In March of 2024 Godello reprised a Düsseldorf redux by attending the annual ProWein Wine Fair and then hitting the road for a three-day, four region transversal of German wine-growing regions. Prowein, Messe Düsseldorf and the German Wines Institute brought international journalists through the Ahr, Nahe, Mosel and Rheinhessen. The producers visited were Weingut J.J. Adeneuer (Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler); Weingut Forster (Rümmelsheim), Schlossgut Diel and Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth (Burg Layen) and Weingut Anette Closheim (Langenlonsheim); Four producers from Der Ring 1899, a.k.a. the Bernkasteler auction company hosted the group at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach; Weingut Franzen (Bremm), Weingut Walter (Briedel), Weingut Rebenhof (Hochheim am Main) and Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz (Mertesdorf); Last stop was with Weingut J. Neus (Ingelheim am Rhein) in Rheinhessen and finally the press tour concluded with a fascinating Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek, presented by Sommelier Shanna Reis. Special thank you goes out to Christiane Schorn, Senior Manager Press & PR, ProWein, Michael Mandel, Messe Düsseldorf and Carola Keller, Marketing Manager, German Wines (DWI). These are the estates, their makers and notes on a collective 80 wines tasted between the 12th and 14th of March.
Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca – J.J. Adeneuer
Ahr Valley
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer – Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Blanc De Noir Purist 2022, Ahr Valley
Saignée method Blanc de Noir, reduced from the Grosses Gewächs spätburgunder, finished at three g/L of RS. Simple, fresh and dry. Quite pure as Rosé with a mild pith bitters finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Weissburgunder Purist 2022, Ahr Valley
Juts a month on the lees for pinot blanc, now a year in bottle, more about texture and mouthfeel than primary fruit. About as crisp and clean as it gets but again with a mild lime pith bitter finish, much like the Rosé. Length adds to the refreshment of the wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley
Mildly reductive and also a factor of Ahr Valley terroir, making pinot noir flinty and taut while still this youthful. As with all the Adeneuer pinots they all fall in at 13 percent alcohol, the wood factor only from Bourgogne forests and just 10 percent new. A mix of red berry fruit, more flint stone character and the faintest touch of red fruit but also almond bitters. Would never see this as jammy and chilling it down for maximum freshness is wholly encouraged. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 2 2020, Ahr Valley
A pinot noir from after the floods of 2021 and normally bottled after 12 months. Circumstances meant that after the barrels were saved the vintage had to remain in wood for 18 months, only able to be bottled after the clean-up. Caused the alcohol to finish at 13.5 percent instead of the usual 13 and there is more texture as a result. Feels like a bigger and creamier pinot noir with tang and more red berry plus a toastier quality than that of the coming ’21s and ‘22s. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 1 2021, Ahr Valley
A later harvest, two weeks later the 2018-2020 but also the flood vintage when on the night of July 14th and into the 15th the waters filled the cellars and basements plus halfway up the ground floor of the winery. The No. 1 always remains 18 months in barrel, fruit coming from the lower Ahr Valley vineyards in three villages. The soils are 60 percent volcanic rock and the basaltic reek is felt in palpable aromatic display. Much more lactic and blood red citrus style plus this porcine smokiness, like Speck bacon. More structure and only GG plots are used – three of them. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Kleine Kammer 2022, Ahr Valley
J.J. as in Johannes Josef (ancestor from the 18th century, dating to 1776). Kleine Kammer, meaning “small (fermentation) chamber.” This Adenauer pinot noir comes off of soils of only pure slate with sandy loam, the second choice from a GG site, a terraced plot measuring only 0.68 hectares in size. The rule in Germany for GG is such that you can’t use a site’s name twice, thus the fantasy name. Vines are 50-60 and 80-100 years of age with the younger vines giving fruit for this wine. Ages in 1,800 to 2,000L barrels, namely Taransaud. No real toast to speak of, nor new wood feels or bitters in any notable way. Classic slate example that expresses its terroir and since 1776 as a Monopole. from vines with deep roots that never see their berries get sunburnt. A beauty and grace about this, quite getable and with sneaky structure. Made with the Kastenholz clone, grandchild of a pinot noir original. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Rosenthal GG 2021, Ahr Valley
J.J. Adenauer is now Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca and together they farm 13 of 540 hectares in the region, third most from the fourth smallest region in Germany. A red wine specialist with 90 percent red grapes, mainly pinot noir while the rest is weissburgunder and now just starting with chardonnay. Basically a place where Bourgogne grapes thrive. Rosenthal is mainly sandy loam and graywacke soils to gift pinot noir with a purity, crispiness and liveliness. You simply will not find more fresh fruit purity from any of the other Adeneuer pinot noirs. Comes from 2.5 hectares in the GG vineyard and the acid structure here is sensational – the catalyst and reason why this will age longer and slower than the other wines. This was the flood vintage too so kudos to the estate for sticking with it and creating this delight of a pinot noir. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024
Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Frühburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley
Varietal frühburgunder, fresh and clean, clean, clean. Floral, without musculature, gamay like and though labeled at 13 per cent it’s really 12.7. Chill this and put away the serious talk. More than go gamay go – it’s fly frühburgunder fly. Approximately 1,500 bottles produced (plus 500 of the GG). Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Beef Tartar – Kräter Sauce, Pinienkerne, Koriander, Chips – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach
Mosel
Der Ring 1899 at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach
Weingut Franzen – Bremm
Weingut Franzen Riesling Der Sommer War Sehr Groß 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel
A dry Mosel riesling which means 10.2 g/L of RS, 7.3 TA and finished at 11 percent alcohol. “Winegrowing on a razor’s edge” for a riesling “summer project” begun in 2011, “a cuvée that presents the cross-section of our vineyards and combines all the advantages of the individual locations in one wine.” Spontaneous ferment, as with all the wines, not far from Cochem where the steepest vineyard in Europe slopes to 68 degrees. A riesling of what feels like crazy conversion rates coming from red slates and seasoned with many spices. You would literally have no idea there is any sugar in this wine and the length is exceptional. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Franzen Riesling Bremmer Calmont Großes Gewächs 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel
Bremmer Calmont delivers far more spice and power than the Franzen blend, here off of pure slate on a 65-degree slope which happens to be one of the steepest vineyards in Europe. Calmont is about as dry as riesling gets and its scintillant-mineral quality delivers true Großes Gewächs distinction. Extreme aridity perceived matched by intense sapidity that only this specific Mosel red slate provides. A riesling of trenchant intention, compact and stone cold concentrated. Serious wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024
Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen
Weingut Franzen Riesling Calmont Trocken 2021, Lagenweine, Mosel
Dry riesling from the steepest 65 degree vineyard of oxidized red Devonian slate and quartzite raised only in steel. The specs are 8.5 g/L of residual sugar matched by 7.6 g/L of acidity with 11.0 percent alcohol and as far as vintages are concerned this would be one to really age. Namely because of palate density but also because the acidity is as fine and finessed as it gets for this composition. May not pierce your riesling heart, or soul but it will age well. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel
Fachkaul is the parcel which forms a kind of mini-amphitheater-shaped bowl where at the end of the 1990s Kilian Franzen’s father Ulrich restored and replanted the vines. The epitome of Killian and Angelina’s story, a Calmont tale fraught with adversity, challenges and heartache, but this small (1.6-ish hectare) plot means everything. Mineral that matters, red slate and the steepest slope where all that is important, essential and profound result in singular riesling. Not quite as dry as the Bremmer but higher in acid, more stark, expletive and magical. Sapid lime intensity, long, significant, precise, consequential and just recently bottled in January. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024
Lachs – Tofu Puree, Edamame, Bohnen, Dijon Sauce – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach
Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2017, Große Lagen, Mosel
In a perfect place at this six to seven year stage, from one of the warmest seasons with lots of rain at harvest. Picking began in the second week of September and required many passes in the vineyard with a stringent selection to create (an overall) 15 skus for 11 hectares. The work of Killian and Angelina, students from Geisenheim who began this journey of family necessity at the ages of 23 and 20. A softer Fachkaul but that is the maturity speaking for riesling of a sapid tug on red slate, one and a half hectare mineral-varietal heartstrings. Quite remarkable and with three great years still laid out ahead. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel
Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024
Gerrit Walter and Angelina Franzen
Weingut Walter – Briedel
Weingut Walter Riesling Trocken 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel
From Briedel, next village out of this tight turn in the Mosel from Pünderich where Clemens Busch farms their riesling. The Walter Trocken is just 6.5 g/L of residual sugar pretty much hidden by 6.9 of TA. Six to eight hours of skin contact for a phenolic, taut, lime doused example off of the grey slate of the Briedel Vineyard. Solid effort and notably modern. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Walter Riesling Feinherb Briedeler 2022, Ortsweine, Mosel
Villages quality wine from Briedel, not as dry as the Trocken with three times the residual sugar, here at 10 g/L. A floral-herbal expression, fresh, light and modular. The acidity functions to make the malleable wine travel to the back palate and structure is formed because of this movement and interaction. Very well made Feinherb style by Gerrit Walter for simple pleasure, especially with a piece of cheese or beef tartare with pine nuts and a high acid mustard sauce . Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Walter Riesling Pünderricher Marienburg Großes Gewächs 2022, Mosel
Gerrit Walter is the next generation producer of this GG riesling out of Briedel’s grey slate vineyard. Sees a longer maceration of 12-15 hours, comes away super dry (3.1 g/L), matches the Trocken’s acidity and finishes at a Mosel high 12.6 per cent alcohol. This is not about fruit but rather the type of mineral focus that comes from Marienburg, with increased seasoning, spice, elements and tonic-edgy florals, though it is not the most phenolic of rieslings. Cracker example, truly dry and in command of the palate. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Pünderricher Marienburg 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel
One of two recognizable styes of riesling made by Gerrit Walter to carry on with Mosel tradition even while he and many young generation winemakers are turning to drier and drier. This from an early harvest resulting in 45 g/L of residual sugar, far from searing 8.0 TA and low-ish alcohol at 8.6 percent. There is more fruit here in a light, refreshing yet in its own way also intense style that the estate has been making for 10 years. “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” explains Gerrit and his Pünderricher is without any real skin contact, but the tangerine-orange peel aroma really kicks things off. The length is indeed outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Marienburg 2016, Lagenweine, Mosel
When talking about his 2022 Pünderricher from Marienburg Gerrit Walter noted that “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” three things this 2016 most surely had been. Not anymore because age has exaggerated the aromas if also softened the palate flavours. This divergence has resulted in maturity and a dispersion of parity. There is some interest for this fine if past prime look at a Marienburg riesling. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Walter Riesling Spätlese Briedeler Schäferlay 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel
Weingut Rebenhof – Hochheim am Main
Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Trocken Ürziger Würzgarten Von Wurzelechten Reben 2022, Hochheim am Main
Ürzig is a village in the Bernkastel district of the Mosel and the Ürziger (vineyard) is a place of red slate, often lending a spicy or salty character to the riesling grown there. Wurzelechten basically means “own or unrooted,” a significant case because there are between 50-60 hectares of un-grafted vines in all of Germany, about half of them planted between 1910 and 1935. Topsoil must exist over stoney soils for Phylloxera to attack and the slate in this part of the Mosel is not one of those locations. Rebenhof’s Kabinett is the truest form of Trocken and one of the zestiest you are ever likely to encounter. Matching sugar and acidity numbers create the equilibrium, both at 6.8 g/L with alcohol right there in the median sweet spot at 11 percent. Tons of lime, mostly zest and the intensity never relents. Still there is a fulsome aspect and so time should soften the attack and coax out some flesh. Unique riesling in any case. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Großes Gewächs Auktionswein Erdener Treppchen 2020, Hochheim am Main
A riesling with the Auktionswein classification which means it its part of the Bernkasteler Ring E.V., which is the oldest wine auction company in Germany. A Großes Gewächs (a mark of quality by top producers from best sites making dry wines) from the iron-rich, red slate soils of the Erdener Treppchen (village of Erden in the Mosel’s Bernkastel area). The 2020 is a wine of dichotomies, still on the dry side but with elevated numbers as compared to the Ürziger. Here riesling is at once salty but the acid presence (as a quotient of this vineyard’s minerals) creates an opposing sense of sapidity. Diversity from start to finish, a wine of waves and oscillations, multifold mineral movements and a gelid texture to the palate. Higher alcohol contributes to the elevated weight. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Spätlese Ürziger Würzgarten Von den Felsen 2018, Hochheim am Main
A new style of Spätlese riesling, well ahead of its time from 2018 out of the Ürziger Würzgarten with just a bit more than one-third of the residual sugar of the Kabinett. Here at 29.5 g/L and higher alcohol (11.0 percent) than might have been thought. This modern approach makes for a sapid riesling despite the sweetness, quite phenolic, ripe and grippy, rich and creamy yet intensely mineral. A lime cordial meets sherbet style with backbone, attitude and potential. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Auktionswein Ürziger Würzgarten Urglück 2022, Hochheim am Main
Fabulous nose with exceptional aromatics mark the entry of this very sweet riesling made in a singular Kabinett style. A riesling of nectarine and peach stone, creamy like the Spätlese but more bodied and emulsified as texture with acidity really buoying the fruit. The method, application and intention might suggest a challenge but Rebenhof does their best work when sugars are elevated because that is how they see riesling and its capabilities. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024
Charlie and Caroline Weis – Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz – Mertesdorf
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kaseler Nies’chen No. 15 Im Steingarten 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel
Caroline Weis describes the steep and exposed Nies’chen vineyard as the “mountain,” an extreme and specific Steingarten site with blue slate and sparse stony topsoil. It is anything but a “garden” of a vineyard to farm. Labeled Trocken and while anything but severely dry it is the intensity of this riesling’s acidity that plays tricks upon both the nose and palate. The TA is in fact higher (at 7.9) than the sugar (at 7.5 g/L). The new (and local) winemaker Phillip Steffes likes this style, more open than rigid and definitely sapid without any gratuitous generosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Mertesdorfer Herrenberg No. 14 2022, Mertesdorf, Mosel
As with the Nies’chen there is slate in the topsoil of the Mertesdorfer (Mertesdorf Village) Herrenberg but more blue on the lower slope, as opposed to black at the “mountain” top. Also a dry riesling though even more so (at 5.5 g/L) in this Großes Gewächs edition with an acidity number (at 6.7) that dominates to make this feel like one of the most arid Mosel rieslings around. A modern and modish take that commands attention, broadens the mouthfeel and so that fruit-mineral swirl becomes one of serious breadth. A credible example with acidity that is not sharp, but certainly powerful, impeccable balance and high level age-worthiness in the Trocken idiom. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Kaseler Nies’chen No. 12 Auf Den Nauern 2021, Mertesdorf, Mosel
Auf Den Mauern is a 60 percent steepness portion of the Nies’chen Vineyard and considered to be the most important riesling section where high slate walls support the slope. Though this does come across as dry there is more sugar (at 8.6 g/L) and also acidity (7.2) as compared to the Herrenberg. What stands out now is the saltiness in a way only this riesling from Erben Von Beulwitz is want to show. A different expression results, also because it’s still young, reductive and yet to open. Caroline Weis notes its 10-year potential and truth be told there will be two more years of waiting before any significant changes begin to occur. It could be suggested to open bottles at the 2,4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 year marks to see the evolution. It was a rainy summer of 2021 in this part of the Mosel and so things slows down for riesling. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10 2022, Mertesdorf
Classic Mosel style in the ways of the 90s and 2000s and “Dad’s favourite,” tells Charlie Weis. The kind that expertly balances high sugar and acid, layered like mille-feuille pastry, light on its feet and melting with ethereal ability in the mouth. Creates a symbiotic relationship with the Spätlese, the other Herbert classic styled riesling. The combination of 150 years of history and a family’s efforts since 1982 are what make a riesling like the Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben Kaseler Nies’chen No. 6 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel
Now into late harvest territory, old-school if you will, “Dad’s riesling” admits both Caroline and Charlie, Weis daughters and face of the estate. What a contrast to the Trocken, fruity, pulpy and forward, blast from the past though a very recent one to be honest. No holding back, zero reduction and ready to please. The specs are 95.0 g/L of residual sugar, 9.1 TA and 7.1 percent alcohol. Classic in so many respects, namely the tart stone fruit, sweetness elevated by the specific kind of acidity and good energy all-around. A clean and protected riesling that should have no problem living a long and productive life. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Auslese Alte Reben Auktionswein Kaseler Nies’chen 2015, Mertesdorf, Mosel
Tasted side by side with the 2020, a wine so incredibly youthful it seems years too early to be tasted. This 2015 is just beginning to show the first early stage of maturity, an Auslese from a hot summer with heavy rains. This fortunately stopped and the harvest saw cooling temperatures with beneficial drying winds. The end result was small berries and low yields for highly concentrated riesling fixing high quality Auslese. The acidity is still ripping through, keeping the sugars low and at bay, way down below. Kaleo rhythm, pure Mosel aromatic if perhaps the melodic-Icelandic gelid coolness, and “whoa, we get what we deserve.” Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024
Nahe Vineyard
Nahe
Weingut Forster – Rümmelsheim
Weingut Forster Sekt Brut Nature Chardonnay and Weißburgunder 2016, Nahe
The 2016 Sekt of zero dosage spent 90 months on the lees. Still showing good freshness and aromatics are more than joyous. The wine turns quite botanical and it’s all sweet herbs throughout the second half of this unique sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Weißburgunder Dry 2023, Nahe
Fermentation is 70 percent in stainless and (30) in wood. A few hours of skin contact, bâttonage and lees contact for a few months. Organic, with neutral yeasts in the steel and spontaneous in the barrels. Low sulphur, vegan and unfined. Just grapes, no additions, proper ripeness, tasting like fruit and admittedly never creamy, oaky or gratuitously soft. Clean, satisfying, of medium acidity and surely just a matter of healthy grapes out of a good pinot blanc vintage. Well thought out, environmentally and sustainably conscious white wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Riesling KABInett 2023, Nahe
A German word play, the use of KABI in bold, as in “I’d like to have a Kabi, short for Kabinett.” One of the first riesling harvested at lower sugar and higher acidity though like all Kabinetts the residual sugar is essential, though here it’s in the lower range at 36.2 g/L. A cool climate vineyard that is now warming to be able to make this style in the Nahe, plus Laura Forster wanted this style to be made, especially because of the low alcohol. Only the third vintage, a fine mix of peach and lime, richness and tang. Well balanced though not one to age like many from the Mosel. Only 3,000 bottles made. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Riesling vom Kies Dry 2022, Nahe
From gravel (kies) soils and the aromatic profile is not only so opposite to the Schiefer but to 99 percent of rieslings made in Germany. A botanical tonic and a cheese rind that really expounds on the idea of this being a natural wine. Yes the soil comes through but also the vinification process, of 10-12 hours of skin contact, first press juice only, spontaneous fermentation in steel, finished at Christmas. Very dry, lime finish and just a bit “horsey.” Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
The Forsters
Weingut Forster Riesling vom roten Schiefer Dry 2022, Nahe
From red slate soils, same fermentation-vinification process as the Kies (granite) riesling. Less lactic and more phenolic, dry as can be and in better balance with thanks to the soil. Still it is the mix of style, use of compost, organics and low intervention, including sulphuring that creates this very natural scenting, a notably earthy and cheese rind notated riesling. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2018, Nahe
Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. Warm vintage though cooler than 2019, higher in sugar though still just about bone dry at 2.9 g/L. Also higher in alcohol at 13.5 with more flesh and body and the balance afforded this clean riesling from clearly healthy soils is just right there where we want it to be. Tannins and structure aided by long lees aging (up to a year) in stainless steel. Freshness fully captured, longevity a true matter of potential and acidity still a great catalyst for all that is happening and will continue to develop in the wine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2019, Nahe
Mild though detectable TCA. Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. A complete and utter apposite vintage to the cooler 2018, here warm and dry, the sugar under 1.0 g/L and the acids also a point lower. Alcohol 1.5 less at 12 and overall the balance afforded by 2019 was surely more of a challenge. Warm nights up to harvest sacrificed some acidity and so structure overall here, included tannin is lessened. Just not as balanced and without the top energy of 2018 but still well and naturally made. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Grauburgunder Réserve Dry 2022, Nahe
Short 12 hour but effective skin contact for pinot gris, fermented in 500L tonneaux, 12 months of lees contact and healthy alcohol at 13.5 though less than much warmer vintages. Grows on the red slate soil of the Rotenberg (red mountain), sun richness and good metallurgy in the aromatics. Juicy, fleshy and just enough acid to keep things moving swimmingly along. Great diversion from a sea of pinot grigio ubiquity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Frühburgunder Burg Layer Johannisberg 2022, Nahe
A single vineyard red from the rare variety (only 440 hectares planted in all of Germany), a cru frühburgunder not oft seen in the Nahe. Early ripening grape planted by Johannes Forster’s father 20 years ago. Softer tannin structure as compared to spätburgunder and grown in the cooler site where the riesling for Kabinett also grows. Some whole bunch, fermented on skins for four weeks and yes just enough tannin has come through. Some aging in low toast new barrels, a bit more structure than some though it stays below the threshold of too much extraction and tannin. Just a bit of spice and again gamay or perhaps even pelaverga is the mind’s launching point. Just a hair ambitious for what the grape is want to deliver. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Forster Spätburgunder Kies 2022, Nahe
Grown on the Kies (granite) soil, four weeks of skin fermentation, very little wood usage, soft but still just enough grip to effect structure. Similar natural feel like many of the rieslings and more viscous mouthfeel than the frühburgunder, liquid chalky and again the cheese rind note, Also a verdancy and red citrus tang, desiccated roses and minty cool savour at the finish. Tannins are just a bit hard, chalky-grainy and friable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Schlossgut Diel – Burg Layen, Nahe
Schlossgut Diel Pinot De Diel, VDP.Sekt, Nahe
A vibrant mix of pinot noir and pinot gris from Caroline Diel, seventh generation winemaker at Burg Layen which came into the possession of the Diel family in 1802. The base wine is 2020 fruit with some residual 2019 involved, two years on the lees and of an aperitivo intent. Easy drinking and on the dry side which feels like another Brut Zero style is well within Diel’s capable reach. Like a bite into a tart and juicy green apple with a drip of red fruit and a fairly tart finish. Satisfying bubble all around. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Dorsheim 2017, VDP.Orstwein
Villages organized riesling from neighbouring village Orstwein with seven-plus years of age, dry and now pretty much in the perfect zone. Has aged beautifully, sitting up vertical and straight, giving generously with a clear and present amount of grace in restraint. The balance between extract and tannin, fruit and acid is simply structured, allegedly and unequivocally spot on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel
Schlossgut Diel Cuvée MO Brut Nature 2014, VDP.Sekt Prestige
“I believe sparkling wine does not need any dosage,” and Caroline Diel followed this when she joined the family in 2007, continuing what started going all the way back to the 2004 beginning of this project. Cuvée MO Brut Nature is ninety months on the lees, made with pinot noir and chardonnay. Developed richness for a sparkling wine made at the time in an oxidative style,. Showing aldehydic notes, of brioche to the end of a smoky and really old style of Champagne. Should actually stay this way for a few more years to come. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Schlossgut Diel Pinot Noir Réserve 2020, Nahe
Most of the vines were planted in the mid to late 90s by Caroline Diel’s father Armin. Approximately 20 percent whole cluster, the rest hand de-stemmed, all vineyards in the cuvée fermented naturally and kept separate. A year and a half in barrel, spontaneous malolactic settling, racked now and then and no filtration. Rich fruit, high acid, truly complex aromatics, meaty perfume, full, juicy, lively and finally a truly substantial finish. Neither derivative nor imitative. This is Caroline’s mid-level pinot noir for a 7th generation winemaker who would go on to do the 2022 harvest at Romanée Conti. Mid-level will surely rise up to even greater heights. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, VDP.Grosses Gewächs
The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024
Schlossgut Diel Riesling Kabinett Goldloch 2022, VDP.Grosse Lage
When she returned to the family in 2007 Caroline Diel’s first order of business was to not use herbicides “and it was a disaster,” she remembers, “not being prepared with staff, machine and experience.” Good things take time and now organic certification will come in 2024. The 2022 vintage was not the hottest but was an extremely dry one that saw vines on steep hillsides have to work hard to resist the dangers. Healthy vines can in fact digest the climatic extremes and this riesling of Kabinett style is a testament to facing the challenges head on. The gravelly bedrock of Dorsheimer Goldloch is of the Permian age and its rieslings are juicy as it gets, fruit forward and truly antithetical to the über mineral of the Pittermännchen. Makes sense that Kabinett is the choice for this naturally sweet meeting equal factored acidity that connects for a kick mix of sweet, salty, sapid and savoury. A quotient of 42 g/L of RS so hidden by the acids, grip and energy of the wine. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024
Christine Pieroth – Piri Naturel
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth – Burg Layen, Nahe
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Mathilda 2021, Nahe
Christine Pieroth is 7th generation for a winery dating back to 1789. Mathilda is a blend of sylvaner, riesling and kerner, made for simple drinking pleasure. Bottled under screwcap to capture the natural effervescence, skin contact and cloudy character for a characterful example of what a nurturing and deft touch can do for grapes that just want to be together. Clean and well made without any pretence, trend or commercial design. Natural for the simple reason of pour me a glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Riesling 2021, Nahe
Christine Pieroth studied at Geisenheim and worked in the Okanagan. Her philosophy is really quite direct. “Agriculture is really separated from nature.” Piri Naturel is riesling grown on granite-based, (ancient) sandy seashore pebbles called the Kieselstein. Macerated on the skins for one day, to capture the cool climate region, especially with riesling, then ages two years on full lees in big Stückfässern. “One of the vintages (2021) with the highest acidity I’ve ever experienced” she remembers. Beautiful purity captured without oxidative or any idiomatic orange ornateness. Brilliant riesling work in the style for those who like and want, but also those skeptical of what this kind of wine can be. Acids are captured, tamed and on time release. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Ponderosa 2021, Nahe
A family nickname for the vineyard and incidentally also the Matsutake mushroom, a.k.a. Armadillo Ponderosa. Comes from a schist slope that changes colour from top to bottom, here for a single vineyard though it can’t be labeled this way. Not filtered and so it can’t have a classification. “In the last year I’m turning things upside down” says Christine Pieroth. Ponderosa is 90 percent pinot gris with (10) pinot noir treated to carbonic maceration and my if this isn’t the pink juice you really want to drink. Pink grapefruit, jelly belly, pomelo and guava, dry and tropical, crunchy and tart though never searing. Drink this with a grilled striploin – seriously. Forget Rosé or chardonnay – the acid structure, grip and tannins will do well especially, with a marbled cut. After all it is called Ponderosa. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pinot Blanc 2019, Nahe
Piri farms 7.5 hectares for an average of 80,000 bottles, mostly estate. Permaculture and regenerative farming are practiced with organics as the basis for everything, including no fining or sulphites. The pinot blanc is from 70 yer-old vines, “a very special vineyard, planted by my grandpa,” tells Christine Pieroth. Red schist soil to gift passion and texture to pinot blanc that sees three years in oak, all the while on its lees. No complication, a wine of perfume and nuance, abstract expressionist style, an incredible natural sweetness. A unicorn wine, infinite in ways that can and also can’t be described. The most alcohol of Christine’s wines at 13.5 percent but acidity and spices share the stage and spread the wealth. A slight amount of oak flavour, but fermentative notes have all resolved. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pét-Nat 2021, Nahe
A Germanic-styled Pétillant-Naturel in the Lambrusco idiom, bone-dry, made from Piwi grapes planted 20 years ago. They being dornfelder and regent (the piwi variety). Talk about foresight and seeing the challenge ahead of the curve. Leesy and cheesy, the most reductive and natural of all Christine’s wines. The kids will love this. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim – Langenlonsheim
Weingut Anette Closheim Calardis Blanc Dry 2023, Nahe
Calardis is a Piwi variety crossed with bacchus (as opposed to sauvignon blanc or cabernet sauvignon especially) and this is just the second vintage of trying it. Quick on skins, fermentation and just bottled in February. Picked on the 22nd and 23rd of September after a picture perfect season. A muscat aromatic way about this unique hybrid example, light, fresh, clean and this elastic push-pull between fizzy and botanical. Bit of white peach and peach pit too. Finished at 12.5 percent alcohol with 4.7 RS and 5.8 TA. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling With Friends Dry 2022, Nahe
For friends who are or may not be friends with riesling, but they can be. Acts dry but there is 7.0 g/L of residual sugar and a near equal amount of acidity. Entry riesling in style, juicy, high citrus, only steel raising and uncomplicated. Lime in every way, especially the juice and the zest. Bit of a Mojito you might say. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Fifteen Dry 2022, Nahe
From Langenlonsheim, Nahe. A long and narrow, “street village” a.k.a. the Naheweinstraße that lines the Nahe. Anniversary riesling of the label, a blend of two single vineyards, planted in 1963 and 1965, red limestone and Nahe gravel. Vinified separately in old wood and in the 2022 there is some residual sugar because one half did not quite finish its fermentation. Seems like rising pH numbers in a vintage like 2022 is the reason for lower acidities and while riesling still seems immune you can’t say the same about pinot grigio and pinot noir which are hitting numbers at or exceeding 3.5. Quite a balanced riesling, a bit higher in RS than the “With Friends” but also more vibrant, less rounded and more quenching. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Pastorei Dry 2018, Nahe
The last vintage of this near 40 year-old south facing riesling vineyard which has since been re-planted to chardonnay because it’s just too warm a place and 2018 was such a vintage. Finished at 13.5 percent which is about as high as you’re going to accept from riesling, with acidity at a healthy 6.3 though anything but creating a searing experience. Lime juicy, ripe and reduced, like a creamy cordial, sapid as it gets, sweetly botanical upon the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Kabinett Löhrer Berg Medium Sweet 2022, Nahe
From the right side gravel soils for a different mineral experience and while sugar (at 36 g/L) runs high in the Kabinett style you can’t deny how forceful the (8.1) acidity really is. A good if not highest level vineyard site, vines 10-12 years of age, nectarine and lime, well integrated and such a grippy wine. Will hit its balanced stride in a year or two. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Maturis Dry 2022, Nahe
Single vineyard sauvignon blanc called Maturis, as in ripe, well matured and experienced. The clones are mostly from Alto Adige but also some from France, the vines now 16-18 years of age, in seven vineyards, picked across a week’s time. Verdant, botanical and there is a CO2 buzz on the palate. Lime intensity with just six percent wood aging. One of the most unique SBs ever tasted, like green eggs and ham. Tonic fuelled finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Lorista Dry 2022, Nahe
Higher, drier, similar acidity to the Maturis and now the barrel aged version, with the latest picked grapes (near to the end of September) and a much preferred iteration for Langenlonsheim. From a quickly settled, cloudy and protected pressing that clarifies itself and delivers this amazing richness in spite of the austere aridity. The acidity feels closer to riesling for the Lorista and yet there is some roundness, a creamy consistency based on lime because of the wood. Really unique for the variety, made with the Leimbourg (LB) 36 clone out of Alto Adige. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2020, Nahe
Pretty big pinot noir, not exactly traditional German spätburgunder, from German research clones with bunches of small berries and space. Results in more airflow, less botrytis and good ripeness. Low yielding and good colour. Stays on the skins for 16-18 days and then wood for 14-16 months, mainly from François Frères, 25-35 new, plus second, third and fourth fill. Dark berries, sweet savour (with help from 30-40 percent stems added back) for a level of verdancy expected and well integrated. Solid work here. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2016, Nahe
Considering the ripeness, well integrated chemistry and complexity of 2020 it should be really fascinating to look back at 2016. Still peppery reductive and surely a matter of vintage meeting winemaking that both changed within two years after this one. Quite a bit lower in alcohol, here at 13 percent and a perceivable verdant-savoury accent with no shortage of salt and pepper seasoning and added spice. Beyond the reduction this is showing really well, with cool freshness and what could be called a classic German vintage. A pinot noir naked to the world of beauty and that could not be hidden. First vintage was 2008 and since 2012 the same two vineyards have been making this wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2019, Nahe
Higher percentage of stems (over 50) as compared with 2020, with moderate alcohol (at 13 percent like 2016). Now things are really interesting, also more new oak involved and clearly the thought was that this combination of ripeness and moderation could handle more structure and anti-jam developing fruit. Which turns out to have been the correct move because the wood is hidden, the succulence raised and the overall effect one of best balance. Truly well made, judged and effected pinot noir. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Meilenstein 2020, Nahe
Meilenstein, meaning milestone and a wine that marked a big step from a wine that used to be based on point noir with st. laurent. A richness and a pyrazine quality, mildly smoky and really warming on the back end going down. A mix of 65 percent cabernet franc, (25) merlot and 10 acolon (a crossing of dornfelder and lemberger). A quarter new wood and 24 months for a spicy red blend with good energy. It’s woody and a bit awkward still but another year or so will do well to get it into a good place. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024
Rheinhessen
Weingut J. Neus – Ingelheim Am Rhein
J. Neus Chardonnay Muschelkalk 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
Chardonnay is increasingly important at J. Neus and while pinot noir represents 70 percent of the portfolio it is this kind of entry-level varietal wine that speaks to what is possible. All chardonnay is barrel fermented and aged in 500L tonneaux and some German wood. Simple but proper, subtle in all the important ways, especially texture. Impressive work for a barrel fermented and aged, full malolactic chardonnay. Good crunch, energy, vitality and persistence. Pure chardonnay expression, the new Rheinhessen personified for what white wine can be, especially in and around Ingelsheim. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
J. Neus Chardonnay Ingelsheimer 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
Ingelheim is the village and this is currently the higher tier chardonnay though a third is on the way so it will soon fall into the middle. Certainly shows more newer tonneaux and compactness on the aromatic front, less forthcoming and yet clearly more stylish. Smells richer and more expensive, transitions with tighter grain and intensity, fills the spaces in between with riper, woven and textured fruit. Then it’s all chalky limestone strikes with spice over the last moments of the wine. Vanilla rests and settles on the finish. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024
J. Neus Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
The introductory pinot noir with a great part of it made with Neus clone grapes, genetically selected by Josef Neus who came from the Mosel and started the winery in 1881. Full on berry aromas in red but also blues, still quite primary as if it just recently come out of its fermentative machinations. So fruit forward and floral, truly unique oi the world of pinot noir and the vintage must have more than something to do with this result. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
J. Neus Spätburgunder Alte Reben Ingelheimer 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
Eminently and immediately notable to recognize more reduction, flint stone and less fermentative aromas as compared to the entry level Muschelkalk spätburgunder. The wood lends an early and persistent toasty quality while dried herbs and botanicals remind of the phenolics that a Neus pinot noir has been showing for a decade. That said the style has for sure softened and refined over the last seven years to arrive at this well founded time in its tenure. Many people will be surprised at this high level of Rheinhessen quality. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024
J. Neus Spätburgunder Pares GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
A hot summer though the Grosses Gewachß spätburgunder are made from fruit grown in the coolest spots and picking was done in mid September ahead of the rains. Lively and spicy aromatics with acidity showing up even before a sip is taken. Red fruit of many ilk, from stone through citrus and yet the palate is quiet, namely because Pares is a much more mineral example than the other GG called Horn. Again the refinement compared to vintages such as 2014 shows the progression and evolution of Neus’ work with pinot noir. Approximately 3,000 bottles are produced between the two GGs. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted March 2024
J. Neus Spätburgunder Horn GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen
One of two single vineyard sites (along with Pares) on the Meinsebach side of the river and Ingelheim village. Horn is the warmer of the two sites and so the great immediacy of the Pares acidity gives way to greater depth of gratifying fruit maturity on Horn. More stone and less citrus but really the differences are subtle even while the breadth here surely elevates this unique GG. The vineyard faces southwest and texture really concentrates in a pinot noir that still shows off sweet acidity with top level spiciness and energy. Ripest stems are added back and again it just feels like this process has been refined over the last seven years to come to this really stylish point. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024
Shanna Reis – Ingelheim Vinothek
Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek with Shanna Reis
Organic Weingut Weitzel Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bockstein 2021, Rheinhessen
The work of Elke & Eckhard Weitzel with riesling of late harvest (somewhere between Kabinett and Spätlese) designation though also classified as dry. A bit of an oxymoron but this is in fact of a much lower residual sugar content for a late picked riesling. Lacks the energy and drive in the sugar-acid relationship of true or classic late harvest and so the simplified style drinks easily with straight lines and one-dimensional lime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
AdamWein Weißburgunder Trocken Ingelheim 2022, Rheinhessen
Simona Adam is the winemaker, having taken over from her parents nearly 10 years ago. Creamy wood on the nose and even more so on the palate. Spice and pencil lead first, followed by lactic peach and vanilla after. A shot of tonic at the finish for a nicely complex if easy drinking white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Ingelheim Vinothek
Weingut Arndt Werner Weißer Burgunder Trocken Lottenstück 2022, Rheinhessen
One of two local organic wineries doing weißburgunder (though for the consumer confusingly labeled “Weißer Burgunder) and a much fruitier, almost fruit punch, up front and round style of pinot blanc. Lower in acid and really just about the fruit. It’s weisser, meaning whiter, so the question is, how much more white can this pinot be? The answer is none more white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Hamm-Burgkirsch Souvignier Gris Weiss Trocken Zunkunftswein 2022, Rheinhessen
A Piwi grape, German cross between seyval blanc and zähringer created in 1983 by Dr. Norbert Becker. Strange that it was originally thought to be a cross between cabernet sauvignon and bronner and maybe because the grapes are quite dark pink in colour. The idea is sauvignon gris meets viognier and the style is not far from that type of union. The palate is more tropical and unctuous than what the nose might have indicated but there is a pungency and passion fruit-like note that advances aromatically after a sip is taken. Some sweetness and good acidity. Could really see people enjoying this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Bettenheimer Frühburgunder Trocken Schlossberg 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen
Germany’s most interesting grape and perhaps its red future is frühburgunder, a.k.a pinot noir précoce or pinot madelaine, a cultivar that needs to be treated without great oak or pressed ambition. This is neither lithe nor heavy but some not so perfect wood makes the texture quite pasty and it settles uncomfortably on the palate. Some green tannin as well – pressed just a bit heavy it feels. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Weingut Wasem Doppelstück Pinot Noir Trocken Ingelheimer Pares 2020, Rheinhessen
Some micro oxidative notes at this three-plus year stage though also a taut and compact sensation both on the nose and palate. Rich glycerin and viscous, plenty of cherry and cherry stone bitters for complexity but also a harshness at the finish. Doppelstück is a barrel name where more than one family makes wines but this pinot noir is made by two sisters of the family’s next generation – Doppelstück, meaning twice as big as a regular sized barrel. Very promising varietal wine, just a bit heavy pressed at this stage in its tenure. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Menk Frühburgunder Trocken 2021, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen
Fresh and energetic frühburgunder with a briny note but some nice fresh raspberry fruit with leafy accents. Palate is a bit syrupy while overall acidity and drive are quite good. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Baum-Barth Ingelheimer Frühburgunder 2021, Rheinhessen
Good ripe fruit, a bit oxidative but the bottle has been open for a few days. That said the tannic structure and energy are clearly based on an uptick of quality and overall intensity is really fine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024
Sebastian Münster Frühburgunder Cosmographia 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen
Fine and well made frühburgunder with a lactic way about it and fruit really well connected to the structural aspect of the wine. A bit of red fruit paste and austere tannins so there is potential and the pressing was done with some fine restraint. No overriding green tannin but a tisane quality is part of the deal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024
Good to go!
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