Chardonnay is never too cool for school

Flight #1 at the 2024 School of Cool
(c) i4C

Will fully admit to having seriously considered not using the word “cool” in the title for this latest exposé on i4C, Niagara’s annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Conference. Then good conscience and reality set in because the original dub for Canada’s most important and successful wine congress will always be too good to dismiss. They coined it, built it and people have most certainly come. To foresee and then to consummate this collective pursuit of excellence inscribes Cool Chardonnay into the lexicon of wine forever. Hard to predict just how many more of these joyous to potentially annual profound (four-day) weekends there will be, but were this the last then hundreds upon hundreds of producers, winemakers, media, influencers and consumers over the years will have walked away happy, better for it and with memories to last a lifetime. The extraordinary 2024 edition of i4C went deeper still, to deliver the coolest quality and finest balance between information, socialization, revelry, society and of course, chardonnay. Cool as ever, gotta be cool, relax and never too cool for school.

Three panels of i4C School of Cool 2024

The School of Cool gets into sessions with wise and wily words from Past Chair Suzanne Janke, a lifer for the cool climate cause, public face of Stratus Vineyards and light of the room. Janke’s input, along with the i4C Board, Concierge Kim Auty and Event Director Trisha Molokach shows a highest level of intuition for what can only be judged as a cracker choice for keynote speaker at the 2024 School of Cool. That would be the affable character, next level intelligence and dry as the desert humour of Austrian-born, London-living Master of Wine Stefan Neumann. Mr. Neumann peeks out from behind his little boy grin to invoke the legend that is Laura Catena, to introduce his intentions as it pertains to cool climate chardonnay. “She slapped me on the brain and said there is no such thing as good warm climate chardonnay.” The wheels are turning, theories circulate and then from his own powers of reasoning Stefan announces, “I really think the world needs to know more about Canada and cool climate chardonnay, because it’s really important.” Not that he is late to the party, but the choir nods silently and knowingly, all smiling wryly. You can hear the collective internal dialogue working. “We like this guy.” Then he speaks to they who are not in the room. “Every cool chardonnay has a cool admirer out there,” he insists, “just as every pot has a lid.” The analogy might have got lost in translation from within the history of some ironic Viennese dialect. Note to self: Send Ernst Molden a note to ask for clarification. In any case Neumann comes from a place of hospitality. “As a guest you need someone who can help you,” he explains. “As a sommelier, if I’m going to explain cool climate chardonnay to a guest I’m not going to start with the Winkler classification.” Truer words never spoken.

School of Cool
(c) i4C

South Africa’s Anthony Hamilton Russell leads the first session where things turn immediately laugh out loud funny, if simply because Hamilton Russell is an Afrikaans lekker of off-the-charts intellect, dry wit and a brand of self-deprecating meets sweet roasting and toasting humour that is by all accounts infectious. “The only constant is change,” he begins with an address that may or may not attempt to tackle climate change. “All the hard rains and frosts are just noise in the background and it’s about how we are going to deal with it.” Anthony wisely chooses to order the chardonnay tasting from north to south. His first notation is to explain “how important it is to precipitate proper dormancy in chardonnay.” Then he poses the question, “what is the worst climate problem?“ He is answered by (Nova Scotia’s) Blomidon Estate winemaker Simon Rafuse. “Depending on when you ask me, the answer will be about what just happened.” For Adamo’s Vanessa McKean “it’s a big catch up in the spring to get ahead of things, remove the (geo-thermal) blankets as late as possible before the weeds get out of hand and also late frosts compounded by the textiles still in surround of the vines.” Westcott’s Casey Kulczyk notes that bud break occurs earlier, growing seasons are warmer and ripening is quicker, while also more uneven. Are you sensing a (lack of) discernible Canadian patterning? Even in winemaking, from west to east Canada is comprised of many different vine-growing countries.

Sparkling Flight led by Peter Rod
(c) i4C

Session two is led by Peter Rod, he of chivalrous and consortable character, a prodigy and mentor for Niagara educator royalty and if the audience thinks Neumann’s humour is dry, they are then treated to Rod’s mix of dead-pan, amusement and bemusement. Fine decision to put Peter at the fore for the Sparkling wine flight because nowhere does that category receive more attention, research and investigation than that at his seat of higher learning. Peter Rod is surrounded by bubbles at Brock University’s CCOVI where fizz is considered on a daily basis. An effervescent panel delves deep into discourse for what Peter dubs as “Bubbles on the Rise.” Then the third set of eight pours, this time returning to still waters, holds title for “Chardonnay Unbound,” a varietal discovery with different faces, from different countries. Stefan Neumann returns and keeps the room engaged. Then Suzanne Janke is back at the podium and tells the audience her outfit blends seamlessly into the drapes, as if no one had noticed. Janke’s words are sing-song, showing the skills of a melodist with a sweeping sense of purpose. All she says focuses on the patrons, panelists and chardonnay, but never the I. Piano-woman, “quick with a joke or to light up your smoke….Oh, la, la-la, di-dee-da. La-la, di-dee-da, da-dum.”

With Katie Dickieson, Emma Garner and Ben Minaker – Andrew Peller Ltd.

In the end these are three memorable panel experiences at the 2024 i4C Cool Chardonnay School of Cool. Three expertly moderated sessions by Anthony Hamilton Russell, Peter Rod and keynote speaker Stefan Neumann MS. Intel of the highest order from 21 Chardonnay winemakers. In 12 years of attending this conference there has never been a better organized, finer seamless set of transitions or more to learn. Bravo to Concierge Kim Auty, Event Director Trisha Molokach, Past Chair Suzanne Janke, the producers and entire team of volunteers. Friday night we tasted Friday Night Flights with the producers at Cherry Lane Farms in Vineland. On Saturday night we returned for Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting and Dinner at The Riverbend Inn, Niagara-on-the-Lake. And there were visits orchestrated by the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario’s Andrea Peters. To Chef Ryan Crawford’s Bar Ruffino with J-L Groux, Dean Stokya and Suzanne Janke of Stratus Vineyards. To Dobbin Estate with Wade Dobbin, Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling. To Flat Rock Cellars with Ed Madronich. To Le Clos Jordanne with Thomas Bachelder, Phillip Brown, Kerri Crawford and tasty treats from Chef Crawford. Finally, an i4C lunch at Westcott Vineyards’ Butlers’ Grant Vineyard with Grant Westcott, Carolyn Hurst, Casey Kulczyk and magnificence from Chef Tim Mackiddie. Alas, here are 83 tasting notes, 63 for chardonnay and 20 others.

Three panel blinds

Blomidon Estate Winery Chardonnay 2021, Nova Scotia

“We have been growing chardonnay since the 1990s,” tells winemaker Simon Rafuse. “We can definitely ripen and picking is weeks ahead of the past, but we have experienced more extreme climate events in the last decade, whether it be frost, flash flooding, polar vortexes, hurricanes and disease pressure.” His ’21 is made in a clean style, whole cluster pressed, on lees for 12 months. Sharp yet rich, intense while full, apropos, meaningful and direct. Top vintage without a shadow of a doubt. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Adamo Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2022, VQA Ontario

From an emerging Ontario region – Hockley Valley. Does not quite feel like 100 percent chardonnay musqué but more like an interplanting or layering with some linear, vertical and incisive Burgundian chardonnay. Less fruit from this bottle replaced by mineral salts yet with no compromise to the flowers by musqué. Producers and consumers of fleshy to buttery chardonnay will find holes but the rest will relish in this outcome all the same. “We farm in an area not great for growing grapes” says winemaker Vanessa McKean. ”We don’t have a large body of water to mitigate extreme temperatures so we cover out our entire 18 acres with geo-textile blankets.” Air flow through the vineyard is essential and being at the top of the hill is helpful. Barrel fermented in neutral wood with the musqué portion delivering more floral notes than most Ontario chardonnay. There is a tinned orchard fruit character that invites more than it distracts and the sharpness of this palate journeying acidity is really quite special. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted twice at i4C, July 2024

The winemakers are alright – Westcott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Block 76 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

From the home farm of 26 acres and the lowest elevation, teardrop block on shales and gravels, facing east. Earlier ripening, acid retentive and sees 10 months in barriques, followed by six months in puncheon filled with the previous vintages’ clean lees. Like connective tissue that links the past to the present to prepare the chardonnay for a longer future. Texture is mineral, set below tannin, in command of the palate from a chardonnay built to celebrate and also abide by it’s double-barrelled shotgun approach. Fires, attacks and conquers the palate from above and below so that there is no escape. Spirit of ’76 all the way with more vibrancy than ever. Impressive like few others. Will age really well. Made for seafood dishes poached, bathed and sautéed in butter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Greg Yemen – The Organized Crime

The Organized Crime Winery Inc. Chardonnay Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench

As implosive and protected as any Niagara chardonnay to speak of a year older example that acts and feels as young as any on recent record. Terrific sweetness of fruit and a testament to a full and in this case also long ripening season. Crisp and biting, orchard fruit crunch and no sign of breaking down. Gambles with nature, shows off precision winemaking and confidence exudes from a chardonnay constantly reopening and one you can do so much with. There are savoury elements that suggest food pairing with be a most fun and rewarding exercise. Last tasted twice at i4C, July 2024

Powerful, reductive and in charge chardonnay, assuming the risk and in delivery of the reward. Platinum gold hue and attitude, serious, grippy and über conscious of its abilities. Top notch with vanilla and cereals that swirl into the full fruit complement of a chardonnay you just bloody want to drink. Consume away, with abandon because it asks this of you. Abide and oblige. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted blind at NWAC2022, June 2022

Kellerei Bozen Chardonnay Riserva Stegher 2020, Alto Adige, Italy

From a vineyard at 650m with picking happening at least a week earlier than just 10 years ago and a dolomitic mountain air that breathes great life into this special sort of cool climate chardonnay. A yellow apple just short of ripe, with acidity sweeter than the drupe itself and a classic northerly sharpness that speaks to place as well as any European chardonnay. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Planeta Chardonnay 2022, Sicilia DOC

Production began in 1995 while the vines are now nearly 45 years of age. In the southwest part of Sicily, in the Ulmo area around the village of Menfi where a corridor of wind, “our favourite friend,” tells Santi Planeta, blowing through between the lake and the sea. Through vines growing between 100 and 450m, breathing cool life, especially in the summer. The 2022 vintage saw plenty of rain though not concentrated at any particular time and so the constant events of moderation were something remarkable considering how often extreme climate events are increasingly more prevalent. The coming vintage of 2023 and 2024 will be affected by them, mostly because there was no rain. This chardonnay is impeccably balanced between fruit and acidity, acidity and texture, texture and tannin. The progression is seamless, the result precise and anyone who does not the recognize the experience and continued work put in may not be paying close attention. That’s fine but know just how special a (relatively) large production, semi-cool climate chardonnay this truly is. Planeta’s year-to-year consistency is truly impressive. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel En Aarde Valley, South Africa

The spirited intensity is unrelenting and speaks to how the HRV chardonnay tastes more profoundly serious than any other of its ilk. “Young and primary,” insists Anthony Hamilton Russell. “I like the complexity that our chardonnay develops with time in the bottle.” Well said but truth be told the wine already exhibits an electric variegate character and so what’s to come may just blow the mind. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Freshness and abundance incarnate for Hemel-en-Aarde Valley chardonnay from the HR team that simply gets this grape from this place. A citrus vintage, less reductive than some whilst bursting with energy. Delight in lemon custard, all the zest, crunchy, mellifluously honeyed and never over-arching above and beyond the target. A scintillant of fruit through variety, to ache with love and to please, simply and unequivocally by design. Peak performance, summarily in the best of ways. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2024

The Foreign Affair Blanc de Blancs 2021, Methode Traditionelle VQA Vinemount Ridge

Light toast, easy goes, no long lees but a good signed lease to hang around for a few years time. True as chardonnay blanc de blanc, apples part terpene and part mashed. Smells like baked and cooled apple pie. Palate spirit yet agin those apples are all over, all consuming and all in. Some wood aging, Brut in style, somewhere between six and 10 g/L of dosage laid over 24 months leased lees aging. The second iteration of this sparkling wine. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

The bottle lists Vinemount Ridge as the fruit source though the website writes Lincoln Lakeshore so lets go with the bottle! Regardless we are looking at 100 percent chardonnay crafted in the dry, intense, citric, high energy style. This shows real energy and a couple of sips nearly take your breath away. The elucidations are green apple, piques of white pepper and the flavour profile slash texture much like sabayon extended by a few shots of limoncello. So much interest here. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Stonebridge Blanc De Blanc Brut Nature 2020, VQA Four Mile Creek

More autolytic than some and even more than that, mellow, malolactified and softening quickly. Botanical flavours and fine bitters, creamy style, easy and ready. From chardonnay first made off of the estate in 2017 and looking forward to seeing what can be learned from the idylls of experience towards trying this first sparkling wine made at Stonebridge. Old puncheons and stainless steel combine for a punchiness that come out of several cuvées to try and abide by site, structure and ultimately consumer appeal. Richness of the site begets texture and in turn that appeal. The flavours persist though this is ready to drink sooner than many. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Kew Vineyards Blanc de Blanc 2017, VQA Beamsville Bench

Golden toast, truly brioche style, equipped with fruit a plenty marked by a note that reminds of good and plenty. Stage presence, persistence and length. A dosage of 5.9 g/L of residual sugar which may be the highest in a flight of eight but still very low for sparkling that is essentially dry. Made by Phillip Dowell with chardonnay that would have been planted on the property back in 1980. As concentrated as it gets for chardonnay sparkling wine but the vintage was acid driven and so the sugar extends the flesh. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

High energy, raging acidity, captivating and intense Blanc de Noirs right here. Eye-opening, olfactory shocking and palate enervating in every which way but loose. Taut, tight and demanding. Party wine. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted October 2020

Leaning Post Traditional Method Sparkling Blanc de Blancs 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench

From Hemeris Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, primary fermentation for six months in barrel, another six with lees and then the full lees aging of 36 months. An emotive sparkling wine that elicits and solicits emotion. Could this be a unicorn wine in its own special way? Evocative of what it makes you feel and what you would like a bubble to taste like? The long lees aging is clearly appropriate and leads the autolysis to a place of warmth, beauty and comfort. Oxidative and yet searing, a blanc be blancs no doubter that mans serious chardonnay business. Complex and curious, crafty and creative.The acidity here is special and in charge. An ideal mix of 9.2 g/L of total acidity and 3 g/L of residual sugar. “The vineyard was asking to become this kind of wine” explains Ilya Senchuk. “The purpose is a single vineyard expression.” Here’s to hoping the 2019 will add a few more months on lees to take that next step upwards. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Single vineyard block called Hemeris (an old term for garden, or “something like that,” from the Greek). Of chardonnay, location between (Hidden Bench’s) Rosomel Vineyard and Cave Spring, picked late September and sometimes early October, for sparkling. Base wine is barrel fermented and aged in oak for six months. Spent 36 months on lees in bottle, finished at 2 g/L dosage (so essentially bone dry) and is now about to be released. This was the wine Nadia Senchuk pushed her husband for and this is the chardonnay tract that was needed to create it. Listen to the vineyard says Ilya, “because it’s basically growing bubbles.” Rich and exciting in the same breath, essential through autolytic response elicited and the breath stolen, literally taken away, every move made for the connection between I and it. An auspicious debut and were it not for the prophetic mind and ravishing palate of the winemaker’s better half, well then access to supply might not be so limited. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022

Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars Brut Reserve R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley

Aromatic complexity, a chardonnay and pinot noir (55-45) sear of raging citrus but never lean because there is flesh all over the palate. The lemon segments are ripe and delicious, the red fruit character compliments with added spice, the persistence endless and the winemaking clearly coming from a place of experience and respect to place. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Moutnain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment

Stoic, reserved, full scenting, flavoured and expressive. Tons of fruit here in what could only be 100 percent chardonnay. From a vineyard planted in the 1990s to Clone 95 chardonnay and a place of incredible consistency, “one of the most I’ve ever worked with,” tells winemaker Lawrence Buhler. Sees 54 months on its lees and while it may be difficult four to five years ahead to know what will happen – this is Ontario’s benchmark sparkling wine that always comes through. Not merely a matter of replication but more like intuition conjoined with persistence. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been before – well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Jacques Viljoen – Boschendal

Boschendal Cap Classique Jean Le Long Prestige Cuvée Blanc De Blancs 2012, WO Elgin

Presented by cellar master Jacques Viljoen for a sparkling wine coming from one of South Africa’s coolest climate area. The first vintage was 2007 and these are vines planted south-facing (i.e. cooler in the southern hemisphere) and facing the sea. A place where grapes can hang long and develop phenolic ripeness even while coming in at a brix number just above 19. Lower dosage now and so the autolytic notes (if not globally classic in their expression) and also excitement are increased. As much toast, autolytic and oxidative notes as any in a blind flight of eight. Pushes the envelope to see what can be done with sparkling wine, malolactic fermentation, wood aging, near dry dosage and lees aging. Not so much the classic brioche or baked bread representation but there are complex notions perceived from that aforementioned style clearly chosen, conceived, attempted and for the greater part, succeeded. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Kyle Loney and Whitney Collins – Advini and Domaine Laroche

Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Vaudevey Premier Cru 2022, Bourgogne AOC, France

The word precise is often used to describe Chablis and many other global chardonnays, sometimes gratuitously but here perfectly applies to the Laroche Vaudeyey. Les VdV ’22 is focused to a virtue with its equality, equanimity and equilibrium from start to finish. A lexical entry to figure out the crux and relationship between cru and village. Tasted a second time, July 2024

The immediate feeling perceived would be of a chardonnay bottled with lees, of a certain level of autolysis though neither by brioche or with respect to the sparkling kind. More like washed cheese rind, preserved lemon and that kind of texture that skin contact whites also deliver. The sort that settles on the tongue like a dissolving salve but here the subtlety suggest lees in the bottle more than light “orange.” In fact this is essential Chablis and does it not just feel like Ontario winemakers (in particular) are trying to emulate such a style by keeping lees in their bottles? Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind i4C, July 2024

Deux Roches Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes Deux Roches 2022, Bourgogne AOC, France

Also a bottled with lees style of chardonnay with a level of richness so rightly and righteously older/traditional schooled, but so bloody clean and expertly made. Express and expert tang, layers of citrus, more grapefruit than many, fine tonics and also sweet bitters. There is some fat here but also acidity and verticality, in other words tension, more so than many of the appellation. Recommended by Export Manager Romain Bourgeois and also Stefan Neumann M.S. to pair with The Little Sparrow, a.k.a. La Vie En Rose, the one and only Édith Piaf. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Bachelder Chardonnay Grimsby Hillside Vineyard Frontier Block 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

So much to digest, first with knowledge of chardonnay in the hands of one monkified human that shall be named Bachelder and second of so much to take in and absorb from the label on the bottle. Niagara Cru (there are many), Single Vineyard (there are more), Grimsby Hillside Vineyard (current status Grand Cru, in progress) and Frontier Block (one of two within the great new frontier, inclusive of Red Clay Barn). Two-toned, of bites and textural chew, sexy chardonnay, clean and focused. Highest level aromatics at the peak of what is possible out of Ontario, positively spicy, white peppery even. Cleanest lees usage for a chardonnay of clarity and relatively speaking, also substance. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Vintage number three from Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and now more specific by way of a split, with the Frontier Block as the plot within the larger plot, along with that of Red Clay Barn. Drilling down into this historical vineyard that has risen as fast as any New World terroir, just about anywhere these sorts of things are measured. Here named for the final frontier, that being the “last terroir” in Niagara and who knows, maybe it will soon be the first rolling off of everyone’s lips. GHV-FB 2021 is a force, that much is clear from the first look. Or nose, for what matters. Cool and stony style from a wide open space where limestone, shale and gravels conspire to create something new and with absolute potential. It’s already arrived thank you very much and while words like luxe and opulent do not come to the tip, others like succulent and scintillating do. Just something so real and right at your doorstep, vivid beyond chardonnay compare, a stealth fish swimming in clear waters. Truly complex for chardonnay and it must be noted, unlike any other in the world though at the same time feeling like something you’ve known your whole life. Make an exception to delve into this exception because when it comes to chardonnay, this is what we need. Remarkable clarity and distinction, precision extraordinaire and a wine to cast nets far and wide to secure as many bottles that could be found. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted December 2023

Thirty Bench Chardonnay Small Lot Extended Lees Aging 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

Spent 22 months in barrel, in other words space was not needed for new juice after 10, nor did Emma Garner feel the need to remove this lot and so 22 months it was. For good reason, great measure and bonafide success. You know the extra wood melt is there and integration is so complete. No compromise to fruit from a vintage aboard the Beamsville Bench that gave of itself selflessly to mingle in cahoots with the cohorts of those barrels and nuances at every turn. Acumen begets probability which in turn generates prospect. Conclusions drawn are expressed with silent nods, a twinkle and smile. This will age gracefully for 10 years. Tasted a second time, July 2024

Maximum ripeness, warm vintage no doubt, captured and locked into what feels like a reserve style of chardonnay. Full and fine, fleshy and yet sturdy, chiseled musculature, riveting and attention so locked in. As is ours because we simply can’t turn away. Not an easy vintage tells Emma Garner because there was some rot, botrytis and less than desirable grapes. But there was also plenty of great fruit once the chaff was culled, the wheat came in and in turn a terrific chardonnay was made. The length is outstanding. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Stratus Vineyards Chardonnay Amphora 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Several factors are here at play, namely lees but also vessel so that the mineral aspect exhumed and manifested as texture makes us think about place. Spices run amok and that housing continues to occupy the impression that is distinctly Ontario chardonnay. Bottled with lees would be the reason behind the feeling and also the fact that it has been aged in amphora. First edition, fermented and aged in the clay vessels, influenced by Rene Barbier Jr. says winemaker Dean Stoyka. “It really respects the fruit and causes some restraint in the wine,” he explains. “Giving some salinity and richness on the mid palate.” A unique way to make chardonnay indeed. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Along with cabernet franc this chardonnay was also tucked into and raised in amphora, no surprise because these have been two varieties suited up for experimental tests. Very late harvested (November 4th) from the 2021 vintage and specs are not very elevated for this wine. Moderate across the board and yet it is the clay that defines what we nose, taste and feel. Wet clay, a preserve with notable vegetal and savoury elements, banana esters, soft wool and ultimately a new set of varietal parameters imagined. One assumes this is bottled with a similar amount of lees as the R & D Stratus OG chardonnay but the clarity and transparency of the AC suggests something other, or wise. All in all a conundrum frankly, jury still out, much left to figure, pilot, trial, error and decide. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Maenad Wine Company’s Yvonne Irvine

Maenad Wine Co. Chardonnay Skin Contact 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench

Orange chardonnay is a thing and this leads by example. Cloudy, hazy and yet much cleaner than the visuals might suggest. From Yvonne Irvine’s virtual wine project, made at Creekside and sold through the retail license at Marynissen Estates. Breaks down regular conventions like busy beavers taking apart wood and making their dens. To be honest skin contact wines don’t get much more delicious than this, especially from chardonnay, fruit having been “borrowed” from the vineyard owned and farmed at Niagara College. Full malolactic, lees stirring, older French wood for seven months. The richness, roundness and cozy-fuzzy feeling on the palate shows just how well this turned out. Should be so interesting to see how this ages – can’t hep but think it will go through the process with ease. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Stefan Neumann MS

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

As full, rich and riveting a style of Niagara chardonnay as there has ever been. Ripeness at peak, wood in full glory, generously yet judiciously used and the overall effect is something usually reserved for what many will think of as a story written over centuries by Beaune chardonnay. There is delicacy here and if this chardonnay were a book it would be a page turner, which says this vintage in particular should likely appeal to a great and wide audience. Make no mistake though because a wine like this is comfortably affordable to the haves. That it turns out to be a Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling made chardonnay from a top warmth vintage comes as little surprise. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Morgan Juniper – 16 Mile Cellar

16 Mile Vineyard Chardonnay Civility 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench

Just carries and emits the feel of classic chardonnay winemaking, without hesitation or equivocation to result in something so knowably Niagara. The wood is on the weighty side and maturity has begun to see this wine acting its age. “I really think it’s important to honour the process of patience in winemaking,” says winemaker Morgan Juniper. The opportunity is not always available to do that but the ripeness here presented the proposition on a platter. “This wine is like waiting for a child to actualize their full potential,” she adds. “I wanted to push the boundaries to see this actualize at a later date.” As it has and the window is fully open with another year or two of enjoying this light lees-affected, barrel-aged and now of a chardonnay at this all in butterscotch stage. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Not labeled as such but essentially a Reserve wine taken from a single barrel housing all estate fruit. High level of concentration and richness in the face of a vintage considered cool and challenging, but when you take a smallest of small lot wines like this that just does not apply. Everything about this is classic, basket pressed, natural ferment, full natural malolactic, 22 months maximum for oak aging, Burgundian obviously and medium of toast. “We come to barrel turbid – we like density,” notes Peter Gamble. (Peter) and Ann Sperling really liked this one particular barrel and decided to put it to magnums only. From late September and early October picks, finished at 14.5 percent alcohol and ultimately mouthfeel that rivals some pretty warm wine growing regions. A chardonnay that moves beyond Bourgogne to offer up its very own definition of Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench. Last tasted July 2024

Friday, Saturday and Media room tastings

Trius Chardonnay Showcase Wild Ferment 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

A matter of factor decided by two essential aspects, the first being this chardonnay’s wild ferment and the second surely vintage. Turbidity endured and yeasty ebullition understood are how Wild Ferment ’21 co-opt and conjoin for aromas dedicated and unique to the Trius distinction. Scents of tropical fruit bathing in opaque waters cleansed by energy and movement to result in seriously complex chardonnay. Some spice tipping the tongue and tripping the palate fantastic for machinations of dreams and fantasy. Curious 2021, wild and woolly of texture with the confusion in delivery of a great part of the fun. The back label reminds that the fruit source continues to be Watching Tree Vineyard. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Rosehall Run Chardonnay JCR Rosehall Vineyard 2021, VQA Prince Edward County

More of a restrained, stoic and while not reductive as chardonnay per se there is a wall erected between aromatics and early joy. A JCR dictated by its extract and structure, a compound butter in hard shell, surely not one in delivery of early returns. The crispiest, crunchiest, saltiest and most savoury of all the Dan Sullivan draws from the oh so important PEC Rosehall Vineyard. Try not to blink for many chardonnay that change straight away but with Rosehall that is far from the case. Twenty minutes in a glass and plus ça change, as they say. Immovably youthful chardonnay, stark and as a contrast, so sown, sworn, authoritative and stone cold of its own accord. There are 2021s from Ontario what will last comfortably in states of fickle freshness for 15-plus years. This could very well be one of them. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted July 2024

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Tradition 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Warm and inviting, textural like silk, some glycerol and running soothingly smooth from start to finish shows a different look and separates itself from other vintages. Kelly Mason’s ability to change it up while still maintaining an always high level is a chardonnay testament to a team that ranks with the hardest working makers in Niagara Peninsula show business. There are clean yeasty notes, like sourdough in the proofing stage and subtle baking spice with texture truly divining the directive for high quality “classico” Niagara chardonnay. Never gives up or in, never too hot or cold, a great vintage in Mason’s estimation, but then again, “anything was better than ’21.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Taylor Emerson and Jonathan McLean – Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Runway 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Gotta be the first chardonnay out of the gates from the 2023 vintage and if this cracker example is any indication of what’s coming then hold on to your senses. Recently bottled and even with an early (September) pick this saw less than 10 months of aging, but the mix of indelible lees and high voltage (8.5 g/L) total acidity put this in scintillant, dare it be said Blanc de Blancs styled territory. So very different to the Runway White (blend) because of its intensity but also warmth at 13.8 alcohol, not quite torridity, but a white peppery scorch nonetheless. Wild and exciting shift from vintner Taylor Emerson and winemaker Jonathan McLean. Will be hard to wait and anticipate what the next level chardonnay turns out to be. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Alex Baines – Hidden Bench

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Unfiltered 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench

Say 10 months in French barrel, a warm vintage to coax out full concentration though “bunch weight and tonnage were actually lower than 2021,” tells winemaker Alex Baines. “More on the average” and yet this Estate level is all that 2022 could be and more, of fruit so silkily rendered, starred gastronomy plated and proffered as if by sous vide and reverse seared white meat, asparagus, salsify and yucca for one of HB’s most sweetly vegetal and succulently situated chardonnays. Gentle spice, firm grasp of the Beamsville Bench, extract accumulated at the peak of the proverbial chart and elastic tannin. All fine, refined and stylish. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Full and wholly substantial chardonnay wth fruit juiciness, acidity and intensity. Never relents, takes a break or falls away. Keeps a straight line and follows the progression to a vanishing point. The perspective here is focused and linear. Top “Villages” example. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at NWACs24, June 2024

Dancing Swallows Chardonnay “Composite Number” Unfiltered 2019, VQA Ontario

Maturing, acetic and yet quite complex aromatics offer more than curious intrigue. Über cool climate, variegate ripenesses in the fruit and the acetone incites the proverbial shower curtain comment. All that said there is promise and even pleasure to be had. Tasted July 2024

Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

My goodness this is special chardonnay, coming as no surprise and if your thoughts and emotions for 2021 Niagara chardonnay need buoying than begin the bob right here. Precise aromas, immediate and echoing, more fruit than frankly necessity should expect as the mother of invention because mineral and saltness demand our utmost attention. Yet the fruit stands firm and even pulpy in the face of the crushed stone infiltrate from a vineyard stop on the grandest of Niagara cru tours. Exemplary to speak on behalf of a vintage that separates wheat from chaff, pinpointed location from just anywhere and adults from the gambling trials of youth. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Kelly Mason and Brooke Husband – Domaine Queylus

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Réserve du Domaine 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Kelly Mason has hit the proverbial nail on the chardonnay head with her focused and balanced work with 2022 fruit to create what will forever exists as a quintessential Réserve du Domaine. The sort that will linger for years and be compared with when subsequent vintages are produced over the next 10-15 years. Remember the 2022 they will say. Ideal posit tug and a correct split between ripe fruit and stony goodness, also considered as mineral wealth to equip the wine with structure and subsequently longevity. All this despite a slight miss on acidity, which really turns out to be a thing of vintage. Brava team Mason. Sometimes there are misses when we taste blind. Tasted July 2024

Oak all over, toasty notes in the orchard fruit aromas, mid-palate texture and no glissade but instead a settling on the palate. A bit heavy though just a year’s time will integrate the cloud. Lacks the right kind of acidity to really make it sing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Maison Roche De Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022, AC Bourgogne

A vieilles vignes at Bourgogne AOC level that proves the ’22 point just how universal these wines should be admired and can be your friend. Bellene’s is luxe, focused and balanced. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Sharp chardonnay from Nicolas Potel’s Maison Roche de Bellene out of 2022, lightly reductive, tightly wound and beaming with energetic light. Got a buzz and a vitality about it, with old vines concentration keeping pace and developing texture as we speak. This has been a good sku in the past but Potel has hit the proverbial varietal nail on the head this time around. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Nadia and Ilya Senchuk – Leaning Post

Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

What was once a true matter of 50-50 barrel to steel raising has morphed and is now another matter. A concrete matter for today’s 50, full of fruit and fuller after its cementing, a posit tug still, even though wood and steel no longer play the push-pull game. More about fruit versus lees, tension so tight the rope never seems to budge, but it sways and slings within inches of itself. A bloody poignant vintage in spite of warmth, contiguous from its wild ferment and winemaking truth. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Matthias Messner – Kellerei Bolzen

Kellerei Bozen Chardonnay Bolzano 2022, Südtirol Alto Adige DOC

Really hot year tells Matthias Messner for a steel only raised chardonnay on lees from vines at 550-600m of elevation. Close to the south of Balzano, “a windy area” with cooling temperatures at nigt. Straight as a marksman’s arrow, cracker sharp and the sort of chardonnay to pierce your heart. Quenching, satisfying and Südtirol perfumed. So drinkable. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Has been three vintages since getting back to tasting this archetypal Südtirol-Alto Adige chardonnay from top quality and quantity cooperative producer Bolzano. Can’t go wrong with the style or the effect, of no oaks given and the most lemony sunshine one could arrive hoping to find. This is a terrific vintage for a chardonnay we could all afford to drink a boatload of. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Boschendal Chardonnay Appellation Series 2021, WO Elgin

“It’s easy to make quality chardonnay,” says cellar master Jacques Viljoen, “but hard to make sellable quality. Also scaleable but Boschendal seems to have accomplished all three with their high level tiered Appellation Series Chardonnay. What could be called a 2021 of dramatic restraint, of tension but never nervous, of grip but no abuse of power. Brilliant chardonnay and Ontario consumers should be happy to know it will become available in the upcoming VINTAGES September Classics. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Lydia Tomek – Ravine Vineyard

Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

All Niagara-on-the-Lake fruit, from three vineyards and with just a wee bit of musqué inclusion to give Ravine’s chardonnay that gentle spirit and floral lift. Just that subtle hint of jasmine flower, oxalic acid lemony scent of purslane and faint anise of chervil. Spends 18 months in a majority of old wood which does develop texture to find this somewhere comfortably between pillowy and elastic tension. You may not always have you’re best stuff but you can still contribute admirably to the team. Though 2021 is not the recent vintage to set Niagara chardonnay up for its greatest balance, “you take everything you’re given and make the best of it,” reassures winemaker Lydia Tomek. Which she clearly does to deliver a chardonnay to keep the dream alive and the streak unbroken. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

True to Bench chardonnay sprit and energy, standing upright, demanding to be noticed and in turn we are paying attention. A harvest of demand forces the team to focus and pay extra attention, to do everything possible for greater returns. Picking and sorting strategies finds the best available fruit to create something cool, gelid, succulent and shockingly Chablis like. Should age longer than first anticipated. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Small Lot just has to be the ownver of the lowest of low alcohol number as it pertains to the Beamsville Bench and at 12.6 percent the conversion rate falls under the categorical auspices of magic. This is not a light chardonnay but it is a lithe, elastic and effusive one. Aromatically demure yet soft and almost caressing, without peppery (and sharp apple) bites or jolting in any way. The palate runs a similar course, gracing with soft and round flavours that are easy and stretched. Lovely and amenable 2021 here from Emma Garner and one to savour slowly, in a calm and tranquil setting. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Katie Dickieson – Peller Estates

Peller Estates Private Reserve Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

A factor of chardonnay and also musqué interplanting, unique for Niagara and smartly put to a 50-50 ferment between steel and oak. What follows is 12 months in barrel and mostly no malolactic fermentation though says Katie Dickieson, “some might happen.” Clear, clean, precise, pristine and from an ideal vintage to make this style of direct, ready to rock chardonnay. Beautiful. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Westcott Chardonnay Estate 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment

Wild ferment and malolactic happenstance, “and if it occurs simultaneously,” says winemaker Casey Kulczyk, “it’s fine, I want this.” Barrel fermented, super turbid going in and also desired. Welcome to 2022, a vintage for which its maker forgets and leaves everything behind because adversity and challenges always puts one on their toes. Cold snap in winter, vine damage and a 60-plus percent loss of buds (on chardonnay). Great quality nonetheless, a new or different estate mix to result in a more linear, tight, bright and for Westcott, extreme iteration. Yet this arrives brilliantly, very young, not itinerantly fruity, but sharp and hyper real. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Tawse Chardonnay Quarry Road Vineyard 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

No shock or surprise that Quarry Road ’21 is a mineral bomb, coming away on that rocky side of the 50-50 fruit to stone compendium. Forget everything you’ve heard or read about this arch-cool Vinemount Ridge chardonnay, but also ignore all the noise about unmitigated disaster by vintage. Niagara winemakers should always make quality cool chardonnay these days and Tawse holds more water and responsibility than most. Jessica Otting is ten times equal to the task with a Quarry so precise and focused it may just make a tooth or two feel the mineral pain. A chardonnay chillingly representative of its vineyard yet, rewriting the jazz because of the shall not be named vintage. The naysayers can run away and hide in their holes because history will be kind to these wines, especially when they shine on in tastings ten years forward. No crutch or apology, sorry not sorry. Remember 2011 and 2013. Now forget them and only speak of 2021. Just great chardonnay. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs, VQA Beamsville Bench

Classic, sharp, intense and ideal. A ripper, “and I love that” says Stephen Gash. Dry as the desert in such a plainfully proverbial way. Scintillant extraordinaire. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

For the first time in quite some time the next look at the Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs is bang on one year later and so yes, freshness is the thing. Crisp and crunchy, stylistically so consistent and really set up to act as the dictionary entry for chardonnay as sparkling wine out of Niagara. It’s just so spot on, high in energy and exacting for style, place and estate. Tasted November 2023

Domaine Des Deux Roches Saint Veran Vieilles Vignes 2022, Bourgogne AC

From the estate’s flagship old vines holdings in the village of Saint-Véran on the slopes set below the famous two rock faces (Deux Roches). They happen to be the largest holder of hectarage and as such this is one of six cuvées in the Véran. As crunchy as any in the Bourgogne Mâconnais, or will ever be, with crisp bites and never dissipating tension. Sharp, representative of great value with several Premier Cru coming to mind and a vintage quality to solidify and formalize the overall trenchant intention, consolidation and voice. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Violette Bachelder and Mary Delaney – Bachelder Vineyards

Bachelder Wismer Wingfield Chardonnay 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

By this time Wismer-Wingfield is the standard Bachelder chardonnay, the one of great acumen and knowledge accrued, the most middle of the road of the Toussaint releases. This is said with greatest of compliment because there is no substitute for experience and Thomas has long since figured out how to make this most high level and consistent chardonnay. No lack for all this and more from 2021, of a wine where fruit and wood share equal space but both exist on the same footing. As always the presence of waxy, aerosol and resinous notes that chardonnay for Wismer-Wingfiled always displays. There is something to be said for the same old. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and at i4C July 2024

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

“I fought the grapes…and the grapes almost won,” quips Ilya Senchuk. We should note that the the temps are/were five to six degrees cooler in Grimsby/Senchuk Vineyard and so he and Nadia feel quite strong about their success for cool climate chardonnay out of the adversarial vintage. A “war of attrition” perhaps and some losses but in the end more wins, but you have to buy and taste these wines to find out. Ilya agrees that sometimes “you have to get out of the fruit zone,” and not just with respect to pinot noir. The mineral aptitude and stony goodness of this cracker ’21 Senchuk chardonnay will not be denied. Not to mention at 12.5 percent alcohol we need to look past lean and consider magical conversion rates. See for yourself. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Cloudsley Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Always a mix of Wismer fruit, of Wingfield and Foxcroft, same bat fermentation and same bat channel. Wild ferment that is, followed by 18 months in French wood with one-quarter or so being new barrels. Balance of the old and new, the buttery and the grippy, the soft and the profound. A recurring fruit theme for 2022 with less tension and tightening as compared to say ’19 and ’21. Getable as chardonnay though persistent in its inherent cool climate origins. Still it will attract more and more consumers who hold preconceived notions about the idea of chardonnay. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

John Szabo M.S., Godello and Malivoire’s Shiraz Mottiar

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench

In a state of grace resolve on course to deliver its best at every step of development. In the heart of the matter now, primary yet moving forward with finespun caramel right ahead. So well conceived and made to honour its origins. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Sure there is a full and subtly opulent quality to the Mottiar 2020 but from the beginning there is confidence and balance. Always this way but ’20 is special in that regard, comfortable in its skin and so sure of what it brings to the chardonnay table. Beamsville Bench beauty and bounty, acidity so sweet and developed it feels like it has not yet acted just like this before. A hint of paraffin and beeswax, a lilt and a rise in beats here and there but most of all freshness and that aforementioned surety of conviction. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Blomidon Brut Réserve NV, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Put to bottle in 2019 and so five years on lees ain’t nothing to develop complexities, eccentricities and potential variability. This pour comes out of sound and vision, disgorged in March of 2024, set to be released in the early Fall. Makes great use of 2016 and 2017 fruit, plus a small amount of the frost vintage 2018. Youthful, appropriately Blomidon Peninsula/Annapolis Valley tightly wound and in a way very chardonnay, though not glaringly so. “For us this is the future for non-vintage,” explains Simon Rafuse, “and to save the cooler vintages for Blanc de Blancs.” It’s a reverse engineering kind of approach. Simply put, in cooler vintages you can’t push wines through malolactic and so chardonnay is best purposed for sparkling when acids are high and pH levels are low.” Like 2011, but not 2010 and Rafuse adds that “the problem is you have to wait many years to see the results. But it’s worth it because they are really good.” True that. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Dean Stoyka and J-L Groux – Stratus Vineyards

And there were visits

Stratus Vineyards at Bar Ruffino

Stratus Brut Nature Zero Dosage 2013, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

J-L Groux explains that the main factor for making this kind of sparkling wine is PH, “because the aromatics will be built upon six to seven years of lees aging time.” J-L feels this ’13 is going to be the winner now, and for 20 years. Not far off it would seem because of the “partial disgorgement” method, well within VQA rules and thus you arrive at a toasty smoulder unlike any other sparkling wine. The lees are the thing, in fact they are everything. They prevent the aromas and the wine from oxidizing. Amazing. Last tasted July 2024

Comes across a bit cloudy, at least as compared to the B de B with thanks to the natural, lees left intact style. The citrus component is so pronounced, as is the taut, direct, lean and intense manifold destiny of what is truly a singular Sparkling wine. That being a living, breathing, inhaling and exhaling wine, slowly releasing proteins, acids and realizing its B de B Nature dream. Just amazing what lees can do for sparkling wine. Tasted July 2021

Released side by each with the Stratus Blanc de Blanc 2013 and while vintage and grape are the same, the similarities almost seemingly, ostensibly and allegedly end there. Yes in fact this 100 per cent chardonnay is a child of the most excellent varietal vintage and like the B de B spent six years on the lees. Comparisons cast aside it is the very fact that because much of the lees were transferred to bottle by a minimalist’s disgorging that this cloudy bubble with a Canadian artist’s series set of labels can’t help but elicit another memory. The Lilies of Monet and their clouds represent neither the horizon, nor the top or the bottom. Nor does a bottle of this Zéro Dosage Brut. The elements of water, air, sky and earth become intertwined in a composition without perspective, or so it goes in this hazy, opaque and dry as the desert sparkling wine. So many layers of lemon can be peeled, juiced and scraped away. If a Stratus wine could be a a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma then here it is. The texture here is palpable and the intrigue factor surely high, so it should be imagined that longevity will be this wine’s calling card. It’s more austere than the Blanc de Blanc but I think in fact it will. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted November 2020

Stratus Chardonnay Reserve 2002, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Harvested between October 4th and 6th which for J-L Groux was early, akin to harvesting in early September in the Stratus world of today. Barrel fermented for 350 days in a mix of new, second and third fill French wood. Low(ish) acid and high pH vintage from the vineyard purchased just two years prior. The team went about immediately reducing yields from eight to two tonnes per hectare, “direct to concentration,” says J-L, who at the time partnered with Peter Gamble to make this rare iteration labeled as a Reserve wine. They selected barrels for this premium chardonnay and truth can feel counterintuitive because many years after having tasted the (Non-Reserve) 2002 it is this ultra varietal bottle that shows impossible freshness. Persistent in reserve, laden with grapefruit and as much texture as wood is want to impart. Well, actually a bit less than expected but as a chardonnay expression with the same fruit the special barrels chosen have come about with such a different result. Less preserved lemon, wax, late bitters and oxidation. Therefore sharper and fruitier while in the end likely just what Peter and Jean-Laurent were looking for. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Stratus Vineyards Retrospective at Bar Ruffino

Stratus Chardonnay 2009, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Late pick (November 10th), high acid, smoky and smouldering chardonnay, connecting it to a course of action for those that are made today. A precursor and one that the winemakers surely look back at and draw upon for current preoccupations. Especially Dean Stoyka who stirred some lees and learned how to get his chardonnay through malo during his Niagara College educational days. Looking at 2009 helps to consider the sparkling wine program because the specs and style of this wine are clearly inspirational towards that end. Last tasted July 2024

Comes off like a white blend, aka Stratus White but this is the outright, unchaste vintage talking. Winemaker J-L Groux crafted three wines with viticulturist Paul Hobbs. Here they split the project 50/50 with Hobbs including wild yeast fermentation and whole bunch pressing and J-L adding short skin contact, controlled yeasts and no whole bunch pressing. From extreme low yields, this one puts on a show after only 10 months in barrel. High on aroma, brazen in texture, ambient in flavour bites. Very Niagara if inexactly Chardonnay. Tasted March 2014

Stratus Chardonnay Bottled with Lees 2015, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Medium acid and low pH year, picked across September which is early (and necessary because acids would have waned) but what matters most are the lees kept in bottle. To develop aromas over time and ward off oxidation. So unlike the 2009 tasted side by each, here from a “winter damage year” tells Dean Stoyka. Small crop, somewhere between 88 and 91 tonnes (the number changes form time to time), average heat and precipitation. Serious chardonnay concentration, fruit persistent, in great shape and a better wine today than it showed as seven years ago. Last tasted July 2024

The 2014 vintage was essentially the first year when barrel lees would be left in the bottle and my how conservative this ’15 really was as compared to an evolution that culminates (currently) with the full on lees filled chardonnay vintage. Quite the opulent vintage mixed with aromatics still morphing, developing lees, brash and blushing by 40 per cent new oak, complimented by generous acidity. Showing with controlled drama and though the yields were low (only 88 tonnes) there is something quite special about this emotionally charged, vivid, scarce and remarkable chardonnay. Last tasted July 2021

Stratus Amphora Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

“Slightly, maybe three times more oxidative than a barrel,” explains Dean Stoyka as it pertains to amphorae. Kind of surprising but then again there needs to be a good reason for choosing these tight-grained Tava Amphora baked at higher temperatures, especially as compared to Georgian Qvevri. More oxidation means more lees and more lees means kept freshness plus the ability for aromas to develop into complexities over time. As for a a second kick at the chardonnay in amphora can by Stratus well then assessment out of expectation also triples and the learning curve realized by Stoyka becomes three times the fun. Where is the reference point? Who cares because the nurturing of this fruit and palate caress conspire to create a feeling, as if you have known this wine your whole life. A matter of great positivity and understanding. Dios mio, man. Longevity should never be questioned and reasons why never argued. Keep at it, keep on keeping on. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2024

Hillebrand Trius Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2000, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Nutty, flor oxidative and 24 years of age. From a very cool year and J-L Groux’s roots as a Niagara winemaker. Reluctantly fresh and honestly a good showing at this ripe old age easily into a time when the ideas and thoughts of mortality and finality can’t help but creep in. Though the wine would not shine to the dispassionate it does cause a stir of interest to a group of writers, influencers and sommeliers, all happy to drink one glass. Kudos to the Stratus team for offering up this cool piece of chardonnay history. Tasted July 2024

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

This may be just the first stages of Dobbin’s tenure making high end wines from the Twenty Mile Bench but auspicious does not begin to describe the level of sophistication marking these beginnings. The erudite oenological consulting team of Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble have taken chardonnay into territory they are quite familiar with but always keep in mind that top terroir, vineyard conditioning and uncompromising preparation are what collectively set this up for success. This 2019 is from a cool climate vintage out of a cool climate place and recent history tells us that these are chardonnay that live good, long and healthy varietal lives. Luxe yet still crunchy, high quality wood used generously if judiciously and in the end this kind of rocks the world. In a chardonnay way. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2024

The Tower at Dobbin Estate

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Blend 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

From a cool vintage, long one though and cabernets cropped at the lowest of the low – less than one tonne per acre. ”A drinkable style,” says Peter Gamble and “I like the ‘19s from Niagara for that reason.” Pretty much a 50-50 final blend, almost too easy if by design and immensely popular with those who know, but also those who do not necessarily know the how or why. This is not a Caymus drinker’s red but it will inform and in turn impress they who should do better than their muscle memory habits of consuming over ripened, elevated alcohol, sugary reds. The ’19 is not particularly structured as a cabernet squared though the modelo drinking window is a good one. Last tasted July 2024

First release for the new, high-end estate found on the Twenty Mile Bench with this stylish, Right Bank in make-up cabernet franc (inclusive of 15 percent merlot) having been sourced from a mix of the Homefront along with Creek Shores and Four Mile Creek. Oenologists Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble have consulted from the beginning and this is what would be considered a “Peninsula” wine because the fruit is drawn from three very different micro-climates. Sure seems like single site iterations are the future once each have been trialled and understood but for now the mix makes for a treat of layering and integration. Chic, full, substantial and generously oaky in the classic Sperling-Gamble style for full-bodied but never over the top Bordeaux reds for Niagara. The wood lends sweetness, fine chocolate ganache and a smoothness that is a hallmark of their wines. They did not go for structured broke in this inaugural bottle but the result is dreamy and leaves an impression, without seemingly trying to be impressive. No doubt a Napa Valley feel here which is always a compliment as it pertains to Niagara reds. The only qualm is the lack of franc-ness but that feels somewhat intentional. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted April 2024

Tasting at Dobbin Estate

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Riesling 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Classic and balanced, concentration meeting at the intersection where a righteous mix of sugars and acidities form layers from. Vineyard blocks are what define the intention and i turn the results of this riesling. Nothing overt, neither by salinity or sapidity, though their are hints, shadows and subtleties indicated by both. And so the requiem for this riesling’s success lies in its ability to please without speaking loud or acting with any sort of impunity or demand. This is why people who know nothing about riesling will gravitate to enjoying this as a glass of a special white wine. And those who get it will be hard pressed to label or pigeon-hole it as Ontario. The inclusion of some botrytized grapes has something to do with this. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Riesling 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A much warmer vintage for all of Niagara and with riesling the difference between 2019 and 2020 is truly the proverbial might and day. Almost an about face style with the ripest and juiciest ripe fruit, lower sugar and (less botrytis) but truth be told there is more richness and flesh in 2020. Intensity by implosion and higher sugar number (15-16 g/L) as compared top 10.5 fro 2019. Unrelenting flavours and a profile more Germanic than that more chiseled and muscular ’19. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Ed Madronich holding court at Flat Rock Cellars

Flat Rock Cellars

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Foundation Series 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

The separation between Foundation and Gravity is essentially barrel selection with the winemaking being the same. So specific to this place, rusty and busy tart fruit, a mix of plum and cranberry, always curious, always complete. Gently and fluidly volatile, crunchy at its peaks and low rumbles in the valleys. A 5,000 case production (on average) as compared to 1,000 of Gravity. Never a question that this is and represents Flat Rock. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

No questioning the ripeness on all fronts, to the edge and precariously so with maturity and also a glycerol meets acetic set of circumstances. As such there is a raw cookie dough note, also potpourri and natural medicinals. A very specific tang carries the flavours and the sensation of style is duly noted. Gets chalky and the acidity takes over on the backside of this distinguishable pinot noir. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Gravity 2020, Twenty Mile Bench VQA

Warm vintage and about as high-toned that Gravity as pinot noir will ever be. A tight and to be frank also austere iteration that still remains and persists in this state of the unforgiven. If a Gravity has ever needed for time than this 2020 is certainly up for debate. Muscular, concentrated, broad shouldered, full of texture and buzz in its extremities. There is plenty of substance and so when the wine settles in it will do what intention asked it to do. Last tasted July 2024

Jury’s still out on the season’s relationship between pinot noir, Niagara and especially the tattooed effect painted by the Escarpment’s benches. Gravity ’20 is still showing some early earthy, fermentative aromatic volatility by way of bread dough, tar, strawberry red fruit and coniferous-evergreen energy. Some stem inclusion surely, an early pick on acidity in a warm year, strength in maceration and equally pressed so that the Ontario greens also come through on the flexed rope of tannins. Like hastily hand-stretched pizza dough popping holes, or pulling liquorice too fast and causing cracks. Gravity is meant to fall softly downwards, gracefully and gently. The sour accents speak another language, a bit unfamiliar and yet the track record of this wine deserves respect and time. Jury will be hung and a new one will come back in two years for next assessment. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2022

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Gravity 2010, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Really warm vintage, one of those in that time that ripened fruit to the max and so pinot noir went where it so boldly wished to go. One of those substantial examples that has surprisingly lasted deeper into its tenure than assessment of that vintage would have predicted. Good showing today and some duck prosciutto would work really well alongside. Last tasted July 2024

Reels in Twenty Mile Bench fruit in a warm vintage as well if not better than any of its peers. Founder Ed Madronich is clearly slope and soil obsessed and this Pinot Noir is a study in topography and geology. To paraphrase Madronich, it’s ”more Pommard than Volnay, in a deeper and more masculine way than the Estate bottling.” Pinot barrels most representative of the Gravity style were chosen for the final blend, in this case noted by woodsy black cherry and spiced root vegetable. “Get a little savagery in your life.” Tasted twice, April and December 2013

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Foundation 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Middle road traveled, taken and projected for chardonnay definitive of a 25-year study by Flat Rock makers to arrive at this time. Lovely, juicy, prolific and in its Flat Rock way also a quintessential Twenty Mile Bench example of chardonnay What more needs to be said? Last tasted July 2024

Foundation Series: Our Classics redefines the Flat Rock entry to market and gateway for their chardonnay. If you’ve been tasting these wines for a decade or more you’ll recognize these aromas from a 2021 that resonates of the house style. Inviting, somewhere between vanilla crème frâiche and lemon crème brûlée, soft and demure. Creamy palate texture, a swirl of butterscotch ripple curd and easy drinking all the way through. Many will find this soft but it’s best considered as a comfort food kind of chardonnay. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted October 2023

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay The Rusty Shed 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

If the Foundation delivers a quintessential Flat Rock chardonnay experience than The Rusty Shed takes it further. More substantial fruit and aromatic muskiness if less immediate joy and juiciness. No shock because RS is a wine that can and will age with this being one of those vintages that fit the bill. Reminds of 2011 or 2013, or maybe a combination of the two with the modern world of love and varietal development taking chardonnay from FR to new heights. Will hit the zone sometime later this year or early next. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay The Rusty Shed 2013, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A more than appropriate vintage to pour side by each with 2021 because they share that Flat Rock Rusty Shed affinity of chardonnay needing some time to open up before delivering the juicy, gelid and fleshy character they will almost always eventually do. The ’21 will get to this place and few Niagara or Bench chards can go light years ahead into such a place of beauty. Just knew 2013 would get there and what a joy to be here with it. Last tasted July 2024

It’s as if this label had bided all this time to be the benefactor of 2013 fruit. This Rusty Shed, this 20 miler with the track record to age, a wine that sheds baby fat over a 10 year mineral through echelon stratum, in ways few other peninsula to bench chardonnay can do. This Jay Johnston handled surfer of a wine, buoyant and balanced, centred and able to withstand turbulence, oscillation and tidal sway. Here with sumptuous and spiralled fruit gaged in lode intervals and a tartness held in lope and line by a membrane of extract and tannin. Best ever. Showing well, repeatedly and to forecasted repute. Impressing critics and consumers alike. Bravo. Drink 2016-2025. Tasted June 2016

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling Nadja’s Vineyard 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A savoury, mineral and waxy Nadja as riesling, citrus as high and spritzed with energy as it will ever be. Not a vintage of concentration but rather one that is structured and so bloody specific to the vineyard higher up upon the estate’s step of the Niagara Escarpment. Flat Rock is perhaps the only estate with this level of elevation change, as much as a 10 story building from the this top vineyard to the (pinot noir) bottom. A place of air flow, equidistant to the lake and to the top of the Escarpment. Crisp, crunchy, tart and high level intensity, even for Najda. Need to wait a few years to see what next steps it will take. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling Nadja’s Vineyard 2006, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Tough vintage but are they not the ones that find the magic of aging to deliver a wine like this? Phenolic and mineral as the saltiest of Nadja rieslings, ultra aromatic and a bit yeasty but the vintage had much to do with this. The rest is soil and location, up on the Twenty Mile bench on a second step up towards the crest of the Niagara Escarpment. Crunchy in every way, citrus as always but accentuated here (as it will repeat 15 years forward with 2021) and as Nadja, so very recognizable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Chey Ryan Crawford’s Fried Zucchini Blossoms

Le Clos Jordanne

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Villages 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

A few more red fleshed drops of fruit after only three months further in bottle. Fine impression gained from these Jordan Bench blocks acceding a seamless layering and all is right in this Villages world. Last tasted July 2024

Off the top a more structured pinot noir vintage for Le Clos Jordanne and the aromatics are not shy to announce their swaggered arrival. Bigger bones and flesh hanging tightly, tannins very much apart of the mix, holding firm, lightly chalky in constitution and a notable wine meant for aging, surely be design. Very different to the 2019 and 2020 LCJ pinots which is both curious and effective. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted April 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Claystone Terrace 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

This is a first kiss with and assessment of Claystone Terrace aboard the Twenty Mile Bench which Thomas Bachelder sets the record straight for how it is a contiguous tract connected with the terroir of the Jordan Bench. What it shares with Le Grand Clos Vineyard is a west to east gradation that moves from the structured to the blowsy. In other words every block acts differently but also incrementally and when their individual barrels are assembled they are done so to make the best and most balanced wine with nuts, bits, bolts and pieces drawn out of each gradation. From 2021 the softer aspects shine on because austerity and tension just don’t hold court as strong as they might in some cooler and also much warmer vintages. More middle road (for Claystone specifically) and the beneficiaries of such a pinot noir are all of us. Still another year will soften the last of the tannins and gripping tension. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Le Grand Clos 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

As with Claystone Terrace the Grand Clos Vineyard blocks running from west to east move through this fruit gradation from structured and austere through to soft and amenable. For 2021 the middle ground is duly noted with a signature and arch classic Jordan/Twenty Mile Bench pinot noir that sings in youthful life as early as it ever has. The team (Thomas Bachelder, Kerri Crawford and Phillip Brown) have coaxed out the sweetest natural fruit. While it flows with ease it’s also equipped to slow down, reflect, and then re-emerge a few years thereafter, post pause and not atypical varietal dumb phase. Th3 2021 is found to be chic, suave and stylish as ever, fruit in a dark red cherry state and acidity meeting texture for mouthfeel of a most finessed kind. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted July 2024

Chey Ryan Crawford’s Salmon Sack

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Villages 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Something about the Goldilocks vintage for chardonnay brings the three LCJ wines closer together. Villages may lack the complexities of Claystone Terrace and Le Grand Clos but its juiciness, open aromas, flavours and texture are all there. When you consider price there is no debate in how much value this offers and the gentle spice masala on all parts of the palate are really special. The attack of CT and le roi cru block LGC are there, albeit here less grippy and weighty, but Villages gives all that you want and need. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Kerri Crawford – Le Clos Jordanne

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Claystone Terrace 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

The Claystone Terrace attacks direct into vision, up the olfactory and drilling into the cerebral cortex, no holds barred, nor does it wait to express anything it needs to say. Like a blast of sunlight straight out of the west on a late July afternoon, not blinding but warm and inviting, though not what would be considered subtle. This speaks from the vineyard in a more substantial way than Villages and also Le Grand Clos, if not quite at the level of aromatic and textural complexity of the highest tier, signature chardonnay. CT scans your senses and takes hold of them. It is anything but tripping the light but it is quite fantastic. Captain Claystone fantastic. The bomb for 2021 as a Le Clos Jordanne chardonnay. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Le Grand Clos 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Feels like a bit more easterly block fruit from barrels chosen for the 2021 Le Grand Clos because there is a softness (though far from blowsiness) about the mouthfeel and mellow flavours. The Claystone exhibits more drama and while complexities are on par it is this LCJ that should actually be consumed sooner rather than later. Thinking however that more folks would love and appreciate this style from this vintage. Last tasted July 2024.

A bit sweet it needs saying straight away from wood aging that mixes with fruit quite ripe though not seductively so. Surely cool climate and well judged but the barrels do lend some oily texture and weight to this otherwise fine chardonnay. Solid mid-weight example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Westcott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve 2022, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Like Block 76, also from the home farm of 26 acres on the Vinemount Ridge. Warmer parameters for richer and well-developed chardonnay cut through with fine chiseling because of the limestone bedrock beneath the slim soils for what can be best described as Westcott salinity. Reverberations and consequences are a mix of quantifiable component and marbling, also with thanks to the mix of 95 and 96 clones. Reserve always comes from the same rows of two blocks and while it may have once been a barrel selection, over time it has come to abide by the strictest regimen of only those rows. A retro Reserve if you will with a return to fully celebrating specific fruit no matter the vintage or circumstances. What separates this chardonnay is more than concentration, but rather the underlying salinity that is more pronounced that that of the Block 76. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Estate 2016, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Amazing how age can be a graceful and beautiful thing and the ideal truly applies to Westcott’s Estate chardonnay. The ’16 was made by then winemaker Arthur Harder and subsequently blended and bottled by Casey Kulzyck. Now in a pretty good place, fine and refined, Still some linger of primary fruit. Last tasted July 2024

This is one of the first near-premium chardonnays to hit the market from 2016 and so a decision needs to be quickly made if the style is more vintage or house in origin. There really isn’t any estate precedence for this superabundance of fruit on the “normale,” like Christmas coming early or Niagara peaches appearing in June. The ripeness goes beyond freestone fruit and into the tropical realms occupied by mango and pineapple. There is no denying the nectarous and appetizing nature so I’d like to think it’s really a seasonal somewhereness that drives the druthers. Drink this young and with some poached seafood. It will satisfy the pairing. Drink 2017-2019. Tasted July 2017

Chef Tim Mackiddie’s Scallops, Cavatelli and Chardonnay – At Butlers’ Grant, Wetscott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Old Vines refers to the 1989 planting of Clone 76 on a 5.08 acre block on the northwest side of the 43 acre Vineland Bench property. The long and rectangular chardonnay block culminates on the southeastern side at Butlers’ Workshops and is paramount for a site that was a grower’s vineyard up until the Westcotts purchased the land that immediately abuts the Bruce Trail. So many c’s are apt descriptors for this chardonnay; copacetic, coalescing, conditioned and commendable. From a recalcitrant vintage in some ways, adversarial and short of crop but the chosen fruit seemed eager to please and access feels easy. Concentration is impressive and immediate gratification is on offer. Extract and tannin take this to another level and so the probabilities are positive for a chardonnay you may choose to age. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butler’s Grant Carolyn’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

From the block closest to the house planted to the 667 clone. Youth still the understatement, vintage accessibility be recognized and quickly cast aside. A mix of flintiness and delicacy when rich and fat could have been this pinot noir’s everything. Not in this case. Last tasted July 2024

From riesling to chardonnay and now pinot noir, all planted in 1988 under the name of Butler’s Grant and here the pinot is dedicated to Westcott proprietor Carolyn Hurst. A clone first iteration, or at least one owning as much as site itself because vinous, resinous and intense is what oozes from this Twenty Mile Bench wine. Hard to find this much varietal expression so reminiscent of some Beaune counterparts because austerity, intensity and implosive behaviour are all compounded with tough love, seriousness and respect. The vintage gives and is in turn captured for a wine that will command your undivided attention, in part because some suspected whole bunch fermentation just seemed like recssecity is the mother of invention. Need is the primary driving force behind Carolyn’s strong-willed pinot noir. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butler’s Grant Carolyn’s Block 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

The 2020 Carolyn’s Block is something joyous but get a scent of (a now well-aged) 2019 and the aromatic world changes dramatically. A vintage advantage and clearly a pinot noir in need of time to set it aromas straight. From eccentricity to complexity, wildly spiced and now entrancing. An affinity with Cuesta the the south and Hanck to the north yet perfectly idiosyncratic in between. Some sweet seduction, ripe acidity and organza texture. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2019, Twenty Mile Bench

Funny aroma to begin, paint or something metallic but also tomato purée. Verdant as well, chalky and chewy, ready to rock and roll. Something amiss or at least distracting but there is this great palate presence and structural appeal. Silkiness and wood define the finish. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted blind at NWAC2021, October 2021

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Elevated concentration, of course, but an immediate burst of energy and immediacy really command attention. Spice and potpourri, full and up front, unabashed, without hesitation, standing vertical to be noticed. Clone is 828 planted in 1988 on the southwest corner of the Vineland Bench property. Explicit varietal assemblage curving to the substantial to decide the outcome for pinot noir designed to please. The gratification is underscored by a mineral underlay to say that tine is on side. Two more great years and two to for more with positive secondary characteristics. Last tasted July 2024

Dark fruit, ambitious and tannic. Bold and structured pinot noir from a hot summer clime. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024.

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

The second harvest of this block foreshadows what will be concluded as a dramatic difference between the ’20 and this ’19 residing in the arena of the vivid. A level of chalkiness and therefore structure now explain why tasting this early would have been confusing to deduce how clone and place will conspire for great pronouncement. This Twenty Mile (or Vineland) Bench geology directs the show and old vines concentration does the rest. Who knows, maybe Carolyn’s Block will act like this 28 years from now. For now Butlers’ Grant Old Vines is the one in command. Last tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Brilliant Traditional Method Blanc De Blancs, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Winemaker Casey Kulczyk explains how chardonnay is always picked at a minimum 19 brix which not only influences but extends flavours and also exaggerates texture. Plenty of acidity mind you though the complex profile wins over all else. Sees 30 months on lees and makes every iota of their use to accentuate and autolyze for increased extensibility, plasticity and the aforementioned flavour. Yes this shows smoother texture and strengthened chains of mousse. Westcott’s sparkling processes are at the head of the game. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Brilliant Traditional Method Blanc De Noirs, VQA Vinemount Ridge

As with the Blanc de Blancs the pick is done at a minimum 19 brix and lees aging time is 30 months. The mix of chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier shows off ample freshness and sharp acidity, leading to boundless energy tethered with creamy flavours. Red fruit prominent but the truth lies in mellifluous textures ruling the day. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Good to go!

godello

Flight #1 at the 2024 School of Cool
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WineAlign

100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

Jul1

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The year 2024 marks a historic one for Chianti Classico’s producers, their land and consortium. It was 100 years ago that Italy’s first Consorzio was formed and today it so effectively conducts affairs on behalf of and at the behest of the most important red wine of Italy. The ambasciatore Godello was a guest to the May 14th Gallo Nero celebrations and later in the month returned for another week of interviews. This on the heels of a most recent month-long journey spent in Tuscany, first taking in the Chianti Classico Collection, then followed by two full weeks of meeting with dozens of producers. The current preoccupation is with Chianti Classico’s next generation, whose daughters, sons, nieces and nephews are returning to work their farms alongside parents and grandparents at nearly forty estates. And counting. The region’s progeny and their view to the future ushers in an extant situation of meaning and promise. Feel free to read between the lines and envision what stories will next be revealed.

Chianti Classico gives unconditionally and without seemingly ever needing to try we receive its gifts, all in and forever. There can never be enough days spent transversing its verdant hills, foraging in teeming forests, walking up and down rows through 10,000 hectares of vineyards or breaking bread with its people. It is simply never enough. Four decades of the Gallo Nero have occupied the writer’s mind, heart and eyes from a territory unlike any other and in the last eight years the association has bordered on obsession. Visits in the last six months have seen the author driving to all points taking in its 11 UGAs, talking, tasting and better getting to know acquaintances and friends. All in the name of “love for the territory, passion for quality, social cohesion, vision and foresight.”

Godello at Villa Calcinaia

The promise of 2024 comes on the heels of a most challenging 2023 vintage which saw more spikes in extreme but also unpredictable climate events, but also 30 days of (May-June) constant rain that encouraged the nasty downy mildew issue called Perenospera. The serious pathogenic foliar disease reveals itself in the form of leaf spots, blights, and distortions, forcing the hands of growers to effect a strong, concerted and persistent attempt at spraying copper and sulphur to combat its deadly activity. This next vintage will fare much better, climate be willing, yet it remains to be seen just how resilient Chianti Classico vines will be.

Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico Cento Anni Gala, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

In the third week of May the three Capponi siblings, Tessa, Sebastiano and Niccolò hosted a grand celebration of Villa Calcinaia’s 500th anniversary. At Brancaia in Radda it was proprietor Barbara Widmer who poured 20 vintages of her Toscana IGT Ilatraia. A meaningful visit with Martino Manetti at Montevertine helped to recalibrate and reorganize thoughts about sangiovese and Chianti Classico. Back in December of 2023 the writer spent a few days with Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi as he packed up to depart after four decades at Olena and blended his final wines at the San Donato in Poggio estate. Working with him briefly on VinSanto del Chianti Classico 2011 will never be forgotten. De Marchi is a Chianti Classico treasure and history will always regard him as a winemaker, thinker and great man who was integral to the appellations’ transition from the 20th into the 21st century. As will many other women and men of the territory who begin the conversion processes of passing their torches to the next generation. These last five years have seen the first stages of a paradigm shift now in full swing and these next five will see to Italy’s most fascinating transformation. The modern era of a next golden age is upon Chianti Classico and if you are not already paying attention, it’s high time to get on board.

Related – Chianti Classico goes to eleven

Cento Anni

On May 14th, 2024 the Chianti Classico Consortium celebrated its first century together with the city of Florence, one hundred years ago after its founding in Radda in Chianti. The first consortium established its offices in the historic Uguccioni Palace in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria and the 2024 occasion resumed its position in these headquarters located within the historic city centre. Godello was proud, privileged, overjoyed and content to have been invited to participate in such a sincere and consummately orchestrated occasion.

President Giovanni Manetti speaks at the Chianti Classico Consorzio Cento Anni, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The day’s events began with the conference “Back to the Future: Sustainability and regional identity – The future of quality winegrowing,” moderated by Luciano Ferraro – Corriere della Sera in the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. First introductions by Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori. Local speakers were Francesco Lollobrigida – Minister for Agricultural Minister, Food Sovereignty and Forestry; Eugenio Giani – President of the Regione Toscana; Dario Nardella – Mayor of Florence. Esteemed guests from other significant denominations were invited to offer up their congratulations; Matteo Ascheri – President of the Consorzio Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Italy; Gilberto lareias – President of Port and Douro Wines Institute, Portugal; Morgen McLaughlin – Executive Director of Willamette Valley Wineries Association and Wine Foundation, Oregon USA; Thiébault Huber – President of Confédération des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne, France; Maxime Toubart e David Chatillon – Co-presidents of Comité Champagne, France.

Chianti Classico Cento Anni, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

What followed was a dissertation and then a round-table discussion covering the intrinsic link between wine and land, the cultural landscape and sustainability. Speaking on Chianti Classico’s cultural landscape was Professor Paola Eugenia Falini – Head of science for the UNESCO application and her talk titled “The estate-villa structure in Chianti Classico.” Ferraro led the round-table with Giovanni Manetti, Piero Antinori, Tessa Capponi-Borawska, Giangiacomo Gallarati Scotti Bonaldi, David Gleave MW, Monica Larner, Prof. Andrea Lucchi and Alessandro Masnaghetti.

Chianti Classico Back to the Future

Nine other events took place over the course of three days in May; Five meetings with starred Florentine chefs, their plates paired with Chianti Classico wines, a musical pairing orchestrated by Leonardo Romanelli and conducted by Filippo Bartolotta. Of greater significance to the future of the Black Rooster were gatherings moderated of Falstaff Magazine’s Simon Staffler with the next generation of producers under 40 who are being passed the baton and given the keys to the territory’s future. The most exciting Cento Anni event took place in the evening of May 14th where 500 guests gathered at the Teatro della Pergola di Firenze for a gala dinner to win all gala dinners. Nothing in Italy recently experienced has compared to the night’s mix of spectacular and emotion.

Cento Anni at Prowein 2024

As with previous anteprime collections the vintages poured were varied and so it was the mix of 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2019 wines that collectively offered up an indication of what is happening in today’s Chianti Classico. Many of the ’22s were poured from campione, hit or miss tank samples often challenging to assess and so even at the Annata level the ’21s are considered to be the current vintage. Though lower in quantity it is the 2021s that are of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers chose to keep their wines behind to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle. In this report the lion’s share of wines tasted happened over the course of one week ahead of, during and across two further weeks following the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Some additional notes are from visits made in December 0f 2023 that were not included in Godello’s recap report covering the second half of that calendar year. More tastings from May 2024 are also included in the following 403 reviews.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

The breakdown is as follows: Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 (49); Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 (80); Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 (19); Chianti Classico DOCG Older Vintages (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020 (34); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019 (12); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG older vintages (18); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 (7); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020 (35); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 (20); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG older vintages (12); VinSanto del Chianti Classico DOCG (2); IGTs (87). Thank you to everyone for reading.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Dusty and sweetly herbal sangiovese with the warmth of vintage and softness endearing through 10 percent cabernet sauvignon plus (5) merlot. A chewy texture, easy and getable, of no particular pinpointing, yet proper for its broad swath of distinction. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Errico, Marta and Gabriele Buondonno

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

A finished wine already blended though drawn from a sample that will be bottled in December. A bigger production than normal and so a sangiovese of volume in more than one dimension. There was some rain in the summer to make the difference but not much, neither occurring too early or too late to compromise quality. Solo sangiovese in vitro projecting forward towards really important structure noted through some chalky tannins. Spiced and spicy notes, depth of fruit and also lifted acidty, all adding up to a Chianti Classico packed with more stuffing than many. This is as good as anything Gabriele has, but also now in collaboration with son Errico Buondonno have made to date. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

True blue 2022 still working through the motions of getting ready for the world and the journey ahead. Ripe fruit from 2022, like 2017 but with more succulence and generosity. Juxtaposed by an underlay of evergreen and a moment of creosote, but also clove. Concentrated from a well-pressed and extracted sangiovese made just that little bit sapid from five percent canaiolo. Wait a year at the very least. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2022, Castellina

L’Aura is another 2022 that shows a readiness and immediate appeal much sooner than most, with thick and unctuous fruit made fresh and bright by one of the higher points in Castellina. Great spicy accents, salt and pepper seasoning, thick pulpy red fruit and some of the vintage’s sweetest acidity. A terrific early to mid term sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Andrea, Daniela, Sergio and Giulia Zingarelli – Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The line of Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico is now separated from the single estate wines, but says Andrea Zingarelli “these are the wines that show where we were born.” Another hot vintage but perhaps more equilibrium overall than 2021 and it shows. This separates from Famiglia Zingarelli and yet it’s inextricably linked. There is five percent merlot that rounds it out and the fruit comes from all the (and only) Castellina estates. No noise, just the facts and the sounds, smells and tastes of the territory. This may just be the cleanest, naturally sweetest and perfectly drinkable Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico ever produced. It will appeal to any and all. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The latest from Sophie Conte (also tasted from barrel on December 4th, 2023) is her first crowing moment, at least to date and in terms of her young career in making Chianti Classico Annata. De-stemmed and no pressing, fermentation at 24 degrees (celsius), 10-12 days, saturated with nitrogen, taste every day, separated when the skins release no more. Made with three vineyards’ fruit; Vigna del Bosco, Vigna del Strada and Casa, right by the house. “I’m pretty happy (we hit the point) in 2022,” admits Sophie. Brightness and freshness found, the goal achieved and bitterness kept not only at bay, but fully away. An aromatic swirl of pinpointed Castellina intensity that draws from the winds and the slopes to translate soil as best and purposed as any. You can feel the energy waiting and wanting to be released. No lack for structure from Conte’s 2022, young and yet to evolve into the polished solo sangiovese it is destined to become. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Surprisingly forthright and open knit for such a young and impressionable Annata from Fèlsina. Calm and relatively settled so soon after going to bottle. The acidity is both sneaky and essential with tannins so similar in their design and style. A full and complete Berardenga for Castelnuovo in 2022, getable earlier than ever before yet in no rush to mature. As clean and generous as ever from the estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Sample or not this smells just like Tenuta di Arceno. A southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga dry, dusty, sharp red fruit and herbal aromatic swell that increases with air to a glorious vanishing point. What follows is another swell of the same fruit and equally sharp acids that carry on wayward along. As for 2022 well this may seem akin to 2017 but as an Annata so much brighter, cleaner, fresher and frankly better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A finished wine though quite compact and reserved so seemingly caught in that limbo between the idea of campione and set to be ready. Quiet and tight, some leather and cherry but those typical notes don’t say so much. Strong-willed, forcefully tannic and frankly feeling pretty ambitious. Should rightly age long and successfully though the jury is out on where and what the end game will be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico DOCG Il Palei 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Strong willed, boned and still in a state of reserve for a 2022 that not only needs to find the bottle but also further in bottle aging to open up any cracks in the structure. Rich and caky, wood a serious factor at this stage with a structural comport that will see a ’22 follow the sun towards a good long life ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

With Arturo Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Only Ama could pull and gift this much upfront fruit to draw us in as quickly as we do. Richness accrued and balance incarnate, more than juicy acidity and fully encapsulating tannin. If this is what Annata is all about the ceiling is unlimited for San Lorenzo and the more interlocutory and focused single vineyard Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Super ripe of fresh blueberry and sappy at this awkward stage. No doubt about the tenets of depth, breadth and major substance, not to mention ripe, layered and sweet acidity followed by crispy tannins. Long life ahead that should begin to unfold in three years time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Less of a hard nut to crack as far as 2022 barrel samples are concerned because La Montanina’s has found and first turns to upfront fruit. The middle ground is a bit chaotic but then the finishing parts ate about as powerful as they are capable of brining it all together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples. Tasted February 2024

Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Classic lift and high tone of a Ricasoli Annata, more so than those of the recent past. Several layers are here to unfurl, first from classic cherries, followed by Gaiole saveur and notable wood spice. Almost a smoulder but not quite, plenty of freshness and a true sense of 2022. Really well made and appreciated. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

By now this unctuousness and thickened emulsification of the palate’s mouthfeel has become the calling card of 2022 Chianti Classico. Richness, sweet acidity and succulence with this by Riecine arrives as sweetly concurrent as they come. This means tannins as well, good for the gander if not for the long-term cellar. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

You could blind these 2022 Chianti Classico and no matter the UGA they all deliver a thickening of glycerol texture and glide silkily across the palate. There is just a hint of reduction in the Rocca di Castagnoli with moments here and there of Gaiole savour before finishing with a pique of seasoning and spice. Good complexity and fine tannins seal the deal. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Campione: Youthful an traditional sample, Greve classicism defined, dry and balsamic inflected, tannic and far from opening forward. Doors are closed and may not open for another year. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Comfortably reductive and set in its ways but also into skin because the quality of skins in this higher quantity Annata are in delivery of top freshness and potential. A fine example of vintage and one to set eyes on the future with peppery sweetness of fruit and spice. Crunchy and furthering the notion for how Castello di Querceto has truly cemented into the golden age of its Chianti Classico style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2022, Greve

Campione: Perfectly balanced sample of 2022 sangiovese, Greve and Vicchiomaggio, red fruit captured with as much perfumed ripeness as could be desired while also fulfilling palate needs. This is what should be expected and gifted from a Campione – a window to the drinking window and potential of the wine. No need for wonder or worry – you know you will get the right stuff from Guado Alto ’22. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

A blend of all vineyards, Ruffoli (Greve), Lamole and Radda, 100 percent sangiovese since 2010. Frost in April claimed many buds but the soldiering on resulted in high quality fruit from all three sources to create as fine an Annata, variegated as ever they could layer as Querciabella. Fruit, acid, tannin on perpetual repeat, mille foglia, maximizing natural purity and sweetness. Also as aromatically charged of tri-terroir perfume to lead where and for what a Querciabella attempting to express itself must be. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Lamole

Campione: Full on expression of the Lamole perfume, from violets and iris to the wet green moisture from calcareous hillsides and humid sandy soil elegance. A lovely swirl of fruit so glycerol in nature and that gentle pique of spiciness upon the palate. This is a 2022 that will be glorious because the team and their most focused of micro commitments have really found the vintage beauty out of the UGA. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Full and substantial which is pretty much what we have come to expect from a Lamole (di Lamole) sangiovese and to a degree much higher than any other from that UGA. Perfumes yes but fruit and texture are the base ingredients to make this wine swell forth. Lots of love and deep space in L de L’s 2021 with a sleek Macigno feel throughout. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

High octane aromatics, petrol and plasticine, raw dough and reduction. A train wreck up front and then beautifully glycerin on the palate. Gives off the feeling of a Campione because of the early heat and oxidative sample. Thinking the finished wine will be a great improvement, Stay tuned for another taste somewhere down the line. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2022

Campione: Big, bold and promising Gagliole Annata sample, fortified by Alberese and Pietraforte stony soils, clearly large and impressive. Big tannic freight and profile for the appellation, two years away from settling and five more before the window is fully open. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Though the journey for 2022 was a challenge it was also a vintage combining quantity an quality, then ultimately balance. Tasting from several tanks saw some variability in the samples but technical director Iacopo Morganti’s culm measures and crafty blending helped this sangiovese find its way. The cuvée has finished clean and moderate, certainly lighter than 2020 and 2021 but characterful to a great solo varietal degree. A clarified 2022 that fills the spirit, reminds of the place and provides conspicuous local macchia or balsamico. Treads lightly and delivers that Panzano at Radda’s border to a “T.” Fine wine, nothing big or impressive, but simply IMG sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Pizza by Michael Schmelzer

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2022, Panzano

Bottled in March, classically Montebernardi juicy as F and at the peak of Panzano perfume. Spiced chalky aromatics too, carried forward and that’s the segue in combination to accede a structured feeling for unlimited possibility. The appellative level seems not to matter because this is cracker fresh and pure sangiovese from the thinking grower and winemaker that is Michael Schmelzer. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted again, May 2024

Campione: Just pulled from barrel so not yet blended and therefore not a finished wine. A perfumed, classically so vintage with succulence, crunchy and liquid peppery. Not its most refined vintage, neither vivid nor intense but it will surely show better once it settles in bottle. Truly perfumed and that will only increase as well with time. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangio’ 2022, Panzano

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted again, February 2024

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

All sangiovese with Radda and Castellina fruit, mostly in concrete (though not quite all) and only steel for the rest. Some fruit is or will be coming from Poggiolo Vineyard in Castellina, a property owned by Candians Rob and Darcy Gillespie. Juicy and simply freshness incarnate. Last tasted April 2024

Sleek, suave and chic Annata for Brancaia out of 2022 with layers of red and blue fruit augmented by quality tannins. Early stages of reserve and reduction but there is no questioning the levels of substance. An extension of a change in style that began in 2019 with the move to bright and honest Classico, yet ’22 is clearly bigger, weightier and with increased structure. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Top Radda terroir, high elevation, rolling terrain, excellent exposure and no lack for biodiversity. Adds up to great potential while 2022 is currently rough and tumble. Chewy sangiovese with wood still noted and yet to melt into the whole. Time will be an ally so that the rustic elements soften and parts integrate better. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

At Radda nel Bicchieri with Angela Fronti and Lorenza Rossi

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: “Arancia sanguinella,” says Angela Fronti, that note of blood orange she always finds in her wines. A really dry summer and you find a level crunchiness and dried herbs from a vintage where picking continued consistently every morning through late September and early October. Clean the grapes as you go explains Fronto and in the end she was very happy with both quality and quantity. Crisp and crunchy Annata for Angela Fronti, undisclosed in its gratuity and wound up like Angela Fronti on a 100 foot high rock face. In other words focused, determined and competitive. Not sure this should even be tasted and assessed in any shape or form today. Come back soon. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: Now the is a proper sample. Fresh, clean, energetic and persistent – doubly refreshing. Lift and beauty of sangiovese with that perfectly judged pH and sapidity raised by 10 percent canaiolo. The problem is this is the kind of sample that makes producers want to submit more of them and yet great showings like this from L’Erta di Radda are the few and far between. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Might come in thinking that tasting and assessing a 2022 and Monteraponi would not be a great idea in February of 2024 but this Braganti sangiovese shoots favourably straight out of the gate. A fulsome and handsome Radda as a varietal expression of fruit so ripe and unctuous you might consider drinking a bottle today. Surprising candour for a Monteraponi this early in its life but there it is, open and generous, social and genteel. Structured as well for many years to continue acting this way. Someone and something has surely softened. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra, San Casciano

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

For Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari the hope is to increase to a maximum of 12 hectares and 35,000 bottles. “This is our dimension,” tells Matteo. And drinking others’ wines is key because if you don’t know what you like then you don’t know how to get where you want to go. The 2022 Annata was just bottled six-plus weeks ago, on August 31st and so this potential hinderance is kept in mind. The first vintage for which a portion was aged in the used Stockinger cask and some more stem (whole bunch) usage moved from (normally 20ish) up to 50-60 percent. You can sense the energy and increased power but still there is a transparency and a purity of red fruit that will not be denied. Comparisons are futile but those who seek out this style in cru Barbaresco or Côtes de Nuits Premier Cru will latch on here, likely to never let go. Next level for Fucile and Vaccari. Don’t care how young this wine happens to be – the potential can’t be ignored. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: The tiniest of properties (one hectare) and smallest of productions (2,000 bottles) in San Casciano from Chiettini. A sample but one nose into this 100 percent sangiovese and you know you’ve found something meaningful. A wisdom in the wine born of great terroir and an agronomist’s acumen. The winemaker seems inconsequential or at least respectful to everything else. There is calm demeanour and a presence of freshness, soulful savour and weight without compression. Hard to know what it’s all about, but knowing more will be a next pursuit. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Luiano Chianti Classico 2022, San Casciano

As youthful as it gets for assessing 2022 Chianti Classico and in fact it’s hard to remember a vintage its equal. 2017? Not even remotely exactly. And yet the ’22 from Alessandro Palombo is a thing of San Casciano beauty, aromatically charged of local perfume with as much depth in red fruit as there can be. Clearly verdant as per the UGA’s way while the fruitiness marries happily and walks equally side by side. Merlot does indeed soften and alter the overall expression but why knock deliciousness? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Quite a taut and wound Annata for 2022 with the advantage of elevation next to woods for freshness and crispy preservation. Does well to foil the dried herbs, brushy savour and further aridity provided by austere tannins. Should all come together in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti’s Annata is just about as ready in youth as they come for 2022 and that is not something that can often be said. Duccio Corsini’s work in the river stone strewn fields and modern approach in the winery have been showing recent gains but they keep on coming for sangiovese (and five percent colorino) for immediately gratifying appeal. This will be ready to please in full by the fall of 2024 and with zero reason to doubt. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Blend is 90 percent sangiovese, (5 each) canaiolo and malvasia nera. A 2022 and so a finished wine recently put to bottle but still reductive, reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if hard to access because of extreme youth. Great potential lays ahead no doubt. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

One of the prettier 2022s at this earliest of stages because there is nary a moment of reduction, nor drying notes of any sort to distract. Aromatically open and still secure though no impenetrable fortifications hiding the beauty of fruit or potential of the wine. Traditional sangiovese plus two complimentary varieties for a Monsanto take of the estate’s specific corner of San Donato in Poggio so proximate to Poggibonsi. A full and substantial Annata with a high ceiling as an example set for the UGA and also the territory. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Le Filigare Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Stewed and reductive, nearly impossible to assess. Rich an chalky fruit, loads of acidity and tannin. So very sangiovese with a sapid strike by canaiolo and intensity (also for colour) by colorino. Return after two years in bottle. Tasted February 2024

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

No other Annata is field blend relatable as this from Quercia al Poggio with at least four additional varieties filling out the 80 percent minimum of sangiovese. A largest portion of (12 percent) ciliegiolo and bits of canaiolo, malvasia near and colorino add up to quite a fantastical mix that truly compliment, season, spice, elevate and lift this Annata. A truly fine ’22, rich enough but so complex and quite frankly just has to be the top this far for Vittorio Rossi and oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2024

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Large production from Vagliagli, wood dominant in resinous and medicinal aromas. Lacks some clarity because the winemaking clouds the source and the wine turns toasted and pruned towards the end. Drink 2024. Tasted February 2024

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Southern Castelnuovo Berardenga within the western Vagliagli wing savvy and seductive character, big on fruit though more restrained out of 2022 than before. Deep of inflections reddening to black though again there is a level of admirable restraint. Quite tannic however and so consistent with previous vintages there is a need to exercise some patience. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

CCC2024 at Stazione Leopolda

Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

The only Cecchi Chianti Classico produced as a négociant with some other Castellina grapes purchased for this Storia di Famiglia. The family wine, most distributed, easy to drink, just sangiovese and one that must be “a mirror to the vision,” inists Andrea Cecchi, which it clearly is in the most professional way. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Primecolle Villa Cerna 2021, Castellina

Primecolle, the first hill that you see coming in to Villa Cerna with a 360 degree panorama. The expression is not the same as that of Storia di Famiglia but still freshness and Castellina savour that comes from the local argilla soil. More terroir involved, a balsamico and identity that’s even a bit rustic, austere and stringent. Crunchy sangiovese however, with a more trenchant identity and one to really sink your teeth into. Drink 2024-20267. Tasted May 2024

With Enrico, Monica and Cosimo at Villa Pomona

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Pomona comes beauty and also love, of sangiovese (with just two splashes of colorino because it’s there) and who would not intuit that Monica Raspi has become one of this territory’s great instinctual makers of Chianti Classico wines. Rich and understated, unctuous, restrained and refined. Precisely Raspi, Pomona and this drift of a vineyard space in southern Castellina. Something about this Annata is just perfect. Last tasted February 2024

Monica Raspi’s acumen and comfort level have acceded the exceptional because she is passionate about making top echelon sangiovese as much as any winemaker, self-taught or not in Chianti Classico. The 2021 includes just five percent colorino, took 10 days to ferment and remained on its skins for somewhere between three and four weeks. This is a significant number, more prevalent in the region than it was just a few years ago and when managed right will transform Chianti Classico into sangiovese of the ethereal. A substantial, silken and seductive ’21 here from Pomona with its mix of sweet acidity and Castellina liqueur. The tannins are liquid Alberese chalky from a linear wine moving upwards and forwards in stride. This has the length and the balsamico specific to Pomona. A top body of Annata work from Raspi and just the sort of style to pass on to the next generation; Cosimo and Costanza. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

More richness and density than what we’re used to from a Lornano Annata, especially from one made with 100 percent sangiovese. Immediate warmth aromatically speaking and without pause to palate, nor as breaks in structure. A sensation of roasted nightshade vegetables and toasted meaty char. Would be a confusing wine poured in a blind tasting with some varietal examples from the southern hemisphere. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Chianti Classico DOCG Fonterutoli 2021, Castellina

Always traditional with a dried herbal, dusty and brushy component, but truth is the refinement in concrete really silkens and smooths out Annata for an enticing and getable drink now style. Challenging but conversely successful vintage because fruit stands up vertically with the gift from an outstretched sangiovese arm of immediate gratification. Top quality for the usually healthy production Classico for here, now and all to enjoy. Will show at its best a year from now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

For Giacomo the Classico is a “traditional blend and vinification.” Elevated and lifted aromatics from Castellina for Annata, aromatically charged, lifted, phenolic and allied to the palate with well ripened fruit. Sees time in Botti (Tuscan from near Ruffina) and Slavonian wood. Not so much a matter of volatility as about freshness, but a verdant stripe does run thorough the perfume’s middle. Cool, minty savoury, sapid and salty with a feeling of the endemic ethereal. Great curiosity and controlled intensity for Nardi’s 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted twice, February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Belcanto 2021, Castellina

A beautiful song indeed and so a Chianti Classico appropriately named delivers a thing of vintage beauty. Proficiently perfumed, spices piquing on the palate and strategically structured to create a wholly reasoned and seasoned sangiovese. The “other” varieties, whatever they may be and comprising 10 percent do right and well by this fine 2021. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico Casanuova Di Nittardi DOCG “Vigna Doghessa” 2021, Castellina

Campione: Single vineyard or cru example and a sample with the uncanny aromas resembling anise or black liquorice. No missing that as distinct as it gets and this despite the reductive nature of the wine. Needs several years to unwind. Not the finest tank or barrel sample drawn but there is some idea where this is gong. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo and colorino from the warm vintage down in quantity due to the April frosts, a year-plus spent in tonneaux followed by six months in bottle before release. That quantity was two-thirds of a normal production and concentration is surely above the norm in this 2021. Great acidity, highest level of the stuff and the fruit is ever-bearing ripe on the nose while tannins are overtly grippy and the wine needs another year in bottle to truly show its stuff. That said this will surely be the finest Annata from San Fabiano Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. February 2023 and February 2024

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Castellina vineyards primarily west of the village in a gully shaped like a half-pipe amphitheatre, an amazing Chianti Classico microclimate that gives a special purpose to Tenute Squarcialupi’s sangiovese. Add in the next generation ideas of Cosimo Bojola and the torch passing is in transition. This is the classic, clean and traditional Annata that carries the stamp of Tommaso Bojola but in 2021 the connection with son Cosimo’s winemaking wisdom is closer than ever before. Tenute Squarcialupi 2021 Annata stands up linear, vertical and to be counted. It should not be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Spices mark the aromatics, pique the senses, draw in the olfactory and take the stage. A force upon the palate, more spice circling through mouthfeel and some black cherry bitters clasp the finish. Traditional and serviceable to vintage. Last tasted February 2024

A reminder that the Ruspoli were a high aristocratic family from Rome though originally from Florence. The estate is co-owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and managed by Giulio Ruspoli since 1989. The 2021 Annata Classico is in fine shape, still chalky of tannins in the midst of its resolution and while it drinks well now (with some air), there are surely two to three years left for ongoing pleasure. Can’t see the fruit dissipating until late in 2026. Tasted January 2024

There are many, not all mind you but a great number of 2021 Chianti Classico in delivery of this silken, glycerol and so very modern character. That and a firm grip with high level acidity captured. A big wine this time from Lilliano, stylish, chic and strutting. Fruit set and connectivity are well aggregated though this won’t be one to age indefinitely. Drink in the near term. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cosimo and Tomasso Bojola – Tenuta Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

“L’Alta” Annata for Squarcialupi is this amphora indiction of indication that is simply the brainchild of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola. Connected in a most familial way to the other Classico but texture and mouthfeel are altered, transformed and transmogrified in the most religious way. The piety is born of sangiovese passion, to see through an ulterior if respectfully concurrent lens and the result is something emphatically restrained. Brilliance of red fruit purity with an underlying earthiness and brightness that supports the textural movements. The palate is aroused and the senses are piqued. Impossible to look or taste away. Last tasted February 2024

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Tommaso Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Indelibly stamped Carpineta style while so very fresh for 2021, truly bright of great breaths of Castelnuovo Berardenga air. Aged in tonneaux after cement fermentation and to say this was judged with fine precision would be paying close attention to Gioia Crest’s acumen and always consistent deft touch. Spot on for 2021 in so many respects. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wow the energy from 2021 Carpineta Fontalpino is off the charts, ergo there is this wide open sensation from Castelnuovo Berardenga that will not be denied. Fruit swells and impresses with its gingered-crimson beauty and the advances of egress by structural demand. While too youthful and awkward for all parts to hook up they will, in time, for all the right reasons and with zero regret. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big production of quality across the board, of fruit layered in a thousand ways, all working together for the most solid and qualitative expression of 100 percent sangiovese. Proper, correct and professional. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi – Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: High-toned, lifted, Alberese directed, sauvage of aromatics on display. A nosing of volatile compounds which are often part of the sample experience and one not wholly indicative of what the settled and cleaned-up finished wine will be. Losi’s sangiovese are exceptional for Castelnuovo Berardenga and this gives little insight into what they can be. Tasted February 2024

Nicely settling in 2021 Annata from Arceno, compressing and compacting as it plays upon the palate, though underneath both acids and tannins continue to work their magic. These recent sangiovese (with 15 percent softening merlot) have found their rightful place on the Castelnuovo Beradenga spectrum. They are as clean, modern and generous as they come. Last tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A vintage for which merlot at 15 per cent does wonders to install calm and roundness into San Gusmé sangiovese of dusty, drifty and instigative tannin. There is a swirl of red to purple berry liqueur in this high glycerol content of an Annata to take Castelnuovo Berardenga into another stylistic and one not often reached. Modernized, renovated and refurbished. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The traditional estate blend, with canaiolo, colorino and ciliegiolo to compliment sangiovese. Two to three weeks of maceration, at the longer end from 2021 and for Gaiole this is just so Monti relatable with just about a 10 percent accent by Vagliagli within Castelnuovo Berardenga. Fine acidity for this Classico that hints at though stays quite clear of balsamico. Certified organic by Delineat, a private agro-forestry network now recognized by higher powers. The discipline includes solar work, carbon neutral footprint and lower levels of copper usage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2021, Gaiole

Bertinga’s is expressly Gaiole, verdant of its greens and clearly an expression off of rocky soils. You sense the land in the freshness and clarity of the sangiovese. Truly crispy and crunchy, mineral and tannin streaking simultaneously in parallel lines and length unrelenting for as long as the palate would wish to keep tasting the wine. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2021, Gaiole

Only sangiovese and about as obvious as a Gaiole UGA produced example as could ever be. The mix of dried herbals and forest brush, über savoury elements and drying tannins all add up to the tight and taut sort of Annata Classico so many know well. This must be cellared for a year our two before flesh and fruit pulpiness can be coaxed out of the structured shell. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casa Al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Closed and tart, tannins very much in the way and an awkwardness at this early stage. A must return no sooner than one year forward. Indicative of the perils of showing cask samples instead of finished wines. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Real Monti in Chianti fixture within the Gaiole UGA with 2021 measuring 95 percent sangiovese, (4%) malvasia nera and (1) colorino. Noticeably reductive, intensity of focus and a Monti verdant quality captured to express terroir and also nature. Sifted softness owning the palate but also piques of spice and endemic character. Clearly a step up in quality and complexity for this truly historical estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

While the wines are really intense with extreme concentration there is some current difficulty to see them as pleasing. They remain a bit closed, especially on the nose but the potential for aging is great. Though it had been that way for some there were not great frost problems, Not just aromatic intensity but spice and attack on the palate, This strikes as something a bit difficult to drink at this time but the structure is surely impressive. This is Annata that would be Gran Selezione for at the very minimum another 150 estates. Last tasted February 2024

Extreme youth for a Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Annata and while this is a barrel sample truth is Luca Martini di Cigala’s offers up more fodder for assessment than many. This will be a most important vintage for two reasons. The first is quality and the second a matter of education, a view to master interpreter taking water (of Gaiole) and transforming it into wine. Not just Gaiole but a little peninsula between the arms of Vagiagli and Castelnuovo Berardenga on a promontory specific to San Giusto. Fine lines, angles and waves continually sweeping make this a most impressive Annata and one to savour for the next 15 years. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The work of Bruno Mazzoni whose maternal grandfather was producing wine here in Gaiole in the 1970s. Mazzoni started tarted in 2006 wth a rebuilding of the cellar, first produced Chianti Classico in 2012, but waited a few years to begin selling the wines. His 2021 is a new and very youthful vintage made by winemaker Maurizio Longi for a Chianti Classico that shows off the true character and nature of Gaiole sangiovese. Tension and yet a transparency because it’s a bit lighter (than say 2019 or 2016) but the potential for aging here is great. Crunchy and crisp, a wine you can grip between the teeth and bite down, then finishing with piques of energy and spice. This is a fine wine of purpose. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2021, Gaiole

Today Tenuta Perano has a distinct advantage and that is elevation. Ten years ago that would not have been said but 550m is no longer considered a cold altitude and so critics and consumers alike should no longer dismiss this place. At Perano the sangiovese matures on both ripeness fronts and does so at a markedly reduced crop per plant. Results are more than simply a matter and meter of concentration. Lamberto Frescobaldi notes how the Chianti Classico from this part of Gaiole are those of “severity and specificity, and it can be tasted in the wines.” It comes from agriculture and can’t be missed. That is if the winemaking is expressed with humility. The verdancy and freshness by elevation are Gaiole and they foil the substantial elements, namely fruit and tannin. All of this is raised to the highest degree in the Annata 2021. “Especially when the plantings are on cooler sites but you really have to be careful, to push the harvest later.” The conclusions are captured acidity and a lovely expression on the nose. “You may not like sangiovese,” concludes Frescobaldi, “but you will always be intrigued by it.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted December 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino of a deep Chianti Classico hue that Marco Ricasoli explains “is fixed by the Alberese. It’s the calcium in the limestone that really helps this process.” So different than sangiovese coming from Macigno (as a general rule) yet here the colour is full and opaque. Fresh vintage, substantial fruit, quantity high, all things a winemaker wants from Chianti Classico. Purity of aromas, linear of style, stony moments from start to finish. Just beginning to open up and really quite salty. Will surely see this last through the decade in a nearly primary state. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Surprising grip and structure here from Rocca di Montegrossi’s 2021 Annata, well not exactly shocking but this is a vintage wine quite far from readying towards release. Tannins are fine chained, grained, unbreakable and of a saltiness really connecting the mineral dots of this wine. Some canaiolo and colorino bring added seasoning and so sapidity is a thing. Crunchy for Gaiole and less herbaceous than most. Should begin to open in 18 months or so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2021, Greve

Oxidative and a touch cooked in spite of acidity running high. Ample if decent fruit quality though it will travel quickly to where it needs to go. Drink as soon as possible. Tasted February 2024

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Few (if any?) Chianti Classico sangiovese are augmented by the five percent mix of canaiolo and the rare canina nera, the latter of which has not been held with the greatest of reputation. Well, not since its popularity in the Middle Ages. Oft considered “a poor quality black grape that gives a terrible red wine with a dry and light flavour,” nevertheless here finding a way to elicit a positive effect. Winemaker Tim Manning has found the apex of excellence where fruit and acidity with that fineness of reduced sweet balsamic all meet and create a fine Chianti Classico 2021. Fine work no doubt. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2021, Greve

The three vineyards refer to Terreno’s Homefront Greve, across the ridge’s rift at Solano (also in Greve) and finally Montefioralle. This mix of three soils which includes Monte Morello, Pietraforte and Alberese makes for one of those Chianti Classico so well-rounded and thrice fortified. The palate senses three layers of stone bled sangiovese inter-connected yet here the air breezes through each and lifts it all together. Brava Sofia. You’ve found and created an ideal 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Torraccia Di Presura Chianti Classico DOCG Il Tarocco 2021, Greve

Big fruitful sangiovese from Torraccia di Presura, rich and suave, clean as a wet sponge wiping chalk off a blackboard which feels apropos because this is quite opaque and pitchy Classico. Ever so smouldering and shadowy swarthiness is ideal to break up the textural silkiness and remind us that sangiovese from 2021 and Greve is want to keep us on our tasting toes. This has much to give and give it will for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

The vintage is surely part of the equation but it’s almost impossible to believe that Lamole has come to this exquisite place. Perfumes as always present but tannins so very fine not just because of the sandstone but due to the maturity of the vines and the maker. Last tasted February 2024

Pure macigno (sandstone) terroir on terraces fully surrounded by woods and what is most essential in Filetta is the perfume that just has to come from Lamole. From 2021 a most proficient and promising one, an effortless exhale and a seamless transition to mimicry upon the palate. Well structured, so subtly chalky and a succulence meeting exuberance that is as much vintage as it is place. Freshness meeting concentration at the highest level. A complete vintage, needing not be compared to any other. We’ll think in these kinds of terms seven to 10 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Pastrolo 2021, Lamole

The newest (along with San Leolino) of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, from Lamole and a vineyard with unique geology, that being Macigno di Marne, a.k.a marine sandstone. Youthful and the oak flavours still act as a flannel blanket over the fruit but insists Giovanni Manetti, “it remains a question of time.” Second vintage of this label and destined to be a Gran Selezione when time, commissioned grants and the realization of a plan all come together in collective fruition. Average planting was back in the late 1970s with newer plantations going in. There were some mixed varieties, including canaiolo, trebbiano, malvasia and colorino. Meanwhile this is sangiovese, grippy, firm, austere and as they say, molto profumato. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2021, Lamole

Aged only in concrete, “The sangiovese just to show the Lamole terroir,” tells Susanna. “The vineyards at the top do this best.” Which means this deserves to be on the label, no matter the appellative level. No appropriation here, just heritage. The perfume is the crux and heart of this matter. Acidity too, running through like a fast moving stream over pebbles, all of which are felt across the palate. Just ideal freshness, “the beauty of the simplicity,” adds Susanna. So pure. Last tasted February 2024

From the highest vineyard between 600 and 630m for a varietal sangiovese that separates itself from Olinto because that label holds 20 percent merlot, though 2021 will be the last vintage. From what Susann Grassi calls the “crispy” vintage” which translates as freshness incarnate and a crunchiness to the seriously spot on pure red fruit. This is so precise and the Lamole perfume exudes out of every pore. Only see concrete and at Annata level for Lamole that is the exact and proper thing to do. Brilliant. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Jurji Fiore e Figlia

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Puntodavista 2021, Lamole

All of Jurji Fiore’s cru wines are vinified in the same way, that being 18 months in Burgundian barriques, 30 percent new. Vines are 50-60 years old so surely not 100 percent sangiovese near to Grospoli. A field blend from a vineyard that Jurji has been renting for 30 years. His next gen daughter Sara smells chiodo di garofano which is, but is not clove, either way its a spice from a dried flower seed that scents out from this Annata. The palate is also wild and leaping with a moment of swarthiness yet is quite perfectly clean for top shelf, fresh and exciting sangiovese. As fine an Annata as there can be and so perfectly expressive of modern Lamole’s potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Nonloso 2021, Lamole

The only cru that’s for sure 100 percent sangiovese because it comes from 20 year-old vines and is owned by the same farmer as Puntodavista in the Grospoli area. Lamole range, 18 months in three sizes of Bourgogne barrels, 30 percent new. The darkest and most intense because of recent clones playing a prominent role as compared to the others, also because those are field blends and representative of the traditional ways of the blending past. Same wood and timing but everything is elevated here, strung up inside a casing of acidity and an austerity of tannins. A sangiovese that needs time, to settle, for subsequent vintages to grow up, mature and join the balance that both Porcacciamiseria and Puntodavista already show. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Podere Castellinuzza – Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

Upwards elevation even for Lamole, here between 550 and 600m on two exposures, one to the east and one to the north. In this sense we are looking at the cooler meeting higher sector and so expect a different, more evergreen type of savour to exaggerate the Lamole perfume in a wholly other way. Freshness incarnate, no wood, only cement aging for 20 months and a true authenticity about the expression. Really pure, if you appreciate the way. Classic, naked Lamole Classico. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With La Famiglia Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano, Greve

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

For Verrazzano a complicated and in the end balanced vintage but who could have forecasted the restrained power and elegance. A 100 percent sangiovese vintage and one of somewhat shortened vindication to capture the grace and especially acidity of the vintage. A bit of maceration that hints at carbonic but no fizzy pulse. Almost a spicy sensation on the palate but really a matter of total energy. Bravo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Chianti Classico 2021 is an example of that rare occasion when savoury, or what so many like to refer to as balsamico richness defines sangiovese. In this case an Annata of layered red citrus fruit pulled from a plethora of estate Greve-Montefioralle sources, including several vineyards trained to Alberello. A heightened aromatic example for the vintage, balanced and delicate. Low quantity and highest of quality. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Altolà 2021, Montefioralle

Altolà, high elevation but from another UGA over there (that being across the valley in Montefioralle), but also a definition for the phrase “stop right there, at attention.” Another Villages wine but the paradox here is how the vineyard was in Panzano and after the UGA was created it fell under the auspices of Montefioralle. Clay soil with Pietraforte so very typically Panzano, darker of colour, fleshy, but with a fire touch. Closer to Nonloso than any of the other Lamole wines but here you have an old vineyard with other red varieties in the field mix. This is an incredible mix of the two, fleshy and rich yet lifted and elevated of incredibly sweet acids. Wow for a first vintage and so one can only imagine what’s to come. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Maurizio Brogioni Winery Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Just a healthy splash of early ripening merlot softens and sweetens the Montefioralle sangiovese for a clean, technically sound and in its finest moments, also soulful Chianti Classico. Plenty of barrel involved, creating a resinous and soya sauced effect but fruit is bold, strong and able to handle the wood. Works out in the end though caramelization is coming soon. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Montefioralle wines

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Some heat in the ’21 perfumes but also a spice cupboard of exotics sifted into a masala as seasoning for seriously ripe sangiovese fruit. The six plus four percent of canaiolo and colorino are not to be forgotten because like the spices they are stirred and integrated so very well for a fully emulsified Annata. There is some lift and then piques of volatility which add to the warmth and the mystique. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Crispy sangiovese with a soft middle provided by five percent merlot and a fine example of suave 2021 Montefioralle Chianti Classico. Rich and the sort you can sink your teeth into for pairing with proteins of equal steading. ‘Tis a healthy and substantial Annata no matter how you slice, braise or roast it. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Bonafide 2021 and exemplary varietal sangiovese from Panzano’s Cafaggio if one of the fleshier, riper and more glycerol examples. Tart and intense, acidity equal and opposing that fruit to carry forward all the way through. No hole or mid-palate fatigue but all in, all the time. A drink now and soon Annata with swagger and style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2021, Panzano

Small production of the etichetta label called Burrone, a gulch or a gully and the feel of gravity’s pull compresses to see this 100 percent sangiovese lay low in that depression. Not weighty per se but yet set in the lower reaches of brightness and energy. It’s a style for one that will age for a few years still. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Always tasted second to Filetta and though perhaps 10 years ago that may have been the opposite the change has come. Truly salty veins running through the flesh of Panzano, with thanks to the mix of schist, calcaire and the great power of Pietraforte stone. Hold this 2021 for another year. Last tasted February 2024

Like the Filetta di Lamole, the Panzano Classico was also bottled quite recently and is to be released in the Spring of 2024. A full on expression of the Classico for Fontodi from a vintage of everything; substantial fruit, quality and quantity, acidity at peak, generosity and potential. What more does there need to be? About as full and classic as it gets for this stalwart and even just that wee bit of Panzano swarthiness that give these sangiovese their intrinsic and inherent character. Caught with spot on simplicity and poise. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2021, Panzano

A factor of the blue schist makes the call for amphora and if your mind is open and imagination runs loose then believe that the perfumes and flavours are truly connected to the soil. Leathery chew with infiltrate freshness, cake and chalk, tannin and acidity. Spices run amok. Everything captured and preserved, life still laid out long ahead. Just a bit of residual CO2 wards ofd oxidation and allows for lower sulphites usage. Last tasted February 2024

The Chianti Classico that sees amphora, stainless steel and also French wood – but no Slavonian oak. The outlier and if it needs be said, the experimental Annata. That said it has evolved from its IGT (Toscana Centrale) origins and the soils are Pietraforte in this specific micro-climate (a cooler one) from which finer and dustier tannins come away. More about texture in Dino but this is also a bit of a crooner expressive of songs sung from its valley origins. Not a frost zone because it buds later and at harvest time there is the diurnal fluctuation from 30 degrees by day to 10 at night. Great but different acidity from Dino, sweeter but also a balsamic aspect. Unique Classico in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Three terroir collection of Gagliole’s youngest vineyards across their estates, a macro of balancing related to soils built on Alberese, Pietraforte and Galestro. Brings all elements to the table; phenols, dusty savour and a mix of Classico acidities. In this vintage the pick was relatively late (especially in Panzano), as late as October 21 and 22. A management of vineyards leads to a capture of freshness so essential for the Annata level of Chianti Classico. Gagliole gets it in the most croccante way. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Rubiolo is 100 per cent sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

No, 2021 is not readying for the open window. Not yet. The tannins are still chalky and firm, the fruit bright and clean but they still submit to the tight clasp that grips and holds. No lacking for flesh and weight but yes the crisp character is what we are waiting for. Last tasted February 2024

A low (450 quintale or 45,000 kg) production vintage due to April frosts though the quality was very high. Is 2021 the best I ask Iacopo Morganti.“Every time the last one has to be the best one…though 2021 is like 2001. Similar vintage, weather included but there was more production from 2001.” The style is similar, also colour of fruit, elegance, light and ethereal with purposed acidity. “In 2020 the fruit was darker, you feel more oak,” he adds. These ‘21s are typical wines as and for sangiovese. Pure, light and so elegant, bottled on the 21st of September. Hard to find a more amenably front-ended Chianti Classico but the tannins are still somewhat aggressive. Not Riserva in that sense because there is less flesh and body. Still this is a discreetly charming 2021 and a great wine to drink, whenever you feel ready. Aging will be somewhere between six and nine years, give or take and depending on the situation. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

This is truly a preview of the Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2021 because this is the vintage that will be poured at the Chianti Classico Collection held in Florence on February 15th and 16th. When frost struck the area on April 6th and 7th, 2021 Vicky Schmitt-Vitali said “Le Fonti is positioned quite open to the winds so most vineyards fared OK with the frost. Only one small patch protected by trees and bamboo at the bottom of the valley got freeze-burned. The other side of the valley got hit worse so we have to be grateful. Lucarelli (the small village in Radda just below Panzano) is always very cold and our tractor driver lives there and said that his house was minus six the past few nights. All fruit trees burned but his vines had not been out yet so he was lucky.” The result here is a top notch, clean, fresh and harmonious Annata that also happens to be a sangiovese of higher quantity than many out of the vintage. The acids here are just about perfect and the flavours are as enticing as they are diverse. Without a doubt one of the finest Chianti Classico ever made by Guido and Vicky at this appellative level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted January and February 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cosimo and Sebastiano Gericke – Fattoria Rignana, Panzano

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just a small amount of April frost damage happened in the lower part of the vineyards near the Pesa River but the rest of the higher reaches were unscathed and so quantity out of ’21 was fine, while quality ran high. Just stainless and concrete (no wood) for a truly fresh and sustainable Annata. The 15 percent canaiolo adds a dimension of sapidity as balance to what sensations high acid and saline sangiovese are want to deliver. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Beautifully settled sangiovese with that quick sapid kick urged on by five percent canaiolo. A lovely swirl of fresh and clean red fruit, unmistakable glycerol, late arriving acidity and nearly resolved tannin. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Taken from the largest parcel up the hill to the right of the church and no wood involved. Soft and suave, the silkiest Annata imaginable and one that coats the palate with its substantial fruit. Perfume and spice are Raddese, as is acidity, of course. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Intense sangiovese while also drying and tannic with potential to travel far and yet this is certainly not the early beauty of what came from 2020. More so a sangiovese of classicism that must have some time in the bottle before we know what will come. Great length here so there will be a future, that much is guaranteed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Quiet entry, reserved and not exceptionally fruity though a feeling of a place lurks in the shadows. Fresh, bright, clean and high acid. Not particularly fleshy, of lightning red fruit and satisfying. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Pure sangiovese, tiny production, tart, concentrated, verging on syrupy. Intensity of acidity and balsamico, a Radda stylistic magnified and hyperbolized for the world to see. Heart and sangiovese worn on sleeve. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Darker fruit adoration for the vintage owning to Castello di Radda’s south-central location within the UGA and the accumulation is duly noted. Levels of richness and yet this singsong quality that creates waves of fruit in and out of mild structure. Not the grippiest of ‘21s but one to enjoy in the near term. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Classic Colle Bereto Annata, more estate style than Radda which is not a massive shock from the vintage. Clean, crisp and what can be thought upon as crispy, no departure from the UGA in that regard but the precision and clarity is expressly Colle Bereto. Grande, Bernardo Bianchi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Belvedere Campòli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

As far as bottle quantities are concerned this is a tiny production of Classico sangiovese (with five percent) merlot. One that delivers naturally sweet red fruit and true succulence by way of equally delivered acidity yet without tension due ti never demanding tannin. Ever the slightest cherry bitters that dissipate in fade to finish black. What’s left is purity and grace. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Campione: Limited production, 100 percent sangiovese of San Casciano bones, saltiness and energy. Notable as always for the herbs and verdancy but this edges up in volatility before descending into its tannic well. Taut finish and in need of two years to settle. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

With Federica Capaccioli

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Dramatic and vivid Annata from San Casciano with all the wilds of soil, herbs, brushy plants and florals flying from the glass. The air is filled with orchids, violets, Macchia Mediterraneo, sweet sangiovese, Cassis bled cabernet and sapidity raising canaiolo. Top effort for the UGA with ample vintage personality. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2021, San Casciano

A 2021 and so a well and good finished wine not so long ago put to bottle but still reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if still a challenge to access because of extreme youth. Full disbursement of great potential lays ahead. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Clemente VII 2021, San Casciano

Nicely settled and so a wise decision to pour 2022 for the anteprima. Can’t miss the rye bread toast and verdant streak for a Clemente VII of more substance and rallying cry than many. Professional tannins present in the room are tied by acidity as catalyst and bind. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra Vigneti Branca ready for labelling

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2021, San Casciano

A single vineyard, 100 percent whole bunch, 35 days on skins macerated best parcel (of massal selection planted in 1972) sangiovese that is the first true experiment in the young winemaking lives for Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari. Reminds of the Annata in that transparency, purity and focus are all there but imagine more energy, vibrancy, power, grip and intensified, implosive tannins. And yet, and yet the push here is just a bit overarching because a minor note of green austerity does arrive, however fleeting it may be. Nevertheless this is the summit of the current pinnacle of the duo’s CdS success. Next is to see how they will go next level, because when the going gets “maniaci,” the “maniaci” turn pro. Bottled on April 14th, 2023. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Spicy aromatics lead the way for La Sala’s ’21 Annata, nothing unusual about it, consistent with previous vintages and the estate’s search for aromatics. What separates this vintage is the fulsome and glissade quality gracing the palate that presents more fruit in waves, swells and even this oozing kind of feeling that sangiovese can give. San Casciano gets neither more fruity nor modern in Annata than this. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2021, San Casciano

At this stage the ‘21 has now arrived as the finished wine it was intended to be. Hard to believe how much textural glissade, unction and modernity have accumulated in the wines of San Casciano with this by Mori Concetta right at the top of the list. Aromatically charged and perfumed with viscosity of fruit on the palate and liquid spice. Impressive 2021 from the man. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a compliment of other endemic grapes not only aid and abet but work so properly too create cohesion and define this special Classico from San Casciano. The breakdown of 80 percent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, (5 each) pugnitello and colorino is essential and creates a balanced 2021, of less tension than some but also pure without greens or greys mired in the void. A very successful and textured wine of silk and chalkiness for seven to ten years ahead. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Youthful to a great degree and a reductive vintage for the Monsanto Annata, still frozen in time with the classic località aromatics lurking in the shadows of this wholly structural wine. Always the small percentages of canaiolo an colorino bringing the sapidity and also the energy to sangiovese that feels like it’s always been this way. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

High tonality, glycerin, volatility and perilously up there at the edge of the precipice. There is some Brettanomyces in this 2021, nothing that distracts or detracts with any gravity but it does co-exist with the fruit. Chewy mouthful for varietal sangiovese of warmth and intensity that will improve with age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

“So far 2021 is the one that gives me more pleasure, with more complexity and density, even more than 2021.” Now well into his tenure and so Robin Mugnaini has a pretty keen sense of where he’s at with respect to Chianti Classico. Still 20 percent whole bunch and two moths on skins, to be released in a year and a half. Really clean, fruit at the top of this San Donato in Poggio game and purity as verity. These are powdery tannins trying to liquify and integrate but it really is just a kid. Richer than any that have come before and of a structure that will see this travel for a few years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Celebratory vintage fruit swirl arrives first for Il Poggiolino and then to mind comes the character that is intrinsically perceived as San Donato in Poggio. Of red fruit so amplified you’d think citrus was squeezed, calcareous stone was bled and the mixture reduced to a glissade of syrup. Just a quick note of Brett in the 2021, nothing serious or distracting but there it resides on the back palate. Does not mess with the tannins but there is a peppery warmth at the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four and a half decade tenure at Isole e Olena is this 2021, lower in sangiovese and conversely higher in canaiolo, because he knew the blend needed to up its sapidity game. The canaiolo raises pH and works with the other splashes (including syrah but also vials of mystery) to elaborate and elevate sangiovese’s salted-elemental game. De Marchi has hit the vintage nail on the head with a 2021 that shows its cards but refuses to lay them on the table. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist. He is the whooper swan and you pay close attention to the trumpets of fruit and clicks of acidity. Before too long the sounds will cease because there will be no more tannic threats and so both this 2021 and Paolo will move, embrace change and live on. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another matter for San Donato in Poggio and 2021 is this by Podere La Cappella because there is a sleekness and silken quality to the fruit. This is especially felt in the mouthfeel because the wine simply glides and slides across the palate. You can also feel the merlot in 2021, only 10 percent but so ripe and impressionable. Plenty of sweet and supportive acidity, fineness of tannins and just so much pleasure gifted overall. Not as structured as some recent vintages but seductive for the short to mid term. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Davaz Family – Poggio al Sole, San Donato in Poggio

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Poggio al Sole’s is Chianti Classico Annata aged in large format Stockinger Botti comes from a crossroads where San Donato in Poggio, Panzano plus a distinct profile that also draws from Badia a Passignano add up to one of the territory’s most complex sangiovese. An example with 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo that exhibits both salty and sapid elements for something that moves through many machinations. This is not to say that the extroverted PaS lacks precision because it is in fact finessed and pure, but there is so much going on that at moments its feels like energy running wild. Never thee mind because just another year and a half in bottle will see to all parts settling in as one. What Valentino Davaz calls “the business card,” accounting for half of the production in 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2021, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample from 2021 and this Ghirlanda is brighter, fresher and airier than its predecessor, but the bones and the verticality remain. The lift and high tone elevate a sangiovese that misses and wants for nothing, in fact it is so perfectly comfortable in its pliable if ageless skin. Annata worthy of a long life and treated with this level of respect which is incidentally incredible considering the other levels of Chianti Classic made at Bindi Sergardi. In any case this will quickly become brilliant Chianti Classico at the Annata level. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Indelibly stamped by Vagliagli and impressively consistent Annata from the Gnudi-Angelini family. May seem like a large bottle output at 170,000 but that is nothing compared to what it could be (without frost vintages) and in relation to other truly large production (a.k.a. commercial) wines. Nothing of the sort here but simply pure Chianti Classico softened and made colourful by five percent each merlot and colorino. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Complicità Chianti Classico DOCG Assolo 2021, Vagliagli

A small and protective amount of reduction which helps in dramatic ways because this Vagliagli Annata comes at the palate in waves. Fruit for the most part with underlying spice but do not sleep on the sneaky structure of this Assolo by upstart Complicità. Complicated in the ways of complexity and variegation, aromatically stunning and then intricately woven with flavours and palate textures. A discovery of the highest order. Terrific work for sangiovese that feels like sangiovese born of a family and their land. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole, Vagliagli

Dievole Chianti Classico Docg 2021, Vagliagli

Classic croccante sangiovese, rich if also herbal and brushy, a liqueur of red fruit that crunches when bitten. “The soul of Dievole,” says Stefano Capurso, representing the 700 hectares and 10-15 percent of that being vineyards predominated by sangiovese. Fermented in conical concrete (75 hL) and aged in botti only, no tonneaux nor barriques neither. A mix of all the terroirs and a philosophy led by agronomist Lorenzo Bertini that places soils microbes for maximum vineyard health to make sure roots dip deep for stones in touch with water. The land is a geological mix of Monte Morello and Macigno del Chianti (Sandstone), of clay, Alberese and Pietraforte. A combination of everything and the result is one of the most well-rounded Annata to be found anywhere in the territory. Do not hesitate because these sweet tannins and refreshing spice make 2021 ready for action. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Heady perfume so very Vagliagli but also the extras that five percent each colorino and merlot are want to deliver and infiltrate the sangiovese. Crunchy exterior and conversely chewy inside, like liquorice or al dente spaghetti with moderate structure for a few years of life though the best months have already begun. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Noting a change in direction with this juicy and fruit-centric sangiovese with five percent canaiolo that lowers the salty factor that is always a consistent part of Sparviero’s character. Wood not much of a factor to allow the freshness to shine, even out of a warm vintage that in many cases produced very dense wines. Not here and the final clocking is 13.5 percent alcohol. Last tasted May 2024

Canaiolo is used to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Baldoni Villa Rosa 2020, Castellina

Ribaldoni is the name of the river and thus the vineyard laid below and around Villa Rosa. A sangiovese expression of its own, combining the scorrevole of SdF and the croccante of Primecolle. An ideal and balanced mix in what is the most layered and combinative of the three, powerful yet restrained and still in a place that feels a few years away from settling in. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2024

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness. Tasted February 2024

Borratella Chianti Classico DOCG Insuella 2020, Gaiole

Quite upfront fruit, naturally sweet and teeming with red berries, nary a moment of tart or tang, soft and getable. The five percent cabernet sauvignon so very ripe in 2020 may have played a bigger part than its addendum might have suggested but there is no shortage of ease and playfulness in this ready to go Annata. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

The 2020 Perano has arrived, showing know what it was once shy to do. Perano is at its juiciest and gifted height, crunchy of fruit still fresh, poised and in control, now into the best the two three years to express its Gaiole character. Last tasted February 2024

You can always feel the white soil of Tenuta Perano and nowhere more so than from Annata level Chianti Classico. More than sangiovese with 10 percent merlot and (5) cabernet sauvignon for a silky smooth 2020 that wants to share its impression as early as it can. Cool and sappy, easy to understand and professional as they come. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

Notable Brett for Castellinuzza 2020, perhaps a sluggish transition to malolactic being the catalyst to seeing the microbes creep in. Good glycerol in the fruit, rich and calming nature noted for the 95 sangiovese with (3) canaiolo and (2) malvasia nera. Lamole perfume surely captured and so will deliver great appeal to those who can handle a little bit of naturally winking truth in their Chianti Classico. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

From the lower vineyard which means old vines at 550m, inclusive of a majority that are vines dating back to 1965. A mix of sangiovese (90 percent) and canaiolo, though there are some white grapes growing in the vineyard. Aging 50-50 in concrete and 500L French tonneaux for one year. “A very important vintage for us because it was the 400th anniversary of my family,” says Susanna Grassi, but no celebrations due to Covid, just a special bottling as Gran Selezione instead. Bouquet, acidity and though “lower” elevation for Lamole this is sangiovese that more than easily and credibly maintains the origins of Lamole. The bigger divergence here is vine age and so aromatic concentration is heightened, not necessarily freshness and brightness because this feels like a Lamole of more depth and breadth, but let’s be real. As fas as Chianti Classico are concerned this is about as fresh and crispy as it gets. Last tasted February 2024

The adage must always be repeated. The perfume of Lamole is omnipresent, all-pervasive and impossible to separate from the wines themselves. How and why? The answer is difficult to articulate though it is surely a response to the Macigno soils and the climate circulating in the UGA’s amphitheatre. Stand anywhere on the ring road between Casole and Lamole village and you may just feel as though you are in a rainforest. The sandstones mixed with calcareous rock just has to mean mineral transferral onto fruit that in turn scents floral. Not in the classic bouquet of flowers sense but as an example it is Terra di Lamole by Susanna Grassi that makes all this happen. Behold a sangiovese born in the shadow of the Monti del Chianti that shines in its own special way. Terra di Lamole – the land of the UGA, definite, elegant and full of grace. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Casaloste is Panzano but truth is Casaloste is Casaloste. The oenological and passion project work of Giovanni d’Orsi, self made, self-imposed and critically honest if also loving to work with sangiovese. The 10 percent merlot softens the seriousness and trenchant intention of Chianti Classico that as a wine can’t help but express the extensiveness and also the simple truth that is 2020. Bigger, darker and more intrinsic tannic value but truth is truth and Casaloste’s lets in the light. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The uncanny note of chocolate mint is there, unequivocally and especially upon the palate. On the nose as well as a reurn to the first addendum to the serious glycerols that thicken and silken the palate. There are many who will see and crave the seduction while others will feel too much wood. In the end and several years forward neither will matter and the wine will deliver a fine sense of harmony. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Tasted side by each with the 2019 there can be no missing the darker hue, stronger fruit and bolder notes sung by Vecchie Terre di Montefili’s 2020. It’s the vintage and also Panzano that create the unavoidable, each as forceful and imposing as the other. Then agin the trilogy of terroir, weather and place are intrinsic to the sangiovese that arrive each and every season. Big wine, tannins equal to the task and yet evolution will happen faster than 2019. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Cement vat spontaneous fermentation (always done this way, manufactured in Val d’Arno, now 53 years old) for 100 percent sangiovese. Warm summer vintage but for Caparsa at 400-450m still very fresh and well, classic. In a perfect window of opportunity at this moment. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The 2020 Classico is currently on the market while the soon to be bottled ’21 shows as an anteprima though that vintage, as firm and grippy as it may be will entice and delight sooner than most. In fact the 2020 is in nearly the same kind of place and so this tells us that. Monterinaldi’s position in Radda and microclimate produce wines like no other. Their wines move like the turtle, aging low and slow, even if they showed up ready and willing from the start. For Monterinaldi there was no hydric stress and the growing season delivered a consistent and constant five month phenolic development. This was a 35-40 day skin-contract maturation without worrying about extracting green tannins. Only six to seven months of aging in wood and this all adds up to doing things differently than many neighbours and other UGA positioned estates. Last tasted February 2023

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda location. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it can’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a candidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Cortedomina Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Lean, angular and tart, middle palate filled in and softened by 20 percent merlot. Not really tannic per se and easily ready for consumption. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Every year we take the fruit from the three vineyards and say, which one is the most Radda,” says Giacomo Castellani. Not necessarily the best one but the one that is most representative of Radda. The plots are Ginestraia and Olmo marked by stony terroirs of Pietraforte, Macigno and Pietraforte again, highest, mid-slope and in the newest vineyard. Lithe, transparent, ethereal and so floral. A sangiovese in which the sweet natural fruit and also acidity are seamless, together, one in the same. Don’t come here looking for musculature or verticality – that is not this Annata. This is the sangiovese you want to have a second glass and truthfully the bottle will easily disappear. Last tasted May 2024

Raddese from the start, acids singing, zinging and slinging the lightning red fruit to the fore. In youth clearly dusty while a clarity and purity exists in a vacuum where lightness mixed with barrel make for a truly spirited Chianti Classico. Expressly and dutifully Radda sangiovese. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A blend of parcels, many 25-30 years of age. Was a great spring during lockdown, long, sunny, pure through April and then suddenly cool and rainy in May. Then what followed was a variable, unsteady summer. Not the most equilibrium with late September cold and rain. Some difficulty in the selection because of differences in ripening. What does all that adversity, especially as it pertains to Radda add up to? Well, for one thing Roberto Bianchi’s Annata ’21 smells and tastes like Radda, transparent in its openness, cool, herbal and savoury. Truly, expressly, ostensibly and allegedly Radda with sangiovese born and raised in a very specific, high elevation part of Chianti Classico. Definitive, Macigno-stony and age-worthy, if not the fleshiest of them all. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 202o, San Casciano

Big fruit year and a sangiovese with 15 percent merlot (which also happened in 2015 and 2016). Chewy and with some stewed if also drying character that old barriques and the merlot conspired to deliver from a hot and bold vintage. This ’20 is already turning the corner into its next phase. Drink up! Tasted February 2024

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Truly low production for varietal San Donato in Poggio sangiovese and the warmth of 2020 juices the full extraction of blood orange for distinctive Chianti Classico. Pressed for success, macerated to gauge interest with all parts fulsome at the intersect of acid and tannin. Wait six months and drink for two more years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Casa Sola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

The blend is 90 percent sangiovese with (4 each) canaiolo and cabernet sauvignon pus (2) merlot. This mélange of grapes augments sangiovese but you simply can’t take the San Donato in Poggio soil and climate from out of this Annata. Warming and blood orange juiced, as sanguine as they come though neither hearty nor gamey. Crispy sangiovese, tart and high acid, classically styled of tradition and sense of place. San Donato as a UGA is the ace up the sleeve and time is needed to integrate the grapes and structural parts. Great strides taken from this estate. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Clearly and in this regard also distinctly San Donato in Poggio if edging towards the wood spiced and herbal side of the UGA. Yet another blood orange vintage and this is more than merely a trend, here a 2020 well macerated seemingly for two plus weeks or more to come away with this grand textural wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

The Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG (Older Vintages)

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Imagine the baseline and then the ceiling for Chianti Classico. Draw from as much experience as you have and then extrapolate towards the greatest of a vintage’s potential. Then put your nose into Castell’In Villa 2019. Everything rises to the surface and presents itself to be noticed. Note the calm, the precision and finesse, reach out and touch the fruit, recognize the quality and fitness of the acidity and realize potential, compounded in understanding after allowing the purity of the sangiovese to rest upon the palate. As near perfect and essential as it gets for Castell’In Villa without boundaries or limitations. Last tasted February 2024

Leave to Castell’in Villa to do not just the right thing but carry the weight of necessity and hold back Annata to a point where it can be tasted and assessed with the respect it so richly deserves. Though this Castelnuovo Berardenga estate and their historic vineyards are equipped to create magic in the most challenging of vintages, well when a season like 2019 is gifted then the magic turns to the supernatural. Fruit is everything, as it must be and the aspects of climate, fermentation, maturation and all the accruements of seasoning add up to a speciality as no other Chianti Classico will create. This is a very special vintage of Castell’in Villa and one to rival any Riserva or Gran Selezione made in this vintage. Will live in infamy. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted February 2023

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2019, Lamole

Surprisingly tannic, still in a state of structural fortification. Though the predominance of crispy sangiovese is what occupies our thoughts the rocks and stones are by far the strongest players. Last tasted February 2024

The top “tier” Annata in Susanna Fabbri’s range is this main terroir sangiovese, the Terre di Lamole. Lamole at heights, in hyperbole, expressive and of course, so very perfumed. A veritable potpourri of Macigno del Chianti and all the florals imagined, tied up in one red petalled, native herb and mineral bouquet. Grace and understated charm, seamlessness and the sort of structure that build and builds but does so without mortar between the stones. Natural and beautiful. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted March 2022

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Can’t miss the terroir, bosco and micro-climate in the 2019 varietal sangiovese by Vecchie Terre di Montefili. In fact the troika comes to one decision, effect and result for a verdant and silken Annata that speaks to the ease and fullness of the vintage. Just that correct amount of swarthiness and verdancy, an evergreen streak and fineness of acidity that are purely and unequivocally Panzano. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2019, San Casciano

Showing some maturity or rather this sangiovese has matured to a point where the producer is comfortable with its release. May be 2019 and so not a true 2024 anteprima but instead an Annata that has shed its shackles to now be expressive of its San Casciano origins. Balanced in mid weight, tart blood orange juiciness and no lack for shilling a high level of continuing grip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Casanova 2019, Vagliagli

The first of three sangiovese under the auspices of the cru project to feature the sensitivity of the variety to different soil conditions. The sensation gained on the nose from Casanova is something very red, part fruit and part mineral from a Macigno soil. Makes for a gentle, restrained and finessed Classico, “reminding me of the sangiovese made in the 1980s” remembers Stefano Capurso. Blood orange bled from clay, linear as a factor of the stones in the small 2.5 hectare sandy vineyard and easy in terms of concentration. A lovely mid-term ager as a pure cru-focused sangiovese. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Catignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a round hill of 20 hectares facing full south, direction Siena. Calcareous Monte Morello soils with the clays and a windy place. A place of slow maturation where warm days and cold nights alternate. A different expression especially as compared to the Casanova, bigger, broader and yet spicy, of dusty and balsamico acidity. Plenty of lift here and it announces itself with a much noisier voice while the palate is richer and the texture thickens upon the palate. Second vintage of this cru, just about ready to go with only six months or so needed to get there. A bit austere, more so than Casanova and Petrignano. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a vineyard at 350m, fully on Monte Morello formations, dual hillside site with Alberese more to one side and so there are two sides of this wine. Made in the same way as the other two Classico cru, from oak tanks to botti. Of the three cru wines it is Petrignano that holds the most concentration beautifully offset by high ranking and very sweet acidity. It feels like Petrignano is the one to pour for a consumer who wants these layers of complexity and richness. Holding its form quite well. Last tasted February 2024

Petrignano is what Dievole assigns the lede of “a nuova voce del Chianti Classico,” a new voice, especially at the Annata level. The Gran Selezione is from Vigna Sessina and here 2019 is spoken through the younger vines and more precocious if not fully yet understood vineyard of Petrignano. Certainly a fresh and savoury Annata, sour citrus chalky and very primary. Almost nouveau but without the carbonic yet still this is as light and potentially sumptuous as it gets. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted February 2022

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Reductive and conversely yet also complementary traditional, of mature fruit subjected to early oxidation as a protection against hasty advancement and then retreat. Bucciarelli’s pure sangiovese does in fact exist in a vacuum with elevated volatile acidity and a modicum of Brettnomyces though neither push the limits of danger. No in fact this 2018 is Chianti Classico so well structured to defy age and see aging as a necessary condition for what it shall become. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Third vintage for Sophie Conte’s Annata from a wet and challenging year because of clement weather and disease pressure. Cement ferment followed by barriques (already quite old) and also tonneaux, for a year. Leaner yet just about as rigid still, as noted in the 2016. Consistent with 2016, wood on top, toasty, of orange skin, citrus and wet stone that sangiovese will show in certain vintages. Still pretty tannic and again, really curious to taste when you consider how much will have been learned and changed by the time Sophie Conte gets to 2022. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Not the greatest of vintages, especially at harvest and Dario Faccin has known this, but his opinion has changed after a few years of aging. Like 1996 (especially compared to 1997) and namely because the tannins are persistently fresh. A slowed down maturation in September and into October is the reason. Yes it was warm every day and yet cold at night and yes there is some maturity to the fruit but the tannins are so refined. Aging in big botti has only helped these beautifully soft tannic sensations gained on the palate. Acidity kept and balance afforded for a great result. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage of pure sapidity for Carobbio and Panzano, namely because of the late warm vintage conditions mediated by cold nights but mainly due to humidity through mineral accumulation in Galestro soils with shards here and there of Calcari and Pietraforte. Length is Cariobbio length, seemingly never-ending, glorious and rising. Grande Dario and team, this 2018 will live as long as any Annata in the territory. Vintages from the 80s, 90s and also those early in this decade have paved the road for an Annata like 2018 to live a very long life. Tasted May 2023

Then comes along Carobbio with a wine older than almost any other Annata in the collection and yet even from 2018 this sangiovese has yet to hit its stride. Dark fruit of baritone voice and depth puts this in unique territory and it would seem the grapes were mainly picked later, after the two day heat spike at September’s culmination. That said low nighttime temps kept the acidity and so 2018 from Carobbio should age as well as any Riserva and many Gran Selezione from the vintage. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, San Casciano

High level aromatic vintage for La Querce Seconda’s Annata 2018 because of heat accumulated through many days of temperature adding up to this. Major lift and smoulder but also a small percentage of Brettanomyces. A bit distracting to be honest but all is fair in love, war, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Castellina

First real vintage for Sophie Conte, no temperature control and longer (20 day) fermentation than what’s happening today. Cement, followed by barriques (already quite old). Holding court and hanging well though you can feel the wood. The notes are balsamico, liquorice and chewy leathery fruit and the wine is clearly more interesting now than it would have been in its early years. “Pouring you this wine is like showing you a picture of myself in high school. It’s a little bit weird,” says Sophie. Regardless the DNA of sangiovese grown at Tregole is what the picture shows. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2016, Greve

Bruised and oxidized. Tasted February 2024

I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2012, Lamole

“What I remember is a nice harvest in Lamole,” says Susanna Grassi. “A regular vintage.” Aromas are mature and the palate is über fresh, full of energy, revitalizing for sipping and also expressive of the Lamole perfume. Cool, ethereal, ever so slightly salt-inflected and purposefully proper. An expression of culture and the story of old vines in an old vineyard. With a wedge of aged Parmigiana from a special breed of cow there become this exotic mix of acids and cultures that bring it all together. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOC 1969

DOC World: The annunciation of a document eventually to become the DOC; the Chianti wine famous worldwide. Just 356 years after the height of Niccola Capponi’s life and a time when the “Modo di Fare Il Vino Alla Franzese” was the winemaking order of that day in Firenze. Sixty years after Torquato Guarducci and the announcement that quality mattered little for merchants, so long as the bottle said “Chianti.” Piero Capponi was at the lead of changing this and was one of the 33 producers that created the consortium in 1924. Eight years later in 1932 the “Classico” is added, to distinguish the original Chianti delimited by Cosimo de Medici in 1716. Full on mushroom consomée at this stage 55 years after vintage, a porcini broth with drops of citrus and so fully balsamico-forest floor. Smells like chestnuts and yes the 50,000 bottles produced were fermented in chestnut wood vats. Can’t miss the linger of natural sweetness. As for the grapes involved, well that’s open to interpretation, especially considering some various red and white grapes were surely involved, including those from vines put in that had recently arrived from the Florence nursery without labels (due to flooding). Never mind because the acidity and persistence without absolute death is so bloody impressive for a Chianti Classico from 1969. Tasted May 2024

Dinner at Fizzano, Rocca delle Macíe

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Though 2022 is such a fine, amenable and drinkable vintage and 2021 more compacted in so many ways – well when you make a cuvée of all your Castellina estates and choose only the finer grapes – you can make a very proper and promising Riserva. Cool, just a kiss of wood and saltiness, violets and a bit of rounding softness from cabernet sauvignon. Sees 12-14 months in barrel and comes away rich, nurturing and silky smooth. For now and a few years but not much longer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Bottled in November of 2023 and slated for imminent release. Floral yet reserved aromas and unequivocally sangiovese. La Riserva ages in (old) tonneaux of 700L and barriques. More brightness and freshness than the lion’s share of this appellative level in Chianti Classico, crisp and crunchy for Riserva but ultimately a matter of a specific vineyard, planted in 1985, as in the lower part beneath the younger vines. The warmest location where Ginestra blooms earlier and the fruit is saucy, a salsa of sangiovese, “sucoso,” the juices running from rare roast beef. But also blood orange and so a pulpy sensation. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Sample from Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano but my goodness what freshness, spirit and energy from Riserva 2021. Flies from the glass and grabs the senses by the tips and will not let go. Substantial does not begin to describe the feeling or do justice to assessment from what will surely become one of Luca Martini di Cigala’s long-lived and essential Le Baròncole to pour and revel in for a decade or two forward. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Also oxidative, lustre lost and energy waning. Hard to taste and assess late on day two of an Anteprima. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Vineyard at Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Purely from Galestro soil planted in 1968, lower down than the Pietraforte soil with five percent canaiolo field blended in the vineyard. Ages in large cask (only Stockinger) for 16 months followed by three in bottle. Almost seems better to compare this to 2021 Retromarcia (committed to memory) than the other ’22 wines because the vintages at Monte Bernardi are so very different. Though this may have shown like a closed stone (a Schmelzer quote) it still would have been more open then the 2020’s and is surely now come further as a result of this vintage’s progression. Generosity and energy, subtle “sfumatore” aromas and flavours here, there, in nooks and crannies, a Macerazione Piedmontese, 45-50 days post fermentation (60 total) on skins. The epitome of scorrevole. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sa’Etta 2021, Panzano

Purely from Pietraforte (sandstone) soil, higher up than the Galestro and while the vineyard houses five percent canaiolo it is not included in the Sa’etta Riserva. Ages another year in bottle, nine months longer than the (Galestro) Riserva. Is this similar to the sister Riserva? The short answer is yes because the long maceration creates the texture and the palate succulence but the tannins are longer chained, shadowy in their aggression and attention but also so, so refined. Bigger and broader sangiovese as Riserva for 2021 though purity begets fineness and then bequeaths potential. Tasted again, February 2024

Sa’Etta the block, planted in 1968. Sa’Etta ’21, well it would be hard not to be seduced and hypnotized by the beauty of this wine. Precision, clarity, focus, purity, style, grace, elegance – all of the above. Sees two years in 3000L Stockinger (Austrian Botti Grande) and comes away in the most vertical way. A mix of substantiality and weightlessness for sangiovese (with five percent canaiolo) so well adjusted to life as the varietal pillars they are, in this historic vineyard, as they are known. Vines as the Stonehenge of Panzano, in appearance and for the timeless Riserva they deliver. Drink 2025–2035. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

The opposite of light and juicy but looking for elegance through aging 16 months in tonneaux for the sangiovese and barriques for the merlot, on average 50 percent new. Outstanding vintage says Barbara Widmer, as opposed to ’20 merely being “good.“ But they are one in the same in many ways, acidity still thriving, fruit full and substantial, tannins very much in charge. True Riserva style, always and seemingly forever. Last tasted April 2024

Brancaia Riserva takes off where Annata leaves off and seems a bit agitated at this early stage. Even with 20 percent merlot there is an uneasiness about the sangiovese and this may not be the best time to seek the truth. Nevertheless the 2021’s lift, heft and breadth indicate a swirl of substance in fruit that precedes structure, while power knows how much it’s in control. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Riserva 2021 does by Albola what ’22 Annata could not but we know that the comparison is simply unfair. Nothing against the next vintage and a sample or just bottled wine is a tough nut to crack but this, this 2021 is a lovely wine. A Radda speciality from a top vineyard of impressive elevation, slope and exposure. The sangiovese it breathes from the high quality, low quantity vintage is equal parts fruit freshness and sweet savour. Acidity follows suit and then softness remains. Drink soon! Drink 2024-2026. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a pure red cherry fruit and simply structured Albola with early accessibility from a vintage much restricted in such matters. This is clearly designed to be purchased and cracked with haste to seek immediate gratification. Simple and proud. Well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Campione: Perfectly intact place, tact and effect as Riserva from Diego Finnochi at L’Erta di Radda. There is no doubt this sangiovese (and note no canaiolo in the Riserva) has many more acts and scenes to play out, but even at this earliest of early stages it is expressive of the concepts, ideals and plans that nature, the maker and life have in store. Amazing fruit quality, purity and succulence with acidity so Radda and ripe for these vineyards. Preferably speaking the time to drink 2021 would be three years forward but those who find bottles will have a hard time waiting that long. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Campitello 2021, Radda

Campione: Oxidative, soured and overtly tang-inflected example which means the end of a bottle on day two is no way to taste and assess a wine as important as this. Tasted February 2024

With Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020

Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Cerna 2020, Castellina

From the “Primocolle,” the first Villa Rosa hill comprising two vineyards, Solatino and Solare, for Riserva. A mix of luxe and savoury for what is ostensibly terroir relatable Riserva. Much more specific to its two part sense of place then say five years ago and so more focus at this stage of its tenure. Chewy fruit, somewhat leathery, indicative of Primocolle and exaggerated by the warm vintage. Also an herbaceous quality which is also a matter of how the hill translates sangiovese. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Pomona’s Cosimo Selvi, Monica Raspi and Enrico Selvi

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Pomona L’Uomino 2020, Castellina

The artist formerly known as Bandini is not a Riserva of selection but one made from all the grapes picked out of the single Vigna Pomona. The fantasy name “L’Uomini” neither denotes uomo della strada nor uomo d’affari but definitely uomo d’onore and uomo alla mano because this Riserva cares. The vines would have been 23 years of age for this vintage and the resulting wine is spicier than the Annata, but also exhibits an exaggeration of the local balsamico. A kind of resin in there, a natural cure, savoury and like incense some might say. It is the strident and taut character that defines what’s really going on though this shall pass. Yet another example of just how well 2020s communicate and explain their potential. Slow development ahead and in the end will be a vintage held in great esteem. L’Uomini is not a man of the street or just about business. He is friendly and wears a badge of honour. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Ser Lapo 2020, Castellina

Ten percent merlot rounds out the sangiovese but also lends a bolder character, darker of fruit and quicker to the conflagration of alcohol, body and depth. The result is a Riserva that comes at you straight away in delivery of a warmer and more direct to palate vintage-relatable sangiovese. Riserva of a replicate kind, from nose to nose, sip to sip and middle ground structure so very easy to assess. Drink this now or hold for two to three years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

“The Riserva is our diamond, in general,” says Giacomo Nardi, a reference truly applicable to his new vintage that is 2020. Same postcard of Castellina and the best selection of 100 percent sangiovese chosen from four parcels within the 10 hectares of the planted vineyard. Picked in and around the 10th of October, refined in Tuscan wood. A matter of elegant tannin following a local balsamico nose, a particularity of Tuscan wood and Riserva in the Nardi style. Riserva that captures sangiovese at peak no matter how late the harvest might be and that is truly important. Impressive acumen, protective fruit under a shaded canopy and gut instincts at harvest time to be followed for successful results. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

A good example of a sample, rich and my goodness the fruit and tannins are exceptional, full, established and intertwined. The potential here is positive and one could imagine that the next one for Sophie Conte’s 2021 Riserva will be unlimited. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Il Grigio 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is some peppery character especially on the aromatics and all the while the spices plus balsamic elements are consistent with the Annata, both from 2020 and 2021. Fruit is the same sourcing as the Annata but here the substantial quality by selection and extra aging in wood (mainly Botti Grandi, none of it new) means more weight and texture. Glycerol now, a silky-smooth elixir with chic style and more variegate tones. Ambient and plenty of succulence. Good structure from 2020. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arturo Pallanti, Lorenza Sebaste and Marco Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2020, Gaiole

Not atypical for the vintage and as Riserva the Montebuoni 2020 is so representative of all that is suave, stylish, ripe, fresh and free. The selection of fruit, warmth of weather, extra six-plus months of aging and finally appellative conditioning all add up to soft, mature and sweet endowment,. Not many reasons to wait or stack these away on the racks or in diamonds of the cellar. This is a vintage to drink, now, soon and with gratifying expectation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

A beautiful harvest balanced by the last part of the summer with good morning temperatures and a reminder that the winter provided more snow than any season in the last 20-30 years. This is Riserva with a good balance between body and acidity. Luca’s nephew Federico sees both the ’20 Riserva and Percarlo as good as any that have ever come from San Giusto. He is correct when he comments about a balance that will endure. Last tasted February 2024

Barrel sample and the youth of this San Giusto wine is something too behold. A fortification equal to both Siena and Firenze combined. Le Baròncole is serious, stone-faced and impressive. My goodness. Score and full assessment reserved to a much later date. Tasted February 2023

I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Heady and lifted aromas, spicy, intense and certainly a level of sauvage. More substance and layers of fruit than ever before. Tang in ways no other Gaiole sangiovese will show, no matter that 10 percent of softening merlot should round out the wine, especially at Riserva level. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A combination of frescezza and warmth with fruit that yes is fresh but there is both weight and tension to this Riserva. Truly appellative, very wisely and obviously Gaiole, rich and yet vertical, tight and still fleshy so that you have to see this as generous. Top drop for La Montanana between 2015 and 2020. Last tasted December 2023 and February 2024.

My what a lovely Riserva! Fruit succulent and sweet and swirled so effortlessly into equally mouthwatering acidity of pitch perfect tone. Yes there is Gaiole savour and it’s presence is as a seasoning, with chef’s ability, emotion and touch. As for 2020 well this from La Montanina delves into passion and the aforementioned emozione as well and as much as any Riserva in the Classico area. Brava, Oretta Leonini. Grande Gaiole! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

Google the words Perano + Gaiole + Chianti Classico and the first result should very well be “Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva Docg 2020, Gaiole.” Inescapable essence of Perano, essential sector of Gaiole and established representative of Chianti Classico. This is Riserva, a selection from the 90 hectares encompassing much of the estate, creating a sum total so substantial to see this 2020 as spokeswine for this agricultural place. Properly reductive while luxe and forward because in this case selectivity begets seduction, balance and structure. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

Campione: A sample, lifted, high spirited and high elevation Greve raised for sangiovese that’s in a league and class of its own. Richness and a swirl of fruit meeting wood that only acidity can tame. Its does and there is a low level amount of Brettanomyces that distracts. Tannins are a touch brittle as a consequence. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

The first vintage where this is a nice percentage of sangiovese from Casole (out of the Lamole UGA) and yet another warm vintage. Once again it is that fruit that brings the lift. That and the small amount of whole bunch which winemaker Manfred Ing says “I can smell it” and you know something, he’s absolutely right. Crunchy Riserva or as they say, croccantezza, layered like the Annata with the volume turned up, oak usage not so, fruit more perfumed and again that lift which is so important. The delicate nature and delicacy of sangiovese is respected and preserved, the drink-ability factor as high as it has ever been. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Riserva is a thing of beauty and richness from 2020 for a vintage of raw power though with this sangiovese Verrazzano finds both restraint and controlled nervousness. The acidity is just about as well captured, preserved and musical as it gets for both appellation and vintage. An indication of present tense Verrazzano with this nervosity that’s never over the top or in danger of crossing into next level territory. The age worthiness of 2020 is tops. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Showing vibrant and racy today, a really great place for Riserva, any Riserva that is but add in the current day trenchant intention to make fresher and cleaner sangiovese. Crispy if you will, dictated by the Pietraforte of these southeastern hills of Panzano. The 2020 has found its way and the window is now open. Will stay in this ideal drinking state for four to five more years. Last tasted February 2024

Eight months later and Iacopo Morganti exclaims “Molto Buono!” The wood has not fully integrated, nor was that expected but now the aggressive aspects are relenting and the fruit-acid relationship is developing into the extraordinary. Another eight months and this will enter the “zone.” Tasted October 2023

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Al Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

La Riserva is a factor and a child of vintage warmth, nurturing and in Le Fonti’s Panzano hands it comes away finely tuned. A full fruity expression with profound acidity and long chains of sangiovese tannin. The 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot do effect the outcome but in these vineyards they act more Panzano than varietal when used as salt and pepper seasoning. Length is outstanding which speaks to a potential that will mean longer age-ability than many by this Riserva’s peers. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Led by sangiovese with 15 percent cabernet franc, mainly chosen in the vineyard because explains Cosimo Gericke, “over the years I know the vineyard and which ones produce the best sangiovese.” Spends two years in small and also large wood (Slavonian botti) but the barriques are being phased out in these years. Dark fruit, rich, deep and yes it’s a woody example of Riserva but it’s suave, mature, experienced and so very real within this kind of style. Full and substantial wine with really soft and fine tannins. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2020, Radda

When when you take a sip of sangiovese and think aloud “wow, that’s pretty good,” well then something special is in the glass. Riserva Poggio Croce is a veritable glide of sangiovese in tutto, clear, present, clean and giving. A touch of residual sappy oak persists and will need to resolve before this as Riserva feels in touch with Poggio Croce and this unique part of Radda. That said the 2020 is not as big a wine as many in the territory, which is to say something very positive about what the (new) team is after. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Famiglia Cianferoni – Caparsa, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2020, Radda

Doccio a Matteo meaning the “spring” comes from the same vineyards as the Classico but as a selection because the top and bottom sections mature differently. The Riserva may not be the “freshest” but they are the best grapes that can be harvested. Includes three percent of colorino and aged in grandi botti of 1000L size. Calm and subtly fortified, open-knit and generous. Already there and will hold for several years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2020, Radda

The Caparsino always needs more time than both the Caparso and the Doccio a Matteo. Needs hours of air bit Paolo Cianferoni can’t explain why. Tannins surely, tighter chained and layered. These are chewier tannins and the only wine that’s simply not ready to drink. Rustic perhaps but when things stretch and elasticize there will be no shortage of penance served and southwestern Radda on offer. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Riserva comes from the steep 1974 vineyard to the left (north) of the house planted by Roberto Bianchi’s father Giorgio, aged for 30 months in botti and tonneaux. A true single plot that may or may not as well be wink-wink, nudge-nudge Gran Selezione. Cool and ethereal like Annata 2020 with some spice cupboard arriving at the same time as the tannins for that unresolved protein powder feeling. Still it is understood that Val delle Corti’s sangiovese are youthful, fresh, crunchy and tart. Full and corpulent with potential being the thing about this 2020 and what’s required to see it open three years later before beginning to tell its true story. A bit raw or “crudo” at this stage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Sample of sweet fruit, closed and intense with early the operative to sense and feel what’s coming. Tannins locked in tight with our palates bracing for impact. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Richness incarnate, soft, billowy and downy texture but high ranging acidity puts the Gabbiano Riserva in a fine state to impress. The expression is pure richesse, velvet mouthfeel, sleekness and beauty. That acidity is the driver and will keep the flow, but also spirit alive for a few years yet. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Tignanello 2021, San Casciano

Honestly speaking it would be hard not to recognize the hundreds of years of heritage and history in a wine that bears the name of the Marchesi. Not feeling the experience would not be paying attention and not seeing the professionalism would indicate a journalistic lapse in judgement. The 2021 Riserva is sleek (from vineyard) and sturdy by design. Vertical vintage, lower in quantity to a degree and higher in phenolics to a fault. A good one that is. Sangiovese con altre varietà complementari, part endemic and part expatriate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2021

The Villa as Riserva is a great compliment to the Marchesi, not grossly different but less of a linear, structured and age-worthy wine. Swifter and sweeter in the natural fruit sense, swelling with glycerin and pectin invoking flavours. This is the one that imagines so much fruit and generosity in the easiest of drinking ways. Truly getable and as Riserva bridges the gap between Annata and more elevated if also serious appellative examples. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

A few more points of merlot than the Annata, up to 20 percent here and a dusty, also slightly musty Riserva, though acidity is quite fine. Two years in barriques but also the 3000L Grenier botti. More energy than Anaata but also more savour and verdancy. Drink over the next two years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Cortevecchia 2020, San Casciano

As with Le Corti Annata the wines see 27hL casks and colorino is used, “only for the tradition.” The Cortavecchia is intrinsically connected to the Annata, they are brethren and the selection between one and the other happens after fermentation. First comes the spezzaturra and then the division. The river stone soil earthiness is carnale not animale and from 2020 there is more flesh and body then before. This means more settling and grounding but also roundness than what happened in 2018, but also surely what will come from 2021. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: A sample though surely as close to the finished product as it will get for this 100 percent sangiovese. Hard not to note and feel the commodiousness of the vintage, from fruit phenolic in its well developed ripeness, acids fortifying, tannins stronger than ever before. Harder to express the vineyard (Alparco) and more challenging to shine a light but this is Emma and San Donato so be sure to taste the sanguine orange ornateness of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

While there have been several warm vintages over the last five or six for Chianti Classico there are few that deliver this combination of concentration juxtaposed against such a high level of tannic command. The ’20 Riserva is essentially immovable at this early stage and should rightly require 18 further months to shed some of its assigned consignment, to unburden, lighten and be set free. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Somewhere between six and seven thousand bottles are produced of this 100 percent sangiovese, from several vineyards and so the cuvée is indeed a selection. Definite spice cupboard of aromatics, coriander and ground red pepper, red fruit powder and then more attention paid because the wood is strong early on. Will be needing some time to liquify the chalkiness and emulsify into the textural fabric of the wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico La Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Really unique for Classico and also San Donato aromatics, somewhat herbaceous, lifted and floral. Definitely salty while well-seasoned, namely with white pepper and a curious note of mirto. Quite a swath of unresolved wood and very much a thickened texture. As Riserva and especially San Donato goes this will need and benefit from time in bottle. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Vineyards are 24-25 year-old for Riserva with some (25 percent) new barriques used for aging. Soft yet elastic tannins equip this 2020 for deeper term aging to the end of its first decade. Once again it is a matter of vintage and this one will see Riserva last several years longer than the Annata. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample and always Calidonia – Calidonia, the three vineyard (Vigna della signora Chiara, Finocchi and Perone) from Mocenni estate as Riserva that is the sangiovese incarnation of its maker Alessandra Casini. A Riserva of grace and fluidity, of movement as if feet do not touch the ground and corporeal body gliding effortlessly across the palate. The wine senza sforzo nel movimento, still in youth with wood purposed and informing fruit to come for the soirée and stay for the pleasure. As do we because the ingredients will eventually emulsify into a fine varietal salsa. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2024

The women of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castellina

What a change from year to year, still under the guidance of Franco Bernabei, still some salinity but the sappy quality is gone and now the sangoivese has some backbone. Structure is now part of Riserva’s world and in turn our experience. Last tasted May 2024

Perfumed to the hilt, a Castellina of quite mature fruit and seriously typical Riserva profile. Chalky as part of its tannic adjustment with wood a major part, espresso and dusty chocolate just omnipresent at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Riserva is expressive of some more warmth and also spice as compared to both Annata and Gran Selezione. In this respect it’s truly Riserva, the concept made even more notable due to the aromatic richness in layers of seductive perfume. If the others are crunchy wines with energy and freshness than this is the chewy one, with a different energy and style. More “ruffiano,” the kind of sangiovese you eat slowly and savour every bit of the sauce. Gonna need a few pieces of bread to get every last drop. 70,000 to 80,000 bottles produced. The 2018 sold like crazy and so this ’19 is out at the same time as the 2019 Annata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

High Gaiole tones of sweet vintage fruit filling the aromatic spaces above and between. Field blend style with all the endemic bits of varieties spicing and saucing the nooks, butte chambers and crannies of this wine. There are no moments when 2019 Badia a Coltibuono is quiet or absent – the wine gifts and gifts again, and again. This is the future and wouldn’t it be nice if this family could carry on this way for another 1000 years. The privilege can never be taken for granted. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza Di Claudia Cinuzzi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Traditional Chianti Classico from high elevation and verdant hills for sangiovese (with bits of canaiolo and malvasia nera) that can’t and will not be separated from its place. That would be Lamole and Riserva simply compounds the UGA’s character, compresses its feelings and expresses the emotions of a territory’s coolest location. This is parochial red wine of a specific and insular heritage and few other wines deliver this kind of specificity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Emilia, Maria Giovanna and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just recently bottled three months ago and will be released this month. There is no doubt this is the finest Riserva Giovanni has made in his 30-pus years at Casaloste. Immediately notice the salty note, the mineral streak, the moving of all parts together in mimic of a vintage where phenolic maturity and sugars came about slowly and incrementally as one. Perhaps 2016 was similar or close but this, this finds harmony as easily as it can possibly happen. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

“I remember 2019 when we tasted it together at the age that the 2020 is now,” says Paolo Cianferoni. “Now this 2019 is more relaxed.” Aromas are similar to the Mimma 2019, gently swarthy and fruity exotic, with a sense of that fruit becoming leathery but more floral along the way. “Here it’s a fresh place so the fruit is constant. The acidity is what makes the sangiovese so perfumed.” Paolo never touches the pH, no adjustments necessary because of the warming climate. Last tasted February 2024

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Doccio a Matteo is more settled and ready to enjoy than Caparsino, yet equally perfumed as the 2019s all seem to be. Liquid chalky, a true expression of Paolo’s three combined soils, each one layered upon one another. Galesto di Scalia (di Argilla), Alberese mixed with Sabia (sand), and finally a mix of sand and clay. Lovely mix of perfumes, silky textures and blood orange reduction for a truly layered sangiovese. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. More tannin and tension here, especially as compared to Riserva (Caparsino) and needing an extra year to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva from Colle Bereto’s Radda is about as pure, fresh and scintillatingly clean as it has ever been. What we should be incredibly thankful for is the patience to see this released as a 2019 in 2024. The tannins are well on their way to resolution while the acidity is maintained. A fine, fine example of all that Riserva can be in Chianti Classico. Classic, stylish and generous. Last tasted February 2024

Big and brawny wine from Colle Bereto for Riserva and 2019 though of a concern with fruit cast in balance against structure lined up for low, slow and carefully curated development. And maturity with pure sangiovese raised and never braised, surely to be exulted and ultimately praised. Loving the acids within that structure and the chalkiness in smart ratio these vineyards seem to procure. Bravo Bernardo. Certamente. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Giacomo Castellani – Tenuta Campomaggio, Radda

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva is a natural extension of Annata, as natural of fruit and acidity with a similar litheness and transparency. That said the concentration exceeds or steps up, without noticing wood even an iota more upon the structural parts. Here a blend of two vineyards, of Olmo and mostly Ginestraia. Fermentation in concrete and conical vats, aging for 18 months in the grandi botti. The mix of Pietraforte and Macigno soils will not be overstated and so Riserva comes away in doubled layers on repeat. There is no doubt that Riserva steps up from Annata but never abandons the basic Raddese fact of where these grapes are grown. Sangiovese with a double identity, of the two vineyards though from 2019 the Ginestraia Macigno holds more sway. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Santa Teresa 2019, Radda

In 2019 the Riserva labeled Santa Teresa is pulled from the vineyard called “Telignie,” though Campomaggio is not able to use the name because the house at the bottom of the hill is called the same. This is the Pietraforte vineyard, vinified and aged in the Troncone vats, simply done but with no botti because the vintage saw this vineyard give the best quality and also quantity. Approximately 10 percent whole bunch included to bring a new layer of texture and also complexity. Almost no wood noted and only purity meets parity. Balanced and seductive, shoulders relaxed and flavours repeatable sip after sip. Only 5,000-7,000 bottles made, of a total 35,000 production. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2019, Vagliagli

The label that represents the original and central part of Dievole, first made in 1990 that was essentially 900 years after the estate was born. Richer and bolder than Annata with a selection of best plots more concentrated on the higher elevations. The sangiovese receives a five percent mix of canaiolo and colorino, all aging in the big casks. Very blood orange, wealthy and juicy fruit, tannins balanced and integrated, spice all over the back end. That bite is urged on by the inclusion of 10 percent stems, many of them green. Still tight at the finish so we’ll see its best years beginning one from now. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Annata and Riserva at CCC2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

Quite a sappy and soupy 100 per cent sangiovese Riserva made by Attilio Pagli, before organics came in. A style for they who like sweet marmalata, a purée of minestre vegetable, an and after eight (chocolate mint), all of which can somehow be very appealing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Trasqua Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Fanatico 2018, Castellina

Chewy Riserva, fully formed and developed with some of Trasqua’s finest fruit to date. Good acids too, more than most vintages and it feels like this would have been picked in late September because the ripenesses are both fully realized. Stands at attention and delivers all that it could have possibly had to offer. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Just a bit warmer than 2019, “but not too much.” You really feel the freshness and the acidity in a much greater way from this 2018. Extremely youthful wine with all the acidity and structure truly captured. A sangiovese and Chianti Classico lover’s wine. Drink 2024-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Mature aromatics, chewy red fruit, all the leathery plum and liquorice that can be packed into a Chianti Classico Riserva. Developed to the drinking stage, earlier as a vintage than many, hot one mind you and showing that right now, and more. Some mineral and chalk to the structure but pretty much good to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

“My favourite wine,” says Paolo, “it has for me the depth of the season.” Great richness juxtaposed against acids and freshness with true herbal bitters as sweet as they are grippy. Truly classic sangiovese and Riserva, even more so than the Caparsino. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Unequivocal and unmistakable as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio for one reason alone and that is the blood orange perfume so bloody (pun intended) typical of this westerly UGA. Here as Riserva and from 2018 with its purity of red fruit so citrus is origin, fine grained though now liquefying tannin and from a vintage picked in late September yet balanced in alcohol, and ripeness ahead of a strange 48-hour spell cast by temperatures running daytime high and nighttime low. Really fine Riserva in the window at this very moment but will stay this way for three to four years easy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would habe been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Latest release and coming to market as Riserva for Castell’In Villa is 2017, of course and for all the right reasons. Is there an equal in Chianti Classico for this conditioning of 100 percent sangiovese raised in traditional ways that age concurrent with their modern ability to deliver joy and profundity in equal ways? The answer is hard to find and so what comes from ’17 and Castelnuovo Berardenga’s vineyards in surround of the borgo and dressed throughout the forests is in fact nothing short of profound. One of the only wines in the entire territory that need not be spoken about in terms of fruit, acidity and tannin. The approach is different, in how senses, feelings and emotions are solicited and how responses are metered to consider in terms of gravity and other physical forces at work. Ethereality is an obtuse description, as was profundity but they are what they are and the things that come to mind. Sorry, not sorry. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Panzano

Lowest of low yields and great attention needed to be paid in both fields and cellar to result in this fine Riserva ’17. Reduced tomato and still a crunchy sangiovese that needs no introduction. Blood orange citrus and charred herbs, complexities left, right and centre. The tannins dry out more than ’16 but there is no doubt they are children of the same parents. Only 7,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

Hottest vintage with sunburnt grapes but acidity remains high even while the wine may seem a bit toasted. Still plenty of freshness and a reminder that all the old vineyard fruit was used because Doccio a Matteo was not produced. Acids are strong and bright, fruit reduced but opening up and the wine is now in a proper drinking place. The answer to whatever question you are thinking is simple. Caparsa. It’s strong to be sure. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage with no Doccio Matteo made because the grape quality and also quantity was not up to Radda par. “The wine is a mirror of the land, the people and the weather, like a dog.” The grapes here are from both Riserva selections and so quality reaches above par as only one of two, our two in one were produced. Severe at its moments and yet there is much concentration and compact elements, especially chalk and tension in this grippy 2017. Wait on it – the acids are also there to act as the fruition reaching catalyst. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016, Panzano

More off a volumetric Riserva as compared to the output and also the texture of 2017. Similar aromatics to be honest, of tomatoes and blood oranges but also fresh red plums in 2016. The identity of the winery and the vineyard could never come into question. Says Dario Faccin, “you change the quantity but you don’t change the quality.” 18,000 bottles produced as compared to 7,000 in 2017. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

Always with three percent colorino and the Riserva that joins Caparsino through comes into being in a different way. True vintage richness but always the Caparsa freshness and spirit. This by way of acidity and intensity but who could not be seduced by the tannins and structure in spite of an “easy” season by Chianti Classico standards. A complete wine in every respect. Last tasted February 2024

The 2016 Doccio a Matteo is the first sangiovese (in this line-up) from Paolo Cianferoni that’s actually ready to drink, in fact it’s very much there with some drying tannin mixed with dried fruit happening. Full and caky wine, rich and substantial. Must have salty protein to show best and for the win. Tasted February 2023

A single-vineyard Riserva from the plot above the smaller second house called Caparsino and filled with all the soils; argile, Galestro and Alberese. Surely an absolute about face expression with higher volatility and a high, near and nigh potential for advancing porcini notes. A deeper and darker black cherry. Characterful and mature in such a different way, The acidity is uncompromising even while the wine acts oxidative with more wood than the other Riserva. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted February 2020

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Needing time to open up and so 24 hours will always benefit this wine, mainly sangiovese with just a bit (0-5 percent) canaiolo fermented together and the end result is unmitigated integration. The blood orange vintage, slow oxidized and matured in big barrel for 24-30 months, a spice continuum all the way through. Menthol on the palate at the back end and more spice – so much texture and so far from going secondary. Fine Riserva vintage for Losi. Last tasted February 2024

Losi Querciavlle, bastion of one of the globe’s most impressive Alberese landscapes and home to some of this territory’s finest chiselled sangiovese. Like marble structures slowly formed by only those who know how to separate the form from the mass. This is the intuition Pietro Losi and his prodigies know and gift to the world. Give their wines time and you will understand. Like this ’15 Riserva, strong, confident, understated, perhaps yet misunderstood but surely pure and true. Bravissimo. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2020

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

“A real nuclear bomb, like 2017 the vintage was every hot in 2015 and the tannins very aggressive,” remembers Paolo. Salty on the aromatics and while the wine has done some settling it’s truly taut and tannic. A beast this one that still needs more time. Not typical for 2015 but the life of this Doccio A Matteo will be much longer than 2016. Last tasted February 2024

A fresher and more spirited sangiovese as compared to 2016, energy still running full and yet you can drink this with the right amount of air. Chewy liquorice, some tar, iodine and soy. Chocolate, lots of the dark stuff. The wines showed more wood back in these vintages. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

With Neri Capponi

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2010

Chianti Classico UNESCO World Heritage; the modern history of Chianti Classico and Villa Calcinaia up to its UNESCO candidacy. Only four years later and coinciding with the full separation away from all other Chianti wines for a 2010 so much more fresh, alive and intense than Bastignano 2006. This from a very hot vintage and a sangiovese that finished at 14.63 percent alcohol. A much more balanced and baller wine, here as Riserva for Chianti Classico with energy and vigour in modo vogue. 5,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With Laura Bianchi, Giulia Cecchi and Jessica du Puy at Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, San Donato in Poggio

“One of the most elegant vintages in the early 2000s, not too cold, hot, hard or soft, and really well balanced,” explains Laura Bianchi. Aged in a combination of botti and tonneaux, now into full secondary comportment while still grippy and tannic. In truly fine condition though who could argue that the 1982 is fresher, of finer acidity and more balance than this ’04 made 22 years later. A sign of wood usage and the times, of pressing and extraction, of the sort of Chianti Classico that was desired 20 years ago. And yet, and yet the acidity and fine-grained tannin are together intrinsically connected for what can best be described as an unctuous union of the two. This wine just gets better and better in the glass. In fact the spirit and especially acidity are noted as they climb up the sides of the palate with sparks to a point just below the cheekbones. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2003, Radda

Wild wine from a wild vintage, crazy hot at a time when vintages like this were not the norm though were beginning to be. Hot year but also high acidity, likely because of hailstorms in July that knocked off half of the production. The vines reacted by delivering more acidity to support grapes that were maturing quicker and heavier. Still this is Caparsa and freshness persists no matter the dried wild strawberry and oaky flavours. “It’s not my wine because I prefer lighter wines but this is very nice – if you like rich and expressive.” Just a few bottles left in Paolo’s possession. Now only 23. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982, San Donato in Poggio

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1969, San Donato in Poggio

One of the coolest vintages of the era and going back to a time when the wood was chestnut for aging sangiovese. Showing with end stage maturity, especially as compared to the 1968 and 1970 Riserva tasted at Monsanto. There is this feeling of chestnut sap reduction, a kind of soy and vanilla pudding, an herbal note and a sweetness. Imagination begets fantasy and fantasy fades into demure. Tasted February 2024

With Maddalena Fucile, Matteo Vaccari and Bernardo Manetti at the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2021, Panzano

Oldest plot of vines are just approaching 50 years of age growing in the schist with Galestro flaking above the soil. Giovanni Manetti decided to bottle Sorbo as a single vineyard in 1985 though it does come from three plots of plantings put in between 1965 and 1973. Though April frost affected quantity in 2021 there was no compromise to quality and in fact this is as balanced a Vigna el Sorbo as Manetti has ever produced. Bottled just three-plus weeks ago and so yes it’s tight and compact, especially the tannins that take control but truth is this will continue to happen for another few months at the very least. See past the first stage and imagine what will be, take stock of memory and project towards the future. Manetti once said “the fresh finish (of the 1993 wine) should be the trademark of Chianti Classico wines.” Perhaps 2021 will emerge this way. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2021, Panzano

From the terraces around the old medieval Panzano church that the Manetti’s have and continue to restore for a Gran Selezione they were not sure would be made this early in their tenure of working with its fruit. Yet it shocked and surprised Giovanni and Bernardo to the point that it could be made at this level so early and so 2019 was the first, well ahead of schedule. This is a truly structured vintage, a trace of next direction, from the past and through the next generation, fruit so compact and mineral focused but tannins in complete control. The finish is beautifully salty and so completely Panzano. This puts San Leolino as Gran Selezione in next level and new light. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2021, Panzano

An important selection, in 2021 mainly from the Al Sole vineyard but also some fruit coming out of Francesca. “A great vintage for us,” says Iacopo Morganti. Unfortunately the Easter frosts reduced quantity by 40 percent. No matter because Il Margone’s position is to offer a calm respite away from wines too big for their own good, pivoted towards elegance in a sangiovese so right and so pure. Puts this in the finest Panzano light as a wholesome Margone by Morganti and Il Molino di Grace that will slowly evolve over a near 15 year period with kept freshness and slow development. Last tasted May 2024

Campione: Take a little trip forward along a linear and precisely drawn line from Riserva to Gran Selezione and see what will be. Not as aggressive or intense as Riserva but its own kind of powerful and grippy while also more charming. I believe its elegance will begin to show sooner rather than later, say in the first few weeks of 2021. The wood is more noticeable on the nose and the sangiovese needs time – but charm and grace is there. This you can count on. Smaller production of 8,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted October 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Campione: Will be bottled in August and released in 18 months. Since 2016 no frost issues and at this 400m-plus elevation site the April frosts have not been an issue. Striking Gran Selezione of lift, next level acidity and longest chains of tannic command. This may be a sample but it forges a connection between parts, to its Panzano vineyard, to some of Chianti Classico’s finest Galestro and iron soils, to the future. It’s all there, as are the passion plus hard work. The potential is almost impossible to imagine. The length is endless. 3,000 bottles will be made. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The aromas and perfumes are so much more prevalent and open for 2021 with stoniness and Castellina as the instigator for how this Gran Selezione is want to express itself. Crispy, savoury and the sort to really bite down and sink your teeth into. Last tasted April 2024.

New label not yet printed that likely indicated this has not been in bottle long and as a 2021 Gran Selezione that must surely be the case. Keep this in mind when you feel just how implosive and locked in the fruit is kept behind the wall of tannic sound. The freight is loaded in the compartments but the train has yet to leave the station – though as a 2021 there will be joy at the end of the line. With stops along the way because the vintage does not demand too much nor will it crash and burn. Brancaia’s 2021 is a ripe and primed GS to live out the decade and then for a few more years in the next. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2021, San Casciano

If it looks like, smells like and tastes like Badia a Passignano, well then it must be Badia a Passignano. Then again as a 2021 the fullness, generosity and natural phenolic grip meeting sweetness is unparalleled. Yes the underlying verdant savour is always there, always the Badia’s corner of San Donato in Poggio, but honestly the pulchritude of substance feels extant, furthered and extra level for Passignano. For Antinori. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Pietraforte meets Macigno and Galestro at Campomaggio, Radda

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2020, Castellina

Big and let’s reiterate big vintage for Capraia’s Castellina sangiovese and as Gran Selezione the ideal elevates to the hyperbole of an idiom. Thick, rich, oaky and seriously intense but boy that wood has to to settle and integrate. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Clean, advanced to a finer point and really showing the sweetness of fruit at this stage. Open whenever you are ready yet can also be kept for four-plus years. Last tasted February 2024

Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2020 is Gran Selezione like looking in the Castellina mirror because the purity of red, red, red fruit is the crux and at the core of what this wine wants to say. Hyper indicative of the vintage, clear and transparent, never too weighty or adamant and Fonterutoli puts everything in its rightful place. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February and October 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2020, Castellina

From Palagione where vines were first planted in 1965 and the material kept alive through massal selection. Here more structure and lower layers, compact yet breathable Gran Selezione that moves like an accordion. At once tight and playing bass notes but then open and making echoing sounds. A complex wine so young and yet with such a bright future ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sei 2020, Castellina

Sei is long but Sei is right. Sei knows what’s what and is ready for the fight. With itself, a self imposed struggle that mimics the vines and what they had gone through in the vintage. A warm one but this amazing vineyard at 500m sprawled over a hill convex and rolling is the place where Castellina sangiovese turns out this kind of succulence. The maker knows what he’s got and delivers the goods, less in the face then many from 2020 and with grace. This is a fine wine. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Really, really dark blood orange, deeper, darker and richer than what will likely come next from 2021. Spicy nose, wild, almost ferocious and great complexity, wound tight and the palate acting so multifaceted as well, but yet to unwind. Persistence is wow, going on forever. A serious, polished and fabulous 2020 Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: A barrel sample but how can Colonia not be distinctive? Gotta be just about ready to get into bottle at this three-plus-plus year mark, savoury bits swirling and fruit layers compounded with great force. The way the warm and frankly big vintage manifests itself here is with fruit intensity and wood spice that piques here, there and everywhere. A Colonia that needs years to integrate and more time too settle in. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

“A vintage a little hidden between two great ones, 2019 and 2021,” tells Francesco Mazzei. The fruit comes from one special and large (nine hectare) parcel in Castelnuovo Berardenga on the Vagliagli side not far from Mocenni. A wild weave of expositions crisscrossing the apex and crests of a hill at 350m-plus with views to all directions. Makes for a complex patterning of fruit and acidities, a venn diagram of all that is Mazzei, the experience with Fonterutoli, the new frontier in Castelnuovo and Gran Selezione. Some variegate phenolics add to the mystique while dry and botanical Amaro comes later to expand upon the multiplicity of the wine. There is much going on and the need to wait a year or two is recommended. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

The sangiovese comes from the highest of the San Felice vineyards with a few points here and there of other indigenous varieties like the variant of colorino (called abrusco), malvasia, pugnitello and ciliegiolo. So youthful with still gritty or sandy tannins, high tonality but always the balsamic, spices and herbs. Wood is very much in the aromatic mix but also on the texture, thick as thieves with those hard-working tannins. Give it five years and things will get oh so very interesting. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Castello Di Ama Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG San Lorenzo 2020, Gaiole

San Lorenzo is one of the most unique Gran Selezione because, well it was always one, long before it was allowed to be labeled this way. The large vineyard was the Classico for Castello di Ama, the wine that represented the vineyards and estate in the most succinct way. That said it was always about breadth and quantity, as it is now though the vines have been been held, treated and farmed to the highest standard. The 2020 is an aromatic beast, meaty and floral, of evergreen and spices. A potpourri and a masala, the palate acting out the stew of all these aromatics accenting juices, fats and proteins for the most well-developed Gran Selezione in the territory. A fantasy of sangiovese with 13 percent merlot and (7) malvasia nera for 60,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Exuberance and scintillant matter exude from Brolio’s energetic 2020 Gran Selezione which is truly a selection in the form of a “Villages” example taken from 270-pus hectares and at least five different terroirs. A layered and variegate mix of sand, clay and limestone, a lacustrine set of complexities lending all that is needed to create such a well-rounded example of Gran Selezione. Defines Gaiole and Ricasoli, discovers the vintage and delivers the goods. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2020, Gaiole

Colledilà, likely “lost” from the Welsh and yet this first Gran Selezione labeled with its Gaiole UGA will leave us all anything but. Like a an old and beautiful Welsh folk song about a love lost this is the sort of sangiovese that may just make you wistful and weepy. That is because Ricasoli has discovered what makes these grapes round out into a most ideal example of Gran Selezione. This is a soulful and spiritual hymn to Chianti Classic and specifically Gaiole, living, breathing and singing. There is charm, elegance and beauty here, not to mention to kind of structure built upon epochs of geology to see this linger well into the next and further decades. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Gittori 2020, Gaiole

Yet juicy, not finally because it always was for a crispy vintage of Riecine’s top drop. What truly matters now is the incredible length to tell us that the wine is in a great position and the possibilities will travel long. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wholly singular Gran Selezione aromatic set, a smoulder not noted in any other sangiovese, certainly not at this level. That said the red citrus of Riecine can’t be missed, that plus tar and roses notes so reminiscent of some nebbiolo. This would be a great ringer to throw into a mixed sangiovese and nebbiolo blind tasting with tasters struggling to decide which were which. Great length from Riecine and without a doubt a wine for cellaring. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2020, Greve

A Sofia, self denoted label for proprietor Sofia Ruhne and a Gran Selezione from the vineyard opposite the estate on terraces rising up the eastern hill of Greve. A 2020 of restraint, clarity and controlled intensity, many old vines imparting their wisdom to develop concentration, but never too much. There is a not too hard and not too soft aspect of this sangjovese. It speaks to the heart of the Terreno matter. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

With John Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Prima 2020, Greve

La Prima is as it states, the first Gran Selezione and the larger of the two in terms of production for Vicchiomaggio. Richness and somewhat middle of the road structure but all falls into place without much obstruction. Stony and grippy, liquid chalky and quite fine all around, while also softened by 10 percent merlot. Not as complex as Le Bolle to be sure but a fine representative of Matta’s Greve nonetheless. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Victoria, Federica, Sebastain and Delfina Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2020, Greve

Sister Gran Selezione to La Prima, certainly not La Seconda but rather “Le Bolle,” literally the “bubbles.” Happens to be the name of the top parcel at Vicchiomaggio and a Gran Selezione that captures every ounce of fruit and moment of truth for the vintage. And yet at 13.5 percent alcohol it’s a bit of a throwback, a light and bright star for the appellation at the near minimum as far as discipline and rules are concerned. This is about as elegant and graceful as it gets for the appellation so that great food can be paired alongside for years to come. If I were designing a pairing menu today this would rise to the top of the list. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. One of the baller and brazen Gran Selezione in Conti Capponi’s work, doubled down by a vintage of similar character. Intense minerals and elemensl streaking through chalky fruit that mimics and speaks to the terroir – an Alberese stone that will not be denied. This is indeed serious and structured. Wait a minimum four years people. Please. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. Richer, thicker, softer and less intense than certainly Bastignano and in fact the lack of power makes Contessa Luisa show its wood to much greater effect. Sure this needs to relax, settle, integrate and transform but Luisa will always be the softest and dreamiest of the Gran Selezione ‘20s. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. If Bastignano is the beast and Contessa Luisa the beauty then where does that put La Fornace? Not exactly in the middle but shall we say at the mean with its complimentary mix of brawn and beauty, a handsome 2020 of warmth and energy, higher acidity and a burning desire to please. The furnace is on a heater but the flame will die down and eventually breeze to a flicker, after five or six years before fully softening at around 10 to 12. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2020, Montefioralle

Another 2020 from Terreno but this time the terrain is Montefioralle, off of Formazione di Silano geology and so there is grit and power that A Sofia does not show. A Gran Selezione of musculature but a toned and taut corporeal type. Also finer or at least sharper acids from the Sillano and more wood noted as well. May live longer than it’s sister but it shows less finesse – which is splitting hairs but that’s how we look at children of the same parents. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Corso, Bernardo and Margherita Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2020, Panzano

If you think there has been movement from Vigna del Sorbo 2020 think again because the locks remain on the doors, the windows closed and the sign says “come back next season.” Last tasted February 2024

Three parcels, two planted between 1965 and 1971 plus 1973, coming together because the uniqueness of these three plots are the schist soils that manifest above ground as Galestro. All about spiciness and mid-palate volume. The sorbo is a local fruit, specific to Tuscany, very dry and tannic, much like grapes. And hello to the Chianti Classico UGA within Greve commune because this is the first label to say Panzano, 40 years in the making and finally the mention is here. Structure is serious from a reduced crop yield due to frost in April and this is what Giovanni Manetti had to say at the time. “We had a couple of days very cold, April 6th and 7th but the damages are limited to the young vines. The majority of the buds of the other vines were still closed and were not hurt by the frost. In the rest of the CC territory there were some damages in the warmer areas and zero in the cooler ones like Radda and Lamole. The frost in 2017 was much more worse than this.” A linear Vigna del Sorbo this 2020, taut, extremely young and with a great potential. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2020, Lamole

The sangiovese from Lamole of the vineyard strewn with stones of marine origin. Marne di Macigno is the derivative geological term used by Giovanni Manetti and who should argue with the logic? A vein of calcareous material runs through, surely come down from Monte San Michele, up above at 1000m direction Radda. Almost as if both Lamole and Panzano are present in this unicorn vineyard, a marriage of two UGAs in one thin strip of terraced steppes encompassing a single block. Fermentation in amphora “to highlight the fruit in another way,” tells Bernardo Manetti. The most textural of all the Fontodi wines, and indeed a pulpiness as opposed to the glissade of especially the Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. “The nose is like music,” says Giovanni Manetti. Classically composed, lyrical and asymmetrically on repeat. Someday Pastrolo may become Fontodi’s biggest prize. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2020, Panzano

How much does the human factor effect a wine like San Leolino? The answer lies in the relationship between the land, weather, vintage and in how the people who work the fields to maximize the gifts made available to them. From 2020 the quotient is high, above 2019 and ready to pass the torch to 2021. At least in these first three vintage the incline is palpable, the progression linear and more importantly vertical. This is great and 2021 will take it further. Allow the wood to settle for two more years. Last tasted February 2024

From the vineyards surrounding the 9th century Pieve and you know what they say. “Sangiovese is planted, consequences follow.” A 15th century drawing found in a Florence museum proves that monks cultivated grapes on this property at that time. More perfume than the Classico level Panzano and so there is proof that this terraced land with high level Alberese soils provides aromatics and great structure in the way a Lamole plus Panzano might hypothetically get together for a similar result. Leolino is not a go between but something unique, something other. Special and of an aging potential that may just be more promising than that of Vigna del Sorbo, but let’s wait 10-15 years to see if that will come to be true. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Tenth anniversary for the Gran Selezione appellation that was first launched by Il Molino di Grace with the 2010 vintage released in 2014. While Riserva may have come to a readied state Il Margone has not, because tannin times acidity come out doubly aggressive, like the Annata but magnified to the power of 10. Crazy Panzano acidity, sweet and extremamente ventoso. Not far away but still not there. Last tasted February 2024

The vineyard that gives the best quality is Magdalena Vineyard planted around 2010, both for 2020 and what’s to come in 2021. When you have less production it’s easier to separate the wheat from the chaff and so the lots fermented separately are easier to identify. This 2020 proposes an extreme set of tannic proportions but sweet fruit with heft, weight and flesh is up to the task. Tasted October 2023

Fine tannic presence from Gran Selezione for 2020, several steps up from Riserva with less pitch and grab but still overt dark fruit. More diversity and complexity in perfume, notable violets and rose but really what stands out here is how the tannins allow the fruit to stay up front. There are no perceived grains or sand-papery textures involved, neither is Il Margone soft or fluffy. There may only be 8,000 or so bottles available at this quality and so a rare and must have wine it most certainly will be. Iacopo Morganti explains it well. “It’s not easy too make three different levels of Chianti Classico. You need to understand the vintage and the differences, especially when you have less quantity.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

The IdF 2020 will be released in two or three months and if the vineyard were registered as Panzano (and not Montefioralle) then it will be the first GS labeled with the UGA. A wholly apposite vintage to 2021, grippier with fruit shaded darker and brooding, but what really stands out is the ferric and the sanguine, intense and reductive iron blood of jove. Like eating grilled calf’s liver and now the deep red Panzano soil from this single vineyard really hits hard and flows through the corpulence of the sangiovese. The vineyard will be called Le Falcole on the label as of 2020. One of the most intense and identifiable expressions of any in all of Chianti Classico. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

Campione: A sample but more developed as such than so many because Le Fonti, unlike many others does not feel the need to extract and press to impress. In fact there is a level of restraint and fineness that speaks to confidence but also a Gran Selezione made in the way it simply had to be made. Important as one hundred percent sangiovese and definitive of Le Fonti’s finest available fruit in their north-easterly aspect and exposure of Panzano. This is seriously good. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rignana 2020, Panzano

Gran Selezione is 100 percent sangiovese, just bottled in June of 2023. First vintage was 2013 and this 2020 is the first to see Panzano gracing the label under the new rules of the UGA. Similar elévage to the Riserva with all small barrels from a 2003 planted vineyard packed with lots of clay, Alberese lower down and Galestro at the top. Floral example, a bit of acetone, some wood scents of vanilla and coconut and finally balsamico. High acid, sharp, quite tannic and needing a few years to settle in. Will be a much better wine once the integration occurs. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

Curious how 2020 shows a bit more maturity then the 2019 Gran Selezione and the vintage is a bit of a crossroads for this appellative level of a Brancaia Classico. Shows its wood with more aromatic and also textural density, acids are lower and a bit brooding while overall the feeling is of one very experienced and complete Gran Selezione. Balsamico at the finish and balance for sure. Last tasted May 2024

The Brancaia from Castellina is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February and October 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Solatìo 2020, Radda

Starting at Annata 2021, through Riserva 2021 and here to Gran Selezione 2020 we see, nose, taste and feel Albola’s progression, in descending order. The most fruit, sweetest acidity, finest integration and more generous gifts are in this wine. Less structured than many Gran Selezione while also less intense, brooding or formidable as many peers – but sometimes fruit is everything. As here with a 2020 that’s ready and willing to please. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2020, Radda

The Radda Gran Selezione is born of high higher elevation, at 570m below the tiny abbey and truly aboard the glare of white sandy limestone with some Galestro flaking at the surface. The most lift, highest tone and brightest style, part soil and part elevation, but most of all forethought. The fact that the Mazzei decided to acquire this place in 1989, whether by brilliance, chance or both, it only matters that this is a special place today with the ability to create a beautiful and fascinating wine. The energy and finesse is next level from Badiòla 2020, fresh as it gets and with a potential to age for a decade plus. Last tasted February 2024

Badiòla out of Radda is the work of Fonterutoli (out of Castellina) though the distance between cantina and vineyard is not that great. Lovely bit of swarthy behaviour and also an airy quality so elevation surely plays a role and Mazzei clearly sees the potential in this site. High toned and a notable acetone quality though it finds a way to play nice and stay well beneath dangerous thresholds. Good work and promise is clearly the thing. Drink relatively young if best after two more years and look for 2021 to surely be a cracker example of this Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2020, San Casciano

Campione: A sample but a well nigh finished one because it has been in vessels for coming on three and a half-plus years. A Belleza not yet released because well, 2020. Biggest fruit, forested acidity and baddest tannins all conspire for a Gabbiano as substantial and powerful as there ever was. The 100 percent sangiovese aspect is a major component in the result but vintage takes the cake and eats it too. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

With Cristina Fonte – Poggio Torselli, San Casciano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Only sangiovese, single vineyard of the name Montecapri, a Gran Selezione first made in 2013, skipped for a couple of years and resumed in 2016. Concentrated grapes but more than that a different sort and a freshness that neither Annata nor merlot seemed able to find. Spicy fruit, 30 months in those big casks and so a protected but far from oxidative example with a maximum 5,000 bottle production. This is the beginning of a project that will only get better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2020, San Casciano

The original Gran Selezione for Villa Le Corti, that being Don Tommaso, incidentally labeled with its UGA while “Zac” adds the Val di Pesa suffix, as per the commune. Quite the fleshy and substantially concentrated 2020, impressively so, rich, luxe and jam-packed with flavour. A mix of 80 percent sangiovese with merlot (that will not be available in 2023 due to no production because of downy mildew). A bit woody on the palate at this youthful stage but this will pass and Don Tommaso will drink dutifully if also effortlessly through the latter stages of this one and into the first stretches of the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted twice October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

If Vignalparco is something to behold from the big, bad and bold vintage then Gran Selezione is not just another but an apposite matter altogether. Triply rich, fortified and tannic as a wall of hard Alberese, impenetrable and the wine just feels like it’s on the dark side of that moon. If there is one – and many have questioned the notion, but seriously this Gran Selezione is not nothing. Not hard mind you, just a force of Chianti Classico nature. Boom! Wait five years. Trust this is the truth. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feels like a very mature Gran Selezione for 2019 and so perhaps some oxidation from this sample amplified by tasting it late on day two at the Collection Looking forward to another opportunity down the road. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casasilla 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Casasilia which can mean “the blessed house” is tied to Badia a Passignano just one kilometre away and the pre-1990 name of Poggio al Sole under the previous ownership. The flagship wine that was Riserva changed to Gran Selezione as of the 2012 vintage. Best grapes, harvested a bit later and longer macerati”on. Once fermentation and maceration are complete the “130 percent sent to barriques (between 10 and 20 percent new) is then narrowed down to its 100 number. Hard to imagine or find more suave texture and refinement which in GS translates as scorrevole. Which tells us that Poggio al Sole has as much in common with Panzano as it does with San Donato in Poggio. Playful acidity, precision and fine tuning. Runs on Swiss time if you will. A mulch of grippy tannin on the back end suggests waiting a year or two. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2019, Castellina

Single vineyard sangiovese from Casteto at the highest eastern heights of the Western Castellina vineyard. Most freshness and elegance of all the Cecchi sangiovese and from 2019 a wine so ready to drink you will find it hard to keep any bottles in the cellar. Not that structure is an issue because Villa Rosa will mature slowly over a five year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2019, Castellina

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the “croccante” and “graffiante” nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

Mainly Sangiovese with some colorino and a few splashes of merlot “that speaks Chiantigiana.” Also a 500m elevation for most of these grapes, the sangiovese planted in the 80s and converted to organic in the 90s. A stony Galestro soil opposite to the sandy clay and calcari, i.e Calcinaia around the borgo and winery. Only Cellole delivers this cool, liquid peppery swarthiness that the Classico does not show and also a combination of verdant but also distinct minerals notes. Tannins are exceptionally taut with at least two to three years remaining before they begin to truly integrate. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

From the oldest vineyard planted by in 1972 by the Scalerandi family, two owners before Sophie Conte’s father purchased the estate. More obvious concentration than any of the other Tregole wines but also this settled, calming and fully nourished feeling. Have a glass of Gran Selezione 2019 and it will feel like the end of a great meal without having overeaten. The vineyard delivers great material and the layers of fruit are more than apparent. Having tasted vintages going back several years now you can see the development and the acumen growing in Conte’s world. This falls right in the middle but the learning curve is showing. There is a tiny bit of oxidative character on the back palate and so this vintage is more than ready with a delicious finish that reminds of certain dry amaro. Last tasted May 2024

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The Montaperto layering of many red fruits are the crux of the perfumes and freshness out of ’19, they being pomegranate, currant and plum, juices running and so many layers to peel away. Focused vintage and “we love it,” adds Gioia. Return in a year and see just where it looks like this will go. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggiorosso 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Almost hard to believe but 2019 seems bigger, broader and in a way wilder than the 2020 Poggiorosso and yet this single vineyard Gran Selezione is a force to reckoned with, no matter the vintage. The vibrancy and especially the acidity is the wild aspect of a sangiovese that acts a bit the rebel, with cause. Quality here is tops in every respect, fruit is ripe on both ends and that acidity is really quite sweet. Splitting hairs compared to 2020 but this is something special. Amazing work from all new 500L tonneaux. Drink 2024-2037. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sorleone 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A mix of energetic freshness and structured depth, somewhere ideally in between where Sorleone resides in this its sixth vintage as Gran Selezione (though its was not made in 2020). First vintage with new oenologist (Attilio Pauli) will be with the 2021 though the winemaking team in the cantina stays the same. In the window beginning now or perhaps just recently and this mix of glycerin and sweet spice does well to activate the salutary and imaginative senses. Fine shape for a fine wine. 3,000-5,000 bottles per year, this being on the higher end. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2019, Gaiole

There was a local who knew the name of the vineyard and said it was called I Rialzi, which translates as “the lifted up,” or in another way of saying it, rizalto. The rocky location housed a ditch or a gully in the direction rising up towards Badia a Coltibuono. Over time the soils settled to hide the clough but the extreme rocky soils are still home to the vines. Says Lamberto Frescobaldi, “the vineyard matters most,” even more so than the estate or the denomination. In Gran Selezione terms at least. Frescobaldi was told “I don’t give a shit about a selection from you. I want a selection from one vineyard.” So, how does this make that happen, offer a taste or sense of Rialzi? It does so with aromatic volume and vigour, tension and the experience of fruit from a given vintage. As for 2019 well substantial and stress free is helpful but acidity and a wine’s anxiety are what drive Rialzi, no matter its philanthropy. In the end Rialzi is a gift, of Perano and Gaiole. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Greve

The first commercially available vintage was 2017, from the highest reaches out of Querciabella’s vineyard parcels between 450 and 530m aboard the Ruffoli hill. Picked four weeks ahead of same altitude vines in Lamole because of exposure and well, Ruffoli. Treated to a submerged cap, i.e. capello sommerso methodology, a simmer of skins kept wet just as they have been doing forever in Barolo. This means a quality of tannin that comes out by infusion as opposed to extraction and with such an ideal vintage the result is uncompromising. Freshness captured, instinct incarnate, tannic freight compact, though the layers have breezes blowing through. Precise and focused as expected and the finale lingers forever. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

With Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Lamole

From the oldest vines, including those planted back in 1965 and aged for two years in large cask, a.k.a. grandi botti. The old vines show what can be done from lowest of yields, highest of concentration and by way of a contract that seeks and attains the necessity of elegance. Everything about Susanna Grassi’s Gran Selezione speaks to the Lamole UGA, in sweetly herbal and savoury perfume, a floral note connected to the botany and grace under the pressure of structure so well defined. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vecchie Vigne 2019, Lamole

Old vines from Podere Castellinuzza’s high elevation Lamole location are the impetus to set this Gran Selezione apart while keeping in perfumed line with compatriots of that most unique UGA. Who does not want to own fruit from this location in today’s Chianti Classico and this family’s time has surely come. The next epoch of sangiovese from Lamole begins right here with succulence, energy and intensity. Floral and spicy, austere in a tannic way while gently rustic, but so very beautiful in all these ways. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With Emanuele Graetz – Isole delle Falcole, Panzano

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

Just beginning to open and emerge because the vintage delivers that kind of fruit generosity but the vineyard simply will not be quiet or separate itself from this always bloody sangiovese, not even for a moment. The heavy metal presence creates the most metallic, elemental and mineral trilogy, a triptych of sangiovese, acidity and powerful tannin to equip this Gran Selezione for a decade-plus of immovable life ahead. Last tasted February 2024

The project of Emanuele Greatz, exporter of Roberto Voerzio, Il Molino di Grace, San Fillipo (Roberto Gianelli) and Barbaresco’s Russo. This is the early fruition of Emanuele’s dream, renting Panzano land in 2016 to eventually purchase and a first vintage in 2017. The land is officially Emanuele’s now. The name of the Conca or amphitheatre actually shares an affinity with the Conca d’oro, in shape, orientation and yet there is much more forest and also higher elevation. Total of four hectares planted, 1.2 up on the hill facing south at 420m and roughly two below the house, both set in Montefioralle. The final 0.8 for the Gran Selezione is in Panzano right next to Montefili and so Graetz calls it Montefili – internally.” It will be called Il Falcole. Gran Selezione 2019 is solo sangiovese sent to 30 months in big barrel combination of French and Slavonian. Purely Panzano through a Selezione of a pinpointed place and to be honest the fruit is a bit deeper and darker than many Panzano ‘19s. That said there are layers and layers to unfold, unfurl and open with high acidity from the high elevation vineyard up at 520m. Where else is Panzano (other than Montefili and Cenattoio) will express this elevation in this wild-eyed and excitable way? A harbinger of the future and initialization of the realization of Emanuele’s dream is in this glass, from this bottle. Wait three years to understand just a bit more and figure things out for 10 more thereafter. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2019, Radda

All sangiovese and nothing but the sangiovese in one of the first iterations of Gran Selezione under the guidance of new and improved ownership. Brightest of red fruit for a concept and work in progress that seeks to deliver utter transparency for lower (relatively speaking) elevation out of Radda. Firm enough though the tannins are anything but austere. Drink early GS, again, relatively speaking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

From the first vineyard purchased by Barbara Widmer’s parents, Brigit and Bruno, back in 1980. Ripped out and re-planted in 1999 with four clones chosen from the Chianti Classico 2000 project because massal selection was not viable at the time. Great fruit, grainy structure and time needed to heal the wounds and rusticity off the wine. There is so much character and potential with almost no maturity showing yet, however those tannins and that fruit do tumble around together. Wait another year, or so. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

Like Riserva the Colle Bereto showing at the Chianti Classico Collection in 2024 is 2019 for Gran Selezione. Not quite as mature and resolved as the other appellative level but still en route and in a similar arena. More strength and power from these saucy tannins, long-chained and still visible, if also reverberating. The wood is still very much in control so be patient and allow a rendering, but also the disappearance of a mild swarthiness. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2019, San Donato In Poggio

The arrival of an Il Poggio is greeted with great anticipation because luxury and fortune have beget tastings of several recent and also older vintages. So imagine what Monsanto’s 2019 will surely bring to the table out of San Donato in Poggio. No ordinary moment, but one likely to get frozen into time. Open heart and mind, dig into deeper understanding and intuitive possibility. Gran Selezione 2019 from the Bianchi family’s hilltop vineyard is sublime. Concentrated, understated, refined, precise and giving. Nurturing if edgy but always gracious and unselfish. A touch reductive, protected and of course stylish. A moment so vivid it causes ache, awe and longing. Too much waxing for a bottle of wine? Actually no but another Il Poggio for the ages. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2023

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Bottled in September of 2023 though winemaker Riccardo Nuti is keenly aware how much more time is needed and so plans are to release this Gran Selezione after a full year in bottle. Sees 20 percent amphora because frankly Montecchio is not just a Fattoria of wine (and olives), but also a “fornace” for working with clay. An original in this regard and one of the pioneers for GS aging. The ’19 sings with pure and unadulterated sangiovese aromas, explicitly San Donato in Poggio because of the red florals, citrus and sanguine character. Also brings an added layer of palate texture, the kind that settles and coats, but fruit is the medium. With time the defraying will become a glissade but for now the verticality of this Selezione is not ready to relax or relent. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Gioia, Sara and Filippo Cresti – Carpineta Fontalpino, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2019, Vagliagli

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The dried balsamic quality of 2018 is here replaced but more freshness and spirit. A richer wine in 2019 as compared to Montaperto with the wood more involved – while the wine this young is trying to figure out its way through adolescence. The clay is fully involved in just how textured and fruity Dofana acts in this inimitably generous vintage. Flesh will come, with time. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2019, Vagliagli

A 6.4 hectare vineyard at 450m which qualifies as the highest point of Dievole. A south exposure with Macigno and outcroppings of clay to deliver more power than any other estate sangiovese. The aromatics are expressly consistent with Riserva (and also Casanova) but the musculature is taut and developed. That which Riserva commits to is magnified in this fourth vintage of the Gran Selezione, none more so than the tannins which grab, grip, secure and hold on tight. They compound and reside in the arena of the austere at the finish of this profound wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Michaela Morris and Christine Lechner at Prowein 2024

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2018, Castellina

Paronza is the name of the vineyard and comes from a hospital housed by a monastery that hosted pilgrims. Still the work of Atillio Pagli, sappy like the Riserva, fruit quality improved from the ’18 Riserva while so soft and creamy with that same kind of perceived sweetness. Ready. Last tasted May 2024

Well traveled, maturing and warm Gran Selezione from Castellina’s Casale dello Sparviero, of high aromatic intensity to match stride for stride a sangiovese poised at the ready. Herbal for Castellina though neither brushy dry or brassy, but instead a juicy bleed of fruit and flora. Solid GS through and through, equivocating and evocative of the UGA. Last tasted October 2023

Paronza is a buoyant and almost weightless, gravity defying Gran Selezione, easy of mind, body and alcohol. Aromatically reticent and a wine so young you really have to play, swirl and agitate to get any kind of emotive response. Perfume, red fruit and fresh sanguinity do emerge, followed by a sappy, almost syrupy texture dominated by liquid Galestro-willed tannins. Very Castellina, wholly vintage related and will drink well beginning two years or so from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2022

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

There is ten percent pugnitello with the sangiovese, already meeting the new requirements of the Gran Selezione. From the 2020 vintage San Marcellino will say Gaiole on the label. Aging is 25 months in barriques, tonneaux and botti, 25 per cent new oak overall. Almost three years in bottle at this stage. Finest of San Marcellino tannins are coming about ever so slowly, surely to mature over a 15 year period. Tells Marco Ricasoli, “elegance does not mean weakness. The power does not affect your mouth.” Posit tug between salinity and sapidity. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

So fresh, young and structured but my if there is another Gaiole Selezione with as much stuffing as San Marcellino it would be beneficial to hear about it. Thirty-plus year potential. Truthfully. Tasted May 2023

The next San Marcellino Gran Selezione is a big one, strong willed and big-boned, laced with trace schisty-marl-Galestro elements and minerals from a vineyard capable of structuring wines like no other. This is Monti in Chianti, of all the red, blue and black fruits, coming away violet purple and speaking about a season. A warm one, all the way through to October and the phenolic ripeness here is off the proverbial charts. Wow. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Not yet released and will have at lest three more months in bottle before that can happen. A strong vintage and normally the release would be the fall but both wood and fruit need to time to find each other. The substance in Sassello 2018 is, well substantial, in fact something more than that. Richness at the height of Verrazzano’s abilities but my goodness this packs a punch while also showing off the modernity and harmony that define this estate today. Bravissimo. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

The thing that connects Sassello and Valdonica is the vintage, the power and the full on substantial effects compactly packed yet carefully multi-layered. A swarthiness really separates this GS from Sassello in ways that put this in its own light. The aromas and flavours also bring in exotic spices but also a succulence that show how special and different this sangiovese truly is. It walks a fine line, flirts with danger and comes out singing. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Emilia and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fine swirl of sangiovese with voluminousness liquid peppery aromas from the word go that are commanding and unrelenting. Put your nose into Giovanni d’Orsi’s Gran Selezione from late (though properly timed) harvesting for what was necessary out of Panzano. For 2018 that is because late September heat by day and cold by night meant stem ripeness, higher alcohol and captured acidity. All of which put 2018 Casaloste into fine form, big and meaty, bountiful and elastic. Bravo. Drink 205-2032. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pecchia 2018, Panzano

Pecchia from only Pietraforte Panzano soils was IGT through the 2016 vintage, skipped in 2017 and brought into the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation in 2018 with the estates first Gran Selezione. Less transparency but clearly more polish and luxe disposition than Gallùle but what this expresses are hearty matters of spotless and seamless perfection. Structurally speaking the Pietraforte puts this sangiovese in a most precise place to establish a top position in every respect. Just 3,000 bottles produced and though there was great heat at the launch of harvest there were also low nighttime temps and all the acidity was preserved. Great graphite style and cool as an October Panzano night. Really special wine. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bambole 2018, Panzano

Campione: Of all the Gran Selezione samples this Le Bambole is one should be the nearest to be ready because, well it’s 2018. Now two years longer in waiting than most other unreleased samples and yet mon dieu this ’18 is still so far away from being ready. Uncanny how much Pietraforte strength Il Bambole is want to direct as itself and on our palates that feel both slaughtered and bamboozled. So befitting the name and also the vintage which delivered great late September heat. Cold nights too which is why this acidity is striking and frankly necessary. On par with 2016 which is a feat in itself. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Villa Trasqua Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Nerento 2017, Castellina

Nerento offers up that super important and at times rare mix of maturity and results based on time having been the necessity to allow for an approach to drinking this Gran Selezione at this stage. The wood would have been obtrusive and on top just six months before and this timing is fortuitous to say the least. Some raisin and fig with high quality acid and a balsamic sweetness woven through the tannin. Not an extreme vintage as might be expected but surely a high-toned one. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2017, Gaiole

Third vintage of Rialzi from a hottest and driest one, though always worth a reminder that Perano is high elevation Gaiole – meaning a cooler and fresher place. In Chianti Classico terms this means the vineyard and its cooling maintenance from rockiest of soils lends a much needed pulse, flux and regulating ability to ensure sangiovese’s credibility. Vigour and dewiness are preserved which allows Rialzi ’17 to grace the palate like clean early morning summer moisture on grass and bushes. Fruit was hung a little bit longer than many other single-vineyard Gran Selezione to be sure, full phenolic maturity has been acceded and the conclusion is about a full and favourable sangiovese. A unique one at that and one to surely benefit from some rest in the cellar. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2015, Castellina

In agreement with Andrea Cecchi whereby in some ways 2015 is still a baby, but on another level the maturity is there, or at least seen that wasy through one of the two open bottles. This second pour is not only the answer to a predictive moment made in September 2018 but a reconciliation of what Villa Rosa sangiovese is want to become. Youthful and yet ready, in the first stages of secondary character but at least five more years shall pass before the next phase begins. Last tasted May 2024

These are not the richest and most extracted Chianti Classico and they are truly driven by acidity, a Castellina acidity to be sure, edgy, expected or not. The red fruit is direct and linear lightning, not overly complex and certainly true to consistent form. It’s actually quite amazing to note this form of sangiovese structure as being very specific to commune, very close to the Valore Gran Selezione and recognizable for place as much as any in the entire territory. This will evolve slower than the Valore, in fact I can’t see it changing all that much in the next five years. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted September 2018

Losi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Millennium 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Still quiet and reserved, far from even hinting at the end of its first millennium in bottle. Full and still in a chaste state, a textural casted Gran Selezione that exults the finest selections of Losi’s vineyards. Gives and gives some more but its best and most complex days still lay ahead. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 1988, Castellina

From 1988, raised on Piaggia, the top of the Villa Rosa hill and aged in chestnut barrels. In great shape, truly well kept and the toasted chestnut aromas are those caught in a time machine. Chianti Classico and sangiovese from another era, a savoury balsamico, however that is consistent if altered because of time. Time that has softened and dried out the fruit yet the palate delivers a level of freshness that needs to be tasted to be believed. Speaks to wine being made the right way at the time and yet you wouldn’t do things this way now because the sangiovese demands evolution and a new approach. A look back that says you can peer through a portal to see changes coming and for the next 40 years. Tasted May 2024

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG

Castello Di Monsanto Vinsanto Del Chianti Classico DOCG Occhio Di Pernice 2006

Rare and different for VinSanto, here as 100 percent sangiovese and in many ways nothing like the style that comes from those made with trebbiano and malvasia. Plenty more caramel and especially spice, of nutmeg, sweet lemon and iced tea. A really fine black tea, tannic and softened by clover honey. Sweetness, acidity and impeccably balanced. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2024

San Giusto A Rentennano Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG Giusto 1999

Remember that a great vintage for reds might not succeed with Vinsanto and vice versa but this 1999 just feels like ideal middle ground. Intense sweetness (around 350 g/L) with lower volatility and solid acidity. Length simply outstanding, A treacle of deep caramel and caramelized fig, brown sugar syrup and finishing spice – cardamom and nutmeg. Crazy complexity if surely one in the sweeter and softer pantheon of San Giusto Vinsanto. Last tasted February 2024

Vinsanto Giusto 1999 is from 90 per cent malvasia and 10 trebbiano dried on traditional mats then transferred to small oak (caratelli) barrels, with absolutely no botrytis allowed. The selection is extremely careful to avoid the noble rot. Perhaps the most viscous gelée of VinSanto ever put in mouth because 400 g/L of residual sugar will do that in the most concentrated and incredible of ways. The most intense VinSanto you will ever find. Could go three-plus decades further. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted February 2018

Brancaia Tasting

IGTs

Brancaia Rosé 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Made with 100 percent Maremma grown merlot picked earlier (mid-August!) than wine for the reds, keeping the alcohol down with light colour and high acidity. No skin contact, three months on lees for a creamy and sapid Rosato that goes down far too easy. Currants and faint strawberry but just easy and lovely. Summer go to Rosato. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Bianco 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

All sauvignon blanc from Castellina vineyards, picked early (which would be late August) for the purpose of acidity, freshness, brightness and intensity. First Bianco was made in 2011 (though was a very different style at the time) and now the variety is a veritable facsimile of itself. Shows some aging potential for more layers to pop up and out, but not for 10 years. Crunchy and salty enough, not quite startling but surely creating a pop and a buzz on the palate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Tre 2022, Toscana IGT

A blend of all three Brancaia properties, two-thirds from Maremma and one-third Castellina/Radda fruit. The varietal blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aging in tonneaux and concrete. Serious yet uncomplicated, coastal ripeness meeting Classico region acidity for layers, piques, rises and valleys in a red blend. Three layers of savour, gariga and balsamico with three distinct types of spice, some of it very related to wood. This just feels like a perfect match to veal shoulder or Ossobuco, braised in a few cups of Tuscan red wine, fresh tomato, mirepoix and saffron, then topped with Gremolata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

With Barbara Widmer – Brancaia

Brancaia N°2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, DOC Maremma Toscana

Coastal cabernet is a unique thing unto itself and with the streak of salinity running through there is less density and brood than what might otherwise happen in today’s increasingly warming climate. There is an elegance to No. 2 and a beautiful sense of the brushy Mediterranean terroir. Tannic and finishing at dark chocolate with a shot of espresso. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2021, Toscana IGT

The mix is merlot from Radda blended with cabernet sauvignon from Castellina. Five of 15 hectares from Castellina and half (eight of 16) in Radda. All Chianti Classico area fruit and how they layer together is a matter of desire coupled with Barbara Widmer’s experience. True blue merlot with as much structure as any found anywhere this meeting of Tuscan varieties will occur. So different than Bolgheri (and obviously Maremma) but no shock to see. Seriously structured red, fine-grained tannins and intensity self-reflecting inwards and needing up to five years to expand. Very confident wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Just as with sangiovese there is a marked difference between 2020 and 2021, also for merlot and cabernet sauvignon. There may have been a time when ripening (especially the cabernet) was a challenge in terms but think that way no more. Some frost damage at Easter reduced yields but the quality here is exceptional, the flavours developed and true. This will age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Wait for three because the wood is still very much in play. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2020, Toscana IGT

Brancaia Ilatraia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A change to the labelling begins in 2021 now with a mix of the classic label. The 2021 is expressive of more Machia Mediterranea than any Ilatraia that have come before. The brushy savour and local gariga are so prevalent on the aromatics and the palate shows great succulence for this very special red blend. Not only is the label a next generation style and idea but the winemaking also seems to follow this route. Freshness and crispy quality creates something new, vibrant and exciting for what Ilatraia is now and also going to be. Really special vintage, extraordinary and of a potential unlimited. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The repeatable 2021 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon plus (20) merlot does not equivocate as a carbon copy of the 2020, nor should it and acts to remind how Maremma vintages will alter and in turn pay heed to the terroir. This feels like Galestro in the mix, surfacing for scents of the petrichor of rocks and sea and air after a rain. Rich and elegant, flavours swirling of fruit, earth, elements, the sea, mineral and natural sweetness. Finely poised, chiseled, and structured to live a very long, good and proper opus of a life. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020, Maremma Toscana IGT

That blend since 2009 is 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. The three months of “refinement” in concrete began with the 2019 vintage and here 2020 presents a wine of more energy and freshness. Chewy but also scorrevole, gliding and sliding across the palate with this glistening and glycerol style of fruit that says so much about modern day Maremma. A full and concentrated yet never gratuitous Maremma red blend so perfect in pitch, sway and glide as it shows so much grace today, but also to do so for many years going forward. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The change for this 20-plus year-old IGT happened in 2009 when sangiovese was eliminated, petit verdot introduced and cabernet increased. Closed aromas for now, soon to change because 2020 will open much earlier than 2019 and also 2021. The petit verdot is aching to be untethered and understood, the other parts less so but will come soon thereafter. There is great personality and acidity to this 2020, a freshness unexpected and a diversity within a wine that comes in layers, marine waves and complexity. Wow vintage, again unexpected but then again, not really considering Maremma, Brancaia and 2020. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2019, Maremma Toscana IGT

From 2019 the aging process changes, still 18 months in barrel but now followed up with three months in concrete before bottling. “To give the wine time to become a unit” explains Barbara Widmer. The 2019 feels more forward than 2018, maybe because of less stress during the season with ’19 allowing the team to breath after 2018, but there is so much fruit it seems the structure and therefore potential will be lessened. Rich and more wood sensations here, a chocolate expression with ganache painted all over the dark fruit. Tannins are of very good quality though they are softer and silkier than most vintages. A seductive Ilatraia this 2019 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018, Maremma Toscana IGT

Rich vintage with layers and layers upon others of fruit, wood, fruit, wood and more fruit. “We were very afraid because of the heat and drought after 2017,” admits Barbara Widner, which means some negative linger or hangover might have been a part of the work during the ’18 season. But luck was on the Brancaia side with good winter rains, a fine spring and balance throughout the summer, all the way to harvest. “We were super, super lucky and were able to relax.” Concentration, restrained power because freshness and really good potential still lies ahead. Could see this drinking well, like 2004 for example, 20 years forward. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2017, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable acidity from 2017 when you consider the drought and heat that occurred from winter all the way through to harvest. A vintage that could have been a disaster and the blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc seems to fit, no matter the vintage. Not only that but also the switch away from sangiovese was so smart because it could have truly been problematic in 2017. Yes this is ready to drink and yes it’s rich and extracted but once again it needs saying that acidity keeps the dream alive. Lovely work here with 2017 and a perfect Ilatraia to pour at wine dinners all over the world. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2016, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2016 is in the finest shape of any Ilatraia thus far, with great acidity and an energy that means business. Concentration yes but also layers upon layers of natural sweetness, kisses and the caress of what this wine does to nurture the palate. The most suave tannins of them all and a beauty, but also grace about the wine. Yes it it the most experienced and confident wine of the 20 in this vertical. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2015, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2015 is nothing but lovely, simple easy and slowly evolving in pretty much the way you would have expected to be. For winemaker and Widmer the closest comparison would be 2004 but there is such a fruity quality (yes it is younger) and that fruit has done little to advance out of its freshest stage. Not much will happen for another two years. Will drink for a few more years on top of the few imagined five ago. Lasted May 2024

The blend changed in 2009 and here in ’15 it’s cabernet sauvignon (40 per cent), petit verdot (40) and cabernet franc (20). In a way too bad because the ’08 was quite glorious but here in a wholly antithetical way, now there is more brightness and vitality. Not that the barrel regimen is shy in any way but there’s really a lift and not merely because of vintage. Quite balanced and should age well for a few more years. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2014, Maremma Toscana IGT

The most challenging of vintages, with 2015 no bargain, “even for Maremma on the wet side, along with the Suzuki fly in the vineyard.” Required a major amount of selection and in the end Barbara Widmer was quite happy with the result for this blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Meanwhile the energy and persistence are more than fine and ample for the vintage with secondary character is coming on quite slowly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasting 20 years of Ilatraia at Brancaia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2013, Maremma Toscana IGT

A very good vintage for Maremma, considered tops even though the same could not necessarily be said for Chianti Classico. Loving the acidity and chalky liquidity of the 2013, a wine that was managed so well, partly because the vintage was so generous this way, but also because experience with place, blend and style have come to a very good place. Not sure this will have the same stuffing that 2012 is showing but the enjoyment now is really tops. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2012, Maremma Toscana IGT

A full, substantial and concentrated wine from 2012 that clearly shows a progression speaking to what Maremma could and will be able to do with these kinds of blends. Acids and tannins are equal and available, up to the task in support and the harmony here is second to none. Experience and acumen are on display to say that Ilatraia is truly on the correct track. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2011, Maremma Toscana IGT

If 2010 was showing top acidity and energy than 2011 takes these necessary longevity extended factors to another level altogether. What stands out here is the cabernet franc which gets more and more important in a blend with the 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. The length here is outstanding and the vintage still expressive of its longevity and future potential. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2010, Maremma Toscana IGT

The challenge of sangiovese not succeeding on the Maremma coast without irrigation meant a new blend having been initialized in 2009 and still in play through at least 2022. That would be 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc though it could vary by two percent from year to year. The acids in 2010 are remarkable, sweet and crucial to a warm and “big” year such as this. Another 2010 that surprises with its energy and also balance. The maturity into secondary epoch has happened with seamlessness and grace to put 2010 in top light. Great showing. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2009, Maremma Toscana IGT

First vintage of the new blend, kicking out the sangiovese and so now with 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. About half new French wood from two sources, Sylvan and Raimond. A wildly authentic Maremma IGT, aromatics full of the coastal Macchia Mediterranea, the balsamico by the sea, the brushy savour so specific to the Etruscan Coast. Richness and great climatic interest, a feeling of the dry maritime place and wood a big part, but more as an aid and abet, not the dominant driver. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008, Maremma Toscana IGT

Quite an advanced Ilatraia from cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), the last vintage with not only this exact blend, but also sangiovese. Chewy, lots of chocolate, wood very much the dominant factor, the sort of Tuscan red that appeals to so many, especially those who were paying attention to this style back in 2007. Time in the glass helps open up more channels. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). A vintage of high acidity and exceptional structure. Has taken on as much wood as the fruit can handle or at least support. It’s a gathering of big bones with flesh still attached and a long finish. The year and the acumen are clearly on display for a project that seems to have hit its proper stride. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2007, Maremma Toscana IGT

Much more maturity to 2007, especially after tasting the 2006 and yet the blend is just the same as it had been going back to 2002. That would be cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), here quite integrated, with fine acids (if not quite ’05 or ’06 acids) and yet the charm here is really lovely. Very ready to go, please and make the experience a fully enjoyable one. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Ilatraia 2021-2002

Brancaia Ilatraia 2006, Maremma Toscana IGT

The blend beginning in 2002 and culminating in 2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Big vintage and there is an aromatic spicy chalkiness to ’06, owing to ripeness and also high quality tannins. Surely a wine of the times and so very specific to where the wood really dominated and the wine is just now slowing down. Wow – how does this wine now show this way with so much confidence, character and attitude? Amazing really. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2005, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable vibrancy and energy from 2005, warm but balanced vintage as it was and the first to speak of the Brancaia experience for Maremma and what the young vineyards (planted in 1998) were willing to offer and eventually to mix and work with the last plants put in back in 1995. The blend from 2002-2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). More character and ultimate interest from 2005, at least as it goes for the first four vintages of Ilatraia. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2004, Maremma Toscana IGT

Good if unremarkable vintage that “you would consider wanting to have every year,” says Barbara Widmer. You feel the wood on 2004 more than the vintage before and after, rich in chocolate, chewy fruit leather centre and cocoa dustier on the back end. Same blend as with ’02 and ’03, of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10) More evolution here but also length…and harmony. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2003, Maremma Toscana IGT

A warm year and you can smell the liquid smoke and also peppery heat on the nose but honestly the continuance from 2002 and into 2004 is surely there. The acidity is in great shape, sweet and vibrant, the finish forceful with cocoa and liquorice. Super fine and nice for the mouth from an Ilatraia where again the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2002, Maremma Toscana IGT

The initial idea behind Ilatraia was to find a place in Tuscany where you could ripen sangiovese in every and not just a here or there vintage. It was not conceived of an actual business plan back in 1998, definitely not to create a wine like Ilatraia. The first vintage was 2002 and the grapes were so good the decision was made to create this wine. And yet the vintage so maligned made it a challenge for Barbara Widmer to bottle all of the possible 20,000 bottles – and so she made just 10,000. From the start the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), now in 2024 where there is no missing the preserve of freshness. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). Grapes come Maremma and Chianti Classico. A cool, rainy vintage and certainly no picnic for sangiovese and Chianti Classico, but pretty much a challenge in all of Tuscany. With a syrupy chocolate, iodine and balsamic quest having been reached. Has aged quite well and drinks with secondary pride, followed by a sweet finish. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Caparsa Mimma 2021, Toscana IGT

With 30 percent whole bunch for the first time and a much higher production because the vintage was generous this way. Also more oak and fruit, saucy, pulpy and fleshy with the greatest potential of the three Mimma (2019-2021). This will be bottled in two weeks and so it’s still an anteprima but really is a finished wine. This is the be prepared to pair with red meat sangioevse that will clean your palate withe every sip. Fine and grippy tannins will see this live a log life. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2020, Toscana IGT

Mimma is tannic, that much is clear from the first sip. Only the third vintage and mon dieu what a beautiful, fresh, clean and crispy sangovese. Love to sip and willing to lay it down. As you wish but best scenario would be to let this sangiovese have some time in the bottle. The women got is exactly right. Limited production of just 1,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Still a beautiful IGT but wholly different to the 2020, here the second vintage of Mimma made with grapes chosen only by Gianna and Fiamma Cianferoni. Last tasted February 2024

Mimma could have been Chianti Classico, it could be Gran Selezione, dedicated to “all the girls of the area,” says Paolo in all earnest seriousness, hand-picked grapes by Paolo’s wife Gianna and daughter Fiamma. This is the flagship, small production less than 2,000 bottles, grapes from all over the vineyards, picked in the middle of harvest, during the second pass. There is a restrained intensity in this sangiovese and it does indeed make you think. That’s important, It means Gianna and Fiamma get it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Harenae 2022, Colli Della Toscane Centrale IGT

Harenae refers to the sandstone soil known locally as Arenaria but also what is used for terra cotta manufacturing in Impruneta. Fifth vintage for the solo sangiovese artist macerated by the process of “capello sommerso” for 60 days and aged a year in 1000L amphora. Bottled in October of 2023 and Paolo Paffi calls Harenae the “B-Side,” an ulterior way to look at sangiovese that can be a hit though it will always have its quirky, natural or alternative style. A sangiovese that is correctly and properly oxidative, drying, tannic to a great and serious degree. A tapestry woven of woolly texture that will not be denied. It’s freshness is driven by a sanguine character that is so very San Donato in Poggio. It’s just expressed in a very different way.Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Bianco Di Toscana IGT 2022

Drink straight away, fresh and salty, easy white for every day. Vermentino, malvasia and trebbiano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosato Di Toscana IGT 2022

All sangiovese, just a couple of hours run-off juice, simple and salty like the Bianco, but exaggeratedly so. Relates to the high salinity in the soils and for Rosato this is the way to speak for this wide open geographical section of Castellina. Succinct, spot on and uncomplicated glou-glou of a Rosé. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosso Di Toscana IGT 2021

Sangiovese blended with merlot and cabernet sauvignon, proprietary IGT blend that drinks as succinctly and direct as imagination should ask it to. Unadorned, balanced and perfectly designed for that proverbial pasta, pizza and steak house pour by the glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Superiore DOCG 2020

Pure sangiovese rom the area around Poggibonsi, organic, about 10,000 bottles and well made. Bit of vanilla and simple sappy wood flavours, but quite clean and perfectly serviceable. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casaloste Don Vincenzo 2018, Toscana IGT

The signature wine is in ode to Giovanni’s father who helped Casaloste get its start in 1993 and this single two hectare vineyard is purposed grown for this wine alone. The vineyard delivers the most concentrated fruit and the most developed phenolics and it shows in the intensity but also form this warm vintage in the bold and compact layers of Casaloste’s sangovese. A wine first produced in 1995 (two years after the first Casaloste) and one that takes time to develop, piano, piano, lentamente, slowly but surely. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casaloste Inversus 2019, Toscana IGT

From the merlot vineyard facing west planted in 1999, with 10 percent sangiovese. The first (2003) vintage was 50-50, as an experiment to see the relationship between the two before slowly (2005-60/40, 2007-80/20, then in 2009- 90/10) working with more merlot. The 10 percent sangiovese is just the right amount to keep the connection. Inspiration came from Giacomo Tacchis who knew that the grapes had been here not 50 but 200 years ago. Silky with a fine tannic grain running through and the similar beauty shown by Riserva 2019. Lovely, lovely wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Laura Bianchi and Giulia Cecchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2022, Toscana IGT

At this point in the chardonnay’s tenure the percentage of wood is 30 percent which is a number that came into effect back in 2008, down from 50. From a Galestro strewn plot of five hectares facing northwest and still a fresh place and so a saltiness pervades, but the predominant feeling is what Laura Bianchi calls sapidity. That’s because there is a phenolic moment and also mineral grip that’s more than just or perhaps apposite to saltiness. A challenging vintage, very warm (amongst other extreme weather events) and still Monsanto’s 2022 chardonnay is bursting with energy and freshness. Flesh and richness too of course but balance is in full effect. Will this age with the best remains to be seen but today it seems to matter very little. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2005, Toscana IGT

Vigneti Di Monsanto were planted to a special clone of chardonnay that has always seemed so resistant to disease, especially Perenospera and Laura Bianchi tells they’ve only lost a few vines in 40 years. At the time of the 2005 vintage the vines would have been 23 years of age and it’s kind of remarkable how this 18-plus year-old chardonnay emits a vapour trail like older riesling. That’s the phenolic push-pull of salty and sapid, the dichotomy of a Monsanto chardonnay that’s always in play. A fine moment and once again proof of this unique clonal-varietal relationship at work. That said 2005 is fading like a beautiful sunset over the hills of San Gimignano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2018, Toscana IGT

One of the original “Super Tuscans,” second to (San Felice’s) Vigorello, of 100 percent sangiovese that could not be casted as Chianti Classico when that solo performance was not permitted. The Scanni vineyard and its calcareous soils with marine sediments puts the “S” in salty, so much more so than what happens in Monsanto’s Chianti Classico. Notable connection to Giulio Gambelli, of the planting of the Grosso and in how he and Fabrizio Bianchi would meet on a daily basis to discuss wine growing and making. Verdant streak of Poggibonsi-San Donato in Poggio woods, cool and slick, saline and ethereal. Absolutely and unequivocally Sangioveto from its place but also a wine that needs time. More than many and this lengthy 2018 will surprise many by living famously but also brilliantly for nearly two decades. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Cobalto Val Delle Rosa 2021, Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana IGT

Vermentino done up three ways, in steel, wood and also amphora, for freshness, salinity and verticality married to structure and mouthfeel. Brings about a balance of all parts in not just one but several layers and level of elegance for white wines, not just from Maremma and Toscana but anywhere and everywhere. Cobalto is such a white wine, an experience that leaves you satisfied because it touches all the points that matter. Andrea Cecchi’s father was ahead of the curve with his decision to make vineyards in Maremma. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari – Cigliano di Sopra

Cigliano Di Sopra Nuvola Del Cigliano 2022, Toscana IGT

Picked earlier to preserve acidity (5-ish g/L of TA) and says Matteo Vaccari, “we work with the lees for a good resolution. You can make mistakes with sangiovese but not with trebbiano.” Texture is of a terrific natural coarseness while energy improvises, improvise upon and rights the fabric of this white. Last tasted February 2024. A mix of 75 percent trebbiano and (25) malvasia, five days whole bunches for a quick syringe of carbonic and then a short, old wood stay. Comes away with just that quick strike of matchstick and a finish at 11 percent alcohol. Citrus is very lemon, juiced and gelid like curd but what stands out is the dry extract and sweet tannins. This can and will age – there is no doubt. Picked on September 17th, 2023 – a week later than previously – on the 24th. Less than 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

500 Years of Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2018

Prequel: an intimate tale of Renaissance Florence; a description of the history of the Chianti area and the Capponi family up to the purchase of Villa Calcinaia. No not 1244, 1352, 1435 or even a reminiscence for Pier Capponi to 1494 but the toasty, gingered-oxidative style does suggest an older bubble. The name conjures antiquity, Chapon as Capone for Cappone, French influenced, as in Champagne method sparkling wine nearly 50 months on its lees and finishing dry as the Greve valley in a hot season. Orange skin, reduced lemon, lemongrass herbal, a kiss of pace (or “pace”) and a brush with sage success. Spicy, high acid, unrelenting and long. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia AD 1613 Rosso Toscana IGT 2011, Toscana Rosso IGT

The High Renaissance; from the Renaissance to the Grand Duchy, life at the villa and how it was organized. Old, alive and well, one-third each sangiovese (with mammolo and malvasia nera) in ode to the nearly 150 Chianti properties, especially villas owned by the Capponi in the 16th and 17th centuries. Alive more in spirit than corporeal standing because fruit fully waned has given way to frutta di bosco, secco and a creamy chestnut purée. Acids are persistent, the wine hangs loosely but tough enough to keep on keeping on. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Rosso 2006, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

World’s largest voluntary emigration, red gravy and Chianti; the Chianti Classico; the Capponi family plants the first non-promiscuous vineyard in the area. The Bastignano vineyard’s top estate drop comes out six years after conversion to organics and 10 years after the help of Roberto Bandinelli brought Calcinaia into its present state. Only 168 bottles (pus 50 magnums) were produced for this higher pH (3.44) and low alcohol 2006 (12.21 abv) for something that lasts with a continuance of acidity, though the fruit is dried, leathery, liquid cocoa flavoured and marked by a cupboard full of spice. A warm vintage that has evolved quite rapidly, or at least indicative by this bottle. Drink up with haste. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Trebbiano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

The first vintage was 2017, originally aged in French wood but now in casks made by a Rufina craftsman called Carmignana. The mix is 80 percent Tuscan oak and (20) chestnut for trebbiano as a white in many ways acting more like a red. At least in terms of structure and coming form the west bank of the Arbia where a mix of soils bring all the elements to the vines. Harvested in mid October, incredibly and famously so, a new frontier for this area, a wine of acid and texture, notably phenolic, made rich by 10 months in the wood. Delivers that honeysuckle and acacia sensation, partial malolactic creaminess and a finishing note of honey. Good succulence and then length. Did not expect this level of complexity and it just might age for a spell. 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Querciavalle Malvasia Nera Ritmo 2022, Toscana IGT

The current vintage of the malvasia is the one that makes Valeria Losi think of Spring. The earliest roses, also not quite but maybe hinting at violets, but what it brings are flowery sensations, intense and stronger than fruit. This is a matter of eight to ten years ago really getting down and into vinifying malvasia on its own and finding the best of the variety for what it can do alone. It’s a tradition but a familial one and very specific to Losi. Super integrated tannins, non-aggressive and fine. A most unique and special wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Cavalier Tranquillo 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

A simple red, the way Valeria and Riccardo Losi’s grandfather used to make Chianti Classico when white grapes were permitted. Just a spice of white grapes, five percent in this vintage for a light, crunchy, fresh and simple red. Fun Rosso. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Rondò 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Rondò, a kind of music but there happens to be a grape also called this way – but this gives the way of a round leaved foglia tonda and so this is a matter of onomatopoeia. Round and yet forceful, tannic and so implosive, intensely so. Mon dieu. What a massive but drinkable wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2009, Toscana IGT

What do you remember about 2009? “The problem was in August with one very hot week (40-plus degrees) that stopped the plants,” says Luca Martini. Sangiovese however is a very resilient variety. Most thought the wines would have no staying power and they would have been wrong. This shows great freshness and subtle spice, more than amazing for a 15-ish year-old sangiovese. Still showing in the early to middle stages of secondary. Fine acidity, not so high but special. Supportive and always the catalyst to make the fruit sing. A remarkable showing for Percarlo and a wine drinking perfectly right now. Will linger this way for five or more years. “It may not have the potential to develop more complexity, “ says Luca, “but it will stay like this for many more.” Like Barolo, in a way. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Utopie Grand Cru Doublé, Prodotto En Infiascato Dell Azienda Atipica, Morraiole 2008

A collaboration between Luca Martini and Roberto Voerzio, 50-50 Percarlo (sangiovese) and Voerzio Barolo (nebbiolo), more for fun at the time, for shits and ironically serious giggles than anything else. The question of course is why and can these two highly opinionated grapes work well together? Is the sum greater than the parts? Well, no of course but try to think about this in a different way. Only produced twice, in 2008 and 2010, the idea (and label design) by (journalist) Barton Anderson. Luca thought it was oxidized from the beginning so he called Roberto who replied, “you don’t know nebbiolo.” No trust for two years but then it began improving and hit its peak two or three years ago. The nebbiolo is more dominant, especially the style of the tannins and the fruit darker, a dusty example, more typically nebbiolo. Floral note just has to be Percarlo, that and the tufo mineral but still the nebbiolo wins. Maybe 2010 will be the opposite. The idea came from Maurizo Castelli and the sangiovese meets nebbiolo at Volpaia. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

With Bernardo, Corso, Margherita and Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2021, Toscana Centrale IGT

The village of Flacciano, the old Latin name that became Panzano, though there is still a place in the vineyard’s valley that bears the name. The name of the church where the cross was located in that valley before the 18th century. The church where you made a payment of “indulgenza,” so that HE would pardon and gift your place in paradise. The 2021 is a truly generous if still shy Flaccianello of that necessary wish for balance between substantial fruit and structure, high acidity and an overflowing mouthful of pure sangiovese. Seems to taste lighter and hide alcohol, so much more so than it is truly built upon and the age ability is very great. No other sangiovese expresses the luxe and voluptuous capabilities of sangiovese grown on Pietraforte in Panzano like Flaccianello. That’s just a fact and yes it is true that some see this archetype in terms of densities and ponderosity. Consider what matters most. Balance determines outcome and 2021 is right there where it needs to be. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2020, Toscana Centrale IGT

Very little movement from the magnanimous 2020 Flaccianello that made the most of its Pietraforte and there will be no doubt that it will age as well as just about any vintage of the last 40 years. The 2021 is conglomerate sandstone incarnate, of mineral and fruit bonds unbreakable and the fruit to shine through binds tied strictly tight. Last tasted February 2024

The new generation says “Flaccianello is it’s own thing and I don’t want it to become something else.” The words of Bernardo Manetti and yet Dad will say. “It will become Gran Selezione – before I retire.” Them’s promising words for a wine of Pietraforte tannins and from 2020, another season for great concentration. Focused and precise and while tight there is something more immediately beautiful and gratifying about Flaccianello 2020. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

I Fabbri Rosato Castle Ros’ E’ 2023, Toscana IGT

Reserved sort of Rosato, lithely tart, malic and a colourful display that marks a stylistic choice for Susanna Grassi’s first kick at the blush can. The acidity of Lamole is the catalyst and the driver for expression and result. Just perfect with salumi artigianale and hard, salty cheese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Two things about Gratius, not just in this vintage, but two things that really stand out. One is how far from dark and opaque this vintage is when you think about how big and dark the wine should be. Second is how great a nose, or says Morganti, “it has a good nose,” realistic in tone, but the Gratius comment is as understated as anything he will ever say about anything. This is elegance and red fruit sangiovese incarnate, open and floral, so different in a complete way than any or all of the three appellative CCs. A new label design for 2020, busier, with more symbolism and commentary than ever before. Last tasted May 2024

Unlike 2020 Riserva the underbelly of structure, depth and layered acidity combine for aggressiveness and tension. Bigger Gratius in 2020 with potential as high if not higher than that of 2019. A wall of sound, structure and vision. Tasted February 2024

Campione: “With Gratius we work in a different way, aging in barriques and tonneaux,” explains Iacopo Morganti. From 2022 the aging will happen in 15 hL Austrian wood. Big wine from 2020 and that is not written, spoken and pronounced lightly. It is the vintage, hot and heavy, a romance between sangiovese and weather that does not happen so often. A lustfully romantic wine but be patient and allow the friendship and the longevity of the union to develop. Two years in wood and now needing a “cleaning” by way of vegetable gelatine (vegan, 3 g/l per 4hl) and then bottled by the end of the year. Very tannic finish. This should be Gran Selezione. It’s single vineyard and arguably the top wine. Starting with 2020 the artwork changes on the label with each vintage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana Rosso IGT

Today it is worth talking about the difference between Gratius and Chianti Classico (as a combined mix of all three levels) because the freshness and qualities delivered by the field blend varieties create a posit tug between salty and sapid. Gratis 2019 is getting close to resolving the wood and its chalky river of tannin. Big and bountiful, a buzz of energy plugged in and time still the ally. Last tasted February 2024

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2021, Toscana IGT

Not released but already bottled. A bigger Vecchia Vigna, if surely because the old plot is a more than conjunctional mix of 70 percent sangiovese with ciliegiolo, colorinio, caniaolo, malvasia and trebbiano. if you compare to the 2022 barrel sample this ’21 now rests in a quieter, somewhat closed phase. Also a palate texture of silk and glycerol but acids are raging. This demure of aromatics marching alongside and matched up against intelligent if also incredible lift does the kinds of things to the palate that the Grand Selezione simply does not. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

The crunchiest old vines field blend that anyone will ever taste, anywhere such wines are made. Why, well simpy because it is made with sangiovese plus reds and a white grape. So why were white wines planted with reds? To help fix the colours of the red, to add acidity and also to sweeten for table grapes, wrapped in wire nets to keep the animals and birds away. A cultural inclusion and a heritage imperative. This is so young, much like the GS 2020, immovable, powerful and tannic. But there are more fruits involved, especially cherries but also citrus. Tons of citrus. Almost like corbezzolo but also pomegranate. So fascinating! Last tasted February 2024

An apposite vintage to 2018 for this unparalleled field blend of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano though since 1948 much has changed and more sangiovese planted means less interruption or intrusion from the gaggle of other grapes. Just as juicy and gregarious while also vertical and filled with old school tension but also charm. Mid-weight and also alcohol, approximately 14 percent but this is a valley of elevation and woods so freshness just fills the air. This is very special. The 2018 was just a bit loose by comparison. Tannin on the back end suggest waiting two years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

Richer and rounder by a mile as compared to 2021 and 2020 (with 2019 not released because of some Brettanomyces, akin to Soldera to be honest). Crunchy acids and succulence, tart with natural sweet edginess and lots of wood still to resolve. The 2020 and 2021 hide the barrel or better integrate it with finer acumen. Last tasted February 2024

The plot was originally planted in 1948 to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano. Hard to find a field blend like this anywhere. Twenty plus percent is original vines and the rest planted, but also restored in 1982. Emanuele Graetz re-planted 1,000 (sangiovese) plants in 2022. Spends 18 months in older wood and yes, this is what you would expect, though how could you possibly know what to expect? Produces only 6,000 bottles from nearly two hectares and the purity is so real, with verticality, some leathery maturity but much more so a juiciness that determines the true spirit of the wine. Is this ready? No, not quite but man you want to drink it. Clean, honesty and remarkably focused despite the potential for tohu vavohu. Picked on the 24th of September. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2021, Toscana IGT

Merlot 2021 is another beast, tannic as the GS and VV but with a different sort of fruit sweetness and rounder disposition. Red fruit incarnate, a sweet an sour raspberry but a dark one, not the kind from Guatemala. Very Tuscan merlot, no in fact wholly Chianti Classico area merlot. No try again – distinctly Falcole merlot. The place always wins. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2020 2018, Toscana IGT

Merlot softens a bit sooner and while this bottle (at this moment) might feel just a touch mature the rest of the wine’s parts are all in perfect pitch. Lift is weightless and elevated, acidity sweet and touchless, tannins tight and in control. In the end the sand and Galestro rule the fruit to remind of place. A place called Falcole. Last tasted February 2024

Will be called Auré which stands For Maurizio and Loretta, owners of the property who have sold to Emanuele and are responsible for planting the merlot in 1978. Just six rows making 1,200 bottles maximum and one of the few old vines examples gone solo in the Classico area. I mean you have to taste this merlot to believe. Plenty of fruit but red with no tar, char or smokiness. Instead all perfume, picked a week ahead of sangiovese, nothing drying or leathery but just the sweetest textures, aromas and tannins. A great site and yes merlot is special for where it comes. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Jurij Fiore & Figlia Occhiorosso Diforì 2021, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

The word diforì means “drunk” in old Tuscan, as when you would ask someone with red eyes, “are you drunk?” Therefore occhiorosso the grape and its translation as “red eyes.” Jurji Fiore grafted material from Sebastiano Capponi onto American rootstock in a rented vineyard called “Clos de l’Ingénieure” in Lamole surrounded by a short stone wall and the owner is in fact an engineer. The first vintage was 2019 (of only 75 litres) after 18 months aging in a demijohn’s worth. No production from 2020 and though the quantity was high enough to use a few casks, Fiore chose to continue in demijohn for the 2021 simply because it worked so well from that 2019. Nothing else smells or feels like this, so far from sangiovese and yet so very Rosso from inside the Chianti Classico territory. Some might at first feel something sangiovese about it but characteristics differ for this rare grape discovered by Professor Roberto Bandinelli of the University of Florence. Bandinelli was incidentally the consultant for Capponi’s Villa Calcinaia. Wait on this tannic and rustic red soloist for its legs to stretch out and charm to be released. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Lassù A Lamole 2022, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

From the vineyard at Castello di Lamole near to Sono Cosi, down below the road, north facing and surround by wood. Only receives an hour of sun in winter and maybe two or three in summer. Freshest of places and especially for trebbiano. Jurji Fiore considered planting only chardonnay but wanted an Italian variety. Dad suggested famoso from Romagna and so he grafted some, along with chardonnay from Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Lassù is a blend of the three, at the time to fill a tank and now its the recipe. Spice, body and freshness fill the space of this wine, from the three varieties emulsified together. A balanced trilogy from which you don’t feel anything too much, or weight for that matter and the three barrels of new, one and two year old do exactly what’s needed to lift, place and show this Lamole white blend. A bi-phenolic white, at times waxy and herbal, of high level citrus preserve and of an intensity that makes sure to hide the wood. Sara Fiore says it is very dissetante meaning thirst quenching. Fourth vintage and now in a well developed place, style and effect. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia l’Amore Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualità 2021

Second “just for fun” attempt at sparkling wine for Jurji Fiore (and he wasn’t happy with the first) with this having just been disgorged on January 26, 2024. Metodo Classico, blanc de noir, 400 bottles produced. A play on words between Lamole and Amore, sangiovese di Lamole. Great energy, toasted, gingery and all the spice comes out because it’s Pas Dosé, dry as the desert. All the fruit comes from Lamole, a sort of green harvest, in the first week of September more or less. Brilliant second effort. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Concerto Di Fonterutoli 2020, Toscana IGT

The first of the Fonterutoli Super Tuscans born in 1981 of sangiovese with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon in Castellina at 350m of elevation. The vineyard is close to Ser Lapo where clays predominate. The sangiovese sees time in tonneaux while the cabernet sauvignon goes to barriques. Gives some muscle and punch with vanilla and lavender notes and fine tannins. The vintage is big and also lifted, quite so which means time is needed to settle the score. The tannins are austere and commanding at the finish. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Siepi 2021, Toscana IGT

Siepi (first made in 1992) comes from the original vineyard aboard a plateau and 240m, from two parcels, one sangiovese and the other merlot. The latter was planted in the 1980s as an alternative to colorino and to help soften the austerity of the sangiovese at the time. The decision was made then too make a 50-50 blend, “a dream of a perfect wine,” says Francesco Mazzei, “of roundness, colour and style.” The sangiovese dominates today because things have changed with the territory’s climate and soils supporting mature levels of ripeness and finesse from the indigenous grape. The shift is welcomed and applauded because more than ever Siepi represents the identity of the place. Could have been 100 percent merlot 32 years ago “but we could not imagine a wine without sangiovese.” As it must. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Belguardo Vermentino Superiore 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A Tuscan coastal varietal white made from four clones and partially aged on skins for six months in amphora. The genesis is from 2011 though the concept has morphed to create the textural wine that it is today. Two of the clones are Corsican, the other two Sardinian. Fresh, clean and bright with that skin contact salve upon the palate, without weight or residue left behind. Slides and glides easily, extract and tannin are high while seasoning is sea salt and white pepper. If you like chenin blanc and/or grüner veltliner than this should appeal to you. “I think in ten years 50 percent of the wines in the Maremma will be vermentino,” predicts Francesco Mazzei. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingarella is the Greek gypsy daughter with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and colorino. All co-fermented from vines planted in the right zones where sangiovese should not be planted. Humidity zones has much to do with the decisions and so merlot will grow in the cooler locations, the franc in the highest. The young vines make this wine and while it’s very dark berry it’s also liquorice, sweet herbs, drying tannins and variegated richnesses. Violets and dark fruit perfumes but also this vivid quality. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingana 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingana is the Greek gypsy mother and the wine from the older vines, powdery in perfume that really comes through in the duality of cabernets. They, the merlot and the petit verdot make for a Tuscan wolf in Bordeaux knit sheep’s clothing for a blend that is super fresh, tight, and floral. You can really chew this wine equipped of a palate that is like fresh leather but also noted in how juices are squeezed out to be swirled as it is worked by your palate. Great Scott fruit and even finer acidity captured. Super fun wine. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Montevertine Pian Del Ciampolo 2022, Toscana IGT

Mainly sangiovese with bits of canaiolo and colorino, first made in 1991 which was incidentally a cold and rainy season that followed the great 1990. A vintage when Martino Manetti’s father Sergio found himself in position possessive of second, third and fourth level quality grapes. Why not make something to drink? Everyone loved this wine right away. Made here and there but persistent demand determined producing it every year starting in the late 90s. Essentially the pressed wine from la prima Le Pergole Torte and seconda Montevertine. Great freshness from Pian del Ciampolo, as in the “plains of Gianpolo,” as per Dante’s Divine Comedy where Ciampolo appears in Canto XXII of the Inferno. Not much more than a resourseful modicum of structure and truthfully while this could be the equivalent of a Chianti Classico Annata the style and effect are purely Radda in Chianti Montevertine. Ripe acidity, slight Macigno chalkiness and this feeling that the plants and grapes have and are in a 15 year midst in their adjustment to climate change. You would never know this was a wine that came from a hot vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine 2021, Toscana IGT

A warm but balanced vintage, harvest in the first week of October, “the right time for us,” says Martino Manetti. From the vineyards planted in 1984 onwards, infusing fruit born in blocks from 1997, 2000-2008, 2012 and 2014. No barriques, only Slavonian cask and always made in the same way, going back to the oenological days of Giulio Gambelli and through the more current work of Paolo Salvi. Manetti is the first to admit that oenology is not his strongest suit and so a consultant has always been integral to getting the most out of these wines. The 2021 is a profound matter of subtlety and strength, with restraint and power being the hallmarks of Montvertine, but maybe here a bit more fruit, florals and near full-bodied punch as compared to some other vintages. Singular because, well Montevertine but this is truly a matter of the place above all else. There is a Macigno streak running through that speaks in terms defined as Radda and the acidity is expressly Raddese but again, the particularity of the 2021 is Montevertine. A wine made to tell a story of where it was conceived and also where it will go. Could imagine tasting a 2001 and/or a 2011 today and the wines would reveal as variations of a replicable performative theme. Still, with respect to this wine, it would be best to wait two years before seeing the true (2021) vintage light. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Farfaro is the yellow flower that appears in the vineyards to mark the advent of Spring. Blends 80 percent trebbiano toscano and (20) malvasia chianti. “For me the white grapes are the last that I pick” explains Giacomo Nardi, simply because that’s how long they take to mature. From 270m on clay with a mineral stone called lignite, used for fire, a.k.a flint stone, as opposed to brown coal. Honeyed and fresh, dry and so very spring incarnate. You could close your eyes and imagine that you are drinking chenin blanc. Drink the you know what out of this clean white. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri is an ode to Giacomo’s grandparents, 60 percent sangiovese with (40) merlot, aged in older barriques and tonneaux. The gastronomic red, restaurant ready, fresh and the kind of wine to fill the mouth with soft waves of clean fruit. A fine example in a sea of Tuscan IGTs where consumers get very lost. Baccheri is easy to find. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Serrico 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

“This dream is possible because of what my father has done.” Though in general Giacomo may not love merlot, he makes an exception and put this together in a way that rises above the 100 percent new barrique aged soft chocolate examples. This ages 24 months in used barriques, followed by a selection of the top of the top. First vintage was 2017, followed by 2019 and this being the third. Elegant and rich, acids full and supportive, length outstanding. One of Chianti Classico’s top IGTs. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2020, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tasted side by side with the ethereal 2019 and so 2020 by comparison is bigger, broader and more muscular. No shock there when you consider that when a vintage like this comes along there will be darker fruit and more of everything each time it happens. This is a factor of climate change that is not always considered, that the goalposts are moving and while sangiovese’s reaction is up and down, the median point continues to shift forward. Digressions aside this ’20 simply needs more time. The bones are so solid, upright and of a density that any wine of hopeful structure would die for. Sturdy like a mature “quercia grande,” immovable and secure. Less connection to the past but still the DNA is strong – it’s just that it shows this in terms of tannic austerity and foundation. Rich and intense, wood more noticeable and patience required. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2019, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Not only are Herman De Bode & Fanny Huygen restoring the borgo of Podere Capaccia, they are also doing their part to resurrect the past. Querciagrande comes from sangiovese vines planted in 2007 and when winemaker Alyson Morgan arrived in 2012 she wanted those vines to produce this wine. To rekindle the spirit within the place and the wines that were famous for their particularity. This vintage in particular reminds of a kind of red fruit from another era. There is a soft-spoken and simple charm about its ways, along with a generosity, kind spirit and most of all a nurturing for our palates. Very Capaccia yet Querciagrande is ushered into today’s world while maintaining a link to the past. Top vintage for what is surely the goal. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Oriana 2020, Toscana IGT

Varietal vermentino, not usual for the Classico area yet here sense is made in San Donato in Poggio with winds from the Ligurian Sea blowing in, unhindered, no barriers in the way. First made in 1998, grafted over and then restarted in 2014. Not a coastal vermentino but one particular to the soil of Chianti Classico. Silken, glycerin mouthfeel, ripe, almost akin to viognier. The wine’s label by artist Antonio Manzi pays tribute to Bruno Rossini’s wife. Spicy finish, visceral and textural, again so reminiscent of viognier and without the salinity of the sea. Sapidity indeed. Approx. 2,500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and May 2024

Poggio Al Sole Sangiovese Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Speaking for his father Johannes Davaz it is Valentino who explains that there was no Bianco to pour for guests and also friends at the winery. Nor was there a Bianco from sangiovese available anywhere nearby. Davaz rented a chardonnay vineyard “for practice” and so white wine has been made since 2016. In 2019 the first vintage of sangiovese bianco was produced, “in purrezza.” Valentino notes that if you harvest too early, like it’s Rosé, nothing good will come. “What we have learned,” says Valentino, “is that anything less than 12.5 percent alcohol will result in boring wine. You need to find the sweet spot.” Johannes has now spent 10 years trying to understand and figure out the moving target. Practice makes (this current level) of perfect and so just 4.5-5.5 months of lees aging puts the white sangiovese in a world occupied by the likes of (top level Umbrian) trebbiano spoletino, super pure, salty and satisfying. Substantial palate presence and most of all authentic. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2023

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Querciabella Camartina 2020, Toscana IGT

A blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (30) sangiovese, also fruit coming off of estate vines upon the Ruffoli hill. Yes sangiovese is involved but a warm and bold vintage delivers full on, rich and throttled cabernet sauvignon treated in such a restrained and elastically stretched away. That said the youth and immovability put this is linear, vertical yet sleek and suave way. There can be little doubt that this 2020 will have an ability to age with the best of the Camartina so being in any kind of a hurry would be a damn shame. Shy now, two to three years away from just beginning to open and bloom, four to six from what will begin to be its early realities. There is some brotherly fighting happening now but these are varietal siblings that will always get along. They will have each others’ backs. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Palafreno 2020, Toscana IGT

A reminder that this 100 percent merlot became this way after the disasters of 2002, 2003 and 2004. Had been a blend before those nasty vintages. Merlot rarely shows lift and this 2020 has it, almost sangiovese attitude in a way, but obviously a Ruffoli thing. Is this succinctly Ruffoli or merlot? Has to be both but this vintage sways in a terroir direction, neither good nor bad but simply what it is. Calcareously chalky, grippy by sandstone mineral and climate directing a child’s every move. Palafreno 2020 does what needs. The highest production of the last 15 years which means a whopping 6,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Batàr 2021, Toscana IGT

The blend is 50-50 pinot bianco and chardonnay though 2021 lends a bit of a percentage towards the former. Low quantity vintage though it can never be forgotten that an abandoned vineyard in the early days delivered the original 100 percent pinot bianco. Was called “Bâtard Pinot” back in 1988. In 1992 chardonnay was added and the pinot was dropped. Then the Bâtard became a French faux-pas but the Milanese love child continued and finally the D was dropped. Still the homage to Bourgogne always hides under the covers. Skins are truly important for this ’21 and textures are everything. Are these components fine-tuned and refined to a level that really exults the wine Querciabella is trying to make? The answer is yes, in another way than before, though this current (already to market) vintage is so young it’s a crime to even discuss. Balance is spot on, subtlety and soft spoken voice sending positive messages and vibes, but ultimately it needs to be revisited in two or three years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Montegrossi Geremia 2018, Toscana IGT

A mix of merlot and (20 percent) cabernet sauvignon that may not be a wine of appellative origin but make no mistake. This shows Monti in Chianti as well as most though with an added richness and textural weave reminding us that this is in fact not sangiovese but an ulterior mix of the vinous and the opulent. Success with other varieties that grow very well in this southern part of Gaiole given acidity and freshness as a factor of the land littered with Alberese soils. The mix of wood is 10 percent new, (30) second passage, (50) third and finally (10) fourth. Spice and spiciness, from cinnamon through nutmeg and then the accumulation of finest expatriate grape tannins. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Pietraforte 2015, Toscana IGT

A blend but the cabernet sauvignon is 98 percent, with (2) petit verdot. Says Dario Faccin, “for us considered one of the great vintages. “The vineyard is 42 years of age as of the 2015 vintage, the Alberello training now changed to Guyot back in 2013. Philosophy the same, berries selected manually beginning in late October and into early November. The softest extraction at low temperatures for 48 hours to fix essential colour, followed by 25-26 days of maceration and then malolactic in new French barriques. These barrels move on to be used for Riserva (Chianti Classico) in their second year. These are the most refined and softest tannins in Tuscan cabernet sauvignon, so much so that you can drink this now, though in fact it is already more than eight years old. It being a current release tells so much about how perfectly timed the decisions have been, all the way through. Adds Faccin, “history is really important and the wine is history, not the conversation.” Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Piluka Pinot Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Now the fifth harvest and while the vineyard has changed, especially with respect to maturation, though the work in the cellar remains the same. Dario Faccin has planted two more hectares and by 2026 there should be 25,000 bottles in production. Grapes are kept at zero degree temperature for a day, fermentation is cloudy and the wine in old oak is held for a year. Acidity is upwards and above 6.5 g/L, high and mighty for a Tuscan white wine. Creamy palate, acidity that pops and most important truly ripe fruit. If you like top shelf Sancerre, Chablis Premier Cru and chenin blanc from old vines in the Western Cape then this pinot blanc will be something special for you. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Sangiovese Mello 700 2021, Toscana IGT

Single site sangiovese grown at 700m on the western slope of Monte Luco, less than two hundred metres lower than Monte San Michele which at 893m is the highest peak of the Monti del Chianti. Luco is a place that just 10 years ago nobody would consider trying to ripen sangiovese and yet here we are. This has to be the highest planting in the Chianti Classico territory though IGT is the labelling because that elevation is above the parameters, though truth be told this was always going to be an IGT. For the time being. Welcome to the future, though Mello 700 is a costly endeavour, a project that requires the implementation of heroic agriculture and 50 euro ex-cellar pricing is the requiem. Aromas are incredible for this second vintage. Perfumes act the part of Lamole and/or Radda but the real factor is mountain air. Meaning freshness and stylistically speaking you might imagine something like nerello mascalese from Guardiola on Etna Nord. This location is one of ice and snow, not to mention hail but vines here actually sleep through winter. They awaken and by harvest time ripeness happens, though at least for now a verdant streak will always run through the sangiovese. A truly beautiful wine this is and my, what a discovery. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Vas Oro 2019, Toscana IGT

The cabernet franc was planted approximately 15 years ago and this marks the second year as a varietal wine, hopefully to stay this way for a good long time. That said with only 3,000 bottles produced it’s spoken for, but so worth pouring to speak for what the grape can do from Castelnuovo vineyards. It really tastes like cabernet franc with notable chocolate and pyrazine then back again. Muscular franc, toned and handsome. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

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WineAlign

Eyes on Bolgheri’s future

Mar19

Bolgheri

The allure of the Etruscan Coast, its accessible inland plateau, emerald wine-growing hills and what is affectionately referred to as La Macchia Mediterranea have attracted great investment into Bolgheri. The region’s most famous reds are known to be big, luxe, bold and structured, most commonly as blends of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. In many cases these Bordelais treatises are accented with additions of syrah, petit verdot and on rare 21st century occasions also by sangiovese. The most endemic of Tuscan grapes predates the expatriate varieties with its own parochial, rich and important history. Vermentino now makes up 10 percent of all plantings and that number is sure to increase in earnest because of the need for climate adaptation and a demand to satisfy changing consumer tastes.

Foraging for Porcino, Castagneto Carducci

Just a shade under 1,000 hectares planted to vines in Bolgheri produce nearly 500,00 hectolitres or more than 550,000 cases annually. The DOC for Bianco and Rosé wines were written into Italian law in 1983, followed by Rosso in 1994 as Bolgheri Rosso DOC and Bolgheri Superiore DOC. At the same time Sassicaia was awarded its own sub-zone, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC and then partitioned as a separate DOC in 2013. The Consorzio di Tutela Bolgheri e Bolgheri Sassicaia was founded in 1995 and is responsible for the protection of DOC Bolgheri and DOC Bolgheri wines. No other key Italian wine consortium is as compact and teams up as harmoniously with 73 members strong whose vineyards represent 99 percent of the territory’s overall hectarage.

Finding Puppole (or Mazze di Tamburo) in Castagneto Carducci

Bolgheri’s demarcated growing area is concurrent with the political boundaries of the Municipality of Castagneto Carducci in the province of Livorno, with the exception of the stretch of coastline west of Via Ulvino Aurelia. The area’s construct is akin to a natural amphitheater with the Colline Metalifere to the east that gradually slopes downwards towards the coastline so typical of the Ligurian sea’s platform push. Here the cause and effect is two-fold; Flysch (an alternating sequence of sedimentary limestones, sandstones, and shales, the beds of which are thin, regular, and alternating) is this frazione‘s ace up the sleeve. That and the Galestro (schisty clay with friable white, grey, blue and charcoal rocks) typical of the greater territory are the soils with which all of these producers have in their vineyards to some varying degree.

La Macchia Mediterranea at Castagneto Carducci

Thickset forests cover the hillsides and anyone who has had designs on foraging for autumn mushrooms or simply chosen to have a walk will concur with having experienced the woven thicket that must be stealthily navigated to make any real progress through the dense brush. This veritable Tuscan jungle serves a great and refreshing purpose, that is to maintain and protect a complex ecosystem and breathe great life into vines (and olive trees) sharing valuable space and resources. The tiered hillsides slowly descend towards the central arena marked by a flat if ever so gently sloping terrain (in a way reminiscent of Mendoza) where most of the vineyards grow. The distance from vine to water is anywhere from six to 13 kilometres as the crow flies, where the Tyrrhenian sea is dominated by the Tuscan archipelago and Corsica visible at a vanishing point upon the horizon.

Elena Brachini – Tenuta San Guido

Tenuta San Guido, its founder Marchesi Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, Marchesi Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta and current Consorzio Vice-President (as well as Primum Familiae Vini President) Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta will always reside at the heart of Bolgheri. The Grand Vin Sassicaia was first released on the market with the 1968 vintage and today continues to act as benchmark for the region’s wines. The Consorzio President is Guado al Tasso’s Albiera Antinori of Marchesi Antinori and the other Vice-President is Le Macchiole’s Cinzia Merli. In 2023 Godello visited Bolgheri on two occasions. The first in late May, to gregarious Grattamacco and grand Tenuta Argentiera. The second in early November, to the Bolgheri unicorn estate of Podere Il Castellaccio, movimentata Le Macchiole, veramente un azienda enorme Tenuta San Guido and again to Grattamacco. These are the 32 wines tasted on the occasion of those two excursions.

The view from Grattamacco

Grattamacco

The organically certified Grattamacco estate originally founded in 1977 on that Maquis shrub-land as Bolgheri’s second winery became part of the Colle Massari Group in 2002. Siblings Maria Iris and Claudio Tipa are Grupo Colle Massari, proprietors of four Tuscan properties; Montalcino’s Poggio di Sotto (2011) and Tenuta San Giorgio (2017), along with Montecucco’s Castello Colle Massari (1998) and Bolgheri’s Grattamacco with its perfect view of the Castello di Castiglioncello. Bolgheri’s modern wine production may be less than 100 years old but its rise has been swift, its potential a gold mine and Grattamacco has marked its presence from the earliest days.

Hills above Grattamacco

The name Grattamacco or Gratta Macca translates as “scratched iron.” When Colle Massari purchased 12 new hectares at Casa Vecchia it was sangiovese that was planted straight away, while a full cellar renovation followed 11 years later, in 2013. The endemic Tuscan grape variety sangiovese is well-suited to the estate’s unique Galestro and Flysch soils with their alternating sequences of sedimentary limestones, sandstones and shales. That orogenic belt’s design now helps to breathe light and elegance into the region’s full-bodied Bordeaux blends made with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. Grattamacco’s are thankfully not the most powerful of Bolgheri’s wines but they are its truly sapid outliers, indelibly stamped with the sangiovese, a sense of place and no compromise to acidity.

Tasting room at Grattamacco

Grattamacco also constructs Bolgheri’s unicorn wine, made from vermentino off of the first such local vines planted in 1986 and this white wine has not only changed the landscape for the grape in Tuscany’s coastal areas, it promises to be its future. Vermentino ages in new Chassagne Burgundy barriques and with the rapidly changing climate there will be more wineries choosing to eschew the likes of problematic merlot for vineyard space dedicated to the virtues of vermentino.

Davide Torchio at Grattamacco

With 29 hectares in production Grattamacco’s labels comprise four wines: Vermentino Bolgheri DOC, Bolgheri Rosso DOC, L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC and Bolgheri Superiore DOC. The cellar is marked by stunning stained glass designed by Michael Zyw. Famed oenologist Luca Marrone and winemaker Davide Torchio’s usage of a peristaltic pump system, the Piedmontese technique of cappello sommerso and natural fermentations are what give the reds their advantage and silken textures. The sangiovese is the tie that binds, the catalyst to raise the perception of acidity in Bolgheri reds of grace, charm and greatness.

In the Grattamacco Cellar

Grattamacco Vermentino Bolgheri DOC 2021

A reminder that this is vermentino from the oldest such vines in Bolgheri. Storied vineyards blessed by a terroir of “argilla bianca.” The chalk in the soils is crucial to the personality of this wine, lending en elemental salinity because magnesium is much more prevalent than sodium. In fact the lees creaminess and alcohol are what effect the balance and without their inflations this might be too “salty” a vermentino. Meanwhile this 2021 always seems to be in its right place. Last tasted October 2023

Good rains in February and March, dry all the way through and then some rains in the middle of September to delay harvest, for the better, to achieve a great ripeness level for vermentino. Such fruit changes the landscape for the grape in Bolgheri and the wood (one new and seven used barrels, all from Chassagne) lends just a popping or piquing of spice on the back of the palate. An exotic or tropical and cloudy fermentation transforms into the cleanest and fleshiest fruit gathering with essential structure to see the best years in fact lay ahead. That being three of four years forward. But drink it now. Why not and what could go wrong? Wait 30 minutes and it may just smell like roasted rosemary potatoes. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023

Enoteca Tognoni, Bolgheri

Grattamacco Vermentino Bolgheri DOC 2013

If you happen to pop a bottle of the historic 2013 vermentino from Bolgheri’s original varietal wine do not be bemused by a little bit of mustiness. Open the closet and window to let the two airs mix before passing judgement. Perhaps a moment of cacchi (persimmon) like botrytis marks the next entry but what is most prevalent is the white clay-limestone-schist smoulder of fruit and soil that conspire with 10 years gone by to affix this vermentino into a lovely situation. Acidity fixed is acidity persistent. This is not a perfect wine but it does open a portal into Bolgheri vermentino looking retrospectively in ways no other can offer. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2022

Bolgheri Rosso is first and foremost a vineyard selection, mainly from the youngest vineyards but also a first pass/pick out of the older blocks. There may also be some vats destined for Superiore that are shifted to the Rosso. A challenging follow-up to what was a very good 2021 but 2022 is up to the task, especially because the cabernet franc thrived in this vintage and it does not end up in the Superiore. This franc comes from vineyards new and old, suitable for the bigger wine but with respect to style and tradition it only ends up here. Even at just 25 percent the franc speaks loud and clear. The merlot makes up (30) with cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese rounding out the rest. The fact remains that this ’22 is a seriously structured Rosso, more than that ’21 and this tells us how much high quality fruit is diverted here, not to mention the increasing maturity of those younger vines. Succulent and top tier acidity puts this in high steading. It stands to be counted and counts out time. Will drink with distinction for five to seven years easy. 120,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023

Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2021

The fruit first Bolgheri Rosso is 30 each cabernet sauvignon and merlot, (25) cabernet franc, (10) sangiovese and (five) petit verdot. Could age longer than when it is released (after one year in September) but cellar master Davide wishes it could rest another year. So very “Mediterranean” and in the early stages the red fruit is strong, overpowering the spices and pushing the merlot too up front. With age the franc especially and its aromatics will emerge, as they are just about imposing their will right now. The sangiovese is the tie that binds, the catalyst to raise the perception of acidity and make it all happen. The cabernet sauvignon will linger and last above all else, sending this “Classico” through the years, with its sweet tannins in tow. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2023

Grattamacco L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2021

Same blend percentages as 2020, of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (30) franc and so youthful to make the 2021 seems like it’s just as big a vintage but we just know the balance tells us otherwise. Freshness on steroids, rich in cherry fruit depth mixed with the Flysch earth and dried herbs weaponizing the berry liqueur. Savoury, serious and needing to be re-tasted next fall to really gain an understanding of aspects more than predicated on potential. Meanwhile these tannins are fine-grained, chained, intentional and propositional. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted at Prowein, March 2024

Luca Marrone – Grattamacco

Grattamacco L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020

Two cabernets involved, head-pruned, two hectares of 16 year-old vines in a single vineyard. Alberello training is unique and essential for the future of the sauvignon (70 percent) and franc, field picked and co-fermented, built on acid structure with a liquidity spiced by black pepper and what just feels like Sardegnan mirto. Beautiful if just ever so slightly rustic field blend. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Grattamacco L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2013

Impossibly near perfect shape for this field blend’s amelioration 10 years forward from 2013 to 2023 with Grattamacco’s cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Belive the idea that secondary character is only a recently transacted transition, acidity has not been suppressed and tannins have only sweetened. The succulence and continued speculation serve notice that no supplication is necessary to see the best in this Rosso, also because energy is never compromised, not for a moment. This bottle is in excellent shape. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Mushrooms of Castagneto Carducci

Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020

The “skinny” vintage, surely not as fleshy as the bookending years on either side but also the sneaky one, possibly destined to outlive them all. Very Mediterranean aromatics, something akin to garrigue but cleaner and less vegetal. Both crunch and chew, a combination of before and after, ying and yang. All right and no wrong in 2020, tight and closed now but given 20 minutes the wine will open up, better yet taste it the next day, even without sealing the wine overnight. Tannic structure exceeds the promise of Rosso and also Alberello though there is no compromise to acidity. Truly sapid. Made with 65 percent cabernet sauvignon and near equal parts between sangiovese and merlot. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2013

L’Alberello 2013 shows energy and exuberance but what of Superiore? Two feet in the soil that’s what but not only is this Rosso as fresh as the day it was conceived, it’s also mature and wise, experienced even beyond its 10 years from vintage. If L’Alberello is a teenager than Superiore is a young adult, both perfect compliment to one another. Tasted side by each they both work wonders with the fresh porcini of the current vintage. Drink 2023-2028. Last tasted November 2023

So fortuitous and surely fascinating to travel back ten years for a look at the Rosso Superiore. Where does it stand in terms of freshness, verticality and longevity? This is the wine simply referred to as “Grattamacco,” spokesperson and flagship, spinal label to tell the story of this place and the ColleMassari dedication. Unfortunately there is some TCA and so the tannins are brittle and dry. 120,000 bottles produced. Tasted October 2023

With Cokie Ponikvar and Jeremy Bonia – Agriristoro La Cesarina, Castagneto Carducci

Grattamacco L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020

No doubt time is the catalyst towards explaining more and more subtleties, idiosyncrasies and eccentricities of an Alberello-trained field blend like this creative and singular red by Grattamacco. Really showing its chalky structured personality six months later and this shows how it’s working through its adolescence. Six further months should see that chalkiness liquify and create the most stunning textured example of Bolgheri Superiore. When all is said and done, peccato di gioventu” Rushing belongs to humans, but nature will always follow its own pace. Last tasted October 2023

Agriristoro La Cesarina, Castagneto Carducci

Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020

Was released in April 2023, just ahead of the last tasting and now six months forward there is no movement, literally not an iota. What is noticed is the presence of a certain saltiness, predicated on the vineyard where magnesium is stronger than sodium and so the Grattamacco elemental salinity energizes without obstacle. For oenologist Luca Marrone this vintage sides more to cool then warm and you can’t rush its progress. As predicted the tannins and overall architecture of the Superiore is the most formidable of all the Grattamacco wines, not to mention the one wound taut with great and measurable tension. You can cut it with a knife. Be patient, as a taster that is not a luxury afforded, but as a buyer it is a must. Last tasted October 2023

The “skinny” vintage, surely not as fleshy as the bookending years on either side but also the sneaky one, possibly destined to outlive them all. Very Mediterranean aromatics, something akin to garrigue but cleaner and less vegetal. Both crunch and chew, a combination of before and after, ying and yang. All right and no wrong in 2020, tight and closed now but given 20 minutes the wine will open up, better yet taste it the next day, even without sealing the wine overnight. Tannic structure exceeds the promise of Rosso and also Alberello though there is no compromise to acidity. Truly sapid. Made with 65 percent cabernet sauvignon and near equal parts between (15) sangiovese and (20) merlot. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Alessandro Scappini – Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio

Attention Ontario sommeliers and agents. Speaking directly to you. These beautiful wines from Podere Il Castellaccio are the freshest in Bolgheri, most made from endemic varieties; sangiovese, pugnitello and foglia tonda. Top echelon work from Alessando and Enrica Scappini. In the Bolgheri area their’s is a vineyard with forty years of history and only they are protecting varieties that have disappeared from local winemaking. Their work concentrates on salvaging these ancient varieties because they are inextricably linked to the tradition of Tuscan wine so specific to Bolgheri.

Forest above Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Ardiglione Vermentino 2022, Costa Toscana IGT

A coastal vermentino that is a blend of three components, skin maceration, some aging time in wood and also amphora. Scents of the not far away sea and the green hills combine for a sweetly herbal, subtly phenolic and in the end salty vermentino. The vineyards are closer to the sea than the red vines and this second vintage of Castellaccio’s white is a win. There is also this white balsamic and pine nut character that is so very local. True identity of place and that is so crucial to the success of this kind of wine. Yet another reason to opine on how vermentino will be such an important part of Bolgheri’s future. The wood and the clay refining will see this age for a few extra years to become something even more interesting later on. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Dinostro, Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Dinostro Sangiovese 2021, Toscana IGT

Alessandro Scappini’s grandfather grew endemic varieties here in Bolgheri where thaye have been cultivated since the 1960s. They may not jive with the last forty years of what Bolgheri has concentrated upon but Scappini considers them the heritage of this place. They are sangiovese, pugnitello and foliotonda. These are the original peasant grapes of the poderi and their DNA has been preserved to plant more vines. There is no doubt that a Bolgheri red like this is expressive of more identity and heritage than what the Bordeaux grapes can even fathom to deliver. There just feels to be a connection with the wines of Roberto Stucchi (Badia a Coltibuono) because this feels like sangiovese growing with forests all around, green in the ways of flora, but not ripeness. There is a rustic notion here but again it’s more of a country one and this sangiovese is indeed elegant. There is Gaiole and there is Bolgheri. The affinity is kind of uncanny don’t you think? The difference is the Mediterranean (or Ligurian) feeling gained, of resinous green herbs, evergreen and the sea. This is the tightest of all Il Castellaccio’s wines, high in acidity, seriously tannic though they are neither brooding nor baritone. Not austere neither but they are serious and they are profound. That said the fruit is like red lightning, a strike of intensity from that which is tart and also über fresh. This captures the essence of Castagneto Carducci. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Valénte – Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Valenté Vitigni Autoctoni 2019, Toscana IGT

As particular a red blend as there is in all of Bolgheri, first because it’s not a DOC wine and also not just any IGT. It is a blend of the three endemic local varieties grown by Alessandro’s grandfather on the estate since the 1960s. They are sangiovese, pugnitello and foliotonda, the middle of which is connected to and revered with equal level at San Felice in Castelnuovo Berardenga. In total the average age of all three sets of vines is 50 years. The ferments see two weeks of maceration, raising the glycerin levels before the wine ages in large Slavonian cask and concrete. Acids are in control and this glaringly logical, local blend may be from 2019 but its persistent freshness is undeniable. Truly important work for Bolgheri. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Somatico – Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Somatico Pugnitello 2021, Toscana IGT

Truly rare varietal pugnitello with just 300 or so hectares of vineyard planted in all of Italy. The vines are 50-plus years of age, Guyot trained and growing in mineral soils of Galestro outcroppings coming from schist. Deep hue and such a spicy red (though truly purple) Bolgheri example. Chalky though silken in its liquidity and and tannic presence that’s so unlike sangiovese, in fact there’s something more akin to cabernet sauvignon or franc in this wine. This is spezzatura by way of pugnitello, something that would likely be planned and crafted but the result just feels effortless and so very real. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Orio – Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Orio 2022, Bolgheri DOC

Moving away from autochthonous varieties and now into the denominational wines with the three varietal blend of 60 percent cabernet franc, (30) merlot and (10) syrah. Vines are 10-20 years of age and aging happens over 12 months in second passage, 500L tonneaux. There is a temptation to automatically think that the French grapes will take away from the place and the resulting wine to be so different than those made from endemic varieties. But you can’t take the place out of any of Alessandro Scappini’s reds and so the evergreen, brushy herbs, balsamic and sea air are all in this wine. So is extra richness and peppery piques or bites with tobacco moments and chalky ground espresso on the finish. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Il Castellacio – Podere Il Castellacio

Podere Il Castellaccio Il Castellaccio 2021, Bolgheri DOC

The Superiore is a two-part harmonic bend of mostly cabernet franc plus pugnitello from the Alberello-trained vines up on the hill of a terroir known as “cisto di galestro di scheletro. Sees a year in both barriques but also clay amphora which puts this in a whole other Bolgheri light. The French wood certainly lends a richness, depth and spice cupboard set of elements but the texture accedes a new manifest destiny because of the clay. The biggest though not what should be looked at as a baddest red wine, on the contrary the freshness is captured as with all of Il Castellaccio’s wines. The length on this wine is exceptional, exceeding all of the others and so it is deserving of the flagship calling. Profundtà e lunghezza. These are the elements that set this apart. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Old vines at Le Macchiole

Le Macchiole

There have been opportunities in Ontario to taste the Bolgheri wines of Le Macchiole over the years, but now there is greater understanding after this first visit with agronomist Elia Campolmi, winemaker Luca Rettondini and proprietor Cinzia Merli. Decades of commitment and the development of 10 vineyard plots around the denomination see the fruition of their work today best explained as modestly profound. The estate plots travel from the sea to the hills of Castagneto Carducci at 220m of elevation on 32-33 total hectares.

Cinzia Merli – Le Macchiole

Puntoni Vineyard was planted in 1994 and Vignone in 1999, both to cabernet franc, syrah and merlot, Casanuovo went in the ground in 1998, to cabernet franc and syrah; Casanuovo 2 in 2009 to cabernet franc, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc; Casanuovo 3 in 2013 with cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Sommi Vineyard was planted in 2015 with all four red varieties. Casavecchia and Ulvino are more recent plantations, back in 2016, the first only with syrah, the second to cabernet franc, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. Livrone Vineyard dates to 2020, only to cabernet franc. Finally it was Quercione (syrah and cabernet franc), Lamentano (syrah and cabernet franc) and Vallone (merlot) back in 2021.

Elio Campolmi – Le Macchiole

An optical sorter was introduced in 2023 and the cement vats date to 2003. Some Cappello Sommerso (Piedmontese-style submerged cap) is used in some of the fermentations. Pours included a mini vertical of Paleo (cabernet franc), Scrio (syrah), Messorio (merlot) and Bolgheri Rosso. Fascinating to witness the transformation from argile stratificata and salty sea breezes into these wines of tension and emotion.

Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2021

What Cinzia Merli introduces as “our Bolgheri blend, a wine that is the “Classico” for the denomination.” Blends the four red varieties of Le Macchiole’s 32-33 hectares of vineyards, led by 55 percent merlot, then (15-20 each) cabernet franc and sauvignon, rounded out with (10) syrah. One of the more suave and refined Bolgheri Rosso from anywhere in the denomination with an aromatic tug between fresh roses and balsamico. Silky and yet for what feels like the first time is it’s perfume, structure and freshness that do everything to make mouthfeel the lesser of this wine’s many sensations. Plenty of emotion however and while this is a very drinkable wine it’s so much more than that. The syrah grows on the hill where it receives even more marine saltiness on its skins then it would were it planted on the flats. And so it acts as both salt and pepper seasoning the merlot and cabernets. Everything is elevated and captured in this vintage, culminating in a thorough and captivating Rosso. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Paleo – Le Macchiole

La Macchiole Paleo 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Bottled quite recently, around six weeks ago so this is kept in mind. That said the cabernet franc (especially) of Le Macchiole may be the most aromatic of all in Bolgheri so there is little shock this youthful 2021 is right there from the beginning. Yes it needs some air and agitation but it’s also 2021, an impressively structured vintage that dresses and acts as linear and vertical as any of the recent past. The tannins are all fruit and no wood, as are the spices and seasonings. Fruit is a hyperbole of itself, a double entendre of 2020 multiplied upon itself to entertain as 2021. Exotic and salty, depth of entangled clay out of which friable rock sears into memory and cuts through like a diamond for a red Bolgheri wine indelibly stamped from place. The potential here is palpable, to create feelings and elicit emotions but in the end the salinity really incites tension and tang. Wow vintage of Paleo. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

La Cantina – Le Macchiole

La Macchiole Paleo 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Paleo takes up where the Bolgheri Rosso leaves off and exaggerates perfume, not quite times 10 but surely to a few squared degrees. The red to purple fruits, fresh roses and balsamic are hyperbolized and made beautiful to great end. Add in elements reminiscent of pencil lead, graphite and dried wild herbs but here the 100 percent cabernet franc is what Cinzia Merli calls movimentata. Paleo was once blended with cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese but is today a solo act from the various cabernet franc plots collectively acting varietally intense if also obvious as it gets. The key is to find equilibrium In the wine’s density and 2020 could not have been the easiest to decipher. Warm vintage overall, especially in concentrated times if thankfully ideal through harvest. The wood is generous and important but it is already melted, integrating and at this stage acting as seasoning for welcoming cabernet franc. Will be ready for the commercial market in March of 2024. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

La Macchiole Paleo 2013, Toscana Rosso IGT

Nearing 10 years of age and showing remarkable freshness from a wine that at the time was 100 percent cabernet franc, dating back to 2001. There is zero surprise to find this wealth of generous aromas because, well this is a wine made by the aromatic genius that is Le Macchiole. Very special in that varietal is not only captured but exulted, made the star and preserved for decades so that wines live long and stay true to their nature. A vintage of heat but also really long maturation, of mature tannins and wood usage in 2013 that was of a heavier toast and much more involved. Everything began to change beginning with the 2015 vintage but the truth is the kind of toast and sweetness of oak back then did in fact serve this wine well so that it can show the way it does today. He who would complain for a lack of freshness would not be paying attention to detail. Interestingly this vintage finished at 15 percent alcohol while the 2020 and 2021 fall in at 14, give or take. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Cabernet Franc – Le Macchiole

Le Macchiole Scrio 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Once again the wines from 2020 were a challenge but as long as the work was put in every day from vineyard through cellar it would become the friend of any willing and committed producer. This is Le Macchiole’s strength, with a team from field to table that worked so bloody hard to make are freshness and aromatic beauty stand front and centre in the wines. The exotic perfume of Scrio screams from the glass, of cinnamon, nutmeg out of 100 percent syrah that is the micro of micro productions. It’s syrah of Bolgheri so anything but easy though the salty skins from sea breezes blowing across the hills where it his cultivated make for a most uniquely seasoned varietal wine. The terroir is argilla stratificata out of which Galestro from schist manifests at the surface of the soils. Imparts a richness cut by slaty mineral in the syrah. Most curious and unlike any that you might think you already know. The rotundone is there but it comes with a twist. Will be ready for the commercial market in March of 2024. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Vineyard map – Le Macchiole

La Macchiole Messorio 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Combine the aromatics of Bolgheri Rosso, Paleo and Scrio to arrive at Messorio because the fresh roses, balsamic and exotic spicing are all here in this 2020. But there’s more, of fresh herbs and dried hillside brush before you realized you’ve been nosing this wine for 10 minutes without having yet taken a sip. Then the linearity meeting richness of flavours, palate attack and texture all add up to the most accumulation of any wine inLe Macchiole’s profile. Graced by and soaks up more new wood than any of the other wines yet receives it all so well, integrates the barrel into the fruit of the wine’s labour and exacts structure like no other. An impressively composed, compressed, accumulated, vertical and intense 100 percent merlot that delivers grape, place and handling with substantial distinction. Finishes with a return of fruit freshness to reinforce the idea about a Messorio that will travel far and long. Will be ready for the commercial market in March of 2024. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta Argentiera

The name Tenuta Argentiera derives from ancient Etruscan silver mines and the peninsula’s first metallurgy. The wine estate is a project that began in 2000 by the Fratini brothers at the southern end of the Castagneto Carducci area on the site of the ancient Donoratico Estate. Formerly the summer home of the notable Serristori family of Florence, the estate has been owned by Stanislaus Turnauer since 2015. The southwest oriented vineyards are 23 years old, on 84 hectares of a total 150 of the estate. Soils are generally Flysch and calcareous marine in origin. Today there are six base wines, down from what was once 40, namely because the team have qualified the cabernets and merlot into their cru sections. The syrah goes into 30,000 bottles of Rosé. Federico Zileri is Chief Executive Officer, Leonardo Raspini is General Manager, Massimo Basile is Sales & Marketing Director, Fabio Fedeli is Direttore Commerciale Italia and Nicolò Carrar is the Winemaker.

The vineyards of Tenuta Argentiera

Tenuta Argentiera Poggio Ai Ginepri 2021, Toscana IGT

Amazing freshness for a warm place, 40 percent each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, (15) cabernet franc and (5) petit verdot. Rich and herbal cool, not mint but certainly other locally scented verdancy. Fruit just seems to come away sweet and succulent. Tannins are never austere or even dry, the wine is all about these varietal aromas, even their green parts. Great vintage. A wine that just works on every level for so many markets. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Argentiera Villa Donodoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2021

Tasted side by side with Ai Ginepri, here with 45 percent cabernet sauvignon, 40 merlot and 15 split between cabernet franc and petit verdot. From a much more complex soil and merlot grows with the aid of water retention that also serves to exte the ripening season. The greens are still here but they should be and must be celebrated. They come from the geological flysch system of these old soils. So much texture and a cupboard of spice but also a structure that will begin to really open in two, better still three years time. The transparency of red fruit is a direct result the vintage and while it is young. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2023

La Cantina, Tenuta Argentiera

Tenuta Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020

A “vintage with two souls,” first drought and not so much heat but then quick ripening in August, especially at the lower elevation growing merlot. September rains arrived and changed the ripening of cabernet sauvignon. Very ripe merlot and “classic” pyrazine cabernet sauvignon. Reds and greens and back again. But the delay of the cabernet made for elastic stretched tannins and combined with the merlot resulted in a true marriage of disparate parts. This is the sneaky one. Drinking well already and will so for 20 more years. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2017

Such a challenging vintage and yet Bolgheri found a way to succeed, as seen especially in this Superiore. Humidity was maintained in the soils despite no rain and yes, more than impressive freshness has been preserved. Acidity is not the best ever but it does perform solid yeoman works to extend the life and energy in this blend of 60 cabernet sauvignon, (35) merlot and (5) cabernet franc. A most floral vintage which is exciting and enticing. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2015

A celebrated vintage in Tuscany and most certainly Bolgheri while 2015 ages gracefully with the greens still intact. ripe but not too ripe and more than ample acidity. The blend is 55 merlot, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (10) cabernet franc. The palate is where the acidity and piquancy really attack the back of the sides of the mouth. Great ambling length. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Argentiera Ventaglio, Toscana IGT 2019

Amazingly aromatic varietal cabernet franc. Spice cupboard, liquorice, tar, roses and so much black tea and also olive. Herbal cool, some Amaro, the cabernet franc so specific to the place and the respect it so righteously deserves. No need to compare to anything Right Bank because the Franc does not act like this anywhere else but it is duly suited to these calcareous-flysch soils. Drastic and dramatic wine, vivid and full of energy, pulse and even some hypnotics. Great, great vintage. Wait one more year. 4,000 bottles are made from just one hectare. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2023

Barrels at Tenuta San Guido

Tenuta San Guido

The estate is 250 hectares in total, veramente un azienda enorme, with approximately 100 hectares under vine. A place famous not only for Sassiccaia but also Ciocco e Duna, le cicogne (storks) di Bolgheri. Each of the vineyards are cultivated specifically for the three estate wines, Le Difese, Guidalberto and Sassiccaia. Sangiovese is only used in Difese with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot for Guidalberto and Sassiccaia. The history is of two Antinori marrying two Incise (cousins) and this is why the two families have been linked for so long, especially for international distribution of their wines. Niccolò Antinori was at the centre of the transformation to major business activities.

Carlo Paoli – Tenuta San Guido

Each vineyard is a small parcel completely surrounded by forests and so harvest takes a long time, up to four weeks, usually moving from east to west, from the sea to the hills. Sassicaia is transferred back and forth between barrels for a settling of the sediments, to clean the wines and thus to eliminate filtration before bottling. This system went into effect withy the opening of the new cellar in 2008. Carlo Paoli, Tenuta San Guido’s General Manager and Production Manager has been with the estate since 2009.

La Difese, Guidalberto and Sassicaia

Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2022, Castagneto Carducci, Toscana IGT

The modernist blend of Tenuta San Guido and while it is considered by many as an IGT of thirds, the truth is 50 percent or more sangiovese qualifies Le Difese as its own entity, also because the vineyards that supply the fruit are cultivated specifically for this purpose alone. Carlo Paoli certifies 2022 as a vintage of excellent and harmony, no matter the heat because growing conditions, especially at harvest time were more than ideal. The ability to pick grapes over a month long period identified parcels and secured acidity to make ripe if balanced wines. There is an energy and a fervour to Difese, a spry aspect and a lovely swirl of liqueur present and fortuitous as Bolgheri in the wine. The season’s warmth puts the sangiovese in blood orange territory and overall there is a serious juicy quality to the drinkability of ’22. Also the sensation of black olive and just that right amount of structure to carry this forward for an appropriate four to six years. Approximately 150,000 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2021, Toscana IGT

No movement to speak of in fact the wine has gone a step or two backwards as compared to 70-odd days ago. At this time the knowledge of great structure and verticality are kept in mind to explain the grip, impenetrability and drying skins at the finish. Walk away and don’t come back for at least a year and preferably more. Last tasted February 2024

Hard not to see 2021 as a unique vintage and while Guidalberto may be viewed more as a second wine to Sassicaia then Le Difese is a third, there is a distinct feeling that it stands alone, especially out of a vintage like 2021. A season of warmth but after staggered starts before arriving at a fine conclusion. A vintage quite proper for Bordeaux varieties within a context that requires both ripeness and acidity to be captured. Those acids are very present in a Bolgheri (as IGT) wine that wears the local balsamic notes on its sleeve. That and a gentle swarthiness but also a sense of structure that is pliable, extendable and elastic so that the vision of this wine could very well be that of a decade and a half. Guidalberto Gherardesca planted the cypress trees on the estate, which incidentally stands alone and away from Sassicaia, so even more reason to see this as a separate entity for Tenuta San Guido. Not forgotten is the constantly engaging perfume of Guidalberto, yet another reason to imagine the many possibilities and transformations that lay ahead. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted November 2023 in Toronto and November 2024 at Tenuta San Guido in Bolgheri.

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2020, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC

The cabernet sauvignon dominated Sassicaia is more demure and reserved in 2020, or at least that’s how it acts at this near three year mark post vintage. Less perfumed at this stage than the 2019 was showing when assessed in September of 2022 but there are shadows and meanings hidden in the chiaroscuro that will surely begin to emerge with the first warm days and weeks of 2024. Still there is great structure and architecture in the 2020 Sassicaia from its 27th vintage as a Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC to set this grand vin up for decades of slow, sure and incremental evolution. Succulence is noted in both the fruit and then of course the acids to remind us that Sassicaia is always the most elegant, secure and divined example of Bolgheri. It’s presence as an own DOC entity is not taken lightly nor is there any gratuity, certainly not from the 2020. As a vintage it seems 2020 was misunderstood early but as time goes by the excellence comes into focus one wine at a time. The advantage of making an example from something like Sassicaia explains so much and there will be a great future, likely past 2040 for this grand dame of Bolgheri. If Guidalberto 2021 is any indication, that Sassicaia will be one for the epochs. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted November 2023

Good to go!

godello

Bolgheri

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WineAlign

A September to remember in Bordeaux

Jan22

Château Montrose

As you will see over the coming 20,000 words in this report, the trip summarized is not your average, every other week excursion to another wine region in Europe. No, this lengthy article will in fact describe a personal opus, an epic, once in a lifetime journey to Bordeaux. A five-day fantasy traipsing through the clay and gravels on both banks of the Gironde Estuary to come away fed, nurtured, nourished and experienced in the history, breadth and depth of the place. May as well just list the properties straight away because the itinerary is what need be considered legendary. In Pauillac – Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Pichon Baron, Château Haut-Batailley, Château Lynch Bages and Château Pontet-Canet. Saint-Julien – Château Léoville Poyferré and Château Lagrange. Saint-Estèphe – Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Phélan Ségur and Château Montrose. Margaux – Château Margaux and Château Brane-Cantenac. Pessac Léognan – Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Château Haut-Bailly. Saint-Émilion – Château Bellefont-Belcier (Vignobles K), Château Cheval Blanc, Château Pavie-MacQuin, Château La Confession and Château Troplong Mondot. Pomerol – Château Clinet and Château La Croix St. Georges. Visits, meals and great wines shared with two prominent négo0ciants – Nathaniel Johnston & Fils and Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus. A sum total of 22 properties with more than 50 estates’ wines poured and tasted.

Just a boy and a 1966 Haut-Bailly

Selective histories and size matters

We begin with the large, rich and famous. With the 1924 vintage, a then 21 year-old Baron Phillip de Rothschild launched the program of having each bottle of Château Mouton Rothschild’s label designed by a different (and very famous) artist. The estate is comprised of 700 hectares in Pauillac, also in ownership of 40 with Château Clerc-Milon. At Mouton 80 percent is cabernet sauvignon, with (16) merlot and (4) cabernet franc. Mouton Cadet was created in the 1940s. Château Phélan Ségur was originally owned by and Irishman and purchased in 2018 by a wealthy Belgian who made his fortune in containers (Europe and Africa). There are 114 hectares total, 40 of vines split up into four plots, two up to the furthest northern edge of Saint-Estèphe and two further south nearer to the Gironde estuary. Incidentally no relation to Calon-Ségur. The newest ownership at Château Montrose dates to 2006, by Martin and Olivier Bouygues who came from Telecomm and poured significant investment into the property.

The view from Château Pichon Baron

Château Batailley is at the southern border of Pauillac, across the road from Lynch-Bages, abutting Saint-Julien and it is the tower that marks the entry into the appellation. It was acquired by the Cazes family in 2017 with Jean-Charles now at the head. The name Batailley comes from the fight during the 100 years war between the French and the English. The chateau was separated in 1942 and the western part became Batailley, nearly 100 years after the 1855 classification. Was owned by the Bourie family and is now the only classified (5th) growth that became one before being split in two. Speaking of classifications, no discussion considers a paradox as great as that of Château Haut-Brion and Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion. One is classified while the other is not and yet the latter sits on a property occupied by the former but is arguably one of the finest terroirs in the entirety of Bordeaux. One only has to taste the last five vintages of that Grand Vin to wonder how it can possibly not be qualified as a classified growth. The modern turning point for it’s current status and affairs can be traced back to 2010 when its was purchased by Patrick Pitcher. Another Péssacc-Léognan estate is Château Haut-Bailly with vines dating back to the 1400s and today’s über modern facility was built by the Wilmer family, bankers from Buffalo (New York) who purchased the estate 20 years ago. The property is home to some of the first vines planted after Phylloxera, some now as old as 120 years.

Louis Gaspard and Godello at Cos d’Estournel

Bordeaux’s total plantings are approximately 100,000 hectares and in Saint-Émilion the average vineyard holding is between five and six. That makes Vignoble K’s Château Bellefont-Belcier seem large at 23. Still that size is just half of Château Quintus with their 45 hectares – that puts it in large company. In Saint-Émilion the land decides the classification, not the estate which is the rule in the Médoc and across appellations on the Left Bank. If you add land in Saint-Émilion you have to make a different label and vinify in a separate cellar. Vietnamese-born Peter Kwok has started at Château Haut-Brisson, moved through Pomerol and Castillon and now owns Château Bellefont-Belcier along with Château Tour-Christopher. Each of the estates are a small unit, independent and self-functioning.

The village of Saint-Émilion

It was December 15, 1998 when the Château Cheval-Blanc estate was sold to LVMH Chairman and Belgian Businessman Bernard Jean Étienne Arnault. He is the founder, chairman and CEO of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury goods company. The land has likely been producing wine since before the 100 Years War, possibly as early as the 1400s. It had been purchased and designated as a chateau in 1832, which in terms of historical Bordeaux is relatively late. The owner was ahead of his time having designed drainage systems from the 1830s to the 1850s to deal with the heavy clays. The name Château Pavie Macquin comes from a combination of the place and the legend Albert Macquin, an agricultural engineer who popularized grafted plants which would save the vineyard after it was ravaged by phylloxera. Pavie Macquin was classified as the first Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion. “If you underscored the classification,” says current generation proprietor Cyrille Thienpont. “then the explanation was bad.” The last classification brought together Pavie Macquin and Pavie Macquin-Decesse, not just Pavie Macquin and Pavie. Château Troplong-Mondot is owned by an insurance company called SCOR.

Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux President Ronan Laborde of Château Clinet

From the 11th until just a century ago the L’Eglise de Pomerol was located right at the site where Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux President Ronan Laborde’s Château Clinet sits today. Pomerol’s size is 815 hectares shared between 120 producers and bottlers though some do sell in bulk to Bordeaux wine merchants. You can’t age or bottle wines outside of Pomerol and agents must also buy finished wines to label it as such. The word Clinet comes from the name of a seeded fruit that existed in the time of Christ, as did vines in the area. Most production is much smaller as compared to Saint-Émilion and the Médoc, the exception being Pétrus at 35,000-40,000 bottles and prices are highest in the appellation. The two complimentary varieties of merlot and cabernet franc dominate though Clinet farms 25 percent of their vines to cabernet sauvignon. Vines planted in 1950 that survived the (-20 degrees celsius) 1956 February freeze are still in production, in top shape, give small berries and are rarely susceptible to mildew. Laborde notes a true salty-mineral quality in Clinet’s cabernet sauvignon.

With Alice Leuret and Guillaume Pouthier, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion

Heterogenous terroirs, varietal adjustments and climate events

Using the name Bordeaux and the word elevation in the same sentence may seem like an oxymoron but all things being relative the search for subtleties begins with the unseen changes in landscapes. A “butte” is as small a mountain as you might find and yet still proffer up an indication of elevation. “Cos” is a small hill from Old French, though no Google search (without a qualifier) will tell you that. The name Cos (with the S pronounced) refers to a “hill of pebbles” in Gascon dialect and the name Cos d’Estournel was given in 1810 by Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel. At Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion seven of the 15 “city” hectares are defined as a “Cos.” In the 16th century this was the site of Château Haut-Brion. At the time the owner gifted the property to the order of the Carmelites Blanches. There may or may not have already been a “Cos” then. In Pauillac soils are arid, of sand and gravels and just a small amount of limestone and clay at the 26m high “mountain of Pauillac.”

Château Pichon Baron’s Pauillac terroir includes clay and also chalk beneath which makes for two-way conversions of both water retention and drainage. Château Phélan Ségur’s northern blocks are truly gravelly overtop heavy clay subsoils, more clay than those closer to the Gironde. The clays are really helping with the challenge of extreme heat days (18 of them over 40 in the summer of 2023) by maintaining water and freshness. At Château Tronquoy the soils are really gravelly with larger stones like Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a truly unique terroir for Saint-Estèphe. More clay composition at the surface in the Tronqouy soils as opposed to sister property Montrose (and also Dame de Montrose) where that clay lays lower, below the sand and gravels. Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s city vines do not cool down like the 35 hectares found in the countryside though they are are still within the limits of Pessac-Léognan. The Bordeaux city vineyards are generally three degrees warmer, especially at night and the Grand Vin is produced from these vines. The blue clay here is special, much less “sticky” than Pauillac and integral to the ripening and development of the cabernet franc. Horses are used in the vineyards to reduce the amount of tilling, tractor and machinery disruption.

Saint-Julien terroir at Château Lagrange

Château Montrose is 85 hectares planted closest to the estuary of vines that in terms of vigour are truly self-regulating. No bunch thinning is necessary, especially for highly concentrated cabernet sauvignon. This part of Saint-Estèphe on average runs a week to 10 days behind for harvest times. There are 40 hectares, 21 under vine, 19 still to be planted, 65/35 cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Studies in dug hole pits has convinced the team to add a small portion of petit verdot, to make up two percent of the overall mix. Redevelopment has been ongoing seen 2017 though the Bourie has already reconstructed the winery. Château Haut-Batailley in Pauillac started covering between rows with cover crop between in 2020.

Godello in Saint-Émilion

In the area of the Saint-Émilion chateaus occupied by Quintus, Pavie and Ausone the soils are mainly clay-loam with limestone near or on top of the surface. At Château Bellefont-Belcier terraces have been constructed because of the higher limestone content. The vineyards of Château Cheval Blanc are a result of how the tertiary period left behind a salty limestone plateau which extends from Cognac through the Right Blank along the Gironde Estuary to central France. The retreating river left behind gravels that were dragged over each other and so Cheval Blanc is a heterogenous terroir that is a mix of sand, clays and gravels. CFO and commercial director Arnaud de Laforcade talks about “the big principle” when he says “we accept and celebrate the variability between plots to create the character of Cheval Blanc.” The cabernet franc and malbec planted at Cheval Blanc was a Right and Left Bank mix but that changed after Phylloxera with the switch to merlot. Much of Pomerol, including the soils of Château Clinet are clay with gravels layered on top. It is well known that merlot is the child of cabernet franc but only recently another genetic parent was (re)discovered through a variety called Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, named after the birds that arrived first to eat mature Bordeaux grapes.

Harvest at Château Latour

Arnaud de Laforcade pontificates about cultivational philosophy. “We need to rely on ourselves and so all propagating and massal selection is done on the estate – kept to the estate.” A block of 1930 merlot is still in production and in fact any block that makes it into the Grand Vin can’t be uprooted. Of great importance is soil health. “Even if vines are based on poor soils, they shouldn’t be dead soils.” Cover crops are key, to maintain harmony, despite the competition. Clover’s penetrating roots are good for aeration and reduce the need for tilling. White radish for the bees, re-seeded every Spring. Only a shallow till is done in the Fall but not under the vines for fear of increasing humidity and inciting mildew. Trees are planted on rootstocks and pruned in line with the vines. All these tools are current ones and could very well updated in 30 years, possibly less. Bottom line is monoculture is no longer acceptable. Organics and biodynamics are encouraged but the reality is that no solutions are 100 percent perfect. “People who say they will be mildew free because of all these methods are dreamers,” is de Laforcade’s conclusion.

Cabernet Sauvignon in the gravels of the Médoc

Different soils and sub-soils within the 45 hectares at Quintus lead to an agricultural approach that is almost “Bourguignons,” meaning a rank and file of estate, village and cru. Same applies to Château Pavie and Château Ausone. No wonder the hills and areas occupied by these estates are sometimes (quietly) referred to as the “Burgundy of Saint-Émilion.” Château Pavie Macquin’s terraced vineyards planted to 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc are marked by a three-toned mix of clays; white at the top, mixed in the middle and brown down below. Pavie Macquin faces the village of Saint-Émilion with 15 hectares at the border which means the clays are laid overtop limestone. At the top the clay measures 14 cm and at the bottom the clay layers with limestone and “tender” limestone. A breezy place which means less mildew and disease pressure but also later harvests compared to the plateau of Saint-Émilion.

The Saint-Émilion vineyards of Château Troplong Mondot

Chief Executive Officer of Château Troplong-Mondot Aymeric de Gironde introduces the non-eroded soil. “The real specificity is in the clay,” he explains. “It has been measured in square meters per gram.” An original clay, created at the same time as the rocks. The plateau is neo-clay, created by the disintegration of the limestone. Troplong-Mondot is original clay, not sin, a perfect pocket like Pétrus and so much more dense than that of their immediate neighbours. Its so dense it’s hard as rock. “At Troplong-Mondot natural density comes for free,” laughs de Gironde but he’s dead serious. “Here we don’t have to do much at all, if anything we have to be careful not to extract too much power.” The soils remind of Macigno del Chianti or better yet Formazione di Silano so prevalent in creating structured Chianti Classico sangiovese. “We’re now the first to harvest in the area,” says Aymeric. “We cultivate the differences of parcels and build the wines by blending.” The mix is 85 percent merlot, (13) cabernet sauvignon and (2) petit verdot. He has been with TM for six years. “Tasting 1998 and 2004 were great indicators to me for what to do in the vineyard.” On the property of Château Phélan Ségur a weather warning system is in place and the estate heads up a Saint-Estèphe program to release weather balloons in the face of hail storms. Hard not to be reminded of Angelo Gaja who more than 20 years ago was sending helicopters equipped with weather altering technology into the skies above Barbaresco. In the Médoc hailstorms are increasingly problematic and when they strike they can be devastating to a season’s crops.

Changing fermentations, elévage and varietal designs

Château Mouton Rothschild’s approach is unique because alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are completed simultaneously over three weeks. Aging is one year in barriques, followed by 50 percent new beyond. There were 92 different block vinifications during the 2022 harvest at Château Montrose. Malolactic begins directly after the alcoholic fermentation – they are contiguous, not simultaneous. At Château Les Carmes Haut Brion the new chapter is written through winemaker Guillaume Pouthier’s infusion methods whereby whole berries and whole bunches are layered mille-feuille style for a new kind of submerged cap way of keeping juice at the top and the most gentle way of breaking down skins without any crush. At Château Cheval Blanc the prefernce is to do all fermentations in concrete vats, remove the skins at the initial alcoholic fermentation and not to handle things simultaneously. The cellar master’s job is to make everything “fine,” not more.

Harvest team at Latour

Château Phélan Ségur’s yeast program pays homage to its bacterial history – isolated yeasts strains are propagated from l’Enclos, the heart of the vineyard and historical Phélan plot, then used to ferment only that plot, in that vintage. “The initial results were exceptional , tells Managing Director Veronique Dausse, “and so in the subsequent vintage it was done with other plots in the north.” After three years of comparing to commercial yeasts the realization was had that vintage does not effect outcomes and that indigenous yeasts create more consistent typicity, so long as a cocktail of yeasts are employed from plot to plot, as well as no cross contamination between fermentations. Some merlot in the south have been added this year to be part of the experimentation.

Lunch at Pichon Baron

At Château Margaux less and less merlot is being used and so new plantings are mostly cabernet sauvignon but increasingly also cabernet franc. Not yet certified but fully organic practices have been followed since 2019. Depending on the vintage Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s new oak usage is 70-80 percent. Château Bellefont-Belcier’s technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny insists on cellar conditions that are clean, clean, clean and low, low, low fermentation temperatures. The wine was classified in 2006, ferments are partially pressed, free-run juice is key, concrete tanks stabilize the wines and they use just 30 percent new oak. Troplong-Mondot’s Aymeric de Gironde uses cold macerations and one-third pumpovers through the course of a day.

Please don’t call them “Second Wines”

“Calling them second wines is a mistake,” insists Château Haut-Brion’s Guillaume Alexandre Marx, “and it always has been.” All one has to do is consider the farming. “It’s the same as it is for the Grand Vin. Several “other” wines were tasted at chateaus along both the Left and Right Banks and while terms like second and third were conjured, the nomenclature has long since drifted away from these kinds of notions. Today they encompass labels like Château Lacoste Borie, Duluc De Branaire Ducru, Le Dragon De Quintus, Les Forts de Latour, Les Tourelles de Longueville, Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Pauillac, Verso, Echo de Lynch Bages Famille J M Cazes, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, Pagus De Lagrange, Les Fleurs du Lac, La Dame de Château Montrose, Margaux de Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton, Baron de Brane Henri Lurton, Le “C” des Carmes Haut-Brion, Haut Bailly II, “G” d’Estournel, “Lions de Sudiuraut,” Les Tours de Belcier, Mondot de Troplong Mondot, Le Petit and Indie de Monbadon. There are dozens more but these are but the examples tasted in the last year.

Château La Croix St. Georges

Older vintages and 150 tasting notes

The collective theme of the last 15 months seems to have focused on maturing, yet far from tiring Bordeaux vintages. Many pours have come from the 2014, 2012 and 2011 vintages. Less than heralded ones it has oft been noted though today the three are drinking beautifully. Hard not to be privy to the notion that the chateaus pouring these wines are in that requiem period of needing to sell some cases sooner rather than later, but the other truth is when wines are showing well they open more doors more than close them. Skeptics would say the opposite but truth is truth and the ’11s and ‘14s especially are in a special place. The terroir is truly there. How do we know? Freshness and transparency. Is that not exactly what to expect from a high quality wine of Bordeaux? At a Domaines Clarence Dillon tasting in Toronto last year Guillaume Alexandre Marx chose 2012 because “it is a vintage I love and it has now entered into it’s drinking window.” Coincidentally speaking the vintage is also one that equates quality with quantity, meaning they are sure to impress and there is still some product to be sold. Other vintages are either not ready, are much scarcer or just don’t meet the quality. Old Bordeaux are the sort to hover right there with rhythmic, syncopated and metronomic pace. Wines that maintain composure with aromatic perfume and the sweet development of acidity while tannins are essentially and fully resolved.

Looking out over Pauillac from Château Lynch-Bages

In September 2023 the vintages being poured were mainly 2019 and 2018, though a few 2021s and 2020s as well, while the overall range was greater than what is generally offered out of most regions worldwide. The 18’s are Bordeaux of a warm vintage (though ’19 and ’20 took it further) but there is just something about the wines on the 9’s, especially on the Left Bank. Lush, enveloping productions, in Pauillac so luxuriant they gloss over aesthetic differences between varieties and seamlessly ties them together. For Saint-Julien the wines are chewy, both the wood and also tannin are grand, though also sweet, enticing and overall quite amenable. As for Saint-Éstephe well the wood is big, grip is formidable and tannins remain mired in the gravel and clay, not nearly wanting to release the fruit for accessible play. But the concentration and precision are wholly impressive and the impression left is serious indeed. Not a complicated year but the wines are stiff, know how important this life is and what it will be. A top ranking vintage for Bordeaux as a rule but for Saint-Estèphe the glory is real. For Péssac-Léognan a crazy concentrated and also spicy vintage, of savour, county character, salt and pepper seasoning. Beautiful rusticity, fine chalky tannins and length down a long gravel road.

In Saint-Émilion there is this mouthful of fruit freshness, sharp and pointed acidity that culminates in major tannin adding up to seriously proper tension. The cabernet franc leads, fills, expands and creates what can only be described as an explosion upon the palate. When merlot hits right it transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019s but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. As for Pomerol, more variegation but every layer is deeper and richer than the last. If 2018, 2020 and 2021 build and build then 2019 is compact, not dense but composed of many films upon films and there is this pressed leathery fruit aspect indicated by the aromatic wealth. People will swoon and die for this kind of luxe Pomerol and the tannins are dutiful, carrying the weight and extending the life of 2019 for what will be many years to come. All this to say stock up on 2019. The following are 150 reviews for wines tasted in Bordeaux back in September 2023, along with three previous 2022 visits from producers and négociants in Toronto.

Pauillac

Château d’Armailhac 2017, AC Pauillac

A blend of 67 cabernet sauvignon with (22) merlot, (7) cabernet franc and (4) petit verdot. Warm vintage and dry for the most part but June saw some rain so Bordeaux fared quite well as compared to many parts of Europe. Early flowering and equally early harvest meant concentrated and quick to ripen grapes. You can feel some desiccation but freshness still finds a way to persist. As per 2017 the acids are sharp, pointed and intense. Not a dusty Pauillac per se but one that castes a long shadow with high tones. Ready to drink, requiring food that seeks acidity and good for a few years yet. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Clerc Milon 2016, AC Pauillac

Both winter and spring were wet but then the faucets turned off, all the way to harvest and through 2017. More than half the annual rainfall came in that spring and yet the vintage is looked at overall as being a dry one. The mix in 2016 is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, (29) merlot, (13) cabernet franc, (2) petit verdot and (1) carmenère. The merlot grows on cooler ground near the Gironde and it falls into line between the dominant sauvignon and the cumulative support of the herbal, pyrazine, tannic and toasty group. No doubt this is about as rich, luxe and substantial as it gets for Clerc Milon. Berries and espresso coagulate and coexist in a vacuum of sweet acidity and also tannin. Still tight and dropping hints of grip, power and force, yet to dissolve or dissipate, not even in the slightest. Big and stylish. Is it a C-M for the ages? Quite possibly, allegedly and ostensibly. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Mouton Rothschild 2015, AC Pauillac

No doubt an excellent vintage, even or especially by Château Mouton Rothschild standards with the all important balance between heat units, water and elongation for even ripening and ultimately balance. The 2015 is cabernet sauvignon dominant at 82 percent with (16) merlot and (2) cabernet franc. Just a pup this full, concentrated and mighty Pauillac but also so elastic, pliable, supple and surely generous. The acids are in utter control, an encapsulation of a vintage that wants to give but knows better and so it plays hard to get and we exercise patience. This is the Bordeaux equivalence of the Italian croccante, as a crisp, almost crunchy and markedly stony red. The soil tells the true story and then there is this matter of power matched equally by restraint for harmony of Mouton style. Never precious, always elegant, classic and stylish, great beauty incarnate without trying to impress, not even for a moment. Will age ever so slowly over three decades and likely live for another three or more, above and

Château Latour 2018, AC Pauillac

No fruit from Latour’s L’Enclos are used for the second and this third wine, only the more recently acquired plots in other parts of Pauillac. In this vintage a higher amount (12 percent) of petit verdot joins the cabernet sauvignon and merlot, bringing more peppery spice to the very fruity, especially for the vintage blend. As fresh as has been tasted for 2018 and drinking really well straight away. That said the structure is more than adequate and five more years easy remain for this level and epoch of consumption. Thirty minutes of air brings out more and more fruit. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Latour Les Forts de Latour 2017, AC Pauillac

Certainly much more taut and also firmer than the ’18 Pauillac with both the warmth and also the acid capture of the 2017 vintage. A more savoury Latour as well with just splashes of petit verdot and cabernet franc as salt and pepper seasoning to the nearly two-thirds cabernet sauvignon with merlot. Minty Pauillac this Les Forts, cool and juicy but as mentioned, still really tight. Classy wine all around with a more linear construct that will seek three more years of development. Dusty cocoa and espresso at the finish. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Latour

Château Latour Grand Vin 2011, AC Pauillac

The Grand Vin in 2015 is almost exclusively cabernet sauvignon (at 97.1 percent) with (2.6) and merlot and a quick splash of petit verdot. It’s clearly a more varietal focused Grand Vin than most, celebrating L’Enclos of Latour at the eastern and southern end of Pauillac. Vines that share terroir with Leoville Las Cases and here it just feels like perfection is the goal. OCD and non-compromised focus to make the purist, most complete Pauillac that is possible. This may have been one of the lesser heralded vintages in Bordeaux but as Latour it remains locked in tight, far from letting go and sure of its constitution, but also ambition. There are no flaws in this wine, the suit is tailored, the hair perfectly coiffed and the etiquette on point. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2019, AC Pauillac

Not considered a “third wine” for Château Pichon Baron but one composed by selected plots of Pauillac. Primarily merlot (80 percent) with 20 cabernet sauvignon. More than ample and substantial vintage for such a wine and in fact this is likely just about as rich and luxe as it gets for Pauillac. Chalky, liquid grainy and still churning through its inner workings for a CBP3 to drink just about as soon as you are wanting to enjoy one. Good acidity as well, semi-sweet and flirtatious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Les Tourelles de Longueville 2019, AC Pauillac

Deuxième Vin du Château. Majority of cabernet sauvignon at 63 percent, from the terroir west of the state near Château Batailley. The merlot component is 32 percent, followed by (4) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. Certainly more grip and intensity as compared to the Pauillac but no less fruit in fact more plushness and layering are involved. The tannins here are just a bit austere and currently demanding so give this another year or two before readying glasses, a tasting and dinner that involves this ’19 Tourelles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2018, AC Pauillac

A challenging vintage for many but this is a glorious 2018 from the word go, perfumed and Pauillac pretty as per what Château Pichon Baron just has to be. Since 2012 the wine is shortened as simply Château Pichon Baron to eliminate any confusion with the property that includes the Comtesse. From terroir that includes clay and also chalk beneath which makes for two-way conversions of both water retention and drainage. A crunchy Pauillac, like a mouthful of berries and gravel to indicate how far away this wine is from integrating and fully liquifying into its sure to arrive silky smooth mouthful and mouthfeel. Tannins are full and still in their infancy but the fruit is exceptional for the vintage. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2016, AC Pauillac

Griffons is sold through the Place de Bordeaux négociants with more cabernet sauvignon (the young vines not suitable for Pichon Baron) as opposed to Les Tourelles de Longueville which is a parcel selection, mainly of merlot. Dark fruit, richer than many second wines and a true mini Pichon with truer to life chalky structure. Grippy and intense, full throttle and as Bordeaux very much a serious wine that falls into a fine line designed and led by the Grand Vin from Pichon Baron. Very fine. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2014, AC Pauillac

Must be be said that this ’14 is showing with remarkable freshness while also full concentration that now slides and glides over the palate. Aromatically on par, as luxe and smooth with blessedly immaculate acidity, all aligned to speak for a maligned vintage that is high time it were universally declared as exceptional. Longevity makes up a great part of the equation and while nine years is a sneeze for top end Bordeaux it should never be taken for granted. The preserved freshness, an absence of crispy or crunchy bites and instead just this ease up on the palate. Adds up to a wine of distinct and philanthropic expression. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Pichon Baron au Baron de Longueville Grand Vin 2009, AC Pauillac

A wine that the team says was always approachable from the very beginning. There is just something about the 9’s in Bordeaux and especially Pauillac. The Abbey Road of Bordeaux, expressive of persistent peak freshness at this 13-14 year mark and will continue to show a similar ilk plus remarkable longevity for that many years more. Lush, enveloping production, a Pauillac so luxuriant it glosses over aesthetic differences between the wine’s varieties and seamlessly ties them together. Nary a moment’s secondary character and from a consciously cerebral point of thought this makes little to no sense. Yet there are times when vintage, appellation, estate and the universe conspire in the most magical of ways. “He say one and one and one is three” and so 2009, Château Pichon Longueville Baron and Pauillac “come together, over me.” Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2022, Pauillac

Most perfumed recent bottling in fact the aromatic concentration is the best of a string of vintages between 2017 and this 2022. Pine evergreen again but most floral as well. Palate concentration as well, richly textured, layered and substantial from start to finish. Great variegate red fruit and without a doubt one of the finest Verso from Haut-Batailley from the Cazes family since taking control of these vineyards in 2017. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2021, Pauillac

Only in this vintage we find cabernet sauvignon at 40 percent with more (60) merlot and it really shows in the doubling down verdancy of the wine. Pine forest and solvent, roasted and toasted elements, some weedy-vegetal aspects and even a bit of reduction. Tart, tight, intense and far from relenting, either by austerity or chains of tannic command. Wait two years to allow some wood integration and the promise of a fleshing by the fruity parts. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2020, Pauillac

The first vintage made by current technical director Julien Galland and a notable change in style from what came before. More up front fruit and roundness, not soft because how can it be and the toasty elements are in line with the three previous vintages. Warm vintage but no 2018 here, yet somewhat weedy in that there is always a level of verdancy in these Verso labels. Chewy, with liquorice and some partially dried, leathery fruit. Well made for sure. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2019, Pauillac

Clearly a next step up in understanding of what this fruit means at Haut-Batailley with great help from the generosity and ease of 2019. Increased richness, concentration and layers of structure create a new oeuvre for a Pauillac that now begins to mean serious business. The nose is exuberant in delivery of much warmth, umami and spice before morphing into major stage presence with respect to mouthfeel. Minty cool savour again and some toasted elements. A thread of barrel style really runs through these three wines between 2017 and 2019 but the last one also happens to brings the fruit. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2018, Pauillac

A per the vintage the results across Bordeaux and even within Pauillac are variable, here with a slight stemmy character that comes across in variegate reds and greens. Much richer and developed on the palate with wood well integrated, spices running amok and a fine chalkiness. Very different to the 2017, lower in acid and yet the smoky, roasted fruit and toasty elements are consistent. Quite complex for 2018 and still rising towards its crescendo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Batailley Verso 2017, Pauillac

The first vintage under the auspices of the Cazes family after purchasing the property in March of 2017. Only cabernet sauvignon (60 percent) and merlot, palate soft but with those perfectly elevating ’17 acids and wood that still sits up front with the fruit. Righteous verdancy, savoury and cool, of mint and a moment’s note of eucalyptus. Smoky in this regard and into roasted nightshades from a Pauillac that holds no cabernet franc. Unique 2017 in all respects, with good energy and toasty red fruit. A curious case of beginner’s experience. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2022, AC Pauillac

Spends 16 months in (65 percent) new barrels from six different coopers. The richest of all the Batailley wines, bar none, incredibly tannic and indelibly stamped with these vines and this appellation like no other. So many unresolved issues here, tannins so implosive and insular coiled so tightly around the fruit. Rich and generous but you’d hardly know it when you feel the extenuating circumstances of major structure. Drink 2027-2035. Barrel sample tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2021, AC Pauillac

The aim is 65 percent cabernet sauvignon with merlot and when the 2019 petit verdot plantings come into play they will take up approximately four percent of the blend. The 2021 is a bit of a verdant one, with fruit variegate between reds and some greens, liquorice and plum, evergreen savour and leathery fruit. Chalky in 2021, some tannic austerity and time needed to resolve all the parts. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2020, AC Pauillac

The first vintage of the Grand Vin made by current technical director Julien Galland is a major step up from the Verso label with a fine perfume and a most impressive level of concentration on the palate. An almost chewy Pauillac, of liquorice and so many red fruit aromas but even more so flavours. Impressive showing and a really stoic, partially impenetrable, far from showy and yet truly generous Batailley. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2019, AC Pauillac

The best of recent vintages (perhaps until the ‘22s come along) because fruit generosity is at the peak and balance is far more obvious amongst all the parts. Perfumed in ways that neither 2017 nor 2018 were able to accomplish and no trail away or off as it pertains to the texture and stage presence of the palate. Smooth and silken, tightly grained, compact and in charge. Really well made and true to the holy trinity of vintage, terroir and appellation. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2018, AC Pauillac

Whereas the finest fruit from 2017 was surely allocated to the Grand Vin it seems like 2018 was more of a split. This because of the challenge of vintage, hot and bothered and so there is a close affinity with the younger Verso sibling. Thicker on the palate, rich with a wood-influenced mix of chocolate and café. Some stem-weedy character is consistent with the Verso and here also some heat on the finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut Batailley Grand Vin 2017, AC Pauillac

The first year of the Haut-Batailley Fifth Growth classified Pauillac under the guise of the newly owned Cazes family. The typical spice in both aroma and also on the palate that is both Batailley and also Pauillac. You can sense the vintage acids straight from the nose whereas the mouthfeel sparks in fits because of the reaction between terroir and season. Quite fine for 2017 and chalky, tart and tight as well. This will continue to age and drink well. Major step up from the Verso bottling. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages Echo de Lynch Bages Famille J M Cazes 2016, AC Pauillac

The second wine of Lynch Bages has been named thus since 2008 though it existed for three decades before that. Like Ormes de Pez this is a very good Left Bank vintage and so Pauillac is also a place of great potential. Still a very young wine though minty and cooler with sweet acids singing in their vocal range of increased verbosity and generosity. This E de LB will do nothing but please beginning this year and will stay the course for a few more. The real secondary notes will likely begin in 2025 or 2026. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted September 2023

At Château Lynch Bages with Jean-Charles Cazes

Château Lynch Bages 2014, AC Pauillac

Here again comes the sleeper vintage, unassuming and under the radar, now coming into its own across the Left Bank. A Bordeaux that speaks in a local vernacular, liquid chalky and grainy, still churning through inner workings and coming together for pleasure and beauty. Yet another estate pouring 2014 and for good reason because perhaps any time ahead of now the vintage may not have shown as well as it is now. Skeptics would say the opposite but truth is truth and the ‘14s are in a special place. The terroir is truly here. How do we know? Freshness and transparency. Is that not exactly what to expect from a high quality wine of Pauillac? Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages 2003, AC Pauillac

Memory recalls and speaks of a very warm Bordeaux vintage but appellation matters and for Lynch Bages the northerly Pauillac location fared very, very well. No tertiary as of yet, only the maturing mid-points of secondary life. Hovering right there with rhythmic, syncopated and metronomic pace. Maintains its composure with aromatic perfume and the sweet development of its acidity while the tannins are essentially and fully resolved. Ideal to drink now as a mature Pauillac and should stay in this zone for up to five more years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages 1995, AC Pauillac

Mon dieu what a spicy nose on the Lynch Bages 1995! Limestone chalky mineral bites as well, with cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and still thriving acidity. Served as a pairing with salty (extra vielle) Mimolette and the old hard orange cheese works magic with the spice cupboard of the LB95. Yes the wine is also rich and chocolaty but the lack of tertiary qualities and persistence of freshness are what makes for the extraordinary match. Classic Bordeaux abilities and experience on full display with cool northerly Pauillac character. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted Sepetmber 2023

Château Pontet-Canet 2014, AC Pauillac

The second last vintage where a second wine was produced as that was eliminated after the 2015 vintage. Biodynamic since 2004, Demeter certified since 2010. This being the 5th vintage and here again the window for tasting 2014 from Pauillac because they are simply wines that needed time. As do all but the near nine year mark seems to be the sweet spot and this perhaps even a bit further ahead having been poured from a half bottle. Love the perfume and the acidity, both sweet and vibrant, up there at the height of appellative heights. No stringency but there is some power and the finish is a pure, contiguous continuation of a primed and balanced expression. Still just a wee bit of unresolved chalkiness at the finish so there is some work yet to be done. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Julien

Château Léoville Poyferré Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré 2017, AC Saint-Julien

Second wine of Château Léoville Poyferré that used to include fruit from the Moulin Riche vineyards but is now exclusively from Poyferré estate. The blend in 2017 begins with 58 percent cabernet sauvignon, followed by (27) merlot, (9) cabernet franc and (6) petit verdot. Two weeks of harvest began on September 20th and while this does not come crashing over the palate or clamp down with a wall of tannin it does instead fill and grip like one wishes it would. This after six years from harvest and with settled balance. A fine wine in a fine place wth sweet balsamic acidity and just that right amount of polish. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Moulin Riche 2016, AC Saint-Julien

A late or maybe better said classic harvest, from October 5th to 20th with nearly two-thirds cabernet sauvignon plus (26) merlot and (11) petit verdot. A vintage so very rich in wood, texture and spice. Carries a lot of wood and does so very well but the ambition mimics or rather falls into line with the Grand Vin of Château Léoville Poyferré. No cabernet franc and it shows, with an absence of pyrazine and roasted nightshade but instead more decadent chocolate ganache and fine, fine coffee. Finishes long and strong. Should very well last a good bunch more years. Fulsome and a Bordeaux on the edge of Saint Julien with focus and trenchant purpose. Drink 2023-2029.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2015, AC Saint-Julien

Harvested in classic timely fashion, from the 24th of September through October 10th and the blend is eerily similar to the ’16 Moulin Riche. The difference being there is some cabernet franc (3 percent) with (6) petit verdot. This is indeed a St. Julien that saw, soaked up and made use of its barrels, in the most substantial and luxe way. Chewy appellative wine, spiced and more floral than expected. Acids are exceptional for 2015 and tannins are certainly no slouch. A big LP pressed to both sides, each running longer than 40 minutes. Drink 2025-2034.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2014, AC Saint-Julien

The blend is 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, (35) merlot, (3) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. The underrated and understated vintage strikes again though it feels like St. Julien matures a little bit quicker than Pauillac. There are some leathery and drying fruit secondary notes with the very beginnings umami of truffle and cèpe. In lovely condition and ready for consumption. Drink 2023-2028.Tasted September 2023

Château Léoville Poyferré 2010, AC Saint-Julien

Warm vintage and while it really shows it’s also quite floral, lifted and refined. ’Twas an 18 day harvest culminating on October 18th with the finished blend at 56 percent cabernet sauvignon, (34) merlot, (7) petit verdot and (3) cabernet franc. So much wood and hard to believe how little this has matured but also how much the structure needs to allow fora settle. A truly magnanimous and blanketing vintage, a flannel of warmth and nurture for a wine’s thick and unctuous texture. Return in 18 months to two years to see what’s what and where it’s at. Drink 2024-2034.Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange

Château Lagrange Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2019, AC Saint-Julien

The second wine of Château Lagrange that came about because until 1982 all the best plots created the grand vin. A second wine needed to be created for the remainder of the grapes, thus the first vintage was 1983. The next stage happens with Mattieu Bordes and his wish to separate the plots themselves, for the first and second wines. And so there is more Les Fiefs made and the average vine age pulled for this wine is 30 years-old, with some 55-60 year-old vines participating in the final blend. Lowest blocks below the slope are here, more importantly because of the composition of those soils. A high caste, highly thoughtful and thorough Les Fiefs that made up 70 percent of the vintage’s total production. The blend in 2019 was 53 percent cabernet sauvignon, (44) merlot and (3) cabernet franc. True red fruit 93vintage, of the sweetest acids, now wholly approachable and in a great window of accessibility and responsibility. Freshness persists, hot vintage or not (aren’t they all) and easily the finest second wine Lagrange has ever produced. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2019, AC Saint-Julien

Smaller quantity because more Les Fiefs (with a higher amount of merlot) was made out of 2019 and so this 40 percent of production was a blend of 80 percent cabernet sauvignon with (18) merlot and (2) petit verdot. Another 2019 that can actually be consumed now or maximum two years from now. Should but will almost for sure go another 15 years. A chewy ’19 and both the wood and also tannin are grand, though also sweet, enticing and overall quite amenable. A special third growth wine to be frank and sure, not to mention great value as compared to others in Saint-Julien that cost 2.5 or three times the price. Brilliant stuff that’s affordable and happy to please. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2018, AC Saint-Julien

Very warm vintage (though ’19 and ’20 took it further) and so expect richness, concentration and also layers of tannin. Truthfully speaking the acidity climbs the ladder and perches at this very high level to match, buoy and elevate that fruit. A vintage of small berries with 45 percent skins and (55) juice that could not be heavily extracted. Which it was not and so there really is very little austerity, though there is tension and grip. This was the highest level of VA ever (so only at 0.59 g/L) but compared to the 0.4-0.5 usual number it is noted indeed. Th alcohol is 14.76 but it feels like 14, or even less. Especially if the wine is just so slightly chilled and because the wood on Lagrange never interferes with its bright and pure red fruit. So feel free to give them a bit of a chill. Less wood (at only 60 percent new) and it shoes in the best, fresh and easiest going way. By the way the blend out of 2018 was 67 percent cabernet sauvignon with (28) merlot and (5) petit verdot. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Les Fleurs du Lac 2016, AC Bordeaux

A second wine to the top white Médoc made by Château Lagrange and here at seven years of age. The blend is 60 sauvignon blanc and 20 each sémillon and sauvignon gris, in delivery of citrus namely but more than one variety and at this point quite fleshy and gelid. Showing some maturity but how could it not and there is some exoticism and fantasy here. That includes mango and passion fruit but the wine shows its lees with distinction. Acids are present and persistent though nothing that could be called excitable. Pretty solid second wine in white clothing. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2010, AC Saint-Julien

Huge perfume from this 75-25, cabernet sauvignon-merlot Lagrange which was (at the time) the second highest amount of cabernet sauvignon in a grand estate wine. There is some pine evergreen in this vintage and tasted blind I would suggest a cooler vintage, perhaps 2014 but there is more concentration and a tighter grain of tannin. Amazing freshness and persistence so despite some ‘10s being mature and advanced this is really fresh. Liquorice, a meatiness almost charcuterie but not quite and plenty of fresh fruit. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Lagrange Grand Vin 2003, AC Saint-Julien

An older vintage of Château Lagrange composed of 57 percent cabernet sauvignon with (33) merlot and (10) petit verdot that has more than stood the test of time. Especially because 2003 was warm but this is as about as fresh a vintage wine, especially for Saint-Julien, as there surely was ever made. The red fruit, the liquorice like the 2010 and more elasticity here. Incredible that it has remained this fresh, vital and energetic. Truthfully. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Estèphe

Château Cos Labory 2018, AC St Estèphe

The last acquisition by Michel Reybier (owner of Châteay Cos d’Estournel) and a property of 35 hectares with southwest slopes (as opossed to those of northeast at Cos). “The idea,” explains Géraldine Giroux “is never to swallow Labory into d’Estournel but to commit to keeping and making it a terroir driven wine that will compliment.” The 2018 is a gritty, tough, grippy and well, classic Saint-Estèphe of a linear and upright style. The purchase happened in April of 2023 so the wine is still very much one of its previous owners, they being the three brothers and custodians of the estate. Production will be kept at 80-90,000 bottles with the style moving into one that will be modernized, more easily accessible and less oak-aged. Plenty sturdy this ’18, local, parochial and austere. Needs two years to arrive at its first destination. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Duck, Château Cos d’Estournel

Château Cos d’Estournel 2014, AC St Estèphe

Indelibly stamped with its particular Saint-Estèphe DNA and to be honest at nine years of age still an impenetrable and immovable force. An earliest stage of development, crawling through infancy, likely because there was much less rain in this part of Bordeaux and so picking choices/times were more about the team’s discretion. Freshness persists, as do spice notes and tobacco. Balanced yet tight, not rigid but instead elastic despite its impenetrability. Silken, like liquid cocoa, high-toned, with a surety of confidence and high quality fruit. The purity makes us trust what it will become and how this ’18 will slowly evolve over the next two decades. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Le Crock 2017, Saint Estèphe

From a property purchased in 1903 by the family that owned Poyferré, meaning the sister after the estate was split from Léovile Las Cases post French Revolution. Minty cool, tart, tight and burgeoning with 2017 acidity. Not as fine as either Moulin Riche and obviously not close to Château Léoville Poyferré but the quality, winemaking and yeoman work are perfectly commendable. Le Crock should be there to pair with what’s in your pot. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

The gravels of Phélan Ségur

Château Phélan Ségur 2022, AC Saint-Estèphe

Barrel Sample – Hard not to hear the excitement over the 22s and though this is an en primeur tasting it is is already blended from a neutral barrel. Divine attention and distinction here and worthy of being praised as the best Château Phélan Ségur there has likely ever been made. At least in very modern times and a wine that is the result of new ownership, direction and experimentation, especially indigenous yeast strain work. Lots of wood yes but also fruit off the charts, a sexy swarthiness, sweet acids and equally elegant tannins. This will woo, attract and impress but please, allow it to settle in. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2021, AC Saint-Estèphe

A challenging one but oh so very perfumed, spiced to the hilt and aromatically chalky. Some verdancy, a real savoury element but not like the umami of 2014. Unique vintage, three quarters cabernet sauvignon with (21 percent) merlot and (4) petit verdot. Pine or cedar boughs, take your pick but evergreen is a thing. Really young and far from showing any maturity, to no surprise but my this is a tight but surely focused Bordeaux. Says colleague John Szabo M.S., “très flatteur.” Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2020, AC Saint-Estèphe

It seems already that 2020 shares some affinity with 2015 in that beauty, warmth, substantial fruit and accessibility are all apart of this beautiful package. Just a bit more than half cabernet sauvignon wth (42 percent merlot) and (2 each) petit verdot and cabernet franc. Not as warm a vintage and maybe not quite ready but it’s surely getting close. Carries that Château Phélan Ségur feeling that is not just Saint-Estèphe but truly speaking of and from this two-toned terroir. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blend in 2019 is 56 percent cabernet sauvignon with (42) merlot and (2) cabernet franc and while there is a tightness that persists there is no lack for heavy fruit and fuel. The wood is big, grip is formidable and tannins remain mired in the gravel and clay, not nearly wanting to release the fruit for accessible play. But the concentration and precision are wholly impressive and the impression left is serious indeed. Not a complicated year but the wine is stiff and knows how important it is and what it will be. No gamble here – age this 10-12 years and it will become as fine a Château Phélan Ségur as ever, especially in this new Belgian ownership-led era that began just a year earlier. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2018, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blend in 2019 is 57 percent cabernet sauvignon with (43) merlot straight away and of the last five vintages this is expressive of the least amount of fruit concentration. As such the wood shows greater and with more chocolate, espresso and spice. Huge wine but not across all of its constituent parts, but time is surely needed to see it soften. Food wine as well, a must because the fruit deficiency will require salty protein. A leathery and cedar-woody Château Phélan Ségur but they are all their own children so treat this with as much love as all the rest. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2023

The Canadians with Château Phélan Ségur Managing Director Veronique Dausse

Château Phélan Ségur 2017, AC Saint-Estèphe

The blending is always more or less 55 percent cabernet sauvignon and (45) merlot. A precise, direct and understood Saint-Estèphe as the story is told and explained by Château Phélan Ségur. High aromatic concentration and intensity but also wood that has yet to fully integrate into the heavy fruit elements of this still fresh and pulsating wine. Acids are felt on a palate that sends you back for a perfume in reprise, with violets and a whiff of unlit if also sweet tobacco leaf. The most complex of the three wines tasted together (with ’15 and ’14) because it’s both beautiful and austere. Needs just another year, whereas the ’14 asks for two and the ’15 already easily ready to go. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2015, AC Saint-Estèphe

A normal vintage with a bit more cabernet sauvignon (at 57 percent) and a finish to harvest after the most beautiful August and September. Fulsome and substantial Saint-Estèphe, accessible even now so therefore an earlier to drink vintage that attracts plenty of international attention. Still the DNA indeed links it to both 2014 and 2017 to tell us that vineyards and terroir are ultimately what make this wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Phélan Ségur 2014, AC Saint-Estèphe

In 2014 the blend was more cabernet sauvignon dominant at 65 percent but harvest had to happen late to make sure ripeness gained as much as possible. Quantity declines but 2014 is the sleeper vintage, especially in this appellation and the wine is still shy, closed and yet to truly emerge. Tannic and a bit austere with some verdancy though it’s a really unique and grippy kind of savoury. A Château Phélan Ségur of true umami, unique and intriguing, a wait and see what it still may become kind of Bordeaux. Give it another year, preferably two. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose

Château Montrose La Dame de Château Montrose 2012, AC Saint-Estèphe

Back in 2012 the blend was 76 percent merlot and (24) cabernet sauvignon, the merlot coming from the western terraces and also those closest to the river. Not considered a second wine but a separate entity, mainly because it is one of those rare high-end merlot dominant wines on the West Bank. Horsey with Brettanomyces present which was likely a vintage specific thing and now that the aromas are well into the secondary it really stands out. Great texture, riveting actually if also making for some hard and brittle moments but the palate does not express the fault as much. Will be a difficult wine for some because of the funk though many will enjoy the 50-60 day aged prime rib aspect to the wine. Would have shown its best a few years back though complexity is more than exemplary. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose La Dame de Château Montrose 2017, AC Saint-Estèphe

A merlot (49 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (43) with (4 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot form what was simply, unequivocally and surely a lovely vintage, especially in Saint-Julien and here in Saint-Estèphe. Might have been hot in Italy and warmer in Bourgogne but not in Bordeaux. All that said this ’17 is really pretty, so very floral of iris and violet, blue to black fruit as per this appellation and the chalkiness has now come into this most ideal liquidity. A sharp, simply beautiful, elegant and palate skimming Dame of true glissade. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

Top ranking vintage for Bordeaux as a rule but for Saint-Estèphe the glory is real. A passionate Grand Vin in total control of its senses and emotions, the florals adding red roses to the violets and then also some red fruit to complete the whole spectrum possible. As upfront and immediately gratifying as a Montrose could possibly be and yet the reigns must be pulled back because getting ahead would be wrong. That said there is more beauty and accessibility on the palate while the acids strike that amazing accord between sweetness and tight intensity. They are in control along with lace-pulled tight tannins that loosen and then tighten again. They tease and then pull back so that the palate and senses are managed, encouraged to not be too excited and look to the future. The ’19 Montrose expresses no highs or lows and is simply a semi-salty wine of perfume, colour, self-reflection and response. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Montrose 2012, AC Saint-Estèphe

The eleven years have brought about the early workings and meanderings of secondary character and there is some funk involved, if fractious as compared to La Dame. Here cabernet sauvignon at 62 percent leads, with (32) merlot, (4) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. The Grand Vin comes from the central terraces of the estate between the plots on the river and the merlot to the east. True blue florals and that classic blue to black Saint-Estèphe fruit. Still quite tannic though they are softer and sweeter than they must have been, even just two or three years ago. In the end it’s hard not to see this 2012 as beauty incarnate. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Tronquoy 2019, AC Saint-Estèphe

Used to be Château Tronquoy-Lalande but the L was dropped in 2019. Different winemaking team but sharing information, research and philosophy with older sibling (and same ownership) Montrose. Soils are really gravelly with larger stones like Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a truly unique terroir for Saint-Estèphe for wines that punch well above their (lack of) classification. Monsieur Tronquoy was a royalist and thus the new packaging-labelling plays on the national blue colour. The blend in 19 is 50 percent merlot, (44) cabernet sauvignon and (6) petit verdot. More clay composition at the surface in the Tronqouy soils as opposed to sister property Montrose (and also Dame de Montrose) where that clay lays lower, below the sand and gravels. Freshness and major perfume, a gloriously floral Saint-Estèphe from the most generous of vintages. Violets and roses, berries and currants, just a mess of flowers and fruit. Not without a chalky tannic presence so another year will help bring it all together. Like a Premier Cru Santenay as a Bordeaux from clay that really comes to play. Highest end production resulted in 90,000 bottles out of 2019. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Ormes De Pez 2016, AC Saint Estèphe Cru Bourgeois

The land was purchased in 1942 by Jean-Charles Cazes’ grandfather, after first investing and farming in 1939. Having just tasted the 2009 Château Ormes de Pez this 2016 comes with acquired knowledge. Knowing now what was not known before, that being excellence will most surely come 13-14 years post vintage, when that year was a top quality one. A king harvest, fresh as can be for a decade and a half and so the dusty and tannic nature of this ’16 is nothing to fear. The wine will begin to settle soon and reveal the great fruit of the season. High acid and leathery, balsamic quality and chalky, high in energy and also truly concentrated. Full, complete and of major potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023.

Château Ormes De Pez 2009, AC Saint Estèphe Cru Bourgeois

Not every chateau will have crafted and created such aromatic delicacy and satiny texture out of very good 2009 vintage but this by Château Ormes De Pez is one such example. An impressive back vintage showing for the property acquired by Jean-Charles Cazes’ grandfather in 1942. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Cellars at Château Margaux

Margaux

Château Margaux Margaux de Château Margaux 2017, AP Margaux

First vintage was 2009 and today it’s the third of four wines made at Château Margaux, all created with estate fruit. Big fruit concentration and a notable chalkiness, limestone aromatic and also texturally speaking. Chewy Margaux, of two-toned liquorice and then what just feels like how we imagine graphite to translate into Bordeaux. Again it is 2017 that delivers great acidity while the substantial fruit variegates, mostly in fresh notes but with moments of leathery dried and skin musky as well. Third wine perhaps but truly persistent and leaving a lasting impression. The blend is 64 percent cabernet sauvignon, (32) merlot and (4) petit verdot. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux 2015, AP Margaux

The getable season, especially now in an eight year past vintage state, fruit still as fresh as can be. That said the wood in dark chocolate and macchiato tones delivers full blanketing coverage while also locking this 2015 in a state of immovability. Will become something so very fascinating as a mature 2015 with notes that imagine stewed plums and shoe polish but again there is the current if always in flux state of affairs for a wine that will change quite a lot over the next five years. 14 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Margaux 2011, AP Margaux

Twelve-plus years forward and talk about tight, but also precision and passion. High acid vintage and more merlot than more recent times so expect a verdancy and also a softness in the fruit that variegates into the next level organza of the cabernet sauvignon. The 2011 has yet to truly advance further forward into secondary territory but the hints are there and the moment seemingly imminent. The vintage is linear, upright and minty cool, here in Margaux as it was similarly in Pauillac, but what separates in this appellation are the florals, violets namely and also Cassis. Long and persistent Margaux, rich if elastic. 13 percent alcohol. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted September 2023

The tower at Château Brane Cantenac

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

Referred to as the third wine for Château Brane-Cantenac but really more like a licensee level of quality, for opening today and tomorrow. Mostly young vines and from everywhere, meaning it’s the only one of the three that is a selection. No matter because is carries the DNA of the place and at this stage in the estate’s evolution is part of the newer winemaking and agriculture. More cabernet in this vintage and there are faint memories of a vintage’s tannins and truly a wine deigned for by the glass pours, always representative of Margaux. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux de Brane Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

The third wine from Château Brane-Cantenac meant for restaurants with the DNA and current quality of the estate’s evolution. Mostly young vines fruit but what is essentially a selection of all the plots and blocks. Makes use of the “plateau,” an area closer to the D2 where vines produce fruit that can be consumed early. The round introduction and with an extra year of age it really is in that ideal window. Higher percentage of merlot while this 2020 carries more tannin than the 2021 and so this extra year really matters – but the wine will drink well for another three years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Baron de Brane Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

Barone is the second wine for Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac, aged in barriques, 20 percent new for approximately two years. Coming from two terraces, three and five (primarily) levels of the plateau not only recognized by the estate but also other Margaux estates that share these levels of terroir. This from 2021 is remarkably substantial of fruit, much more so than the Margaux de Brane but they are both easy and lovely wines. The tannins are quite fine here and the quality high from a really perfumed Margaux of that classic purple fruit. Only this appellation carries this quality and character, neither red, nor blue nor black but a mélange of all three. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Baron de Brane Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

More cabernet sauvignon from 2020 and therefore a real grip, restrained power and extraction matched or fold by richness. Might only be three or four percent but trust that it makes a difference. The tannins in this second wine for Château Brane-Cantenac are in charge and there is more tension than 2021 which goes against the fresh maturity of the wine. This specific plateau parcels’ blend looks at terraces three and five and makes them sing in harmony, though another year (or two) would be helpful to settle the grip (which to someone who has been there reminds of 1996), bring things together. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Grand Cru Classé Henri Lurton 2021, AC Margaux

A whole other matter above and beyond the 2021 Margaux de Brane and Baron de Brane, third and second wines respectively for Château Brane-Cantenac. The Margaux DNA and tannin come from terroir is up front, in charge and so very serious for the estate. Fine, fine grains in chains of structure dictate the whole but the parts really begin with perfumes that are purely, expressly and for some, ostensibly Margaux. Liquid chalky already and more than hinting at the beauty and balance that are surely positioned at the not too distant horizon. Truly pretty, perfumed and charming Margaux, wise and knowing what needs to happen, which is great harmony before too long. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Grand Cru Classé Henri Lurton 2020, AC Margaux

This previous to (2021) vintage of the Château Brane Cantenac is a bit more closed and grippy but also less perfumed as compared to that following Grand Vin. That said the DNA combination of Margaux perfume and a palette of cool fruits mixed into a beautiful purple florality bring a quality of fruit that is more than just a little bit distinct. Nothing vegetal or earthy about this, nor could there be, especially considering the appellation. The winemaking fully respects what must be done, to extract gently (if with more vigour than the 2nd and 3rd estate wines) because the top plots and blocks supply the necessary drupe and fodder for top quality, harmony and balance. Reps the property with distinction and also finesse. This needs three more years to integrate and show its best. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Marquis de Terme – Cuvée 1762 2018, AC Margaux

Pricing matters and it should be noted that the 2018 Château Marquis De Terme 2018 is $80 at the SAQ and the 2019 available at the LCBO is $86.85. This may be considered a “lesser” vintage (and 2019 is certainly a top quality one) but there can be some amazing diamonds in the proverbial Bordeaux rough when scores and/or hype are downgraded. Especially if a 4th Growth like this Margaux is expressive of low-level duff and earthy flavours. Which is the case here and it is recommended to both decant and allow time in the glass to urge forward, coax and draw out the famous Margaux perfume. Who could not love a high acid vintage and one equipped with sneaky structure? This is the Marquis’ quiet stature and joker of a playing card, to deliver subtlety and potential when many think it’s just not there. This will surprise many naysayers and at the price represents about as low risk a purchase as there is in growth Bordeaux. Last tasted January 2024

Hard to deny the Margaux style and content with a perfumed and silky Bordeaux that deals in appellative realities. Liquid chalky tannins for a classified growth right in the centre of that appellation and a wine that refers to the year when the Marquis de Terme first began to produce a cuvée. True cabernet sauvignon based Margaux, very much in common with Brane Cantenac but also Rauzan-Ségla and Château Margaux. A finessed 2018 from a warm vintage, focused and just as precise as exception would demand. Put it aside for two more years before knowing that the brightness and freshness of its charm will surely come forth. The blend is 77 percent cabernet sauvignon with (18) merlot and (5) petit verdot. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

City vineyard at Château des Carmes Haut Brion

Pessac Léognan

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Le “C” des Carmes Haut-Brion 2019, Pessac-Léognan

Not made from the city Clos vineyard but from the 35 hectares in the countryside of Pessac-Léognan. A mix of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, (38) cabernet franc and (2) pest verdot made with a maximum of 30 percent whole bunch, only on the cab but also on a portion of the cabernet franc and the petit verdot (in warm vintages), as this surely was. A crazy concentrated and also spicy vintage. Two years in (30 percent new) wood plus six months in concrete vat. A lovely combination of 13 percent alcohol restraint and high (3.6-3.7) pH for a wine of salt and pepper seasoning, Pessac savour and country character. Beautiful rusticity, fine chalky tannins and length down a long gravel road. Will age quite well, likely beyond expectation. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan

Extremely different vintage but not like ’17, here with much darker, riper and developed fruit. Freshness would have to have been a challenge but at 13.5 percent alcohol and high pH there comes this ulterior freshness with texture imposed by great and forceful will. More active infusion earlier on because there was so much colour and extraction on hand from a vintage where the blend was nearly the same as that of 2017. That being 38 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (27) merlot. There really is no other chateau that creates this style, a mix of salt and pepper seasoning over blue to black fruit and in 2018 the whole bunch inclusion was 60 percent. If you are buying high end Bordeaux from 2018 then Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the place to be, though it’s likely sold out wherever you may live. Just about nothing else in the Left Bank finds this level of quality, balance and success. The whole bunch “infusion” methodology controls the heat and excess of the vintage to deliver finesse, precision, restraint and honesty. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2017, AC Pessac Léognan

In 2017 the whole bunch number was 45 percent for 42 percent cabernet franc, (35) cabernet sauvignon and (23) merlot. The second vintage of winemaker Guillaume Pouthier’s infusion methods whereby whole berries and whole bunches are layered mille-feuille style for a new kind of submerged cap way of keeping juice at the top and the most gentle way of breaking down skins without any crush. More reductive a vintage but subtly so and some amphora (10 per cent) is involved as well. The spongy blue clay and gravel top soil puts this is true blue aromatic status and a state of blissful violet perfume, but also light. Those ’17 acids are even higher here from the city vineyard than even Pauillac and Saint-Julien, rising to a crescendo where cabernet franc truly sings and tells a Pessac-Léognan story from within the Bordeaux city limits. With a little bit of noted, accepted and desired greenness it requires saying. As balanced as 2017 is want and will ever hope to be. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly Haut-Bailly II 2021, Grand Vin De Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan

Haut Bailly II began in 2018 and the third wine is called HB, allowing for a selection to be made for the II. Late-ish harvest from September 27th to October 11th for a blend of 70 percent merlot, (25) cabernet sauvignon, (3) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. A self-professed “come a long way” vintage that would not have made it this far without the attention and protection paid to the vines. A vintage of “reaction and adaptability,” because nature threw curveballs, even more so than it had in recent weather times. Frost namely and the loss of quantity, coupled with realizing that quality is everything comes to allow create this rich and powerfully restrained Pessac-Léognan. A true second wine, savoury, verdant, red fruit namely of plum, then liquorice and finally pomegranate, acids kept while pH riding high. Well thought out, designed and structured for a half life as compared to the Grand Vin that delivers substance and purity in its own, downright way. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Lunch at Haut Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly Haut-Bailly II 2020, Grand Vin De Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan

No salt and pepper from cabernet franc and petit verdot in 2020 but instead a direct messaging from (54) merlot and (46) cabernet sauvignon. A strong, firm, dusty and grippy example from a vintage of near excess but also one that allowed a winemaking team with all the finest implements to fine tune, chisel and tool the inner workings and outer-plating of an estate’s second wine. This would in fact be the cat’s meow for many an estate’s first from a 2020 that delivers far more texture and chalky inner belly than the following 2021. More grip is persistent and longevity looks into the next decade. There is a mineral aspect in this (and to an extent also the 2021) that suggests a calcium carbonate component in the clay soil. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly 2021, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan

As with the II the 2021 is a child of a (these days) later harvest from September 27th to October 11th for a blend of 65 percent cabernet sauvignon, (22) merlot, (10) petit verdot and (3) cabernet franc. Frost and other extreme weather demands meant only one thing: Put in the maximum vineyard work to prepare the vines for quality over quantity in ways other easier seasons may not request. The DNA of a contiguous Haut-Bailly vineyard will come through regardless of which grape leads but a cabernet sauvignon dominant Grand Vin means ulterior aromatics, textures and flavours – not to mention tannins. These are three times over, first in red fruit perfumes, followed by refined liquid chalky textures and finally those super fine tannins. Very mineral – strikingly so, for Pessac-Léognan and frankly all of Bordeaux. There is a stability, persistent consistency and pervasive thoughtfulness to a mindful wine like the 2021. It stands to as one of the region’s best. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Bailly 2020, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan

Like the 2021 this 2020 is led by cabernet sauvignon at 52 percent but more merlot interacts and the seasoning comes from (3 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot. Deeper and darker fruit for sure, more extraction, concentration and also trenchant intention. Grippier tannins, bigger and broader of shoulders and the wine is far, far away from entering its settled, integrated and fleshy zone. For now there is much to go on, certainly to let the imagination run wild and yes, reinvention is the foundation from which this 2020 seeks excellence, approval and distinction. There is great promise here but be patient because structure holds no punches and time heals all rifts. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted September 2023

Matthieu Laborde, Château Lagrange

Haut-Médoc

Château Lagrange Pagus De Lagrange 2020, Haut-Médoc

A warmer vintage, even besting 2018 and a blend of 58 percent cabernet sauvignon with (42) merlot. Different set of aromatics than Saint-Julien for sure, here floral and simple with very little oak aging. Just a month or three in older barrels (they are only used for up to four years at Lagrange and then sold to (owners) Santori in Japan for Whisky). Fresh and fruity with good acid and also temper. Lovely, easy and all the while with the expertise, technology, cleanliness, clarity and perfection seeking ideology of GM and winemaker Mattieu Bordes at Lagrange. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château du Taillan 2018, AC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnelle

Ranked as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionelle in 2018, one of the top 13 Cru Bourgeois which competes against the 1855 Cru Classification. Owned by five sisters and one of the five, that being Armel Cruzes is the winemaker. A terroir that is mainly clay with merlot at the lead (70 percent) plus (20) cabernet sauvignon and (10) cabernet franc. ‘Tis is truly pleasurable Bordeaux, perfumed, liquid chalky and a lovely mix of fresh finesse and mature charm. Just that fine bit of swarthiness and grip at the back end. Give it one year and enjoy for five more, at the base minimum. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Médoc

Château Cos d’Estournel “G” d’Estournel 2019, AC Médoc

G is for Goulée and this is not a second wine but rather a label for a vineyard in the northern side of Médoc close to the Gironde. Fruit comes first while dusty tannins and high acidity range in ways the Grand Vin from Saint-Éstephe does not. Plum peppery on the palate, sumptuous and also a high-toned balsamic sensation gained. The mid-palate could do well with more substance but then again not because the Médoc honesty is enough to put this and us in a playful mood. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Castera 2016, AC Médoc Cru Bourgeois

The oldest property in the northern part of the Médoc, dating back to the 13th century, a big thing to say and possibly even true. Just smells like cabernet sauvignon, marked for the place, knowable and obvious beyond reproach. The said the blend has 65 percent merlot with (5 each) cabernet franc and petit verdot. Not quite half new wood and yet it takes centre stage with the sauvignon. This may be seven years old but it could use a few more – although the hither tannins and thither austerity will outlast what freshness of fruit would like to do the same. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2023

Bordeaux Blanc

Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc Du Château Margaux 2018, Bordeaux Blanc

The current vintage of the Blanc is full of fruit east and west meaning more than the orchard but also that which is rich, exotic and quixotic. Gooseberry and passion fruit come to the imagination and even the sharp acidity of kiwi. Pretty sharp and pointed White Bordeaux, beautifully balanced between fruit and acids, extract and tannin, juicy forwardness and trenchant structure. That extract is truly impressive and the tannin at the tops for seeing this wine age well for another decade at the very least. 1,000 cases are produced. Drink 2023-2033. Last tasted September 2023

Pavillon Blanc is Château Margaux’s “baby,” a wine with a 300 year history with records indicating that red and white grapes were picked separately. Named Pavillon in the 1920s and not a second wine like the Rouge. Essentially varietal sauvignon though there are 100 vines of sémillon in just a few parcels. A continuance like few others and only 10-12,000 bottles are made. A matter of flint be design, of smoulder through elemental chemistry and something riper than what is normally thought of as sauvignon. These were Mr. Pontallier’s wishes, with a mineral finish to create a “vin de garde.” Liveliness, vibrancy and length all guarantee this dream. Tasted September 2022

Château Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Blanc Sec 2021, Bordeaux Blanc

First vintage was 2020 which is admittedly the more premium vintage of the top dry white produced off of Sauternes terroir. The bottom line is how the terroir has proven and is éefitting going back more than 20 years for dry white wines. Of course as a rule the lion’s share of sémillon goes to sweet Sauternes and sauvignon blanc to table wines but the blend here is actually higher in sém. Average vine age is 65 years for a production of 2,000 bottles. Hard to find a more premium white from and old and classic terroir in the Pauillac area. The acidity and salinity are interchangeable and matched dutifully while also impressively to extract and tannin. A very serious and precise wine that stands firm and upright, extends in linear fashion, grips the palate and unwaveringly so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Tronquoy Blanc de Tronqouy 2019, AC Bordeaux Blanc

“Typically” Saint-Estèphe though not legally allowed to be labeled as such and one of the only Blanc parcels in the appellation. Tronquoy is on the top of this “hill” planted to 80 percent sémillon and (20) sauvignon gris. No blanc. Planted 16 years ago (2007) and a unicorn in the middle of their red vineyard. Fermented and then also aged for 12 months in barrel in what could surely be called a Bourgogne style but this kind of wine is just now or recently coming into its own. The acids are higher and more in charge than expected and the wine is not nearly so fat or densely textured. Expressive and captures attention with high extract and also tannin. Some tension and definitely fantasy here, no malolactic having occurred and a white that should age well for five to seven years. Perhaps longer. Only 4,000 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Lynch Bages Blanc De Lynch Bages 2022, Bordeaux Blanc

Bordeaux Blanc from just outside the appellation of Pauillac but labeled as Bordeaux because there is no white appellation in the Médoc. Based on sauvignon blanc with (22) sémillon and (11) muscadelle for a steely, fresh and salty example. A touch waxy, certainly full of yellow citrus out of a fresher climate furthest away from the river. Cooler climate that is, less ripening but the high acidity and energy are what drives the white machine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Brane-Cantenac Henri Lurton Blanc 2022, Bordeaux Blanc

A tiny production of only 3,600 bottles and all allocated to one négociant, from a block close to the cantina, first made in 1999. The appellation could perhaps be considered as Haut-Médoc but only because it comes from a cooler spot on clay between gravelly blocks but it is in fact labeled as simply Bordeaux Blanc. True and rich, aged in big barrels with plenty of bâttonage for sauvignon blanc and (30 percent) sémillon. Quite rich and opulent, creamy with a salty streak and in retention of better acids than might have been expected. Savoury honeyed and a white caramel while elastic and lengthy in ways the BB stylistic does not always accede. No there is not a lot of this wine made anywhere in the appellations and so the rarity increases the perception of excellence but this spicy little number is balanced and makes an impression indeed. It’s always such a pleasure to taste high quality Bordeaux Blanc. This is everything 99 percent of California white wines wish they could be. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Vines at Château Cheval Blanc

Château Cheval Blanc Le Petit Cheval 2021, Bordeaux Blanc

The best kept secret in Bordeaux is the white wine from Château Cheval Blanc, a volumetric and fleshy white that spent 22 months in wood. Nothing sharp or austere, from plots on newer plantations in the vineyard purchased in 2006, once planted to merlot. This may not be the most archetypal Bordeaux Blanc but give it ten more years and surely that will change. Opulent Blanc in fact, inoculated and controlled to the finest science, sometimes stirred, sometmes not but surely fattened and fleshed by the barrels, including some big demi-muid vessels that also micro-oxygenate and make this wine as round and fruit-centric as could be wished. Meanwhile the energy is impressive, parts in shadows slowly emerging and it may just be the most chiaroscuro white wine anywhere, in Italy or France. It’s both anaesthetizing and hypnotizing, able to age, flavoured and textural of a truly fine caramel. Still the suggestion has to be made to drink this as fresh as possible, for best results. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château des Clauzots Bordeaux Blanc 2021, AC Graves

Important to know that Graves is one of the largest appellations in Bordeaux, starting in the north with Pessac-Léognon’s gravels. Thirty kilometres south of Sauternes is where Clauzots is located, a gravelly terroir with limestone, ideal for sauvignon blanc in Saint-Pierre-de-Mons. This is 70 percent SB with (25) sémillon and (5) sauvignon gris. No wood, six to eight months on lees and what is just fresh, no premature oxygenated and sweetly herbal Bordeaux Blanc. Citrus profile and quite a juicy little number. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Maroutine Bordeaux Blanc 2022, AC Bordeaux

Old vines at 40 years of age in the Premières Côte de Bordeaux that have been in the family since the French Revolution. The blocks are in Saint Germain de Graves in the south part of the Entre De Mers appellation. Half and half sauvignon blanc and sémillon, no wood, short aging on lees. Simple, fresh and smart if also juicy stone fruit with a squeeze of citrus. There is a tisane element and also notes botanically tonic. Higher pH, less in terms of salinity and simple. Correct. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted September 2023

Sauternes

Château Pichon Baron “Lions de Sudiuraut” 2022, AC Sauternes

The blend is 54 percent sauvignon blanc and (45) sémillon aged 50 percent in vats and 50 in barrels (20 percent new) for six months. This dry table wine from the Sauternes area is unique and remarkably tannic though the extract is modest by comparison. Light grapefruit, more like pomelo and a bite into a pear while only deep concentration into imagination could conjure blanched nuts or earthiness. Fresh and lively enough while best pursued and consumed as early as possible while the freshness of the fruit is in line with the concentration. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Suduiraut 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes 2013, AC Sauternes

The vines are 35 years old and proximate to Château d’Yquem, mainly sémillon with (10 percent) sauvignon blanc. Dates back to the Count Blaise de Suduiraut who restored and replanted the vineyard after it was destroyed by the Duke d’Epernon in the 1600s. A sandy-clay soil of 92 hectares within the 200 that comprise Suduiraut. Ages for 18 to 24 months in French cask. The spice and also elastic spiciness on the fruit is extraordinary and the volume is equal to the task. Apricot, lemon and orange-red tea flavour a gelid and pliable texture without any drying or leathery aspect. A good botrytis year and this is not only pure but so cool. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Bellefont-Belcier Technical Director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny

Saint-Émilion

Château Bellefont-Belcier Les Tours de Belcier 2019, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The second wine of Château Bellefont-Belcier, best when chosen in the vineyard though further decisions are surely to have been made in the cellars. This vintage predates current technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny and this is also one of Saint-Émilion’s most amenable, ripe and generous wines. The cabernet franc is quite mature and fulsome, obvious in its varietal character and perhaps not climbing the highest peak, yet still acting as a vertical wine. Crunchy and knowable, a really fine example of a second wine from a very specific terroir. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Haut-Brisson 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

From 18 hectares spread around the Bellefont-Belcier area/side of Saint-Émilion, 90 percent merlot with (10) cabernet franc. An opaque Right Bank red coming off of gravels, clay and some sand but not the limestone as with some of the area’s terraces and nearby slopes. A lighter soil resulting in a lighter merlot that shows its verdancy and sharp red fruit without hidden imagery or pretension. Savoury in minty cool and piqued bites of red fruit and spice. Not much structure at first though the tannins do sneak up, while really fresh and with good if never wild spirit. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château Tour Saint-Christophe 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The estate purchased by Vignobles K’s Peter Kwok who originally came from Vietnam by way of Hong Kong and one of the more impressive clay and limestone terraced vineyards in Saint-Émilion. The property lies over the hill (and as the terroir goes) so very far away from Bellefont-Belcier in that it makes its presence known with so much more strength and vigour. It can’t and will not hide and while winemaker technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny had only come on board for the blending there is no doubt here fingerprints are here, if only because the cuvée allows and encourages the terror to speak with utmost clarity. Et voilà, a huge identity that this who knows will recognize it immediately. Top cabernet franc expression, freshness and so far away from round and fat. Typical, especially aromatically speaking and then quelled surprise on the palate. A wine of Saint-Émilion identity from these terraces and soils. A wine of this kind of richness and tension is important but wait for Emmanuellle to take it further. She undoubtedly will. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Château Bellefont-Belcier 2020, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Impressive capture of 2020 with more than ample fruit and also acidity because the wood is restrained in a well-managed style. This is cabernet franc from Saint-Émilion in a nutshell, a bubble of terroir where clay, sand and gravels conspire to create a pretty serious if elegant example. A wine of exhalation because it breathers easy no matter the warmth and alcohol potential of the vintage. Comes across at 14.5 percent so for those who look for richness and more full-bodied Right bank Bordeaux then this is a perfect place to realize those dreams. Really well made with Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny’s imprint in the blending only but that will change when the 2022 comes around. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023

Château Cap d’Or 2019, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of the Gironde. The “golden cape,” of south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The same properties of Cap d’Or and also St. George estates were purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. A different vintage to ’18 in that while ripe and substantial this does not express as much flesh and up front fruit. Feels tighter and less gregarious, not yet ready to express what there will surely highlight when time allows for that to happen. Wait a year or more. The blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Dinner at La Confession

Château Cap d’Or 2018, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of Gironde. The “golden cape,” of south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The estate was purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. Much richer than you think, clay and mineral chalky with thanks to limestone and from a warm vintage though time has been kind and the wine is really opening well. Fruit is tops and standing on the tips with tension beginning to fall away. Generally speaking the blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Cap Saint George 2019, Saint-George, AC Saint-Émilion

From the rarest appellation of Bordeaux with only 192 hectares of vineyards. Also happened to be the first place where the Romans planted vines in the area of Gironde. The “cape,” of St. George, without the “S” to remind of the British connection. From a south exposure in this satellite appellation that was created in 1932. The St. George estate was purchased in 2014 by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Confession and La Croix St. Georges. Like the Cap d’Or the general blend is 80 percent merlot with (10 each) cabernet sauvignon and franc. Deeper, richer and more structured wine than the Cap d’Or, tannins grippier and everything tighter, chalkier, more fine-grained and further away from opening. Drying quite a bit at the finish. Wait two years at the very least. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château La Confession Famille Joseph Janoueix Propriétaire 2019, AC Saint-Émilion

Made from two thirds merlot and one third cabernet franc from only five hectares very close to Pomerol. The brand was created in 2001 and then Jean-Philippe Janoueix’s first vintage was 2007. A dynamic brand that has been developed by JPJ and here in 2019 the terroir comes to full and substantial fruition. A true blue vintage for these vineyards and this appellation on a collision course that culminates here with a very special mix of the two right bank grapes. Such a mouthful of fruit freshness, sharp and pointed acidity that culminates in major tannin adding up to seriously proper tension. This fills, expands and creates what can only be described as an explosion upon the palate. Magnanimous wine that will soon begin to express itself under total control. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Cheval Blanc Premier Cru Grand Classé A 2011, AC Saint-Émilion

Classic, meaning one that allows the vintage to binate and express itself. Dry start, slightly warmer than average, later season with botrytis pressure and as a total result a season of variability and spontaneity. Selection was key, to eliminate rot and while quantity was down, quality high when good choices were made. Far from the most opulent Cheval Blanc, cool savour and florals that remind of iris or violet but nothing in the face or exceptionally out of place, or character. Concentration yes but no density, nor are there any stops, fits or starts. Youthful and aromatic though there is some movement in the flavours. A plum pudding developing, again the savour that reminds of mint family herbals but also an unknown umami, perhaps even truffle. Harmonious wine, softening and nurturing, surely a result of a soft, powdery soil akin to tufo, overall a wine that is the epitome of what is often referred to as “lovely.” Drink 2023-2029. Tasted September 2023

Château Pavie-Macquin

Château Larcis Ducasse Famille Gratiot-Araume 2018, AC Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

A joint between Nicolas Thienpont and this their 17th vintage for a classic Saint-Émilion on the hill shared by Pavie of mixed clay layers with hard calcaire in a very specific cool soil for merlot and 14-16 percent cabernet franc. Reeks of white mineral stone and perhaps not as unctuous and luxe as the Pavie (and Macquin) wines but the line extends deep into a vanishing point for true mineral perspective. Less than 10 hectares provide ripe fruit that cuts through the rocky quality with streaks of blues and purples. In a very good place at this near five year mark and showing no signs of slowing down. Very classy and well put together. No pretension, just real and understated. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted September 2023

Vines at Pavie Macquin

Château Pavie-MacQuin Famille Corre-Macquin Propriètaire 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé

The first vintage made by Nicolas Thienpont was 1995 for a Saint-Émilion that received classification in 2006. Grafted plants helped keep material in the vineyard after Phylloxera and today the three clays of white, red and brown plus two types of limestone (hard and “tender”) all layer throughout the blocks for this very juicy and mineral Right Bank wine. The dominant merlot is met with cabernet franc for a few reasons, namely aromatic complexity but also palate expansion and textural elaboration. Opens up and variegates with thanks to the grape and perhaps the future might see more splashes to fulfill the wants and needs of its legion of fans. Big wine, big vintage and big results, all within balance. A truly likeable wine that will never disappoint. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted September 2023

Aymeric de Gironde, Chief Executive Officer Château Troplong-Mondot

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2020, AC Saint-Émilion

It might be thought that following up 2019 would be a most difficult, if not impossible task but shed the temptation to make comparisons because all Troplong Mondot wines of the last six years need be assessed and enjoyed each on their own merit. A truly grounded and intense 2020, high caste, vibrant and a dancer, not light but yes graceful on its feet. The saltiness on this 2020 from the combination of limestone and (35 percent hard clay rock in the vineyards) translates to fine tannin and a finish that is pure chalk. Perhaps not to live as long as 2019 with as much pure joy through the decades but that finish will never be anything but a true chalky display, of sensation and emotion. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, AC Saint-Émilion

First vintage where the malolactic fermentation was done 100 percent in tank before being racked to barrel. Some simultaneous spontaneity overlapping with alcoholic fermentation but more often than that there will be control to have them happen one after the other. The fact that 35 percent of the vineyards at the top of the hill are filled with the hardest clay anywhere in Bordeaux, coupled with limestone all over creates the most mineral quotient around. This transmits as contained and controlled power, especially from the generously wooded 2019 but my goodness the saline freshness, chalky quality and silken tannin wrap up the fruit with a ying-yang of nurture and grip. Whether you are familiar with, an expert on or just arriving at a Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classé for the first time – it just doesn’t matter. This 2019 will blow your mind. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot Mondot de Troplong Mondot 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

The only wine made as a varietal one, that being merlot to celebrate the chalkiness of the limestone soil. No new wood yet 60 percent used barrel and the rest remains in stainless steel tank. This ’18 is the second vintage of this iteration, before being a true second wine of all the fruit that did not make it into the top wine. Just smells calcareous and the palate delivers this minty cool sensation with a calcari saltiness, silken texture (including the tannins) and absolute class. So drinkable and kept back until it’s ready to drink so therefore the current vintage on release is 2020. The fact that it’s 14.5 percent alcohol is not a factor because pH is perfectly low, in and around 3.42. Precise, clean and no guesswork here. Clarity for merlot incarnate. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot 2017, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Sounds like a broken record yet here we are again with a terrific example of 2017 Bordeaux, a vintage maligned early if just because of the scare by an April frost. In fact the syncopation between fruit and acidity equals quality in an effortless symbiosis and 2017 shows the experiential joy Bordeaux has discovered in modern times. This Toplong-Mondot is just that as it enters the sweet zone right here and now at the six year junction. The tannins are nearly resolved or at least shed of any austerity while the acids are simply plugged in, rock and roll, like the Who in 1971, bursting with energy. Sip enough 2017 in 2023 and 2024 and you too won’t be fooled again. “A change, it had to come. We knew it all along. We were liberated from the fold, that’s all.” Freshness wins in the end. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Troplong Mondot 1998, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

A vintage when (at that time) consulting oenologist Michel Rolland was for some reason or another unavailable and the team picked (cough, cough) early, or at least earlier than would have been dictated. And so…the rest is history and freshness. Yes, a good to great vintage has now been the secret out of the bag for at least a decade and this ’98 is drinking beautifully in 2023. A Premier Grand Cru Classé of charm, nurturing to the palate, attentive, regal and distinctive. The umami of the vineyard’s hard clay rocks is spoken through merlot with its two cabernet counterparts. That stony argille is bled into the blood of this very particular hill of Saint-Émilion by way of perfectly ripe fruit picked just when it needed to be so that it could still be enjoyed today. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Pailhas Vieilles Vignes 2018, AC Saint-Émilion

Family estate in the village of Saint Hippolyte and essentially a Villages wine from a limestone and small gravels terroir. Mix of 80 percent merlot with (20) cabernet franc, hot vintage and seriously fruit expressive. Half and half concrete plus barrel aging for a year, perfect gateway drug into the Grand Vin possibility and still very youthful for 2018. Punches above its weight in that and other regards, especially the fineness of tannin. Should age well for six to eight years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2023

Château Église d’Armens 2018, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Owned by Domaines Comte de Malet Roquefort and also produced by the same technical team as Château La Gaffèliere. Big and heavy extraction and so the tannins but also the malic acidity is a bit pushed. Not much joy here it would seem. Tasted September 2023

Saint-Émilion

Lussac-Saint-Émilion

Château Haut La Grenière 2020, AC Lussac-Saint-Émilion

Vines getting into their golden age (at 35 years), taking merlot (75 percent), (20) cabernet franc and (5) cabernet sauvignon into experienced and well documented territory. Warm vintage with a truly rich aromatic profile, immediately seductive and surely enticing. Silky smooth and with well integrated if generously issued and incorporated concrete plus stainless stainless aging. Tons of fruit, fresh and that charcuterie feel. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Pomerol

Château Clinet 2021, AC Pomerol

Just bottled in July and this is the first opening of a finished bottle. Nothing extreme about the weather conditions with lower alcohol than recent vintages, at 13 percent which is just unheard of in these days. Less merlot and the cabernet sauvignon commits at 25 percent, higher ever in modern times at Clinet. Youthful is the understatement and this ’21 needs minutes of swirling and even some agitation to release its aromatic grace. Man this is tightly wound and just as the berries tasted on the sorting table just now at the ’23 harvest revealed there is a salty-mineral quotient in the wine. Precise and focused as much as any Pomerol, chilled and of a sleek design, like an Italian race car or charcuterie slicer. Spices are so integrated, graphite is in and if there are verdant notes they are sweetly savoury and the finish never wavers from the direct line taken at the moment the lights tuned from red to green. “We have always wanted to make a wine showing the specificity of the location.” The words of Clinet’s and the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux’s Ronan Laborde. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2019, AC Pomerol

The 2019 is poured last in a mini flight with 2017 and 2021 because it is the highest in alcohol, written at 14.5 percent (though is actually 14.65 to be exact). That’s the vintage and the colour straight away tells the story of concentration while the cabernet sauvignon component is 20 percent. Approximately 80 percent new wood but this fruit is pristine and fulsome so receiving that much wood was far from an issue. More variegation but every layer is deeper and richer than the last. If 2021 builds and builds then 2019 is compact, not dense but composed of many films upon films and there is this pressed leathery fruit aspect indicated by the aromatic wealth. You can actually smell berries of several genus and the cabernet sauvignon brings the Cassis. Hard to say whether this is expressive of more finesse and precision than the 2021 but what it surely delivers is extreme philanthropy. People will swoon and die for this kind of luxe Pomerol and the tannins are dutiful, carrying the weight and extending the life of 2019 for what will be many years to come. Drink 2024-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2017, AC Pomerol

Similar vintage to 2021 though higher in alcohol and while there were Spring frosts around there were none here in this part of Pomerol. Enough water, never too much heat and harvest in the third week of September. The blend is 92 percent merlot with (8) cabernet sauvignon and this fruit is just so perfectly and naturally sweet. Of corse four settling years makes a huge difference and the new oak is less than 2021 (and other recent years), here at 70 percent. The juiciness is off the charts, the acidity so bloody fine, as are the tannins, for Clinet just as tight and embracing in equal terms. So obviously picked at exactly the correct maturity. This ’17 builds and builds, just now approaching its first stages of maturity but the finish indicates some still unresolved moments. About two years away it would seem. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2016, AC Pomerol

Exceptional vintage for both quality and quantity, led as always by merlot but Clinet is one of the more cabernet sauvignon supportive houses on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. To define the estate style a 20 percent (more of less) mix helps to deliver the terroir. Good acidity persistence for a ’16 just now looking to get things moving forward and so the window is opening to let some air in and fill the room with freshness. That fresh character is über persistent, urged on by the inventiveness of the vintage acids to establish a fine Clinet, super-focused and more than generous. Drink 2023-2034. Tasted September 2023

Château Clinet 2005, AC Pomerol

Seems like a truly mature Clinet at first but within minutes there is a re-grouping of the aromatics and the wine’s finer senses for a renewed freshness coming from an aromatic burst. Still you can’t miss the Pomerol umami in truffled and cèpe moments as sweet as they are pungently earthy. Holding very well, a swath of chocolate ganache and the operative word is holding because the wine as reached its apex. Calm, gentle, graceful and clearly a style from another time while distinctly proper in retrospective view. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Croix St. Georges Famille Joseph Janoueix Propriétaire 2019, AC Pomerol

A tiny production of 1,500 bottles from winemaker and proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix is from Pomerol surrounded by neighbours that include Le Pin. An about face example as compared to La Confession that may lie within the auspices of St.-Émilion but for all intents and purposes could also be thought upon as Pomerol. Rich and opulent but so under control and in balance, not to mention high, haughty and contemplative level elegance. Such a baby and taking every advantage of the vintage which must be looked at as exceptional. The finesse and precision here is more than obvious, in fact it’s downright laser focused. Mon dieu this works the glass, palate and senses with outright trenchant ability, acumen and ultimately elastic tension. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted September 2023

Château Lafleur Des Rouzes 2020, AC Pomerol

Classic Pomerol blend at 80 percent merlot with (20) cabernet franc, 16 months in 70 percent, three levels of mixed wood. Dark fruit, quite dark actually, with wood a factor, a big factor. A cool, savoury, brushy aromatic profile and minty, certainly a cause of a specific terroir. This is north Pomerol on the border with Lalande de Pomerol, not far from Clinet. Plenty of interest to be sure. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2023

Château Petit-Village Le Petit 2020, AC Pomerol

Le Petit is the second wine of Château Petit-Village, an estate with ties to the knights and Frères Hospitaliers of Saint-John of Jerusalem, first to cultivate vines in Pomerol. Merlot at 75 percent with (18) cabernet franc and (7) cabernet sauvignon coming from deeper gravels with sand, clay and what’s called crosse de fer (iron pan). A small property that was once owned by Guillaume Clarke and family of Médocaine on the plateau of Pomerol in a triangle angled by Château Le Pin, Château Pétrus and Château Le Conseillante. Lost in the shadows of these famous estates but deserving of being raised up. A varietal wine of 100 percent merlot, acids piquing and carrying the wine forward to a focused finish. Fresh, full of fun, creativity and while the wood is very much in charge there is an Amaro-herbal quality that truly drives the wine – with that acidity in full flash and fantasy. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2023.

Lalande-de-Pomerol

Château Ame De Viaud – Cuvée des Capucins 2020, AC Lalande-de-Pomerol

A ferric quality with pyrazine and charred/roasted nightshade flavours. Nothing truly exemplary for Pomerol and satellites and something overly mature about the whole affair. Tasted September 2023

Tearrces at Château Bellefont-Belcier

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Château Le Rey Les Rocheuses Parcelles no. 5 et 6 2020, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

From Castillon with an area of limestone and then another with deep clay. Two wines are produced, one from each terroir and this is the limestone, housed in a Bourgogne-shaped bottle. Sees 12 months in (10 percent new) oak, made with 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc. Les Rocheuses, a “rocky area” which happens to be limestone. A more serious wine as compared to its clay terroir-raised Les Argilleuses which is looked at for fruit, fun and early consumption. Les Rocheuses is rich and also startling, lightning of reflexes and so bloody tart. Blood orange, high acidity, peppery going down and impressively long. Tannins yes but they are not too forceful. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Le Rey Les Argilleuses 2022, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Just bottled in March which was just a short elévage away from harvest because the purpose is to share a bottle with friends. The clay-based terroir delivers this very fruity but also peppery and almost chalky-spicy Bordeaux. This is easy and so very licensee friendly that with a chill will not hide the liveliness and the berries are all over the palate. Would you know it’s Bordeaux, perhaps not but does it really matter? Not for a moment. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Domaines Janoueix

Château De Monbadon, Indie de Monbadon 2021, AC Castillon-Côte de Bordeaux

Monbadon refers to a fortress in the time of the Northmen, Normandy vikings that protected Paris from other northern Vikings. The fortress was built by the British who were born in France and spoke French, specifically the grandson of William the Conqueror. Indie is the knight that built the fortress. There were 25 hectares and Jean-Philippe Janoueix kept but 10, here for a second wine that is 55 percent cabernet franc (locally referred to as bouchet) with 45 merlot. Elévage in amphora, concrete and 500L cask. Organic property and a truly aromatic style with some piques and valleys, from terroir with both clay and limestone. A well balanced mix of the two if leaning chalky and the 25 year-old vines are in their prime. Loving the green and the freshness of red fruit. With the Indie there is every reason to believe that this Monbadon is something you can put a little bit of a chill upon to make it drink with the most elegance and also joy. Tannin but nothing so demanding. Don’t forget, “where there’s smoke there’s Indie.” Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023\

Jean-Phillipe Janoueix

Château De Monbadon 2021, AC Castillon-Côte de Bordeaux

A fresh vintage with great acid, tension and freshness for the cabernet franc and merlot blend from Jean-Philippe Janoueix’s newly acquired and minted fortress and vineyards of Monbadon. Longer elévage in barriques (more of it new as well) and also amphora. Decisions are made in the cellar as to what goes to Indie and also to this to seek more grip and structure. No great departure from the Indie because the terroir (clay and plenty of limestone) plus agriculture (organic and a search for quality) are the same. Further exaggeration of the pyrazine, verdancy, red fruit and increased tension in this more important or shall we say serious of the two wines. Chill this as well though wait two years before beginning to drink the bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Rochers de Joanin 2019, AC Castillon Côtes-de-Bordeaux

Now nearby to Saint-Émilion with 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc though just 20 percent barrel and quite a tannic Bordeaux from a rich and generous vintage. Fine grained tannin that makes the fruit seem the same and so there is some austerity in the second half of the wine. Just a touch drying for the vintage, still needing some time. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2023

Côtes de Bordeaux

Château Puygeraud Héritiers Famille Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Cyrille’s grandfather Nicolas on his father’s side (whose father was George Thienpont) is now in charge of this top estate located in Francs Côtes de Bordeaux on the outskirts of Saint-Émilion. The family name is from Belgium, meaning “10 pounds.” Mainly merlot with 10-15 percent cabernet franc. A soft and juicy satellite Bordeaux with full flavours and at this point, in spite of the warm vintage, fully resolving into softening tannins. A lovely drop in all respects. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted September 2023

Château La Prade Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

A family estate belonging to Cyrille’s father Nicolas Thienpont in Sainy-Cibard on a limestone plateau beneath the clays, purchased in 2000. Like all the family’s wines it is merlot that anchors with approximately 15 percent cabernet franc to develop aromas, expand flavours and chill the tannin. Only 3,000 cases are made for a Francs Côtes de Bordeaux with a distinct calcareous chalkiness while also easy going in its just now beginning to mature style. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Château Alcée Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

From three hectares acquired by Nicolas Thienpont in the Côtes de Castillon near the Monbadon Castle. Another limestone plateau with clays on the hillsides, now 6.5 hectares and in this wine a matter of varietal merlot. Pure mineral merlot and verdant, an elemental savour that takes its character from white rock more than red clay but the latter does resolve through the stone to bring enough juiciness. Base and necessary though it should be noted that this is a satellite appellation Bordeaux for lovers of the region as a whole. More freshness than either of the Francs Côtes de Bordeaux estate wines and likely to age a little bit longer. Might even wait a year to open the first bottles. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2023

Château Puygeraud Bordeaux Blanc Héritiers Famille Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

From an appellation where both sweet and dry whites can be made, here in a sauvignon blanc with (10 percent) sémillon. Light, linear, flinty and with true barrel spirit yet not at all fleshy and round. More to the Bordeaux Blanc point then most with a gooseberry and grapefruit mix, though no red tart citrus component. A bit tannic and truly dry. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Château Les Charmes-Godard Nicolas Thienpont 2018, AC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Fermented and aged in large (500L) barrels, 15 percent new year by year. A mix of 63 percent sémillon with (21) sauvignon blanc and (6) sauvignon gris. More serious, fleshy, fat and round as compared to the Puygeraud Bordeaux Blanc with orchard fruit struck by flint and a finish of savoury white caramel. Chewy white this time around and even more tannic, not to mention higher in extract as well. The sémillon takes centre stage and makes its presence well known. Rich, juicy and substantial. This well age well – it has come to this point from 2018 without stress or blemish so four more is more than a reasonable possibility. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Côtes-de-Bourg

Château Relais de la Poste 2020, AC Côtes-de-Bourg

Post as in an old post office on the Right Bank where limestones mix with gravels for merlot with (10 percent each) cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Stony and gravelly smells with well ripened fruit that stands up to be counted. Classic Right Bank beauty with dark red-black fruit and a fine chalkiness. Moment of pancetta. Acids do their yeoman work. Really good wine from a solid terroir. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted September 2023

Bordeaux

Château La Maroutine 2019, AC Bordeaux

Family estate to 1789 in Saint Germain de Graves, specifically Côtes de Cadillac though not labeled as such. Based on merlot with (20) percent cabernet sauvignon, now wood and while fruit rises high it does so with some horsey character. The funk is not terroir but winemaking and in this bottle it is problematic. High in Brettanomyces and so both texture and tannin harden and tighten. Tasted September 2023

Tasted in Toronto back in 2022

With Ivanhoe Johnston of Nathaniel Johnston Négociants

Duluc De Branaire Ducru 2016, 4e Cru, AC Saint-Julien, 2nd wine of Château Branaire-Ducru

Not as much range as Château Branaire-Ducru, nor the full density of top Saint-Julien yet steady in terms of style. Perfectly mid-weight and from a top vintage in terms of classicism and balance. “What Bordeaux should aim for,” explains Ivanhoe Johnston. Showing some truffled maturity and Johnston adds that “a second wine like this should be available and ready to serve.” It does just that by gifting pleasure and soliciting opinion – one that agrees with the goal, cause and effect. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted July 2022

Château Lacoste Borie 2016, AC Pauillac, 2nd wine of Château Grand Puy Lacoste

The second wine of Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, yet another matter connected a top quality vintage in the mid-term of its activities. Fineness and balance from a deuxième well travelled and quite quick to arrive at subtle truffled secondary character. Also notable for its earth-driven set of circumstances, aromatics well concentrated and expressive of moderate alcohol (at 13.5 percent). The nose is stronger than the palate in that regard and the wine equalizes as a factor of the two. The palate holds that bend but not break, stretched elastic kind of feeling, with chalkier tannin as compared to say a Duluc by Branaire-Ducru. Sturdier structure here for longer aging juxtaposed against a reality so very upfront to characterize the overall fairness of this wine. The 75 percent cabernet sauvignon has much to do with this, but no doubt also a factor of Pauillac being the more structured appellation. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted July 2022

Château D’Aiguilhe 2012, AC Côtes De Bordeaux Castillon

A systematic vineyard blend made up of 80 percent merlot and (20) cabernet franc, showing well with a push-pull, fruit-acid relationship. Unique vintage with this sort of freewheeling acidity mixed with present maturity stemming from high cumulate concentration. A metered matter of truffled infusion, really dark fruit, tar, iodine and fruit hematoma. Also fragrance, a juicy perfume and truly all that could be wished for out of a ten year-old Côtes De Bordeaux Castillon. The mid-palate is now just a bit stretched, to no great surprise, further reflected in the quick to resolve finish. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted July 2022

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2016, AC Pessac Léognan

A massively concentrated, palate expanding and expressive Pessac-Léognan with one foot firmly planted in the Left Bank and the other pointed towards the Right. This 2016 is the first of its own kind, initializing the “infusion’ method, gently pressed, making use of a consistently wet and submerged cap. Perhaps a nod to Piemonte but not an exact iteration of “cappello sommerso” fermentation style. Built upon 40 percent each cabernet franc and merlot with (20) cabernet sauvignon, all parts in synch if not quite ready to open up. Acids and tannins are firm and tight, both equipped to handle the qualitative level of 2016 fruit. All are in view and just another one or two years will see to the first great moments. Compare Les Carmes to Haut-Brion at three or four times the price to see that clarity and equality are real. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted July 2022

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2018, AC Saint-Émilion

The first vintage post Michel Rolland era, moving away from über ripeness and into greater freshness. So, now quite a new, updated and contemporary expression of the unique Saint-Émilion terroir. Also what négociant Ivanhoe Johnston refers to as “a new human interpretation,” with a new consultant (Thomas Duclot) on board. Hotter vintage, especially compared to 2015 yet most certainly a fresher wine. Terrific perfume, even if it’s still in a state of demure so use imagination to unlock doors of both perception and possibilities. The emotion is more than aromatics because purity and finesse are special. A renewed style and perigee beginning but we get a pretty good sense of what this is all about. By the time 2019 rolls around our minds and palates will surely be blown. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted July 2022.

Château Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2015, AC Saint-Émilion

The 2015 is a wine that provides a high amount of alcohol (at 15.5 percent) from a warm, though not sweltering vintage. The Troplong-Mondot ace in the hole are its special soils, the Bordeaux equivalent of Silex if you will, high in calcium carbonate and so this is Saint-Émilion with a greater percentage of cabernet sauvignon. The hill ripens later than many parts of the Right Bank appellation which means even in hot seasons the hang time extends and therefore phenolics are well developed. A dense, concentrated and flavour-packed 2015 of an intensity knowable and impressive as this era of Troplong-Mondot. Drink 2022-2030. Tasted July 2022

With Thomas Burke, Commercial Relations Manager, Château Margaux

Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge 2009, AC Margaux, 2nd Wine Of Château Margaux

A rue savoury character now, fennel or sage, but a Pavillon Rouge that has a-romanticized of a slow Bordelais confit. A double decant and the wine is aided by a further 30 minutes in the glass. Keep in mind that a few decades ago this fruit would have been used for the Grand Vin but prices of land and production were not what they are today. Quality runs high to justify changes and decisions made 13 years prior. Drink 2022-2034. Last tasted September 2022

Persists as a wine of intellectual perfume and expressionist tannin. While the bouquet is quick to open you can’t help but wonder how much more it will bloom when the integration touches the apex and works in perfect union with the velvet elegance of that plush tannin. The wine never forgets to remind you of the earth from whence it came and the natural funk that always pervades its air. The length is unwavering and linear to a vanishing point perspective. Tasted March 2018

From a wine that “used to be a tool,” comments Paul Pontallier to a “second wine” out of an incredible vintage “at least as good, or better than the four previous vintages of the first wine.” Them are fighting words and no sooner are they more truthfully spoken then over a swirling glass of the wine that has improved the most at Château Margaux. The Pavillon Rouge ’09 is indeed the best in modern times, in part due to immaculate selection and because it makes up just one third of the total red grape production at Margaux. In the 1980’s it was the opposite but with a third wine now pushed to the European and Japanese restaurant market beginning in this vintage, Pavillon is now a grand brand, in a connected and assiduous way as never before. There are 100 lesser ’09 Bordeaux that fail to assimilate the wood and the crush of density, not to mention the tannin and Expressionist brushstroke. Pavillon manages a suppression of the admiral elements, including the scientific ones. The fruit is deeper, riper, with more brooding levels of pectin and anthocyanin. An earthy funk makes a late appearance on a finish of extended length to indicate where this Pavillon will range, forward 25-30 years and back to a 1989 type of history. Tasted April 2014

Château Margaux, Grand Vin Du Château Margaux 2004, AC Margaux

Tasting a Pavillon Rouge five years this ’04’s junior is an invitation to prepare the palate for the Grand Vin and one nose into this Margaux and you know the table is set up for near perfection. The accents, accoutrements and accessories are aromatically heightened yet this 2004 is anything but a showy vintage. Still exists and persist as a promising and that is not something usually said about an 18 year-old wine. It’s on the ideal trajectory and despite some hints at secondary character the freshness leads the experience. Damp earth, clay-crusted truffle and crisp morning forest air are all part of the journey. Sweetness of fruit, acids hyper real and just the way they need to be, wood tannins just about having melted away. In a really fine place right now. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted October 2022

Château Margaux, Grand Vin Du Château Margaux 1989, AC Margaux

In retrospect a glass of 1989 Château Margaux is what the evolution of this estate’s wines just are. The palate weight and rigid texture are still recessing up which says that primary fruit has not left the bottle. It’s astounding and the vibrations continue, alerting the senses to the energy of this 1989’s acids. Then there is the alignment with the tannins, almost ideal, or at least as close as it gets. In fact it would be hard to imagine a better combination of invigoration and balance. Innervision churning meets extraversion refinement. Advanced and precocious while the omnipresence of measurable phenolics and elements of concentration solicit great emotion. A wine that is perfect in in finest moments. Drink 2022-2044. Last tasted October 2022

You never want to say that a vintage was perfect but in this case, the vintage was perfect. It seems impossible but the tannins are both present and even a bit drying so at least for this bottle there will be so much residual fruit at the end of the tunnel. Only those tannins seem altered from four years ago because the fruit and the flowers are exactly the same. What rises above, around and in darts between is the fineness and intensity of implosive acidity. Structure in this 1989 is forged by bars of steel as reinforced spikes in the concrete. It may never truly break down. Tasted March 2018

The 1989 Château Margaux wears the response to a mondo Bordeaux axiom on its sleeve. Are First Growth wines made for people who want darts of instant pleasure?” Twenty years earlier and now like the 2009, here is a quintessential and exemplary vintage, from day one of bud break to the last day of harvest. Its appraisal as anything but incredible is to assassinate it as if it were the Franz Ferdinand of Bordeaux. The examination 25 years later sees a mellow funk meet a peerless and sublime perfume. A wine cast in utmost density, complexity and length. It noses strength, warmth verging on heat but only for a fleeting moment, to gain attention. The iconic wine has reached the first major peak, up a ways from base camp. In this second phase of young adulthood it looks with conceit to the top of the mountain, seeing 25 to 50 more years on the climb. Mr. Pontallier regrets he won’t be around to taste this wine at full maturity. Moi aussi. The fruit lingers in its full, original state, from the moment it passes lips and for minutes onward. Violets trump roses. Château Margaux 1989 is from a vintage that offers the blessing of ethereal balance. Hear her sing, “Ich heisse Superfantastisch!” Tasted April 2014

Domaines Clarence Dillon in Toronto November 2022

With Guillaume Alexandre Marx , Commercial Manager and Jean Philippe Delmas, GM of Château Haut Brion

Château Quintus 2012, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Quintus, as in “fifthly,” denoting that which has to do with fives. Going back to 2012 this would be the second vintage of the now cabernet franc dominated right banker with a red currant profile for a wine that is Haut-Brion’s fifth child. Knows where it stands in the pecking order behind top growths HB and La Mission Haut-Brion under the auspices of Domaines Clarence Dillon and out of the merger between the former Château Tertre-Daugay and Château L’ArRosée. It was actually merlot based back in 2012 (at 80 percent) and it shows in the savoury, minty cool verdancy that still today directs its behaviour. Also suave and of a vague sweetness for a wine that today seems like it was always wise beyond its years. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted November 2022

Château Quintus Le Dragon De Quintus 2012, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

As much a “Villages” expression as it is a second wine from a property sectioned and delegating fruit purposefully this way. Takes its name from the dragon statue that towers above the terroir of Saint-Émilion, perched high upon the promontory where the estate is located. A more stretched and elastic iteration of merlot and Quintus from that era with freshness just about as impressive as the more prominent sibling is showing at this stage. A transformative viewing in retrospect that speaks to great work put in early in this estate’s tenure. Obviously a pursuit of Saint-Émilion quality and not something most people might be aware of. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted November 2022

Château La Mission Haut-Brion Grand Cru Classé De Graves 2012, AC Pessac Léognan

All five Bordeaux grapes interact and intertwine for what was clearly set up in the most generous of 2012 ways from that high (15 percent) alcohol vintage. Now fully settled into its skin, flesh and big bones for a Bordeaux truly representative of the musculature and power that Pessac-Léognan will show, compounded in a bigger vintage. In a great plcae at the 10-year mark in fact it probably won’t ever get better than this. There is a slight mustiness on the palate so just that hint of fault but seeing past it is not a challenge with so much wine on offer. Darkest of fruit, day for night, in violet light and tragically hip. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted November 2022

La Chapelle De La Mission Haut Brion Grand Cru Classée 2012, AC Pessac-Léognan

A bit stoic and not quite as open-knit or expressive as the 2012 La Mission. Chewier, with grainier tannin after texture also variegated as perceived in mouthfeel though the strength and also power of the warm vintage is duly noted. A child of that time with elevated alcohol and bigger bones than most, still compact and sturdy. Just opening slightly yet still concerning itself with integration practices because the wood is in charge, of chocolate mainly and those tannins still bear their teeth. Eventually the suave personality emerges, with the sourness of tamarind and currants that (20-ish percent) of merlot and splashes of cabernet franc provide to the sweet Cassis of cabernet sauvignon. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2022

Château Haut Brion Premier Grand Cru Classé 2012, AC Pessac-Léognan

Highly perfumed vintage, much more so than La Mission or La Chapelle de la Mission, namely because of highly impressive stature borne from top drop concentration. An extraordinary spice masala of aromas and each nose brings a return to violets and roses. Impeccable balance between fruit and structure, first and foremost because of terroir but also the mastery of pre-aging assemblage. The spices have integrated and aged well, now revealing new aromas, secondary ones but in a gastronomical, as opposed to a dried way. The wine has evolved, morphed into something mature but not what would be considered evolved. An Haut-Brion that will not really be looked at in terms of secondary character until it’s 20th birthday, especially because some austerity persists in the tannins, causing some shy or reticent character. Drink 2022-2033. Tasted November 2022

Clarence Dillon Clarendelle Red 2012, AC Bordeaux

Impressively perfumed – not Haut-Brion aromatic intensity but in the arena for sure. Still some fresh red fruit after 10 years and the key to unlock the door is on the table. Like all the 2012s in the Clarence Dillon portfolio there is power and grip and also a spice cupboard filled to the brim. More acceleration here to be sure and the wood has begin to separate even while it has dissipated. Som time in glass really speeds up the secondary stance, making for curiosities but also causing age to creep in. Soy and mint, still some elegance, led by merlot and a fine expression for the variety. Drink up. Tasted November 2022

Good to go!

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Château Montrose

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WineAlign

A steamy August in Washington

Jan12

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

In August of 2023 a small group of intrepid Canadians traipsed through the wilds of Washington’s wine country in search of the new but found so much more. A fine fettle of wine producers and estates fill up the eastern landscape, fully encapsulating the industry with the experienced, quaint, artful, zealous, time-tested, animated and cerebral. The trip was a hunt in persistence, finding it all, revelling in its mottled and striped splendour, sitting back to admire the people and the scenery. Smoke taint was on everyone’s mind but clear skies dominated imagination. The journey was winding, snaking contiguously like the Columbia, Yakima and Walla-Walla Rivers, working an itinerary through the Tri-Cities, Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla, Woodinville and finally to finish in Seattle. The weather ranged from 90 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit (32-46 Celsius for the rest of the metric world), fires burned far off in the distances near Spokane and widespread in British Columbia. The air was thick as pea soup though there was no fog and spirits remained high. Unwavering you might say, always ready for road-tripping, to reach further, for action and of course tasting.

The group convened in Richland, one of three city-siblings conjoined at the aggregate network of urban communities that include Pasco and Kennewick. On day one we took in the Yakima Valley and Red Mountain AVAs with J. Bookwalter Winery, Palencia Winery, Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery, Col Solare and Hedges. Day two down to the Walla Walla Valley AVA with SMAK Wines, Gramercy Cellars, Valdemar Estates, L’Ecole N° 41 and Woodward Canyon Winery. Morning of day three still about town in Walla Walla, at Seven Hills Winery, House of Smith and Vital Wines. Further south to The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater with Rotie Cellars and in the haze of the evening an oasis harvest party at Spring Valley Vineyard. Day four and onwards to the Yakima Valley AVA with Tirriddis, Sonder Wines, JB Neufeld and 14 Hands Winery. Day five more of the Yakima Valley AVA and then on to Woodinville, first with a blending experience and tasting at Chateau Ste Michelle, culminating at Airfield Estates. A long finale of a drive over the Cascade Mountains, a change in scenery and more profoundly weather ,with clear blue skies and sunshine in Seattle.

Lunar landscape in the Walla Walla Valley, akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.”

Grape cultivation in hostile climates

Cultivating wines in much of Washington is not a native exercise. Most of the southern part of the state is desert and nothing comes easy. There are many vistas akin akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.” This reminder comes by way of Christophe Hedges. “To plant a vineyard we just have to thin out a few sage bushes. Vine-growing is not a natural practice.” Yet Hedges also reminds that practicing biodynamics is not commonplace, but it is natural and so the Vineyard Manager reigns have fallen to 26 year-old Kayla Braich. Christophe insists she is the most knowledgable biodynamic expert in the Columbia Valley. “Hiring an old white guy to do biodynamics would not have worked.” At Hedges, Sarah Hedges Goedhart tells how Portuguese varieties are a focus, especially touriga nacional (but also tinta cáo and sezão) for their heat and drought resistant, terroir-driven qualities. They are late flowering and developing but also deal with the stress of extreme climate events better than the Bordeaux varieties. “Red Mountain is a small-knit community,” says Christophe. “We hope the way we are farming will be the direction of the future.”

Justin Neufeld talking Yakima, Rattlesname Hills and Red Mountain

“We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.” — CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda, 5th Generation at Valdemar Estates

Justin Neufeld finds the cabernet sauvignon from Red Mountain more granular and austere. Vibrant yet one-dimensional as compared to the (relatively) cooler climate sites of the Yakima Valley. There are different wind patterns here and the tannic profile becomes softer, chalkier and ultimately more elegant, with a true red fruit personality. Yakima lends to more “blended” cabernets, in particular as it pertains to structure, also more aromatic complexity and classic varietal style. Herbal, red fruits, herbaceous and vegetal character. More acid driven. Much of Yakima’s style is because of landscape orientation. Here the ridges run east to west where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. There is also the Stuart Range in the Enchantment Basin which hosts a granite soil profile while wrinkles in the central crust resulted in basaltic, south facing slopes. Meanhwile Neufeld is one of a few producers to discuss the fires and potential for smoke taint. He comments that 2023 reminds him of 2007 when there really was no issue on the grapes.

“My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one” – Bill Monson, President, Goose Ridge Vineyards

Heritage Vineyards

Old vines are key to the tenets of quality and success for growing regions worldwide. There are parts of Europe and also grape varieties that suffer from increased disease pressure and low fruit vigour but there are also locations, especially in warmer and more southern climates that host century vines still in positive rotation. South America, Australia and South Africa especially celebrate the heritage and age of old vines that keep on giving. While there are some vines and wineries populating the wet, mild climate of western Washington, it is the greater fields of Washington State’s warm and predominately desert climate playing host to many special blocks, many of them planted in the 1970s and 1980s where the finest expressions of the region’s terroirs are produced. Still dozens of others are coming on strong and on their way to joining the heritage account. Not to be forgotten is the high quantity and profound importance of own (as opposed to grafted upon) rootstock in Washington’s vineyards.

Airfield, Arnaut Boushey, Canoe Ridge Estate, Cold Creek, Dubrul, Moxee, Olsen, Phil Church, Rainmaker, Red Willow, Rosa Hills, Rothrock, Two Blondes and Upland vineyards in the Yakima Valley
Hyatt, Outlook, Portteus, Morrison, Stonemark and Whisky Canyon in the Rattlesnake Hills
Bacchus, Dionysus, Double D, Evergreen, Galitzine, Klein, Lawrence, Lewis Estate, Phinny Hill, Sagemoor, Stoneridge, Sundance, Tapteil and Wallula Gap of the Columbia Valley
Andrews, Champoux, Discovery, Lake Wallula, Mach One, Palengat, Sorella and Zephyr Ridge in Horse Heaven Hills
Clifton Bluff, Desert Wind, Fox Estate, North Ridge, Riverbend, Rosebud, StoneTree and Weinbau in the Wahluke Slope
Beautiful Powerline, En Chamberlin, Ferguson, Forgotten Hills, Heather Hill, Hidden Northridge, Leonetti, Loess, Pepper Bridge, Powerline, Serra Pedace, Seven Hills, Spring Valley, Sur Echalas, Woodward Canyon and Yellow Bird in the Walla Walla Valley
Mill Creek and Upland in the “North Fork” (of the Walla Walla River)
Bel’Villa, Cara Mia, Ciel du Cheval, Grand Ciel, Hedges, Jolet, Kiona, Kingpin, Klipsun, Les Gosses, Magdalena, Quintessence, Shaw, Upchurch, Terra Blanca and Weather Eye on Red Mountain
Ancient Stones, Holy Roller, Lafore, (Freewater, River and Rotie) Rocks, SJR in The Rocks District of (of Milton-Freewater)

These are but a shortlist with many more qualified and soon to qualify vineyards coming into their own. Heritage means more than grapevines, succinctly iterated by Bill Monson, President of Goose Ridge Vineyards. “My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one.” CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda of Valdemar Estates may be newer to the Washington wine scene but he echoes the sentiment. “We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.”

Canadians and Kate at Spring Valley Vineyard

Syrah and Rhône varieties rising

Washinton State’s reputation has above all else been built on Bordeaux varieties but the present and the future see syrah and other Rhône grape varieties taking up more airspace, vineyard acreage and mind. The reds in syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan and counoise; The whites in marsanne, roussane, viognier, grenache blanc, clairette blanche and picpoul. On this last trip the Rhônes and varietal syrah were poured, discussed at length, waxed rhapsodic upon and just plain celebrated at Airfield Estates, Hedges, Gramercy Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, SMAK, Sonder, Spring Valley Vineyards, Valdemar Estates and Vital Wines. The Rhônes are taking hold and growing exponentially in the Yakima Valley, on Red Mountain, upon the Royal Slope and throughout the Walla Walla Valley, especially at the Oregon border in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Plantings began in the mid-1908s in the Red Willow Vineyard of Yakima Valley.

Team Canada at House of Smith

WAugust in Washington

This WAugust trip to Washington wine country was made possible by the erudite folks at the Washington State Wine Commission, both in that spectacular state and also here in Canada. Just two months earlier a full-on participatory Pacific Northwest Wine event took place in Toronto and some added notes can be found at the end of this lengthy report. Three great humans work tirelessly (amongst many others behind the scenes) on behalf of the state’s more than 1,000 wineries, large and small. Keep in mind that Washington is the second-largest wine producing state in the United States, with over 1,050 wineries making over 17 million cases of wine, contributing more than $8 billion in annual in-state economic impact. That is a profound breadth of ground to cover for the small WSWC team. Chris Stone is Deputy Director and Kate Salisbury is International Marketing Manager. Chaperones Salisbury and Claudie Lamoureux of Washington State Wine for Canada were charged with the on point, on time task for five fulfilling and over-achieving days. Hard to say which of their characters or abilities were tops – driving prowess or durability, kindness, patience or grace. All of the above and it is imagined that Godello’s fellow travellers would wholeheartedly agree; Alana Lapierre, Angela Aiello and Mandi Roberston. In any case there was everything to experience, much along the lines of the varied and diverse wineries, AVAs and personalities encountered. Of conglomerates and boutiques, generational families and new blood, the established and the start-ups, pedagogues and rock stars, boffins and balladeers. There was much wine poured and these are the 135 tasting notes.

J. Bookwalter

Columbia Valley AVA

J. Bookwalter

John Bookwalter was a graduate of UC Davis Vineyard Management program and farmed some of Washington’s most famous tracts, Sagemoor, Bacchus and Dionysus. In 1982 he started J. Bookwalter, making approximately 2,000 cases of white wines. In the 90s he started the reds program and 2023 marked the 40th harvest. Chance Cruzen is winemaker and happens to be a big fan of Iggy Pop.

With the boys of J. Bookwalter

J. Bookwalter 3rd Edition 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Flagship white, Bordeaux idiom, based on sémillon (63 percent) with sauvignon blanc (20) and muscadelle (19). The sém is both anchor and driver, dominating the aromatics and that speaks to how well this has been managed and blended. They keep the faith, act as catalyst for integration of both the varietal trilogy and the wood. John Bookwalter was known to say “choose your wood like you would choose a picture frame.” Equally important is the creation of consequence between flowing grace and bracing tension. Good strong mid-palate, tight and focused, length is outstanding. Proper flagship appellative white blend. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Merlot Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Mainly merlot but not exclusively, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc for good support, measure and spice. The oak is noticed, the tannins powdery yet silky enough to make this über sippable. Still a bit gangly to be honest with some white peppery piques on the aromatics and so another year will surely send this merlot to be in a place it was intended to be. A few grams of residual sugar plump it up and then chocolate, a next effect by barrel aging which only serves to make this a truly silken, creamy and yet acid retentive red wine. Produces up to 1,500 cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Conflict 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Conflict, aged on lees, bottled 18 months after harvest. A great vintage save for some smoke that drifted in from fires all over the west, though really less dramatic here in the Columbia Valley than many other places. Pretty taut red that has not yet released its true aromatic charm, in fact it could be another 18 months before that really begins. The Readers Merlot is a much earlier proposition and the more diverse varietal meets barrel make-up with style intendment to make this a more structured and powerfully restrained merlot-dominant proprietary blend. Good yields though and a juiciness here that says the type of acidity in Conflict is quite different to that of Readers. This shows real potential, luxe as it is and all parts are prepared thoughtfully, with blood sweat and tears, yet neither by pretence nor blind ambition. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Rounded out by five percent syrah and petit verdot, with thanks to a most important grower/vineyard, that being Dionysus. A richer, thicker and more unctuous red (as compared to merlot) but fruit concentration is on par. That said the warmer Dionysus site can’t help but deliver this kind of glycerin viscosity and so the blackberry-Cassis dominance will not be denied. Can’t miss the silky syrah and petit verdot depth that put this in the kind of red best defined as full and substantial. Refined and finessed enough, never overarching or reaching, best now and for a few to five years forward. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Protagonist 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Change of pace, in a way, from Conflict to Protagonist because for the first time there is an Italian (think Bolgheri) like stylistic coming through. Dusty, chalky and powdery tannins are evident, even in the face of fulsome and concentrated fruit. Juicy to the nth degree, ridiculously delicious and then a chocolate plus espresso crema all over the back end. The cumulative effect by fruit, terroir, climate and barrel aging make this climb to a rich and creamy finale pretty much unavoidable. Some sweetness follows and after some REM sleep there will be a long, melodic and jangling future for this Columbia Valley red. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vic Palencia

Palencia

Victor (Vic) Palencia’s grandfather was a first generation immigrant from Spain (to Mexico) and he is first gen. American, so the symmetry, from Valencia to Palencia, is something to hang a northwest hat on. Vic started in Walla Walla in 2012 after taking a flyer and to realize a dream. As a first generation immigrant it cements the legally forming “sueno” even deeper. Thus the “Monarcha” brand, “earning my wings,” says Vic. “If you drink two bottles, cabernet and merlot side by side, you can fly.” A symbol for lifestyle, easy drinking wines and then the Palencia label, more serious, exulting Washington State’s diversity of grape varieties grown. The label depicts his father holding a shovel, “always working the land.” Palencia is located in Kennewick.

Godello foreground, background Vic Palencia

Palencia Sparkling Albariño

Charmat method, sweet and salty, like nuts and caramel corn but leaner and tighter as per the grace by variety. Simple stuff with good energy. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Says Columbia Valley but really should be called Ancient Lakes located in northwest Washington. But Columbia is more recognizable and so here we are. If it smells like albariño and tastes like albariño well, you know the rest but truthfully this is a less herbaceous and more mineral example. And so Ancient Lakes it is. The terroir is hardpan calcareous limestone, good for drainage and reduction of hydric stress with sandy loam of up to 19 inches above. Pretty good albariño for dessert lands so far from a coast – but the place is definitely the reason. Nice little CO2 buzz about it as well which is so varietally correct. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Malbec Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From Vic Palencia and family in Kennewick with Columbia Valley fruit, 14 months in wood. Nice little char and smoulder on sweetly salty and sour-edged fruit. Higher acidity than many malbecs and also valley wines so this wants and needs food. Mojo bowl anyone? Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Cabernet Sauvignon Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From the Richland Hills in the Columbia Valley where thicker skins and high quality fruit translate to unction and developed tannin. Cassis and Ribena mix, tart and candy hearts sour, in a good place right here and right now. Some powder in those tannins but resolution is just about complete. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Petit Verdot 2017, Wahluke Slope AVA

Part of the El Viñador line which is essentially Reserve style but the name is more specific and indicative of what it means to grow and make these kinds of varietal wines. From fruit grown on the Wahluke Slope AVA. Structure and mouthfeel justify the reasoning and the result, especially the tannic intensity and power at the yet to relent finish. Wood thickens, spices and sweetens the last third of this petit verdot which is really unlike any other, grown anywhere and produced as a solo artist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Syrah El Viñador 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Red Mountain fruit and signature varietal effort but also style that Palencia seems most comfortable with. This is because the balance, restraint and finesse are at their collective finest in this kind of handsome and sturdy wine. Still some chalky and powdery tannin but overall the harmony and seamlessness are pretty spot on. Ready to go and please. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Top notch Paella at Palencia

Palencia Carmenère 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Sourced from the hottest region in Washington, that being Red Mountain and picked quite late. Nothing green about this carmenère, in fact it’s fruit and wood are thick as thieves, the tannins silken and the capsicum or jalapeño non-existent. Chewy like chocolate liquorice and very much a wine made for those who like it rich, luxe and thick. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño El Viñador 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The founding vineyard for albariño at Palencia’s reserve line is as advertised more concentrated, focused and finessed. From various harvests each fermented separately for 30 days in Hungarian oak puncheons then blended together before bottling. Aiming for a Galician style though truth be told you can take the albariño out of Galicia but you can’t take the Columbia Valley out of this albariño. Warm, rich and unctuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Tirriddis Boys – Matthew Doutney, Gabriel Crowell and Andrew Gerow

Tirriddis

Tirage … Riddle … Disgorge. Tirriddis, acronym of sorts for three sparkling wine producing friends (Andrew Gerow, Gabriel Crowell, and Matthew Doutney) who celebrated the end of school with Gimonnet and Janz Champagne, fried chicken and chips. All attended Washington State University for viticulture and oenology. Their collective motto is “if we fail, we can always move back in with our parents. “Wine is a super architectural art form,” explains Gerow. “We’re really just trying to define Washington – defining typicality that really doesn’t exist yet.” First base wine were made in the Fall of 2020.

Tirriddis House Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

House tier is all about distribution, for restaurants and export in a fun and recognizable style. Here 100 per cent pinot gris, creamy aromatics, mousse as well, the sweetest of all the Tirridis wines at 11 g/L. Looks at reeling in a Prosecco crowd that can’t afford $50 sparkling wines. Sees 12 months on the lees and it is traditional method so expect some autolysis, mild oxidation and ultimately great energy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Brut, Columbia Valley AVA

More than 50 percent of the base wine is original (from the fall of 2020) and is essentially chardonnay with a few percentage points of albariño. Tirridis for tirage-riddle-disgorge (clever) and the sugars are hidden behind the acidity. Raises a bar for the vital scintillant nature of grapes farmed for wines that transfer energy like sparks jumping from hydro pole to hydro pole. Similar creaminess and mousse to the pinot gris but the orchard fruit here is different than that peachy stone. Who would dare not pour this as a warm home welcome or by the licensee glass? Tastes like unbaked Washington with tight bubbles. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

One-quarter each cabernet sauvignon, syrah, merlot and chardonnay, not unusual for Washington per se though no real frame of reference from the sparkling diaspora neither. Celebrates red fruit, from currants through plums and this surely comes across drier than it is, not quite the 12 g/L of pinot gris but this is pretty taut and wound for Rosé bubbles. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Brut Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

The second rendition of the Brut Rosé, three parts, in triage two years, of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and chardonnay. One-third each means less red fruit so more of a currant current and the yeasty feels step up sooner and for longer. Still a scintillant intensity of vitality and energy plus some bitters this time around. Anything but a soft, upturned Brut style and saying this is a tasting room profile is pretty much spot on. Just feels like the teaching moment and in turn signature for the boys’ intonement of style. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Washington Blend, Columbia Valley AVA

Everything but the kitchen sink though in actuality it is anything but because it’s not the last lot to be put together each season. A blank slate concept that intends to represents the region in an unapologetic way. Fruity first, of merlot, riesling, pinot gris, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, viognier and syrah. Neither Blanc nor Rosé but a rainbow of multifariousness and truth be told this is seamless fizz, a Venn diagram of varietal and geography, of potential, diversity and exceptionality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

Third rendition looking for pure honeycomb and the guys feel they nailed it on number three, or at least set themselves upon a path to get it right there when number four comes to fruition. Why more sparkling producers do not refer to a varietal sparkling pinot gris in these terms is beyond me. It just fits. Creamy yes, with botanicals and bitters but the pear coulis flavour is uncanny. This goes a bit to herbal and preserved lemon foamy (and acidity is a bit subdued) but it’s close, oh so close. Can’t wait for rendition number four. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Blanc Stonemark Single Vineyard 2020, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

First single vineyard sparkling wine, all chardonnay, small plantings in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, 1,600 feet of elevation, of brushy savour and direct hits of more than one kind of citrus. The concept is a growers’ one – with obvious connotations. Elevation is clearly the driver because this is about acidity and high intensity, all pervasive and above all else in what this site wishes to give. Poured from Magnum, extended triage. Lemony, tight, zesty and just about zero dosage. Can see this living six or seven years. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Riley Miller, Sonder

Sonder

Established in 2016 by Riley Miller. Low-Fi, non-intervention, but not natural wines. Inspired by his time in the McLaren Vale. The initial production in 2016 was 100 cases – today about 3,000 cases. A thinker, but not too hard, yet still a man of wonder. Likes to consult the Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, from which the realization is concluded that everyone around you has a complex life, as much as your own – but we can’t comprehend half of it. “We are like monkeys flying on a rock through space.” Observe Miller conduct a wine tasting for visiting journalists and you can imagine the inner workings of a modern day winemaking production. Riley’s bottles are anything but some kind of toad swindle. They are made for all of us, including those who don’t know it yet.

Sonder Rosé Cinsault 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Trying to capture a Provençal style, 24 hours of skin contact, gently extracted and truly crushable. Lightly tart, basic, simple, unadorned. Native ferment. Truly cinsault to be honest. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache Blanc 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Big chunk of the fruit comes from Boucher Vineyards and a smaller portion out of the Rattlesnake Hills. Warm and mature though high elevations keep it fresh and again the naked nature of a Riley Miller wine make this immediately crushable. Unadulterated, no make up and local. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Roussanne 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

True expression of grape, not necessarily “perfect” wines, nor is there any reason to want them to be but they are representative of site and Washington. Neutral oak, tropical notes, fresh papaya and pineapple syrup, tart and textural with thanks to some stirring. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Orange, mostly viognier with some marsanne and roussanne, six weeks on skins, six months in neutral oak. Grapes that don’t really bring the orange but instead the partly cloudy pineapple juice hue. A wine that challenges why orange is the ubiquitous term because funk and melting salve are not the thing. Spice yes and litchi, also grapefruit and the most mild of bitters. Has that anesthetic feel on the palate. Third iteration of this wine. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Co-Ferment 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A co-ferment of grenache and picpoul, first time trying, served chilled, “a patio pounder.” Watermelon Jolly Rancher insists Riley Miller, 11.5 percent and as crushable as wine can possibly get. Juice. Water, pink, alcohol. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Red Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Mostly counoise and grenache with some cinsault, viognier and roussanne. A couple of weeks on skins, co-fermented with some whole cluster and carbonic maceration. Simple, drinkable, low alcohol, currants and red berries, sweet acidity, a moment of balsamic and charred herbs. The grapes almost combine for a cabernet franc or even lightly smoky cannonau meets carmenère effect. Nothing else like it and better for that. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Rarely made grenache by method and style “as close to pinot as is humanly possible” says Riley Miller. Picked early, 20 percent whole cluster, Western Cape stylistic, light, low alcohol, fresh and shadowy, suggestively if sneaky tannic. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Orcas Project Nebbiolo Andrews Vineyard 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

“The Orcas Project is a collaboration between some of the most talented winemakers in the Northwest and a collection of Orcas Island artists. The idea to combine these two groups of people was born on the island and continues to expand throughout the Northwest. Each winemaker that is part of The Orcas Project is paired with an artist and represented by a different label.” Riley Miller’s is pseudo carbonic for which 50 per cent whole cluster is added back on top – makes for a grippy if light and effusive style. Cherry, candy apple and onion skin. Picked early as if for Rosé and frankly reminds of Cerasuolo. Fine bitters, good balance and a bit of roasted nightshade char. Cinnamon heart finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Kinnikinick Red

Chateau Ste Michelle

Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington State’s oldest winery, and many of Washington’s most famed winemakers got their start with the Estate. Ste Michelle is also the largest producer of Riesling in the world, and has winemaking partnerships with two international vintners: Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen. As part of the visit, the Canadian team was treated to a Blending Experience.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica 2022, Columbia Valley

More than a hint of residual sugar yet the driest style for CSM and though the relationship is with Ernie Loosen this is not Mosel style. Fruit is sourced primarily from the Evergreen Vineyard to bring Eroica into its proverbial and ironic sweet spot. The “hero” is in ode to the winery’s varietal roots and a Beethoven reference. Bit of residual CO2, high acid and truly tart. Balanced vintage, vital and energy elevating. Will be one of Eroica’s better agers. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Indian Wells 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Much like Eroica there is a residual CO2 buzz and at least twice if not three times the number (here eat 30 g/L) of residual sugar. Quite rich, luxe and opulent with just a few sites left to create this round and sweet style. High Kabinett or low Spätlese in a sense but without the supporting acid. More Mosel here and yet also quite a lot more phenolics and tonic. For a consumer that likes sweet wines but can be drawn into riesling, followed by some less sweet varietal examples. Some wine producing and drinking habits never die. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Relatively rich and luxe chardonnay style, sweetly buttery, soft and creamy. No real bite but just easy, amenable and though considered a cooler spot with better acidity than some it’s still as round as chardonnay gets. Softens more and more as it slides down and feeds away. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Indian Wells 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Reds are the main focus at Indian Wells and while the style is opulence, this cabernet sauvignon is surely designed to be consumed ASAP. Tannins are present yet sweetly soft and wood soaks up everything, then returns it with semi-sweet chocolate. A quarter is new American oak and 20 percent is French. Soft with some sweetness, macerated plums and that ever pervasive chocolate. Hugely consumer friendly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

A third new French and seven percent American wood truly sheathes, thickness and wraps merlot up in a nurturing flannel blanket for merlot that has softened into an almost ideal drinking state. The 2016 was much more tannic and though some omnipresent balsamic shows here it’s more reduced, sweeter and less high-toned. Lower acid here, at 4.8. Warm and caressing vintage for the palate and our emotions. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Cold Creek Vineyard is a very successful vintage for cabernet sauvignon, more finely tannic and higher in acid than 2016. The energy is special, the harmony between fruit, acid, tannin and wood far superior to other seasons and also other growing sites. Yes there is luxe fruit, concentrated and substantial but the combination of harvest and winemaking makes for an exceptional combination out of 2019. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste Michelle Syrah Limited Release Organic 2020, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Deep purple, fruit sweetness from über ripeness and a clarity or cleansing feeling for naturally curated and orchestrated syrah. So profoundly bright new world in style and effect, delicious to the nth degree and openly gratifying. Drink up. Tasted June 2023

14 Hands Winery

14 Hands

Chateau Ste Michelle property located in Prosser.

14 Hands Pinot Gris 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Clean, fresh, soda feel that puts the style in gris though there’s not much separating it from grigio, either from the Columbia Valley or across the pond delle Venezie. Vague melon and honeyed flower blossoms but when all is said and done this easiest to get at pinot gris from the grand Columbia Valley is a simple glass of white ubiquity. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Roussanne Marsanne The Reserve 2022, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

Crisp Rhône white blend with a small percentage of wood to give it a wisp of smoulder that combines with some lees stirring for a creamy mid-palate. Higher in pH than some of this sort of Yakima ilk to result in elevated sapidity, a toothsome quality and finally piquant bite. Quite a bit of sulphur to work through but no worry because being structurally sound and very “reserve” in style the fruit and the composure will rise and win in the end. Give this some air, a swirl and agitation to coax out the charm. Just a 350 case production. Drink 20224-2027. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Stampede 2018, Columbia Valley AVA

Stampede is 14 Hands’ self-declared “bold red wine” and while the marketing sounds like something in the realm of BBQ sauce this is really impressive for the price. Essentially syrah with some petit verdot “to give it some shoulders” tells winemaker Keith Kenison who has been with the winery since its inception. French oak dominant translating as lavender, jasmine and vanilla, the latter a tincture that permeates much of the aromas and flavours. Yes it’s confected but also rich and unctuous for $15 (US). Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon The Reserve 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Led by cabernet sauvignon and labeled as such though there are supports from both cabernet franc and merlot. A protein cabernet, meaning it drinks with strength and pairing it alongside entrée portion meats, preferably red will do it best justice. Carries that full barrel feeling in surround of a swell (mainly black) fruit and incredible richness, feeling like sweetness, but the wine is bone dry. Wood resin, syrups, up and into a whole other level of concentration. The most refined and luxurious of the 14 Hands reds (or whites) that competes with top Washington and also some heavier priced California examples. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Goose Cap AVA at Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Gap AVA

Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Ridge in Richland and adjacent to Red Mountain is unique in that it is the owner of its own (Goose Gap) AVA, approved three years ago. The first planting of cabernet sauvignon was 25 years ago in 1998 and today there are a total of 2,500 acres of vines. The Monson family dates back to the early 1900s when M.L. Monson brought his family to the Yakima Valley. Taylor is the fourth generation, dad and two sisters (Bill, Molly and Valerie) are the third. The family is equally famous for cultivating Cosmic Crisp Apples (that don’t brown), developed with Washington State University and the first to grow them. The visit in the vines and through the facility culminated in a quick tasting of four wines though the setting was not conducive to formulating proper tasting notes.

Red Mountain

Col Solare

Located on Antinori Road in Benton City is the Château Ste Michelle Red Mountain partnership with Tuscany’s most famous family. A tour with Col Solare’s hospitality team reveals the bond with the mothership. “Antinori dictates what we do and the style of wines they want us to make.” There are no problems, only solutions and fixing issues like re-planting problematic cabernet sauvignon blocks is in the process of a three-year plan. “The only wine we make here that the Antinoris care about is cabernet sauvignon – so it has to be great.” The new winemaker is Stephanie Cohen, a Michigan graduate in Chemical Engineering. Cohen worked in New Zealand, Margaret River and Napa Valley, where she met Marcus Notaro, first winemaker at Col Solare. Stephanie went to Oregon, then Columbia Crest, then arrived at Col Solare three years ago. She was appointed head winemaker on July 1st, taking over from Darel Allwine. “Do we love what Stephanie is doing? Short answer is yes.”

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

The vintage brings about three major changes; label, style and price. The Col Solare had been in the $75-85 range going on 10 years but now it’s about Antinori wanting something “better.” In every respect ’19 is certainly darker and richer, of an impenetrable hue and structure. An Italian cabernet sauvignon, as close to Bolgheri Guado Al Tasso as Col Solare has ever been, but this holding pattern will almost surely be temporary. A Red Mountain interpretation from small (blueberry-sized) berries, raised with low vigour off of soils of sand and silt. Aged 22 months, not quite but pretty close to 100 percent new oak. Racked every three or four months, to eliminate slag and to refine, refine, refine. Aids in tannin transformation and eliminates the need for fining. A cabernet of great depth, of Cassis, mint and graphite. Luxe character, finesse, if not the level of fantasy wished for – but this new is the first of the new. By 2020 invention should meet vision for the next level of Col Solare quality. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Essentially cabernet sauvignon with five percent franc while only 2015 and 2020 have been 100 percent. From the hottest wine-growing AVA in Washington state, with basalt below the soil surface, irrigated six to eight inches per year. Early picked and in 2023 this will likely start on or around the 20th of August, to finish off what has been “a really weird year.” There are 4,040 total acres in an AVA considered one of seriously high quality. Col Solare has been growing here since 2011 but not enough to meet production numbers and so six Red Mountain contract growers are involved. The average case number is 5,000 for a cabernet sauvignon as suave as it is rich though 2018 is the last of an era, because 2019 will mark changes to concentration, detail and price. Meanwhile the ’18 is equipped with the finest powdery tannins. Truth is there can be no denying the quality levels of fruit, wood and tannin. All relatable to uncompromising labour, time put in and attention to detail. It’s all too perfect. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Merlot 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Though 2019 was marked by an unusual Spring in a cooler and by extension leaner year it’s a relative thing and so Col Solare has still made a very substantial wine. This label falls under the auspices of the Component Collection, a “Tenuta” expression mainly intended for the Wine Club. All estate fruit, built on the premise of perfume ostensibly if allegedly a Washington state desert opportunity exaggerated on Red Mountain. Intense violets with blue fruits that merlot will express at these magnified levels when allowed to. Still tight as far as structure is concerned but thankfully three-plus years have allowed for some wood integration and tannic settling. A fruit emergence is underway and frankly encouraged, more so than the cabernet, if here in merlot not quite as polished as a wine. The finish shows the rusticity and austerity of the tannins while the quality of the chocolate is nothing if not impressive. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

With Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges

“Our driving force is for our wines to have a Red Mountain quality,” is basically the first sentence uttered by proprietor Christophe Hedges. “I don’t know if we’re trying to be authentic but we are following our mother’s lead, that if you are going to do something, do it correctly.” Anne-Marie Liégeois grew up in Ossey-les-Trois-Maisons, in Champagne, France. She married Tom Hedges from Richland, Washington in 1976. Their first wines were sold to Sweden in 1997. The first vineyards on Red Mountain in the Yakima Valley were planted in 1989 and 1990 and the winery-Chateau was built in 1995. Christophe returned in 2012 and is National Sales Director while sister Sarah Hedges Goedhart took over full-time winemaking in 2015. This coincides with the first certified label under the biodynamic program which began back in 2008. Goedhart says there’s no formula ever. “We’re just trying to be guided by what the grape’s want to be. Blending is the hardest part.”

Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christope Hedges

Hedges Le Blanc Déscendants Liégeois Dupont 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A program that began in 2014, use of older barrels, some lees contact and bâttonage. A niche wine from Rhône grapes (namely marsanne with viognier), because whites at this level just don’t sell all that much. Even as brix levels rise the pH on this wine remains quite static and so as an aromatic white this remains pungently salty and avoids the starchy. Richer than expected and dutifully harmonious, clearly a wine of class, beauty and understatement. Lemon and orange peel, really nutty and slightly toasty, with only 400-500 cases made from just one hectare. It will change a lot and get brinier and brinier, becoming even better with stronger aged cheeses and many things cured. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Wines CMS Made With Organic Grapes 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The “American” version label, minimally sulphured and just bottled a week ago. A “farm” style wine, crunchy and sitting right there with a local sense of terroir, northwest, Columbia Valley, very different than what comes from Red Mountain. That said it has more Red Mountain fruit than Columbia Valley. The blend is 48 percent cabernet sauvignon, (44) merlot and (8) syrah, subjected to very, very little new wood. Fresh and clean with an iodine and wet concrete note, almost Western Cape in style. Spice and intensity speak about house style with a broad stroke on a painted picture. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Wine 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A blend off all the vineyards on Red Mountain (Hedges, Jolet, Bel’Villa, Magdalena and Les Gosses), berries about half the size of what comes from Columbia Valley. A higher pH place with less water conversion and more evaporation. Yields are smaller by half and extraction levels the opposite with thicker skins and when ripe, also crunchier seeds. The ’21 blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, (26) merlot, (9) syrah, (6) cabernet franc, (3) malbec and (1) petit verdot. Aged in 62 percent American and (38) French wood. Rich, luxe, concentrated and fixated on its home, that being these five blocks on the Red and frankly the palate feels intoxicated or anesthetized by the command of attention and purpose dictated by place. A top vintage, without a doubt. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Le Haute Cuvée 2018, Red Mountain AVA

This is 99.77 percent cabernet sauvignon and the rest, well does it matter? A cuvée that goes back to 1987 and here a Hedges professed, native ferment instructed great vintage. Lots of different cabernet sauvignon components make up this prominent and confident biodynamic wine. Red to black fruit, a noted brininess, higher acidity, seemingly lower pH, saltiness and dusty Christmas spice. The potential here runs long and deep, without weight and still some iodine, balsamic and minty freshness. Shot of espresso conclusion that speaks to another level of tannic dust and combust. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Touriga Nacional 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Quite possibly the future of Red Mountain, at least for Hedges, having planted three Portuguese grapes some time ago. Their heat resistance and ability to adapt preps them for next level climate extreme to come. Aged in 100 percent neutral American barrels and coming away liquid chalky, dark and feigning vague sweetness. Drips and oozes with Red Mountain iron, iodine and though truly opaque, there is this transparency of pace and place that cannot be hidden. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

No mention of Hedges on the front label but instead Anne-Marie’s family name because you have to respect your history. And the vineyard is hers, planted in 2006 then certified biodynamic in 2019. A block that winemaker Sarah Goedhart runs through with several different picks, some falling on one side and some on the stylistic other, than blended back in together. Its richness is anything but gratuitous, the depth descendent and built upon the idea or concept of gravitas. Full, complete and a most satisfying mouthful. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Rich, thick and finely layered syrah from the distinct entity that is Red Mountain with its not to be missed meaty, mineral, sanguine, ferric rich, red earth character. There is an underlying chalkiness here and one that will surely determine a long life ahead, as witnessed by the linger and hang around ability of of a syrah on a clear and present mission. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Le Rosé Les Gosses Vineyard 2022, Red Mountain AVA

A kitchen sink Rosé blend led by syrah (42 percent) with (21) mourvèdre, (18) cunoise and (14) grenache. Aromatic as much as syrah is want to go, for us and so the Rhône gang’s get together works so bloody well. There is a sanguine character with thanks to the mountain’s soil and the movement here is classical, strings reverberating, flowing, rising and falling, no real cresencedo but a softening and fade. Just lovely stuff. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Syrah Bell Villa Vineyard 2012, Red Mountain AVA

Tasted from magnum (bottle 110 of 200 to be exact) and shocked (in a redacted moment) by how fresh and non-advanced this wine persists to be. This syrah is from a vineyard that was the second one planted on Red Mountain and what we are faced with is a 15 year-old block that was so far ahead of its time. Tasting this 10-plus years after vintage feels like fiercely re-reading an old Tom Robbins novel, celebrating the proper work of the past and predicting what will be essential in the future. The search back then begets syrah in hot climates now. Getting the sage brush but now, now the fungi have come about, though not the kind that grow in a western rainforest. More like that which emerges from a burn site. In any case the impression is syrah from a beautifully stark place. La belle de campagne. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Walla Walla

SMAK Wines

SMAK Wines is the first Asian woman owned and operated winery in Walla Walla producing exclusively Rosé. “Rosé to me is more than just a beverage, it is a lifestyle. I wanted to bring this lifestyle here and so SMAK was born.”- Fiona Mak, Owner & Winemaker.

SMAK Sangiovese Spring 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

SMAK Wines is the work of Fiona (Sui Wah) Mak and sangiovese is made just like the pinot gris, save for how it exults the high acid and sharp nature of sangiovese. Still so light and rainwater clean, not quite petrichor but yes, a Rosé that drinks like water. Back up the truck for this glug-glug, glou-glou, grape witches fantasy of Rosé. Salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Gris Summer 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

I mean not all that different than the sangiovese if lighter, lower in acid and well, summery. Light, bright, tender, carefree, unadorned and even saltier, to be honest. Just what you need, whether you know it or not and well before you even know your needs are needed. Salty magic as koan. Koan of Rosé. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Autumn 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with syrah and its autumnal personality, barrel fermented in neutral wood, some malolactic and so not the usual but rather a Rosé with some extra nuance, spice, texture and fantasy. No lewd or ambitious stylistic departure from Spring and Summer, just a bit more grounded, of blush gravitas, creaminess and something needed to be explained. Rosé smackdown without any undesired anxiety or tension. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Bubbly Blend Winter 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fizz Rosé by syrah with some addendum by grenache and a few extra grams of residual sugar to keep the harmony and faith alive. Nice little bit of naturalization in the way the wine sits on the palate and melts like a caramel and lemongrass salve. Red currants and again, coming across dry and just tannic enough to keep things moving forward. Would like another half gram of acid for best energy and more length. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Cabernet Franc Rosé Abstract #1 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

There is just something about cabernet franc that when it’s made into Rosé (and made well) the grape variety is more recognizable than almost any other. Fiona Mak has captured grape and what just has to be place with a level of calm and hypnotism that Rosé rarely sees. Drink a glass, get your Rosé buzz on, feel OK for the rest of the day. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Noir Rosé Abstract #2 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Gotta say this might be the best use of pinot noir in Washington, light, salty and without distraction to cause any overthinking. Closer to the sangiovese than any of the others and with an extra layer of volatility, sharpness and tang. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

With Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker – Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars

The story of Gramercy Cellars began with a Manhattan-based sommelier tasting and becoming inspired by Washington State wines. He sells everything to move across the country to make his own. Master Sommelier Greg Harrington and production winemaker Brandon Moss are the mad scientists, experimental music makers, open-minded and forward thinking team. They are intuitive and paying attention to the extremities of climate events. Fully aware that 2020 was a brutal smoke year and so 25 percent was balked out after remediation. “Mourvèdre can handle it” tells Moss, but “cabernet franc and pinot noir simply can’t.” Elizabeth Tommasino at Oregon State is researching “columns” that neutralize smoke taint without stripping varietal from wines.

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul Pét Nat

Sparkling picpoul, low pH, high acidity, aromatically neutral and boom, Pét-Nat. Left on its lees for something like 10 months before being disgorged and so yeasty is the understatement. Graffiti labeled, an element of Gramercy Park, NYC ode. Smells like chèvre and preserved lemon, minutely funky and well, extremely French. Weirdly so and the yeasty-bready ready quality is more sourdough than anything else but also this dry-aged beef note that purists will really love. This is how you make wine without excess sulphur, cultured yeasts and for the purpose of re-fermentative ideals. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Not a whole helluva lot of picpoul made in the United States and especially in hot climates but it ripens late and the acidity can be maintained – that said you need a lot of heat to get it ripe. This may not be the Languedoc and the lean, salty, low pH style without lees weight or drive puts this in a league of its own. Vines were planted in 2013, clusters are loose and massive, the wine it makes is acid-driven, fresh and simple. Pencil lead, cinnamon heart and fennel pollen. More complex than you might think. All lemon and lime on the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Viognier 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Sourced from Lake Chelan for a cooler climate base and then the Gramercy vineyard called Forgotten Hills in the Walla Walla Valley. The WW fruit is all barrel fermented while the Lake fruit is only treated to forty percent. The complete opposite of the typically recent warm vintages and so don’t come looking for tropical fruit and fresh roses. Think orchards, of pear and then that douse of lime with a salty finish. Summertime temperatures in later September brought weight and closure to this ’22 viognier. Might still be a tad lean but phenolics are solid and balance is not to be questioned. This is viognier for those who don’t always love viognier. Thank you warm October. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Mourvèdre “L’Idiot Du Village” 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Varietal, from Olson Vineyard west of Red Mountain up on the north ridge, back hill of Benton City. Hot for ripeness though not quite Red Mountain hot. Fermentation and aging in concrete with more barriques involved and then a racking back to concrete. Nearly 60 percent whole cluster because the vintage said so and biting into the stems directed such a decision. First vintage was 2009 and along with 2010 it was a GSM-C blend but over time (and as a result of a trip to Bandol) the weird blend was dropped in favour of making mourvèdre, a.k.a. the true Washington rock star. Peppery but no char, herbal though never herbaceous, red fruit strong without any unnecessary tension or power. Kind, soft and nurturing for the grape. Terrific use of whole bunch, proper and grape related. No bitterness, no smoke taint. Clean as it gets. Pretty much ready to pop and pour. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

On the Blue Mountain side of Walla Walla, picked early in most parts of the state but not until October in Forgotten Hills, set down below in an ancient riverbed in the valley. De-stemmed in 2019 because of some mild issues and very much a red fruit juicy, lighter character of syrah with peppery liquidity and little to no sharp bites of tang. Crunchy stuff, relatively low in Rotundun and made to respect the vintage which did not want the makers to keep the bunches whole. Nothing aggressive here, fruit always winning. A fifth of the tannic austerity that the (whole cluster component) brought to the 2017. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Nothing wrong with a little bit of age on a syrah that has come into its own with thanks to the powers that be so that we can enjoy the fruits and the result of great labour. The present matters and yet there is a tension and even tannic austerity that asks for even moie time. Such a well crafted syrah, as meaty and coursing as it is fruity or getable, in fact there are few that can match the wound intensity, focus and restrained power as this by Gramercy denotes. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted June 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe 2019, Yakima Valley AVA

From Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley near the town of Wapino. The first Washington syrah vineyard planted in the 1980s by David Lake, a Master of Wine, with Mike Sauer, in 1987. The old block is called Chapel Hill and this is 100 percent whole cluster syrah, completely apposite to Forgotten Hills even though it’s the same vintage. Aromatic concentration, full bodied nature and a naturally sweet meets savoury personality that is quite frankly intoxicating. Lagniappe as Frangipane, something wild and free, a crushed rock and berry entanglement and something profound. Really tight and precise. “Wait, did you hear that?” What’s the music playing? Somewhere down the Crazy River? Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates

In 1889, Joaquin Martínez Bujanda began the family winemaking tradition in Oyón, a small town in Northern Spain. His son, Marcelino, and his grandson, Jesús, followed in his footsteps. Jesús’ son, Don Jesús Martínez Bujanda, created Bodegas Valdemar in the 1980s. His son, Jesús Martínez Bujanda (5th generation), is the current CEO of the family’s winemaking business, and his sister, Ana Martínez Bujanda, is the Cheif Operations Officer for Bodegas Valdemar. Jesús fell in love with the Walla Walla Valley while he was a student at the University of Washington. His passion for winemaking and for the valley led him to create Valdemar Estates.

Valdemar Estates Chardonnay 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Clearly a top chardonnay site and the luxe character is evident, as is the acid, freshness and piqued intensity. The look here is texture, playful movements and interactions between parts so think down south but back to the motherland and south from there. Valdemar paired this with beets, mango and pistachio – my that does work. The finale on this chardonnay is warm and spiced, a harmony of seasoning after fruit and wood subside. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Entre Nosotros 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

“This is our entry level cabernet sauvignon (at $44),” tells Jesús Martínez Bujanda, “but it is the most important wine that we make at the winery. It has to over deliver.” And so the introduction (with some merlot and petit verdot) is the wine that acts as the entry drug and bridge to the top end wines that a Rioja producer thinks creates exceptional wines out of not only the Walla Walla Valley, but also the greater Columbia Valley. You can immediately feel and tell that a Rioja mentality infiltrates the place but how could it not? The chalkiness of the tannins are remarkably fine and the spicy character actually pricks and piques the palate. Purple fruit, creosote, graphite and wood that will take a few years to melt in. The fruit is equipped to handle it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

Immediately noticeable as a cabernet sauvignon from a warmer site, fruit rich and concentrated, doubly substantial and even further developed as richly tannic. Fully, completely substantial and laden with finest grains of tannins in chains every finer, braided as tight as is seemingly possible. Dusty but a thick, duff like matter, coating every minute part of the palate. There are no holes or moments of lag but only heavy set fruit, supportive acids and those massive tannins. Terrific work from winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla and not sure there is a better cabernet sauvignon made anywhere in Spain. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Here Syrah comes from the hottest districts in North America, known as The Rocks, an ancient riverbed on the Washington-Oregon border filled with basaltic cobbles. Valdemar owns a portion and this is arguably THE PLACE to grow syrah in the west. Floral with high level black pepper for classic syrah-Rotundun style. Meaty, with iodine and charcuterie but with no compromise to fruit concentration. A substantial wine in all respects, tannic and well extracted, again across all parts of regard. It can be imagined that the style will change over the next few years as finesses continues to hone in on just what the Rocks wants to give out of vintages ever diverse. Last tasted August 2023

Full on pitchy dark fruit swells from Valdemar, layered, chewy and ropey, like liquorice of many splendored flavours. Full on ripeness and natural sweetness by way of expression without any compromise or conceit of structure. An earlier drinking example though also one that will do well for up to five years because the fruit is just that deep. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted June 2023

L’Ecole No. 41

The old Frenchtown school operated until 1974 and was bought in 1977 with the idea of turning it into a winery. First harvest and official founding was in 1983. Marty Clubb is celebrating his 40th Anniversary. Jean and Baker Ferguson founded the winery in 1983, well before there was a wine industry in Washington. Third in Walla Walla, 20th in the state. Marty was winemaker from 1989 and today its Mark Trafanelli, since 2018. Now 50,000 cases, increasing by 1,000-1,500 every year since 1989. Cabernet is into its 50th leaf, merlot close, chenin blanc next and first sémillon was on Sagamore, also the Wahluke Slope. Not a lot off new plantings and so the overall amount is declining. They make upwards of 30 percent in the state and even more than that in chenin blanc. The school at 500 ft is in a cold frost belt so the older vineyards are planted at 800-900 ft and the new Ferguson Vineyard on basalt is at 1,500. Climate change has improved winter weather ability while diurnal temperature changes can add up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

With Marty Clubb, L’École 41

L’École No 41 Chenin Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Older than 35 years of age and so like the Western Cape OVP the labelling is old vines. Akin to old bones but with experience, resistance to weather issues and creating high level concentration. Some of the fruit comes from the Newhouse family’s vineyard with century vines, sour rot dirty laundry and all. Clones probably came up from Dry Creek Valley in California and my if this does not strike a balanced accord between dry and sour, concentrated and tart. Just woollen enough to mimic the Loire and act nothing like California. Length is more than impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Sémillon 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Comes across as having some sweetness but be fooled once because it’s glycerol that gives the impression, so truth be told the sensory give is astral and incidentally Van Morrison’s seminal track from the eponymous record is playing in the tasting room as the wine is poured. The 2022 shows some early flint and petrol, balanced by the texture developed as a result of extra lees time. Another push-pull example of a L’École No. 41 white off of vines with experience. Just the right amount of tonic and bitters pop at the finish.
“To be born again
In another world
In another world
In another time.”
Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Chardonnay 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A good chunk of this fruit comes from the original block on a crested hill of the larger Evergreen Vineyard. Dear Mr. Fantasy, pour me some chardonnay, from ice age silt and sand, stones and minerals that when respected, treats a consumer to this kind of salty-sapid harmonic chardonnay. All barrel fermented, all French and 20 percent new. I mean it’s an amount and style truly Burgundian with some tropical fruit because it is 2022 and yet acidity is crisp with green apple bites to balance what is also creamy texture. Middle road compared to the chenin and sémillon but also so perfectly professional. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The original estate red, the only one made in the 1980s and still the one that delivers earthy and herbal tones. The 18 percent cabernet franc (plus drips of malbec and petit verdot) creates the verdant and forest floor notes. Good red to red-black fruit from 2020 with highest level phenols and a sweet, pretty persuasion. A couple of glasses and then the melatonin sets in, followed by a near guarantee of REM sleep. “It’s what I want, hurry and buy.” Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“We have a lot of old vine cab,” says Marty Clubb, which indeed drives the machine, but there no real reason to name that on the label. Minimum age is 30 with many over 50 for a 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, all picked in October. Rich, viscous, unctuous and most important – experienced. Chalky and the barrel brings both good dark chocolate and dusty espresso to the finish. Age this five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The highest level for merlot has Bordeaux Right Bank in mind and here the mix of windblown loess topsoil and basalt takes the grape up to where great minds and ambition want to meet. Huge fruit vintage, thick as thieves with structure twice pointed and the overall result is a big and cellaring potential merlot. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

With La Leggenda, Ange Aiello

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Less than 2,000 cases are made of the three vineyard (Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Ferguson) sourced cabernet sauvignon. Here comes the Cassis and herbal-savoury note with dried fruit moments red to purple and finally an impressive set of varietal meets site(s) circumstances. Averages out at 35 percent new wood and yes the fruit receives the wood with open arms. Long and age-worthy, longer than the merlot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’Ecole No. 41 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Proprietary Red 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The 31st vintage of Apogee. From the central part of the valley where cool air seems to be blowing through at all times. Heat accumulation is lower, hang time longer and the site is picked in late October, just ahead of the first frost. Planted in what would a millennium ago have been wher there were ice age flows. This is 56 percent cabernet sauvignon, (28) merlot, (12) malbec and (4) cabernet franc. The site tends – to more leather-tobacco and here it is also horse saddle noted which is Bordeaux in mimicry. The soil derived from ice age flows is what we extend in belief as being the reason. Why not? Serious character and complexity, finest tannins of the estate’s Bordeaux reds and from 2020 likely a 15 year run to come. Maybe longer. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A proprietary name imagined by Martin Clubb’s father-in-law to explain site which is at high elevation on the south side of the valley planted in 1980. The soil is 15 feet of wind-blown loess sitting atop another 15 feet of ice age flow. Extended maceration is the treatment for this proprietary blend which is composed of the free run portion of the juice because both the cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot showed hints of smoke taint. Perigee incidentally is the closest spot in the moon relative to the earth. A super moon in lay-person’s terms. The blend is 54 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (12) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Rich and smouldering, thick black currant almost syrupy but so high in glycerol and what impresses but also harmonizes this red is its sweet and bracing acidity. Makes the smoulder unimportant though it will always be there in the shadows. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The basalt vineyard with hardened-fractured, three-dimensional cube of rock that breaks or fragments to the touch. Also iron rich clay and this is the only place in Washington State with soil like this. The third of three estate proprietary reds that buds early and are picked late. Grapes are thick-skinned and the conversion rates mean rich fruit, high acidity and length. Blend here is 59 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (7) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Picks at an acidity level off the charts and then settles so that pH is low, but not crazy low. First vintage was 2011 and believe it or not Phylloxera was found in the vineyard. New plantings are helping to keep things moving swimmingly along. Rich berries of three colours, dusty meets chalky tannins and all the dark chocolate and espresso of great and fine ilk. Huge wine and that’s exactly what it wants and is surely touted to be. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“What’s the sense of changing horses in midstream” and so syrah is poured last, with 1+2 percent grenache and mourvèdre. Some stem addition (20 percent at the bottom of the totes) to make sure a bit of Mediterranean black olive and caper note slide on in. Black pepper necessity and more barrel than some but well integrated and no doubt also seasoning to add more of what skins and stems have already given to the fruit. A sanguine note, hematic streaks, blood on the tracks. Spicy and fulsome, a very substantial syrah that like the Bordeaux reds will also age quite well. Acumen and top vineyards ensure this will be. Syrah, you’re a big girl now. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

The Cellar at Woodward Canyon

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard

Family owned, by Rick and Darcey Small. Selena Kritsonis runs hospitality and husband Sager Small is vineyard manager. Kevin Mott is the winemaker. 8,000 cases in total

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, Washington State

First planted in 1978, barrel effect dialled back over the years, now 20 percent new wood and no malolactic whatsoever. All estate fruit with the newer (north facing, refreshening) block planted back in 2011. Pretty spot on classic ode to the motherland style that sees ripest fruit without freshness limitations meeting just enough wood for softness, creamy texture and overall Washington State high caste ubiquity. Truly proper and correct for sense of place and intendment. Vague impression of sweetness says quite a bit about fruit quality and style. The length is impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Estate fruit at the western edge of the Walla Wally Valley, two blocks used, 25 year-old Clone 3 old vine and also the younger Clone 181. The most western vineyard in the AVA, drier and warmer, a climate as much akin to red Mountain as it is to the Blue Mountains area of the WWV. Warm and dry vintage, lower than average yields and nearly 50 percent new wood, French and Hungarian. Pushing 15 percent alcohol yet holding both that and the wood with esteem. Aromatically spicy, dusty fennel pollen, tannins as well. Fine acids and chalky like so many, especially from vineyards west of this valley. Two-toned in all these respects, cooler herbal Amaro notes meeting warm and developed richness. Lots of ganache on the back end of this wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #29 2020, Washington State

Flagship wine from vines averaging 35 years with each label painted by a different West Coast artist. The vineyards are four-fold; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor, Weinbau and Wallula Gap. Nearly 40 per cent new wood, French and American, actually cab-dominant (76 percent) with other Bordeaux grapes involved. The rest are (12) petit verdot, (5) cabernet franc, (4) merlot and (3) syrah. Shows less wood than the merlot and more variegate red fruit. Also more espresso and less chocolate because the red berries really stand apart. Something candied comes late, like cinnamon hearts meeting reduced balsamic. Would match well with flank steak and chimichurri with slow roasted aubergines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines 2020, Washington State

Originally called “Dedication Series” and first made in 1981. Oldest cabernet blocks are chosen from three vineyards; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor and Weinbau. This sees 100 percent new French wood and just three percent each petit verdot and malbec bring grip and spice to the cabernet. So much wood to integrate, melt and assimilate before a wine of this luxe nature and fullest concentration can pour with any real charm and grace. Huge fruit and creaminess, The 1972 Sagemoor fruit (equivalent to Bacchus for other producers) is the experienced anchor and overall the wine does act out as a heritage passion play with age-worthiness at the highest level for the estate. It’s unctuous and thick, again in delivery of that vague impression of sweetness though that number is not listed on the technical sheets. Those who love the fullest of full cabernet sauvignon should keep this in their hearts along with any number off much higher prices iterations from Napa Valley. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery

Casey McClelland is the founder, of Celtic roots (thus the logo). 1980 planted founding vineyard, established winery in 1988, was originally setup in Milton-Freewater (in Oregon). Moved into the Whitehouse Crawford Building in Walla Walla in 2000. #5 winery in WWV. Yvonne Davis is the tasting room manager. Purchased in 2016 by Crimson Wine Company. Winemaker Bobby Richards is the Washington Organization Winemaker (WOW), overseeing both Seven Hills and Double Canyon.

Yvonne Davis, Seven Hills Winery

Seven Hills Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A little bit of everything adds up to a complete and straightforward package of sauvignon blanc that’s as crisp and sapid as it is predicated on fruit. Clean and tidy, ideal as correct would be from and for a desert climate. Chill well is the operative phrase to make this stand out and satisfy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Rosé 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A Rosé of cabernet franc splashed by malbec and petit verdot for what is about as much clean flavour to come from the combined grapes and this valley as you are ever going to find. Currants and tart cherries, sweet Genovese basil and just a perfect crabapple. This is spot on Rosé with red citrus running through even vein and artery of a wine of pulchritude and toothsome bite. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The word on merlot perpetuates because you know the mention in “that movie” and while many characters in Walla Walla make mention of it, well frankly merlot is terrific in this AVA. Especially when it’s made with the fruit-centric, spice cupboard and graceful restraint as it is by Seven Hills. Do you even notice the wood? Not nearly or so much and everything about the grape, including its smooth state of being and gracious personality are captured, in fact doubly so from the warm and dry vintage. Don’t drink f-in merlot you say? Drink this you ignorant perpetuator of stereotypes. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2018, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Rock star vintage. Someone up above or below gave you great grapes and said don’t mess it up. Gotta say that the pedigree established by Casey McLelland down through all the winemakers and team at Seven Hills have figured out how to do much more than not screw up. Forget about the name of the variety for a while, close you eyes and taste this wine. Plush and ripe, all those dusty and chalky elements shaken, not stirred and emulsified like few other. Now concentrate and exult the name, say it aloud and tell the world. Seven Hills knows and does merlot. Really darn well. Bloody ‘ell this is delicious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Owned by the Crimson Wine Company, along with Seven Hills Winery, winemaking overseen by Bobby Richards. Blends fruit from two appellations, Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills for a truly two-toned cabernet sauvignon as fruity as it is sweetly herbal. Cassis and Amaro, balsamic and caramelized fennel, flavour compounds running amok, hither and thither. Nothing black fruit thickness and wood make-up about it here – just fruit, great acid, haute grip and medium bodied goodness. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Back in 2018 just two years after this brand became part of the Seven Hills world there was only HHH fruit from the hills where wild horses did once upon a time run free, including through the vineyards. Important and quintessential vintage for this part of the Columbia Valley’s reds, well pretty much anywhere in eastern Washington. Cassis still persists, as do sweet herbals and savoury elements, less brushy than Walla Walla, now silkened and smooth. Grip has dissipated and the cabernet might still show a bit of chalky tannin but it is drinking right in the heart of its window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Pentad 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

For Seven Hills all rules and roads lead to Pentade, “the sum of five,” narrowed down from six, carmenère included in 2020, not cabernet franc. Always cabernet sauvignon dominant, label designed by Ian Boyden, paint made holistically from minerals, alloys and metals. Grace under pressure, richness without rush, no hesitation and confidence throughout. Important and audited acids, fruit auditioning for tannin that controls but like a parent for all the nurturing reasons. Noteworthy for its stage presence and deft abilities to impress without ego. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Signature varietal wine, for all it’s meant to be and for reasons that matter in every profound way. Not quite as rich and fortified as Pentad but equally grippy and of fine karst to bone structure, both by bright acids and trenchant tannins. Cassis reduced and herbs sweetened like no other wine in the portfolio. Top vintage for this wine. Truly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The “distribution” cabernet sauvignon, as opposed to the high-end signature Seven Hills Founding Vineyard iteration, here a year younger and from a more challenging vineyard. Makes for high caste aromatics if neither the concentration, acumen or confidence of the SHFV. Teaching varietal wine, epitomizing vineyard fruit, health and estate style. Everything that cabernet sauvignon should and shall be for SHW and why decisions have been made for these positive consequences to follow. Proper and satisfying. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

House of Smith

Charles Smith grew up in Sacramento, one of 6 children. Went to Copenhagen with his girlfriend, booked and managed bands, most notably The Breeders of Denmark. Moved to Bainbridge Island, opened a bottle shop. Came to Walla Walla and he met the OG winemakers, borrowed equipment and was gifted some grapes. K Vintners K Syrah was born in 1999, 230 cases, was given a 250,000 loan form the bank, House wine with Costco was created and sold two years later to Precept wines. Then the came Charles Smith wines, five labels including Kung Fu Girl, 10 years went past, sold to Constellation Brands for 124 million dollars, name was changed to House of Smith and the rest is history.

Substance Sauvignon Blanc Sb 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Just 10 per cent barrel fermented seems insignificant when you consider the amount of tropical fruit ripeness on this sauvignon blanc. Fresh and clean, zesty and though that fruit is healthy and luxe, the wine is also linear. The right stuff people. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Chardonnay Ch 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Minor yet significant barrel addendum for what is again seriously ripe Columbia Valley fruit making for almost indiscriminately edible chardonnay you can’t help but ruminate and chew. Fulsome, light butterscotch and an unexpected salve dissolve upon then palate. Natural feel. What’s happening here? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Moxee 2019, Washington State

Moxee is the name of the vineyard, a high elevation site in the Columbia, near to the Yakima Valley. the Charles Smith team is looking for acids and mineral, less butter and essentially a Burgundian feel. Nine months in concrete and nine more in 20 percent new wood. Barrel reduction as flint but also minor sulphide yet to integrate or blow off, some butterscotch but the elements and minerals do well to harmonize acids sweet enough to mimic and carry the fruit. Good intentions but 18 months of elévage can’t help but hide site more than it should. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Frenchman Hills 2019, Washington State

Right next to Stoneridge Vineyard at 1,650 feet of elevation, cooler, frost free, nine months in concrete and a further nine months in 21 percent wood. Yes Sixto is a reference to Sixto Rodriguez who was lost to the world on August 8th. A story of renewal, second chances and regeneration, a.k.a. vines planted back in the 1970s by Château Ste. Michelle, abandoned and resurrected by Charles Smith. More than technically old vines, much higher acid than the Moxee, still rich of vintage fruit but this one bites, piques and attacks with white peppery jolts. This is an exciting wine to drink while watching Searching for Sugarman. Serious quality in old vines chardonnay. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Rosa Hills 2019, Washington State

Sees the most French wood after nine months in concrete and so expect more butterscotch and golden pineapple, compounded as a result of lower elevation in the Yakima Valley. No doubt the most complete and developed of the three single site chards, no apologies and in Rosa’s case none necessary because varietal nirvana in the style is acceded. “In the sun, in the sun, Mary.” Driving chardonnay, rising slowly, incrementally, resinous and substantial. Weightier, bass drum and line, droning in the end. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Pinot Noir Pn 2021, Washington State

Of 200 acres planted nine years ago the intention was to make a single block pinot. Syrah makers were in charge and so the learning curve was heavy and long. Seven years later this entry level pinot noir brings ripeness, that much is clear but also vanilla-lavender ubiquity. The use of Evergreen Vineyard fruit does bring extra pop and oomph because syrupy savour and vinous character needs some infiltrate lift. Works fine if with noted make-up and overworking involved. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

CasaSmith Sangiovese Cinghiale 2021, Wahluke Slope AVA

In 2013 Charles Smith began working with North Ridge Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA where barbera and primitivo are also planted and they too came with the contract. Rosebud Vineyard (88 percent), and (12) Wahluke Slope. Eight months of neutral oak, Vino de Tavola style and concept, fresh, crunchy, “scorreviole,” as it must be. Fine work, representative of northern exposure, glug-glug, really respectful and well made. Shocked that it comes away away at 15 percent alcohol. No heat, so bravo to the team. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Cs 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Pulled from nine different vineyards and this is House of Smith’s wine that keeps the light on. Hums and grooves like a 1970s vibe, Marc Boland’s T-Rex to be exact. Some sweetness and also volatility but both are the kind that make a consumer feel like they are tasting something complex and upscale when really what’s in the bottle is a $14 Costco wine. No matter because it’s Neo-varietal cabernet sauvignon that the masses should choose above critters and California reds with 24 grams of residual sugar. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

K Vintners The Creator 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A three pound bottle. Why? “Charles wanted to make a statement.” He also wanted to make something new from the state of Washington, not that cabernet-syrah has never been done, “but not to the extent that this team set out to do. From Powerline Vineyard in the Walla Walla, cabernet sauvignon at 73 percent with (27) syrah and the fine thing about this blend of moderate (13.5 percent) alcohol is finesse and powerful restraint, a Killers wine that “doesn’t look a thing like Jesus.” There’s only one creator and Charles Smith is not they, but this wine so reminds of classic Western Cape Blends where the most ancient geology gifts this earthy, reductive and savoury character. This is a very good red blend in spite of the sustainably egregious heavy bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines

Non-profit offering financial support for vineyard workers. Everything is donated, including the grapes. Ashley Trout is the founder, winemaker at Brook and Bull. All tasting room staff are volunteers so thank you to Renée and Thomas for donating their time and knowledge.

Vital Wines Rosé Valdemar Estate Seven Hills Vineyard 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with grapes grown and also winemaking donated by Valdemar Estate, of 80 percent mourvèdre and (20) syrah. Lots of spice here, candied aromatics too, not a shock considering the dominant grape and the tart fruit gains your immediate and keeps attention. Tastes like Rioja Rosado, oddly enough. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Given 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Four-part Rhône-ish blend, based on 60 percent syrah with (25) grenache, (13) mourvèdre and (2) cinsault. The blend changes every year and so the donations are also in flux. Major spice, a cupboard full dominates the aromas, namely cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, all dusty and soaking in balsamic. Sensing American oak as if Rioja in style though the grapes all harken the Rhône. Chock full of flavour and relatively easy drinking with fruit both dark and floral. Whatever tannins were involved have fallen away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fruit is donated from The Rocks District in the southern Walla Walla AVA, basaltic cobbles that do syrah like no other terroir on earth. It’s really true that only The Rocks scents syrah like this, meaty and Rotundun peppery but also a speciality of flowers that simply do not come from anywhere else. A varietal-place sensation like sangiovese from Lamole in Chianti Classico, a perfume that is the place. “What can I get you?” Syrah on the Rocks, please.” Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Made with fruit donated out of the Red Mountain AVA and there is no real shock to feel the warmth, thickened stew consistency and shaken texture. Full, oaky and designed for those who like it big and unctuous with just a bit of sweetness in their cabernet sauvignon. Very much southern Washington in style, chock full of flavour if not the most finessed iteration off of Red Mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Visionary 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Bordeaux blend from grapes donated out of the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard farmed by Seven Hills Winery, among others. Led by 60 percent merlot, with (27) cabernet franc, (12) petit verdot and a splash of cabernet sauvignon. First vintage with the proceeds going toward eye exams and glasses for vineyard workers who are unable to afford them. Quite the aromatic and also classic Walla Walla blend, thick, viscous and buoyed by pretty impressive acidity. Coffee, dark berries, lavender, graphite, dustiness, balsamic and a merlot-ness that is truly AVA dictated. Well made considering the grapes donated are always in flux and most of the wines are a first kick at the can kind of experience. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rotie Rocks Vineyard

Rôtie Cellars

Sean Boyd moved here in 2003, started the Rotie Rocks Estate winery in 2007, with no distribution. Only selling from the cellar door and in Seattle. Originally a geologist working in oil and gas, from Tacoma. Was the winemaker at Waters, fell in love with the Rocks District in Milton-Freewater at the confluence of Washington and Oregon. Property had been devoted to red delicious apples which were subsequently ripped up and planted to Rhône varieties, modelled after Beaucastel. Six square (5.9) mile sub-AVA and essentially the only American AVA with just one soil type. Each year a new vintage of the Northern and Southern red and white blends are released, one a “rounded trifecta” of grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre, the other a play on that other threesome, viognier, marsanne and roussane.

The Rocks (District) at Milton-Freewater

Rôtie Cellars Southern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Half viognier with (30) roussanne and (20) marsanne, more than estate vineyards with some Blue Mountain foothill area viognier and roussanne coming in form that cooler clime. Partially barrel-fermented, minty cool, green eggs and ham fantasy, essentially dry so if there is a gram, that sweetness does little to effect the blend. Sapid white, neither tropical nor searing but somewhere comfortably in between. The barrel ferment on the viognier does induce longan fruit with a douse of marsanne lime that extends the flavours over a good length of time. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Southern Blend 2022, Washington State

A take on southern Rhône G-S-M with acid addendum and zest from cinsault. Somewhere in the vicinity of 60 percent Rocks District fruit with the remainder coming from the gorge that separates Washington from Oregon. The vineyard is literally on the river’s edge. A good portion is put into concrete (large cube) fermentation for 25 days, followed by neutral wood. That grip just has to be The Rocks but also a rush or whoosh of flavour that seems so very Gorge relatable. Curious metal motion mineral country twang, somewhat of a Chris Stapleton meets Lucinda Williams punchy anxiety that can’t help but grip the palate. Meaty, charred nightshade finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2022, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

The Côte Rotie mimic with five percent Viognier co-fermented with two different clones of syrah. Sees 15 percent French oak and is really the only Rôtie wine that sees some new wood. Agriculturally speaking it is the method of goblet head-training that makes for more efficient use of sap flow while fruit at 24 inches above the ground concentrates power. Also with winter help by “stoning up” from the basalt is The Rocks’ version of burying canes. Here a cobblestone cause and effect, of iodine, potassium and uranium, three pillars of these rocks that deliver wet stone, struck flint and balsatic tapenade. That crusty black olive sensation doubles down on aromatics and then the palate with shocks to the system like jumping across power lines in fits of sparking light. Impressive work here. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Rosé 2022, Washington State

Namely syrah with (15 percent) mourvèdre but the free run can’t come from more than an hour of skin contact because this is pale as it gets Rosé for syrah. Nearly vin gris, salty as F and purposed grown but also that acidity with the mourvèdre coming from The Gorge. Another sku is made with grenache called Stonewall Rosé that supports LGBTQ programs. Whistle as you sip this back because it delivers a one-two coordinated cool savour-grip punch. You can age this. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Apposite to the Rhône with 60 percent roussanne and (40) marsanne, all about yellow flowers and texture, lemongrass sabayon and basaltic saltiness. This speaks as much about Etna Bianco in terms of volcanic saltiness as it does Rhône varieties so c’mon – this is all about The Rocks, right? This is the launching point for the whites of this place, even while syrah, grenache and mourvèdre are the true signatures. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Big G Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2020, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

Just the second vintage of the grenache from the Olives Vineyard back away from the Rocks district, just recently planted in 2015 now coming into play, likely real soon to be what will be talked about as “into it’s own.” Concrete ferment and used puncheons, unadorned, red fruit high caste and naked as the day a grape is born. Crystal clear transparency, and while many would wonder what drives this crystalline wine, the fact is concentration and power, not to mention depth are all in play. Don’t be fooled, this is indeed a glass of raw meat and red flowers. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Dre 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

From the benches or “cliffs” of Wallula Vineyard, depending on who you talk to, of naturally formed terraces with elevation changes along and above the river’s gorge. The Boomerang Block produces mourvèdre and it is a seriously dramatic place. Doctor my eyes this Dre is somewhere between America’s premier (male) singer songwriter and the OG Hip Hop man, from both of which there are no artists not influenced by one or the other. Exaggerations are key to making sure people understand the uniqueness and potential of future iterations of a varietal wine that one day may just blow your mind. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Bubbly Rosé 2021, Washington State

Not from any particular AVA, “just for fun, don’t overthink it.” Traditional method has been done here but this is forced carbonation (as in Charmat) method, all about the peaches and herb. Peach iced tea and just bloody delicious juice. That’s all folks. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Grenache Blanc 2021, Washington State

From the Olson Vineyard owned by Prosser in the Yakima Valley, also pulled by Gramercy. Made in a sharp, high acid, zesty lemon and lime style. Fresh, extremely refreshing that turns a bit tropical with weight at the finish. Apricots and nectarines after that zesty citrus. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Winemaker Kate Derby, Spring Valley Vineyard

Spring Valley Vineyard

Washington State is rife with winerys and locations as unique to one another as anywhere in the world but Springfield Valley Vineyard is a universe unto itself. It may be Walla Walla Valley but the drive in and out is akin to riding shotgun in the Rover tumbling over and through a lunar landscape. The winery and vineyards are an oasis on the bright side of the moon and a harvest party setting next to the massive weeping willow is something to experience. Winemaker Kate “Crushinit” Derby is the granddaughter of Spring Valley Vineyard owners Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby and great-great-granddaughter of Spring Valley founder Uriah Corkrum. In 1993, Shari and Dean Derby planted the first grapes at Spring Valley and their first vintage was 1999. Derby works closely with Serge Laville and Carlos, longtime ranch manager. In the summer of 2007, 66 acres of new vineyards were planted. Today, Spring Valley Vineyard consists of 111 acres of grapevines including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, and malbec.

With Carlos and Kate at Spring Valley

Spring Valley Vineyard Viognier 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A short stay in barrel lends a lees creaminess to what is ostensibly true mineral stage presence for a viognier essentially borne out of a veritable oasis in the midst of a grand desert. Healthy alcohol just under 14 percent that integrates and balances within the overall master plan filled with fruit, salinity, fresh flowers, sapidity, botanical tonic and gentle bitters. A subtly exotic beauty, understated and if viognier could be expressive of humility then this by Kate Derby and team is just that. A joy to be around. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Frederick Red Wine 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Ode to Frederick Corkrum born in Spring Valley in 1900 to Katherine and Uriah. Classic Bordeaux blend and traditional (SVV) styling based on cabernet sauvignon with merlot and cabernet franc, aged for up to 30 months in barriques, stainless steel and neutral 500L puncheons. Notably warm growing season results in a mature, gently oxidative, well-seasoned and fully reasoned red as nurturing and easy to sip as it is polished, calming, non-plussed and refined. Always the tobacco and dry-brushy native plants mixed with dark fruit and a local savoir-faire that is unmistakable. Gentle giant of a red blend clearly made by this undulating corner of the Walla Walla Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Katherine Corkrum 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Varietal cabernet franc, 100 percent, named in honour of Katherine Corkrum, wife to Uriah, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897. She and Uriah had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum. Current winemaker Kate Derby is current generation Katherine and there’s just this feeling that KD and CF share an affinity for one another. The silken quality of both the fruit and tannins align to keep this 2017 living, breathing and gifting no matter the maturity or advanced nature of its present state. Acidity was and still persists as a catalyst to lift and carry the notions of Walla Walla, but more importantly the varietal Spring Valley Vineyard site. This is cabernet franc that tells you to slow down, smell the roses and sip without any rush at all. Make this glass and that bottle last. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Brooke and Justin Neufeld

Yakima Valley

JB Neufeld

J and B, Justin and Brooke, partners who produced their first vintage in 2008. The Yakima Valley is the state’s oldest AVA and says Justin, “in my opinion the most diverse terroir.” Especially for cabernet sauvignon and “by focusing on one variety is forces me to concentrate on the nuances of sites.” For Neufeld this means the Rattlesnake Hills and the upper valley.

JB Neufeld Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Straight away and without any doubt Justin Neufeld’s is bloody delicious sauvignon blanc. Aromatic enough, hopping on the palate, creamy mouthfeel yet sharp and clearly optimum of ripeness. Harmonic and long, fresh, clean and a finale with a lovely sweet herbal push. Impressive for grape and state. The 2020 was the first (at 250 cases) and 2022 is the third vintage, of 600 cases. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

“I want the Yakima Valley cabernet sauvignon to be a gateway wine,” explains Justin Neufeld. “A solid introduction to our style and friendly to many palates.” Here he makes use of lots of upper valley fruit for a variegated aromatic representation of the entirety of the Yakima. Some merlot here to help soften the overall expression and temper cabernet’s inherent austerity. Getting roasted nightshades in eggplant and red pepper, a lighter or subtle Cassis aspect, richness without thickening and luxury though never density. Truly proper Yakima Valley and by extrapolate extension, Washington State cabernet. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval 2020, Red Mountain AVA

A wine that is evolving into a blend with increased amounts of merlot and petit verdot because Red Mountain’s cabernet sauvignon is more austere and gritty than that of the upper Yakima Valley. Then again it’s all about Justin Neufeld’s “feel” in any given year. Classic Red Mountain and clearly JB’s biggest wine, especially on the palate where structure and specifically tannins come in thick waves, more balancing Kelvin than monster rogue. The chalkiness is indeed of an unctuous type and the approach here is spot on, maximizing fruit without barrel or aggressiveness getting in the way. No faults, nor VA nor Brett neither, no distraction or misguided orientation. Some native ferment involved but not in any early inducing secondary or tertiary potential. This is piloted cabernet sauvignon, make no mistake, insured and respectful, harmonic and solid. The backing vocals are very important, reminiscent of the Rolling Stones if more Bernard Fowler than Mary Clayton, which puts Ciel Du Cheval in less raw, more contemporary cabernet sauvignon times. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023.

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld The Old Goat 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Fruit taken entirely from Red Willow Vineyard located as far west as you can get in the Yakima Valley AVA, up against the Cascade Mountains. A true child of the rain shadow effect and compacted soils layered atop with volcanic ash originally spewed out by Mt. Saint Helens. In fact this is the only place in the state where this exists, in several layers, including material from the 1980 eruption. So much more than the (Mongolian) loess that has blown in to the east and through much of the Yakima. There is a charming aromatic set of tar, tobacco and ash notes, again those charred nightshades and here some balsamic reduction. The quality of the fruit has much to do with the combined acumen of OG grower Mike Sauer, his son Jonathan and the collaboration with MW David Lake. Their first vintage together was 1979, the year they met. This Old Goat is not “an elderly man who is disliked, especially for being mean to or disapproving of younger people,” but is in fact a big red, high in acid and of greater structure than the other Valley cabernets made by the Neufelds. The blend is 67 percent cabernet sauvignon with (33) merlot, just recently released. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates

Fourth generation, all in the Yakima Valley, now with 130 acres of grapes, 20 different varieties grown, the agriculture dating back to 1907. In 1968 the family began growing grapes, one of the first pioneer commercial wineries and the first vintage was 1971. Was purchased back for $1by Lloyd Miller who was an aviator in WWII. Marcus Miller is current generation and winemaker (with Travis since 2017).

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Pinot Gris Estate Grown 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Fresh and clean, baking soda nose, easy, herbal, pear and direct. Palate brings the stone fruit, yellow-green aromatics and pretty much essential Yakima Valley pinot gris. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Really warm days with thankfully cool nights maintains freshness and knowable Washington acidity of a side palate up and down attack. Green herbs, gooseberry and a cut grass moment or two. Handsome, muscular yet not too taut and all in all very proper. A varietal workhorse exemplary for Yakima and Washington. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Rosé of Sangiovese 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

More than interesting use of sangiovese for a place where not too much Rosé is produced and quite aromatic at that. Red citrus, high acid cherry and pink grapefruit, some RS and plenty of fruit that indicates a full’s day run and a grape relationship with great red potential. Almost Cerasuolo in style – from elevation, cool nights and high level interest. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Merlot 2021, Yakima Valley

“A super interesting vintage and not in a good way,” tells Alexandra Lafontaine, “because it was cool in eastern Washington. But the grapes hung longer and escaped smoke-taint free.” True and yet there’s just that back palate char showing up, though the rest of the soft, nurtured and silky parts are highly credible and important to distinguish merlot for the Yakima Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Syrah 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Great meaty, iodine and crusted earth nose for a syrah cold soaked for 17 hours, on skins 13 days. Dual inoculation, 15 percent new wood, aged 11 months in assorted French vessels. Truly syrah with a minor amount of palate sweetness while the acids are solid and the balance well struck. Smoked meat finish with extinguished tobacco and roasted nightshade char. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Syrah 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Clearly a step up from the Lone Birch on all fronts though not as noticeably meaty and earthy on the nose. Still a smokehouse smoulder but this falls into demure character without needing to be recognized as immediately one thing or the other. Fruit is deeper and feels more macerated though this is anything but a luxe and connected vintage. Wood also more in charge and yet not far away, meeting well with vineyard fruit (next to the famous Boucher block) and sometime next winter this will begin to drink at its best. Last tasted August 2023

Extreme ripeness of syrah being, some meatiness and that kind of iodine meets sanguine quality but mostly fruit, more fruit and then that aforementioned notion, like rare roast beef. Delicious wine with a mineral streak, not overly complex but enough to bely a creeping towards and into jammy flavours. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted June 2023

Airfield Estates Runway 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Aviator ode red blend by way of a marketing perspective in 55 percent cabernet franc and (45) merlot though the blend will change from year to year with cabernet sauvignon often in the mix. Full on new wood at 85 percent but also a month of concrete to just elevate the freshness, if ever so slightly. Holds its wood quite well which is pleasantly surprising but it’s big, luxe and bold no doubt. Good buy – true Yakima Valley. Real discovery. Will be in November Classics, though only ten cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates J. Lloyd Miller 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Ode to the company’s founder in a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon with (22) merlot, (16) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. Signature, small production wine of 250 cases. Despite the warm vintage and obvious luxe styling there is grace, charm and lovely harmony in this wine. Sees 22 months in all new French wood, integrated beautifully and just about ready to go. Some 1968 planted vines are party of the fruit source. Silky smooth and there is absolutely no austerity or heat. No ego. It deserves to be well-rated and will surely be seriously pleasing to a discerning Bordeaux blend loving consumer. The quality is high and the winemaking prowess impressive. Coming out in a Classics release in March 2024, though only five cases. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Other wines tasted in Toronto, June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Arch Terrace 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Estate Vineyard in syrah that leans mineral and ferric like few others – in fact the elemental surge from Red Mountain soil is felt in the most thorough of palpable ways. The intensity keeps a palate mindful of place and though fruit is no slouch or second fiddle played, one can’t help but feel the earth move beneath this syrah’s feet. So bloody and a mouthful of powdery rocks. Just wow. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Signature Series Block 8 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Going back another season and into Block 8 for syrah with an ulterior example that delivers a blood orange and plum fruit combination, much more so than the Estate. Acids are sharp, tang is a major factor and this really hits the high notes. Great length as well though without the hematic and ferric swirls. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Va Piano Syrah 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Serious syrah business, thick, ripe and liquid chalky. Some tart edging and also mineral intensity but fruit is explosive and seemingly unrelenting. Big-boned and structured for what should be a long life ahead with a fleshiness that will not be denied. Intensity is off the proverbial charts for a wine of this kind of stature and price. Quite impressive and nearly ready to boot. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Good to go!

godello

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

Twitter: @mgodello

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WineAlign

Visceral, volcanic Hungary

Jan8

Balaton

From almost any vantage point up on the Szent György-Hegy one can’t help but engage in the act of starting to smile and in a really subtle way. There’s a Hungarian word for that called elmosolyodik. Mosoly is the word for smile, but to elmosolyodni is something less obvious, usually reserved for something you don’t do right away, meaning you realize something is funny or heartwarming and so in the end you find yourself smiling. Taking the liberty here to make use of the abstruse word because no matter the moment, who could not smile when surrounded by these landscapes. From up aboard the majestic Saint George Hill and downward in descension the vistas are inspiring. They keep your gaze locked in tight as the vines (especially in mid-summer) spread out through villages and across to the shapes of other emerald volcanic hills that dot the peripheral horizons.

View of Lake Balaton from the peak of the Szent György-Hegy

Starting to write an article about any wine region is always difficult because while visiting said region is at the time a special experience, returning back to it months later presents a serious challenge to the intellect. The Lake Balaton region is no exception and so making headway might best be served by another usage of a Hungarian word. Here is where szöszmötöl seems to offer the best approach. The conjugated verb could be interpreted as “to do something lengthily and with uttermost care.” Sounds right up Godello’s alley and so what may begin with frustration, lack of initiative, or suffering from writer’s block will eventually somehow lead to being prone to szöszmötöl, that is to wax rhapsodic, not forever, but every once in a while. As in right now.

With Robert Gilvesy

Before continuing on it must be noted straight away that much of what will follow is thanks in full to the planning by WineAlign partner John Szabo M.S. and the Canadian-Hungarian architect-wine producer Robert Gilvesy. Gilvesy has made his home and last three decade’s of work on the Saint George Hill going back to the early 1990s. Behold a 2023 seasonal round-up message from Robert:

“Round and round and round we go, following the seasons, the cycles, and nature’s whims, and with this, finally our wines sleep. Our wines sleep, but they are alive, and they will greet you with the vibrance and life that you have come to know in our wines. 2023 was a season of changes and challenges, with great new faces on our team and high disease pressure in the vineyards. Since our inception in 2012, I do not remember a growing season with such intense downy mildew pressure, assisted by rains and humidity which started before flowering and stayed with us through the end of July. After being surprised with such early infections, and playing catch-up most of the summer we had ideal conditions from August through the end of a small but well-conceived harvest. Our reinvigorated crew performed marvellously, and we look forward to building with them in 2024. Pruning has started and we will continue through the winter of 2024. At the same time I will be visiting some very fine wine fairs: Haut les Vins, Paris and Haut les Vins, Düsseldorf, not to mention Alois Lageder’s SUMMA in April. Don’t worry, I will send out notices with details very soon should you like to visit. I would like to thank you all for working with us, and following not just our seasons, but how our wines have developed over years. Our love of our terroir, and our volcanic landscape has only deepened and so we will continue send you an honest, and natural expressions of this in our wines.”

Lake Balaton from the Szent György-Hegy

For four days at the end of July 2023 a small group of wine writers, including Godello traveled across Slovenia, originating in Collio, arriving at the Szent György-Hegy in the dead of night. Magyarórszág csapat, a.k.a. Team Hungary took to the volcanoes around Lake Balaton like ducks to water and dove headfirst into the wines from Balatoni, Badacsony, Szent György-Hegy, Csobánc, Káli Basin and Somló. Mostly volcanic, all so very real, of grape varieties endemic to, suitable for and just plain native for these verdant hills. These are the notes on 65 wines tasted over those four fateful days in July.

Gilvesy Winery

Robert Gilvesy’s home and winery sit on a former Esterházy estate on the Szent György Hill. Mount Saint George is an ancient and little known volcanic butte in Europe’s Pannon basin. The Hegymagas-based facility and 13 hectares of vineyards are poised at this prime location in an area shaped by eight million year-old volcanoes that would have ceased erupting between four and five million years ago. The cellar was erected circa 1680 by the Lengyel family and was later part of the noble Esterhazy estate. In 2012, the renovation and modification was completed just in time for the 2012 harvest. All Gilvesy vineyards have been organically cultivated since 2014. Soils are eroded basalt and tuff integrated in Pannon loess, sand or clay. Varieties cultivated are riesling, furmint, olaszrizling and sauvignon blanc. The place is home to, as described by Gilvesy, “ancient, crumbling edifices, witness to a violent history, but now so bucolic, and natural.”

Gilvesy Brut Nature Méthode Traditionnelle 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Toasty as few other sparkling wines made from furmint are or really can be in Balaton. The first varietal harvest (of an overall vigorous and usually generous amount) is taken for the BNMTSGH in the first week of September. A late green harvest if you will, not about percentage but about properly thinning out the vines. The 2017 vintage saw to 3,000 bottles which is the ceiling “for the market.” Natural ferment, fine lees through March/April and then shipped off to Garamvári sparkling wine house. The subtle aspects of autolysis and aldehydes are shadows and mysteries, never rising to the surface or making themselves clear but you feel them gliding through air, following the layers of fruit, texture, truth and soul. Lovely bitters and tonics on the finish, just there and just right. In other words the terroir of Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Bohém Balatoni Cuvée 2021, Balatoni, Hungary

Robert Gilvesy’s Bohém blend no longer uses pinot gris (as mentioned in March) and tasting it four months later while looking out at Lake Balaton only romances the flavours and exults the wine. How could it not? The appellative excellence speaks to all the winemakers in the area and says it’s time. Time to join the party and make a white blend that represents estate. Last tasted July 2023

The blend in 2021 is olaszrizling (a.k.a. welschriesling), riesling and sauvignon blanc with pinot gris no longer involved. No doubt a botanical aspect ups the complexity game away and beyond the simple norms of white blends marked by citrus and stone fruit. They are in the mix but the herbal tonic and fine bitters elevate the cuvée to speak rightly and spritely for Balaton, the Szent György Hill and Robert Gilvesy’s oeuvre. This wine is an institution now and deserves plenty of attention. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Volcanic & Basalt 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Stainless steel and all wild ferment by way of a starter (Pied de Cuve) from the home-based Szent György-Hegy a.k.a. Mount Saint-George). No this is not the vintage of the century for Balaton but there is no doubt that sauvignon blanc is becoming one of his most consistent wines. A minty-herbal cool sensation and citrus distillate, concentrated and so well balanced for a pleasurable flavour profile while also inducing saliva to wish for more and more sips. An improved wine with the changes that begun in 2019 making for a much more complete example of sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Saba Szüretlén 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

The use of 15 percent whole bunch through fermentation (inclusive of three days of skin contact) on this next and ulterior level sauvignon blanc plays a prominent role and puts a positive spin on the Pixu. More than flinty reduction (which is incidentally low key) but mainly a matter of texture because the palate awakens with excitement, like a child bounding out of bed for Saturday morning cartoons. But such a crunchy wine can almost be heard as the palate swirls and bites down on the cracklings of the wine. Lemon pith finish reminds that this natural SB makes decisions of its own accord. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Olaszrizling 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Third vintage (2020 was skipped) for the olaszrizling of no maceration but the use of a really old 52L foudres and two German spiedl (concrete) eggs were employed and then…nothing much after that until bottling with only some sulphuring late when oxidation was sensed. Followed by a small amount, after not filtering, before bottling. And so the linear and vertical variety is turned textural, citrus preserved and chewy. Like savoury sour lemon chews rolled in ginger crystals. The petrol future will be like none you’ve ever encountered in olazriesling. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Furmint 2022, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Vinification essentially identical to the olazrizling; that is large old foudres, two concrete eggs, minor sulphuring and no filtering. Yet furmint comes leaning and angling with more notable oxidative sways, golden hue, metallic moments, phenolic elasticity and early petrol emission. Feels like there is still some malolactic magic going on and the wine will be a vastly different animal six months to a year from now. Crafty little thing this furmint, acidity doing its thing and textural like lemon curd swirled into mascarpone. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Cross 19 + 21, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

Two old barrels of furmint, one from 2019 and the other 2021 are put together, one because each orange segment needed a kick from the other and two because they were both stable ferments that could marry to make an even more stable union. This is delicious wine, no matter what it actually is or people perceive it to be. The idea of orange upon orange is Rothko-esque but truth is orange (the wine) is a primary thing and orange (the colour) is a secondary one, made by combining red and yellow, which is essentially what skin-contact wine happens to be. As for volatility it is at the edge but anyone who wants to win the argument that this is above and beyond is only fighting to win. In the end 19 plus 21 is forty. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Pixu Kadarka 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Balatoni, Hungary

First vintage form the vines’ third leaf planted right on the Saint-George hill. A vigorous variety, historically grown in Hungary but also certainly here, best produced in a light and bright style, picked ahead of its tendency to go jammy. Nothing here suggests that, nor oak-influence, nor heavy ambition neither. Just fruit, ih so natural and the aroma is the uncanny scent of watermelon (namely the rind). A convincingly pure kadarka so fruit driven, balanced and impossibly juicy. Hard to get simpler or more refreshing than this. Newsflash: Kadarka has a place on this mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Volcanic & Basalt Furmint Rajnai Rizling Olaszrizling 2021, Szent György Hegy (Mount Saint George), Lake Balaton, Hungary

Co-fermented furmint and olaszrizling with other ferments of rajnai riesling mixed in, up to 50 percent oak on some of the furmint and in the end there are varietal layers but vintage is really what’s on display. Yet another appellative white blend that speaks to place and sure there is a specificity that a cool and balanced vintage brings but this style considers place more than anything else. Complex while much more finessed and precise than what might be imagined and also a joy to sip. Acid, layers of tart and taut, highly local fruit and boom – SGH incarnate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2021, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

The most straightforward, juicy and crunchy of Robert Gilvesy’s wines is this rizling of the Rajnai type. Dry style and luxe for the variety, lemon and lime plus an ideal vintage from which to capture the essence of this hill above Lake Balaton through the lens of the grape. Hard to imagine the wine with more energy and vitality than what 2021 has to offer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling 2017, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Nearly all the grapes come from different clones, blocks and harvests out of the Varadi Vineyard. Most of the vines were planted in 2014 and so it’s just amazing how by 2017 the vines were already getting into the Szent György-hegy groove. The location is down left or southeast from Csaba Török’s 2HA Estate terrace. There is no doubt that 2017 has developed into a fuller expression of rajnai rizling but also one leaving behind a vapour trail. Last tasted July 2023.

The immediate sensation is that of two-toned texture, like a faux sweet and savoury green apple creation, a bite through a crisp candied shell and then the creamy pulp inside. Two basalt vineyards, old Tarányi and young Váradi meet from off of the Saint George hill on lake Balaton. The palate delivers a snap of fruit and this mildly bitter tonic aridity and that variegation is due to staggered picking and stacking. In the end the alignment and balance find the first stages of fine accord. With greater experience more finesse is sure to come. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted December 2018

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Old vines over 50 years of age (planted sometime in the 1970s), right below the estate, just nine rows and once belonging to the cooperative. Named after a landowner from the 1920s (or 30s) connected to the local governmental administration. Crunchy as only a Gilvesy rizling can be, lime doused, acids so bloody intelligent and making sure fruit is put into flight. Aged in steel, Austrian Stockinger cask and Flex-Cube. There is no doubt that the single vineyard Tarányi delivers a richer and luxe expression of rajnai rizling but also one of flint, petrol and scintillant emission. This flashes across the palate like a supernova and lingers long after the wine is gone. That is powerful rizling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Mogyorós 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Single vineyard on the north side of Saint George Mountain for a varietal wine but what the world needs to know about Robert Gilvesy’s sauvignon blanc is that it tastes nothing like any other. Matured in Hungarian wood, luxe, mature, rich and just plain exceptional. Full and layered with elderflower that creeps in and out with ascent that distracts while enhancing the yellow fruit. Must be tasted to be understood how unique this truly is and how it celebrates this volcanic hill. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Gilvesy Furmint Váradi 2019, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Single vineyard furmint from the vineyard planted just five years earlier and so ready so quick, as with the rizling from the same place. Anyone who thinks they know furmint and also they who know nothing about the great Hungarian grape must have a moment with Gilvesy’s finessed and precise work that truly expresses what grape and place will conspire to create. Furmint is “well-acquainted with the touch of the velvet hand,” and Gilvesy’s is that hand. Like happiness, furmint is a warm gun and when treated to the volcanics of the Szent György Hegy it becomes the eighth track on the white wine album of the Balatoni. Special does not begin to describe this fantasy. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2023

Vineyards at Szászi Birtok

Szászi Birtok

Endre Szászi is one of the original winemakers of the Badacsony wine region. His family vineyard was established in 1999 with twp hectares, organic from the start, certified since 2003, now 20. Balontoni olazriesling is key, also grown in Zigliget and at the hills called Kesthely which are the Balaton Uplands where the soils mix with limestone. Main vineyards are here on the basalt hill and at Siglikat with other plots at Hajagos and Lesencetomaj, All wild fermentation, only bentonite for fining with filtration. Also natural wines, first Orange released in 2019. Daniel Friedrich is viticulturist and in charge of sales, amongst other things.

Szászi Birtok Zenit 2022, Badacsony

Zenet is a Hungarian crossbreed of bouvier and ezerjó, put to direct press, all parts in steel. Runs similar to sauvignon blanc and here a warm vintage with up to (one percent) higher alcohol than normal. Usually blended yet here we are – 13.2 in ’22, lemon zest big time and yet there is something about zenit that puts it in a l’acadie vein. Pick it on time and you get this low pH and high acid speciality. But the window is wider, up to 10 days. Crunchy and clean, a refresher that serves a great purpose. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Rozsakö 2022, Badacsony

Rózsakó translates as “rose stone,” a crossbreed made in the Balaton agricultural centre in the 1960s, between kéknyelü and budai zöld. The kéknyelü was the first mentioned variety in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so another variety must be grown nearby, thus budai sold. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only steel fermentation and aging, up to eight months. No miss in terms of acid and rózsakó is also aromatically gregarious. Lots of lime here and also phenolic grip. It was first accepted as a local appellative variety in 2002. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2022, Badacsony

Only 38 hectares total planted in the area of this local variety that Srászi also uses but in a crossbreed called rózsakó that sees the grape blended with budai zöld. More lemon drop with viscosity in a varietal wine that’s more about texture than the others. A warm vintage like 2018 and 2020 with high ripe fruit flavours and slightly lower acidity. Just a drinkable white wine in all respects, without distraction and finishing with the slightest amount of lovely pith bitters. The soils high in potassium make for high pH to give the sapid element and unctuous drift. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Kéknyelü 2019, Badacsony

Cooler vintage for the kéknyelü and considered a best or favourite for Srászi and likely in its best condition right now. Has developed something new, akin to petrol but very different than what happens in riesling or perhaps sémillon. A winemaker’s vintage and style, also now lemon creamy against the salty (especially as compared to 2022) backdrop and length is clearly more impressive. The caress is created by wood, 500L and none of it even close to new, some as old as 20 years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Szent György Hill Olaszrizling 2021, Badacsony

From eight hectares on the Szent György-Hegy (Saint George Hill), south slope facing the lake and every parcel is picked over two or three times. Top picks that is and the rest goes to the larger quantity white blend. Does not get cleaner and more crystal transparent, a popular wine found in many Budapest restaurants, easy to comprehend and less phenolic than riesling. Nothing fussy or precious, much like the grape itself and how it grows so easily. Neutral in a way but expressive and predicated on a squeeze of sweet lemon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Olazsrizling Szent György Hegy Rókaluki Vineyard 2021, Badacsony

From the vineyard just in front of the winery, rókaluki meaning “foxhole,” considered part of the Szent György-Hegy. Off of low-yielding vines and whole bunched pressed to restrict the phenolics which can spoil the wine with bitterness if left to its own devices. Next level richness but also intense juiciness with more colour and reduced citrus. Also sweet herbs here, basil namely but make no mistake the drink-ability factor runs equal if not higher to the cuvée of olazriesling. Almost tropical flavours but no botrytis involved. Clean, focused and precise from a wine that all wine savvy Canadians should know and get to love. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Blanc De Noir Brut Nature 2020, Balatoni

Made from pinot noir with no local appellative PDO and nearly all the sparkling wine made at small wineries are not traditionally labelled this way. Just 1,000-1,500 bottles made, first was from 2010, fruit picked late August in the Kesthély limestone hills. On the lees for six months in steel and transferred for two more years before disgorgement. Lovely in so many respects, without malo and just lemon creamy enough to create a true level of textural satisfaction. Really nice without saying too much and speaking softly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Nyerspezsgö (Brut Nature) Furmint 2020, Balatoni

Made from furmint but you can’t put it in on the label because still/table PDO wines have cornered the appellative market nor can it have a PDO or PGI working title because the wine is not bottled in the region. Ferment takes more time to settle in as bubbles so this raw example is still quite young. Autolytic and protectively, if gently oxidative, gingery and of downy feather feels. Quite fresh as compared to the pinot. More twist and torque, grip and circumstance. Disgorged in February of 2023 and so upwards of 30 months on lees like the pinot noir Brut Nature. Similar production number, of 1,000-1,500 bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Pet Nat Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Balatoni

Endre Szászi wanted to make a Rosé Pét-Nat and with no pinot noir to employ it was cabernet sauvignon as the next grape up. Planted in front of the estate, a half hectare and one more to the east, with some of the fruit (for 6,000 bottles) being made into still Rosé. Same picking time and fermentation with just a few litres or so (for 2,000 bottles) pulled off for Pét-Nat. “Quite popular at the lake,” tells Daniel Friedrich and it is only sold at the cellar door. Strawberry to cherry flavours, inexpensive, charming and simple fun. Low sugar too, at 3.5 g/L. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Csokászölö 2022, Balatoni

Csóka is a type of bird, literally “coot bird” but that does not tell us much. Actually a Jackdaw, in the crow family and the csokászölö variety is quite rare in Hungary, with only six family holding plantings. From the Szent György-Hegy, bottled as a varietal wine, hard to grow, not produced in every vintage, perhaps 60 percent of the time. Similar to kadarka, light, phenolic with some character traits that are shared with pinot noir. Makes 500-700 bottles per year. Sweetly fruity, gummy berry in a sense, 2022 ripe, playful and of a charming grace. An affinity with gamay, as far as the csóka flies. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Szászi Birtok Cserszegi Narancsbór 2022, Balatoni

A unique variety crossing between irsai-oliver and traminer, made into an unfiltered orange wine, spiced and spicy, salt and pepper seasoning, uniquely gastronomic. Amazingly clean, without faults, the furthest possible from acetic or bacterial. Just the right hit of tart and textured, terpenes involved, bright, perfumed and grounded. Made primarily for a partner in Korea, about as random as it gets but alliances can be forged between the strangest of bedfellows. It can be imagined as working well with Korean food where kimchi is involved. Sees seven months on lees, bottled by hand. It’s bloody delicious, acids are delicate yet properly arranged, unabashedly and honestly Orange. There were 2,000 bottles in 2022, a year where the (other Orange) Zeus was not able to be produced. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Csobánc hill

Villa Tolnay

Since 2004 Philipp Oser has been the owner and chief-winemaker of Villa Tolnay winery. Oser’s cantina is located at the foot of the Volcanic Csobánc hill and is actually the former residence of the famous Hungarian actress Klari Tolnay. Csobánc is one of the unique and peculiar monadnocks of Tapolca Basin, a coffin-shaped mountain befitting (especially) of riesling and olazriszling. Atop the grassy plateau there rests the ruins of Csobánc Castle and a 360 degree view can be had over the Balaton Uplands. While some volcanoes in the area have conical or pointed peaks but Csobánc, like Badacsony and Szent György-hegy bear a flat plateau. The soil and terroir at Csobánc is volcanic basalt soil with ancient Pannonian sea sediment, on 23 hecatres for cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, olaszrizling, pinot noir, rajnai riesling, sauvignon blanc and zold veltilini (grüner veltliner).

Villa Tolnay Zöldveltelini GV Grüner Veltliner Selection Balatoni 2022, Csobánc

A mix of a 50 year-old plot and a more recent (eight year-old) planting and some of that old fruit went into a premium bottling. Takes up to six harvests separated because of variable ripening. Over time it has made sense to bring all the picks, tanks and barrels together to make this selection. Phenolic, herbal and luxe grüner, lime douse throughout as a seamless account filled with fruit, basaltic tension, texture and grip. Finishes properly salty and long. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Olaszrizling Csobáncz Welschriesling Balatoni* 2022, Csobánc

“Even if olaszrizling is not considered a class “A” variety it can be a great expression of terroir,” says Philipp Oser and it should be added, in more than one way. If you compare to Steirmark this is picked a bit earlier but extracted to make it a be richer iteration – and yet find the 12.5-13.0 alcohol by volume sweet spot. The terroir is a mix of basalt and sedimentary layer of powdery white sand left over from the ancient Panonian Sea – brings that fine limestone acidity to the wines and they come out specifically salty. It’s the combination and yes, this begins rich and finishes lean and salty. Further away from Lake Balaton so cooler there and less humid following lower sun refraction as compared to the volcano vineyards down by the water. Class A or not this should never, ever by used to spritz it up. No fröccs from this olaszrizling. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Balatoni Rajnai Rizling Csobáncz 2022, Csobánc

From a vintage that was too dry and yet this entry into Villa Tolnay’s rizling does well to make a layered tripartite mix from purchased sandstone-soil fruit (south shore Balaton) mixed with Badascony (hill) and the Csobánc hill’s basalt. A lovely entry plus mid-palate middle weight grip of phenols and preserved citrus, well balanced between creamy and crunchy. Fruit and succulence work together for gratification and this easy glide down the gullet. No need for esoteric complexity but just enjoyment. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Csobáncz Rizling Rajnai Kápolna-Domb Balatoni *** 2020, Csobánc

Premium single rizling, varietal and vineyard, from the start an understood haute level of aromatic concentration with seamless transition to feeling the same coming off of the palate. Incidentally the “Z” is added to the hill’s name because of labelling laws and so it becomes a proprietary name from a monopole. Intensity of citrus from the chapel hill (Kápolna-Domb) with a nod to Burgundian philosophy. The two best (1200 and 1800L) casks are chosen for this top expression. Length to the top of the Csobánc and back down. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project NR3 Feat. Villa Tolnay Balaton 2020

A micro-négoce project where Roland seeks producers to bottle wines under the label and Hungary’s contribution includes Philipps’s two-part varietal wine – blending riesling and furmint, nearly half and half. “The idea is fTükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobáncirst of all, for us and for the region, the furmint could be the Panonain riesling,” tells Philipp. “I’m convinced here at lake Balaton, some great rieslings are being produced.” All estate selections, complimentary, especially after some bottle aging because the furmint fruitiness mixing with the riesling’s saltiness marry so well together. The salty and sapid elements are strongest, the fruit laying lower but it does create the mid-palate texture and structure. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Furmint Tükör Balaton ** 2020, Csobánc

Pure furmint from the two estate blocks, only separated by a small road, right by the cantina but considered a single vineyard wine. Certainly less aromatically expressive but the basaltic terroir is beautifully expressed like aligoté as it pertains to Bourgogne. Low pH and high acidity yet far from a scintillant sear with relatively neutral citrus and tart stone fruit. Compressed and confident. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Tenger Fehér Cuvée Weiss ** 2022, Csobánc

In Hungarian meaning “the sea,” Villa Tolnay’s white cuvée, for an audience that appreciates a white appellative style. Always 40 per cent-ish chardonnay withy rizling, olaszrizling and grüner veltliner. “With this wine we cover a much bigger surface,” says Philipp Oser. And still the mineral, basaltic terroir and winemaking acumen is shown. Never a cuvée of leftovers, a window into Philipp’s philosophy, experience and soul. Perhaps a Burgundian style with barrel fermentation involved with malo and lees for a creamy, quite getable and amenable style. Very lemon oriented, like Mâcon-Villages, seamless, balanced and much finer than expected. Would drink this everyday. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Tolnay Furmint Méthode Traditionelle Extra Brut Balatoni 2020

A 24 months on lees sparkling furmint from the volcanic Csobánc hill. Young vines picked on point to make this delightful, expressive, fashionable and delicious bubble. Mousse is full, fruit matters and acidity meets salinity at a point to put this in great steading. Couldn’t be happier if there were other grapes involved because there is no need – the hill, the maker and the style all get together for quietly simple and energetic distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Borászat Winery

Káli Kövek Borászat Winery

Borászat means “winemaker’s” and Szabó Gyula is the winemaker of Káli Kövek Borászat Winery in the Káli Basin of the Balaton uplands. Most of his graoes come from the slopes of volcanic buttes made up of basalt fragments mixed with clay and brown earth. Structurally speaking the volcanic tuff and sedimentary rocks create soils of rich mineral and fossil content. A very Mediterranean climate with more than 2,000 sunshine hours yearly.

Káli Kövek Olaszrizling Rezedal PDO Válogatás 2022, Káli Basin

A varietal olaszrizling from the Káli Basin of terroir mixing volcanic origin with limestone. From winemaker Gyula Szabó. This doubles down on the saltiness like few other – a searing and dual-stony example that so reminds of aligoté in its most intense form. Perfect gateway entry into the grape and place. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Monoszló Jufhfark Pangyér Dülö 2022 , PDO Káli, Káli Basin

Just 1,000 bottles produced of this rare Hungarian variety for which five producers maximum take on, aged in Inox and wood. Growers’ fruit, 30 year-old vines, sour lemon character, intense and salty style, salivating and soliciting the need for more. Crunchy stuff, tart and maximum tang acceded. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Zôld Veltlini 2022, PDO Káli, Káli Basin

A grüner veltliner from the volcanic “black hill” estate grapes, 30-plus year-old vines harvested later, yet short of late to get into sweetness territory. Wild ferment, notable lees effect to counteract the basaltic saltiness and piercing quality shown with extreme direct hit by the olaszrizling and juhfark. Feels a miles away from Austria and surely the terroir trumps anything that grüner should be or at least for this sideways clone. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Furmint 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin

From the parcel (Dülö) called Kütfoi on the volcanic black hill (Halom-Hegy) in the village of Dörgisce and difficult to work with because the grape likes and tends to develop non-noble, as in the non-beneficial botrytis. A full mouthful of furmint that fleshes and develops before showing its stripes and mature charm. Most fascinating wine!! Develops an oily fatness with time to only increase the curiosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Köveskál Olaszrizling Fekete Hegy Töltés Dülö 2021, PDO Balatonfüred Csopak, Káli Basin

Varietal olazrizing from estate fruit out of the village of Köveskál and a parcel called Töltés Dülü on the volcanic hill of Fekete. Richer than the cuvée for sure with some next level aromas for one, of white to yellow blossoms, followed by tart white peach flesh. There is some fantasy with this olaszrizling, sharp, tart and built aboard lemon-lime citrus flavours. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Káli Kövek Szentbékkálla Pinot Noir Rosé Oreghegy Dülö 2021, Káli Basin

A pinot noir Rosé fermented in barrel and no red was made so this is the only pressing of that fruit. Szentbékkálla (village) is the western part Öreghegy-Dülö of the black (Fekete) hill. Massive flavour from grapes destined for red wine, if not in the next vintage, surely the one after that. A 2021 Rosé of strawberry flesh and great acid intertwine that delivers such a satisfying stylistic experience. Fully formed in hue, aromas, flavour and finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Birtok

The winery’s origins (back in 1978) are a merger between two families, a barrel maker (József Laposa of the Laposa family from Budapest) and a winemaker (Eleonóra of the Barabás family from Badacsony). Located on the side of Badacsony hill making mostly white wines, working with traditional, local grape varieties. The biggest plots are in Badacsony, Csobánc and Köves-hill. Production is approximately 500,000 bottles a year with a focus on welschriesling, rhine riesling, pinot gris, kéknyelű, furmint and juhfark.

Laposa Pezsgö Habléany Anno 1888 Methode Charmat Balatoni Brut

Pure furmint, Charmat Method, green fig, creamy and them’s fighting acids to seek some balance. Refreshing, wine bar creative and serviceable with distinction. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Pino Szürkebarát Badacsonyi 2022

A multi pinot assemblage but from just one half hectare (of the gris) in Szürkebarát. The label’s Pi symbol is shown to represent all the different pinots. Simple and fresh, clean, quietly stainless steel reductive style through there are no flint or sulphide elements anywhere in the aromatic mix. Carries some fine bitters to give it just enough complexity to be more than just a simple sipping pi. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Kéknyelü Badacsonyi 2022

The kéknyelü was one of the first mentioned varieties in the area but hard to grow because it only produces female flowers and so to pollinate another variety must be grown nearby, thus something like budai sold is used. Low yielding, late flowering and producing truly salty volcanic flavours. Only 80 hectares exist and they are all here in Badascony. Fermented in steel, 70 per cent of which is sent to 35 hL barrels, bottled the spring after vintage. From two parcels on two hills, one being Basacsony and the neighbouring one. In better years they are separate bottlings but here they are blended. Semi-aromatic, buoyed by lees and tasting like preserved lemon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Olaszrizling 4Hegy Badasconyi 2022

Varietal olaszrizling from four hills, they being, harvested and fermented separately, put to four barrels. The flagship wine of the winery’s 30 hectares, here a mid-range olaszrizling. Surprisingly ripe and luxe example though the mid-palate does not quite keep up with the initial peach and longan beginning. Returns to form, acids stretch out the fruit and the finish carries forward. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Laposa Olaszrizling Kápolna Badasconyi 2017

From a single block on the Csobánc, a.k.a. the “chapel hill” (without the add-on Z because it is in the official appellation) and next to Villa Tolnay. Concentration, low-yielding single sites vines and of course age have conspired to bring this into a petrol-phenolic space where grip and unction coincide. There is some fine and taut spin to this olaszrizling, quite fine and precise to be sure. In the window now and should drink beautifully for two-plus further seasons. Lovely example of the grape from Badasconyi. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

With Csaba Török, 2HA

2HA

Csaba Török is the proprietor of 2HA Vineyard and Winery in the Badacsony wine region aboard the Szent György Hill on the north side of Lake Balaton. Török started with two hectares (thus the name)and is now cultivating a four hectare organic vineyard. One of the smallest operations and one that guarantees all the vines are farmed with special, personal treatment, further reflected in the wines that are produced. Csaba is a huge proponent of red varieties, including shiraz, merlot and sangiovese. This is clearly antithetical to most of the white wines made by producers on a number of basaltic terroirs but the future may just be red. One never knows.

2HA Olaszrizling Szent György Hegy 2022, Badacsony

From two of Csaba Török’s oldest sets of vines, bottled three weeks ago, harvested in late September, aged in old 225L barrels, malolactic always encouraged. No filtration and since the beginning (which was 2007) this is the way his wines have been made. Hard to find more texture captured and says Török, “this is my style, whether people like it to not. I don’t like the others.” To be honest there is something hypnotic about the energy in this olaszrizing, a buzz that you feel by tasting it. And this is the entry level wine because everyone raises this variety on the Szent György-hegy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

2HA Pinot Gris “5” Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

A little bit of skin contact for the pinot gris, half a day maybe but Csaba Török likes this and would probably do more if there was room in his small press. If this aroma has ever come from pinot gris before it would be good to know where and when. Only 400 bottles (of a usual 2000) were produced because of a green harvest mistake and so imagine the high levels of acidity, ripeness, concentration and heterogeneity in the aromas, flavours and accents. It all comes forward and trips the palate with fantastic if unprecedented Basasconyi effect. Was harvested on the 15th of August, with alcohol at 13.5 percent alcohol and the most magical conversion rate in the place. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Pinot Gris Orange Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Skin contact but not all that long (less than 10 days), not long enough to truly get to Orange and yet that’s the name. Still the colour is truly candied or watermelon pink. Implosive and inwardly intense, layering within and upon itself with an almost pint noir character and sensibility that confuses the palate and the senses. How is this orange wine? In theory and practice perhaps but the result, effect and reality is something completely other. One of the most unique wines made anywhere in the world. Oh the fascination and the humanity! The changing climate does mean that its shelf life is diminishing (as proven by an August 15th pick) but for now the present is exciting. It’s all pinot in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Cabernet Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Labeled cabernet but it’s only cabernet franc and just proves that Csaba Török is a more highly evolved thinker than everyone else in the world. Smells precisely like franc or as it were, cabernet. Green in the best way, herbal in the sweetest matter and herbaceous as the savoury beast it needs to be. Wood is the spice and the accenting addendum, not the driver nor the star. Tar and char but fruit is the heart of the matter. Excellent and yet far from his best red wine work. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

2HA Shiraz Szent György-Hegy 2019, Badacsony

“Shiraz is a big challenge for me every year,” tells Csaba Török. “You have to catch it at exactly the right time.” Csaba feels this is a perfectly prime vintage and the style may be considered in a Swartland vein but dig deeper, concentrate and note the specific gamey-meatiness that’s much more Euro. The skins are not old man wrinkled and so the peppery spice and chalky underlay are more northern Rhône if you need to make a connection. This is blood sausage coagulation and iodine intensity from syrah called shiraz because it’s just another name. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

2HA Sangiovese Szent György-Hegy Tabunello 2019, Badacsony

A self-professed and yet clearly the sangiovese specialist aboard the Szent György-Hegy. A play on words with the nod more than obvious but the connection ends there. Tuscany maybe but Brunello? Not so much. The wood is 40 percent new and medium toast, the style high acid, sour edged and more than unique. Once again a look at a grape from a place that’s unlike anything else with very little reference point. Meaty like the shiraz and yet the acetic notions are voiced with varietal and local knowledge. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

2HA Merlot Szent György-Hegy Courage 2011, Badacsony

Called “Courage” because merlot needs nobility and saying that it makes this deserving of some praise. This was the second vintage and the last made by Csaba Török. After that it began to be blended with other grapes like the cabernets. A bit foxy and chalky but it has aged quite well, in fact it’s going strong with nary a true set of secondary circumstances. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

PAP Wines

PAP wines is a small biodynamic winery making self-professed “vins de garage” style wines. It was founded by Aron Molnár and Karina Vissonova, who cultivate 4.8 hectares of vineyards with biodynamic methods. Pap is located on the south and southeast slopes of Mount St. George (Szent György-hegy) and their credo reads as “our job is to bottle this truth.” Their small selection is up to 8,000 bottles, crafted with low intervention and containing very low to no sulphites and no additives. The wines are matured in oak barrels on lees, unfiltered at bottling. They specialize in pinot noir and a ‘Bazalt’ cuvée, szürkebarát (pinot gris) and olaszriszling, as well as kéknyelü, hárslevelü, szürkebarát and olaszriszling for skin-contact wines.

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Szürkébarat Tuff Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

A pinot gris from the tuff soils on the shores of Lake Balaton of just what feels like perhaps just one day of skin contact, aged in barriques, unfined and unfiltered. Unfeigned natural wine so to speak, lemon curd in all respects, phenolic and welcoming. Refreshing and textural, clean and juicy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Hárslevelü Jumis Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

A varietal hárslevelü, descendent of furmint grown on the shores of Lake Balaton. Skin contact, not forever but a few too three or fours days it feels, orange in a way and then again just a local pinot gris. Really clean and emptying into the complex basin of light and refreshing whites of hue, distinction, sweetly natural and ripe phenolics. Almost crunchy but more gliding and sliding across the palate with salty goodness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Olaszrizling Or(e) Szent György-Hegy 2022, Badacsony

Aromatically distinct to potentially challenging with an aldehydic accent from olaszrizling grown near the shores of Balaton. Like Manzanilla with green olive brine, full on sapidity and in most respects so apposite to the salty pinot gris and truly saline hárslevelü. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Kékmelü-Olaszrizling Don’t Tell Mama Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

The blend is a macerated joint between kékmelü and olaszrizling from the north side of Lake Balaton that seeks the cool factor and finds it, but the wine while salty and a product of organic, natural wine and no sulphites credo, well, the je ne sais quois is yet out of reach. Love the idea and the flavours but perhaps an extra level of intensity and fantasy would seal the deal. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Pinot Noir Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

Natural, organic (not certified), unfined, unfiltered and in 2021, a very promising vintage as it happens, delivering a ripe pinot noir. High acid, intensely acid structured and tart to the nth degree. It’s cool climate but the vintage brings the phenolics and also the juiciness of all angles, sharp tang and length. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pap Wines Balatonmeleki Bazalt Szent György-Hegy 2021, Badacsony

A cuvée from the very good 2021 for the natural producer, built on cabernet franc (and likely kékfrankos) with a proper combination of ripeness and acidity. Sweet fruit and that level of acidity caught between beauty and intensity to create some fantasy and magic. This hill holds a future for red grapes and in particular kék, also hopefully kadarka but cabernet franc is surely the grape of least risk involved. Good work no doubt, rich enough to gain attention and as clean as so many would prefer in the context of “natural” wines. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Somló Hill

Somló

Somló is an 832 hectare wine region (530 planted top vines) in Veszprém county, in the North-West of Hungary and is the smallest of Hungary’s 22 wine regions. Juhfark, a native grape that survived the phylloxera epidemic, is planted almost exclusively in Somló. Two modern day winemakers chose quality, they being Imre Györgykovács and Béla Fekete, opening a new Somló renaissance after decades of obscurity. Much is happening today and new winemakers are very interested in this singular volcanic hill. The 432m high Somló hill is surrounded by a flat terrain, formed four to five million years ago as a result of a volcanic eruption. The terroir is basalt and volcanic ash tuff, while the lower areas are mainly loamy loess. On this visit we were graciously hosted up on the hill’s cantina to a most informative and quite frankly comprehensively representative tasting by Eva Cartwright, long time procurer of Somló wines.

With John Szabo M.S. and Eva Cartwright at Somloi

Somlói Vandor Pince Celli Dunántülu Juhfark 2021, Somló

From the volcanic Somló hill, stand alone away from the dozen or so others in the Balatonyi and a field blend despite the label announcing the variety as juhfark. Taut, high acidity that feels upwards of 8 g/L and mixed with 13 percent alcohol to incite this doubling down of local intensity. Salty and the sapid, then back aging before feeling warm and peppery into the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Juhfark Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal juhfark from the volcanic Somló hill and a best possible iteration from Tornai that will not tear love apart. A quality juhfark to be very sure, sapid and viscous, mature and with enough glycerin to really coat the palate. Must try interest here, like a cross between chenin blanc and viognier. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Furmint Apátsági Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal furmint from the volcanic Somló hill where this grape thrives, as it does in many basaltic Balaton area collines but something extra seems to exist here. Compound complexity and interest, fully formed ripenesses and then textures, substantial fruit and a sweet saltiness streaking through. Some glycerol fantasy as well in spite of the sweetness provided by the wood. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tornai Hárslevelü Grófi Top Selection 2020, Somló

Varietal hárslevelü from the volcanic Somló hill and a definite cheese intonation which directs what to do for best pairing results. Only 12.5 percent alcohol but there is grip, flesh and structural hang, so be impressed if you dare. More interesting than the furmint, less oak textural-glycerol cloy and yet not quite the substance of the juhfark, in the end. Impression times three here, viognier-like power and full to the very, slightly nutty two bitter end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Hárslevelü Somlóí 2018, Somló

Varietal hárslevelü with some age on ‘im and a Manzanilla notation now, briny and green olive sharp. Taut still but surely moving along and interest in terms of what to eat (chicken Kiev comes to local mind) and so the intersect involves phenols, petrol and fried chicken and cheesy ham goodness, a.k.a. “Gordon Blue.” In the zone for certain reasons and anyway marching forward so make sure their is food and the wine is chilled. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Furmint Somlóí 2020, Somló

Varietal furmint that shows the youth of Somló with a similar Manzanilla profile and phenolic grip but quite youthful here – yet to transfer power to next level food pairing necessity. The volcanic hill is not one to deliver fruity wines and yet complexity, as you will duly note right here, runs dramatically and fantastically high. Which grape between the two (including hárslevelü) is better suited to the hill and a true Balatonyi palate? Drink 2023-2029. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Juhfrark Somlóí 2019, Somló

Somló is simply the home of juhfark, a grape identified from and matched to the volcanic hill in ways others can’t quite get. Aromatics may not be the thing of expectation but they are filled with delectable fantasy and dream on from there forward. This is citrus unknown, not lemon or the type to think in terms of grassy extras but it’s something inviting, invigorating and shameless. What is this? Hard to say but it’s hyper real and curious. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2023

Fekete Pince Cuvée Somlóí 2019, Somló

A Cuvée from the hill known as Somló and likely a mix of four varieties planted there, they being hárslevelü, furmint, juhfrark and olaszrizling. While all three varietal wines from this volcanic place are special in their own right, layer and stack them in a cuvée for something truly other. And special. This has the ilk, glycerin, phenolics, resins, salts, sapid sways and complex flavours. Truth to the idea once again for the Balatonyi that appellative white blends can really tie the basins together. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Good to go!

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Balaton

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WineAlign

Twenty-three mind-blowing wines of 2023

Dec28

Chianti Classico Collection, Stazione Leopolda

Composing a year-end, these are the most thrillin’ wines tasted in the last 12 months list is kinda akin to scribbling up a little warble, if you get the director’s drift. The question begs, what’s the cause, what’s the meaning and ultimately why bother? Reminiscences are part of the human condition and while there is little amusement however in watching a wine critic taste wines, there just may be some interest in reading said list, checking it twice and coming to a personal conclusion as to which choices are worthy, and which are merely nice.

Nebbiolo Prima 2023

You will find a notable cadent shift in this year’s melody away from there being a substantial number of older wines chosen as having been the year’s most exciting. Not to mention a concentration of certain grapes and their OG places. It’s just, well, natural. For 2023 more of the choices are directed towards hopelessly romantic youthful wines in their extant moments still years away from entering their right proper drinking windows. No shortage of opportunities in 2023 to taste top examples – Of sangiovese, nebbiolo, nerello mascalese, nero d’avola, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, grenache, syrah, chardonnay, riesling, assyrtiko and chenin blanc – Are but a range within the lion’s share of varietal moments.

Sicilia en Primeur

Old wines can elicit epiphanies but a conscious effort is made to include as many current vintages as possible, provided they represent a winery’s best of the best. This is the state of winemaking today because deeper understanding, the consummate use of technology and a passionate willingness to always improve are qualifying so many of the world’s finest wines at poll positions to a greater degree than before. There is little surprise that Italian wines coexist in highest favour if only because the author spends more than 25 percent of a 365-day timeframe in that country. Italy’s long, deep and intimate relationship with success is a serious attraction and so being afforded the opportunity to taste 2,000 Italian wines in a calendar year will almost certainly result in experiencing no less than 50 thrilling examples. A Bordeaux trip in September to 25 growth properties could and should rightly deliver wines to dot this list. Same could be said for many other palate awakening wine regions worldwide. All this and yet overall travels and tastings were less diverse and more focused in 2023. The author is known to follow the work.

L’Etna, Sicily

Act one: Nebbiolo Prima. Act two: Two weeks later, the Chianti Classico Collection. Act three: Three months later, Sicilia en Primeur and a Canadian Sommelier boot camp with Chianti Classico. Act four: Summer in Paris with Lambrusco, judging at the Nationals in the Okanagan Valley for WineAlign, shooting video in Florence, up to Collio and Hungary and finally 113 degrees in the smoky shade of Washington. Act five: Europe all fall, from Bordeaux to Monferrato, Chianti Classico to Montalcino, Piedmontazine Alta Langa and back to Chianti Classico. These decisions are not taken lightly, nor are they apocryphal fabrications, but they are Godello’s 23 mind-blowing wines of 2023.

Coppo 1892 Piero Coppo Riserva Del Fondatore 2013, Alta Langa Riserva DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

The 2013 vintage is the turning point to this 60 percent pinot noir and (40) chardonnay becoming and being labeled Alta Langa, recently disgorged in 2022. Previous disgorgements were labelled Vino Spumante di Qualità. Now into wildly vivid and famous complexity, toasty yes but there’s a crème frâiche and an almost strawberries and cream component. Eonologists GianMario Cerrutti, Guiliermo Grasso and Vittorio Pescarmona conspired to see this age 85 to 90 months on the lees, almost unprecedented around Asti. Has hit its stride, in the right place between crunchy and the kind of sparkling wine that you begin to ruminate with in the mouth. Cerebral wine in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted January 2023

Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW 2020, West Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes

Upper echelon aromatic stage presence, stoic and static as riesling must be if it wants to set a gold standard. Dry entry that sides and morphs into natural sweetness of peach and Forelle pear, almost lime cotton candy scented. From the original vineyard planted in 1976 closer to the lake where tender varieties excel. The elastic extension and tension together coexist as long as Seneca runs from the snow belt to Watkins Glen. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2023

Vineyards of the Szent György Hegy, Balatoni

Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Tarányi 2020, Szent György Hegy, Balatoni, Hungary

Vassaltis Gramina Cuvee Des Vignerons 2021, PDO Santorini, Greece

Of course 100 per cent assyrtiko, picked and collected between six and eight AM, straight into the press, stainless steel vinified, no cooling, no passing go, no collecting 200 drachmas. All about preserving essential freshness, finesse and elegance. Spontaneous fermentation, a year on lees, in bottle six months. It is right here where we are to understand why Yiannis Valambous gave up a life 14 years ago that was not focused on Santorini, chose to return and altered his history. Santorini once a place of summers spent without purpose or tension is now all encompassing, focused on assyrtiko and for good reason. It is the variety to which all white grapes now aspire. Gramina sheds distraction and focuses on purity and 2021 is a great vintage. It celebrates assyrtiko from where it thrives and conveys that all important message of place. After tasting the Vassaltis Cuvée Des Vignerons 2021 winemakers around the world will ask their farmers to plant the grape in the place where they are. They will do so because even a fraction of this excellence will be worth pursuing. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2023

Ulmo Chardonnay

Planeta Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

From Vigneto Maroccoli, The Didacus home where vines were planted in 1997 and 1998. The connection with chardonnay “Classico” is obvious but whole bunch fermentation and seriously selected oak barrels change the complexion and even more so the spice cupboard of this high caste wine. It may seem that Didacus would fare at its best in the warmest of vintages but it does not really need the extra sunshine and ripeness. Didacus gets there quite easily thank you very much and so the slightly cooler and more classic 2020 is ideal for a wine of exceptional depth and weight. Harmony is the result. Che equilibrio! Drink 2023-2028. Tasted May 2023

With Sarah Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA, Yakima Valley, Washington

J.B. Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard 2008, Napa Valley, California

As Trailside Vineyard from Heitz will always do, is it the acid that is preserved. This was the case in both the ’06 and the ’07 but back in 2008 the aromatics were expressed in extra level florals, savoury elements and a charming layering of swarthiness. Five years of bottle aging before release plus nine more since have gathered the necessary elements and when you nose but then taste this wine you just know that it is Heitz, by style and out of a context that speaks to what the vineyard is want and purposed to say. Fine position, time and place right here, right now, ready, willing, able to please and without any moment of equivocation. Might just stay this way for another five, perhaps even ten years. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted October 2023

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Napa Valley, California

Opened after a near 20-year stay in the cellar and just a few days after tasting the 2010 and 2020 with Beth Weber Novak in Toronto. The vintage has not been considered as one to hold as long as either 2001 or 2003 but there can be no questioning this 2002’s longevity on this very day. Inventiveness without reinvention because this scents as fresh as it must have been at the essence of its very nascence. All that can be crushed to express in aromas for which imagination conjures berries, stones, clay and flowers. Spottswoode ’02 defines a Napa Vally posit tug between power and grace while existing in a controlled state of confidence and calm. A wine that gently, privately seduces the palate, body and mind into the gentlest slumber of our lives. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2023

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2018

The southwest corner of Graci’s Arcurìa cru is Vigna Sopra Il Pozzo, identified as a most important block within a larger vineyard already qualified as something of great Etna Versante Nord value. Challenging season and every iota of energy captured and encapsulated inside a nerello mascalese of supreme freshness. The palate is the profound matter of this wine’s supreme expressive nature, with soft, graceful and subtly powerful tannins. An Etna Rosso that lays in waiting, not to pounce but to slowly and persistently keep hold of our attention. No density from Sopra Il Pozzo ’18 but compact layers of slow-release tension – and also energy. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted May 202

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Piano Delle Colombe 2020, Sicily, Italy

Piano delle Colombe is a single block (or vineyard if you like) identified within San Lorenzo aged in tonneaux and barriques. Not a different take on the contrada but one that considers some rows of nerello mascalese whose separated vinifications have consistently performed well (and more often than not better) in many consecutive vintages. Concentration and hyper purity is incredulous, encouraged to the point of hyperbole by the vintage. Would say yet another Girolamo Russo ’20 that opens the floodgates of Etna Rosso fruit potential so that this waterfall of beauty crashes over the palate. Which in turn abides if only because it has no choice or else be drowned in fruit. Submit and be graced with a fineness of structure that can only feel the condition of greatness. Texture and finish are tops. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2023

Il Poggio, Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2018, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

There can be little doubt that Gran Selezione is the wine to explain style from a place within a place, that being Monsanto’s Il Poggio Vineyard inside the UGA of San Donato In Poggio. Il Poggio is four things; famous, respected, stunning and structured to design formidably age-worthy sangiovese. Stylistically speaking this Gran Selezione is so very different than Riserva because older-school austerity and unrelenting tannic structure keep fruit locked in tight while also interpreting place with pinpoint precision. But 2018 is a warm and accumulating vintage and so all things being equal there are strong determining factors for the fate of this place. Highly aromatic, tripping with light, energy and the science of the soils, of Galestro and schisty fragments that must be a part of the make up, from stones through vines and vines to fruit. This Monsanto Selezione smells like the place’s dust kicked up by heels and hands dragged through the dirt. With 2018 in bottle there could be an argument that San Donato in Poggio’s are some of the richest of all the UGAs, but this is Monsanto where destiny is all. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February and May 2023

Related – 16 mind-blowing wines of 2016

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2009, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy

Colonia Vineyard is a short jog up the hill past Rancia and through the woods. In 1966 Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the “tufa” hills of his Fèlsina estate. It was small, built of stone and with a wide brick vault. It was a start. In 1967 he chose to plant Colonia in an impossibly challenging and extreme Alberese limestone rocky location. He used dynamite because that was the thing at the time but it was soon outlawed and made clearing the land near impossible. Twenty-four years later Giovanni Poggiali resumed the project and planted its first vines in 1993, just before Domenico passed away. Colonia 2009 is La Prima, the first Gran Selezione and this look back is one to recall roots (tethered to 2006), familial traditions and passing of the Chianti Classico torch. This vintage separates and leaves its original designations in the rear-view mirror. At 14 years of age it remains austere but austere can be beautiful. As here, with severe and chiseled features though the savoury elements differ from Rancia. More resinous evergreen and forested aromas but also a chalkiness that speaks directly out of the Alberese. The thing is Colonia remains still young and fresh, while the powdered mineral persists unresolved. One of the most fascinating retrospective looks at aged Chianti Classico. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino di Grace

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana IGT

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2021, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Paolo’s first tasting of this finished 2021 Cepparello since bottling back in May is this right here. The frost vintage, namely on April 7th, with secondary buds on the Cordone vines being the source of most of the wine’s fruit. Not a disaster at Isole e Olena, maybe 35 percent loss in total but the quality was high and so less Chianti Classico was made. “That wine is less about the vintage for us,” says de Marchi and so this as the decision made to cope with the small crop. Once again (and since forever) Paolo employs the aromas and proteins inducing method of soft maceration, long délestage and skins connected back with already half fermented juice. The ’21 is a wine of “frescezza” and yet saying freshness does not do the description justice. There is tension and a nervous energy buzzing from Cepparello 2021 and one to really hold your attention. There may be no Italian word for texture but were there one that made any real sense it might be the dramatic threads of “weft” from this 2021 youthful work in progress. This will be a Cepparello for the ages, Buy it and bank on it. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted December 2023

Related – 15 Mind blowing wines of 2015

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Conti Costanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colle Al Matrichese 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988, Tuscany, Italy

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Related – Mind blowing wines of 2014

Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2017, Barbaresco, Piedmont

The 2017 is part of a life’s work and now legacy defining Barbaresco by Renatto Vacca of Cantina del Pino who three years ago was lost to the nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Piedmontese and Italian world, but most of all to his adoring family. For now and wishfully forever there is Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco who will not just transition but consult in perpetuity to this great estate. In the meantime Renatto’s 2017 Ovello from the Grand Cru vineyard overlooking the Tanaro River is sumptuous, silken textured, fruit maximized and elegance incarnate. Easy to be romantic in this situation but also wistful and somber – yet the wine speaks so clearly and emphatically it’s all that matters at this very moment. These are complete, distinct and forward carrying tannins to take Ovello ’19 deep into this and well further through the next decade. Solo cose belle Cantina del Pino. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted January 2023

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG Ornato 2019, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont

Tasted with Cesare Benvenuto in Alba from the Serralunga cru and a vintage of round fruit set against a backdrop of understated if surely intense tannin. A year for which a winemaking team had to reset and not push anything too hard, lest there creep in notes of volatility and astringency. Jam as well and the report on Ornato by Pio Cesare speaks nothing of these things. A softness in the beginning and also a state of grace with the force of structure waiting in the wings, respectfully and knowing now is the merely the time for introductions. Some fruit from 1947 planted vines takes part in this nebbiolo play and the rest seem to follow, fill and support, dutifully in the tradition of this menzione. Though those vines are hard to define in how they affect overall concentration there is the unspoken aspect of experience and strength. Of character which leads to probability to say this Ornato will live long and prosper for decades. Another stunner from the world of Pio Cesare. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted January 2023

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Not entirely sure why there is a need or desire to show a Riserva 2017 from a cask sample but frankly this feels ready to be in bottle. The aromatics are resolved, the fruit laid in a state of preparedness and the nebbiolo character intact, with tact and in display of its varietal guarantee. No other 2017 exhibits this much acidity and while some might see it as edgy to verging on volatile, the reminder is this. Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto and an old school soul for Barolo that will outlast them all. What a glorious Barolo, without holes and one hundred percent in charge of its emotions. Ours submit to the character of this great nebbiolo. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima, January 2023

Château Troplong-Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classé 2019, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Grand Vin De Graves 2018, AC Pessac Léognan, Bordeaux, France

Good to go!

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WineAlign

Twenty-three Canadian wines that rocked in 2023

Dec24

What makes a list? The question is like asking what makes a Martini dirty or how much VA is too much in sangiovese? There are some things in life that aren’t certain and others that are. The porcino is the king of all Italian mushrooms, just as the morel is in Ontario. This much is true. A young wild leek is best sautéed as briefly as possible in soft scrambled eggs while an older bulbous ramp should only be pickled. Chicken of the Woods mushrooms are the most striking fungi of them all and chanterelles are the only true frutto del bosco. Composing a best of list is not like these things but something other that takes time, a year’s accumulation of thought and above all else, patience. When more than 1,000 Canadian wines are tasted in a calendar year, narrowing it down to 23 feels like a weighty sense of responsibility and a profound task.

We are so far past discussing the merits or collective quality of wines produced in Canada. Canadian wines rock. They rock you like a hurricane, rock this joint and this town. They rock and roll all night, around the clock and the casbah. They are a rock and roll star, a rock and roll fantasy, old time rock and roll, a rock lobster and just a singer in a rock and roll band. Canadian wine is still rock and roll to me. Got it? This annual agglomeration gets easier to create and harder to define. In no particular order, in other words one through 23 are not systemized in any ascending or descending order. They are arranged to begin with this country’s most successful style of wine, that being sparkling, followed by riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc, red blends and Icewine. These are Godello’s 23 Canadian wines that rocked in 2023.

From the Naramata Bench

Tantalus Blanc De Blancs Traditional Method 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Truly noses as blanc de blanc made from only chardonnay, orchard fruit suspended in sparkling animation. Gingery and rightly oxidative while tightly wound, grippy and ready for anything that is to follow. Flesh from the fruit of the trees fallen in to the hand even before it was picked from the stem. Croccante, succulent, a scintillant raciness in every respect, satisfying and long. Would really like to see this again after the decade strikes ten. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

WineAlign National Awards of Canada judging in the Okanagan Valley

Hinterland Les Étoiles 2018, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Traditional Method and the archetype for making bubbles to speak on behalf of a very specific terroir whilst using estate grown Prince Edward County chardonnay and pinot noir. Hinterland is THE PEC version of Grower’s Champagne because Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras spend more time with their vines than anything else. Considering how many waters their toes dip into that says something and Les Étoiles means business. It is a serious sparkling wine, with intense flavours and the kind of backbone most fizz can only dream of hanging their flesh upon. The 2018 is precocious and wise yet the exploits of its behaviour have only just begun. So taut, so tightly wound and yet so bloody generous. Fresh and with gingery oxidative moments but ultimately in control and introspectively complex. Re-visit as often as possible for up to 10-plus years. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted March 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been beforev- well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Okanagan Valley

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Trail Estate Pinot Noir Sparkling (P.N.17) 2017, VQA Ontario

Here flies from the glass a sparkling gambit that has to be winemaker Mackenzie Brisbois’ most conventional wine. Just pinot noir and from an inverted vintage that gets better and better with time. A 2017 of wildly fantastical aromas and gravitas that make every aspect, component and iterated moment shine. This is a scintillant of excitation that delivers succulence we richly desire from Ontario sparkling wine. The mix of heady perfume, intensity of palate raciness and texture sliding into structure is truly something. If you are not put into an absolute tizzy and hypnotized by this fizz you may not be paying attention. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Estate

Blomidon Estate Winery Brut Blanc De Blancs 2016, Nova Scotia

A 2016 Bland de Blancs that saw 60 months on the lees. Super aromatic and expressive as if breezes were blowing through, Fundy winds with sea kelp and wet clay. Ideal phenolics in an idealized B de B that surely captures place, especially in a vintage like this, but truth is tells Simon Rafuse, “extreme climate event weather in Nova Scotia is making vintage cuvées nearly impossible.” Much of the fruit here comes from the estate block on the bay north of Port Williams, a sandy site that makes for more gentle, elegant and abiding chardonnay. Using old barrels helps to fatten and flesh up that fruit. Seems like an ideal match for the scintillant style of traditional method Nova Scotia sparkling wine. Super fun and energetic bubble. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2023

Lightfoot & Wolfville estate vines overlooking the Minas Basin

Lightfoot & Wolfville Cuvée Evelyn, Nova Scotia

Pinot Noir 85% Chardonnay 15%. If a bit too oxidative in tendency confirmed by the preserved lemon, well it also supports an ambitious style (reminiscent of top, top Cap Classique) that defines this traditional method, pinot noir controlled sparkler. Amazing toasty quality and just the right level of acid sourness to electrify and stretch in the finest nimble way while maintaining balance. Just has to be a top tier cuvée for this house. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Godello and Taylor Whelan, CedarCreek Vineyards

CedarCreek Pinot Noir Rosé Platinum South Kelowna Slopes 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As perfumed as it can ever get for Rosé with a salutary seasoning to elevate flavours up into a complex level of vinous gastronomy. Just scents like ripe pinot noir set up for food matching where plates like tamarind-glazed duck tacos, lemon thyme roasted game birds or anything spit grilled (a.k.a. al pastor) would willingly sidle alongside. Can handle a side of pickled onion, beet or turnip and also the truth. What a terrific use of Home Block and Simes vineyard pinot noir fruit, a white-like wine of protected aromatics, lees addendum, not to mention how blessed it is by a beautiful autumn that made sure Rosé could also be graced by true Okanagan phenolic ripeness. Perfect storm of a Rosé and we should all be thankful for the happenstance. Will age more than a bit as well. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Vineland Estates Riesling Elevation St. Urban Vineyard 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Credit know-how, track record and pedigree – all those essentials of a producer with varietal experience from THE place in this country where it all began. Yes, all this matters but step forward and know that Vineland Estates uses modern technology in both their farming and also winemaking practices in ways no one else seems to equal. So what does this mean for this archetype of an Ontario riesling? So much. St. Urban 2022 is the cleanest, freshest and most luxe yet, simply put it’s all about pinpointed accuracy, finesse and well, great science. The fruit is crisp, the acids purposed and the finish long, silent, salient and salty. This will age alongside some of the best, with noticeable phenolics in tow, making for sapid moments too. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Gabriel Demarco, Cave Spring Cellars

Cave Spring Riesling CSV 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

From the first 2019 CSV holds the intangible riesling cards and feels well-ripened, despite the vintage not being one of the warmer ones up on the Niagara Escarpment. Truth is CSV ’19 wears its phenolics on both sleeves as noted in the botanical resins, melon skins and stone fruit pit aromas. Already possessive of a subtle petrol kiss and acidity of a clear and present high number. Nothing dangerous mind you and the phenol-acid relationship in the wine is quite static, stoic and immovable, at least in this stage of early youth. Will mature quicker than some though the mineral quotient will always ride shotgun. CSV 2019 feels like healthy drinking. It will likely assist in averting the damage of cells resulting from free-radical oxidation reactions and also promote anti-inflammation capacity. More than riesling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted April 2023

Tawse Riesling Carly’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Stoic, cool, gelid and reserved riesling in the vein of a cool climate though the palate richness suggests a warmer vintage. High sugar and also equally so in acid, well-balanced and bespoke where the relationship between grape and geology is ideally matched. This is extremely well made. Finish is extraordinary, with tremendous grip. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

ed. The 2007 Carly’s Block tasted in July during a visit to Redstone Winery also rocked for 2023. One of Paul Pender’s great works indeed.

Charles Baker

Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard 2019, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

Crisp and crunchy but more importantly indelibly phenolic and with all parts moving as one, in synch and so incredibly harmonic. Symphonic riesling from the fabulous Baker boy out of 2019 and with this amount of time now passed, increasingly uncovering proof that it is indeed a vintage for the ages. Texture and intensity with shots of umami are created as a result of that stamp of particular Vinemount Ridge ripeness. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

August Chicken of the Woods

Westcott Chardonnay Block 76 2020, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

The 2020 may be as ideal as it gets for chardonnay across most sub-appellations of Niagara and Block 76 from Westcott up on the Vinemount Ridge proves the theory in so many ways. The statuesque musculature and moment frozen in time visage is something else from a chardonnay so stoic, confident and the kind of act sure attitude that speaks to farming and winemaking cohesiveness. From Garrett Westcott to Casey Kulczyk – there are no holes in this chardonnay. The barrel is huge and yet subtle, the fruit pristine and treated to precision, finesse and at the end of the day, Westcott family love. Benchmark for vintage, ridge and estate. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard Unfiltered 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Estate chardonnay is a cracker 2020 for Hidden Bench and along comes single-vineyard Felseck to crank up the volume for something off the charts. The aromatic bites and flavour washes deliver a Beamsville Bench wall of varietal sound. This is driven, single-vineyard minded and stubborn chardonnay to put symphonies of sound in our heads. Like massed pianos, guitars and string arrangements from which pervasive aromatic perfume and transonic flavour intensity collect to personify cool climate Bench chardonnay. The farmer, maker and proprietor may not be the fruit themsleves, but Felseck 2020 is most definitely their wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Not just the next vintage of the Senchuk homefront chardonnay but potentially one that will be talked about for a decade in retrospective tastings and longer. Whether or not a bottle is present, the reverberations will percolate through the ages. Not just a matter of varietal stuffing created by soils rich in clay and alluvial alloy in which stones feel pulverized into the textural fabric of this wine. You can chew this like taffy and feel the juices run as it liquifies and spreads across the palate. Hovering acidity keeps all the fruit covered, then lifted and placed just where you want this cleanest and purest of Lincoln Lakeshore fruit to be. We are all impressed and those who are not should be mystified due to reasons misunderstood. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Chardonnays of i4C 2023

Rosehall Run St. Cindy Chardonnay 2020, VQA Prince Edward County

The ode goes to Cindy Zwicker Reston, Rosehall Run co-founder and the honour is more about good deeds and love than it is just about name. St. Cindy is no small gift of a label and the good thing is Dan Sullivan’s work puts the saint in the Cindy. Few Prince Edward Country chardonnays were able to avoid ripening, softening, elevated alcohol and loss of tension but double R’s Cindy is the balanced one. Yes it is ripe and also rich but even more important is the pitch perfect seasoning, grip retention and finest moments where extract and tannin collide. This is really, really good chardonnay. The kind of stuff taught in chardonnay winemaking school but riffed upon in the real world. What else needs to be said? Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Ramps of 2023

Stanners Pinot Noir The Narrow Rows 2020, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Warmest of vintages and yet as only pinot noir (especially from PEC) is want and capable of doing there is no dramatic rise in alcohol. Conversions will be conversions and they are almost always magical as it pertains to the County. The specificity of the Narrow Rows elicits a varietal human response like few, if no others out of the County and that means love. The wave of fruit effortlessly tumbling into sweet acidity and structure fitting like a glove makes all parts happy, singing and generous. They do their work with chivalry, philanthropy and love. The vintage is a conundrum for PEC reds but the Narrow Rows and subsequent actions will be judged as right in the future, in part because of the block and in part because the Stanners team abides by what this pinot noir needs to be. A top pinot for 2020 Prince Edward County. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2023

Judges of the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada

Privato Tesoro Pinot Noir Woodward Collection 2020, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Inviting, sexy and rising in high spirit, song sung hitting the high notes and a pinot noir that rocks from the first. The perfume is just so very brushy hillside or escarpment and perhaps a bit northerly in location. Crunchy and succulent, judiciously oaked and spiced. mid to more than that in weight, impressive concentration without density and length – such never-ending length. This is the right pinot for the people. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Thomas Bachelder

Bachelder Old Eastern Block Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench, Ontario

For Lowrey Vineyard go east young man, the east is the best – or at least east is oldest, planted in 1984 by the family for the legend Karl Kaiser. The lineage of alliances runs from Kaiser at Inniskillin with Jaffelin (now Rémoissenet), through Le Clos Jordanne and Bachelder forays into Oregon. Today the eastern block of old vines have passed their 35 year mark which means they are truly heritage, not only for Niagara but for anywhere in the world. A glacial heritage too, with limestone being a determining factor to make pinot like this seem soil-driven, mineral-bent and shaped by millennium. Bachleder’s job is to not fuck it up and though he never does, for 2021 he finds another gear. One that is measured and paced for pinot noir – which is exactly what it needs and wants. The sweetness and purity of both fruit and acidity is seamlessly braided to spin a wine that will surely be timeless. Truly special and deserving of much love so give it. Success? Did it come out? All his wines come out. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

The first Morel of 2023

Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc Wild Cask 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Full and splendid varietal expression with such a distinctly captured frank-ness in concentration that really sets the Bench on fire. All the fruit imaginable with help from ant ideal growing season and then the salt and pepper seasoning that sees wood do what’s right and also necessary. The linearity and even-keeled notions of this Thirty Bench are just so measured, persistent and incremental. Will age gracefully over 10 years time. Last tasted April 2023

If at first this may seem like middle road taken for grape and vintage, of medium specs all the way through, keep coming back to this wine. From fruit through acidity and into tannin there is harmony, seamlessly woven and without falter. Good pH balance connectivity to structure so that the cabernet franc doles in sapidity as much as anything else. Right amount of chalkiness and a temperament that is really quite fine. No mind that oak persists as a factor just on the right side of heavy for now. Should show beautifully in another year’s time and with (Bench) distinction for many years to follow. Equal parts salty and sapid is always great combination. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind with the Experts’ Panel, April 2023

Stratus White Label Red 2020, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The blend for Red is always vintage dependant but can’t say there is any shock to see cabernet sauvignon art 40 percent taking the 2020 lead. Next there is cabernet franc (27), followed by merlot and malbec (13 each) and finally petit verdot (7). Six weeks of picking between the merlot and the cabernet sauvignon with specs in the end right on par with that (latter) varietal wine. Meaning magnanimous, ambitiously structured and of a potential to see the 2020, 20th anniversary Red as becoming one for the Stratus ages. Certainly more juiciness and also fun (and pleasure) but make no mistake. These tannins bite back, the wood is far from integrated and years will be required to see this make good on its promise. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Peller Estates Riesling Icewine Andrew Peller Signature Series 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Densely concentrated and from the beginning an impressive balance in accord between sugars and acids so that the two move swimmingly along from the start through to a long lingering finish. One sip and the Icewine becomes one with your palate, hangs on, repeats upon itself and as far as that kind of attraction is concerned you welcome the linger. Special dedication and technique here to be sure. 179 gL RS and 10.5 percent abv. Last tasted January 2023

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WineAlign

Another fine Collio experience

Dec21

The year 2024 will mark the 60th anniversary of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. This important milestone of commitment, promotion and valourization of Collio wines and territory will surely be well celebrated. Last July I returned to the northeastern Italian wine region bordered by Austria, Slovenia and the Isonzo River. The Collio DOC vineyards must be on hillsides to qualify for appellative status and these sites on Ponca terroir are what separate the Collio wines from Friuli as a whole, but more specifically the most proximate DOCs of Friuli Colli Orientali and Friuli Isonzo. It takes its name from Friulian dialect, from a particular sandstone with alternating layers of marl, the composition of which originated millions of years ago. The low-level organic (but rich in mineral elements) Ponca is coloured blue-gray beneath the earth’s surface but turns yellow-brown after exposure to air. The mix of of marl and sandstone can be equated to Flysch and many producers prefer this less parochial term to describe the unique geology.

I had previously visited the hills of the Collio DOC in late spring of 2019, in are area but one to a few kilometres from Slovenia and also Adriatic coast. It’s no wonder that its white wines are highly aromatic and unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock to give them their distinct personality. What is certain about Collio wines is their distinctive phenolic quality. They are intrinsically tied to their villages which dot the landscape that forms a half-moon around Slovenia, though with not a lot of variety in the soils. Climate is highly variable however and if a line were drawn from east to west you would pass from warmer to cooler.

The view from Casa delle Rosa Estate, Dolegna del Collio

Chardonnay and sauvignon are grown to the west, ribolla gialla to the east, malvasia and friulano in their particular pockets and pinot grigio everywhere. The overall territory’s connectivity encourages the production of appellative blends. I for one have made new space for them. Collio is in fact one of Europe’s most fascinating wine regions, a white wine specialist located in the Gorizia Hills of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The amphitheatre of Collio vineyards follow a line along the western border of Slovenia in the northeastern corner of Italy. It is here where centuries of a mélange of multicultural histories meet in a venn diagram of multifarious Italian, Slovenian and Austro-Hungarian mythology.

The Ponca of Collio

The 2023 July visit began at Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli. There are places that alone express the deep historical and human value of a territory. The Spessa Castle is one of those places and Collio is that territory. Dinner with the board of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio took place at Tavernetta al Castello.

Risotto at Tavernetta al Castello

The first full day at Borgo Gradis’ciutta was introduced by PromoTurismo FVG, followed by a Collio DOC tasting that led by Richard Baudains that focused on native grapes; Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC, Friulano Collio DOC and Malvasia Collio DOC. Dinner with the producers took place at Locanda all’Orologio in Brazzano di Cormòns. The second day focused on three more DOCs; Pinot Grigio Collio DOC, Sauvignon Collio DOC and Collio Bianco DOC. Lunch followed at Hosteria da Monia and dinner with producers at Casa delle Rose winery. We paid estate visits at Tenuta Villanova, Tenuta Borgo Conventi, Villa Russiz and Gradis’ciutta.

Tortelli at Locanda All’Orologio, Brazzano-Cormòns

Richard Baudains is THE master Collio educator. “Go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes,” tells Baudains. Cuvées or field blends can fall within the DOC, or not. There are a total of 1,500 ha planted, as opposed to 1,700 in Soave and 1,900 in Macon and a production of 6.5 million bottles, as opposed to 10 in Soave. This is an indication to lower yields and significantly so. In fact it represents 11 per cent of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and three per cent of total Italian production. There are 16 DOC mono-varietals and two DOC blends. More than 95 per cent are white wines, made by 350 growers, 180 bottlers and one cooperative on an average 4.0 ha of planted space. The lead is pinot grigio at 26 per cent, followed by sauvignon (19) and friulano (15). The latter endemic grape declined dramatically and was in fact at 50 per cent just a couple of decades ago. The rest include ribolla gialla (7.5), chardonnay (9), pinot bianco (4) and malvasia (2.5).

With the Sommeliers at Borgo Gradis’ciutta

In May 2019 I tasted through upwards of 100 examples of various Collio DOC with nine “neighbourhoods” as their collective source; Brazzano Di Cormòns, Capriva Del Friuli, Cormòns, Dolegna Del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Gorizia, Mossa, Oslavia and San Floriano del Collio. Sauvignon and Collio Bianco were most concentrated upon. In July of 2023 we began with those two wildly diverse first Consorzio Collio tastings led by the legend Baudains. The tastings were well orchestrated by our Sommeliers, the Consorzio’s Lavinia Zamaro and La Fede, a.k.a. Federica Schir. On this trip I tasted 116 examples of Collio DOC (and two Venezia-Giulia IGT). They are broken down as follows: (10) malvasia, (12) ribolla gialla, (23) friulano, (22) sauvignon, (22) pinot grigio, (17) Collio Bianco, (10) other varieties and (2) IGT. Here are the notes.

Malvasia

Bracco 1881 Malvasia La Mont-Brach 2021, Collio DOC

Classic malvasia really, from a cool site, lemon-waxy, beeswax mainly, tang, tart edginess and fine bitters. Spice and incense. Clicks every box on the expected varietal list and the length here is quite good. Picks up steam and fleshes well. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Curious how both ribolla gialla and friulano by Gradis’ciutta are open-knit, airy and fast friendly while malvasia is more closed and demure. Fulsome on the palate however and silky, cool, herbal and then finishing with drifting downy softness. Bitters arrive right at the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Malvasia Soluna 2021, Collio DOC

Anything but showing as a shy variety in this Soluna by Livon, sharp of tang and keen of spirit. Intensity of lemon in every which way but loose. Lots of finishing pith. A bit over the top. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Quietly confident malvasia from Alessandro Pascolo with an immediately gratifying set of aromas bred and bled from the vineyard mixed with winemaking for great compliment. Clean lees create a positive lactic effect while the flavours are traditionally sweet and sour. Lots of wine here, some waxiness and smoulder, intensity and drive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Malvasia 2019, Collio DOC

Long maceration on the skins much like the ribolla gialla and the friulano, as is Damian Podversic’s house style. Most pronounced with this grape and does in fact stifle the aromas while elevating the salve effect, tannic presence and intensity on the palate. Big wine from beautiful grapes and yes, this style is his reason for being and making wine. Salty (with caramel) to a wild degree with forest brush all throughout. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

So much more flesh in malvasia, both on the nose and the palate, especially in an example that gathered this much sun and achieved admirable ripeness. This is how it Pighins, with juicy lemon and then flavour intensity, finishing at fine beliers and saltiness. Accessible and professional. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Surely the most reductive of the malvasia and a barrel style to imagine flint, paraffin and mineral smoulder. Quite successful in this regard, ambitious perhaps and working the glass with diligence for great effect. Bitters and tonics, grip if controlled with its intensity in near perfect tact. Wood (tonneaux) needs to melt and settle in. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

In line with Stella’s ribolla gialla and also friulano in which a whole lot of wine and complexity hides behind the curtain of sauvage and stinky cheese. As malvasia it’s surely unique, curious and a taste that most would consider acquired. Goat hide and wild flavours of make us want more and the wine creates a true salivation of the palate. If only the yeasts were got under control. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Malvasia 2021, Collio DOC

Five months have wrought wonders on the ’21 malvasia which now expresses itself with not just clarity but great spirit. A force of varietal nature and right in the proverbial zone, fresh, dancing, full and bursting with intensity. Last tasted July 2023

Though the history of malvasia and Collio is long and storied the number of producers bottling the grape as a solo artist and not in Collio Bianco is dwindling from year to year. The grape is indeed an ambassador of the denomination and can effect wonders in the bottle. This comes from a purposeful to potentially profound vintage and you can really feel the gravitas in the density and volumetric properties of this unique white wine. The relationship between place and variety takes it where nowhere else does, into extra viscosity and unction, limpid waters where texture enriches and enlivens the liquidity of the wine. Note the booziness (at 14.5 per cent) and the low yet notable level of residual sugar. Fulsome and all in, in the end. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Vosca Malvasia 2022, Collio DOC

Chewy malvasia with more phenolics and bitters up front. Steady and of a continuance to palate with notes on repeat. Quite metallic and sapid. Higher pH no doubt. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ribolla Gialla

The Ribolla Gialla is probably the only truly local variety, first cited in 1299. Thick skinned, low sugar, high acidity, late picked and prefers the higher, stony sites. Has lost favour because of competition by sauvignon but it’s under a revival. Even some experimentation in sparkling iterations. Hardy and vigorous, later budding and so less prone to frost. Sugars move slowly and acids remain forever. For the variety there are 100 bottlers, 1300 hectares which makes the average holding only 13! The largest is approximately 40.

Attems Ribolla Gialla Trèbes 2021, Collio DOC

Owned by Frescobaldi, warm site and early picked. The first and likely most reductive of the first 10 ribolla gialla, a bit mephitic to be honest and agitation is necessary. Lots of fine wine behind the veil, intense, implosive, layered and stony. The most mineral driven expression and a wine to attract a very specific crowd. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cool, gelid, stoic, even serious ribolla gialla. The citrus is not so much preserved as it is like savoury lemongrass gelato, less aromatic and also no sweetness but just gives the feeling of being satiny and cold. No lees, malolactic or obvious complexity. The grace and elegance are noted but also less risk, middle road taken, solid varietal weight and effect overall. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Ribolla Gialla Yellow Hills 2021, Collio DOC

From Capriva di Friuli and one of the oldest family-run wine companies in the Collio DOC. There are 30 hectares in Collio and 70 in Isonzo DOC, split between Capriva and Cormons. A varietal ribolla gialla that speaks to the colour of the hills when the grapes are golden at harvest. Stays on the lees until March, is then racked off and put to bottle where is remains for a further nine months before release. Lees but a resolved, mature and sweetly fruit integrated one. Phenolic though again maturity in that regard so no metallic or botanical sensation derived. More than enough freshness, a nutty quality because of the aging and also a finish part lemon waxy and part herbal. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

An aromatically floral ribolla and also one at the higher end of the phenolic scale. Quite an alloy of cool, sapid-licked slick of sensations derived. Less lemon and more lemongrass and so here is a wine to pair so well with Vietnamese cuisine. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Cooler feelings and herbal, preserved lemon and aromatic texture. Balance and full connect between aromas and flavours, slick and silken, nothing out of whack and seamless integration. Nothing overt or standing out but it is this togetherness that sees all parts working as one. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Ribolla Gialla Roncalto 2022, Collio DOC

From a cooler site near to Slovenia. The least intensity in terms of aromatics, reticent in a way and yet unleashed. Different story on the palate with a real sour lemon flavour and intensity of tang. Out of balance in more than one regard. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Ribolla Gialla Damijan 2019, Collio DOC

Age and maturity come quick to ribolla gialla and combined with 30 days skin contact in maceration makes for a golden orange wine. Classic tisane, part orange citrus and part aromatic tuber. Add in the aging inside big 25 hL barrels leading to a softness but also a fullness of texture. This is ribolla gialla in confident balance, clean, sure and respectful of itself and those who drink it. Not really an orange wine at all and were it considered in the genre, well it would surely be a top example of that, with nary a moment of oxidation or volatility. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

Some more colour and even later picked maturity than the average ribolla gialla. Carries texture and weight into a deeper feeling as well, still a metal sensation but not nearly as phenolic as some, seemingly counterintuitive but there it is. Well judged and executed example in the face of hanging long and pressing with fervour. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Natural fermentation, 15 days maceration on the skins, cellar temperature, aged in old tonneaux. Some funky lees noted off the top, like crème frâiche and aging citrus. Minor TCA. Palate emits a minor bacterial note. Nothing egregious but present nonetheless. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

No wood, only stainless steel and like all Collio wines they remain on the lees for a couple of months longer than those of Isonzo. Does not get much fresher or palate cleansing than Villanova’s, from clay soils gifting aromatic balance, shared affinities between florals, lemon drop citrus, phenolics and what clean lees are want to deliver. The lovage herbal note is sweetly pungent though the transition to palate changes with more intensity than expected. The flavours are favourable and potentially memorable. Some sweet and sour mix and then the metallic note so prevalent in Collio. Des there is an extra layer as compared to Isonzo, namely because the two hills where the grapes are grown are layered with stratified-stony Ponca soil, unlike the clays of the Isonzo plains that surround them. Really satisfying wine. rink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Ribolla Gialla 2021, Collio DOC

Confident and concentrated ribolla gialla, layered and full of complimentary but also supportive parts. Fruit and stone in cohorts, minor reduction and major texture. Maximum ripeness for the grape. A wine that surely celebrates place. Feels like the top single varietal expression for the house. Drink 2023-2026.Tasted July 2023

Vosca Ribolla Gialla 2022, Collio DOC

More aromatics here in a complex olfactory weave of citrus, sweet herbs and marine saltiness. Feels earlier picked and the acidity confirms this notion. Definitely the crunchiest and saltiest example if a bit of extra lees and or malolactic quality felt as well. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Friulano

Then there is friulano, the opposite of ribolla gialla, thin skinned, low acidity and not fussy. Will grow anywhere. Harvest gap times are much wider and yet a wet September can be challenging. In dry conditions it will usually hang well into September.

Branko Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

From Igor Erzetic who changed the old vines over to Guyot in 2005, five years after taking over the vineyard. His father was Branko and the varieties cultivated are chardonnay, pinot grigio, sauvignon and this friulano. Use of wood is for seasoning, not for “dominance.” Igor is looking for mineral and especially sapidity, but in the end he is happy with harmony. His 2022 is fully phenolic, botanical, sapid and savoury. So very friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A bit of funky lees on the cooperative’s friulano, unexpected because their wines are usually squeaky clean. Lemongrass, pungency of herbs and yogurt are there, followed by some lemon sherbet and a soft mouthfeel. Slides away slow and easy, finishing with true sauvignon-esque style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello di Spessa Friulano Rassauer 2021, DOC Collio

Doesn’t get much more phenolic than this grippy aromatic friulano from Castello di Spessa in Captiva del Friuli and ripeness is clearly one of its virtues. Tasted blind and with the white pepper shakes this could be grüner veltliner, in particular from the Wachau. Lots going on here in a varietal wine that speaks to low yields, proper hillside plantings and attention to detail. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Draga Friulano Miklus 2018, Collio DOC

Five years is long enough to get a sense of what aging friulano can bring to the table and the Miklus by Draga tells a winding, evolving and fascinating story. Perhaps some botrytis here, noted in the saffron and the preserved lemon plus much more wood aging put this in an entirely different ethos. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Friulano Rijeca 2022, Collio DOC

Some maturity here and not perfectly clean fruit. Shadowy mephitic and lean. Not correct. Overly bitter and also tannic. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From the village of Ruttars in the municipality of Dolegna del Collio. Waxy, in fact the first of its ilk when you’d expect so much more but Collio friulano is not truly of the paraffin kind. Salty, with botrytis-induced saffron but also a good flavoured Solvenian salt. Tart but in control and all the while built with fine bitters to bring it all together. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’cutta Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

More fleshy accumulation and later picked ripeness gained for credibility in the Gradis’cutta friulano and without hesitation. Streak of mineral salt and simply balanced throughout. Textbook friulano, clean, refreshing, neither too lean nor too fat. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Old vines, good site. Lemon in so many ways dominate the nose, drops of candy, juice and a phenolic grip by the pith. Full and even expansive on the palate, fatter and creamier than most Collio friulano. Good acid here as well so there really is a lot going on, perhaps needing a few more months to integrate and come together. Tannic and proper, not technical and with plenty of potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Most interesting aromatic profile, the first to bring about key lime and sweet basil. The cool gelid feeling begins here and carries over to the palate. Tonic and salty character in a balanced wine that is surely indicative of a vintage’s promise as evidenced by the seamless transitions in the wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Friulano Manditocai 2021, Collio DOC

Single site, cru or just fantasy name but regardless you can feel the concentration on the nose. Pencil lead, wild fennel and other savoury to brushy elements make this stand out from the pack. The wood could use just a bit more integration but it will get there. Salty, lemony and intense palate with linearity and length. True vibrancy and the fine bitters really tie it all together. Manditocai means “bye-bye tocai.” Cheeky. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A cornerstone of Alessandro Pascolo’s production, the anchor in his Collio Bianco and here what feels like much of his most important varietal fruit. Equally aromatic and playful on the palate, dancing as friulano should for energy and refreshment. Clean and caught in just the right moment between linearity and fleshiness. A few grinds of white pepper and really great length. Top example. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Clean, fresh, lemony and open-knit friulano with every moment intent on thirst-quenching, satisfying and refreshing feelings. Just that most minor finishing hint of phenolic grip and white pepper but this is a fleshy and “grasso” friulano. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Podversic Friulano Nekaj 2019, Collio DOC

Longer maceration time on the skins, likely as much as 30 days and combined with a couple of extra years of age puts this in full maturity. Not as expressive and energetic as the ribolla gialla but still just as clean and without any off-putting natural funk. The salve feeling and layered tang is stronger, both a result of phenolic grip and deeper or more density of tannin. Surely stands apart from the rest. Not exactly the best grade for this style. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Just ever so slightly effervescent energy buzzes from the Blanchis “hill” friulano in a cool, gelid and faux sweet example. Certainly ripe and phenolic, well mad despite the hot vintage because it strikes overall accord between what could have been disparate parts. A touch of botrytis here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russiàn Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Less open and surely not a gregariously aromatic friulano while the palate tells an entirely different story. From a closed to widely open circumstance, first shy and then dancing, tripping the tongue and expressive of many sweet, sour and salty flavours. Rijstaffel in the mouth. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

From Pradis and typical as it is aromatically lean, not so much closed as not so forthright. Sapid and stoic, pH a bit higher here as well and less indicative of the vintage. More flesh and expressiveness on the palate, almost peachy but there is an unripe greenness about it. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Quiet and reserved, holding back the years, perfume and tears. Crisp, clean and crunchy friulano, lean and refreshing. Part salty and part sapid, working both sides of the varietal room. Herbal and herbaceous, very much like green sauvignon. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Spontaneous ferment, good time on the lees and then in old, large barrel. Oxidative to a degree and freedom felt through and through. Vociferous, some slightly funky lees and most certainly a naturally conceived and executed friulano with great wandering purpose. Fleshy and flighty, fanciful and full of varietal fantasy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

A certain aspect of typically Collio friulano stands out on this semi-aromatic front and that would be the blossom perfume, orange namely but also something from wood. Really middle road taken friulano and fleshy, of plump raisins and melon, even a hint at litchi. Could be the slightest bit of botrytis but it comes across neither sweet nor funky. Glycerin, medium-bodied, sweet acidity and concentration with thanks to a warm and hot summer. Low rainfall yet grapes were healthy and their adaptability translated to their expression and personality. A wine that is a truthful and respectful tribute to the region. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Still working through its kinks of reduction and enzymatic motions, alive, dancing and kicking. Improving with every passing moment, developing further complexities, advancing towards an end game. Just about at that moment. Last tasted July 2023

As with the kindred Bianci there is unction and viscosity dictating the character of the friulano, more so than pinot bianco yet less than the über thick and textural malvasia. This one seems to find the middle ground and glides through with more ease, gently sliding over the palate yet not leaving any salve or residual tape behind. Middle of the road is proper and good in this case when you think on things as scenarios of good, better and best. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Villa Russiz Friulano 2019, Collio DOC

Friulano from 2019 persists and remains in ideal tact, fruit and phenols intertwined, together, intact. The taciturn is apprised for grape variety and place, also inseparable and moving in tandem. Really floral example, vinous and reeking of the endemic grape it has to be, here, now and for always. Sweetly natural, cool and in the open window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Vosca Friulano 2021, Collio DOC

Cool and metallic, especially in the friulano range, gelid and not overly perfumed. A truly sapid iteration, likely higher in pH and less so in terms of usual acids. Lean to a degree and really quite refreshing. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Friulano 2022, Collio DOC

Phenolic friulano, cool and stoic, not aromatic in any fruity or floral way. Juiced and zested lemon all over the palate, a bit one dimensional in that regard and still emitting sulphides yet to blow away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz in Capriva del Friuli

Sauvignon

“In Collio the blanc is omitted and the commitment to brevity allows for their prized and undemocratic sauvignon to co-exist in a über particular vacuum occupied by friulano, malvasia and ribolla gialla. These Gorizia Hills so proximate to Slovenia and the Adriatic coast make for whites of the highly aromatic ilk, unique to a shared concentration of mito and geography. They stand alone in European character from out of soils variegated by sand, clay and rock. These thoughts and claims do justice to sauvignon with both equal and in relation to the aforementioned coveted grapes, opposing justice.

“The biggest variable is site,” told Richard Baudains, a consideration in astute support of his earlier prelude for Collio Bianco when he said “go inside the area and the tradition and don’t worry so much about the grapes.” Somewhere in the mechanism of Collio sauvignon there is a device that simulates the gestalt of a storm. A switch, however personal, that reacts to and perhaps assimilates after tasting to find oneself stunned, as if spun in that vacuum that forms in the immediate wake of an historic turn. Or in this case, a varietal one.”

Ascevi Luwa Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

The aromatics in this sauvignon blanc come out of nowhere, first with tin fruit cup pear and peach, followed by a savouriness best described as blatant black liquorice. Or aniseed but regardless there is no denying the fruit meets Glycyrrhiza Glabra as Sambuca liquor effect of this wine. The yeasts and lees are surely part of the delivery but how can terroir not be pointed out? To be discussed. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Attems Cicinis Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cicinis, from Latin meaning “squirrels” and solo sauvignon from a single vineyard planted for this purpose. A Collio wine from Friuli-Venezia Giulia and specifically Capriva del Friuli where the variety does as well as anywhere in the entirety of Italy. For varietal wines and also at the heart of many Collio Bianco blends but here the artist sings a cappella with richness and layering in its voice. A white wine of fine bitters, implosive tang and structure. Very curious, wholly unique. Last tasted November 2023

Pretty fruity number this Cicnis by Attems (owned by Frescobaldi by the way) and by the by you won’t find a much more up front and drinkable example. House style so similar to the other varietal wines made by Attems, attractive to all, clean and teachable for Collio from hill to hill. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Branko Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

This just has to be the most understandable and recognizable of Collio sauvignon and despite a bit of green char because of the vintage there can be no further elements needed to describe what that concept means. Concentration, hillside brush and grasses, humidity and the dampness of a place that gets into the bones of a wine. True karst bled from the skeletal Ponca of geology and a skillet filled with fungi, herbs and mineral salts. More than correct. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Sauvignon Segrè Capriva Del Friuli, 2021, Collio DOC

Unique aromatic profile on the Segrè by Castello di Spessa, of brushy savour and a dry concrete or at least Ponca geological sensation. Also a buzz on the palate, that ever so slight refreshing feeling given by CO2 akin to a Styrian style that’s really inviting. Really fine energy and vitality, the power of Capriva del Friuli, with oscillations between lean linearity and fleshy substance. Shows off 2021 with distinction. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sauvignon Sant’Helena 2022, Collio DOC

Faux sugary capture, not unusual for Collio sauvignon, sweetly scented and then quite sharp in flavour. Tart and just fleshy enough to deliver as much ripeness as the vintage can, but 2022 is 2022 and the green streak is unavoidable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A soapy cilantro start which if you are like the card carrying members who relish the aroma, well than this sauvignon begins well and bodes for much promise. The palate does in fact deliver flesh, mineral and stone fruit in waves. Some green as well but no matter because the hills are alive with sauvignon blanc. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Feels like some skin contact here, definite later harvesting and no lack for pressing the sauvignon blanc bejeezers to make a pretty vinous if nearly resinous example. Acids are surprisingly fine and the wine finds enough balance amongst the green fleshed fruit with some in veraison skins. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

A bit taut and aromatically reticent but know that the curtain pulled aside will reveal a fruit filled landscape and a vintage reality. Mineral salts, savoury herbs and yet to know fascinations. A stoic and confident sauvignon right here, upright, linear and surely of one of the more successful but also promising Collio styles. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Livon Sauvignon Valbuins 2022, Collio DOC

The skins of stone fruit lead and so the Livon exhibits more ripeness than any of the 2022s, regardless of grape variety. A bit taut this one and so a good swirl will see the windows open and the energy released. Some structure and grip will see this Valbuins sauvignon live on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Consistent style here from Marcuzi, full on skin contact, not just for pinot grigio but also for sauvignon blanc. More tisane and salve texture this time and with this variety, ogf caramel and grapefruit but also lees layered throughout. This is the dude’s style. Like Champagne with no bubble. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Sauvignon Mossa 2022, Collio DOC

Much hidden behind a reductive wall, more than a veil and seeking more sauvignon than this. Acetic notes emerge and so something is amiss. Made with a predominance of French clones, a vertical expression, diversity of fruit, some buzz on the palate and a sort of Kiwi finish, but one that really goes on. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Russian Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Truly salty sauvignon, lean and green, some sulphide activity unresolved and direct, in your face, attack upon the palate. What else is there to say? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Interesting and curious sauvignon, not so much an aromatic stunner but more like an unripe mango in search of some lime. Juicy but not truly concentrated and the herbology is quite sweet, like basil and yet the citrus element does arrive from the mid-palate forward and through the finish. Which is incidentally salty and so complexity does build to culminate in a proper example of Collio sauvignon. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Quiet, no true varietal aromas available and then vinous, grape, simple, uncut and uncomplicated. Nothing to shout about for sure. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Substantial and up front with a clear and present intention to extoll the immediately gratifying Collio nature of this style in sauvignon blanc. More floral than tropical and good aromatic concentration from old vines. Few show the pyrazine as this does, also white pepper and intensity of varietal. Good expression of the hills above Isonzo. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Somewhere between eight and 12 vineyards with different harvest dates add up to this seamlessly layered sauvignon. Paolo walks the vineyards, tastes the grapes and makes his decisions on where to harvest and when. Every pick is fermented separately, the average on skins time is a night or so and the blends are made once fermentations are finished. Freshness incarnate, lemon drop, naturally sweet fruit and high acidity. As professional a sauvignon from Collio as there could possibly be, of clarity, purity and amenability. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

Cool, composed, taut and not quite open sauvignon blanc, though there is clearly something special waiting in the palates’ wings. This exudes confidence and concentration without equivocation and so terroir, that being the hills of Mossa And Gorizia, is responsible for the promise and potential. Properly structured sauvignon blanc and surely a distinct Collio expression. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2017, Collio DOC

The many vineyards of variegate, wide time frame picks prepare this sauvignon for early freshness and moderate structure, allowing it to stay focused through to this near six year mark. Some maturity for sure and a mild mustiness, yet persistent because of high extract and finely defined accents. Good seasoning makes sure to see this drinking well enough in 2023. Should stay this way for another year or so. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

Warm and ripe vintage, full and substantial fruit, more than decent acidity and a good long run to stay in the secondary zone for this length of time. More phenolic than expected, hanging grippy with the lingering fruit in its leathery yet still juicy second stage. In better shape than the bottle of ’17 tasted side by each. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon 2021, Collio DOC

From the word go the extra layer of ripe flesh is noted on this sauvignon blanc and at the “normale” level, as opposed to the “De La Tour,” which is the estate’s sauvignon blanc selection. Still there is no miss or lack for substance and ample everything involved, including sweet herbal perfume, lees, oiliness and natural sweetness of fruit. Impressive wine if just not the chosen one for Villa Russiz, though the length is excellent. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Sauvignon De La Tour 2008, Collio DOC

The Villa Russiz selection, from the top sauvignon cru, chosen from the De La Tour vineyard with the oldest block having been planted in 1982 (and others in 1987). Pour this without knowing the vintage and you might think somewhere between 2015 and even 2018 but 2008? Dios mío man. Fruit shining and fresh like yesterday before yesterday, ripe, ripped, muscular and of a power that shows grip without force, ripple minus tension. The tension is in the structure but it’s elastic and the wine adjusts to every stretch and pull. One of those impossible wines. Magic. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Zorzon Sauvignon 2022, Collio DOC

Green and herbaceous though nothing over the top in that regard. Fine enough if much like inexpensive Touraine with a tacky finish. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Pinot Grigio

In Collio, pinot grigio is surely at the lowest end of varietal importance and while trying to take it as seriously as the top grapes is not a thing, no one is going to make a bad pinot grigio, even for commercial purposes. Across the river in Isonzo it’s a different story and the variety has been very good to many producers. Back in Collio the top vineyard sites are given to ribolla gialla, friulano, malvasia and to an extent also sauvignon. The thing is pinot grigio is not fussy and will grow just about anywhere

Angoris Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

On the skins for a few hours for coppery hue and rustic elements creating early interest. Not very aromatic though it feels like some complexity waits in the shadows. Peach skin, lime, even lemongrass and then true sapidity. Well done. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Ascevi Luwa Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, flaccid and soft pinot grigio. No real aromatic profile save for a nutmeg or cinnamon note with mild scented apple skin. Peach tisane and sapid. Easy, phenolic and then a mineral finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Branko Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Reminds more of the Grigio’s made in other parts of northeastern Italy and so Collio does not stand out in terms of this wine’s personality. A gram or two of residual sugar works in cohorts with the salty and sapid elements of the wine to create a near fleshy and balanced experienced, this in spite of some underripe green notes in the wine. Successful enough, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Fresh, upbeat and some unresolved sulphides needing agitation to blow off. Just an hour or two of skin contact brings an added element of phenolic surprise without risk and with warranted reward. A technically spot on pinot grigio if not a particularly curious one of any sort of untamed personality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Grigio Joy 2021, Collio DOC

Aromatics led by the uncanny scent of cotton candy and a banana-ester element. Good thing these aromatics, so that the neutral demons of pinot grigio are exorcized but something more herbal, sapid or even salty would better serve the notion of complexity. Felt like Rosé with some residual sugar, more than noticeable wood and not quite balancing acidity. Joyous if just a bit of cloy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Draga Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

No lack for time spent on skins to turn out coppery hue and stewed red fruit notes. Strawberry yes but also red currant, pomegranate and rhubarb. A mess of a salad and that’s the heart of this pinot grigio’s matter. Stays in balance with just enough acidity and in the end it’s almost a Rosato though the vinyl note on the finish suggests just a bit of acetic volatility. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Fantinel Tenuta Sant’Helena Pinot Grigio Rocciaponca 2022, Collio DOC

Salty iteration, less phenolic grip and bite while primarily of a neutral, non-aromatic effect. Tarragon and just a faint hillside bushiness. Good vibrancy on the palate, again salinity and admirable intensity. Still quite neutral though there is a nice balancing effect created by late arriving bitters. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Fruscalzo Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

More skin contact than most – this much we know from the hue somewhere between platinum and copper. Neutral aromatics, perhaps a steely situation. Definitely a matter of phenolics and sapidity, just a hint of strawberry to stewed rhubarb. Simple and innocuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

A few hours on the skins delivers the platinum gold hue for pinot grigio with purpose, above and beyond the neutral average. Some CO2 buzz on the palate, yeasty, tannin and extract as well. That said the salinity is a step ahead of the sapidity and so phenolics are kept in check. Does eventuate at that sort of botanical end, but with subtlety and fine balance. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Humar Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Ripe and extracted, especially for 2022. Really into peach, without any noticeable citrus and no oak to cover or obfuscate the obvious estate style. Lees however, which subdues the vibrancy. Captures the sapid grip and delivers a simple plan, executed without equivocation. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Kurtin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Peel back the skin contact curtain and this pinot grigio by Kurtin is aromatic indeed, in fact there are more fruit, mineral and elemental scents than most. Great fruit in fact with subtle and shadowy phenolics, botanicals and bitters. Beautifully made and a joy to sip. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Livon Pinot Grigio Braide Grande 2022, Collio DOC

Livon, Livon likes its grigio. They make a lot they say. They spend their days smiling, with success, the neutral grape will play. Simple. Tart, herbal, a good tug between salty and sapid. Middle road taken and well made. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Marcuzzi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio DOC

Oxidative. Long skin contact, raisins and figs, wood-induced caramel as well. Orange, peach and pomegranate. A made wine, void of place and certainly a conundrum. Feels like a sparkling base wine laden with autolysis and phenols. A pinot grigio with a statement, a winemaker’s art if misconceived and yet to find its aesthetic. Tasted July 2023

Pighin Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Something next level in the aromas – in fact the nose delivers in a way that most pinot grigio do not. A concentration that intimates florals and the scrape of citrus skins – a few of them. More salty than sapid and then fine natural sweetness indicating fruit concentration with a streak of stony salinity running through. Surely a pinot grigio of lower yields and more attention paid to agricultural details. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Herbaceous for pinot grigio, not green but definitely up there with a faux pyrazine elemental airiness. Also some CO2 buzz to lighten and refresh so that energy and vitality are elevated. Carries that white peppery grüner veltliner feeling and then finishes at juniper in the G & T botanical way. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Russian Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Longest amount of skin contact here, not orange per se but akin to Rosato or en route to such an idea out of the rub from a white or green grape. Quite rustic and ropey, salty and faux sweet, surely tart and also phenolic. Builds character because the palate delivers fun and fruity flavours, in part with help from some extra CO2. Much better in the end than what first seemed impossible early on. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Subida di Monte Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Neutral in every respect, separated from the skins with haste, fermented in neutral vessels and not a moment of lees anywhere to be found. Carbon filtered to keep the wine as innocuous, ambiguous and clean as possible. Fait accompli. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Sturm Pinot Grigio 2022, Collio DOC

Simple, salty and relatively neutral as far as pinot grigio from Collio is concerned. Energy all around in the sense that the grape and place do this professional style better, if only because vineyard quality, lower yields and makers with the acumen to do great things all conspire for an elevated varietal experience. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Reductive and agitation does help to put this in proper vintage steading. It would seem like not perfectly clean lees mar the entry and first transition though the wine straightens itself and gets to where it needs to go. Some sour moments and fine in the end. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

No real skin soak and yet full fruit comes across out of an ideal vintage to make pinot grigio with the added bonus of Collio vineyards. Fleshy, technically clean and sound, a joy to sip and all around winner, now matter the reason for wanting or needing a glass. This will suit everyone’s needs. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2021, Collio DOC

Sound, proper and expectations filled for Collio pinot grigio without any noticeable winemaking actions taking centre stage. No Malo, lees, skin contact or otherwise distractions from good and clean vintage fruit purposed to a reliable and well conceived drinking wine. Really proper, flesh and bone in the mix and admirable length too. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Pinot Grigio 2010, Collio DOC

In a lovely state of oxidation, caramel and phenolics now sweetened and fattened, acids still intact and the wine hanging like a flag blowing softly in a breeze. Honeyed but the fruit still leave s a dry impression; like one of those infused and savoury kinds with mellifluous texture. Freshness and what feels like cooler vintage. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted blind at the estate, July 2023

Robert Princic of Gradisciutta

Collio Bianco

The Collio Bianco is surely the place where each producer finds its artistic and territorial expression, but it also determines their expertise at blending. At Gradis’ciutta in San Floriano del Collio we practiced as “Apprentice Winemakers” for a morning and made our own Collio Bianco blends. Godello’s was coined “Stranieri” for obvious reasons, number one being that he was an interloper in this Collio Bianco game. His blend was led by ribolla gialla at 40 percent, followed by friulano (30), pinot grigio (18) and finally malvasia (12). It seems his concep[tualiztion differed greatly than that of the Gradis’ciutta 2022 Collio Bianco. Their’s was based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. Other grapes allowed from those grown on the estate can be müller thurgau, picolit, riesling italico, riesling and traminer aromatico. The first and last of those cannot exceed a total of 15 percent of the blend.

Blending Collio Bianco at Gradis’ciutta

A producer’s top varietal expression can be labeled as Collio Bianco, including with the use chardonnay though there is a trend towards only using endemic varieties to make the Bianco. “Collio Bianco is both business card and calligram. Though the autochthonous varietal triumvirate of ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia are the bones of Collio’s body politic, international grape varieties like pinot bianco, sauvignon and chardonnay add much to act as representatives of the heart, head, mind, body and soul of the producers. Ultimately it is the Collio Bianco that have emerged as front runners for spokes-wines of the place. The appellative white blends unite and really tie the territorial room together. An immersive week spent in the small Friuli-Venezia-Giulia outpost of Collio will change you, that much is true. The primary takeaway concerned wines of performance without obstacles, fluid achievements free of interruption, representing the vital energy and élan of their territory. Unbeknownst to many they are filled with an unfamiliar blissfulness, for how all will be realized.”

Collio Bianco blends

Angoris Langòr Collio Bianco DOC 2019

Simple, well made and effective Collio Bianco if much more phenolic than most. Likely a matter of friulano at the lead and malvasia very much a part of the mix. Solid, spicy, not perfectly clean, salty and not really traditional. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2022

The blend in ’22 is 50 percent friulano plus (25 each) ribolla gialla and sauvignon, all from one vineyard in the southern most part of Collio. Oriented northeast where the winds come through the valley in Brazzano for a cooler site within. Still the typical Ponca soils and specifically the Flysch of marine origin in Cormons. Special sort of citrus, an inward intensity and a mix of white grapes making for many layers. No compression but rather a breathable porousness so that the wine feels light and airy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Bracco 1881 Collio Bianco DOC La Mont Brach 2021

Stoic, high confidence if humble and classic Collio Bianco that is just about as linear as it is predicated on quality hill-raised fruit. Just seems to get it and deliver the authentic experience for the appellation. A clear reflection of human touch and land by way of a blend to tell a relatable story. Structure is also present for several years of aging. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Cantina Produttori Cormòns Collio Bianco “Da Uve Autoctone” 2021, Collio Bianco DOC

Only made from endemic varieties and the Produttori wears it on its sleeve by declaring this on the bottle. Da Uve Autoctone, meaning ribolla gialla, friulano and malvasia, the holy trinity and the ones to speak of the Ponca soils. Clean, apple, vintage-relatable, juicy and fleshy. Dictionary entry right here. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2022

Based on pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon with some riesling and so the indigenous varieties like ribolla gialla and friulano are neither anchors nor supporting cast members. From vineyards in Bratinis and Zavognica, juicy as it gets and made lively by the specific Ponca soils prevalent in these two growing areas. Fruit is indeed yellow, blossoms are in bloom and exoticism is the way of this Bianco blend. For enjoyment, not cellaring. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco DOC 2018

A Collio Bianco aged well should come to this. Lightly caramelized, balanced and refined. That is the case for Bràtinis, a blend pulled from three plots; Bràtinis, Zavognza and Ruttars at elevations ranging from 150 to 180m, all on Ponca soils. Lovely gelid lemon curd, an oily fatness and spice, plenty of salt and pepper spice. Luxe and balanced. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Gradis’ciutta Bràtinis Collio Bianco Riserva DOC 2017

Riserva sees a minimum of 20 months in wood, as per the disciplinare of the Collio Consorzio. A fully formed, resolved and now mature 2017 here with flesh but also green apple crunch and bite. Quite spiced and peppery, tart, tight and high acid. Really interesting Collio Bianco! Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Korsič Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Maturing quickly, falling into oxidative behaviour and like green apple sauce at this early stage. Also aldehydic, phenolic and olive oil fruity. Not certain this was the intention but generous wood and warm vintage fruit have aligned for this kind of character. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Livon Collio Bianco DOC Solarco 2021

Well integrated, mostly seamless and properly structured Collio Bianco here from Livon with notable wood accents, nutty spice and a vanilla-caramel swirl. Nothing big in that regard mind you but the style is duly noted. Feels dominated by sauvignon, not surprising considering Livon sits right in the heart of that varietal country. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Pascolo Collio Bianco DOC Studio Di Bianco 2019

Lovely and authentic style of Collio Bianco from Alessandro Pascolo, fruit ripe, fleshy, layered and properly integrated. A style with oak done so well, not lacking for energy and incorporating all its elements with distinction. That includes soils and place, which is Ruttars…but also riesling. Petrol comes across. Not to mention some age that will beget more age worthiness. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Picech Jelka Collio Bianco DOC 2017

Notable oxidative lean and downward dive here from a six year-old Collio Bianco. Vanilla, oh so much vanilla, caramel and even nutty butterscotch. Has seen its best days fall by the wayside. Tasted July 2023

Ronchi Rò Collio Bianco DOC Bon Frut Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Bon Frut, a play on words meaning both “good son,” (figlio) in dialect and also good fruit. Really ripe and well layered mix of the endemic and obvious sauvignon, juicy as Collio Bianco can be. Intersect of tart and tang, natural fruit sweetness and proper salt and pepper seasoning. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Ronco Blanchis Collio Bianco DOC Blanc De Blanchis Riserva 2019

Apple juice, pyrazine and simplicity to nose. More interest and complexity on the palate with salty and also sapid moments though certainly juicier than it is phenolic. The grip is not a tannic one but rather built on extract and pressed fruit. Powerful yet refined in that regard. Solid wine with plenty of energy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2020

Built on 70 percent friulano with chardonnay and malvasia, from four vineyards of all four expositions. Each vineyard is harvested with several passes, terraces at the base of the hill in the north, east and west coming off first. Baskets are chilled and three to four hours skin contact in the press. A few days or a week later the middle hills are taken, save for the south exposition. Only one or two nights skin contact on this fruit. The last pick is taken when the skins have browned, picked quickly and these grapes are in precarious shape. Three set of tanks withy three different wines. The seeking of three pillars to eventually be layered, of freshness, roundness and aftertaste. All three are there, golden hue and aromatic piquancy, warm and viscous, up there at 14.3 percent abv and liquid peppery, with beeswax and paraffin. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco DOC Collio Luna Di Ponca 2019

Flinty, barrel fermented style like Bourgogne (Meursault especially) in an ambitious Collio Bianco that would not surprise if it were made with a healthy amount of chardonnay. Good use of wood, fulsome and able-bodied, well integrated once you get past the initial gun smoke reduction. Long finish puts this in good steading for some positive aging to happen. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Stella Collio Bianco DOC 2021

Reductive and a bit stinky to be honest and a consistency of style for the house. Pyrazine, esters and also a wooly fuzziness. Mossy, lactic and peaty. Dios mio. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Villanova Cucco Wine 2022, Venezia-Giulia IGT

By now simply classic Friulian skin-contact white wine, peach tea colour, guaranteed to represent the category, as sure as the sun will rise and set. Three-varietal “bianco” called Cucco, as in the “darling” or “favourite,” made from malvasia, pinot grigio and friulano. Extremely clean example, ideal for those who like skin macerated whites and also for those who think they don’t. There is a natural sweetness of fruit and more than enough citrus to instil energy from start to finish. Villanova gets this style down and it simply turns out right. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023

Villa Russiz Collio Bianco DOC Maisha 2021

First question to ask is whether the varieties matter or should such a wine simply express as a sum of its parts. Well I can tell you there is much happening here and there is a feeling of compression, weight and especially alcohol. A bit heavy, caramelized, stewed even. So much wood and maturity as well, oxidative, warm and soft. Like well-oaked chardonnay for full-bodied red wine lovers who choose to drink white wine. Could very well be a 12-plus year-old Beringer Private Reserve. Drink 2023. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Maisha Collio 2016, Venezia-Giulia IGT

A mix of friulano (60 percent) and at the time also likely ribolla gialla, the artist fast forward five years to 2021 where it will become Collio Bianco DOC (and also include malvasia). Feels like the white of 15 years ago were less botanical and phenolic, or perhaps that’s how long it takes to shed that grippy quality, but ’16 lands right in between. A creamy vintage that persists like this, obviously a ripe one and more friulano in character than ribolla, by far. This style is not made any more and the Collio Bianco that has replaced it is higher in both quality and also style. Tasted July 2023

Other varieties – Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Nero

Korsič Merlot Del Collio 2020, Collio DOC

Fabian Korsič is on San Fernando di Collio, there since 1969, first having bottled in 2011. There are six hectares, of merlot but also pinot grigio, chardonnay, ribolla gialla, malvasia and friulano. The future holds varietal cards and a Collio Bianco. The merlot comes frpon one hectare, was a steel ferment then aged in barriques and tonneaux, 20 percent new. Hard to imagine a constructed merlot more elegantly composed, full and concentrated. Fruit execution, structure complimentary and serving the fruit with reverence. Nothing out of place and will age gracefully for up to 10 years. Oak so well judged so that the sweetness outpaces austerity and also astringency. As impressive as it gets for merlot from Collio. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Bianco Santarosa 2018, Collio DOC

A solo pinot bianco, one of the varieties that owner Loretto Pali took a risk to plant and develop, much to the suspicions of some local farmers and producers. Look at where this grape has come in Capriva del Friuli and this may just be the place where it is most favoured. Lemon in many ways, some density, luxe character and unctuousness. Big yes to pinot bianco. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Pinot Nero Casanova 2018, Collio DOC

The other grape admitted by and invested in by owner Loretto Pali is pinot nero treated with respect and even reverence, especially for Collio. Here the plantings are less than one percent of the total and to be honest this example is as dense and developed as any, in spite of the challenges, namely ripeness, rain and humidity. Well-pressed and as a result both high toned and also austere at the finish. Liquorice, tar and density. Still needs another year in spite of the vintage going back to 2018. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2023

Castello Di Spessa Merlot Torriani 2018, Collio DOC

One of the two red grapes grown for a long time in Collio is merlot, along with cabernet sauvignon. What was always the everyday wine in the bars and restaurants is under new command, especially at Castello di Spessa. Quite a good vintage to eek out raspberry fruit but like the pinot nero, also liquorice and tar which speaks to place being stronger than variety. Chewy merlot, some strength and grip, resolving and pretty much ready to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

Hard to compare chardonnay to any of the more local grapes, including sauvignon and so on its own its level is high, of buttery richness and luxe fruit from an accumulation of warm vintage sunshine. Well made, chewy and with enough acid to keep it alive and well. Solid work with a slightly nutty to metallic finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Merlot 2013, Collio DOC

Warm, end of secondary life, edging and easily hinting towards the tertiary. Dried raspberry and a chalky Ponca underlay that shows the terroir right now, even if it lay beneath the wood before. The wood flavours are still apart of the mix and so the style and winemaking are clearly still on display. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted July 2023

Villanova Merlot 2020, Collio DOC

The vineyard is Ronci San Giovanni, “the other hill,” a terroir with the same Ponca soil composition. The only Villanova red produced in the Collio DOC and spends two years between tonneaux and barriques. Idea is elegance meets structure and you know something, both are imagined with some easy fantasy. The berries are bluish red in flavour and acids are cool, sweet and supportive of a truly supple wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Chardonnay 2019, DOC Collio

It may be chardonnay and some of the vines may date back several decades but close your eyes and imagine this to be one of several white varieties raised in the Russiz hills; tells us how the Ponca terroir, Capriva micro-climate and time have all worked towards this means. That must be appreciated, talked about and celebrated. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Villa Russiz Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Collio DOC

The cabernet sauvignon vines went in the ground in 2001 and here sit it’s grapes fermented into wine, comfortably and persistent in 2023. Impressive stature, in its second decade, poured 10 years after vintage. Chalky still, clearly structured and there must have been some fine summer through harvest weather to prepare this fruit for the kind of life in longevity it is clearly showing. The wood must have been problematic and overbearing for a while but it and the tannin have subsided to make way for the acids to be the current catalyst to buoy fruit and make this a current cabernet of undeniable pleasure. More magic from Villa Russiz. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023

At Villa Russiz with Serena Delorenzi and Kennya Da Cruz

Villa Russiz Pinot Nero 2008, Collio DOC

Though 2008 pinot noir can’t hold a candle to the same vintage of sauvignon there is no doubt that it too has survived well going forward 15 years. Some caramel for sure, a tar and candied rose sensation, liquorice, herbal char and acids still moving with sharp edging. Good though not optimum shape yet all things considered a remarkable bit of longevity. From a 1994 planting. Tasted July 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

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Revisiting Mullineux’s latest releases with the visiting Chris Mullineux

Sep1

With Chris Mullineux

Sometimes I hang with Chris too. In April of 2023 Chris Mullineux was in town and so I was thrilled to welcome him into my home. It was such a pleasure to play the host for a change. Time was too short but we managed to cover in-depth discussions about Swartland sites, cool-climate Stellenbosch, heritage vines under the auspices of the Old Vines Project, oxidative chardonnay winemaking and winemaker Gynore Hendricks’ beautiful, sustainable and profitable project called Great Heart Wines.

Most of the wines he poured were those that I had recently tasted on his side of the pond in the Western Cape back in October of 2022. It was with winemaker (and Chris’ wife) Andrea that I did most of those tastings and so this new revisit offered a new perspective. The couple are remarkably synched up but have different ways of expressing the nature of their farming and resulting wines. Not to mention my own second look with six further months in bottle. Reviews on all these wines first tasted with Andrea are now updated. Meanwhile, talk to Nicholas Pearce Wines about sourcing these South African lekkers.

Chris Mullineux

Before getting to the wines I asked Chris about the most recent vintage and harvest. “Not crazy hot, but Swartland was really dry and we began picking really early – January 15th. We were done just after February. It started raining just as we began picking Leeu Passant. In Stellenbosch you need a week of sun to drive out after rain and winds do not have to happen, (nor is it necessarily) common. In 2023 it kept raining from March 20 onwards but Leeu (Passant) was mostly picked 90 per cent in. There was some dilution to the fruit. In other words complex from beginning to end of harvest. With cabernet sauvignon that means 13-13.5 percent alcohol. We are a sunny place so the terroir must give a sense of place and that means ripeness – therefore cinsault in warm locations needs to be up there.” Returning to this remarkable set of Mullineux-raised and quintessential Western Cape wines, here are my notes from that day.

Mullineux Old Vines White 2021, WO Swartland

A style of South African white wine essentially started by Eben Sadie with Palladius back at the turn of the century. “Right away in 2001 when I first tasted it,” says Chris Mullineux, “it just made so much sense for the Swartland.” Adding some verdelho now, has only been the Swartland for 10 years but it’s really creeping in all over the Cape. It adds up to 14 percent alcohol, 9 TA and grippy phenolics to add force with some softer and generous white wines in the blend. This is vintage number 14 so if you like to think about things in lucky 7s then do the math and see this on the heels of what just must have been a most terrific 2014. The Granite and Schist ’14 Syrahs are pieces of Swartland heaven. Last tasted April 2023

The chenin blanc involved is from vines up to 70 years old, two times into heritage status, refined in nature. here not a matter of more density but yes increased extract. Also contains viognier, clairette blanche, grenache blanc sémillon gris and verdelho. Crunchy as old whites come, especially this one, with just that righteous and ripping amount of alighted flintiness, lightning strike and claps of granite thunder. About two thirds are grown on the fine sandy, decomposed granite while schist, iron and quartz add grip, flesh and roundness. Full and layered composition of greatness. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Chenin Blanc Schist Roundstone 2021, WO Swartland

Planted on the shallow rocky soils of the Kasteelberg. More sunshine on the tiny berries which doles out big but oh so beneficial concentration. The grapes are thick-skinned and so pay attention to the finish to note phenolic spiciness. So much fruit and that grip mix together, also with thanks to the dappled sun effect for an eventuation at what we mark as complexity. Great intensity and because the wine carries so much extract there is a pause, a four second pause before the phenols show there attitude, passing again, returning, in between creamy textural moments and fruit repeats. The wine has to be dry to show this way, to elevate Swartland’s specific acidity and natural Chenin blanc behaviour. Last tasted April 2023

Roundstone, aka “ronde steen or rondklip” in Afrikaans but the farm is known by its English name. Another Western Cape account for struggling grapes while here the matter involves smaller canopies, clusters and grapes. The vineyard begets and raises a child of the land’s stony “dakteëls,” roof tiles where everything slides and so the tannins accentuate to procure wines of a certain toughness. This child is street smart and battle ready, got into a few fights in the early days, now able stand up for itself no matter the attack or the scene. Aromatically speaking there is a cheese rind scent in the dry comports of extreme aridity, resulting in intensity and directivity. A slightly higher pH makes this the sapid one, sliding across the palate with its über fresh scathe. This will age with the best of them, more like structured reds but so very capable as chenin blanc. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Syrah 2019, WO Swartland

If you think about the entirety of the Swartland as a painting this syrah would be representative of the entire landscape. Comes off of Paardeberg granite and also Kasteelberg slate, on average 80 percent whole cluster but no carbonic, to allow the perfumes of both to play their parts. The iron soils bring the tomato leaf and meatiness and the aromatics leap with or without challenged cause by the fourth and last year of the Western Cape’s drought. Before flowering half the crop was eliminated, knowing the end result would be a tiny production but freshness, concentration and ultimately no stress balance Back in ’16 the vines dropped their own fruit to compensate in full abort mission. So much was learned that in ’17 the policy of one bunch per shoot became drought year religion. To find more fullness in syrah with iron cladding and flitting fillings like this is nearly impossible but this is how Mullineux delivers a sense of place. Broad in terms of wide open Swartland but if you want a definition, here it reads like an open book. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted April 2023

All syrah and nothing but from a combination of iron, schist and granite soils. Made in “large” upright wooden vats, for the grandness and roundness of Cape syrah’s capability, followed by cool grip, converting what was into what needs. And wants, inclusive of evergreen, meat juices and mainly perfume. There is an amenable nature, a nurturing and a caring is sharing sensibility to syrah, expressly as what it means to be Mullineux, part Andrea and part Chris. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Syrah Iron 2020, WO Swartland

From the rolling hills around Malmsebury, in between the mountains, ancient soils, weathered, stable and red iron rich, even with some clay. Comes away at 12.6 per cent alcohol but the site brings power and natural intensity. Very focused and precise for the terroir in fact it screams sanguinity and tomatoes through leaves and paste. So South African in the most complimentary and can’t turn away kind of way. Acids run high though they are circulative on the palate and the wine carries some tar, char and the finish takes your breath away. So much character, personality and intensity. The right grape farmed properly in the right place can make this happen. Drink 2023-2035. Tasted April 2023

Leeu Passant Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, WO Stellenbosch

Three vineyards together on the False Bay side of Stellenbosch. This is a piece of regional diversity, near to Somerset West, picked ripe late in April, only finishing at 13.5 percent. Only a piece of Stellenbosch like this can extend a season for a wine like this, of fully south facing part way from the Helderberg, with rich clay-iron soils, against the ocean. The most elastic, stretchable, seamless and pliable cabernet sauvignon imaginable. Freshness and firmness coexist so that you can drink whenever you like and also lay some down for two decades. Last tasted April 2023

Inspired by the old sophisticated graphite model, here cabernet sauvignon is drawn from the mid slopes of the Helderberg. The 2020 resides where richness and structure meet at a point determined through optimum picking and acumen. Moves from first year 500L wood to large 2500L vat and this is truly an ode to what was once a fixture of style in the Western Cape, albeit with modern beauty, current sensibility and truths spoken. The vines are 40 years old (as of 2020) and really just beginning to take ownership of the old vine necessity, aka they now sit in their pre-LP, shorter EP state. Cassis and fynbos combine for true a genesis of Cape cabernet sauvignon authority, but also what simply has to be. The question is whether or not this wine will continue its course of wind and wuthering. Will it remain tied to tradition with progressive style or begin to play with pop structures. What we know is that this vintage allows us to spot the grape, place, match of the day, inside and out, and pigeons. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2022

Leeu Passant Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch

“For me this allows us to work with Chardonnay unlike anywhere else, from Chablis to other parts of the Western Cape,” explains Chris Mullineux. In a way there is an extreme saltiness, made through death and resurrection, of no sulphuring for the first 18 months. Anything in the wine can and is oxidizing so it’s perfectly stable and then cleaned up ahead of bottling, racked off the lees post malo, then sulphured which binds the aldehydes and any oxidative properties so that it comes away so clean, and tight. You can do this so long as the vineyard site is tops. Chardonnay that is bullet proof, without the bends. Can age as well as any on the planet. Last tasted April 2023

Chris and Andrea Mullineux started the project in 2013 with the help of viticulturist Rosa Kruger. “New” vineyards were unearthed and rehabilitated through four solid years of re-pruning, re-training and re-working of the soils. Then the wines could begin being made. A deconstruction and reconstruction, now seven years in and entering the opening gambit of true maturity stage for what is one of South Africa’s most unique heritage collections. Leeu means lions, a reference to a meandering walkabout, personified in these wines. They are made in the Franschhoek winery, certified organic, coming of age in their foray into regenerative agriculture, which says Andrea Mullineux, “in the southern hemisphere also means cultural and worker sustainability practices.” The 2020 is as fine a reductive but mainly lightning acidity charged chardonnay as a vineyard can determine. Located in the upper mid-slopes of the Helderberg facing the Strand with a clear view of False Bay. That said or perhaps out of necessity this is made in an oxidative way, which makes sure to keep the flinty and salty faith alive. The ’20 is possessive of fibres, threads, strings and wires braided to make a layered whole. Finesse and sophistication co-exist in a vacuum where waves crash upon one another in great open space, with no shore for to finish. If you would like to experience chardonnay in a way you’ve not likely done before than swim all the way out, well offshore, all in, all the way to this place. Turn around and off into the deep distance, gaze upon the strand. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted October 2022

Mullineux Great Heart Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland

Great Heart is the special project for Gynore Hendricks who is assistant winemaker at Mullineux and she is joined by 21 other employees who profit from this wine’s special success. Old and young vines fruit, similar winemaking to Mullineux but only aged in steel. Freshness and fruit intensity yet precise, crisp and steely. On the lees (unstirred) with Swartland’s natural creaminess. Last tasted April 2023

This a newer project from Chris and Andrea Mullineux whereby the profits from these Swartland wines go to the owners of the label, they being the employees at Mullineux and Leeu Family Wines. The South African Wingtail is the mascot, a selfless bird and a beautiful one at that. This is chenin blanc of richness and most apropos, also of great generosity. So much ripe fruit and philanthropy. Quintessentially chenin while so eager to please. Talk about great heart in South Africa. Here it shows in the most human of ways. Drink 2021-2023. Tasted September 2021

Mullineux Great Heart Red Blend 2021, WO Swartland

The syrah is from the Mullineux sites, the tinta barocca from Adi Badenhorst’s Jakaalsfontein farm and the cabernet sauvignon comes from granitic Paardeberg. Great energy, brightness and pure varietal intensity. A terrific red counterpoint to the Great Heart chenin blanc by winemaker Gynore Hendricks as the leader of a project befitting and benefitting nearly two dozen Mullineux employees. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted April 2023

Mullineux Great Heart Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Swartland

Vines from next to the Heldeberg, south facing, cooler and like the Leeu Passant the season runs long, phenolics slowly develop and yet the young vines create a quicker to access freshness and energy compound. This has the bokser effect in red wine. Last tasted April 2023

As a Mullineux wine Great Heart cabernet sauvignon feels akin to the highly focused Leeu Passant Stellenbosch varietal wine (aka the Helderberg Mountain bottling). As a concept Great Heart is all about staff empowerment in wines made by owners with a piece of the business. This is cultural sustainability at its finest, seeing livelihood improvements for members of the winery and their families. Like the LP cabernet sauvignon this performs as an “ode to what was once a fixture of style in the Western Cape, albeit with modern beauty, current sensibility and truths spoken.” Cassis and fynbos, tradition and progressive spirit. Quality combinations in all respects, forever searching for great heart in South Africa. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Mullinuex Olerasay Straw Wine 2021, WO Swartland

After the drought, cool and late vintage, with plenty of kept acidity. Same chenin that goes in the wild vines wine, picked same day, then air-dried for three weeks. Pressed and ferments for nine months. Only three weeks because it’s done outside. The sugar is approximately 300 g/L and the alcohol 18.5, TA at 11. So pure, lemon brûlée, marmalade and balanced. Brilliant Straw wine. 6,000 bottles made. “We make more straw wine than anyone in the world,” says Chris Mullineux. “One acre equals one bottle of wine.” When asked why do you do it? “Because its great wine and it’s part of who we are.” Heritage and imperative. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

Good to go!

godello

With Chris Mullineux

Twitter: @mgodello

Instagram: mgodello

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