beauty and the advances of egress by structural demand. While too youthful and awkward for all parts to hook up they will, in time, for all the right reasons and with zero regret. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Montaperto 2018, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Apposite to Dofana for Vagliagli is Montaperto of Castelnuovo Berardenga, the grippy, forceful and tannic one. The immovable and unbreakable sangiovese so very linear, gripped by strength, of skeletal structure and needing time. Give it. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Perfectly reasoned, seasoned and fine dusted Annata here from Carpineto, consistently contrived from year to year with 2021 being no exception to the rule. Good fruit and loins, strong bones, robust and trim. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Greve

There is nothing about this Gran Selezione that is not Carpineto and so kudos to the Greve estate for unyielding consistency, no matter the time or place. In fact this also represents a look through the mirror of a vintage, never overbearing or overpowering and just a snapshot of cool, herbal and brushy, like taking a long walk though a dry forest, air crisp with fresh air. The 2020 GS has matured some already so drink this while some others work through their issues. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2019, San Casciano

There will never be denying the savoury elements and earthy nature of a sangiovese from San Casciano and Le Capitozze by Casa di Monte is not the exception. The acids in this 2019 Annata are quite incredible and there is plenty of fruit, red and ropey fruit to stand with the tart and tight wind that constitutes true style. Crunchy Annata with spirit and energy, a charcoal, tar and candied rose compliment, seasoning and all that can make a Chianti Classico thrive. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Capitozze 2017, San Casciano

A few years have seen this Riserva travel forward and the source is a hot, dry and exceptional vintage. And still a great freshness persists even if the sangiovese is ready to be enjoyed. The tannins are more than half resolved and their work in progress is just what the fruit requests but also deserves. This is nothing if not a lovely and joyous swell of Riserva, aged with ideal practice and wood execution, nearly come to fruition, always in maintenance of balance. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The 2021s are being shown because many will indeed soon be released yet examples like this from Casa Emma are way too young and unresolved to really speak the language of its ancestry. But my what hides behind the curtain is so real, vivid to the point of acting out a passion play of psychological sangiovese thriller. An Annata with canaiolo and malvasia that twists and winds, sidles and turns through the sangiovese to aerate and intensify. All this said there are years needed to coordinate and allow Casa Emma to become the wine it wants to be. Even at Annata level. Always at Annata level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Great depth noted straight away but then back to reality because perfume rising draws the aromatics and extends them stratospheric. This is exceptionally gifted as it pertains to perfume, violets nearly and most certainly roses. A sangiovese that might make a sort of taster to think nebbiolo were this tasted blind, though one so modern as to make a heart ache. Then a natural sweetness, wood abided and elasticized with texture and then spice. Much gastronomy here and with a few years melt the ooze will become amenable to match with complex preparations. Seeing this on a restaurant list. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Chianti Classico Collection Design

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

One of the few (of maybe a dozen) producers using pugnitello to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

A little bit (10 per cent) of merlot goes along way to soften and textualize sangiovese with 2019 as the main catalyst for a high quality Annata by Casaloste. Big wine to be sure, fruit driven, structured with great demand and acids sweeter than many. There is quite a wealth of character happening in this wine just getting started on its long journey ahead. Has markedly improved in the past year. Last tasted February 2023

Notable ripe fruit and also a verdant austerity makes for a wine of two positions, angles and disparate emotions. A sangiovese of floral and also avian display while in delivery of liquorice and bitter herbs. Almost Riserva in style, glycerol and concentration at the fore, the rest waiting in the wings. Needs time. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Casina di Cornia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castellina

Plain and simple this is Castellina in Chianti yet one climbing the tight and structured hill though not the ripest of sangiovese ever developed. That said this is 2019 fruit and it’s about as phenolic driven as there has ever been. Really drying, brushy and most intense. Glaring and demanding. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

High octane red fruit with a decidedly higher acid drive puts this sangiovese in fine speed with trailing vaporous emission. Very young and this vintage of 2021 seems to need more time than most any looking back just about a decade of time. Yes a good deal will be released to the markets this year but it has been a while since needing time in bottle is more important than this particular vintage. Great length here on Castagnoli’s 2021 to speak of greater things yet to come. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

A wealth of cherry red fruit in the classic idiom and quite frankly a Chianti Classico 2021 Annata more forward than most from the structured vintage. Solid bones though fruit is most up front and herbals season the wine with sweetness, Different set of circumstances for the wood in how it’s noted to be drying out at the finish. Solid effort for this Castellina house. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castelli Del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Clearly too young to fully know the ultimate direction but there is some blood orange set against a dried herb backdrop in an Annata of clear and present San Casciano character. This is in fact the cooperative of Castelli del Grevepesa’s less sizeable cuvée and one with more singular character and sense of place. Very well made that shows the potential of 2021. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Clemente VII 2019, San Casciano

Firm and grippy Riserva for 2019 and a Clemente VII speciality from sources drawn, blended and made whole. Professional sangiovese to a great degree, silky smooth and ready for food. Acids are just as sweet and tannins just a bit brittle. Ever so slightly and yet the wine finishes with an upwards lilt and twirl. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

A firm and herbal sangiovese with splashes of canaiolo and malvasia nera for extra seasoning, texture and most of all sapidity. This is Lamole in a nutshell, of those herbs with cereals, nuts and a textural feeling in lieu of acidity or rather in compliment to what structure demands. Lovely 2020, accessible yet grippy enough to mean business. Last tasted February 2023

Big but not dense and for Lamole a heady sangiovese from the not so magnanimous Chianti Classico vintage. More than anything it is essential and encouraged to concentrate on the floral aspects of this wine, perfumed to the hilt with that Lamole commodity. Like all the bushy herbs in bloom, of purples and pinks, scenting the air at dusk even if one fails to brush on by. Lovely texture in 2020, mildly glycerol and giving the impression of almost gelid but surely sweet sangiovese fruit. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Castellinuzza E Piuca Di Coccia Giuliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

At five per cent it is canaiolo that lowers the Lamole acidity just enough to introduce sapidity and make this 2020 Annata drink with some proper scorrevole. Challenging vintage for this label, tight and racy even, definitely Lamole of origin and heeded in design. Will develop porcini and tartufo when it hits next age business three or four years on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

How could we not intuit this as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio? The signs are obvious from the start, blood orange and tart acidity but also a canaiolo influenced sapidity that aids in weights and balances for a 2020 Annata that benefits from such cuvée styling. The colouring too, for tradition and classicism. A touch of weight at the finish and a slight botanical tonic to add complexity if also minute astringency. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Quite a pure red cherry fruit and simply structured Albola with early accessibility from a vintage much restricted in such matters. This is clearly designed to be purchased and cracked with haste to seek immediate gratification. Simple and proud. Well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Ama by (Castello di) Ama is a richly textured and high glycerol Annata with all the wealth and generosity from the vintage captured, pressed and patented for a stamp of quality and guarantee of success. Crunchy red fruit and limestone strike, not quite high-toned but rising and ethereal as far as Classico is concerned. So well made and a harbinger for Gaiole within the greater territory for 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2019, Gaiole

Quite the aromatic lift and high-toned entry for a 2019 Riserva that must be pushing generosity of ripeness and also alcohol. Warm and floral, viscous and layered. High octane flavour profile, generous of juicy red berry fruit and also barrel. Quite classic in a modern vernacular for a sangiovese (with five per cent merlot) that has come to pass and be recognized for more than two-plus decades now. Last tasted February 2023

“Direct descendant of Castello di Ama Riserva in a return to the appellation with this being the second such vintage. Falling somewhere between the Ama Annata and San Lorenzo Gran Selezione, Ama’s Montebuomi is so very Calcari, regardless of the level of appellation, intensely woven, idealized and structured. Such mineral virtuosity at the Riserva level captured however, linear, vertical and compact. A compression exists by dint of those vineyard soils and also the living and breathing Gaiole terroir. Drying for now, fleshing to come, settling in later. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2022

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto San Lorenzo 1990, Gaiole

A grand old sangiovese from Ama, likely made by Lorenza Sebasti’s father and predating the winemaking work of Marco Pallanti. A wine twenty years before it would become one of the territory’s first Gran Selezione and an original Chianti Classico cru. Feels like some merlot mixed into this 33 year-old, or not but softness is a virtue. More truffle than porcini, creamy and holding well. Acids are indelibly stamped while tannins have all but disappeared. Beautiful old soul with a chocolate finish to reminisce about the wood involved. Good showing. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi Chianti Classico DOCG C. Berardenga 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Amazing purity of naturally sweet fruit and surely the priority in Bossi’s Annata 2020. If beautiful and amenable sangiovese straight out of the shoot is what you wish to drink then Bossi’s of clear and present Castelnuovo Berardenga account is just perfect. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Pure, clear and transparent purity of sangiovese, exquisite by fruit and in construction, well structured to hold back the years and make us understand the best is yet to come. Crisp, fresh and crunchy now, surely to become chewy later, with braised fennel and liquorice, tar and roses. The professionalism and intent are noted with palpable concern, the wine clearly destined to show well five-plus years down the line. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

Castello di Cacchiano’s wines are made by Federico Cerelli, he of Gabbiano and Poggio di Guardia (of amongst other estates of reputation) and this Riserva speaks to a Monti in Chianti (within Gaiole) location. A pure example indeed, viscous and high in acid retention but also a blue to grey Galestro soil. A tad dusty yet plenty juicy and very much a traditional style of Riserva in stylishly retro clothing. Not old school, just classic. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2020 is Gran Selezione like looking in the Castellina mirror because the purity of red, red, red fruit is the crux and at the core of what this wine wants to say. Hyper indicative of the vintage, clear and transparent, never too weighty or adamant and Fonterutoli puts everything in its rightful place. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG Cavaliere d’Oro 2020, San Casciano

Big production and from 2020 a sizeable wine for Gabbiano’s San Casciano Annata though do not be afraid to aerate and get at it in this calendar year. The fruit is up front even while some wood seasoning persists and assists in creating a classic sangiovese effect. Concrete helps to keep the freshness. Good linger so this 2020 will drink well for a few years to come. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, San Casciano

High glycerol, as per the vintage no doubt and a bleed from chalky Galestro with a nod to Pietraforte for Riserva of suave style and chic demeanour. The professionalism and faux fructose-pectin texture is like pure berry cream, without lactic or milky feels. Modern and so stylish. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Very curious 2021 from Castello di Meleto, almost a sticky effect, like a savoury hard candy dissolving on the palate to reveal new character with each melting moment. Textural sangiovese with five percent merlot, one that works through aeration and on the palate then instigates the mind to imagine many developing possibilities. Sweet acids and tannins too, wanting to integrate but the wine is far too young to involve such foolery. Be patient, it’s sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

One of the more famous, unwaveringly consistent and highest of quality to quantity ratios just has to be this from Monsanto in San Donato in Poggio. Five per cent each canaiolo and colorino complete the endemic local blend, in sapid swings and also hue, also in good humour with just enough tension involved to keep things so very real. Despite the generosity this is a pretty tightly wound Riserva from Laura Bianchi and one to cellar with the best of a long, winding and storied history of producing some of the territory’s most structured wines. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio DOCG 1970, San Donato In Poggio

Talk about an OG. One of the few Classico (Riserva) truly deserving of a place in that category as it pertains to cru identified vineyards. From 1970 there is perhaps less lingering fantasy and age-worthy decades long penetration but truth is only Monsanto and a handful of others can make a wine drink with status (and also grace) 52 years into its tenure. The ’68 and ’69 tasted in 2018 and 2022 respectively were better representations of the storied block and this ’70 emits a nutty and sharp pecorino cheese note, but also fennel and caramel for an overall umami arrangement. San Donato in Poggio umami of another era, sweetly savoury, inviting and subtly sour. Truly fascinating sangiogsee. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The 2020 Classico is currently on the market while the soon to be bottled ’21 shows as an anteprima though that vintage, as firm and grippy as it may be will entice and delight sooner than most. In fact the 2020 is in nearly the same kind of place and so this tells us that. Monterinaldi’s position in Radda and microclimate produce wines like no other. Their wines move like the turtle, aging low and slow, even if they showed up ready and willing from the start. For Monterinaldi there was no hydric stress and the growing season delivered a consistent and constant five month phenolic development. This was a 35-40 day skin-contract maturation without worrying about extracting green tannins. Only six to seven months of aging in wood and this all adds up to doing things differently than many neighbours and other UGA positioned estates. Last tasted February 2023

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda location. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it can’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a candidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2019, Radda

The single vineyard sangiovese never touches wood, only concrete, in fermentation and also aging. It is the highest expression of Monterinaldi and so it will always be a cru Classico. If a Gran Selezione were to be made in the future it would be a different or rather a new label. This is not yet in bottle though it is a finished wine, so despite its anteprima positioning the wine can be assessed, for the most part at least. Thirty-one year old block at this stage, heavy in Alberese, 3.5 tonnes per hectare in yield, intensity and tension at the fore of what this wine just is. That said the 40 days of skin contact makes for beauty up front no matter the structure afforded. Cimento aging means captured freshness and there is truly no thought of either tannin or spice not arriving to set this sangiovese up for a long life ahead. This will be special. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Boscone 2018, Radda

The 1988 planted vineyard at more than 450m on most excellent Alberese soils is the signature, Classico or whatever other appellate label you would wish to put upon it. Boscone knows what it must be and a long maceration (40 some odd days) plus only cement fermentation/aging makes sure to create a sangiovese of finesse and zero distraction. Nothing external, no wood to cake on any make-up, a wine as naked as the grapes were hanging on the vines. Higher acidity, yet another apposite occurrence in spite of the hot vintage because this place cools when necessary to gift saltiness and also sapidity, equal and opposite, also with thanks to the age of the vines. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

For Monterinaldi Riserva resides between Classico and Classico Vigneto Boscone and picking happens between the two, though Boscone is an entity all on its own. This fruit usually comes from middle elevation. Riserva sees Botti and it’s just so obvious because there is more texture and compaction, not necessarily concentration but certainly tight grained layering because of the use of wood. So curious that even with wood this feels less barrel affected than most so Riserva. Monterinaldi’s is still a fresh and sapid sangioivese. Crunchiest Riserva in the territory, bar none. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

The time in 30 hL French cask is approximately 30 months and it must be said again that Riserva by Monterinaldi is the crunchiest of the area, far and wide, crisp and fresh, so clear and finessed. There is more concentration form 2019 to be sure and also fair because the purity but also longevity is just a perfect guarantee. As good as 2020 is as Riserva there can be no denying the next level success that this prime vintage brings to the table. And yet cooler vintages are usually long-lived ones – but at Monterinaldi they all are. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

As far as 2021s are concerned there is great youth and an unrelenting wall of structure in this sangiovse (with eight percent canaiolo) from Dudda Valley in northeast Greve. Too much wood noticed at this early stage and so the tart, tight and sapid red fruit is held in tight, closed and yet to sweeten, flesh out or fatten for that matter. Wait at least 18 months more. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Greve

Mainly sangiovese with eight per cent canaiolo to keep a proper level of pH and therefore sapidity with no rapid or hasteful maturation from 2020 Dudda Valley. Moderate alcohol, scents of salumi skin and roasted nightshades, viscous mouthfeel in a generous wine from Greve without gratuity and surely never taken for granted. Quantity is high for the vintage and appellation for a very promising wine. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Corno DOCG 2017, Radda

Though six years old there is still a wall of structure for Castello di Radda and a single vineyard Gran Selezione that’s far from showing its best and releasing the charm. Dries at the finish but when the wood and tannin subside that sensation should release. Two more years it would seem. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Selvole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Vagliagli

Quite resinous, herbal, tart, tannic and full of tension. A challenging wine that should have softened by now. Wait another year and see what happens. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

At Castello di Verrazzano, Greve with Maria-Sole and Luigi Cappellini, Michaela Morris and Caterina Mori

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Oh, ah, the perfume of Verrazzano. Not just aromas from a wine producing estate but the complex aromatic weave of a veritable and traditional fattoria, of olive trees, gardens and forest. Not an Annata of structural potency but more so one of evident spezzatura, of superior phenolics and balance. The first half of the wine is sapid, the second turns and finishes salty. In that sense indicative of bordering Montefioralle and yet the mix of strong red fruit plus savour is purely Verrazzano. Returns full circle to strength of perfume. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017, Greve

Tasted from a gravity-filled system without pumping by machine to see what then effect on the wine might have, if any. Well if the exercise has any real consequence it would be on the energy and vitality of this Annata. The wine is full of pulse and life while structurally immovable and in no rush to mature. There is more precision on the nose and the palate as well. I’d say a good choice for bottling if not the most efficient way to produce your wines. Last tasted February 2023

Such a unique aromatic expression here from Castello di Verrazzano and the pattern is becoming a thing of great consistent beauty. The judgement is sound if nearly spot on from a challenge and so the structure supporting makes for a resounding drink of sangiovese speciality. Very impressive for the year. Drink 2021-2027. Tasted February 2020

View of the Greve Valley from Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Greve

For Luigi Cappellini some similarities are noted with what will come forward from 2020 (Annata) in that the fruit is of a similar ilk if also a compatible level of spezzatura. The ’18 Riserva used this warm vintage with mitigated assistance from the elevation of this northwestern part of Greve. Vineyards ranging from 250 to 480m quantify a keen effect on slower phenolic development. There is fruit maturity here and this won’t live as long as some other top structured vintages but as Riserva the savoury elements are heightened, the Grandi Botti effect on texture guaranteed and the Verrazzano perfume pops with every swirl. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, Greve

There is much power and strength to 2004 in a Riserva more than holding the fort and the castle without showing any kinks in the armour or signs of decline. Even after 18 or 19 years there is very little development in this ’04 and I for one must applaud not just how slow it has evolved but also how little the Botti show up on the palate. A wine of fruit, spezzatura and savour more than chocolate or balsamic, start to finish. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2017, Greve

Sassello comes from the vineyard on the hill behind the Borgo at the highest elevation and while ripeness development will be slower there can be no doubt that 2017 was better here than most warmer and lower locations in Chianti Classico. The Sassello of this vintage is still stuck in first stage youth, quiet, dense and volumetric. The wine has moved but barely an inch, it speaks in fulsome texture and while yet to flesh out there is a roundness that will see it drink so well for years to come. The best of which will be two looking ahead and ten after that. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2013, Greve

The nose on 2013 is remarkably fresh but also open and generous, as fruity as it is filled with knowable Verrazzano perfume. There is a sanguine aspect to this ’13 but also a tar and roses section to put it in a place of its very own. Maybe even a sweetly herbal moment, middle plane minty with more than average structure still very much in charge. One of the bigger 2013s in the region, holding strong and going everywhere with all the time in the world. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2017, Greve

Valdonica is both lighter and more linear as compared to Sassello with more classic speazztura and Verrazzano aromatics. Also a chalkiness and barrel induced texture but without the volume in Sassello. Valdonica is more straightforward, not as intense in terms of substantial fruit and also more available at this early stage. Saltier finish as well, more in line with Annata while Sassello seems akin to Riserva. Notable balsamico in Valdonica. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Bartolo 2017, Greve

A single block Gran Selezione with the idea to make a more precise sangiovese (with some merlot) that expresses itself with great tension. Well first and foremost San Bartolo is a wine of fruit, big fruit and very generously so. The tension arrives halfway through the tasting experience as you realize a vice grip of tannin of intense expression has taken hold of the senses. The nervous nature of sangiovese combined with a single vineyard of elevation near 480m puts this Gran Selezione is a very specific place. These things supersede the dry and hot vintage in fact they lead at every stage. More chocolate by the Botti on the finish here than the other two Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Of all the 2021s to taste and assess there is no shock that Volpaia’s is just about as young and immovable as any. This is not major news for a vintage of great structure matched by upbringing for classic Classico. These are children of manners and respect, knowing their place in history, they being sangiovese, reticently expressive, necessarily patient, with this Volpaia as experienced and abiding as any. The substance is that of a layered and complex weave with five per cent merlot involved to soften but also pull verdancy from a very tannic example. Bigger than recent vintages, weightier and potentially far more profound. Time will tell. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltassala 2019, Radda

Full and expressive Coltassala with smoulder and sneaky tannins behind a wealth of dark cherry red fruit. Seasoned yet the wood is gentle, beautifully integrated and while this is not the biggest, boldest or baddest of the Gran Selezione, by Volapia’s standards it is a munificent one. Shows off Radda’s acidity, especially at elevation and coupled with high level ripeness the chance to enjoy a bottle will come sooner than the average. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2021, Greve

Guado Alto is the name assigned to Castello Vicchiomaggio’s Annata and solo sangiovese is the game. The fruit is about as honest and also forthright as it gets for the vintage and yet this smaller production (just 20,000 bottles) is the more focused of the estate’s wine at this appellative level. Really getable and manageable at this time which is something so many 2021s are yet to do. At the price this usually comes in at there can be only a few wines from this vintage offering equal and rarely better early drinking value. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2020, Greve

Talk about the passion, and the classics, in Riserva from Castello Vicchiomaggio the wonder is always present, accounted for and delivered through the name of Agostino Petri. No absence of these ideals from 2020, despite the challenge and the idea that this vintage is a Riserva vintage continues to be conceived. These things take time, wines especially built on sangiovese while here softened and made fruitier by ripe cabernet sauvignon. Spot on, generous and giving. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore di Famiglia 2018, Castellina

Solid, weighty, tense and taut sangiovese here from Cecchi in the highest level on the appellative pyramid. Wound tight and will take five years to unwind, just as it has already been nearly five to wind up into this intense present character. Might dry out a bit and the seasoning will be peppery strong as the fruit subsides. The next few years will see the best moments for this Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Lovely 2020 from Cinciano, to no surprise with fruit and more fruit at the fore while support is effortlessly provided by both acid and tannin, equally, unequivocally and with hand held outstretched. Some more tension than quite a lot of 2020s but again the fruit does well to stay in line and for the ultimate purpose of balance. Another year will improve the situation. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The most exotic perfume emits from Colle Bereto’s Annata in 2020 and there are none like it. Like cinnamon and coriander, pine and cedar, the forest and the spice cupboard fully involved. A truly structured and formidable wine, especially for 2020 and needing several years to resolve. That said the purity and quality are unwavering. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Big and brawny wine from Colle Bereto for Riserva and 2019 though of a concern with fruit cast in balance against structure lined up for low, slow and carefully curated development. And maturity with pure sangiovese raised and never braised, surely to be exulted and ultimately praised. Loving the acids within that structure and the chalkiness in smart ratio these vineyards seem to procure. Bravo Bernardo. Certamente. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Colombaio Di Cencio Chianti Classico DOCG Monticello 2020

The fruit is quite dark here and this has occurred in isolated frazione but more so pinpointed vineyard locations here and there from 2020 in the territory. Parts of Panzano and Radda but also here from Gaiole and yet the wine is soft, mature and accessible. More about sweet acids in structural terms so don’t think too much nor wait too long to drink this palatable wine. Last tasted February 2023

Colombaio di Cencio presents a Gaiole herbology that’s always indicative and distinctive, sometimes by way of faintly sweet Amaro liqueur. That’s the first and then recurring feeling coming from this 2020, chalky and with acids that slide along with the red fruit speckled with fresh and also dried herbs. The tannins follow the latter with some pretty austere aridity. This will drink well in a few years, that much is certain, but unfortunately the bottle will not get any lighter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2022

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2019, Montefioralle

More than promising vintage for this single vineyard Gran Selezione from Sebastiano Capponi and that is the operative word because Vigna Bastignano is beholden to time. From 2019 the one that suffices is such a structured sangiovese with broad shoulders with most substantial Montefioralle fruit to go the distance. More than suffices. Basti dire che. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2020, Vagliagli

Petrignano is a newer label for Dievole and in Annata form it’s a most forward thinking and drinking example from the Vagliagli estate. This from 2020 doubles down on the ideal with fruit sweet like candy, naturally and without any undue stress or tension in the glass. Easy, clean and getable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Here comes yet another bit of professional brilliance from Dievole at the Riserva appellative level, mainly with sangiovese plus two or three points of supportive and original territory DNA by canaiolo and colorino. Fruit swells straight away, up front and centre, equidistant from all parts connectable, structural and conceptual. Fruit is an apex predator that feeds on acid and tannin for survival. Dievole owns all the tools and gets it correct. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Aiola’s 2020 Annata is place and vintage driven raised in big casks and on promises, ready and willing to please when spring arrives, just around the corner. It’s really that close to having settled in and deliver the grace and charm expected. Quite a lovely, lithe and red citrus vintage right here of great specificity. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Lamole Paolo Socci Chianti Classico DOCG Castello Di Lamole 2016, Lamole

Tart and volatile, a truly swarthy and natural sangiovese from Lamole. Both chewy and with some formaggi, a wine so very Lamole but more so this label within the UGA. Extremely parochial and idiosyncratic behaviour. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Valiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Sizeable case production and a sangiovese with some softening merlot out of the southerly Vagliagli UGA. Straightforward, of peppery plum and red citrus, currants and a dustiness about the overall feel. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Juicy, fruity, glycerin, simple and needing to be consumed. Drink 2023. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Pure and ready, amenable and readable Annata here from Le Masse’s San Donato in Poggio vines, treated with utmost respect and for all the right reasons. This is textural sangiovese and quantities are so low you should count yourself lucky to secure just a bottle or two. Grace, understatement and charm are what this feels like are the things that comprise its beauty. Last tasted February 2023

“To me, one of the best years for grapes,” tells winemaker Claudio Gozzi and the wood tank used for fermentation and now aging makes this noticeably a year wiser (than 2018) and so much more suitable to making this 100 per cent sangiovese. Even without tasting you can tell there’s a refinement, a calm and a settling that 2018 does not have. Cleaner, much more precision and seamless behaviour. Perfect volatility, sweet acidity and long, fine chains of tannin. Pure and honest, exacting, readier and will be just ideal with another year or so of time. Approximately 7,500 bottles produced. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted October 2021

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Purely San Donato in Poggio, red fruit of red citrus as gelid texture with a coolness and a fineness that speaks directly to 2019. The tannins are quite resolved and yet the wine has much to give and life yet to live. Look ahead five plus years and imagine the changes to come, but best to drink in the freshness for now. Last tasted February 2023

The Annata of Montecchio always express a deeper San Donato in Poggio, classically citrus and red fruit meeting salumi cure, but there is always more. To the story and the point, Annata from 2019 gives earth, juice bled through stone and clay. If other UGAs are akin to Santenay than this Barberino Tavarnelle could be compared to say, Volnay. In sangiovese of course and Montecchio accedes to a Villages level, here in their suitably hyperbolic Annata. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG Primum 2018, San Donato In Poggio

From Montecchio’s Premium Line in the squat half magnum bottle and from warm 2018 a mainly sangiovese with five percent cabernet sauvignon that smooths the angles and curves all the lines. Rounded, well-rounded at that, with really mature fruit, as if in a slow-cooked stew, braising liquid fine and viscous. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Felciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Dusty and herbal, quite the savoury expression, especially for Panzano and a wine of place above all else. Full and not lacking for fruit from a palate that does so much more in terms of impression and what this wine is capable of becoming. Still quite youthful so return in two years to see what will become. Last tasted February 2023

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Panzano and 100 per cent sangiovese, without a shadow of a doubt on either front, chewy and fulsome fruit, lots of sun and ripeness, chalky Galestro and perhaps even Pietraforte-induced structure. Acids are quite high for 2019 but then again it’s all sangiovese so why be surprised. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Firm yet fair Annata from Fèlsina and one off the harbingers not only for Castelnuovo Berardenga but surely Chianti Classico as a whole. The 2021s are a formidable group, like 2019 Barolo in certain structural and yet immovable respect. Though this entry is but an indicator, instigator and liquidator it does so with all possibilities and probabilities intact. Classic Fèlsina of a broad spectrum to speak on behalf of a wide breadth of fruit sourced out their many vineyard blocks. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Fèlsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is a perfume, a scent of the earth and also Castelnuovo sky that creates au aura about Rancia for Riserva. The vineyard looms over the land and the fruit always marries with the earth to give away its character as it defies logic and does just this for the vintage. Each and every one actually, yet 2020 is warm and full, with pine and spice at the apex of Fèlsina’s usually aromatic display. A liqueur of macerating cherries season while more spice wakes and covers the palate, lingering and leaving memories behind. I will remember this Rancia, forever and always. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Fietri Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Express Gaiole savour, a verdancy unlike any other Chianti Classico commune or UGA. Crunchy red fruit like crusted cherries and of an intensity that has yet to dissipate, nor has this pure sangiovese softened in any way. There are layers to peel away and although the ripeness is not like 2019 it really doesn’t need to be. Speaks for the vintage and for Gaiole in correct ways, without apology and for longevity. Upper echelon 2020 Classico. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Definitely richer and also more overt structure from Panzano when you look at Fontodi’s Annata side by side with (Filetta di Lamole) and yet the vintage kinship is organized like cousins with familial ties. Finding high acid from 2020 and so all together there are many parts to put this vintage in the arena of long age-ability. Apt and ample viscosity makes for a mouthful of sangiovese and the variety always remains at the heart of a Classico by Fontodi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Rubiolo is 100 per cent Sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2020

All sangiovese from Castellina (40 per cent), Panzano (45) and a small amount from Badia a Passignano (in San Casciano). “A regular season, warm but not like 2022,” explains agronomist Giulio Carmassi and so ”maturation was corchato (shorter)” and harvest was compressed in to five or six days. Rains came late in September, causing a nervous and quick pick. A good vintage though not considered top and yet the purity of red fruit is present. Saw a 20-22 day maceration time in stainless with aging for eight months, half in old barriques. Sent to concrete and blended. A firmness and still some moments of tension about this Classico with a push-pull posit tug between freshness and maturity expressed as salumi, skins too and two-toned fruit; dried currants and fresh pomegranate. For early drinking in any case, starting six months from now. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole, Panzano

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Fulsome and chewy Riserva for Gagliole with 100 percent Panzano sangiovese part beautiful and part structured, by Galestro and Pietraforte soils. This fruit comes from the heart and epicentre of Chianti Classico Pietraforte with a warm 2020 delivering waves of fruit and mineral, alternating, integrating and soon to be evolving. This 2020 feels like a Riserva quite close to reaching its peak, likely in two years but the wealth of fruit means the door will open sooner rather than later. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023.

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2020, Lamole

A fine and lithe Annata from Susanna Grassi out of 2020 and yet without a doubt equipped with the fineness and beauty of eternal Lamole perfume. In a wonderful place right now, ease of fruit sliding on a corrente e snello scale, fine liquidity with a streak Of salinity. So apropos for Lamole and the varietal sangiovese it breathes. Spot on and restrained. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

“I don’t know why, but you will never see wines as dark as the 2020s,” tells Iacopo Morganti. Though truth is Il Molino Di Grace has never made less quantity and so concentration is as high as ever. Aside for hue this is “a nice Chianti Classico to drink now – my prelim is I don’t have enough,” says Morganti. Indelibly floral and stamped with quality approval, heady and yet elegant, forceful and elastic. Fine Galestro chalk of tannin and grip by Pietraforte. A different vintage and why shouldn’t it be? Happened during a pandemic and did its very own thing, without interruption and for all the right reasons. Magdalena Vineyard plays a big part in this level of appellative wine. These are simply grapes made into wine after all. Pure and real IMDG though with lower acidity and though big it’s easy to drink. Hyper real. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Molino Riserva

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Il Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Not just because of the extra year in bottle but also the kind of year, fruit more in red tones, effusive spoken language and elegance are what 2019 surely is. Acidity runs higher than 2020 and the wine while settling is still working through youthful energy. Still there are some bursts, fits and spurts from such a wine of vitality. Linear, less elastic but neither stringent nor too intense. Never vivid or glaring because it knows itself and what it wants to be. This will live long, that much is clear. Well, everything is very clear. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Fine tannic presence from Gran Selezione for 2020, several steps up from Riserva with less pitch and grab but still overt dark fruit. More diversity and complexity in perfume, notable violets and rose but really what stands out here is how the tannins allow the fruit to stay up front. There are no perceived grains or sand-papery textures involved, neither is Il Margone soft or fluffy. There may only be 8,000 or so bottles available at this quality and so a rare and must have wine it most certainly will be. Iacopo Morganti explains it well. “It’s not easy too make three different levels of Chianti Classico. You need to understand the vintage and the differences, especially when you have less quantity.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

As far as 2020 and Panzano are concerned there is a great deal of concentration and substance coming three ways from Il Palagio di Panzano’s Annata. Fruit, acid and tannin, all set to high intensity, each sucked and layered upon one another. A Classico in the great sense of the word and the appellation, pure and remarkable, not a sangiovese of any stringent notes despite how much has been pulled from these grapes. Juicy, no dustiness whatsoever and liquid running in soft waves. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Panzano Riserva in glycerin and unction, substantial fruit and long cask aging, macerate juices swirling and compounding in complex flavours. Some verdant notes that are earthy-savoury driven, pine tree and needle, fern and allium. Complex weave of saline and sapid elements with a toasty oak component yet having fully settled in. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Only sangiovese and from a vintage where the final days of September saw crazy spikes in heat with nights at freezing. So the fruit was picked on the 28th and here the first Gran Selezione of Emanuele Graetz’s young tenure. Chewy sangiovese with so much palate feel, mouthfeel and texture. Again a Chianti Classico that you will not have ever tasted before. Leathery and fruit-centric with fine tannins though not the kind that will see this age the way the 2019 surely will. The flavours here however are complex and their linger is seemingly never-ending. A remarkable wealth of precociousness and purity, almost as innocent as a wine can be, lucky and wholly professional all at once. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted February 2023

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda and Gaiole

Angela Fronti’s Annata is an expression of several vineyards, where rocks are such an important matter, in soils of Galestro plus Alberese, but also elevation and slope. The Classico’s grapes come mostly from Radda vineyards (Istine and Casanova dell’Aia) but also Gaiole (Cavarchione, Tibuca and Le Noci). Though a child of cool, calculated and mysterious ’21 there is quite a rouse of joy and untamed energy coming straight out of this pure sangiovese. Fronti has done well to coax pleasure with little tension or pain and as such you could very much have a glass as soon as you wish. Barrel sample or not and so when it does find its wine into bottle this 2021 will drink well from the start. Tasted February 2023

La Sala Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Casciano

With the oenological help of Stefano di Blasi it is this sangiovese from La Sala del Torriano that speaks in clear tones and terms. In San Casciano vernacular that translates as herbals and savour of the silkiest and sweetest kind. Like a dry Amaro, a chew of Australian liquorice and a lick of fine Maldon salt. Maybe some chocolate by the barrel at the finish. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Tiny production of Riserva here from La Vigna di San Martino ad Argiano in San Casciano and a curious example at that. Good ripeness and glycerol yet spiced, capsicum spicy and chalky within the context of pretty darn chewy fruit. All sangiovese and a wine certainly worth investigating to potentially really getting to know. Would like to put a few aside and see where they go. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Spiced aromatics, biscotti to ginger cookies, an eastern Panzano original, fresh and dusky, like the Frazione’s evening air. Tight and focused sangiovese, even more so Panzano on the palate, lightly glycerol and just so perfectly tart. Though a two-plus year old Annata this is really just about as fresh as it gets. Elevation contributes to the ideal, at 450m and near to the wines from Casole. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Aromas will remain consistent in 2020, first of a baked amaretti or ginger cookie, a lovely toasted cereal but with an extra year in bottle this Annata expresses more brushy savour, a dried fennel character and yet plenty of freshness persists. The dusty quality is consistent from vintage to vintage and speaks to sangiovese needing time in the bottle to unwind and express its true to Panzano fruit. This is sangiovese of silky tannin but the same thing cannot be said of the mouthfeel. There is more savoury grip involved. Time will continue to help. Track record shows this possibility will become probability. Last tasted February 2023

The Panzano work of Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini travels from strength to strength and while this ’19 Annata was only bottled one month ago it shows the best freshness and right kind of crunchiness here at the Chianti Classico Collection. Indelibly stamped with Le Cinciole and Panzano terroir, a combination of earth and fruit showing as well as any these days. Can’t help but relish the level of tart and eye-popping flavours with an immediacy of early drinking possibility. Terrific Annata in every respect. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted March 2022

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Aluigi Campo Ai Peri 2018, Panzano

Aluigi’s fruit is darker than the Annata, its tannins are just as silky and as for mouthfeel there is more smooth consistency and character than in the other Le Cinciole wines. A much bigger wine from a bigger vintage in part because it was hot and also when the last two days of September produced high level degrees of temperature by day but also low to near zero by night. This means a big Aluigi with high level acidity captured and kept to be a catalyst for dark fruit to shine and age. Age well this will though it will always be a wine of depth and heft. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Vicky Schmitt Vitali – Le Fonti di Panzano

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Classic Le Fonti and I mean what else but classic, as expected from fruit and producer so intrinsically connected it’s as though there is no separation between people and land. At this stage a maturity post reduction and locked in full freshness without steps taken towards the secondary. Spot on salt and pepper seasoning and a truly gastronomical sangiovese with soft merlot roundness plus hue-instigative colorino. Well blended and enjoyable in every respect. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

From 2018 there is the most crystalline clarity, purity and natural fruit sweetness from Le Fonti’s Riserva, this in spite of high level accumulated warmth and alcohol conversion rates. The merlot helps to smooth and silken the texture so that a seamless transition confirms the goal of invitation, to ideal phenolics and maximum pleasure. What this means for Vicky Schmitt-Vitali and Guido Vitali is a Riserva that speaks in their particular heart of Panzano language with a sangiovese so honest and direct, in every respect. Beautiful wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Panzano

Bigger wine in 2018, even more so than ’19, not because of stylistic choice or bigger dreams but simply because this part of Panzano experienced late season heat. Also cold nights and so Riserva’s acidity drives stride for stride with fruit, alcohol and tannin. Picking late ensured multi-toned ripeness and fully realized sangiovese dreams. An extreme vintage but one so well managed at Le Fonti because these custodians of Panzano are pragmatic survivors who can do nothing but fashion the most hospitable and nurturing Chianti Classico. It is the proprietors’ heritage, imperative and humanity. This is a wine of intensity and concentration, perhaps less fresh than 2019 but one that just may outlast that vintage in its own special way. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Barrel sample. Very taut, acids still running amok and wood very much in control. Blue to black fruit with a stop at purple, Gaiole savour and a whole mess of everything happening at once. Needs a minimum two years to settle in but there is plenty of stuffing to see brightness ahead. More than a bit early to make any lasting assessment. Tasted February 2023

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

A new look at Montefioralle and a tiny production for Chianti Classico of perfectly timed maturity. Though there is a simplicity about the character of this 2019 it is nothing if not a lovely glass of wine. The 20 percent mixing in of merlot and cabernet sauvignon just pushes the point further to understand that this is about here and now. Drink up CC lovers. This is a basic gateway drug. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Diego Finnochi and Elisa Arretini – L’Erta di Radda

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Barrel sample. Only Diego Finocchi presents sangiovese in Riserva this way. With grace and fluidity, liquid sapidity and Raddese acidity. No canaiolo in 2020, solo sangiovese and the balance shows, the major grape able to create the push-pull of posit salty to mineral tug without problem. There is tension mind you, but no issues to report on. There never are. Still it’s simply too early for full disclosure or assessment. Tasted February 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Tasting and assessing Lornano from 2020 at such an early stage feels unprecedented yet here we are and try we will to see the forest for the trees. Some tart angles and more than ample tannin yet clear and sweet they are in surround of fruit we just know will become fleshy and expansive. Again, this is sangiovese and time is of the matter. Patience for Lornano and their corner of Castellina. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

As with some other well known Chianti Classico producers that hold back Annata longer than most this feels strange to be tasting a 2020 from la Famiglia Losi. A most glycerol Castelnuovo Berardenga and one of impressive fruit though wood is very much a factor, imparting a floral and vanilla waft through the bones of the wine. That and what Alberese will instigate makes us understand that this sangiovese with sapidity catalyst canaiolo is not yet done what maturing it needs to do. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

More than markedly youthful Annata by Alessandro Palombo from a 2021 vintage we are still years away from figuring out. Reductive and coiled tight with acids proper wrapped around substantial fruit. Neither pepper nor rubber but simply fruit, structure and youth. Need to revisit a year from now to see what it’s all about. Judgement is a tad reserved. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Ottontuno 2019, San Casciano

Not simply stuck in a black hole of structure but this 2019 San Casciano Gran Selezione is of an immovable infrastructure that defines positioning and appellate category. Big boned and more of an impression left as opposed to expressiveness, at least now and likely for five more years. Needing the toasty wood and dense tannins to dissipate, things that will take quite a bit of time. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

You can always feel the white soil of Tenuta Perano and nowhere more so than from Annata level Chianti Classico. More than sangiovese with 10 percent merlot and (5) cabernet sauvignon for a silky smooth 2020 that wants to share its impression as early as it can. Cool and sappy, easy to understand and professional as they come. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

Perano glides as Riserva, smooth and suave, sangiovese ripe as necessary and just a few splashes of merlot tossed in for the good measure of sweet seasoning. Quite an easy drinking Riserva of 2019 generosity, the least amount of savoury elements possible as it pertains to Gaiole and these white calcareous soils of the Tenuta. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2021, Montefioralle

Barrel sample. A smallest of small production for Annata determines the effort and fate of this Montefioralle 2021. Just a touch of verdant behaviour touches the back end but this is poignant and proper for 2021 of classic and traditional Annata style. Tasted February 2023

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

A small lot and still peppery reductive sangiovese as Riserva from 2020. Quite toasty, smoky even and lots of green running around. Needs time and yet it will be hard to imagine these roasted and smouldering notes ever fully falling away, or melting in. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2021, Panzano

From a property purchased in September 2018 above the village of Panzano, direction Volpaia. One of 10 hectares planted to the MB33 clone with this being the third vintage and first time shown at an Anteprima. There was 800mm of rain ahead of the growing season and the vineyard’s elevation attracts high solar radiation juxtaposed against cooler night time temperatures. Also less rot than at Monte Bernardi with similar soils of Galestro and Pietraforte. Michael Schmelzer refers to hedge trimming as the way to maintain composure. From a viticultural standpoint 2018 is a vintage that separates the wheat from the chaff, with no rain during the season. “If you have different clones, say 420A and/or do not hedge trim, you can’t complain about irrigation,” says Schmelzer. “You’re throwing away water.” Not Michael and the early results of his new frontier vineyard determine a sangiovese bright-eyed, bushy-tailed, enthusiastic, happy and full of energy. What else can you say? MB33 is part of the fabric of Chianti Classico’s future. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2023

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Unexpectedly tannic vintage and also for what it means to be a Monte Bernardi Riserva. Less showy and forward than 2018 though the immediacy gained is again from a long 45 day post-fermentative maceration with higher than many stem inclusion. Higher than 2019 and 2021 in that regard. “I’ve reasons for what I do,” explains Michael Schmelzer. “My decisions are like my cooking instinct. I don’t follow the hard rules of a laboratory. I work on fundamentals, not relying on numbers.” Riserva is a matter of knack and intuition, salt and pepper seasoning, a Monte Bernardi style and best case scenario. Though grippy as a vintage there is haute and high caste toothsome piquancy in this 2020 and it may just fool us all by outliving the rest. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Greve from Montefioralle

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Barrel sample. Showing every minute not yet gained as a sangiovese with a few percentage points of various complimentary grapes (3) canaiolo plus (2) altri vitigni creating a push pull of saline-sapid notations. A bit swarthy and volatility needs to settle but a little bit of sulphur at bottling will do the trick. Tasted February 2023

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Lorenzo Sieni’s 2020 Annata is just perfectly Montefioralle, succulent through savoury and back again, acidity running up the sides of the palate and fruit round throughout. Never tries too hard nor demands too much, of itself or us, the willing and abiding tasters. Lovely Annata and perfectly expressive of time and place. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Alessandra Deiana and Michele Braganti, Monteraponi, Radda

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Ripe red fruit to the nth degree and a most natural feeling emitting from Michele Braganti’s 2021 Annata with a readiness ahead of many. A sweetness in the plums and citrus expressed as pure sapid tang with perfect help made to slide across the palate. This is a restrained and fine acid example with sneaky structure laying low, much like Beaune pinot noir, albeit in Chianti Classico. “You just have to wait,” shrugs Braganti. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Monterotondo Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Vaggiolata 2020, Gaiole

Good and plenty fruit with a twist in that additions of canaiolo and malvasia nera bring seasoning and spice. Travels well beyond salinity into aromatics and flavours from the spice rack and sapid sensations accrued. A crisp and crunchy Annata for 2020, spoken as Gaiole through the name Vaggliolata. Settling in nicely at this point and drinking really well. Savoury without overt greenness or toast. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2021, San Casciano

Quite a compliment of other endemic grapes not only aid and abet but work so properly too create cohesion and define this special Classico from San Casciano. The breakdown of 80 percent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, (5 each) pugnitello and colorino is essential and creates a balanced 2021, of less tension than some but also pure without greens or greys mired in the void. A very successful and textured wine of silk and chalkiness for seven to ten years ahead. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2020, San Casciano

A singular Chianti Classico and also San Casciano expression with an almost San Donato in Poggio-like blood orange of red citrus expressiveness. Also textural, of glycerol and the savoury elements that while present are less what we think of when we consider San Casciano. Plenty of machinations in this 2020, of 80 per cent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, plus (5 each) pugnitello and colorino. Stands apart from the pack. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Traditional in so many respects and also a sangiovese plus five percent each endemic canaiolo and colorino for a doubling down of abiding respect to Castellina and all of Chianti Classico. Expertly tart and liquid chalky, a year away from integrating structure through the wine, to be followed by three to five years of fine drinking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2019, Castellina

Most curious aromatic 2019 from Piemaggio with Chinese five spice all over the waft. That and preserved strawberry, tar and roses. Quite nebbiolo like in some respects with different tannins of course. Cool and savoury, notable evergreen and mint, finely designed and amply structured. Good example of red Castellina while setting its own course of style. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Podere Capaccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The fineness of red fruit in layers and made to express breathes of fresh air in fine sprit by elevation in Radda sets this Podere Capaccia up for great success. Charming, graceful and yet grippy enough to stand up, defend its territory and survive for quite a stretch of time. Fine work from Alyson Morgan and team. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Graceful and charming sangiovese with smoothness and texture added poignancy by 10 per cent merlot puts this 2020 in great vintage standing. Yes it is so very San Donato in Poggio but it’s also Podere La Cappella in a nutshell. The Rossini wines always express and taste this way, like bleeds from white limestone and a ripeness befitting this place. Also freshness by winds from the sea running through as a relish and a vim that keeps your hold of the palate. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Very pretty 2018 Riserva, reddest of red fruit with that omnipresent streak of white Colombino limestone running through. Great and substantial fruit, high level acidity and my what fine tannins. A perfectly reasoned and seasoned Riserva for drinking 10 years. Easy. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

In Riserva form Podere La Cappella really sees a long developed through late picking sangiovese come to full fruition. Beautiful flesh and texture, fulsome fruit and sweetening acidity. Very fortifying with that blood orange to limestone bleed in great hyperbole. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2021, Radda

One thing you can count on is for Piero Lanza’s sangiovese to come out ripe as any in the territory and 2021 would surely not be an exception to the rule. The fruit is remarkable and the structural parts equally formative and formidable so I’m not sure Lanza has made such a wine in quite some time. Years are needed to settle the pieces, parts and puzzles of this magnanimous affair. Don’t care that Annata is the appellation. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2020, Radda

Once again why should there be any surprise to find Piero Lanza’s sangiovese from Radda in this state of heightened grace and exactly and correctly what it’s interpreted to be?Where else would a wine so big seem so balanced? How else to explain conversion rates at this level so ideally suited to vineyards that ripen to a point and then begin again? It’s a matter of listening to wind, grains of wood and sand, essence of minerals and elements, spoken through stone. This is Poggerino, anew and reborn, year after year. Nuovo. Last tasted February 2023

Piero Lanza’s 2020 is a bright, effusive and luminescent version of itself in that there seems to be a lightness of being and avoidance of rich density. Quite the aromatic lift this early and time around, floral, like roses, hibiscus and fresh tar, not unlike some Tortonian raised nebbiolo. As sangiovese there is sneaky structure in quantifiably knowable admonition and that is said in the most complimentary of ways. Radda chalk, sand and whole bunch verdancy bring complexities and the struggle is real. Disregard the appellative concept of Annata in part, because this should go long. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2022

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Lovely 2020 Annata from San Donato in Poggio though quite mature and resolved at this early juncture. Acids are still hopping and popping while the wood has done little melting into the overall feel of the wine. Seems like two parts are involved and integration may never fully happen. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Monica Raspi’s Pomona Annata is simply a beautiful expression of 2020 Castellina. Spiced and seasoned, just such correct tart and tang, crisp and pure with a swath of beautiful and natural swarthiness through the finish. When this finishes its journey the pieces will all have fallen into place and nothing will distract from pleasure. Kudos to Raspi for exulting the vintage to rise above the rest. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Firm and apropos of maker and location, reddest of red San Casciano fruit developed with purpose in vineyards graced by river stones of vines in the path of beneficial marine winds. You can feel the breathability and even a shade of saltiness streaking through the red berry aromas. Crisp, crunchy and then chewy as the wine fleshes across the palate. Duccio Corisini gets better and better at making wines of clarity and profundity. Grande Principe! Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2021, Castellina

Proper and well raised sangiovese but also conceived as Annata with trenchant purpose is the state of Jacopo di Battista’s most correct L’Aura. There is a sweetness of fruit and acidity rolling as one without much structural distraction though there is some underlying strength in subtlety to see this open with furthered aromatic style. A direction is taken and these are wines to try. If you have not yet joined the watch the time is now. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Purely, allegedly and unequivocally San Donato in Poggio here from Quercia al Poggio and an estate that writes the book on frazione definition. Sweetly natural red fruit from plum and citrus, tight and tart acidity but also warmth if kept fresh by breezes blown through. Another quality sangiovese from Vittorio and Paola with spicy bits and accents contributed by four supporting indigenous varieties. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

New directions, adjustments and mediations take Querciabella’s Annata into ever developing progressions and investigative accessing of new territory. Here from 2020 winemaker Manfred Ing finds new texture or next level mouthfeel for an Annata increasingly becoming and speaking on behalf of Greve and especially the Ruffoli hill. This vintage is not asked to over deliver and the statement made is one of drink-ability but also impression over expression. Top examples don’t try to impress – they simply do what’s necessary and so a deep impression is ultimately made. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just a beautifully silky, suave and smooth Annata from Renzo Marinai in 2019, expertly blended and having now matured into a great place at this stage of its evolution. Red fruit captured to what just has to be the most ripeness in phenolic terms, with tannins so sweet they melt at first contact with the palate. Gentle in every respect including woolliness, liquid pepper and verdant finishing notes. That’s where the 10 percent cabernet sauvignon makes its appearance. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

A fine and suave Riserva from the Panzano selection of Renzo Marinai, as much a Gran Selezione as many peers, open and fragrant, liquid swirl of sangiovese liqueur but also Cassis by 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon. Amenable and beautiful, handsome and sleek. Fine, fine wine. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2023

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

A clear and purposed Ricasoli Annata, standing on edge, pointed and direct to tell a story of tradition and five soils across many hectares of expertly managed vineyards. Grippy and firm, needing six months to a year in bottle, fine and expressive being the actions of the future. Hoping to see this released in the fall of 2023 in Ontario. That would be the right time to begin enjoying this wine. Impressive interpretation of Gaiole considering 600,000 bottles are made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

Dark fruit as per very specific locations in Chianti Classico and a Riserva of depth to be sure. The well is full of macerating cherries, fresh leather and wood spice for tradition kept but modernity acceded to install confidence in what today’s Riserva in many instances has become. Fulsome wine from Rocca delle Macìe, to no surprise. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Di Fizzano 2020, Castellina

The classicism of a Famiglia Zingarelli Gran Selezione from a single estate and a much smaller sku than most would expect. Just 26,000 bottles made and a top pyramid expression at a most affordable price for very specific markets, including Ontario which should be thankful for the gift. Crunchy and conversely chewy, wood a factor in vanilla plus chocolate, acids sharp and on point. Will live gracefully for a few years yet. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2019, Castellina

It just feels as though a Famiglia Zingarelli sangiovese will always act, emit and taste this way, that were this wine poured blind we would know the origin and the appellation. That being Gran Selezione and with 2019 the glare and obvious beautiful red mess of Castellina fruit is right there. The tops for substantial fruit as far as this GS is concerned and possessive an aging potential long and great. Should become one of Zingarelli’s finest. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

It seems that only Rocca di Castagnoli unearths this very specific kind of red fruit in Gaiole and it must be attributed to location but also elevation. Less herbal and savoury than almost all the rest of Gaiole but surely startling and vital in its very own way. This from 2021 is firm yet fair, chalky tannic but seemingly not a fortress unbreakable or formidable to gain access. A well characterized and nurtured Chianti Classico that will give back. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Surprising grip and structure here from Rocca di Montegrossi’s 2021 Annata, well not exactly shocking but this is a vintage wine quite far from readying towards release. Tannins are fine chained, grained, unbreakable and of a saltiness really connecting the mineral dots of this wine. Some canaiolo and colorino bring added seasoning and so sapidity is a thing. Crunchy for Gaiole and less herbaceous than most. Should begin to open in 18 months or so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Riserva Ducale Oro 2018, Castellina

Suave and smooth, nary a tannic moment, easy drinking Gran Selezione. Not the most structured 2018 and very little tension but you can enjoy the wealth of fruit, wood and savour for three to four years while you wait for others vintages to settle in and open their doors. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo and colorino from the warm vintage down in quantity due to the April frosts, a year-plus spent in tonneaux followed by six months in bottle before release. That quantity was two-thirds of a normal production and concentration is surely above the norm in this 2021. Great acidity, highest level of the stuff and the fruit is ever-bearing ripe on the nose while tannins are overtly grippy and the wine needs another year in bottle to truly show its stuff. That said this will surely be the finest Annata from San Fabiano Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

Mainly Sangiovese with some colorino and a few splashes of merlot “that speaks Chiantigiana.” Also a 500m elevation for most of these grapes, the sangiovese planted in the 80s and converted to organic in the 90s. A stony Galestro soil opposite to the sandy clay and calcari, i.e Calcinaia around the borgo and winery. Only Cellole delivers this cool, liquid peppery swarthiness that the Classico does not show and also a combination of verdant but also distinct minerals notes. Tannins are exceptionally taut with at least two to three years remaining before they begin to truly integrate. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2015, Castellina

Unequivocal Cellole profile, woollen and natural, earthen and full-bodied. The more this 2015 ages the more it smells and tastes like Cellole, the place. It simply exaggerates and hyperbolizes with each drop in tannin, each integrate connection between maturing fruit and those once über grippy tannins. Classic Calcinaia acidity bar none. Last tasted February 2023

Cellole is San Fabiano Calcinaia’s top tier Chianti Classico from Guido Serio out of Castellina in Chianti. There is always a curious and distinguishable aromatic profile in all their sangiovese but especially from the Gran Selezione. Part hematic and part natural in origin that is split between land and cellar. As for the vintage the sweetness of fruit and the thick texture it bleeds is the plasma and the oxygen that gives it breath. Expressly Castellina in deep red fruit and with a particular San Fabiano chalky twist. Opens and breathes some more with air and time. Well-framed and positioned at the price point for a good seven or eight year run. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted May 2020

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2010, Castellina

The third to last bottle of said vintage is opened for this tasting and what a treat to have a moment with this inaugural vintage of the Cellole as Gran Selezione. Showing its age in aromas to be sure and yet the palate is vibrant while oak flavours and spice are intrinsically pronounced. The swell is filled with soya, iodine, black cherry and a sanguine flood throughout. Tannins persist in a chalkiness as well but what is most fascinating is this gastronomy of a Gran Selezione. It just tastes like Tuscan cuisine and though a finger can’t be put on exactly what that is, well there is a gaminess, from dry-aged bistecca to picciona that makes this wine taste like it does. Then arrives the porcini, tartufo and orange zest. Complexities abound and all are pleased. Last tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG 2006, Castellina

A small amount of sangiovese joins trebbiano and malvasia bianco for Vin Santo from what is considered a top appellative vintage. Clocks in at 15 per cent after more than 10 years in caratelli, emerging as nutty and finely golden toasty as any in the biz. Hazelnut namely but also this gelid lemon and gingered orange crème brûlée flavour that lingers forever. As savoury as it is sweet so don’t confine this to dessert wine times. Begin the night with an ounce or two alongside the antipasti, preferably of a pâté, parfait or rillettes kind. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted February 2023

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Annata or anything else by San Felice can only act like a child and a rebellious one at that when tasted so early in its tenure. Barrel and tannin are far from ready to relent and allow their wine its due. There is a fortress door to open and the substance behind the gates lies in waiting to be free. Two years methinks before that becomes reality. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

Barrel sample and the youth of this San Giusto wine is something too behold. A fortification equal to both Siena and Firenze combined. Le Baròncole is serious, stone-faced and impressive. My goodness. Score and full assessment reserved to a much later date. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Then comes along Carobbio with a wine older than almost any other Annata in the collection and yet even from 2018 this sangiovese has yet to hit its stride. Dark fruit of baritone voice and depth puts this in unique territory and it would seem the grapes were mainly picked later, after the two day heat spike at September’s culmination. That said low nighttime temps kept the acidity and so 2018 from Carobbio should age as well as any Riserva and many Gran Selezione from the vintage. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Fruit quite mature of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, a focused expression and very much the warmest of (western) Panzano style. You can taste the Bordeaux grapes in here, with a Cassis for sure but also some desiccation of small berries. Minty and a cherry stone bitterness on the palate with drying tannins. Give an hour of air and drink over the next three years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fruit quite fresh for 2018 and in a way more so than the following 2019, here again from a consistent blend of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Juicy Panzano expression, ready and willing to please, tannins softening now and acidity captured with truth. Raspberry and blueberry, fruit captured at peak and here an Annata with silky tannins, everything in line and ready to roll. Last tasted February 2023

Crunchy Panzano Annata here from Tenuta Casenuove, peppered as opposed to peppery, as if with freckles or micro-sized bits of earth. Plenty of salt and pepper seasoning but again nothing sharp or spicy about it and fruit so very berry red. Tasted March 2022

From the southwest corner of Greve in Chianti, southwest of Montefioralle and close to Panzano. Modish and modern for 21st century sangiovese is just this, stylish, chic and highly motivated. Quite fully developed and felt red fruit of glycerin, pectin and mouthfeel but you want more and more. Impressive magnitude in bringing so much fruit into the mix. Not overtly high in acid or tannin so use this early and often. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted twice, February 2020

Purple shales where the three UGAs of Montefioralle, Panzano and Greveconverge

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Panzano

A Riserva quite consistent with the ’18 Annata, than the 19s, fruit captured at a more harmonious induced state and ultimately juicier as a result. Tannins silky with plenty of glycerol in a Riserva of dark western Panzano caramelization. Would not wait to drink this 100 percent sangiovese because maturity is fully happening already. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A vintage for which merlot at 15 per cent does wonders to install calm and roundness into San Gusmé sangiovese of dusty, drifty and instigative tannin. There is a swirl of red to purple berry liqueur in this high glycerol content of an Annata to take Castelnuovo Berardenga into another stylistic and one not often reached. Modernized, renovated and refurbished. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

All in with sangiovese from Radda and the term in purezza rings true on so many levels. First by grape variety, second by commune/UGA from which acidity is expressly Raddese and finally for an Annata of superior clarity. Quality too, guaranteed and obvious as witnessed by a wine both getable now yet structured for longer than most would postulate and mistakenly choose the under to pontificate. The lines and ascension are perfectly incremental and Tenuta di Carleone will rise with the finest of the 2020s. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

There are many, not all mind you but a great number of 2021 Chianti Classico in delivery of this silken, glycerol and so very modern character. That and a firm grip with high level acidity captured. A big wine this time from Lilliano, stylish, chic and strutting. Fruit set and connectivity are well aggregated though this won’t be one to age indefinitely. Drink in the near term. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta San Vincenti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Soft, getable, smooth and silken sangiovese, made more so in this way by 20 percent merlot for a drink as soon as possible example for the vintage. A 2020 of fine style, simple, functional and professional. Relatively speaking this is a small lot Annata (at 20,000 bottles) and worthy of your attention. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Massimo and Cosimo Bojola – Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Massimo Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Squarcialupi 2020, Castellina

The label is a of a painter in the Squarcialupi Palace, drawn by Cosimo Bojola. Just over a year in medium sized cask, same vintage as the Amphora Chianti Classico yet darker of fruit which seems counterintuitive to this not remaining on skins for 11 months – as with the Cosimo Bojola. It’s the colorino, even at five percent doing the hue-mans work. Rich and unctuous, high acid tang, intense and a bit vivid. Stays its course all the way through, never wavering or being led to distraction, neither by overly aggressive tannins or astringencies. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

All sangiovese, subjected to a prolonged capello sommerso maceration for up to two months. Spends two years in smaller wood, 10 and 14 hL sizes and going forward there will be at least some amphora aging for this wine. Much meatier and marbled than both Annata with Cinta Senese muskiness and peppery finocchiona spice. Complex Riserva in so many respects, plenty of fruit substance with minerals popping in and out at every turn. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2016, Castellina

A 100 percent sangiovese made from the sace vineyard as Riserva, of same prolonged maceration a la Capello sommerso. Aging in small Tuscan barrels made near Rufina, barriques and tonneaux of size. Adds a tougher and grippier feel to sangiovese, unlike the softness of French barriques. This Selezione has settled well and the fruit is remarkably fresh. All parts of this ’16 are in order, in symbiosis repeated and layered, folding back upon itself again and again. Ready to drink, wholly enjoyable, now and for a few more winters. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Dense and fulsome, as always with generous barrels exaggerating the macerate pool in which thick and viscous sangiovese with five percent cabernet sauvignon swims. An intense example, especially at Annata level and though the tannins are a bit hard and drying there is ample to substantial fruit to handle the realities of this wine. Wait two years. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Greve

Mainly stainless steel fermentation plus some open top fermenters, followed by 16 months in large (30 hL) botti. A mix of the younger plantings from all three vineyard sites; Terreno, Montefioralle and in some vintages also Sillano across the valley from Terreno up against the Monti del Chianti. Makes up approximately 35-40 percent of the total (80,000 bottle) production. The 2019 is the Annata on the market and this will likely be released later in the Spring. Approachable like many 2020s of darker fruit and a roundness making this ready as soon as anyone would wish to drink it. Already at this stage the freshness and generosity meet at a point of open amenability. Good flesh on the bone and also like biting into red stone fruit. Clarity and purity. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Greve

Sangiovese plus 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, (5) colorino and mainly Bonnille Vineyard across the valley from Terreno, of eight hectares on Alberese soil purchased in the 90s to add to the existing seven at Terreno. Similar altitude upwards of 350m and a warm vintage leading to 14.5 percent alcohol. Open top fermenters called Mastella are used for the fermentation, introducing oxygen and yet keeping a cap above for a wet journey through to the transfer for aging in big barrels. A Riserva of sanguinity and also animale, a lovely salumi and also raw meat muskiness that speaks to making an appellative wine from a very specific place. Good structure here as well, showing signs of life to live until the end of the decade. Really good work here from the vintage. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno, Greve

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2019, Greve

Asofia is only from the oldest vines planted in 1980 and 2019 i the first vintage labeled as Gran Selezione. Previous it was a single-vineyard slash cru-designate, 100 percent Chianti Classico. A much more pinpointed and focused wine as compared to the Classico, aromatically charged with Alberese and clay as the soil source abutting the Chianti Mountains. A maturity and concentration of fruit as per the old vines that lend experience and fullness. Picked on the 4th of October and it shows in the phenolic quality, upwards of let’s say 8.5, pushing nine out of 10 on that hypothetic scale. Brush and cooler climate from the surrounding woods lends a savoury element to this wine and in Greve terms there is an almost Lamole at elevation and perfumed aspect of this hyper specific sangiovese. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2019, Montefioralle

One of two Gran Selezione and harvested almost a week later on October 10th, referring to the place and little church near the village of Montefioralle. From 500m on calcareous soils (Essentially Alberese), not Formazione di Sillano as might have once been supposed because of the name of the place. No barriques or tonneaux, aged 24 months in 12 and 24 hL oak, finishing at 13.5 percent, much apposite to 2018 that finished at 15 percent. This is purely Montefioralle, exquisitely so, cool and fresh, elegant and if this isn’t an ideal vintage for the UGA then I for one will have no idea what is. Purity of parochial red fruit and a temperate state of being, calm and relaxed. The tension lies hidden in the shadows of this wine, non-explicit and as a result the sangiovese seems non-plussed. The tannins are upright, timely yet taut. All this to say that Sillano will be ready just a bit later than Asofia and will also live just that much longer. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Lovely aromatic swirl emanates from the Vallenuova 2021 and the capture is pure Castelnuovo Berardenga, regardless of how ubiquitous that may sound, or seem. This is the sangiovese of great and wide open space, of crisp air and therefore freshness but also dusty qualities that speak to grape and place. Wait a year and drink for three to four thereafter. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tolaini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Montebello Sette 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Hard to pick a better vintage from which to create a Montebello for the ages. Here a pure Castelnuovo sangiovese that sings, in warm weather and were it to rain, happily anyway, structured and built to last a lifetime. This is Tolaini’s success, their benchmark at the top appellative level, so right, correct and true. Bravo. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted February 2023

Vallone Di Cecione Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

It just feels like a wine from Vallone di Cecione and the amazing thing is you only need to taste one or two wines, three or four years running to recognize the gentle breeze of sapidity running through the subtle swarthiness of their sangiovese. With canaiolo too, for that sapid streak cutting into acidity, extending the character of complexity and yet the unction of Panzano is the final call. This 2020 is exacting for VdeC. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castellina

Classic Trasqua lightning, purity of red fruit for Castellina incarnate, well matured being from the ideal 2019 vintage. Yet as with the tradition of Trasqua time is the essence to define how this sangiovese (with four other grapes mixed in), they being five percent each merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and (3) alicante bouschet. Together all will travel, take it easy and in another year culminate at peak. Not sure this producer has crafted a better Annata in recent times, or ever for that matter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Well matured and by now ready to rock and roll sangiovese with just a few splashes of merlot to deliver an herbal dissolve through black cherry fruit and high acidity. A fine vintage for the Montefioralle estate, silken and cool, almost tarragon-minty and as stylish as it comes for the UGA. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Pruning at Il Molino di Grace, Panzano

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, IGT Toscana

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2018, IGT Toscana

Feels like 2018 Gratius is in a bit of a dumb phase, like what can happen with pinot noir, especially from Bourgogne. This is not Iacopo Morganti’s favourite vintage of Il Gratius but this is the misunderstood child and it will bloom late, or again. While it feels a bit sleepy now (some would say old) it should be looked at in the light of mature and experienced. A prime sample of a single vineyard made in low quantities for what the land needs to say. Last tasted February 2023

Bottled just before the Chianti Classico 2019, so just three weeks ago. A blend of sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino, as it’s its nature and privilege. The sangiovese is taken from the vineyard on top of San Francesco’s hill, adjacent the canaiolo and colorino vineyards. A limited (3-5,000 bottle) production, a wine that’s all about selection (from two vineyards) and elevating craft to the highest of Il Molino di Grace levels. Still sees some barriques but going forward the plan should be to age only in large casks. The chewiest and most textural of the wines, with sapidity and colour matching salinity, acidity and savour. Drama but one in complete control, that is Gratius. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted February 2022

With Giulio Carmassi and Cosimo Soderi at Gagliole, Panzano

Gagliole 2019, IGT Colli Della Toscana Centrale

Could be labeled as a Gran Selezione but it began in 1993 as a Vino da Tavola with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon mixed into the Castellina sangiovese, changing in 2013 to only Panzano and as of 2018 it has been 100 per cent sangiovese. Comes from the Pietraforte soils but also some Galestro involved and in turn the balance comes about in a sangiovese round and at other moments squared. Accessible and conversely agreeable, more well rounded ultimately speaking and less about tension or grip. The kind of structure that is both sneaky and stretched so that time can only improve the experience. Two more years will really see it all come together. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Gagliole Pecchia 2016, IGT Colli Della Toscana Centrale

Called Pecchia since 1999, from a Castellina vineyard of the same name and a second block (closer to Fonterutoli’s Siepi). The name remains the same and yet since 2013 the sourcing is all estate grown Panzano, from a block at the top of the property on pure Pietraforte soil. Here from a most beneficial 2016 for a sangiovese that has matured quite a bit and yet the acidity is intense, the tannins solid as the hard rock of the vineyard and the ability to keep changing will surely be a thing of many more years to come. The mix of tension and resolution is quite there. An IGT of wisdom and also potential, stiff and solid yet singing with feeling based on experience and years under oath. Most intriguing wine that will become a Gran Selezione as of 2018. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

An apposite vintage to 2018 for this unparalleled field blend of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano though since 1948 much has changed and more sangiovese planted means less interruption or intrusion from the gaggle of other grapes. Just as juicy and gregarious while also vertical and filled with old school tension but also charm. Mid-weight and also alcohol, approximately 14 percent but this is a valley of elevation and woods so freshness just fills the air. This is very special. The 2018 was just a bit loose by comparison. Tannin on the back end suggest waiting two years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

The plot was originally planted in 1948 to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano. Hard to find a field blend like this anywhere. Twenty plus percent is original vines and the rest planted, but also restored in 1982. Emanuele Graetz re-planted 1,000 (sangiovese) plants in 2022. Spends 18 months in older wood and yes, this is what you would expect, though how could you possibly know what to expect? Produces only 6,000 bottles from nearly two hectares and the purity is so real, with verticality, some leathery maturity but much more so a juiciness that determines the true spirit of the wine. Is this ready? No, not quite but man you want to drink it. Clean, honesty and remarkably focused despite the potential for tohu vavohu. Picked on the 24th of September. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Isole delle Falcole Merlot 2020, Toscana IGT

Will be called Auré which stands For Maurizio and Loretta, owners of the property who have sold to Emanuele and are responsible for planting the merlot in 1978. Just six rows making 1,200 bottles maximum and one of the few old vines examples gone solo in the Classico area. I mean you have to taste this merlot to believe. Plenty of fruit but red with no tar, char or smokiness. Instead all perfume, picked a week ahead of sangiovese, nothing drying or leathery but just the sweetest textures, aromas and tannins. A great site and yes merlot is special for where it comes. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2017, Toscana IGT

As a reminder Sangioveto’s vineyard is called Scanni, sangiovese planted in 1968 by Laura Bianchi’s father Fabrizio and first harvested in 1974. Not sure these adept and adroit grapes have ever experienced a vintage like 2017 and yet Sangioveto defies the vintage’s absurd levels of aridity and heat by expressing freshness and exceptional acidity. Hard to believe how the essence of Monsanto’s San Donato in Poggio could be secured but ’17 succeeds with core clarity and tolerance. There is some caramel in the flavours but that’s only after the uncanny scent of prosciutto, salty and sweet, peppery and herbal. The vintage delivers purity and layers of fascination for the palate to absorb. High gastronomy Sangioveto indeed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 1990, Toscana IGT

When you reflect upon Sangioveto 1990 as a sangiovese 22 years post original planting and 16 after first vintage then you understand it was already an experienced sku. Consider 1990 as a great vintage in the Chianti Classico territory and now this original standard bearer of San Donato in Poggio quality becomes something deserving of your highest attention. Laura Bianchi’s father Fabrizio foresaw the best of the best from this block and to follow both 1988 and 1989 meant serious business. This particular bottle is nominally advanced, with earthy tones while affirmed of Sangioveto’s haute acidity and formidable structure. Tart fruit, citrus included, persistent intensity and salumi musk are all there. Though this bottle is not fully indicative of 1990’s quality it’s parts are brilliant, even if they don’t add up to the expected whole. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2020, Toscana Bianco IGT

A blend of 50-50 chardonnay and trebbiano, honeyed in hue both by some days of skin contact and some advanced maturation at nearly three years of age. Only sees stainless steel. Can’t miss the terpenes and orange pekoe tea while acidity is quite prominent in delivery of lemon and orange through promiscuous flavours. An absolutely unique take on Toscano Bianco that startles with its freshness and how expectation turns to incredulousness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2019, Toscana IGT

Cerviolo Rosso is composed from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot, an ironic name for a wine considering how many grapes these little deer will consume in any given given vintage. Raised only in tonneaux and one of the few IGTs with no sangiovese though before 2012 there was some in the mix. The idea was to separate from Gran Selezione when that appellate category became part of the portfolio. This dates back to 1986 and here from 2019 the tannins are fierce, the fruit black and the connection thick as thieves. Man does this need years to resolve though the ripeness is light years ahead of the recent past and the style is all Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2023

San Fabiano Calcinaia Cerviolo 2014, Toscana IGT

Same blend (as seen going forward to 2019) of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot just a few years after sangiovese was removed from the mix. This from what was seen at the time as a disastrous vintage and yet time has been kind because first the lowest of low quantities due to stringent selection meant that only top berries were used. Second, time has helped in ways it just can’t effect after the warmest of seasons. This is settling in nicely with a recent relent of tannin but the swarthiness is purely Calcinaia and so with age there is a most obvious connection noted between this Bordeaux blend and the Cellole Gran Selezione. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Tentute Squarcialupi Galaverna Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero

The name refers to the ice that forms on the leaves of trees in winter. First sparkling wine for Squarcialupi made from malvasia bianca, two months on the fine lees in tank followed by 18 more in bottle. No dosage ”an experiment 100 percent because you don’t find sparkling wine made from malvasia in Chianti,” says Cosimo. Dry and delicious, of great fruit matched by equal and opposing acidity. Picked a month ahead of when it would be were it used in table wine with a potential alcohol of 10.5, translating to approximately 12 percent (minimum) at the end. Straight citrus, linear and richer than might be imagined. Impressive first effort leaving lime and tonic at the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Chardonnay Rugiada 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

From a vineyard at 600m, the highest of Squarcialupi’s 33 hectares, made with two different selected yeasts. First a non-Saccharomyces strain, then after there days a Saccharomyces is added. Goes through malolactic and then stays on lees for three months, in tank. Snappy, green apple style chardonnay, grippy, linear and of a fine citrus line, namely lime. You really feel the calcari at the finish. A difficult place to cultivate because of the Alberese but more so the Colombino, less yellow and much harder ock predominating a limestone soil. Fantastic length. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenute Squarcialupi Dama d’Ambra Vinificazione in Amphora 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

A varietal malvasia aged in amphora, normally picked in the second half of October, less fresh and spirited as compared to chardonnay. Fermentation happens after de-stemming and crushing, in amphora with skins for six months. White balsamic, lemon curd and “for us it’s a white wine not just for fish but antipasti and pasta with white ragù,” tells Cosimo. “It’s a light red wine.” This is the third vintage, no longer just an experiment but now a going concern. Fine bitters, savoury botanicals, dry tonic, fino, green olives and a perfectly pleasant balance. Very well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Rosato Di Caparso 2020, Toscana IGT

A selection of 100 per cent sangiovese, 48 hours on skins, no saignée, only run-off juice. Feels so pure and natural, sour tart, candied rose to sweet basil with a pause at pink grapefruit. Far from your dry and pale Provençal style but arid and intense in its own special way. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Rosato Di Caparso NV, Toscana IGT

The most basic of Paolo’s sangiovese, non-vintage here but in reality it is mostly 2019. Some years there is more blending involved, especially if a cold vintage is at the centre. Seasoned and a little bit spicy, simpler drinkable and finishing at herbs, both fresh and dried. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Amphora Di Caparsa 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Direct from amphora, trebbiano and malvasia, fermented and rested together for five month to six months, unfiltered, bottled with sediment. A tisane of lemon grapefruit and pekoe, so very tannic and of a salve texture though slippery, sliding away and not leaving its paste trailing and sticky behind. Still so young and not really in any real charming stage. Promising. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Amphora Di Caparsa 2021, Toscana Bianco IGT

A Bianco from amphora, made with trebbiano and malvasia, fermented, aged together for up to six months, unfiltered, bottled with sediment. Always a tisane, now a year in bottle showing as a honeyed lemon and orange lozenge, decreasingly tannic, settled and ready. A finer vintage as compared to 2022, seamless, graceful, silkier and alluring. There is fantasy and emotion in 2021. Perhaps 2022 will develop a similar personality with a year in bottle. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Bianco Di Caparsa 2019, Toscana IGT

A mix of trebbiano and malvasia but just fermented on skins for a few hours, pre-dating the amphora methodology. Apple and lemon jelly, simple, fresh somehow still and far less interesting than the amphora whites that will follow. Drink 2023. Tasted February 2023

Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Mimma could have been Chianti Classico, it could be Gran Selezione, dedicated to “all the girls of the area,” says Paolo in all earnest seriousness, hand-picked grapes by Paolo’s wife Gianna and daughter Fiamma. This is the flagship, small production less than 2,000 bottles, grapes from all over the vineyards, picked in the middle of harvest, during the second pass. There is a restrained intensity in this sangiovese and it does indeed make you think. That’s important, It means Gianna and Fiamma get it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Filippo Bianco Frizzante Metodo Classico

Made by Paolo Cianfiero’s son Filippo of 100 percent sangiovese, oxidative, energetic, citrusy and pretty fucking delicious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Verrazzano Sassello 2000, Toscana IGT

Like the 2004 Riserva there has been less evolution in 2000 Sassello, the sangiovese that will eventually become the first of two Gran Selezione for Verrazzano. There is certainly more concentration and compaction but the freshness is astounding and the generosity so appreciated 22-plus years forward from vintage. Top quality acidity season bar none. How can we not envision up to five more similar and ten full years of good drinking from this Sassello? Drink 2023-2028. Tasted February 2023

Terreno Professore (Screw Cap) 2020, Toscana Bianca IGT

Terreno Professore (Cork) 2020, Toscana Bianca IGT

Made with petit manseng and roussanne (90 percent), plus (10) malvasia bianca and trebbiano, harvested mid-September and aged in wood for 11 months. An experiment to look at screw cap versus cork that Sofia and Giacomo are hoping will answers questions. Well – what can you say because the wine under screw cap is corked while the wine under cork is singing. Filtration issue? Cap problems? Bottled at the same time however so the issue must be with the cap somehow. In any case this is a most curious and frankly delicious white blend, rich and viscous with just a hint of barrel induced flintiness. White flowers and honeysuckle with a glycerol aspect to make it seem richer than it is in terms of residual sugar, so let’s say 2.5-3 g\L. Lovely mineral-metallic finish with lime and tonic. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Good to go!

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WineAlign

To Icewine and beyond

Mar27

The Tunnel at Niagara Parks Power Station

Icewine. A Niagara wine-growing region speciality, long-suited to place, world renowned and in a way a curse because mistakenly global perception thinks only this kind of wine can be made great out of this coldest of cool viticultural climates. For quite some time Icewine has been Canada’s infinity, a national star and success story that have been the Ontario wine industry’s burden to bear, it being the ONLY wine capable of excellence in the minds of consumers and also many wine industry peeps worldwide. This is finally changing, in no small part thanks to ambassadors like The Wine Marketing Association of Ontario’s Magdalena Kaiser and Canadian Trade Commissioner Dr. Janet Dorozynski PhD. They, along with dozens of Canadians producers and winemakers have presented many years of Canadian wine tastings in London, at Germany’s Prowein Trade Fair and most recently through masterclasses in Copenhagen and Berlin. Their efforts and an exponential leap in collective quality have helped to raise the profile of the great breadth of Canadian wines.

The Wine Marketing Association of Ontario’s Magdalena Kaiser

Is it not finally time to prove two 21st century facts? First that wine consumers from Timmins to Torino are actually privy to a vinous Canadiana scene that includes but is no longer confined to the gelid, glycerin and bracing late harvest elixir. Second, Icewine and other forms of fermented grapes are evermore intrinsically connected, bonded by their growers and makers whose climate change evolving portfolios are now the sort that are chock full of inclusivity. Is it not possible to celebrate Icewine without sacrificing the progresses made by other styles of wine? Of course it is and our Ontario (and also British Columbia, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Québec) includes all walks of appellative, varietal and stylistic life.

The Horseshoe Falls lit up in Pride colours

The time has come to reflect upon Icewine as an entity the likes of say VinSanto or Sauternes, sweet labours of love perpetuated because of tradition and climates that continue to encourage their production. Icewine in Ontario are intrinsically connected to a winery’s portfolio; to the consumer-friendly, classic and small lot wines. European wine producing regions were once sweet-centric too and Ontario is at long last maturing into a new epoch where Icewine the founder is begetting table wines, the current board of directors. They and all Canadian wines are prepared and experienced to travel far, well outside the Icewine universe. Their destination looks past infinity, to the beyond.

The Savoury – From Chef Tim Mackiddie’s “Savoury, Spicy and Sweet” Icewine pairing preparations

Back in January the WineAlign crü shuffled off to Niagara Falls for the 2023 iteration of Niagara’s Icewine Festival. It was inside the renovated event space halls of the Niagara Parks Power Station where the gala event was held. If you’ve not been the time has come to make a visit because the installations are spectacular. Then there is the inspiring experience that is a 600m walk through the early 1900s tunnel construction that empties beneath the Horseshoe Falls. Many Icewine and other Ontario wine samples were tasted that evening, this following a truly special Icewine Masterclass given by WMAO’s Kaiser at the tasting room of The Hare Wine Company. Kaiser put together an 18-strong Icewine line-up in conjunction with Chef’ Tim Mackiddie’s “Savoury, Spicy and Sweet” pairing menu, all to fascinating results. “Icewine is the strongest post pandemic recovery for a Niagara wine category,“ informed Kaiser. “Younger males lead the resurgence.” She noted an increased use in cocktails, making use of Icewine instead of simple syrup because the traditional dessert wine is such a high quality ingredient, with natural sweetness. At the gala it was Kaiser’s son Maximilian Smit, creator of the Niagara Icewine Sour, who mixed up two unique and bloody delicious Icewine cocktails for hundreds of guests. The masterclass and the cocktails demonstrated how Icewine is no longer just about dessert.

The Spicy – From Chef Tim Mackiddie’s “Savoury, Spicy and Sweet” Icewine pairing preparations

On Sunday after the Icewine fète the group paid two visits, to Queenston Mile Vineyard and Henry of Pelham Family Estate. The following 30 tasting notes cover Magdalena’s Masterclass and the wines tasted at the two Sunday morning stops.

Cave Spring Riesling Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Stars and acids through the proverbial roof with thanks to a November 14th harvest, earliest on record by what has to be a long-shot. Specs come in at 245 g\L RS, 15.3 TA, and 9 percent abv. Full aromatic wealth and viscosity, apricot and golden pineapple, acids coming through on the nose to set up everything wanted and needed on the palate. As unctuous and fell-throttle expressive an Icewine from riesling that could ever be. Kudos to the vintage and to the makers for capturing all parts at peak. Top performer without a doubt. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted January 2023

Henry Of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2019, VQA Short Hills Bench

Part scintillant and part fruit bomb with high active acidity in great categorical respect. Lemon, apricot and pineapple all in, gelid and cool, high in balancing acid from one of the earliest picks by one of the earlier pickers so certainly in the first two weeks of November. Also as much a petrol and airy aromatic propulsion signalling near equal to any indicators the fruit might elicit for Icewine temptation. With sugar plus acid so high and meshing together there are no spikes, searing moments or overt richness, though in the end there is a white peppery warmth. Lemon and tea, heavy sweetener and naturally tannic. Unique Icewine when you get down to the brass tacks. Registers as 9.5 percent alcohol and what’s also special is a saline streak running through. Sweet lemon desserts only serve to accentuate the sweetness and the lemon. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

The WineAlign Crü with Magdalena Kaiser

Magnotta Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula

A nose of ulterior style leading to different sort of reactions though the palate is much more classic, standard and expected. Reserved and limited and then exuberant, forceful, heavy steel reinforced. Really attacks the sides of the mouth upwards to the upper wisdom corners and pineapple is everywhere. Old school, white fleshed and high acid. 194 g\L of RS and 10 percent abv. Last tasted January 2023

The lemon iced tea in Icewine makes riesling go its own direction and run with the ideal. This has energy and pizzazz, style that makes one want to know more and more. Great tension and acidity puts this in a place of its own. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted blind at NWAC2022, June 2022

Riverview Cellars Estate Winery Riesling Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Exotic scents in riesling out of 2019 running the mango to pineapple, papaya to litchi gamut of ripe, tart, rich and creamy. Extreme sweetness and delectable flavour profile. Chewy stuff, heavy concentrate of the tropical doused by heavy yellow citrus. Lacks a bit of balance. 189 g\L of RS, 11 abv. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Byland Riesling Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Some understatement here, aromatically speaking at the very least and the first in a comprehensive Icewine tasting to feel herbal, stem-scented and evergreen savoury. Mint and fennel, sweetness never overloading the palate or making any demands. Almost a tonic or cocktail bitters note near the finish, though persistently subtle and agreeable. Unique Icewine is every which way but loose. 192 g\L RS, 11 abv. Drink 2023-2026. Last tasted January 2023

Byland Estate Winery is a newer Niagara-on-the-Lake, 13-acre vineyard owned by Jackson Bai since 2015. It was acquired from Frank Di Paola and his three decades of grape growing experience. The vineyard has been providing grapes for Magnotta Winery for 25 years. Their riesling Icewine is high-toned, aggressively tart and intensely implosive. Lemon and also lemongrass nose, orange crème brûlée and lime flavours with some bitterness inherent in all that layered citrus. Good length here. Tasted November 2020

Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Riesling Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Stratus Riesling Icewine 2020, VQA Niagara Lakeshore

Perhaps the most aromatic, palate density and intense character of any in a long Icewine flight but also a lovely swarthiness to take things to an entirely new level. Of promise and age-worthiness, to imagine a wine equipped with structure and fortitude, to change with incremental tempo (and opposite of haste), to spend a couple of decades evolving. Impressive and intoxicating in every way while sweetness is lowest in importance. 142 g\L RS, 9.3 tA, 14 abv. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted January 2023

Pillitteri Estates Winery Riesling Icewine 2017, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Densely concentrated, heavy fuel and sweetness overload Icewine that delivers all the expectations in that dessert wine category. Classic example, not overtly exotic but full of stone fruit in the peach, nectarine and yellow plum spectrum. Not the longest yet of a more than ample lingering finish. 235 g\L RS, 8 tA, 10 abv. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Lakeview Cellars Gewürztraminer Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Über sweet Icewine, oily of viscosity, a chewy mouthful of stone fruit fleshiness. Pulpy in textural feel, a mouthful all the way through. Yeoman acidity work and moderate length in a correct to highly proper example. Expressly gewürztraminer so it’s got that going for it, which is nice. 188 g\L RS, 9 TA, 9 abv. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Vineland Estates Vidal Icewine 2017, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Wildly aromatic Icewine, unique and savoury, almost smells like charcuterie with pork rillette and a mix of pickles. Does not act so overtly sweet as compared to so many others and is remarkably characterful. But just look at the numbers. Residual sugar of 271 g\L, 8.2 TA, 9 abv. Onion skin and the musky cured skin of pork salumi. So bloody interesting. Would age this a year or two. 271 g\L, 8.2 tA, 9 abvDrink 2025-2033. Tasted January 2023

Sue Ann Staff Howard’s Vidal Icewine 2017, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Desperately sweet and intensely concentrated Icewine, as fortified and full as they come. Not a tropical one but certainly the kind that makes one think of ripe stone fruit after a different sort of Ontario summer that turned into a hot September. Good capture of a season that was turned on its head that delivered something new. 209 g\L RS, 11 abv. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Chateau Des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2018, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Concentrated of fruit times more fruit sweetness to define the style and quality of this vidal in Icemen clothing. Pineapple and apricot namely, lemon drop and a tisane finish. Quite tannic, unexpectedly so. Drink 2023-2026. Last tasted January 2023

Lithe and charming use of vidal in Icewine from Château des Charmes, of such proper middle ground concentration and intensity. Sweet pear and caramel apple, mango purée and maple syrup on snow. Simple and oh so very effective. Drink 2020-2023

The Sweet – From Chef Tim Mackiddie’s “Savoury, Spicy and Sweet” Icewine pairing preparations

Hare Wine Frontier Collection Vidal Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Impressive concentration meets a savoury edginess, white peppery dusted and full on character of an Icewine made with vidal. Classic preparation and presentation, no side-steps or derivations but simple, capable and proud. Really well made. 171 g\L RS, 10.3 abv. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Reif Estate Grand Reserve Vidal Icewine 2018, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Indelibly stamped and incredible density from an Icewine that delivers maximum fruit substance from maximum effort. Here the work and the patience is justified because this is what the wine has to be. Acids do well to keep up with some much sweetness and fruit character. The crème brûlée of vidal all the way. 270 g\L RS, 10.5 tA, 9.5 abv. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023

Ferox By Fabian Reis Dornfelder Icewine 2017, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Pungent in so many ways with serious wood elements that manifest as soy, carob, dill, tar and chocolate. In a way tastes like Cherry Blossom in childhood memory recall but its clearly more complex that that. Pot of Gold perhaps, the finest Laura Secord mixed box and so much more. Chocolate and red jam persist long after the wine has been swallowed. As much like Port as it is representative of Icewine. Picked at -10 degrees Celsius and fermented for six weeks. 90 percent stainless steel and (10) neutral French oak. 250 g\L RS, 6.4 tA, 10 abv. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Pelee Island Winery Cabernet Franc Icewine 2017, VQA South Islands

Truly savoury, wholly identifiable as cabernet franc and ultimately a varietal wine that stands tall. Lacks concentration to be sure but ultimately this does the yeoman work. 187 g\L RS, 11 abv. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Redstone Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Really does taste like cabernet sauvignon but what really stands out is the candied red apple skin character above all else. A petrol note as well however subtle and always that truth in red fruit, of currant, pomegranate and cherry character. Quality Icewine from less than classic varietal origins. 224.5 g\L RS, 10.3 tA, 9.5 abv. Last tasted January 2023

This is a well-priced Icewine made from cabernet franc with tell-tale varietal signs. Smells like red currants, roasted peppers, strawberry or cherry pie and Ju Jubes, a Canadian Candy classic or wait, Swedish Berries. Nicely concentrated with mid-weight Icewine feel and really good length. Quality, not over the top and a pique of relish make this a highly plausible dessert wine for red wine drinkers. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted November 2020

Queenston Mile Vineyard Blanc De Noirs Brut 2018, VQA St. David’s Bench

Two-hour cold soak for colour and spends 38 months on lees for one of Niagara’s most fully developed and also bodied Blanc de Noirs, bar none. Fruit comes from The Mile’s original 25 year-old plantings, totalling 33 acres. A light toasty and generously expressive traditional method sparkling wine not so much pink as platinum gold shaded subtly of pink salmon. High acid above 9 g\L of tA and just a few pinches (in and around) 4 g/L of residual sugar. Taut and residing somewhere between bracing and embracing in a balanced pinot noir off of these deep and heavy clay St. David’s Bench soils, to suit up sparkling from pinot noir ready, willing and able to abide. Dry and focused, precise, proper and balanced. Just a few more than 300 cases are produced. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Vineyard Grand Mile 2017, VQA St. David’s Bench

Just about half the production of the Blanc de Noirs (at 155 cases total) and a traditional method example with 11.2 g/L of tA and higher sugar than the B de N, upwards of 9 g/L. Aged 39 months on the lees, fuller and though the acid is so high there’s actually some creamy and mouth filling expansiveness to this pinot noir based sparkling wine. The matching sugar walks hand in hand along with the pierce of intensity so expect nervous energy and tension from this antonym to the straight pinot noir. Needs more time to integrate, seek and accede its intended balance. Last tasted January 2023

Odd climatic vintage and while chardonnay had little trouble staying the course the same could not be said for pinot noir. It was late and it was all strawberry in 2017 so at 40 per cent of the classic mix it just can’t be denied. White strawberry in sparkling that is, leafy and savoury, unique beyond. Nearly 40 months on lees puts this is a justice league where Niagara sparklers congregate and debate with philosophical force. Grand Mile is a contemplative one, its tension suppressed yet ready to rise anytime. The moment has not yet arrived but when it does sometime in 2023 this fizz will stand up to be noticed. Such are the important matters of sparkling wine programs like these in Ontario. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2022

Queenston Mile Viognier Pét-Nat 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench

There have been still viogniers and pinot noir Pét-Nats but methinks this to be the first ancestral method viognier for The Mile. Cloudy and aromatically tart, a 100 per cent, estate fruit viognier that acts as much like a yeasty sour beer as much as it might seem to fit into the sparkling wine system. Pretty clean to be honest and there is certainly a mashed banana, creamed mango and puréed pineapple feel from this pèttilant speaking directly to hipster fashion. It’s the bacon for vegans and the air-conditioner for fans of fans. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Vineyard Pinot Noir Pét-Nat Sparkling Rosé 2020, VQA St. David’s Bench

Strawberries in a glass, through and through, the brain trust, child and wild thing amour of winemaker Yvonne Irving and if asked, I would imagine winemaker partner Rob Power saying, “I love all my children and I want them to discover themselves.” Which is what this pink P-N is want to do but more so allow a curious crowd the ability to get with trends, ancient method resurgences and wild thing vibes. Much drier than expected with a bin full of play dough, rye bread in the proofing stage and stewing strawberry/rhubarb. There is an unusual and au naturel, dancing in the dark profile to be sure but this kind of enzymatic presence is something to behold. Mon dieu Cellar Monkey! Well, remember this. “You can’t start a fire without a spark.” Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Mile High NV, VQA St. David’s Bench

A Charmat method sparkling wine in a heavy fruit matched by sour lactic yogurt meets lime doused mango kind of profile. More than ample to impressive complexity for an Italian method sparkling wine though without the traditional lees aging there is a brief exchange of values and shorter finish. No surprise and because much is happening both on the nose and the palate this services the intellect although the story ends in an abrupt way. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, VQA St. David’s Bench

From the estate Queenston Mile Vineyard and spends a year in neutral barriques plus undergoes partial malolactic fermentation. Flinty and really quite yeasty for chardonnay, a raw bread dough note which seems to be something that happens in many of the QM still and especially sparkling wines. Fine bitters too, the kind you wish for in your cocktail with that kiss of oak you cherish and are so pleased it’s that and no more. Some capsicum and sweet basil come later, integrating and making for a complex and quality chardonnay. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Pinot Noir Unoaked 2021, VQA St. Davids Bench

As advertised there is no wood employed to ink or embellish this neutral St. David’s Bench pinot noir and the natural result is just that. Maybe not a first but writing “unoaked” on a pinot noir label is certainly not the norm and here we are with Queenston Mile’s fresh 2021. Would like to say this is all about fruit but my there are so many more goings on. Likely a healthy stem inclusion because the notes from nightshade and other sundry vegetables are swirling in the checkered and mottled aromatic profile. Some resin to varnish scents, gentle swarthiness manifesting the rusticity but naked is naked and this wine wears clarity on its sleeve. Smells like a September tomato canning day and tastes like a strawberry-rhubarb fruit roll up, though much more of saline piquant-tang than that of any level of sweetness within. Crunchy as well with a good long finish. Imagine the excitement and vinous intensity were there a higher level of whole bunch and carbonic maceration methodology involved. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted twice, January 2023

Queenston Mile Proud Pour Pinot Noir For Bees 2020, VQA St. David’s Bench

A wine that exults the idea of “Cheers to Change” as five per cent of profits gives back to 20 non-profit organizations. Sees eight months in wood to put it in the middle tier of the three QM pinots. Gains a sweetness and a cream-centred textural verging towards Turkish Delight in a pinot not that is eminently and imminently drinkable from the day it’s bottled. No tension or sharp angles here, just roundness and amenability. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted January 2023

Queenston Mile Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, VQA St. David’s Bench

Nearly three years have passed and things have really changed, as they should have and now the whole bunch retreats from its original attack, fruit flanks running short in residual terms. The verdancy of stem inclusion makes this feel almost reductive but mostly it is the toasted and roasted notes that remain. The flavours are most important at this stage and so food pairing is truly key. Duck confit and crispy potatoes but also a sweetened fruit demi-glacé would elevate the wine and leave the savoury exaggerations behind. Last tasted January 2023

The ’17 is even dustier than ’16, in fact it’s sitting compressed and pressed in a bowl inside a bin. Roasted, toasted and intense, particularly string, grippy and potent. The warmth of St. David’s and the heat of September really speaks but curiously noted and question asked is where is the strawberry jam? Lost in the foil provided by whole bunches it would seem. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted March 2019

Queenston Mile Vineyard Cabernet Franc Icewine 2017, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Once again a wine from a vintage turned upside down with cool summer weather resolving into the hottest September and early October on record. For cabernet franc the harvest date was January 2, 2018 and yet for 2017 that would have been a vintage where acidity was easily maintained to that date. Clocks in above 9 g\L to match the 204 g\L of residual sugar with esteem and balance for Icewine of proper red fruit character, part raspberry and part red currant. Nice level of tart here but there is a roundness to what could have been sharp edges. Well made to be sure. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blanc 2015, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench

From a specially identified block of chardonnay vines. Best of the best are destined for this top Niagara sparkling and it was Matthew of the Speck Bros. that determined the direction of this Ontario essential. One quarter barrel aged and 60 months on lees, as gently toasted and smooth sailing as a Blanc de Blancs can be – in the context of fizz that is always a scintillant without repose. Some warmth now emitting from 2015 matched by intensity and so very long. Last tasted January 2023

As always 100 per cent chardonnay and 2015 is perhaps the vintage of the most golden toast, as if made by agemono, with the most lemon and lees ever assembled in a Cuvée Catharine, vintage-dated Sparkling wine. An intensity of aromas swirl around in citrus centrifuge into which the gross cells don’t seem to want to go. On the palate is where they rest, layered and leesy, textured with a sense of weightlessness and wonder. Henry of Pelham channelling an inner Japanese cooking technique. Feels like some time is warranted to pull all this together. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted October 2020

Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2020, VQA Short Hills Bench

When winemaker Lawrence Buehler came on board in 2017 he quite soon thereafter introduced 3000L foudres to age riesling. For Henry of Pelham it continues to evolve as a game changer. Tames acidity to an extent while in certain years the truth spoken by this varietal wine in the SFR line is truly indicative of Henry of Pelham’s raison d’Être. Not merely a matter of high intensity (though there is plenty of that in high regard) but the warm 2020 season concentrates the fluid to gelid texture up the middle of this balanced wine. Youthfulness supersedes what secondary notes might choose to emerge but there is a sense of early emission, namely petrol or the equivalent aching to emerge just around the bend. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2019, Sustainable, VQA Short Hills Bench

Vines upwards of 30 years of age provide the drupe and great Scott (or Speck) fruit it is indeed for what is almost Willamette sweet in correspondence and style. That strawberry purée and raspberry coulis effect comes pure, unadulterated and about as natural as one might imagine a varietal wine of this level of quality could come to be. Some sugar involved, maximizing around 7 g\L. Not a year of major tension but they can’t all be so drink this young, for four to five years after harvest, for best results. Last tasted January 2023

Not so crazy young anymore in fact the perfume has become an intoxicant, spellbinding, hypnotic even. But also because the oak vanillin swirls through and is further imagined as sweetness on the palate. In the zone, as they say, all parts melted and melded together. These next six months will mark the height of this SFR Reserve with the succeeding two years being the slowly descending denouement. Last tasted November 2022

Crazy young but somehow lovely aromatic potpourri to the SFR ’19 and a benchmark as such for the Short Hill sub-appellation. What you want to nose from the are that borders, ties and links all surrounding pinot noir lands together, especially Twenty Mile and St. David’s Bench. This just fits right in and into itself with snug togetherness. Juicy fruit, fine acids and tightly coiled tannin. Just the right kind of sour tang. Real varietal gastronomy and ideal for three to four years, some salty protein and even a side of pickle. Drink 2020-2024. Tasted November 2020

Henry Of Pelham Baco Noir Speck Family Reserve 2020, VQA Ontario

The top seller of all of its Pelham wines and just about as promising a vintage there could possibly be for this scientifically orchestrated varietal wine. High yielding season, absence of stress, plenty of ripe fruit for a hybrid variety and ultimately the best there can really be. Picking time is crucial to ward off incoming and oncoming funk which this fruit-centric wine does not show. No barnyard, earthiness nor swarthy character neither. No – it’s so very blackberry and dark cherry, void of the feral and so well assimilated of its American oak. Pure honest tang and even though the residual sugar pushes 12 g\L it’s not the most prominent aspect of the wine. Tannins are also sweet, plush and positive. It just works, like it or not. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023

Good to go!

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