Godello

Castello di Meleto Método Classico

Chianti Classico Collection 2025 part two: The visits

Apr8

Critics and journalists can get their fill by attending wine events in their home city, taste wines at the office space or in the comfort of their homes. This type of work situation has been a standard for decades and sure there are moments when just the writer and the bottle together can combine to produce some solid prose – but it’s not enough. To go further, to find the goods and get at the heart of the matter it is essential to travel, to visit with families and wine producers in their element. Climb hills, walk vineyards, get mud on your boots, touch vines, consider pruning decisions, crumble soils between the fingers. This is where the real stories come from, magnified in purpose when visits involve sitting down for a meal. Godello has been doing this with Chianti Classico producers consistently for the past 10 years and that is how he is able to write on this very subject without pause and about more than just the wines. People, roots, heritage and land are the impetus and catalyst for how the big picture is revealed.

Twenty trips and 52 articles based on more than 300 visits with 100-plus producers later and here we are with the latest set of wine reviews covering 10 visits made at estates producing Chianti Classico wines. Tenuta Casenuove (Panzano), Castello di Meleto (Gaiole), Poggerino (Radda), Calcamura (San Casciano), Il Poggiolino (San Donato in Poggio), Richiari Porciglia (Greve), Poggio Torselli (San Casciano), Fontodi (Panzano), Volpaia (Radda), Ricasoli (Gaiole), Nardi Viticoltori (Castellina), Castello di Verrazzano (Montefioralle), Castello di Ama (Gaiole) and also tasted in Montalcino, the small production wines of Baciate Me (San Casciano). An apology goes out to Castelnuovo Berardenga, Lamole and Vagliagli for being the UGA left out this time, although they have all been the focus of many previous excursions and will again soon. These are the 92 wines tasted with the 13 estates back in February of this year.

L’aia at Tenute Casenuove

Tenuta Casenuove – Panzano

Out of Firenze’s Peretola Airport and direct to Panzano for a long overdue visit with winery director Alessandro Fonseca, enologist Cosimo Casini and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Under the ownership of Philippe Austruy, 35 hectares are at elevation between 370 to 490 metres. Previously owned by Chianti Classico négoce Pietro Pandolfini from 1954-2015. We stood on the small stone square, “l’aia,” where the grain was once worked, looking south over the Pesa River, towards Castellina. In 2015 there were 15 hectares of vineyards, now doubled to 30, including a new site at the top on Alberese stone planted to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, malvasia and ciliegiolo. The top of the (east) ridge is a soil led by Pietraforte, the rest argilla and schist with a manifestation of compact, purple-veined Galestro. Identified vineyards are Poggio Asso, Vigna Somassa which comes from Arenaccio, an iron sandstone block, Vigna San Martino (fine decomposition of Galestro) and Vigna Camperi (calcareous clay).

Purple-veined Galestro of Tenuta Casenuove

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Another beautiful season, not at the beginning because of the April 7th frost which delayed development by a month – though in the end the wines showed with great balance. In part because of less bunches and bunch weight per plant but also because of a great September rain that followed a hot summer for the latest finish to harvest in recent times – September 25th. Everything in this wine moves in unison, all parts working together for a polished and luxe example of Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The vintage following that seminal 2019 marking a transition for Casenuove away from aging in small wood and making use of various larger format casks. Once again you get the feeling of highest level of extraction and here the most glycerol and silken texture to date. A warm vintage with 12 days exceeding 35 degrees to stress the vines, especially the young ones. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Here the new plantings began to be used in the Classico. The first vintage to represent the transformation away from Cordone Speronato to Guyot training resulting in bunches not as tight for a shot at the juiciest sangiovese expression to date. Tannins are still working with grip and force, acidity is high and the wine has a serious chewy quality as well. Also with thanks to Maria Sole in her second vintage in the capacity of managing the cellar. Tells Cosimo “you can see the transition, the new sensibility and the extraction level in the wines.” This certainly marks new territory and an understanding of the potential for the estate. Last tasted February 2025.

Fruit quite mature of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, a focused expression and very much the warmest of (western) Panzano style. You can taste the Bordeaux grapes in here, with a Cassis for sure but also some desiccation of small berries. Minty and a cherry stone bitterness on the palate with drying tannins. Give an hour of air and drink over the next three years. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Plenty of rain, humidity and cooler temps and “it scared me,” admits Cosimo though the shift from humidity with the northeastern Tramontana wind brought about a great day for night temperature excursion. High solar radiation and cold nights at the end of September, especially here in Panzano created this truly unique set of harvest ripening circumstances. Feel the mix of ripenesses in both the fruit and acidity, the long-chained tannins and talons that hold on to your palate. Still acting this way six years later. Last tasted February 2025

Fruit quite fresh for 2018 and in a way more so than the following 2019, here again from a consistent blend of 90 percent sangiovese with five each merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Juicy Panzano expression, ready and willing to please, tannins softening now and acidity captured with truth. Raspberry and blueberry, fruit captured at peak and here an Annata with silky tannins, everything in line and ready to roll. Tasted February 2023

Crunchy Panzano Annata here from Tenuta Casenuove, peppered as opposed to peppery, as if with freckles or micro-sized bits of earth. Plenty of salt and pepper seasoning but again nothing sharp or spicy about it and fruit so very berry red. Tasted March 2022

From the southwest corner of Greve in Chianti, southwest of Montefioralle and close to Panzano. Modish and modern for 21st century sangiovese is just this, stylish, chic and highly motivated. Quite fully developed and felt red fruit of glycerin, pectin and mouthfeel but you want more and more. Impressive magnitude in bringing so much fruit into the mix. Not overtly high in acid or tannin so use this early and often. Drink 2020-2022. Tasted twice, February 2020

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2017, Panzano

The experience of 2015 and 2016 were critical towards dealing with the hot 2017 season, especially because the south by southwest expositions at Casenuove are what they call “a hot spot.” Yes you can feel the desiccation but the 80mm of rain that fell between September 4th and 8th really saved the day. As smart producers are want to do the harvest was delayed, started two weeks after the rain and continuing through to the 15th of October. Acidity is different and special though the fruit is now just starting to fall away. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Panzano

From 2016 all the blocks of the estate were now being vinified separately. The season began in a different way, first with a cool and humid Spring which delayed development by a month and then things sped up during the warm summer. Harvest began on Sept. 26th, finishing at the same time as 2015 which means just two and a half weeks for the same 13 hectares. A wine of more density and development than 2015 though still tannic and today maintaining an important level of freshness. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2015, Panzano

First year of production under the new ownership of Philippe Austruy and Oenologist Cosimo Casini arrived in June just a few months after the acquisition. His grandmother was born in Panzano and so this was a true return to his roots. Very much a part of this first vintage that he describes as “almost too easy” which suggest he thinks some things were taken for granted. Harvest from September 12th to October 10th, 13 hectares in total. “But I’m waiting for a season like 2015 to happen again.” Last tasted February 2025

The first vintage, 80 sangiovese with 15 merlot and 5 cabernet sauvignon. The sangiovese was raised in 25hL botti and the international grapes in tonneaux. Darker and deeper than the ’16 to come. Good acidity keeps it moving through the waves of vanilla and graphite. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Riserva at 100 percent sangiovese is a change from the Classico where smallest bits of colorino, canaiolo and merlot are involved. Riserva comes from a strict selection of the best part of estate vineyards where clay-schist soils spill over with iron-rich Galestro outcroppings. As in Panzano in all its glory for a true expression of Casenuove’s warm location. Creates this clean sangiovese of utmost clarity. Last tasted February 2025

Riserva is 100 per cent sangiovese, a bit dusty and reserved, acids and tannins very much in charge. Crisp and crunchy for Riserva with notable fennel and balsamic notes with a nuttiness that is a palate extension from palate sweetness. A factor of new and used barriques with baking spice that in conjunction with full on ripeness to the edge creates a feeling of sleepiness. Enervating sangiovese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Panzano

The first vintage of Gran Selezione happened in 2018 after a cask tasting in the cellar where the team found something different from fruit taken out of a single vineyard. A place called Sopra Torre above the base of a hill up and away from the humidity at the lowest part, a place where the wind slashes through, and the exposition is pretty much perfect. Makes for the richest of all Casenuove sangiovese, longer in wood and you feel it but who feels it knows it. Last tasted February 2025

Serious, experienced, structured and vertical example of Gran Selezione. Maturity of fruit but also layered acids and most impressively developed tannins. This walks with great stature, sure of its meaning and intent. As a Panzano sangiovese it knows exactly what it wants to be. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2024

Castello di Meleto

Castello di Meleto – Gaiole

A studious and vigna intensive first visit with Victor Camilo Duque Crociani, GM Francesco Montalbano and agronomist Mattia Achenza. Gaiole’s famous Castello di Meleto has been a territorial guardian watchtower and fortress since 1256 with 1000 hectares, nearly 800 of which are forested. There are 130 hectares of vines in two località, Meleto and San Pietro, 80 percent planted to sangiovese, with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, trebbiano, malvasia and (0.5 ha) san colombano. The team has gone all in to isolate and exult the identified single vineyards, now with three Vigna labels; Trebbio, Poggioarso and Casi, the last one located on the road to Radda. Trebbio is collee, with red argilla soils. Poggioarso (the arid hill) is higher elevation with Alberese and outcroppings of Galestro out of the clay. Casi is in a ventilated zone with Galestro out of Macigno (sandstone) soils but it’s uniqueness comes from some alterations involving some Alberese and sandstone-based Pietraforte. The vines have been in transition since 2020 from Cordone to Guyot training, organic now for 10 years and largest such estate in the territory. Consulting oenologist and agronomist are Valentino Ciarla and Giacomo Sensi.

A traditional method sparkling that began 12 years ago. A spot of TCA on the first bottle. Only sangiovese, harvested early, usually late August, soft whole bunch pressed with minimal skin contact if just enough to give this Spumante a Rosé hue. Get the freshness and complexity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Just five percent merlot softens the sangiovese with many vineyards of the 130 hectares in total contributing. Usually the youngest vines and also some of the plots that experience the warmest climate for the season. Ages 15 months, half in cement and half in large (really old) French cask. No tannic impart and this is about as correct, clean, acid retentive and well adjusted a Chianti Classico as you are want to find. Warm vintage yet freshness and fruit quality is knowably ripe and easy. Less savoury and more fruit centric than in years past. Last tasted February 2025

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The first vintage where Riserva is certified organic, also with five percent merlot and fruit drawn from many areas of the estate, maximum two week maceration. Ages in large French cask (up to 500L) and plenty of fruit ripeness fills the mouth, with a local Balsamico specific to and expressive of a Meleto sangiovese. Clean and precise with all the attributes of Riserva in pocket from the finest mixing and matching of vineyard fruit as a true example of Chianti Classico assemblage. You can drink this anytime. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

For Gran Selezione there is only sangiovese taken from the most important identified blocks from which the three cru are made. These are the grapes not chosen from and for the Casi, Poggioarso and Trebbio ultra specific expressions. Sees 10 days of maceration post fermentation and like the other wines (Classico and Riserva) there is a silky smooth character to the Selezione. More concentration is what separates this from the others but also a refinement of the Balsamico, spice and herbals of the wine. Sapid to a good degree, almost ready to rock and the kind of sangiovese that will age slowly, incrementally and long. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggioarso 2020, Gaiole

The first vintage labeled as Poggioarso was 2017 and here for 2020 the vintage to launch with the UGA Gaiole on the label. Poggioarso is at the highest elevation, from 450-530m and the freshness matched by stony-mineral quality is truly high. The vineyard with the most temperature excursion, high solar radiation during the day and cold at night. Unique aromas that separate this cru from the others with a sulphur sensation that’s not sulphur. You can sense the sandstone derived mix of lime and Pietraforte that gives this mix of salinity and mineral flavour. It’s namely potassium and that is the unique perfume of Poggioarso. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Trebbio 2020, Gaiole

Trebbio is the new cru designation for Castello di Meleto, medium of elevation between 380 and 410m located to the northeast of the castle. A very clay soil with some Alberese (limestone) and Galestro. Also iron in the ground with red hues throughout the soils. More sanguine and sweeter notes, in the fruit and with spice. Only sees the largest (3000L) French casks and the Balsamico presence can’t be denied. More density and intensity here, bigger wine, stronger and with more grip. Older schooled in a sense yet the red fruit quality is dominant as well. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casi 2020, Gaiole

One of two Castello di Meleto cru artists that originally existed as Riserva. Elevation from 450 to 530m and a really concentrated sangiovese high in poly-phenolic character. A smoulder here with tobacco that comes from the interaction between grapes and wood, compounded by the longest maceration. The most tannic and without a doubt the most potential of the three. A serious wine, profound expression of the vineyard and the sort of Gran Selezione that will live through to the next decade. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2025

With Piero Lanza – Poggerino

Poggerino – Radda

Piero Lanza has embarked on a shorter pruning window because of the warming climate and is now keeping more bunches on the vines (1.2 to 1.5 kg per plant), to slow down ripening and to result in balanced, juicy wines. “There are no rules, not any more.” For Lanza it has been a slow evolution, a step-by-step process. As for which artistic winemaking period he’s now in, with 20 years on his back he says “it’s been about 15 years that I’ve been doing things this way.” The 2024 vintage was challenging, like 2013 with heavy Spring rains which made it hard to get into the vineyard and then a warm March encouraged early budding, but thankfully no frost followed in April. Rains ended in early June with none until the 26th of August. Veraison started early but by the 15th of August the water table had dried up and the vines shut down. Rains came just before harvest, a good thing and yet it was necessary to remove leaves to reveal bunches and speed up ripening. More importantly to reduce humidity around the bunches. Lanza finished picking on the 14th of October and mould was everywhere. One day fine, the next not so much – sometimes just a mater of six hours. “The evolution of the grapes was changing hour by hour. It reminded me of the 1990s,” said Piero, “but the most challenging vintages make the best wines.”

Poggerino

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

The Perenospera (resulting in downy mildew) vintage but Piero Lanza only lost 10 percent of his production. Yes – he fared much better than many in the region. He remembers the 24th of June, at the time of the festival of San Giovanni in Florence. “I woke up on the 24th, a foggy morning, I went in the vineyard and everything was white. We sprayed and managed it.” The 2023 is only sangiovese, of 15 different clones and vineyards, a sweetly herbal example, oh so glycerin textured, holding more Bugialla (Riserva) fruit because none was made in 2023. Freshness from concrete aging mixes with wood spice for an easy drinking, balanced and well made Classico. Just recently bottled in December 2024. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

The 2022 has been in bottle just a little bit more than a year now and has settled comfortably into its Classico skin. Quite a warm year with high level fruit and more importantly phenolic development with less herbal and tobacco notes that come from the very young ’23. Concentration is higher and again the red fruit is everything. There is a chalky underbelly of tannin and despite the vintage heat you have to remember this is Radda and so freshness is still a guarantee. Piero Lanza tried to have great respect for the grapes by pressing easy and macerating short. As s result the wine will go long, not 2016 or 2021 long, but it will last. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2014, Radda

It’s incredible! The longevity of 2014 is justified and now solidified. Adds Piero Lanza, “the quality and balance between the acidity and phenolic (compounds) have allowed the wine to age,” and age so well. Last tasted February 2025

The vines date back to 2004 and 1994 for Poggerino’s Chianti Classico, a 100 per cent sangiovese that sits at a zenith where the most red limestone earth and sour intensity is noted above all 14s almost anywhere, not just from Radda but for all of the territory. Almost over the top in this regard but stand up and counted is what this amounts to. Then it grooves forward and rebounds with warmth and depth before returning to that earthy calacari bonding. Gathers itself, the moving parts and glides along with solid length. Very interesting, honest, organic and naturally curated work from Piero Lanza. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted September 2017

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2022, Radda

Nuovo is the new-ish Chianti Classico label, first made in 2013 as the sangiovese aged in concrete eggs. The 2022 is now one year in bottle and a manifestation of what Piero Lanza looks at “like being a chef in a fine dining restaurant.” That is to say trying a recipe 20 times before it is perfected. The roots came from Lambardier in Champagne where they aged their wines in eggs ahead of the secondary fermentation in bottle. In 2010 Piero put sangiovese in one empty egg after removing the previous wine intended for Sparkling Rosé and the experimentations began. Year two fibreglass fermentation and egg. Beginning in 2016 the fermentations happened in the new (5,000 and 8,000) concrete tanks then transferred to eggs in December. Ten years later there are 4,500 Nuovo bottles made and my how this sangiovese emits a very specific aroma. Certainly a matter of the natural swirl inside the concrete eggs but also a seriously oxygenated wine that shows no signs of oxidation. Feels like a wine of località hyperbole and says Lanza, “the egg increases the terroir.” This is the limit of quantity and yet more bottles would be a blessing. More terroir is expressed from egg in a warm vintage. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2021, Radda

A top vintage and a fortunate one for Poggerino where the prevailing frost in Chianti Classico did not affect this località. A warm yet temperate year with heat but nothing like 2017 and just a perfect season from which to put sangiovese into concrete eggs. “For me it was a fantastic vintage, normal but the big difference was September with great temperature fluctuations between day and night.” The result is top level Raddese acidity and finest quality in the tannins. No this is neither Riserva nor Gran Selezione but being the unique wine that it is – it could very well be a manifestation of the latter. But we won’t name that and so for now we’ll just call it Classico-plus. Last tasted February 2025

One thing you can count on is for Piero Lanza’s sangiovese to come out ripe as any in the territory and 2021 would surely not be an exception to the rule. The fruit is remarkable and the structural parts equally formative and formidable so I’m not sure Lanza has made such a wine in quite some time. Years are needed to settle the pieces, parts and puzzles of this magnanimous affair. Don’t care that Annata is the appellation. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Bugialla 2021, Radda

First vintage of Bugialla as Riserva was 1990 though it was made as far back as 1985. Now labeled as Vigna Bugialla which puts this in cru territory and a wine that has come about after Piero Lanza’s 20 plus years of making wine, including many mistakes. It would be easy to simply think about the concentration but the true nature of Bugialla is the vineyard and its predilection for growing the finest Poggerino sangiovese. Quintessentially Raddese with the highest quality tannins available from the vineyard planted in 1994, surrounded by forests. Only the smallest and perfect bunches are chosen, like Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse for Diecianni and Luca Martini at San Giusto Rentennano for Percarlo. Aged in old Slavonian cask for two years, this 2021 is now in bottle just one year. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Bugialla 2019, Radda

Not a cool vintage but is was in September and so the finishing concentration is not quite, well let’s say 2021. Allows the Raddese Balsamico and herbal qualities to come out a bit more. Tons of character, very expressive and time in the bottle have allowed for this coming out party and makes one wonder how 2021 will show in time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Andreita Rojas and Stefano Marinari – Calcamura

Calcamura – San Casciano

The semi-virtual winery co-owned by partners Andreita Rojas (from Chile) and Stefano Marinari, winemaker at Castello di Bossi. The two met in 2014 while working harvest abroad. Calcamura, a vineyard located between two poderi, Calcaorelli and Mura, both located on Via Mura. A conjunction of the two, as opposed to calling the brand “Stefandreita.” The località of their vineyard is Poggio ai Grilli over and down the hill from Villa Le Corti and sharing the same topography plus geology, that being the famous San Casciano river stone strewn vineyard reminiscent of Les Galets in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their’s is a 25 year-old, 0.5 hectare block owned by their immediate neighbour to the west with a second 6,000 square metre block rented since 2021. A third will be a 1.05 hectare plot, they will be certified organic (on their labels) as of 2024 are are still currently crushing in Radda at Istine.

River stone strewn vineyard at Calcamura

Calcamura Sussolto

Sussulto, as in “to gasp or being startled,” but in a good way. A reaction as if to say, “oh my God, I’ve been jolted by something.” Made from the first passage of 100 percent sangiovese Calcamura grapes picked in late August. The idea came from a dinner with friends, to use these grapes and never consider a green harvest. Quite a phenolic sparkling wine and also one of incredible richness. This is matched and balanced by the smoky mineral, rustic style and a light mushroom consommé. So unique and worthy of any sort of fizz detour you are willing to make. 4,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Now in the third vintage for Calcamura the aging is only in tonneaux, two Slavonian and one French. Only sangiovese from a vineyard in the middle of nowhere but a località called Poggio ai Grilli. Could that be the name of a coming Gran Selezione for Stefano and Andreita? The Annata will be a grand total of 430 bottles that spent a year in Slavonian tonneaux and one in ceramic Tava terracotta. A light touch for a San Casciano sangiovese for which acidity is tempered with 10 percent canaiolo to affect a sangiovese between salinity and sapidity. A wine made by experienced hands not trying to coax too much from the rockiest river stone soils available to anyone in the whole of Chianti Classico. Never ambitious, always respectful and a feeling gained from out of the receded waters (so to speak) to make Annata as pinot noir Burgundian, nebbiolo Piedmontesino or nerello mascalese Etnean as any in the entirety of the territory. A more precise and verging on profound Chianti Classico with that terrific combination of drinkability and structure. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, at Borgo Machiavelli and The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Only sangiovese (because the cabernet sauvignon was grafted over with canaiolo) and now aged in used tonneaux (plus two barriques). Picked earlier than 2020, in mid-September at a time when alcohol can be kept at 13.5 percent and to a softer extraction in this second vintage. What results is a red citrus-styled sangiovese with a bit of sussulto of its own, in other words an acidity so very San Casciano and in a bridge year between cabernet sauvignon and canaiolo to soften, raise pH and lower acidity. Indelible vibrancy, “a style that we want – drinkable,” says Andreita. Even though the tannins are lower it is the acidity that will preserve the wine. And with no sense of overripeness or over-extraction. Represents the place and its makers. Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Limited production, 100 percent sangiovese of San Casciano bones, saltiness and energy. Notable as always for the herbs and verdancy but this edges up in volatility before descending into its tannic well. Taut finish and in need of two years to settle. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

With Andreita Rojas and Stefano Marinari – Calcamura

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Calcamura, a vineyard located between two Poderi, Calcaorelli and Mura, both located on Via Mura. A conjunction of the two, as opposed to calling the brand “Stefandreita.” First vintage for Stefano and Andrea with the vineyard they purchased in 2019. “We were very happy with the result but we knew we could do better. People told us the wine was great but we also knew it was important to maintain quality.” Yes this is an impressive first kick at the can and there is some greenness in the tannin but it’s exaggerated somewhat by the cabernet’s pyrazine. Aged in used barriques for a year. This first Calcamura sangiovese reminds a bit of a Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico mixed with a Renieri Brunello. Wink, wink, say no more. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Martina and Alberto Fabbri – Il Poggiolino

Il Poggiolino – San Donato in Poggio

First visit to one of San Donato and Chianti Classico best kept secrets on the hill above and across the river from Sambuca with another more famous neighbour, Badia a Passignano. Carlo Pacini purchased the farm in 1974 and today his daughter Alessandra Pacini, Alberto Fabbri and family run the 18 hectares with with vines planted between 320 and 400m. The seminal plot is a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery called Le Balze, a.k.a. “the terraces.”

Il Poggiolino AlesPaci5 Bollicina Italiana Método Classico

AlesPaci5 stands for Alessandra Pacini, better half to Alberto Fabbri and her birthday being December 5th. Solo sangiovese 30-36 months on the lees made in Rosato form with just a few years of Il Poggiolino experience augmented by greater experience from consulting oenologist Giacomo Cesare. Really aromatic and autolytic with the finest tight bubble, scraped orange skin and ginger. Truly well made. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Rosacarino 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Rosato made in the salsasso method (a.k.a saignée) run-off from the Gran Selezione maceration. A Rosé not focused on colour and not even aromas but with the intention of flavour as the driver. The nose is expressive of some formaggi, an aged Pecorino meets Beemster sort of thing and yes the taste is what draws you in. Rhubarb and orange with a lot going on with respect to taste. High in tang and needing food for balance. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato in Poggio

The vineyards at Il Poggiolino may reside at moderate elevations between 250 and 350m but there are no south by southwest expositions and so in a hot vintage like 2022 the freshness remains a guarantee. Just three percent colorino goes a long way to raise up character of a Classico that only sees concrete and stainless steel for aging. Sweet acids match the fruit stride for stride and what you want is what you get – A level of drinkability that represents Classico and this northwest corner of San Donato in Poggio. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato in Poggio

A terrific vintage and yes many estates in Chianti Classico lost production to the April frost but at Il Poggiolino the maximum loss was 10 percent. And so come for the quantity and stay for the quality. Rich and concentrated, lightly chalky with a clay and stony feeling. Structure asks that we wait a year before opening the window and set this sangiovese with three percent colorino for aging through to the end of the decade. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2021, San Donato in Poggio

From a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery which may have been a expositional detriment 20 years ago but no longer. The change of climate puts this steep single vineyard sangiovese in great light today and so welcome to the third in a row of vintages that may just shock as to its character and quality. Le Balze 20 years ago was organized as large terraces and in Tuscany you say “le balze,” when you take a giant leap. This Gran Selezione has improved and grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years to join other greats to reside near the top of the appellative pyramid. Last tasted February 2025

Another perfumed and expressive Le Balze comes with as much if not more pulp and flesh a la mode than those San Donato in Poggio Gran Selezione that have come before. The depeche florals are Spring bloom fresh, the volume set at ideal pitch and you just need to keep putting glass to nose because, well you just can’t get enough. Richness is never compromised but it is belied by the beauty of a tannic caress about as graceful and gracious as there are. This is Il Poggiolino’s finest GS to date and that is saying a lot. “Just like a rainbow.” Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001, San Donato in Poggio

Wow. Seriously wow from a 23-24 year-old sangiovese that speaks in such a clear vernacular. A language so specific to the space of this place nearest to Sambuca in the UGA of San Donato in Poggio. Yes this is from another era and the wood (though it has disappeared) and tannins (which have melted) have set this up for the longest run through history. The freshness of primary fruit lingers and merges with an ideal window of softening secondary notes. Soft yes but refreshing sip after comforting sip. Just a lovely linger of Chianti Classico as Riserva the way it was surely intended, with or without luck would have it. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Roncai 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

From the 20 year-old vineyard right in front of the house and cantina facing the village of Sambuca that ages 30 months in mostly, but not all new barriques. A wine conceived approximately 10 years ago and Roncaia is the name of an old label produced at Il Poggiolino back in the 1970s, resurrected four decades later with this single vineyard fruit. The meaning comes from roncola, a traditional viticultural knife used to cut grape bunches off of the vine. Rich and chalky, well-structured, elegant and poised for merlot put to new wood for as long as it is. Remarkable really and only produced in years “when the grapes are truly perfect.” Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Le Balze 1999, Toscana IGT

The artist has always been known as Le Balze, a.k.a. “the terraces,” to the wine that would eventually become Gran Selezione. What matters is the steps’ north by northeast facing vineyard and here from what was considered a top vintage at the time. The sweetness of fruit is still so evident and while there should be zero complaint about how well this has aged – the wine still feels like its maturing into the beginning of its denouement. The 2001 (Chianti Classico Riserva) feels much younger and still there is great pleasure to gain from 1999. Great fortune to taste, the wood very much a master of the flavour and sweetness through the entirety of the wine. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOCG 1987, San Donato in Poggio

Current vintage on the market. Yes, that is not a typo. A 27-28 year-old labour of love that from trebbiano and malvasia but in the late 1990s the switch was made for sangiovese as Occhio del Pernice. An elixir so silken and smooth, no rusticity and seemingly untouched by human hands. A Vin Santo as if made by the bees, with apricot, guava, jasmine, lemon, Japanese orange and lavender. Fine, fine spice and just so special. A dream, demure and engaging. On the right side of vivid. One of the finest ever and know that you can drink this meravigliosa dessert wine forever. Drink 2025-2050. Tasted February 2025

Federico, Martina and Leonardo Tattini – Richiari Porciglia

Richiari Porciglia – Greve

One of the most intriguing and rewarding discoveries of the last 10 years in this family estate on the east side of the Greve River at the base of the Ruffoli hill. The origon is 1980 and 1985 was when Greve in Chianti’s Emilio Tattini and his wife Lidia Martinelli established the winery with the first commercial wines having been bottled in 2009. Brothers Leonardo and Alessandro are now in charge of the vineyards, winemaking and cellar. Leonardo’s wife Martina runs the business and their precocious son Federico is now working alongside his parents and uncle when he not studying oenology at the University of Florence. Considering the continuity of the local and familial, there should be no surprise if daughter Irene joins the team seven or so years from now. The single vineyard or cru “Il Paccio” Classico comes from the oldest vineyard of 40 years of soils based upon Alberese and Pietraforte.

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

First vintage of the “regular,” non single vineyard Chianti Classico was 2009. An Annata conceived from vines between 250 and 350m at the base of Greve’s Ruffoli hill. A perfectly correct Classico, dark of fruit, easy to enjoy, fine though never tart, acidity spot on and smooth. Clean as there could be and a clarity that speaks to style, precise winemaking and place. Made with 95 percent sangiovese with (5) canaiolo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2020, Greve

The single vineyard Classico from the oldest vineyard of 40 years where Alberese and Pietraforte predominate the soils. Not made in every vintage because, well quality and passion matter dearly to brothers Leonardo and Alessandro. You can clearly see the choices passed down from father Emilio and the stubbornness to only make quality wines with the season dictating the choices. Made in ’20, skipped in ’21 (though Riserva was made) and aged for six months in 15hL Botti after fermentation in stainless, followed by one year in cement vats. Il Paccio the name is just what every generation called this vineyard and place but no one really knows why it is called this. Such a proper Classico and representation of the designation “cru” because there is something so specific and distinct about this sangiovese (with eight percent canaiolo) in its sapid style. Ready to drink though you can see this aging five more years without any real change and certainly zero decline. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2016, Greve

Though already eight-plus years old there has been almost no movement in Il Paccio 2016 from a warm vintage making for stronger and deeper sangiovese. You can smell the place with such expressive strength, the Piteraforte and Alberese stone committing to a local Balsamico with grip that does not come from the 2021. This is Chianti Classico in a nutshell, fine-grained and exceptional of prescriptive tannins for great longevity. You can tell just how gentle the press and maceration process were because for 22-28 days this is Chianti Classico with the finest and sweetest tannins around. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

Riserva is a selection of specific vines and so the choices are made in the fields for 95 percent sangiovese with (five) cabernet sauvignon that makes up just a half hectare of the 14-15 total on the estate. There is more of a Ruffoli feel to Riserva albeit of a darker and exaggerated Balsamic profile from lower elevations. More tart intensity and higher acidity noted as compared to the Classico and the style, or better yet the result is actually quite different. Tannins are grippier as well, fine yet with some austerity here. Needs time, at least two years further in bottle. Reminds somewhat of a Castello di Querceto. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012, Greve

A pleasure of fascination to taste a 12-plus year-old Riserva from this part of Greve and once again the longevity is remarkable. The combination of clones chosen in the 1980s and 90s matched to this terroir clearly decides the fineness of tannin but even more so the incredulous acidity that drives the Balsamico and savour of this sangiovese. This reminds of Lamole more than Ruffoli but 2012 is unique as a vintage and therefore a wine like this will stand up to be counted from an accord forged on its own. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

The first year of Gran Selezione for Porciglia with decisions made in the field for sangiovese with (inclusive of five percent colorino). The best grapes are chosen and left on the vines two more weeks for the final harvest. A combination of best solar exposition, highest quality and smallest bunches are isolated for the Selezione. Sees 12 months in cement vats and then 18 months in second use barriques. A clear line is drawn from the Classico but especially from the Riserva because that is the wine used to season the barriques before they are passed on to the Gran Selezione. The intensity of the Balsamico and fine grained tannins here are a hyperbole of the other wines with so many years needed to soften and integrate the parts. More old school behaviour while up there with other fine GS examples in terms of precision and focus. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted February 2025

Porciglia Cocciuto 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

A play on words, first on the Coccio stone but also cocciuto which describes a stone-headed Tuscan, like a donkey. There was a donkey on the farm (belonging to Martina’s father) named Cocciuto though he’s no longer with us. The blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) merlot and canaiolo co-fermented in Manetti (Impruneta) terracotta. Once again the use of of aging vessels puts a Porciglia wine in vineyard light which means that time spent hidden away does nothing to take the land and soil out of the wines. As here with an IGT of acidity and tannins meant to express what the vines request. This is a very fine example of an ulterior Greve in Chianti (Classico) style. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli – San Casciano

A return visit to Poggio Torselli but this time with the new branding is called “Il Contadino Cusano” under the ownership of Italian-Canadian Pasquale Cusano from Puglia who moved to Vancouver after the famous Florentine flood of 1966. Cusano is a jeweller, publisher of Nuvo Magazine and proprietor of Poggio Torselli since 2021. There may be 83 hectares of vineyards but just 25 percent are used to bottle the wines and the rest is sold off as bulk.

With Cristina Fonte and Margherita Romagnoli – Poggio Torselli/Il Contadino Cusano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink. Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new brand “Il Contadino Cusano” takes flight in 2021 with Riserva (and no Annata produced) because of frost-related reduced yields. An exaggeration of the local Torselli Balsamico and also really tightly wound acidity matched with equal force by grippy tannins. This is a different wine than the Torselli Riserva of the past, now with greater vibrancy and energy. At this stage the wines are made by Alessandro Campatelli with consultancy assistance by Carlo Ferrini. Something special begins and brews with ’21. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new branding is called “Il Contadino Cusano” under the ownership of Italian-Canadian Pasquale Cusano from Puglia who moved to Vancouver after the famous Florentine flood of 1966. Now a jeweller, publisher of Nuvo Magazine and proprietor of Poggio Torselli since 2021. There may be 83 hectares of vineyards but just 25 percent are used to bottle the wines and the rest is sold off. The wound intensity of Riserva gives way to greater concentration and depth in Gran Selezione but the nervous energy is not the same. Here a more settled and luxe 100 percent sangiovese that will age well yet drink beautifully pretty much all the way through. Sneaky tannins creep onto the back palate and take hold. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

Just sangiovese, no wood, fermented and aged only in brand new concrete tanks. Carbonic maceration meets alcoholic fermentation. Made by Carlo Ferrini from fruit out of the Gentilino Vineyard purchased by Cusano in 2022 on the edge of San Casciano village behind the COOP grocery, direction Sant’Andrea in Percussina. The name refers to the “Citrus Bizzarria and fittingly the name translates as “oddity.” Bizzaria is the only citrus tree that produces three kind of fruits, a lemon, bitter orange and a third that combines the qualities of the two. That said there is nothing truly bizarre about this wine. Served chilled it might create a buzz on the palate and the uninitiated might see it as a surprise effect but in today’s vinously hip world this fits right in. The dictionary entry of glou-glou – and clean. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot at that time made by winemaker Alessandro Campatelli, fermented in steel and aged one year in barriques. A rich, concentrated, spiced, aromatically spicy and woody Bordeaux blend, but the local Balsamico can’t be denied entry into the overall character. Some toast in the barrels is broadly evident and this reminds of a South African red. Got that soil funk and earthy/peaty quality, finishing at ground espresso. Needs another year to integrate though the stuffing will only give it three more after that. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

The Bizzarria is a grafted tree combining Florentine citron with sour orange, was studied in the Medicean Gardens in the mid-17th century and produces separate branches of both citrus fruits. This Rosé. is made with equal parts sangiovese and pugnitello by way of a micro-generous two hour macerate skin-contact style so that the cheese rind and musky citrus skin combine for something you’ve experienced before. Extract and tannin compound the earthy complexity to mean that food is pretty much necessary as an accompaniment. Sformatino di Zucca with goat cheese just has to be the pairing. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Bizzarria 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

The last of the Citrus Bizzarria trees were discovered in 1980 by Paolo Galeotti, the “Citrus Archaeologist.” He grafted a twig from his find and waited three years before announcing the find of the strange citrus tree that grows lemon, orange and a fruit that is a combination of both. Il Contadino Cusano is an apt producer to use the name considering Poggio Torselli’s passion and aptitude for growing citrus in their incredible gardens. Bizzarria as Bianco is made with trebbiano and (less than five percent) malvasia with a long skin maceration and only stainless steel to age the wine. Negligible cheese and musky citrus as compared to the Rosato but also less extract and tannin because the grapes do not call for or are want to deliver the same kind of results. A clean and direct Bianco with ultra vibrant frescezza for refreshing use. Much easier to drink and a wine that would not necessarily require food alongside. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer growing and picked together, co-fermented and aged for six months in tonneaux. This being the second vintage from fruit out of just one hectare for the mildest of orange wines, sharp, tart, quite focused and developing texture as it goes. Like the juices of lemon, mandarin and something tropical (guava perhaps) with the consistency of a simple syrup. An unusual wine, semi-aromatic and the gewürz does not take any real control. There is a hint of rosewater and yet the chardonnay takes the lead. Pretty easy to knock back. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

With Bernardo Manetti, Jessica Dupuy and Giovanni Manetti

Fontodi, Panzano

Conca d’Oro, Vigna del Sorbo, Terraze de San Leolino, Pastrolo, Pietraforte, Macigno di Marne, Dino, Amphora, Flaccianello delle Pieve, Il Presidente del Consorzio and Manetti. So much has been written on these Godello pages about Fontodi over the years and so this link should sufficiently fill you in.

Fontodi Bianco Vino Biologico 2022, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

From a mixed vineyard, mainly of trebbiano and san colombano but just the trebbiano is chosen from the 50 year-old vines for a project that started in 2016 in response to climate change and a vineyard more consistently ripening the fruit. “You need to put your glasses on to find it,” says Bernardo Manetti and this being the sort of white that sees a maximum alcohol potential of 12.5 percent alcohol. Picked in mid October, aged in used 600L casks for six to eight months. Higher pH and lower acidity as compared to the sauvignon blanc and so a sapid white, never vivid or dramatic, chosen to develop character through wood and not maceration. Still the wine travels on an upward trajectory up the sides of the palate and back down again. “Effete tampone” is a sponging that happens with thanks to the lees naturally cleaning the wine to get it to this place of clarity. Just 800 bottles are produced. Last tasted February 2025

A new sku for Fontodi and the inspiration comes from the next generation, that being Bernardo Manetti. Made with vermentino, 50 year-old vines, fermented in 600L barrels, 2nd passage (previously used for sauvignon blanc Merrigio). Low temps, every day bâttonage, whole cluster pressed, no skin contact and use of dry ice. Picked at high acid and this is just about spot on but thankfully a dry if not exceptionally hot season has resulted in great freshness, piquant personality and a truly linear Bianco. This is smart and focused. Just a bit more than 12 percent alcohol. 780 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2022, Panzano

Like Dino (in amphora) the aging time in wood for Pastrolo is shorter and so this 2022 put to bottle in June of 2024. From the Lamole (UGA) vineyard pruned in a variation of alberello or goblet training style but the vines run higher due to Pastrolo’s steep terraces. The soils are unique, marine in origin and called marna di macigno, in other words a Galestro type of cracked or flaky manifestation, but in this case from sandstone. The grace and harmony of ’22 Pastrolo is soothing with a delicasse that no other Gran Selezione will ever show. It’s remarkable from this more than warm vintage and the 14.5 percent alcohol is barely perceived. This will wake you up, especially if you are tasting in the first part of the morning. Thank you Pastrolo. I needed that. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2022, Panzano

A finished wine because today is bottling day and what serendipity to taste it on the day. Vigna Del Sorbo is one of the vineyards that escaped the August 16th hail because it’s on the other side of the (Conca d’Oro) valley. Full quantity as a result, approximately one-third matured in new wood, the second year spent in older cask. Freshness captured and as always Vigna del Sorbo is the spiciest of the Gran Selezione but also the one of the three with the finest, if grainiest tannic profile. This after an aromatic wave of floral and mineral before giving way to a sangiovese that integrates with impunity. You’ve got to figure that the age of the vines are responsible for handling the heat of 2022. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Leolino 2022, Panzano

Just being bottled as we speak and the quietest opening pronouncement as compared to Pastrolo (Lamole) and Vigna del Sorbo (Panzano – Conca d’Oro). This from the terraces below and in surround of the Pieve up on the hill where Alberese soil predomimates, unique to Fontodi because schisty clay (with Galestro), Pietraforte (calacreous sandstone conglomerate) and Marna di Macigno (marine sandstone) define the other wines. The Alberese limestone makes for a crispier and more croccante sangiovese, magnified in 2022 and while this is also quite tannic the catalyst to exaggeration is made by the highest acidity of the three. Vinoso but even more succulenza, a very specific character that is San Leolino. In fact this Gran Selezione will take longer to come together, but again the vintage dictates and solicits this response. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Flaccianello delle Pieve 2022, Toscana Colli Centrale IGT

“Flaccianello for us is always the finest expression of Fontodi terroir and sangiovese grown in our territory,” says Giovanni Manetti. Truth and still a certain sense of irony as coming from the President of Chianti Classico consortium. Flaccianello was struck by hail in 2022 and so one third of the crop was lost because the western vineyard Poggio was obliterated on August 16th. The other two (Pecille and La Cappellina) survived and in the end the Pietraforte that runs through still granted the freshness, structure and especially acidity. There is a more immediate floral bloom and perceived balance from 2022, also sneakier tannins than the previous few vintages of Flaccianello. The longevity is a veritable guarantee, for 20-25 years and quite possibly more. Drink 2027-2042. Tasted February 2025

Federica Mascheroni – Volpaia

Volpaia – Radda

There are times when it feels as though in the Chianti Classico territory “all roads lead to Volpaia,” a saying that mimics the most famous one of “all roads lead to Rome.” Yet apropos in the context of Castello di Volpaia, meaning “fox’s lair,” though not actually a castle but formerly a walled in medieval village. Also the gateway to Monte San Michele at the peak of the Monti del Chianti. Historically significant within Radda and much of the village is owned by the Stianti-Mascheroni family, makers of Volpaia wine and oil. There is La Leggenda, the great tale of how the Gallo Nero came to be the symbol of Chianti Classico and then there is another La Leggenda, that being the matriarch of Volpaia, Giovanella Stianti. Her daughter Federica Mascheroni brings the family’s work to the world.

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Surprising perhaps because 2021 and well, Riserva but acidity is tops from Volpaia. Then again it’s sangiovese and should there really be any surprise? Just three-plus years in but my goodness how the holy trinity has come together to make this work right here, right now. Fruit, acid, tannin, all aligned horizontally, the first sliding into the second and in turn to the third. Ready and willing. Last tasted February 2025

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2000, Radda

Twenty-four years (and 25 to the vintage) later the Riserva from a cool-ish vintage shows its predicted predilection to arrive with acidity intact. The fruit is fully into chewy leather as dried plum and liquorice with the baking spice cupboard providing the accents. One of the first years of Lorenzo Reggoli’s tenure at Volpaia and very much one of his vintages – so there will always be an affinity for 2000 to be connected to the present day wines. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Coltassala 2021, Radda

The artist formerly known as Riserva and previous to 1999 also Toscana IGT is now become Gran Selezione, as of the 2015 vintage. Still it’s always been Coltassala, sangiovese inclusive of (five percent) mammolo. Like Riserva there is acidity more than merely qualified as Raddese but with this label extrapolated as Volpaia. Volpaia the hill below the Chianti mountains where structure is texture and mouthfeel is length. The Gran Selezione that speaks clearly in youth and so long as the catalyst driver leads the way it will persist like this for another 20 years. Last tasted February 2025

Always a concentrated sangiovese, from high elevation, solar radiated and night cooled vineyards. Still a five percent mixing in of ultra specific mammolo, spice bringer and catalyst to create this unique interaction with sangiovese. A fulsome vintage, fruit and tannins thick as thieves, luxe behaviour guaranteed and time on side for one of the longest runs to be had in Chianti Classico. The palate and mouthfeel are already showing signs of great activity and you could actually drink this now with the correct salty protein alongside. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted October 2024

Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Coltassala 2000, Radda

Impressive freshness persists because of Volpaia acidity, owing to location, location and location. Compared to the first Riserva 2000 there may not by any more concentration but there is more specificity and cool factor herbal notation. The Coltassala feels like it comes from a cooler vintage, even more so as compared to the non etichetta label and that puts it in a more complex situation. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2021, Radda

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always di Volpaia. Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040. Tasted February 2025

Roast Chicken and Mash Comfort lunch by Giovanella Stianti

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2020, Radda

Truly a different vintage for Il Puro as compared to 2021 for the Gran Selezione transformed in 2010, first made in 2006 after having been planted in 2000. This the GS understood to be worthy a full five years before Coltassala because the single vineyard concept and the greatness of the plot was noted earlier on. More herbology, dusty Balsamico quality and a notable aroma of wild “finnochio.” More rugged by comparison, rough and tumble, crunchy and taut. Tannins will take long to resolve and roasted protein is currently (and for the next five years will be) a must alongside. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Balifico 2021, Toscana IGT

Still and always two-thirds to one sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon, here from a wine almost too young to appreciate and yet at Volpaia there is always a window of accessibility because, well acidity. Location, elevation and the natural world conspire to allow every wine a chance at speaking about itself, even before the elements have come together to truly do so. The Mascherone-Stianti family always knew that sangiovese could speak for the place, to be understood by people who knew Bordeaux varieties better and to this day the IGT is based that way. This Balifico plays a part in the estate basilica for a vintage of many gifts abided by with utmost respect and expertise. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted February 2025

Volpaia Balifico 2000, Toscana IGT

Oh the delight of a chocolate “After-Eight” mint in a 24-25 year-old IGT from high elevation in Chianti Classico territory at the upper steps of the Chianti Mountains. Many local reds at the stage will just feel old or at least taste like a mouthful of liquid truffle but Balifico’s acids are intact, even though the aromas are already losing their lustre. One-third cabernet meets sangiovese and by now they may as well be equally dispersed because together they conjoin as one. Just a hint of tannin remains, likely not real but sensed anyway. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Shared birthday between Godello and Bettino Ricasoli

Ricasoli – Gaiole

Ricasoli and Castello di Brolio are two historic locations that have been visited on several occasions. This link will bring you back.

Related – Ricasoli, Barone Ricasoli

The last decade has been dedicated to the cru investigations above and beyond Gran Selezione. The three Gran Selezione are now Colledilà, Roncicone and CeniPrimo, each a unique and distinct iteration of Ricasoli’s most important identified blocks of their large amassment of Gaiole’s Chianti Classico terroir. Relatively recent news for Ricasoli is that the company now owns nine hectares in the UGA of San Donato in Poggio and also recently purchased two point five in Vagliagli, at 350m of elevation just below the Tolaini estate.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Francesco Ricasoli sets the 2023 up by describing it as “crispy,” which translates as freshness but who could not think of Brolio ‘23 as juicy. Classic black cherry for this label of 600,000 bottles encompassing all five soil types, 250 hectares and everything that is collected, layered and transcribed as the Ricasoli estate. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Campione: Youthful, still a bit reductive in a sweet bell peppery way, herbal amaro yet to stretch and let the fruit speak first. Good fruit however, substantial and showing Gaiole’s abilities for 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Riserva is truly the extension of Annata, from across the entirety of the Ricasoli estate and aged longer. Accedes to more concentration but still the Ricasoli style must be attended to; sharp, clean, drinkable and a provider of joy. This much is true and yes, the clarity is on display, so obvious in its openly generous and frank transparency. If there were rustic aspects 10 years ago they have long since left the building. It has been a matter of fine tuning, vintage after vintage. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Castello di Brolio 2021, Gaiole

The jump from Riserva to Gran Selezione is a significant one though the conceptualization remains similar, to draw from the various soils, of Alberese, Macigno and schistous clay manifesting as Galestro. There are other places within Chianti Classico that hold the cards to all the major soil groups but Ricasoli holds the great advantage of being able to variegate out of several micro-zones and climates. This makes for the most rounded Gran Selezione but also one with more layers than that of the other two appellative wines. And tou can drink this non-cru GS straight away. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2021, Gaiole

The first single-focused Gran Selezione (and one of four) is at its most floral and juiciest. In other words a sangiovese of great succulenza, accessible and no doubt the sort to attract great international attention, gracing top vintage and year-end lists, and for great reason. It draws you in and nurtures the palate with philanthropic generosity. No longer shy, already open and forthright, its character wise and strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Roncicone 2021, Gaiole

The soils are marine in origin, sandstone based with fossils present. The most sapidity of the three single-focused Gran Selezione, driven by soil, profound of conception, deeper thought and finally understanding. The sapid one indeed, taut and botanical, the soil type bringing out an herbal, verdant and tonic-inflected style. Baritone, with a low rumble and cool pool of fruit with seriousness of acidity. High level poly-phenolic sangiovese, recognizable as such to the greatest degree. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG CeniPrimo 2021, Gaiole

Comes from the vineyard with a west facing hill leading down to the Arbia River with fluvial terraces. The terroir of a geologist’s dream, pebbly with silt deposits on steep slopes that require three harvest passages, mainly due to the different fertilities of lower, middle and high parts. Like the Roncicone the phenolic presence is strong and in connection with the Colledilà the generosity is so very attractive. CeniPrimo might be a terrific mix of the two but soil and style conspire to make sure it’s a Selezione of its own accord. That is also defined by the highest tannins of the three and more time is needed to release its charm. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2025

Proud dad, uncle and Gallo Nero producer Giacomo Nardi

Nardi Viticoltori – Castellina

Giacomo Nardi worked at Castellare in Castellina and his brother at Casanova di Neri in Montalcino. Giacomo takes great pride in the wines being made at Nardi Viticoltori and when asked for what he considers to be a list of top winemakers, this was his response. Alessandro Cellai (Castellare), Carlo Ferrini (Pietradolce, Giodo, etc.), Gioia Cresti (Carpineta Fontalpino) and Paolo Salvi (Montevertine and Gagliole).

Curing salumi at Nardi Viticoltori

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2024, Toscana Bianco IGT

Made with 85 percent trebbiano and (15) malvasia just bottled three weeks ago. Simply meant as a white of “easy drinkability.” Sapid, mineral-metallic and well, juicy. Just 11 percent of alcohol, a bit leesy and quick to the point. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri was the name of Giacomo Nardi’s great-grandparents that lived on the farm more than 100 years ago. A 60-40 sangiovese and merlot blend, six months in wood. “Must be a gastronomic wine – 100 percent.” Red fruit, merlot softness and sangiovese acidity. Restaurant by the glass. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Sangiovese with five percent colorino and canaiolo first produced in 2014 now with the image of Siena’s skyline on the label. Soils are clay with some limestone and for Giacomo “the 2022 is better in the mouth.” Aged in a mix of Tuscan, Slovenian and French oak, “essential for aromatic complexity.” Now just in bottle for a bit more than a month, expressive of fruit in a broad way and the tannins are present in two parts, of softness and then in fine grains. Nardi picks on skin and alcohol – not on the pips. He insists they don’t necessarily have to be crunchy and brown. Surely a reaction to climate change and because he wants to make a wine of drinkability. Makes sense in Castellina and yes, there is more than ample ripeness in his 2022. Well done, Giacomo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Quite a different vintage now that the 2022 has been tasted and it sure seems like Giacomo Nardi and his brother took another step forward in 2022. This 2021 is a bit more rugged and just not as finessed in the mouth. Last tasted February 2025

For Giacomo the Classico is a “traditional blend and vinification.” Elevated and lifted aromatics from Castellina for Annata, aromatically charged, lifted, phenolic and allied to the palate with well ripened fruit. Sees time in Botti (Tuscan from near Ruffina) and Slavonian wood. Not so much a matter of volatility as about freshness, but a verdant stripe does run thorough the perfume’s middle. Cool, minty savoury, sapid and salty with a feeling of the endemic ethereal. Great curiosity and controlled intensity for Nardi’s 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted twice, February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

The first vintage was 2016, the following vintage was so hot and dry but Nardi did the yeoman work and made a truly drinkable wine. The 2021 is blessed of the good if basic red fruit vintage, here with more polish and refinement as compared to the Annata. You can feel the passion and the piety in this work. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Now five to nearly six years in bottle and still going strong, with thanks to moderate alcohol and even though Giacomo does not feel like the acidity is up to par – it still does what matters. There is in fact some elegance and plenty of life left in this challenged wine. Last tasted February 2025

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would have been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

Annata is a bit burly, Riserva more refined and Gran Selezione 2021 takes the finesse and focus to another level altogether. Certainly a more approachable GS as compared to the 2019 and again you can see just how much the Nardi brothers have figured out from one vintage to the next. Still vertical and yes the structure is serious but the integration of the Slavonian wood is more in tune with the fruit. Balsamico and croccante crunch for a special Gran Selezione out of 2021. Just 1,800 bottles produced. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

The first vintage, from Vigna del Pino to mark the Pine Tree at the top part, with only clay and no limestone in this block. Typical Castellina soil in this valley, a top vintage for Nardi and the fruit separated. “Old style of sangiovese that my father planted to the T12 clone.” Long maceration, up to 35 days after alcoholic fermentation and the style is indeed old school, vertical, fruit as purple as they come and it was Alessandro Cellai who identified the block when the grapes were being sold to Castellare. Sees 20 months in Slavonian Botti, acidity maintained is really high and the structure rumbles low below. Wait two more years for the grip to relax and the tannins to integrate. Last tasted February 2025

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the croccante and graffiante nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

The one and only Luigi Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano

Castello di Verrazzano – Montefioralle

There is arguably no visit in the Chianti Classico territory with more ambience, thrills, history, humour, top Tuscan comfort cuisine and quality wines than at Castello di Verrazzano. A few hours spent with Luigi Cappellini and daughter Maria-Sole Cappellini can’t be repeated enough. It all began with Giovanni da Verrazzano, Italian navigator and explorer for France who was the first European to sight New York and Narragansett bays and today the The Verrazzano-Narrows Suspension Bridge connects the New York City boroughs of Staten Island and Brooklyn. Verrazzano wa known as a humanist and man of science, much like Cappellini who came along 500 years later.

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Worthy exercise to taste 2022 next to the settled 2021 because you see how much bolder this next vintage really is. Silky sangiovese impurezza as it is said, warm and sun-ripened at elevation with a look to the Chianti Mountains due east. A syrup of fruit and acidity swirled and seductive, acids purely Montefioralle and a balance discovered throughout. Deeper and darker fruit, sinking into brooding and a sangiovese that will need time to shed it’s weight and rise up again. The acidity will see to that rising and when the weather warms in 2027 this Verrazzano will begin to drink as it should. Fine Annata and one that resembles the Gran Selezione, albeit as parts of the appellative whole. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted twice, at the winery and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Seems appropriate to taste ’21 almost exactly one year to the day later because this exact amount of time has settled the score. The energy has not waned even an iota and today’s pulse is triggered yet measured, like an athlete at rest. Behold a definitive Annata. Last tasted February 2025

For Verrazzano a complicated and in the end balanced vintage but who could have forecasted the restrained power and elegance. A 100 percent sangiovese vintage and one of somewhat shortened vindication to capture the grace and especially acidity of the vintage. A bit of maceration that hints at carbonic but no fizzy pulse. Almost a spicy sensation on the palate but really a matter of total energy. Bravo. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2008, Montefioralle

Aromatics indicate an older wine, pleasant and in the throes of primary to secondary transference, but the palate remains immersed in freshness. Succulence and energy in the mouth, cool, sweetly herbal and the fruit still pops. Ignore the historical thought of naysayers who said the 2008s would not age well – Verrazano’s has travelled through life without obstacle because its balance is impeccable. Why not imagine three more years at this level? Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Not sure if any significant movement was expected but none is forthcoming for Sassello 2018. Persistently punchy and grippy with tannins still at their peak. Feels formidably sapid at this stage and perhaps another six months will lighten the load. Last tasted February 2025

Not yet released and will have at lest three more months in bottle before that can happen. A strong vintage and normally the release would be the fall but both wood and fruit need to time to find each other. The substance in Sassello 2018 is, well substantial, in fact something more than that. Richness at the height of Verrazzano’s abilities but my goodness this packs a punch while also showing off the modernity and harmony that define this estate today. Bravissimo. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February and October 2024

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

More delicate than Sassello and the contrast is even more obvious from 2018 than it had been for 2017. Though the season developed darker fruit it is the freshness, luminosity and sweeter style of Balsamico that see great lift in this Gran Selezione. In a way a true expression of the word “onica” for mineralogy, “a variety of agate with concentric black and white streaks, or, more generally, with areas that present strong contrasts in colour.” As here from the wine’s core to its edges, in hue and feel, vinous meets gemstone and stony cool. Last tasted February 2025

The thing that connects Sassello and Valdonica is the vintage, the power and the full on substantial effects compactly packed yet carefully multi-layered. A swarthiness really separates this GS from Sassello in ways that put this in its own light. The aromas and flavours also bring in exotic spices but also a succulence that show how special and different this sangiovese truly is. It walks a fine line, flirts with danger and comes out singing. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Castello di Ama

Questa non è una finestra at Ama – Daniel Buren, Sulle vine punti di vista

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Only Ama could pull and gift this much upfront fruit to draw us in as quickly as we do. Richness accrued and balance incarnate, more than juicy acidity and fully encapsulating tannin. If this is what Annata is all about the ceiling is unlimited for San Lorenzo and the more interlocutory and focused single vineyard Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024 and 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2021, Gaiole

A mouthful of acidity, tannin and mineral direct and defining Ama’s Montebuoni 2021, a wine not yet mature enough to say the window has opened. Quite woody at this age while the dark fruit is so very substantial and so time is needed to melt them into one another. That acidity and seriousness of Balsamic quality speaks to the Gaiole origin as the source for this level of appellation. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted twice, at Ama and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2021, Gaiole

San Lorenzo the concept comes from the vineyard with that name and now the ideal conceives of Gran Selezione as a wine to speak for all of Ama’s Gaiole. The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2018, Gaiole

Aromatic, spicy, lifted and genuine. Extra layers, fruit of course and then floral, calcareously white peppery, luxe as per the appellative level and a matter of time. Vintage but also patience, the latter needed to understand the former, warm and developed, compact and yet never dense. To achieve this kind of acidity is remarkable. A matter of matching same parts to make up a whole. As per Marco Pallanti’s decades of dedication. “I am not a flying winemaker, I am a pedestrian one.” Drink 2024-2034. Tasted May 2023 and February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2020, Gaiole

Bellavista is first and foremost the Gran Selezione only made in select vintages, inclusive of 20 percent malvasia nera and also the one of ripest fruit with a view. The depth in 2020 is serious, the wine at once grounded and then acidity of a Gaiole nature kicks in to lift and see this Bellavista rise. Full and beautiful, seamless, orchestrated by a master of decades and artistic appreciation while delivering a modernist’s virtuoso performance. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2018, Gaiole

Bellavista the Gran Selezione is only made in select vintages and 2018 marks the first of three consecutive (likely with a fourth 2021 coming soon) after 2017 was passed over. A rare example of GS to include 20 percent malvasia nera and the beautiful view comes replete with riper than ripeset fruit. The depth from 2018 is akin to 2020 but with two further years having come and gone there is now a soft middle in between two grippy pieces of structure. This unique high elevation sector of southern Gaiole with its formidable ridges delivers the acidity of a località which always lifts Bellavista up to its precipice. At this stage it does already feel like looking back at a wine with its window fully open and the breezes blowing in. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2025

Baciate Me, San Casciano (Tasted with Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse in Montalcino)

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avvenne 2020, San Casciano

“Kiss me,“ a play on words for the three men who own the winery, including Le Chiuse and Castello di Meleto oenologist Valentino Ciarla and a vineyard he purchased in San Casciano during Covid. Avvenne loosely translates as “please let me have some more of something, but in one word” and truthfully that is how you will feel after a glass of this wine. It’s is a sangiovese with some canaiolo of very old vines, truly San Casciano with a feeling of the local macchia and a natural wild quality, of great temper matched by restraint. The wine rolls and oscillates in waves, acts juicy, very aromatic, light, at times dusty and yet the texture is flowing. Never sharp and just the right balance from a super tiny production. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at Le Chiuse in Montalcino, February 2025

Baciate Me 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

An old vineyard and from the aromatic grape higher in pH and lower in acidity but when really old vines are involved the balance is better. Tasted with Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli who believes that canaiolo should be bottled under glass cork (or why not screw cap) because under nature cork “the wine will lose more then it will gain.” In other words the grape can oxidize faster than sangiovese but here the freshness of the vintage persists and there is a unique, almost corrugated tannic profile. Currants and the Tuscan Corbezzolo, a unique expression that is in fact really expressive. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Good to go!

godello

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Back to the future of Montalcino

Mar13

The Fortezza di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous landmarks and home to the Enoteca della Fortezza which happens to double as a splendid place to taste a plethora of Brunello

Just last week Michael Godel presented a mix of the 2019 and 2016 Brunello di Montalcino vintages to 85 guests at Toronto’s Granite Club. Back in November of 2023 the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino came to Toronto and for that edition of Benvenuto Brunello Godello presented the 2019 vintage. There were more than 350 media and trade requests for 120 seats at the annual event, however in 2024 there was no presentation in Toronto, making the Granite Club tasting a truly exclusive event. Sincere thanks is owed to Sommelier and Head of Beverage Brent Fraser for his initiative in arranging a special and exclusive tasting of 13 top echelon Brunello for the club’s members. A week prior Michael had returned from Montalcino where he payed visits with six estates as a follow-up to 10 immersive November days at Benvenuto Brunello 2024.

Brunello at The Granite Club

The 2024 edition of Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino was Godello’s eighth consecutive opportunity to gauge the current state of the territory’s sangiovese. He sat and tasted in the Sant’Agostino Chiostro for three days, assisted as always by the incredible Sommeliers of AIS Siena and Toscana. Visits to estates were made at Canalicchio di Sopra, Donatella Cinelli Colombini (at Fattoria del Colle), Il Poggione, Cerbaia, Terre Nere, Val di Suga, Biondi-Santi, San Polo, Corte Pavone, Le Potazzine, Casanova di Neri, Ridolfi, Sasseti-Livio Pertimali and Podere Sante Marie.

If pasta were heaven at Alle Logge della Piazza

Godello’s November tasting notes covered 254 wines; Rosso di Montalcino DOC (29), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020 (73), Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna + Etichetta + Altra Tipologia 2020 (50), Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019 (54), older vintages (29), Toscana IGT + other wines (19). The wines tasted in February 2025 now bring the total to 278.

Godello presenting at Benvenuto Brunello Toronto, November 28, 2023

Coming back to Montalcino in the month of February was interesting on many levels. For years Montalcino was the last stop on a week long Anteprime di Toscana press trip before the Consorzio decided to go it alone in 2021. Now there was the comforting feeling of being in the village at a truly quiet time and without the hundreds of media, PR and producers having descended into the area. In November everyone is vying for visits to producers who have only so much bandwidth at that time. In February there is silence and tranquility. When in Montalcino there is often a return to the village at some point during the day. A quick walk to the city centre in between visits from producer drop offs and pick-ups more often than not takes in the Clock tower of Palazzo dei Priori at the heart of the village.

Montalcino, November 2024

Then there is the question of when is the best time to taste the new releases of Brunello di Montalcino. For many producers November is too early and this was one of the main reasons to move Benvenuto Brunello forward to February. That said the winter is a time when many wines (and also those resting in barrel) close down. Is February a good time to taste Montalcino’s sangiovese and to make decisions that play a role in determining the financial success of the wines? The answers are neither obvious nor necessarily constructive but they do promote healthy debate.

Costoletta di Vitello – Alle Logge alla Piazza, Montalcino

Sangiovese IS Brunello. There was a time when the Sangiovese Grosso clone dominated the vineyards but clonal diversity drives today’s agriculture – At Biondo-Santi their nursery houses 59 of them – all in the name of research to decide what grows best and where. The thing about Sangiovese is that it loves rainfall but does not love really hot seasons. That messes with its natural acidity but Montalcino lives and dies by the variety as the only denomination where every wine is 100 percent Sangiovese. There are other grapes grown around Montalcino but only Sangiovese makes Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino.

2024 Sangiovese – Le Chiuse

A little bit of advanced intel never hurt and so this is a 2024 harvest slide of Sangiovese stems taken by Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chiuse, who incidentally happens to be the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi and Magneli’s vineyards are planted to the the BS-11 Sangiovese clone developed by the family. Note the brown bits on the stems – not an indication of sugar ripeness but rather phenolic ripeness, an essential process that took a long time to develop in the 2024 vintage. September and October were cool and saw more rainfall since 1995. Some producers said you have to go back to 1993 or 1991 to find a similar vintage. But technology, experience and confidence are leaps and bounds ahead in today’s winemaking. The vintage will be a “light” one, with low alcohol wines – some will fall in less than 13 percent though we should expect them to be labeled at 13 and anything above that number will come in at 13.5. The wines will be beautiful, with top Sangiovese acidity and their potential for aging will be great.

2024 Stems – Le Chisue

On Godello’s recent February 2025 excursion the estates visited were Le Chiuse, Uccelliera, Sesti and Col di Lamo. Here are 24 further tasting notes for Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and other wines tasted over two days. These wines have been added to the Benvenuto Brunello 2024 list which can be viewed by clicking on this link. Montalcino and its wines are in a great position and Canadians should continue to engage with the Brunello, but also increasingly the Rosso. Understanding vintage variation, the work being put in by producers to meet never-ending challenges and how the wines are evolving are all part of the greater awareness and in turn, understanding. Back to the future of Montalcino.

Lorenzo Magnelli, Le Chiuse

“Another unique aspect of ’23 was the colour of the skin – black, not blue, like pinot noir. It usually looks like the colour of the blue ocean and in 2023 it was darker.” The words of Lorenzo Magnelli. Aromatic and fruity, like raspberry and currant but really floral, right form the very beginning.” Truth spoken and persistent from a vigorous season and Magnelli always picks at sunset when the temperatures are lowest. A unique Rosso for Le Chiuse and by extrapolation also the vintage, drinking dutifully and beautifully right away and while it may not seem so structured these tannins are quite sneaky. “A Rosso di Montalcino that goes straight to the point.” You get exactly what it and Lorenzo are saying. You listen and you like the story. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Campione – Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Now to the opposite end, tasted side by side with 2023, because it’s a very structured vintage. “I’m curious because it’s been two years since I tasted this wine,” says Lorenzo Magnelli, also because of 30 percent loss to the April 7th frost. But Magnelli reminds that he is not the proprietor of Le Chiuse – it’s the weather that owns the place. He is in fact its curremt custodian but just as members of the Biondi-Santi family came before him, so will others take over when he is done. How you take your turn, play your part and deal with different seasons is what makes your best wines. The 2021 is still tannic and vertical from the vintage of the last 10 years with the highest acidity, that along with power making this a most unique wine, but also time to be tasting it. The vines were quite stressed and so the tannins are not perfectly ripe but the acidity takes control. A warm one and when skins are thick there is less juice for the tannins and even more importantly acidity being the driver. Never jammy as a result, elastic and ultimately built with more complexity. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Le Chiuse, February 2025

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2013

First look at 2013 – A vintage missed for some reason. “What do you remember about 2013?” is the question asked to Lorenzo Magnelli. “Always sunny and cold, never too hot. In August there were summer storms with hail in Montosoli but none at Le Chiuse.” Late-picked in October at sunset, as always. First bottle quite evolved and yet the sweetest natural display of fruit with persimmon and strawberry and the second bottle a bit closed, showing almost no evolution and announcing the requiem for time. “For 2013, a great density of tannins and nice because it’s a vintage that shows the right muscles.” Elegant and truly elastic because the acidity keeps snapping the fruit back on the palate. It’s amazing actually and this allows for a release, reminding Lorenzo of 2016 and the brightness of the taste defines the wine because it keeps your palate alive. Vibrancy in a 12 year-old Brunello (which for Magnelli is only two when it’s Riserva), is not too bad. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Tasting at Le Chiuse

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2015

First look at 2015 Riserva in bottle from Canalicchio di Sopra. A vintage of warmth, impressive tannic structure and in this case acidity acting as catalyst and driver for the wine. The freshness has not missed a beat, fully intact, rising still and bringing the goods from the great Mercatale vineyard. The very fact is that at 10 years the moment arrives to enjoy a bottle of Canalicchio Riserva and here we are at exactly that moment. The window is open. Fineness incarnate, a vintage some say is less important than 2016 but who could not love and appreciate this Brunello all the same. They are different and both great. Last tasted February 2025

A preview sample. Comes from fruit grown in the oldest two hectare vineyard of Vigna Vecchia Mercatale. The vines were planted in 1987 and in good vintages the potential is gifted, not a matter of grand impact but one of the land, the soil, the brown clay minerals and the elements. And so it’s a matter of longevity and potential, not brut strength. A beautiful example of Riserva, focused, precise and fine. And yet the style is poised in position along a line that includes the Brunello and the Riserva so homogeneity in these soils is more than apparent. This part of Montalcino makes this kind of wine and this house celebrates the consistency. Drink 2022-2036. Tasted February 2020

With the Brunello Boys

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Defines the classicism of a Brunello di Montalcino from its time and also vintage, when vines ripened sangiovese to the optimum, what Francesco Ripcaccioli would call an 8.5 because as a number 10 is both unattainable and obtuse. In full control of its shape and faculties, a 12-plus year-old wine that has shed its tannic freight, integrated acidity into the fabric of design evolving into the nurture of secondary life. Freshness persists but in the way a Brunello of this age and stature should rightly be doing. A terrific example to speak on behalf of a territory’s località but also in the broader sense of and for Montalcino. Last tasted February 2025

“Reduction is a way to preserve the freshness and the florals of the wine,” tells winemaker Francesco Ripaccioli. Sangiovese is better set up and suited this way and while some Balsamico is now speaking through this ’12 Riserva’s voice, much of the aromatics are still situated in the realm of a high-toned grace. Tasted February 2020

A year previous to the ’13 Riserva (which will be made exclusively from Montosoli hill fruit) there is the depth of clay and controlled power out of Canalicchio cru vines. The absolute attention paid to patience and time is noted from a Brunello such as this, spoken out within the constructs of fruit extraction and wood usage. The tannins are red meaning they are ripe and request that you give this wine as much time as it gave before going to bottle and then to market. Lush, consistent from start to finish and just hinting at notes not quite Balsamico but something other, something derived from sangiovese grown in the grey clay of La Casaccia. Drink 2021-2032. Tasted October 2019

Cortonesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Just bottled one week ago and hello to a ’23 that Tommaso Cortonesi says is “very close to the Rosso di Montalcino style that I want for my winery.” Tommaso has been working and honing his concept of Rosso for more than a decade and this first look at its next iteration seems somewhat of an aggressive one. That is the idea and Cortonesi admits how others who faced major 2023 challenges were jealous of the quality and quantity of La Mannella’s harvest. Palate intensity is off the charts, there is a spicy element happening and structure is tops for Rosso. There are Brunello makers who would kill for this combination of substance and style. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Though released six-plus years after the harvest Tommaso Cortonesi says “this is the first Riserva that I bottled more than one year earlier than the rest.” This because he now prefers that the wine refines one extra year in bottle and not in botti. For him Riserva is not necessarily the “top pick” of the vineyards or vintage but rather a Brunello of a different or ulterior approach. “A matter of style,” he explains, “an example of northerly Montalcino.” Now in bottle two years and emphatically not a powerful Riserva but something cooler, more refined and well, fine. There are wines to speak as sangiovese, Brunello or Montalcino and then there are Riserva that amalgamate all three in equal pronouncement, in concentrated concern, executed with reserve and balance to speak as Riserva. Rich and generous, high level quality and quantity of acidity, no hidden fruit or brilliant disguise. Instead there is transparency, focused intensity, everything up front and personable. Like its maker. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2025

Andrea Cortonesi, Uccelliera

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Sister property Voliero opens with easy access, as does Uccelliera but there is more structure in this 2023 Rosso. Was not fully expected but there it is as verticality and while not exactly closed – it’s not an open book by any stretch. Use your imagination to look ahead and be prepared for a sangiovese equipped to unravel over a long and slow period of time. Masterful example for the vintage. “The starting point for the territory and the wine that proves the ability of Montalcino is Rosso.” His explanation and Andrea Cortonesi will never take this wine for granted. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

More expressive now than the Voliero and so the theory of closing down in February is not locked in, but still the cold weather is not ideal for tasting a young Brunello. This expressiveness is attributed to the master blending work of Andrea Cortonesi and the freshness captured form this mix of low-lying, mid and high elevation vineyards. The sapidity and energy are on display, both at full but the graph is a rolling one and there will be many greater days laid out ahead. Last tasted February 2025

It’s all in the farming and you will all be hard-pressed to find fruit riper yet with an edge, fulsome while pulsing with energy and rolling in texture – though still always elastic. The subtleties may be fine but the difference is unequivocal and here Annata for Brunello is akin to Riserva. This is because the brings 2020 fruit so forward while also extending the high probability of its longevity looking well ahead. Minimum 10 years because the backbone is not only strong but malleable and amenable to change. That’s how you do it my friends. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2024

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

The bottle tasted in November 2024 was clearly less than perfect and not representative. Here the energy rises while intrigue runs seriously high. Picked on the 12th of October and tells Andrea Cortonesi, “there was not a single berry showing a difference in colour, nor were there any that were not perfectly healthy.” First and foremost the tannins are fine, finessed and lengthy. And yet this is a confounding wine because it will rise, fall and then rise and fall again, in the way of a great bottle of Bourgogne. This 2019 Riserva is that kind of wine. There are years laid out ahead before the reaching of its potential, perhaps five, if not even more. Aromatically speaking the ’19 Riserva has arrived at a great moment but somewhere around 2029 the plateau should be reached. Ten years further will see to the best years and life lived for this impeccable sangiovese. Drink 2027-2037. Last tasted February 2025

Maturity and just a step away to over maturity from Riserva 2019 taking this into a sappy and braised place. Lacking some focus and also structure as a result. This is a bottle that suggests the wine that got away from its maker but would certainly look forward to tasting another bottle. Tasted November 2024

With Andrea Cortonesi, Uccelliera

Voliero Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Fundamental difference between Voliero and Uccelliera are twofold; Sant’Angelo in Colle vineyards versus those in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, non-ownership and ownership. Sill the approach and philosophy are the same. Cooler and fresher for Voliero because of elevation and from 2023 the phenolic development in optimum range with more fullness of fruit and structure inherently pleasant. Earlier drinking Rosso of quick usability. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Three months later and a bit closed, not a shock because this is winter, the days are cold, the vines have no leaves and while there may be no scientific evidence to this – well the wines close down too. Therefore tasting in November is a much better idea. Last tasted February 2025

A sister sangiovese and a younger one that tries to do everything its older sibling does. That means be a child of most experienced agriculture, even if vines are younger and their acumen has not fully developed. No matter because less concentration is belied by more subtlety and fruit coming around a bend will gleefully join and climb the constructive elements of the wine. Quite fine in its own right, if perhaps crispy, crunchy and excitable. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

Sesti, Castello di Argiano

Sesti Sauvignon Vino Bianco 2024, Toscana IGT

Having grown up in Venice, Giuseppe “Giugi” Sesti thought it would be wonderful to have some white wine, in spite of and against the recommendations of everyone in Montalcino. He planted sauvignon vines in the coolest part of the estate to become the house white and the first Montalcino (1990 vineyard) white was born. A sauvignon for those who maybe don’t like the grape and now a 34 year-old plot making for a crisp, fresh, no wood expression, bloody delicious and refreshing white wine. A bit of a leesy character to say that Giugi created something that is now simply glou-glou. Infatti! A legacy piece of Sesti left behind and another reason to say thank you to the grace of his life well lived. On average 3,500 bottles are produced. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosato 2024, Toscana IGT

An OG Rosato first produced in 2004, like the sauvignon a matter of choosing a cooler growing spot for the intention of purity, freshness and this crunchy character. An extrapolation on the idea of L’Ombretta, a light red from Venice that you drank in the summer shade. Made at a time when Rosé was not in Italian fashion and today it represents that which is salty, crispy and refreshing. Made from grapes that might have otherwise be dropped, picked early, pre-dawn, an hour or two of skin contact (although that first 2004 was eight!). Originally presented as “il moglie di Brunello,” the wife of the Grand Vin, with a spinal cord so sharp and attacking the palate, but also the acidity matching to dishes that beg for this sort of wine. Is it still a curiosity? Yes actually because it’s a beautiful thing of its own. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Torre, Castello di Argiano

Sesti Grangiovese 2024, Toscana IGT

Solo sangiovese going back to a 1980s Giuseppe Sesti portfolio concept that included the sauvignon and Rosato labels, of fresh, crisp and crunchy drinking wines for sipping in the summer shade. From a time when no one really knew the intimacy and intricacies of sangiovese. “Il grande sangiovese,” a playful way with words and a truly gancio varietal wine here from 2024. To only use the word acidity would not be correct because there is more, a sapidity and more of a basilico herbal quality with vibrancy a step ahead of Rosso. Opens quickly with immediate invitation. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

“Rosso for us has always been a very important wine, despite the Anglo concept of it being considered a “Rouge de Beaune.” A meaningless expression in the eyes of Elisa Sesti because I might indicate sangiovese unqualified to be Brunello. “Nonsense!” Sesti’s vineyards did not succumb to the Perenospera (mildew) disaster because the vineyards lie in a valley, although careful attention had to be given. The forest is the lung and there was no law as to the what or how of guaranteed control, but still the losses were mitigated. Rosso is therefore a matter of quantity and quality with this being equipped with some impressive fruit, a true macchia mimicking the cacti that grow and for Rosso a serious structured wine. Gripped by tension and intensity, not quite open and looking to live a long life. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2024

Elisa Sesti

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Intensity runs high at this stage and while the time of year might be when the most recent Brunello releases could close down, such is not the case with Sesti 2020. That said it was a bit early to taste back in November. And so when we learn how to read Brunello then we can handle the exercise with some acumen. At least more than how we managed yesterday. Last tasted February 2025.

Quiet, demure and always the sepia toned style of sangiovese of a soft, retro-nostalgic aesthetic, yet blessed with controlled and restrained energy. Flowing, graceful, always mindful and yet youthful and so a bit troubled. Fruit at elevation with wind blowing through its canopies, expressed in this Brunello di Montalcino walking with a purposed gait, always just a few centimetres off the ground. Weightless in this sense but at the end of a glass the flavours, sliding while caressing textures and then feelings pout forth before settling back down to the ground. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

Winter 2025 is closing time, even more so than the 2020 Brunello, in a state of quiet flux and pre next moment exuberance. Do not even think about opening 2019 Phenomena any time soon. Certainly not before the fall of 2026. Last tasted February 2025

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2024

Colombaio at Col di Lamo, Torrenieri

Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

First look at Giovanna Neri’s 2022 Rosso at a time when others are already starting to pour their ‘23s but hers will not be ready for several months. The decision to stay the course with ’22 is correct because the bones of this Rosso keep it sturdy and the acidity maintains positive vibrancy. Crystal clear, correct and a Rosso to age a few years. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Loving the vibrancy of the 2020 Brunello, a sangiovese of excitement and persistence without any moment of closed behaviour. No change from November. Last tasted February 2025

Poised, striking, quiet and composed, hard to figure but my goodness curiosity is piqued. Tall drink of sangiovese water, elixir of Brunello, confident, beautiful and sure. Strikes a varietal pose, statuesque yet fluid, malleable as it needs to be, equipped to transform and age with grace. Wood is known, applied with expertise, for more than just appearance but to explain this to be a Brunello 2020 of and for to enjoy a great experience. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2024

Giovanna Neri and Elisa Sesti deep in conversation at Col di Lamo, Torrenieri

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A Diletta 2019

Fruit for A Diletta comes from the mid-slope of Col di Lamo’s east facing hill but in vintages when it’s not made (and Riserva is therefore also passed over) then the fruit is blended into the Brunello. A cru selection and beautiful composed in 2019. Last tasted February 2025

A special label for the estate and so very different as a sangiovese than either the Annata or Riserva of 2019. There is no missing the vineyard and climate because a special kind of Machia Medditerranea exudes from out of the evergreen perfume. No confusion whatsoever and a quality but also demand of tannins that Riserva will here show. This Etichetta is a special wine and clearly represents a singular expression that could only be of itself. Tasted November 2024

“A Diletta,” dedicated to Giovanna Neri’s daughter and a Brunello of one vineyard only two hectares in size. The fruit is indeed richer, deeper and in a way more vibrant than the Annata but it’s also equipped with finer tannins that stand up to the fleshiness of the sangiovese. There is also more wood involved and that aspect will need a few years to melt, settle and resolve. Could be five or more before that work is finished. This carries a feeling that is usually one from Riserva conceived Brunello so that should give you an idea of where it is and where it will go. Milk chocolate on the finish. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Retrospective look 11-plus years back at a vintage when tasted in 2017 was considered not much more than average, though personally speaking the charm, defference and grace at that time was felt with raw emotion. The ‘13s are a curious lot that age with the widest range of style plus character with Col di Lamo’s being an exotically charged sangiovese of aromatic character and complexity. More wood than recent vintages though here it has melted into the delicate fabric of the wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Col di Lamo

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Warm vintage and yet so much vibrancy from Brunello 2012. Twelve-plus years forward and still shaping into its secondary personality, showing with grip, energy and intensity. Red fruit persists with liquorice and dark chocolate but acidity does so well to keep everything in view. Surprisingly seductive and true when it is said that Brunello at this age can be a selective lot. As are we. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Palmiro, Col di Lamo

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

The first vintage was 2003 but for argument’s sake we’ll call this the first important commercial vintage of Giovanna Neri’s Brunello career on a piece of Torrenieri land at the northeastern edge of Montalcino. The house above is Colombaio but there are several places with that or a variation on that name and so she chose the hillock (Col) of Lamo. The colour of ’06 looks like to be the eyes of age but the nose is vibrant, of wild strawberry and frutta di bosco, quite fruity and persistent. The palate flavours are wild and mature but the acidity is pure sangiovese. A fully resolved wine well into secondary and arriving at tertiary, but it’s a true joy to taste. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2024

Good to go!

The Fortezza di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most famous landmarks and home do the Enoteca which happens to double as a splendid place to taste a plethora of Brunello.

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse XLVIII Brut Carricante Método Classico 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

Etna Days are here to stay

Dec6

Versante Nord, L’Etna

As an event Etna Days may only be four years in the making, but it is a great one. That it falls in the second week of September is a thing of brilliance, with weather warm and nurturing, grapes continuing to hang on the vines, the harvest on producers’ minds and yet still far enough away. The setting is spectacular, with ancient lava flows all-around, signs of new ones spewing from craters above 3,000 metres, vineyards marked by stone terraces and walls, century vines thriving here, there and everywhere. No two blocks look the same with each producing a unique Etna Bianco or Rosso. Confidence and morale feel to be at an all time high.

The Sommeliers of Etna Days

Never mind the challenges of 2023, including a May 3rd hailstorm, some but far from devastating presence of the Perenospera (mildew) virus and lower vine yields. What will follow the lower quantity and high quality of 2023 will by now have been the promise of a brilliant 2024 harvest. The Etna DOC Consortium suggests that the latest rains after the hot and dry summer have slowed down the ripening process, thereby helping to enhance phenolic and aromatic components. Slower and more gradual maturation proved to be decisive in terms of improvements in quantity and quality. The Consortium estimates a harvest of around 80,000 quintals (about 35/40% white grapes and the remainder red) and a likely production potential of more than 55,000 hectolitres. In terms of volume, the harvest is expected to be up by around 60 percent compared to 2023.

La Gelsomina Di Colombo

There is no understanding of modern Etna without a proper historical base and that begins with the ancient, but also more recent visualization of the Palmento. In some cases outdoor stone remains can be seen, including that of the 1300 year-old Palmento at Rupestre in Pietramarina, Castiglione di Sicilia. It was excavated out of one rock, a vasca carved from the sandstone, a lagares for treading on grapes used by the Sicel peoples, early settlers in eastern Sicily. The island is littered with archeological sites that prove the existence of winemaking going back three thousand years but on L’Etna it is the presence of restored stone buildings where, with the use of gravity, grapes would have been collected and fermented into wine. At Palmento Costanzo the buildings that housed the original wine making were restored in 2015 and finished in 2019. The technology is new but the gravity fed Palmento abides by the old ways.

Alberello planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis at Palmento Costanzo, Contrada Santa Spririto

For centuries I Catanesi would have come up the mountain to purchase in bulk where necessitous viticulture was born in harmony but also with respect to the landscape. In the 19th century approximately 100 million litres of wine was produced on Mount Etna, all from the various Palmenti. Wine born of a place with an active volcano rising above vineyards at 3,300m of elevation, a climate unlike anywhere else on Sicily and a terroir aboard geology conceived from hundreds of various lava flows throughout the course of its history. The differences in biodiversity from block to block, contrada to contrada and village to village are evident in the multifarious plant life growing on the extant slopes of the volcano.

Consorzio President Francesco Cambria

The various lava flows, each with a unique set of stone in chronological stages of degradation, from the hardest lava rock through gravels and into sand are all characterized by a distinct set of weathered minerals and elements contained within. How each corridor and at what elevation affects the endemic grape varieties is a great mystery and so many of us will spend a lifetime trying to make some sense of the how and why. The Etnaese carricante, white and red minnella, nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio are children raised and nurtured by the slope, elevation and geological make-up that is their home on the mountain.

Etna Days Rosso

Whether by Alberello or modern day Guyot or Cordone Speronato training it is the age and disintegration of soil that seems to be the greatest influencer on their outcomes. Serena Costanzo talks of the innovative pruning method of Simon & Sirsch, of which “the principle rule is ramification – build a chronology of live wood; first year, second year, third year and so on” with a method that does not interrupt the lymphatic system. They remind that “a vine is not a tree, but a liana” and that “pruning, which is and remains a mutilating technical act for the plant, causes consequences within the plant…a rethinking of pruning, so that it was more respectful of the physiology of the plant.” There are ramifications, the necessity of continuance for sap flow, to make small cuts and hold a respect for the wood. They have observed “how the application of a dynamic and physiological pruning of the plant promote an increase in living wood over the years, with a consequent intact and efficient lymphatic system.” Their most essential reminder is that “there is no good or bad pruner but there is a trained and an untrained pruner. The Simon & Sirsch system “is a way to combat climate change,” says Serena, “especially during periods of extreme heat.” Nerello Mascalese trained by Alberello and planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis works opposite to traditional rows and is Palmento Costanzo’s way of maximizing root structure and efficiency.

With John Szabo M.S. and Consorzio Director Maurizio Lunetta

It bears reminding that L’Etna is a an active volcano and so what spews out and forth from its craters will constantly affect viticulture. The new settling of wind-carried ashes and lapilli are perpetually adding new layers to old soils which in turn induces innate revisions and so from vintage to vintage Etna’s wines are always in flux, forever subjugated to constant change. One only needs to have tasted the last few vintages of the Etna Bianco Superiore from the village of Milo to intuit just how significant an effect these wind-blown fragments have had on the wines. They have never been more intriguing, exciting and frankly better. Studies of these eastern Etna soils in a cooler micro-zone show significant levels of silica, iron, magnesium and potassium in the soils, combining to gift the Bianco with much to digest.

Related – All the wines of Sicily

That is the past and from the start of the First World War through to the 1970s and 1980s the wine business aboard L’Etna fell away to pieces. It’s resurrection is but 30 years in the making and the transformation of the past 10-plus years is nothing short of remarkable. The oenologist, farmer and cellar dweller will say that the use of Palmenti and the Alberello are key to restoring dignity, faith in humanity and the true essence of what it means to produce Etna wines. Consorzio President Francesco Cambria will say that the most important project is to see the passage of the denomination transform from the Italian DOC to DOCG. These are all matters to consider and get behind, for some it’s about the heart and for others the reality of business and therefore life.

Carlo Flamini, Maurizio Lunetta, Luigi Moio, Bertrand Gauvrit and Francesco Cambria

Etna Days is an exceptionally well run and seamlessly orchestrated event with thanks to the teams involved. Consorzio Etna DOC’s Presidente Francesco Cambria, Direttore Maurizio Lunetta and Segreteria di Direzione Sarolta Stella Osvath. The team at Ispropress with Angiolino Lonardi, Bernardetta Lonardi, Simone Velasco, Sara Faroni, Marina Catenacci, Marta De Carli and Eleonora Alberti Cermison. The third edition of the 2024 Etna Days congress assembled for the first morning’s welcome with expanded perspectives and analyses of international dimension. Cambria and Lunetta hosted speeches by Carlo Flamini (Head of the Italian Wine Union Observatory), Bertrand Gauvrit (General Director of the Association des Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne) and Luigi Moio (President of the International Organization of Vine and Wine). Sommelier assisted technical tastings, walk around chats with the producers and touring visits at estates all combined to deliver a profound sense of modern day Etna. High-level discussions were had on location with Tenuta delle Terre Nere’s Marc de Grazia, Benanti’s Salvino Benanti, Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa’s Pietro Giovanni, Rupestre and Terre Darrigo’s Rosario Raciti, Palmento Costanzo’s Valeria and Serena Costanzo, Quantico’s Giovanni Raiti, Tascante’s Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia and Planeta’s Patricia Tóth. For his part Godello made tasting notes on 150-plus wines. These are his reviews.

Etna Spumante DOC and Terre Siciliane IGT

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse Brut Carricante Método Classico 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Twenty years into the (traditional method) sparkling wine program with help from a northern (Suditrol) sparkling wine company, 24 months on lees. Brut which here means 4-5 g/L of residual sugar, more than relatively dry with carricante. Reductive, high energy, tight and immovably youthful. Dried herbs, fennel, brushy and dusty savour. Acidity is quite fine, balance is struck and the lees aging time spot on for this widely appealing yet serious sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

The Noblesse was named because Giuseppe Benanti saw himself as identifying with high level French sparkling wines and this next tier rise sees the wine remain on lees for 48 months. Similar RS (below 5 g/L) but the extra time brings quite a factor of autolysis as a by-product of time. Yeast-bready in just the correct way, harmony struck between the autolytic notes and acidity yet with a higher pH and lower acid profile. Quite a different expression of carricante as sparkling while co-existing within the same Benanti family. Both wines feel like they really carry a purpose, including for what sector of the market they are looking to make their appeal. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Lamorèmio Brut Rosé Método Classico 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Like the Noblesse Brut this sees 24 months on the lees with nerello mascalese as a Rosato which comes away feigning sweetness more than the carricante, even though the sugar (at 5-ish g/L) is just about the same. Acid structure carries the sweetness and the weight, length is good and this is surely the more all-around style taht offers wide ranging appeal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut Librato 2020

Made with just a small part of nerello mascalese from Contrada Muscamento for a total blanc de noir production of 500 bottles. Livrato is poetry, in ode to Michaela Luca’s mother who was an avid reader. Base wines are kept on lees with bâttonage and the wine also spends 30 months on the gross lees. High energy, sharp, pointed and full on tang, enough freshness but also some weight to be sure. Citrus makes a statement and without any dosage there should be a piercing effect but that’s simply not the case. Quite impressive sparkling for L’Etna. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Rosé Método Classico 2021

Lightest Rosato hue, in part because the Gelsomina style is all about clarity and freshness, as far away as possible from oxidation and especially autolysis. No brioche or yeast derivative aromas, just red fruit, primary and juicy. The lees aging time is minimum 36 months but the winemaking does everything possible to stay reductive and with minimum contacts or stagnancies. Rosato is a step more complex than Blanc de Noir if not quite as energetic. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Blanc de Noir Método Classico 2021

When Etna DOC added Spumante to the disciplinare 10 years ago Gelsomina (partner of Tenute Orestiadi) was ready and was amongst the first to bottle under the allowable labelling. The blend is 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio, minimum 36 months on the lees. Brut at six g/L of residual sugar. Good thing the acidity is captured and kept because there is no shortage of flesh, fruit ripeness and creamy texture. Clean, fresh, accessible and well made. The choice is clear, to avoid autolytic notes and so the yeasty and bready style is for someone else. A Gelsomina is the exact opposite. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut

A 24 months on lees traditional method sparkling wine, disgorged in February 2024, Brut style. Feeling like 5-6 g/L of residual sugar, tart and ably if typically carricante. Fine bubble, tight and sure with a botanical component. Clean and just feels right with a cheese plate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Etna Rosato DOC

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosato DOC Lunabuona 2022

In 2022 Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti chose to invest in a small 1960 planted vineyard at 680m on the North slope of L’Etna in the village is Rovittello, a suburb of Castiglione di Sicilia in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo. Their Rosato is 90 percent nerello mascalese with (10 combined) minella nera and bianca. A unique Rosé, equal parts salinity an sapidity which essentially translates to 100 percent volcanic. This is currently their largest volume sku at 1,600 bottles and with the extra year of aging it drinks beautifully, at peak and with grace today. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

From Rosso vineyards, looking for freshness and very little sugar but also low alcohol. Only steel, three months, bottled in February. Rich of fruit, salty, crunchy and for Rosato also complex. Tons of flavour, strawberry and some leafy savour. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May and September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Energy noted straight away, a carbonic nerello mascalese buzz that drives Rosato to stand up and be noticed. Comes right at the senses, aromatically floral and palate treble tremble to pique interest and taste sensations. Full fruit and mineral working together for flavour and character. That’s what it’s all about . Last tasted September 2024

Equally fruity and vegetal, of red berries and peppers, a tartness and also lactic cheese note. Herbal as well and so complexity as Rosato if on the acquired taste side of style. Crunchy and salty, briny to a degree, naturally wild and free. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosato DOC 2023

So similar to the Terre Darrigo Rosato made by Rosario Raciti with 100 percent nerello mascalese fermented and simply allowed to go from vine to glass. The difference is location and terroir. What does that mean? Contrada Pietramarina fruit, salinity and acidity, grip and tension. Otherwise just the Rosato and mascalese facts. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosato DOC Tefra 2022

Aptly labeled “Vigne Custodite dalla Famiglia Tasca d’Almerita,” a statement to make sure we understand these nerello mascalese grapes are estate grown. Aromatic varietal volume, energy and spirit run high, yet most notable are the wealth and depth of flavours. Cherry moving into strawberry with a basic phenolic presence and that is very much all you want and need. Not a high acid Rosato, nor was that the intention. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosato DOC 2020

Only nerello mascalese from the lower and most vigorous part of the vineyard and grapes are chosen specifically for the Rosato. No wood like the white, once again to preserve the volcano’s effect on the wine, which is essential and when Rosato is made like this, also profound. This is a specific kind of salty, to Bosco’s vineyard and the mascalese that grows. Just three hours or less skin contact, quick maceration, no thought to colour, as with every wine in this portfolio, the place on Versante Nord is the heart of each and every matter. Already two years old, evolving very slowly and there is no reason to think it will not continue this way for another two or three more. Tranquility but also energy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Only nerello mascalese as per the norm for Etna Rosato DOC and another salty little number with satisfying juiciness and grip. Direct, unadorned, almost no barrel, perhaps just a few percent. Straight fermentation, let it sit and ride. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

With Alberto Graci, Giuseppe Russo and John Szabo M.S.

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Nice and smoky Etna Bianco from Alta Mora though the fruit is equally adamant about gaining your trust. The smoulder equalized by the pulpy flesh of fresh bites into orchard fruit and a touch of finishing spice. Not the most complex but surely robust for the category. Last tasted May and September 2024

Solid and well made Etna Bianco in the ways of respect and tradition, ample, fulsome, substantial and structured for a wine that will drink well three-plus years forward. Citrus mainly, both lemon and lime, cool, not quite minty but surely like fresh summer basil and then a pinch of salt at the finish. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Bianco DOC Petralava 2023

Soda and neutral fruit intro which is par for the Etna Bianco course and certainly not unexpected. In other words mineral led, volcanic obviously and yet cool, gelid, mildly if sweetly botanical. A shot in the dark, unexpected and how can you not be thankful for a wine of this stature you knew nothing about. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Outis 2022

Fruit up front but in a botanical way, less basaltic mineral salty and more sapid as a result. Still it carries a set of elements that conceptualize the Bianco, however the peachiness and sweet preserved citrus set this one up to be a mellow sort of affair. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Chianta 2021

A more important label for Biondi and therefore aged an extra year ahead of release. Chianta the top Bianco cru and clearly a matter of longer maceration magnified by the extra aging. Not only noticed in hue but that natural salve texture settling while also dissolving nicely on the palate. A more interesting and satisfying iteration to speak credibly for the winemaking intent and also a matter of style. Then some crispiness and crunch to speak for captured and persistent freshness. Fine work. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Sweetly aromatic waft in a memory of cotton candy at the fair sort of way. Palate tells another story, truly lemony and in a current one-dimensional phase. The carricante has gone into slumber, which is unsurprising and so best not to touch any bottles until the Spring of 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Reserved, not reductive but neither open nor gregarious. A smoulder of volcanics and wood aging, just an aromatic wisp of flint and notable verdancy. The greens are also driven by the place and Cavaliere gives in just this way. Low, slow and with a time lapse release of controlled power. Really quite remarkable Etna Bianco from this contrada. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Calderara vineyards are 40-45 years of age and the harvest happens a week later, in the second week of October. Cement and large casks, 60-40, 10-12 months, brought back together and bottled. Saltier than the Bianco because the vineyard is so full of lava stone, a 100-plus year old eruption with brown basaltic stone. Very focused and precise though more power than 2021. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Sul Vulcano 2021

Quite a taut and wound Etna Bianco, not unusual for the vintage and though anything but lean – my this is tight. Mountain white in every respect and one of the finest if also precise Bianci ever produced at Donnafugata. Exemplary for the DOC, speaking to the mineral slats, elements and ways but also reasons for how lava flows have affected what will happen to vines farmed with industrious respect. Frames Etna Bianco in a serious if surely satisfying way. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco DOC Gamma 2021

Gamma is more aromatic than most with its mix of candied and floral but also spicy and so nasturtium or marigold are considered. The transitions are bold if seamless and the next stage is where things really take a turn to excitement. Moving away from the tight reduction and into bold flavours, variegated and layered, of fruit but of course minerals and elements that deduce then decide what an Etna Bianco is all about. Crisp, crunchy, biting and lengthy, all decidedly essential attributes of a rebel Bianco. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Zottorinotto, Balza Delle Poiane 2022

Some reduction from a specific cru and designation, that being Cavanera Balza delle Poiane within the northerly contrada of Zottorinotto. Herbal as well, fresh sprung spring glade of ferns and wild allium, trillium and the local Ginestra. Plenty of substantial fruit and truthfully so much going on. As far as Etna Bianco is concerned this should be considered a big wine, the kind that can be enjoyed by lovers of full-bodied chardonnay. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco DOC Muscamento 2022

Purchased the palmento in 2006, fully restored and what Michaela Luca calls “a very romantic place.” A Bianco called “Muscamento” (due to labelling bureaucracy) from the Contrada “Moscamento” at 650m on the northeast part of L’Etna. Just three hectares and 8,000-9,000 total production with this being the single-vineyard label. A blend, of 60 percent carricante and (40) catarratto. As floral as it gets for Etna Bianco with honeysuckle and ginger root. Lemon and lime flavours, clean, fresh and truly amenable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The work of Barolo’s Davide Rosso who came to L’Etna in 2016. Straightforward Bianco, neither predictive nor oxidative, tight or loose but somewhere comfortably in between. Goldilocks, between hard and soft, fruit and mineral, an equality of both. Solid, unassuming and yet perfectly representative Etna Bianco. Wood spirit and spice is felt on the back end. Rosso may need to make Bianco for 10 years before greatness arrives. His past work with chardonnay in Bourgogne can only serve to speed up the understanding of carricante. Would not put it past him to get there even sooner. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Only Nerina, San Lorenzo and Feudo were made in 2023 due to a challenge from rain, mildew and less fruit availability. No worries about quality however and Nerina is about as full pulp-fleshy and developed as it has ever been. The acids travel up and down the sides of the palate in the ways of striking Etna Bianco and here Russo finds the road back, each and every time. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

New Bianco for Giuseppe Russo, a selection of 100 percent carricante from three hectares within the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard and contrada. Feudo is not San Lorenzo but it is something remarkable in its own right. More botanical and phenolic but also a level of citrus preserve not noted anywhere but Feudo. Crazy level of implosive citric intensity and taut character. The behaviour is so different to San Lorenzo with flavours that mean business in the most impressive way imaginable. Intensity off the charts, concentration so impressive, energy that builds and builds. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

“A wine of mystery,” says Alberto Graci, “very intriguing for me.” Flinty and scrubby at the same time, energy and vibrancy laying in waiting, a buzz behind the curtain and a soil purposed into the 100 percent carricante that Graci’s team and now also we know the wine will want to explode with flavours a year, or more rightly two from now. So tight but you can feel it, the linear nature looking ahead and time will bring about something social form that mystery. Unquestionably one of L’Etna’s finest ’22s. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A mix of all four contradas; Muganazzi, Arcurìa, Feudo di Mezzo and Santo Spirito. A mix of Mediterranean scrub and vibrancy, looking for that balance between and finding it. Really fine precision and salinity, length is outstanding for villages level Bianco. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Fruit is drawn from the steepest of slopes surrounding the pond within an amphitheatre that is an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. Tiny micro-climate within the 15 hectares of the estate, mainly carricante (80 percent) with a smaller portion of cattaratto, neutral and primary when this young, needing time to find its expression. Again the clarity and freshness are proper but the neutrality makes it hard to see where this will go and what it will become. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2022

The 80 percent carricante with (20) cattaratto grows on the steepest of slopes within the estate’s amphitheatre in surround of a natural pond that are all part an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. A small micro-climate inside of 15 hectares for a Bianco fruit forward and when young, so easy to drink. Unsurprising to find this perfectly clean, fresh and direct, a matter of just five months in stainless steel. Perfect for the many and the willing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Sweet aromatic perfumes, candied florals and white peach per se, a preserved lemon edging to limoncello. Lemony flavours, fine, simple and preparative to set the Bianco up for a modicum of representative success. Good and plenty but not quite exciting, complex or wholly substantial. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Serena and Valeria Costanzo – Palmento Costanzo

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

A cuvée of all parcels from different contrade, including the homefront Santo Spirito, along with Cavaliere. On average 90 percent carricante with (10) catarratto. Only raised in stainless steel, persistently fresh and if any region in the world might be compared with it would be Chablis AOC, direct, salty, smart and widely purposed. Last tasted September 2024

Just have to say wow because Bianco di Sei comes equipped with a level of intensity that was not quite expected from 2022. Not so much a volume or an explosion aromatically speaking but an extreme set of eccentricities that crash aboard the palate. Likely needing some rest and down time to integrate because the level of extract here (including volcanic activity) is simply off the charts. Etna incarnate, pointed and exciting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

High level aromatic volume and concentration from Santo Spirito ’22 and we know right away that this wine knows exactly who it is, where it comes from and where it wants to go. Volcanic salts are also present on the nose from a Bianco of great stage presence and such a smart textural weave that gains every bit of the palate’s confidence. The connection is prescient, reaction calming and conclusion poignant. This is how you make and present Contrada-specific Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, lighter brown for Santo Spirito, from the contrada vineyard at 700m on the northern slope that comprises one out of three “islands within the island” of L’Etna. Still just an infant, implosive and insular, wound so tight, yet to explode. Give this another year, just as the first taste had indicated for months prior. Last tasted September 2024

A fine vintage and and even finer Contrada, that being Santo Spirito where carricante (and 10 percent cattarrato) are given every soil, geological and micro-climatic advantage. There is an accumulation of ripeness and stone cool mineral groove from location and acumen that make this move with incremental ability. It will slowly define itself over along period of time that will be fascinating to watch every step of the way. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, darker brown for Cavaliere, from the contrada vineyard at 700m in the southwest “island” of L’Etna. A different expression to that of Santo Spirito, volumetric in terms of aromatics and less austere or rather locked tight. Here more sapid and botanical, less basaltic salinity and fleshier early on. More fruit forward, pulpy stone fruit like, amenability run higher and the Contrada-designate Bianco to drink while waiting for Santo Spirito to mature. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Bianco DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2022

From Contrada Marchesa near Solicchiata at 750m, a property through Pietro Giovanni’s father-in-law with vines around 100 years old, of the passion and at the heart of the contrada. As unique as it gets for Etna Bianco, 100 percent carricante, ripe yet certainly not honeyed and wood a driver with a white cocoa note that alters perception at a certain level. Some savour as well, brushy style, curious and raising the overall levels of interest. The flavours and textures combine for substantial, if also layered appeal. This may turn secondary sooner rather than later but the level of intersecting interest should only increase. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

Archinieri comes at us with that Pietradolce mix of confidence and generosity because well, vineyards and expertise. A Bianco that must be great because the makers demand top quality from field to table and all the markers here are present, defined and accounted for. Ideal reasoning, seasoning and style. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Taccione 2022

A singular Bianco labeled within Contrada Taccione for Planeta’s cantina located in Feudo di Mezzo and when you are the sole (known) contributor you make, transmit and valourize the rules. Pulp, acumen and circumstance establish and disperse layers of lava-fueled feelings, initiate discourse and bring about results to say this is Etna Bianco of balance and mountain reform. Not the acid intensity of some, nor the flowery pot gratuity of others. Nor does it reside indiscriminately or disinterestedly in between – no it makes a great pronouncement of elevation, mountain experience and intention. Exceptional Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Quantico Etna Bianco DOC 2018

A few years have passed but my how this 2018 has hung onto its freshness despite some skin contact involved in the early process. Maturity is recognized in the platinum gold hue, subtle caramelization and next level developing complexities. May not keep for several years more but at nearly six years of age it is special. Last tasted September 2024

Just two years older than the ’20 and a marked difference, especially in aromatics. Much warmer year but the exotica and tropical fruit really stand out in this 2018. Cherry blossom, lime cordial and a litchi or longan effect, almost feeling boozy but the alcohol (at 13 percent) is the same as 2020. That said the palate is much more similar, less advanced and feeling fresher. Lots of fruit here, full of energy with a long lasting impression. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Rupestre Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The private label of Terre Darrigo winemaker Rosario Raciti grown in the Contrada of Pietramarina and vinified in the company’s cantina. Only carricante and an old lava flow location with 14 year-old vines planted by Rosario’s father. A unique saltiness and mineral intensity clearly attributed to the contrada despite the young age of the vines. Lean, direct and pointed, sharp and just the beginning of the story. Only 8,000 bottles in 2023. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Buonora 2023

Only carricante and just has that look of a wine you expect to be extremely cold when it’s really a matter of a strong, sweetly phenolic presence. Herbal, like basil granita and a different sort of salinity owing to the specificity of Tascante’s Pianodario gravelly volcanic sands. Also owing to harvest time after a most challenging vintage which gave smaller, more concentrated berries with high skin to pulp ratios. Sees only stainless steel, for good reason and the effect triples down on this Bianco’s style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2022

Vinified and aged in Slavonian Grandi Botti, “to preserve the verticality and freshness of the carricante” explains Tasca d’Almerita agronomist Michele Brusaferri. Plays hard to get and acts demure inside the halls of its aromatic silence but you know that the elevation and fine basaltic soil are the portents of Tascante’s main Contrada Sciaranuova that will see to conditions for change. Though soft you feel the wood, present with confidence yet the thread of cool, herbal and botanical rins from Buonora into this Bianco. Fruit will soon peek through and announce a scintillant’s arrival, blossoms too, namely orange and then to salty lime later on. Just takes some air, agitation and swirl to coax out the excitement and up into the stratosphere. Turns out to be crunchy and seriously salty Etna Bianco, like flakes of Maldon or Slovenian platinum for what can best be described as living the high seasoned life of Etna Bianco. Structure is there and so this should age quite well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2016

The 2016 carricante takes the ’22 tasted alongside to another extreme. Now a return to a full blown aromatically romanticized effect with honey, orange blossom, sweet concentrated herbs, then into a downy, mature and creamy softness. Curious if well past prime with no good reason to complain about a Bianco conceived during its earlier stages of experimentation and understanding. You can tell the first two to three years would have had no problem convincing of greatness within the style it was made. Tasted September 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The Santo Spirito area has traditionally been devoted to Rosso and so grapes need to be brought in to make the Etna Bianco. Not 100 percent carricante yet the single contrada whites are. Remember that old vineyards would house five to seven percent white grapes and so here 20-30 percent would include minella, cattaratto, inzolia and grecanico. There is a gelid solidity to the texture and structure, inclusive of the white grapes hand-plucked out of the red vineyards. Makes for a complicated yet complex cuvée, not about parochial purity but instead an assemblage that speaks to bio and varietal diversity. There is notable extract and even some tannin involved for a Bianco you would want to drink every single day. With thanks to salinity that does the work from acidity. If only there were more of 2023, but such is the nature of farming in adversarial vintages. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Calderara Sottana 2023

“Such a stunning vineyard that I believe will actually improve the Calderara,” says Marc de Grazia. Where Bianco can help to elevate the Rosso by association and osmosis. A carricante with more volume and depth than the wines from the south and east of L’Etna but we know many will not only appreciate but also prefer the style of those Bianci grown in warmer areas. As such the Calderara Sottana sees barrel fermentation, in 350L tonneaux and 10 hL foudres. Now we are getting into a Bourgogne comparison, Meursault first and foremost though some will consider Premier Cru, Right bank Chablis, Fourneaux coming to mind more than most. In the end all that matters is finding the sweet spot in every vintage to express place, in terms of wood size, time and methodology used. We can be reminded that Dibourdieu is a big influence on de Grazia, for whatever that is worth. “If you don’t have a compass it’s not sailing, it’s what Dibourdieu called vagabondage. You need to have an idea of the answer you’re looking for.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Montalto 2023

Montalto, “high mountain,” a 950m plot on L’Etna’s southern slope. Another Bianco that does not like being fermented in wood and so steel only aids and abets to maintain carricante purity. For the first time a Terre Nere white just feels truly salty, mineral extraction expressed through Bianco, as opposed to elemental sapidity. “You have to go higher as the heat increases,” says Marc de Grazia, “to extract perfumes and find acidity.” There is a savoury honeyed aspect that reminds of chenin blanc and the length is determined by old vines. Silex again which takes a mind to Loire more than Chablis. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2022

Reductive in a most protective, protractive and progressive way because the burst of citrus screamed forth is seriously intensive. Well yes but it would behoove one to think in terms of elements and minerals over more than merely fruit. Wild and frantic even, excitability factor run off the charts and the palate, not to mention spirit seriously awakened. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Rosso DOC d’Aetna 2023

Presumably a mix of of Blandano and Praino, which incidentally seem to be siblings from two different mothers and so the deAetna label is a blend in two-parts. More Praino is would seem, gelid and cool, a lemon-yellow plum granita of an Etna Bianco. Fine and solid enough though quite generalized as a local, eastern side of Etna expression. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

A few years now in bottle and so this 2019 has developed next level style, further character and stage presence. Honeyed and luxe, acids sweetened with a lively if sour edge and then comes that extract that urged the totality from the start. A fine and confident wine with time on its side and a healthy perspective for Etna Bianco as the kind to serve at dinners and tastings all over the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A stone’s throw down the mountain is Lingualossa, of a terroir above 500 and upwards to 600m in a natural amphitheatre taken over by the Bacci family from a bankrupt farm and in disrepair. Restored to a beautifully rustic terraced set of vineyards set between the volcano and the sea. Salty carricante indeed with phenolic grip and yet acidity keeps the drive alive. So little was made because of a hailstorm in the first week of May that took out most of the vines even before rains and Perenospera mildew arrived to attack much of Etna’s northern vineyards. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Theresa Eccher Etna Bianco DOC Alizée 2021

As per the vintage and an estate taking full advantage this is quite ripe and open-knit Etna Bianco, simplified and moving forward into maturity with haste. Comes away with a bit of bitterness and honeyed savour but otherwise drinks well enough. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Tornatore has simply, unequivocally and decidedly defined the genre that is Etna Bianco for world markets at an affordable price. The 2023 vintage was not so easy to do this way because mildew pressure and low yields were the obstacle. And yet like so many the acids are intense to insure true Etna mountain spirit is elevated as it needs be. This does precisely what wants and needs for a $25-30 Bianco. All must partake and become believers in what is possible. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Pietrarizzo is both available and confident, not idiosyncratic like Zottorinotto and also richer of fruit. There is an herbal and botanical way about this cru Bianco with splashes of catarratto bringing seasoning to the carricante. A bit spicy and even humid though the fruit is the thing and the volcanics an accent making for even more spice entertained. Such a solid Contrada based Bianco. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted and September 2024

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

An Etna Bianco on the extreme volcanic side because the aromas and flavours just feel like sucking on a mouthful of basaltic lozenges. Cool, gelid and distinctly mineral on the outside, liquid ethereal and almost mentholated within. Don’t come looking for a burst of fruit, not by citrus, stone nor orchard though there is this green melon note coming late. Nor is this a high acid example, but also not so very botanical. Just bloody volcanic – which speaks to Chiuse Vidalba. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Part of the production is from a vineyard located outside of the allowable (if arbitrarily and self-serving organization of geographic definition) for the DOC regulations. Yet the fruit from these 40 year-old carricante vines are special to Carmelo Vecchio. His is a true to real volcanic life skin-contact Bianco without the slings, constraints and arrows of pedagogical natural wine. Just the methodological facts to capture, elevate and celebrate the purity of grape variety come from where it lives. A well made example is a thing of beauty and in this case, a premise of perfection. Sapidity wins out over salinity and yet your palate may figure to feel more of the latter. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Tasted side by side with the 2022 (and also 2016) but here the extra year on a skin contact carricante solicits the first stage of age development. Just on the nose really, quite honeyed with a Ginestra savoury spice and a vague saffron note considered. More so honeysuckle when you combine the two and so there feels like a connection, re-imaging or re-imagining of chenin blanc. Palate presence lingers and length is befitting of ’22. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Piè Franco Carricante – Terre Darrigo

Etna Bianco Superiore

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2023

Aromatic volume is turned up through the combination of vintage and Superiore designation which both repeats and magnifies the great fleshy chew for the accessorized palate. Some greens here though they are sweet to commit and then induce satisfaction. Also a great basaltic saltiness that causes this Bianco to linger long after you thought it might not and you are extremely grateful for the extension. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Villagrande 2021

Just two years older than the ’23 Superiore (classico) and here the Contrada-specific Etna Bianco maintains freshness while defending the integrity of its municipal steading. This is a reduced volcanic saltiness but even more so it speaks to being a mountain wine in the most credible of ways. Rich and expressive, so finely tart and just so very impressive. Stays with your palate for minutes on end and for that you say brava. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Salvino Benanti – Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Pietramarina 2019

A current release which follows the Benanti rule of waiting four-plus years. Only stainless and already hinting at aromatic volume but also length, with petrol coming around the corner. Kind of in the vein of say riesling but even more so sémillon and more Hunter Valley than Bordeaux in that regard. Acidity is obviously lower and phenolics broader – but you get the drift. Will gain curiosity, if at the expense of freshness but that feels like the Superiore point. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2022

Important if also essential mountain label for Calcagno in Superiore clothing and ’22 shines brightly, even if this is not the summit of summits as far as vintage is concerned. No conceding or submissive behaviour mind you and instead great spirit, energy and vitality. Crisp bites of orchard fruit doused under lemon-lime citrus for real spark. A scintillant Etna Bianco with some fine chiseling and structured for aging. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Kudos 2021

Kudos is far more botanical than that of Gamma, of green herbs and some herbaceous meanderings. More tonic and fine bitters though truthfully lemon in so many ways with some pith and it tastes like roasted Greek lemon potatoes. A second bottle seems to ramp up the intensity though things stay relatively the same. Superiore is a different animal and it feels like Curtaz has gone a bit more pied du cuve natural in the approach. Surely not an accidental wine and the jury stays out, not hung, but not making a final decision. Will do so after tasting another bottle, preferably sooner rather than later. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Rocca d’Alba 2022

First kick at the Fischetti can and it must be said where have these wines been in this life? In others’ glasses and now here for a look at possible grandezza. Big attempt at extraction, squeezing every bit of 100 percent carricante juice which means tomato leaf and water, but also acetic belief. Old wood is very present and leads the feels for a rustic Bianco that may not exactly find precision, nor finesse neither, but its character is built from soil, soil, soil. The earth is all in and it translates with the aforementioned acetic tang. Just 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted twice, September 2024

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Varietal carricante at 800m fermented in steel, put to barrel and then one year in bottle. So much corporeal flesh on the body of a seriously developed Bianco. Has come into a fine place but my goodness so much texture, citrus and length. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2023

Youthful is the understatement and Volpare the name, so say it loud. This is indeed singular Etna Bianco, as they should be but some are in a league of their own, as Mugeri’s eastern wines clearly are. The estate has taken it to the next level with an ascension of elevated mountain fortuity but also depth determined by terroir which can only be transmitted when agriculture abides. Abides because the maker makes it happen and Volpare delivers generously while also with precision and finesse. Leave this for 18 months or more to settle the relationship between rocks and acidity. After tasting Frontebosco and also Frontemare you realize the latter is the true catalyst to propel this cuvée selection. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023

Versante est which separates Mugeri from not just the north but also the south and the future will surely look to this area for greatness. Not only Volpare contrada but a section within, here called Frontebosco, as in facing or in front off the forest and so the herbals here within are assumed to be elected by the nearby woods. Makes for freshness but also a fruit fleshiness that the more general Volpare does not show. A full, substantial and impressive Etna Bianco that might just appeal to everyone. Superiore indeed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino Frontemare 2023

Frontemare, “facing the sea,”as opposed to Frontebosco, “facing the wood.” As such this would be east facing from Etna’s east sector and so the block with the view creates a unicorn of an Etna Bianco as fascinating as it seemingly gets. The most crisp, crunchy, fresh and intense of Mugeri’s whites, citrus squeezed throughout and long as the zig-zagging wind of a single road down to Catania and into the sea. Just wow, with layers upon layers to unreel, unfurl and unroll for a long aging period ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Salice 2023

Only carricante from the the town of Milo, five year-old vines in the place where more rain falls and reds can not really be made. No more than 1000 hectares of vineyard farmed by 20 producers recently and collectively coming into its own. Wines now made by high profile estates including Barone di Villagrande, Benanti and Marc de Grazia. Soils are unique, having come from the collapse odf the side of the volcano’s east side. Deep, fractured and then also shallow soils so compact it’s hard for roots to penetrate. Less humid as a result and the best for ripening carricante. Exposure is key because the sun disappears behind the mountain earlier than most, though says de Grazia, “650-750m is the sweet spot. Adding “a challenge but not a suicide.” Extremely steep, two years to rebuild the terraces and here is the result. Imagine the views of the Ionian Sea with a glass, wildflowers everywhere and a sapidity so different to the gifts of the northern slope. Salice is the willow and that weeping only adds to the demure, but in a botanical, mellow and properly astringent way. Just like silex, but volcanic from a wine with no wood in play. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Il Musmeci Bianco 2021

Il Muscemi Bianco is another matter altogether because of two aspects. More taut reserve instigated by reductively protected ability plus an aromatic accountability that screams “mountain wine!” Scintillant behaviour, a bit eccentric mind you but how one could not be amused if clearly enthralled with the intensity. Once again we speak of volcanics and mysterious elements with fruit out of the conversation because it was picked early and with acidity in total mind, but in the end the lava matters most. Needs years to settle in, especially because of the need to assimilate its wood. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino 2022

Eastern slope on Etna, in the town of Milo where only here the Etna Bianco can be labeled with the addendum “Superiore.” From young five year-old carricante vines grown on Alberello at 650m by Fabio Stantino and his family where the conditions are more humid, namely because of the closer proximity to the sea. Cool, gelid and stylish. The kind of Etna Bianco with that mineral, gemstone quality while also one of the more yellow-fleshed fruit pulpy examples juiced by Sicilian orange. Gets white pepper and mango powder exotic at the humid finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Etna Rosso

Alice Bonaccorsi Etna Rosso DOC Valcerasa Rosso 2019

Truly ripe cherry, maturing and for Bonaccorsi’s Rosso surely well into the drinking zone. Wealth of cloying oak, resins and overripe behaviour mean that zone should already be behind us. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Middle ground traveled and promise delivered for the large Feudo di Mezzo as Contrada sizes come, with fruit able to defend itself against generous wood though all parts launch a collective attack on the senses and palate. Big Rosso for Etna, strong boned and willed with the intention to impress. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2020

Big barrel feel on Guardiola from Alta Mora and some fruit maturity to say the twain is yet to be abridged. As high toned as Rosso will come, red fruit swells and a dusty volatility that reminds of Rioja. Just feels akin to aging in American wood. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosso DOC Venturo 2022

Only 700 bottles were made of Alessandro Serrugheti’s Venturo, which transliterates to “next” and generationally speaking that is exactly what he and wife Loredona are to L’Etna. Their corner of Rovitello is rich in volcanic ingredients, of potassium, iron, and magnesium in the lava flow soils of their old (and qualifiedly historic) nerello mascalese vineyard. Alessandro dates them back 60 years and admits there to be a few cappuccio plants mixed in for one of his first attempts at Rosso that is simply grippy, liquid chalky, textural, structured and brimming with dark fruit. Ages 10 months in tonneaux. It’s basically a profound basaltic matter of this place within the greater volcanic place. Greatness is coming. Coming up next. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Rosso DOC Petralava 2019

Floral with a pretty perfume of fruit to join along and the effect is a fête for the olfactory senses. Neither lithe nor delicate in terms of flavour profile and punch yet the substantial and layered effect is something notable. Just a smidgen overdressed and no, subtlety is not the middle name but overall there are fine and appreciable aspects if this Rosso to get behind. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC San Nicolo’ 2022

San Nicolo’ steps up more than a tier in Etna Rosso terms as compared to Outis because its freshness and fragrance are that much more intense. This smells like Etna should, with southeastern slope warmth behind its ripeness and acidity acting as the driver for that freshness. Still it presents a challenge to sort through and figure out the how, what and why. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC Outis 2017

Notable wood on the nose, spiced and like the Bianco also savoury in an herbal-botanical way. Suits the fruit though the aromas lower, deepen into baritone and struggle to rise up with ease. The barrel is very involved with the flavours and somewhat unrelenting though one should not question the substance of this Rosso. Then again it’s already five to six years of age and so maturity will now beget declension. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Truly pretty Rosso perfume yet the palate’s hard shell is candied and a bit cloying. The barrel is used in a symptomatic way, driving the fruit to places it may not have wished to go. The combination of that and volatility not in check leads this down and artificial and medicinal path, as a result. The ’21 Bianco Superiore is glorious but the Rosso is a miss. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Ilice 2020

Monte Illice 2022 is in better steading than the Rosso 2021 because its volatile compounds lay low and do much less to distract from the prize. Still the use of wood is heavy and so a resinous but also emulsified feeling is ascertained. Not quite soy but certainly lactic and creamy. A much better wine however and one that will age well over a five-plus year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Serra Della Contessa Alberello Centenario 2018

Benanti Viticoltori was founded in 1988, one of the pioneers on L’Etna. Two Piedmontese oenologists, Gian Domenico Negro and Marco Monchiero, along with Prof. Rocco Di Stefano of the Experimental Institute for Oenology in Asti and Prof. Jean Siegrist of the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique of Beaune combined to exert profound influence on Giuseppe Benanti and his wines. Oenological consultancy has molded and developed Benanti’s wines, from Salvo Foti to Enzo Calli, now with Benanti for 25 years. Serra Della Contessa is a field blend of the two nerello out of a 100-plus year-old bush vine vineyard (documents say 1910s), own grafted and original, bit of a unicorn for Benanti and a pioneer, just like Giuseppe Benanti. Not labeled as pre-phylloxera because “it’s difficult to prove,” but surely from resistant vines. The same vineyard (Monte Serra) also makes for a Contrada wine from the younger vines. Large barrels for two years, one in tank and then finally two in bottle, not unlike a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. There is a chalkiness and serious structure here but the Grandi Botti do little to distract, thicken or overarch any semblance of density to this blend. Serra della Contessa dates back to the countess that owned the state in 1472. Cleary one of not only L’Etna’s but all of Sicily’s most important structured and age-worthy red wines. Would love to see this agin in 2033. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Rovitello Alberello Centenario 2018

From North Etna, as opposed to the sister Serra della Contessa label that comes from the home-front vineyard on the mountain’s southeast slope. Picked two weeks later from a cooler location and still the same concept, that being a field blend of nerello mascalese and cappuccio, planted in the 1920s and yes it’s possible there are other varieties mingling in the ancient material of these bush vines. Essentially pre-phylloxera and here Rovitello is softer and cooler, almost gelid and less warmth meets weight, though Monte Serra is not what you would call a wine of density. The acids, harmony and understatement are really fine but to be honest the Contessa is showing better and with more impressive structure today. And yet Rovitello is a magnificent red blend from old DNA in its own-right. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2022

From L’Etna’s southeastern sector on the mountain’s semi-circle and one of fine if also light glycerol texture. Truly pretty and delicate for Rosso, the kind we tell people about in the way we often describe pinot noir from the Côtes de Beaune. This is indeed as closely resembling that kind of varietal-appellation relationship as any on this volcanic mountain. Really fine, precise and softening though structure is not a problem. The feels are of older lava flows and how they effect nerello mascalese. Obviously not pinot noir. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Calderara Sottana 2022

Benanti is not just a southeastern Etna specialist but an estate that wrote the book on the making of fine, precise, finessed and structured wines from that sector aboard the mountain. There is more power (albeit restrained) from northern slope Calderara Sottana and a sense of rich chalky liquidity that speaks to the age of lava flows and how vines are raised on older volcanic soils. Also the 700m of elevation and a place that works best with nerello mascalese, especially with north-facing plantings. The transmission is purposed, trenchant and near formidable. More chewy texture here and more favourably or gainfully nerello mascalese but when you think of it alongside Monte Serra than the options laid out are yours to choose. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Franco and Giusi Calcagno

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2021

Ah such an intoxicant of Calderara perfume coaxed and on exhibit just the way we would hope it should. Mind you there is some wood to deal with though high standard used will become quality worth resolved. More liquid chalky an Etna Rosso than many but again the execution will beget harmony because the wine is already expressive and frankly distinguished right there. Give this promising 2021 another 18 months and its canto will warble harmonic, pure and long. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Solo nerello mascalese, made with the grapes from all three Contradas, 10 months in steel, followed by six months in bottle. Dictionary entry though it’s just the first vintage of this specific Rosso without Cappuccio. These are nerello plants grafted onto the old cappuccio and to be honest there is more purity and focus this way. Spicier, in a way and more energy. Will take a few vintages to find its solo artist stride. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Only nerello mascalese from 35 year-old vines, big barrel for 14 months. Even though Feudo di Mezzo is the largest Etna Nord contrada there is such consistency and a thread of wine effect that runs through the 20-plus producers. Cottanerà heeds and abides by the vineyard to produce a balanced FdM worthy of the name. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Nerello Mascalese

Plants are 85 years of age on four hectares but this wine is a selection from three tonnes of grapes to make only 1,800-2,000 bottles. Riserva, so it remained in cask for two years plus two more in bottle. Depth, breadth, spices and richness, the most full bodied and textural Rosso, tannins sweet and long-chained with time still needed to resolve all that is here. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Marchesa 2020

Marchesa 2020 seems to tell a contrada story in a most positive light with its effusive, fresh and yet also concentrated way. A specific style to be sure and a layered one but those layers are closely knit with their weave of ultra specific fibre. There is some reduction which is not a surprise and then some good old-fashioned structure to see this age quite admirably. A different charm and a good one from this well made Rosso. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Purgatorio 2020

Bold and trenchant Etna Rosso from the one and only legend that is Federico Curtaz and one to take great time getting to know. Ripe to be sure but also acids in stride with fruit influenced by Etna’s newer (relatively speaking) northern lava flows providing the freshness and finesse. There are some herbaceous moments that put this in a savoury place and in the end the diversity and complexity renders this a potent while oh so intriguing iteration of Etna Rosso. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Pukkaria 2020

Consistency and a thread of similarity runs from Purgatorio through Pukkaria but the latter is not the bold expression that is the former. Sweeter perfume, more glycerol texture and emulsified acidity make this closer to the heart and without the same level of grip by structure. Still the herbal-herbaceous feels are there and some reduction to hold a part of the wine back. Give it a year and the ties that bind will loosen to free this wine of brine and tang. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Pretty much what they call Classico as far as Etna Rosso is concerned with a nerello mascalese of concentration yet delicate and shiny enough to speak generally if abidingly for an appellation. Wood is not nothing and will need some time to melt in but this is clearly a Rosso for Rosso sake, raised properly and equipped to live comfortably. A five year example that could be poured for anyone to explain the combination of style, varietal and place. Feels just a bit natural with faint Brettanomyces noted in the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC Rosso Di Mezzo 2022

A sturdy and well wooded Rosso from Feudo di Mezzo labeled as Rosso di Mezzo because why not though the nomenclature could suggest a second wine to some. Like Rosso di Montalcino or even lesser, Rosso di Toscana. We know the intent but when you look at some other Italian denominations this becomes somewhat perplexing. In any case this travels down the middle of the Mezzo road (wink, wink) to deliver a Rosso of medium body, acidity, structure and finish. On par with Graziani’s Rosso DOC, both good wines though with little to distinguish between the two. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Gran Conte 2014

An alberello-trained, pre-phylloxera nerello mascalese of century vines. A survivalist, having been through at least one world war. A mature, oxidative and fully resolved Rosso in secondary character with no going back. Gifts that old Amarone feel without the jam or density, but age has put this in a known time frame for they who fully appreciate old wines. Freshness is not part of the package. This ’14 is the current release and once again 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Frank Cornelissen Etna Rosso DOC Munjebel 2021

As per the explanation of the erudite gentleman from Houston (by way of San Diego) the meaning of Munjebel informs us to be a “dialectal toponym for Mt. Etna and by the way akin to the Sicilian Muncibeddu or the Italian Mongibello, meaning monte bello or beautiful mountain.” And so it truly is in Etna Rosso form, of a purity and clarity that bemuses but also pleases us so. Chewy Rosso with that natural settling on the palate like a savoury salve slowly dissolving without dissipating or disappearing from consciousness. Stays with our thoughts and feelings for a good long time. Fine 2021, as expected and confirmed without a single moment of having conformed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Quite the bright and ultra fresh nerello mascalese number with what feels like fruit taken from young and impressionable vines, and as of yet to deliver full out structure. Easy access, fresh and free drinking, no big questions posed and a Rosso that simply drinks really well. The length and consistent presence of flavours and textures speak to the maker’s affinity with mutually relatable red varieties, in this case nerello’s spiritual and physiological connection to nebbiolo. Then again Davide Rosso’s work with both Domaine Jean Grivot and Domaine Denis Mortet have no doubt influenced and introduced the treatment of pinot noir towards his work with mascalese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

A very warm and dry vintage making for a taut, chalky and savoury nerello mascalese (with 10 percent cappuccino). This next ‘a Rina takes off where 2021 left off and only Feudo is as consistent an Etna Rosso as this. Chalky red cherry, a leathery aspect and drying tannins that speak about 2022 in both toasty and positive ways. Crisp ’22, of bay and liquorice, salty volcanics and good length, though not in the league of Feudo and San Lorenzo. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

The gifts of San Lorenzo are of a slow release ilk the other cru and vineyards of Girolamo Russo are not, but this from 2022 is so full of riches it brings early joy. A great pleasure to have a glass even now with gregarious perfume and readied flavours, of red berries, liquid chalky to candied palate swaths and immediacy from this bottle of wine. San Lorenzo shows off the most glyercol and silken texture – it’s almost candied but of course it’s not. Spicy on the back side, sneakily structured and all the while with a glass we’re feeling fine. Can only improve and integrate with a couple of years time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

From the highest section in the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard, bush vines, very old. Delivers ultra light and conversely powerful di Mezzo freshness, but from this elevation at a much higher rate and with an extension of vibrancy plus energy. More verticality and sweetness of nerello fruit like almost no other. Resides in a state of grace upon the palate and though it hovers just a millimetre above, there still feels like the fruit, acidity and finest tannin are collectively making full contact. Remarkable. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive, so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

The home vineyard, great vintage and that should not be questioned because frankly it simply can’t be denied. If nothing else the intensity of purpose comes through from the start. More depth and crunch, further concentration and breadth, still austere and working through its tasks, machinations and intentions. Big wine from 2021. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

Longer maceration because these are stems that ripen better than anywhere else and so Alberto Graci tastes and decides how long to go. Usually 60 days and 2019 was right around that number. You can feel them, mostly though not 100 percent ripe and yet that savoury-verdant note works so well to create a spice mix and seasoning that extends the breadth of the fruit. Do not come here for heavy concentration or weight because there is restraint but also expect some austerity. Really needs time and will eventually settle into it’s technicolor skin. A compact wine that will deliver a slow release of energy. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Rosso DOC 2021

A blend of 80 percent nerello mascalese with (20) nerello cappuccio, raised in 500L cask. Ascends with warm grape must character, fresh fig and tree pod fruit. On the warmer and darker side for Etna Rosso, already into some maturity with an almost Ripasso-like feel on the palate. Less typicity for Etna Rosso without a real sense of place. Either the grapes need to be picked (even) earlier or the winemaking will need to scale back and press as gentle as possible. Times have changed. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Spice and resins on the aromatics, wood-derived and unresolved. Earthiness, of fresh laid sod and a chalky undercut of stone. A bit rustic, as they say. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

Sebastiano Vinci – Mecori

Mecori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Muganazzi Duo 2022

They are Serena & Sebastiano, Mecori’s “Duo,” reiterated from the special Muganazzi Contrada and vines planted in 1927 as a reductive one, protected and insular, unresolved and therefore undefined. Air is a friend of this nerello mascalese from one (soon to be two and a half) hectares and agitation an even more important accomplice to release what charm lays low and behind. There is real richness and layering beneath the shell which more than accidentally and incidentally defines the contrada and what it can achieve. Spicy and spiced, chalky, massively tannic and the kind of structure few Etna Rosso are wont to hold. A big wine so far away from ready, currently grippy and austere, tension in charge and time the operative to effect any kind of significant change. Average production is 4,000 bottles, soon to reach approximately 10. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Giulia Monteleone

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Monteleone 2022

Fine perfumes and just as promising spirit turn upwards with even further generosity from an Etna Rosso of fruit as pure as any. A wine of harmony and like a well-written song sung with grace. Not the most complex or complicated Rosso but who would not bask in the glow of a glass any place and any time. Clarity and purity are what matters for Etna Rosso with its feet on the ground. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Rumex 2022

Rumex, a.k.a. Dock or Sorrel, a perennial culinary herb. Also Rumex, Giulia Monteleone’s sister Rosso to Qubba, of 100 percent nerello mascalese grown at 680m in the volcanic sand and gravels of Contrada Pontale Palino. The vineyard is a natural “clos” encircled by Sciara (mounds of magmatic scoriae formed along lava flows). Rumex is not Qubba what with its brighter entry but also high tonality and elevated acidity. This also means volatility, in check and important for the style and effect of this Rosso. While Qubba is a Rosso for which to peer through ornate windows, Rumex offers a converse approach with much to chew and mull upon, many facets to look deeper into, parts to unravel and feelings to unlock. Must wait two more years before more answers are provided. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Qubba 2021

Perhaps the most famous Islamic architectural example of a Qubba is the Green Dome in Medina, a cupola-shaped shrine built in 1837. In a way Monteleone’s Qubba feels like the representation of Giulia Monteleone’s short history aboard Versante Nord, a journey that began in 2017 and perhaps this Rosso’s extra year in bottle has contributed to the story. A nerello mascalese from a fine vintage that has come to a very great place. There is charm but even more so there is depth to this ’21. A structured wine just about arrived though not quite ready to open its doors and yet we feel like we are peering through the stained glass window of Jerusalem’s Qubba al-Sakhra. Or more realistically the nerello’s aperture but this is clearly coming from fine northern Etna terroir that ripens fruit, maintains acidity and give generously of its vines. Fully developed flavours, plenty of grip and many years are left to give. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2021

Nero di Sei 2021 comes quicker to the point with near-immediate gratification because of vintage and also by way of the team allowig and even encouaging this to happen. Or abided more like it, with red berry fruit aromas that nerello mascalese can gift when the conditions are right. This is not to say that 2021 will fade into early light because it is in fact equipped with volume, concentration and backbone. A truly exceptional vintage that will appeal to all. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

A nerello mascalese that sees 24 months in the troncone wooden vats from a vintage with its specific challenges but there is volume and depth. A Rosso that draws from all the available plots farmed by Palmento Costanzo. Spice and that feeling you get when you bite into dried fruit tree pods like bokser or carob. The finish is Etna balsamico, a mix of wild fennel, oregano and mint, but also some other dusty gariga. Last tasted September 2024

Spicy and floral, aromatically crisp and taut, wood a factor with plenty of seasoning. A bit sappy and edging into tang with flavours quite sharp and also dense but time will settle the score for all parts involved. A big and inky version of Nero di Sei and one to really sink your teeth into. Wait two years to do so. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2020

Always promising and spirited Rosso from the combination of producer and place which take full advantage of both its elevation and particular lava flow to effect beauty and age-ability. A swirl of glycerol comes away from sweet perfume and leads toward real time austerity to indicate not only a wine of substance but also one of aging probability. The concentration is buoyed by acidity and tannin in the ways of top shelf Etna Rosso. Fine vintage and work from the Palmento Costanzo team. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2019

Three further months in and no further changes or gains but just the status quo of primary fruit and a Rosso come from vineyard health with thanks to organics and this 1879 eruption derived volcanic terroir. Last tasted September 2024

Evolving nicely, now nearly ready to go, fruit still fresh enough and structure beginning to subside. A full bodied Etna Rosso from Santo Spirito in delivery of what the contrada and the vintage held in hand. Tasted May 2024

A vintage out of which the pre-phylloxera was produced from the contrada so just imagine the possibilities as they come from this all in for the vintage nerello mascalese. Feels like an extended maceration because the glycerol and unctuous textural pool are both at the crest of Etna Rosso heights. Oranges and cherries but more than anything old vines spirit and what just happened from out of these volcanic sands carried through to century and a half vines is something wholly and unequivocally other. Hints at balsamic reduction but the tannins and also acids are so fresh and so years is what it will take to take this anywhere new. The finest chalkiness imitates the soil and puts this in a league with some of Italy’s most important red wines. Up to you too decide which they are or don’t bother at all. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2020

Same grapes, different style of vinification from the pre-phylloxera section of the vineyard, therefore from material grown on the oldest vines. The extended skin contact is followed by a great and instructive polymerization of the phenolic compounds and when the skins sink down in the troncone the wine is racked and sent on its way into Stockinger Foudres. The tannin quality from the grapes coming off of old Santo Spirito vines are a velvet crush of plush fortified by exquisite volume. The wine moves fluidly and in harmony from start to finish, pausing only to see if you are paying full attention, then continuing to command attention seemingly without trying at all. Rosso this fine is deserving of its own place and time. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2020

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (Contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata with a look at varietal character in the vein of nebbiolo and sangiovese but the aging here is one third each steel, tonneaux and amphora. There is some depth to its hue but also proper Etnese transparency and being 2020 there is a sense of maturity on the nose. Amphora will add such an element, not to say the Rosso is passing over into secondary character but it is made with a specific style. Wood spice and amphora texture make this unique, again because Pietro di Giovanni is a winemaker free to choose his whimsy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2019

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata and 2019 show no further maturity as compared to 2020. Speaks not only to vintage but Pietro di Giovanni’s abiding by his contrada and climate. The vineyard is small (1.5 hectare) and the yields extremely low (4 tonnes per hectare). There is surely a style and an honesty here though with time these wines should become exceptional when they are designed with a just bit more restraint. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Passopisciaro Etna Rosso DOC Passorosso 2022

Properly reductive, a redacted quality to hold back the tears and also the years. Concentration and aura are the cards held up by the artistic austerity held out with the final hand yet to play because bets are still arriving on the table. My goodness what structure and intensity so please, stay focused and patient because many years are needed to settle the score. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC 2020

Fine perfume, handsome and inviting to set this up as a muscular yet taut and lean Rosso. Reductive and herbaceous, such a savoury and earthy example of a place within a place. Tannins are somewhat austere and gritty but they should settle and resolve. Palate presence does not follow a direct line from aromas but again, time will bring them closer and eventually together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

The 2020 nerello mascalese from Contrada Santo Spirito is a meaty and gamy bruiser, sanguine and yet lifted with some fine volatility to nose. The right amount because the aromatic volume, palate depth and tannic freight are all equal partners working towards a common goal. That would be a full-bodied Etna Rosso with the stuffing and planning to age very well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May and September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

A unicorn Etna Rosso and here from 2019 there has been some development though the wine is still ways away from full integration. Talking formidable structure, inclusive of tannins of a tight and variegated grain, running crosswise and painless because they usher fruit and urge acidity to always be a part of the fray. A total weave of Rosso sentiment, bringing emotion and pleasure without fail, to exult a vineyard as special as any in the world. One only need to stand over it to understand its power, insistence on restraint and the keys to unlock potential. Will turn heads and remain in light for a good long time. “Facts are nothing on the face of things. “Still waiting, still waiting, still waiting, still waiting.” Drink 2026-2037. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Not a contrada specific Etna Rosso but more than 70 percent comes from Feudo di Mezzo in Passopiciaro. As juicy and glycol notable Rosso as there has ever been and silken would best describe the quality felt aboard the more than pleased and nurtured palate. Another wine that improves each vintage under the guidance of Patricia Tòth, in part because her favourite dogs hang around that winery next to the vineyard. Also because her experience and abilities have come to a most profound place. Love the spice masala on the finish. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Quantico Etna Rosso DOC 2018

“Tough vintage,” admits Giovanni Raiti, with rain at harvest in October and lots of it. Selection was essential, careful maceration and pressing as well. What has resulted is a glycerol glide through texture incarnate with a fab silken palate holding court and more concentrated strength than thought possible. A wine to nose quickly and move forward to linger on that mouthfeel. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Rupestre

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2022

The name Rupestre refers to the 3,000 year-old Palmento found on the estate’s site in Contrada Pietramarina and the word essentially means “ancient.” Rosario Raciti worked in Portugal, Spain, New Zealand, Australia, Tuscany and Puglia before returning to the family farm in Castiglione di Sicilia. The style is so very much Rosario’s, reductive and closed, yet from Contrada Pietramarina the glycerol, silky organza texture and length are what make the case for potential greatness out of such a wine. Again vine age is less than 20 and so the best days are still to come. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2021

This just the third vintage for Rosario Raciti’s Etna Rosso from Contrada Pietramarina in in Castiglione di Sicilia. A perfumed nerello mascalese, unadorned and pure with glycerol marking the mouthfeel. Sweet and savoury spices and just a lovely natural swirl to not just the fruit but the whole composition. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2020

Lighter of body but not aroma as it now enters with the volume turned up, a feeling of idiosyncrasy and high-level curiosity. Wild and exotic spicing owing to a 17th century lava flow now in a state of degradation to make certain the nerello mascalese growing in its sands are the recipient of its mineral profile. Last tasted September 2024

High-toned, spirited and transparent nerello mascalese from Tasca’s L’Etna Tascante out of Contrada Pianodario. Red berry shine, acids excited and fruit a willing participant. Tarragon and Basil herbal, so very basaltic stony and truly a wine of place. Crunchy and ever so slightly resinous with balsamico mixing into the sweetness of fruit and acidity. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2020

Old Sciaranuova vines are the impetus for concentration and experience in this soil-driven contrada specific Rosso for Alberto Tasca’s Tascante of L’Etna. A wholesome, fulsome and fully formed Rosso with the verity of a nerello mascalese-ness here that delivers the entirety of mountain experience with earthy, austere and drying tannins sure to elevate the long term goal and gain. Big Rosso but one of medium body that sets its heights and peaks to points achievable and five years forward will see real things indeed. Bravo to the team for getting this estate and this wine to where it needs to be. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia – Tasca d’Almerita Tascante

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2012

The inaugural vintage for the Tasca family’s Etna project and a more intense result because of initial experimentation with longer macerations. A very promising and in retrospect top quality but also age-worthy vintage, with lingering freshness battling against developing cherry stone bitters. As for overall maturity the ’12 has hung in admirably though wood and the pressed style have added up to this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Rampante 2020

Rampante is the biggest and broadest of the three Contrada Tascante, less ethereal and with more gainful force but it does so with impressive pronouncement. A comparative study however and still thus Rosso is transparent like its brethren. The fullness is a matter of contrada soil and subsequent style. Really quite unique for Etna Rosso, glycerol and silken texture in delivery of mouthfeel that few others will gift. Rampante yes but also Tascante, a way of raising and looking at nerello mascalese fruit with an eye to expression and fineness of tannin. There is some grippy austerity in the last part of this Rosso but one can’t help but feel the promise in its ways. Should age beautifully for 10 years easy. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 20° Anniversario 2022

A single contrada Rosso from Terre Nere from the young vines within Calderara Sottana, to celebrate Marc de Grazia’s 20 years of delivering nerello mascalese from his Etna estate. “The young vines have a vigour and an enthusiasm,” he says. “Bless them.” A blend of these precocious parcels and a cuvée that he surely feels is representative of what has been accomplished thus far, without diverting too far way from what has already been done. Their cumulative hue is always lighter and brighter than the rest of the wines. A fine design and effort that stays true to purity and finesse. Fine wine indeed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted (twice), September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Aged 18 months instead of the usual 12, which the reds will almost always receive going forward. “The son of our vineyards and also neighbours that follow our protocol,” explains Marc de Grazia, “or those who are so good in their’s they don’t need to follow our protocol.” Fine introductory lesson in Etna Rosso now in session. Not so much a dictionary entry but more like the instructor itself to test our mettle and knowledge, to see if we are paying attention and gaining what we need to now and feel. Bright red fruit, some grip and structure with tannins that dry with preferable, positive and proper distinction. A wine that will see the single contrada wines of Terre Nere move from strength to strength. “A watershed vintage” says de Grazia. “The finest (non single contrada) Rosso we’ve ever made and will improve with age.” Last tasted September 2024

The “Villages” Rosso, blending youngest vines fruit from the various 50-plus parcels comprising half of the total production, including some cappuccio. There could be some montellado and other smallest quantities of red grape varieties involved. Interesting in that this effects a richer and naturally sweeter character than most Contrada or Cru wines. So getable and crushable, also a dictionary entry and teaching moment for what it means to be and taste like Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

Always the first to be harvested, almost certainly on October the 4th, give or take a few days of course. “Begins with harmony when young,” tells Marc de Grazia, “and born perfect.” Not entirely true and yet also not disengenous to say that because it will age extremely well. Yes 2022 is pretty, immediately gratifying and seductively perfumed already. Underneath are layers of feudal structure that may lay low below, unseen and unspoken, but they are there. The nerello mascalese equivalent of a hierarchical social structure characterized by a small ruling set of tannin over fruit peasantry working in exchange for protection. Maybe half the grip as compared to the other single contrada Etna Rosso but do not sleep on this subjugating power. Needs two year to initiate its integrations. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Moganazzi 2022

Moganazzi is a bit further east and slightly higher in elevation as compared with Feudo di Mezzo. All terraced, 70 year-old vines at 650-700m. Three parcels combining for one vineyard on the same hill. Marc de Grazia purchased them one at a time and he sees this wine in the vein of say Pommard or Nuit-Saint-Georges. In other words grip that needs two years to “mellow and obtain its luminosity.” True spirit of Etna Rosso’s grace and charm with as lithe and bright nerello mascalese as ever there could be. Fragrance and kick. Moganazzi is all that and secretly austere within the construct of its fine demure. A Rosso that makes you think but even more its makes you feel. Terrific emotion, control, concentration and expressiveness. Amazing wine. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted twice, September 2024

With Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2022

Marc de Grazia considers Feudo di Mezzo and Moganazzi to be Premier Cru and while some producers feel that Guardiola is Grand Cru, he begs to differ. “Somewhere between the two,” he says. On the right hill and yet not quite there, maybe like the split opinion on Monte de Tonerre. Elevation up in the 900s transmits up as aromatic heights, expanse of perfume and yet also this sense of maturity. “A soprano of Rosso, a separation of crus with identity that implies discretion.” Refinement but also tannins that are compact, austere and like the bouquet, irreplaceable, in other words, not replicable. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

From 70,000 year-old soils which makes a connection with other Rosso raised on the same terroir, like Calderara Sottana. A place that consistently provides quality for fine wines, from Premier to Grand Cru. This is the oration from Marc de Grazia who repeatedly uses Bourgogne as the reference point. “San Lorenzo of all the wines is the one that requires more patience,” says de Grazia. “To reveal its glory.” There is an aroma that reminds of Guardiola as well, a mix of restrained bursts and maturity which tells us the wine will be more expressive after a bottle is open for 24 hours. Youthful is the understatement. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Dagala Di Bocca d’Orzo 2022

The tiny vineyard that survived the 1981 lava flow, a parcel that only produces a maximum of 1,800 bottles with a connection to San Lorenzo on the other side of the 100m wide lava swath. An old vines Monopole block dating back a century always made and the one that drinks with immediate distinction, maturity and acumen. Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo also deals in the sneakiest of tannins, more structure than you would surely think and that sort of Etna Rosso that arrives somewhere fast but stays comfortably in the same state for a dozen years. All that said it’s precision and beauty allow us to enjoy its charms straight away. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

From the area of Castiglione at 680m with 100 percent nerello mascalese. Aging in grandi botti for two years and then 10 months in bottle before release. A richness of style, liquorice and dried tree pod fruit, the wood very much in play and acidity less intense than many. A liquid chalky presence on the palate, still needing another year to resolve. Chewy example, confident and a slow delay of fruit, which is never really all that fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Big French tonneaux, second passage and older for eight months. No recipe but that is this vintage, not as powerful as 2022 and Sofia sees it like 2016, but perhaps a different kind of balance, though not as ideal as 2016. The restrained power of the volcano runs throughout and you really feel it. Remarkable Etna Rosso in balance and of a grace that speaks to all there can be. What these wines are want to express and how they carry themselves, non-plussed, confident and free. The ripeness factor at the top of what is normal and beautiful without excess or greed. Sweetness of acidity and form-fitting structure but neither curves nor angles are exaggerated, nor drawn with any concentric circles or sharp lines. The wine flows and reaches the limits of what is right and proper. Just that much and no more. And we say thank you. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre-Phylloxera 2017

From Sofia Ponzini in the area of Passopisciaro and her cru vineyard called Vico. Own-rooted, pre-phylloxera vines, more than 100 years old, nerello mascalese and also cappuccio. A reminder that 2017 was cooler than most of Italy, especially the centre and north, but still generally sunny and warm on Sicily, including aboard L’Etna. Just now beginning to open and emit its magnificent perfumes, followed by a textural weave of vinous fabrics and finally the much expected, energizing and aligning archetypal volcanic saltiness. Drink 2024-2030. T asted May and September 2024

Tenute Nicosia Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte San Nicolò Biologico 2020

A 2020 and so a few years in though the Monte San Nicolò is a bit quiet – somewhat aromatically subdued. Needs some coaxing to see and feel its joy, but fruit nor florals are what drive or cause the beats of the heart. In part because it’s somewhat reductive, of pencil shavings and notable botanicals, like an artiginale tonic water if you get the herbal drift. Solid if currently missing some spirit but time will make a difference. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Proper and correct northeastern Etna road taken in terms of extraction and transparency, A good volume (upwards of 30,000 bottles) that will repeat in 2024 after the disastrous 2023. Real cherry fruit but also the stone that speaks to what Contrada Arrigo is want to lend in mineral terms for nerello mascalese. That mixed with some fruit from other sources but our palates get the drift. Good Rosso that will improve with vine age and agronomist/winemaker Rosario Raciti’s familiarity with this farm. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC C. da Arrigo 2022

Etna Rosso from the single contrada (Arrigo) where Terre Darrigo’s amphitheatre grows nerello mascalese in a most beautiful rustic setting on southeastern facing, tightly packed terraces between the volcano and the sea. You can feel the great difference between this wine and the classico Rosso though if you are from this place you say it with sentito, that is with feeling, shouting out this is “the wine from L’Etna!” This single contrada wine elevated from that appellative discourse, softens the bitter cherry stone and smooths transitions. This because it’s a very well made Rosso from a place of great potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

The most understandable and straightforward Etna Rosso there could be, mature and layered, of riches and earth, fruit and soil all in the mix. A volcanic paint by numbers canvas of realism and beauty, easily accessible and generous to a perfectly reasonable degree. Entry point for the DOC and once in, never to look back. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Some very ripe fruit here from Tonatore’s Pietrarizzo Rosso in the ways of late picking and good solid pressing. Makes for a chewy nerello mascalese that will ready itself for consumption quite a bit earlier than quite a bunch of its peers. Plenty of flavour and attraction for a wine that should be consumed over the next three years. Last tasted May and September 2024

North slope of Etna cru of nerello mascalese put to 50hl foudres, blended and then settled in concrete ahead of bottling. Consistently one of the finer Rosso values in Contrada-specific Etna and here the fruit ripeness and maturity is as fulsome as it ever gets. Makes for a drink really early proposition and provided that advice is followed there will be perfume, heady flavours and good acidity in your glass. A wine to lead off high-end tastings and dinners here, there and everywhere. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa la Guzza – Vigneti Vecchio

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Sciare Vive 2022

The work of Rosa La Guzza and Carmelo Vecchio in Solicchiata on L’Etna’s northeastern slope and a blend of several contrade. The signature Rosso of highest production that sees concrete, botti and fibreglass. Some of the vines date back 150 years and there are many varieties involved in what is a true field blend, including the likelihood of ancient red and white varieties; minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico, catarratto and malvasia. But when it comes to grapes (if not perhaps location and elevation) the Etna DOC offers an inclusive and forgiving discipline. Rosa admits this Rosso to be “a little rough,” Carmelo nods in agreement and while also tumble there is just so much flippin’ personality. It may blow your mind and also lash your palate, but in the end nothing else on Etna, or anywhere else tastes like this Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Friera 2022

Contrada Friera is Carmelo Vecchio’s Etna Rosso from Lingualossa, of 95 percent nerello mascalese and a smattering of various endemic varieties (minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto) from vines as old as 120 years of age. Less than one hectare provides this antediluvian hodge-podge of the varietal wild and the maker’s job is to simply gather and come what may. His vineyard is basically a monopole and so there is no frame of reference save for what the eastern Etna spirits might whisper in his ear. Material this old will do what it pleases and while there is a rusticity similar to Sciare Vive there is also more concentration, complexity and most importantly intuition. There could always be the possibility of importune happenstance but Friere knows what to do. It would seem. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2022

Classic and that means arch-classic texture brought forth from a Carmelo Vecchio nerello mascalese. Without a doubt the purest and cleanest Vigneti Vecchio Rosso to date made under his tenure. A challenge of vintage but a test passed with flying colours and sweet spot found. Allow this 2022 to rest on the palate for 20 seconds, to take in its weightlessness and ability to hover just above the senses. A signature of Malpasso that will repeat and be recognized going forward. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2020

As with Friere, the Etna blend from Contrada Malpasso (literally “bad step”), is a Rosso of 95 percent nerello mascalese with bits and bites of various indigenous varieties like minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto, here from vines in the 120 year-old range. A Rosso that pulses, still with some residual CO2 and it feels like carbonic maceration was a part of the deal. Carmelo Vecchio in fact started with the method in 2020 so family and friends could get together and make a party of it. Malpasso shows great energy, fabulously so, alive and kicking. It is said that one wrong step can change everything but a mal passo might just result in a wildly entertaining wine like this. Drink this sooner than the other VV’s while this candle still burns. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Crasà 2022

Contrada Crasà for Etna Rosso is composed of 90 per cent nerello mascalese and a field blend of (10) local white varieties, in this case inzolia, grecanico and catarratto. The hectare and a half was planted in 1930 and so 92 years is the number for this vintage. Call it even and just say century vines because 1930 seems a bit arbitrary at this point for a vineyard that sits just one km away from another where vines are 130 years of age. Carmello Vecchio likes to use stems, co-ferment and give 15 days of skin maceration. The acts of pigeage and remontage are done lightly and so the sweetness and purity of fruit is kept in tact. Like the Malpasso this buzzes with energy but with more control, less wildness and yet remains very much alive. All the red berries are imagined to be represented and once again Vigneti Vecchio presents a unicorn wine. They always are. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Benanti

Other Wines

Benanti Viticoltori Nerello Cappuccio 2022, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

A rare varietal nerello cappuccio, without oak since 2014, not always made and says Salvino Benanti, ”not a wine you can make a business from, but it’s worth showing to the world.” A versatile red to chill, very gamay like, or if you ike to compare locally, in the vein of frappato. Does not grow (perfectly) well in every vintage and there is surely a rusticity but you can see just how well Benanti tames the edginess, softens the structure and maintains a sweet herbal profile. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Chardonnay C’eragià 2021, Sicilia DOC

Tasca’s Etna interpretation of chardonnay comes from a one-acre vineyard in Contrada Rampante and no shock to sense the scents of barrel fermentation. There is vanilla, white caramel, honeysuckle, fennel pollen and lightly toasted biscuits with an autolytic wind ‘a blowing. A still chardonnay imagined as being subjected to a secondary fermentation in bottle and a sparkling method wine should be so lucky to have this fruit as its maker. The flavours feign sweetness accented by spice., energy runs high and in the end C’eragià which translates as “it was already there” is a fine interpretation of chardonnay. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Donna Bianca 2018, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

With fruit from outside of the defined DOC yet in Carmelo Vecchio’s world a most important vineyard at 820m of elevation. The mix of soil and climate make for a poignant and prescient nerello mascalese named for Donna Bianca, the snowcapped “lady,” a.k.a the volcano at 3,000-3,300 metres above. High-toned, free-spirited, big acid bomb and half the glycerin of some of Vecchio’s other reds. Far from volatile despite the lightning style with great potential and a truly high ceiling. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Dessert wines

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Moscato Passito Di Terreni Vulcanici 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

A moscato (bianco) but the variety is muscadelle, not moscato di alessandria, a.k.a. zibbibo. Dried fruit, never crushed, always infused after the stainless ferment and finishes at 110-120 g/L of residual sugar. Uniquely Sicilian if not defined or expressive of being from L’Etna but still a tradition is followed. Clean as Passito will be, without formaggi or yeasty notes, of apricot and fig, acidity enough though unassuming. Serves a purpose, preferably with a good bite into biscotti. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Visits with Planeta and Serra Ferdinandea

Planeta Syrah Maroccoli 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Just the syrah facts, “in purezza” as they say, from an Ulmo site with a proviso for as much varietal perfume as anywhere in Sicily. “We were expecting some kind of natural catastrophe, “says Winemaker Patricia Tóth, “because it was 2020 – but it never arrived.” Good winter precipitation was followed by months of pleasant weather, much like 2014. Succulent acids and tart idealism combine to elevate, buoy and celebrate fruit. A syrah of a rising, balanced, long and true. Has already entered the drinking zone. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Burdese 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A cabernet joint, of 70 sauvignon and 30 franc, each noticeable and notable for this Sicilian play on words. Burdese, as in Bordeaux for a wine grown on the left bank of the man made lake, once a river flowing through the valley below Ulmo in Sambuca di Sicilia. Forget the mimic or simulation because place supersedes idea with a mix of juicy and dusty fruit, succulent acids and fine tannins. No grittiness or grippy intensity but really more a matter of verticality and integration. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Merlot Sito Dell’Ulmo 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A 100 percent merlot from the Ulmo Vineyard, owned since 1694 and a first harvest in 1995. From this part of Menfi where the sun shines bright and the breezes blow every day between the massifs to the north and Monte Cerami that separates the vineyard from the sea. Menfi where the typical reds of merlot outlast the opposing greens by 10 to one and so fruit is everything with the local limestone streaking through. Succinct wine, linear and direct, credibly structured and the cohort involving fruit and wood seamlessly integrated. Fine stuff, veritably reasoned and seasoned. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2019, Sicilia Menfi DOC

An extra year in bottle and at first there seems not to be the great difference that might have been expected when tasted side by each with Didacus 2020. In fact 2019 is a much more tannic and structured vintage with its intensity cross-examined by austerity. Indemnity for cabinet franc with an upwards trajectory of extending verticality and still it requests for more time. The fruit is far less succulent and lush as compared to ’20 and so when the wine falls into place there will be a faster intern into secondary character. Expect quicker to arrive fungi and a masala of spice directed by the wood. Wait another year at least and then drink this Didacus ’19 before the ’20 finishes its own run. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

First vintage of the 100 percent nero d’avola Rosé was 2020, grown aboard the serious limestone at 400-plus metres subjected to the south sea, Saharan and Mistral winds that blow through the Sambuca di Sicilia Valley. While southern France might seem to be the precursor that may no longer be the case, if namely because a blend now becomes a varietal wine. Better for the decision and change, now a step up in rich flavours, texture and presence. Fine and elegant. Last tasted September 2024

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interst and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Bianco 2022, Sicilia DOC

Mezzo e mezzo, 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc grown at elevation like the nero d’avola, only stainless steel for fermentation. The grillo has always been a natural fermentation of a pied de cuve way, while the sauvignon follows dutifully along. A true bianco joint, friendly and smart, sapid and salty, phenolic and grippy. Brat not nat, not bratty and certainly not natty. Crisp and edging into herbal with a what just feels like place, that being Menfi. You can forage for salads in the fields and vineyards, reflected in the flavours of this Bianco. Last tasted September 2024

Mix of 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc, for now the only two white grapes and making up a third of the 17 hectares total. The most recent planting was 2021, the first back in 2015. All about freshness and salinity with just a bit of wood thanks to 25 percent, none of it new. The wood is present by only in subtle and oscillating tones on the mouth. Some phenolic presence yet again, not overdone or even remotely aggressive. A bit buttery at the finish, graced by piquancy and the sort of scorrevole that drifts slowly away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia 2022, Sicilia DOC

Another 50-50 blend, here from nero d’Avola and syrah, equal partners in crime. The wines used to be 70-30, including the Rosato and now half an half makes much more sense for Rosso. And in turn it makes the Rosé that much better as a varietal nero. More syrah brings more spice and also meatiness matched by mineral, spice and elements of the earth. A hit of sanguine, a hint of iodine and then the floral nero kicking in. It continues with its freshness and necessary mix of sapid meeting salty, from limestone, sea and wind revivalist nature. The most complex and frankly interesting becoming delicious red blend in the winery’s short history. Just FYI the Serra Ferdinandea catalogue lists the wines from Rosso to Bianco to Rosato, in that order. Just the way tasting wine should be and yet we taste in the opposite order. Maybe we’ll switch that around in 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Equal parts syrah and nero d’Avola, straightforward, clean and with the idea being to make the purest iteration that exults two very important grapes. Increasing the concrete involvement though this is all done in wood with subsequent vintages to go in that cemented direction. Already croccante so imagine the freshness and crunch going forward. Purple violets, light chalkiness and what feels like sandy soil-effected freshness. Piquant and toothsome. Delicious. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

godello

Versante Nord, L’Etna

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2021

The contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur

Aug12

A journey through the wine-lands of Sicilia is fluid and casual, yet timeless. The island’s contempo rhythms are their own and while each and every region is characterized, in fact stamped by a distinguishing mark or feature, there is a kinship that connects, especially through its people. A nearness of relations from east to west, an imperturbable sense of self-possession juxtaposed against the unspoken rule of being collectively Sicilian. The wine community acts exactly this way, feels irrefutable defined by characteristics of the present period and its modernity shines. People of poise, assurance, self-confidence, culturally and mosaically grouped together through a historic parade of travellers, occupiers, settlers and traders through time, yet belonging to the same contemporary age, living in the same period of time. Behold the contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur.

From Biancavilla at 900m just at the upper limit of the DOC. Sands, rocks, all volcanic for 100 percent carricante. Quite herbal, of thyme and bay laurel, but also the local Ginestra. Intense tang and thick acidity – creating great salivation and yet the palate lightens in the second half of the wine. You can feel the 12 months in cask because of lees and oxidative movement, for complex notions and preservation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Grillo Pharis 2022, Sicilia DOC

From Faro on the northeastern part of Sicily where the humidity concentrates and the breezes blow higher. A varietal grillo, quite peachy and freshness important because acidity more than keeps pace. Clean and an afternoon delight of a Sicilian white wine. The tonneaux adds texture and extends the fruit while never adding compaction. Very well rounded and made. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta di Castellaro Eùxenos 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

In the territory of Lipari in the (active) volcanic Aeolian where malvasia rules acroos the 160 hectares of the islands. Fertile soils, like a mix of Etna and Pantelleria. All malvasia (delle Lipari) grown at 350m on sandy basalt soils, of a natural fermentation and a deep golden hue because of a healthy maceration, followed by 10 months in amphora. Delicate perfume, orange blossom, dried white fig, dried and candied citrus before finishing at white pepper. A smoulder and easy character from beyond primary aromas mixing with the volcanics that not only characterize, but define this wine. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

Tenute Bosco’s Sofia Ponzini and Godello together again

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre Phylloxera 2017

Mario Paoluzi – I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Aetnus 2011

From Castiglione di Sicilia and specifically Muganazzi where 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio are grown in volcanics but also tufo and pumice. Gamey aroma mixed with the threefold mix for a highly particular balsamico. Ample new (one-third to be precise ) tonneaux which gives this Etna Rosso full on spice meets smoulder to leather-weatherize fruit and finish at drying tannins. Though nearly 13 years of age the wine has not fully resolved, though the fruit is now past peak. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Valle dell’Acate Vittoria Frappato DOC Vigna Bidone Sottana 2023

From the dry black silt and sandy/stony soils of southern Sicily in Acate at sea level. Perfumed, clean, soft tannins and all about its fruit. The single vineyard designation gives focus and direction because this really ancient Sicilian grape owns true potential. Vigna Bidone Sottana comes from old plant material, a 1.88 hectare plot that will only improve and instruct its vines to offer up complexity with more time. A launching point frappato for anyone who wants to know what pleasure can be had from this grape. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudi Del Pisciotto Versace Nero d’Avola 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

The territory is Niscemi at 200m on red sandy soils for nero d’Avola that sees a healthy 20 days of maceration. Chewy, an inward and implosive turn of fruit and acidity intertwined. Barrique aged, archetypal nero d’avola that’s quite expected, of lifted aromas, dark fruit and peppery piques. Classic liquorice and a herbaceousness that the grape often shows, ot unlike cabernet franc. Layers of tannin equop this ’21 with a decent potential for aging. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Candido Nero d’Avola 2021, Sicilia DOC

From Camporeale in the western side of Sicily, of nero d’Avola at 400m with no wood aging, only stainless steel. Openly fragrant and varietally obvious, a bit pressed which brings some greenness, pine resin and rosemary with natural tannins. Mix of ripenesses in the tannins which can feel austere and rustic. Honest and real continental example of nero d’avola. Dries out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Duca di Salaparuta Triskelè 2021, Sicilia DOC

A unique area for nero d’Avola, from Riesi and Butera heading into Western Sicily. Specifically from the The Suor Marchesa Estate, of clay and calcareous soils at 350m with aging in new and second passage barriques. The wood is very much involved, of grainy texture, waves and layers of spice, toasty and salty. Rich and high acid as well to keep the energy up. This must resolve and integrate further, which will happen in two-plus years though after five it will surely arrive into mushroom and truffle. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Grillodoro Late Harvest “Noble Rot” 2018, Sicilia DOC

A rare botrytis-affected dessert wine for modern day Sicilia, a grillo allowed to reman on the vines longer than any other in southwestern Sicily. Mid-October through early November, a few bunches at a time picked and brought in over at least a two week period. Not a Passito, more Sauternes as an example and finishing at 140 g/L of residual sugar. Late harvest berries sent to wood, acidity more than perceived and in fact preserved, persevered and prepared to lead the fruit. Pineapple and apricot, quite fresh considering the agricultural method and also the aging style. Perfectly clean, honeyed, a touch waxy on the palate with corresponding saltiness, gently tannic with lemon iced tea. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

Godello with the AIS Sicila Sommeliers

Related – All the wines of Sicily

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

En Primeur Sommelier Tastings

Spumante

Castellucci Miano Brut 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Distinctly catarratto with a lime twist and boundless energy. Scintillant style, high tempo, treble off the charts and length to boot. Just a lovely ceremonial bubble for happy occasions. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Gaudensius Metodo Classico Pas Dosé, Terre Siciliane IGT

So very curious and suggestive of glorious sparkling which is about as light in colour as any found anywhere this style is made. Not just Sicily and the near absence of skin contact time puts this is a singular space amongst peers, especially on Sicily with nerello mascalese. Drinks with ease yet also a controlled intensity of emotion. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 20244

Principe Di Corleone San Loé Brut 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP

Quiet and demure, crunchy and mounting momentum after first sips. Gains traction and stars to presume a great stage presence before lingering effortlessly. Just a bit of sweetness distracts but this is both a well made sparkling and consumer rounding one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Brut Nature Metodo Classico Enrica Spadafora 2018, Vino Spumante Di Qualità

Stays on lees for 36 months, Pas Dosé because all the wines are dry and that is the estate’s firm direction. Freshness yes but grape and slight gingery-oxidative character are the complexities urged forth by the grillo grape. Calming sparkling wine, all in order, pleasing and yes also complex. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Frappato Spumante Rosemosse 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Located in Butera within Caltinasetta, started in 2019 on an estate that had been abandoned for 30 years. Of 175 hectares, 18.5 are planted, 15 in production. Almonds, olives also part of production. Charmat method, soft press and after five months it spends two months on lees. Straight frappato, extra brut style and so 4 g/L of RS, tart, very strawberry, big energy groove and patterning on repeat. Tends and trends to the higher level on the Brut scale in terms of residual sugar yet early picked varietal acids keep the pace and faith. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Zahr Bianco Frizzante 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Zahr the flower from Arabic, a sparkling wine using grillo and chardonnay made at low pressure (max. 2.7 bars) and so not exactly by Charmat style, finishing at 12 percent alcohol and low residual sugar. Floral in every way, citrus is lime and the persistence very high for how this is made. Light bubble, easy and enjoyable. Spritz it up! Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut Sessantamesi Metodo Classico 2016, Etna DOP

Reductive style, maturing, now in the middle road in terms of fruit and energy, high acidity yet also sugars running that way. A big and openly gregarious expression for a consumer who likes it sweet, sour, intense and wild. Last tasted May 202

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Brut Rosato Metodo Classico 2021, Etna DOP

Quite a dry, rusty and rosy Rosé sparkling, clean and fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

The view from Splendid Hotel La Torre, Mondello

Rosato

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Rosato DOC Vignazza 2023

Funky, earthy and cheese rind, herbal and acidulated roasted peppers. Notable onion skin and red apples. Not the most balanced work with nerello mascalese. Drink 2024. Tasted May 2024

Baglio Di Pianetto Viafrancia Rosé 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Full, rich and substantial Rosé for those who wish for some pulp and flesh. An excess of red berry riches, proper acidity, only a pinch of residual sugar and persistence to satisfy in the end. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Rosé Di Adele 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

The ripest vintage and so picking early was necessary but Montoni is in the enviable position of elevation and also ventilation where crosswinds from Africa and the Mediterranean meet. In this place and of a warm vintage there is early ripeness but also thankfully phenolic development so that fleshy fruit, sweet and ripe acidity, then finally phenolic maturity all come into place. This bodes well for nerello mascalese as Rosé. There will be no one who does not find this delicious. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Etna Rosato DOC Rosematte 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

There is this style of Rosé made with nerello mascalese that just says light, dry, breezy an easy – this would define that to a “T.” The plus of all the fruit imagined and needed, a touch of sweetness and simplicity from start to finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interest and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Il Nostro Rosato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Colour, which is quite dark is just from the skins, no pressing, fermented in concrete and aged in steel. A Tavel hue, natural and appreciated, without pith, tonics or bitters. Top quality mix of the salty and the sapid, the rich and the stony. Could drink a bucket full because of its 100 percent nero d’Avola flavour, honestly and balance. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Rosato DOC Scalunera 2023

About as light and airy as it gets for Rosato, crunchy and salty, simple, easy and available. Chill, get at it and enjoy the fullness of a day. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

From Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2022

The Bianco carricante of Rinazzo are so very different to (especially) Cavaliere, namely because of humidity but also due to closer proximity to the sea. Here is a Superiore example, allowed to be labeled this way in the eastern area (of the village of Milo) and Bennati’s is richer, fuller and also more textural. Not just a case of lees but the aforementioned micro-climate really makes the case. A fine and impressive iteration indeed. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Campione: From three Contrada, carricante 100 percent, no issues with mildew because of an agronomist’s intensity of focus to root it out. Harvest in the first week of October and this comes away rich and full, so very developed and quite fruit explosive. Seven months of lees and stirring is very much in play this way. Fresh and full – just the way so many will find their love for this Etna Bianco. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Isolano 2021

About as curious and unique as it gets for Etna Bianco with this by Donnafugata at impressive elevation from a place called Isolano. The vintage delivers great sunshine and therefore ripeness for a maximum amount of fruit development that because of an extra year in bottle has now come to a place of generosity. More tang than saltiness and very ready to drink. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Balza Delle Poiane, Contrada Zottorinotto 2022

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2022

Some wood on Arcurìa that the Classico Etna Bianco does not receive and so this is not as lean, nor is it vertically the same. Citrus mixes with mineral, some austerity and magic that makes this more complex. Crisp however, but fleshy because the concentration and the contrada want this wine to end up this way. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Nicosia Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Gorna Biologico 2023

Quite rich and developed considering the youth and also a minor cheese rind lactic note in what feels like Etna Bianco working through its machinations. A bit awkward to be honest and a little bit of time should see some coming together. Then again the window is tight and so the time is just a bit ahead of now. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

La leggenda Patricia Tóth – Planeta

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

New label alert for Planeta’s 100 percent Passopisciaro carricante that celebrates, codifies and contemporizes the Etna eruption of 1614. Incredible intensity and roll in the hay of varietal beauty with striking acidity for what may just be the most brilliant shine ever noted in this emotional wine. Emozione indeed, of a respect for plants and place, of volcanic flows and their craggy rocks, of florals, herbals and all that lives and loves. The extra year in bottle intensifies, stratifies and solidifies both experience and intent. So fucking bon. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Classic Etna Bianco style that has come to be defined as “mountain wines” driven by volcanic soils. Here a rounded example with no sharp points, edges or spikes, fruit quotient run higher than most, riper and developed for immediate gratification. Substantial to every degree, acidity as sweet as it comes and everything so very up front. As good an introduction to the genre, idiom and place as there can be. Last tasted May 2024

Extreme unction and notable lees usage though keep in mind this is 2022. As young, impressionable and not quite out of the gangly stage as an Etna Bianco can act. Laden with lemon, much of it fresh squeezed, some unresolved phenolics (and aldehydes) and a shield of early structure or elastic membrane that is yet to slide away and reveal the full nature of what will surely be a cracker wine. Would much prefer to taste this a year from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021

Of Tornatore’s cru-designated Bianci it is Zottorinotto that acts the most reductive and hard to crack. Great shell of protection and disguise, needing agitation and better still time. That said the 2021 is also fully formed, developed and very much ready to get at – make sure to aerate, decant if you can and allow the pleasures to be released. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Scalunera 2023

Varietal carricante from Etna’s northern slope with just about as knowable and definable an Etna Bianco as there can be. This is Scalunera, of perfumes and fruit flavours yellow and green, crunchy and caught at the peak of freshness. What you call a dictionary entry that will be enjoyed by all – to great satisfaction. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Other DOC and IGT Whites

Donnafugata Passiperduti 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only grillo from Sicily’s west-central hinterland surrounded by hills and then the seas. Freshness and phenolics, lemon, grapefruit and botanicals, the things that grow around vineyards and up through the slopes. A crispy and lemon zested grillo like no other, made to order for grilled fish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

What catarratto will do when a grower and winemaker like Fabio Sireci gets it into his hands – to offer perfumes of white flowers and flavours of green fruits, always fresh and delicate. Persistence and linger, the way it should and wants to be. One of Sicily’s most honest and consistent white wines. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Dei Fornelli 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Feudo Montoni’s will always be one of the most harmonic, restrained and yet phenolic-gripped meets mutli-floral/fruity inzolia of the island. The citrus intensity, a zesting of lemon and lime made liquid to seal the cracks puts this ’23 in a state of grace. Must try varietal wine if not the ideal vintage because of warmth that begot early ripening. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only Fabio Sireci’s grillo comes forward this way, with an equal combination of full fruit determination and linear capacity. The mix of Sicilian exoticism and knowable character puts this at a varietal level to bely the island capabilities of the lion’s share. Not surprising considering the pick begins in late August and finishes early in September. Freshness yes but so much more, first from natural matter and then because skipping past the noise to arrive here confirms Sireci’s intelligence to make a grillo understood in the hands of instinctive tasters and consumers. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Masseria Del Feudo Grillo Hermosa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Ideal middle of the road grillo example, white and yellow florals, lemon segmented and juiced, herbal and direct. A good chill on a warm day, some fried calamari and all will be right in the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

The second vintage of a 100 percent catarratto from plants that went in back in 2015 on white calcareous soils. Only bush vines and at first made into a blend with grillo. The change was made to do some skin contact and aging in amphora. Really that simple and that is the advantage, no overdoing or distraction in trying to impress. But this does just that, with vibrancy and succulence. Really taut, lemon tight, nearly but not quite piercing. Will change after three years and get honeyed. Reminds of really young Hunter valley sémillon. Top echelon decisions and so bravo Filippo Mazzei and team. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Azisa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only stainless steel, short contact with the skins, made in a very traditional way. Perfectly arranged, straightforward and simple, of lemon citrus and white flowers by grillo that by now presses the idiom into Sicily’s concept of island time. Crunchy and just ever so slightly pith bitter, lemon again and again, unrelenting in style and quick by design. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2023, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Ripeness, juicy forthright quality and all in interface with what feels like every pore for both aromas and with the palate. The Terebinto, a.k.a Cyprus Turpentine never takes a break nor moves absently around. There is purpose in every aroma and flavour, not as an attack, but as a dance. This grillo gets better and better every year. Shiny happy leaves and people. Never out of time for this grillo. “Put it in the ground. where the flowers grow, gold and silver shine.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Bianco Alastro 2023, Menfi DOC

Varietal sauvignon blanc and not just any but from a southern Sicilian shore where the sea winds and scrublands are simply different to the Mediterranean side. All that matters conjoins for a whole new way to see the grape. Crispy and crunchy, salinity running amok and oysters or crunchy fried fishes (hopefully) waiting on the table. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With the legend, Alessio Planeta

Planeta Allemanda 2023, Sicilia Noto DOC

It’s a moscato bianco but not the kind you think, in fact it’s not only bubbles that are missing from Planeta’s Noto example. Extract and tannin rise above sweetness and fruit though there is plenty of ripeness noted in the latter. Ripe vintage, perhaps less quantity, but quality fruit makes for a balanced moscato. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Fiano Cometa 2022, Sicilia Menfi DOC

The sole varietal fiano at Anteprima Siciliane 2024 and of course it is Cometa by Planeta which stands the test of island time. Alas and always the subtle smoulder, struck flint but a moment in time and a crunchy quality to supersede the herbs and the lime. Full vintage, well-developed for a fiano that will ready itself a year ahead of its average time. Cometa cometh with palates standing by the ready. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus 2021, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Always the richest example of chardonnay with most honeyed flavours, spice cupboard and savoury eccentricities. The selection considers only the best, they being the ripest bunches with that uncanny ability to collect as mature, almost evolved feeling from its fruit to be converted into a magical example of Menfi. So much sunshine, luxe and refulgence, almost so bright you gotta wear shades sort of chardonnay. A top vintage because acidity, extract and tannin all layer in heaps. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Principe Di Corleone Ridente Angelica 2023, Sicilia DOC

Cool, ethereal, minty, salt-licked and kissed, stoic and proud. Herbal and botanical, of bay laurel and thyme, lemon preserve and the morning juice. Some may find the tonic a bit gin-washed but who should not love these flavours and the style all the same? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Francesco and Enrica Spadafora

Spadafora Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

From vineyards Between 200-400m, a place of sandy soils where freshness is the order for catarratto and yet there is some tropical fleshiness about the ’23 by Spadafora. Would not exactly say salty but more so a split between salinity and sapidity because there are some phenolic moments in this wine. Harmonious and just complex enough to rise above the norm. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Don Pietro Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Named after Francesco Spadafora’s father (and Enrica’s grandfather) who started the winery in 1993. A bit higher in acidity than the straight catarratto because of the inclusion of grillo and so a higher saltiness, succulence and energy. This is expressive of attitude in such a good way. Will gain interest after a couple of years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Grillo Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

For the grillo the plants are kept to a relative minimum vigour but cutting away the “moustache and the tail” while keeping the interno. Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and just a few months on lees. Remarkably if subtly flinty, smouldering and textural, simply from land and grape, coming together for a really unique effect. It’s truly Spadafora, their place and how they allow this quality to speak. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Siriki Orange 2017, Terre Siciliane IGP

Grillo on skins for 30 days, now nearly seven years of age yet freshness somehow persists. Surely owing to clean lees and how they lay to present themselves as they continue to ready their host. Enrica Spadafora explains how she and her father were wanting to have a different style of orange and also this is grillo, not your every day average variety for the style. Was structured and has now settled, though there are some tannic moments drying the palate in the end. Impressive all in all, seemingly ambitious, but the result is there. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Sofien 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Half and half grillo and chardonnay, as with all the wines they are called “Totò Navarra,” first and last name of the owner and you can’t just use Navarra because well, Spain. Totò, as in Salvatore. Fruit, flowers, simple, sunshine and some chardonnay backbone, but just clean and fresh which is just what is needed. Fine and easy yet acidity and persistence are essential and the finish more sapid than salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2024

Etna Rosso DOC

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

The juiciest of all the ‘22s for Giuseppe Russo and if also the least structured there can and should be no complaints. Reeking of and oozing nerello mascalese flavours so cherry red, fresh, clean and particular. There are no others like this – the level of energy without unnecessary heated intensity is remarkable. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

The allure of Feudo is real, the consistency of its fuxed expression divine and the work in Giuseppe Russo’s world a conduit to access the sublime. Sure there is a quiet restraint at this early stage of 2022’s tenure but how could we miss the high levels of fruit and structure combining for purpose and potential? A big and full Feudo from the variable vintage, chewy and layered, stratified volcanics making sure that when maturity comes there will always be mineral. What a Feudo indeed. Peak of Feudo freshness out of the embers and smoulder of a warm season. The secret is Etna and this section of the vineyard. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2021

Laying down expectation can be a dangerous thing, but can’t be helped some times. Knowing Giuseppe Russo and the Piano delle Colombe block of the San Lorenzo vineyard will induce and send thoughts down such a path from a 2021 that not only matches but exceeds what was thought to be possible. Aromatically positive signs and the deliverance of a fleet of nearly perfected ripenesses come to such a consummated fruition are come upon by way of unconscious results. Optimal not optimum, because there is no such thing, but only the attainable which in this case is superlative balance. Harmonies of all parts, out of field to bottle, through every rise, depression and plateau, from start to finish and everything in between. The critical moments are found, like cooking a perfect steak, pushing your finger into its soft middle fleshy belly and feeling the exact spring back desired. A greta or pearl of a nerello mascalese, a highway tune, “so sweet, so fine, so nice, all mine. “I prefer ’21,” admits Russo. Smart man. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted May 2024

Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive , so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Pistus 2022

From L’Etna’s northern side at Contrada Muganazzi, only stainless aging, no wood and thank you very much. I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna have been working with this contrada since the beginning (2007) though Pistus the label dates to 2012. Some volatility though just a hint and not too distracting, Amaro herbal and very complex. Big wine though fresh, crispy and crunchy, with good freshness. Serious lift to this Etna Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2020

The most developed for Rampante with a spicy 2020 aromatic entry, concentrated and refined while residing on the darker red fruit side of the line. Lift, balsamico gariga, bay laurel, crunchy and herbal. So very complex and as far as Etna nerello mascalese goes there is more savoury depth from this by Pietradolce. Full-bodied in all these regards, breadth and volume guaranteed. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the single vineyard in Passopisciaro, site of some of the oldest lava flows on Etna, the 1614 volcanic spill. Another high glycerol event as nerello mascalese because this is what this vineyard must effect upon fruit and 2020 abides. Of course it does but also delivers the kind of Rosso that does not beg for years of waiting. The tannins are sneaky but not austere, the acidity so sweet you would like to spoil it as dessert. More precise than the Etna Rosso (mainly from Feudo) but clearly nella famiglia. Last tasted May 2024

Brightest and highest of scintillant nerello mascalese at impressive elevation on soils developed from the mountain’s 1614 eruption, in other words ancient but still young by world standards. Each and every lava flow resulting in volcanic soils is different on Etna and this 406 year-old tract is unequivocally responsible for Planeta’s 2020 style. Sure the winemaker might have a say but her job is to let the vineyard speak which she does as well as any artista/professionalista on the mountain. Buon lavoro PT. Stupendo. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Other DOC and IGT Reds

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Candied floral aromas, of pansies and nasturtium namely with a lift so very suggestive. There is a note of Brettanomyces yet at a subtle level and while the effect is slight the palate trails into a momentary lapse of brittle tannin. Still the beauty and the natural smile of this frappato are intoxicating and we simply will not turn away. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Castellucci Miano Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not the most openly fragrant frappato with red berries the most notable entry but no real overt sense of florals. Sweetly herbal, cherry drop and then sweet basil before the palate feels the full true nature of the wine. Cool and gelid with a mint to bay layer herbal feel for a wine well made if pressed just a smidgen past prime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Frappato Bell’Assai 2022, Vittoria DOC

Straight ahead Vittoria frappato, floral and striking, citrus up front part green and part red, like cranberry and pomegranate with a chiffonade of tarragon. Some chewy quality here, of liquorice and fruit leather, flavour profile high and acidity cool, tart and fine. Gets better with each subsequent sniff and sip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Floramundi 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

Lifted, high spirit and tone, herbal, juicy and citrusy for the frappato-nero d’Avola Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend. On the light and transparent side of such an appellative joint which suggests more frappato and also choice of style. Light and linear, suggestively tannic and a great food wine for that meat to fish overlapping. Liquid chalky and lengthy. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Terre Di Elio 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A very good vintage for the variety though her recent tasting from tank causes Melissa Muller to say that ‘23 “will be even more vertical.” That said the ’22 is not your average, every day nerello mascalese, not by any stretch of the Sicilian imagination. Fully formed, attractive and finding no obstacle to hinder leaving its impression. Balanced throughout, without equivocation, fruit followed by acidity, stepping back to fruit before than fast forwarding two steps to really fine tannins. Lightens as it moves and finishes pretty much where it started. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Perricone Core 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A perricone from Fabio Sireci of as much substantial fruit up front as the winemaker has ever put together. Aromatic volume gives way to palate and mouthfeel where depth and breadth really take centre stage. Big in terms of fruit presence though not the most structured ever. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Lagnusa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Lagnusa may be hard to say but it is never hard to drink and enjoy to fullest extent of Sicilian nero d’Avola law. Or joy because its mix of local savoir faire, freshness and understated structure make it as ideal a five to seven year wine as any on the island. One of those crunchy exterior, chewy interior neros that remain constant from start to finish. Grace, charm and honesty incarnate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035. Tasted May 2024

Zisola definitely suits Filippo Mazzei

Mazzei Zisola 2022, Noto Rosso DOC

Zisola is a project for Filippo Mazzei that began with a 700 km drive around Sicily accompanied by Diego and Alessio Planeta. Noto was chosen because of the biodiversity of the flora, to Filippo not unlike Tuscany. He also fell in love with the old Baroque town and could see a comparison between nero d’avola and sangiovese. “The decision was made based on a feeling.” The 2022 is so much fresher than the nero of 15 years ago, not to mention the balance accrued by way of alberello trained vines. Open up the dictionary and here it is. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

Just a 5,000 bottle production, not released until it sees an extra year in bottle. “Planted from the very the beginning,” because explains Fiippo Mazzei, “syrah was fashionable at the time, but then the Bordeaux varieties went in.” A very structured wine, also showing the wood more than the nero but concentration is so full and the wine just as grippy that it needs the fortification. A solid construct that will unfold after five to 10 years of time. Befitting its name. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Doppiozeta 2021, Noto DOC

Yes another fine Doppiozeta nero d’avola from the Mazzei family and their Sicilian estate. Crispy exterior, chewy interior, spice and herbs as accents, salt and pepper seasoning, chalky tannic, reasoned and knowably fine. Consistently well raised, made and delivered, signed and sealed as a really good wine. The freshness is always there and the acidity so ideally suited to grape and style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Effe Emme 2021, Sicilia DOC

Varietal petit verdot planted in 2004, only 1.5 hectares, just about at the very beginning of Zisola. Incredibly chalky to say that it really speaks for the calcaire but time has come to effect changed so that the vines have come into balance. As petit verdot Effe Emme is not as dark and concentrated as it once was. Really showing its colours, what it is, a child of limestone soils. “Effe Emme,” F.M., long-play radio, well-spoken, one who tells things as they are, Filippo Mazzei. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Frappato 2023, Vittoria DOC

About as fruity and openly floral as frappato will be to say that the style continues to evolve in the most positive way. Without distraction and encumbrance, set to aim, be received and please, without biting or striking back. There is some lift in Planeta’s 2023, in part because youth is a rebellious time to be frappato, but we know this too shall pass and the wine will settle without struggle. The fruit will remain and the song continue to play the same. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Nocera 2023, Sicilia DOC

One of the very few pleasantly made varietal nocera on the island and the only one presented here at the ’24 Anteprima. Surely found to exist along similar lines to nero d’Avola, with a touch more rusticity, also chewy liquorice and leathery fruit character. The 2023 is a good if not high acid nor rather tannic vintage, assembled and delivered for earlier drinking than some. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2021, Noto DOC

Such a fine iteration of nero d’avola as Santa Cecilia, a 2021 more mature and open than before but is that not what it should be? Fruit so naturally curated, sweet and generous to speak of a great potential and long future. Fine acidity as well while also necessary and yet as the wine sits on the palate those credible and knowable quality of nero tannins remind of Cecilia’s past. Anyway this is both handsome and beautiful, vulnerable and strong. Fluid and confident, loving and powerful, with a spoonful of Noto nourishment to last a very good long time. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus Cabernet Franc 2018, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Now in release mode at near six years past vintage and believe when you hear that six more are needed to fully develop the structural intensity so that all parts get to working as one. For now feel the positivity of varietal fruit so obvious and layered, concentrated and confident, but in truth there is a submission to the tannins. They are grainy and chalky, not austere, but yes aggressive. Be patient – this Didacus is a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

The freshest of Spadafora’s nero d’Avola where acidity runs high, tannins lower and lighter wines are produced (in an area considered best for syrah). Fresh yes but there is a mild amount of Brettanomyces here, nothing striking but present. Natural wine lovers may just find this to their liking. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Don Pietro 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

A blend of nero d’Avola, merlot and cabernet sauvignon (40,30,30), aged in only concrete and steel for freshness first. Chalkiness arrives second with thanks surely to soil and here some Brett but also volatility that is a bit distracting. Again it’s just a fractional amount but it is there, however less so than the solo nero d’avola. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP

Fermented in concrete and aged in steel, the freshest syrah that can be made to drink quickly, easily and without hesitation. Cleaner and fresher than the entry nero d’Avola with meatiness and mild peppery grip, though no real density to speak of. Great classic example for all red wine needs. You can chill this one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah Sole Dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGP

Sees one year in barriques and the rest in tank, bottled in July of 2022. Lengthy aging but just a short wood stay so don’t come expecting heavy vanilla, lavender or other French barrel notes. Come instead for the florals, spices, spiciness, liquid pepper, but no smoke. Chalky, tannic and all soil-related, created and driven. Can last for another 10 years. Clean and varietally obvious though not the iodine-meaty syrah kind. Perfume and texture are everything. Balsamico and mint at the finish. ”La terra,” shrugs Francesco Spadafora. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Merlot Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

First vintage though merlot has been growing for many years and so after many trials it has been decided to make a solo effort. Proper, merlot-ness straight away, fruity and verdant. Clean and the land gives the life, breathes of fresh air and soil earthiness that runs complex if dry through the wine. Fine merlot, chic, suave and rewarding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Nero d’Avola Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and 50 percent goes to barrel before going back to tank. Pretty much seven-plus years in total. Maturing and while there are some drying oxidative notes in dried fruit and herbs there is also freshness, acidity and energy. True nero d’Avola locution imagined as Riserva comparable with many other Italian wines, while harmony and style really tell the story. Very, very well made wine with great further potential for aging. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

The team at Totò Navarra

Tenute Navarra Disiato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Dark sandy soils and also light clay to effect frappato more towards the lighter side. Raised only in stainless steel, maintaining ultra freshness, clarity and my goodness this is so drinkable. Top acidity with simple tannin, far from grippy though it’s there, “to wash the mouth.” Crunchy and easy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Maribu 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

The classic mix of nero d’avola and frappato, here in 2022 the blend is 50-50 when sometimes it can be 70-30 or 60-40. A vintage where the two work seamlessly together and frappato carries more meaning than it often will. All sorts of berries, one after another, an apothem of a Cerasuola from which drinkability meets structure pretty much halfway there. A linear blend that travels from its centre to the midpoint of one of its sides. Really fine, of top quality freshness and clarity. Tonnino Guzzo is a winemaker who obviously keeps an immaculate cellar and makes the cleanest wines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Battichié 2021, Sicilia DOC

Battichié, a lullaby that Totò’s mother Maria used to sing to him when he was a child. One year in French barriques, one in steel and then followed by another in bottle. Truth is the grape and soils do show through, even while this remains so youthful, once again proving a winemaker’s acumen and ability. No over use of wood, still clear and fresh with more pieces to the varietal puzzle already there yet still to develop. Ten year nero d’avola for sure. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Good to go!

godello

The view from Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2022, Greve

100 Years of Chianti Classico and Collection Previews 2024

Jul1

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The year 2024 marks a historic one for Chianti Classico’s producers, their land and consortium. It was 100 years ago that Italy’s first Consorzio was formed and today it so effectively conducts affairs on behalf of and at the behest of the most important red wine of Italy. The ambasciatore Godello was a guest to the May 14th Gallo Nero celebrations and later in the month returned for another week of interviews. This on the heels of a most recent month-long journey spent in Tuscany, first taking in the Chianti Classico Collection, then followed by two full weeks of meeting with dozens of producers. The current preoccupation is with Chianti Classico’s next generation, whose daughters, sons, nieces and nephews are returning to work their farms alongside parents and grandparents at nearly forty estates. And counting. The region’s progeny and their view to the future ushers in an extant situation of meaning and promise. Feel free to read between the lines and envision what stories will next be revealed.

Chianti Classico gives unconditionally and without seemingly ever needing to try we receive its gifts, all in and forever. There can never be enough days spent transversing its verdant hills, foraging in teeming forests, walking up and down rows through 10,000 hectares of vineyards or breaking bread with its people. It is simply never enough. Four decades of the Gallo Nero have occupied the writer’s mind, heart and eyes from a territory unlike any other and in the last eight years the association has bordered on obsession. Visits in the last six months have seen the author driving to all points taking in its 11 UGAs, talking, tasting and better getting to know acquaintances and friends. All in the name of “love for the territory, passion for quality, social cohesion, vision and foresight.”

Godello at Villa Calcinaia

The promise of 2024 comes on the heels of a most challenging 2023 vintage which saw more spikes in extreme but also unpredictable climate events, but also 30 days of (May-June) constant rain that encouraged the nasty downy mildew issue called Perenospera. The serious pathogenic foliar disease reveals itself in the form of leaf spots, blights, and distortions, forcing the hands of growers to effect a strong, concerted and persistent attempt at spraying copper and sulphur to combat its deadly activity. This next vintage will fare much better, climate be willing, yet it remains to be seen just how resilient Chianti Classico vines will be.

Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico Cento Anni Gala, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

In the third week of May the three Capponi siblings, Tessa, Sebastiano and Niccolò hosted a grand celebration of Villa Calcinaia’s 500th anniversary. At Brancaia in Radda it was proprietor Barbara Widmer who poured 20 vintages of her Toscana IGT Ilatraia. A meaningful visit with Martino Manetti at Montevertine helped to recalibrate and reorganize thoughts about sangiovese and Chianti Classico. Back in December of 2023 the writer spent a few days with Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi as he packed up to depart after four decades at Olena and blended his final wines at the San Donato in Poggio estate. Working with him briefly on VinSanto del Chianti Classico 2011 will never be forgotten. De Marchi is a Chianti Classico treasure and history will always regard him as a winemaker, thinker and great man who was integral to the appellations’ transition from the 20th into the 21st century. As will many other women and men of the territory who begin the conversion processes of passing their torches to the next generation. These last five years have seen the first stages of a paradigm shift now in full swing and these next five will see to Italy’s most fascinating transformation. The modern era of a next golden age is upon Chianti Classico and if you are not already paying attention, it’s high time to get on board.

Related – Chianti Classico goes to eleven

Cento Anni

On May 14th, 2024 the Chianti Classico Consortium celebrated its first century together with the city of Florence, one hundred years ago after its founding in Radda in Chianti. The first consortium established its offices in the historic Uguccioni Palace in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria and the 2024 occasion resumed its position in these headquarters located within the historic city centre. Godello was proud, privileged, overjoyed and content to have been invited to participate in such a sincere and consummately orchestrated occasion.

President Giovanni Manetti speaks at the Chianti Classico Consorzio Cento Anni, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

The day’s events began with the conference “Back to the Future: Sustainability and regional identity – The future of quality winegrowing,” moderated by Luciano Ferraro – Corriere della Sera in the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. First introductions by Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori. Local speakers were Francesco Lollobrigida – Minister for Agricultural Minister, Food Sovereignty and Forestry; Eugenio Giani – President of the Regione Toscana; Dario Nardella – Mayor of Florence. Esteemed guests from other significant denominations were invited to offer up their congratulations; Matteo Ascheri – President of the Consorzio Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, Italy; Gilberto lareias – President of Port and Douro Wines Institute, Portugal; Morgen McLaughlin – Executive Director of Willamette Valley Wineries Association and Wine Foundation, Oregon USA; Thiébault Huber – President of Confédération des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne, France; Maxime Toubart e David Chatillon – Co-presidents of Comité Champagne, France.

Chianti Classico Cento Anni, Teatro della Pergola di Firenze

What followed was a dissertation and then a round-table discussion covering the intrinsic link between wine and land, the cultural landscape and sustainability. Speaking on Chianti Classico’s cultural landscape was Professor Paola Eugenia Falini – Head of science for the UNESCO application and her talk titled “The estate-villa structure in Chianti Classico.” Ferraro led the round-table with Giovanni Manetti, Piero Antinori, Tessa Capponi-Borawska, Giangiacomo Gallarati Scotti Bonaldi, David Gleave MW, Monica Larner, Prof. Andrea Lucchi and Alessandro Masnaghetti.

Chianti Classico Back to the Future

Nine other events took place over the course of three days in May; Five meetings with starred Florentine chefs, their plates paired with Chianti Classico wines, a musical pairing orchestrated by Leonardo Romanelli and conducted by Filippo Bartolotta. Of greater significance to the future of the Black Rooster were gatherings moderated of Falstaff Magazine’s Simon Staffler with the next generation of producers under 40 who are being passed the baton and given the keys to the territory’s future. The most exciting Cento Anni event took place in the evening of May 14th where 500 guests gathered at the Teatro della Pergola di Firenze for a gala dinner to win all gala dinners. Nothing in Italy recently experienced has compared to the night’s mix of spectacular and emotion.

Cento Anni at Prowein 2024

As with previous anteprime collections the vintages poured were varied and so it was the mix of 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2019 wines that collectively offered up an indication of what is happening in today’s Chianti Classico. Many of the ’22s were poured from campione, hit or miss tank samples often challenging to assess and so even at the Annata level the ’21s are considered to be the current vintage. Though lower in quantity it is the 2021s that are of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers chose to keep their wines behind to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle. In this report the lion’s share of wines tasted happened over the course of one week ahead of, during and across two further weeks following the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Some additional notes are from visits made in December 0f 2023 that were not included in Godello’s recap report covering the second half of that calendar year. More tastings from May 2024 are also included in the following 403 reviews.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

The breakdown is as follows: Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 (49); Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 (80); Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 (19); Chianti Classico DOCG Older Vintages (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 (14); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020 (34); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019 (12); Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG older vintages (18); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021 (7); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020 (35); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019 (20); Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG older vintages (12); VinSanto del Chianti Classico DOCG (2); IGTs (87). Thank you to everyone for reading.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Dusty and sweetly herbal sangiovese with the warmth of vintage and softness endearing through 10 percent cabernet sauvignon plus (5) merlot. A chewy texture, easy and getable, of no particular pinpointing, yet proper for its broad swath of distinction. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Errico, Marta and Gabriele Buondonno

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

A finished wine already blended though drawn from a sample that will be bottled in December. A bigger production than normal and so a sangiovese of volume in more than one dimension. There was some rain in the summer to make the difference but not much, neither occurring too early or too late to compromise quality. Solo sangiovese in vitro projecting forward towards really important structure noted through some chalky tannins. Spiced and spicy notes, depth of fruit and also lifted acidty, all adding up to a Chianti Classico packed with more stuffing than many. This is as good as anything Gabriele has, but also now in collaboration with son Errico Buondonno have made to date. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

True blue 2022 still working through the motions of getting ready for the world and the journey ahead. Ripe fruit from 2022, like 2017 but with more succulence and generosity. Juxtaposed by an underlay of evergreen and a moment of creosote, but also clove. Concentrated from a well-pressed and extracted sangiovese made just that little bit sapid from five percent canaiolo. Wait a year at the very least. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2022, Castellina

L’Aura is another 2022 that shows a readiness and immediate appeal much sooner than most, with thick and unctuous fruit made fresh and bright by one of the higher points in Castellina. Great spicy accents, salt and pepper seasoning, thick pulpy red fruit and some of the vintage’s sweetest acidity. A terrific early to mid term sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Andrea, Daniela, Sergio and Giulia Zingarelli – Rocca delle Macìe, Castellina

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The line of Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico is now separated from the single estate wines, but says Andrea Zingarelli “these are the wines that show where we were born.” Another hot vintage but perhaps more equilibrium overall than 2021 and it shows. This separates from Famiglia Zingarelli and yet it’s inextricably linked. There is five percent merlot that rounds it out and the fruit comes from all the (and only) Castellina estates. No noise, just the facts and the sounds, smells and tastes of the territory. This may just be the cleanest, naturally sweetest and perfectly drinkable Rocca delle Maciè Chianti Classico ever produced. It will appeal to any and all. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

The latest from Sophie Conte (also tasted from barrel on December 4th, 2023) is her first crowing moment, at least to date and in terms of her young career in making Chianti Classico Annata. De-stemmed and no pressing, fermentation at 24 degrees (celsius), 10-12 days, saturated with nitrogen, taste every day, separated when the skins release no more. Made with three vineyards’ fruit; Vigna del Bosco, Vigna del Strada and Casa, right by the house. “I’m pretty happy (we hit the point) in 2022,” admits Sophie. Brightness and freshness found, the goal achieved and bitterness kept not only at bay, but fully away. An aromatic swirl of pinpointed Castellina intensity that draws from the winds and the slopes to translate soil as best and purposed as any. You can feel the energy waiting and wanting to be released. No lack for structure from Conte’s 2022, young and yet to evolve into the polished solo sangiovese it is destined to become. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Surprisingly forthright and open knit for such a young and impressionable Annata from Fèlsina. Calm and relatively settled so soon after going to bottle. The acidity is both sneaky and essential with tannins so similar in their design and style. A full and complete Berardenga for Castelnuovo in 2022, getable earlier than ever before yet in no rush to mature. As clean and generous as ever from the estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Sample or not this smells just like Tenuta di Arceno. A southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga dry, dusty, sharp red fruit and herbal aromatic swell that increases with air to a glorious vanishing point. What follows is another swell of the same fruit and equally sharp acids that carry on wayward along. As for 2022 well this may seem akin to 2017 but as an Annata so much brighter, cleaner, fresher and frankly better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A finished wine though quite compact and reserved so seemingly caught in that limbo between the idea of campione and set to be ready. Quiet and tight, some leather and cherry but those typical notes don’t say so much. Strong-willed, forcefully tannic and frankly feeling pretty ambitious. Should rightly age long and successfully though the jury is out on where and what the end game will be. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico DOCG Il Palei 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Strong willed, boned and still in a state of reserve for a 2022 that not only needs to find the bottle but also further in bottle aging to open up any cracks in the structure. Rich and caky, wood a serious factor at this stage with a structural comport that will see a ’22 follow the sun towards a good long life ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

With Arturo Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Castello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Super ripe of fresh blueberry and sappy at this awkward stage. No doubt about the tenets of depth, breadth and major substance, not to mention ripe, layered and sweet acidity followed by crispy tannins. Long life ahead that should begin to unfold in three years time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Less of a hard nut to crack as far as 2022 barrel samples are concerned because La Montanina’s has found and first turns to upfront fruit. The middle ground is a bit chaotic but then the finishing parts ate about as powerful as they are capable of brining it all together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples. Tasted February 2024

Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Classic lift and high tone of a Ricasoli Annata, more so than those of the recent past. Several layers are here to unfurl, first from classic cherries, followed by Gaiole saveur and notable wood spice. Almost a smoulder but not quite, plenty of freshness and a true sense of 2022. Really well made and appreciated. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

By now this unctuousness and thickened emulsification of the palate’s mouthfeel has become the calling card of 2022 Chianti Classico. Richness, sweet acidity and succulence with this by Riecine arrives as sweetly concurrent as they come. This means tannins as well, good for the gander if not for the long-term cellar. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

You could blind these 2022 Chianti Classico and no matter the UGA they all deliver a thickening of glycerol texture and glide silkily across the palate. There is just a hint of reduction in the Rocca di Castagnoli with moments here and there of Gaiole savour before finishing with a pique of seasoning and spice. Good complexity and fine tannins seal the deal. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Campione: Youthful an traditional sample, Greve classicism defined, dry and balsamic inflected, tannic and far from opening forward. Doors are closed and may not open for another year. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Comfortably reductive and set in its ways but also into skin because the quality of skins in this higher quantity Annata are in delivery of top freshness and potential. A fine example of vintage and one to set eyes on the future with peppery sweetness of fruit and spice. Crunchy and furthering the notion for how Castello di Querceto has truly cemented into the golden age of its Chianti Classico style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Campione: Perfectly balanced sample of 2022 sangiovese, Greve and Vicchiomaggio, red fruit captured with as much perfumed ripeness as could be desired while also fulfilling palate needs. This is what should be expected and gifted from a Campione – a window to the drinking window and potential of the wine. No need for wonder or worry – you know you will get the right stuff from Guado Alto ’22. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

A blend of all vineyards, Ruffoli (Greve), Lamole and Radda, 100 percent sangiovese since 2010. Frost in April claimed many buds but the soldiering on resulted in high quality fruit from all three sources to create as fine an Annata, variegated as ever they could layer as Querciabella. Fruit, acid, tannin on perpetual repeat, mille foglia, maximizing natural purity and sweetness. Also as aromatically charged of tri-terroir perfume to lead where and for what a Querciabella attempting to express itself must be. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Lamole

Campione: Full on expression of the Lamole perfume, from violets and iris to the wet green moisture from calcareous hillsides and humid sandy soil elegance. A lovely swirl of fruit so glycerol in nature and that gentle pique of spiciness upon the palate. This is a 2022 that will be glorious because the team and their most focused of micro commitments have really found the vintage beauty out of the UGA. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Full and substantial which is pretty much what we have come to expect from a Lamole (di Lamole) sangiovese and to a degree much higher than any other from that UGA. Perfumes yes but fruit and texture are the base ingredients to make this wine swell forth. Lots of love and deep space in L de L’s 2021 with a sleek Macigno feel throughout. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Le Palaie Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

High octane aromatics, petrol and plasticine, raw dough and reduction. A train wreck up front and then beautifully glycerin on the palate. Gives off the feeling of a Campione because of the early heat and oxidative sample. Thinking the finished wine will be a great improvement, Stay tuned for another taste somewhere down the line. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2022

Campione: Big, bold and promising Gagliole Annata sample, fortified by Alberese and Pietraforte stony soils, clearly large and impressive. Big tannic freight and profile for the appellation, two years away from settling and five more before the window is fully open. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Though the journey for 2022 was a challenge it was also a vintage combining quantity an quality, then ultimately balance. Tasting from several tanks saw some variability in the samples but technical director Iacopo Morganti’s culm measures and crafty blending helped this sangiovese find its way. The cuvée has finished clean and moderate, certainly lighter than 2020 and 2021 but characterful to a great solo varietal degree. A clarified 2022 that fills the spirit, reminds of the place and provides conspicuous local macchia or balsamico. Treads lightly and delivers that Panzano at Radda’s border to a “T.” Fine wine, nothing big or impressive, but simply IMG sangiovese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Pizza by Michael Schmelzer

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2022, Panzano

Bottled in March, classically Montebernardi juicy as F and at the peak of Panzano perfume. Spiced chalky aromatics too, carried forward and that’s the segue in combination to accede a structured feeling for unlimited possibility. The appellative level seems not to matter because this is cracker fresh and pure sangiovese from the thinking grower and winemaker that is Michael Schmelzer. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted again, May 2024

Campione: Just pulled from barrel so not yet blended and therefore not a finished wine. A perfumed, classically so vintage with succulence, crunchy and liquid peppery. Not its most refined vintage, neither vivid nor intense but it will surely show better once it settles in bottle. Truly perfumed and that will only increase as well with time. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangio’ 2022, Panzano

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted again, February 2024

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

All sangiovese with Radda and Castellina fruit, mostly in concrete (though not quite all) and only steel for the rest. Some fruit is or will be coming from Poggiolo Vineyard in Castellina, a property owned by Candians Rob and Darcy Gillespie. Juicy and simply freshness incarnate. Last tasted April 2024

Sleek, suave and chic Annata for Brancaia out of 2022 with layers of red and blue fruit augmented by quality tannins. Early stages of reserve and reduction but there is no questioning the levels of substance. An extension of a change in style that began in 2019 with the move to bright and honest Classico, yet ’22 is clearly bigger, weightier and with increased structure. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Top Radda terroir, high elevation, rolling terrain, excellent exposure and no lack for biodiversity. Adds up to great potential while 2022 is currently rough and tumble. Chewy sangiovese with wood still noted and yet to melt into the whole. Time will be an ally so that the rustic elements soften and parts integrate better. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

At Radda nel Bicchieri with Angela Fronti and Lorenza Rossi

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: “Arancia sanguinella,” says Angela Fronti, that note of blood orange she always finds in her wines. A really dry summer and you find a level crunchiness and dried herbs from a vintage where picking continued consistently every morning through late September and early October. Clean the grapes as you go explains Fronto and in the end she was very happy with both quality and quantity. Crisp and crunchy Annata for Angela Fronti, undisclosed in its gratuity and wound up like Angela Fronti on a 100 foot high rock face. In other words focused, determined and competitive. Not sure this should even be tasted and assessed in any shape or form today. Come back soon. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Campione: Now the is a proper sample. Fresh, clean, energetic and persistent – doubly refreshing. Lift and beauty of sangiovese with that perfectly judged pH and sapidity raised by 10 percent canaiolo. The problem is this is the kind of sample that makes producers want to submit more of them and yet great showings like this from L’Erta di Radda are the few and far between. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Might come in thinking that tasting and assessing a 2022 and Monteraponi would not be a great idea in February of 2024 but this Braganti sangiovese shoots favourably straight out of the gate. A fulsome and handsome Radda as a varietal expression of fruit so ripe and unctuous you might consider drinking a bottle today. Surprising candour for a Monteraponi this early in its life but there it is, open and generous, social and genteel. Structured as well for many years to continue acting this way. Someone and something has surely softened. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra, San Casciano

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

For Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari the hope is to increase to a maximum of 12 hectares and 35,000 bottles. “This is our dimension,” tells Matteo. And drinking others’ wines is key because if you don’t know what you like then you don’t know how to get where you want to go. The 2022 Annata was just bottled six-plus weeks ago, on August 31st and so this potential hinderance is kept in mind. The first vintage for which a portion was aged in the used Stockinger cask and some more stem (whole bunch) usage moved from (normally 20ish) up to 50-60 percent. You can sense the energy and increased power but still there is a transparency and a purity of red fruit that will not be denied. Comparisons are futile but those who seek out this style in cru Barbaresco or Côtes de Nuits Premier Cru will latch on here, likely to never let go. Next level for Fucile and Vaccari. Don’t care how young this wine happens to be – the potential can’t be ignored. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Vigna Di San Martino Ad Argiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: The tiniest of properties (one hectare) and smallest of productions (2,000 bottles) in San Casciano from Chiettini. A sample but one nose into this 100 percent sangiovese and you know you’ve found something meaningful. A wisdom in the wine born of great terroir and an agronomist’s acumen. The winemaker seems inconsequential or at least respectful to everything else. There is calm demeanour and a presence of freshness, soulful savour and weight without compression. Hard to know what it’s all about, but knowing more will be a next pursuit. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Luiano Chianti Classico 2022, San Casciano

As youthful as it gets for assessing 2022 Chianti Classico and in fact it’s hard to remember a vintage its equal. 2017? Not even remotely exactly. And yet the ’22 from Alessandro Palombo is a thing of San Casciano beauty, aromatically charged of local perfume with as much depth in red fruit as there can be. Clearly verdant as per the UGA’s way while the fruitiness marries happily and walks equally side by side. Merlot does indeed soften and alter the overall expression but why knock deliciousness? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Quite a taut and wound Annata for 2022 with the advantage of elevation next to woods for freshness and crispy preservation. Does well to foil the dried herbs, brushy savour and further aridity provided by austere tannins. Should all come together in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Principe Corsini Villa Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti’s Annata is just about as ready in youth as they come for 2022 and that is not something that can often be said. Duccio Corsini’s work in the river stone strewn fields and modern approach in the winery have been showing recent gains but they keep on coming for sangiovese (and five percent colorino) for immediately gratifying appeal. This will be ready to please in full by the fall of 2024 and with zero reason to doubt. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Blend is 90 percent sangiovese, (5 each) canaiolo and malvasia nera. A 2022 and so a finished wine recently put to bottle but still reductive, reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if hard to access because of extreme youth. Great potential lays ahead no doubt. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

One of the prettier 2022s at this earliest of stages because there is nary a moment of reduction, nor drying notes of any sort to distract. Aromatically open and still secure though no impenetrable fortifications hiding the beauty of fruit or potential of the wine. Traditional sangiovese plus two complimentary varieties for a Monsanto take of the estate’s specific corner of San Donato in Poggio so proximate to Poggibonsi. A full and substantial Annata with a high ceiling as an example set for the UGA and also the territory. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Le Filigare Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Stewed and reductive, nearly impossible to assess. Rich an chalky fruit, loads of acidity and tannin. So very sangiovese with a sapid strike by canaiolo and intensity (also for colour) by colorino. Return after two years in bottle. Tasted February 2024

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

No other Annata is field blend relatable as this from Quercia al Poggio with at least four additional varieties filling out the 80 percent minimum of sangiovese. A largest portion of (12 percent) ciliegiolo and bits of canaiolo, malvasia near and colorino add up to quite a fantastical mix that truly compliment, season, spice, elevate and lift this Annata. A truly fine ’22, rich enough but so complex and quite frankly just has to be the top this far for Vittorio Rossi and oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted February 2024

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Large production from Vagliagli, wood dominant in resinous and medicinal aromas. Lacks some clarity because the winemaking clouds the source and the wine turns toasted and pruned towards the end. Drink 2024. Tasted February 2024

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Southern Castelnuovo Berardenga within the western Vagliagli wing savvy and seductive character, big on fruit though more restrained out of 2022 than before. Deep of inflections reddening to black though again there is a level of admirable restraint. Quite tannic however and so consistent with previous vintages there is a need to exercise some patience. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

CCC2024 at Stazione Leopolda

Chianti Classico DOCG 2021

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

The only Cecchi Chianti Classico produced as a négociant with some other Castellina grapes purchased for this Storia di Famiglia. The family wine, most distributed, easy to drink, just sangiovese and one that must be “a mirror to the vision,” inists Andrea Cecchi, which it clearly is in the most professional way. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Primecolle Villa Cerna 2021, Castellina

Primecolle, the first hill that you see coming in to Villa Cerna with a 360 degree panorama. The expression is not the same as that of Storia di Famiglia but still freshness and Castellina savour that comes from the local argilla soil. More terroir involved, a balsamico and identity that’s even a bit rustic, austere and stringent. Crunchy sangiovese however, with a more trenchant identity and one to really sink your teeth into. Drink 2024-20267. Tasted May 2024

With Enrico, Monica and Cosimo at Villa Pomona

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Pomona comes beauty and also love, of sangiovese (with just two splashes of colorino because it’s there) and who would not intuit that Monica Raspi has become one of this territory’s great instinctual makers of Chianti Classico wines. Rich and understated, unctuous, restrained and refined. Precisely Raspi, Pomona and this drift of a vineyard space in southern Castellina. Something about this Annata is just perfect. Last tasted February 2024

Monica Raspi’s acumen and comfort level have acceded the exceptional because she is passionate about making top echelon sangiovese as much as any winemaker, self-taught or not in Chianti Classico. The 2021 includes just five percent colorino, took 10 days to ferment and remained on its skins for somewhere between three and four weeks. This is a significant number, more prevalent in the region than it was just a few years ago and when managed right will transform Chianti Classico into sangiovese of the ethereal. A substantial, silken and seductive ’21 here from Pomona with its mix of sweet acidity and Castellina liqueur. The tannins are liquid Alberese chalky from a linear wine moving upwards and forwards in stride. This has the length and the balsamico specific to Pomona. A top body of Annata work from Raspi and just the sort of style to pass on to the next generation; Cosimo and Costanza. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

More richness and density than what we’re used to from a Lornano Annata, especially from one made with 100 percent sangiovese. Immediate warmth aromatically speaking and without pause to palate, nor as breaks in structure. A sensation of roasted nightshade vegetables and toasted meaty char. Would be a confusing wine poured in a blind tasting with some varietal examples from the southern hemisphere. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Chianti Classico DOCG Fonterutoli 2021, Castellina

Always traditional with a dried herbal, dusty and brushy component, but truth is the refinement in concrete really silkens and smooths out Annata for an enticing and getable drink now style. Challenging but conversely successful vintage because fruit stands up vertically with the gift from an outstretched sangiovese arm of immediate gratification. Top quality for the usually healthy production Classico for here, now and all to enjoy. Will show at its best a year from now. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

With Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG Belcanto 2021, Castellina

A beautiful song indeed and so a Chianti Classico appropriately named delivers a thing of vintage beauty. Proficiently perfumed, spices piquing on the palate and strategically structured to create a wholly reasoned and seasoned sangiovese. The “other” varieties, whatever they may be and comprising 10 percent do right and well by this fine 2021. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Nittardi Chianti Classico Casanuova Di Nittardi DOCG “Vigna Doghessa” 2021, Castellina

Campione: Single vineyard or cru example and a sample with the uncanny aromas resembling anise or black liquorice. No missing that as distinct as it gets and this despite the reductive nature of the wine. Needs several years to unwind. Not the finest tank or barrel sample drawn but there is some idea where this is gong. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Sangiovese with 10 percent canaiolo and colorino from the warm vintage down in quantity due to the April frosts, a year-plus spent in tonneaux followed by six months in bottle before release. That quantity was two-thirds of a normal production and concentration is surely above the norm in this 2021. Great acidity, highest level of the stuff and the fruit is ever-bearing ripe on the nose while tannins are overtly grippy and the wine needs another year in bottle to truly show its stuff. That said this will surely be the finest Annata from San Fabiano Calcinaia. Drink 2025-2031. February 2023 and February 2024

Tenute Squarcialupi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

From Castellina vineyards primarily west of the village in a gully shaped like a half-pipe amphitheatre, an amazing Chianti Classico microclimate that gives a special purpose to Tenute Squarcialupi’s sangiovese. Add in the next generation ideas of Cosimo Bojola and the torch passing is in transition. This is the classic, clean and traditional Annata that carries the stamp of Tommaso Bojola but in 2021 the connection with son Cosimo’s winemaking wisdom is closer than ever before. Tenute Squarcialupi 2021 Annata stands up linear, vertical and to be counted. It should not be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

Spices mark the aromatics, pique the senses, draw in the olfactory and take the stage. A force upon the palate, more spice circling through mouthfeel and some black cherry bitters clasp the finish. Traditional and serviceable to vintage. Last tasted February 2024

A reminder that the Ruspoli were a high aristocratic family from Rome though originally from Florence. The estate is co-owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and managed by Giulio Ruspoli since 1989. The 2021 Annata Classico is in fine shape, still chalky of tannins in the midst of its resolution and while it drinks well now (with some air), there are surely two to three years left for ongoing pleasure. Can’t see the fruit dissipating until late in 2026. Tasted January 2024

There are many, not all mind you but a great number of 2021 Chianti Classico in delivery of this silken, glycerol and so very modern character. That and a firm grip with high level acidity captured. A big wine this time from Lilliano, stylish, chic and strutting. Fruit set and connectivity are well aggregated though this won’t be one to age indefinitely. Drink in the near term. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cosimo and Tomasso Bojola – Tenuta Squarcialupi, Castellina

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2021, Castellina

“L’Alta” Annata for Squarcialupi is this amphora indiction of indication that is simply the brainchild of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola. Connected in a most familial way to the other Classico but texture and mouthfeel are altered, transformed and transmogrified in the most religious way. The piety is born of sangiovese passion, to see through an ulterior if respectfully concurrent lens and the result is something emphatically restrained. Brilliance of red fruit purity with an underlying earthiness and brightness that supports the textural movements. The palate is aroused and the senses are piqued. Impossible to look or taste away. Last tasted February 2024

Squarcialupi farms 33 Castellina hectares plus 10 in Maremma. Tommaso Bojola’s is the only cellar in the village of Castellina. His father in law purchased the land, building, enoteca, restaurant and aging cellar in 1980. From 2020 all the wines are organic. Aged in amphora for 11 months, all sangiovese on skins, the label hand drawn by Cosimo himself. The only Chianti Classico DOCG for which 100 percent comes out of amphora and Cosimo’s is anything but light and yes it’s a different style but there is nothing idiosyncratic about this wine whatsoever. Blood orange, tar and roses, just sticky enough to solicit palate attention and really just a pure expression of sangiovese. A melt of sweet clay, very Galestro mineral. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Indelibly stamped Carpineta style while so very fresh for 2021, truly bright of great breaths of Castelnuovo Berardenga air. Aged in tonneaux after cement fermentation and to say this was judged with fine precision would be paying close attention to Gioia Crest’s acumen and always consistent deft touch. Spot on for 2021 in so many respects. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wow the energy from 2021 Carpineta Fontalpino is off the charts, ergo there is this wide open sensation from Castelnuovo Berardenga that will not be denied. Fruit swells and impresses with its gingered-crimson beauty and the advances of egress by structural demand. While too youthful and awkward for all parts to hook up they will, in time, for all the right reasons and with zero regret. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big production of quality across the board, of fruit layered in a thousand ways, all working together for the most solid and qualitative expression of 100 percent sangiovese. Proper, correct and professional. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi – Losi Querciavalle, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: High-toned, lifted, Alberese directed, sauvage of aromatics on display. A nosing of volatile compounds which are often part of the sample experience and one not wholly indicative of what the settled and cleaned-up finished wine will be. Losi’s sangiovese are exceptional for Castelnuovo Berardenga and this gives little insight into what they can be. Tasted February 2024

Nicely settling in 2021 Annata from Arceno, compressing and compacting as it plays upon the palate, though underneath both acids and tannins continue to work their magic. These recent sangiovese (with 15 percent softening merlot) have found their rightful place on the Castelnuovo Beradenga spectrum. They are as clean, modern and generous as they come. Last tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A vintage for which merlot at 15 per cent does wonders to install calm and roundness into San Gusmé sangiovese of dusty, drifty and instigative tannin. There is a swirl of red to purple berry liqueur in this high glycerol content of an Annata to take Castelnuovo Berardenga into another stylistic and one not often reached. Modernized, renovated and refurbished. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The traditional estate blend, with canaiolo, colorino and ciliegiolo to compliment sangiovese. Two to three weeks of maceration, at the longer end from 2021 and for Gaiole this is just so Monti relatable with just about a 10 percent accent by Vagliagli within Castelnuovo Berardenga. Fine acidity for this Classico that hints at though stays quite clear of balsamico. Certified organic by Delineat, a private agro-forestry network now recognized by higher powers. The discipline includes solar work, carbon neutral footprint and lower levels of copper usage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2021, Gaiole

Bertinga’s is expressly Gaiole, verdant of its greens and clearly an expression off of rocky soils. You sense the land in the freshness and clarity of the sangiovese. Truly crispy and crunchy, mineral and tannin streaking simultaneously in parallel lines and length unrelenting for as long as the palate would wish to keep tasting the wine. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2021, Gaiole

Only sangiovese and about as obvious as a Gaiole UGA produced example as could ever be. The mix of dried herbals and forest brush, über savoury elements and drying tannins all add up to the tight and taut sort of Annata Classico so many know well. This must be cellared for a year our two before flesh and fruit pulpiness can be coaxed out of the structured shell. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casa Al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Closed and tart, tannins very much in the way and an awkwardness at this early stage. A must return no sooner than one year forward. Indicative of the perils of showing cask samples instead of finished wines. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Real Monti in Chianti fixture within the Gaiole UGA with 2021 measuring 95 percent sangiovese, (4%) malvasia nera and (1) colorino. Noticeably reductive, intensity of focus and a Monti verdant quality captured to express terroir and also nature. Sifted softness owning the palate but also piques of spice and endemic character. Clearly a step up in quality and complexity for this truly historical estate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

While the wines are really intense with extreme concentration there is some current difficulty to see them as pleasing. They remain a bit closed, especially on the nose but the potential for aging is great. Though it had been that way for some there were not great frost problems, Not just aromatic intensity but spice and attack on the palate, This strikes as something a bit difficult to drink at this time but the structure is surely impressive. This is Annata that would be Gran Selezione for at the very minimum another 150 estates. Last tasted February 2024

Extreme youth for a Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Annata and while this is a barrel sample truth is Luca Martini di Cigala’s offers up more fodder for assessment than many. This will be a most important vintage for two reasons. The first is quality and the second a matter of education, a view to master interpreter taking water (of Gaiole) and transforming it into wine. Not just Gaiole but a little peninsula between the arms of Vagiagli and Castelnuovo Berardenga on a promontory specific to San Giusto. Fine lines, angles and waves continually sweeping make this a most impressive Annata and one to savour for the next 15 years. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted February 2023

La Montanina Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

The work of Bruno Mazzoni whose maternal grandfather was producing wine here in Gaiole in the 1970s. Mazzoni started tarted in 2006 wth a rebuilding of the cellar, first produced Chianti Classico in 2012, but waited a few years to begin selling the wines. His 2021 is a new and very youthful vintage made by winemaker Maurizio Longi for a Chianti Classico that shows off the true character and nature of Gaiole sangiovese. Tension and yet a transparency because it’s a bit lighter (than say 2019 or 2016) but the potential for aging here is great. Crunchy and crisp, a wine you can grip between the teeth and bite down, then finishing with piques of energy and spice. This is a fine wine of purpose. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2021, Gaiole

Today Tenuta Perano has a distinct advantage and that is elevation. Ten years ago that would not have been said but 550m is no longer considered a cold altitude and so critics and consumers alike should no longer dismiss this place. At Perano the sangiovese matures on both ripeness fronts and does so at a markedly reduced crop per plant. Results are more than simply a matter and meter of concentration. Lamberto Frescobaldi notes how the Chianti Classico from this part of Gaiole are those of “severity and specificity, and it can be tasted in the wines.” It comes from agriculture and can’t be missed. That is if the winemaking is expressed with humility. The verdancy and freshness by elevation are Gaiole and they foil the substantial elements, namely fruit and tannin. All of this is raised to the highest degree in the Annata 2021. “Especially when the plantings are on cooler sites but you really have to be careful, to push the harvest later.” The conclusions are captured acidity and a lovely expression on the nose. “You may not like sangiovese,” concludes Frescobaldi, “but you will always be intrigued by it.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted December 2023

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Sangiovese with canaiolo and colorino of a deep Chianti Classico hue that Marco Ricasoli explains “is fixed by the Alberese. It’s the calcium in the limestone that really helps this process.” So different than sangiovese coming from Macigno (as a general rule) yet here the colour is full and opaque. Fresh vintage, substantial fruit, quantity high, all things a winemaker wants from Chianti Classico. Purity of aromas, linear of style, stony moments from start to finish. Just beginning to open up and really quite salty. Will surely see this last through the decade in a nearly primary state. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Surprising grip and structure here from Rocca di Montegrossi’s 2021 Annata, well not exactly shocking but this is a vintage wine quite far from readying towards release. Tannins are fine chained, grained, unbreakable and of a saltiness really connecting the mineral dots of this wine. Some canaiolo and colorino bring added seasoning and so sapidity is a thing. Crunchy for Gaiole and less herbaceous than most. Should begin to open in 18 months or so. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2021, Greve

Oxidative and a touch cooked in spite of acidity running high. Ample if decent fruit quality though it will travel quickly to where it needs to go. Drink as soon as possible. Tasted February 2024

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

Few (if any?) Chianti Classico sangiovese are augmented by the five percent mix of canaiolo and the rare canina nera, the latter of which has not been held with the greatest of reputation. Well, not since its popularity in the Middle Ages. Oft considered “a poor quality black grape that gives a terrible red wine with a dry and light flavour,” nevertheless here finding a way to elicit a positive effect. Winemaker Tim Manning has found the apex of excellence where fruit and acidity with that fineness of reduced sweet balsamic all meet and create a fine Chianti Classico 2021. Fine work no doubt. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2021, Greve

The three vineyards refer to Terreno’s Homefront Greve, across the ridge’s rift at Solano (also in Greve) and finally Montefioralle. This mix of three soils which includes Monte Morello, Pietraforte and Alberese makes for one of those Chianti Classico so well-rounded and thrice fortified. The palate senses three layers of stone bled sangiovese inter-connected yet here the air breezes through each and lifts it all together. Brava Sofia. You’ve found and created an ideal 2021. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Torraccia Di Presura Chianti Classico DOCG Il Tarocco 2021, Greve

Big fruitful sangiovese from Torraccia di Presura, rich and suave, clean as a wet sponge wiping chalk off a blackboard which feels apropos because this is quite opaque and pitchy Classico. Ever so smouldering and shadowy swarthiness is ideal to break up the textural silkiness and remind us that sangiovese from 2021 and Greve is want to keep us on our tasting toes. This has much to give and give it will for three to five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

The vintage is surely part of the equation but it’s almost impossible to believe that Lamole has come to this exquisite place. Perfumes as always present but tannins so very fine not just because of the sandstone but due to the maturity of the vines and the maker. Last tasted February 2024

Pure macigno (sandstone) terroir on terraces fully surrounded by woods and what is most essential in Filetta is the perfume that just has to come from Lamole. From 2021 a most proficient and promising one, an effortless exhale and a seamless transition to mimicry upon the palate. Well structured, so subtly chalky and a succulence meeting exuberance that is as much vintage as it is place. Freshness meeting concentration at the highest level. A complete vintage, needing not be compared to any other. We’ll think in these kinds of terms seven to 10 years down the road. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Pastrolo 2021, Lamole

The newest (along with San Leolino) of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, from Lamole and a vineyard with unique geology, that being Macigno di Marne, a.k.a marine sandstone. Youthful and the oak flavours still act as a flannel blanket over the fruit but insists Giovanni Manetti, “it remains a question of time.” Second vintage of this label and destined to be a Gran Selezione when time, commissioned grants and the realization of a plan all come together in collective fruition. Average planting was back in the late 1970s with newer plantations going in. There were some mixed varieties, including canaiolo, trebbiano, malvasia and colorino. Meanwhile this is sangiovese, grippy, firm, austere and as they say, molto profumato. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2021, Lamole

Aged only in concrete, “The sangiovese just to show the Lamole terroir,” tells Susanna. “The vineyards at the top do this best.” Which means this deserves to be on the label, no matter the appellative level. No appropriation here, just heritage. The perfume is the crux and heart of this matter. Acidity too, running through like a fast moving stream over pebbles, all of which are felt across the palate. Just ideal freshness, “the beauty of the simplicity,” adds Susanna. So pure. Last tasted February 2024

From the highest vineyard between 600 and 630m for a varietal sangiovese that separates itself from Olinto because that label holds 20 percent merlot, though 2021 will be the last vintage. From what Susann Grassi calls the “crispy” vintage” which translates as freshness incarnate and a crunchiness to the seriously spot on pure red fruit. This is so precise and the Lamole perfume exudes out of every pore. Only see concrete and at Annata level for Lamole that is the exact and proper thing to do. Brilliant. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Jurji Fiore e Figlia

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Puntodavista 2021, Lamole

All of Jurji Fiore’s cru wines are vinified in the same way, that being 18 months in Burgundian barriques, 30 percent new. Vines are 50-60 years old so surely not 100 percent sangiovese near to Grospoli. A field blend from a vineyard that Jurji has been renting for 30 years. His next gen daughter Sara smells chiodo di garofano which is, but is not clove, either way its a spice from a dried flower seed that scents out from this Annata. The palate is also wild and leaping with a moment of swarthiness yet is quite perfectly clean for top shelf, fresh and exciting sangiovese. As fine an Annata as there can be and so perfectly expressive of modern Lamole’s potential. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Nonloso 2021, Lamole

The only cru that’s for sure 100 percent sangiovese because it comes from 20 year-old vines and is owned by the same farmer as Puntodavista in the Grospoli area. Lamole range, 18 months in three sizes of Bourgogne barrels, 30 percent new. The darkest and most intense because of recent clones playing a prominent role as compared to the others, also because those are field blends and representative of the traditional ways of the blending past. Same wood and timing but everything is elevated here, strung up inside a casing of acidity and an austerity of tannins. A sangiovese that needs time, to settle, for subsequent vintages to grow up, mature and join the balance that both Porcacciamiseria and Puntodavista already show. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2021, Lamole

Podere Castellinuzza – Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

Upwards elevation even for Lamole, here between 550 and 600m on two exposures, one to the east and one to the north. In this sense we are looking at the cooler meeting higher sector and so expect a different, more evergreen type of savour to exaggerate the Lamole perfume in a wholly other way. Freshness incarnate, no wood, only cement aging for 20 months and a true authenticity about the expression. Really pure, if you appreciate the way. Classic, naked Lamole Classico. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With La Famiglia Cappellini – Castello di Verrazzano, Greve

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Chianti Classico 2021 is an example of that rare occasion when savoury, or what so many like to refer to as balsamico richness defines sangiovese. In this case an Annata of layered red citrus fruit pulled from a plethora of estate Greve-Montefioralle sources, including several vineyards trained to Alberello. A heightened aromatic example for the vintage, balanced and delicate. Low quantity and highest of quality. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Chianti Classico DOCG Altolà 2021, Montefioralle

Altolà, high elevation but from another UGA over there (that being across the valley in Montefioralle), but also a definition for the phrase “stop right there, at attention.” Another Villages wine but the paradox here is how the vineyard was in Panzano and after the UGA was created it fell under the auspices of Montefioralle. Clay soil with Pietraforte so very typically Panzano, darker of colour, fleshy, but with a fire touch. Closer to Nonloso than any of the other Lamole wines but here you have an old vineyard with other red varieties in the field mix. This is an incredible mix of the two, fleshy and rich yet lifted and elevated of incredibly sweet acids. Wow for a first vintage and so one can only imagine what’s to come. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Maurizio Brogioni Winery Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Just a healthy splash of early ripening merlot softens and sweetens the Montefioralle sangiovese for a clean, technically sound and in its finest moments, also soulful Chianti Classico. Plenty of barrel involved, creating a resinous and soya sauced effect but fruit is bold, strong and able to handle the wood. Works out in the end though caramelization is coming soon. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Montefioralle wines

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Some heat in the ’21 perfumes but also a spice cupboard of exotics sifted into a masala as seasoning for seriously ripe sangiovese fruit. The six plus four percent of canaiolo and colorino are not to be forgotten because like the spices they are stirred and integrated so very well for a fully emulsified Annata. There is some lift and then piques of volatility which add to the warmth and the mystique. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Montefioralle

Crispy sangiovese with a soft middle provided by five percent merlot and a fine example of suave 2021 Montefioralle Chianti Classico. Rich and the sort you can sink your teeth into for pairing with proteins of equal steading. ‘Tis a healthy and substantial Annata no matter how you slice, braise or roast it. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Bonafide 2021 and exemplary varietal sangiovese from Panzano’s Cafaggio if one of the fleshier, riper and more glycerol examples. Tart and intense, acidity equal and opposing that fruit to carry forward all the way through. No hole or mid-palate fatigue but all in, all the time. A drink now and soon Annata with swagger and style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2021, Panzano

Small production of the etichetta label called Burrone, a gulch or a gully and the feel of gravity’s pull compresses to see this 100 percent sangiovese lay low in that depression. Not weighty per se but yet set in the lower reaches of brightness and energy. It’s a style for one that will age for a few years still. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Always tasted second to Filetta and though perhaps 10 years ago that may have been the opposite the change has come. Truly salty veins running through the flesh of Panzano, with thanks to the mix of schist, calcaire and the great power of Pietraforte stone. Hold this 2021 for another year. Last tasted February 2024

Like the Filetta di Lamole, the Panzano Classico was also bottled quite recently and is to be released in the Spring of 2024. A full on expression of the Classico for Fontodi from a vintage of everything; substantial fruit, quality and quantity, acidity at peak, generosity and potential. What more does there need to be? About as full and classic as it gets for this stalwart and even just that wee bit of Panzano swarthiness that give these sangiovese their intrinsic and inherent character. Caught with spot on simplicity and poise. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2021, Panzano

A factor of the blue schist makes the call for amphora and if your mind is open and imagination runs loose then believe that the perfumes and flavours are truly connected to the soil. Leathery chew with infiltrate freshness, cake and chalk, tannin and acidity. Spices run amok. Everything captured and preserved, life still laid out long ahead. Just a bit of residual CO2 wards ofd oxidation and allows for lower sulphites usage. Last tasted February 2024

The Chianti Classico that sees amphora, stainless steel and also French wood – but no Slavonian oak. The outlier and if it needs be said, the experimental Annata. That said it has evolved from its IGT (Toscana Centrale) origins and the soils are Pietraforte in this specific micro-climate (a cooler one) from which finer and dustier tannins come away. More about texture in Dino but this is also a bit of a crooner expressive of songs sung from its valley origins. Not a frost zone because it buds later and at harvest time there is the diurnal fluctuation from 30 degrees by day to 10 at night. Great but different acidity from Dino, sweeter but also a balsamic aspect. Unique Classico in every respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2021

Three terroir collection of Gagliole’s youngest vineyards across their estates, a macro of balancing related to soils built on Alberese, Pietraforte and Galestro. Brings all elements to the table; phenols, dusty savour and a mix of Classico acidities. In this vintage the pick was relatively late (especially in Panzano), as late as October 21 and 22. A management of vineyards leads to a capture of freshness so essential for the Annata level of Chianti Classico. Gagliole gets it in the most croccante way. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Rubiolo is 100 per cent sangiovese and Panzano fruit from 400-plus meters of elevation above and to the west side of the Conca d’Oro. Expressive of the two factions of Panzano character, texture and savour. Silky smooth liquidity and more accessible than what might have been pre-conceived though there is surely no lack of grip emanating through the cool ooze of this wine. Really quite fine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

No, 2021 is not readying for the open window. Not yet. The tannins are still chalky and firm, the fruit bright and clean but they still submit to the tight clasp that grips and holds. No lacking for flesh and weight but yes the crisp character is what we are waiting for. Last tasted February 2024

A low (450 quintale or 45,000 kg) production vintage due to April frosts though the quality was very high. Is 2021 the best I ask Iacopo Morganti.“Every time the last one has to be the best one…though 2021 is like 2001. Similar vintage, weather included but there was more production from 2001.” The style is similar, also colour of fruit, elegance, light and ethereal with purposed acidity. “In 2020 the fruit was darker, you feel more oak,” he adds. These ‘21s are typical wines as and for sangiovese. Pure, light and so elegant, bottled on the 21st of September. Hard to find a more amenably front-ended Chianti Classico but the tannins are still somewhat aggressive. Not Riserva in that sense because there is less flesh and body. Still this is a discreetly charming 2021 and a great wine to drink, whenever you feel ready. Aging will be somewhere between six and nine years, give or take and depending on the situation. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

This is truly a preview of the Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2021 because this is the vintage that will be poured at the Chianti Classico Collection held in Florence on February 15th and 16th. When frost struck the area on April 6th and 7th, 2021 Vicky Schmitt-Vitali said “Le Fonti is positioned quite open to the winds so most vineyards fared OK with the frost. Only one small patch protected by trees and bamboo at the bottom of the valley got freeze-burned. The other side of the valley got hit worse so we have to be grateful. Lucarelli (the small village in Radda just below Panzano) is always very cold and our tractor driver lives there and said that his house was minus six the past few nights. All fruit trees burned but his vines had not been out yet so he was lucky.” The result here is a top notch, clean, fresh and harmonious Annata that also happens to be a sangiovese of higher quantity than many out of the vintage. The acids here are just about perfect and the flavours are as enticing as they are diverse. Without a doubt one of the finest Chianti Classico ever made by Guido and Vicky at this appellative level. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted January and February 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Cosimo and Sebastiano Gericke – Fattoria Rignana, Panzano

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just a small amount of April frost damage happened in the lower part of the vineyards near the Pesa River but the rest of the higher reaches were unscathed and so quantity out of ’21 was fine, while quality ran high. Just stainless and concrete (no wood) for a truly fresh and sustainable Annata. The 15 percent canaiolo adds a dimension of sapidity as balance to what sensations high acid and saline sangiovese are want to deliver. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Beautifully settled sangiovese with that quick sapid kick urged on by five percent canaiolo. A lovely swirl of fresh and clean red fruit, unmistakable glycerol, late arriving acidity and nearly resolved tannin. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2021, Radda

Taken from the largest parcel up the hill to the right of the church and no wood involved. Soft and suave, the silkiest Annata imaginable and one that coats the palate with its substantial fruit. Perfume and spice are Raddese, as is acidity, of course. Last tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Intense sangiovese while also drying and tannic with potential to travel far and yet this is certainly not the early beauty of what came from 2020. More so a sangiovese of classicism that must have some time in the bottle before we know what will come. Great length here so there will be a future, that much is guaranteed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Borgo La Stella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Quiet entry, reserved and not exceptionally fruity though a feeling of a place lurks in the shadows. Fresh, bright, clean and high acid. Not particularly fleshy, of lightning red fruit and satisfying. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Pure sangiovese, tiny production, tart, concentrated, verging on syrupy. Intensity of acidity and balsamico, a Radda stylistic magnified and hyperbolized for the world to see. Heart and sangiovese worn on sleeve. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Darker fruit adoration for the vintage owning to Castello di Radda’s south-central location within the UGA and the accumulation is duly noted. Levels of richness and yet this singsong quality that creates waves of fruit in and out of mild structure. Not the grippiest of ‘21s but one to enjoy in the near term. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Classic Colle Bereto Annata, more estate style than Radda which is not a massive shock from the vintage. Clean, crisp and what can be thought upon as crispy, no departure from the UGA in that regard but the precision and clarity is expressly Colle Bereto. Grande, Bernardo Bianchi. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Belvedere Campòli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

As far as bottle quantities are concerned this is a tiny production of Classico sangiovese (with five percent) merlot. One that delivers naturally sweet red fruit and true succulence by way of equally delivered acidity yet without tension due ti never demanding tannin. Ever the slightest cherry bitters that dissipate in fade to finish black. What’s left is purity and grace. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

With Federica Capaccioli

Capaccioli – Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Dramatic and vivid Annata from San Casciano with all the wilds of soil, herbs, brushy plants and florals flying from the glass. The air is filled with orchids, violets, Macchia Mediterraneo, sweet sangiovese, Cassis bled cabernet and sapidity raising canaiolo. Top effort for the UGA with ample vintage personality. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Casa Di Monte Chianti Classico DOCG Le Capitozze 2021, San Casciano

A 2021 and so a well and good finished wine not so long ago put to bottle but still reactive and closed beneath a hard structured shell. Full vintage fruit and acidity captured no doubt if still a challenge to access because of extreme youth. Full disbursement of great potential lays ahead. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico DOCG Clemente VII 2021, San Casciano

Nicely settled and so a wise decision to pour 2022 for the anteprima. Can’t miss the rye bread toast and verdant streak for a Clemente VII of more substance and rallying cry than many. Professional tannins present in the room are tied by acidity as catalyst and bind. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Cigliano di Sopra Vigneti Branca ready for labelling

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2021, San Casciano

A single vineyard, 100 percent whole bunch, 35 days on skins macerated best parcel (of massal selection planted in 1972) sangiovese that is the first true experiment in the young winemaking lives for Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari. Reminds of the Annata in that transparency, purity and focus are all there but imagine more energy, vibrancy, power, grip and intensified, implosive tannins. And yet, and yet the push here is just a bit overarching because a minor note of green austerity does arrive, however fleeting it may be. Nevertheless this is the summit of the current pinnacle of the duo’s CdS success. Next is to see how they will go next level, because when the going gets “maniaci,” the “maniaci” turn pro. Bottled on April 14th, 2023. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Spicy aromatics lead the way for La Sala’s ’21 Annata, nothing unusual about it, consistent with previous vintages and the estate’s search for aromatics. What separates this vintage is the fulsome and glissade quality gracing the palate that presents more fruit in waves, swells and even this oozing kind of feeling that sangiovese can give. San Casciano gets neither more fruity nor modern in Annata than this. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2021, San Casciano

At this stage the ‘21 has now arrived as the finished wine it was intended to be. Hard to believe how much textural glissade, unction and modernity have accumulated in the wines of San Casciano with this by Mori Concetta right at the top of the list. Aromatically charged and perfumed with viscosity of fruit on the palate and liquid spice. Impressive 2021 from the man. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a compliment of other endemic grapes not only aid and abet but work so properly too create cohesion and define this special Classico from San Casciano. The breakdown of 80 percent sangiovese, (10) canaiolo, (5 each) pugnitello and colorino is essential and creates a balanced 2021, of less tension than some but also pure without greens or greys mired in the void. A very successful and textured wine of silk and chalkiness for seven to ten years ahead. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Youthful to a great degree and a reductive vintage for the Monsanto Annata, still frozen in time with the classic località aromatics lurking in the shadows of this wholly structural wine. Always the small percentages of canaiolo an colorino bringing the sapidity and also the energy to sangiovese that feels like it’s always been this way. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

High tonality, glycerin, volatility and perilously up there at the edge of the precipice. There is some Brettanomyces in this 2021, nothing that distracts or detracts with any gravity but it does co-exist with the fruit. Chewy mouthful for varietal sangiovese of warmth and intensity that will improve with age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

“So far 2021 is the one that gives me more pleasure, with more complexity and density, even more than 2021.” Now well into his tenure and so Robin Mugnaini has a pretty keen sense of where he’s at with respect to Chianti Classico. Still 20 percent whole bunch and two moths on skins, to be released in a year and a half. Really clean, fruit at the top of this San Donato in Poggio game and purity as verity. These are powdery tannins trying to liquify and integrate but it really is just a kid. Richer than any that have come before and of a structure that will see this travel for a few years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG Il Classico 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Celebratory vintage fruit swirl arrives first for Il Poggiolino and then to mind comes the character that is intrinsically perceived as San Donato in Poggio. Of red fruit so amplified you’d think citrus was squeezed, calcareous stone was bled and the mixture reduced to a glissade of syrup. Just a quick note of Brett in the 2021, nothing serious or distracting but there it resides on the back palate. Does not mess with the tannins but there is a peppery warmth at the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four and a half decade tenure at Isole e Olena is this 2021, lower in sangiovese and conversely higher in canaiolo, because he knew the blend needed to up its sapidity game. The canaiolo raises pH and works with the other splashes (including syrah but also vials of mystery) to elaborate and elevate sangiovese’s salted-elemental game. De Marchi has hit the vintage nail on the head with a 2021 that shows its cards but refuses to lay them on the table. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist. He is the whooper swan and you pay close attention to the trumpets of fruit and clicks of acidity. Before too long the sounds will cease because there will be no more tannic threats and so both this 2021 and Paolo will move, embrace change and live on. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another matter for San Donato in Poggio and 2021 is this by Podere La Cappella because there is a sleekness and silken quality to the fruit. This is especially felt in the mouthfeel because the wine simply glides and slides across the palate. You can also feel the merlot in 2021, only 10 percent but so ripe and impressionable. Plenty of sweet and supportive acidity, fineness of tannins and just so much pleasure gifted overall. Not as structured as some recent vintages but seductive for the short to mid term. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Davaz Family – Poggio al Sole, San Donato in Poggio

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Poggio al Sole’s is Chianti Classico Annata aged in large format Stockinger Botti comes from a crossroads where San Donato in Poggio, Panzano plus a distinct profile that also draws from Badia a Passignano add up to one of the territory’s most complex sangiovese. An example with 90 percent sangiovese and (10) canaiolo that exhibits both salty and sapid elements for something that moves through many machinations. This is not to say that the extroverted PaS lacks precision because it is in fact finessed and pure, but there is so much going on that at moments its feels like energy running wild. Never thee mind because just another year and a half in bottle will see to all parts settling in as one. What Valentino Davaz calls “the business card,” accounting for half of the production in 2021. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2021, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample from 2021 and this Ghirlanda is brighter, fresher and airier than its predecessor, but the bones and the verticality remain. The lift and high tone elevate a sangiovese that misses and wants for nothing, in fact it is so perfectly comfortable in its pliable if ageless skin. Annata worthy of a long life and treated with this level of respect which is incidentally incredible considering the other levels of Chianti Classic made at Bindi Sergardi. In any case this will quickly become brilliant Chianti Classico at the Annata level. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Indelibly stamped by Vagliagli and impressively consistent Annata from the Gnudi-Angelini family. May seem like a large bottle output at 170,000 but that is nothing compared to what it could be (without frost vintages) and in relation to other truly large production (a.k.a. commercial) wines. Nothing of the sort here but simply pure Chianti Classico softened and made colourful by five percent each merlot and colorino. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Complicità Chianti Classico DOCG Assolo 2021, Vagliagli

A small and protective amount of reduction which helps in dramatic ways because this Vagliagli Annata comes at the palate in waves. Fruit for the most part with underlying spice but do not sleep on the sneaky structure of this Assolo by upstart Complicità. Complicated in the ways of complexity and variegation, aromatically stunning and then intricately woven with flavours and palate textures. A discovery of the highest order. Terrific work for sangiovese that feels like sangiovese born of a family and their land. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole, Vagliagli

Dievole Chianti Classico Docg 2021, Vagliagli

Classic croccante sangiovese, rich if also herbal and brushy, a liqueur of red fruit that crunches when bitten. “The soul of Dievole,” says Stefano Capurso, representing the 700 hectares and 10-15 percent of that being vineyards predominated by sangiovese. Fermented in conical concrete (75 hL) and aged in botti only, no tonneaux nor barriques neither. A mix of all the terroirs and a philosophy led by agronomist Lorenzo Bertini that places soils microbes for maximum vineyard health to make sure roots dip deep for stones in touch with water. The land is a geological mix of Monte Morello and Macigno del Chianti (Sandstone), of clay, Alberese and Pietraforte. A combination of everything and the result is one of the most well-rounded Annata to be found anywhere in the territory. Do not hesitate because these sweet tannins and refreshing spice make 2021 ready for action. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Vagliagli

Heady perfume so very Vagliagli but also the extras that five percent each colorino and merlot are want to deliver and infiltrate the sangiovese. Crunchy exterior and conversely chewy inside, like liquorice or al dente spaghetti with moderate structure for a few years of life though the best months have already begun. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castellina

Noting a change in direction with this juicy and fruit-centric sangiovese with five percent canaiolo that lowers the salty factor that is always a consistent part of Sparviero’s character. Wood not much of a factor to allow the freshness to shine, even out of a warm vintage that in many cases produced very dense wines. Not here and the final clocking is 13.5 percent alcohol. Last tasted May 2024

Canaiolo is used to augment sangiovese and here the five percent matters for the Annata from Casale dello Sparviero. Helps to distract from the barrel but then it seems the overall sentiment is wood and seasoning because the aridity is truly felt at all points on the palate. Needs time and yet the fruit will struggle to survive. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Baldoni Villa Rosa 2020, Castellina

Ribaldoni is the name of the river and thus the vineyard laid below and around Villa Rosa. A sangiovese expression of its own, combining the scorrevole of SdF and the croccante of Primecolle. An ideal and balanced mix in what is the most layered and combinative of the three, powerful yet restrained and still in a place that feels a few years away from settling in. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2024

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness. Tasted February 2024

Borratella Chianti Classico DOCG Insuella 2020, Gaiole

Quite upfront fruit, naturally sweet and teeming with red berries, nary a moment of tart or tang, soft and getable. The five percent cabernet sauvignon so very ripe in 2020 may have played a bigger part than its addendum might have suggested but there is no shortage of ease and playfulness in this ready to go Annata. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

The 2020 Perano has arrived, showing know what it was once shy to do. Perano is at its juiciest and gifted height, crunchy of fruit still fresh, poised and in control, now into the best the two three years to express its Gaiole character. Last tasted February 2024

You can always feel the white soil of Tenuta Perano and nowhere more so than from Annata level Chianti Classico. More than sangiovese with 10 percent merlot and (5) cabernet sauvignon for a silky smooth 2020 that wants to share its impression as early as it can. Cool and sappy, easy to understand and professional as they come. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Lamole

Notable Brett for Castellinuzza 2020, perhaps a sluggish transition to malolactic being the catalyst to seeing the microbes creep in. Good glycerol in the fruit, rich and calming nature noted for the 95 sangiovese with (3) canaiolo and (2) malvasia nera. Lamole perfume surely captured and so will deliver great appeal to those who can handle a little bit of naturally winking truth in their Chianti Classico. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2020, Lamole

From the lower vineyard which means old vines at 550m, inclusive of a majority that are vines dating back to 1965. A mix of sangiovese (90 percent) and canaiolo, though there are some white grapes growing in the vineyard. Aging 50-50 in concrete and 500L French tonneaux for one year. “A very important vintage for us because it was the 400th anniversary of my family,” says Susanna Grassi, but no celebrations due to Covid, just a special bottling as Gran Selezione instead. Bouquet, acidity and though “lower” elevation for Lamole this is sangiovese that more than easily and credibly maintains the origins of Lamole. The bigger divergence here is vine age and so aromatic concentration is heightened, not necessarily freshness and brightness because this feels like a Lamole of more depth and breadth, but let’s be real. As fas as Chianti Classico are concerned this is about as fresh and crispy as it gets. Last tasted February 2024

The adage must always be repeated. The perfume of Lamole is omnipresent, all-pervasive and impossible to separate from the wines themselves. How and why? The answer is difficult to articulate though it is surely a response to the Macigno soils and the climate circulating in the UGA’s amphitheatre. Stand anywhere on the ring road between Casole and Lamole village and you may just feel as though you are in a rainforest. The sandstones mixed with calcareous rock just has to mean mineral transferral onto fruit that in turn scents floral. Not in the classic bouquet of flowers sense but as an example it is Terra di Lamole by Susanna Grassi that makes all this happen. Behold a sangiovese born in the shadow of the Monti del Chianti that shines in its own special way. Terra di Lamole – the land of the UGA, definite, elegant and full of grace. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2023

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Casaloste is Panzano but truth is Casaloste is Casaloste. The oenological and passion project work of Giovanni d’Orsi, self made, self-imposed and critically honest if also loving to work with sangiovese. The 10 percent merlot softens the seriousness and trenchant intention of Chianti Classico that as a wine can’t help but express the extensiveness and also the simple truth that is 2020. Bigger, darker and more intrinsic tannic value but truth is truth and Casaloste’s lets in the light. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

The uncanny note of chocolate mint is there, unequivocally and especially upon the palate. On the nose as well as a reurn to the first addendum to the serious glycerols that thicken and silken the palate. There are many who will see and crave the seduction while others will feel too much wood. In the end and several years forward neither will matter and the wine will deliver a fine sense of harmony. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Panzano

Tasted side by each with the 2019 there can be no missing the darker hue, stronger fruit and bolder notes sung by Vecchie Terre di Montefili’s 2020. It’s the vintage and also Panzano that create the unavoidable, each as forceful and imposing as the other. Then agin the trilogy of terroir, weather and place are intrinsic to the sangiovese that arrive each and every season. Big wine, tannins equal to the task and yet evolution will happen faster than 2019. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Cement vat spontaneous fermentation (always done this way, manufactured in Val d’Arno, now 53 years old) for 100 percent sangiovese. Warm summer vintage but for Caparsa at 400-450m still very fresh and well, classic. In a perfect window of opportunity at this moment. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

The 2020 Classico is currently on the market while the soon to be bottled ’21 shows as an anteprima though that vintage, as firm and grippy as it may be will entice and delight sooner than most. In fact the 2020 is in nearly the same kind of place and so this tells us that. Monterinaldi’s position in Radda and microclimate produce wines like no other. Their wines move like the turtle, aging low and slow, even if they showed up ready and willing from the start. For Monterinaldi there was no hydric stress and the growing season delivered a consistent and constant five month phenolic development. This was a 35-40 day skin-contract maturation without worrying about extracting green tannins. Only six to seven months of aging in wood and this all adds up to doing things differently than many neighbours and other UGA positioned estates. Last tasted February 2023

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda location. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it can’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a candidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2022

Cortedomina Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Lean, angular and tart, middle palate filled in and softened by 20 percent merlot. Not really tannic per se and easily ready for consumption. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

Every year we take the fruit from the three vineyards and say, which one is the most Radda,” says Giacomo Castellani. Not necessarily the best one but the one that is most representative of Radda. The plots are Ginestraia and Olmo marked by stony terroirs of Pietraforte, Macigno and Pietraforte again, highest, mid-slope and in the newest vineyard. Lithe, transparent, ethereal and so floral. A sangiovese in which the sweet natural fruit and also acidity are seamless, together, one in the same. Don’t come here looking for musculature or verticality – that is not this Annata. This is the sangiovese you want to have a second glass and truthfully the bottle will easily disappear. Last tasted May 2024

Raddese from the start, acids singing, zinging and slinging the lightning red fruit to the fore. In youth clearly dusty while a clarity and purity exists in a vacuum where lightness mixed with barrel make for a truly spirited Chianti Classico. Expressly and dutifully Radda sangiovese. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Radda

A blend of parcels, many 25-30 years of age. Was a great spring during lockdown, long, sunny, pure through April and then suddenly cool and rainy in May. Then what followed was a variable, unsteady summer. Not the most equilibrium with late September cold and rain. Some difficulty in the selection because of differences in ripening. What does all that adversity, especially as it pertains to Radda add up to? Well, for one thing Roberto Bianchi’s Annata ’21 smells and tastes like Radda, transparent in its openness, cool, herbal and savoury. Truly, expressly, ostensibly and allegedly Radda with sangiovese born and raised in a very specific, high elevation part of Chianti Classico. Definitive, Macigno-stony and age-worthy, if not the fleshiest of them all. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Poggio Torselli Il Contadino Cusano Chianti Classico DOCG 202o, San Casciano

Big fruit year and a sangiovese with 15 percent merlot (which also happened in 2015 and 2016). Chewy and with some stewed if also drying character that old barriques and the merlot conspired to deliver from a hot and bold vintage. This ’20 is already turning the corner into its next phase. Drink up! Tasted February 2024

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Truly low production for varietal San Donato in Poggio sangiovese and the warmth of 2020 juices the full extraction of blood orange for distinctive Chianti Classico. Pressed for success, macerated to gauge interest with all parts fulsome at the intersect of acid and tannin. Wait six months and drink for two more years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Casa Sola Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

The blend is 90 percent sangiovese with (4 each) canaiolo and cabernet sauvignon pus (2) merlot. This mélange of grapes augments sangiovese but you simply can’t take the San Donato in Poggio soil and climate from out of this Annata. Warming and blood orange juiced, as sanguine as they come though neither hearty nor gamey. Crispy sangiovese, tart and high acid, classically styled of tradition and sense of place. San Donato as a UGA is the ace up the sleeve and time is needed to integrate the grapes and structural parts. Great strides taken from this estate. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Clearly and in this regard also distinctly San Donato in Poggio if edging towards the wood spiced and herbal side of the UGA. Yet another blood orange vintage and this is more than merely a trend, here a 2020 well macerated seemingly for two plus weeks or more to come away with this grand textural wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

The Sommeliers of the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Chianti Classico DOCG (Older Vintages)

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Imagine the baseline and then the ceiling for Chianti Classico. Draw from as much experience as you have and then extrapolate towards the greatest of a vintage’s potential. Then put your nose into Castell’In Villa 2019. Everything rises to the surface and presents itself to be noticed. Note the calm, the precision and finesse, reach out and touch the fruit, recognize the quality and fitness of the acidity and realize potential, compounded in understanding after allowing the purity of the sangiovese to rest upon the palate. As near perfect and essential as it gets for Castell’In Villa without boundaries or limitations. Last tasted February 2024

Leave to Castell’in Villa to do not just the right thing but carry the weight of necessity and hold back Annata to a point where it can be tasted and assessed with the respect it so richly deserves. Though this Castelnuovo Berardenga estate and their historic vineyards are equipped to create magic in the most challenging of vintages, well when a season like 2019 is gifted then the magic turns to the supernatural. Fruit is everything, as it must be and the aspects of climate, fermentation, maturation and all the accruements of seasoning add up to a speciality as no other Chianti Classico will create. This is a very special vintage of Castell’in Villa and one to rival any Riserva or Gran Selezione made in this vintage. Will live in infamy. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted February 2023

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2019, Lamole

Surprisingly tannic, still in a state of structural fortification. Though the predominance of crispy sangiovese is what occupies our thoughts the rocks and stones are by far the strongest players. Last tasted February 2024

The top “tier” Annata in Susanna Fabbri’s range is this main terroir sangiovese, the Terre di Lamole. Lamole at heights, in hyperbole, expressive and of course, so very perfumed. A veritable potpourri of Macigno del Chianti and all the florals imagined, tied up in one red petalled, native herb and mineral bouquet. Grace and understated charm, seamlessness and the sort of structure that build and builds but does so without mortar between the stones. Natural and beautiful. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted March 2022

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Chianti Classico DOCG 2019, Panzano

Can’t miss the terroir, bosco and micro-climate in the 2019 varietal sangiovese by Vecchie Terre di Montefili. In fact the troika comes to one decision, effect and result for a verdant and silken Annata that speaks to the ease and fullness of the vintage. Just that correct amount of swarthiness and verdancy, an evergreen streak and fineness of acidity that are purely and unequivocally Panzano. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Carus Vini Chianti Classico DOCG Baldéro 2019, San Casciano

Showing some maturity or rather this sangiovese has matured to a point where the producer is comfortable with its release. May be 2019 and so not a true 2024 anteprima but instead an Annata that has shed its shackles to now be expressive of its San Casciano origins. Balanced in mid weight, tart blood orange juiciness and no lack for shilling a high level of continuing grip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Casanova 2019, Vagliagli

The first of three sangiovese under the auspices of the cru project to feature the sensitivity of the variety to different soil conditions. The sensation gained on the nose from Casanova is something very red, part fruit and part mineral from a Macigno soil. Makes for a gentle, restrained and finessed Classico, “reminding me of the sangiovese made in the 1980s” remembers Stefano Capurso. Blood orange bled from clay, linear as a factor of the stones in the small 2.5 hectare sandy vineyard and easy in terms of concentration. A lovely mid-term ager as a pure cru-focused sangiovese. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Catignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a round hill of 20 hectares facing full south, direction Siena. Calcareous Monte Morello soils with the clays and a windy place. A place of slow maturation where warm days and cold nights alternate. A different expression especially as compared to the Casanova, bigger, broader and yet spicy, of dusty and balsamico acidity. Plenty of lift here and it announces itself with a much noisier voice while the palate is richer and the texture thickens upon the palate. Second vintage of this cru, just about ready to go with only six months or so needed to get there. A bit austere, more so than Casanova and Petrignano. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2019, Vagliagli

From a vineyard at 350m, fully on Monte Morello formations, dual hillside site with Alberese more to one side and so there are two sides of this wine. Made in the same way as the other two Classico cru, from oak tanks to botti. Of the three cru wines it is Petrignano that holds the most concentration beautifully offset by high ranking and very sweet acidity. It feels like Petrignano is the one to pour for a consumer who wants these layers of complexity and richness. Holding its form quite well. Last tasted February 2024

Petrignano is what Dievole assigns the lede of “a nuova voce del Chianti Classico,” a new voice, especially at the Annata level. The Gran Selezione is from Vigna Sessina and here 2019 is spoken through the younger vines and more precocious if not fully yet understood vineyard of Petrignano. Certainly a fresh and savoury Annata, sour citrus chalky and very primary. Almost nouveau but without the carbonic yet still this is as light and potentially sumptuous as it gets. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted February 2022

Bucciarelli Antico Podere Casanova Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Reductive and conversely yet also complementary traditional, of mature fruit subjected to early oxidation as a protection against hasty advancement and then retreat. Bucciarelli’s pure sangiovese does in fact exist in a vacuum with elevated volatile acidity and a modicum of Brettnomyces though neither push the limits of danger. No in fact this 2018 is Chianti Classico so well structured to defy age and see aging as a necessary condition for what it shall become. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Sophie Conte – Tregole

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Castellina

Third vintage for Sophie Conte’s Annata from a wet and challenging year because of clement weather and disease pressure. Cement ferment followed by barriques (already quite old) and also tonneaux, for a year. Leaner yet just about as rigid still, as noted in the 2016. Consistent with 2016, wood on top, toasty, of orange skin, citrus and wet stone that sangiovese will show in certain vintages. Still pretty tannic and again, really curious to taste when you consider how much will have been learned and changed by the time Sophie Conte gets to 2022. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, Panzano

Not the greatest of vintages, especially at harvest and Dario Faccin has known this, but his opinion has changed after a few years of aging. Like 1996 (especially compared to 1997) and namely because the tannins are persistently fresh. A slowed down maturation in September and into October is the reason. Yes it was warm every day and yet cold at night and yes there is some maturity to the fruit but the tannins are so refined. Aging in big botti has only helped these beautifully soft tannic sensations gained on the palate. Acidity kept and balance afforded for a great result. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage of pure sapidity for Carobbio and Panzano, namely because of the late warm vintage conditions mediated by cold nights but mainly due to humidity through mineral accumulation in Galestro soils with shards here and there of Calcari and Pietraforte. Length is Cariobbio length, seemingly never-ending, glorious and rising. Grande Dario and team, this 2018 will live as long as any Annata in the territory. Vintages from the 80s, 90s and also those early in this decade have paved the road for an Annata like 2018 to live a very long life. Tasted May 2023

Then comes along Carobbio with a wine older than almost any other Annata in the collection and yet even from 2018 this sangiovese has yet to hit its stride. Dark fruit of baritone voice and depth puts this in unique territory and it would seem the grapes were mainly picked later, after the two day heat spike at September’s culmination. That said low nighttime temps kept the acidity and so 2018 from Carobbio should age as well as any Riserva and many Gran Selezione from the vintage. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

La Querce Seconda Chianti Classico DOCG 2018, San Casciano

High level aromatic vintage for La Querce Seconda’s Annata 2018 because of heat accumulated through many days of temperature adding up to this. Major lift and smoulder but also a small percentage of Brettanomyces. A bit distracting to be honest but all is fair in love, war, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2016, Castellina

First real vintage for Sophie Conte, no temperature control and longer (20 day) fermentation than what’s happening today. Cement, followed by barriques (already quite old). Holding court and hanging well though you can feel the wood. The notes are balsamico, liquorice and chewy leathery fruit and the wine is clearly more interesting now than it would have been in its early years. “Pouring you this wine is like showing you a picture of myself in high school. It’s a little bit weird,” says Sophie. Regardless the DNA of sangiovese grown at Tregole is what the picture shows. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castellaccio Chianti Classico DOCG Coste Di Felice 2016, Greve

Bruised and oxidized. Tasted February 2024

I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2012, Lamole

“What I remember is a nice harvest in Lamole,” says Susanna Grassi. “A regular vintage.” Aromas are mature and the palate is über fresh, full of energy, revitalizing for sipping and also expressive of the Lamole perfume. Cool, ethereal, ever so slightly salt-inflected and purposefully proper. An expression of culture and the story of old vines in an old vineyard. With a wedge of aged Parmigiana from a special breed of cow there become this exotic mix of acids and cultures that bring it all together. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOC 1969

DOC World: The annunciation of a document eventually to become the DOC; the Chianti wine famous worldwide. Just 356 years after the height of Niccola Capponi’s life and a time when the “Modo di Fare Il Vino Alla Franzese” was the winemaking order of that day in Firenze. Sixty years after Torquato Guarducci and the announcement that quality mattered little for merchants, so long as the bottle said “Chianti.” Piero Capponi was at the lead of changing this and was one of the 33 producers that created the consortium in 1924. Eight years later in 1932 the “Classico” is added, to distinguish the original Chianti delimited by Cosimo de Medici in 1716. Full on mushroom consomée at this stage 55 years after vintage, a porcini broth with drops of citrus and so fully balsamico-forest floor. Smells like chestnuts and yes the 50,000 bottles produced were fermented in chestnut wood vats. Can’t miss the linger of natural sweetness. As for the grapes involved, well that’s open to interpretation, especially considering some various red and white grapes were surely involved, including those from vines put in that had recently arrived from the Florence nursery without labels (due to flooding). Never mind because the acidity and persistence without absolute death is so bloody impressive for a Chianti Classico from 1969. Tasted May 2024

Dinner at Fizzano, Rocca delle Macíe

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Though 2022 is such a fine, amenable and drinkable vintage and 2021 more compacted in so many ways – well when you make a cuvée of all your Castellina estates and choose only the finer grapes – you can make a very proper and promising Riserva. Cool, just a kiss of wood and saltiness, violets and a bit of rounding softness from cabernet sauvignon. Sees 12-14 months in barrel and comes away rich, nurturing and silky smooth. For now and a few years but not much longer. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castellina

Bottled in November of 2023 and slated for imminent release. Floral yet reserved aromas and unequivocally sangiovese. La Riserva ages in (old) tonneaux of 700L and barriques. More brightness and freshness than the lion’s share of this appellative level in Chianti Classico, crisp and crunchy for Riserva but ultimately a matter of a specific vineyard, planted in 1985, as in the lower part beneath the younger vines. The warmest location where Ginestra blooms earlier and the fruit is saucy, a salsa of sangiovese, “sucoso,” the juices running from rare roast beef. But also blood orange and so a pulpy sensation. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Sample from Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano but my goodness what freshness, spirit and energy from Riserva 2021. Flies from the glass and grabs the senses by the tips and will not let go. Substantial does not begin to describe the feeling or do justice to assessment from what will surely become one of Luca Martini di Cigala’s long-lived and essential Le Baròncole to pour and revel in for a decade or two forward. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Gaiole

Campione: Also oxidative, lustre lost and energy waning. Hard to taste and assess late on day two of an Anteprima. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Vineyard at Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Purely from Galestro soil planted in 1968, lower down than the Pietraforte soil with five percent canaiolo field blended in the vineyard. Ages in large cask (only Stockinger) for 16 months followed by three in bottle. Almost seems better to compare this to 2021 Retromarcia (committed to memory) than the other ’22 wines because the vintages at Monte Bernardi are so very different. Though this may have shown like a closed stone (a Schmelzer quote) it still would have been more open then the 2020’s and is surely now come further as a result of this vintage’s progression. Generosity and energy, subtle “sfumatore” aromas and flavours here, there, in nooks and crannies, a Macerazione Piedmontese, 45-50 days post fermentation (60 total) on skins. The epitome of scorrevole. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sa’Etta 2021, Panzano

Purely from Pietraforte (sandstone) soil, higher up than the Galestro and while the vineyard houses five percent canaiolo it is not included in the Sa’etta Riserva. Ages another year in bottle, nine months longer than the (Galestro) Riserva. Is this similar to the sister Riserva? The short answer is yes because the long maceration creates the texture and the palate succulence but the tannins are longer chained, shadowy in their aggression and attention but also so, so refined. Bigger and broader sangiovese as Riserva for 2021 though purity begets fineness and then bequeaths potential. Tasted again, February 2024

Sa’Etta the block, planted in 1968. Sa’Etta ’21, well it would be hard not to be seduced and hypnotized by the beauty of this wine. Precision, clarity, focus, purity, style, grace, elegance – all of the above. Sees two years in 3000L Stockinger (Austrian Botti Grande) and comes away in the most vertical way. A mix of substantiality and weightlessness for sangiovese (with five percent canaiolo) so well adjusted to life as the varietal pillars they are, in this historic vineyard, as they are known. Vines as the Stonehenge of Panzano, in appearance and for the timeless Riserva they deliver. Drink 2025–2035. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

The opposite of light and juicy but looking for elegance through aging 16 months in tonneaux for the sangiovese and barriques for the merlot, on average 50 percent new. Outstanding vintage says Barbara Widmer, as opposed to ’20 merely being “good.“ But they are one in the same in many ways, acidity still thriving, fruit full and substantial, tannins very much in charge. True Riserva style, always and seemingly forever. Last tasted April 2024

Brancaia Riserva takes off where Annata leaves off and seems a bit agitated at this early stage. Even with 20 percent merlot there is an uneasiness about the sangiovese and this may not be the best time to seek the truth. Nevertheless the 2021’s lift, heft and breadth indicate a swirl of substance in fruit that precedes structure, while power knows how much it’s in control. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Riserva 2021 does by Albola what ’22 Annata could not but we know that the comparison is simply unfair. Nothing against the next vintage and a sample or just bottled wine is a tough nut to crack but this, this 2021 is a lovely wine. A Radda speciality from a top vineyard of impressive elevation, slope and exposure. The sangiovese it breathes from the high quality, low quantity vintage is equal parts fruit freshness and sweet savour. Acidity follows suit and then softness remains. Drink soon! Drink 2024-2026. Last tasted February 2024

Quite a pure red cherry fruit and simply structured Albola with early accessibility from a vintage much restricted in such matters. This is clearly designed to be purchased and cracked with haste to seek immediate gratification. Simple and proud. Well made. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2023

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Fine swirl of sangiovese with the highest quality 2021 fruit that must and will show the fineness of Volpaia’s high elevation Radda no matter the quantity gained or lost. And the vintage was not easy though the estate’s position was a plus for making cool and fresh Riserva from the vaults of a hot vintage. For Volpaia this is darker fruit, not full-on 2020 dark but thankfully the location is there to keep deep breathes alive with the freshest of Raddese air. Still this is bigger for Riserva and bones are truly strong. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Campione: Perfectly intact place, tact and effect as Riserva from Diego Finnochi at L’Erta di Radda. There is no doubt this sangiovese (and note no canaiolo in the Riserva) has many more acts and scenes to play out, but even at this earliest of early stages it is expressive of the concepts, ideals and plans that nature, the maker and life have in store. Amazing fruit quality, purity and succulence with acidity so Radda and ripe for these vineyards. Preferably speaking the time to drink 2021 would be three years forward but those who find bottles will have a hard time waiting that long. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Monteraponi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Campitello 2021, Radda

Campione: Oxidative, soured and overtly tang-inflected example which means the end of a bottle on day two is no way to taste and assess a wine as important as this. Tasted February 2024

With Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti and Director Carlotta Gori

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020

Famiglia Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Cerna 2020, Castellina

From the “Primocolle,” the first Villa Rosa hill comprising two vineyards, Solatino and Solare, for Riserva. A mix of luxe and savoury for what is ostensibly terroir relatable Riserva. Much more specific to its two part sense of place then say five years ago and so more focus at this stage of its tenure. Chewy fruit, somewhat leathery, indicative of Primocolle and exaggerated by the warm vintage. Also an herbaceous quality which is also a matter of how the hill translates sangiovese. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Pomona’s Cosimo Selvi, Monica Raspi and Enrico Selvi

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vigna Pomona L’Uomino 2020, Castellina

The artist formerly known as Bandini is not a Riserva of selection but one made from all the grapes picked out of the single Vigna Pomona. The fantasy name “L’Uomini” neither denotes uomo della strada nor uomo d’affari but definitely uomo d’onore and uomo alla mano because this Riserva cares. The vines would have been 23 years of age for this vintage and the resulting wine is spicier than the Annata, but also exhibits an exaggeration of the local balsamico. A kind of resin in there, a natural cure, savoury and like incense some might say. It is the strident and taut character that defines what’s really going on though this shall pass. Yet another example of just how well 2020s communicate and explain their potential. Slow development ahead and in the end will be a vintage held in great esteem. L’Uomini is not a man of the street or just about business. He is friendly and wears a badge of honour. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Ser Lapo 2020, Castellina

Ten percent merlot rounds out the sangiovese but also lends a bolder character, darker of fruit and quicker to the conflagration of alcohol, body and depth. The result is a Riserva that comes at you straight away in delivery of a warmer and more direct to palate vintage-relatable sangiovese. Riserva of a replicate kind, from nose to nose, sip to sip and middle ground structure so very easy to assess. Drink this now or hold for two to three years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

“The Riserva is our diamond, in general,” says Giacomo Nardi, a reference truly applicable to his new vintage that is 2020. Same postcard of Castellina and the best selection of 100 percent sangiovese chosen from four parcels within the 10 hectares of the planted vineyard. Picked in and around the 10th of October, refined in Tuscan wood. A matter of elegant tannin following a local balsamico nose, a particularity of Tuscan wood and Riserva in the Nardi style. Riserva that captures sangiovese at peak no matter how late the harvest might be and that is truly important. Impressive acumen, protective fruit under a shaded canopy and gut instincts at harvest time to be followed for successful results. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castellina

A good example of a sample, rich and my goodness the fruit and tannins are exceptional, full, established and intertwined. The potential here is positive and one could imagine that the next one for Sophie Conte’s 2021 Riserva will be unlimited. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Il Grigio 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is some peppery character especially on the aromatics and all the while the spices plus balsamic elements are consistent with the Annata, both from 2020 and 2021. Fruit is the same sourcing as the Annata but here the substantial quality by selection and extra aging in wood (mainly Botti Grandi, none of it new) means more weight and texture. Glycerol now, a silky-smooth elixir with chic style and more variegate tones. Ambient and plenty of succulence. Good structure from 2020. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arturo Pallanti, Lorenza Sebaste and Marco Pallanti – Castello di Ama, Gaiole

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2020, Gaiole

Not atypical for the vintage and as Riserva the Montebuoni 2020 is so representative of all that is suave, stylish, ripe, fresh and free. The selection of fruit, warmth of weather, extra six-plus months of aging and finally appellative conditioning all add up to soft, mature and sweet endowment,. Not many reasons to wait or stack these away on the racks or in diamonds of the cellar. This is a vintage to drink, now, soon and with gratifying expectation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2020, Gaiole

A beautiful harvest balanced by the last part of the summer with good morning temperatures and a reminder that the winter provided more snow than any season in the last 20-30 years. This is Riserva with a good balance between body and acidity. Luca’s nephew Federico sees both the ’20 Riserva and Percarlo as good as any that have ever come from San Giusto. He is correct when he comments about a balance that will endure. Last tasted February 2024

Barrel sample and the youth of this San Giusto wine is something too behold. A fortification equal to both Siena and Firenze combined. Le Baròncole is serious, stone-faced and impressive. My goodness. Score and full assessment reserved to a much later date. Tasted February 2023

I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Heady and lifted aromas, spicy, intense and certainly a level of sauvage. More substance and layers of fruit than ever before. Tang in ways no other Gaiole sangiovese will show, no matter that 10 percent of softening merlot should round out the wine, especially at Riserva level. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

La Montanina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A combination of frescezza and warmth with fruit that yes is fresh but there is both weight and tension to this Riserva. Truly appellative, very wisely and obviously Gaiole, rich and yet vertical, tight and still fleshy so that you have to see this as generous. Top drop for La Montanana between 2015 and 2020. Last tasted December 2023 and February 2024.

My what a lovely Riserva! Fruit succulent and sweet and swirled so effortlessly into equally mouthwatering acidity of pitch perfect tone. Yes there is Gaiole savour and it’s presence is as a seasoning, with chef’s ability, emotion and touch. As for 2020 well this from La Montanina delves into passion and the aforementioned emozione as well and as much as any Riserva in the Classico area. Brava, Oretta Leonini. Grande Gaiole! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2023

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Perano 2020, Gaiole

Google the words Perano + Gaiole + Chianti Classico and the first result should very well be “Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva Docg 2020, Gaiole.” Inescapable essence of Perano, essential sector of Gaiole and established representative of Chianti Classico. This is Riserva, a selection from the 90 hectares encompassing much of the estate, creating a sum total so substantial to see this 2020 as spokeswine for this agricultural place. Properly reductive while luxe and forward because in this case selectivity begets seduction, balance and structure. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted December 2023

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

Campione: A sample, lifted, high spirited and high elevation Greve raised for sangiovese that’s in a league and class of its own. Richness and a swirl of fruit meeting wood that only acidity can tame. Its does and there is a low level amount of Brettanomyces that distracts. Tannins are a touch brittle as a consequence. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Greve

The first vintage where this is a nice percentage of sangiovese from Casole (out of the Lamole UGA) and yet another warm vintage. Once again it is that fruit that brings the lift. That and the small amount of whole bunch which winemaker Manfred Ing says “I can smell it” and you know something, he’s absolutely right. Crunchy Riserva or as they say, croccantezza, layered like the Annata with the volume turned up, oak usage not so, fruit more perfumed and again that lift which is so important. The delicate nature and delicacy of sangiovese is respected and preserved, the drink-ability factor as high as it has ever been. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Montefioralle

Riserva is a thing of beauty and richness from 2020 for a vintage of raw power though with this sangiovese Verrazzano finds both restraint and controlled nervousness. The acidity is just about as well captured, preserved and musical as it gets for both appellation and vintage. An indication of present tense Verrazzano with this nervosity that’s never over the top or in danger of crossing into next level territory. The age worthiness of 2020 is tops. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Showing vibrant and racy today, a really great place for Riserva, any Riserva that is but add in the current day trenchant intention to make fresher and cleaner sangiovese. Crispy if you will, dictated by the Pietraforte of these southeastern hills of Panzano. The 2020 has found its way and the window is now open. Will stay in this ideal drinking state for four to five more years. Last tasted February 2024

Eight months later and Iacopo Morganti exclaims “Molto Buono!” The wood has not fully integrated, nor was that expected but now the aggressive aspects are relenting and the fruit-acid relationship is developing into the extraordinary. Another eight months and this will enter the “zone.” Tasted October 2023

In line with the Classico yet with better quality material chosen there is higher acidity and that matters greatly. Tannins are finer as well, yet that same darkness of pitchy and perfumed fruit is consistent with tighter and stronger grip. Must be granted another year in bottle to settle the strongholds and the score. The barrel has much to say right how, noted in grains running through the veins of the sangiovese. Older vines including Al Bosco are Riserva bound. The linger and length on this is infinite, at least in Riserva terms. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

La Riserva is a factor and a child of vintage warmth, nurturing and in Le Fonti’s Panzano hands it comes away finely tuned. A full fruity expression with profound acidity and long chains of sangiovese tannin. The 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot do effect the outcome but in these vineyards they act more Panzano than varietal when used as salt and pepper seasoning. Length is outstanding which speaks to a potential that will mean longer age-ability than many by this Riserva’s peers. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Panzano

Led by sangiovese with 15 percent cabernet franc, mainly chosen in the vineyard because explains Cosimo Gericke, “over the years I know the vineyard and which ones produce the best sangiovese.” Spends two years in small and also large wood (Slavonian botti) but the barriques are being phased out in these years. Dark fruit, rich, deep and yes it’s a woody example of Riserva but it’s suave, mature, experienced and so very real within this kind of style. Full and substantial wine with really soft and fine tannins. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2020, Radda

When when you take a sip of sangiovese and think aloud “wow, that’s pretty good,” well then something special is in the glass. Riserva Poggio Croce is a veritable glide of sangiovese in tutto, clear, present, clean and giving. A touch of residual sappy oak persists and will need to resolve before this as Riserva feels in touch with Poggio Croce and this unique part of Radda. That said the 2020 is not as big a wine as many in the territory, which is to say something very positive about what the (new) team is after. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Famiglia Cianferoni – Caparsa, Radda

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2020, Radda

Doccio a Matteo meaning the “spring” comes from the same vineyards as the Classico but as a selection because the top and bottom sections mature differently. The Riserva may not be the “freshest” but they are the best grapes that can be harvested. Includes three percent of colorino and aged in grandi botti of 1000L size. Calm and subtly fortified, open-knit and generous. Already there and will hold for several years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2020, Radda

The Caparsino always needs more time than both the Caparso and the Doccio a Matteo. Needs hours of air bit Paolo Cianferoni can’t explain why. Tannins surely, tighter chained and layered. These are chewier tannins and the only wine that’s simply not ready to drink. Rustic perhaps but when things stretch and elasticize there will be no shortage of penance served and southwestern Radda on offer. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Riserva comes from the steep 1974 vineyard to the left (north) of the house planted by Roberto Bianchi’s father Giorgio, aged for 30 months in botti and tonneaux. A true single plot that may or may not as well be wink-wink, nudge-nudge Gran Selezione. Cool and ethereal like Annata 2020 with some spice cupboard arriving at the same time as the tannins for that unresolved protein powder feeling. Still it is understood that Val delle Corti’s sangiovese are youthful, fresh, crunchy and tart. Full and corpulent with potential being the thing about this 2020 and what’s required to see it open three years later before beginning to tell its true story. A bit raw or “crudo” at this stage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Calcamura Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Sample of sweet fruit, closed and intense with early the operative to sense and feel what’s coming. Tannins locked in tight with our palates bracing for impact. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Richness incarnate, soft, billowy and downy texture but high ranging acidity puts the Gabbiano Riserva in a fine state to impress. The expression is pure richesse, velvet mouthfeel, sleekness and beauty. That acidity is the driver and will keep the flow, but also spirit alive for a few years yet. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Tenuta Tignanello 2021, San Casciano

Honestly speaking it would be hard not to recognize the hundreds of years of heritage and history in a wine that bears the name of the Marchesi. Not feeling the experience would not be paying attention and not seeing the professionalism would indicate a journalistic lapse in judgement. The 2021 Riserva is sleek (from vineyard) and sturdy by design. Vertical vintage, lower in quantity to a degree and higher in phenolics to a fault. A good one that is. Sangiovese con altre varietà complementari, part endemic and part expatriate. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2021

The Villa as Riserva is a great compliment to the Marchesi, not grossly different but less of a linear, structured and age-worthy wine. Swifter and sweeter in the natural fruit sense, swelling with glycerin and pectin invoking flavours. This is the one that imagines so much fruit and generosity in the easiest of drinking ways. Truly getable and as Riserva bridges the gap between Annata and more elevated if also serious appellative examples. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Casciano

A few more points of merlot than the Annata, up to 20 percent here and a dusty, also slightly musty Riserva, though acidity is quite fine. Two years in barriques but also the 3000L Grenier botti. More energy than Anaata but also more savour and verdancy. Drink over the next two years. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Duccio Corsini – Villa Le Corti, San Casciano

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Cortevecchia 2020, San Casciano

As with Le Corti Annata the wines see 27hL casks and colorino is used, “only for the tradition.” The Cortavecchia is intrinsically connected to the Annata, they are brethren and the selection between one and the other happens after fermentation. First comes the spezzaturra and then the division. The river stone soil earthiness is carnale not animale and from 2020 there is more flesh and body then before. This means more settling and grounding but also roundness than what happened in 2018, but also surely what will come from 2021. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: A sample though surely as close to the finished product as it will get for this 100 percent sangiovese. Hard not to note and feel the commodiousness of the vintage, from fruit phenolic in its well developed ripeness, acids fortifying, tannins stronger than ever before. Harder to express the vineyard (Alparco) and more challenging to shine a light but this is Emma and San Donato so be sure to taste the sanguine orange ornateness of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

While there have been several warm vintages over the last five or six for Chianti Classico there are few that deliver this combination of concentration juxtaposed against such a high level of tannic command. The ’20 Riserva is essentially immovable at this early stage and should rightly require 18 further months to shed some of its assigned consignment, to unburden, lighten and be set free. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cinciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Somewhere between six and seven thousand bottles are produced of this 100 percent sangiovese, from several vineyards and so the cuvée is indeed a selection. Definite spice cupboard of aromatics, coriander and ground red pepper, red fruit powder and then more attention paid because the wood is strong early on. Will be needing some time to liquify the chalkiness and emulsify into the textural fabric of the wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico La Riserva DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Really unique for Classico and also San Donato aromatics, somewhat herbaceous, lifted and floral. Definitely salty while well-seasoned, namely with white pepper and a curious note of mirto. Quite a swath of unresolved wood and very much a thickened texture. As Riserva and especially San Donato goes this will need and benefit from time in bottle. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Querciolo 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Vineyards are 24-25 year-old for Riserva with some (25 percent) new barriques used for aging. Soft yet elastic tannins equip this 2020 for deeper term aging to the end of its first decade. Once again it is a matter of vintage and this one will see Riserva last several years longer than the Annata. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva Calidonia DOCG 2020, Vagliagli

Campione: A sample and always Calidonia – Calidonia, the three vineyard (Vigna della signora Chiara, Finocchi and Perone) from Mocenni estate as Riserva that is the sangiovese incarnation of its maker Alessandra Casini. A Riserva of grace and fluidity, of movement as if feet do not touch the ground and corporeal body gliding effortlessly across the palate. The wine senza sforzo nel movimento, still in youth with wood purposed and informing fruit to come for the soirée and stay for the pleasure. As do we because the ingredients will eventually emulsify into a fine varietal salsa. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted February 2024

The women of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castellina

What a change from year to year, still under the guidance of Franco Bernabei, still some salinity but the sappy quality is gone and now the sangoivese has some backbone. Structure is now part of Riserva’s world and in turn our experience. Last tasted May 2024

Perfumed to the hilt, a Castellina of quite mature fruit and seriously typical Riserva profile. Chalky as part of its tannic adjustment with wood a major part, espresso and dusty chocolate just omnipresent at the finish. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Riserva is expressive of some more warmth and also spice as compared to both Annata and Gran Selezione. In this respect it’s truly Riserva, the concept made even more notable due to the aromatic richness in layers of seductive perfume. If the others are crunchy wines with energy and freshness than this is the chewy one, with a different energy and style. More “ruffiano,” the kind of sangiovese you eat slowly and savour every bit of the sauce. Gonna need a few pieces of bread to get every last drop. 70,000 to 80,000 bottles produced. The 2018 sold like crazy and so this ’19 is out at the same time as the 2019 Annata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Gaiole

High Gaiole tones of sweet vintage fruit filling the aromatic spaces above and between. Field blend style with all the endemic bits of varieties spicing and saucing the nooks, butte chambers and crannies of this wine. There are no moments when 2019 Badia a Coltibuono is quiet or absent – the wine gifts and gifts again, and again. This is the future and wouldn’t it be nice if this family could carry on this way for another 1000 years. The privilege can never be taken for granted. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Castellinuzza Di Claudia Cinuzzi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

Traditional Chianti Classico from high elevation and verdant hills for sangiovese (with bits of canaiolo and malvasia nera) that can’t and will not be separated from its place. That would be Lamole and Riserva simply compounds the UGA’s character, compresses its feelings and expresses the emotions of a territory’s coolest location. This is parochial red wine of a specific and insular heritage and few other wines deliver this kind of specificity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Emilia, Maria Giovanna and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Just recently bottled three months ago and will be released this month. There is no doubt this is the finest Riserva Giovanni has made in his 30-pus years at Casaloste. Immediately notice the salty note, the mineral streak, the moving of all parts together in mimic of a vintage where phenolic maturity and sugars came about slowly and incrementally as one. Perhaps 2016 was similar or close but this, this finds harmony as easily as it can possibly happen. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Panzano

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2019, Radda

“I remember 2019 when we tasted it together at the age that the 2020 is now,” says Paolo Cianferoni. “Now this 2019 is more relaxed.” Aromas are similar to the Mimma 2019, gently swarthy and fruity exotic, with a sense of that fruit becoming leathery but more floral along the way. “Here it’s a fresh place so the fruit is constant. The acidity is what makes the sangiovese so perfumed.” Paolo never touches the pH, no adjustments necessary because of the warming climate. Last tasted February 2024

Aged in the big barrels, determined by a selection of higher quality berries and the cask size. How does Paolo know which are the best bunches? “I just know,” he says. “For more than 20 years I know where the best grapes live.” Might be where the cinghiale eat, where the clay is wet or not, in dry weather. More of a Riserva vintage for Caparso, added richness a bonus and without any wood distraction this glides and glistens, slices and dices across the palate. Solid sangiovese with a cerebral twist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2019, Radda

Doccio a Matteo is more settled and ready to enjoy than Caparsino, yet equally perfumed as the 2019s all seem to be. Liquid chalky, a true expression of Paolo’s three combined soils, each one layered upon one another. Galesto di Scalia (di Argilla), Alberese mixed with Sabia (sand), and finally a mix of sand and clay. Lovely mix of perfumes, silky textures and blood orange reduction for a truly layered sangiovese. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. More tannin and tension here, especially as compared to Riserva (Caparsino) and needing an extra year to integrate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva from Colle Bereto’s Radda is about as pure, fresh and scintillatingly clean as it has ever been. What we should be incredibly thankful for is the patience to see this released as a 2019 in 2024. The tannins are well on their way to resolution while the acidity is maintained. A fine, fine example of all that Riserva can be in Chianti Classico. Classic, stylish and generous. Last tasted February 2024

Big and brawny wine from Colle Bereto for Riserva and 2019 though of a concern with fruit cast in balance against structure lined up for low, slow and carefully curated development. And maturity with pure sangiovese raised and never braised, surely to be exulted and ultimately praised. Loving the acids within that structure and the chalkiness in smart ratio these vineyards seem to procure. Bravo Bernardo. Certamente. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Giacomo Castellani – Tenuta Campomaggio, Radda

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Radda

Riserva is a natural extension of Annata, as natural of fruit and acidity with a similar litheness and transparency. That said the concentration exceeds or steps up, without noticing wood even an iota more upon the structural parts. Here a blend of two vineyards, of Olmo and mostly Ginestraia. Fermentation in concrete and conical vats, aging for 18 months in the grandi botti. The mix of Pietraforte and Macigno soils will not be overstated and so Riserva comes away in doubled layers on repeat. There is no doubt that Riserva steps up from Annata but never abandons the basic Raddese fact of where these grapes are grown. Sangiovese with a double identity, of the two vineyards though from 2019 the Ginestraia Macigno holds more sway. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Santa Teresa 2019, Radda

In 2019 the Riserva labeled Santa Teresa is pulled from the vineyard called “Telignie,” though Campomaggio is not able to use the name because the house at the bottom of the hill is called the same. This is the Pietraforte vineyard, vinified and aged in the Troncone vats, simply done but with no botti because the vintage saw this vineyard give the best quality and also quantity. Approximately 10 percent whole bunch included to bring a new layer of texture and also complexity. Almost no wood noted and only purity meets parity. Balanced and seductive, shoulders relaxed and flavours repeatable sip after sip. Only 5,000-7,000 bottles made, of a total 35,000 production. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2019, Vagliagli

The label that represents the original and central part of Dievole, first made in 1990 that was essentially 900 years after the estate was born. Richer and bolder than Annata with a selection of best plots more concentrated on the higher elevations. The sangiovese receives a five percent mix of canaiolo and colorino, all aging in the big casks. Very blood orange, wealthy and juicy fruit, tannins balanced and integrated, spice all over the back end. That bite is urged on by the inclusion of 10 percent stems, many of them green. Still tight at the finish so we’ll see its best years beginning one from now. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Annata and Riserva at CCC2024

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018, Castellina

Quite a sappy and soupy 100 per cent sangiovese Riserva made by Attilio Pagli, before organics came in. A style for they who like sweet marmalata, a purée of minestre vegetable, an and after eight (chocolate mint), all of which can somehow be very appealing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Trasqua Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Fanatico 2018, Castellina

Chewy Riserva, fully formed and developed with some of Trasqua’s finest fruit to date. Good acids too, more than most vintages and it feels like this would have been picked in late September because the ripenesses are both fully realized. Stands at attention and delivers all that it could have possibly had to offer. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2018, Radda

Just a bit warmer than 2019, “but not too much.” You really feel the freshness and the acidity in a much greater way from this 2018. Extremely youthful wine with all the acidity and structure truly captured. A sangiovese and Chianti Classico lover’s wine. Drink 2024-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Mature aromatics, chewy red fruit, all the leathery plum and liquorice that can be packed into a Chianti Classico Riserva. Developed to the drinking stage, earlier as a vintage than many, hot one mind you and showing that right now, and more. Some mineral and chalk to the structure but pretty much good to go. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted February 2023

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2018, Radda

“My favourite wine,” says Paolo, “it has for me the depth of the season.” Great richness juxtaposed against acids and freshness with true herbal bitters as sweet as they are grippy. Truly classic sangiovese and Riserva, even more so than the Caparsino. Last tasted February 2024

Single vineyard sangiovese with just two percent of colorino raised in 1000L botti, 12-14 months, just like the Classico. Doccio Matteo is the name of an old spring in one of the oldest vineyards, highest in elevation (450m) where the winds blow hardest. “Doccio” is a shower in Italian and Matteo refers to San Matteo. Just as tannic and full of tension as per 2019 Doccio Matteo but also Chianti Classics Riserva and yet the ’18 Caparsino DOCG is beginning to fade. Not this former IGT with the potential to become Gran Selezione and which rages with energy plus drive. Let it ride. Come back in two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Cantina Tuscania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Effige Nera 2018, San Donato In Poggio

Unequivocal and unmistakable as being a sangiovese from San Donato in Poggio for one reason alone and that is the blood orange perfume so bloody (pun intended) typical of this westerly UGA. Here as Riserva and from 2018 with its purity of red fruit so citrus is origin, fine grained though now liquefying tannin and from a vintage picked in late September yet balanced in alcohol, and ripeness ahead of a strange 48-hour spell cast by temperatures running daytime high and nighttime low. Really fine Riserva in the window at this very moment but will stay this way for three to four years easy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castellina

Hot year and one of the great recent challenges for a Chianti Classico vintage but Nardi’s Riserva comes out at 13 percent alcohol. What is this witchcraft? What kind of wizardry or magic is practiced on this farm? Finished harvest on the 22nd of September, two full weeks after rains finally came and nearly fulfilling the requiem to arrive at phenolic maturity. Still this is Castellina and waiting through to October would habe been impossible. Yes acidity is lower but still very present and the wine has aged beautifully. You feel here that you are drinking the attention and passion of a small production with this being the very best that could have come from such a challenge. Fundamental instincts followed and sangiovese that speaks to the connection between family and place. Just a touch of drying maturity coming out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Latest release and coming to market as Riserva for Castell’In Villa is 2017, of course and for all the right reasons. Is there an equal in Chianti Classico for this conditioning of 100 percent sangiovese raised in traditional ways that age concurrent with their modern ability to deliver joy and profundity in equal ways? The answer is hard to find and so what comes from ’17 and Castelnuovo Berardenga’s vineyards in surround of the borgo and dressed throughout the forests is in fact nothing short of profound. One of the only wines in the entire territory that need not be spoken about in terms of fruit, acidity and tannin. The approach is different, in how senses, feelings and emotions are solicited and how responses are metered to consider in terms of gravity and other physical forces at work. Ethereality is an obtuse description, as was profundity but they are what they are and the things that come to mind. Sorry, not sorry. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2017, Panzano

Lowest of low yields and great attention needed to be paid in both fields and cellar to result in this fine Riserva ’17. Reduced tomato and still a crunchy sangiovese that needs no introduction. Blood orange citrus and charred herbs, complexities left, right and centre. The tannins dry out more than ’16 but there is no doubt they are children of the same parents. Only 7,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Caparsino 2017, Radda

Hottest vintage with sunburnt grapes but acidity remains high even while the wine may seem a bit toasted. Still plenty of freshness and a reminder that all the old vineyard fruit was used because Doccio a Matteo was not produced. Acids are strong and bright, fruit reduced but opening up and the wine is now in a proper drinking place. The answer to whatever question you are thinking is simple. Caparsa. It’s strong to be sure. Last tasted February 2024

A vintage with no Doccio Matteo made because the grape quality and also quantity was not up to Radda par. “The wine is a mirror of the land, the people and the weather, like a dog.” The grapes here are from both Riserva selections and so quality reaches above par as only one of two, our two in one were produced. Severe at its moments and yet there is much concentration and compact elements, especially chalk and tension in this grippy 2017. Wait on it – the acids are also there to act as the fruition reaching catalyst. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2023

Tenuta Carobbio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016, Panzano

More off a volumetric Riserva as compared to the output and also the texture of 2017. Similar aromatics to be honest, of tomatoes and blood oranges but also fresh red plums in 2016. The identity of the winery and the vineyard could never come into question. Says Dario Faccin, “you change the quantity but you don’t change the quality.” 18,000 bottles produced as compared to 7,000 in 2017. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2016, Radda

Always with three percent colorino and the Riserva that joins Caparsino through comes into being in a different way. True vintage richness but always the Caparsa freshness and spirit. This by way of acidity and intensity but who could not be seduced by the tannins and structure in spite of an “easy” season by Chianti Classico standards. A complete wine in every respect. Last tasted February 2024

The 2016 Doccio a Matteo is the first sangiovese (in this line-up) from Paolo Cianferoni that’s actually ready to drink, in fact it’s very much there with some drying tannin mixed with dried fruit happening. Full and caky wine, rich and substantial. Must have salty protein to show best and for the win. Tasted February 2023

A single-vineyard Riserva from the plot above the smaller second house called Caparsino and filled with all the soils; argile, Galestro and Alberese. Surely an absolute about face expression with higher volatility and a high, near and nigh potential for advancing porcini notes. A deeper and darker black cherry. Characterful and mature in such a different way, The acidity is uncompromising even while the wine acts oxidative with more wood than the other Riserva. Drink 2021-2026. Tasted February 2020

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Needing time to open up and so 24 hours will always benefit this wine, mainly sangiovese with just a bit (0-5 percent) canaiolo fermented together and the end result is unmitigated integration. The blood orange vintage, slow oxidized and matured in big barrel for 24-30 months, a spice continuum all the way through. Menthol on the palate at the back end and more spice – so much texture and so far from going secondary. Fine Riserva vintage for Losi. Last tasted February 2024

Losi Querciavlle, bastion of one of the globe’s most impressive Alberese landscapes and home to some of this territory’s finest chiselled sangiovese. Like marble structures slowly formed by only those who know how to separate the form from the mass. This is the intuition Pietro Losi and his prodigies know and gift to the world. Give their wines time and you will understand. Like this ’15 Riserva, strong, confident, understated, perhaps yet misunderstood but surely pure and true. Bravissimo. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted February 2020

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2015, Radda

“A real nuclear bomb, like 2017 the vintage was every hot in 2015 and the tannins very aggressive,” remembers Paolo. Salty on the aromatics and while the wine has done some settling it’s truly taut and tannic. A beast this one that still needs more time. Not typical for 2015 but the life of this Doccio A Matteo will be much longer than 2016. Last tasted February 2024

A fresher and more spirited sangiovese as compared to 2016, energy still running full and yet you can drink this with the right amount of air. Chewy liquorice, some tar, iodine and soy. Chocolate, lots of the dark stuff. The wines showed more wood back in these vintages. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2023

With Neri Capponi

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2010

Chianti Classico UNESCO World Heritage; the modern history of Chianti Classico and Villa Calcinaia up to its UNESCO candidacy. Only four years later and coinciding with the full separation away from all other Chianti wines for a 2010 so much more fresh, alive and intense than Bastignano 2006. This from a very hot vintage and a sangiovese that finished at 14.63 percent alcohol. A much more balanced and baller wine, here as Riserva for Chianti Classico with energy and vigour in modo vogue. 5,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With Laura Bianchi, Giulia Cecchi and Jessica du Puy at Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004, San Donato in Poggio

“One of the most elegant vintages in the early 2000s, not too cold, hot, hard or soft, and really well balanced,” explains Laura Bianchi. Aged in a combination of botti and tonneaux, now into full secondary comportment while still grippy and tannic. In truly fine condition though who could argue that the 1982 is fresher, of finer acidity and more balance than this ’04 made 22 years later. A sign of wood usage and the times, of pressing and extraction, of the sort of Chianti Classico that was desired 20 years ago. And yet, and yet the acidity and fine-grained tannin are together intrinsically connected for what can best be described as an unctuous union of the two. This wine just gets better and better in the glass. In fact the spirit and especially acidity are noted as they climb up the sides of the palate with sparks to a point just below the cheekbones. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Doccio A Matteo 2003, Radda

Wild wine from a wild vintage, crazy hot at a time when vintages like this were not the norm though were beginning to be. Hot year but also high acidity, likely because of hailstorms in July that knocked off half of the production. The vines reacted by delivering more acidity to support grapes that were maturing quicker and heavier. Still this is Caparsa and freshness persists no matter the dried wild strawberry and oaky flavours. “It’s not my wine because I prefer lighter wines but this is very nice – if you like rich and expressive.” Just a few bottles left in Paolo’s possession. Now only 23. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982, San Donato in Poggio

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1969, San Donato in Poggio

One of the coolest vintages of the era and going back to a time when the wood was chestnut for aging sangiovese. Showing with end stage maturity, especially as compared to the 1968 and 1970 Riserva tasted at Monsanto. There is this feeling of chestnut sap reduction, a kind of soy and vanilla pudding, an herbal note and a sweetness. Imagination begets fantasy and fantasy fades into demure. Tasted February 2024

With Maddalena Fucile, Matteo Vaccari and Bernardo Manetti at the 2024 Chianti Classico Collection

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2021, Panzano

Oldest plot of vines are just approaching 50 years of age growing in the schist with Galestro flaking above the soil. Giovanni Manetti decided to bottle Sorbo as a single vineyard in 1985 though it does come from three plots of plantings put in between 1965 and 1973. Though April frost affected quantity in 2021 there was no compromise to quality and in fact this is as balanced a Vigna el Sorbo as Manetti has ever produced. Bottled just three-plus weeks ago and so yes it’s tight and compact, especially the tannins that take control but truth is this will continue to happen for another few months at the very least. See past the first stage and imagine what will be, take stock of memory and project towards the future. Manetti once said “the fresh finish (of the 1993 wine) should be the trademark of Chianti Classico wines.” Perhaps 2021 will emerge this way. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2021, Panzano

From the terraces around the old medieval Panzano church that the Manetti’s have and continue to restore for a Gran Selezione they were not sure would be made this early in their tenure of working with its fruit. Yet it shocked and surprised Giovanni and Bernardo to the point that it could be made at this level so early and so 2019 was the first, well ahead of schedule. This is a truly structured vintage, a trace of next direction, from the past and through the next generation, fruit so compact and mineral focused but tannins in complete control. The finish is beautifully salty and so completely Panzano. This puts San Leolino as Gran Selezione in next level and new light. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2021, Panzano

An important selection, in 2021 mainly from the Al Sole vineyard but also some fruit coming out of Francesca. “A great vintage for us,” says Iacopo Morganti. Unfortunately the Easter frosts reduced quantity by 40 percent. No matter because Il Margone’s position is to offer a calm respite away from wines too big for their own good, pivoted towards elegance in a sangiovese so right and so pure. Puts this in the finest Panzano light as a wholesome Margone by Morganti and Il Molino di Grace that will slowly evolve over a near 15 year period with kept freshness and slow development. Last tasted May 2024

Campione: Take a little trip forward along a linear and precisely drawn line from Riserva to Gran Selezione and see what will be. Not as aggressive or intense as Riserva but its own kind of powerful and grippy while also more charming. I believe its elegance will begin to show sooner rather than later, say in the first few weeks of 2021. The wood is more noticeable on the nose and the sangiovese needs time – but charm and grace is there. This you can count on. Smaller production of 8,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted October 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Campione: Will be bottled in August and released in 18 months. Since 2016 no frost issues and at this 400m-plus elevation site the April frosts have not been an issue. Striking Gran Selezione of lift, next level acidity and longest chains of tannic command. This may be a sample but it forges a connection between parts, to its Panzano vineyard, to some of Chianti Classico’s finest Galestro and iron soils, to the future. It’s all there, as are the passion plus hard work. The potential is almost impossible to imagine. The length is endless. 3,000 bottles will be made. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The aromas and perfumes are so much more prevalent and open for 2021 with stoniness and Castellina as the instigator for how this Gran Selezione is want to express itself. Crispy, savoury and the sort to really bite down and sink your teeth into. Last tasted April 2024.

New label not yet printed that likely indicated this has not been in bottle long and as a 2021 Gran Selezione that must surely be the case. Keep this in mind when you feel just how implosive and locked in the fruit is kept behind the wall of tannic sound. The freight is loaded in the compartments but the train has yet to leave the station – though as a 2021 there will be joy at the end of the line. With stops along the way because the vintage does not demand too much nor will it crash and burn. Brancaia’s 2021 is a ripe and primed GS to live out the decade and then for a few more years in the next. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2021, San Casciano

If it looks like, smells like and tastes like Badia a Passignano, well then it must be Badia a Passignano. Then again as a 2021 the fullness, generosity and natural phenolic grip meeting sweetness is unparalleled. Yes the underlying verdant savour is always there, always the Badia’s corner of San Donato in Poggio, but honestly the pulchritude of substance feels extant, furthered and extra level for Passignano. For Antinori. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Pietraforte meets Macigno and Galestro at Campomaggio, Radda

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2020, Castellina

Big and let’s reiterate big vintage for Capraia’s Castellina sangiovese and as Gran Selezione the ideal elevates to the hyperbole of an idiom. Thick, rich, oaky and seriously intense but boy that wood has to to settle and integrate. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Clean, advanced to a finer point and really showing the sweetness of fruit at this stage. Open whenever you are ready yet can also be kept for four-plus years. Last tasted February 2024

Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2020 is Gran Selezione like looking in the Castellina mirror because the purity of red, red, red fruit is the crux and at the core of what this wine wants to say. Hyper indicative of the vintage, clear and transparent, never too weighty or adamant and Fonterutoli puts everything in its rightful place. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February and October 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2020, Castellina

From Palagione where vines were first planted in 1965 and the material kept alive through massal selection. Here more structure and lower layers, compact yet breathable Gran Selezione that moves like an accordion. At once tight and playing bass notes but then open and making echoing sounds. A complex wine so young and yet with such a bright future ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sei 2020, Castellina

Sei is long but Sei is right. Sei knows what’s what and is ready for the fight. With itself, a self imposed struggle that mimics the vines and what they had gone through in the vintage. A warm one but this amazing vineyard at 500m sprawled over a hill convex and rolling is the place where Castellina sangiovese turns out this kind of succulence. The maker knows what he’s got and delivers the goods, less in the face then many from 2020 and with grace. This is a fine wine. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castellina

Really, really dark blood orange, deeper, darker and richer than what will likely come next from 2021. Spicy nose, wild, almost ferocious and great complexity, wound tight and the palate acting so multifaceted as well, but yet to unwind. Persistence is wow, going on forever. A serious, polished and fabulous 2020 Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: A barrel sample but how can Colonia not be distinctive? Gotta be just about ready to get into bottle at this three-plus-plus year mark, savoury bits swirling and fruit layers compounded with great force. The way the warm and frankly big vintage manifests itself here is with fruit intensity and wood spice that piques here, there and everywhere. A Colonia that needs years to integrate and more time too settle in. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

“A vintage a little hidden between two great ones, 2019 and 2021,” tells Francesco Mazzei. The fruit comes from one special and large (nine hectare) parcel in Castelnuovo Berardenga on the Vagliagli side not far from Mocenni. A wild weave of expositions crisscrossing the apex and crests of a hill at 350m-plus with views to all directions. Makes for a complex patterning of fruit and acidities, a venn diagram of all that is Mazzei, the experience with Fonterutoli, the new frontier in Castelnuovo and Gran Selezione. Some variegate phenolics add to the mystique while dry and botanical Amaro comes later to expand upon the multiplicity of the wine. There is much going on and the need to wait a year or two is recommended. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

The sangiovese comes from the highest of the San Felice vineyards with a few points here and there of other indigenous varieties like the variant of colorino (called abrusco), malvasia, pugnitello and ciliegiolo. So youthful with still gritty or sandy tannins, high tonality but always the balsamic, spices and herbs. Wood is very much in the aromatic mix but also on the texture, thick as thieves with those hard-working tannins. Give it five years and things will get oh so very interesting. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Castello Di Ama Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG San Lorenzo 2020, Gaiole

San Lorenzo is one of the most unique Gran Selezione because, well it was always one, long before it was allowed to be labeled this way. The large vineyard was the Classico for Castello di Ama, the wine that represented the vineyards and estate in the most succinct way. That said it was always about breadth and quantity, as it is now though the vines have been been held, treated and farmed to the highest standard. The 2020 is an aromatic beast, meaty and floral, of evergreen and spices. A potpourri and a masala, the palate acting out the stew of all these aromatics accenting juices, fats and proteins for the most well-developed Gran Selezione in the territory. A fantasy of sangiovese with 13 percent merlot and (7) malvasia nera for 60,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Gaiole

Exuberance and scintillant matter exude from Brolio’s energetic 2020 Gran Selezione which is truly a selection in the form of a “Villages” example taken from 270-pus hectares and at least five different terroirs. A layered and variegate mix of sand, clay and limestone, a lacustrine set of complexities lending all that is needed to create such a well-rounded example of Gran Selezione. Defines Gaiole and Ricasoli, discovers the vintage and delivers the goods. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colledilà 2020, Gaiole

Colledilà, likely “lost” from the Welsh and yet this first Gran Selezione labeled with its Gaiole UGA will leave us all anything but. Like a an old and beautiful Welsh folk song about a love lost this is the sort of sangiovese that may just make you wistful and weepy. That is because Ricasoli has discovered what makes these grapes round out into a most ideal example of Gran Selezione. This is a soulful and spiritual hymn to Chianti Classic and specifically Gaiole, living, breathing and singing. There is charm, elegance and beauty here, not to mention to kind of structure built upon epochs of geology to see this linger well into the next and further decades. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Riecine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Gittori 2020, Gaiole

Yet juicy, not finally because it always was for a crispy vintage of Riecine’s top drop. What truly matters now is the incredible length to tell us that the wine is in a great position and the possibilities will travel long. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Wholly singular Gran Selezione aromatic set, a smoulder not noted in any other sangiovese, certainly not at this level. That said the red citrus of Riecine can’t be missed, that plus tar and roses notes so reminiscent of some nebbiolo. This would be a great ringer to throw into a mixed sangiovese and nebbiolo blind tasting with tasters struggling to decide which were which. Great length from Riecine and without a doubt a wine for cellaring. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2023

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Asofia 2020, Greve

A Sofia, self denoted label for proprietor Sofia Ruhne and a Gran Selezione from the vineyard opposite the estate on terraces rising up the eastern hill of Greve. A 2020 of restraint, clarity and controlled intensity, many old vines imparting their wisdom to develop concentration, but never too much. There is a not too hard and not too soft aspect of this sangjovese. It speaks to the heart of the Terreno matter. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

With John Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Prima 2020, Greve

La Prima is as it states, the first Gran Selezione and the larger of the two in terms of production for Vicchiomaggio. Richness and somewhat middle of the road structure but all falls into place without much obstruction. Stony and grippy, liquid chalky and quite fine all around, while also softened by 10 percent merlot. Not as complex as Le Bolle to be sure but a fine representative of Matta’s Greve nonetheless. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Victoria, Federica, Sebastain and Delfina Matta – Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Greve

Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2020, Greve

Sister Gran Selezione to La Prima, certainly not La Seconda but rather “Le Bolle,” literally the “bubbles.” Happens to be the name of the top parcel at Vicchiomaggio and a Gran Selezione that captures every ounce of fruit and moment of truth for the vintage. And yet at 13.5 percent alcohol it’s a bit of a throwback, a light and bright star for the appellation at the near minimum as far as discipline and rules are concerned. This is about as elegant and graceful as it gets for the appellation so that great food can be paired alongside for years to come. If I were designing a pairing menu today this would rise to the top of the list. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. One of the baller and brazen Gran Selezione in Conti Capponi’s work, doubled down by a vintage of similar character. Intense minerals and elemensl streaking through chalky fruit that mimics and speaks to the terroir – an Alberese stone that will not be denied. This is indeed serious and structured. Wait a minimum four years people. Please. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. Richer, thicker, softer and less intense than certainly Bastignano and in fact the lack of power makes Contessa Luisa show its wood to much greater effect. Sure this needs to relax, settle, integrate and transform but Luisa will always be the softest and dreamiest of the Gran Selezione ‘20s. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2020, Montefioralle

Campione: A sample but one at the three and a half year mark so let’s take it at face value. If Bastignano is the beast and Contessa Luisa the beauty then where does that put La Fornace? Not exactly in the middle but shall we say at the mean with its complimentary mix of brawn and beauty, a handsome 2020 of warmth and energy, higher acidity and a burning desire to please. The furnace is on a heater but the flame will die down and eventually breeze to a flicker, after five or six years before fully softening at around 10 to 12. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sillano 2020, Montefioralle

Another 2020 from Terreno but this time the terrain is Montefioralle, off of Formazione di Silano geology and so there is grit and power that A Sofia does not show. A Gran Selezione of musculature but a toned and taut corporeal type. Also finer or at least sharper acids from the Sillano and more wood noted as well. May live longer than it’s sister but it shows less finesse – which is splitting hairs but that’s how we look at children of the same parents. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

Corso, Bernardo and Margherita Manetti – Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Sorbo 2020, Panzano

If you think there has been movement from Vigna del Sorbo 2020 think again because the locks remain on the doors, the windows closed and the sign says “come back next season.” Last tasted February 2024

Three parcels, two planted between 1965 and 1971 plus 1973, coming together because the uniqueness of these three plots are the schist soils that manifest above ground as Galestro. All about spiciness and mid-palate volume. The sorbo is a local fruit, specific to Tuscany, very dry and tannic, much like grapes. And hello to the Chianti Classico UGA within Greve commune because this is the first label to say Panzano, 40 years in the making and finally the mention is here. Structure is serious from a reduced crop yield due to frost in April and this is what Giovanni Manetti had to say at the time. “We had a couple of days very cold, April 6th and 7th but the damages are limited to the young vines. The majority of the buds of the other vines were still closed and were not hurt by the frost. In the rest of the CC territory there were some damages in the warmer areas and zero in the cooler ones like Radda and Lamole. The frost in 2017 was much more worse than this.” A linear Vigna del Sorbo this 2020, taut, extremely young and with a great potential. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2020, Lamole

The sangiovese from Lamole of the vineyard strewn with stones of marine origin. Marne di Macigno is the derivative geological term used by Giovanni Manetti and who should argue with the logic? A vein of calcareous material runs through, surely come down from Monte San Michele, up above at 1000m direction Radda. Almost as if both Lamole and Panzano are present in this unicorn vineyard, a marriage of two UGAs in one thin strip of terraced steppes encompassing a single block. Fermentation in amphora “to highlight the fruit in another way,” tells Bernardo Manetti. The most textural of all the Fontodi wines, and indeed a pulpiness as opposed to the glissade of especially the Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. “The nose is like music,” says Giovanni Manetti. Classically composed, lyrical and asymmetrically on repeat. Someday Pastrolo may become Fontodi’s biggest prize. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrazze San Leolino 2020, Panzano

How much does the human factor effect a wine like San Leolino? The answer lies in the relationship between the land, weather, vintage and in how the people who work the fields to maximize the gifts made available to them. From 2020 the quotient is high, above 2019 and ready to pass the torch to 2021. At least in these first three vintage the incline is palpable, the progression linear and more importantly vertical. This is great and 2021 will take it further. Allow the wood to settle for two more years. Last tasted February 2024

From the vineyards surrounding the 9th century Pieve and you know what they say. “Sangiovese is planted, consequences follow.” A 15th century drawing found in a Florence museum proves that monks cultivated grapes on this property at that time. More perfume than the Classico level Panzano and so there is proof that this terraced land with high level Alberese soils provides aromatics and great structure in the way a Lamole plus Panzano might hypothetically get together for a similar result. Leolino is not a go between but something unique, something other. Special and of an aging potential that may just be more promising than that of Vigna del Sorbo, but let’s wait 10-15 years to see if that will come to be true. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Margone 2020, Panzano

Tenth anniversary for the Gran Selezione appellation that was first launched by Il Molino di Grace with the 2010 vintage released in 2014. While Riserva may have come to a readied state Il Margone has not, because tannin times acidity come out doubly aggressive, like the Annata but magnified to the power of 10. Crazy Panzano acidity, sweet and extremamente ventoso. Not far away but still not there. Last tasted February 2024

The vineyard that gives the best quality is Magdalena Vineyard planted around 2010, both for 2020 and what’s to come in 2021. When you have less production it’s easier to separate the wheat from the chaff and so the lots fermented separately are easier to identify. This 2020 proposes an extreme set of tannic proportions but sweet fruit with heft, weight and flesh is up to the task. Tasted October 2023

Fine tannic presence from Gran Selezione for 2020, several steps up from Riserva with less pitch and grab but still overt dark fruit. More diversity and complexity in perfume, notable violets and rose but really what stands out here is how the tannins allow the fruit to stay up front. There are no perceived grains or sand-papery textures involved, neither is Il Margone soft or fluffy. There may only be 8,000 or so bottles available at this quality and so a rare and must have wine it most certainly will be. Iacopo Morganti explains it well. “It’s not easy too make three different levels of Chianti Classico. You need to understand the vintage and the differences, especially when you have less quantity.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

The IdF 2020 will be released in two or three months and if the vineyard were registered as Panzano (and not Montefioralle) then it will be the first GS labeled with the UGA. A wholly apposite vintage to 2021, grippier with fruit shaded darker and brooding, but what really stands out is the ferric and the sanguine, intense and reductive iron blood of jove. Like eating grilled calf’s liver and now the deep red Panzano soil from this single vineyard really hits hard and flows through the corpulence of the sangiovese. The vineyard will be called Le Falcole on the label as of 2020. One of the most intense and identifiable expressions of any in all of Chianti Classico. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted February 2024

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Panzano

Campione: A sample but more developed as such than so many because Le Fonti, unlike many others does not feel the need to extract and press to impress. In fact there is a level of restraint and fineness that speaks to confidence but also a Gran Selezione made in the way it simply had to be made. Important as one hundred percent sangiovese and definitive of Le Fonti’s finest available fruit in their north-easterly aspect and exposure of Panzano. This is seriously good. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rignana 2020, Panzano

Gran Selezione is 100 percent sangiovese, just bottled in June of 2023. First vintage was 2013 and this 2020 is the first to see Panzano gracing the label under the new rules of the UGA. Similar elévage to the Riserva with all small barrels from a 2003 planted vineyard packed with lots of clay, Alberese lower down and Galestro at the top. Floral example, a bit of acetone, some wood scents of vanilla and coconut and finally balsamico. High acid, sharp, quite tannic and needing a few years to settle in. Will be a much better wine once the integration occurs. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

Curious how 2020 shows a bit more maturity then the 2019 Gran Selezione and the vintage is a bit of a crossroads for this appellative level of a Brancaia Classico. Shows its wood with more aromatic and also textural density, acids are lower and a bit brooding while overall the feeling is of one very experienced and complete Gran Selezione. Balsamico at the finish and balance for sure. Last tasted May 2024

The Brancaia from Castellina is expressly three things. First and foremost a matter of 2020, secondly Castellina of temperament and more than anything a Gran Selezione to speak of the current epoch of Brancaia. As far as vintages are concerned these 2020s are a thing of great beauty and accessibility, with respect to UGA the acidity and cool mentality are at the height of heights and finally, the transparency and see through honesty is exemplary of the current Brancaia world order. Fine, fine Selezione, drinkable and cellar-able. Do as you please. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February and October 2023

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Solatìo 2020, Radda

Starting at Annata 2021, through Riserva 2021 and here to Gran Selezione 2020 we see, nose, taste and feel Albola’s progression, in descending order. The most fruit, sweetest acidity, finest integration and more generous gifts are in this wine. Less structured than many Gran Selezione while also less intense, brooding or formidable as many peers – but sometimes fruit is everything. As here with a 2020 that’s ready and willing to please. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2020, Radda

The Radda Gran Selezione is born of high higher elevation, at 570m below the tiny abbey and truly aboard the glare of white sandy limestone with some Galestro flaking at the surface. The most lift, highest tone and brightest style, part soil and part elevation, but most of all forethought. The fact that the Mazzei decided to acquire this place in 1989, whether by brilliance, chance or both, it only matters that this is a special place today with the ability to create a beautiful and fascinating wine. The energy and finesse is next level from Badiòla 2020, fresh as it gets and with a potential to age for a decade plus. Last tasted February 2024

Badiòla out of Radda is the work of Fonterutoli (out of Castellina) though the distance between cantina and vineyard is not that great. Lovely bit of swarthy behaviour and also an airy quality so elevation surely plays a role and Mazzei clearly sees the potential in this site. High toned and a notable acetone quality though it finds a way to play nice and stay well beneath dangerous thresholds. Good work and promise is clearly the thing. Drink relatively young if best after two more years and look for 2021 to surely be a cracker example of this Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2023

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2020, San Casciano

Campione: A sample but a well nigh finished one because it has been in vessels for coming on three and a half-plus years. A Belleza not yet released because well, 2020. Biggest fruit, forested acidity and baddest tannins all conspire for a Gabbiano as substantial and powerful as there ever was. The 100 percent sangiovese aspect is a major component in the result but vintage takes the cake and eats it too. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

With Cristina Fonte – Poggio Torselli, San Casciano

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Campione: Only sangiovese, single vineyard of the name Montecapri, a Gran Selezione first made in 2013, skipped for a couple of years and resumed in 2016. Concentrated grapes but more than that a different sort and a freshness that neither Annata nor merlot seemed able to find. Spicy fruit, 30 months in those big casks and so a protected but far from oxidative example with a maximum 5,000 bottle production. This is the beginning of a project that will only get better. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Villa Le Corti Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2020, San Casciano

The original Gran Selezione for Villa Le Corti, that being Don Tommaso, incidentally labeled with its UGA while “Zac” adds the Val di Pesa suffix, as per the commune. Quite the fleshy and substantially concentrated 2020, impressively so, rich, luxe and jam-packed with flavour. A mix of 80 percent sangiovese with merlot (that will not be available in 2023 due to no production because of downy mildew). A bit woody on the palate at this youthful stage but this will pass and Don Tommaso will drink dutifully if also effortlessly through the latter stages of this one and into the first stretches of the next decade. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted twice October 2023 and February 2024

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Donato In Poggio

If Vignalparco is something to behold from the big, bad and bold vintage then Gran Selezione is not just another but an apposite matter altogether. Triply rich, fortified and tannic as a wall of hard Alberese, impenetrable and the wine just feels like it’s on the dark side of that moon. If there is one – and many have questioned the notion, but seriously this Gran Selezione is not nothing. Not hard mind you, just a force of Chianti Classico nature. Boom! Wait five years. Trust this is the truth. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2024

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feels like a very mature Gran Selezione for 2019 and so perhaps some oxidation from this sample amplified by tasting it late on day two at the Collection Looking forward to another opportunity down the road. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Casasilla 2020, San Donato In Poggio

Casasilia which can mean “the blessed house” is tied to Badia a Passignano just one kilometre away and the pre-1990 name of Poggio al Sole under the previous ownership. The flagship wine that was Riserva changed to Gran Selezione as of the 2012 vintage. Best grapes, harvested a bit later and longer macerati”on. Once fermentation and maceration are complete the “130 percent sent to barriques (between 10 and 20 percent new) is then narrowed down to its 100 number. Hard to imagine or find more suave texture and refinement which in GS translates as scorrevole. Which tells us that Poggio al Sole has as much in common with Panzano as it does with San Donato in Poggio. Playful acidity, precision and fine tuning. Runs on Swiss time if you will. A mulch of grippy tannin on the back end suggests waiting a year or two. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023 and February 2024

Cento Anni di Chianti Classico, Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2019, Castellina

Single vineyard sangiovese from Casteto at the highest eastern heights of the Western Castellina vineyard. Most freshness and elegance of all the Cecchi sangiovese and from 2019 a wine so ready to drink you will find it hard to keep any bottles in the cellar. Not that structure is an issue because Villa Rosa will mature slowly over a five year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2019, Castellina

First vintage from the one hectare vineyard, “our vision of the different sangiovese,” the dark soul and D12 (Emilia-Romagna) clone planted by Giacomo’s father back in 2002. Small bunches, strong and thick-skinned leading to a requiem of longer macerations (as many as 30-35 days). Darker of colour and a richer version of Nardi but more important is the “croccante” and “graffiante” nature of the tannins. Great acidity captured (at 6.2 tA), a full half to three-quarters higher than the Annata and Riserva. Th exposure is northeast (which makes dad look like a genius) and the soil is a very strong clay. Sees 20 months in Slavonian oak and evolution is low, slow and relatively forever. Balsamico finish and acidity (more than tannin) is the driver. Think Brunello if you like but this is purely Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A father is and a grandfather would surely be proud. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Cellole 2019, Castellina

Mainly Sangiovese with some colorino and a few splashes of merlot “that speaks Chiantigiana.” Also a 500m elevation for most of these grapes, the sangiovese planted in the 80s and converted to organic in the 90s. A stony Galestro soil opposite to the sandy clay and calcari, i.e Calcinaia around the borgo and winery. Only Cellole delivers this cool, liquid peppery swarthiness that the Classico does not show and also a combination of verdant but also distinct minerals notes. Tannins are exceptionally taut with at least two to three years remaining before they begin to truly integrate. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2023 and February 2024

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Castellina

From the oldest vineyard planted by in 1972 by the Scalerandi family, two owners before Sophie Conte’s father purchased the estate. More obvious concentration than any of the other Tregole wines but also this settled, calming and fully nourished feeling. Have a glass of Gran Selezione 2019 and it will feel like the end of a great meal without having overeaten. The vineyard delivers great material and the layers of fruit are more than apparent. Having tasted vintages going back several years now you can see the development and the acumen growing in Conte’s world. This falls right in the middle but the learning curve is showing. There is a tiny bit of oxidative character on the back palate and so this vintage is more than ready with a delicious finish that reminds of certain dry amaro. Last tasted May 2024

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The Montaperto layering of many red fruits are the crux of the perfumes and freshness out of ’19, they being pomegranate, currant and plum, juices running and so many layers to peel away. Focused vintage and “we love it,” adds Gioia. Return in a year and see just where it looks like this will go. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

San Felice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Poggiorosso 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Almost hard to believe but 2019 seems bigger, broader and in a way wilder than the 2020 Poggiorosso and yet this single vineyard Gran Selezione is a force to reckoned with, no matter the vintage. The vibrancy and especially the acidity is the wild aspect of a sangiovese that acts a bit the rebel, with cause. Quality here is tops in every respect, fruit is ripe on both ends and that acidity is really quite sweet. Splitting hairs compared to 2020 but this is something special. Amazing work from all new 500L tonneaux. Drink 2024-2037. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Villa A Sesta Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sorleone 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A mix of energetic freshness and structured depth, somewhere ideally in between where Sorleone resides in this its sixth vintage as Gran Selezione (though its was not made in 2020). First vintage with new oenologist (Attilio Pauli) will be with the 2021 though the winemaking team in the cantina stays the same. In the window beginning now or perhaps just recently and this mix of glycerin and sweet spice does well to activate the salutary and imaginative senses. Fine shape for a fine wine. 3,000-5,000 bottles per year, this being on the higher end. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2019, Gaiole

There was a local who knew the name of the vineyard and said it was called I Rialzi, which translates as “the lifted up,” or in another way of saying it, rizalto. The rocky location housed a ditch or a gully in the direction rising up towards Badia a Coltibuono. Over time the soils settled to hide the clough but the extreme rocky soils are still home to the vines. Says Lamberto Frescobaldi, “the vineyard matters most,” even more so than the estate or the denomination. In Gran Selezione terms at least. Frescobaldi was told “I don’t give a shit about a selection from you. I want a selection from one vineyard.” So, how does this make that happen, offer a taste or sense of Rialzi? It does so with aromatic volume and vigour, tension and the experience of fruit from a given vintage. As for 2019 well substantial and stress free is helpful but acidity and a wine’s anxiety are what drive Rialzi, no matter its philanthropy. In the end Rialzi is a gift, of Perano and Gaiole. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Greve

The first commercially available vintage was 2017, from the highest reaches out of Querciabella’s vineyard parcels between 450 and 530m aboard the Ruffoli hill. Picked four weeks ahead of same altitude vines in Lamole because of exposure and well, Ruffoli. Treated to a submerged cap, i.e. capello sommerso methodology, a simmer of skins kept wet just as they have been doing forever in Barolo. This means a quality of tannin that comes out by infusion as opposed to extraction and with such an ideal vintage the result is uncompromising. Freshness captured, instinct incarnate, tannic freight compact, though the layers have breezes blowing through. Precise and focused as expected and the finale lingers forever. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2024

With Susanna Grassi – I Fabbri, Lamole

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Lamole

From the oldest vines, including those planted back in 1965 and aged for two years in large cask, a.k.a. grandi botti. The old vines show what can be done from lowest of yields, highest of concentration and by way of a contract that seeks and attains the necessity of elegance. Everything about Susanna Grassi’s Gran Selezione speaks to the Lamole UGA, in sweetly herbal and savoury perfume, a floral note connected to the botany and grace under the pressure of structure so well defined. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vecchie Vigne 2019, Lamole

Old vines from Podere Castellinuzza’s high elevation Lamole location are the impetus to set this Gran Selezione apart while keeping in perfumed line with compatriots of that most unique UGA. Who does not want to own fruit from this location in today’s Chianti Classico and this family’s time has surely come. The next epoch of sangiovese from Lamole begins right here with succulence, energy and intensity. Floral and spicy, austere in a tannic way while gently rustic, but so very beautiful in all these ways. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

With Emanuele Graetz – Isole delle Falcole, Panzano

Isole Delle Falcole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Montefioralle

Just beginning to open and emerge because the vintage delivers that kind of fruit generosity but the vineyard simply will not be quiet or separate itself from this always bloody sangiovese, not even for a moment. The heavy metal presence creates the most metallic, elemental and mineral trilogy, a triptych of sangiovese, acidity and powerful tannin to equip this Gran Selezione for a decade-plus of immovable life ahead. Last tasted February 2024

The project of Emanuele Greatz, exporter of Roberto Voerzio, Il Molino di Grace, San Fillipo (Roberto Gianelli) and Barbaresco’s Russo. This is the early fruition of Emanuele’s dream, renting Panzano land in 2016 to eventually purchase and a first vintage in 2017. The land is officially Emanuele’s now. The name of the Conca or amphitheatre actually shares an affinity with the Conca d’oro, in shape, orientation and yet there is much more forest and also higher elevation. Total of four hectares planted, 1.2 up on the hill facing south at 420m and roughly two below the house, both set in Montefioralle. The final 0.8 for the Gran Selezione is in Panzano right next to Montefili and so Graetz calls it Montefili – internally.” It will be called Il Falcole. Gran Selezione 2019 is solo sangiovese sent to 30 months in big barrel combination of French and Slavonian. Purely Panzano through a Selezione of a pinpointed place and to be honest the fruit is a bit deeper and darker than many Panzano ‘19s. That said there are layers and layers to unfold, unfurl and open with high acidity from the high elevation vineyard up at 520m. Where else is Panzano (other than Montefili and Cenattoio) will express this elevation in this wild-eyed and excitable way? A harbinger of the future and initialization of the realization of Emanuele’s dream is in this glass, from this bottle. Wait three years to understand just a bit more and figure things out for 10 more thereafter. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2023 and 2024

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2019, Radda

All sangiovese and nothing but the sangiovese in one of the first iterations of Gran Selezione under the guidance of new and improved ownership. Brightest of red fruit for a concept and work in progress that seeks to deliver utter transparency for lower (relatively speaking) elevation out of Radda. Firm enough though the tannins are anything but austere. Drink early GS, again, relatively speaking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

From the first vineyard purchased by Barbara Widmer’s parents, Brigit and Bruno, back in 1980. Ripped out and re-planted in 1999 with four clones chosen from the Chianti Classico 2000 project because massal selection was not viable at the time. Great fruit, grainy structure and time needed to heal the wounds and rusticity off the wine. There is so much character and potential with almost no maturity showing yet, however those tannins and that fruit do tumble around together. Wait another year, or so. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, Radda

Like Riserva the Colle Bereto showing at the Chianti Classico Collection in 2024 is 2019 for Gran Selezione. Not quite as mature and resolved as the other appellative level but still en route and in a similar arena. More strength and power from these saucy tannins, long-chained and still visible, if also reverberating. The wood is still very much in control so be patient and allow a rendering, but also the disappearance of a mild swarthiness. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Il Poggio 2019, San Donato In Poggio

The arrival of an Il Poggio is greeted with great anticipation because luxury and fortune have beget tastings of several recent and also older vintages. So imagine what Monsanto’s 2019 will surely bring to the table out of San Donato in Poggio. No ordinary moment, but one likely to get frozen into time. Open heart and mind, dig into deeper understanding and intuitive possibility. Gran Selezione 2019 from the Bianchi family’s hilltop vineyard is sublime. Concentrated, understated, refined, precise and giving. Nurturing if edgy but always gracious and unselfish. A touch reductive, protected and of course stylish. A moment so vivid it causes ache, awe and longing. Too much waxing for a bottle of wine? Actually no but another Il Poggio for the ages. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2023

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Bottled in September of 2023 though winemaker Riccardo Nuti is keenly aware how much more time is needed and so plans are to release this Gran Selezione after a full year in bottle. Sees 20 percent amphora because frankly Montecchio is not just a Fattoria of wine (and olives), but also a “fornace” for working with clay. An original in this regard and one of the pioneers for GS aging. The ’19 sings with pure and unadulterated sangiovese aromas, explicitly San Donato in Poggio because of the red florals, citrus and sanguine character. Also brings an added layer of palate texture, the kind that settles and coats, but fruit is the medium. With time the defraying will become a glissade but for now the verticality of this Selezione is not ready to relax or relent. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Gioia, Sara and Filippo Cresti – Carpineta Fontalpino, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Dofana 2019, Vagliagli

A preview of 2019 that will shown at the Chianti Classico Collection in February of 2024 that are now finished wines “but to me they are young,” shrugs Filippo Cresti. The dried balsamic quality of 2018 is here replaced but more freshness and spirit. A richer wine in 2019 as compared to Montaperto with the wood more involved – while the wine this young is trying to figure out its way through adolescence. The clay is fully involved in just how textured and fruity Dofana acts in this inimitably generous vintage. Flesh will come, with time. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2019, Vagliagli

A 6.4 hectare vineyard at 450m which qualifies as the highest point of Dievole. A south exposure with Macigno and outcroppings of clay to deliver more power than any other estate sangiovese. The aromatics are expressly consistent with Riserva (and also Casanova) but the musculature is taut and developed. That which Riserva commits to is magnified in this fourth vintage of the Gran Selezione, none more so than the tannins which grab, grip, secure and hold on tight. They compound and reside in the arena of the austere at the finish of this profound wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Michaela Morris and Christine Lechner at Prowein 2024

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Older Vintages)

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2018, Castellina

Paronza is the name of the vineyard and comes from a hospital housed by a monastery that hosted pilgrims. Still the work of Atillio Pagli, sappy like the Riserva, fruit quality improved from the ’18 Riserva while so soft and creamy with that same kind of perceived sweetness. Ready. Last tasted May 2024

Well traveled, maturing and warm Gran Selezione from Castellina’s Casale dello Sparviero, of high aromatic intensity to match stride for stride a sangiovese poised at the ready. Herbal for Castellina though neither brushy dry or brassy, but instead a juicy bleed of fruit and flora. Solid GS through and through, equivocating and evocative of the UGA. Last tasted October 2023

Paronza is a buoyant and almost weightless, gravity defying Gran Selezione, easy of mind, body and alcohol. Aromatically reticent and a wine so young you really have to play, swirl and agitate to get any kind of emotive response. Perfume, red fruit and fresh sanguinity do emerge, followed by a sappy, almost syrupy texture dominated by liquid Galestro-willed tannins. Very Castellina, wholly vintage related and will drink well beginning two years or so from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2022

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto San Marcellino 2018, Gaiole

There is ten percent pugnitello with the sangiovese, already meeting the new requirements of the Gran Selezione. From the 2020 vintage San Marcellino will say Gaiole on the label. Aging is 25 months in barriques, tonneaux and botti, 25 per cent new oak overall. Almost three years in bottle at this stage. Finest of San Marcellino tannins are coming about ever so slowly, surely to mature over a 15 year period. Tells Marco Ricasoli, “elegance does not mean weakness. The power does not affect your mouth.” Posit tug between salinity and sapidity. Last tasted October 2023 and February 2024

So fresh, young and structured but my if there is another Gaiole Selezione with as much stuffing as San Marcellino it would be beneficial to hear about it. Thirty-plus year potential. Truthfully. Tasted May 2023

The next San Marcellino Gran Selezione is a big one, strong willed and big-boned, laced with trace schisty-marl-Galestro elements and minerals from a vineyard capable of structuring wines like no other. This is Monti in Chianti, of all the red, blue and black fruits, coming away violet purple and speaking about a season. A warm one, all the way through to October and the phenolic ripeness here is off the proverbial charts. Wow. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted February 2023

Verrazzano

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sassello 2018, Montefioralle

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valdonica 2018, Montefioralle

Emilia and Giovanni d’Orsi – Casaloste, Panzano

Casaloste Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2018, Panzano

Fine swirl of sangiovese with voluminousness liquid peppery aromas from the word go that are commanding and unrelenting. Put your nose into Giovanni d’Orsi’s Gran Selezione from late (though properly timed) harvesting for what was necessary out of Panzano. For 2018 that is because late September heat by day and cold by night meant stem ripeness, higher alcohol and captured acidity. All of which put 2018 Casaloste into fine form, big and meaty, bountiful and elastic. Bravo. Drink 205-2032. Tasted February 2024

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pecchia 2018, Panzano

Pecchia from only Pietraforte Panzano soils was IGT through the 2016 vintage, skipped in 2017 and brought into the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation in 2018 with the estates first Gran Selezione. Less transparency but clearly more polish and luxe disposition than Gallùle but what this expresses are hearty matters of spotless and seamless perfection. Structurally speaking the Pietraforte puts this sangiovese in a most precise place to establish a top position in every respect. Just 3,000 bottles produced and though there was great heat at the launch of harvest there were also low nighttime temps and all the acidity was preserved. Great graphite style and cool as an October Panzano night. Really special wine. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2023 and February 2024

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bambole 2018, Panzano

Campione: Of all the Gran Selezione samples this Le Bambole is one should be the nearest to be ready because, well it’s 2018. Now two years longer in waiting than most other unreleased samples and yet mon dieu this ’18 is still so far away from being ready. Uncanny how much Pietraforte strength Il Bambole is want to direct as itself and on our palates that feel both slaughtered and bamboozled. So befitting the name and also the vintage which delivered great late September heat. Cold nights too which is why this acidity is striking and frankly necessary. On par with 2016 which is a feat in itself. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted February 2024

Villa Trasqua Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Nerento 2017, Castellina

Nerento offers up that super important and at times rare mix of maturity and results based on time having been the necessity to allow for an approach to drinking this Gran Selezione at this stage. The wood would have been obtrusive and on top just six months before and this timing is fortuitous to say the least. Some raisin and fig with high quality acid and a balsamic sweetness woven through the tannin. Not an extreme vintage as might be expected but surely a high-toned one. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2017, Gaiole

Third vintage of Rialzi from a hottest and driest one, though always worth a reminder that Perano is high elevation Gaiole – meaning a cooler and fresher place. In Chianti Classico terms this means the vineyard and its cooling maintenance from rockiest of soils lends a much needed pulse, flux and regulating ability to ensure sangiovese’s credibility. Vigour and dewiness are preserved which allows Rialzi ’17 to grace the palate like clean early morning summer moisture on grass and bushes. Fruit was hung a little bit longer than many other single-vineyard Gran Selezione to be sure, full phenolic maturity has been acceded and the conclusion is about a full and favourable sangiovese. A unique one at that and one to surely benefit from some rest in the cellar. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted December 2023

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 2015, Castellina

In agreement with Andrea Cecchi whereby in some ways 2015 is still a baby, but on another level the maturity is there, or at least seen that wasy through one of the two open bottles. This second pour is not only the answer to a predictive moment made in September 2018 but a reconciliation of what Villa Rosa sangiovese is want to become. Youthful and yet ready, in the first stages of secondary character but at least five more years shall pass before the next phase begins. Last tasted May 2024

These are not the richest and most extracted Chianti Classico and they are truly driven by acidity, a Castellina acidity to be sure, edgy, expected or not. The red fruit is direct and linear lightning, not overly complex and certainly true to consistent form. It’s actually quite amazing to note this form of sangiovese structure as being very specific to commune, very close to the Valore Gran Selezione and recognizable for place as much as any in the entire territory. This will evolve slower than the Valore, in fact I can’t see it changing all that much in the next five years. Drink 2019-2026. Tasted September 2018

Losi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Millennium 2013, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Still quiet and reserved, far from even hinting at the end of its first millennium in bottle. Full and still in a chaste state, a textural casted Gran Selezione that exults the finest selections of Losi’s vineyards. Gives and gives some more but its best and most complex days still lay ahead. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Villa Rosa 1988, Castellina

From 1988, raised on Piaggia, the top of the Villa Rosa hill and aged in chestnut barrels. In great shape, truly well kept and the toasted chestnut aromas are those caught in a time machine. Chianti Classico and sangiovese from another era, a savoury balsamico, however that is consistent if altered because of time. Time that has softened and dried out the fruit yet the palate delivers a level of freshness that needs to be tasted to be believed. Speaks to wine being made the right way at the time and yet you wouldn’t do things this way now because the sangiovese demands evolution and a new approach. A look back that says you can peer through a portal to see changes coming and for the next 40 years. Tasted May 2024

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG

Castello Di Monsanto Vinsanto Del Chianti Classico DOCG Occhio Di Pernice 2006

Rare and different for VinSanto, here as 100 percent sangiovese and in many ways nothing like the style that comes from those made with trebbiano and malvasia. Plenty more caramel and especially spice, of nutmeg, sweet lemon and iced tea. A really fine black tea, tannic and softened by clover honey. Sweetness, acidity and impeccably balanced. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted February 2024

San Giusto A Rentennano Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG Giusto 1999

Remember that a great vintage for reds might not succeed with Vinsanto and vice versa but this 1999 just feels like ideal middle ground. Intense sweetness (around 350 g/L) with lower volatility and solid acidity. Length simply outstanding, A treacle of deep caramel and caramelized fig, brown sugar syrup and finishing spice – cardamom and nutmeg. Crazy complexity if surely one in the sweeter and softer pantheon of San Giusto Vinsanto. Last tasted February 2024

Vinsanto Giusto 1999 is from 90 per cent malvasia and 10 trebbiano dried on traditional mats then transferred to small oak (caratelli) barrels, with absolutely no botrytis allowed. The selection is extremely careful to avoid the noble rot. Perhaps the most viscous gelée of VinSanto ever put in mouth because 400 g/L of residual sugar will do that in the most concentrated and incredible of ways. The most intense VinSanto you will ever find. Could go three-plus decades further. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted February 2018

Brancaia Tasting

IGTs

Brancaia Rosé 2023, Toscana Rosato IGT

Made with 100 percent Maremma grown merlot picked earlier (mid-August!) than wine for the reds, keeping the alcohol down with light colour and high acidity. No skin contact, three months on lees for a creamy and sapid Rosato that goes down far too easy. Currants and faint strawberry but just easy and lovely. Summer go to Rosato. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Bianco 2023, Toscana Bianco IGT

All sauvignon blanc from Castellina vineyards, picked early (which would be late August) for the purpose of acidity, freshness, brightness and intensity. First Bianco was made in 2011 (though was a very different style at the time) and now the variety is a veritable facsimile of itself. Shows some aging potential for more layers to pop up and out, but not for 10 years. Crunchy and salty enough, not quite startling but surely creating a pop and a buzz on the palate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Tre 2022, Toscana IGT

A blend of all three Brancaia properties, two-thirds from Maremma and one-third Castellina/Radda fruit. The varietal blend is 70 percent sangiovese with (15 each) cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aging in tonneaux and concrete. Serious yet uncomplicated, coastal ripeness meeting Classico region acidity for layers, piques, rises and valleys in a red blend. Three layers of savour, gariga and balsamico with three distinct types of spice, some of it very related to wood. This just feels like a perfect match to veal shoulder or Ossobuco, braised in a few cups of Tuscan red wine, fresh tomato, mirepoix and saffron, then topped with Gremolata. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

With Barbara Widmer – Brancaia

Brancaia N°2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, DOC Maremma Toscana

Coastal cabernet is a unique thing unto itself and with the streak of salinity running through there is less density and brood than what might otherwise happen in today’s increasingly warming climate. There is an elegance to No. 2 and a beautiful sense of the brushy Mediterranean terroir. Tannic and finishing at dark chocolate with a shot of espresso. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2021, Toscana IGT

The mix is merlot from Radda blended with cabernet sauvignon from Castellina. Five of 15 hectares from Castellina and half (eight of 16) in Radda. All Chianti Classico area fruit and how they layer together is a matter of desire coupled with Barbara Widmer’s experience. True blue merlot with as much structure as any found anywhere this meeting of Tuscan varieties will occur. So different than Bolgheri (and obviously Maremma) but no shock to see. Seriously structured red, fine-grained tannins and intensity self-reflecting inwards and needing up to five years to expand. Very confident wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2024

Just as with sangiovese there is a marked difference between 2020 and 2021, also for merlot and cabernet sauvignon. There may have been a time when ripening (especially the cabernet) was a challenge in terms but think that way no more. Some frost damage at Easter reduced yields but the quality here is exceptional, the flavours developed and true. This will age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Wait for three because the wood is still very much in play. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Il Blu 2020, Toscana IGT

Brancaia Ilatraia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A change to the labelling begins in 2021 now with a mix of the classic label. The 2021 is expressive of more Machia Mediterranea than any Ilatraia that have come before. The brushy savour and local gariga are so prevalent on the aromatics and the palate shows great succulence for this very special red blend. Not only is the label a next generation style and idea but the winemaking also seems to follow this route. Freshness and crispy quality creates something new, vibrant and exciting for what Ilatraia is now and also going to be. Really special vintage, extraordinary and of a potential unlimited. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The repeatable 2021 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon plus (20) merlot does not equivocate as a carbon copy of the 2020, nor should it and acts to remind how Maremma vintages will alter and in turn pay heed to the terroir. This feels like Galestro in the mix, surfacing for scents of the petrichor of rocks and sea and air after a rain. Rich and elegant, flavours swirling of fruit, earth, elements, the sea, mineral and natural sweetness. Finely poised, chiseled, and structured to live a very long, good and proper opus of a life. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020, Maremma Toscana IGT

That blend since 2009 is 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. The three months of “refinement” in concrete began with the 2019 vintage and here 2020 presents a wine of more energy and freshness. Chewy but also scorrevole, gliding and sliding across the palate with this glistening and glycerol style of fruit that says so much about modern day Maremma. A full and concentrated yet never gratuitous Maremma red blend so perfect in pitch, sway and glide as it shows so much grace today, but also to do so for many years going forward. Tasted a second time, May 2024

The change for this 20-plus year-old IGT happened in 2009 when sangiovese was eliminated, petit verdot introduced and cabernet increased. Closed aromas for now, soon to change because 2020 will open much earlier than 2019 and also 2021. The petit verdot is aching to be untethered and understood, the other parts less so but will come soon thereafter. There is great personality and acidity to this 2020, a freshness unexpected and a diversity within a wine that comes in layers, marine waves and complexity. Wow vintage, again unexpected but then again, not really considering Maremma, Brancaia and 2020. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2019, Maremma Toscana IGT

From 2019 the aging process changes, still 18 months in barrel but now followed up with three months in concrete before bottling. “To give the wine time to become a unit” explains Barbara Widmer. The 2019 feels more forward than 2018, maybe because of less stress during the season with ’19 allowing the team to breath after 2018, but there is so much fruit it seems the structure and therefore potential will be lessened. Rich and more wood sensations here, a chocolate expression with ganache painted all over the dark fruit. Tannins are of very good quality though they are softer and silkier than most vintages. A seductive Ilatraia this 2019 blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018, Maremma Toscana IGT

Rich vintage with layers and layers upon others of fruit, wood, fruit, wood and more fruit. “We were very afraid because of the heat and drought after 2017,” admits Barbara Widner, which means some negative linger or hangover might have been a part of the work during the ’18 season. But luck was on the Brancaia side with good winter rains, a fine spring and balance throughout the summer, all the way to harvest. “We were super, super lucky and were able to relax.” Concentration, restrained power because freshness and really good potential still lies ahead. Could see this drinking well, like 2004 for example, 20 years forward. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2017, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable acidity from 2017 when you consider the drought and heat that occurred from winter all the way through to harvest. A vintage that could have been a disaster and the blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc seems to fit, no matter the vintage. Not only that but also the switch away from sangiovese was so smart because it could have truly been problematic in 2017. Yes this is ready to drink and yes it’s rich and extracted but once again it needs saying that acidity keeps the dream alive. Lovely work here with 2017 and a perfect Ilatraia to pour at wine dinners all over the world. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2016, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2016 is in the finest shape of any Ilatraia thus far, with great acidity and an energy that means business. Concentration yes but also layers upon layers of natural sweetness, kisses and the caress of what this wine does to nurture the palate. The most suave tannins of them all and a beauty, but also grace about the wine. Yes it it the most experienced and confident wine of the 20 in this vertical. Drink 2025-2038. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2015, Maremma Toscana IGT

The 2015 is nothing but lovely, simple easy and slowly evolving in pretty much the way you would have expected to be. For winemaker and Widmer the closest comparison would be 2004 but there is such a fruity quality (yes it is younger) and that fruit has done little to advance out of its freshest stage. Not much will happen for another two years. Will drink for a few more years on top of the few imagined five ago. Lasted May 2024

The blend changed in 2009 and here in ’15 it’s cabernet sauvignon (40 per cent), petit verdot (40) and cabernet franc (20). In a way too bad because the ’08 was quite glorious but here in a wholly antithetical way, now there is more brightness and vitality. Not that the barrel regimen is shy in any way but there’s really a lift and not merely because of vintage. Quite balanced and should age well for a few more years. Drink 2019-2024. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2014, Maremma Toscana IGT

The most challenging of vintages, with 2015 no bargain, “even for Maremma on the wet side, along with the Suzuki fly in the vineyard.” Required a major amount of selection and in the end Barbara Widmer was quite happy with the result for this blend of 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. Meanwhile the energy and persistence are more than fine and ample for the vintage with secondary character is coming on quite slowly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasting 20 years of Ilatraia at Brancaia

Brancaia Ilatraia 2013, Maremma Toscana IGT

A very good vintage for Maremma, considered tops even though the same could not necessarily be said for Chianti Classico. Loving the acidity and chalky liquidity of the 2013, a wine that was managed so well, partly because the vintage was so generous this way, but also because experience with place, blend and style have come to a very good place. Not sure this will have the same stuffing that 2012 is showing but the enjoyment now is really tops. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2012, Maremma Toscana IGT

A full, substantial and concentrated wine from 2012 that clearly shows a progression speaking to what Maremma could and will be able to do with these kinds of blends. Acids and tannins are equal and available, up to the task in support and the harmony here is second to none. Experience and acumen are on display to say that Ilatraia is truly on the correct track. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2011, Maremma Toscana IGT

If 2010 was showing top acidity and energy than 2011 takes these necessary longevity extended factors to another level altogether. What stands out here is the cabernet franc which gets more and more important in a blend with the 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. The length here is outstanding and the vintage still expressive of its longevity and future potential. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2010, Maremma Toscana IGT

The challenge of sangiovese not succeeding on the Maremma coast without irrigation meant a new blend having been initialized in 2009 and still in play through at least 2022. That would be 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc though it could vary by two percent from year to year. The acids in 2010 are remarkable, sweet and crucial to a warm and “big” year such as this. Another 2010 that surprises with its energy and also balance. The maturity into secondary epoch has happened with seamlessness and grace to put 2010 in top light. Great showing. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2009, Maremma Toscana IGT

First vintage of the new blend, kicking out the sangiovese and so now with 40 percent each petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon, plus (20) cabernet franc. About half new French wood from two sources, Sylvan and Raimond. A wildly authentic Maremma IGT, aromatics full of the coastal Macchia Mediterranea, the balsamico by the sea, the brushy savour so specific to the Etruscan Coast. Richness and great climatic interest, a feeling of the dry maritime place and wood a big part, but more as an aid and abet, not the dominant driver. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008, Maremma Toscana IGT

Quite an advanced Ilatraia from cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), the last vintage with not only this exact blend, but also sangiovese. Chewy, lots of chocolate, wood very much the dominant factor, the sort of Tuscan red that appeals to so many, especially those who were paying attention to this style back in 2007. Time in the glass helps open up more channels. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). A vintage of high acidity and exceptional structure. Has taken on as much wood as the fruit can handle or at least support. It’s a gathering of big bones with flesh still attached and a long finish. The year and the acumen are clearly on display for a project that seems to have hit its proper stride. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted September 2019

Brancaia Ilatraia 2007, Maremma Toscana IGT

Much more maturity to 2007, especially after tasting the 2006 and yet the blend is just the same as it had been going back to 2002. That would be cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), here quite integrated, with fine acids (if not quite ’05 or ’06 acids) and yet the charm here is really lovely. Very ready to go, please and make the experience a fully enjoyable one. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Ilatraia 2021-2002

Brancaia Ilatraia 2006, Maremma Toscana IGT

The blend beginning in 2002 and culminating in 2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Big vintage and there is an aromatic spicy chalkiness to ’06, owing to ripeness and also high quality tannins. Surely a wine of the times and so very specific to where the wood really dominated and the wine is just now slowing down. Wow – how does this wine now show this way with so much confidence, character and attitude? Amazing really. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2005, Maremma Toscana IGT

Remarkable vibrancy and energy from 2005, warm but balanced vintage as it was and the first to speak of the Brancaia experience for Maremma and what the young vineyards (planted in 1998) were willing to offer and eventually to mix and work with the last plants put in back in 1995. The blend from 2002-2009 was was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). More character and ultimate interest from 2005, at least as it goes for the first four vintages of Ilatraia. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2004, Maremma Toscana IGT

Good if unremarkable vintage that “you would consider wanting to have every year,” says Barbara Widmer. You feel the wood on 2004 more than the vintage before and after, rich in chocolate, chewy fruit leather centre and cocoa dustier on the back end. Same blend as with ’02 and ’03, of cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10) More evolution here but also length…and harmony. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2003, Maremma Toscana IGT

A warm year and you can smell the liquid smoke and also peppery heat on the nose but honestly the continuance from 2002 and into 2004 is surely there. The acidity is in great shape, sweet and vibrant, the finish forceful with cocoa and liquorice. Super fine and nice for the mouth from an Ilatraia where again the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10). Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Brancaia Ilatraia 2002, Maremma Toscana IGT

The initial idea behind Ilatraia was to find a place in Tuscany where you could ripen sangiovese in every and not just a here or there vintage. It was not conceived of an actual business plan back in 1998, definitely not to create a wine like Ilatraia. The first vintage was 2002 and the grapes were so good the decision was made to create this wine. And yet the vintage so maligned made it a challenge for Barbara Widmer to bottle all of the possible 20,000 bottles – and so she made just 10,000. From the start the blend was cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and petit verdot (60-30-10), now in 2024 where there is no missing the preserve of freshness. Last tasted May 2024

The blend is cabernet sauvignon (60 per cent), sangiovese (30) and petit verdot (10). Grapes come Maremma and Chianti Classico. A cool, rainy vintage and certainly no picnic for sangiovese and Chianti Classico, but pretty much a challenge in all of Tuscany. With a syrupy chocolate, iodine and balsamic quest having been reached. Has aged quite well and drinks with secondary pride, followed by a sweet finish. Drink 2019-2020. Tasted September 2019

Caparsa Mimma 2021, Toscana IGT

With 30 percent whole bunch for the first time and a much higher production because the vintage was generous this way. Also more oak and fruit, saucy, pulpy and fleshy with the greatest potential of the three Mimma (2019-2021). This will be bottled in two weeks and so it’s still an anteprima but really is a finished wine. This is the be prepared to pair with red meat sangioevse that will clean your palate withe every sip. Fine and grippy tannins will see this live a log life. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2020, Toscana IGT

Mimma is tannic, that much is clear from the first sip. Only the third vintage and mon dieu what a beautiful, fresh, clean and crispy sangovese. Love to sip and willing to lay it down. As you wish but best scenario would be to let this sangiovese have some time in the bottle. The women got is exactly right. Limited production of just 1,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Caparsa Mimma 2019, Toscana IGT

Still a beautiful IGT but wholly different to the 2020, here the second vintage of Mimma made with grapes chosen only by Gianna and Fiamma Cianferoni. Last tasted February 2024

Mimma could have been Chianti Classico, it could be Gran Selezione, dedicated to “all the girls of the area,” says Paolo in all earnest seriousness, hand-picked grapes by Paolo’s wife Gianna and daughter Fiamma. This is the flagship, small production less than 2,000 bottles, grapes from all over the vineyards, picked in the middle of harvest, during the second pass. There is a restrained intensity in this sangiovese and it does indeed make you think. That’s important, It means Gianna and Fiamma get it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Casa Emma Harenae 2022, Colli Della Toscane Centrale IGT

Harenae refers to the sandstone soil known locally as Arenaria but also what is used for terra cotta manufacturing in Impruneta. Fifth vintage for the solo sangiovese artist macerated by the process of “capello sommerso” for 60 days and aged a year in 1000L amphora. Bottled in October of 2023 and Paolo Paffi calls Harenae the “B-Side,” an ulterior way to look at sangiovese that can be a hit though it will always have its quirky, natural or alternative style. A sangiovese that is correctly and properly oxidative, drying, tannic to a great and serious degree. A tapestry woven of woolly texture that will not be denied. It’s freshness is driven by a sanguine character that is so very San Donato in Poggio. It’s just expressed in a very different way.Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Bianco Di Toscana IGT 2022

Drink straight away, fresh and salty, easy white for every day. Vermentino, malvasia and trebbiano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosato Di Toscana IGT 2022

All sangiovese, just a couple of hours run-off juice, simple and salty like the Bianco, but exaggeratedly so. Relates to the high salinity in the soils and for Rosato this is the way to speak for this wide open geographical section of Castellina. Succinct, spot on and uncomplicated glou-glou of a Rosé. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Rosso Di Toscana IGT 2021

Sangiovese blended with merlot and cabernet sauvignon, proprietary IGT blend that drinks as succinctly and direct as imagination should ask it to. Unadorned, balanced and perfectly designed for that proverbial pasta, pizza and steak house pour by the glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Superiore DOCG 2020

Pure sangiovese rom the area around Poggibonsi, organic, about 10,000 bottles and well made. Bit of vanilla and simple sappy wood flavours, but quite clean and perfectly serviceable. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Casaloste Don Vincenzo 2018, Toscana IGT

The signature wine is in ode to Giovanni’s father who helped Casaloste get its start in 1993 and this single two hectare vineyard is purposed grown for this wine alone. The vineyard delivers the most concentrated fruit and the most developed phenolics and it shows in the intensity but also form this warm vintage in the bold and compact layers of Casaloste’s sangovese. A wine first produced in 1995 (two years after the first Casaloste) and one that takes time to develop, piano, piano, lentamente, slowly but surely. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Casaloste Inversus 2019, Toscana IGT

From the merlot vineyard facing west planted in 1999, with 10 percent sangiovese. The first (2003) vintage was 50-50, as an experiment to see the relationship between the two before slowly (2005-60/40, 2007-80/20, then in 2009- 90/10) working with more merlot. The 10 percent sangiovese is just the right amount to keep the connection. Inspiration came from Giacomo Tacchis who knew that the grapes had been here not 50 but 200 years ago. Silky with a fine tannic grain running through and the similar beauty shown by Riserva 2019. Lovely, lovely wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Laura Bianchi and Giulia Cecchi – Castello di Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2022, Toscana IGT

At this point in the chardonnay’s tenure the percentage of wood is 30 percent which is a number that came into effect back in 2008, down from 50. From a Galestro strewn plot of five hectares facing northwest and still a fresh place and so a saltiness pervades, but the predominant feeling is what Laura Bianchi calls sapidity. That’s because there is a phenolic moment and also mineral grip that’s more than just or perhaps apposite to saltiness. A challenging vintage, very warm (amongst other extreme weather events) and still Monsanto’s 2022 chardonnay is bursting with energy and freshness. Flesh and richness too of course but balance is in full effect. Will this age with the best remains to be seen but today it seems to matter very little. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Chardonnay Collezione Dai Vigneti Di Monsanto 2005, Toscana IGT

Vigneti Di Monsanto were planted to a special clone of chardonnay that has always seemed so resistant to disease, especially Perenospera and Laura Bianchi tells they’ve only lost a few vines in 40 years. At the time of the 2005 vintage the vines would have been 23 years of age and it’s kind of remarkable how this 18-plus year-old chardonnay emits a vapour trail like older riesling. That’s the phenolic push-pull of salty and sapid, the dichotomy of a Monsanto chardonnay that’s always in play. A fine moment and once again proof of this unique clonal-varietal relationship at work. That said 2005 is fading like a beautiful sunset over the hills of San Gimignano. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Monsanto Sangioveto 2018, Toscana IGT

One of the original “Super Tuscans,” second to (San Felice’s) Vigorello, of 100 percent sangiovese that could not be casted as Chianti Classico when that solo performance was not permitted. The Scanni vineyard and its calcareous soils with marine sediments puts the “S” in salty, so much more so than what happens in Monsanto’s Chianti Classico. Notable connection to Giulio Gambelli, of the planting of the Grosso and in how he and Fabrizio Bianchi would meet on a daily basis to discuss wine growing and making. Verdant streak of Poggibonsi-San Donato in Poggio woods, cool and slick, saline and ethereal. Absolutely and unequivocally Sangioveto from its place but also a wine that needs time. More than many and this lengthy 2018 will surprise many by living famously but also brilliantly for nearly two decades. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Cobalto Val Delle Rosa 2021, Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana IGT

Vermentino done up three ways, in steel, wood and also amphora, for freshness, salinity and verticality married to structure and mouthfeel. Brings about a balance of all parts in not just one but several layers and level of elegance for white wines, not just from Maremma and Toscana but anywhere and everywhere. Cobalto is such a white wine, an experience that leaves you satisfied because it touches all the points that matter. Andrea Cecchi’s father was ahead of the curve with his decision to make vineyards in Maremma. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari – Cigliano di Sopra

Cigliano Di Sopra Nuvola Del Cigliano 2022, Toscana IGT

Picked earlier to preserve acidity (5-ish g/L of TA) and says Matteo Vaccari, “we work with the lees for a good resolution. You can make mistakes with sangiovese but not with trebbiano.” Texture is of a terrific natural coarseness while energy improvises, improvise upon and rights the fabric of this white. Last tasted February 2024. A mix of 75 percent trebbiano and (25) malvasia, five days whole bunches for a quick syringe of carbonic and then a short, old wood stay. Comes away with just that quick strike of matchstick and a finish at 11 percent alcohol. Citrus is very lemon, juiced and gelid like curd but what stands out is the dry extract and sweet tannins. This can and will age – there is no doubt. Picked on September 17th, 2023 – a week later than previously – on the 24th. Less than 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2023

500 Years of Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia Mauvais Chapon Rosato Metodo Classico 2018

Prequel: an intimate tale of Renaissance Florence; a description of the history of the Chianti area and the Capponi family up to the purchase of Villa Calcinaia. No not 1244, 1352, 1435 or even a reminiscence for Pier Capponi to 1494 but the toasty, gingered-oxidative style does suggest an older bubble. The name conjures antiquity, Chapon as Capone for Cappone, French influenced, as in Champagne method sparkling wine nearly 50 months on its lees and finishing dry as the Greve valley in a hot season. Orange skin, reduced lemon, lemongrass herbal, a kiss of pace (or “pace”) and a brush with sage success. Spicy, high acid, unrelenting and long. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi Villa Calcinaia AD 1613 Rosso Toscana IGT 2011, Toscana Rosso IGT

The High Renaissance; from the Renaissance to the Grand Duchy, life at the villa and how it was organized. Old, alive and well, one-third each sangiovese (with mammolo and malvasia nera) in ode to the nearly 150 Chianti properties, especially villas owned by the Capponi in the 16th and 17th centuries. Alive more in spirit than corporeal standing because fruit fully waned has given way to frutta di bosco, secco and a creamy chestnut purée. Acids are persistent, the wine hangs loosely but tough enough to keep on keeping on. Tasted May 2024

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Rosso 2006, Colli Toscana Centrale IGT

World’s largest voluntary emigration, red gravy and Chianti; the Chianti Classico; the Capponi family plants the first non-promiscuous vineyard in the area. The Bastignano vineyard’s top estate drop comes out six years after conversion to organics and 10 years after the help of Roberto Bandinelli brought Calcinaia into its present state. Only 168 bottles (pus 50 magnums) were produced for this higher pH (3.44) and low alcohol 2006 (12.21 abv) for something that lasts with a continuance of acidity, though the fruit is dried, leathery, liquid cocoa flavoured and marked by a cupboard full of spice. A warm vintage that has evolved quite rapidly, or at least indicative by this bottle. Drink up with haste. Tasted May 2024

Dievole Trebbiano 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

The first vintage was 2017, originally aged in French wood but now in casks made by a Rufina craftsman called Carmignana. The mix is 80 percent Tuscan oak and (20) chestnut for trebbiano as a white in many ways acting more like a red. At least in terms of structure and coming form the west bank of the Arbia where a mix of soils bring all the elements to the vines. Harvested in mid October, incredibly and famously so, a new frontier for this area, a wine of acid and texture, notably phenolic, made rich by 10 months in the wood. Delivers that honeysuckle and acacia sensation, partial malolactic creaminess and a finishing note of honey. Good succulence and then length. Did not expect this level of complexity and it just might age for a spell. 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Querciavalle Malvasia Nera Ritmo 2022, Toscana IGT

The current vintage of the malvasia is the one that makes Valeria Losi think of Spring. The earliest roses, also not quite but maybe hinting at violets, but what it brings are flowery sensations, intense and stronger than fruit. This is a matter of eight to ten years ago really getting down and into vinifying malvasia on its own and finding the best of the variety for what it can do alone. It’s a tradition but a familial one and very specific to Losi. Super integrated tannins, non-aggressive and fine. A most unique and special wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Cavalier Tranquillo 2022, Toscana Rosso IGT

A simple red, the way Valeria and Riccardo Losi’s grandfather used to make Chianti Classico when white grapes were permitted. Just a spice of white grapes, five percent in this vintage for a light, crunchy, fresh and simple red. Fun Rosso. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Famiglia Losi Rondò 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Rondò, a kind of music but there happens to be a grape also called this way – but this gives the way of a round leaved foglia tonda and so this is a matter of onomatopoeia. Round and yet forceful, tannic and so implosive, intensely so. Mon dieu. What a massive but drinkable wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2009, Toscana IGT

What do you remember about 2009? “The problem was in August with one very hot week (40-plus degrees) that stopped the plants,” says Luca Martini. Sangiovese however is a very resilient variety. Most thought the wines would have no staying power and they would have been wrong. This shows great freshness and subtle spice, more than amazing for a 15-ish year-old sangiovese. Still showing in the early to middle stages of secondary. Fine acidity, not so high but special. Supportive and always the catalyst to make the fruit sing. A remarkable showing for Percarlo and a wine drinking perfectly right now. Will linger this way for five or more years. “It may not have the potential to develop more complexity, “ says Luca, “but it will stay like this for many more.” Like Barolo, in a way. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Utopie Grand Cru Doublé, Prodotto En Infiascato Dell Azienda Atipica, Morraiole 2008

A collaboration between Luca Martini and Roberto Voerzio, 50-50 Percarlo (sangiovese) and Voerzio Barolo (nebbiolo), more for fun at the time, for shits and ironically serious giggles than anything else. The question of course is why and can these two highly opinionated grapes work well together? Is the sum greater than the parts? Well, no of course but try to think about this in a different way. Only produced twice, in 2008 and 2010, the idea (and label design) by (journalist) Barton Anderson. Luca thought it was oxidized from the beginning so he called Roberto who replied, “you don’t know nebbiolo.” No trust for two years but then it began improving and hit its peak two or three years ago. The nebbiolo is more dominant, especially the style of the tannins and the fruit darker, a dusty example, more typically nebbiolo. Floral note just has to be Percarlo, that and the tufo mineral but still the nebbiolo wins. Maybe 2010 will be the opposite. The idea came from Maurizo Castelli and the sangiovese meets nebbiolo at Volpaia. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

With Bernardo, Corso, Margherita and Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi, Panzano

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2021, Toscana Centrale IGT

The village of Flacciano, the old Latin name that became Panzano, though there is still a place in the vineyard’s valley that bears the name. The name of the church where the cross was located in that valley before the 18th century. The church where you made a payment of “indulgenza,” so that HE would pardon and gift your place in paradise. The 2021 is a truly generous if still shy Flaccianello of that necessary wish for balance between substantial fruit and structure, high acidity and an overflowing mouthful of pure sangiovese. Seems to taste lighter and hide alcohol, so much more so than it is truly built upon and the age ability is very great. No other sangiovese expresses the luxe and voluptuous capabilities of sangiovese grown on Pietraforte in Panzano like Flaccianello. That’s just a fact and yes it is true that some see this archetype in terms of densities and ponderosity. Consider what matters most. Balance determines outcome and 2021 is right there where it needs to be. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2020, Toscana Centrale IGT

Very little movement from the magnanimous 2020 Flaccianello that made the most of its Pietraforte and there will be no doubt that it will age as well as just about any vintage of the last 40 years. The 2021 is conglomerate sandstone incarnate, of mineral and fruit bonds unbreakable and the fruit to shine through binds tied strictly tight. Last tasted February 2024

The new generation says “Flaccianello is it’s own thing and I don’t want it to become something else.” The words of Bernardo Manetti and yet Dad will say. “It will become Gran Selezione – before I retire.” Them’s promising words for a wine of Pietraforte tannins and from 2020, another season for great concentration. Focused and precise and while tight there is something more immediately beautiful and gratifying about Flaccianello 2020. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted October 2023

I Fabbri Rosato Castle Ros’ E’ 2023, Toscana IGT

Reserved sort of Rosato, lithely tart, malic and a colourful display that marks a stylistic choice for Susanna Grassi’s first kick at the blush can. The acidity of Lamole is the catalyst and the driver for expression and result. Just perfect with salumi artigianale and hard, salty cheese. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

Two things about Gratius, not just in this vintage, but two things that really stand out. One is how far from dark and opaque this vintage is when you think about how big and dark the wine should be. Second is how great a nose, or says Morganti, “it has a good nose,” realistic in tone, but the Gratius comment is as understated as anything he will ever say about anything. This is elegance and red fruit sangiovese incarnate, open and floral, so different in a complete way than any or all of the three appellative CCs. A new label design for 2020, busier, with more symbolism and commentary than ever before. Last tasted May 2024

Unlike 2020 Riserva the underbelly of structure, depth and layered acidity combine for aggressiveness and tension. Bigger Gratius in 2020 with potential as high if not higher than that of 2019. A wall of sound, structure and vision. Tasted February 2024

Campione: “With Gratius we work in a different way, aging in barriques and tonneaux,” explains Iacopo Morganti. From 2022 the aging will happen in 15 hL Austrian wood. Big wine from 2020 and that is not written, spoken and pronounced lightly. It is the vintage, hot and heavy, a romance between sangiovese and weather that does not happen so often. A lustfully romantic wine but be patient and allow the friendship and the longevity of the union to develop. Two years in wood and now needing a “cleaning” by way of vegetable gelatine (vegan, 3 g/l per 4hl) and then bottled by the end of the year. Very tannic finish. This should be Gran Selezione. It’s single vineyard and arguably the top wine. Starting with 2020 the artwork changes on the label with each vintage. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Molino Di Grace Gratius 2019, Toscana Rosso IGT

Today it is worth talking about the difference between Gratius and Chianti Classico (as a combined mix of all three levels) because the freshness and qualities delivered by the field blend varieties create a posit tug between salty and sapid. Gratis 2019 is getting close to resolving the wood and its chalky river of tannin. Big and bountiful, a buzz of energy plugged in and time still the ally. Last tasted February 2024

Gratius will make a very high quality Gran Selezione and the time is nigh to accord it the designation. All the qualities are inherent and intrinsic to the coming status, namely concentration, finest silken grains of texture and balancing tannin. Come now, the future is poetic and gracious. Tasted October 2023

Choosing not to compare Gratius to Chianti Classico at any level, let alone Gran Selezione, is wise and for several reasons. For one thing the blending in of canaiolo and colorino changes dynamics by setting and settling acidity, elevating pH and stabilizing colour. For more reasons check out the manual but here are the Coles notes. Gratius delivers two-toned liquorice, more direct solar radiated brightness, finer and yet less immediately understood structure and a chewiness that sets it apart. What matters is here is that Gratius is the representative for the single San Francesco vineyard and so it is a profound IGT ready, willing and able to become a wine graced with the Gallo Nero and labeled as Panzano. Two new Austrian casks will conceive 3,900 bottles going forward and the future is all about DOCG quality at the highest appellative level. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2021, Toscana IGT

Not released but already bottled. A bigger Vecchia Vigna, if surely because the old plot is a more than conjunctional mix of 70 percent sangiovese with ciliegiolo, colorinio, caniaolo, malvasia and trebbiano. if you compare to the 2022 barrel sample this ’21 now rests in a quieter, somewhat closed phase. Also a palate texture of silk and glycerol but acids are raging. This demure of aromatics marching alongside and matched up against intelligent if also incredible lift does the kinds of things to the palate that the Grand Selezione simply does not. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2020, Toscana IGT

The crunchiest old vines field blend that anyone will ever taste, anywhere such wines are made. Why, well simpy because it is made with sangiovese plus reds and a white grape. So why were white wines planted with reds? To help fix the colours of the red, to add acidity and also to sweeten for table grapes, wrapped in wire nets to keep the animals and birds away. A cultural inclusion and a heritage imperative. This is so young, much like the GS 2020, immovable, powerful and tannic. But there are more fruits involved, especially cherries but also citrus. Tons of citrus. Almost like corbezzolo but also pomegranate. So fascinating! Last tasted February 2024

An apposite vintage to 2018 for this unparalleled field blend of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano though since 1948 much has changed and more sangiovese planted means less interruption or intrusion from the gaggle of other grapes. Just as juicy and gregarious while also vertical and filled with old school tension but also charm. Mid-weight and also alcohol, approximately 14 percent but this is a valley of elevation and woods so freshness just fills the air. This is very special. The 2018 was just a bit loose by comparison. Tannin on the back end suggest waiting two years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna 2018, Toscana IGT

Richer and rounder by a mile as compared to 2021 and 2020 (with 2019 not released because of some Brettanomyces, akin to Soldera to be honest). Crunchy acids and succulence, tart with natural sweet edginess and lots of wood still to resolve. The 2020 and 2021 hide the barrel or better integrate it with finer acumen. Last tasted February 2024

The plot was originally planted in 1948 to sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, malvasia bianca and trebbiano. Hard to find a field blend like this anywhere. Twenty plus percent is original vines and the rest planted, but also restored in 1982. Emanuele Graetz re-planted 1,000 (sangiovese) plants in 2022. Spends 18 months in older wood and yes, this is what you would expect, though how could you possibly know what to expect? Produces only 6,000 bottles from nearly two hectares and the purity is so real, with verticality, some leathery maturity but much more so a juiciness that determines the true spirit of the wine. Is this ready? No, not quite but man you want to drink it. Clean, honesty and remarkably focused despite the potential for tohu vavohu. Picked on the 24th of September. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2023

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2021, Toscana IGT

Merlot 2021 is another beast, tannic as the GS and VV but with a different sort of fruit sweetness and rounder disposition. Red fruit incarnate, a sweet an sour raspberry but a dark one, not the kind from Guatemala. Very Tuscan merlot, no in fact wholly Chianti Classico area merlot. No try again – distinctly Falcole merlot. The place always wins. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Isole Delle Falcole Merlot 2020 2018, Toscana IGT

Merlot softens a bit sooner and while this bottle (at this moment) might feel just a touch mature the rest of the wine’s parts are all in perfect pitch. Lift is weightless and elevated, acidity sweet and touchless, tannins tight and in control. In the end the sand and Galestro rule the fruit to remind of place. A place called Falcole. Last tasted February 2024

Will be called Auré which stands For Maurizio and Loretta, owners of the property who have sold to Emanuele and are responsible for planting the merlot in 1978. Just six rows making 1,200 bottles maximum and one of the few old vines examples gone solo in the Classico area. I mean you have to taste this merlot to believe. Plenty of fruit but red with no tar, char or smokiness. Instead all perfume, picked a week ahead of sangiovese, nothing drying or leathery but just the sweetest textures, aromas and tannins. A great site and yes merlot is special for where it comes. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2023

Jurij Fiore & Figlia Occhiorosso Diforì 2021, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

The word diforì means “drunk” in old Tuscan, as when you would ask someone with red eyes, “are you drunk?” Therefore occhiorosso the grape and its translation as “red eyes.” Jurji Fiore grafted material from Sebastiano Capponi onto American rootstock in a rented vineyard called “Clos de l’Ingénieure” in Lamole surrounded by a short stone wall and the owner is in fact an engineer. The first vintage was 2019 (of only 75 litres) after 18 months aging in a demijohn’s worth. No production from 2020 and though the quantity was high enough to use a few casks, Fiore chose to continue in demijohn for the 2021 simply because it worked so well from that 2019. Nothing else smells or feels like this, so far from sangiovese and yet so very Rosso from inside the Chianti Classico territory. Some might at first feel something sangiovese about it but characteristics differ for this rare grape discovered by Professor Roberto Bandinelli of the University of Florence. Bandinelli was incidentally the consultant for Capponi’s Villa Calcinaia. Wait on this tannic and rustic red soloist for its legs to stretch out and charm to be released. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia Lassù A Lamole 2022, Alta Valle Della Greve IGT

From the vineyard at Castello di Lamole near to Sono Cosi, down below the road, north facing and surround by wood. Only receives an hour of sun in winter and maybe two or three in summer. Freshest of places and especially for trebbiano. Jurji Fiore considered planting only chardonnay but wanted an Italian variety. Dad suggested famoso from Romagna and so he grafted some, along with chardonnay from Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Lassù is a blend of the three, at the time to fill a tank and now its the recipe. Spice, body and freshness fill the space of this wine, from the three varieties emulsified together. A balanced trilogy from which you don’t feel anything too much, or weight for that matter and the three barrels of new, one and two year old do exactly what’s needed to lift, place and show this Lamole white blend. A bi-phenolic white, at times waxy and herbal, of high level citrus preserve and of an intensity that makes sure to hide the wood. Sara Fiore says it is very dissetante meaning thirst quenching. Fourth vintage and now in a well developed place, style and effect. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Jurji Fiore E Figlia l’Amore Classico Vino Spumante Di Qualità 2021

Second “just for fun” attempt at sparkling wine for Jurji Fiore (and he wasn’t happy with the first) with this having just been disgorged on January 26, 2024. Metodo Classico, blanc de noir, 400 bottles produced. A play on words between Lamole and Amore, sangiovese di Lamole. Great energy, toasted, gingery and all the spice comes out because it’s Pas Dosé, dry as the desert. All the fruit comes from Lamole, a sort of green harvest, in the first week of September more or less. Brilliant second effort. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Fonterutoli Concerto Di Fonterutoli 2020, Toscana IGT

The first of the Fonterutoli Super Tuscans born in 1981 of sangiovese with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon in Castellina at 350m of elevation. The vineyard is close to Ser Lapo where clays predominate. The sangiovese sees time in tonneaux while the cabernet sauvignon goes to barriques. Gives some muscle and punch with vanilla and lavender notes and fine tannins. The vintage is big and also lifted, quite so which means time is needed to settle the score. The tannins are austere and commanding at the finish. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello Di Fonterutoli Siepi 2021, Toscana IGT

Siepi (first made in 1992) comes from the original vineyard aboard a plateau and 240m, from two parcels, one sangiovese and the other merlot. The latter was planted in the 1980s as an alternative to colorino and to help soften the austerity of the sangiovese at the time. The decision was made then too make a 50-50 blend, “a dream of a perfect wine,” says Francesco Mazzei, “of roundness, colour and style.” The sangiovese dominates today because things have changed with the territory’s climate and soils supporting mature levels of ripeness and finesse from the indigenous grape. The shift is welcomed and applauded because more than ever Siepi represents the identity of the place. Could have been 100 percent merlot 32 years ago “but we could not imagine a wine without sangiovese.” As it must. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Mazzei Belguardo Vermentino Superiore 2021, Maremma Toscana IGT

A Tuscan coastal varietal white made from four clones and partially aged on skins for six months in amphora. The genesis is from 2011 though the concept has morphed to create the textural wine that it is today. Two of the clones are Corsican, the other two Sardinian. Fresh, clean and bright with that skin contact salve upon the palate, without weight or residue left behind. Slides and glides easily, extract and tannin are high while seasoning is sea salt and white pepper. If you like chenin blanc and/or grüner veltliner than this should appeal to you. “I think in ten years 50 percent of the wines in the Maremma will be vermentino,” predicts Francesco Mazzei. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingarella 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingarella is the Greek gypsy daughter with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and colorino. All co-fermented from vines planted in the right zones where sangiovese should not be planted. Humidity zones has much to do with the decisions and so merlot will grow in the cooler locations, the franc in the highest. The young vines make this wine and while it’s very dark berry it’s also liquorice, sweet herbs, drying tannins and variegated richnesses. Violets and dark fruit perfumes but also this vivid quality. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Tzingara 2022, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tzingara is the Greek gypsy mother and the wine from the older vines, powdery in perfume that really comes through in the duality of cabernets. They, the merlot and the petit verdot make for a Tuscan wolf in Bordeaux knit sheep’s clothing for a blend that is super fresh, tight, and floral. You can really chew this wine equipped of a palate that is like fresh leather but also noted in how juices are squeezed out to be swirled as it is worked by your palate. Great Scott fruit and even finer acidity captured. Super fun wine. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted February 2024

Montevertine Pian Del Ciampolo 2022, Toscana IGT

Mainly sangiovese with bits of canaiolo and colorino, first made in 1991 which was incidentally a cold and rainy season that followed the great 1990. A vintage when Martino Manetti’s father Sergio found himself in position possessive of second, third and fourth level quality grapes. Why not make something to drink? Everyone loved this wine right away. Made here and there but persistent demand determined producing it every year starting in the late 90s. Essentially the pressed wine from la prima Le Pergole Torte and seconda Montevertine. Great freshness from Pian del Ciampolo, as in the “plains of Gianpolo,” as per Dante’s Divine Comedy where Ciampolo appears in Canto XXII of the Inferno. Not much more than a resourseful modicum of structure and truthfully while this could be the equivalent of a Chianti Classico Annata the style and effect are purely Radda in Chianti Montevertine. Ripe acidity, slight Macigno chalkiness and this feeling that the plants and grapes have and are in a 15 year midst in their adjustment to climate change. You would never know this was a wine that came from a hot vintage. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine 2021, Toscana IGT

A warm but balanced vintage, harvest in the first week of October, “the right time for us,” says Martino Manetti. From the vineyards planted in 1984 onwards, infusing fruit born in blocks from 1997, 2000-2008, 2012 and 2014. No barriques, only Slavonian cask and always made in the same way, going back to the oenological days of Giulio Gambelli and through the more current work of Paolo Salvi. Manetti is the first to admit that oenology is not his strongest suit and so a consultant has always been integral to getting the most out of these wines. The 2021 is a profound matter of subtlety and strength, with restraint and power being the hallmarks of Montvertine, but maybe here a bit more fruit, florals and near full-bodied punch as compared to some other vintages. Singular because, well Montevertine but this is truly a matter of the place above all else. There is a Macigno streak running through that speaks in terms defined as Radda and the acidity is expressly Raddese but again, the particularity of the 2021 is Montevertine. A wine made to tell a story of where it was conceived and also where it will go. Could imagine tasting a 2001 and/or a 2011 today and the wines would reveal as variations of a replicable performative theme. Still, with respect to this wine, it would be best to wait two years before seeing the true (2021) vintage light. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Giacomo Nardi – Nardi Viticoltori, Castellina

Nardi Viticoltori Farfaro 2022, Toscana Bianco IGT

Farfaro is the yellow flower that appears in the vineyards to mark the advent of Spring. Blends 80 percent trebbiano toscano and (20) malvasia chianti. “For me the white grapes are the last that I pick” explains Giacomo Nardi, simply because that’s how long they take to mature. From 270m on clay with a mineral stone called lignite, used for fire, a.k.a flint stone, as opposed to brown coal. Honeyed and fresh, dry and so very spring incarnate. You could close your eyes and imagine that you are drinking chenin blanc. Drink the you know what out of this clean white. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Baccheri 2021, Toscana Rosso IGT

Baccheri is an ode to Giacomo’s grandparents, 60 percent sangiovese with (40) merlot, aged in older barriques and tonneaux. The gastronomic red, restaurant ready, fresh and the kind of wine to fill the mouth with soft waves of clean fruit. A fine example in a sea of Tuscan IGTs where consumers get very lost. Baccheri is easy to find. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Nardi Viticoltori Serrico 2020, Toscana Rosso IGT

“This dream is possible because of what my father has done.” Though in general Giacomo may not love merlot, he makes an exception and put this together in a way that rises above the 100 percent new barrique aged soft chocolate examples. This ages 24 months in used barriques, followed by a selection of the top of the top. First vintage was 2017, followed by 2019 and this being the third. Elegant and rich, acids full and supportive, length outstanding. One of Chianti Classico’s top IGTs. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2020, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Tasted side by side with the ethereal 2019 and so 2020 by comparison is bigger, broader and more muscular. No shock there when you consider that when a vintage like this comes along there will be darker fruit and more of everything each time it happens. This is a factor of climate change that is not always considered, that the goalposts are moving and while sangiovese’s reaction is up and down, the median point continues to shift forward. Digressions aside this ’20 simply needs more time. The bones are so solid, upright and of a density that any wine of hopeful structure would die for. Sturdy like a mature “quercia grande,” immovable and secure. Less connection to the past but still the DNA is strong – it’s just that it shows this in terms of tannic austerity and foundation. Rich and intense, wood more noticeable and patience required. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Podere Capaccia Querciagrande 2019, Colli Della Toscana Centrale IGT

Not only are Herman De Bode & Fanny Huygen restoring the borgo of Podere Capaccia, they are also doing their part to resurrect the past. Querciagrande comes from sangiovese vines planted in 2007 and when winemaker Alyson Morgan arrived in 2012 she wanted those vines to produce this wine. To rekindle the spirit within the place and the wines that were famous for their particularity. This vintage in particular reminds of a kind of red fruit from another era. There is a soft-spoken and simple charm about its ways, along with a generosity, kind spirit and most of all a nurturing for our palates. Very Capaccia yet Querciagrande is ushered into today’s world while maintaining a link to the past. Top vintage for what is surely the goal. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted February 2024

Podere La Cappella Oriana 2020, Toscana IGT

Varietal vermentino, not usual for the Classico area yet here sense is made in San Donato in Poggio with winds from the Ligurian Sea blowing in, unhindered, no barriers in the way. First made in 1998, grafted over and then restarted in 2014. Not a coastal vermentino but one particular to the soil of Chianti Classico. Silken, glycerin mouthfeel, ripe, almost akin to viognier. The wine’s label by artist Antonio Manzi pays tribute to Bruno Rossini’s wife. Spicy finish, visceral and textural, again so reminiscent of viognier and without the salinity of the sea. Sapidity indeed. Approx. 2,500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and May 2024

Poggio Al Sole Sangiovese Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Speaking for his father Johannes Davaz it is Valentino who explains that there was no Bianco to pour for guests and also friends at the winery. Nor was there a Bianco from sangiovese available anywhere nearby. Davaz rented a chardonnay vineyard “for practice” and so white wine has been made since 2016. In 2019 the first vintage of sangiovese bianco was produced, “in purrezza.” Valentino notes that if you harvest too early, like it’s Rosé, nothing good will come. “What we have learned,” says Valentino, “is that anything less than 12.5 percent alcohol will result in boring wine. You need to find the sweet spot.” Johannes has now spent 10 years trying to understand and figure out the moving target. Practice makes (this current level) of perfect and so just 4.5-5.5 months of lees aging puts the white sangiovese in a world occupied by the likes of (top level Umbrian) trebbiano spoletino, super pure, salty and satisfying. Substantial palate presence and most of all authentic. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted December 2023

Manfred Ing – Querciabella, Greve

Querciabella Camartina 2020, Toscana IGT

A blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon with (30) sangiovese, also fruit coming off of estate vines upon the Ruffoli hill. Yes sangiovese is involved but a warm and bold vintage delivers full on, rich and throttled cabernet sauvignon treated in such a restrained and elastically stretched away. That said the youth and immovability put this is linear, vertical yet sleek and suave way. There can be little doubt that this 2020 will have an ability to age with the best of the Camartina so being in any kind of a hurry would be a damn shame. Shy now, two to three years away from just beginning to open and bloom, four to six from what will begin to be its early realities. There is some brotherly fighting happening now but these are varietal siblings that will always get along. They will have each others’ backs. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Palafreno 2020, Toscana IGT

A reminder that this 100 percent merlot became this way after the disasters of 2002, 2003 and 2004. Had been a blend before those nasty vintages. Merlot rarely shows lift and this 2020 has it, almost sangiovese attitude in a way, but obviously a Ruffoli thing. Is this succinctly Ruffoli or merlot? Has to be both but this vintage sways in a terroir direction, neither good nor bad but simply what it is. Calcareously chalky, grippy by sandstone mineral and climate directing a child’s every move. Palafreno 2020 does what needs. The highest production of the last 15 years which means a whopping 6,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted February 2024

Querciabella Batàr 2021, Toscana IGT

The blend is 50-50 pinot bianco and chardonnay though 2021 lends a bit of a percentage towards the former. Low quantity vintage though it can never be forgotten that an abandoned vineyard in the early days delivered the original 100 percent pinot bianco. Was called “Bâtard Pinot” back in 1988. In 1992 chardonnay was added and the pinot was dropped. Then the Bâtard became a French faux-pas but the Milanese love child continued and finally the D was dropped. Still the homage to Bourgogne always hides under the covers. Skins are truly important for this ’21 and textures are everything. Are these components fine-tuned and refined to a level that really exults the wine Querciabella is trying to make? The answer is yes, in another way than before, though this current (already to market) vintage is so young it’s a crime to even discuss. Balance is spot on, subtlety and soft spoken voice sending positive messages and vibes, but ultimately it needs to be revisited in two or three years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024

Rocca Di Montegrossi Geremia 2018, Toscana IGT

A mix of merlot and (20 percent) cabernet sauvignon that may not be a wine of appellative origin but make no mistake. This shows Monti in Chianti as well as most though with an added richness and textural weave reminding us that this is in fact not sangiovese but an ulterior mix of the vinous and the opulent. Success with other varieties that grow very well in this southern part of Gaiole given acidity and freshness as a factor of the land littered with Alberese soils. The mix of wood is 10 percent new, (30) second passage, (50) third and finally (10) fourth. Spice and spiciness, from cinnamon through nutmeg and then the accumulation of finest expatriate grape tannins. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Pietraforte 2015, Toscana IGT

A blend but the cabernet sauvignon is 98 percent, with (2) petit verdot. Says Dario Faccin, “for us considered one of the great vintages. “The vineyard is 42 years of age as of the 2015 vintage, the Alberello training now changed to Guyot back in 2013. Philosophy the same, berries selected manually beginning in late October and into early November. The softest extraction at low temperatures for 48 hours to fix essential colour, followed by 25-26 days of maceration and then malolactic in new French barriques. These barrels move on to be used for Riserva (Chianti Classico) in their second year. These are the most refined and softest tannins in Tuscan cabernet sauvignon, so much so that you can drink this now, though in fact it is already more than eight years old. It being a current release tells so much about how perfectly timed the decisions have been, all the way through. Adds Faccin, “history is really important and the wine is history, not the conversation.” Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Carobbio Piluka Pinot Bianco 2022, Toscana IGT

Now the fifth harvest and while the vineyard has changed, especially with respect to maturation, though the work in the cellar remains the same. Dario Faccin has planted two more hectares and by 2026 there should be 25,000 bottles in production. Grapes are kept at zero degree temperature for a day, fermentation is cloudy and the wine in old oak is held for a year. Acidity is upwards and above 6.5 g/L, high and mighty for a Tuscan white wine. Creamy palate, acidity that pops and most important truly ripe fruit. If you like top shelf Sancerre, Chablis Premier Cru and chenin blanc from old vines in the Western Cape then this pinot blanc will be something special for you. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tolaini Sangiovese Mello 700 2021, Toscana IGT

Single site sangiovese grown at 700m on the western slope of Monte Luco, less than two hundred metres lower than Monte San Michele which at 893m is the highest peak of the Monti del Chianti. Luco is a place that just 10 years ago nobody would consider trying to ripen sangiovese and yet here we are. This has to be the highest planting in the Chianti Classico territory though IGT is the labelling because that elevation is above the parameters, though truth be told this was always going to be an IGT. For the time being. Welcome to the future, though Mello 700 is a costly endeavour, a project that requires the implementation of heroic agriculture and 50 euro ex-cellar pricing is the requiem. Aromas are incredible for this second vintage. Perfumes act the part of Lamole and/or Radda but the real factor is mountain air. Meaning freshness and stylistically speaking you might imagine something like nerello mascalese from Guardiola on Etna Nord. This location is one of ice and snow, not to mention hail but vines here actually sleep through winter. They awaken and by harvest time ripeness happens, though at least for now a verdant streak will always run through the sangiovese. A truly beautiful wine this is and my, what a discovery. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted February 2024

Villa A Sesta Vas Oro 2019, Toscana IGT

The cabernet franc was planted approximately 15 years ago and this marks the second year as a varietal wine, hopefully to stay this way for a good long time. That said with only 3,000 bottles produced it’s spoken for, but so worth pouring to speak for what the grape can do from Castelnuovo vineyards. It really tastes like cabernet franc with notable chocolate and pyrazine then back again. Muscular franc, toned and handsome. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

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Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Montalcino Previews 2023: Brunello DOCG 2019, Brunello Riserva DOCG 2018 and older vintages

Feb5

Benvenuto Brunello 2023, Montalcino

Benvenuto Brunello 2023 in Montalcino and Toronto, the 2019 vintage, extreme climate events, preventative agricultural measures and 285 wines tasted

This lengthy report is Godello’s most comprehensive coverage of Montalcino to date. On November 28th, 2023 Benvenuto Brunello events took place worldwide, including in the two Canadian cities of Vancouver and Toronto. It was Godello’s honour and indeed his privilege to present the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG to more than 150 sommeliers, trade, media and staff at Aria Ristorante in Toronto. The tasting was a big deal. There were many attendees in the room room who had heard Godello say this before. “No one of sound mind passes up the opportunity to taste Brunello from Montalcino.” The Toronto event received more than 350 requests for seats and those who secured a spot were afforded the opportunity to taste more than 70 Brunello di Montalcino in a very civilized way. A dozen sommeliers were on hand to pour and allow every taster to get through all the wines in the most efficient manner, to discover two vintages of these profound wines. The sangiovese available were an impressive collection from 34 archetypal producers.

Presenting at Benvenuto Brunello at Aria Ristorante in Toronto – November, 2023
Image (c) Draga – Front Row Images Inc.

Godello’s presentation happened less than a week after returning from eight days spent at Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino where he tasted more than 280 sangiovese. Of that number 60 percent were from the 2019 vintage, including the Annata split between the Classica, Vigna, Etichetta and Altra Tipologia. He also tasted two dozen 2018 Riserva along with some older vintages at estate visits to Biondi-Santi, Canalicchio di Sopra, Cortonesi, Gaja – Pieve Santa Restituta, Giodo, Il Marroneto, La Magia, Le Chiuse, Le Potazzine, Podere Le Ripi, Poggio Anitico, Salicutti, Talenti and Valdicava. At the anteprima in Montalcino 118 producers were represented with multiple wines available from each, including for the DOCs of Rosso di Montalcino and Sant’Antimo. Less than half that could have been there but there are several reasons for the absences. For some producers the quality of the wines do not arrive at peak form when the November anteprima comes around. Many bottle their Brunello in May because “that’s when the Annata are ready” but it also allows a rest period for six months in bottle ahead of Benvenuto Brunello and eight before a January release. Then there is the control factor – not being able to test each bottle yourself and to trust other professionals to make sure your wines are showing at their best. It’s tricky and is not a system or timing that works for everyone.

Benvenuto Brunello at Aria Ristorante in Toronto – November, 2023 Image (c) Draga – Front Row Images Inc.

Extreme climate events and preventative agricultural measures

Montalcino is just 73 kms to the seaside village of Marina di Grosseto and so while it may be an inland growing area it’s proximity to the sea and its protection to the immediate south from Monte Amiata do create a recognizably prominent Mediterranean climate. It will snow in the winter and it will get oppressively hot in summer. Rainfall numbers have lessened but they have not reduced to a trickle. What has changed are the extremes of climate. Consider a few recent vintages, 2017, 2021 and 2023. In 2017 there was no precipitation between January 1st and August 31st. That is full on drought. In 2021 there were April 6th and 7th frosts that wiped out vast tracts of just budded vines. The current vintage is an unmitigated disaster. Some frosts early, again in August which also experienced a heatwave that caused a significant rise in PH. From May 15th to June 15th rainfall every afternoon made the control of the Peronospera fungus almost impossible. We call this Downy Mildew, oomycete microbes that are obligate parasites of plants induced by an unrelated fungus called Plasmopara Viticola causing the powdery mildew.

Montalcino’s Upper Orcia Valley

The problem in ’23 was that the mildew by-passed the leaves and went straight to the flowers on the bunches, but the fungus also chooses to not discriminate between the organic and conventional producer. Some areas escaped, especially that of the Sesta Valley between Castelnuovo and Sant’Angelo. The estates in this area (Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Collosorbo, Agostina Peri and Piancornello) were very fortunate to enjoy a good quantity of healthy grapes. Nothing to do with organics mind you, perhaps specific airflow coming from the Orcia Valley, or just dumb luck. Other estates were not so lucky. Fabian Schwarz of La Magia siad he would normally spray copper and sulphur eight to 10 times per season – in that 30 day stretch alone he had to spray 20 times. Maximilian Hildebrandt of Salicutti noted that production was down 35 percent because of the Peronospera and two hailstorms in August and so no Sorgente Vineyard Brunello was made. The challenges faced made it hard to reach their aim “to create the wine on the plants” from a vintage when the usual four sulphur and copper treatments per year were increased to a staggering 22. That’s more heavy metal on the ground than Wacked Open Air. If you missed that reference it’s the most famous Heavy Metal festival held in Germany.

New Alberello plantings at Valdicava

The combined losses of these extreme climate events has been heavy. Up to 90 percent in northeastern Montalcino and anywhere from 10-50 in most other parts. At La Magia the number was 40 percent due to the Peronospera, but also hail. The 2023 vintage was also higher in pH at 3.7, mainly due to a very hot August and the number is normally down at around 3.3. “Maybe winter will see it drop,” said a wishful Schwarz. Vincenzo Abruzzese of Valdicava shrugged off the disaster. “I’m sad of the situation, but I’m not cutting off my arms.” Resiliency is strong, the people and plants will rebound and so much has been learned. Alberello planting is on the comeback “because you are working with three dimensions and every plant is by itself,” explained Fabian Schwarz, “including how it reacts to wind and rain.” But unfortunately that does not include dealing with animals like wild boar and deer. For Abruzzese Alberello vines require less water and can improve sangiovese’s ability to combat climate change, especially at a density of 6,000 vines per hectare. Guyot is replacing Cordone Speronato in many vineyards and almost no one is shoot topping anymore. Giampiero Bertolini of Biondi-Santi elucidated the concept of how plant structure and canopies are managed in a new way, with two parts coming up and together, to have the ability to change trajectory, to open and or close depending on the needs in relation to the weather. At Salicutti they are no longer cutting off the tops of the plants. This to protect them and keep the arches down, “like having a picnic under a big tree,” explained Hildebrandt, “so your butter is not melting.”

Lorenzo Magnelli, Le Chiuse

Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse is looking at creating micro-oxygenation in the soils to promote vine root growth. Cover crops help with this. Also less passages with the tractor to avoid compaction. Fabian and others have begun a two-step pruning process, the first in winter and the second after Easter, well past the time when the first buds had already emerged. This helps to delay the total number of buds before the typically potential Easter frosts though it will not help if a freak occurrence comes in May. And the way climate is trending that will surely happen. However “when you speak about quality,” reminds Schwarz, “it is not because of training systems, it’s from soil and micro-climate.” At La Magia he is also experimenting with anti-fungal activity using Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens, a root-colonizing biocontrol bacterium. “You buy one package and replicate it with a bioreactor,” explains Fabian. He makes a solution to spray in the vineyards as an organic way to ward of odium. The machine was originally purchased to replicate indigenous yeasts for fermentations but now serves a dual purpose.

Bioreactor at La Magia

A territory of four slopes

The northwest slope of the Montalcino hill is where poderi like Cortonesi’s La Mannella, Capanna, Pertimali from Sassetti Livio and the lower side of the Montosoli hill are located. There is great interest in this quadrant because the soils are some of the most variegate from farm to farm and places where really fresh wines are made. The southwestern slope is where you will find producers like Pietroso, Il Palazzone and Le Ragnaie but also the gateway further west to Castiglion del Bosco, Le Potazzine, Corte Pavone and Romitorio. And further southwest you reach Pian delle Vigne and Pieve Santa Restituta.

Poggiarelli Vineyard

The northeastern slope is a unique location with the Orcia Valley spread out to the east and the south. These are the wide-open spaces and rolling hills of Montalcino where the clays are less compact, the calcaire can be quite prevalent and the elevations relatively lower. Here you will find producers like Il Marroneto, Casanova di Neri, Le Chiuse, Ridolfi, Canalicchio di Sopra and Franco Pacenti. The southeastern slope covers everything south and southeast of Montalcino, characterized by steeper slopes, profound changes in elevation, thick forest and windswept plateaus. These are where estates leading down to the villages of Castelnuovo dell’Abate and Sant’Angelo in Colle are located. The highest concentration of farms are here, beginning with Constanti and Biondi-Santi. Then there are Talenti, Salicutti, La Magia, Poggiarelli Vineyard, Fanti and Poggio di Sotto, among many others.

Montalcino

Andrea Lonardi is Italy’s most recent MW and joins Montalcino’s Gabriele Gorelli with that unique distinction. Andrea is the COO of Angelini Wines and Estates and during Benvenuto Brunello week in Montalcino he led a vertical tasting of four vintages from three crus for Val di Suga Brunello. Three different locations, three micro-climates and soils. Lonardi asked “how many places in the world have such a change in landscapes around such a small area?” It tells us that Montalcino producers are focused on Cru, on Vigna and this pinpointing of how and why sangiovese comes away distinct from which place.

With Andrea Lonardi MW

During the final November weekend Godello made a tour of the combined five vineyards worked by the Brunello boys: Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chuise, Tomasso Cortonesi of La Mannella and Francesco Ripaccioli of Canalicchio di Sopra. The purpose was to join them for a look at soils and taste the wines of each place. Francesco talked about La Casaccia as a place of high (8.2-8.3) pH characterized by the clay. “For me it’s sleekness in the wines,” he says “not opulence and less heaviness than from (a vineyard) of dense clay.” Walking the vineyard of Poggiarelli and the windy landscape overlooking the Orcia Valley within the forests will tell you so much about the freshness and also power of those Brunello. Tomasso Cortonesi says “it’s very important for me that a producer has to exult the identity of each single vineyard, including the Rosso.” Montalcino does not like to talk in terns of frazione, Villages, MGA or UGA, but they do like their cru. There motto is that great wine has a secret: “Vineyard, vineyard, vineyard.”

Vines at Talenti

Soils and Sangiovese

All of Montalcino is predicated on sand, clay and stone, like all of Tuscany but the sandstones are its predominant feature. These are mainly Arenaria, which is about as pure as sandstone gets and also Pietraforte, a much harder conglomerate rock that will contain other elements like schist, clay and calcium carbonate. But Montalcino has much less limestone than a region like Chianti Classico. There is some Alberese (and Palombino) stone but the sands are key. Everyone uses the term Galestro but it is not a type or epoch of soil – it’s a type of structure. The term Galestro refers to a manifestation of sedimentary soils at the surface as flakey outcroppings. Galesto mainly comes from schists but also sandstones and appears as flakes of those rocks in layers that fall to pieces, like bits of stony sand. We can say that Galestro soils have a great effect on these sangiovese – but true geological origins matter most.

La Casaccia Vineyard, Canalicchio di Sopra

The thing about sangiovese is that it loves rainfall but does not love really hot seasons. That messes with its natural acidity but Montalcino lives and dies by the variety as the only denomination where every wine is 100 percent sangiovese. There are other grapes grown around Montalcino but only sangiovese makes Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino. In Montalcino sangiovese vines don’t really produce as they once did after reaching 50-plus years of age. But there are many who care to preserve the memoria storica, that is the historical DNA and character of the vines. So they do so with massal selection. Keep in mind that Montalcino was a place where today’s producer is the grandchild of wine producers who woke up the morning, walked to the market to sell some form of goods, walked back down the hill to attend school and then worked the vineyard and the cellar for the rest of the day. Two dozen of them formed the Consorzio – both their descendants and their vines’ descendants are what make Brunello today. The village was along a Roman trading route and everyone knew Montalcino as the place where great wine was worth stopping for. Clemente Santi produced the first true commercial bottling in the 1880s, the Consorzio was formed in 1967, DOCG status awarded Brunello in 1980 and DOC to Rosso in 1984.

Godello, Benvenuto Brunello in Toronto – November, 2023
Image (c) Draga – Front Row Images Inc.

Rosso di Montalcino

Culturally speaking Rosso di Montalcino is the most important wine. It’s what the Montalcinese drink daily. Many winemakers will tell you that Rosso must reflect sangiovese’s character more than any other wine. In today’s Montalcino one’s Rosso is another’s Brunello. It’s now more than ever a matter of location, soil and altitude. There are many ways to skin a Rosso but these days it is always a wine treated with respect. There is enough Brunello to go around and the world needs a lot more Rosso di Montalcino. Godello was able to taste three dozen Rosso that week, covering vintages 2022 going back to 2016.

Benvenuto Brunello in Toronto presentation – November, 2023
Image (c) Draga | Front Row Images Inc.

The “top” 2019 vintage

Which brings us to 2019. Ah yes, the already famous vintage and for many reasons, 99 percent of them good. Comparable to 2016 in the sense in that quality and quantity were both running high. The very famous oenologist Carlo Ferrini of Giodo described the weather as calda but not caldissima. A statement of the obvious says that the key to a great wine in Montalcino is the relationship and balance between phenolic maturity and acidity. Achieving this kind of success was challenging in the two previous vintages. The problem with climate extremes is rising pH numbers, loss of acidity and when this happens you can’t make adjustments after harvest to correct deficiencies. This vintage was a literally a breeze. All the correct winds blew through and yes it was a warm vintage, but with no heat spikes upwards of 40 degrees as there had been in 2015 and also 2016. That is why producers are very happy with and also relieved by 2019. Terms like quality and quantity, easy, uncomplicated, fresh and substantial were tossed about. Even the usage of “The Goldilocks vintage,” not too hard or too soft. Not to dry and not too wet. It was just right. Francesco Ripaccioli noted that on September 15th there was 45-50 mm of rain. “It didn’t affect the vintage,” he insisted, “but the rain cleaned the grapes before they came into the cellar. Tomasso spent three weeks at the beach.” He was joking. Mostly.

Tasting through 426 bottles of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019 at Benvenuto Brunello in Toronto – November, 2023
Image (c) Draga | Front Row Images Inc.

If 2018 was the vertical vintage then 2019 was one of breadth and depth, this as far as Riccardo Talenti is concerned. What a vintage like 2019 allowed a Montalcino winemaker was the choice and the chance to make individual wines, not just good wines. To celebrate the spirit living within each vineyard and farm. To find richness from an uncontaminated place, because climate did not get in the way. To make a style of sangiovese leaning towards the oxidative and not the reductive because the fruit was so untainted. Brunello that carries the DNA of each farm and levels of acidity to see the prospect of the best examples aging for 30 years or more. Alessio Sostegni of Poggio Antico said “you should taste the freshness and concentration, especially because of the winds. The days may be have been hot, but the sea winds blew in each afternoon.” He added that “after a late August rain what followed were high daytime temperatures and nighttime lows. In fact the optical sorter at harvest eliminated almost no berries.” Higher temperatures but no major spikes and rainfall came at all the right times, first in the winter and then with that spike in mid-summer that cooled the vines but happened after the potential danger of funguses like Peronospera. A vintage that Gigliola Giannetti of Le Potazzine said was simply regolare and thank goodness because these days that is increasingly rarer and rarer. Sebastian Nasello of Podere Le Ripi said “it is also rare to find a vintage where both the western and eastern sectors performed in a positive way.” Vegetative growth was slow and steady and harvest stretched over a few weeks of time. The end result was slow and even ripening which could not be said for either 2017 or 2018.

Francesca Granelli Hakulinen and Alessandro Mori

What about Riserva 2018?

The wines are not the most concentrated, at times edgy and volatile, but their transparency makes them some of the most terroir-connected of the last 15 vintages. Twenty eighteen is a pure sangiovese vintage and there is nowhere for the wines to hide. There are many that could be referred to as sneaky structured. Many writers were and remain skeptical. Godello holds much respect for the hard work put in, the selective processes and the potential of these wines. Less Mediterranean as a vintage, lit from behind. Of course there are more impressive and also structured vintages but the guarantee here is in the consistency of farming and winemaking teams with a dedicated set of values. Today we are dealing with Riserva as a wine that only nature can decide whether or not it will become one. Alessandro Mori of Il Marroneto said that “it has a to be a monster to become a Riserva.” His might have been the outlier and not the norm for 2018. Giacomo Bartolommei of Caprili noted that the weather was the complete opposite of 2017. Winter snow, even in the southern part of Montalcino, cooler temperatures and consistent rainfall. “Lighter wines with potential for aging, not unlike 2013. They are showing well right now. We think 2018 will be the same. Even expecting greatness.”

The Brunello Boys: Lorenzo Magnelli, Tomasso Cortonesi and Francesco Ripaccioli

Tommaso Cortonesi: “A vintage where you can recognize the link between the producer and the terroir. The vintage does not show potential during he first two years in bottle. The wines of 2007 were like this. I taste the real Galestro of southeast Montalcino in Poggiarelli. Usually the northern areas do this but in 2018 the southern sectors do this and in balance.” Francesco Ripaccioli of Canalicchio di Sopra: “The first harvest was September 10th – a green one, to concentrate the best bunches. Then heavy rains on September 16th, followed by strong tramontana winds to dry out the vines and keep mildew away.” Producers needed to wait a few days and so harvest began on the 20th, at first looking for what Francesco calls “dimension in the bunches.” Phenolic ripeness and acidity were not developed chronologically but in a more chaotic way. Francesco puts the average ripeness number at 7.5 or 8 out of ten. “Ten doesn’t exist and if it did I would not want it because pH levels would be way too high. Maybe 8.5 is perfect.” This is really important information. Just as picking too early in a hot year is problematic, the chase to optimum phenolic ripeness is also wrought with dangers. High pH, low acidity, over-extraction, which depending on the season can bring exaggerations, mainly astringencies. Balance, that’s the key, regardless of what that equates to in any given year. And place.

The Italian Sommeliers of AIS Siena at Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino

The sommeliers, consorzio and tasting notes

The success of the Benvenuto tastings would be impossible without the Italian AIS Sommeliers and in Montalcino that means the women and men of the AIS Siena division. These are the professionals who serve the wines in Montalcino. They are a tasters’ best friend because they quickly become aware of a taster’s needs even before the taster knows that their needs are needed. Being nice, patient, courteous, friendly and respectful of them is everything. They are there to help in the the best way they can.

Godello presenting at Benvenuto Brunello Toronto, November 28, 2023

The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino President is Fabrizio Bindocci and the Director is Andrea Machetti. Giacomo Bartolommei, Riccardo Talenti and Enrico Viglierchio are the three Vice-Presidents. At the top of the list of those who put in the greatest amount of dedication is Carlotta Salvini who just might be the hardest working person in Montalcino today. Collectively they and their staff make Benvenuto Brunello one of the most important and best organized events on the anteprime schedule. If you would like to jump past this 40,000 word report and straight to the highest rated wines in order, please click here. The 285 wines reviewed are broken down as follows: Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (96), Brunello di Montalcino Vigna + Etichetta + Altra Tipologia 2019 (72), Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018 (23), Other Vintages and Campione di Botti (4), Older Vintages (45), Rosso di Montalcino (36) and Toscana IGT (9).

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

An Ontario mainstay over the last two decades and as of late a move into ethereal wines from Agostina Pieri. In the old days the cost was affordable and to an extent still is but these latest vintages should fetch much more. Case in point the elegant beauty of this 2019 with floral perfume that is in a Montalcino league of its own. Flavours and texture are no different or maybe they are as they move with such fluid grace. This may come as a surprise to some tasters and then there are those who already know that Pieri’s sangiovese is movement and tension together in one lovely Brunello package. Will look forward to a glass 10 years forward, much in the same way many 2013s are delivering with poise today. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Irrefutably Altesino aromatics with that extra bit of ripeness and stuffing though for 2019 a very rounded expression. Purity of fruit as sangiovese once again in the clear Altesino style. Modern and plush though neither opulent for lush. The ease of vintage makes for naturally sweet Brunello that is clearly 2019 and also Altesino. That last comment is everything you need to know. Drinking well already and will continue this way. Will be a great restaurant bottle choice for six years easy. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Armilla Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

In 2019 terms this from Armilla offers up as much if more fruit than many with a swirling of multifarious masala seasoning and spice, but also wood resins and extracts. Vanilla from the French component but also that which is bled from nuts – almond namely while blossoms are floral here and also there. A very promising Brunello that can actually be enjoyed in the present tense though a decant and pause will be needed to open up the grit and chalk of the tannins. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Argiano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

An important sangiovese here for Argiano out of 2019 because Vigna del Suolo is once again a wine named as a Brunello of the Year and so what remains of its unsold and unallocated bottles will be the most difficult to find. Which leaves the world with this Annata in their glass, of a grounded, seasoned and fruitful Brunello that opens the door to the estate, memories in history of a castle up on another hill nearby and as a general dictionary rule, to the rest of the territory. It is a beacon and the dictionary entry for the vintage and while it may seem like hyperbole to say, also the simple existence of the appellation. Fruit, lift, perfume, tart red fruits, chalky tannin, sandstone, a Galestro feel here and there and finally balsamic. Vintage direct. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Belpoggio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Cherry fruit more black cherry quite ripe and also aromatic, including the pit with some nutty bitters. A bit too much Brettanomyces unfortunately which both distracts and turns the palate with brittle to hard tannins. A bit too much I’m afraid to ever feel clean and free of itself. Tasted November 2023

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Quite a rich, macerated, fruit developed and well formulated Brunello from Camigliano that celebrates vintage with distinction if traditionally up and along the middle of the road. Nothing austere about this sangiovese with clean, pure and chewy red fruit. Fresh but of a leathery fruit texture, more than ample and fine acidity before allowing some tannin to take charge. A hint of green at the back end and so the contrast makes the aromatics and flavours come across as jammy in the end. More than solid and representative enough. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Tasting at Canalicchio di Sopra

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The most recent plantings at Canalicchio were executed in 2009 next to the 1990 La Casaccia vineyard. These vines are maturing and will likely seek entrance into the Vigna label but for now they are picked for this classic Brunello. They may not be grapes of enigma or mystery but they are the epitome of purity and the Brunello represents a high-casted estate style to explain so much about the house of Ripaccioli and Canalicchio di Sopra. The 2019 Brunello is a wine of silkiness but not opulence. A sangiovese that is an extension of a producer’s hands and there is no separating the wine from its maker. As for place well yes because all the vineyards are close enough to one another to combine for unmistakable identity. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Canneta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Wildly aromatic, fruit for the most part ripe and dripping their running juices. Mature fruit however and that is too bad because the wine will turn and move Ito secondary notes before too long. Will feel stewed and roasted within two years as noted by the drying tannins. Tasted November 2023

Carpineto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Carpineto is classic in every vintage because well it’s the scent of Carpineto but 2019 expresses hyperbole of all that is this estate’s Brunello. The winds and high elevation brush upwards of 500m, the herbs and plants that grow around the hill and lift, above all else it is lift that makes this sangiovese what it can never help but be. One sip and the truth is clear because here is a vintage from which Carpineto wishes to take full advantage with sour cherry at the fruit core and new leather hides everywhere on the backside and finish of the wine. More than solid and agreeable, of fullness and fine lines, as precise as it gets for the producer. This will begin its best days in 18 months or so until it begins to morph and express secondary notes five to six years ahead. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Capanna Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The 2019 Annata by Capanna comes from solid reasoning and sweet seasoning with a gentle touch. A matter of the Montosoli area as iterated through a savoury liquid sangiovese in surround of a great core of fruit. Though the tannins are important what stands out in this wine is lift, elevating the wine to a place of brightness and more lightness than many of the vintage. Restrained and of subtleties to allow more complexity a chance to emerge as each of these next eight years pass by. When food is ordered and Brunello is desired this by Capanna will act accordingly and deliver super amenability. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Capanne Ricci – Tenimenti Ricci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Rich and mature 2019 from well developed sangiovese of a warm and arid place. Spicy notes are those that fill the aromas without hesitation or trying too avoid getting too hot and heavy. The volatile acidity presents high, even if it’s a factor in relative position to fruit yet it distracts from the overall experience. The heat keeps coming and peppers the palate. All in all a tiring Brunello. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Tasting in the Chiostro with La Morris

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Fine and red chalky Caparzo 2019 that brings its mix of soil and climate origins to layer beautifully in fruit, for acidity (especially) and finally tannin. Trim in one sense but impressive nonetheless because of its purity, with well orchestrated pitch and motion. Delicate but that acidity is the core of the wine. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Caprili Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Very curious to taste Annata 2019 by Caprili side by each with its 2018 Riserva because style matters and the matters of heart are inseparable. That ’18 Adalberto is seriously unctuous sangiovese, as is this ’19 Annata, two peas in a pod, two ripe cherries together forever. No matter when you decide to open this wine and also the other you will see their connection, feel their familial pull and intuit just what matters for this estate. Beauty above all else and fruit. Tannins are fine if unresolved, length is very good and the future surely bright. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Casanova Di Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A major aromatic triumph from the Neri family out of 2019 with the signature, multi-plot cuvée of Casanova Di Neri standing vertically tall as the spokesperson for the estate. Actually quite traditional for Montalcino as far as that is considered in terms of bones, structure and heritage, but the flesh is all modern juiciness. More understood culture comes by way of the gentle swirl of swarthiness that gives this a most natural feel, as if the wine simply made itself. The chalky underbelly in the lower architecture tells a different story that concerns a Brunello to wait on, age for five or more years and then share with those you care deeply about. That is the dearth of this wine – it requires attention and company. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

Casanuova Delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

More than curious and singular aromatic profile from the Casanuova Delle Cerbaie Annata and location just has so much to do with the style. Quite herbal with an Amaro note, but also pencil shaving, graphite and other infiltrate smells that the botti are want to provide. There is pleasure on the palate and very good length to this wine. Feels like it may be polarizing because it is different, but with two years it should likely settle and come back to the centre where many 2019s exist. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2023

Casa Raia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A firm and dusty if very floral aromatic sangiovese with balsamic in every nook, crick and cranny of this Sant’Antimo proximate vineyard. Richer and darker than memory serves to some recent vintages. Classically styled, raised like Brunello of heritage with high rising acidity and no wavering from the mean. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2023

Castello Di Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The widest cuvée breadth of vineyard hectarage accumulation for Montalcino sangiovese is Castello Banfi. What other Brunello (along with Frescobaldi’s Castelgiocondo) over the last three decades has helped to spread the gospel and form the map? Banfi is a matter of consistency of course and said in plurality – locations, locations, locations. Of course a masters in blending with 2019 resting at the pinnacle of these kinds of machinations. There is richness and there are layers from fruit but also the many vessels involved, making sure to include the sweet emotion of wood tannins, saps and resins. This may be the most rounded Castello Banfi with the most accumulations and while it shows little austerity it will surely gain complexity with some age. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Very present Brunello from Castello di Romitorio, grippy and firm in aromatics so that it’s a bit of a tough nut to crack. Not an open book here from Filippo Chia’s 2019 but one where graces are hidden in the shadows of the wine. Very structured for the vintage and the upper reaches sector within a clear sky’s view of the village’s west side fortifications. A wine of passion and emotion, chiaroscuro and a full cupboard of spice. Not a toasty sangiovese but a meaty one, surely specific to place and also weather, as it happened at Romitorio through the course of 2019. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Castiglion Del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Open, generously modern and very available aromatics of western Montalcino fruit and forest. The scent of wet and fresh Spring woods, plummy fruit and a creosopte-graphite-tobacco mix. Some austerity and verdancy on the palate, in part because of location but also because of an ambitious style that maceration and aging conspire to effect. Solid, well built with that ever so slight brittleness in the tannic profile. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Celestino Pecci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Celestino Pecci’s is a high-toned, lifted and fiery 2019, a bit acid elevated for the vintage if on par with the idea that perfume, seasoning and lighter styling is correct for very specific areas of production. Here is a Brunello that’s meant for food, aching for the right pairing and equipped with the sort of tannins that request this kind of planning. Some dusty cocoa and chocolate shavings to resolve and yet there is good promise for the next seven to 10 years of this proper vintage exploration. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Cerbaia is so very curious and aromatically candid though we really do have to think for a few minutes before we figure out what we have in the glass. The estate is present and accounted for, as Cerbaia, grippy and firm in the aromatics, if consciously and accurately so. Not exactly wide open as far as a 2019 goes, nor one whose graces hidden in the structure are quick to emerge. Yet another one of those structured sangiovese for the vintage, here from mid-slope Montalcino elevation within a short climb up the north facing rise up to the village. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2023

Chiusa Grossa Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

High toned and spirited Brunello here from Chiusa Grossa with wild strawberry and more so like than many. The acetone wins because it runs so high while the balsamic is notably hot and heavy. Crunchy Brunello, acid is everything and fruit concentration just does not keep up. Imbalanced though the length is very good. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Will admit to a personal conundrum with the two previous vintages of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona’s Brunello but 2019 comes back to connect with a carefully selected, thought out and restrained Annata. Speaks to the vintage and the estate vineyards in what is an ideally structured, thematically orchestrated and hermetically sealed nutshell. Just the right amount of salumi cure, musky fruit, earthy drama and volume. Unequivocally Ciacci that reminds so much of 2016 if just a bit more spiced and seasoned. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Col di Lamo di Giovanna Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Col di Lamo’s is a plumb of concentration and unction from a vintage so bright and generous you may need to don shades while sipping through a glass (or three). No lack for substance or texture because the season put it out there and a Brunello like this took full advantage of weather, ripe fruit and tannin. There is some wood to resolve here but density and emotion run high for a sangiovese that is sincere, always ready to provide hospitality, enjoy the company and give of itself. There is a softness in this wine and who could not want to spend quality time with it, any time and any place. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Collemattoni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The place comes first and so one nose into Collemattoni’s 2019 is as if the strike from glass could be from Sant’Angelo in Colle itself. Rings a bell for to gain such an important initial impression leading to profound understanding. Their’s is one of aromatic vintage richness but also the kind of lift that’s not only possible but necessary to see this Brunello age for a good length of time. Collemattoni’s is the sort to make a taster feel guilty for wanting to share a bottle today because the bones are strong and the flesh well developed for a decade and a half of age worthiness. Tasting this 10 years forward will show just what all this all really means. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

An aromatic masala of spices here with all the nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, coriander and cumin that can be imagined on the nose of a sangiovese. Plenty of fruit for those spices to pique and accent so happy we all are they are part of the mix. Sense of place for sure but also a toasting they receive from the casks. Complex Brunello no matter how you see this and one to have fun pairing with complex braised meat preparations. Guinea Fowl and also cinghiale come first to mind. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Godello and La Fede at Poggio Antico

Corte Dei Venti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

We often talk about distinct expressions of Brunello and few stand alone as does Corte die Venti, not for any idisosyncratic reason but just because their’s are perfumes unlike neighbours’ or other sangiovese near to far. This from 2019 stays that course and expresses south-central Montalcino proximate land just as it always has, with fragrance, roses, red fruit and lift. A crispy Brunello and that is said with great praise because the truth spoken is unchallenged in a 2019 that does not stray from what came before, nor will it likely roam too far from home. Heritage and tradition are integral to this wine and the taster who dreams of such Brunello will have come to an exact location and at a frozen moment in time. Because this is timeless Montalcino. That’s just a fact. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted November 2023

Corte Pavone Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

There are several Corte Pavone expressions of Brunello produced by the Loacker family and this is the cuvée, of fruit that does not make its way into Campo Marzio, Poggio Molino al Vento, Fior di Meliloto and Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento. This could mean lesser sangiovese quality but when all your fruit is high quality from high elevation vineyards – the standard is a relative one. The Annata is pure and if straightforward then so be it because this should be the Loacker 2019 to get at as soon as the wine will make itself ready. That said there are some tannins that could use settling, refreshening and integration. At the end of the day 2019 classico is both amenable and promising, which means the Etichetta labels should be exemplary. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Cupano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Cupano’s is truly concentrated, consolidated and far from restless sangiovese with all the necessary elements of the vintage in place. A Brunello very much set up for success and one to seek because the vim, relish and vigour are all on side. The wood is a bit aggressive and in charge if only noted this way because the acid lift and energy run high alongside. Let this settle and integrate before rushing not opening your bottles. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2023

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Finding the Donatella Annata quite a different sort of Brunello than the Primedonne, not necessarily surprising and yet they are two sangiovese children of the same mothers. Plural because their makers are collective nurturers to prepare them for equality, equanimity and also surprise. You just never know where they will go but this much can be said. The 2019 Donatella Annata is perfectly clear, clean and handsomely beautiful in a way that may have never been noted before. The fruit is pure, managed to be ready as a tough and grippy sangiovese, but so very pure. Just that typical and knowing swarthiness lays low, gentle and subtle as a reminder of the who, where, what and why of this wine. Squadra davvero straordinaria. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Elia Palazzesi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

As 2019 Brunello goes this from Elia Palazzesi is expressive of as much aromatic grip as any, with great seasoning infiltrative of the perfume. Not so much a matter of luxe et volupté but more so this masala of peppery spices that create a most frank and vivid sangiovese experience. What follows is full mouthfeel with a sappy mix of fruit and barrel but also an intensity that the acidity effects up, down and across the palate. A glaring example of sangiovese and the kind that should and likely could never be confused with any other variety. Full capture here of 2019 by Palazzesi. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Fanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

From 2019 Fanti does what Fanti does, staying a course that makes modern wines from traditional means and most importantly out of a heritage of heart. Though the fruit is admirably developed what makes this sangiovese tick is its high quality acidity, neither sweet nor savoury but one that leaves another sensory impression best described as that of umami. Clearly complex Brunello from 2019, high caste and stylish but never abandoning its profound roots. Bravo Fanti, come sempre. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Lovely, forthright, juicy and full vintage generosity capture here from Fattoi. Hard not to see this as (and it must be said out loud) how much one will almost surely want to drink this sangiovese without waiting for it to age. It really is that perfumed and open up front so don’t feel guilty if you feel this way. There is no lack of substance and structure so keeping bottles is obviously a smart idea but my how this seduces quickly and without hesitation. It is also clearly, credibly and more than ostensibly Fattoi, a classica of red fruit liqueur, gentle lift and composure. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The first two concepts that arrive in mind for Fattoria deli Barbi’s 2019 Annata are respect and tradition because this insistent sangiovese is just what has been and should always be. Fruit and acidity straight away, together and equal which means there will almost certainly be balance in effect all the way through. That is in fact the case for a 2019 that pays duty to vintage and homage to history. The wood is a bit aggressive mind you and that too adheres to lines of necessity to see a sangiovese from a very good Montalcino vintage with the ability to age. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Ferrero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Notably perfumed up front, jumping from the glass with fruit confiture like few other 2019 Brunello. Rich and unctuous in that regard without the immediacy of knowing or imagining this to be a vertical or structured sangiovese. The acidity is grand while the jammy nature continues on the palate. Quite mature when added up and not a Brunello to hold for even another two years. Make haste people. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Fossacolle Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Truly proper 2019 Brunello from Fossacolle, simply assembled for an uncomplicated look at and pure enjoyment of the positive vintage. Fruit is ripe and well managed, acids maintain freshness and the construct is a solid if easily accessible one. Never austere if just some drying moments late to indicate a year or two is needed before this sangiovese rises to its peak. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Franco Pacenti Brunello Di Montalcinio DOCG 2019

The vintage is a generous one, also easy as they come, that much we know. Some sangiovese come away clean, fruity and free, others dense and tannic. Then come the Brunello ‘19s that combine every element, or at least a plethora of possibilities to exact Annata in ways that are full, layered and balanced. Some may say the best estates are the ones that succeed in the most challenging vintages and France Pacenti is one of those, but true excellence comes from those who achieve their goals both ways. Allow to be intrigued and introduced by a Brunello di Montalcino so very whole and built for all the ways that these sangiovese are capable of expressing their territory. The past and the future connected, forged and for all the right reasons. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Fuligni has always been, will likely continue to be but also thrive as its very own Brunello di Montacino animal. Classic, cultural and traditional as it is but finding a way to ever so slowly and incrementally sidle forward with the times. There are austere vintages and this is not one of them so come into a glass expecting some generosity – which this 2019 philanthropically provides. Crispy vintage and that is written with greatest compliment because that’s just what biting into this sangiovese feels like you are doing. Tannins are a bit grippy so time is essential towards coaxing out the best in Fuligni’s 2019. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Giodo Estate

Giodo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Yes, the famous vintage, already and for many reasons, 99 percent of them good. Comparable to 2016 in the sense that quality and quantity were both high and weather “calda” but not “caldissima.” In other words no highs or lows but just what you need and when you need it. From the word nose you get the Giodo Località Casanova in Sant’Angelo in Colle spice and terroir components; herbals and herbs, all the scents, exotic and even those suspected of being exotic. “Molto profumato,” such beauty and a glass of Giodo that conjures imagery, like walking on a dusty Montalcino road as it enters onto grounds scattered with freely manicured perennials in rosemary, lavender, thyme and sage. Nor can the ripe cherry and note of liquorice be missed. Here Brunello finds itself in easy, ideal and effortless harmony while the French wood in particular needs to settle in and allow the optically perfect fruit to be the star. This will happen in two or three years. Just that hint of late balsamico adds to the reminder of what this is and where its from. Drink 2025-2035.Tasted November 2023

With Jacopo and Alessandro Mori

Il Marroneto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

“This is the historical line of Il Marroneto,” begins Alessandro Mori. “The wine that has always been made,” beginning in 1994, originally under the tutelage of Giulio Gambelli. Each vintage should and in fact increasingly will show the evolution of Mori’s work as a pupil and winemaker now in his 28th vintage. A real life and truth for Brunello, never a participant as a designer or connected to trends but achingly out of a mix of passion, lunacy, sagacity and devilishly boyish attitude. This is what you will taste from Mori’s ’19, carried in its DNA from the farm that holds acidity at a level unparalleled and Montalcino secrets only known to this family. The sweet structure will see this sangiovese live 30 years from the deepest of vintages as good as it gets for modern times. This because its makers do right by fruit and not by what markets ask it to chase. Hard not to be moved by this sort of glaring truth but it can’t be helped. The knowledge of evolution is already there, the feeling that this Brunello has already arrived but won’t mature with any obviousness or in any way over the next 10 years. It’s true – keep some bottles for 30. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Quite recognizable as Il Palazzone, in fruit and style, here a step forward in concentration but also phenolic maturity as far as sangiovese grapes are concerned. The vintage allowed for a highly traditional vinification process because such a regular, easy and stress-free growing season (so unusual these days) meant no major adjustments or reactions needed to be made in the cellar. Saw 38 months in Botti, followed by a few more in neutral or raw (“crudo”) cement tanks for refinement. A spontaneous vintage and so all the usual aromatic, flavour and textural aspects are present in the wine; brushy herbs, fennel pollen, vanilla and balsamico for a true to form and place Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Il Poggione Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Straight off the top great work from Il Poggione 2019 with all the aspects and gains of the vintage on full aromatic display. Fruit as ripe as should be, seasoning, perfume and a saltiness in the air. Fruits of labour and perfumes that indicate red drupe we recognize and also that which is a bit exotic. From plum through corbezzolo and also the musky quality of skins equally ripe and lending character to true blue sangiovese. Acids right there, some good and proper tension, plenty of energy and then finally an austerity that indicates age ability. Finest Il Poggione in quite some time. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

La Casaccia Di Franceschi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Plenty of fruit concentration from this edible 2019 with a note of Ribena and roses moving from freshness to desiccation. Also a note of Brettanomyces that puts the tannins under some drying distress, turning hard and brittle so thankfully the fruit is in a good position. Will look forward to trying another bottle. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A rich and developed fruit set from 2019 and one to make sure you know exactly where you are and what time of history you are tasting Brunello di Montalcino. An intensity of floral perfume, a well organized trilogy of that fruit with sweet acids and fine tannins all conspiring to make this a most generous and also promising wine. Pure and respectful sangiovese, significant of place and no gratuities taken. Brava. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

La Fornace Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Bright and top fruit capture for vintage without going over to put a 2019 in a light that shines demure if bright. White peppery heat on the nose so just some imbalance in that regard but stuffing is elastic and quite seamless throughout. Crispy vintage here for the furnace and in a good place, without tannins or tension too demanding. That white pepper through – it is a little distracting. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

La Fortuna Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Nothing shy or held back about 2019 La Fortuna in a wine of great vintage fortune because the layers are all texture and more. Some sappy and resinous wood to qualify and integrate so time will need to be the ally. Good fruit is substantial and the structural parts are supportive. Wait 18 months and keep for up to a decade more. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A bit extreme lift and acetic tone from La Gerla, more than usual and so some air time is necessary here. A great balsamic stress, pomegranate and currants hard juiced and their levels turned up to the max. The wood here is sappy and resinous for a Brunello that arrives with high acidity if other parts also vivid, glaring and overly substantial. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Quite a luxe and rich sangiovese from La Leccaia’s 2019 Classica which bodes really well for what will almost surely follow in extrapolation by way of Vigna Manapetra. In some vintages the Vigna can cannibalize the normale but when the latter is this well developed the opposite will occur. This is pure and succulent liquidity because by the grace of the vintage acids melt and lift fruit where it wants to be. There is a bit of excess “grasso” texture and wood on this sangiovese but it too will melt into the fabric of what the aromatic and flavour profiles have showed in the first. Ideal mid-term Brunello. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

“It was a very easy vintage,” echoing what most producers have said but you can see in his eyes that for Fabian Schawrz this was the truth. Floral is the understatement and distillate expressive might be an over, but there is real liqueur on the nose of this 2019 Brunello. “A normal vintage” he reminds and normal sangiovese means classic, once upon a time style of wines. This includes lift, a thing that’s disappearing from Brunello and better today when purity and clarity are just as strong, but also important. Surprise is a good thing but so too is recognition and the aromatics of La Magia are just that, earth fragrant and brush savoury with fruit a willing participant in the agrarian game. The aromatic rising will surely settle because the palate is more that way and so it sure feels like everything well eventually get together. The work of Fabian Schwartz in on and in motion with this a matter of 2019 sangiovese fruit that leaves an impression. The wood is very much a part of the activity and the wine needs a few years to integrate but that it will with spices and seasoning always the accents to exact intricacy and entanglement. Fine work here, well received with a look forward two to three years. Classic 10 year Brunello if not one to lose in the cellar for 20 or more. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Brushy and savoury Mediterranean scented sangiovese is really exactly this and La Rasina fulfills its classica 2019 course in the delivery of this sort of aromatic profile. The palate follows suit and balsamico is everywhere, infiltrating all pores and punches of this wine. Very specific style, not ancient but traditional to say the least. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Tight and wound, tart red fruit led Annata from La Serena. High toned with acids creating the lift and a white pepperiness that also leads, if thankfully does not dominate the nose. The quality of palate mouthfeel is high though the back end of the wine shows some greenness in the extracted tannins. As a by-product of this phenolic presence this does come across as a bit of a jammy Brunello separated from its structure. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2023

Montalcino from Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Le Chiuse separates from the pack in many ways but first and foremost by levels of precision and purity to condition its sangiovese’s profound character and concentration. Always remember and keep in mind that there is no Vigna Brunello from Le Chiuse so Riserva aside (which was made in 2019) the finest small to medium-sized berries are chosen for this classica Brunello. The top of top level substance and so much profundity packed into the body and flesh of the wine. The kind of sangiovese that will take decades to unwind and yet the sleekness but also the purity are appreciated from the very first stages. The quality and sophistication of the tannins in Le Chiuse’s 2019 are nearly unparalleled. This is the truth and finally it is time that will help this vintage to continue to show the individual identity of the zone where Le Chiuse is born and raised. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2023

Le Gode Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A corner has been turned and a next epoch for Le Gode comes into view with this Brunello 2019’s purity of fruit and a newfound clarity that makes the sangiovese sing. Feel the coolness of northerly fruit and a liqueur of really gentle maceration in such a sweet spot you feel like all is right in the world. While the acidity is right in line and well beyond the threshold of being openly lifted it is the tannins that show a sweet softness and demure nature. Most important is the fruit and how it has been coaxed with a gentle if fulsome touch. Structure is not most prescient from 2019 Annata and that seems to matter little. There should be many who seek Le Gode out in its first five years of fresh and primary life. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Le Macioche Famiglia Cotarella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

As spiced, spicy and exotically charged aromatic entry as any from a 2019 Brunello. Also a thickness of palate texture, wood that feels grainy and dark chocolate, yet within reason. There is a minor note of Brettanomyces that turns the tannins a bit hard. Not egregious though a bit separated from that rich textural fabric. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Le Potazzine’s Viola Gorelli, Sofia Gorelli and Gigliola Giannetti

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A vintage Gigliola Giannetti says was simply regolare. Thank goodness because in these days that sort of respite is increasingly rarer and rarer. Which means that fruit and phenolic ripeness are just about as good as it gets, never a 10 out of ten because what is that, but this gets close. Also a sangiovese of concentration, full and substantial amplitude, while clearly built with some stuffing that certifies its appellative, cultural and heritage status. What you won’t quite find in ’17 and ’18 but surely will out of this ’19 is succulence as a by-product of varied fruits and acidities. This precocious Brunello will not quit, comes at the palate in waves and yet the Potazzine perfume pervades and outlasts all else. As fine as there has ever been bottled from this estate. Seems a shame to open and consume a bottle this young but how to stay away? There is no fault in wanting just a sip today. The sangiovese epitome of forbidden fruit. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted November 2023

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Would always expect Le Ragnaie to express its conditioning through estate elevation (on par with the village itself) and that it does, regardless of vintage. Yet this is 2019 and so depth is noted from the word go even while freshness, pitch prompt acidity and fine tannins are clearly present and dutifully accounted for. Sanguine if less so than some sangiovese in vineyards a bit further south on the same road that winds down towards Sant’Angelo in Colle. Youthful as Brunello here in the sense that the perfumes have yet to fully rise and pronounce their floral-herbal-mineral mix. Some glycerol makes for a mouthfeel that is the talk of the vintage. This is so correct for a Riccardo Campinoti Classica Brunello. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Ultra fresh and aromatically juicy Brunello for 2019, not unusual though this is a particularly expressive level of pulchritude through perfume. Feels like the nose is possessive of glycerol though we know it is what follows that really delivers such a vintage sensation. Yes the repeat on the palate is an act of contiguous sensibility with more transitions seamless and very good natured. There is restraint in power and grace under pressure. Fine 2019 that should have been easy to make happen though it truly never is. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Lovely adherence and respect shown here from Mastrojanni with crisp red fruit notes and herbals complimentary and sweet. Quite a modern take because the mouthfeel is quite silky and there really are no angles or unnecessary tension in the wine. Quite amenable, spiced by wood but here is nothing extraordinary or austere about this 2019 whatsoever. Early drinker in any case. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Máté Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A very specific sort of red fruit makes a Máté and 2019 is the epitome of that kind. It being layered and citrus scraped, of orange to blood orange, zesty and piquant with more red citrus notes arriving and joining the specificity of this sangiovese mix. The palate brings wood and more than expected quite frankly but not as cakey texture, no its just an espresso-cocoa powder that will eventually stir into the liquid and emerge as a fine cream of 2019 Brunello. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Molino Della Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

TCA. Second bottle also laden with Brett. Tasted November 2023

Padelletti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Impressive showing for Padelletti’s 2019 with great perfumes and an airy breeze blowing through the light, bright and transparent red fruit. Just the right level of tart and acidity though not the most structured sangiovese from the vintage. No matter because there are some needed to service in the first few years after release while the bigger wines are finding their legs. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Darker if transparent within that notation and a deeper well of macerated red fruit is what comes from Brunello 2019 by Patrizia Cencioni. Sangiovese of really well developed ripe fruit in singular and volumetric dimension. The cask is really well integrated, the acidity well forged and one that should continue forward for a decade plus. The length on this vintage is really quite outstanding, freshness and purity as well. Improves with each moment in and out of the glass. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Pian Delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Quite a tart set of red fruit scents, of pomegranate and blood orange in this very citrus forward Brunello. On the lighter side in terms of substance and concentration to speak of location in the northern and veering western side in relation to the hill. The evergreen note seems to confirm this contention and the wine never fleshes but instead stays the citrus course. Will likely develop some amaro and mint notes with age. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Pietra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Higher tonalities out of a Pietra sangiovese heightened by the 2019 Brunello vintage. Dusty quality to the fruit, not deep enough to imagine plum but more so citrus in a fresh squeezed pomegranate way. There is balsamic everywhere, a piqued accent on the nose, a reduction on the palate and a richness at the finish. Speaks to the multiplicity of acidities involved which may peak to a threshold for some. It’s right there, keeping the freshness and though I believe this to be a specific kind of Brunello it will be one that remains preserved for a very long time. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

There are five vineyards from which the Pietroso Brunello cuvée can be made, they being (Casa) Pietroso, Petroso, (northerly) Montosoli, Fornello and Colombaiaolo near Castelnuovo dell’Abate. For 2019 only the older part of Montosoli and Petroso are not in here. Plenty of discussion and tastings about the hottest vintages and how the regulations for the elevation limits for growing sangiovese need to be adjusted but then along comes a vintage like 2019. A season so ideal and unassuming we might all think that everything is perfectly OK. On the contrary, but the focus is this fine 2019, half a point less alcohol (maybe more) than Rosso 2022, ebullient of perfume and so harmonic with all its voices in synch. It’s funny to say but today the perfect vintage is the one that’s just normal. Nothing out of sorts, no highs and lows, agreeable, in delivery of amenable fruit, happy acidity and tannins powerful yet in great restraint. This is Pietroso from 2019, a mix of Montalcino sectors, micro-climates and soils stacked and layered for all that could be wanted. Crispy, crunchy, a freshness incarnate, expertly judged and adjudicated. Have not tasted more than a handful of Pietroso Brunello and while all thus far have made an impression, this 2019 is in another league. Drink 2025-2036. Tasted November 2023

Pinino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Spicy and toasty nose on Pinino’s 2019 with so much wood resin, sap and spice. Hard to see the forest through the trees here and this will not likely change. Unusually heavy handed feel, especially for the vintage which likely indicates a troublesome bottle, which is a bit of a pity. Will hope to re-taste. Tasted November 2023

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Brizio 2019 is great expectation met through a sangiovese of red fruit multiplicity, like a cuvée of citrus, currant and corbezzolo, juiced and stirred with freshness incarnate. Tart and at the maximum tang for the vintage with expensive wood working so well to nurture, raise and release the precocious fruit. Stylish and well made in every way. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Alle Forche Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

More than what should be needed wood on this Brunello takes centre stage to shroud and cloud fruit and create a milkshake of a 2019 sangiovese. Hard to figure where in the territory this might come from because its ubiquity, make-up and made character just won’t allow it to talk freely. Seems like a yeoman try but it comes across sappy, sweet and thick textured. A work in progress perhaps and later vintages may tone it down to see the Montalcino light. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Antico

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The Annata is a blend of all estate sangiovese blocks except the lowest vineyard which goes to Rosso. The classic Poggio Antico Brunello of the past were always concentrated and substantial wines but in many vintages they softened relatively early, say after five to seven years before secondary character and creaminess would set in. This is changing for an estate possessive of vines at some of Montalcino’s higher elevation and this 2019 is proof of how increased solar radiation bathed by great technical (and also intuitional) work has equipped this sangiovese with more accumulated structure. Nothing against past vintages but we are here made privy to a wine that will not truly begin to morph in the first 10 years post harvest. The intricacies are many, the intertwine of fruit and sweet acid-tannin layers something other, or better still something next. This is a new epoch level style for Poggio Antico in the hands, minds and hearts of a team moving in a most profound but humble and well spoken direction. The attention to detail and respect for different blocks is evident. The 30cm of winter snow followed by perfectly timed quantity of rain in Spring when warm yet not too hot temperatures prevailed all added up to a near perfect start to the vintage. After a late August rain what followed were high daytime temperatures and nighttime lows. In fact the optical sorter at harvest eliminated almost no berries. “We will have to check the evolution over the next two years,” says Alessio Sostegni, but he’s quite sure it’s the best he has seen since taking the reigns full time starting back in 2012. 40,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

There are but a few dozen Brunello teams that show this level of restraint and respect for their properties and despite the potential for ambition it is Poggio di Sotto not straying from that ideal. The vintage is great but that does not mean extraction and aging should try to max out on weight or power. This does not and instead delivers purity, refinement and grace. Its great charm is born of details, focus and a high regard for clean, clean precision. Hits the correct località notes and processes the quality of fruit through an acid to tannin information continuum like an artist with a keen sense of science. So expertly judged and designed. Once a sketch, then a stencil, now in full animation. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A bright, airy and cool Brunello for 2019, not surprising considering the northwesterly localitá. Still there is next level richness for the estate and a sign of what the future will bring when vintages are warm and fruit achieves top phenolic ripeness. As here with a red fruit scintillant but acids so fresh and ripe they really tie the sangiovese threads together. Essential style and effect if simple but all that makes this a really fine Brunello, one to relish and really want to drink. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Renieri’s is reductive of pepper and rubbery aromas above average for the vintage. The alcohol also stands out on the nose which makes for a rough and tumble experience. Time will settle and heal some wounds but as a rule 2019 Brunello should show more charm and grace. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2023

Ridolfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Brunello from a cooler Montalcino sector and always a savoury one, with more verdancy in brush and evergreen than many. A bit of stem sensation as well, some variegation in the fruit but also the tannin. Crunchy sangiovese, plenty of buzz and energy, then real length. That is a traditional Brunello’s strength. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Roberto Cipresso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Rich but not powerful, fulsome if not exactly exploding and overall a very complete Annata sangiovese from Cipresso. The great liquidity by way of glycerol red fruit and structural components that are quite similar in potency, surely out of design. Fine and giving, steps up from the “normale” norm and a satisfying mouthful in the end. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Salicutti’s Annata 2019 is quite restrained, a bit closed, somewhat demure, fresh and youthful. Perhaps surprisingly so but this is no fruit bomb or Brunello of immediate gratification. I have the distinct memory of tasting this fruit in October of 2019 within two weeks of it coming off of the vines and there is little surprise that it’s showing four years later in this way. Fruit comes from the three single vineyards off of 4.5 hectares; Piaggione, Sorgente and Teatro and this is the first vintage out of which no Rosso di Montalcino was produced. Tension above all else and tightly compact structural parts that keep the freshness and fruit locked in tight. Just a touch of swarthiness and even a moment of Brett are noted on the back palate but there is no compromise to tannin. It’s austere but not drying so time will most certainly aid, abet and break the tie to see this drink well after a few years of time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Salvioni – La Cerbaiola Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Not so difficult to establish the range of Brunello from a vintage like 2019, from the traditional to the ultra modern, the ambitious from the respectful. Salvioni’s is a complex matter, of the first and then the last, a sangiovese of heritage imperative and one that listens to both the vintage and also località wind. Most wines do not exhibit this kind of elastic tension but 2019 by Salvioni is exacting in its measure, focused in pliant ability and capable of eliciting a wide range of emotion. Catches the light in just the right way, makes ideal use of ripeness met by equal and supportive acidity and seeks something further than most that try to capture a vintage. This is the correct season experienced in a world where that gets harder every year. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Not so much a bright 2019 Brunello but ones that breathes quite free and easy. A wine so comfortable in its warm skin and a result for the vintage that is just what should occur from an estate moving forward with more vertical wines year after year. Wood is well managed and there is a lightness this time, a,k.a. freshness, without ambition or excess. Great result for southern Montalcino. Last tasted November 2023

An anteprima but bottled six months ago and the vintage to be shown at Benvenuto Brunello 2023 before being released in January 2024. Near to Argiano and Il Poggione below Sant’Angelo in Colle. Massive wine in ever respect with fruit that has not been seen in a few years, matched effortlessly by sweet acids and high caste tannins. Hefty throughout, sleek, silken and full throttle. Wait seven years to seek the open window of gratification. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted October 2023

San Guglielmo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

As for Brunello by Ilaria Martini and her Transylvanian husband Michael (Mike, or Michele), well this may just be the launching point for their tenure as seriously important Montalcino producers. Ilaria’s heritage is entrenched in the founding of the Consorzio, of which her grandfather Guglielmo was an original member. Here they are three to four vintages in, at 470m at elevation in a micro-climate and terroir shaped by and contained within its own bubble, where the Galestro and Palombino litter the surface at Località il Chiesino. Where feels like the middle of nowhere the land is a local matter of “macchia mediterranea,” the brushy Mediterranean scrub that these wines can’t help but express. If the smell of schist and soil could be noted in a wine then this would be it and so San Guglielmo’s is sangiovese born of the earth. Red fruit and clarity but never a Brunello that imposes its will. No, it simply translates and transposes the vineyard. Hard not to fall in love with this dirt. Drink 2024-20230. Tasted November 2023

Sanlorenzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Traditional, lighter and brighter sangiovese in the Brunello idiom, tart red fruit and structure. The construction is like an immovable natural stone terrace of Pietraforte to control erosion and that is the design for where this is going. It’s not that Brunello di Montlacino as a rule is a mineral wine per se but if any were to be described as one to imitate the geological nature of this land – Sanlorenzo may just as well be one of those such wines. Top vintage for the estate. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Rich and spicy nose for San Polino, red cherry fruit so ripe, spot on and comfortable within its skin. Freshness from those skins, no musk or must and simple divinity as it pertains to sangiovese. Such a well judged and rounded Brunello with just enough tension to create elasticity between that fruit and fine tannins. Acidity is the driver to see this live longer than the average, if not a few years more than that. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Middle range of elevation on a high plateau where winds blow softly and weather comes in great waves is the place where San Polo’s Annata get its wings. Some of the reddest cherry fruit of the appellation, swiftness of foot and smoothness of consistency put this in great, amenable and correct steading. There is also a soft sappy sapidity to the interaction and resulting texture yet it too will effect a lovely result for the consumption of this wine in its earliest years. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Sassetti Livio Peritamali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Oh my what sweet and seductive perfume from Sassetti Livio’s 2019 that is simply beautiful hyperbole of the previous six vintages having arrived and culminating at this. Some will note the fact that matched against those gorgeous fruit aromas is a mild amount of Brettanomyces that to others will take away from the beauty. There is quite a bit of concentration out of extraction and tannins follow suit with confident steading. They are austere as well, drying quite measurably and so time will tell if the minor distraction will hinder or fade to allow the best of this sangiovese to shine. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Scopone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Not one of the most luxe or lush fruit substantial 2019 Brunello di Montalcino but in this instance a seamlessly fluid one. Fruit is good quality though hard not to intuit some greenness extracted in the tannin. Either some of the fruit was not quite ripe or the sangiovese was pressed with a bit of force. Either way the dichotomy is noted and the wine will always play as two parts. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2023

Sesta Di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Bit of a brooder this ’19 by Sesta di Sopra, neither dense nor pressed but a matter of soil it seems. Must come from a place of compact clay and hard stone as opposed to a soil of sand and Galestro. The structure is formidable and the wine sinks into its own maceration but also its phenolic austerity. More than ripe enough and serious sangiovese, built for aging and not in any sort of comfortable place at this time. A wine of potential and a certain part of 2019 is achieved here. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Ah Sesti, demure, soft-spoken, elegant, all descriptors not used lightly or taken with any gratuity. Sesti’s Brunello, understated and sure of its place, even while it wonders and we consider about this and that. Pensive and thoughtful, not the same thing, but one that follows the other. A beautiful example of lightness and grace, fluidity as it glides across the palate, turns to smile and moves away. There really does not need to be much more said save for the idea that this will live for decades. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted November 2023

Siro Parenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Pacenti’s is wisdom from Montalcino with experience for Brunello that starts and finishes with sangiovese at the crux and heart of the matter. A 2019 that captures the entire history, style and function of Siro Pacenti in one bottle. These are wines of a period that do not depart from their own fashion because they are the creator of what they are. There is no chase of design or trend but just the depth and plumbing of cool, savoury liquidity for this kind of sangiovese. Pacenti’s is what you expect if you know what Pacenti is. Like the 1997 recently opened it is this 2019 that connects that wine threaded to all that were produced in between. They are all one. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

With Michaela Morris and Riccardo Talenti

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

If 2018 was the vertical vintage then 2019 is one of breadth and depth, this as far as Riccardo Talenti is concerned. Specific to this Talenti vineyard cuvée which means all nine plots from every location, some obviously more than others. A mix of all five soil types and micro climates and no other recent vintage has layered, complicated and concentrated like the 2019. Variability sure but how seamless is this? Freshness and fulsome character are in synch as much as these two disparate ideas can be so that the Annata will express all that Talenti’s fruit has to offer. Good liquid peppery grip and length as long as the road from Montalcino to Amiata. Grande Riccardo. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Can’t miss the warm location result on the aromatics of Tenuta Buon Tempo’s ‘19 with a wisdom and maturity of fruit notes. Plum and pomegranate of a citrus intensity, a molasses of other juices if you will, with a drizzle of reduced balsamic. Like a sweet meets savoury plate, ying and yang, king and queen, balanced and dry as the desert despite the natural sugars that persist – even as they are not ones of residual effect. Some will find the resins and others will see the flesh. ’Tis is southern Montalcino effect from out of a warm vintage. There is no other way. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Plenty of up front stuffing noted straight away from La Fuga’s Annata, a heavy set of fruit and fuel to see this ’19 travel a good distance. Bing cherry and orange, a reduction of fruit with a citrus angle and the sense is of a sangiovese subjected to a long maceration. Has brought about the glycerol feel while tannins are also of a fully developed nature. There is weight and also length, some astringency as well but time should be an ally. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Nardi’s 2019 Annata is a big and proud one, macerated long and brought into a place where it seems to be enjoying having consumers embrace this very moment of largesse. Plenty of sweet barrel flavours but also spiciness that take centre stage. Here and there the scents of roses and a return of the seasonings makes sure to remind abouth the matters of sangiovese, sense of place and ultimately what Brunello di Montalcino is all about. That wood needs to melt and disappear some and when that happens the real Nardi sangiovese should do what it was intended to do. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Tommasi Casisano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Casisano presence and perfume, big gains from 2019 and a sangiovese feeling through fruit and all the things that give it its silken texture. Glycerol and pectin for natural emulsification to coagulate all the ripenesses developed by a vintage. A bit salty this one and that is not perfectly indicative of vintage or style, but there it is to make this a most unique and also complex Annata. This must be the place. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Uccelliera Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Uccelliera is wisdom and it is experience but most of all it is a Brunello of agriculture. The 2019 feels like a solid rock of sangiovese with emotions in check and this essential understanding that Brunello di Montalcino is half heritage and half longevity. Immediate gratification is not the sum of these fresh, youthful and organized parts, but long-term gains should be a great part of your purchasing and tasting goals. This is serious and expertly produced Brunello, tight and compact, lending or rather insisting on the feeling of soil, climate and human touch. All intrinsically connected and so this my people is a fine wine of terroir. It is purely and significantly Montalcino. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted November 2023

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Valdicava, literally the name of the località, “valley of the cave.” Dates back to 1953 when Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s father Bramante Martini founded the podere. He would walk up the hill to sell farmed goods at the Montalcino market, return for school and work the fields in the later day. A cow breeder who sold his early grapes to Biondi-Santi. Brunello is a mix of all parts of Valdicava’s 10 parcels, “something unique and complete,” tells PierFilippo Abbruzzese. The ’19 has been in bottle six months, from a vintage of good production, doubly important because there was no ’18 and just 10 percent of ’23 produced. Refined in cement vats lined with fibreglass, for a result that is neither reductive nor oxidative and to maintain balance. Prominently profound in so many ways, magnanimous of character, substantial fruit in waves, solvent acids, brunet complexion and sombre finishing tones. Shadows of Bretty-yeasty-toasty character, complexities in and out of every pore and a specific character that is simply Valdicava’s. “We choose to make individual wines, not good wines,” insists Vincenzo. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga

Val Di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Plenty of perfume and impressive stuffing from the classica Val di Suga 2019, a Brunello open and lifted, fulsome of fruit times acid squared. Shows these elements with great energy and then the barrels though not with tannins loading up as a result of its elévage. There are some, but they are not from the wood – only from super ripe and proper skins. Truly well composed and promising Annata – especially considering there are three more etichetta/Vigna wines to discover in the Val di Sugar portfolio. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Ventolaio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Ventolaio has a lot of aromatic goings on that tease and titivate the olfactory senses as much as any Brunello from the vintage. Richly perfumed, seasoned and spiced, piquing with peppery jolts and red lightning fruit strikes. But it’s deeper than that and the palate wells with macerations, moves through machinations and delivers a full vintage effect. Some chaos here but things will eventually settle down and come together. Drink 2026-2032.Tasted November 2023

Voliero Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Like Uccelliera there is wisdom, acumen and experience gained from Andrea Cortonesi’s Voliero. While perhaps a bit less concentration there is indeed more energy and mineral sear in this sister label. More sweetness of fruit, less but still solid tension and higher acidity thus the buzz puts this in an earlier drinking window but still there is longevity in the fire. Really solid and proper Brunello, respectful of place and vintage, expertly put together and a perfect Brunello to drink while Uccelliera readies itself for the future. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Riccardo Talenti

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019 Vigna + Etichetta + Altra Tipologia

Alessandro Rossi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Aisna 2019

Some reduction and vinyl shower curtain on the nose in what is not the most perfectly clean Brunello di Montalcino. Too bad because both fruit and acidity are right there in equal if opposing ripenesses but the distractions are at the head. Give it some time to clean itself, integrate and soften. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2023

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2019

Altesino’s part of the Galestro-strewn Montosoli hill is one of the bigger blocks in a very small area (of 30-plus hectares) where 10-ish producers create Brunello labels within the cru. A special northerly part of Montalcino that benefitted greatly from the vintage though truth is 2019 was good for everyone just about everywhere in the denomination. This is Altesino and the connection with the Classica is noted, but being Altesino-Montosoli there is more, something other, unnamed yet founded, underlying, streaking and trussing through. A sticking of soil and micro-activity that makes this wine and the others from this place a band of brothers and sisters. These are sangiovese and Altesino’s are included that have “been workin’ every night, travelin’ every day” to arrive at a vintage like 2019. It’s never been this calming to make a top quality wine from the hill that are not glaringly different than others in Montalcino. That’s both but not importantly good or bad because Montosoli as Altesino pleases the palate and sets up for long life. This is but one vintage that hints at the future which will brighten if perhaps tighten less and less. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Antinori’s foresight looked at this southwestern section of Montalcino where elevation is high and austerely savoury wines used to be the order of business in vintage after vintage. That intelligence has led to and seems to culminate at this 2019 because sweetness of fruit and acidity like never before transform Pian delle Vigne into a new epoch of the estate’s Brunello. As substantially ripe and full as never before and something so modern in construction it will attract a large audience, at least from they who can afford such wines. There are many and if marketing succeeds they will be found. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vignaferrovia 2019

As for the single Vignaferrovia the exaggeration and hyperbole for modern terms in Pian Delle Vigne is wrought times two with density, thick texture and also thankfully a wild side. No estate vineyard sangiovese from Antinori has ever reached this pinnacle of luxe, not Tignanello, not Badia a Passignano, not Pian delle Vigne. It just has to be a triumph for the team and Piero Antinori’s vision. Once again those who seek the modern style and can afford such a sangiovese will be very pleased with this top 2019 result. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Montosoli 2019

Baricci’s Montosoli is indicative of the northern hill but perhaps the most singular of all the expressions from there. Their fruit darkens, feels at first aromatically baritone but then brightens and turns soprano on the palate. It’s an amazingly curious dichotomy of expression while the transition from one to the other is both seamless and appropriate. All the notes are in place, connected and complimentary but there are fills and subtly added transitions both inside and outside of the main frame. Cool, savoury and yes mineral even if those who wish this concept be eliminated from the Montalcino lexicon. The finish shows quite a bit of wood and so Baricci’s Montosoli should be held for a few years, to see expedited integration ahead of further investigation. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted November 2023

Castello Di Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Alle Mura 2019

The scent of south by southwest Montalcino in a perfect bubble is here captured by Banfi’s storico label “Poggio alle Mura.” So intrinsically sangiovese aromatically and vintage uttered with a 2019 of high tonality and quite obvious lift. All the tart red fruits and more, especially the balsamic finish blowing in the winds of Banfi’s magnanimous vineyard holdings. A classic. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Alle Mura Vigna Marrucheto 2019

High hopes, well actually expectations from Vigna 2019 and this is Banfi’s top iteration in that regard. Vigna Marrucheto owns itself and its perfumes open the discussion, ringing and singing of what is right and recognizable. There is clear depth and intendment from Marrucheto, of tannins so austere and unyielding yet they speak in unequivocal terms. Terms to request for time and only patience will exact any semblance of reward. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Three estate tasting at Canalicchio di Sopra

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna La Casaccia 2019

La Casaccia is a brown clay with a prominence of calcium carbonate that gives this single vineyard sangiovese its colour. A place of high (8.2-8.3) pH characterized by the clay. “For me it’s sleekness,” tells Francesco Ripaccioli, “not opulence and less heaviness than from (a vineyard) of dense clay.” La Casaccia from that calcareous clay is no simple Rosso or classic Brunello for that matter and it is immediately apparent that concentration and depth of all parts manage the wine’s breadth at levels those drink earlier propositions do not. Similar grip to Riserva but not the same power although without tasting Riserva at the same time it would be hard to imagine how this could be improved or extrapolated upon. Simple but crazy complex and a most evocative elucidation to see this Brunello wooing with as much substance and intensity as it does – but these are the 2019s. A matter of deliberately annotating sangiovese and Casaccia through this interaction with a Brunello that enhances a taster’s understanding, recall and reaction to the vintage. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2019

A 1959 vineyard was no longer delivering any significant production and so it was re-planted in 2009 though this fruit joins the classic Brunello. The Montosoli fruit is from 1995-1996 vines and the total quantity is usually 35-40 hL of juice. Canalicchio di Sopra shares the hill/cru with several others including Altesino, Baricci, Caparzo, Casanova della Cerbaie, Le Gode, Le Ragnaie and Pietroso. The 2019 is not the most open expression of sangiovese but it is crunchy and saline Montosoli. Admittedly so young as a Vigna Brunello so take as much time as needed to breath in the air. Montosoli is clearly exceptional out of 2019 and tasted against La Casaccia it feels much more savoury and even a bit brooding. This is the relative assessment that makes Montosoli feel a bit salty. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Casa 2019

La Casa is the fortunate recipient of intensely factored and woven Montosoli fruit from some of Montalcino’s greatest Galestro-strewn vineyards. The levels of red scintillate-lightning fruit and mineral acidity here are simply off the charts. Magnificence and munificence, all pertness, no pretence or gratuity, simply definition, assembly and intendment. A trenchant wine that speaks in pure, unequivocal and grippy vintage voice. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2023

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta Nuova 2019

Tenuta Nuova is something next level and you know this from the moment you put nose to glass. It consumes the senses straight away with its intoxicating perfume as deep as it is strong. Muscular in that regard and exponentially so at the intersection of palate and structure. The stuffing, intensity, power and layers are what we call “off the charts” and there are but a few vintages that create, instil and then leave this kind of impression. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Casanuova Delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli CdC 2019

A most curious and intriguing Montosoli hill sangiovese out of 2019 and one to spur the debate as to whether the northernly hill fares best in cooler, wetter, more challenging or easier vintages like this. The answer is complicated and always dependent on estate but Montosoli the cru is shared by many so most pertinent to the discussion. In this case the vintage makes for positivity because the phenolic character of this sangiovese is right there at the precipice between fruity and sapid. They can coexist so that the words adds up to flavour and that is this case in a nutshell. Acids are of a supportive quality and while wood lends just a bit too much sap and toast – these extras will dissolve and eventually become allies to the important matters of the wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Filo di Seta 2019

Same vintage but another matter altogether from Romitorio’s 2019 fantasy of Filo di Seta. The Annata is a meaty, darkly sanguine and almost brooding affair while FdS breathes with more marine salty air which means freshness is its introduction. An embarrassment of aromatic riches is one thing but definition and precision are another. Filo is expressive of all this and the romance on the palate plays with heartstrings but also empirically evident emotion. You could calculate a sangiovese algorithm by the numbers, exponential extrapolations and physical science of this greatly structured sangiovese. A profound sangiovese and while the classic is a very good wine its holds no candle to the Seta. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Celestino Pecci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Al Carro 2019

The single vineyard (or Vigna) Poggio al Caro is near and dear to a Celestino Pecci heart and so the name rings clear and true. A focused sangiovese as ever has been cleared for tasting from this Montalcino house. A vigna sangiovese of great perfumes and seasoned to the hilt. This is the thing about 2019 Vigna out of which producers of a sensitive focus were able to coax clarity and finesse. This example hits the high notes and plays cool chords so that the wood stays background tough its drying notes will need a few years to integrate. Should hit its stride late in 2025. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Castiglion Del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Campo del Drago 2019

Heavy set fruit, sappy wood notes and plenty of forest all combine for a weighty, complex and ultra open-knit Brunello for the vintage. Nothing held back from Campo del Drago in fact it’s one of those all in 2019 Brunello that deliver up front seduction, even at the expense of long term gains. The goal here is an expression of impressive character that can be poured at tables where guests will be impressed by the size and star power nature of the wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Pianrosso 2019

The single entity Pianrosso (the red plateau) is a clear and very present extension of the very classic 2019 with more grip, girth, intensity and power, though it too shows admirable restraint. This is southern Montalcino richness incarnate without heat, overarching weight or transgressions of the flesh. A very fine Etichetta labeled Brunello should be like this – confident and strong but never demanding too much from our palates. We the tasters are keenly aware of this sangiovese condition and respect what’s in this bottle. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Coesioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

A three-part blend between three Montalcino producers and friends; Riccardo Talenti, Tomasso Cortonesi and Francesco Rippacioli, with the proceeds of their projects going to local hospitals. Three farmed plots in very different parts of Montalcino and so whether the fruit comes from La Mannella, I Poggiarelli, Montosoli, Canalicchio di Sopra, Sant’Angelo in Colle, Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Ciacci Piccolomini, Collemattoni or Giodo is not the point. The combinative fruit sources will change from vintage to vintage but they are always high quality fruit sources. Here from 2018 the linearity and verticality of the vintage is captured and expressed as a Brunello that is a true cuvée composed by three studious Montalcino minds. There are times when three men like this could and likely should not agree how to layer and stick their fruit to create something special, but this is the exact opposite. It is a seamless wine with three-part tannic harmony (though not yet resolved) and all parts falling along a line with one trenchant purpose. Plenty of savour, a classic balsamic finish, some resins and drying notes too. This may as well be Riserva because it carries itself in such regard. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Col di Lamo di Giovanna Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A Diletta 2019

Conti Costanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colle Al Matrichese 2019

Take a moment, reflect even before this has even begun, focus the senses and prepare for a long connection with a 2019 from Andrea Costanti. A Brunello di Montalcino that graciously requests full attention paid because vineyard, experience and vintage have taken no liberties as it pertains to what is the necessary requiem. Aromatic wealth void of force and punch without gratuity comes out of the glass like an apparition gliding through the halls of a medieval edifice. They are sweet, flowing and casually swift. The palate and mouthfeel are one in the same – in most wines made everywhere around the world this is simply not the case. Acidity is right and it is bloody correct – whatever that means but in this case it’s true. Costanti tannins are always their best self but then there are 2019 tannins which elongate with elastic ease, always stretching forwards and return they will though it is hard to say when that will happen. It just does not happen on the finish, which is something impossibly so. Who would not wish to be frozen in this youth, impeccably fresh, limber and athletic? May act this way with generosity and charm for decades. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted November 2023

Corte Pavone Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Campo Di Marzo 2019

Singular, unassailed and yet availing 2019 Vigna from Campo Marzio that may just be the most mature fruit set from a Brunello that digs deeps into sangiovese’s Montalcino depths. Fleshy yet not exactly unctuous and certainly far from cloying but this leaves an impression of red fruit aromas followed by substantial mouthfeel. Tannins are layered, variegate and in their grippiest moments severely intense. Does not mean austerity but does indicate several years are needed to untether ties, unfold creases and embolden bonds that will make this the Vigna 2019 it surely wants to be. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Fiore del Vento 2019

Fiore del Vento is not Campo Marzio, nor should it be and yet their connection and bond are what put them in the same family of Vigna Brunello from vineyards that share location but also elevation and winds. As in this one where Fiore thrives and so Brunello di Montalcino is represented from a unique perspective. Fiore delivers more natural fruit sweetness and less lift, similar wood texture and in the end a softer, rounded and quicker to enjoy experience. Drink this ahead of Campo Marzio, though after the classico label. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Fior di Meliloto 2019

Fior di Melioto is almost entirely unique though of course the DNA is shard with the four other ‘19s by Corte Pavone. This is expressive of the greatest aromatic perfume and lift of them all in a sangiovese of so much accumulation and concentration. It would appear that the sun and the best of the vintage shone on this parcel, not to the defect of others but this just shows more. Everything falls into place with Fior di Melioto and here is the Brunello that breaches the line to put Loacker’s deep dive into vineyard investigations into a whole new light. The next is here, the impression left one that will linger for longer than memory ever remembers and in the end we are moved by this next level of transformation. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

La Mannella Vineyard

Cortonesi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG La Mannella 2019

Tomasso Cortonesi’s quip is messaged through the mouth of Francesco Ripaccioli: “When you have no space you have money. So you build a cellar and then you have space – but you have no money.” Appropriate irony from a northwestern Montalcinese winemaker whose La Mannella history has been one of Tetris – but that will soon change. The quality of his wines from this property arrive at peak form with an outstanding 2019 and going forward new cellar space will help to raise the bar. A bar set by these two Brunello boys who bottle in May because “that’s when the Annata are ready.” Also allows a rest period for six months in bottle ahead of Benvenuto Brunello and eight before a January release. Tomasso’s ’19 is fragrant but the kind at dusk on a cool November day in Montalcino, just like an hour ago. The most natural sweetness in a La Mannella sangiovese that has ever been noted and that makes for a Brunello you can find early gratification, but deeper down is the understanding concerning a sangiovese with fortified structure. Purely, expressly La Mannella, fresh and of a Brunello with great purpose. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2023

Poggiarelli Vineyard

Cortonesi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggiarelli 2019

The artist formerly known as I Poggiarelli dropped the “I” in 2012 because, “like Facebook,” jokes Tomasso Cortonesi. These vines were planted in 1990 by father Marco and the original block furthest northeast in the vineyard from 1972 was put in by Tomasso’s grandfather. A windy place overlooking the Orcia Valley and surrounded by heavy forest. A fresh location and from ’19 comes the uncanny scent of a just bitten into fresh peach. It’s almost unfathomable how openly aromatic Poggiarelli is, for itself and also for any that have been tasted over the years. Walk the vineyard (which we did today) and the landscape within the forests will tell you so much about what is needed to know. Worth noting this is the first vintage with 15-20 percent of whole bunches in the fermentation (lasting 15-20 days). The bunches are small and the stems come out brown and dark. This was the suggestion from consulting oenologist Paolo Caciorgna. “If we don’t try, we never know,” says Cortonesi and the purpose is to induce some more volume on the wine. A risk because Brettanomyces can creep in to munch on sugars trapped inside the whole berries, especially when you rack. The attack can occur in the blink of an eye so timing and the quickest transitions must be executed, some sulphites added, all the while keeping care of pH. These are the actions that can be done to keep the microbes away. Success in 2019 without any doubt because the clarity, purity and precision of this Vigna Brunello are all in peak form. May be the earliest accessibility of a Poggiarelli yet longevity should not be questioned. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted November 2023

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Progetto Prime Donne 2019

Sidestepping away from the Annata here into the Primedonne for a Donatella sangiovese that is their vintage Brunello incarnate, rich and seasoned, vertical and expressive because it is made with reason. Lends credence for an example of what Brunello can be if more importantly become out of a gathering fixed into a moment in time. This is exactly the kind of 2019 that will act, look and taste differently each and every time because it is fickle, emotional and the most moving target in Montalcino wine. Note the acidity is never warm or cool, but always clean. For now the structure locks fruit tight and shows no sign of movement. Important for the vintage because there are many that did not find this gear, nor the potentiality of targets. Primedonne owns some and looks at many. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Fanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vallocchio 2019

Vallocchio the vineyard is a prized hillside block and expectation calls for excitement ahead of a taste, if also because the vintage should likely deliver top quality fruit. That it does but also supplies a structural set dubitably more serious from Valocchio for ’19. A verticality imagined as statuesque and so curious because many Brunelli of the vintage are ones of deep fruit impression, yet this is clearly not. There is austerity and trenchant intendment from Fanti, not entirely out of character but it shows that the family really wanted to make a serious sangiovese of longevity from and for the vintage. In this regard the classicism and heritage are followed so be aware, stay alert and exercise some patience. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted November 2023

Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Fiore 2019

If the large quantity label of Annata-Classica will show youthfulness, wood and structure to need a few years further age than the single vineyard sangiovese will require two times the amount, at the very least. Vigna del Fiore fruit is deeper but also darker, richer in terms of texture and full of parts more developed. More than that are perfumes and spicing that demand attention while the interaction between fruit and structural parts are working through their motions. Having tasted the 2015 just the night before and finding it just beginning to reveal scenes two through four within act one notes tells us that 2019 VdF is likely 10 years away from that launching point. Sure it can be enjoyed to the fullest in five to seven years but the best will be a few more after that. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2023

Fattoria La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ciliegio 2019

Substantially increased concentration and suitably more depth from the canasta of Ciliegio while we understand that specific vineyard fruit is responsible for such a sangiovese excitation. If 2019 classica is youthful and not quite ready then getting a load of these sangiovese laces pulled tight in a Ciliegio is impossibly immovable. Some minutes in the glass makes a good difference but not nearly enough to coax out full grace and charm. There’s that lift once again but this time the acidity is both sweeter and dustier so that balsamic really makes a play. The style is modern that much is known and the riches luxe because ripenesses and extractions are each their partner for what is a very focused plan. Mouthfeel is exceptional, neither too silken or emulsified but somewhere elegantly hovering in the space between. Feels like air or space above and also below but also to both sides because this is not a round but rather a linear constructed wine. There is no happenstance but there is coincidence, as a La Magia Brunello and also as it connects and expands from the Annata label. An extra year would be preferred and the end point looks further ahead, as it must. More solid work from Fabian Schwarz. Should outlive the classica by five years at minimum. Only 2,000-2,500 bottles are produced, on the higher end with thanks to the vintage. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2023

Franco Pacenti Brunello Di Montalcinio DOCG Rosildo 2019

The Etiquetta Rosildo is an easy and understandable transference from Franco Pacenti’s Annata label in Brunello for the 2019 vintage. What separates this sangiovese more than anything are its hyperbole of perfumes, aromatic fruits and seasoning that jump from the glass so much stronger with heightened expression. Neither peppery nor spicy but more so the effect felt from smelling the roses and opening jars to see which fragrance your intuition tells to spice what dish you are preparing. And so yes what you have here is a Brunello of gastronomy, a wine the chef has prepared and it is a complex one. The tannins here are very taut and compact, the probability for ageing much higher and potential truly serious. Impressive ’19 this Rosildo, up there with the vintage’s best. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted November 2023

Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Castelgiocondo 2019

Such a lovely and forthright perfume to Castelgiocondo with fruit well extracted if judiciously so. This means balance from the get go and that is most appreciated with knowledge of there being ambitious potential from a vintage so high in quality. Yet the Frescobaldi team stays the course and delivers another consistent Brunello di Montalcino for loyal consumers and then to the budding adoration of a new generation alike. Such a solid wine of fruit, acid and tannin each equally and naturally sweet, one after another around the circumference, in perpetuity. Just a touch sappy at the finish but that is neither a distraction nor is it a crime. So well representative of the denomination and vintage. Quantity and quality. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Pieve Santa Restituta

Pieve Santa Restituta – Gaja Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Rennina 2019

For Angelo Gaja Rennina is akin to Barbaresco while Sugarille is like Barolo but this is Tuscany, the grape are sangiovese and so the wines are each their own entity. This Rennina is from a classic vintage when such a thing is rare these days, which means true località savour, cool herbal notes and wood that does not obfuscate Rennina’s reality. A pied de cuve alcoholic fermentation, followed by a week or two (as in 2019) of malolactic fermentation, “to fix the poly-phenolics” explains winemaker Nicola Vaglini. This happens half and half in wood and steel but the former is preferred to fix colour and stabilize the wine. Tonneaux is very much involved and bâtonnage has created an emulsified, filled in mid palate but overall the expression is from a mix that works empirically out of a sense of place. A richness and an impeccably dressed quality about this Brunello but it’s the more grounded and accessible of the two. You really do have to appreciate the freshness of the sangiovese. Feels warm on the finish which is the tannin speaking so allow two to three years for Rennina to find its calm. After that it should linger for 10 more without really changing much at all, with thanks to its terrific tension. Should also outlast Sugarille because it’s more elastic. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted November 2023

Pieve Santa Restituta – Gaja Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sugarille 2019

Sees 24 months in wood (tonneaux and 30-60 HL botti) then six months in concrete. There are vintages however, especially warm ones when the wines need to be put back to tonneaux for a few extra aging months, given further bâtonnage and back to Botti again. This happened in 2019. The bigger, broader, more muscular and also austere of the two Brunello is Sugarille, the Barolo if you will but again Tuscan sangiovese is emphatically not nebbiolo. The truth is at first in the pudding of the aromas, sweetly herbal and floral, but then the palate is another matter altogether, built with layers upon layers of micro-oxygenated fruit and the kind of tannins that are compact, demanding and as mentioned – austere. Everything is elevated and magnified in Sugarille – you can surely see why it will age longer or more importantly once that happens it will change and move through secondary motions with greater haste then Rennina. Oxidative notes will usher in bosco, the forest floor, porcini and tartufo after 10 years or so. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Chiuse di Sotto 2019

Classic perfumes from Laura at Gianni Brunelli and its Le Chuise di Sotto origins where red cherry fruit and balsamic accents coexist, heightened and fortified with 2019 fruit. A vintage of both intensity and also layering, seamless integration of all parts that can’t help but be rendered into some form of ethereal liquidity. Juicy and of a particular Montalcino twang because place and vintage come together for this tart red fruit molasses with singularly exotic spiced accents. Style and necessity are in the house for Gianni Brunelli. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Gorelli Giuseppe Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Gorelli’s 2019 is unlike any other and while that can be said about many Montalcino Brunello in this case the clarity of that comment makes great and knowable sense. The aromas are particular, high casted, tonal, lifted and akin to scraping hard red fruit skins, getting their citrus musk under your nails and staying with you as you work through your day. Long lasting aromas part agricultural and part gastronomical. The Gorelli 2019 is also economical with neither gratuitous nor wasted moments. There is no distraction save for some botti texture that needs to melt a bit and find union with the excellent perfumes. The balsamic note late confirms the circle of sangiovese life to say longevity will be the right kind. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

Il Marroneto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Madonna Delle Grazie 2019

The label of Alessandro Mori’s Madonna Delle Grazie had not ever changed but today the name of the farm is more prominent than the denomination. This is now essential to Mori because things and times have changed. In his opinion too many Brunello di Montalcino are not representative or respectful of heritage, familial and estate culture but especially the genius loci of place. Too many that have lost the way and are brands, built by marketing and hollowness. The question here and of more importance with respect to Madonna Delle Grazie is do we like the wine? The answer is an emphatic and quite frankly epiphanic yes. The MdG’s power is not about killing you softly but instead holding onto and gripping the senses by explaining with unequivocal doubt what it means to be sangiovese grown at 420m on the northeastern slope of the Montalcino hill. This 2019 gains your full and complete attention at first with scents kicked up from underfoot on a moonless November night, but then by truth explained through differences made abundantly clear. Depth and profundity exceeding the majority of wines from this vintage, even while many of them would try to sku the mind to want to believe. You may until you taste a Brunello like this and Alessandro insists that you shouldn’t allow “50 percent of the wines make you think think the vintage is not great, because 2019 is fantastic.” He would of course be correct and his Vigna is hyper real but also generous. Acidity is essential and here dominant to help keep this sangiovese see to decades of enjoyment. What’s so incredible is how we don’t even talk about tannin in Il Marroneto’s Brunello, not because they are not there, nor are they taken for granted. They are pure and woven into the fabric, as they should be. Keep in mind this is not Riserva. “Only nature can decide what will become a Riserva. It has to be a monster.” Drink 2027-2045. Tasted November 2023

Il Palzzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Due Porte 2019

Le Due Porte is the name of the vineyard taken from the località of that name and the vineyard geology is unique, based on two variations of sandstone. One is Arenaria, ubiquitous to Tuscany and the other Pietranera, the Montalcino way of saying Pietraforte. Just like what happens from vintage to vintage with the Annata (classico) the same occurs for the “two doors.” In other words an exaggeration of Il Palazzone riches, from scents specific to these lands through silken glycerol mouthfeel and finally the knowable balsamic that is this place. More wood is felt to no surprise from truly traditional Brunello di Montalcino that sticks to its heritage in the production and refinement of sangiovese that could only come from this estate. The age abilities for Le Due Porte will indeed be long and fruitful. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Fiore Di NO 2019

Notably next step up and level for 2019 sangiovese with more aromatic presence and especially seasoning which is clearly the calling of Etichetta and even more so Vigna-designated wines. Shows off more and more special parts, expresses more feelings of place and doubles down on culture with respect to heritage and tradition. This too takes nothing for granted and so Fiore di NO should and will be respected for its gentle and restrained nature. Fine sangiovese is a good thing. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

La Fortuna Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Giobi 2019

Etichetta labeled 2019 Giobi is a fine step forward and up for La Fortuna, fruit of a similar if surely richer ilk. You can really feel the extra levels and layers of constituent parts that form, build and mold this sangiovese into the full and substantial edifice it is. Should drink well for a decade and a half from now. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Pieve 2019

More settling and caution comes from La Pieve of fruit quite proper and well utilized in a dozen ways that best the Annata label for La Gerla. Still the tones and lift run high but that fruit is respected and the cask aging of much less distraction. This would be a very solid classica and as a Vigna Brunello it’s serviceable if unexceptional. Not the most ideal vintage for La Gerla where some challenges were surely faced. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Le Gode Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Montosoli 2019

Single sight stage presence is Le Gode’s 2019 act, of ripeness, cooling effects, sweet savour, clarity and purity. Like the Annata but a bit more concentrated while also expressive of the place, that being the important hill just to the northern sector of the higher and more historic centre. Everyone wants a pice of Montosoli and the Ripaccioli part in the hands of precocious makers like Carlotta Ripaccioli is a big deal. It’s real responsibility and this 2019 shows just how much care, sweat, passion and especially maturity are how collective respect is being shown to these crucial Montalcino vineyards. Once again tannins are not the driver and acidity lifts fruit up higher but still within a sphere of influence, gentle touch and style. A well made and frankly volupté Montosoli if not really one to lose in the cellar. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Manapetra 2019

As expected and predicted Vigna Manapetra takes up where the classica label leaves off and squares the parts for an ideal extrapolative extension that speaks so well this young. The fact that such substantial fruit comes swelling out of vineyard and into glass means that wood and tannins act calmer, sweeter, finer and more developed. Here is just lovely and full Vigna Brunelllo that will drink well as early as La Leccaia and also longer though it will be hard to avoid consuming whatever bottles are ever popped and whenever that happens. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Persante 2019

Lovely swirl of fruit richness in Le Rasina’s Etichetta Brunello 2019 and acidity that marches along stride for stride. Gentle swarthiness as well, an effect of all kinds of soil, weather and conditions but in harmony no matter the sidestepping of subtle sauvage. Chewy wine with crispy edges, angles if not sharp ones and some proper austerity in the drying tannins. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Casanovina Montosoli 2019

There is the temptation to say that northern Montalcino vineyards are no longer cooler, even while they are surely that as compared to the south. Montosoli is still a cool place and the sangiovese may be ripe from 2019 but its structural backbone is one of austere tannins and near raging acidity. Though this is true the vintage gifts some pretty succulent and fleshy fruit with orange zest, tart peach and red citrus running amok. Bit off a wild vintage for Casonovina, not in a sauvage, funky sausage or swarthy way, but the austerity meeting juicy tang and a feeling of “animale” makes for a seriously notable act of sangiovese intensity. The potential is for the whole and the profound so exercise patience, come back in three years and then let the games begin. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Passo del Lume Spento 2019

Passo del Lume Spento is the newest addition though by now an experienced Vigna Brunello from 620m which puts it at the perch of elevation for sangiovese in Montalcino. No surprise there is more light, extreme freshness and also tightly wound sangiovese which means that of the five Brunello made by Riccardo Campinoti it is this that seems the least vintage obvious. Consistency is ingrained into this sangiovese’s nature and perfumes are what define not only its entry but its destination. That and tannin which is drying, austere and profound – this is what puts this near unicorn of of Montalcino wine in vintage light because fruit, flesh and texture will almost certainly keep up for what could be a very long and slow process on the path to maturity. This is a really ideal vintage for this wine to find its next gear with a coursing mineral mix of karst and also flesh from bone. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted November 2023

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Petroso 2019

Petroso is the newer of vineyard plantings at the estate just to the south of Montalcino village and like Passo del Lume Spento is now coming into its own. High elevation though not quite like PDLM but still height matters in terms of solar radiation, day for night temperatures and freshness incarnate. A deeper tone here both from clay and sand but also vintage with 2019 delivering all the goods so that plenty of flesh hangs on these sangiovese bones. This has so many layers to peel away and to reveal what more there is to be discovered. It would be wise to point out how many people will likely fall in love with this most unctuous of Riccardo Campinoti’s Petroso but it currently lacks the complexity of the other Vigna wines. Just a bit of chalky bitterness at the finish suggests the tannins need to resolve to bring in the question of age. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino V.V. DOCG 2019

Yes V.V. stands for Vecchie Vignes, old vines in other words and so come for the concentration, stay for the vintage party. Richness out of ripeness squared and yet acidity preserved for freshness kept no matter the Brunelllo by Le Ragnaie. There is that blood orange juiciness again, not quite 2013 sanguine but it’s there in an almost succulent and mouth-watering way. Though there is austerity there is so much to back it up and the parts are each in their correct place. Makes for a focused sangiovese with great potential. The tannins here are riper and less chalky than Petroso, the finish cleaner, again fresher and the final result quite satisfying. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Loreto 2019

A similarity or thread comes into the single Loreto vineyard label though this is clearly amplified and more substantial sangiovese. Fuller and also more tannic with some tension between the fruit and its structural parts. More wood obviously and the modern sort that needs to dissolve before occupying new areas of a Brunello that shows really good length. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Schiena d’Asino 2019

Top parcel for Mastrojanni on two adjacent slopes in declension from a shared ridge between with 360-390m of elevation. One faces southeast and the other southwest, planted together in 1975. Just about 45 years of age and in 2019 picking was on October the 2nd. Sees 42 months in 16hL Allier barrels though you’d never know it because the French wood is so beautifully integrated. Surely herbal, brushy and balsamic on the nose but that is just a fraction of the generosity and the complexity this Vigna (or in a sense Vigne) Brunello is wanting to give. Crunchy sangiovese is just this type and if it’s not yours then you may not be paying attention. A serious glass of Brunello here, layered with variegate stony terroir feels and fruit captured in its veritable essence. Vigna Schiena d’Asino is one of the wines that define the vintage, especially for the southern reaches of Montalcino. Those who choose to afford a bottle should purchase at least two because the temptation is real and one may just have to be sacrificed early to see what all this fuss is about. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted January 2024

Máté Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Veltha 2019

Veltha is altra tipologia as in a fantasy name for a Brunello that essentially means a “selection” of vineyards, vines or casks. Imagination kicks in because this is what Veltha (from Etruscan mythology, Voltumna or Veltha was the chthonic – relating to or inhabiting the underworld deity) who became the supreme god of the Etruscan pantheon, the deus Etruriae princeps, according to Varro. Essentially a more calm if luxe, suave and silken version of a Máté Brunello with more juiced orange and blood orange than the classica. Veltha’s structure is already softening and so the drinkability is high though agea-ability less so. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2023

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ofelio 2019

Ofelio is altra tipologia as in a fantasy name for a Brunello that essentially means a “selection” of vineyards, vines or casks. Clear, present and devilishly dangerous sangiovese because like the Classica there is volume, dimension and great acidity. What takes it further is the spice component and the intoxication of fragrance. A much fuller expression but also one with great fantasy. This Ofelia will age and it may be really important to let that happen. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Pinino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Pinino 2019

Vigna Pinino of an iteration that was gifted all the best vintage fruit so that the classica label is really all wood and not much else. The Vigna is a better if still spiced and toasty example. Still it’s more wood than anything else and quite lactic within the overall mix of wood and lavender paste. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2023

Podere Giardino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Tracce 2019

Highly unusual for a 2019 Brunello and in this case also for the declamation in general. Sappy, resinous and artificially constructed aromas indicate faults, non-traditional style and suspect winemaking practices. From southerly vines near Sant’Angelo in Colle and a long (36 month) aging time spent in French wood. Soaked up too much, clouded the fruit and in the end there is high alcohol and a lack of balance.Tasted November 2023

Sebastian Nasello

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Cielo di Ulisse 2019

A team of 33 strong manages a 100,000 total bottle production for Francesco Illy’s Podere Le Ripi. In 2016 the estate grew from 12 to 34 hectares and is today under the guidance of CEO and Winemaker Sebastian Nasello. Two terroirs for Brunello, to the east Castelnuovo and Camigliano area in the west. Cielo Di Ulisse is Brunello from the latter, bottled back in May. This alluvial terroir is shared with Antinori’s Pian delle Vigne, of lower elevation down by the river with a surround of forest. A place that struggles in rainy seasons with an average yield of 6-7 tonnes per hectare. Other estates here are Cupano and Elia Palazzesi. This is a terroir where the ancient retreating river moved and left behind sand, outcrops of Galestro, erosion and run-off down from the hill of Campo del Drago and Capanna. Some Pietraforte is also found. Has settled in with six months refinement and the vintage is one “where both the (western and eastern” sectors performed in a positive way.” No real stressors, quality and quantity, higher yields in their alluvial area where that schisty Galestro and also the Pietraforte have their place. Fine, clean and precise for Montalcino, a transparent red juiciness and succulence that shows early picked sangiovese and captured acidity, both at their ripest for the time and place. There is an underlying earthiness, neither chalky nor sous bois but something sweetly vegetal. Fine and also a beef bone marrow quality, a bit grasso” grassy and oily. Flows naturally and lingers long. Likely some this label’s better to best tannins though pH is under control and the aforementioned acidity stays strong. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia DOCG 2019

At Castelnuovo in the east the challenge is in the hot vintages where the silty, sandy calcarativo terroir is not high in limestone nut more like a calcareous dust. Also a calanico of clay so the geology is quite diverse. The key overarching plan is to find balance between phenolic maturity and acidity. “We are one of the first to pick,” tells Sebastian Nasello, starting at the beginning of September, even the end of August. “I want to work on the pH as best I can and not lose the spicy acidity.” He also insists on capping alcohol at 14.5 percent, especially when working with natural ferments and low use of sulphites. “Amore E Magia” is Brunello from Le Ripi’s estate vineyards, specifically the single plot of Magia and so here is a label that combines love and the place. A warmer place and because of the easy and low stress vintage this would have been picked very early, right at the advent of September when acids ran high, pH had yet to rise and tannins were still just a bit green. Fermented in foudres, aged in grandi botti (by Bozen) for 28 months, followed by concrete for eight or nine more. Shows fuller body but also depth of fruit than the Cielo though less brightness and excitability. It’s a matter of place and it should be supposed also style though cousins are kin and these wines know one another very well. The variegate tannins express character and lend this Brunello its personality. Mixed geology at this farm has much to do with the wine’s final result. Ageing should be long. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted November 2023

Tasting Poggio Antico

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Vigna I Poggi 2019

Poggi is the cru within the cru, the vineyard at the highest point of the estate (upwards of 600m) and planted in 2005. “Ten years ago the wines that came out of this vineyard were too fresh,” admits Alessio Sostegni. The evolution of the vineyard has come to act out a meeting of concentration and acidity for a guarantee of freshness and so deserves to be a Vigna-designate Brunello. Aging includes some 23 hL Stockinger botti and this is a wine that shows the recent beneficial changes made at Poggio Antico. Speaks to climate change but also higher attention paid to organics, sustainability and the fact that the estate is an isolated one and every vintage is very different. Replaces the more ubiquitous Altero label which was a barrel selection and now Vigna is both a reflection of change but also necessity, if only because PA doesn’t need to rely on the idea of barrel selection to make a next level wine. It means the team is evolving and doing what is right today. Lots of limestone and schist derived Galestro, poor soils and the sangiovese delivers citrus, like blood orange (including zest and pith), the idea of bergamot, but also a very unique mineral chalkiness that streaks through the entirety of the wine. That is the language of soils talking and it is a taster’s imperative to pay close attention. The days of Altero were those that tried to impress but I Poggi changes the discourse and now the wine is about making an impression. This is very worth getting hands on a few bottles. There are not so many available. Approximately 7,000 bottles produced. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

Ridolfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Donna Rebecca 2019

Donna Rebecca Etichetta Brunello 2019 is a sangiovese of great hyperbole as it pertains to the Annata of the same season. More of the cooler climate perfumes, upticks in acidity and lift, uptakes of seasoning and all the green elements from low lying bushes and high arching trees. Also an element of glycerol and unctuous texture. Finding the VA and the wood resins a bit over the top in this vintage. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Ruffino Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Greppone Mazzi 2019

Greppone Mazzi is in fine form from 2019 with about as much cherry red fruit capture as ever before. A haute couture of Brunello from Ruffino and their eastern Montalcino estate where warm days and nights for days on end add up to so much sun accumulation for ripe and ready Brunello. No lack of flavour and texture here, nor acidity and austere tannin neither. Needs time, food and the best situation. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2023

Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piaggione 2019

The estate was sold to Sabine and Felix Eichbauer in 2017 but all four Brunello (including three single vineyard labels) continue to hold great respect for the work of Francesco Leanza. Piaggione was Leanza’s Riserva and while the Eichbauers have transferred that power into Teatro, there is no loss of love for this single vineyard. Not hard to notice the extra layer of concentration and fruit layering from Piaggione and so that austerity and compactness in the Annata is lessened and forgiven through this Brunello. A finer expression that feels rounder and more natural but recent history does remind us that Piaggone’s tannins are sneaky ones waiting in the wings and shadows of the hidden meaning of the wine. Once again I am reminded of tasting the freshest pre-alcoholic fermentation fruit from the vat and with this kept in mind there is power in the knowledge of prediction. Piaggione also shows the slightest lift and Bretty moment but its tannins are sound and the sangiovese stays juicy from beginning to end. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2023

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sorgente 2019

The most substance and power comes from Sorgente, much more than Piaggione and clearly as compared to the classica Annata. What’s also evident is the tension between parts, all elastically tied in tether to one another, stretching, expanding and contracting on what seems like an endless or perpetual basis. Moments of acting crispy, chewy and crunchy are on the cycle and so fruit, acid and tannin all take turns, one after another, then back to the beginning again. The wheel keeps on turning and we don’t know where Sorgente will be tomorrow but the ferment, elévage, aging and now bottle time have all gone extremely well. This will age somewhat indefinitely and become a Brunello for the ages. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted November 2023

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Helichrysum 2019

More volume and substance of course when you taste Helichrysum side by each with Katia Nussbaum’s classica but still the restraint and the stream of consciousness charm is what you seek in this fantasy of a wine. The cask is yet to fully integrate and the piques of spice fill the spaces in between, but given four years this will show its grace. At 10 it will accompany you for a memorable meal. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2023

San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino Podernovi DOCG 2019

Podernovi takes perfume and aromatic seasoning to another level for a San Polo Brunello and 2019 answers the call for such effect-reward. Spiced with salt and pepper, red pepper flakes, an almost kimchi spiciness and complexities running hither, thither and amok. A fine example of Etichetta from a prized vineyard location and all the possibilities in effect for probabilities going forward. Really well made. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vignvecchia 2019

Next level richness and concentration from the old vines Annata, above and beyond both classica and Podernovi. That said the Vignavecchia also holds cards for things Podernovi does not and lacks parts that its sister uses to great effect. The old vineyard knows experience and makes use of that acumen for a sangiovese of depth and complexity. It misses the precocious nature and liveliness of Podernovi but truth is this wine is years away from being ready and will outlive the others for a long and generous life. The tension in this wine tells us about these matters and so put them away, forget about them and return in four or more years time. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted November 2023

Siro Parenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Pelagrilli 2019

There is some surprise in the higher tonality and lift out if Siro Pacenti’s Pelagrilli because as an Etichetta label the expectation might have been richerm more baritone and somber style. Not the case in fact it’s the purity and transparency that sets this sangiovese apart from the Classica bottle. There is in fact more wood that is noted on the palate and the wonder will be if more than just Botti are used. The lavender, graphite and violets suggest otherwise and while major complexities are emitted there is this sense that a grand amount of time will be needed to integrate the parts of this ’19. A full expression of Brunello indeed, oscillating and moving in circles, especially on the palate. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2023

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piero 2019

Always bears reminding that Piero is a single vineyard at the estate below the village of Sant’Angelo in Colle that spends 24 months in tonneaux (new, second and third passage). The finale becomes a blend of these vessels in whatever increments are necessary to invoke and cement harmony. This vineyard designate wine also delivers the greatest sweet acids that make the fruit seem as ripe as is conscionable but the truth is something different. A marriage of cherry and peach with spicy pomegranate and it is the freshness of this sangiovese that piques the nose with a peppery tickle. It’s uncanny how Piero’s concentration always seems to have this effect. Solid if ever so tantalizingly salty, micro-climate conspicuous and then you add in this omnipresent quality of near perfect grapes out of a season that gifted everything – the consensus attitude and conclusion is of a wine that speaks in the clearest Montalcinese vernacular as if it were the language itself. Hard to find any fault or letdown in its presentation and architecture. The tannins are just about 100 percent ripe and as for issues, well there are none. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted November 2023

Tassi Di Franci Franca Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tassi Franci 2019

Rich, spicy and developed fruit with high if cooling acidity for a full aromatic complement that does just that for the vintage. Notable wood to assimilate and resolve before Tassi’s 2019 reaches its goal. Fine work once again and a sangiovese that speaks in very correct terms for its place and time. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2023

Tassi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Colombaiolo 2019

One of a few Colombaiolo single vineyard sangiovese in Montalcino and from Tassi a high toned and mildly swarthy one with a note of Brettanoymces present. Not a large one but it does dry out the finish after what began as an aromatically gregarious sangiovese with knowable potential. Need to find the right food pairing, preferably a traditional cinghiale or coniglio braise with a rich, wine-developed sauce. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ugolforte 2019

Poggio di Sotto’s sister property lower down the hill and under the auspices of the Collemasari group has grown out of its adolescence into a southerly Montalcino adult. The 2019 Ugolforte is ripe fruit cumulate, sweet acid driven and quite structured as compared to most of its first vintages. Wood spice and also those in the cupboard are present in masala form, dried at present while slowly working their way into the rich liquidity of the sangovese. Promise and potential are high with a future that should develop some earthy baritone notes. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Doria 2019

Magnifying classica is often what Vigna and/or Etichetta will do, as here with Nardi’s Poggio Dora. Much more profound fruit richness and layers to peel away but what matters more is how well the concentration stands up to the wood it is more than willing to receive. There is great richness here and there is one much needed tension to see this travel several years into the future. A long finish speaks to that regard. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

With Vincenzo Abbrusseze of Valdicava

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Montosoli 2019

Up until the 1970s Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s maternal grandfather Bramante Martini owned most of the Montosoli hill but he sold it off and in 2008 Valdicava purchased a small piece back, later to make a first Brunello in 2015 with the cru written on the label. Full south facing 1.3 hectare plot that was originally only bottled in 1,500 magnums but the first Classica size comes with this 2019 vintage. It begins with Abbruzzese saying that all great wines have a secret. “Vineyard, vineyard, vineyard,” meaning location, location, location. Montosoli was bottled more recently than the “normale” but still at least a few months back. Considering it has not traveled anywhere (except to the next room) it is surely settled. One of Valdicava’s labels (of a character half man and half woman) is a depiction by the Sienese Renaissance painter Domenico di Pace Beccafumi who painted the Archangel Michele in that tradition. At the time the artist was at odds with his church commissioners. The Montosoli label is of Jesus in Limbo, a then blasphemous image because it was something that did not exist. Abbruzzese is passionate about horses (he owns 30 of them) and also the arts and so the allegories help explain when he says his sangiovese are made “to celebrate that spirit living in a place.” That being Montosoli which from 2019 is rich, structured and immovable, like a Beccafumi that hangs through the centuries. Seriously Galestro-Pietraforte flaky and chalky, so far away from its intended destination. Some yeasty distraction but nothing more, a Montosoli produced with respect to neighbour Elisabetta Gnudi and her holdings at Altesino. Many layers are here to unfold during what will be a long and steady climb before the true notion of sublime and ethereal can be discussed. True balance is in order. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2023

Val Di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Al Granchio 2019

In the words of Angelini Wines and Estates COO Andrea Lonardi MW, Poggio Al Granchio from the eastern side of Montalcino is all about citrus and often unripe, angry tannins. In other words a Brunello of great potential. Poggio al Granchio is clearly high level Etiichetta-Vigna Brunello though in 2019 also rounder and less tension filled than Vigna del Lago. Here the smoothness of style and richness of parts gather for full and substantial sangiovese from which wood is a much greater factor. ‘Tis quite chocolaty and while time will help integrate that wood it will also continue to soften the overall impression we will get form the wine. Goo finishing spice and complex flavours remind us of grape and place but also season. Notable gaminess that is ostensibly and veritably Granchio take over the palate. A sanguine 2019, more than any of the others. a very good Brunello to try, especially in line with the other Val di Suga 2019s. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Val Di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Spuntali 2019

Crunchy Vigna Spuntali from the southwest slope, a place of Mediterranean fauna, especially olive trees and Ginestra. Sols are sandstone and harder Pietraforte that deal in grapes that are spicy, with notes of orange candy and relatively softer tannins. Spuntali exists somewhere on a line between Vigna del Lago and Poggio al Granchio or maybe it is better viewed as a Brunello that combines the best of those other two worlds. Plenty of substantial fruit, more than notable wood, spice and seasoning but also great energy and focus. This Brunello is alive with the season and the fruit it was blessed to provide. There is a bleed of sanguinity but also lift from really high acidity. A cooler collection of sangiovese selected it would seem to result in a 2019 that both rises high and then seeks patience for time. This may just be the pearl in Val di Suga’s oyster and that of its wisdom. Hard not to notice the evergreen on the finish, typical of heavily forested western Montalcino and the always present mint at the finale. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted November 2023

Val Di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Del Lago 2019

It may be the coolest of the three vineyard locations but this 2019 Vigna del Lago is special. It is here hat fruit compounds, layers and develops great richness, like the skins of the grapes within the bunches, keeping the flesh within so fresh and ready to burst. These must have been grapes that needed almost no pressing or “svinatura” because the plumpness and exceptionally clean clarity is near the top of the echelon in Vigna-designate wines. More than ample to generous acidity and also wood takes this to another place altogether for Brunello 2019 that impresses but the next level of impression is several years away. This is as near complete a 2019 Vigna as they come – the future will be really interesting. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Capanna Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Capanna Riserva is just that from 2018, befitting of the appellative profile having taken full advantage of the best fruit available to adhere and to fix a style. This is unctuous and also luxe sangiovese though not as tannic and unforgiving as some. Less crunchy and more silken though those tannins do express a certain expectation as a request for at least two more years of waiting. When they resolve they will do so quickly and so there will be a five year window where this wine will be at its finest before submitting to notes dominated by tartufo and “bosco.” Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2023

Caprili Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Adalberto 2018

“To Alberto” is a fine ode of Riserva and while the 2019 Annata are shining bright it is important to appreciate these next year retrospective looks at a vintage of variability. Riserva from Caprili is true blue appellative sangiovese because its swirl and fruit ooze are part of the distillate liqueur style that define the operation. This is Riserva richness incarnate and anyone looking to be pleased by a style which is precisely how they see it, well ’18 Adalberto will satisfy. Unequivocally a wine that was made with the best selection in order to fulfill promise and gift reward. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2023

Carpineto Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Highly stylized sangiovese from Carpineto and clearly worthy of the Riserva calling if impossible not to notice the place at elevation with as mush southern brassiness as there is in Montalcino. Richness from fruit, sweet acids and wood resins all combine for true Riserva capability and the effort is duly noted. Lovely and stylish ’18 by Carpineto and worthy of accolades to any degree that is wished to be forthcoming. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Collemattoni Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Fontelontano 2018

A healthy liqueur in this Fontelontano Riserva Brunello from Collemattoni and a sangiovese expressive of something more than Annata can provide. A Brunello of major fruit and near equal cask, swirling if also oozing with naturally sweet red fruit flavours and a complimentary sweetness that wood is want to provide. This is very specific and beautiful in its very own way, neither lifted nor austere but in a way rounded, smooth, creamy and as mentioned, highly distinct. Some are vertical and some travel the circumference of a circle, creatively and not on a strict line but with the ability to move as a pack of its parts. Such is Collemattoni and many will relish the fineness but also the softness of its style. The source may be from far away but it’s surely one of inspiration, fonte di ispirazione. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted November 2023

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Like the 2019 Annata this Collosorbo Riserva from the previous vintage provides an aromatic mess of spice that dominate within the exotic perfume. Once again this combination of place and winemaking does everything to encourage such a wild masala emission. That would be a località most proximate to Castelnuovo dell’Abate and the abbey of Sant’Antimo is the southeastern part of Montalcino. A place of V-shaped valleys that might be compared to certain parts of Barolo where warm seasons are contrasted and tempered by soils that offer cool respite to vines. A crunchy Riserva here from Collosorbo that uses its spices to make sure the wine is expressed with great complexity no matter the austerity or mild astringency of tannins and the finish. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2023

Corte Pavone Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio Molino Al Vento 2018

The front label does not mention Poggio Molino al Vento, a.k.a. the windmill on the hill but that and this is Riserva with 2018 as its benefactor. A high toned one at that with fruit lifted by acidity that is without compromise a product of western Montalcino elevation and very exposed vineyards. To counteract and balance that effect there is quite a lot of barrel on this 2018 PMaV that trips the switch and transfers light onto the palate. Also a sappiness and richness of wood, not quite creamy but certainly gelid or thickened. Challenging vintage to effect Riserva when several Annata (and Vigna) are produced and this does well to find its legs. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Elia Palazzesi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Collelceto 2018

A wise and by now quite settled example of 2018 Riserva that presents with just about ready to drink amenability. Softening fruit and tannins are on the same page whereby a quick decant or aeration will ready this to be poured. Softer and simpler with easy and rounded corners, a caressing texture and nurturing glass of knowable red fruit sangiovese. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Next level fruit from 2018 Riserva but nothing out of the ordinary for Fattoi or the vintage and yet it’s hard not to see this as a most generous expression of that topsy turvy season. Just as 2019 Annata makes itself available the same can be said for 2018 Riserva. A fine wine of fluidity and brace, comfort and nurturing. Lovely swirl around and around, a round sangiovese but yet there are some tense moments because it is after all sangiovese. Fulsome and plenty of energy in the body politic to dance and please for years to come. Brava once again from the very philanthropic estate and always wine of great heritage. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Ripa al Convento di Castelgiocondo 2018

Full ripeness, concentration and gravitas fills the bottles of Frescobald’s Riserva label for the historic edifice of Ripa al Convento di Castelgiocondo. Here is a Brunello di Montalcino so right and exacting for the times, full advantage of the best aspects of 2018 captured and disseminated by a team of experts. Readier than most ‘18s because of natural fruit sweetness but even more so acidity of a similar if even higher ilk. The tannins are surprisingly unaggressive which allow for access this early in a Riserva’s tenure. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted November 2023

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Not all estates produced Riserva out of 2018 and yet those who did usually made the decision because their vineyard would have reframed better than many. Il Palazzone’s oldest vineyard of 50-plus years is such a place and worthy of gifting fruit for said purpose. This 2018 is blessed of both an aromatic and also textural liqueur that speaks to experience, concentration and finally refinement. There is almost no comparison between the Annata and Vigna ‘18s and this Riserva. Things are both heightened and finer in Riserva though the wine is far from dense. The mouthfeel is silken like organza textile and the fruit beautifully resolved. Acids are quite sweet and the only distraction comes from some vanilla candle-scented, as yet unresolved four and a half years spent aging in wood. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Fruit is worthy and wood is greater in Riserva from 2018 and memory says that Annata was just as expressive if more to the Montalcino point. Still there are important tenets and aspects to Riserva 2018, perhaps even some history in its shadows and things we just don’t know or understand. It’s a wine of the past, or feels like one and hard to predict when it will act more open in the future. Give it a few years to heal its tannic wounds and open up further. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

On a roll is how to best describe La Leccaia’s trajectory because retreating retrospectively back into Riserva 2018 there are emotions in reflections that speak about great Brunello from an estate that is doing yeoman work. Respectful work if modern and the kind of Brunello that appeal to the potential of a growing audience. If Brunello di Montalcino wishes to attract new consumers and lovers than La Leccaia’s wines are part of that plan. Riserva is beautiful, luxe and lovely. That is all. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

La Serena Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Gemini 2018

A much fuller and richer expression of fruit and structure for La Serena and so it is clear that Gemini is the best selection of the estate’s fruit. On top of this fine layering comes quite a bit of wood in saps and resins to make for a Brunello that shows its makers’ hands. Will live a promising life though the wood will always be front and centre and if bottles are opened too distant in the future that fruit will have faded along. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 1-2-3 2018

Perhaps, well in fact more fantasy from the imagination of Patrizia Cencioni and this time in Riserva from the 2018 season. One of success because extra care was surely taken to seek out and select the finest fruit available when less of that substance was available. Full with some thin or at least linear middle ground in which the wood adds weight and resinous fleshiness to make sure the whole package is delivered. Not a top vintage but one done up well and right. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene DOCG 2018

Podere Le Ripi’s location in southeastern Montalcino is key to understanding the positive outlook for a Riserva made out of the 2018 vintage. This from a single vineyard though the vines were still a bit stressed in the year following the extremely hot and dry 2017. And yet they bounced back enough to gift high level concentration of both fruit and tannin, one succulent, the other sweet. “The problem of the climate of today,” explains Sebastian Nasello “is that acids are lost and there is nothing you can do about it.” Nasello does not care about colour or tannins that are not perfectly ripe. Concrete stabilizing and longer aging can correct these things to a certain degree. “High pH is a warning for me.” His philosophy means that in 2018 the pick happened in the middle of September and aging was just about 30 months in the Bozen casks, not much longer than the Annata. That said it was released a full year later (as per the disciplinare) and yet this does in fact show more wood, vintage related for sure as the wine is weightier, unexpected, simply what it is. Still a bit shy and closed but some fatness and roundness will set a sangiovese that drinks dutifully in fine Riserva style not much more than six months from now. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Tasting with Poggio Antico winemaker Alessio Sostegni

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2018

I Poggi is the highest part of the vineyards while Riserva comes from the vines right in front of the cellar, south exposed and the highest concentration of fruit. “Our thinking behind the Riserva is a wine that can last over the years,” first iterated by Riccardo Bogi and oenologist Alessio Sostegni is in total accord. From the “plateau,” and half of the grapes become this volumetric and structured Riserva. Vinification in only stainless steel, four weeks of maceration and just two years in wood; small amount in tonneaux, old 25 hL Slavonian oak and one cask of 40 hL Grandi Botti. “We don’t have a recipe for every year,” says Sostegni. “It depends on the vintage.” You feel the density and the aromatic spice – you will have to be patient with this Brunello because the sauce and the alcohol on the nose are quite peppery strong. Also vanilla, graphite and mix of Amari liqueurs. Right now the lightest fruit elements are rising to the top but with time the wine will swirl, integrate and emulsify. It will come together and show much finer harmony. Approximately 5,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

The Riserva is usually aged for 45 months in one 30 hL cask but the vintage requested that amount of time be reduced and the makers heeded the advice to leave this 2018 fruit for 30 instead. A wise choice because the wood would have almost surely given more than its share to bother and smother the fruit. Why not even less is the obvious question but this is the finest fruit in the finest casks still deserving of a good long slumber. Not to mention 30 years of experience by a team with most members having all been there together. Clearly, unequivocally and universally Poggio di Sotto Montalcino, with the most vertical sangiovese from upwards of 500m at elevation and fruit so pure it aches with reality. Restrained at 14 percent as per the vintage call and acids so precise they give off a sheen that hits when the light is just right. The balsamic is a catalyst and the tannins express as much bright succulence as both the fruit and acids, both of which linger long after the wine has gone. A top 2018 by all accounts. Last tasted January 2024

For Montalcino the 2018 Riserva, as with the Annata before, are extremely variable sangiovese. The best are those born of careful selection after ensuring farming was executed as flawlessly as possible due to the challenge of a wet vintage. Not until 2023 will these great rains repeat though in 2018 they were much later, affecting harvest for those who were unlucky, out of synch or not on time. Poggio di Sotto put in the work and so their ’18 sangiovese was top notch and this Riserva equally so. Well dressed, seasoned and cut like a fine julienne, linear and vertical as a sangiovese must enact for this very particular vintage. Not one for the ages but a fine Riserva that will drink well 10-15 years forward. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Riserva 2018 is very different to Annata 2018 because of vintage obviously but also stylistic decisions. The extra level of spiciness and peppery piques on the nose indicate string cask usage and a sangiovese that has yet to cool itself before it pours as it was intended to. Still the bones are strong and the wine well structured if not entirely an example viewed as truly complex. Good Riserva with good length is always a proper thing. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2023

Poggio San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

Quite the emotion to taste San Polo Riserva alongside its three Annata ‘19s and while some estate’s lose the connection or DNA – that is far from the case for San Polo. This clearly shows that 2018 fruit was spread to all of the children with equanimity but maybe just a bit more love was headed Reserva’s way. Its concentration is on par with Vignavecchia 2019 and it bones as vertical as Podernovi of that same vintage. What it really expresses is blanketing, nurturing and covering warmth. The fruit is exceptional, the length equally so and for the vintage this is a very fine example of the appellation. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2023

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2018

A closed phase for Siesta’s ’18 Riserva which is not entirely surprising, nor is it any great phenomenon. It is a however great Phenomena, of nature, surely once having been ready and forthcoming, now stubborn and set in its ways. This will change and things will change again. A Phenomena of heritage and tradition but always some fantasy I suppose with chalky tannins and greater structure than the pellucid character might otherwise suggest. Not sneaky because what is sneaky but shall we say a sangiovese that waits its turn. Let’s project just for fun and say three to fours years forward with six up to 10 blessed years of sipping after that. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Le Due Sorelle 2018

Bit of a struggle here with Riserva 2018 that’s quite lifted and unsettled. Big mess of fruit and acids, reduced if still quite intensely balsamic out of a very traditional Brunello that shows some vintage ambition. Crunchy to the nth degree, must be accompanied by cultural Montalcino (or Tuscan) cuisine and enjoyed with a group willing to pay close attention to the details in a parochial style of the local sangiovese. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2018

On the lighter and less ambitious side of the Riserva spectrum, not unusual and in fact appreciated from the vintage. A take what 2018 is want to give and pay respect to the levels of fruit concentration and structure made available. There is some sweetness to the acids and a repeat in the tannins with spices and cinnamon heart spiciness to carry fruit energetically forward. Not what some would consider proper in terms of Riserva but drinking really well nonetheless. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Other Vintages and Campione di Botti

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Piaggione 2021 (Campione)

Beautioful perfume that speaks to ’21’s gentle swarthiness. Hard to believe what a settled place in which this has already come to pass. Tells Maximilian Hildebrandt, “if it wasn’t for the frost this would have been a very balanced vintage.”

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Teatro 2021 (Campione)

Just so much more serious, structured and poised, not to say anything negative about Piaggione but it does not hold a vertical candle to Teatro. This is the epitome of finding succulenza reduced in a botte sample, Precision is drawn with an architectural line and if this is in fact muscular you would only know by the verticality of its tannins. A special vineyard but many people think the opposite. The question begs, is Teatro akin to Bourgogne? Perhaps – it’s depth and length are finest.

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Teatro Finari Alti 2021 (Campione)

From the highest (alto) reach of the vineyard, now separated unto itself, smaller berries and like the approach of Lorenzo Magnelli at Le Chiuse who directs this special fruit into Brunello and when the season is right, also Riserva. These small bits of sangiovese fruit of low juice to skin ratio will make an entirely different wine. Crunchy mineral salts and soil elements that induce a particular aftertaste but only after the palate has been fully engaged. Flavours awaken the senses and distract from the tannins, for a spell, but their attack is both delayed and less sever. The fineness here presents the string possibility for epiphanies to come later.

Tasting with Michaela Morris and The Brunello Boys

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Actually from a single vineyard called Vignavecchia Mercatale and the oldest vines planted in 1987 at the border with Ridolfi. Riserva 2019 will not be released for another year plus a few months so this bottled Canalicchio poetry has yet to write its next stanzas after just a few that have been put to memory. And yet the story has a beginning, is moving through its first few maneuvers, schemes and intrigues towards the delivery of much, much more before any final lines are read aloud. Does this Riserva traverse at least the same chasm as between Rosso and Brunello? The answer is emphatically yes and in fact the gap is equally doubled because the sangiovese in cask must have been a monster while it was transferring from post alcoholic fermentation through malolactic fermentation and finally into the final wine it has become. Or not because what is now will not be in a few more years and that refrain will be repeated several times before it is nosed and tasted with any real developed maturity. What we do know is that Riserva 2019 is powerful while elegant, which is the ultimate goal. Drink 2028-2042. Tasted November 2023

Tasting at Biondi-Santi

Older Vintages

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta “Greppo” 2018

“We are in transition period, with new vineyards going in” explains Giampiero Bertolini. He talks about a new approach. “In the vineyard the plant structure and canopies are managed in a new way, with two parts coming up and together, to have the ability to change its trajectory, to open and or close depending on the needs in relation to the weather.” The last vintage and this one are perfect polar opposites of why this new methodology is key. Whereas 2019 is the new release for 90-plus percent of Montalcino producers the Biondi-Santi is always a year later, not because of botti time but because the entire process is measured, structured, painstaking and ultimately timeless. Not really surprising how this ’18 is quiet, demure and slow to release all there is. A cool season overall with 44 days of rain (out of 180 total) from May through to harvest. The second for the new Biondi-Santi team, with the finale postponed to the end of September, after the winds arrived from the north to dry out the vines and then what followed were warmer days and cooler nights. The result is as fresh and aromatically sapid a Biondi-Santi for many vintages as there has recently been. May have been a moody season but the wine is clean, airy, unencumbered and what is referred to as vertical. Fruit yes but not dripping from the flesh because it’s taut, quite this side of leathery and the alcohol quite low at 13.5 percent. When you talk about being careful to respect Biondi-Santi style combined with the concept of a classic vintage then this is exactly the combination of those two ideas. Not an easy vintage but the 180 plus 30 more days of work on this and this alone has made for a wine of perfect response. Will age very well. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2023

Col D’orcia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Nastagio 2018

Not Riserva but rather a late single vineyard release from Col d’Orcia while many others are showing their 2019 Vigna Brunello at the 2023 anteprima. A full and focused sangiovese that does not so much exist between the ’19 Annata and ’18 Riserva Poggio al Vento but in its very own space because that is the nature of a proper and correct single vineyard wine. Noticing some extra stuffing out of 2018 which is notable for the vintage and this extra year has really softened the tannins which from memory are the least austere of the estate’s Brunelli. Lovely Nastagio out of 2018 and worthy of filling glasses for now to seven years forward. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted November 2023

Vineyards at La Magia

Fattoria La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

The largest vineyard faces south between 420 and 480m with Sant’Antimo and Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the valley and distance below. The vineyard was planted west to east between 2005 and 2009, with neighbours being Colombaiolo (Tassi) and Pietroso to the ooposite hill. A bit surprised by how settled the 2018 Brunello is at this stage, quite something considering how youthful it was exactly one year ago. But it has not matured or started out from home. Here a sense and even a moment of truth to prove why we should be tasting and assessing Brunello di Montalcino five years (and not four) after vintage. Breadth of mouthfeel and length on this 2018 is not on par with 2019, but this is something you are already wanting to drink – if you dare because better days do still lay ahead. The current status is very positive and also proper. Last tasted November 2023

A Brunello that clearly separates itself from the pack namely because of the place, at elevation 400-500m in the south-central part of Montalcino surrounded by so much forest, with few neighbours and a wind gap that draws in the right breezes. These are quality tannins, powdery and yet somewhat demanding of the fruit that must work to keep up. It does without suffering, showing more fortitude and punch than many to most, Will live as long as any, in part because of it swarthy swagger. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted November 2022

Fattoria La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ciliegio 2018

No doubt about the uptick inconcentration, quality acidity and overall impression from Ciliegio in La Magia’s 2018. Even this is in a beautiful spot and drinking beautifully but the tannic grains are finer, tighter and less likely to extend into softer days. Give this another two years for that to really begin. Last tasted November 2023

Mostly Basso fruit, meaning the lower part of the old vine, most important vineyard. Quite a large part of new barrel is used, upwards of 80 per cent and the integration is nothing short of remarkable. Fabian is a different sort of winemaker for Montalcino, following his own regime, working by feel and with confidence. Fruit purity is elevated and exulted by the wood and while the barrels simply can’t be hidden there is an impressive display in this age-worthy wine. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2022

Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Luce 2018

Luce is the top (Annata) Brunello drop for Frescobaldi with all of its parts extrapolated and hyperbolizing Castelgiocondo in just about every way. Pure fruit gets no riper even while it is stretched, acids no sweeter and tannins are a factor of the first times the second, but also squared. Cherries macerating in their own über ripe liqueur and a fantasy of the juiciest red melon imagined, bled through this sangiovese with a squeeze of reduced blood orange for good measure but also tang. My goodness this Luce is full of light, flesh and intensity. Magnanimous in every respect, candidly seductive and built to live very long. Wood also delivers a tannic punch above and beyond the fruit. The sample is from a 2018 bottle which is labeled at 15 percent alcohol with this feeling every bit of that number. Style is everything and this is expertly made within that ideal. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted November 2023

Looking west from Il Palazzone

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

From an aromatic and volumetric view the 2018 Annata is quite typical for Montalcino, however as it should the aromatic profile is expressly parochial, meaning it smells like a sangiovese from Il Palazzone. This speaks to a team not trying to put their stamp too direct or with unwarranted ego on the fruit collected to create a cuvée of different vineyard plots. This is the first vintage finished by incumbent consulting oenologist Maurizio Castelli and it’s quite pure, gently evolved and mature for Brunello. Truth is the vintage is a “traditional” one, cool and elongated, regular in the ways of what most winemakers remember about yesteryear Montalcino. The flavour profile is very pomegranate, the acids high and the finish quite balsamic. Tart and angular yet nurturing if at the hands of firm parents and tannins in their rearing. Will come into drinking window in another six months to a year. Last tasted November 2023

Notable for earthy-savoury elements and grip in a righteously composed Annata of purpose and structure. Grabs attention, delivers that fennel-rosemary-garriga and cereal grain that Brunello can be, especially when location is considered. The herbaceousness and evergreen feeling persists for minutes on end. Curious and singular in every respect. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2022

Il Palzzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Due Porte 2018

Up and above or perhaps better said to one side, back across and to the other is this Brunello of a località (local name for the place) to ameliorate a top selection from within a vineyard at the doorstep of the podere. Takes a step up in concentration but also stage presence with extrapolations of fruit, acids and structure. Nothing dense or overfilled about Le Due Porte but the sangiovese more clearly expresses culture and place. Ages longer than the classico Brunello, not in wood but in bottle before release. Again there is something typical here for the vintage and the finish shows the balsamic if also dried herbs and some austerity in the tannins. Highly specific to place, still holding and showing its wood, in need of an extra year above and beyond the Annata. Only produces 2,500 bottles. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2023

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

The 2018 Brunello is simply lovely, easy, gibbous and generous. To call it a normal vintage for Le Potazzine may be simplifying things too much but the Italian word facile and also spigliata deliver the right message from a sangoivese of the nurturing kind. With a glass one feels comfortable, at home, unstilted, never startled and present in the moment. There is also more structure than 2017 and so the wine will linger, evolve at a measured, incremental pace and drink with love for more than a decade’s further time. Such a settled wine of emotion and feeling though never too high, and definitely never too low. Have a glass and you will feel like you are in the home of a Brunello tasting with a family that cares. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted November 2023

The San Guglielmo-Martini family

San Guglielmo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

They are only labels but they send a message. The Rosso depicts a dragon breathing red fire but for the Brunello the colour is gold. Like the sangiovese in this bottle, of more obvious richness as compared to 2019, or perhaps just a bit looser in combination with having aged a year further. Also a matter of picking time from a more challenging vintage with plenty of rain. “Like a race car,” says Michele, “if you have a great car you can win, but you don’t have to always win that way.” Which means you have done something right, as he and Ilaria surely have. This ’18 may not translate the vineyard as knowingly and with the same finesse as ’19, but it’s beautiful nonetheless. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Sant’Angelo in Colle from Talenti

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

In Riccardo Talenti’s estimation 2018 is a very linear and vertical vintage while 2019 shows more breadth and wide shouldered anatomy. So very true as the nose is both mature but also strict, nearing the idea of austere. Also a blood orange note and yes this is quite a sanguine vintage for the Brunello Annata that draws fruit from all nine estate plots. Even the tannins show some austerity and so while this ’18 does not approach the ripeness and generosity of the ’19 it does remind us that Brunello is in the glass, of heritage, culture and tradition. Classicists will adore this vintage of Talenti’s classico. Last tasted November 2023

One of the finer perfumes of any and all from a 2018 Annata by way of Talenti as sangiovese that draws you in with fineness from the start. That said there are aromatic and even more flavour profile notes so singular and unlike just about any other wine. Like pine and porcini, for the first time, freshly plucked needles and fungi pulled direct from the earth. Kind of wild and earthy in that regard with beauty occupying the mind. Bravo Riccardo for this snapshot of your collected vineyards in a wine so silky and of humble design. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2022

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piero 2018

Impressione calma, explains Riccardo Talenti. That is where this 2018 Piero exists at this time. Interesting in that shy and closed is the sensorial translation. Not such a surprise considering the timing and the quality of its elements. It was more expressive this time last year and yet the palate shows very good weight and full substance. A vertical vintage but at this point the wine is quiet, demure and we’re not certain which direction it will travel next. So fascinating and something to look forward to when we hope to have the opportunity this time next year to look at it with Talenti once again. Last tasted November 2023

Quite obviously a rich and beautiful 2018 Piero from Riccardo Talenti, so deserving of its name and ode to a grandfather. Fully resolved, here from the vintage following the heat but really it’s something other, or ulterior yet still exhibitive of intense concentration. Piero is a matter of ultimate respect to the finest and best selected berries. The ’18 is marked or indelibly stamped with Riserva quality tannins, slow developed and only ready well, when they will be ready. Hard to exercise and discover more incremental construction of structural identity than what Piero administers. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted November 2022

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2017

Tasted side by each with 2018 and the two vintages could not be more different from one another. Here the heat is on but as with those Brunello that did the vintage well, acidity is super high and freshness therefore preserved. There is a sense of porcini broth as well to mingle with the classic fragrance only present and surely prevalent in the sangiovese of Le Potazzine. This is neither a wine of super maturation or concentration but the Giannetti-Gorelli family has found the right direction and says Gigliola, “the scent is watermelon.” How can that be, from a vintage where it did not rain for five straight months? Well it is here and it is quenching. Fine, entering its best drinking window and lovely, especially for the season. Last tasted November 2023

From the moment the Potazzine perfume comes from the glass it is known that few if any Montalcinese 2017 Brunelli will be like this. The advantages are manyfold, a northwest location, high elevation above 500m, later picking times, natural and longer fermentation, no filtration. Even in a vintage like this the women of Le Potazzine, Gigliola, Viola and Sofia can look to take risks for eventuation at reward. More herbal and savoury than ’16 and less concentrated than ’15 but still exhibits characteristics consistent with those bigger and easier vintages. As cool, fresh and salty as it can get but always with that perfume. Le Potazzine style, unassuming and bellissima. Drink 2023-2031. Tasted November 2021

San Guglielmo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2017

From one extreme to another, throwing away fruit (in 2018) due to mould, then to a vintage so dry and hot you just can’t afford to toss anything in the compost. No worry about concentration, “so you play with the lees,” explains Michele, “keep the (fermentative) cap wet and macerate less.” Such a well made, composed and gift of Brunello, ample of concentration, fine acidity preserved and more focus than many. Found harmony that will clearly be a mainstay of future vintages in Brunello but also known because of tasting Rosso 2020 and 2021. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piero 2017

A year later and 2017 is very expressive, showing its wares and character worn on both sleeves. Rich as any 2017 was and could still be, acids better than anyone could have ever imagined and indeed predicted from the hot and dry vintage. Yet this ’17 Piero sweeps with a mess of perfectly managed Talenti fruit. The blood orange and sanguine character, the spicy palate and finally the taut chalky tannic push. There are many years of life left on Piero and this is not considered or written flippantly. Structurally speaking this wine is as permanent as they come. Last tasted November 2023

Riccardo Talenti’s Brunelli spend over two years ageing in fine Allier and Slavonian oak. Pian del Conte is a Riserva from the oldest vineyards, near the centre of the estate (400m above sea level) and only made in exceptional years. This selezione Piero comes from two of the 20 estate hectares in Castelnuovo dell’Abate dedicated to the vineyard Paretaio, planted to a sangiovese clone selected by Pierluigi Talenti. Fruit gets no more developed and carried along to this level of ripeness and while Talenti’s Piero is showing evolution so early in its tenure the purity, honesty and admonition here must be noted. Not just a remark but an opening for props, kudos and general lauding. No pretence and absolute Talenti heart worn on a Vigna sleeve to say this is the vintage, deal with it, work with it and run with it. No forevers but drinking windows open and ready as soon as anyone feels the necessity for ready. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2021

Godello and La Squadra Montalcinese

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2016

A Riserva of great depth, taut and youthful still with so much time ahead for much living yet to do. A matter of vine age at Vignavecchia Mercatale, the old rootstock and different clones mean that the mineral and elements drawn up will effect the wines differently. We can talk all we want about minerals, salts, elements, aromatics and flavours but the real transmission is tannin and the overall structure of the wine. These tannins are compact, not necessarily tight but they are not as elastic as Casaccia and surely the classica Brunello are loose by comparison. 4,200 bottles made. Last tasted November 2023

Some 2016s come out at and with great force, or speak so vividly. Riserva by Cannalicchio di Sopra is not so much quiet as it is confident, linear, upright and perfectly sturdy. A wine of great force but only willing to use that power incrementally, one essential step at a time. This is 2016 in a perfectly captured and preserved photograph, a mix of eastern and northern vineyards that gather with near perfect equanimity. Nothing left behind, all there and yet not quite ready, a preserve of Montalcino 2016 that will always persevere. Bank and bet on such a wine to pour with strength and elegance for decades. Tasted November 2021

Barrel Sample. A deeper well filled with that cherry liqueur and clearly more extract and concentration. The tannins are still fierce, intensely chalky and fine bitters are very much a part of the mix. A furthered texture Brunello with no less strength than most 16s will surely exhibit but the power is tempered by this feel and polish. Quite a potential here for 20 plus years of longevity. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted February 2020

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016

A wine with a mind of its own and still in what Francesco Ripaccioli calls “a preserving state” because its anything but an extrovert. Give it enough agitation so that both character and charm are encouraged to emerge from out of this hard-nosed wine’s shell. Just the faintest note of scraped orange zest signals to a place (showing some affinity with Val di Suga’s Vigna del Lago) and yet this is made in a conservative slash reductive way, and so the wine is still so fresh and youthful. A wine with so much integrity and air is the thing to coax out what the wine is willing or rather will eventually be wanting to express. Nice piques and smacks of spice on the finish. Last tasted November 2023

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Casaccia 2016

La Cassacia on the east slope steppe below Montalcino village is brown clay wth a high percentage of calcium carbonate. Gives the earth and the wine its particular hue with high pH (between 8.2 and 8.3) that reinforces the colour contrast in the sangiovese. “For me it’s sleekness,” tells Francesco Ripaccioli. “Less heaviness than what comes from dense clay.” Still today one of the finest Cassacia’s made at Canalicchio di Sopra and one expressive of all its strengths right now. A completeness that is an extension of the original grounding that have made this La Casaccia one of the better vintages in the last couple of decades. Last tasted November 2023

Barrel Sample: Now this is something exceptional. This is what Casaccia is obviously capable of producing, The sweetest Canalicchio fruit of all, to date and with a rising low and slow angling of acidity (as opposed to straight verticality) that carries the fruit to great heights. This will be a triumph and in fact it is already tasting like a piece de Canalicchio resistance while it sings a long maestro song. A soloist that needs no accompaniment although food, company and peace would not hurt at all. Obviously this is more than just the northern side of Montalcino and more than Canalicchio. This is Casaccia. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted February 2020

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggiarelli 2016

Poggiarelli is a magnificent tract to behold, of very wide rows so typical of Montalcino when it was planted in 1990. The clay is only 10 percent and the stone indomitably Pietraforte, a dry soil ain a dry xone of Montalcino. A windy place overlooking the Orcia Valley and a place where disease pressure, including Perenospera ia not an issue. This look black at 2016 Poggiarelli really sees a separation or more importantly a very different expression to La Mannella because less energy and more grounding puts this vineyard in great vintage light. Poggiarelli ’16 is vintage and also Cortonesi, with more brightness and spirit than so many and again, not quite but akin to what you find in La Mannella. Last tasted November 2023

It seems that Poggiarelli will always be subjected to comparison because of the contrasting style to Cortonesi’s homefront La Mannella. Here the single-vineyard sangiovese rewrites itself in every vintage from the auspices of a warmer, southeasterly Montalcino location at 420m of elevation. Galestro sandy-grey is the ante-soil structure building block whereas La Mannella’s clay gifts earlier charm and elegance. Furthered élevage is a necessity, to instigate depth and structure but not to encourage too much power. Lastly Poggiarelli is almost always picked a minimum seven days after La Mannella. In 2016 this all adds up to one important, profound and vintage defining word. Fluidity. That’s the ideal to emulate, replicate, relipucate and remunerate. Tommaso’s ’16 Vigna is a fluid mosaic of sangiovese, as if its components were composed of phospholipids, cholesterol, proteins and carbohydrates. Even if they are seen simply as fruit, acid, texture and tannin they all move seamlessly as one, within one membrane, a perfect biological model, effortlessly layered elastic and fluid. Poetic structure. La liquidità di Montalcino. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted November 2021

Tomasso Cortonesi, Lorenzo Magnelli, Francesco Ripsccioli and Michaela Morris in Poggiarelli Vineyard

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Mannella 2016

At La Mannella as you head east up the Montalcino hill the steep steppe of the northeastern slope is embedded with river stones. This makes for more energy in residual effect than the other ‘16s tasted side by each and while those wines may live longer it is this La Mannella that is drinking beautifully right now. Tomasso Cortonesi is a bit critical of it but he’s always like this and as with any passionate winemaker the expectation is higher than that of anyone else. This is a great time and place for La Mannella 2016, spirited, rich and juicy, a real Montalcino succulence and length. Says Tomasso, “our goal is to exult the character of each single vineyard. We are not a modern winery.” Last tasted November 2023

La Mannella is Cortonesi’s home estate property on the flat just northeast and below the village of Montalcino where a warm and ideal vintage like 2016 could not help but raise near perfect fruit. Almost certainly an 8.5 out of ten ripeness that comes equipped with some of Montalcino’s finest tannins of well, forever. This 2016 Brunello would have been austere and crusty up until let’s say 12-15 months ago and is just now beginning to express its sangiovese in opening bloom. The triangle is traced with ease today, from fruit through acidity and tannin, now cycling through whereas before the movements would have been up and down, linear and retraceable. There is only forward if circular motion now and in the winter of 2023 this will be absolutely singing, continuing for four to six more after that. Drink 2023-2023. Tasted December 2022

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2016

Like so many Cortonesi sangiovese there is great energy and spirit with this 2016 Riserva and today is one of those moments where you feel this way. Ebullient aromas, including chocolate mint and dark fruits of a liquid peppery kind. Still young and the tannins continue their aggressive drive so more years are needed to see this get to where it needs to go. There were 3,891 bottles made says Tomasso Cortonesi. Last tasted November 2023

Having an understanding that Tommaso Cortonesi knows how to make his wines and though Riserva is only made in what are deemed “suitable” vintages then 2016 is not an unexpected happenstance. Just so happens to emerge from that stellar growing season and if memory serves correct comes replete with a La Mannella upbringing poised and paused into the very fabric of this wine. A sangiovese of veritable home-front DNA, a torch passing from father and son with oenological consultancy aid and abetting by Paolo Caciorgna. Cortonesi’s Riserva is a linear one, firm of backbone built by later picked fruit and kept acidity. Neither dust nor agitated affectation presides as tannin over juice and in fact this is a very expressive Riserva. One of depth but also one that rises with constant upward movement. Onwards as well with 2016 a high point in the pantheon of the last 15 vintages. Tombola! Drink 2024-2032. Tasted November 2021

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016

Le Chiuse nothern location is of a similar micro-climate to the Montosoli hill but with very different soils. Less schist, more sandstone and the percentage decreases as you fall further and northerly away from the Montalcino hill. The first Biondi-Santi vineyard was planter here in 1946 – previous to that was wheat and olives. Ferella (a Biondi-Santi) was Lorenzo Magnelli’s grandmother and her daughter took over the winemaking. The BBS11 clone was grafted by Franco (B-S) onto the Le Chiuse vineyards., Lorenzo is looking at dreatring micro-oxygenation into the soil, to create space for vine roots, but also through cover crops. Results in less passages with the tractor. His 2016 emits the uncanny scent of fennel but more so true liquorice with mint in the background for what is truly aromatic Le Chiuse and in a most special if newly discovered way. There feels to be great wisdom and experience in this vintage of Lorenzo Magnelli’s Brunello, right, correct and important for the vintage. It’s really informative to taste this vintage alongside the current 2019s because you see just how grounded and stoically profound these wines are now, but truth is must have always been. Drink 2023-2036. Tasted November 2023

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2015

Twice the perfume and all the concentration from Riserva, not a surprise nor should it be unusual to think such a thought because is this not the intention and perchance the goal for this level of Montalcinese appellative wine at Le Potazzine? Feel the glycerin on the palate to mix with über fresh red fruits in swaths, swirls and layers. Yet the aging is not finished, not yet and some unresolved aspects of the how and what that put this wine together need to evolve, mature and settle. Could be a few years before this all comes about but that’s part of the exercise and expectation. There are some wild and exciting flavours in Riserva to the extent that time is the action out of which beauty will become the just result. Drink 2025-2037. Tasted November 2023

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Teatro 2016

Though this is a Salicutti that would have been influenced by the two decades of work put in by Francesco Leanza it does define a shift in direction under the ownership of Sabine and Felix Eichbauer. In the past it was Piaggione that was destined for Riserva but today and looking back to 2015 it has become Teatro. This 2016 speaks in the current appellative language and being privy to tasting campioni from 2021 and 2022 barrels connects the dots and submits to the transfer of power. This sangiovese is in a condition of swarthy beauty, a bridge to the past and a harbinger for the future. Great acidity, tart edges, lift and danger but fruit long, strong and tall. The future shines in this Riserva’s crystal ball and thoughts of 2019 can’t help but be forecasted. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2023

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio Al Vento 2016

Col d’Orcia would not be the sort of producer to hold back all of its great fruit solely for Poggio al Vento Riserva and so with memories of the Annata and Nastagio labels (one tasted a year ago and the other 10 minutes prior) it comes to knowing equality was and still is the main focus. That will mean PaV will almost surely be a Riserva of subtlety and restraint. It is just that, with an extra two or three levels of richness by way of fruit concentration but even more so the elements of tradition, family heritage and what is yet unknown, a.k.a. the elements of surprise. Poggio al Vento 2016 will not seek immediate gratification but it will promise longevity. Anyone who has spent time tasting these wines over the years will have no doubt about the sentiment. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2023

San Guglielmo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2016

The 2016 sangiovese is a product of nervous energy and excitement. A matter of a resurrected estate bottling Brunello 53 years after a grandfather once made wine from this place. “You don’t know if this would have been a dream,” tells granddaughter Ilaria Martini. The fact is he can’t be here to participate and he would be very proud. Some maturity already from ’16 and tasting subsequent vintages shows just how much will have already been learned and so quickly. A sangiovese from 2016 that came out to market in 2021 to very little fanfare or even anyone knowing it was there – and yet its makers have persevered through the trepidation, fear and anxiety, to make finessed wines, in a better place and from a top terroir. These are sharp and exciting acids, precursors that will work with fruit translating soil. Fruit is persistent but getting leathery and the overall feeling is just a bit too much lift. Keep dreaming. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Madonna Del Piano 2016

Riserva comes from the vineyard behind the winery on the north slope of the Montalcino hill and yields are in the range of a maximum 3.0-3.5 tonnes per hectare. Madonna Del Piano is THE Brunello that speaks about a producer (Vincenzo Abbruzzese) that believes in the term genius loci, a Roman concept that predates the idea of terroir. He refers to the “richness and non-contamination of the place.” Well, if La Madonna ’16 is not in a most incredible situation at this moment in November of 2023. Juiciest of fresh red fruit but also acidity that imagines blood orange, which is quite classic for certain areas of Montalcino from that season. This northerly steppe looking west to the Montosoli hill is one of the territory’s most historic and specific, creating some of Brunello’s freshest and sturdiest sangiovese. Linearity and verticality are a given in any vintage but this 2016 hyperbolizes the dimensionality, confirms the highest level of restraint and straps the wine in for long aging. Still rising yet years away from reaching its peak and simply very, very good Riserva. Like the queen of pop, “I’m tough, I’m ambitious, and I know exactly what I want.” Drink 2025-2036. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Granchio 2016

Nicely mature and straddling the line between fresh and developed, reductive and oxidative. From what Andrea Lonardi calls “the Saint-Éstèphe side of Montalcino.” A place where iron in the soils leads to a gamey meatiness in the sangiovese and the winemaking is of a Bordeaux approach. Soft extraction, long maceration and no intention to try and extract tannins. Showing some maturity and while the acids are quite fine the caramelization and earthy woodiness are very much ahead of the fruit which now lags behind. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Lago 2016

“Our conversation was short and sweet, it nearly swept me off-a my feet. And I’m back in the rain, oh, oh, and you are on dry land.” Hard to believe 2009, 2010 and 2016 are from the same vineyard because while the change in weather is said to be extreme the emotions of the two earlier vintages are so connected. Blood on the tracks it feels, this visage a new one, fresh as the morning, cool, sweet glycerin red fruit and a sapidity of phenolic bite meeting toothsome flavour and texture. Not salty but spicy and long. Very good showing if perhaps an outlier for the location. Vigna Del Lago, “you made it there somehow. You’re a big girl now.” Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Spuntali 2016

As for Spuntali the comparison would be pinot noir and here on the western side of Montalcino in sandy soils the structure is less and so the technique attempts to pull out some tannins. The comparative concept is not so farfetched because this is an elegant expression so from 2016 the Rhône is not really what we are looking at here. Not the most structured Brunello but surely the kind of grace, char, precision and elegance that is something we all want to see. So much appreciation for 2016 and the first vintage for the new ownership group from which they really felt they were affecting the wines in the way they wanted. Last tasted November 2023

A combination of variegated fruit, red, also some orange and then this deep rooted earthiness. Hematic and a brush with forest floor success. Up level acids foil the earthbound nature and emotions run high in a Vigna Brunello of great parochial curiosity with much moving, stirring and complex behaviour. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted October 2021

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Ten years old and perfectly fresh, indelibly stamped with the Pietroso perfume and as high level succulence for fruit and acids in Brunello can seemingly conspire to procure. There just seems to be no way this is a ten year-old sangiovese. It’s a what the fridge moment and while many need years to resolve their wood before opening perfumes and others are just bullies to age forever – well this tasted blind would be guessed as 2019, or younger. A testament to this cuvée of three Montalcino vineyards brought together from a vintage that shines when in the hands of a producer in total respect to climate and soil. Blown away by this showing. Even Andrea Pignattai smiles at a taste of this one. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted November 2023

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013

As with so many Brunello 13s the freshness has been quantitatively preserved. This would have been picked late at the highest available ripeness, something that previous proprietor Francesco Leanza always wanted. It was his last wine, released in 2019 (under the ownership of Sabine and Felix Eichbauer) and now it is showing top echelon citrus, site specific (Piaggione) acidity and a soft caramel slide. It too will likely come out more expressive with time in the glass. Truth spoken and a look back now is of a vintage that knew moving 10 years forward it would be a blessing. Swan song of a fine and memorable ilk. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

With Katia Nussbaum, San Polino

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Helichrysum 2013

Ten years forward and truth be told this ’13 has held up extremely well, if indeed as well as any Brunello from the variable vintage. A sangiovese of impressive concentration from which you feel the fluid consistency of macerated, visceral and varietal fruit with knowledge of the gentle way you know it must have been pressed. The last vestiges of primary stage are giving way to secondary elements, especially in the aromas and yet the palate is full. Silky best describes that feeling and Helichrysum is no doubt an important Montalcino Vigna institution. Still there is some persistence of drying tannin so look for the right food match, braised rabbit being a wise choice, to keep the wine lively and encouraging of sip after sip. In the end this ’13 goes down smooth and easy, clearly indicative of what the vines and maker both wanted to gift. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

PierFillipo Abbruzzese of Valdicava

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2013

A well discussed vintage that was at times polarizing, especially within the sphere of critics during and immediately following the anteprima. There were admittedly some odd wines made in 2013, some that were disoriented or off course and then others that knew the way. As here with Valdicava’s vintage classica easily vindicated today. Secondary notes have begun, of frutta di bosco, chestnut, acacia and macadamia all toasted, a swirl of pomegranate molasses and dried fruit. The cast of characters are pretty and combine for complex wiles by design, but most importantly they celebrate the Valdicava fields. Having collectively come together this is today an elegant, elastic and refined Brunello. Not a wine to hold for ten years further but the next three or four will be grand. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Madonna Del Piano 2013

Tasted side by each with the classica ’13 presents a whole other matter, of richness multiplied but also secondary notes more pronounced. The stylistic and result are very different, the depth in tapestry woven, of fruit and wood treated by pressing and wood in ways no longer attempted today. This sangiovese has fully settled and moved into its next phase in ways that will please Montalcino purists because this is the epitome of full bodied Brunello. Fleshy, substantial, textured and offering the feeling of an older wine. Will impress because there is nothing light nor moderate alcohol about it, tannins have softened, the barrel creaminess in full effect and the vintage is less noticeable as a final result. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2011

As with the 2004 and 2008 tasted together the initial reaction is maturity but wait, watch, smell and see. Little to no flavour bursts in the first few minutes because the wine has to wake up – remains to be seen if it will. The vintage was a hot one and the Piaggione sangiovese would have been one of musculature and power but in 2023 it’s in a disjointed state. Begins to refresh itself tough dried fruit dominates, with notes of carob while acids are fine, mint-toned and persistently in support. That said they are not the catalyst for energy. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 2010

A wine straight from the heart of Franco Biondi-Santi, opened last night (say 15 hours earlier) and a very important vintage. Created from a specific clone, the BBS11 which is a sangiovese grosso selected at Tenuta Greppo in the 1970s. A library wine from the storica cellar and just about as perfumed as it gets, not just for the estate but especially for the time. In a line-up of 50 Brunello di Montalcino this would stand out because of its originality and respect, but then again that would not be fair. There is pleasantry on the nose and yet the palate shows some austerity and cracking tannin, not because the wine is fading but because a gentle Bretty swarthiness is in the mix. A lovely look back, not the epiphany of some older estate wines but something special for sure. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Madonna Del Piano 2010

The 2010 Madonna del Piano is in finer condition (today) as compared to 2013, in part because of how Riserva is treated, especially in the cellar. Vintage always matters but less so for this style of wine, heavily barrel influenced, compact and concentrated. This is specific to the appellative discipline because conversely it is the ’13 Annata that is singing. This ’10 falls into line with 2001, 2004 and 2006 (reiterated confidently by Vincenzo Abbruzzese) in terms of great if also the notion of “complete” vintages, which 2016 and 2019 will also populate that list. Warm seasons that were able to deliver balance. Polite and nurturing vintages that make the wares of length and complexity ideal and this Valdicava is a mix of purity and persuasiveness showing at peak 13 years forward. There is ease and also vibrancy. Succulenza, finezza and scorrevole – the holy trinity of sangiovese incarnate. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2023

Andrea Lonardi MW presentation at Val di Suga

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Granchio 2010

It is well known that 2009, 2010 and 2016 were the vintages with the best average rainfall and the least number of 30 degree days, which will happen again in 2023. Poggio al Granchio is in a V-shaped valley where slates predominate in layers with clay and sand. Though a warm area it is this soils that cool and create potential for sangiovese. Andrea Lonardi refers to this as the Barolo of Montalcino areas where poor soils do well with sangiovese. Cordone Speronato system predominates for pruning at Poggio Al Granchio. The 2010 Granchio is much fresher than the 2009 and so it would seem the poorer soils did well with the conditions of a warmer and wetter vintage. From 2010 the structure is impressive and the finish really long. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Lago 2010

Andrea Lonardi sees Montalcino and is serious when he asks, how many places in the world have such a change in landscapes around such a small area? Val di Suga considers three of them and Vigna del Lago is very clay which means vines struggle in the extreme vintages, whether too hot and dry or wet and cold. The regular vintages are best for the clay and locally it is the Guyot system that predominates for pruning. Not a grand difference between 2009 and 2010 because the orange citrus is consistent but in 2010 there is also a caramelization, a shot of Amaro more like Spuntali and also a moment of saffron. The guess would be warmer than 2009 but also wetter – this feels like a touch of botrytis went into the fermentation. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Spuntali 2010

Vigna Spuntali in the west is closest to the seas and you have the longest hours of light. A breezy place and mostly not stressed by challenging conditions. Sandy soils, well draining and good for oxygen, even more important for than water for sangiovese. Volume without density and not a place that creates structure. The Châteauneuf du Pape of Montalcino, powdery character included. Gobelet system predominates for pruning. “Sangiovese loves rainfall and does not love really hot seasons” tells Andrea Lonardi MW. He also reminds that Galestro is not a type of soil – it’s a type of structure. “Thanks God Montalcino does not have salinity and minerality. But it does have succulence.” Earth and cheese rind, high acidity and three toned citrus – can really see the connection with the southern Rhône in a wine 10-15 years of age. There is that mint on the finish again! Tasted November 2023

Vertical tasting at Val di Suga

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Granchio 2009

When he first arrived in Montalcino on September 17th, 2012, Tenimenti Angelini COO Andrea Lonardi MW made some observations. Lonardi noted how Granchio on the eastern side was a site that gave sangiovese citrus, unripe, angry tannins and lots of potential. Granchio is the warmest of the three climes, what Andrea Lonardi describes as “a Chianti Classico area for Montalcino,” of warm days, cool nights and lesser winds for this part of Toscana. The soils are Galestro structured from clays and the maturity here is well past prime. Quite earthy with porcini and olive tapenade, no real fruit to speak of, persistent acidity and long ago left the building tannins. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Lago 2009

Vigna del Lago is the coolest of the three Val di Suga vineyards to the north of Montalcino and there is really no big surprise that 2009 has not only lasted but sings at this 14 year mark from just after the current 2023 harvest. The orange citrus and lavender honey scents are not only a meaning of place but also a matter of style. Val di Suga wines are of a historical character and looking back at this vintage of ample rain and no heat spikes shows off that flavour. The wine is in great condition and is a joy to drink. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Spuntali 2009

Andrea Lonardi introduces “crunchy Vigna Spuntali” off of the southwest slope where olive trees, the Mediterranean Ginestra, Sandstone and Pietraforte mark the terroir. In 2012 he found the grapes were spicy, tasting of orange candy, with soft tannins. The 2009 is neither fresh like Vigna del Lago nor mushroom-earthy like Poggio al Grancho and also not in between – but adjacent to both, if more so relatable to Granchio. This is because the earth, mycelium and tartufo shavings are in control with fruit having already faded. Not as muddy as PaG because there is a citrus element involved. Evolved in a real oxidative chatter now with amaro and then all mint at the finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2008

Why did Francesco Leanza choose Piaggione for his Riserva? “He was in love with the vineyard,” explains Felix Eichbauer. “It was the character of Salicutti.” Eichbauer feels (at least today) that it produces sangiovese closer to the care of an American palate. Back in 2008 is is spiced by orange and lemon zests, was late harvested, higher in pH (than today) and the ’08 was the 14th vintage. Now soft and creamy chocolate in delivery of a slice of Tiramisu. Quite evolved to little surprise. But…give 2008 some time in the glass, odd perhaps to say but it matters. The aromas begin to burst, allowing for a release of toasted, roasted vegetal notes, like eggplant and peppers, skins charred, blistered and peeling, flesh caramelized beneath. Full change of perception, pace and mind. The ’04 woos straight away while the ’08 shows greater complexity given some time. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Podere Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2004

For Francesco Leanza Riserva was always 100 percent Piaggione Vineyard fruit. When he made the decision to make a Riserva it was usually in a vintage when no one else did and he would put one barrel aside. For one thing these 19 year-old acids are still in full active swing and fruit is nearly faded but that’s not an issue because the wine sings with the near falsetto whisper of a Pino Daniele ballad. Mint, chocolate and reduced orange liqueur. Amazing. Tasted November 2023

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Tenuta Il Greppo 1988

It is very important to be reminded that Biondi-Santi is the original but also the estate that practiced early harvesting before just about anyone else. At the time the sangiovese grosso vines from the estate BBS11 clone (mainly intended for Riserva) would have been 25 years of age and while considered then and also now as a great vintage it is worth noting that in 1988 the final alcohol was 11 percent. When the estate style is reflected upon there is just something about the continuity which begins with the 1980s and especially the 1985 forward to the later part of that decade, all the way through to 2018 more than thirty years later. Yes there is in fact a connection despite the gap, the huge change in climate and the challenge to maintain identity. The last point is key because the contiguous teams focus on this ahead of all else. The ’88 now shows dried red fruits but also the wild strawberry and then frutta di bosco that are the hallmarks of an older Brunello that has not fallen over into the porcini and truffle zone. Not Biondi-Santi because wood was never the axis nor the focus and fruit was always carefully selected before being gently coaxed to arrive at this kind of secondary level. No matter the age the style persists as fresh red fruit, with fine acids more than alive and a specific succulence specific to place. Il Greppo the estate – which means the people abided by their charge to preserve this heritage. The original endowment of Montalcino. Respect. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

At Giodo with Carlo Ferrini, Michaela Morris, Federica Schir and Bianco Ferrini

Rosso di Montalcino DOC (36)

Altesino Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2022

Warm vintage for sangiovese in Montalcino and as always Rosso acts as the harbinger for the Brunello that will follow when the Anteprima wines are presented in November of 2026. Consumers will find darker, concentrated and luxe fruit, some but not formidable structure and generosity matched by equal and supportive sweetness in acidity. You can drink this straight away. The overall style really works for Altesino in 2022 Rosso – eventually it is the Brunello that will dutifully follow suit. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted January 2023

Caprili Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Somewhat deeper and therefore next level for Caprili while one will never forget the great 2020s and how their ferments were so sluggish before completing into high, high quality Rosso di Montalcino. This was surely quicker to the finish line and therefore also to the point but there is some structure involved. The third in a string of really well established and relayed Rosso vintages bodes well for the Brunellos to come. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

This Rosso may finds its way onto by the glass restaurant lists in 50 countries but know this. The scent is purely Col d’Orcia, the potential for aging guaranteed and the secret lays in the trees, bushes, riverside brush and overall Orcia Valley location. Red fruit incarnate and a Rosso that speaks as clearly as it does confidently. Will look forward to tasting it on the 2’s in 2026 along with other Rosso, Brunello and Poggio al Vento ’22, ’12, ’02, ’92, ’82 and ’72. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Elia Palazzesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Very warm vintage for Rosso and so alcohols risen can mean heaviness but most producers will have surely found a way to exact balance in their wines. As here with Palazzesi’s ’22, rich and so full of fruit but neither heavy nor cloying and the result is something quite satisfying. Ready to roll with negligible tannin and acids as sweet as the fruit that precedes them. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Fabian Schwarz, La Magia

Fattoria La Magia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

The oldest part of La Magia’s vineyard was replanted in 2018 to Alberello – “Becasue uou are working with three dimensions in every plant,” says Fabian Schwarz. “Every one is by itself, incurring its reactions to wind and rain, but not animals.” Just released after bottling early September. Very primary still, a work in progress, not so much reductive but on hold. In part because it was fixed to settle in newly acquired concrete tanks for a month or so, but it’s not predictive or explaining about what will become its eventual character. Really primary and at least six months should be needed to see this Rosso move into a fully finished state. Very fruity and fresh, ante-fresh actually with good purity and clarity. The weight is at the finish, another reason to give this wine some time. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Le Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022, (Campione)

Talk about timing – this Rosso 2022 will be bottled tomorrow! It may be a Campione but this is as close to a finished wine without looking backwards or forwards as there can be. Nose and taste the sangiovese of Le Potazzine and you will know that their perfume is omnipresent, all-pervasive, a factor of place and necessity of style. Stylish sangiovese with a shadowy hint of Balsamico. A Rosso of fineness and finesse, grace and controlled chaos. This from the most sluggish and slow ferment on record – 57 days! How can a winemaker and a family sleep through such a time? How can their hearts survive? Well they do and the end result is beauty incarnate. Acidity and moderate structure, first one and then the other, layered and intertwined. Spot on for Le Potazzine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Pietroso Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

A Rosso from one of the hotter vintages on record and from vineyards that heat up when this happens despite being at elevation just outside of and at an almost similar height to the Montalcino hill. Clocks in at 15 percent while in studious balance but what stands out is the silky texture with high level glycerol involved. Some of the highest levels of naturally sweet fruit and acidity rolling together as one in what is just so very drinkable if at the same time weighty Rosso di Montalcino. Big wine, some structure that shows its power and yet not a wine to lose in the cellar. 17,000 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022, (Campione, will be bottled in December)

Barrel sample: “In the past we used to make little Brunellos,” admits winemaker Alessio Sostegni, “but that has changed.” Now simply about freshness and a sangiovese to drink. Well if gently extracted, like an infusion with punching down only done in the earliest stage of the fermentation process. Really just to keep the cap wet. Surely in part because of the very warm vintage just 10 days maximum for Rosso. There is some wood but mostly stainless steel aging, but it is the barrel that brings the overall softness. As crisp and easy as it has ever been for Poggio Antico and yes, this is what you want to drink. Silky, smooth and pretty seductive for Rosso. Harvested by the middle of September, approximately a week ahead of 2021. Will be labeled at 14.5 percent alcohol. Approximately 20,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

San Felice Rosso di Montalcino DOC Campogiovanni 2022

Youthful Rosso from San Felice which is key because the hot vintage was doubly so at a località ike Campogiovanni. The juicy nature of sangiovese from young vines is captured with acidity in tact for a Rosso that is fine-tuned and full of tact. Also tactile because texture is like that of emulsifications and the wine finishes with a small attack of swarthy bites. Suggest to drink this easy because that will increase as the fruit fades off. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted November 2023

San Polino Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Feel the glycerin straight away from San Polino’s Rosso ’22 which is what happens to sangiovese from this località when the weather is warm and the vines work to concentrate fruit. Not hot like 2021 mind you but more than ample textural stuffing fills this glass. Solid, a bit grippy and chalky with late bite. Good complexity here. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Talenti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Rosso comes from the part of the azienda where the youngest vines are maturing yet deliver a remarkably rich and concentrated level of sangiovese. A Rosso of expressiveness for the vintage and also one of length. It’s about fruit for Talenti and the specialty of a season, in this instance quite warm but there is succulenza and some of Montalcino’s finest Rosso charm. Vertical as needed, persistent as desired. That’s the crux of this Rosso situation and this 2022 expertly communicates what needs and wants. Expressive while full of freshness because the acidity is so well caught and in turn preserved. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta Buon Tempo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Über fresh as if the wine is still working through its machinations and a carbonic maceration process is in the works. There is a gummy bear quality to the aromas to tell us the fruit has yet to fully integrate with the rest of this sangiovese’s parts. Wait six months and all will be right because there is some structure, purity and finally sweetness, as opposed to drying austerity in the tannins. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Val di Suga Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Fine Rosso here from the warmth of 2022 but Val di Suga has the great fortune to draw fruit from three areas, micro-climates and geological terroirs of Montalcino. The layering seems so right because here the heat is cooled by grapes that infiltrate and integrate with those that matured through more humid and arid days. Makes for a well-rounded Rosso that may feel thicker in texture than some but one than maintains ample freshness for its success. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Ucceliera Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

Though so bloody young and not yet close to be ready for drinking this Rosso by Ucceliera is already telling us everything we pretty much need to know. A wise and knowing example of fruit freshness, purity and that most sought after sangiovese aspect of Montalcino; succulenza. This is so real and properly made it should be on every Rosso list that anyone who wants to understand Montalcino will compile. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Valdicava Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2022

Rosso is made from the grapes that don’t qualify for Brunello and incidentally no top wines were made in both 2014 and also 2018. The first was a question of quality and the second a matter of allowing the vines to rebound and regenerate following the drought and heat of 2017. Vincenzo Abbruzzese says he “likes to think we have a very high bottom level,” a statement that could allude to both Brunello and this Rosso. The ’22 is just about to be bottled, within the coming weeks which makes it more of a finished wine than a campione. Another warm vintage for a juicy cherry red sangiovese, liquid chalky, northerly representative for the clay and Galestro landscape. Harmonious throughout, from entry through mid-palate to finish. A fine restraint and one with stuffing to travel long in the cellar. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Voliero Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

A similar Rosso to Ucceliera but more on the side of simple, correct and easy. Take a stab at a glass on repeat over a year or so before looking at the readiness of sister property Ucceliera’s Rosso 2022. This is quite settled and good to go. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Easy, facile and grooving Rosso from Argiano, made from quality grapes conditioned and intended to please above all else. A simple expression of Rosso that speaks in everyday language, no matter the time or place for pop and pour activities. Very correct. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Castello Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino DOC Colto 2021

From go the complexities out of Romitorio’s Rosso abound and bounce around the olfactory like kernels in the kettle or balls in a lottery machine. The activity is repeated on the palate from ripe and energetic sangiovese so unsettled it falls under the adjunct of needing time. The requiem calls for nurturing and guidance to find the way to tranquility. These seem like fresh acids and also the kind that may never relent but that’s perfectly fine! With food this will already sing a song of elevation. Sleepless in love, “the morning air was crisp as a brand new bank note. He swaggered like a surfer.” Joe Ely Rosso love and danger. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Purely and classically Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino illumination with their ostensible sensibilities instilled into making the most dual-functional type. This means getable and put-away-able or as it is said by someone of German-Italian descent “two catches in a row,” though that is never something actually uttered in English. Nevertheless Collemattoni’s 2021 Rosso is such an ideal sangiovese we want in our glass today and will be pleased to have the same looking two, three, four and five years down the road. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Perfectly Rosso, bright and fresh with just that extra bit of substance and texture to put this in mind of drinkability but also a class of super sustenance. Crisp, crunchy, beautiful, delightful and strong. What more could you wish for from Rosso di Montalcino? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Fattoria dei Barbi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Barbi’s Rosso is spot on 2021 juicy, fresh and high acid to gift what is right and correct. Having tasted samples and also a finished bottle of the Stefano Cinelli Colombini’s Toscana Rosso Senza Sulfiti there is no doubt about the connection between the two wines. Puts each in good light and makes sense of their complimentary positions as kinfolk each so fine to sip. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Franco Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Franco Pacenti’s Rosso ’21 straddles the line, on one side there is freshness and breaths of early morning Montalcino air. On the other the architecture is Etruscan, established and immovable. Take a sip and note the sway towards the side of amenability because after all this is Rosso and FP does what is essential for a wine of this appellation. The balsamic touch at the back end is just spot on and correct to accent the concluding actions of this Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2023

Giuseppe Gorelli Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2021

That rare and favourable combination of rich and drinkable, a Rosso certifiably composed or Rosso sake. Perfectly ripened, fruit and acidity, classic if modern and clean, pure and reputable Rosso style. A mix of spice and sweetness so that all falls into place, especially for the palate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Jacopo and Alessandro Mori of Il Marroneto

Il Marroneto Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2021

Ignaccio is one of two Il Marroneto Rosso, “the classic” tells Alessandro Mori, compliment to son Jacopo’s next gen iteration. From a 0.7 hectare block farmed specifically for Rosso di Montalcino on the northeast side of the hill. The vines are 100 metres below the cru of Madonna delle Grazie at 420m and they deliver fruit that just simply tastes of the earth, naked and strong. There are no other Rosso that unites and coalesces this level of heritage, crazy and genius. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2023

Il Marroneto Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Jacopo 2021

The second Rosso, named for and now created by Alessandro Mori’s son as a next generation cultural take on Montalcino’s most important wine. It’s what the Montalcinese will open daily and Jacopo wants to make the kind you want to drink. “When I started to choose through the barrels to make the selection,” he explains, “my mind went to crunchy wines with beautiful structure and no aggressiveness. I wanted to make a red wine.” This Jacopo, is it. A red wine. Something that dares to reach out to personal taste, to what is right for the palate. The vintage hits the mark because it does exactly what the winemaker wanted. It’s what we want as well and ask that we can continue enjoying it for a while before moving on to the Brunello. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Le Gode Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

For 2021 Rosso is a rich tapestry woven of acidity through fabric for a most textured Rosso. The lift and swarthy funk are up at that line where danger lurks but Le Gode keeps things formal with as much posit tug pull as it can muster. Brett lays high and tries to infiltrate but precocious luck and structural fortune are there to save the day. There are tannins here and they are brittle. That is OK because this is not a technically sound Rosso nor does it have to be. It will be loved by any who desire vim, relish and vividness – more importantly it is a stepping stone on the road to truly great Rossos to come. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted November 2023

Le Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

The fact remains that a Potazzine is a Potazzine and here is not a rare one but clearly a Rosso that stands apart, set to an aromatic standard of hypnotic grace that makes Rosso so special. That said there are levels of richness and especially glycerol in 2021 that may not have been present in the last few vintages. How anyone could not fall in love with these scents, flavours and especially textures would be inconceivable. There is a chalky underlay as well and so structure is a part of this vintage. Wait a year and then drink over the following seven, perhaps even 10. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted November 2023

Roberto Cipresso Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Quite a rich, mature and fruit forward if developed Rosso with lower level acidity and roundness than a good many. Fruit is lovely and the mouthful quite creamy but also soft. Drink up what bottles you have or may soon acquire. Tasted November 2023

San Guglielmo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2021

Sparkling clean, tight and an intensely red citrus Rosso. Just about as tart and acid lightning struck as it gets for Montalcino. Real, deliberate and delectable. Three week maceration and very gentle extraction for sure – no pressing involved. Not a bit. Pure, unadulterated and focused as sangiovese, exacting for Rosso to seduce the modern, discriminate and wishful palate, with no density or heaviness involved. For the kind of consumer in search of simple truths and respect for heritage in the cleanest way. Imagine the possibilities when better vintages provide the source. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino DOC Tenuta “Greppo” 2020

The first wine tasted inside the newly renovated aging room, a sangiovese fermented in concrete vats and aged in classic Slavonian botti. Here the vintage that will be available in 2024. “What we are looking for in a Rosso is to preserve the history of the estate,” says Giampiero Betolini. “It took nine blending sessions to arrive at what the team was happy with, to enact the style of Biondi-Santi.” The 2020 is freshness and acidity first and foremost, from five levels of selection in the vineyard. Just put your nose in the Rosso and you will know it is Biondi-Santi, lighter than 2019, reflective of a vintage, moderately low in alcohol and perfumed. The “stampa” of Tenuta Il Greppo with circulative acids, not swirling but seemingly travelling the palate in mimic of a classic hydro-biodynamic pattern. Pure, clean and piercing. The kind of impression that is warranted, especially with so much new cask involved. Length is greater than 75 percent of denominational Brunello DOCG which explains three things; selection, tireless trials and longevity. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted November 2023

San Guglielmo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2020

A different vintage to both 2019 and 2021 but San Guglielmo’s micro-climate is so unique to weave a constant thread in the wines from vintage to vintage. A warmer place that needs just the gentlest extractions, no pump-overs nor stirring neither, because ripeness need not be magnified and holes need not be filled. You feel the aromatic texture that seamlessly repeats on the palate. Direct, taut, lightning red fruit, finessed with the best of the area’s Rosso. In this style mind you, of clarity, intensity and focus. A sangiovese you desperately want to drink but you have to love acidity, this acidity and style. Why would you not? Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2019

Hard to argue against the idea that in 2019 the Rosso and the Brunello are closer together. Here there is some opulence and definitely more substance than the “average” Rosso so that some grapes could have theoretically gone either way. The difference is structure and so the Rosso vines will not deliver the kind of material for 15 years of aging. Also just slightly less acidity than the Brunello. In this vintage “the bottle makes the function of the barrel,” explains Francesco Ripaccioli. But this could trick many people because on the surface and in these first few years the identity is one of concentration and intensity. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2019

“A sangiovese from Montalcino is going to learn a lot from being in the bottle,” tells Lorenzo Magnelli. “It doesn’t matter if it’s a Brunello or a Rosso.” Never has this been more prescient and true (other than perhaps dfrom 2016) as this 2019, a wine where the chasm to Brunello is lessened but you have to look at the two wines in a completely different way. Magnelli’s approach is not single vineyard but a matter of size and site. The biggest berries matched with the location. If you can find a better Rosso than Le Chiuse’s 2019 there should be trens of thousands of sangiovese lovers that would like to know. Aromatic sound and vision, fruit matched by savoury qualities in perfect synch and so bloody harmonious in every way possible. Power and beauty, grip and elasticity. The biggest of Le Chiuse’s berries make for the juiciest Rosso that delivers an effect that is sweeter than Brunello. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Estate

Podere Le Ripi Rosso di Montalcino DOC Sogni de Follia 2019

Rosso di Montalcino comes from Le Ripi’s vineyards to the west, a good Rosso area where the berries are bigger, the alluvial terroir gifts intendment and the sangiovese acts truly fresh. No hydric stress, plenty of q vs Q and PDQ, I’s dotted and T’s crossed. Total and also specific heat transfer for an acid-tannin relationship supportive by keeping this wine linear and it’s really quite salty. The 24 months aging in cask has equipped a Rosso with quantified structure and combined with the mineral salts puts it in a really gastronomical position. This should be poured with antipasti and primi, especially in the late fall when truffles and mushrooms are available. Sogni di Foglia, words of Francesco Illy, translated as “dreams of madness.” Up to interpretation, perhaps just words that make sense in the context of all the names of Le Ripi’s wines. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

San Guglielmo Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2019

The first Rosso of the new age under the guise of Ilaria and Michele at San Guglielmo. Some age and maturity showing on this ’19, but also more ripeness, phenolic presence and weight for what will follow out of the next two Rosso vintages. Good development, less red lightning fruit, ever so slightly jammy and certainly without the tension of 2020 an 2021. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Cortonesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC La Mannella 2016

Tomasso Cortonesi says “in my opinion from this bottle there is a little bit too much evolution on the nose” but the tasting group of producers and tasters believes to give it some air and more will come. The palate is perfectly vibrant with less maturity, acids in pique shape and fruit showing no fatigue. Tomasso is his own biggest critic and I’ve heard him say this before so he clearly tries to create and is always looking for top freshness. There is plenty here for a seven year-old Rosso and there will be a few years of very positive drinking ahead. Last tasted November 2023

Not simply freshness but unction, fruit culpability and basic perfection. The young vines of five years are just now coming into their speciality, that being quality fruit meeting and melting into more than a modicum of grip and structure. You could pour this Rosso for young Brunello seekers and old Rosso knowers. It will solicit and win over their collective hearts. Tasted October 2019

Lovely effulgent fruit in this Cortonesi family Rosso radiates to extrapolate for a 2016 Brunello future, in many ways. First it is this Rosso that benefits from the particular handling, showing in an immediately gratifying plus available sangiovese that drinks with fast-forward Rosso promise and does so on its own terms, for the right Montalcino reasons. Second, even though the producer’s approach to Brunello is another matter in which generally speaking it deals only with older vines, it is this youthful exuberance and wealth of amenability meeting attack that bodes well for the impending grandi vini. It is here that we see the present and the future of Rosso di Montalcino and the respect it is both given and deserved. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted February 2018

Toscana IGT

Fattoria Dei Barbi Senza Solfiti 2021, Toscana IGT

Stefano Cinelli Colombini’s idea has been to produce sangiovese without sulphites, not to make a natural or trendy wine but something that speaks to both heritage and the realities of today. A sangiovese made the way it once was, naked and alive but with the advantage of 2020 technology. This project had been in the works for several years and we tasted through young unfinished samples together back in October of 2021. This wine’s genesis and though ’21 is no longer the current release it makes the most sense to taste as a ready to drink wine. From concepts developed with the University of Pisa, clean as it could possibly be, a hint of carbonic pulse, extreme freshness, lightning red fruit, cracker acidity and an ideal match as an aperitivo with Barbi’s sharp cheeses coming out of the Caseificio dei Barbi. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Giodo La Quinta 2021, Toscana IGT

Sangiovese from Montalcino vines, “un piccolo Brunello,” smiles Carlo Ferrini if instantly insistent in terms of this not being a Rosso. Exotic in its aromatic profile, of young vines that can’t help but express a cupboard of spices but also a dusty, brushy and southern Montacino mountain tea. Translates as herbal and floral but the grace and lightness of being feed imagination like Villages or Hautes-Côtes Bourgogne. May as well be a young Brunello or whatever your fantasy may be dreamed because that just is this sangiovese. If it smells like Brunello and tastes like Brunello then it must be…well never mind. Plenty of mimicry on offer so dream away at will. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Il Palazzone Rosso di Palazzone Vino Rosso NV, Toscana IGT

The idea of Laura Gray who worked at Il Palazzone for more than two decades and a Rosso for “Rosso sake,” a “table wine” in the tradition of that concept, Montalcinese culture and also vernacular. To give a sangiovese credibility without appellative legality from bits and pieces of all the vineyards, including the IGT vineyard. No vintage on the label though the fruit is mainly 2021, yet there is some de-classified 2018 Brunello fruit. Amazing how primary it scents, juxtaposed by fresh rose petals, both curious considering it went to bottle in September of 2022. Lovely purity if not much complexity and just the right amount of volume, surely as intended. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Andrea and Gianni Pignattai, Pietroso

Pietroso 2020, Toscana IGT

Only Montosoli fruit and made as an IGT though you have to figure will one day, some day become a Vigna Brunello. The vines are young and the size of the vineyard small (as per the hill) with only 1.3 hectares farmed on the typical sandy Galestro as per the way these rocks are defined and described in Montalcino. Such a different expression for Pietroso, not in terms of style but surely aromatics and mouthfeel coming across apposite to the three-vineyard Brunello. More savour, sweet herbals and what can be best described as liquoroso. Amaro, sweet in perfume yet intensely dry on the palate. The name is in ode to the patriarchal grandfather, Berni Domenico, aged in Botti and tonneaux for two years. Quite the riches but my goodness such red fruit and so in the end this could only be Pietroso, no matter the vineyard. Always reminded of Montosoli’s savour and structure and so the longevity of this wine may be without bounds. Won’t be released until June of 2024. Smart choice. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Canna Torta 2021, Toscana IGT

Podere Le Ripi CEO and Winemaker Sebastian Nasello begins by saying “we have traditional Brunello but we also make wines for the next generation of wine drinkers. We have to care of them.” A mix of trebbiano and malvasia, six to eight months in vats on skins, followed by an additional six to eight in concrete. Grapes come from the western side of Montalcino, some of them purchased. A nickname meaning “a bad (or dull) shooter,” given to an employee who’s charge it is to control the deers. And so they dance on the label, as this does on the palate. Indeed this is a clean and rich example with just the right hints of tart fruits, herbs and shadows with hidden bits of umami. 2,000 bottles, more or less. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Cappuccetto 2022, Toscano Rosato IGT

One night (maybe two) of skin contact, not a salasso, a Rosato at heart, salty and a veritable salsa of sangiovese. It’s really, actually, ostensibly, allegedly if truly Montalcinese, of savoury sapidity (in reference to taste) and ultimately a piquancy. This Rosé does not chase any specific or established style but just something you want to drink. It’s fucking delicious is what it is. Lovely touch of green and that’s just right. Also a bitter nectarine, not quite ripe but tart and satisfying. Who would not want to drink this?? Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Sebastian Nasello, Podere Le Ripi

Podere Le Ripi Attenti al Lupo 2022, Toscana IGT

Sebastian Nasello is trying to create some wines that can pe poured and enjoyed at wine bars that show another side of what can be done n Montalcino. Introducing whole cluster sangiovese in its fourth vintage but the first that is fully being brought to market, of approximately 4,000 bottles. Raw and unfiltered, fine and pulsating measure of sauvage, a light and knowable amount of Brettanomyces that crept in at the end of fermentation. Lacks precision as a result but more than makes up for it with unbridled and gangly personality. The following vintage temperature was lowered during the svinato to avoid this occurrence. The texture is attractive yet the tannins are brittle and drying at the finish. Those who seek out the natural and the hands off as much as possible will want this vintage. Yet faults are faults and they happen. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted November 2023

Podere Le Ripi Attenti al Lupo (Campione) 2023, Toscana IGT

Cask sample: Sebastian Nasello is deep into machinations with whole bunch and carbonic macerations, but in the cleanest way possible, Not gratuitously natural wines. This fifth vintage of the whole cluster is no longer experimental sangiovese because this is the one where things are really figured out. The carbonic fermentation, cooling at the time of svinatura and finished without any confining or gripping of tannin puts this in cru gamay Beaujolais territory. The terroir is alluvial from the western sector of Montalcino and now we are gifted a sangiovese of precision, succulent juiciness and long, sweetly natural finish. No Brett and this lovely carbonic buzz on the finish. Nice and clean. Will be bottled around harvest in 2024. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Tenuta Le Potazzine Sangiovese 2021, Toscana IGT

Youngest and freshest of the sangiovese, fragrant and of a perfume as intoxicating as it is demure. It’s just everywhere in this light and understated wine. Roses and bergamot, a hidden message of balsamico, simplicity if something hidden in the shadows to hint at or tease what will be possible for Rosso (especially) out of the warm 2022 vintage. The possibilities are evident, the promise palpable. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Good to go!

godello

Benvenuto Brunello 2023, Montalcino

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Palencia Sparkling Albariño

A steamy August in Washington

Jan12

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

In August of 2023 a small group of intrepid Canadians traipsed through the wilds of Washington’s wine country in search of the new but found so much more. A fine fettle of wine producers and estates fill up the eastern landscape, fully encapsulating the industry with the experienced, quaint, artful, zealous, time-tested, animated and cerebral. The trip was a hunt in persistence, finding it all, revelling in its mottled and striped splendour, sitting back to admire the people and the scenery. Smoke taint was on everyone’s mind but clear skies dominated imagination. The journey was winding, snaking contiguously like the Columbia, Yakima and Walla-Walla Rivers, working an itinerary through the Tri-Cities, Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla, Woodinville and finally to finish in Seattle. The weather ranged from 90 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit (32-46 Celsius for the rest of the metric world), fires burned far off in the distances near Spokane and widespread in British Columbia. The air was thick as pea soup though there was no fog and spirits remained high. Unwavering you might say, always ready for road-tripping, to reach further, for action and of course tasting.

The group convened in Richland, one of three city-siblings conjoined at the aggregate network of urban communities that include Pasco and Kennewick. On day one we took in the Yakima Valley and Red Mountain AVAs with J. Bookwalter Winery, Palencia Winery, Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery, Col Solare and Hedges. Day two down to the Walla Walla Valley AVA with SMAK Wines, Gramercy Cellars, Valdemar Estates, L’Ecole N° 41 and Woodward Canyon Winery. Morning of day three still about town in Walla Walla, at Seven Hills Winery, House of Smith and Vital Wines. Further south to The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater with Rotie Cellars and in the haze of the evening an oasis harvest party at Spring Valley Vineyard. Day four and onwards to the Yakima Valley AVA with Tirriddis, Sonder Wines, JB Neufeld and 14 Hands Winery. Day five more of the Yakima Valley AVA and then on to Woodinville, first with a blending experience and tasting at Chateau Ste Michelle, culminating at Airfield Estates. A long finale of a drive over the Cascade Mountains, a change in scenery and more profoundly weather ,with clear blue skies and sunshine in Seattle.

Lunar landscape in the Walla Walla Valley, akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.”

Grape cultivation in hostile climates

Cultivating wines in much of Washington is not a native exercise. Most of the southern part of the state is desert and nothing comes easy. There are many vistas akin akin to a Wes Anderson set of “parched gulch and arid plains.” This reminder comes by way of Christophe Hedges. “To plant a vineyard we just have to thin out a few sage bushes. Vine-growing is not a natural practice.” Yet Hedges also reminds that practicing biodynamics is not commonplace, but it is natural and so the Vineyard Manager reigns have fallen to 26 year-old Kayla Braich. Christophe insists she is the most knowledgable biodynamic expert in the Columbia Valley. “Hiring an old white guy to do biodynamics would not have worked.” At Hedges, Sarah Hedges Goedhart tells how Portuguese varieties are a focus, especially touriga nacional (but also tinta cáo and sezão) for their heat and drought resistant, terroir-driven qualities. They are late flowering and developing but also deal with the stress of extreme climate events better than the Bordeaux varieties. “Red Mountain is a small-knit community,” says Christophe. “We hope the way we are farming will be the direction of the future.”

Justin Neufeld talking Yakima, Rattlesname Hills and Red Mountain

“We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.” — CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda, 5th Generation at Valdemar Estates

Justin Neufeld finds the cabernet sauvignon from Red Mountain more granular and austere. Vibrant yet one-dimensional as compared to the (relatively) cooler climate sites of the Yakima Valley. There are different wind patterns here and the tannic profile becomes softer, chalkier and ultimately more elegant, with a true red fruit personality. Yakima lends to more “blended” cabernets, in particular as it pertains to structure, also more aromatic complexity and classic varietal style. Herbal, red fruits, herbaceous and vegetal character. More acid driven. Much of Yakima’s style is because of landscape orientation. Here the ridges run east to west where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. There is also the Stuart Range in the Enchantment Basin which hosts a granite soil profile while wrinkles in the central crust resulted in basaltic, south facing slopes. Meanhwile Neufeld is one of a few producers to discuss the fires and potential for smoke taint. He comments that 2023 reminds him of 2007 when there really was no issue on the grapes.

“My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one” – Bill Monson, President, Goose Ridge Vineyards

Heritage Vineyards

Old vines are key to the tenets of quality and success for growing regions worldwide. There are parts of Europe and also grape varieties that suffer from increased disease pressure and low fruit vigour but there are also locations, especially in warmer and more southern climates that host century vines still in positive rotation. South America, Australia and South Africa especially celebrate the heritage and age of old vines that keep on giving. While there are some vines and wineries populating the wet, mild climate of western Washington, it is the greater fields of Washington State’s warm and predominately desert climate playing host to many special blocks, many of them planted in the 1970s and 1980s where the finest expressions of the region’s terroirs are produced. Still dozens of others are coming on strong and on their way to joining the heritage account. Not to be forgotten is the high quantity and profound importance of own (as opposed to grafted upon) rootstock in Washington’s vineyards.

Airfield, Arnaut Boushey, Canoe Ridge Estate, Cold Creek, Dubrul, Moxee, Olsen, Phil Church, Rainmaker, Red Willow, Rosa Hills, Rothrock, Two Blondes and Upland vineyards in the Yakima Valley
Hyatt, Outlook, Portteus, Morrison, Stonemark and Whisky Canyon in the Rattlesnake Hills
Bacchus, Dionysus, Double D, Evergreen, Galitzine, Klein, Lawrence, Lewis Estate, Phinny Hill, Sagemoor, Stoneridge, Sundance, Tapteil and Wallula Gap of the Columbia Valley
Andrews, Champoux, Discovery, Lake Wallula, Mach One, Palengat, Sorella and Zephyr Ridge in Horse Heaven Hills
Clifton Bluff, Desert Wind, Fox Estate, North Ridge, Riverbend, Rosebud, StoneTree and Weinbau in the Wahluke Slope
Beautiful Powerline, En Chamberlin, Ferguson, Forgotten Hills, Heather Hill, Hidden Northridge, Leonetti, Loess, Pepper Bridge, Powerline, Serra Pedace, Seven Hills, Spring Valley, Sur Echalas, Woodward Canyon and Yellow Bird in the Walla Walla Valley
Mill Creek and Upland in the “North Fork” (of the Walla Walla River)
Bel’Villa, Cara Mia, Ciel du Cheval, Grand Ciel, Hedges, Jolet, Kiona, Kingpin, Klipsun, Les Gosses, Magdalena, Quintessence, Shaw, Upchurch, Terra Blanca and Weather Eye on Red Mountain
Ancient Stones, Holy Roller, Lafore, (Freewater, River and Rotie) Rocks, SJR in The Rocks District of (of Milton-Freewater)

These are but a shortlist with many more qualified and soon to qualify vineyards coming into their own. Heritage means more than grapevines, succinctly iterated by Bill Monson, President of Goose Ridge Vineyards. “My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one.” CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda of Valdemar Estates may be newer to the Washington wine scene but he echoes the sentiment. “We’ve made wine in Spain for the past five generations, and we plan to make wine in Walla Walla for five generations to come.”

Canadians and Kate at Spring Valley Vineyard

Syrah and Rhône varieties rising

Washinton State’s reputation has above all else been built on Bordeaux varieties but the present and the future see syrah and other Rhône grape varieties taking up more airspace, vineyard acreage and mind. The reds in syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan and counoise; The whites in marsanne, roussane, viognier, grenache blanc, clairette blanche and picpoul. On this last trip the Rhônes and varietal syrah were poured, discussed at length, waxed rhapsodic upon and just plain celebrated at Airfield Estates, Hedges, Gramercy Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, SMAK, Sonder, Spring Valley Vineyards, Valdemar Estates and Vital Wines. The Rhônes are taking hold and growing exponentially in the Yakima Valley, on Red Mountain, upon the Royal Slope and throughout the Walla Walla Valley, especially at the Oregon border in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Plantings began in the mid-1908s in the Red Willow Vineyard of Yakima Valley.

Team Canada at House of Smith

WAugust in Washington

This WAugust trip to Washington wine country was made possible by the erudite folks at the Washington State Wine Commission, both in that spectacular state and also here in Canada. Just two months earlier a full-on participatory Pacific Northwest Wine event took place in Toronto and some added notes can be found at the end of this lengthy report. Three great humans work tirelessly (amongst many others behind the scenes) on behalf of the state’s more than 1,000 wineries, large and small. Keep in mind that Washington is the second-largest wine producing state in the United States, with over 1,050 wineries making over 17 million cases of wine, contributing more than $8 billion in annual in-state economic impact. That is a profound breadth of ground to cover for the small WSWC team. Chris Stone is Deputy Director and Kate Salisbury is International Marketing Manager. Chaperones Salisbury and Claudie Lamoureux of Washington State Wine for Canada were charged with the on point, on time task for five fulfilling and over-achieving days. Hard to say which of their characters or abilities were tops – driving prowess or durability, kindness, patience or grace. All of the above and it is imagined that Godello’s fellow travellers would wholeheartedly agree; Alana Lapierre, Angela Aiello and Mandi Roberston. In any case there was everything to experience, much along the lines of the varied and diverse wineries, AVAs and personalities encountered. Of conglomerates and boutiques, generational families and new blood, the established and the start-ups, pedagogues and rock stars, boffins and balladeers. There was much wine poured and these are the 135 tasting notes.

J. Bookwalter

Columbia Valley AVA

J. Bookwalter

John Bookwalter was a graduate of UC Davis Vineyard Management program and farmed some of Washington’s most famous tracts, Sagemoor, Bacchus and Dionysus. In 1982 he started J. Bookwalter, making approximately 2,000 cases of white wines. In the 90s he started the reds program and 2023 marked the 40th harvest. Chance Cruzen is winemaker and happens to be a big fan of Iggy Pop.

With the boys of J. Bookwalter

J. Bookwalter 3rd Edition 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Flagship white, Bordeaux idiom, based on sémillon (63 percent) with sauvignon blanc (20) and muscadelle (19). The sém is both anchor and driver, dominating the aromatics and that speaks to how well this has been managed and blended. They keep the faith, act as catalyst for integration of both the varietal trilogy and the wood. John Bookwalter was known to say “choose your wood like you would choose a picture frame.” Equally important is the creation of consequence between flowing grace and bracing tension. Good strong mid-palate, tight and focused, length is outstanding. Proper flagship appellative white blend. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Merlot Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Mainly merlot but not exclusively, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc for good support, measure and spice. The oak is noticed, the tannins powdery yet silky enough to make this über sippable. Still a bit gangly to be honest with some white peppery piques on the aromatics and so another year will surely send this merlot to be in a place it was intended to be. A few grams of residual sugar plump it up and then chocolate, a next effect by barrel aging which only serves to make this a truly silken, creamy and yet acid retentive red wine. Produces up to 1,500 cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Conflict 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Conflict, aged on lees, bottled 18 months after harvest. A great vintage save for some smoke that drifted in from fires all over the west, though really less dramatic here in the Columbia Valley than many other places. Pretty taut red that has not yet released its true aromatic charm, in fact it could be another 18 months before that really begins. The Readers Merlot is a much earlier proposition and the more diverse varietal meets barrel make-up with style intendment to make this a more structured and powerfully restrained merlot-dominant proprietary blend. Good yields though and a juiciness here that says the type of acidity in Conflict is quite different to that of Readers. This shows real potential, luxe as it is and all parts are prepared thoughtfully, with blood sweat and tears, yet neither by pretence nor blind ambition. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Readers 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Rounded out by five percent syrah and petit verdot, with thanks to a most important grower/vineyard, that being Dionysus. A richer, thicker and more unctuous red (as compared to merlot) but fruit concentration is on par. That said the warmer Dionysus site can’t help but deliver this kind of glycerin viscosity and so the blackberry-Cassis dominance will not be denied. Can’t miss the silky syrah and petit verdot depth that put this in the kind of red best defined as full and substantial. Refined and finessed enough, never overarching or reaching, best now and for a few to five years forward. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

J. Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Protagonist 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Change of pace, in a way, from Conflict to Protagonist because for the first time there is an Italian (think Bolgheri) like stylistic coming through. Dusty, chalky and powdery tannins are evident, even in the face of fulsome and concentrated fruit. Juicy to the nth degree, ridiculously delicious and then a chocolate plus espresso crema all over the back end. The cumulative effect by fruit, terroir, climate and barrel aging make this climb to a rich and creamy finale pretty much unavoidable. Some sweetness follows and after some REM sleep there will be a long, melodic and jangling future for this Columbia Valley red. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vic Palencia

Palencia

Victor (Vic) Palencia’s grandfather was a first generation immigrant from Spain (to Mexico) and he is first gen. American, so the symmetry, from Valencia to Palencia, is something to hang a northwest hat on. Vic started in Walla Walla in 2012 after taking a flyer and to realize a dream. As a first generation immigrant it cements the legally forming “sueno” even deeper. Thus the “Monarcha” brand, “earning my wings,” says Vic. “If you drink two bottles, cabernet and merlot side by side, you can fly.” A symbol for lifestyle, easy drinking wines and then the Palencia label, more serious, exulting Washington State’s diversity of grape varieties grown. The label depicts his father holding a shovel, “always working the land.” Palencia is located in Kennewick.

Godello foreground, background Vic Palencia

Charmat method, sweet and salty, like nuts and caramel corn but leaner and tighter as per the grace by variety. Simple stuff with good energy. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Says Columbia Valley but really should be called Ancient Lakes located in northwest Washington. But Columbia is more recognizable and so here we are. If it smells like albariño and tastes like albariño well, you know the rest but truthfully this is a less herbaceous and more mineral example. And so Ancient Lakes it is. The terroir is hardpan calcareous limestone, good for drainage and reduction of hydric stress with sandy loam of up to 19 inches above. Pretty good albariño for dessert lands so far from a coast – but the place is definitely the reason. Nice little CO2 buzz about it as well which is so varietally correct. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Malbec Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From Vic Palencia and family in Kennewick with Columbia Valley fruit, 14 months in wood. Nice little char and smoulder on sweetly salty and sour-edged fruit. Higher acidity than many malbecs and also valley wines so this wants and needs food. Mojo bowl anyone? Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Cabernet Sauvignon Monarcha 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

From the Richland Hills in the Columbia Valley where thicker skins and high quality fruit translate to unction and developed tannin. Cassis and Ribena mix, tart and candy hearts sour, in a good place right here and right now. Some powder in those tannins but resolution is just about complete. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Petit Verdot 2017, Wahluke Slope AVA

Part of the El Viñador line which is essentially Reserve style but the name is more specific and indicative of what it means to grow and make these kinds of varietal wines. From fruit grown on the Wahluke Slope AVA. Structure and mouthfeel justify the reasoning and the result, especially the tannic intensity and power at the yet to relent finish. Wood thickens, spices and sweetens the last third of this petit verdot which is really unlike any other, grown anywhere and produced as a solo artist. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Syrah El Viñador 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Red Mountain fruit and signature varietal effort but also style that Palencia seems most comfortable with. This is because the balance, restraint and finesse are at their collective finest in this kind of handsome and sturdy wine. Still some chalky and powdery tannin but overall the harmony and seamlessness are pretty spot on. Ready to go and please. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Top notch Paella at Palencia

Palencia Carmenère 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Sourced from the hottest region in Washington, that being Red Mountain and picked quite late. Nothing green about this carmenère, in fact it’s fruit and wood are thick as thieves, the tannins silken and the capsicum or jalapeño non-existent. Chewy like chocolate liquorice and very much a wine made for those who like it rich, luxe and thick. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Palencia Albariño El Viñador 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The founding vineyard for albariño at Palencia’s reserve line is as advertised more concentrated, focused and finessed. From various harvests each fermented separately for 30 days in Hungarian oak puncheons then blended together before bottling. Aiming for a Galician style though truth be told you can take the albariño out of Galicia but you can’t take the Columbia Valley out of this albariño. Warm, rich and unctuous, in the end. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Tirriddis Boys – Matthew Doutney, Gabriel Crowell and Andrew Gerow

Tirriddis

Tirage … Riddle … Disgorge. Tirriddis, acronym of sorts for three sparkling wine producing friends (Andrew Gerow, Gabriel Crowell, and Matthew Doutney) who celebrated the end of school with Gimonnet and Janz Champagne, fried chicken and chips. All attended Washington State University for viticulture and oenology. Their collective motto is “if we fail, we can always move back in with our parents. “Wine is a super architectural art form,” explains Gerow. “We’re really just trying to define Washington – defining typicality that really doesn’t exist yet.” First base wine were made in the Fall of 2020.

Tirriddis House Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

House tier is all about distribution, for restaurants and export in a fun and recognizable style. Here 100 per cent pinot gris, creamy aromatics, mousse as well, the sweetest of all the Tirridis wines at 11 g/L. Looks at reeling in a Prosecco crowd that can’t afford $50 sparkling wines. Sees 12 months on the lees and it is traditional method so expect some autolysis, mild oxidation and ultimately great energy. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Brut, Columbia Valley AVA

More than 50 percent of the base wine is original (from the fall of 2020) and is essentially chardonnay with a few percentage points of albariño. Tirridis for tirage-riddle-disgorge (clever) and the sugars are hidden behind the acidity. Raises a bar for the vital scintillant nature of grapes farmed for wines that transfer energy like sparks jumping from hydro pole to hydro pole. Similar creaminess and mousse to the pinot gris but the orchard fruit here is different than that peachy stone. Who would dare not pour this as a warm home welcome or by the licensee glass? Tastes like unbaked Washington with tight bubbles. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis House Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

One-quarter each cabernet sauvignon, syrah, merlot and chardonnay, not unusual for Washington per se though no real frame of reference from the sparkling diaspora neither. Celebrates red fruit, from currants through plums and this surely comes across drier than it is, not quite the 12 g/L of pinot gris but this is pretty taut and wound for Rosé bubbles. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Brut Rosé, Columbia Valley AVA

The second rendition of the Brut Rosé, three parts, in triage two years, of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and chardonnay. One-third each means less red fruit so more of a currant current and the yeasty feels step up sooner and for longer. Still a scintillant intensity of vitality and energy plus some bitters this time around. Anything but a soft, upturned Brut style and saying this is a tasting room profile is pretty much spot on. Just feels like the teaching moment and in turn signature for the boys’ intonement of style. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Washington Blend, Columbia Valley AVA

Everything but the kitchen sink though in actuality it is anything but because it’s not the last lot to be put together each season. A blank slate concept that intends to represents the region in an unapologetic way. Fruity first, of merlot, riesling, pinot gris, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, viognier and syrah. Neither Blanc nor Rosé but a rainbow of multifariousness and truth be told this is seamless fizz, a Venn diagram of varietal and geography, of potential, diversity and exceptionality. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Gris, Columbia Valley AVA

Third rendition looking for pure honeycomb and the guys feel they nailed it on number three, or at least set themselves upon a path to get it right there when number four comes to fruition. Why more sparkling producers do not refer to a varietal sparkling pinot gris in these terms is beyond me. It just fits. Creamy yes, with botanicals and bitters but the pear coulis flavour is uncanny. This goes a bit to herbal and preserved lemon foamy (and acidity is a bit subdued) but it’s close, oh so close. Can’t wait for rendition number four. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Tirriddis Blanc De Blanc Stonemark Single Vineyard 2020, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

First single vineyard sparkling wine, all chardonnay, small plantings in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, 1,600 feet of elevation, of brushy savour and direct hits of more than one kind of citrus. The concept is a growers’ one – with obvious connotations. Elevation is clearly the driver because this is about acidity and high intensity, all pervasive and above all else in what this site wishes to give. Poured from Magnum, extended triage. Lemony, tight, zesty and just about zero dosage. Can see this living six or seven years. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Riley Miller, Sonder

Sonder

Established in 2016 by Riley Miller. Low-Fi, non-intervention, but not natural wines. Inspired by his time in the McLaren Vale. The initial production in 2016 was 100 cases – today about 3,000 cases. A thinker, but not too hard, yet still a man of wonder. Likes to consult the Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, from which the realization is concluded that everyone around you has a complex life, as much as your own – but we can’t comprehend half of it. “We are like monkeys flying on a rock through space.” Observe Miller conduct a wine tasting for visiting journalists and you can imagine the inner workings of a modern day winemaking production. Riley’s bottles are anything but some kind of toad swindle. They are made for all of us, including those who don’t know it yet.

Sonder Rosé Cinsault 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Trying to capture a Provençal style, 24 hours of skin contact, gently extracted and truly crushable. Lightly tart, basic, simple, unadorned. Native ferment. Truly cinsault to be honest. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache Blanc 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Big chunk of the fruit comes from Boucher Vineyards and a smaller portion out of the Rattlesnake Hills. Warm and mature though high elevations keep it fresh and again the naked nature of a Riley Miller wine make this immediately crushable. Unadulterated, no make up and local. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Roussanne 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

True expression of grape, not necessarily “perfect” wines, nor is there any reason to want them to be but they are representative of site and Washington. Neutral oak, tropical notes, fresh papaya and pineapple syrup, tart and textural with thanks to some stirring. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Orange, mostly viognier with some marsanne and roussanne, six weeks on skins, six months in neutral oak. Grapes that don’t really bring the orange but instead the partly cloudy pineapple juice hue. A wine that challenges why orange is the ubiquitous term because funk and melting salve are not the thing. Spice yes and litchi, also grapefruit and the most mild of bitters. Has that anesthetic feel on the palate. Third iteration of this wine. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Co-Ferment 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A co-ferment of grenache and picpoul, first time trying, served chilled, “a patio pounder.” Watermelon Jolly Rancher insists Riley Miller, 11.5 percent and as crushable as wine can possibly get. Juice. Water, pink, alcohol. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Red Field Blend 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Mostly counoise and grenache with some cinsault, viognier and roussanne. A couple of weeks on skins, co-fermented with some whole cluster and carbonic maceration. Simple, drinkable, low alcohol, currants and red berries, sweet acidity, a moment of balsamic and charred herbs. The grapes almost combine for a cabernet franc or even lightly smoky cannonau meets carmenère effect. Nothing else like it and better for that. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sonder Grenache 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Rarely made grenache by method and style “as close to pinot as is humanly possible” says Riley Miller. Picked early, 20 percent whole cluster, Western Cape stylistic, light, low alcohol, fresh and shadowy, suggestively if sneaky tannic. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

The Orcas Project Nebbiolo Andrews Vineyard 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

“The Orcas Project is a collaboration between some of the most talented winemakers in the Northwest and a collection of Orcas Island artists. The idea to combine these two groups of people was born on the island and continues to expand throughout the Northwest. Each winemaker that is part of The Orcas Project is paired with an artist and represented by a different label.” Riley Miller’s is pseudo carbonic for which 50 per cent whole cluster is added back on top – makes for a grippy if light and effusive style. Cherry, candy apple and onion skin. Picked early as if for Rosé and frankly reminds of Cerasuolo. Fine bitters, good balance and a bit of roasted nightshade char. Cinnamon heart finish. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Kinnikinick Red

Chateau Ste Michelle

Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington State’s oldest winery, and many of Washington’s most famed winemakers got their start with the Estate. Ste Michelle is also the largest producer of Riesling in the world, and has winemaking partnerships with two international vintners: Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen. As part of the visit, the Canadian team was treated to a Blending Experience.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica 2022, Columbia Valley

More than a hint of residual sugar yet the driest style for CSM and though the relationship is with Ernie Loosen this is not Mosel style. Fruit is sourced primarily from the Evergreen Vineyard to bring Eroica into its proverbial and ironic sweet spot. The “hero” is in ode to the winery’s varietal roots and a Beethoven reference. Bit of residual CO2, high acid and truly tart. Balanced vintage, vital and energy elevating. Will be one of Eroica’s better agers. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Indian Wells 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Much like Eroica there is a residual CO2 buzz and at least twice if not three times the number (here eat 30 g/L) of residual sugar. Quite rich, luxe and opulent with just a few sites left to create this round and sweet style. High Kabinett or low Spätlese in a sense but without the supporting acid. More Mosel here and yet also quite a lot more phenolics and tonic. For a consumer that likes sweet wines but can be drawn into riesling, followed by some less sweet varietal examples. Some wine producing and drinking habits never die. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Relatively rich and luxe chardonnay style, sweetly buttery, soft and creamy. No real bite but just easy, amenable and though considered a cooler spot with better acidity than some it’s still as round as chardonnay gets. Softens more and more as it slides down and feeds away. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Indian Wells 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Reds are the main focus at Indian Wells and while the style is opulence, this cabernet sauvignon is surely designed to be consumed ASAP. Tannins are present yet sweetly soft and wood soaks up everything, then returns it with semi-sweet chocolate. A quarter is new American oak and 20 percent is French. Soft with some sweetness, macerated plums and that ever pervasive chocolate. Hugely consumer friendly. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

A third new French and seven percent American wood truly sheathes, thickness and wraps merlot up in a nurturing flannel blanket for merlot that has softened into an almost ideal drinking state. The 2016 was much more tannic and though some omnipresent balsamic shows here it’s more reduced, sweeter and less high-toned. Lower acid here, at 4.8. Warm and caressing vintage for the palate and our emotions. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Cold Creek Vineyard is a very successful vintage for cabernet sauvignon, more finely tannic and higher in acid than 2016. The energy is special, the harmony between fruit, acid, tannin and wood far superior to other seasons and also other growing sites. Yes there is luxe fruit, concentrated and substantial but the combination of harvest and winemaking makes for an exceptional combination out of 2019. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Chateau Ste Michelle Syrah Limited Release Organic 2020, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Deep purple, fruit sweetness from über ripeness and a clarity or cleansing feeling for naturally curated and orchestrated syrah. So profoundly bright new world in style and effect, delicious to the nth degree and openly gratifying. Drink up. Tasted June 2023

14 Hands Winery

14 Hands

Chateau Ste Michelle property located in Prosser.

14 Hands Pinot Gris 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Clean, fresh, soda feel that puts the style in gris though there’s not much separating it from grigio, either from the Columbia Valley or across the pond delle Venezie. Vague melon and honeyed flower blossoms but when all is said and done this easiest to get at pinot gris from the grand Columbia Valley is a simple glass of white ubiquity. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Roussanne Marsanne The Reserve 2022, Rattlesnake Hills AVA

Crisp Rhône white blend with a small percentage of wood to give it a wisp of smoulder that combines with some lees stirring for a creamy mid-palate. Higher in pH than some of this sort of Yakima ilk to result in elevated sapidity, a toothsome quality and finally piquant bite. Quite a bit of sulphur to work through but no worry because being structurally sound and very “reserve” in style the fruit and the composure will rise and win in the end. Give this some air, a swirl and agitation to coax out the charm. Just a 350 case production. Drink 20224-2027. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Stampede 2018, Columbia Valley AVA

Stampede is 14 Hands’ self-declared “bold red wine” and while the marketing sounds like something in the realm of BBQ sauce this is really impressive for the price. Essentially syrah with some petit verdot “to give it some shoulders” tells winemaker Keith Kenison who has been with the winery since its inception. French oak dominant translating as lavender, jasmine and vanilla, the latter a tincture that permeates much of the aromas and flavours. Yes it’s confected but also rich and unctuous for $15 (US). Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon The Reserve 2019, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Led by cabernet sauvignon and labeled as such though there are supports from both cabernet franc and merlot. A protein cabernet, meaning it drinks with strength and pairing it alongside entrée portion meats, preferably red will do it best justice. Carries that full barrel feeling in surround of a swell (mainly black) fruit and incredible richness, feeling like sweetness, but the wine is bone dry. Wood resin, syrups, up and into a whole other level of concentration. The most refined and luxurious of the 14 Hands reds (or whites) that competes with top Washington and also some heavier priced California examples. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Goose Cap AVA at Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Gap AVA

Goose Ridge Vineyards

Goose Ridge in Richland and adjacent to Red Mountain is unique in that it is the owner of its own (Goose Gap) AVA, approved three years ago. The first planting of cabernet sauvignon was 25 years ago in 1998 and today there are a total of 2,500 acres of vines. The Monson family dates back to the early 1900s when M.L. Monson brought his family to the Yakima Valley. Taylor is the fourth generation, dad and two sisters (Bill, Molly and Valerie) are the third. The family is equally famous for cultivating Cosmic Crisp Apples (that don’t brown), developed with Washington State University and the first to grow them. The visit in the vines and through the facility culminated in a quick tasting of four wines though the setting was not conducive to formulating proper tasting notes.

Red Mountain

Col Solare

Located on Antinori Road in Benton City is the Château Ste Michelle Red Mountain partnership with Tuscany’s most famous family. A tour with Col Solare’s hospitality team reveals the bond with the mothership. “Antinori dictates what we do and the style of wines they want us to make.” There are no problems, only solutions and fixing issues like re-planting problematic cabernet sauvignon blocks is in the process of a three-year plan. “The only wine we make here that the Antinoris care about is cabernet sauvignon – so it has to be great.” The new winemaker is Stephanie Cohen, a Michigan graduate in Chemical Engineering. Cohen worked in New Zealand, Margaret River and Napa Valley, where she met Marcus Notaro, first winemaker at Col Solare. Stephanie went to Oregon, then Columbia Crest, then arrived at Col Solare three years ago. She was appointed head winemaker on July 1st, taking over from Darel Allwine. “Do we love what Stephanie is doing? Short answer is yes.”

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

The vintage brings about three major changes; label, style and price. The Col Solare had been in the $75-85 range going on 10 years but now it’s about Antinori wanting something “better.” In every respect ’19 is certainly darker and richer, of an impenetrable hue and structure. An Italian cabernet sauvignon, as close to Bolgheri Guado Al Tasso as Col Solare has ever been, but this holding pattern will almost surely be temporary. A Red Mountain interpretation from small (blueberry-sized) berries, raised with low vigour off of soils of sand and silt. Aged 22 months, not quite but pretty close to 100 percent new oak. Racked every three or four months, to eliminate slag and to refine, refine, refine. Aids in tannin transformation and eliminates the need for fining. A cabernet of great depth, of Cassis, mint and graphite. Luxe character, finesse, if not the level of fantasy wished for – but this new is the first of the new. By 2020 invention should meet vision for the next level of Col Solare quality. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Essentially cabernet sauvignon with five percent franc while only 2015 and 2020 have been 100 percent. From the hottest wine-growing AVA in Washington state, with basalt below the soil surface, irrigated six to eight inches per year. Early picked and in 2023 this will likely start on or around the 20th of August, to finish off what has been “a really weird year.” There are 4,040 total acres in an AVA considered one of seriously high quality. Col Solare has been growing here since 2011 but not enough to meet production numbers and so six Red Mountain contract growers are involved. The average case number is 5,000 for a cabernet sauvignon as suave as it is rich though 2018 is the last of an era, because 2019 will mark changes to concentration, detail and price. Meanwhile the ’18 is equipped with the finest powdery tannins. Truth is there can be no denying the quality levels of fruit, wood and tannin. All relatable to uncompromising labour, time put in and attention to detail. It’s all too perfect. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Col Solare Merlot 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Though 2019 was marked by an unusual Spring in a cooler and by extension leaner year it’s a relative thing and so Col Solare has still made a very substantial wine. This label falls under the auspices of the Component Collection, a “Tenuta” expression mainly intended for the Wine Club. All estate fruit, built on the premise of perfume ostensibly if allegedly a Washington state desert opportunity exaggerated on Red Mountain. Intense violets with blue fruits that merlot will express at these magnified levels when allowed to. Still tight as far as structure is concerned but thankfully three-plus years have allowed for some wood integration and tannic settling. A fruit emergence is underway and frankly encouraged, more so than the cabernet, if here in merlot not quite as polished as a wine. The finish shows the rusticity and austerity of the tannins while the quality of the chocolate is nothing if not impressive. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

With Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges

“Our driving force is for our wines to have a Red Mountain quality,” is basically the first sentence uttered by proprietor Christophe Hedges. “I don’t know if we’re trying to be authentic but we are following our mother’s lead, that if you are going to do something, do it correctly.” Anne-Marie Liégeois grew up in Ossey-les-Trois-Maisons, in Champagne, France. She married Tom Hedges from Richland, Washington in 1976. Their first wines were sold to Sweden in 1997. The first vineyards on Red Mountain in the Yakima Valley were planted in 1989 and 1990 and the winery-Chateau was built in 1995. Christophe returned in 2012 and is National Sales Director while sister Sarah Hedges Goedhart took over full-time winemaking in 2015. This coincides with the first certified label under the biodynamic program which began back in 2008. Goedhart says there’s no formula ever. “We’re just trying to be guided by what the grape’s want to be. Blending is the hardest part.”

Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christope Hedges

Hedges Le Blanc Déscendants Liégeois Dupont 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A program that began in 2014, use of older barrels, some lees contact and bâttonage. A niche wine from Rhône grapes (namely marsanne with viognier), because whites at this level just don’t sell all that much. Even as brix levels rise the pH on this wine remains quite static and so as an aromatic white this remains pungently salty and avoids the starchy. Richer than expected and dutifully harmonious, clearly a wine of class, beauty and understatement. Lemon and orange peel, really nutty and slightly toasty, with only 400-500 cases made from just one hectare. It will change a lot and get brinier and brinier, becoming even better with stronger aged cheeses and many things cured. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Wines CMS Made With Organic Grapes 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

The “American” version label, minimally sulphured and just bottled a week ago. A “farm” style wine, crunchy and sitting right there with a local sense of terroir, northwest, Columbia Valley, very different than what comes from Red Mountain. That said it has more Red Mountain fruit than Columbia Valley. The blend is 48 percent cabernet sauvignon, (44) merlot and (8) syrah, subjected to very, very little new wood. Fresh and clean with an iodine and wet concrete note, almost Western Cape in style. Spice and intensity speak about house style with a broad stroke on a painted picture. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Wine 2021, Red Mountain AVA

A blend off all the vineyards on Red Mountain (Hedges, Jolet, Bel’Villa, Magdalena and Les Gosses), berries about half the size of what comes from Columbia Valley. A higher pH place with less water conversion and more evaporation. Yields are smaller by half and extraction levels the opposite with thicker skins and when ripe, also crunchier seeds. The ’21 blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, (26) merlot, (9) syrah, (6) cabernet franc, (3) malbec and (1) petit verdot. Aged in 62 percent American and (38) French wood. Rich, luxe, concentrated and fixated on its home, that being these five blocks on the Red and frankly the palate feels intoxicated or anesthetized by the command of attention and purpose dictated by place. A top vintage, without a doubt. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Le Haute Cuvée 2018, Red Mountain AVA

This is 99.77 percent cabernet sauvignon and the rest, well does it matter? A cuvée that goes back to 1987 and here a Hedges professed, native ferment instructed great vintage. Lots of different cabernet sauvignon components make up this prominent and confident biodynamic wine. Red to black fruit, a noted brininess, higher acidity, seemingly lower pH, saltiness and dusty Christmas spice. The potential here runs long and deep, without weight and still some iodine, balsamic and minty freshness. Shot of espresso conclusion that speaks to another level of tannic dust and combust. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Touriga Nacional 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Quite possibly the future of Red Mountain, at least for Hedges, having planted three Portuguese grapes some time ago. Their heat resistance and ability to adapt preps them for next level climate extreme to come. Aged in 100 percent neutral American barrels and coming away liquid chalky, dark and feigning vague sweetness. Drips and oozes with Red Mountain iron, iodine and though truly opaque, there is this transparency of pace and place that cannot be hidden. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

No mention of Hedges on the front label but instead Anne-Marie’s family name because you have to respect your history. And the vineyard is hers, planted in 2006 then certified biodynamic in 2019. A block that winemaker Sarah Goedhart runs through with several different picks, some falling on one side and some on the stylistic other, than blended back in together. Its richness is anything but gratuitous, the depth descendent and built upon the idea or concept of gravitas. Full, complete and a most satisfying mouthful. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Rich, thick and finely layered syrah from the distinct entity that is Red Mountain with its not to be missed meaty, mineral, sanguine, ferric rich, red earth character. There is an underlying chalkiness here and one that will surely determine a long life ahead, as witnessed by the linger and hang around ability of of a syrah on a clear and present mission. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Déscendents Liégois Dupont Le Rosé Les Gosses Vineyard 2022, Red Mountain AVA

A kitchen sink Rosé blend led by syrah (42 percent) with (21) mourvèdre, (18) cunoise and (14) grenache. Aromatic as much as syrah is want to go, for us and so the Rhône gang’s get together works so bloody well. There is a sanguine character with thanks to the mountain’s soil and the movement here is classical, strings reverberating, flowing, rising and falling, no real cresencedo but a softening and fade. Just lovely stuff. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain Reserve 1999, Red Mountain AVA

The artist formerly known as Red Mountain Reserve became Le Haute Cuvée with the 2012 vintage. Hedges was both ahead of their time (because the word Reserve was already losing its wine world lustre) and respectful of family history by labelling in a Champagne or at least a French vernacular. Here is a nearly 24 year-old red blend that has aged remarkably well and though thinking miraculously was a momentary thought – there is no miracle but something more profound at play. The Mountain for one thing and a family at least a decade ahead of the curve. Early Washington organics, no reverse osmosis, no mechanical filtration and no lobotomizing a bottle of red wine. Yes the secondary notes are present and they are settled in a state of absolute proprietary grace. Very little trace of tannin, nor any barrel that is but a superfine mountain induction that makes for a silky feeling in the mouth. There is a chance this will live another 24 years but the fruit is already leaving and so 12 should be the maximum with half that the truest and most honest recommendation. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Hedges Family Estate Syrah Bell Villa Vineyard 2012, Red Mountain AVA

Tasted from magnum (bottle 110 of 200 to be exact) and shocked (in a redacted moment) by how fresh and non-advanced this wine persists to be. This syrah is from a vineyard that was the second one planted on Red Mountain and what we are faced with is a 15 year-old block that was so far ahead of its time. Tasting this 10-plus years after vintage feels like fiercely re-reading an old Tom Robbins novel, celebrating the proper work of the past and predicting what will be essential in the future. The search back then begets syrah in hot climates now. Getting the sage brush but now, now the fungi have come about, though not the kind that grow in a western rainforest. More like that which emerges from a burn site. In any case the impression is syrah from a beautifully stark place. La belle de campagne. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Walla Walla

SMAK Wines

SMAK Wines is the first Asian woman owned and operated winery in Walla Walla producing exclusively Rosé. “Rosé to me is more than just a beverage, it is a lifestyle. I wanted to bring this lifestyle here and so SMAK was born.”- Fiona Mak, Owner & Winemaker.

SMAK Sangiovese Spring 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

SMAK Wines is the work of Fiona (Sui Wah) Mak and sangiovese is made just like the pinot gris, save for how it exults the high acid and sharp nature of sangiovese. Still so light and rainwater clean, not quite petrichor but yes, a Rosé that drinks like water. Back up the truck for this glug-glug, glou-glou, grape witches fantasy of Rosé. Salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Gris Summer 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

I mean not all that different than the sangiovese if lighter, lower in acid and well, summery. Light, bright, tender, carefree, unadorned and even saltier, to be honest. Just what you need, whether you know it or not and well before you even know your needs are needed. Salty magic as koan. Koan of Rosé. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Autumn 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with syrah and its autumnal personality, barrel fermented in neutral wood, some malolactic and so not the usual but rather a Rosé with some extra nuance, spice, texture and fantasy. No lewd or ambitious stylistic departure from Spring and Summer, just a bit more grounded, of blush gravitas, creaminess and something needed to be explained. Rosé smackdown without any undesired anxiety or tension. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Syrah Bubbly Blend Winter 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fizz Rosé by syrah with some addendum by grenache and a few extra grams of residual sugar to keep the harmony and faith alive. Nice little bit of naturalization in the way the wine sits on the palate and melts like a caramel and lemongrass salve. Red currants and again, coming across dry and just tannic enough to keep things moving forward. Would like another half gram of acid for best energy and more length. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Cabernet Franc Rosé Abstract #1 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

There is just something about cabernet franc that when it’s made into Rosé (and made well) the grape variety is more recognizable than almost any other. Fiona Mak has captured grape and what just has to be place with a level of calm and hypnotism that Rosé rarely sees. Drink a glass, get your Rosé buzz on, feel OK for the rest of the day. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

SMAK Pinot Noir Rosé Abstract #2 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Gotta say this might be the best use of pinot noir in Washington, light, salty and without distraction to cause any overthinking. Closer to the sangiovese than any of the others and with an extra layer of volatility, sharpness and tang. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

With Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker – Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars

The story of Gramercy Cellars began with a Manhattan-based sommelier tasting and becoming inspired by Washington State wines. He sells everything to move across the country to make his own. Master Sommelier Greg Harrington and production winemaker Brandon Moss are the mad scientists, experimental music makers, open-minded and forward thinking team. They are intuitive and paying attention to the extremities of climate events. Fully aware that 2020 was a brutal smoke year and so 25 percent was balked out after remediation. “Mourvèdre can handle it” tells Moss, but “cabernet franc and pinot noir simply can’t.” Elizabeth Tommasino at Oregon State is researching “columns” that neutralize smoke taint without stripping varietal from wines.

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul Pét Nat

Sparkling picpoul, low pH, high acidity, aromatically neutral and boom, Pét-Nat. Left on its lees for something like 10 months before being disgorged and so yeasty is the understatement. Graffiti labeled, an element of Gramercy Park, NYC ode. Smells like chèvre and preserved lemon, minutely funky and well, extremely French. Weirdly so and the yeasty-bready ready quality is more sourdough than anything else but also this dry-aged beef note that purists will really love. This is how you make wine without excess sulphur, cultured yeasts and for the purpose of re-fermentative ideals. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Picpoul 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Not a whole helluva lot of picpoul made in the United States and especially in hot climates but it ripens late and the acidity can be maintained – that said you need a lot of heat to get it ripe. This may not be the Languedoc and the lean, salty, low pH style without lees weight or drive puts this in a league of its own. Vines were planted in 2013, clusters are loose and massive, the wine it makes is acid-driven, fresh and simple. Pencil lead, cinnamon heart and fennel pollen. More complex than you might think. All lemon and lime on the finish. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Viognier 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Sourced from Lake Chelan for a cooler climate base and then the Gramercy vineyard called Forgotten Hills in the Walla Walla Valley. The WW fruit is all barrel fermented while the Lake fruit is only treated to forty percent. The complete opposite of the typically recent warm vintages and so don’t come looking for tropical fruit and fresh roses. Think orchards, of pear and then that douse of lime with a salty finish. Summertime temperatures in later September brought weight and closure to this ’22 viognier. Might still be a tad lean but phenolics are solid and balance is not to be questioned. This is viognier for those who don’t always love viognier. Thank you warm October. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Mourvèdre “L’Idiot Du Village” 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Varietal, from Olson Vineyard west of Red Mountain up on the north ridge, back hill of Benton City. Hot for ripeness though not quite Red Mountain hot. Fermentation and aging in concrete with more barriques involved and then a racking back to concrete. Nearly 60 percent whole cluster because the vintage said so and biting into the stems directed such a decision. First vintage was 2009 and along with 2010 it was a GSM-C blend but over time (and as a result of a trip to Bandol) the weird blend was dropped in favour of making mourvèdre, a.k.a. the true Washington rock star. Peppery but no char, herbal though never herbaceous, red fruit strong without any unnecessary tension or power. Kind, soft and nurturing for the grape. Terrific use of whole bunch, proper and grape related. No bitterness, no smoke taint. Clean as it gets. Pretty much ready to pop and pour. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

On the Blue Mountain side of Walla Walla, picked early in most parts of the state but not until October in Forgotten Hills, set down below in an ancient riverbed in the valley. De-stemmed in 2019 because of some mild issues and very much a red fruit juicy, lighter character of syrah with peppery liquidity and little to no sharp bites of tang. Crunchy stuff, relatively low in Rotundun and made to respect the vintage which did not want the makers to keep the bunches whole. Nothing aggressive here, fruit always winning. A fifth of the tannic austerity that the (whole cluster component) brought to the 2017. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Forgotten Hills 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Nothing wrong with a little bit of age on a syrah that has come into its own with thanks to the powers that be so that we can enjoy the fruits and the result of great labour. The present matters and yet there is a tension and even tannic austerity that asks for even moie time. Such a well crafted syrah, as meaty and coursing as it is fruity or getable, in fact there are few that can match the wound intensity, focus and restrained power as this by Gramercy denotes. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted June 2023

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe 2019, Yakima Valley AVA

From Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley near the town of Wapino. The first Washington syrah vineyard planted in the 1980s by David Lake, a Master of Wine, with Mike Sauer, in 1987. The old block is called Chapel Hill and this is 100 percent whole cluster syrah, completely apposite to Forgotten Hills even though it’s the same vintage. Aromatic concentration, full bodied nature and a naturally sweet meets savoury personality that is quite frankly intoxicating. Lagniappe as Frangipane, something wild and free, a crushed rock and berry entanglement and something profound. Really tight and precise. “Wait, did you hear that?” What’s the music playing? Somewhere down the Crazy River? Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates

In 1889, Joaquin Martínez Bujanda began the family winemaking tradition in Oyón, a small town in Northern Spain. His son, Marcelino, and his grandson, Jesús, followed in his footsteps. Jesús’ son, Don Jesús Martínez Bujanda, created Bodegas Valdemar in the 1980s. His son, Jesús Martínez Bujanda (5th generation), is the current CEO of the family’s winemaking business, and his sister, Ana Martínez Bujanda, is the Cheif Operations Officer for Bodegas Valdemar. Jesús fell in love with the Walla Walla Valley while he was a student at the University of Washington. His passion for winemaking and for the valley led him to create Valdemar Estates.

Valdemar Estates Chardonnay 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Clearly a top chardonnay site and the luxe character is evident, as is the acid, freshness and piqued intensity. The look here is texture, playful movements and interactions between parts so think down south but back to the motherland and south from there. Valdemar paired this with beets, mango and pistachio – my that does work. The finale on this chardonnay is warm and spiced, a harmony of seasoning after fruit and wood subside. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Entre Nosotros 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

“This is our entry level cabernet sauvignon (at $44),” tells Jesús Martínez Bujanda, “but it is the most important wine that we make at the winery. It has to over deliver.” And so the introduction (with some merlot and petit verdot) is the wine that acts as the entry drug and bridge to the top end wines that a Rioja producer thinks creates exceptional wines out of not only the Walla Walla Valley, but also the greater Columbia Valley. You can immediately feel and tell that a Rioja mentality infiltrates the place but how could it not? The chalkiness of the tannins are remarkably fine and the spicy character actually pricks and piques the palate. Purple fruit, creosote, graphite and wood that will take a few years to melt in. The fruit is equipped to handle it. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard 2020, Red Mountain AVA

Immediately noticeable as a cabernet sauvignon from a warmer site, fruit rich and concentrated, doubly substantial and even further developed as richly tannic. Fully, completely substantial and laden with finest grains of tannins in chains every finer, braided as tight as is seemingly possible. Dusty but a thick, duff like matter, coating every minute part of the palate. There are no holes or moments of lag but only heavy set fruit, supportive acids and those massive tannins. Terrific work from winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla and not sure there is a better cabernet sauvignon made anywhere in Spain. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted August 2023

Valdemar Estates Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Here Syrah comes from the hottest districts in North America, known as The Rocks, an ancient riverbed on the Washington-Oregon border filled with basaltic cobbles. Valdemar owns a portion and this is arguably THE PLACE to grow syrah in the west. Floral with high level black pepper for classic syrah-Rotundun style. Meaty, with iodine and charcuterie but with no compromise to fruit concentration. A substantial wine in all respects, tannic and well extracted, again across all parts of regard. It can be imagined that the style will change over the next few years as finesses continues to hone in on just what the Rocks wants to give out of vintages ever diverse. Last tasted August 2023

Full on pitchy dark fruit swells from Valdemar, layered, chewy and ropey, like liquorice of many splendored flavours. Full on ripeness and natural sweetness by way of expression without any compromise or conceit of structure. An earlier drinking example though also one that will do well for up to five years because the fruit is just that deep. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted June 2023

L’Ecole No. 41

The old Frenchtown school operated until 1974 and was bought in 1977 with the idea of turning it into a winery. First harvest and official founding was in 1983. Marty Clubb is celebrating his 40th Anniversary. Jean and Baker Ferguson founded the winery in 1983, well before there was a wine industry in Washington. Third in Walla Walla, 20th in the state. Marty was winemaker from 1989 and today its Mark Trafanelli, since 2018. Now 50,000 cases, increasing by 1,000-1,500 every year since 1989. Cabernet is into its 50th leaf, merlot close, chenin blanc next and first sémillon was on Sagamore, also the Wahluke Slope. Not a lot off new plantings and so the overall amount is declining. They make upwards of 30 percent in the state and even more than that in chenin blanc. The school at 500 ft is in a cold frost belt so the older vineyards are planted at 800-900 ft and the new Ferguson Vineyard on basalt is at 1,500. Climate change has improved winter weather ability while diurnal temperature changes can add up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

With Marty Clubb, L’École 41

L’École No 41 Chenin Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Older than 35 years of age and so like the Western Cape OVP the labelling is old vines. Akin to old bones but with experience, resistance to weather issues and creating high level concentration. Some of the fruit comes from the Newhouse family’s vineyard with century vines, sour rot dirty laundry and all. Clones probably came up from Dry Creek Valley in California and my if this does not strike a balanced accord between dry and sour, concentrated and tart. Just woollen enough to mimic the Loire and act nothing like California. Length is more than impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Sémillon 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

Comes across as having some sweetness but be fooled once because it’s glycerol that gives the impression, so truth be told the sensory give is astral and incidentally Van Morrison’s seminal track from the eponymous record is playing in the tasting room as the wine is poured. The 2022 shows some early flint and petrol, balanced by the texture developed as a result of extra lees time. Another push-pull example of a L’École No. 41 white off of vines with experience. Just the right amount of tonic and bitters pop at the finish.
“To be born again
In another world
In another world
In another time.”
Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Chardonnay 2022, Columbia Valley AVA

A good chunk of this fruit comes from the original block on a crested hill of the larger Evergreen Vineyard. Dear Mr. Fantasy, pour me some chardonnay, from ice age silt and sand, stones and minerals that when respected, treats a consumer to this kind of salty-sapid harmonic chardonnay. All barrel fermented, all French and 20 percent new. I mean it’s an amount and style truly Burgundian with some tropical fruit because it is 2022 and yet acidity is crisp with green apple bites to balance what is also creamy texture. Middle road compared to the chenin and sémillon but also so perfectly professional. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The original estate red, the only one made in the 1980s and still the one that delivers earthy and herbal tones. The 18 percent cabernet franc (plus drips of malbec and petit verdot) creates the verdant and forest floor notes. Good red to red-black fruit from 2020 with highest level phenols and a sweet, pretty persuasion. A couple of glasses and then the melatonin sets in, followed by a near guarantee of REM sleep. “It’s what I want, hurry and buy.” Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“We have a lot of old vine cab,” says Marty Clubb, which indeed drives the machine, but there no real reason to name that on the label. Minimum age is 30 with many over 50 for a 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, all picked in October. Rich, viscous, unctuous and most important – experienced. Chalky and the barrel brings both good dark chocolate and dusty espresso to the finish. Age this five years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Merlot White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The highest level for merlot has Bordeaux Right Bank in mind and here the mix of windblown loess topsoil and basalt takes the grape up to where great minds and ambition want to meet. Huge fruit vintage, thick as thieves with structure twice pointed and the overall result is a big and cellaring potential merlot. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted August 2023

With La Leggenda, Ange Aiello

L’École No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon White Label 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Less than 2,000 cases are made of the three vineyard (Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Ferguson) sourced cabernet sauvignon. Here comes the Cassis and herbal-savoury note with dried fruit moments red to purple and finally an impressive set of varietal meets site(s) circumstances. Averages out at 35 percent new wood and yes the fruit receives the wood with open arms. Long and age-worthy, longer than the merlot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’Ecole No. 41 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Proprietary Red 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The 31st vintage of Apogee. From the central part of the valley where cool air seems to be blowing through at all times. Heat accumulation is lower, hang time longer and the site is picked in late October, just ahead of the first frost. Planted in what would a millennium ago have been wher there were ice age flows. This is 56 percent cabernet sauvignon, (28) merlot, (12) malbec and (4) cabernet franc. The site tends – to more leather-tobacco and here it is also horse saddle noted which is Bordeaux in mimicry. The soil derived from ice age flows is what we extend in belief as being the reason. Why not? Serious character and complexity, finest tannins of the estate’s Bordeaux reds and from 2020 likely a 15 year run to come. Maybe longer. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A proprietary name imagined by Martin Clubb’s father-in-law to explain site which is at high elevation on the south side of the valley planted in 1980. The soil is 15 feet of wind-blown loess sitting atop another 15 feet of ice age flow. Extended maceration is the treatment for this proprietary blend which is composed of the free run portion of the juice because both the cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot showed hints of smoke taint. Perigee incidentally is the closest spot in the moon relative to the earth. A super moon in lay-person’s terms. The blend is 54 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (12) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Rich and smouldering, thick black currant almost syrupy but so high in glycerol and what impresses but also harmonizes this red is its sweet and bracing acidity. Makes the smoulder unimportant though it will always be there in the shadows. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The basalt vineyard with hardened-fractured, three-dimensional cube of rock that breaks or fragments to the touch. Also iron rich clay and this is the only place in Washington State with soil like this. The third of three estate proprietary reds that buds early and are picked late. Grapes are thick-skinned and the conversion rates mean rich fruit, high acidity and length. Blend here is 59 percent cabernet sauvignon, (24) merlot, (7) cabernet franc, (6) malbec and (4) petit verdot. Picks at an acidity level off the charts and then settles so that pH is low, but not crazy low. First vintage was 2011 and believe it or not Phylloxera was found in the vineyard. New plantings are helping to keep things moving swimmingly along. Rich berries of three colours, dusty meets chalky tannins and all the dark chocolate and espresso of great and fine ilk. Huge wine and that’s exactly what it wants and is surely touted to be. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted August 2023

L’École No. 41 Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

“What’s the sense of changing horses in midstream” and so syrah is poured last, with 1+2 percent grenache and mourvèdre. Some stem addition (20 percent at the bottom of the totes) to make sure a bit of Mediterranean black olive and caper note slide on in. Black pepper necessity and more barrel than some but well integrated and no doubt also seasoning to add more of what skins and stems have already given to the fruit. A sanguine note, hematic streaks, blood on the tracks. Spicy and fulsome, a very substantial syrah that like the Bordeaux reds will also age quite well. Acumen and top vineyards ensure this will be. Syrah, you’re a big girl now. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

The Cellar at Woodward Canyon

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard

Family owned, by Rick and Darcey Small. Selena Kritsonis runs hospitality and husband Sager Small is vineyard manager. Kevin Mott is the winemaker. 8,000 cases in total

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, Washington State

First planted in 1978, barrel effect dialled back over the years, now 20 percent new wood and no malolactic whatsoever. All estate fruit with the newer (north facing, refreshening) block planted back in 2011. Pretty spot on classic ode to the motherland style that sees ripest fruit without freshness limitations meeting just enough wood for softness, creamy texture and overall Washington State high caste ubiquity. Truly proper and correct for sense of place and intendment. Vague impression of sweetness says quite a bit about fruit quality and style. The length is impressive. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Estate fruit at the western edge of the Walla Wally Valley, two blocks used, 25 year-old Clone 3 old vine and also the younger Clone 181. The most western vineyard in the AVA, drier and warmer, a climate as much akin to red Mountain as it is to the Blue Mountains area of the WWV. Warm and dry vintage, lower than average yields and nearly 50 percent new wood, French and Hungarian. Pushing 15 percent alcohol yet holding both that and the wood with esteem. Aromatically spicy, dusty fennel pollen, tannins as well. Fine acids and chalky like so many, especially from vineyards west of this valley. Two-toned in all these respects, cooler herbal Amaro notes meeting warm and developed richness. Lots of ganache on the back end of this wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #29 2020, Washington State

Flagship wine from vines averaging 35 years with each label painted by a different West Coast artist. The vineyards are four-fold; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor, Weinbau and Wallula Gap. Nearly 40 per cent new wood, French and American, actually cab-dominant (76 percent) with other Bordeaux grapes involved. The rest are (12) petit verdot, (5) cabernet franc, (4) merlot and (3) syrah. Shows less wood than the merlot and more variegate red fruit. Also more espresso and less chocolate because the red berries really stand apart. Something candied comes late, like cinnamon hearts meeting reduced balsamic. Would match well with flank steak and chimichurri with slow roasted aubergines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines 2020, Washington State

Originally called “Dedication Series” and first made in 1981. Oldest cabernet blocks are chosen from three vineyards; Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor and Weinbau. This sees 100 percent new French wood and just three percent each petit verdot and malbec bring grip and spice to the cabernet. So much wood to integrate, melt and assimilate before a wine of this luxe nature and fullest concentration can pour with any real charm and grace. Huge fruit and creaminess, The 1972 Sagemoor fruit (equivalent to Bacchus for other producers) is the experienced anchor and overall the wine does act out as a heritage passion play with age-worthiness at the highest level for the estate. It’s unctuous and thick, again in delivery of that vague impression of sweetness though that number is not listed on the technical sheets. Those who love the fullest of full cabernet sauvignon should keep this in their hearts along with any number off much higher prices iterations from Napa Valley. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery

Casey McClelland is the founder, of Celtic roots (thus the logo). 1980 planted founding vineyard, established winery in 1988, was originally setup in Milton-Freewater (in Oregon). Moved into the Whitehouse Crawford Building in Walla Walla in 2000. #5 winery in WWV. Yvonne Davis is the tasting room manager. Purchased in 2016 by Crimson Wine Company. Winemaker Bobby Richards is the Washington Organization Winemaker (WOW), overseeing both Seven Hills and Double Canyon.

Yvonne Davis, Seven Hills Winery

Seven Hills Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A little bit of everything adds up to a complete and straightforward package of sauvignon blanc that’s as crisp and sapid as it is predicated on fruit. Clean and tidy, ideal as correct would be from and for a desert climate. Chill well is the operative phrase to make this stand out and satisfy. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Rosé 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A Rosé of cabernet franc splashed by malbec and petit verdot for what is about as much clean flavour to come from the combined grapes and this valley as you are ever going to find. Currants and tart cherries, sweet Genovese basil and just a perfect crabapple. This is spot on Rosé with red citrus running through even vein and artery of a wine of pulchritude and toothsome bite. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The word on merlot perpetuates because you know the mention in “that movie” and while many characters in Walla Walla make mention of it, well frankly merlot is terrific in this AVA. Especially when it’s made with the fruit-centric, spice cupboard and graceful restraint as it is by Seven Hills. Do you even notice the wood? Not nearly or so much and everything about the grape, including its smooth state of being and gracious personality are captured, in fact doubly so from the warm and dry vintage. Don’t drink f-in merlot you say? Drink this you ignorant perpetuator of stereotypes. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Merlot Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2018, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Rock star vintage. Someone up above or below gave you great grapes and said don’t mess it up. Gotta say that the pedigree established by Casey McLelland down through all the winemakers and team at Seven Hills have figured out how to do much more than not screw up. Forget about the name of the variety for a while, close you eyes and taste this wine. Plush and ripe, all those dusty and chalky elements shaken, not stirred and emulsified like few other. Now concentrate and exult the name, say it aloud and tell the world. Seven Hills knows and does merlot. Really darn well. Bloody ‘ell this is delicious. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Owned by the Crimson Wine Company, along with Seven Hills Winery, winemaking overseen by Bobby Richards. Blends fruit from two appellations, Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills for a truly two-toned cabernet sauvignon as fruity as it is sweetly herbal. Cassis and Amaro, balsamic and caramelized fennel, flavour compounds running amok, hither and thither. Nothing black fruit thickness and wood make-up about it here – just fruit, great acid, haute grip and medium bodied goodness. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Double Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Back in 2018 just two years after this brand became part of the Seven Hills world there was only HHH fruit from the hills where wild horses did once upon a time run free, including through the vineyards. Important and quintessential vintage for this part of the Columbia Valley’s reds, well pretty much anywhere in eastern Washington. Cassis still persists, as do sweet herbals and savoury elements, less brushy than Walla Walla, now silkened and smooth. Grip has dissipated and the cabernet might still show a bit of chalky tannin but it is drinking right in the heart of its window. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Pentad 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

For Seven Hills all rules and roads lead to Pentade, “the sum of five,” narrowed down from six, carmenère included in 2020, not cabernet franc. Always cabernet sauvignon dominant, label designed by Ian Boyden, paint made holistically from minerals, alloys and metals. Grace under pressure, richness without rush, no hesitation and confidence throughout. Important and audited acids, fruit auditioning for tannin that controls but like a parent for all the nurturing reasons. Noteworthy for its stage presence and deft abilities to impress without ego. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Founding Vineyard 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Signature varietal wine, for all it’s meant to be and for reasons that matter in every profound way. Not quite as rich and fortified as Pentad but equally grippy and of fine karst to bone structure, both by bright acids and trenchant tannins. Cassis reduced and herbs sweetened like no other wine in the portfolio. Top vintage for this wine. Truly. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Walla Walla Valley AVA

The “distribution” cabernet sauvignon, as opposed to the high-end signature Seven Hills Founding Vineyard iteration, here a year younger and from a more challenging vineyard. Makes for high caste aromatics if neither the concentration, acumen or confidence of the SHFV. Teaching varietal wine, epitomizing vineyard fruit, health and estate style. Everything that cabernet sauvignon should and shall be for SHW and why decisions have been made for these positive consequences to follow. Proper and satisfying. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

House of Smith

Charles Smith grew up in Sacramento, one of 6 children. Went to Copenhagen with his girlfriend, booked and managed bands, most notably The Breeders of Denmark. Moved to Bainbridge Island, opened a bottle shop. Came to Walla Walla and he met the OG winemakers, borrowed equipment and was gifted some grapes. K Vintners K Syrah was born in 1999, 230 cases, was given a 250,000 loan form the bank, House wine with Costco was created and sold two years later to Precept wines. Then the came Charles Smith wines, five labels including Kung Fu Girl, 10 years went past, sold to Constellation Brands for 124 million dollars, name was changed to House of Smith and the rest is history.

Substance Sauvignon Blanc Sb 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Just 10 per cent barrel fermented seems insignificant when you consider the amount of tropical fruit ripeness on this sauvignon blanc. Fresh and clean, zesty and though that fruit is healthy and luxe, the wine is also linear. The right stuff people. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Chardonnay Ch 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

Minor yet significant barrel addendum for what is again seriously ripe Columbia Valley fruit making for almost indiscriminately edible chardonnay you can’t help but ruminate and chew. Fulsome, light butterscotch and an unexpected salve dissolve upon then palate. Natural feel. What’s happening here? Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Moxee 2019, Washington State

Moxee is the name of the vineyard, a high elevation site in the Columbia, near to the Yakima Valley. the Charles Smith team is looking for acids and mineral, less butter and essentially a Burgundian feel. Nine months in concrete and nine more in 20 percent new wood. Barrel reduction as flint but also minor sulphide yet to integrate or blow off, some butterscotch but the elements and minerals do well to harmonize acids sweet enough to mimic and carry the fruit. Good intentions but 18 months of elévage can’t help but hide site more than it should. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Frenchman Hills 2019, Washington State

Right next to Stoneridge Vineyard at 1,650 feet of elevation, cooler, frost free, nine months in concrete and a further nine months in 21 percent wood. Yes Sixto is a reference to Sixto Rodriguez who was lost to the world on August 8th. A story of renewal, second chances and regeneration, a.k.a. vines planted back in the 1970s by Château Ste. Michelle, abandoned and resurrected by Charles Smith. More than technically old vines, much higher acid than the Moxee, still rich of vintage fruit but this one bites, piques and attacks with white peppery jolts. This is an exciting wine to drink while watching Searching for Sugarman. Serious quality in old vines chardonnay. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Rosa Hills 2019, Washington State

Sees the most French wood after nine months in concrete and so expect more butterscotch and golden pineapple, compounded as a result of lower elevation in the Yakima Valley. No doubt the most complete and developed of the three single site chards, no apologies and in Rosa’s case none necessary because varietal nirvana in the style is acceded. “In the sun, in the sun, Mary.” Driving chardonnay, rising slowly, incrementally, resinous and substantial. Weightier, bass drum and line, droning in the end. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Pinot Noir Pn 2021, Washington State

Of 200 acres planted nine years ago the intention was to make a single block pinot. Syrah makers were in charge and so the learning curve was heavy and long. Seven years later this entry level pinot noir brings ripeness, that much is clear but also vanilla-lavender ubiquity. The use of Evergreen Vineyard fruit does bring extra pop and oomph because syrupy savour and vinous character needs some infiltrate lift. Works fine if with noted make-up and overworking involved. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

CasaSmith Sangiovese Cinghiale 2021, Wahluke Slope AVA

In 2013 Charles Smith began working with North Ridge Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA where barbera and primitivo are also planted and they too came with the contract. Rosebud Vineyard (88 percent), and (12) Wahluke Slope. Eight months of neutral oak, Vino de Tavola style and concept, fresh, crunchy, “scorreviole,” as it must be. Fine work, representative of northern exposure, glug-glug, really respectful and well made. Shocked that it comes away away at 15 percent alcohol. No heat, so bravo to the team. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Cs 2021, Columbia Valley AVA

Pulled from nine different vineyards and this is House of Smith’s wine that keeps the light on. Hums and grooves like a 1970s vibe, Marc Boland’s T-Rex to be exact. Some sweetness and also volatility but both are the kind that make a consumer feel like they are tasting something complex and upscale when really what’s in the bottle is a $14 Costco wine. No matter because it’s Neo-varietal cabernet sauvignon that the masses should choose above critters and California reds with 24 grams of residual sugar. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

K Vintners The Creator 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A three pound bottle. Why? “Charles wanted to make a statement.” He also wanted to make something new from the state of Washington, not that cabernet-syrah has never been done, “but not to the extent that this team set out to do. From Powerline Vineyard in the Walla Walla, cabernet sauvignon at 73 percent with (27) syrah and the fine thing about this blend of moderate (13.5 percent) alcohol is finesse and powerful restraint, a Killers wine that “doesn’t look a thing like Jesus.” There’s only one creator and Charles Smith is not they, but this wine so reminds of classic Western Cape Blends where the most ancient geology gifts this earthy, reductive and savoury character. This is a very good red blend in spite of the sustainably egregious heavy bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines

Non-profit offering financial support for vineyard workers. Everything is donated, including the grapes. Ashley Trout is the founder, winemaker at Brook and Bull. All tasting room staff are volunteers so thank you to Renée and Thomas for donating their time and knowledge.

Vital Wines Rosé Valdemar Estate Seven Hills Vineyard 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Made with grapes grown and also winemaking donated by Valdemar Estate, of 80 percent mourvèdre and (20) syrah. Lots of spice here, candied aromatics too, not a shock considering the dominant grape and the tart fruit gains your immediate and keeps attention. Tastes like Rioja Rosado, oddly enough. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Given 2019, Columbia Valley AVA

Four-part Rhône-ish blend, based on 60 percent syrah with (25) grenache, (13) mourvèdre and (2) cinsault. The blend changes every year and so the donations are also in flux. Major spice, a cupboard full dominates the aromas, namely cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, all dusty and soaking in balsamic. Sensing American oak as if Rioja in style though the grapes all harken the Rhône. Chock full of flavour and relatively easy drinking with fruit both dark and floral. Whatever tannins were involved have fallen away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Syrah 2020, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Fruit is donated from The Rocks District in the southern Walla Walla AVA, basaltic cobbles that do syrah like no other terroir on earth. It’s really true that only The Rocks scents syrah like this, meaty and Rotundun peppery but also a speciality of flowers that simply do not come from anywhere else. A varietal-place sensation like sangiovese from Lamole in Chianti Classico, a perfume that is the place. “What can I get you?” Syrah on the Rocks, please.” Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Made with fruit donated out of the Red Mountain AVA and there is no real shock to feel the warmth, thickened stew consistency and shaken texture. Full, oaky and designed for those who like it big and unctuous with just a bit of sweetness in their cabernet sauvignon. Very much southern Washington in style, chock full of flavour if not the most finessed iteration off of Red Mountain. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Vital Wines The Visionary 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Bordeaux blend from grapes donated out of the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard farmed by Seven Hills Winery, among others. Led by 60 percent merlot, with (27) cabernet franc, (12) petit verdot and a splash of cabernet sauvignon. First vintage with the proceeds going toward eye exams and glasses for vineyard workers who are unable to afford them. Quite the aromatic and also classic Walla Walla blend, thick, viscous and buoyed by pretty impressive acidity. Coffee, dark berries, lavender, graphite, dustiness, balsamic and a merlot-ness that is truly AVA dictated. Well made considering the grapes donated are always in flux and most of the wines are a first kick at the can kind of experience. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rotie Rocks Vineyard

Rôtie Cellars

Sean Boyd moved here in 2003, started the Rotie Rocks Estate winery in 2007, with no distribution. Only selling from the cellar door and in Seattle. Originally a geologist working in oil and gas, from Tacoma. Was the winemaker at Waters, fell in love with the Rocks District in Milton-Freewater at the confluence of Washington and Oregon. Property had been devoted to red delicious apples which were subsequently ripped up and planted to Rhône varieties, modelled after Beaucastel. Six square (5.9) mile sub-AVA and essentially the only American AVA with just one soil type. Each year a new vintage of the Northern and Southern red and white blends are released, one a “rounded trifecta” of grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre, the other a play on that other threesome, viognier, marsanne and roussane.

The Rocks (District) at Milton-Freewater

Rôtie Cellars Southern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Half viognier with (30) roussanne and (20) marsanne, more than estate vineyards with some Blue Mountain foothill area viognier and roussanne coming in form that cooler clime. Partially barrel-fermented, minty cool, green eggs and ham fantasy, essentially dry so if there is a gram, that sweetness does little to effect the blend. Sapid white, neither tropical nor searing but somewhere comfortably in between. The barrel ferment on the viognier does induce longan fruit with a douse of marsanne lime that extends the flavours over a good length of time. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Southern Blend 2022, Washington State

A take on southern Rhône G-S-M with acid addendum and zest from cinsault. Somewhere in the vicinity of 60 percent Rocks District fruit with the remainder coming from the gorge that separates Washington from Oregon. The vineyard is literally on the river’s edge. A good portion is put into concrete (large cube) fermentation for 25 days, followed by neutral wood. That grip just has to be The Rocks but also a rush or whoosh of flavour that seems so very Gorge relatable. Curious metal motion mineral country twang, somewhat of a Chris Stapleton meets Lucinda Williams punchy anxiety that can’t help but grip the palate. Meaty, charred nightshade finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2022, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

The Côte Rotie mimic with five percent Viognier co-fermented with two different clones of syrah. Sees 15 percent French oak and is really the only Rôtie wine that sees some new wood. Agriculturally speaking it is the method of goblet head-training that makes for more efficient use of sap flow while fruit at 24 inches above the ground concentrates power. Also with winter help by “stoning up” from the basalt is The Rocks’ version of burying canes. Here a cobblestone cause and effect, of iodine, potassium and uranium, three pillars of these rocks that deliver wet stone, struck flint and balsatic tapenade. That crusty black olive sensation doubles down on aromatics and then the palate with shocks to the system like jumping across power lines in fits of sparking light. Impressive work here. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Rosé 2022, Washington State

Namely syrah with (15 percent) mourvèdre but the free run can’t come from more than an hour of skin contact because this is pale as it gets Rosé for syrah. Nearly vin gris, salty as F and purposed grown but also that acidity with the mourvèdre coming from The Gorge. Another sku is made with grenache called Stonewall Rosé that supports LGBTQ programs. Whistle as you sip this back because it delivers a one-two coordinated cool savour-grip punch. You can age this. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Northern White 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Apposite to the Rhône with 60 percent roussanne and (40) marsanne, all about yellow flowers and texture, lemongrass sabayon and basaltic saltiness. This speaks as much about Etna Bianco in terms of volcanic saltiness as it does Rhône varieties so c’mon – this is all about The Rocks, right? This is the launching point for the whites of this place, even while syrah, grenache and mourvèdre are the true signatures. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Big G Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard 2020, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Oregon

Just the second vintage of the grenache from the Olives Vineyard back away from the Rocks district, just recently planted in 2015 now coming into play, likely real soon to be what will be talked about as “into it’s own.” Concrete ferment and used puncheons, unadorned, red fruit high caste and naked as the day a grape is born. Crystal clear transparency, and while many would wonder what drives this crystalline wine, the fact is concentration and power, not to mention depth are all in play. Don’t be fooled, this is indeed a glass of raw meat and red flowers. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Dre 2020, Columbia Valley AVA

From the benches or “cliffs” of Wallula Vineyard, depending on who you talk to, of naturally formed terraces with elevation changes along and above the river’s gorge. The Boomerang Block produces mourvèdre and it is a seriously dramatic place. Doctor my eyes this Dre is somewhere between America’s premier (male) singer songwriter and the OG Hip Hop man, from both of which there are no artists not influenced by one or the other. Exaggerations are key to making sure people understand the uniqueness and potential of future iterations of a varietal wine that one day may just blow your mind. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Bubbly Rosé 2021, Washington State

Not from any particular AVA, “just for fun, don’t overthink it.” Traditional method has been done here but this is forced carbonation (as in Charmat) method, all about the peaches and herb. Peach iced tea and just bloody delicious juice. That’s all folks. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Rôtie Cellars Grenache Blanc 2021, Washington State

From the Olson Vineyard owned by Prosser in the Yakima Valley, also pulled by Gramercy. Made in a sharp, high acid, zesty lemon and lime style. Fresh, extremely refreshing that turns a bit tropical with weight at the finish. Apricots and nectarines after that zesty citrus. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Winemaker Kate Derby, Spring Valley Vineyard

Spring Valley Vineyard

Washington State is rife with winerys and locations as unique to one another as anywhere in the world but Springfield Valley Vineyard is a universe unto itself. It may be Walla Walla Valley but the drive in and out is akin to riding shotgun in the Rover tumbling over and through a lunar landscape. The winery and vineyards are an oasis on the bright side of the moon and a harvest party setting next to the massive weeping willow is something to experience. Winemaker Kate “Crushinit” Derby is the granddaughter of Spring Valley Vineyard owners Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby and great-great-granddaughter of Spring Valley founder Uriah Corkrum. In 1993, Shari and Dean Derby planted the first grapes at Spring Valley and their first vintage was 1999. Derby works closely with Serge Laville and Carlos, longtime ranch manager. In the summer of 2007, 66 acres of new vineyards were planted. Today, Spring Valley Vineyard consists of 111 acres of grapevines including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, and malbec.

With Carlos and Kate at Spring Valley

Spring Valley Vineyard Viognier 2022, Walla Walla Valley AVA

A short stay in barrel lends a lees creaminess to what is ostensibly true mineral stage presence for a viognier essentially borne out of a veritable oasis in the midst of a grand desert. Healthy alcohol just under 14 percent that integrates and balances within the overall master plan filled with fruit, salinity, fresh flowers, sapidity, botanical tonic and gentle bitters. A subtly exotic beauty, understated and if viognier could be expressive of humility then this by Kate Derby and team is just that. A joy to be around. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Frederick Red Wine 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Ode to Frederick Corkrum born in Spring Valley in 1900 to Katherine and Uriah. Classic Bordeaux blend and traditional (SVV) styling based on cabernet sauvignon with merlot and cabernet franc, aged for up to 30 months in barriques, stainless steel and neutral 500L puncheons. Notably warm growing season results in a mature, gently oxidative, well-seasoned and fully reasoned red as nurturing and easy to sip as it is polished, calming, non-plussed and refined. Always the tobacco and dry-brushy native plants mixed with dark fruit and a local savoir-faire that is unmistakable. Gentle giant of a red blend clearly made by this undulating corner of the Walla Walla Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Spring Valley Vineyard Katherine Corkrum 2017, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Varietal cabernet franc, 100 percent, named in honour of Katherine Corkrum, wife to Uriah, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897. She and Uriah had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum. Current winemaker Kate Derby is current generation Katherine and there’s just this feeling that KD and CF share an affinity for one another. The silken quality of both the fruit and tannins align to keep this 2017 living, breathing and gifting no matter the maturity or advanced nature of its present state. Acidity was and still persists as a catalyst to lift and carry the notions of Walla Walla, but more importantly the varietal Spring Valley Vineyard site. This is cabernet franc that tells you to slow down, smell the roses and sip without any rush at all. Make this glass and that bottle last. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Brooke and Justin Neufeld

Yakima Valley

JB Neufeld

J and B, Justin and Brooke, partners who produced their first vintage in 2008. The Yakima Valley is the state’s oldest AVA and says Justin, “in my opinion the most diverse terroir.” Especially for cabernet sauvignon and “by focusing on one variety is forces me to concentrate on the nuances of sites.” For Neufeld this means the Rattlesnake Hills and the upper valley.

JB Neufeld Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Straight away and without any doubt Justin Neufeld’s is bloody delicious sauvignon blanc. Aromatic enough, hopping on the palate, creamy mouthfeel yet sharp and clearly optimum of ripeness. Harmonic and long, fresh, clean and a finale with a lovely sweet herbal push. Impressive for grape and state. The 2020 was the first (at 250 cases) and 2022 is the third vintage, of 600 cases. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

“I want the Yakima Valley cabernet sauvignon to be a gateway wine,” explains Justin Neufeld. “A solid introduction to our style and friendly to many palates.” Here he makes use of lots of upper valley fruit for a variegated aromatic representation of the entirety of the Yakima. Some merlot here to help soften the overall expression and temper cabernet’s inherent austerity. Getting roasted nightshades in eggplant and red pepper, a lighter or subtle Cassis aspect, richness without thickening and luxury though never density. Truly proper Yakima Valley and by extrapolate extension, Washington State cabernet. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval 2020, Red Mountain AVA

A wine that is evolving into a blend with increased amounts of merlot and petit verdot because Red Mountain’s cabernet sauvignon is more austere and gritty than that of the upper Yakima Valley. Then again it’s all about Justin Neufeld’s “feel” in any given year. Classic Red Mountain and clearly JB’s biggest wine, especially on the palate where structure and specifically tannins come in thick waves, more balancing Kelvin than monster rogue. The chalkiness is indeed of an unctuous type and the approach here is spot on, maximizing fruit without barrel or aggressiveness getting in the way. No faults, nor VA nor Brett neither, no distraction or misguided orientation. Some native ferment involved but not in any early inducing secondary or tertiary potential. This is piloted cabernet sauvignon, make no mistake, insured and respectful, harmonic and solid. The backing vocals are very important, reminiscent of the Rolling Stones if more Bernard Fowler than Mary Clayton, which puts Ciel Du Cheval in less raw, more contemporary cabernet sauvignon times. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023.

JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes Vineyard 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

From Justin and Brooke Neufeld who first bottled their cabernet sauvignon in 2008. “In my opinion the Yakima is the state’s most diverse terroir,” explains Justin. “By focusing on one variety it forces me to concentrate on the nuances of the sites here in Rattlesnake Hills and the Upper Valley.” A cooler clime for a less granular if also reduced austerity as compared to what comes from Red Mountain. Here the ridges run east to west and Two Blondes is as cool a site as there is the Upper Valley where the cataclysmic glacial lake outburst Missoula Floods peaked at 1,200 feet. Early concrete raising for a cabernet of place above all else, conspicuously aromatic with a whole helluva lot of things (and love) going on. Famously and indelibly connected to the winemakers who created it. A cerebral cab that makes you perk up, ponader and pay attention. The wood factor is quite present, the wine is so young and this feeling of delicasse, grace and repose are on the indigo horizon. Should take about three years time to get to a point of heartsease and another three to gain serenity. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

JB Neufeld The Old Goat 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Fruit taken entirely from Red Willow Vineyard located as far west as you can get in the Yakima Valley AVA, up against the Cascade Mountains. A true child of the rain shadow effect and compacted soils layered atop with volcanic ash originally spewed out by Mt. Saint Helens. In fact this is the only place in the state where this exists, in several layers, including material from the 1980 eruption. So much more than the (Mongolian) loess that has blown in to the east and through much of the Yakima. There is a charming aromatic set of tar, tobacco and ash notes, again those charred nightshades and here some balsamic reduction. The quality of the fruit has much to do with the combined acumen of OG grower Mike Sauer, his son Jonathan and the collaboration with MW David Lake. Their first vintage together was 1979, the year they met. This Old Goat is not “an elderly man who is disliked, especially for being mean to or disapproving of younger people,” but is in fact a big red, high in acid and of greater structure than the other Valley cabernets made by the Neufelds. The blend is 67 percent cabernet sauvignon with (33) merlot, just recently released. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates

Fourth generation, all in the Yakima Valley, now with 130 acres of grapes, 20 different varieties grown, the agriculture dating back to 1907. In 1968 the family began growing grapes, one of the first pioneer commercial wineries and the first vintage was 1971. Was purchased back for $1by Lloyd Miller who was an aviator in WWII. Marcus Miller is current generation and winemaker (with Travis since 2017).

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Pinot Gris Estate Grown 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Fresh and clean, baking soda nose, easy, herbal, pear and direct. Palate brings the stone fruit, yellow-green aromatics and pretty much essential Yakima Valley pinot gris. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

Really warm days with thankfully cool nights maintains freshness and knowable Washington acidity of a side palate up and down attack. Green herbs, gooseberry and a cut grass moment or two. Handsome, muscular yet not too taut and all in all very proper. A varietal workhorse exemplary for Yakima and Washington. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Rosé of Sangiovese 2022, Yakima Valley AVA

More than interesting use of sangiovese for a place where not too much Rosé is produced and quite aromatic at that. Red citrus, high acid cherry and pink grapefruit, some RS and plenty of fruit that indicates a full’s day run and a grape relationship with great red potential. Almost Cerasuolo in style – from elevation, cool nights and high level interest. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Merlot 2021, Yakima Valley

“A super interesting vintage and not in a good way,” tells Alexandra Lafontaine, “because it was cool in eastern Washington. But the grapes hung longer and escaped smoke-taint free.” True and yet there’s just that back palate char showing up, though the rest of the soft, nurtured and silky parts are highly credible and important to distinguish merlot for the Yakima Valley. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Lone Birch Syrah 2021, Yakima Valley AVA

Great meaty, iodine and crusted earth nose for a syrah cold soaked for 17 hours, on skins 13 days. Dual inoculation, 15 percent new wood, aged 11 months in assorted French vessels. Truly syrah with a minor amount of palate sweetness while the acids are solid and the balance well struck. Smoked meat finish with extinguished tobacco and roasted nightshade char. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates Syrah 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Clearly a step up from the Lone Birch on all fronts though not as noticeably meaty and earthy on the nose. Still a smokehouse smoulder but this falls into demure character without needing to be recognized as immediately one thing or the other. Fruit is deeper and feels more macerated though this is anything but a luxe and connected vintage. Wood also more in charge and yet not far away, meeting well with vineyard fruit (next to the famous Boucher block) and sometime next winter this will begin to drink at its best. Last tasted August 2023

Extreme ripeness of syrah being, some meatiness and that kind of iodine meets sanguine quality but mostly fruit, more fruit and then that aforementioned notion, like rare roast beef. Delicious wine with a mineral streak, not overly complex but enough to bely a creeping towards and into jammy flavours. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted June 2023

Airfield Estates Runway 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Aviator ode red blend by way of a marketing perspective in 55 percent cabernet franc and (45) merlot though the blend will change from year to year with cabernet sauvignon often in the mix. Full on new wood at 85 percent but also a month of concrete to just elevate the freshness, if ever so slightly. Holds its wood quite well which is pleasantly surprising but it’s big, luxe and bold no doubt. Good buy – true Yakima Valley. Real discovery. Will be in November Classics, though only ten cases. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted August 2023

Airfield Estates J. Lloyd Miller 2020, Yakima Valley AVA

Ode to the company’s founder in a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon with (22) merlot, (16) cabernet franc and (2) petit verdot. Signature, small production wine of 250 cases. Despite the warm vintage and obvious luxe styling there is grace, charm and lovely harmony in this wine. Sees 22 months in all new French wood, integrated beautifully and just about ready to go. Some 1968 planted vines are party of the fruit source. Silky smooth and there is absolutely no austerity or heat. No ego. It deserves to be well-rated and will surely be seriously pleasing to a discerning Bordeaux blend loving consumer. The quality is high and the winemaking prowess impressive. Coming out in a Classics release in March 2024, though only five cases. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Other wines tasted in Toronto, June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Arch Terrace 2019, Red Mountain AVA

Estate Vineyard in syrah that leans mineral and ferric like few others – in fact the elemental surge from Red Mountain soil is felt in the most thorough of palpable ways. The intensity keeps a palate mindful of place and though fruit is no slouch or second fiddle played, one can’t help but feel the earth move beneath this syrah’s feet. So bloody and a mouthful of powdery rocks. Just wow. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Terra Blanca Syrah Signature Series Block 8 2018, Red Mountain AVA

Going back another season and into Block 8 for syrah with an ulterior example that delivers a blood orange and plum fruit combination, much more so than the Estate. Acids are sharp, tang is a major factor and this really hits the high notes. Great length as well though without the hematic and ferric swirls. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Hilltop Wines Ltd. Va Piano Syrah 2019, Walla Walla Valley AVA

Serious syrah business, thick, ripe and liquid chalky. Some tart edging and also mineral intensity but fruit is explosive and seemingly unrelenting. Big-boned and structured for what should be a long life ahead with a fleshiness that will not be denied. Intensity is off the proverbial charts for a wine of this kind of stature and price. Quite impressive and nearly ready to boot. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted June 2023

Good to go!

godello

Hot red August sun in the Walla Walla Valley

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Twenty-three Canadian wines that rocked in 2023

Dec24

What makes a list? The question is like asking what makes a Martini dirty or how much VA is too much in sangiovese? There are some things in life that aren’t certain and others that are. The porcino is the king of all Italian mushrooms, just as the morel is in Ontario. This much is true. A young wild leek is best sautéed as briefly as possible in soft scrambled eggs while an older bulbous ramp should only be pickled. Chicken of the Woods mushrooms are the most striking fungi of them all and chanterelles are the only true frutto del bosco. Composing a best of list is not like these things but something other that takes time, a year’s accumulation of thought and above all else, patience. When more than 1,000 Canadian wines are tasted in a calendar year, narrowing it down to 23 feels like a weighty sense of responsibility and a profound task.

We are so far past discussing the merits or collective quality of wines produced in Canada. Canadian wines rock. They rock you like a hurricane, rock this joint and this town. They rock and roll all night, around the clock and the casbah. They are a rock and roll star, a rock and roll fantasy, old time rock and roll, a rock lobster and just a singer in a rock and roll band. Canadian wine is still rock and roll to me. Got it? This annual agglomeration gets easier to create and harder to define. In no particular order, in other words one through 23 are not systemized in any ascending or descending order. They are arranged to begin with this country’s most successful style of wine, that being sparkling, followed by riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc, red blends and Icewine. These are Godello’s 23 Canadian wines that rocked in 2023.

From the Naramata Bench

Tantalus Blanc De Blancs Traditional Method 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Truly noses as blanc de blanc made from only chardonnay, orchard fruit suspended in sparkling animation. Gingery and rightly oxidative while tightly wound, grippy and ready for anything that is to follow. Flesh from the fruit of the trees fallen in to the hand even before it was picked from the stem. Croccante, succulent, a scintillant raciness in every respect, satisfying and long. Would really like to see this again after the decade strikes ten. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

WineAlign National Awards of Canada judging in the Okanagan Valley

Hinterland Les Étoiles 2018, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Traditional Method and the archetype for making bubbles to speak on behalf of a very specific terroir whilst using estate grown Prince Edward County chardonnay and pinot noir. Hinterland is THE PEC version of Grower’s Champagne because Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras spend more time with their vines than anything else. Considering how many waters their toes dip into that says something and Les Étoiles means business. It is a serious sparkling wine, with intense flavours and the kind of backbone most fizz can only dream of hanging their flesh upon. The 2018 is precocious and wise yet the exploits of its behaviour have only just begun. So taut, so tightly wound and yet so bloody generous. Fresh and with gingery oxidative moments but ultimately in control and introspectively complex. Re-visit as often as possible for up to 10-plus years. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted March 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been beforev- well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Okanagan Valley

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Moutnain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Trail Estate Pinot Noir Sparkling (P.N.17) 2017, VQA Ontario

Here flies from the glass a sparkling gambit that has to be winemaker Mackenzie Brisbois’ most conventional wine. Just pinot noir and from an inverted vintage that gets better and better with time. A 2017 of wildly fantastical aromas and gravitas that make every aspect, component and iterated moment shine. This is a scintillant of excitation that delivers succulence we richly desire from Ontario sparkling wine. The mix of heady perfume, intensity of palate raciness and texture sliding into structure is truly something. If you are not put into an absolute tizzy and hypnotized by this fizz you may not be paying attention. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted November 2023

Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Estate

Blomidon Estate Winery Brut Blanc De Blancs 2016, Nova Scotia

A 2016 Bland de Blancs that saw 60 months on the lees. Super aromatic and expressive as if breezes were blowing through, Fundy winds with sea kelp and wet clay. Ideal phenolics in an idealized B de B that surely captures place, especially in a vintage like this, but truth is tells Simon Rafuse, “extreme climate event weather in Nova Scotia is making vintage cuvées nearly impossible.” Much of the fruit here comes from the estate block on the bay north of Port Williams, a sandy site that makes for more gentle, elegant and abiding chardonnay. Using old barrels helps to fatten and flesh up that fruit. Seems like an ideal match for the scintillant style of traditional method Nova Scotia sparkling wine. Super fun and energetic bubble. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2023

Lightfoot & Wolfville estate vines overlooking the Minas Basin

Lightfoot & Wolfville Cuvée Evelyn, Nova Scotia

Pinot Noir 85% Chardonnay 15%. If a bit too oxidative in tendency confirmed by the preserved lemon, well it also supports an ambitious style (reminiscent of top, top Cap Classique) that defines this traditional method, pinot noir controlled sparkler. Amazing toasty quality and just the right level of acid sourness to electrify and stretch in the finest nimble way while maintaining balance. Just has to be a top tier cuvée for this house. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Godello and Taylor Whelan, CedarCreek Vineyards

CedarCreek Pinot Noir Rosé Platinum South Kelowna Slopes 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As perfumed as it can ever get for Rosé with a salutary seasoning to elevate flavours up into a complex level of vinous gastronomy. Just scents like ripe pinot noir set up for food matching where plates like tamarind-glazed duck tacos, lemon thyme roasted game birds or anything spit grilled (a.k.a. al pastor) would willingly sidle alongside. Can handle a side of pickled onion, beet or turnip and also the truth. What a terrific use of Home Block and Simes vineyard pinot noir fruit, a white-like wine of protected aromatics, lees addendum, not to mention how blessed it is by a beautiful autumn that made sure Rosé could also be graced by true Okanagan phenolic ripeness. Perfect storm of a Rosé and we should all be thankful for the happenstance. Will age more than a bit as well. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted June 2023

Vineland Estates Riesling Elevation St. Urban Vineyard 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Credit know-how, track record and pedigree – all those essentials of a producer with varietal experience from THE place in this country where it all began. Yes, all this matters but step forward and know that Vineland Estates uses modern technology in both their farming and also winemaking practices in ways no one else seems to equal. So what does this mean for this archetype of an Ontario riesling? So much. St. Urban 2022 is the cleanest, freshest and most luxe yet, simply put it’s all about pinpointed accuracy, finesse and well, great science. The fruit is crisp, the acids purposed and the finish long, silent, salient and salty. This will age alongside some of the best, with noticeable phenolics in tow, making for sapid moments too. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted September 2023

Gabriel Demarco, Cave Spring Cellars

Cave Spring Riesling CSV 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

From the first 2019 CSV holds the intangible riesling cards and feels well-ripened, despite the vintage not being one of the warmer ones up on the Niagara Escarpment. Truth is CSV ’19 wears its phenolics on both sleeves as noted in the botanical resins, melon skins and stone fruit pit aromas. Already possessive of a subtle petrol kiss and acidity of a clear and present high number. Nothing dangerous mind you and the phenol-acid relationship in the wine is quite static, stoic and immovable, at least in this stage of early youth. Will mature quicker than some though the mineral quotient will always ride shotgun. CSV 2019 feels like healthy drinking. It will likely assist in averting the damage of cells resulting from free-radical oxidation reactions and also promote anti-inflammation capacity. More than riesling. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted April 2023

Tawse Riesling Carly’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Stoic, cool, gelid and reserved riesling in the vein of a cool climate though the palate richness suggests a warmer vintage. High sugar and also equally so in acid, well-balanced and bespoke where the relationship between grape and geology is ideally matched. This is extremely well made. Finish is extraordinary, with tremendous grip. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

ed. The 2007 Carly’s Block tasted in July during a visit to Redstone Winery also rocked for 2023. One of Paul Pender’s great works indeed.

Charles Baker

Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard 2019, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

Crisp and crunchy but more importantly indelibly phenolic and with all parts moving as one, in synch and so incredibly harmonic. Symphonic riesling from the fabulous Baker boy out of 2019 and with this amount of time now passed, increasingly uncovering proof that it is indeed a vintage for the ages. Texture and intensity with shots of umami are created as a result of that stamp of particular Vinemount Ridge ripeness. Drink 2023-2032. Tasted April 2023

August Chicken of the Woods

Westcott Chardonnay Block 76 2020, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario

The 2020 may be as ideal as it gets for chardonnay across most sub-appellations of Niagara and Block 76 from Westcott up on the Vinemount Ridge proves the theory in so many ways. The statuesque musculature and moment frozen in time visage is something else from a chardonnay so stoic, confident and the kind of act sure attitude that speaks to farming and winemaking cohesiveness. From Garrett Westcott to Casey Kulczyk – there are no holes in this chardonnay. The barrel is huge and yet subtle, the fruit pristine and treated to precision, finesse and at the end of the day, Westcott family love. Benchmark for vintage, ridge and estate. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted August 2023

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard Unfiltered 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Estate chardonnay is a cracker 2020 for Hidden Bench and along comes single-vineyard Felseck to crank up the volume for something off the charts. The aromatic bites and flavour washes deliver a Beamsville Bench wall of varietal sound. This is driven, single-vineyard minded and stubborn chardonnay to put symphonies of sound in our heads. Like massed pianos, guitars and string arrangements from which pervasive aromatic perfume and transonic flavour intensity collect to personify cool climate Bench chardonnay. The farmer, maker and proprietor may not be the fruit themsleves, but Felseck 2020 is most definitely their wine. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Not just the next vintage of the Senchuk homefront chardonnay but potentially one that will be talked about for a decade in retrospective tastings and longer. Whether or not a bottle is present, the reverberations will percolate through the ages. Not just a matter of varietal stuffing created by soils rich in clay and alluvial alloy in which stones feel pulverized into the textural fabric of this wine. You can chew this like taffy and feel the juices run as it liquifies and spreads across the palate. Hovering acidity keeps all the fruit covered, then lifted and placed just where you want this cleanest and purest of Lincoln Lakeshore fruit to be. We are all impressed and those who are not should be mystified due to reasons misunderstood. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted July 2023

Chardonnays of i4C 2023

Rosehall Run St. Cindy Chardonnay 2020, VQA Prince Edward County

The ode goes to Cindy Zwicker Reston, Rosehall Run co-founder and the honour is more about good deeds and love than it is just about name. St. Cindy is no small gift of a label and the good thing is Dan Sullivan’s work puts the saint in the Cindy. Few Prince Edward Country chardonnays were able to avoid ripening, softening, elevated alcohol and loss of tension but double R’s Cindy is the balanced one. Yes it is ripe and also rich but even more important is the pitch perfect seasoning, grip retention and finest moments where extract and tannin collide. This is really, really good chardonnay. The kind of stuff taught in chardonnay winemaking school but riffed upon in the real world. What else needs to be said? Drink 2023-2026. Tasted March 2023

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Vintage number three from Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and now more specific by way of a split, with the Frontier Block as the plot within the larger plot, along with that of Red Clay Barn. Drilling down into this historical vineyard that has risen as fast as any New World terroir, just about anywhere these sorts of things are measured. Here named for the final frontier, that being the “last terroir” in Niagara and who knows, maybe it will soon be the first rolling off of everyone’s lips. GHV-FB 2021 is a force, that much is clear from the first look. Or nose, for what matters. Cool and stony style from a wide open space where limestone, shale and gravels conspire to create something new and with absolute potential. It’s already arrived thank you very much and while words like luxe and opulent do not come to the tip, others like succulent and scintillating do. Just something so real and right at your doorstep, vivid beyond chardonnay compare, a stealth fish swimming in clear waters. Truly complex for chardonnay and it must be noted, unlike any other in the world though at the same time feeling like something you’ve known your whole life. Make an exception to delve into this exception because when it comes to chardonnay, this is what we need. Remarkable clarity and distinction, precision extraordinaire and a wine to cast nets far and wide to secure as many bottles that could be found. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted December 2023

Ramps of 2023

Stanners Pinot Noir The Narrow Rows 2020, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Warmest of vintages and yet as only pinot noir (especially from PEC) is want and capable of doing there is no dramatic rise in alcohol. Conversions will be conversions and they are almost always magical as it pertains to the County. The specificity of the Narrow Rows elicits a varietal human response like few, if no others out of the County and that means love. The wave of fruit effortlessly tumbling into sweet acidity and structure fitting like a glove makes all parts happy, singing and generous. They do their work with chivalry, philanthropy and love. The vintage is a conundrum for PEC reds but the Narrow Rows and subsequent actions will be judged as right in the future, in part because of the block and in part because the Stanners team abides by what this pinot noir needs to be. A top pinot for 2020 Prince Edward County. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2023

Judges of the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada

Privato Tesoro Pinot Noir Woodward Collection 2020, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Inviting, sexy and rising in high spirit, song sung hitting the high notes and a pinot noir that rocks from the first. The perfume is just so very brushy hillside or escarpment and perhaps a bit northerly in location. Crunchy and succulent, judiciously oaked and spiced. mid to more than that in weight, impressive concentration without density and length – such never-ending length. This is the right pinot for the people. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Thomas Bachelder

Bachelder Old Eastern Block Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench, Ontario

For Lowrey Vineyard go east young man, the east is the best – or at least east is oldest, planted in 1984 by the family for the legend Karl Kaiser. The lineage of alliances runs from Kaiser at Inniskillin with Jaffelin (now Rémoissenet), through Le Clos Jordanne and Bachelder forays into Oregon. Today the eastern block of old vines have passed their 35 year mark which means they are truly heritage, not only for Niagara but for anywhere in the world. A glacial heritage too, with limestone being a determining factor to make pinot like this seem soil-driven, mineral-bent and shaped by millennium. Bachleder’s job is to not fuck it up and though he never does, for 2021 he finds another gear. One that is measured and paced for pinot noir – which is exactly what it needs and wants. The sweetness and purity of both fruit and acidity is seamlessly braided to spin a wine that will surely be timeless. Truly special and deserving of much love so give it. Success? Did it come out? All his wines come out. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted December 2023

The first Morel of 2023

Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc Wild Cask 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Full and splendid varietal expression with such a distinctly captured frank-ness in concentration that really sets the Bench on fire. All the fruit imaginable with help from ant ideal growing season and then the salt and pepper seasoning that sees wood do what’s right and also necessary. The linearity and even-keeled notions of this Thirty Bench are just so measured, persistent and incremental. Will age gracefully over 10 years time. Last tasted April 2023

If at first this may seem like middle road taken for grape and vintage, of medium specs all the way through, keep coming back to this wine. From fruit through acidity and into tannin there is harmony, seamlessly woven and without falter. Good pH balance connectivity to structure so that the cabernet franc doles in sapidity as much as anything else. Right amount of chalkiness and a temperament that is really quite fine. No mind that oak persists as a factor just on the right side of heavy for now. Should show beautifully in another year’s time and with (Bench) distinction for many years to follow. Equal parts salty and sapid is always great combination. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind with the Experts’ Panel, April 2023

Stratus White Label Red 2020, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The blend for Red is always vintage dependant but can’t say there is any shock to see cabernet sauvignon art 40 percent taking the 2020 lead. Next there is cabernet franc (27), followed by merlot and malbec (13 each) and finally petit verdot (7). Six weeks of picking between the merlot and the cabernet sauvignon with specs in the end right on par with that (latter) varietal wine. Meaning magnanimous, ambitiously structured and of a potential to see the 2020, 20th anniversary Red as becoming one for the Stratus ages. Certainly more juiciness and also fun (and pleasure) but make no mistake. These tannins bite back, the wood is far from integrated and years will be required to see this make good on its promise. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2023

Peller Estates Riesling Icewine Andrew Peller Signature Series 2019, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Densely concentrated and from the beginning an impressive balance in accord between sugars and acids so that the two move swimmingly along from the start through to a long lingering finish. One sip and the Icewine becomes one with your palate, hangs on, repeats upon itself and as far as that kind of attraction is concerned you welcome the linger. Special dedication and technique here to be sure. 179 gL RS and 10.5 percent abv. Last tasted January 2023

Good to go!

godello

Twitter: @mgodello

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Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2021

L’Etna and Parco Statella saved my Sicilian quarantine

Aug31

Quarantine Passegiata

A few weeks back I experienced humanity in the vacuum of a chat with a man as proficient a listener as he is eloquent as a speaker. As for his writing prowess well, any words I can conjure only drift in mimic of what rhythms his melodies play. I am of course talking about Andrew C. Jefford. I recited my Covid story to the British born, France habituating composer about my quarantine up aboard the northern slopes of L’Etna and in kind he tuned in with great intent. The next day, after clearly having further considered my experience, the writer encouraged my going public with a recounting of the tale.

Parco Statella by night

Working through a bout of Covid-19 has been for each of us a personally possessive experience. We had all spent months and for some the better part of two years assimilating information, growing concern and formulating speculation as to what would happen when we contracted the virus. We also wondered how we might affect others. My turn involved only a few close connections, first my fostering and nurturing Sicilian hosts and chaperones at Planeta Winery. Then, aboard the mountain, the gracious and obliging staff at Shalai in Lingualossa. And finally the man so effing effable that is winemaker Giuseppe Russo. Sorry for the viral transfer Giuseppe.

Il Guercio

Let us back track for just a couple of paragraph’s moment. Travelling companion, beautiful friend, articulate writer and persuasive speaker Michaela Morris and I are having lunch with Il Guercio, the one and the only Sean O’Callaghan at Osteria Le Panzanelle in Lucarelli, Radda in Chianti. It’s the first truly warm day of March and so Nada Michelassi creates a table for us on the terrace. Sean hails from the U.K. and is asked to peek indoors on a distinguished and clearly famous solo British diner but he returns after not immediately recognizing the man. A moment later, as if having silently swept in like an apparition, he’s standing over our table. “May I join you?” he inquires, a chair is pulled up, a glass of Tenuta di Carleone is poured and introductions are made.

Sean O’Callaghan, Jeremy King, Michaela Morris and Godello

He is Jeremy King, London’s most famous restauranteur and we are treated to a story of his 44 million euro court predicament with investors. Sean takes a bite of Tagliata and he is suddenly choking, up desperately and stumbling over the stones, grabbing at his throat, liquids evacuating wherever they can find an outlet, terrified face turning blue. Still seated, legs crossed and calm as a hindu cow, Mr. King asks, “would you like me to do the Heimlich maneuver on you?” Sean shakes his head up and down hard, the towery King gets behind him and with one hoomph! the steak is dislodged and expectorating details aside, Sean falls back into his chair in heaving breaths. He’s fine. Saved. Left to live another day and enjoy another plate of Tagliata. King is back in his chair, story immediately in resume. Four days later I’m in Catania testing positive, alerting Michaela and Sean who in turn, both test positive with 24 hours. Coincidence? Perhaps. Fair trade? Absolutely. Like it or not Michaela Morris, Sean O’Callaghan, Nada Michelassi and Jeremy King, we are all inextricably linked for the duration of our times.

It was the Tagliata

Which brings us to Sicilia and more specifically, L’Etna. My adventures with the candid and talented Patricia Tóth are visually chronicled and well documented in my previous article. After testing positive in Catania the winemaker picked up the necessary provisions of sustenance and medication then drove back up the mountain to the volcano’s northern slope. There at Parco Statella I passed my isolation for 11 days, albeit in one of the universe’s most spectacular, spiritual and enlightening locations. A few days of feeling quite unwell beget short walks and then full on treks through the forests and vineyards of this edenic playground. Friends were made and relationships forged with three sheep. two horses, a donkey and several sweet dogs. I ambled through the landscape in a Covid fog as easily as children might slip into their weariness like the soothing water of a warm bath. The effort of subterfuge was no match for Parco Statella’s beauty.

Verdant Parco Statella

Only came outside to watch the nightfall with the rain. I heard you making patterns rhyme

As the symptoms waned and the sun continued to warm Versante Nord there arrived, a case at a time, the wines of Etna producers, first Planeta and Donnafugata, followed by a stream of others. I began to taste and write in earnest, soaking up the innate imperfections and precise perfections of Etna Bianco, Rosso and variations on the parochial theme. Then there was the care provided by Manuela Scala, a plate of provisions here, a sublime slice of cake there. These gestures nourished some withered essential part of myself as I sat on the weathered wrought iron chairs at the table in Parco Statella’s piazzetta. I would fall gratefully on a perfect slice of cake, on this human gesture of connection and to know fortune smiles upon us. On the morning of my departure a caffé in Manuela’s presence made cause for true emotion and then, with the wind circling L’Etna and over the stones of the courtyard I was gone.

Una fetta d’amore

In the Planeta article I detailed the wines of Menfi-Ulmo, L’Etna, Noto, Vittoria and Capo Milazzo. Please click on the link to that post (above) to review those 45 wines. Here are 55 more tasting notes from Girolamo Russo, Emiliano Falsini, Donnafugata, Graci, Calcagno, Scirto, Eduardo Torres, Tascante, Vigneti Vecchio and Azienda Agricola Sofia. The wines on L’Etna that helped saved my quarantine.

With Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo

Giuseppe Russo’s Etna Bianco honours his mother Nerina. Made from younger plants, including some planted three or four years old, but only carricante. That said Giuseppe will likely also plant some more grecanico in the San Lorenzo Vineyard because he likes the linearity and verticality it gives to the carricante. The Nerina is a startling and invigorating Bianco, as fresh, available and precocious as any on Versante Nord, or likely anywhere on L’Etna for that matter. A seven days a week wine for which there can be no reason not to engage. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted March 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2020

From the single vineyard at 730-740m of elevation and vinified in tonneaux. The 2009 was the first vintage of San Lorenzo Bianco for a wine that leads amongst the 80-90 thousand total bottles made by Giuseppe Russo from 18 hectares. A strong selection from the plants of carricante with cattaratto and grecanico. The carricante are the oldest and they provide the breadth in the mouth, the texture in unction and the presence that really makes you feel the vineyard. The difference between it and Nerina is really in the selection of the grapes. Giuseppe wants his whites to speak for his territory, here to be a bit more generous and 2020 obliges first because it was easier and second because it is such a vintage specific to the white wines. Such beauty and emotion is purity and life. No stress and a wine you want to drink. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted March 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato DOC 2021

Only nerello mascalese partly because cappuccia has more colour but also less body, acid and tannin than mascalese. And so the mascalese is the red Rosato variety, especially in Etna’s northern sector. Yes of course this is salty Rosé but that’s a given and hardly the point. Why does Giuseppe make it? Because it’s molto versate, literally “very poured” but meaning always worthy of consumption. For food, especially in summer and at low alcohol. He also believes it can age in fact he’s tasting some older Rosato here and there as witnessed by bottles laying around. Trust when it is said that Etna Rosato is a special breed. Indeed. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted March 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2019

First made in 2005 as the initial vintage for Giuseppe Russo and from more than one vineyard, inclusive of fruit from some of the younger vines as an assemblage of micro-vinifications. In terms of maceration Giuseppe only does 15 days, nothing close to the Piedmontese ways with nebbiolo, even if he adores those wines. So much freshness, red fruit forward vintage but also a linearity because these wines always carry some of this emotion. ‘a Rina can be consumed just about when you want to but carries a sort of structure that is subdola, sneaky enough to see it go long. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted March 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2019

Many generations have been here but the story really begins with Giuseppe’s grandfather Giovanni Massimino, who planted the vineyard Feudo. Diversity of the vines is a profound part of the growing on these terraces, especially with the old vineyards, in Feudo 70-80 years old and also some as old as 100. Nerello mascalese with five per cent nerello cappuccio from a single vineyard cru and here 20 days maceration, five days longer than the on skins time for ‘a Rina. Again a vintage that Giuseppe Russo is a big fan of, rich and luxe to a great degree yet broad and deeply spiced. The depth and complexity are quite profound. First vintage was 2006 for a Rosso that needs the bottle in the ways of great grapes all over Italy. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted March 2022

Home cooking by Tóth and Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2019

Giuseppe Russo’s father purchased San Lorenzo but Girolamo never bottled and sold off all the grapes. In 2003 Girolamo passed away. Giuseppe has worked with Emiliano Falsini from Toscana since 2005 and continues through to today. The selection is mainly from the vineyard’s highest point and it is in fact the largest at Girolamo Russo, making up seven of the 18 total hectares. Such a crunchy nerello mascalese though with plants up to 100 years old there are likely some other varieties mixed in for what is ostensibly a field blend. Also volcanic chalky (if there really is such a thing) and the one that reeks but also tastes of orange, mainly blood orange. While San Lorenzo may lack the richness of Feudo it does so much in terms of finezza and this after so much perfume. Fantastic vintage. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted March 2022

Parco Statella fixer-upper

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2017

From a vintage that was very warm, like the rest of Italy and you’d not be fully paying attention were you not to notice this in the wine. You have to wonder when the fruit was picked and indeed though the alcohol was high in September it was Giuseppe Russo who waited well into October to pick his grapes. They are ripe through and through, even if the weight lays low and intensity runs high. This is by far the biggest wine of five Rosso tasted but at its height there is balance and togetherness. Brilliance in the face of adversity, covered in spice is a beautiful thing. Drink earlier than some vintages but also be surprised as to where this may go. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted March 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2018

A label that was started in 2007 and from a contrada on the perimeter of the Russo property. From a very difficult vintage and a wine completely different from both Feudo and San Lorenzo, also because the contrada is so very different. A much more lifted Etna Rosso, edgy with some volatility but the kind that you can imagine settling in with this carefully picked, selected, sorted and vinified fruit. There is a wildness about this fruit that is specific to place but also the tannins that are spicier, grippier and forceful. This one really wakes you up and keeps you on your toes. Mi sveglia! I am awake! Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2022

With a roof right over our heads

Emiliano Falsini

Feudo Pignatone Etna Rosso DOC 2020

Feudo Pignatore, from Emiano Falsini, the name of the contrada on L’Etna’s north side. A vintage a bit like 2018, difficult though not quite in the league of that challenge. Beautifully perfumed, youthful for sure and quite compact. Crunchy Rosso, red fruit in the currant and pomegranate vein, high acidity and showing its barriques though as a lithe, transparent and lifted wine it does so with great ease. Creates a cinnamon heart type spiciness and then you feel the wood on the back end. Very curious contrada Rosso. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2022

Covid penicillin

Feudo Pignatone Etna Rosso DOC Davanti Casa 2020

Feudo Pignatore, the name of the contrada on L’Etna’s north side and the small cru/single vinyeyard Rosso. This is the selection, smaller quantity from Emiliano Falsini and a whole ‘nother expression altogether, here the wood and fruit conspiring for a frutta di bosco experience but also one with toasted coconut. Barriques and tonneaux are used and because the fruit is deeper and richer there is more depth, doubled down concentration and a feeling of that wood, earlier and throughout. This will need much time and there is definitely an affinity with nebbiolo this time around. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2022

Donnafugata

Pantelleria

Donnafugata Lighea 2021, DOC Sicilia

Lighea, Sicilian for “light” is varietal zibibbo (a.k.a. muscat of Alexandria) grown on the Island of Pantelleria off the southwestern Sicilian coast. Not unexpectedly high in citrus both juiced (lemon and orange) but also floral with orange blossoms the obvious, ostensible and uncanny notation. So bright and popping, brimming with pressed acidity and waxy, spritzed, airy and vaporous of sea spray. Sun, afternoon and vacation are three words that easily come to mind. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2019, Passito Di Pantelleria DOC

Ben, as in “son of” and Ryé, a Sicilian riff on the concept of making strong mocker from the wheat grass. Think of grapes instead, in this case zibibbo (muscat of Alexandria) grown off the southwestern coast of Sicily on the Island of Pantelleria. Passito di Pantelleria DOC is one of the world’s great sweet wines, found only on this windswept promontory where the grapes concentrate, drink in the sea and express a view to which only this place commits. The warmest of vintages develops and comprises these particular sugars into something surreal. Extraordinary orange-ginger crème brûlée, perfectly embittered and made viscous in the most natural of ways. Layers of dedication and spice, health affirming herbs, respiratory fixing drops and sweetness captured, effortlessly and to gift plaisir. Apricots ripe and glazed, zen zero limone, giusto intenso. Nearly perfect. Drink 2025-2039. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Vineyards

Contessa Entellina Estate

Dolce & Gabbana Rosa Rosé 2021, DOC Sicilia

Donnafugata makes two Rosato, one from Etna and this on the northern side of the Contessa Entellina Estate. A blend of nerello mascalese and nocera, two apposite varieties, one being the Dolce and the other Gabbana. Together they combine for exotic fragrance but also sweet candied florals, cottony feels and salty streaks right on through. Healthy acids easily deal with, mitigate and assimilate whatever sugars might want to express themselves but truthfully they only come out in the aromatics, rising at dusk and bleeding into night. Can’t think of a time when this Rosato would fail to please. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

Contrada Statella

Donnafugata Anthìlia Bianco 2021, DOC Sicilia

What’s in a name? Anthilìa is the name given to the city of Entella on the top of the Rocca in Roman times. As a Bianco it is composed of the local (Contessa Entellina Estate) lucido, known in other parts of Sicily as catarratto, blended with other unnamed autochthonous and international varieties. Regardless of the bit parts there is no questioning Anthilìa’s tart, tight and citrus to mineral posit tug of Sicilian style. There is an herbal quality in sweet basil or chervil typology but lemon-lime meeting salty stones halfway is really where it’s at. Beck and call, “a place we saw, the lights turn lo. The jigsaw jazz and the get-fresh flow.” Drink 2022-2025. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Sur Sur 2021, DOC Sicilia

Sur Sur is varietal grill0 from Donnafugata’s Contessa Entellina Estate in southwestern Sicily. More lemon and less mineral as compared to Anthilìa though sunshine is at an all time high. Sur Sur as in “On On” or in Italian Su Su. Like the lights and more to the point the sun, filling and lighting up this grillo. Light up the grill and throw on some fishes, large shrimps, even a squid or three. Sur Sur will compliment, alight and walk astride. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Sherazade Nero d’Avola 2020, DOC Sicilia

Sherazade, or Scheherazade is the fictional wife of a sultan and the narrator of the tales in the Arabian Nights. The Nero d’avola is taken from western Sicily’s Contessa Entellina Estate and nearby vineyards. Mixed cultures’ spice and exotica are the aromatic potpourri this calls home and nothing else scents as this. Nothing else is also so inviting, casting its varietal line and reeling you in to inhale, sip, smile and exhale. Red wine as aperitivo, unencumbered, calming and even a little bit divine. Track three, The French Dispatch, Alexandre Desplat. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Tancredi 2017, Terre Siciliane IGT

Tancredi, that exceptional Italian name is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, local nero d’Avola, tannat and ”other grapes,” field-ish so to speak, born in Donnafugata’s place of origin, Contessa Entellina Estate. Deeper in barrel, fruit substance, time and thought. All varieties well put, organized and once in conflagration now smouldering seamlessly together. What may have been an ignited engine of brush, tar and pressed juices is still tight and intense, raging in acidity and just now emerging with local style. Plenty of savour too, a western Sicilian kind, challenging the olfactory, making a concerted request for more time. Bordeaux, Madiran and Santa Margherita di Belice mixed, matched and melded together. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Parco Statella by day

Donnafugata Mille E Una Notte 2018, Rosso Sicilia DOC

Mille E Una Notte (1001 nights), a collection of Middle Eastern folk tales compiled in Arabic during the Islamic Golden Age, a.k.a. the Arabian Nights. A Contessa Entellina Estate near Santa Margherita di Belice blend of nero d’Avola, petit verdot, syrah and in the typical Donnafugata field blend idiom, also inclusive of “other grapes.” The deepest and most profound if brooding and structured of the estate’s reds while also hauntingly familiar, succulent and beautiful. Clearly one of Sicily’s most age-worthy red wines, reeking of roses and steaming in highlands acidities. To say tasting 2018 this early in its tenure does little to open the gates of knowledge or pleasure would be a vast understatement but these many nights hint at hidden treasure, meaning and the aforementioned beauty. A serious wine with endless time laid out ahead. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted April 2022

L’Etna

Donnafugata Sul Vulcano 2019, Etna Rosso DOC

The Rosso from L’Etna’s northern slope near Montelaguardia is essentially nerello mascalese though there is a small percentage of cappuccio involved. From vineyards adjacent the stunning Parco Statella to the east of the village of Passopisciaro. Alberello-trained vines mix with volcanic rock terraces, grazing sheep and the wild ferla. Really quite precise varietal, location and lava coming together in a Rosso that exhibits the limit of Etna’s volcanic savour. Really brushy and herbal, fruit singing a ripe acid song, slinging arrows of basaltic intensity, creating a true to form and peace experience. A broad brushstroke of Etna Nord and yet one with vim, victory and relish. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Sul Vulcano 2019, Etna Bianco DOC

Sul Vulcano, below L’Etna on the north slope, 100 per cent estate grown carricante adjacent the Parco Statella in Montelaguardia. Classic varietal profile, at once rich and then salty, volcanic soils and elevation so very present, buoyant and presenting this dramatic white wine. Richer and riper than some, vintage related and directed to be sure. Not so much croccante as much as being scorrevole for carricante, mid-palate and aromatic twin split between pomelo-mandarin and ferla-broom. Some structure here so wait a year and drink through the decade. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted April 2022

Vineyards adjacent Parco Statella

Donnafugata Fragore Contrada Montelaguardia 2019, Etna Rosso DOC

The single vineyard Fragore is an Etna Rosso out of the Montelaguardia contrada that announces itself with an ascoltami ruggire, in other words a roar. But a quietly controlled one, like a lion resting, expressing its content with the moment, using voice to engage, not warn. Take the Etna Rosso normale, improve and compress upon it multi-fold, concentrate all that savour, hillside naturalism and herbology, take things to an entirely unimaginable next level. This is the roar of Fragore, in control of emotions and sensibilities. Like a passegiata through Parco Statella on a windy Etna Spring day. An impressive vintage if just a bit barrel controlled, intimating fine chocolate and dusty espresso, needing time to integrate. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted April 2022

Vittoria

Donnafugata Floramundi 2019, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

As per the Sicilian DOCG a blend of nero d’avola and frappato grown in the southeastern sector, the latter made deeper and more profound by the former. What may be lost in sheer consumer attack-ability is gained through strength and vigour. Cerasuolo is meant to concentrate but also percolate, simmering two complimentary varieties in liquid layers, increasingly volumetric and akin to new thought music in a red blend of moods. No Donnafugata’s does not exist by dint of such pressed heights because it persists in airy, openly fragrant and flute singing tones. A best of both worlds appellative juncture is met, acquiesced and compressed. Give it time or simply air to enjoy. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted April 2022

Donnafugata Bell’Assai 2020, Vittoria DOC Frappato

Pure frappato from southeastern Sicily, fragrant and perfumed to the proverbial hilt and so bloody inviting. The freshest of summer strawberries, violets at peak and if aromatics could talk they would say hello. Juicy and justifiably tart, those peppery florals candied, inclusive of pansy and nasturtium. A veritable bouncing, fanciful and buzzing throttle frappato yet so easy to sip back. Inspiring. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted April 2022

Graci

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2021

Graci’s viticultural epicentre is Contrada Arcurìa but they also grow in four other Etna north communes. The all-purpose Bianco is 85 per cent carricante with (15) catarratto harvested mid-October (on average) and raised in only stainless steel for nine months, on the lees. My how those lovely lees drive this wine, texturizing the local grapes and directing all the traffic. Rarely does an Etna Bianco recall Chablis but here is one in all glory and reminiscence. Fresh, luxe fruit round and abounding, mild yogurt to crème frâiche character derived by the infiltrations of those positive yeasts. Just salty enough to remind of the place in a generalized and beneficial way. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

Parco Statella friends

Graci Etna Rosato DOC 2021

Etna Rosato comes from 100 per cent mascalese and the only grapes harvested in September. Just a soft press, no skin contact maceration and ultimately a salty, easy, light and rustic rose coloured meeting flavoured mingling with texture Rosato. Just what you want to drink in the sun, anytime after 11:00 am, preferably with the volcano looming above. Or anywhere the sun might hit in your place of living. Meets the non-plussed demands of delicious and satisfying, two most important blush ideals. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2020

From Alberto Graci in Passopisciaro, with vineyards in five contrade, Feudo di Mezzo, Santo Spirito, Mugnazzi, Arcurìa and Barbabecchi. A spontaneous varietal nerello mascalese in every way, from fermentation through emotive spirit. Smells like L’Etna by way of 18 months spent in grandi botti (tini), fruit skin musky, salumi curative and mint-scented without being minty. Fine acid crunch and fruit persistence, intensity yet in control, driven and determined. Clearly top echelon Rosso untethered to any one specific tract of contrada soil. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2020

Arcurìa is central to Graci’s farm and work, a contrada location on L’Etna’s northern slope at 600 to 700m of elevation. For Bianco only carricante is used, harvested mid-October, half in small wood and half in stainless, 12 months on lees followed by 12 in bottle. As a cool and windy place it refreshes, revitalizes and breathes great air into the carricante, joining forces with the multifarious volcanic soils to instil great salinity and ariosità in the Bianco. Even though it sees longer lees aging as compared to the normale there is less frâiche and more freshness but also depth, determination and desire. Great bite, snap and acutezza. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2020

Mugnazzi is Graci’s secret weapon property, five and a half hectares in Passopiscaro, once owned by Ettore Majorana, the “brilliant and mysterious gentleman.” Three of those are planted to carricante at 700m, harvested around the same time as Arcurìa, destined to shake, rattle and roll this Etna Bianco. Takes the grape and volcano to the next level, both in mineral salinity but also luxuriousness of substantial, fleshy and concentrated fruit. The most aromatic of the bianci, orchard and even exotics mingling with sea, lava and air. There is no end or conclusion to this Mugnazzi for it is both inspiring and one to take a breath away. Very special Etna Bianco indeed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted April 2022

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2019

Arcurìa is the homefront contrada location, flagship vineyard, late harvested nearing October’s finish and 100 per cent nerello mascalese. In the middle of 600 and 700m, on five types of layered volcanic mille-feuille, connected to the village of Passopisciaro. The best mascalese plants and rows are chosen for this single contrada Rosso, an Etna that takes the cumulative Rosso to a higher level of focus, preciseness and northerly understanding. This IS Graci, fruit and cure like a recipe passed down through generations, even if Alberto Graci is the family pioneer, at least in this place. Lightly chalky tannins present a structured notion for a Rosso that must be, has to be, can only be Arcurìa. Textured to settle on the palate and fortified just enough to explain something extra about the land. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2022\

Walking on basalt

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2019

In Feudo di Mezzo a wholly antithetical experience is had, ninety degrees to the west from full on northerly Arcurìa, ancient and early vines of 80 years or more growing at 600m, sharing the already tiny 1.5 hectare space with free and sky reaching nerello cappuccio growing as alberello. The oppositional character does not end there, what with the finer soils, less volcanic variegation and earlier to ripen location. And so the (95 per cent) nerello mascalese plus cappuccio Rosso is blessed of fruit breadth, round, circulating and enriching acidity, not to mention luxurious tannins. Feudo di Mezzo makes for some of the volcanic idiom’s most generous and lavish Rosso with this by Graci up there with the best. Longer maceration and full acceptance of the large barrels make this a most impressive Rosso to gain and gather friends. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Jimmy

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2017

Sopra il Pozzo describes a special portion of the signature Arcurìa vineyard (and contrada of the same name), a block “above the well,” 100 per cent nerello mascalese picked in the last week of October. Treated to the same maceration and elévage as the Rosso for the same spontaneous style and time as Feudo di Mezzo. However Sopra il Pozzo’s refuse soil composition is different and requires patience in the name of time, due to its alternating layers of decomposed volcanics in stone and coarse sand. This is a section of recast material and the corresponding mascalese is both emasculated and chivalrous. The degree to which layers of fruit, mineral and umami incorporare and completare is finite and contiguous yet also lengthy, scorrevole and endless. There is rare Etna glycerin texture and perfectly timed acid tang. tempismo perfetto. Grande. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted April 2022

Calcagno

Calcagno Etna Bianco DOC Ginestra 2020

Ginestra, a.k.a Genista aetnensis, the Mount Etna broom. A no wood, only stainless Etna Bianco spent time on lees and yet freshness of airy and open character abounds. And so a saltiness and a mineral wealth mix with typically lime blossom floral and spicy scents. Classic unadulterated and naked carricante, citrus streaking, tight, tart and satisfying. Could drink and relish this Bianco seven days a week. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2019

Primazappa comes from the commune of Milo, incidentally the only Etna area where it is allowed to bottle as Etna Bianco Superiore. A varietal carricante off of 30-40 year-old vines grown on both alberello and spalliera at 850m, picked in late September. The volcanic soils are quite weathered, decomposed and sandy, with a decided micro-mineral effect on this wood-aged and seriously flinty Bianco. Takes on a whole new appellative and stylistic meaning, clearly designed to age and enter another new Bianco world apart. Simultaneously smouldering and buzzing with mineral salts, fleshing if not yet quite fleshy. The curiosity and potentiality factors in this Bianco are developing and climbing off the charts. A bit wild now, it should settle into something really special. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2022

Sicilian blood orange for what ails

Calcagno Etna Rosato DOC Romice Delle Sciare 2020

Romice refers to a Sicilian grass species and delle Sciare literally “of skiing” so clearly a Rosato referencing the flora and also the high Etna slopes. A north side, salty, sapid and pink pink citrus slinging nerello mascalese, infinitely fulfilling and drinkable. Acids sling right along and balance is had by all, including sugars and fragrant fruits. Drink 2022-2023. Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2019

Calcagno is the life work of Franco, Gianni and Giusy Calcagno, two brothers and a daughter, first vintage being 2006, now a full grown concern. From the Contrada Calderara the mixed soil consists of black pumice and basalt. Perhaps made most famous by Cottanera but never sleep on the passion and torch passing into this generation of Calcagno hands. Cherries and red fruit in concentration could never be dismissed and in fact must be celebrated in a nerello mascalese of sweet intoxication. I really wanna know this Rosso, I really wanna go with this mascalese, my sweet Calderara. Fresh and grounded, effusive and espansivo, meeting at both poles, one mission gained. Implosive Rosso from the famiglia and one to savour after many other wannabes have walked heavy in their soles and commercialized their souls. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Terroir

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2019

Arcurìa contrada is a late October harvested cru for nerello mascalese grown at elevations between 600 and 700m, on five types of multi-layered volcanic soils associated with the village of Passopisciaro. The Calcagno profile is consistent with Calderara in red fruit as if cherries especially are prominent and yet sour-savoury and botanical tonic elements change the complexion of this particular Rosso. Less generous and effusive if more serious and even structured results. No, not the same wine at all, even if it is distinguished as being from Calcagno. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2022

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2019

Feudo di Mezzo is neither Calderara nor Arcurìa, here much smaller plots of alberello vineyards with their twisted and ancient vines 60, 70 even 80 years or more growing at 600m.The nerello msacalese often shares space with less dominant and texture thickening cappuccio but most notable is the salumi and red fruit skin musk aromatics of these Rosso. There is nothing like Feudo di Mezzo, characterful, distinct, knowable and just plain funky. In a 70s bass beat way, not quite G.Q. but perhaps Love Train style. Calcagno’s is really special FdM, reaching for greatness and making itself noticed. Don’t sleep on this cru “‘cause if you miss it, I feel sorry, sorry for you, well.” Drink 2023-2028. Tasted April 2022

Scirto

Scirto Don Pippinu Bianco Carricante 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo and also Contrada Porcaria, at 650m on L’Etna’s north slope, planted in the 1930s. Soils are black volcanic sand, sub-acidic, skeletal, rich in potassium and poor in organic matter. Don Pippinu is a name attributed to Giuseppe Scirto’s grandfather and the wine is made from carricante, catarratto and white minnella. Ages for 10-12 months in steel and in the bottle. Just a raw white assemblage with no strings attached save for 100 years of history and a little bit of skin contact. No volatile distraction to speak of but yes this wine settles on the palate like a dissolving citrus, chamomile and orange blossom salve. Not loathe but perhaps reticent to use the word natural though how else to explain this thing of delicasse, elixir of kind heart and vial of virility. Acids are purely substrata drive, flavours layered by lava and mixed white grapes so in touch with one another’s realities. Peak performance happens late, often and with persistence. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted April 2022

Scirto All’Anticas Vino Della Tradizione Nerello Mascalese 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

The term is “Rosso della Tradizione” or “Vino della Tradizione,” in other words Rosato. You have to look at and consider tradition where a certain style of Rosato is concerned and in Etnean terms this is a wine that must also be looked at under a Rosato lens. Still a matter of ungrafted 80-100 year old nerello mascalese (here with some cappuccio) subjected to 36 hours of skin contact. Where this diverges from a wine like the Don Pippinu Rosso is in the foggy, murky, uncharted, uncooked and untested waters of varietal sensitivity. And aromatics, here rising, inciting and inviting investigation. There is also a matter on minor Brettanomyces not present in the other Scirto wines. So yes tradition is on display, as is an unbending relationship for which control and sulphuring are not going to happen. Terrific aromatic display, mostly floral but also old vines and volcanic induced fruit substance but the palate is a world apart and to its own. That said it oscillates, wavers and delivers new complexities each and every time sipped. Curiosity takes on a whole new meaning. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted April 2022

Un’altra fetta d’amore

Scirto Don Pippinu Rosso Nerello Mascalese 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

Scirto is the work of Giuseppe Scirto and Valeria Franco near Passopisciaro, with grapes since 2010 and from vineyards inherited from their grandparents. They have vines in Feudo di Mezzo and Porcaria, mainly nerello mascalese. Don Pippinu comes from a tiny plot of ungrafted 80-100 year old nerello mascalese and nothing off of the north slope of Mount Etna resembles what’s in this glass. Throws a light sediment, its hue is orange sky pastel at dawn and a flirtatious volatility marks the nose. Opens to an earthy if wild berry fragrance and then the salty-geological basaltic rock energy alights, if of a purpose to wake up the palate. Do not be fooled into any commercial space or domain for this is a natural expression of the Feud di Mezzo zone. Not on purpose mind you but a Rosso that is precise and as was unintentionally intended. So much beauty in the complexion of its flaws, a taste into the mirror of what is necessary and also possible. Wouldn’t age this too long but can think of many, many wine geeks who could crush the bottles of such a quietly provocative Rosso. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Scirto A’Culonna Rosso Nerello Mascalese 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

monument in the centre of the nearby village of Passopisciaro. The volcanic stone was a three-sided carved obelisk indicating directions, to and from Milazzo, Taormina, Randazzo and Palermo. La Colonna was also the meeting place where peasants stopped for a chat and at the same time sold their wine. For Giuseppe Scirto and Valeria Franco it is predominantly nerello mascalese with some cappuccio picked in early October. Fermentation is done in stainless steel tanks using only natural yeasts, then aged 12 months in large and small used oak casks. Not filtered or fined with minimal use of sulphur at bottling. Clearly the most textural, glycerin and fruit pretty Rosso in Giuseppe Scirto’s Siciliane shed, flowers distilled into perfume, curious berry caramels swirling through the flavour profile. The swarthiness while there is perfectly seasoned and in check, the lasting impression is good, intuitive and reasoned one. A’Culonna is the bomb. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2022

Eduardo Torres

Eduardo Torres Acosta Viticoltore Versante Nord Uve Bianche 2020, Bianco Terre Siciliane IGT

The white counterpart to the “north slope” cousins is this from old vineyards in six different districts: Pietramarina, Allegracore, Piano Daini, Friera, Zucconero and Marchesa. The red nerello mascalese dominates but the vines are always inclusive of 10-15 per cent white grapes. In this case half minnella (Bianca) equalized and complimented by (50) other endemic varieties, as in carricante, catarratto, inzolia and grecanico. Fine sands of volcanic ash are the product of various and recent lava eruptions. The “Uve Bianche” expresses purposeful clarity and seriously rich Etna intendment, giving away a fleshy and controlled lees-effected texture. The weave has melted and so the seamlessness with which this drinks is second to none. A white of glaze and shine, implosive acid zing and explosive flavour bursts. It’s bloody delicious, so expertly assembled and crafted, professionally and yet subtly designed. Saying yes to this glass is akin to being paid for telling people what you already know. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Eduardo Torres Acosta Viticoltore Versante Nord Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Versante Nord, literally “north slope” is nerello mascalese (plus 15 per cent “varietà locali,” in other words nerello cappuccio and friends) from old (50-plus years) vines of the Pietramarina districts in Verzella, Capreri in Castiglione di Sicilia, Zucconero, Piano Daini in Solicchiata, Allegracore in Randazzo and Friera in Linguaglossa. The land is obviously volcanic, of mixed stones, sand and ashes from eruptions, several quite recent. Natural farming and fermentation, picked in the first two weeks of October and a 15 day, free to its own devices skin maceration. This gives the VS a raw feeling but truth be told the Rosso perfectly straddles the lines between the exposed and the sheltered, the volatile and the calm. Tart yet sweetly scented red fruits, edging to pomegranate but also a woven fabric in the mouth that suggests chalkiness, bend-ability and structure. Persistence is the surname, braiding the middle and “ascesa” the given. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted April 2022

Eduardo Torres Acosta Viticoultore Quotan Vino Di Contrada Piede Franco 2020, Rosso Terre Siciliane IGT

Quotan as in “quota” is an apt moniker, a part or personal share, easily discerned for producers on L’Etna and what land they have to use. The wine comes from an old vineyard in Piede Franco, in the Contrada Nave, on the northwest slope of the volcano. Quota N is also the name of the vineyard, Q being the stamp of locally known “roads quota nave.” A most unique assemblage, of half nerello mascalese, 20 per cent grenache and (30) uve bianche, of grecanico, carricante and coda di volpe. Allegedly if obviously lighter, brighter and airy finer than Versante Nord, multi citrus strewn and waxy with both yellow and red citrus giving it all away. Neither Rosato nor full on Rosso, nor somewhere in between but residing all on its own. Not a structured wine but wouldn’t put 10 years past it without something interesting happening, eventually leading to curiosity and pleasure. Crushable in any case, like semi-soft lemonade in the best way. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Tascante

Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2019

The vineyard was planted at 775m in 2010 in the contrada of Pianodario, one of four on the northern slope of Mount Etna, between the villages of Montelaguardia and Randazzo. Characterized by a degrading morphology from south to north on volcanics 15,000 and 4,000 years old. It is believed that the substrata is between 40,000 and 30,000 years of age. Pure nerello mascalese here is one of the latest picked in the last days of October, treated to a year in large Slavonian cask. Imagine sangiovese from somewhere like Montalcino but in this varietal world the lightness of being is palpable but also so accepting of the wood. If ever a mascalese from Etna were spoken in pure Sicilian blood orange terms this would be it. Tart yet never sour nor do you feel the acids in any sharp or inflammatory way. Really just purity and clarity, a well seasoned glass that comes from ripe fruit meeting nurturing barrel with the result being one of energy and spirit. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2019

Sciaranuova is located between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro at 730m and is one of the four contrade (districts) farmed by Tasca on northern Mt. Etna. The terraces of nerello mascalese were planted in 2008 and are generally harvested a week earlier than Piandorio. Less intense, more calming, acids not as sharp and fruit more developed in a Rosso of great stage presence and nurturing feel. Acts with less emotion and more control, delivers the kind of perfume that makes you close your eyes to consider and inhale. Pure wild strawberry and while surely airy and stone-cut there is always something of ease about this wine. Spice in the form of nutmeg and then cinnamon heart give a light white peppery edge but all turns to liquid, seamlessly integrated and finishing long. Drink 2023-2030. Tasted April 2022

Tasca’s Tascante vineyard

Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Rampante 2019

This third of three Contrade Rosso farmed and bottled by Tasca on Etna is from a vineyard at 740m between Solicchiata and Passopisciaro. Same volcanic geological time period (between 15,000 and 4,000 years old) but a bit of a swing here towards the east, direction Feudo di Mezzo. Some really old vines exist here and Tasca’s are planted in 2000, making them eight to ten years older than Piandario and Sciaranuova. Also picked a bit earlier, stylistic tighter, wound and wrapped, like a rounded Napoleon or mille-feuille with so much to unravel, uncover and discover. Neither blood orange nor strawberry here but rather currants and pomegranate, with underlying botanical tonics and a layer of organza material. Increased curiosity, elevated enigma and mysteries to unfold. Wait longer on Rampante. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2022

Contrada Rampante

Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2017

Northwesterly Sciaranuova at 730m is found between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciao. These gently sloping terraces of nerello mascalese went in the volcanic soil in 2008 and harvest usually occurs in the second to last week of October. One nose of 2017 and one understands about vintages and also time. If 2019 Sciaranova feels like a nurturing and health affirming nerello mascalese than 2017 writes the proverbial book on the subject. The warmth of the season is to thank but so is two extra years of settling in bottle time. A fleshing and a reckoning have taken place but so have a refreshing and an awakening. It could be thought that ’17 would not have shown this fragrant, open and vital just a year ago but now, well something of a next level rejoicing has occurred. The ’17 is in a right honest, pure and giving place. It should remain here for three, possibly even five years deeper. All this bodes so well for the most excellent ’19. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted April 2022

Vigneti Vecchio

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Doc Rosso Sciare Vive 2020

From Solicchiata on the northeastern slope and the work of Carmelo Vecchio, mainly nerello mascalese with 10 per cent indigenous varieties (including minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico, catarratto and malvasia.) As per the disciplinare there can be up to 10 white grapes and in this living, scorrevole sledding Sciare Vive they bring lift, refreshment and a glide across the palate. Takes a page out of the Crasà book with some meaty juices but here they run rare, show little cured meat character and just bloody enliven the energy and spirit of this wine. There is some sneaky structure lurking but my you could really sip the you know what out of this blessed Rosso. Youthfulness does show through in a minor amount of austerity at the finish so let this ’20 rest a while. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted April 2022

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Crasà Contrada 2019

Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa La Guzzaone farm one hectare of nerello mascalese in Crasà Contrada near Solicchiata on L’Etna’s north slope. Picked later in October, a wild ferment and a quick two week maceration on skins. Adds up to a stylish and perfumed Rosso, vibrant, pulsating and alive. The aromatics are curiously akin to the tightest lambrusco but with running meat juices, tonic, savour and pinpointed local accuracy. Cured meats too, impulsive and implosive fruit internment, definite block of a Contrada’s location intendment, trenchant in many purposed splendour. This Rosso means business and directs its own traffic. No affection or heirs, only truth out of Crasà effectuation. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted April 2022

Azienda Agricola Sofia

Azienda Agricola Sofia Etna Rosso DOC La Vigna Di Gioacchino 2020

The eponymous north Etna winery is run by Carmelo Sofia, son to Gioacchino who was born in 1953 in Castiglione di Sicilia. Dad had inherited vineyards in Solicchiata where the Piano dei Daini Contrada is located. Carmelo now has three hectares, two on that volcanic soil and one on clay in the Pietramarina Contrada, just outside of the village. This is vintage number four, all nerello mascalese grown at 600-700m. La Vigna di Gioacchino comes from Piano dei Daini and also Pietramarina, averaging out at 25 years, picked middle of October. Short skin contact, aging in concrete and as a result a level of kept freshness, but also the living, breathing feeling of cured meats and musky red fruit skins. No overt or purposeful structure but a true, honest and highly enjoyable Rosso experience. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Azienda Agricola Sofia Etna Rosso DOC La Vigna Di Gioacchino 2019

The 2019 was Carmelo Sofia’s third vintage in bottle, here from the label dedicated to his father Gioacchino and drawn from the two parcels he farms on Etna’s north slope. Both the volcanics of Piano dei Daini and the clay of Pietramarina Contrada contribute but in 2019 they are so entangled, meshed and together. A terrific vintage to match flesh against bone, substance versus karst and meaty depth in tandem with mineral sway. A brighter and more lifted Gioacchino as compared to 2020, sure it’s got another year under belt but here the layers coordinate and open. Ready for business. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted April 2022

Lava Flow of L’Etna eruption, 1981

Azienda Agricola Sofia Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Piano Dei Daini 2020

L’Etna’s north slope is the face of Contrada Piano dei Daini, here being the second vintage for which Carmelo Sofia decided to bottle as a single vineyard Rosso. The block is 65 year-old Alberello nerello mascalese that remains in contact with the skins a half week longer than Gioacchino and again there is no wood, only concrete for aging. Piano dei Daini straddles two worlds like few Etna Rosso can; swarthiness and clarity, lift and precision. Hard not to feel the volatility but it’s just so perfectly judged at the edge of the precipice in teasing, flirting and sly fashion. Whether intentional or nor it matters little because the ability to please both sides of that debate make this a deliciously risky and rewarding nerello mascalese. Confident and obvious, swagger and humility. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted April 2022

Azienda Agricola Sofia Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Piano Dei Daini 2019

The Contrada Piano dei Daini is on L’Etna’s north slope and Carmelo Sofia first made the decision to bottle a single vineyard/commune Rosso from the oldest (65 year-old) Alberello nerello mascalese in the previous ’18 vintage. Stays in contact with the skins a few days longer but again no wood is used, only concrete for aging. This went to bottle in September of 2021 but it still exhibits a reticence and hesitation to lift. The fruit is leathery and you feel a hidden musk pungency, a fruit meets salumi skin so typical of this vineyard and the volcanic strata it breathes upon. Great potential here, a year and a half away it would seem, before the florals, flavours and highlights begin to align and alight. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted April 2022

My friends are so lazy

Azienda Agricola Sofia La Vigna Di Gioacchino 2021, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT

Carmelo Sofia’s Bianco scents of a singular set of circumstances and aromas, in part taken from 60-70 year-old Alberello carricante with a few percentage points of catarratto, minella and inzolia. Drawn from Piano dei Daini (volcanic) and also Pietramarina (clay) on the northern Etna range, picked late in September and staying in touch with the lees for the full five months in tonneaux. The crème frâiche quality and lemon curd viscosity are not as in charge as first thought with some (four months) of steely stainless extra time making sure to keep freshness and juicy behaviour a clear and present part of the style. Battles the urge to swirl in yogurt and comes away clean, chewy but clean. Seems like a work in progress to a certain extent, four years into its tenure, with great focus and precision to come. Drink 2022-2024. Tasted April 2022

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