Montalcino Previews 2025: Brunello 2021, Brunello Riserva 2020, Rosso and older vintages

Montalcino morning

Thirty-eight years after first visiting Montalcino it was a phrase articulated by Canalicchio di Sopra’s Francesco Ripaccioli that helped to explain the true essence of the place. “Born here by chance, growing here by choice” were words to truth spoken for anyone who has vested a resolute interest in Tuscany’s most talked about hilltop village. For Capaccioli, consciousness is not something that happens incidentally or by accident, intention determines outcome and making wine in Montalcino has never been a pursuit for the timorous. Capaccioli’s ideology is expressive of his deep sense of belonging to a place and in his endeavours he is far from acting alone. The modern day story of Montalcino may only officially date back just shy of 60 years but roots run centuries deep and the current generation’s commitment to quality and community is taking the Brunello and Rosso (with smatterings of Sant’Antimo and Moscadello) to another level. Three examples amongst many can be found through the work of Tommaso Squarcia at Castello Tricerchi, Valeria Vittori at Il Molino di Sant’Antimo and Ilaria Martini with her partner Michael Peter Motiu at San Guglielmo. This group of young next generation producers have chosen to activate the living embodiment of the phrase voiced by their passionate peer. Nato qui per caso, cresciuto qui per scelta does well to define all that Montalcino was yesterday, continues to be today and surely will become tomorrow.

Francesco Ripaccioli, Canalicchio di Sopra

Annual visits to Montalcino are filled with vintage intelligence and journalists scoop up this information, Godello included. Vintage matters are no doubt important and yet each year the word Vigna seems to increasingly dominate the word count. Just 10 years ago the mix and juxtaposition of Brunello and Riserva was the thing – Today Vigna is the great foil for the classic Brunello bottling and it sure feels like Riserva’s status is decreasing, or perhaps altering in meaning. For more and more producers making a wine of place now comes before thoughts of producing wines of a vintage. “The wine of the vintage has to be a message to the market,” explains Ripaccioli, “and that is the Riserva – After 20 years a consumer will recognize it as a wine from the vintage it came from.” At the peak of Cupano’s elevation is the Cardetta Camigliano, “the road to the sea,” running through the vineyard. The road was the shore of the ancient river and thus the rocky disposition. Beginning with the 2022 vintage Cupano winemaker Andrea Polidoro decided to eliminate Riserva and instead made the choice to begin producing a new sangiovese from the rockiest vineyard. “I think it (Riserva) is a useless category,” insists Polidoro. “Just an excuse to take a Brunello and double the price.” What will this new wine be called? No answer as of yet, but Cupano di Cupano does have a nice ring to it.

The AIS Siena Sommeliers

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

So what about 2021? Perhaps a season of many characteristics shared with that of 2015. That said it was 2001 the last time there was a vintage with this combination of April frost, high quality fruit and ultimately balance. At Camigliano, lower production was the result of, if not quite a catastrophe due to the April frost. “A natural selection” says winemaker Sergio Cantini, with full yields in the upper blocks and 90 percent loss down below. In the end total production was 170,000 bottles as compared to a normal amount of 200,000. For Valeria Vittori at Il Molino di Sant’Antimo, the loss was 40 percent.

More of a “balanced vintage,” says Frescobaldi agronomist and winemaker Davide Bozzon, with a longer harvest from mid-September through to the early days of October. You might be tempted to compare 2021 with 2001 though they are assuredly different eras and it’s worth mentioning that Camigliano did away with barriques between 2005 and 2010. Since then the medium of choice has been 60 hL casks of mixed origin and so wines today are vastly different to those made in the early 2000s. At Argiano it was 2015 when the barriques were out and the large Botti in. La Fortuna lost nearly 40 percent of production to the ’21 frost, a bit less at the estate vineyard to the northeast while the 1997 planted Castelnouvo dell’Abate vineyard suffered a harsher fate. Similarly in 2020 though not quite to the same extent and from which Angelo Zannoni made the unique decision to de-classify some Brunello and create a “Late-Release” Rosso di Montalcino. “For terroir (nerds) and the Montréal market.” As for barrels, Zannoni makes use of his 27 hL casks for 10-15 years. Asked what he does with them after that he says “break then down, make a fire and cook a bistecca.”

With AIS Siena Sommelier Angela de Nardis and Le Chiuse

Banfi’s Chief Agronomist Gianni Savelli, Winemaker Matteo Bagnoli and Director Ridolfo Maralli explain the course of weather and action for the 2021 season. The frost of April 7th and 8th affected the lowest vineyards below 100m of elevation but most of the vines are above the frost line and so overall the yields were reduced by a mere 15-20 percent. The end of July and beginning of August saw heat spikes to peaks of more than 40 degrees and irrigation was used, then stopped after Ferragosto to avoid problems that might occur during veraison. Water does not reopen the vines from their shutdown because when temps are high the plants “valves” are closed and they will not absorb moisture because the water evaporates before that can happen.

Only short rains came in September, typical for Tuscany. To slow down sugar maturation the first thing was irrigation and the second a removal of the apical leaves. The bunches take 120 days but the leaves can be as short as 60 days to develop sugars so you do what you can to reduce the photosynthesis of the plants. Also to reduce alcohol by as much as one percent, though the colour stability becomes questionable. The team has figured out that reducing the yields to three or four tonnes per hectare brought lots of sugars, but not necessarily the best quality. In the end sangiovese is the most resilient variety and they are no longer looking for concentration, muscle and colour. Better to think in terms of say nebbiolo and not cabernet sauvignon. Banfi’s first selection goes to Col di Sasso, the second to Rosso di Montalcino. The third gets sorted in the winery, also using an optical sorter for Brunello di Montalcino.

Montalcino, September 2025

A look at vintages from current Rosso to future Brunello

Harvest 2023 intel from Biondi-Santi informs that here was 420 mm rain from October 22nd through February 23rd, most of it in the early winter, including snowfall. Frost came on April 6th, along with 32 rainy days out of 45 from May 3rd to June 14th, including a hail event on May 25th. The amount was 235 mm of total rain. More than 5mm on average every day, or an actual average of eight mm each day it rained, with the highest concentration right at full flowering. “In 25 years this is something I’ve never seen,” tells Biondi-Santi Director of Winemaking Federico Radi, but as they say, “quando piove sotto gli alberi non piove,” when it rains it doesn’t rain under the trees, or use an umbrella. Another hailstorm occurred on August 17th and 88 mm of rain fell in August. Harvest lasted 21 days, from September 13th to October 10th, with rainy days on September 14th, and the 21st to the 23rd. Harvest was longer than normal, with relatively stable weather during picking days.

There is no easy way to spell or say it but 2023 will always be known as the Peronospora vintage. The rainfall in mid-May through mid-June wreaked havoc on the vines through an unprecedented attack by the genus of oomycete plant pathogens, often called “water molds” that cause severe downy mildew diseases. The May-June deluge fostered the pathogens, often bypassing the leaves, heading straight to the budding fruit, in many cases attacking both simultaneously. In 2023 Canalicchio di Sopra blended the fruit from all three single vineyards into the Brunello. The loss was 65 percent and as a result no Cru, Vigna or Riserva were made. For more on the vintage read Godello’s Benvenuto Brunello report from the 2023 edition.

Masterclass with Gabriele Goreli MW

As for 2024, it was as challenging a vintage as they come, first from a rainy Spring, followed by a dry summer and into September with eight days of rain. Was hard to choose when to harvest and the overall weather posed a credible threat to organic agriculture. Stringent selection of grapes was necessary with variable ripenesses all over the vineyard map. The most variability came from fruit in the youngest vineyards and also those vines growing in the sandiest soils. Fourth generation Capanna winemaker Amedeo Cencioni explains that neither 2023 nor 2024 were vintages to put sangiovese into any new wood. For the most part the ’24s will be lighter wines, that much we know and barrel tastings at more than 20 estates confirm this prospect. That said the average alcohol will be in and around 13.5 percent and the most drinkable of all Montalcino wines will be beautiful.

At Cupano Andrea Polidoro speaks to their location as “the most Mediterranean part of Montalcino. For me it looks like Ireland – Compared to the Maremma.” Many agronomists are converting their vineyards from Cordone Speronato to Guyot and Polidoro has well considered his own responses to climate change, including ceasing the practice of vine topping in 2022. The change was nearly immediate with less alcohol development being the noted result. After a 2022 experiment Andrea did indeed convert the 2013 planted vineyard in 2023. “The bottom line is Guyot produces the most consistent yields from year to year.”

Garbriele Gorelli MW

The outlook for 2025 is arguably the most promising since 2021 and without there having been any significant frost events. The overall consensus is one of extreme positivity and that includes a high quantity of fruit. A rainy Spring beget a fresh July, followed by not just a warm but caldissimo days beginning in mid-August. Also some rain and therefore humidity but nothing overly detrimental to the plants and ripeness continued along a measured path. Sugars developed into moderately elevated ripeness at the end of the month, comfortably controlled by day for night temperature excursions well into September. The expansion and contraction of the skins created the requiem for gentle extractions and carefully executed pumpovers to nurture ’25’s tender sangiovese fruit.

At Capanna an experimental technique began in 2016 to be employed during fruit set whereby some basal leaves are removed, resulting in important actions for the fruit and vine. First to encourage a toughness in the developing skins, second to promote self-fortification during a stressful moment and third to elevate the poly-phenolic properties, acidity and also to promote a looser or less tight structure in the bunches. Ultimately to avoid disease pressure and equip the bunches for the rest of the growing season.

More harvest intel for the 2019 and 2020 vintages

Weather station data and interpretation reminds of higher rainfall in the 2019 Spring with a few further spikes in August and September. A total average of 400 mm across Biondi-Santi’s vineyards fell from April through September. After the rains of August 31 through to September 2nd the balancing of atmospheric conditions during a dry two weeks created ideal ripening conditions between September 10th and 15th. Harvest of 15 days lasted between the 14th and October 1st, save for a pause between the 22nd and 24th because of 50 mm of rain.

Harvest 2020 saw a 91 percent higher monthly minimum February average temperature than the norm from 1981-2010 and a monthly maximum February average temperature 26 percent higher than that of the same 30 year period. On the 26th of March a snowfall caused some damage to young buds in the vineyard. Average rainfall of 280 mm from April through September (230-320), the most at Greppo, least at Pievecchia. “A vintage of climate delicantenza,” is how it is described by Federico Radi, slowly, incrementally getting warmer, an indication of relative similar maximum average temperatures as compared to the previous 40 years. Then rains in August worked towards rebalancing the physiological state of the vines after a stressful Summer. Harvest was 10-plus days, from the 9th to the 21st of September, with rains at the end after picking was finished, including 68 mm on the 25th. “Easier than 2021,” tells Podere Brizio’s agronomist Lorenzo Bernini, “and more difficult than 2019. The most normal vintage in recent memory.” In other words, somewhere between moderate and difficult.

September 2025 Masterclass with Gabriele Gorelli MW: Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Montalcino is essentially a 17 km square, actually 17 x 18 and a terroir of great natural drainage. One of the region’s healthiest constants is its 44 percent of woodlands and 4,400 ha of vineyards are planted within the total surface area of 24,000. Rosso di Montalcino has increased from 510 to 860 hectares with 271 estates having been assigned a total of 352 hectares, in effect from the 2024 vintage, all from existing plantings that would have been Toscana IGT to eventually become Brunello. This raises the total production potential of four million to now five and a half million bottles. The thinking is ultimately to help producers adapt to different seasons, moving the needle in one way or another, to Rosso or Brunello. The destination of fruit per appellation is therefore fluid and producer defined. All this makes for a new dynamism in producing sangiovese in Montalcino. Age of the vines for Brunello must be 10 years and yet the average is actually more like 30.

From 2020 onwards the new way to approach and categorize Montalcino vintages is through the Brunello Forma. The new system replaces the old star ratings with three descriptive words to sketch each vintage. For 2025 the rubric is composed of “Captivating. Bright. Succulent.” Forma refers to the shape or fitness of a vintage, formulated through various studies, including weather data elaboration, bottle samples analyses and tastings by eight international MWs one month ahead of Benvenuto Brunello. The workgroup is led by Italian Masters of Wine Gabriele Gorelli and Andrea Lonardi. There have been 39 weather stations, owned or shared by wineries installed since 2019. Data from each individual weather station are correlated to a portion of territory, homogeneous in terms of altitude and slope exposure, occupied by a certain area of vineyards. Each single control unit is representative of a certain vineyard surface. The percentage of the surface represented, compared to the total vineyards of the denomination, is the weight that the weather station unit obtains in calculating the average of the values. In 2020, high temperatures in and around 35 degrees happened from July 20th through August 20th, followed by late August rainfall. In a nutshell, a tight window of harvest for 2020 occurred between September 12th and 20th, with worsening weather at the end of September. Here are the eight 2020 Brunello poured and tasted.

Brunello Masterclass

Aminta Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Southeast sector of Montalcino, in and around 400m of elevation, near to Castelnuovo dell’Abate off of Pietraforte with sand, silt and calcium carbonate. Also Formazione Silano, of schist, very stony and the presence of Galestro. The name Aminta is of Greek origin and means “defender” or “vindicator.” Derived from the ancient Greek word amyntor, it is also a classic name used in Italian culture and featured in the 16th-century pastoral drama Aminta by Torquato Tasso. Owned by the Cecchi family (of Chianti Classico) and this being their first Brunello vintage. Rough and tumble, chunky tannin, wood clanking through and time necessary to smooth out the details. Drink 2027-2029. Tasted September 2025

Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2020

A 50th anniversary vintage of Brunello that represents all four defined sectors of the region, with a minimum 25 plots contributing to the whole. Cutting edge technology eliminates unripe seeds in the sorting process during the first two days of fermentation. Good quality skins means 17-22 days of contact with them. Quite a savoury and crunchy time for Caparzo 2020, quick note of clove, wood still very much a factor but accessibility really beginning to take shape. Last tasted September 2025

Deeper now, into the 2020 well of fruit that feels layered and compact like compressed Galestro, held together by acidity and tannin. Truth for the interim but with time, say two, three or even four years that schist and clay will rise to the surface and begin to flake, to manifest as a Brunello that speaks in a clear vernacular for the vintage. Of the vintage, open and getable, willing to please with ultra correct style and proper generosity, though always on its own terms. Submit to its will, accept and appreciate the sentiment, await the reward. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2024

Collemattoni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Area of Sant’Angelo in Colle with some fruit also sourced in the southeast closer to Casetlnuovo dell’Abate, località Sesta. Small production, darker fruit with a sweetness of fruit doubled down by the impact of the wood. That would be 30 months in 32 hL Slavonian cask. Ready to be enjoyed by any measure. Last tasted September 2025

Should it be a surprise to find this 2020 to be as full, concentrated and appetizing as it quickly announces to be? Certainly not because fruit breadth is measurable and acidity marches along stride for stride. These are the effects of Botti aging in the most correct and commendable way, of spice and with a fine-grained tannic gait to add weight by way of freight. Solid conditioning which means longevity with very few pauses, certainly no dumb phases to await, not now, nor tomorrow and any stops along the way. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2024

Il Poggione Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Aged in 30 and 50 hL botti with as much dynamic fruit ability to mix and match from dozens of sangiovese blocks. Little movement in year two after release with a sweet Balsamico indicative of the vineyards’ south-central location and all the macchia that grows in the area. Distinct personality for a large production Brunello. On brand for the 2020 vintage. Last tasted September 2025

The summer was about as warm at they come but early September rains cooled the vineyards down and so a delay created an allowance to harvest at “normal” times. The Brunello comes from vines aged to a minimum of 25 years and up to 60 from across 140 hectares of estate vineyards around the hill and village of Sant’Angelo in Colle. The vineyards range in elevation from 140 to 400-plus meters and it is this mix that allows for what is arguably Montalcino’s most consistent Annata Brunello to be made, vintage in and vintage out. A season that gifts purity of red fruit with a decided pomegranate-citrus zesty character, a brightness that is a mix of estate style and the year’s input, an aromatic wave that oscillates upon a line created and always connected to the base. Finely chalky and expressive, open and a mid-term ager available to a wide range of palates. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

From the area of Canalicchio (di Sopra), almost a one man winery with a vineyard on the highest amount of clay (and tufo) leading to a chalky profile. Classic Brunello spiciness and a piquancy with amazing tension because of the push-pull posit tug between impressive fruit weight and the austerity of tannin. Fierce and in control, near-searing, with importance of intensity. Consistent with the 2018 by Lombardi which means for 2020 it’s a bit atypical. An emotive wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted September 2025

San Polo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Aging is done in 10,20 and 40 hL cask for 30 months. Showing its silken and polished style with mahogany red fruit and the scents of caramel and soy. More like caramelized plums and citrus with a mild bitterness at the finish. Hard to argue against the style being just a bit Venetian. Last tasted September 2025

A blend of the estate’s vineyards and without a doubt one of the first Brunello ‘20s you should consider getting to know. As with Rubio, Rosso and Vignamasso this is another imminently drinkable wine, an ideal sangiovese for the table without a worry that austere tannins are going to get in the way. Full and substantial with great acids and that iron meets Galestro mineral swath that runs through most of San Polo’s wines. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted November 2024

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Showing some reduction 10 months later and also an herbaceous character with the presence of essential oils. Gabriele Gorelli M.W. describes this as a “noisy” wine, translation “in a current state of unsettled behaviour,” with blood orange and ultimately umami running through. There is an unbridled sense of intensity and passion going on here. Last tasted September 2025

Reserved and rather quiet for a Talenti Annata to speak of a timely and exacting harvest pick, fruit caught right at the moment the grapes might have chosen to part from their spurs, were you to ask them when that should be. The restraint and also ideally captured acidity put this 2020 Brunello in the zone where tannic freight can rumble comfortably through and the sangiovese is therefore carried forward with a great fission of energy yet to be released. Not sure many will understand this wine in its first three years but there should be little doubt that it will age with the best of the vintage. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2024

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Oliveto P.56 2020

Marginal place at the southeast border of the appellation, few vineyards nearby and abutting Maremma across the Orcia River. Nearly a year strengthens the leathery character of the wine with liquid chalky texture, ever so slightly coarse and so very real. Only Slavonian wood used, 20 and 35 hL, with some whole bunch fermentation making for a small amount of stemminess. Truthful example off Brunello di Montalcino. Last tasted September 2025

A fine and structured Brunello from 2020, bones solid, skeletally upright and with some flesh hanging taut for longevity to exceed some previous vintages. Tart and edgy at times, dusty and fresh, sweetly volatile, a cracker sangiovese that so properly represents the southerly reaches from a less than compact, dense and concentrated vintage. A proper wine made with care, ultra correct and one to pour, teach and explain what 2020 Montalcino truly is. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2024

Northeast Montalcino at Canalicchio

In September of 2025 Godello was joined by best travel mate Michaela Morris, Brad Royale, Julie Garton and Igor Ryjenkov MW for a Squadra Canadese journey through Montalcino. Visits were made at Camigliano, Castelgiocondo, Villa Le Prata, La Fortuna, Patrizia Cencioni, Tenute Silvio Nardi, Ruffino Greppone Mazzi, Banfi and Canalicchio di Sopra. Miha and Mihe continued with calls at L’Aietta, Argiano and Gorelli. Finally Godello made a Sunday morning drop-in with le donne at Le Potazzine. In November of 2025 Miha and Mihe resumed their check-ins at Castello Tricerchi, Podere Brizio, Capanna, Il Marroneto, Biondi-Santi, Aminta, Molino di Sant’Antimo and Franco Pacenti. Godello’s last two visits were with Poggio Landi and Giodo. Benvenuto Brunello 2025 was without question another smashing success, with thanks as always to director Andrea Machetti, Marketing and Communication Manager Carlotta Salvini, the Consorzio’s new President Giacomo Bartolommei and the sommeliers from AIS Siena. The breakdown of the 285 wines tasted and reviewed in September and November is as follows: Rosso di Montalcino DOC (45); Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021 (125); Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020 (33); Older Brunello di Montalcino (and Riserva) DOCG (71); Toscana IGT and other wines (11).

Southwest Montalcino at Argiano

Rosso di Montalcino DOC

Aminta Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

The 2024 vintage marks a 180 degree turn from 2023 and the challenge could not have been greater for a team still in the throes of earliest stages about learning their three distinct vineyards. The purity, vision and intonement are much clearer for a Rosso that brings the elevations of Pian Bossolino and Cantina vineyards together. More Pietraforte stoniness, less dusty character and more clarity to speak for the duality of fruit. Acidity has heightened through the positivity of its natural sweetness and 2024 will almost certainly mark the beginning of deeper understanding just six years after the purchase of the estate. Will be released sometime in 2026. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

The most new and unusual vintage, hot in August and rainy through September for an aromatically perfumed vintage with low alcohol at 13 point something percent. Bernardino believes it is truly a reflection of climate change, coming from the seas and their effect on storms and unusual weather patterns. He also believes Montalcino may be benefiting from this, especially if you are an estate that has the means to combat climate extremes. Argiano is blessed to have some control and so a vintage like 2024 comes out singing with fruit freshness, bright shine and exuberance. Then again there is a sneaky acid-tannin chain working as one that will se some longevity for a Rosso most people won’t imagine that to be possible. Drink 2025-2029.Tasted September 2025

Camigliano Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

As challenging a vintage as they come, a rainy spring, dry summer and in September eight to the days of rain. Hard to choose when to harvest and a threat to organic agriculture. Stringent selection of grapes from a harvest with variable ripenesses. Mainly and usually fruit from the youngest vineyards and also those vines growing in the sandiest soils. Easy-drinking Rosso in any case, youthful and fresh, void of tannin, dare it be said…gamay like. Fruity, pretty and with a gentle carbonic pulse. Drink this bowl of fresh cherries early and often. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted September 2025

Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Stony Rosso di Montalcino, clearly conceived for Rosso’s sake and marked by elastic tension. Early drinking proposition, as it should be, all the crisp notes played in fine tuning. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Caprili Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Unique Rosso di Montalcino and if produced for easy drinking available to all, think again because there’s more to this 2024. Reflections of the vintage are clear and transparent but underneath there is some grip, phenolic presence and executive function by design. Feels like the extra stuffing is a matter of purpose. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Carpineto Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Very pretty Rosso di Montalcino that when tasted in the midst of many Brunello truly stands out alone to express its appellative character. Freshness and lightness with some olive oil pastry on the palate and fine if not aggressive tannin. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Castello Tricerchi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Freshest of vintages for sangiovese and the most refreshing change for Montalcino, exemplified in this wide open Rosso. Like a cool and windy blue sky November day in Montalcino. Just enough chalky liquid limestone underlay below the sweetness of a natural wine’s beautiful fruit. Do not come looking for spice, by wood or otherwise, nor body neither. Piedmontazine macerating transmogrifying into aging methodology might lead you to think Langhe Nebbiolo, but sangiovese from Montalcino is the measure, truth and the performance. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Fattoria dei Barbi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Youthful yet approachable Rosso di Montalcino with the stamp of 2024 and its lighter disposition. Then again there is consistently some weight and also wood to this, no different here, no matter the season. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted November 2025

Gianni Brunelli – Le Chiuse di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Rich and to be honest luxurious Rosso di Montalcino, extraordinary really for the 2024 vintage. So much for all the wines being light as a feather. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2025

Francesco Mulinari, L’Aietta

L’Aietta Rosso di Montalcino DOC Atia 2024

“Making a Rosso di Montalcino in amphora is romantic for me,” explains Francesco Mulinari, “because it comes from the land.” An amphora from the producer Tava cooked at 1200 degrees celsius, as opposed to many cured at 800, or qvevri at 600. Makes it less porous and more suitable for sangiovese and Rosso di Montalcino. Born in amphora and put straight to bottle, after six months of skin contact and maybe just 12 hours in stainless to clean and stabilize. Natural, pure, tannins extracted low and slow, verdant but not wooden and the chains are just the same. The flavour is purely and distinctly sangiovese, the wine called Atia, an Etruscan name for the god of the afterlife. A correct Rosso that both pushes the boundaries and connects the dots. Tannins dry in the end, unlike the smooth kind by wood and textural complexity is the bonus feature. Drink 2025-2028.Tasted September 2025

Patrizia Cencioni Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

Spices on the nose, rising tones, a struck tuning fork of red fruit reverberating until it fades out. Viscous mouthfeel and plummy with the red fruit tang. Neither high in acid nor phenolic of grip but somewhere comfortably in between. Correct, proper and solid Rosso for vintage and place. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Pietroso Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

One of the bigger and yet not more powerful of the Rosso di Montalcino while there are few that find this level of harmony and balance. Fantastic and inviting fruit profile, as Brunello or here as it is Rosso, if for the estate not the same level of structure or age-ability. That is the crux of their situation and so two things or truths are here. Drink now with pleasure and feel confident to age five years. Maybe more. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2025

Talenti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024

The Rosso bodes well for 2024 with its clarity, transparency and brightness. The truth spoken and delivered without pause or distraction, ready to please right now. Looking forward to the coming Brunello experience three years further down the road. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

Aminta Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Of the six hectares planted to sangiovese at Aminta, two point seven are classified as and dedicated to Rosso di Montalcino. The ’23 yields were clearly lower because of the Peronospora vintage but what remains is fresh, ripe, well-seasoned and macchia-dusty sangiovese. Rosso is a mix of Pian Bossolino plus Cantina (at Aminta) vineyard fruit and as a factor it is the Pietraforte that gives this wine a two-thirds sandy-stony feel. No worry about pushed extraction and instead come for a restrained, respectful, stony and as it is said, proprio Rosso. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

The hardest working Montalcino team making use of the most empirical data is sure to deliver a Rosso so distinctly Biondi-Santi, torch in hand abiding to all that has come before. The perfumes are the proof, namely of agriculture and because of the most difficult vintage in surely 25 years. A melting pot of aromas and flavours, gastronomical soup of seasoning, dashes of this and that, salt and pepper, aromatics pulled from so many places. Runs through the middle of 100 years of ripenesses, body, textures, acidities and overall structure, finishing with the best harmony achievable for the vintage. Never to forget the rains, Peronospora, frost and hail events, summer temperature spikes and all that kept a team on their toes for five consecutive months. The 2023 Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino has weathered the storm to come away beautiful. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Not a Rosso vintage because of the Peronospora challenge but those who made any quantity did so as a choice to abide by always producing Rosso. As here and never taken for granted but instead with great focus and precision. Like finding a friend and sharing a bottle, here Rosso is joyous and comforting, there for a good laugh, full of energy. Pour for those who love Montalcino and they will feel like Brunello is in their glass. Pour for others who do not know or understand sangiovese and they will never go back. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Capanna Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Self-prescribed and professed traditional Rosso and structurally that would be accurate, however the sleek mouthfeel would suggest a more modern approach. There are 12 hectares of (classified) Brunello and 4.5 of Rosso, with some of the Brunello fruit joining the Rosso ranks. This is a matter of selection and also a necessity to provide the substance for a Capanna Rosso to handle oak aging. Acidity is particularly special for 2023 and the liquid chalky character suggests a run forward, potentially six years further. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Castello Tricerchi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

The tragedy of 2023, a vintage of Peronospora and hail, resulting in 60-plus percent loss for Tommaso Squarcia. Deeper richness and concentration from 2023 without any quanity unfortunately but fruit quality and compaction of tannin are strong. The Piedmontazine maceration into aging style brings the sleek mouthfeel and length. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Ultra engaging and appealing Rosso di Montalcino from a master of the appellative craft, not only for drinking with immediate gratification but also to lay away and know that ten years (or more) will surely work to its benefit. The quality of the fruit, temperate ability of acidity and overall emotion are all as fine and prepared as ever. Blue chip Rosso di Montalcino stock. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2025

Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Unmistakable estate sangiovese, Brunello or Rosso, here the latter and with thanks to the house for making any at all. Rosso as Rosso for Monday though Friday, weekends too. Red fruit in flight, high in tone, warm of colour, easy on the palate. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

One of the more perfumed Rosso di Montalcino for the vintage and that is saying something because there are many. A season of challenge and this feels to have met the issues and played the cards dealt, to come away more than relatively unscathed. A pure and decoded sangiovese in the Rosso idiom that speaks in a clear language for all to understand. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

With Donatella Cinelli Colombini and Violante Gardini

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Delectability in Rosso di Montalcino from the lowest quantity vintage and for the house a consistency of quality across the board. An appellative paradox but accepted in this world of farming and producing wine. This 2023 is made by a pioneer in summarily ways with a result as democratic as it is a leading example for Montalcino. Drink anytime or hold for up to five years. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Elia Palazzesi Rosso di Montalcino DOC Collelceto 2023

Now that is a bloody delicious Rosso di Montalcino – Both times tasted. Sharp and juicy, fruit forward yet undercut by a lightning strike of mineral presence. Purposed and persistent. Top echelon sangiovese food wine. Go to town. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Fanti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Darker fruit for Rosso di Montalcino and all the better for it in this 2023 vintage. Concentrated beyond the pale and the norm, but again the inner workings of this example demand the material. Drink early and preferably with ragù, even better if made with cinghiale. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Franco Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

A short stay in wood, quite significantly less than that of the grippy 2022 and that hot vintage. Makes for a more elegant Rosso and Lorenzo Pacenti says “it’s important for Rosso to not be too concentrated a wine,” which this is certainly not. Understated power and concentration actually, an aromatic stunner of floral perfumes, red roses and a distillate of the flowers so glycerol in texture. Stylish for Rosso, seductive and finishing with some palate coating warmth. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Perfect everyday Rosso di Montalcino predicated on red fruit at the height of availability and without the encumbrance of overwrought pressing, wood or structure. Comes at the palate in manageable and controllable ways, then leaves nothing but sangiovese footprints. Ideal for all. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

L’Aietta Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Only stainless for the fermentation process, 70 percent goes to Slavonian cask (for a guarantee of aging), 30 percent in steel for freshness and in the end the wine is re-blended after aging. Plenty of tension and intensity, especially considering the fruit all comes from Castelnuovo dell’Abate. With thanks to the schistous marl soil manifested as Galestro, creating notable but not austere or drying tannins. This is in fact a Rosso to age. Average production is 2,500-3,000 bottles but in 2023 only 800 due to August 17th golf balls sized hail in Castelnuovo dell’Abate and also cinghiale at L’Aietta in Montalcino. Drink 2026-2030.Tasted September 2025

La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Not an easy vintage because of so much Spring rain with (Peronospora) disease pressure, vine leaves always wet day and night. Many treatments, “24, mama mia,” says Angelo and it was impossible to consistently get through all 18 hectares as necessary. There was loss (30 percent) but not a disaster compared to many neighbours. The Rosso ages 12 months and yes the wood is felt as far as Rosso goes, however those who like the style and especially ready to drink Brunello will adore this firm and traditional character. Overall the ’23 is a seriously competent and proper Rosso with side accents of macchia and Balsamico. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2025

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Memory traces back to first tasting this Rosso di Montalcino nine months ago and that recall is like looking in a mirror. This ’23 moment is an exact reflection of the first, uncanny and wonderment asks what wizardry could this be? How can fruit caught at optimum phenolic ripeness be unchanged with so much time having passed? How can the pitch perfect acidity react with the fruit and come away as accurate in this moment? How is any of this possible? “Ours is not to reason why, ours is but to taste and try.” Last tasted November 2025

“Another unique aspect of ’23 was the colour of the skin – black, not blue, like pinot noir. It usually looks like the colour of the blue ocean and in 2023 it was darker.” The words of Lorenzo Magnelli. Aromatic and fruity, like raspberry and currant but really floral, right form the very beginning.” Truth spoken and persistent from a vigorous season and Magnelli always picks at sunset when the temperatures are lowest. A unique Rosso for Le Chiuse and by extrapolation also the vintage, drinking dutifully and beautifully right away and while it may not seem so structured these tannins are quite sneaky. “A Rosso di Montalcino that goes straight to the point.” You get exactly what it and Lorenzo are saying. You listen and you like the story. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Le Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Rosso 2023 is still very young, the aromatics still demure with the knowable perfumes waiting because they take a minimum two years to come out. The scents are certainly pretty, floral and like the flowers of herbs and aromatic brush in late Spring. Palate tells another story (for Rosso) with darker red fruit, firm grip, tight acidity and implosive intensity. Having tasted this previously there is a confirmation of 2023 being a longer to live and persist kind of vintage. A reminder 39 days of maceration with three pumpovers per day. All of the fruit is certified as Brunello, save for what goes into the IGT. Approximately 20-25 less production from 2023. Last tasted September 2025

The sangiovese on Le Potazzine’s property desires the botti for structure and complexity, especially because the average alcoholic fermentation is 40-50 days, longer than just about any in all of Montalcino. Freshness incarnate with a great focus on and of focused acidity, blessed with all the energy of Gigliola, Viola and Sofia combined. The winemaking team of three, mother and two daughters, makers of sangiovese unlike the rest. Of elevation and revelation for Rosso. No diss to 2022 but ’23 is out of this world. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024

Molino di Sant’Antimo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

One of the most floral Rosso di Montalcino, purest of red berries, nary a moment of earthy or dusty character. Kind of salty when you consider the mineral elements that clearly come from the vineyard. “Sometimes vintages are salty and others not so much,” says Valeria Vittori. ‘This one is salissimo.” She’s right – this is truly salty. The finish exhibits a bit of a kick so let this sit until the Spring and drink comfortably for four years more. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

Patrizia Cencioni Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Organic in the vineyard but not certified. Due to extreme rains in May and June eighteen treatments were used in 2023, as compared to the average of 10. Made using fruit from the youngest vineyards, aged in the largest casks in the winery, French and Slavonian, 26 and 42 hL sizes. A Rosso of extreme perfumes, fresh roses, fennel, liquorice and spices in an aromatic concentration aided by much of the fruit either dropped or made into 5,000 bottles of Rosato. Crunchy and sneaky structured with some elements that just feel like Brunello, namely depth and structure. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted September 2025

Podere Brizio Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

The Brizio Rosso is clearly in the same family as the Landi in terms of richness and concentration but what elevates are in added complexities, namely from location and experience. Vine age, southwest Montalcino geology and climate bring layers and different quality of tannin, also for Rosso. This ’23 has already come to a drinkable place and will pair dutifully with all the antipasti and primi piatti you might wish to bring to the table. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Landi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Ripe and fine-grained textural Rosso, wood factoring in spice and mouthfeel. Vinification in steel, 12 months in several sizes of botti. No concrete talks like in Dievole though that may change for the future. A real red citrus mixed with cherry stone bitters feel to ’23, specific to vintage meeting the north by northeast Montalcino location. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

San Guglielmo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Notably sweet acidity is the catalyst to elevate grip for this proper and bountiful Rosso. Shows the human side of the appellation with a producer’s unselfish approach to delivering great quality no matter the challenges or circumstances. Their gift is our fortune and 2023 is what we want to drink. Guessing it’s also their’s. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2023

Still such a strong effort for Rosso 2023, fruit quite ripe, deftly extracted and macerated for an example with sweetness and a walk through the sottobosco. The mixing in of earthy character sets this above so many that only bring fruit and not much else. Proper does not of enough to explain the top quality Rosso coming from this estate. Last tasted November 2025

Sister property Voliero opens with easy access, as does Uccelliera but there is more structure in this 2023 Rosso. Was not fully expected but there it is as verticality and while not exactly closed – it’s not an open book by any stretch. Use your imagination to look ahead and be prepared for a sangiovese equipped to unravel over a long and slow period of time. Masterful example for the vintage. “The starting point for the territory and the wine that proves the ability of Montalcino is Rosso.” His explanation and Andrea Cortonesi will never take this wine for granted. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

The ’22 Rosso has now been in bottle two years following one year in barrel and that after fermentation in wood. Rich layering of red berries and local tree fruit for a most enjoyable Rosso you just want to drink. Then there are the sneaky moments of structure and grip to see the ‘22 Rosso age slowly for a good five-plus year run. Good and crunchy, herbal and tight at the finish. Yet another Gorelli sangiovese of clarity and promise. Drink 2026-2029. Last tasted September 2025

Il Marroneto Rosso di Montalcino DOC Iacopo 2022

The 2022 represents the latest Rosso vintage and the one that will remain for a spell because there was none made in 2023, only Brunello. Obviously well structured to be a Rosso from vineyards classified as Brunello. Not to mention a vintage were the barrels all exhibited more structure than usual. There are Rosso di Rosso, Rosso and this as Rosso by Rosso. Hard to fathom tannins could be this ripe and ripped for a sangiovese of appellate depth. “I like this Rosso, otherwise I wouldn’t put my name on it” says Iacopo Mori. He’s drinking this vintage right now, “but not everyday” he laughs. Same. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2022

A few years of aging is so righteous for this Rosso, taking it out of a vertical climb and into a place where the fruit stretches elastic out and back. A Rosso now ready for the market, though honestly it would already have been there some time ago. Soft and generous, a pulpy flesh of stone fruit from the tree into the hand even before it falls from the stem. Kind of the point don’t you think? Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

Val di Suga Rosso di Montalcino DOC Vigna Spuntali 2022

Vigna for Rosso di Montalcino and also age, up to two years longer than the 2024s that will come to market starting in January 2026. Implosive red citrus, zesty in a grippy and structured example of the Rosso. No need to request more spirit with all the pent up energy to make one forget about things like concentration and texture. Sangiovese is want to pop on the palate and this 2022 is relentless in that pursuit. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino DOC Sella del Leccio 2021

Technically a Rosso di Montalcino though the vineyard could very well be given over to Brunello with soils similar to those in Vigna del Suolo. Made since 2019, organic since the beginning and 15 months of aging in barrel before bottling 1,500 total bottles. Bernardino Sani loves this vineyard, Vigna del Leccio, a place that delivers more form grip and concentration for Rosso. A saltiness runs through with a proper sourness and the intention is not just real, but realized. Seriously grippy Rosso with great potential for aging. Drink 2026-2030.Tasted September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Just 10 months forward and still freshness with not a single moment of oxidation defining the 2021 Rosso. Again, Francesco makes a Rosso that will not make a Brunello, if mainly because two more years in wood will oxidize the wine. Best young but there are easily five to seven years left in terms of potential for this wine . Last tasted September 2025

What is Rosso di Montalcino for Francesco Ripaccioli? “Put the wine in a reduction tank, a.k.a. the bottle,” he says with utmost seriousness. Here is how his Rosso is made, by tasting through barrels and finding wines that will only have the structure to become a “base” Brunello and Ripaccioli does not make that kind of wine. That may sound a bit elitist but it’s not – and also true. Selling less expensive Brunello may be attractive to the market and easier but Francesco will not take these kinds of short cuts. So now you know what a Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso really is. As for 2021 the concentration is at the peak for the DOC and if you slipped this blind into a Brunello tasting not a single taster would pull this as the ringer. But it is a different wine and needs to be treated and respected that way, to think of its potential as that of its character. Still the extract, pH, structure and even acidity are at levels that will see this travel across decades. Oxidation? Not a chance. This could stay in bottle before releasing it until 2025 but it was released in January 2023. For the market. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2024

Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2021

Warm and dry summer months followed the spring frost for smaller berries, lower yields and concentrated wines, including at the Rosso appellative level. Similar if just slightly less glycerol to 2020 but surely more spice and exuberance. Really full and promising Rosso that just seems to express the best of all worlds for this style of sangiovese. This is the vintage with balance and sapidity, Tuscan style, with a longer finish. Last tasted September 2025

Sweet fruit and availability with an underbelly of sweeter tannin. Chocolate and plums, flavourful and drying at the finish. Good acidity to be sure will help age this a few years . Tasted November 2024

That rare and favourable combination of rich and drinkable, a Rosso certifiably composed or Rosso sake. Perfectly ripened, fruit and acidity, classic if modern and clean, pure and reputable Rosso style. A mix of spice and sweetness so that all falls into place, especially for the palate. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2020

The 2020 remains in a perfectly fresh state, especially on the palate. That and a full red glycerol fruit vintage with a really seductive personality. Tasting at peak right here and now. Tasting side by side with the 2022 Rosso makes you realize just how tight that vintage is today. Then again the ’20 has just that small amount of tautness in tannin still to resolve. Drink 2025-2027. Last tasted September 2025

La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino DOC Special Late Release 2019

A selection of the (27 Hl) Slavonian Botte Grande and aged six months longer than the “normal” Rosso, released the following year for specific markets, in this case Montréal. The purpose is to position the wine somewhere between the Rosso and the Brunello and in fact the fruit comes from Brunello classified vineyards. Quasi de-classified in that sense but the concept is determined by export and wholesale price. First vintage was 2016 and while this really does fit the middle bill, there is more substance, grip and elasticity than Rosso. The acidity is quite elevated, though without any noticeable volatility and the wine speaks of the zone more than anything. The fruit only comes from the homefront to explain this extraordinary acidity translating as freshness, intensity, excitement, energy and finally the inducement of salivation. Rosso “Riserva” of seduction. Drink 2025-2030.Tasted September 2025

With Michaela Morris and Giulia Cecchi at Aminta

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Aminta – Famiglia Cecchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The label design for the coming January release of Aminta’s 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is inspired by a modern abstract painting by Giulia Cecchi’s grandmother Anita Sardelli, her given name combined with Monte Amiata as the handle for the newest Montalcino estate. The final kicker that encouraged the family to choose this name was the pastoral Torquato Tasso opera that finishes at a natural hot spring, which Aminta incidentally happens to have right next to the Cantina vineyard. Aging in French and Austrian tonneaux supplies plenty of wood seasoning though the fruit is able to climb through. That said another year is needed to see that to fruition and then we might see the clarity of winemaker Alessandra’s clean and precise style. The mix of the three Brunello vineyards, Cantina, Caselle and Pian Bossolino are all appropriately represented with Caselle more in control in the earlier stages of evolution. This is the beginning of something worth staying in full contact with, of a Cecchi family Brunello putting in the time, thought, energy and passion to create something new, worthy and proper for Montalcino. 6,200 bottles produced. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Aminta – Famiglia Cecchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Gli Amici 2021

Friendly sangiovese from these early days of Cecchi’s foray into Montalcino at Aminta with fruit sourcing threefold. Meanwhile the team digs sample pits in the vineyards, tests soils and figures out which block determines as the most singular for Etichetta and soon to be Vigna Brunello. For now there are Cantina, Bossolino and Cassele for Gli Amici and this most nurturing 2021. There is some dusty macchia and very noticeable local Balsamico to meet the stylish plum fruit in a Brunello that should rightly be predicated on its acidity. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Fermentation part in stainless and part in concrete, malo in cement and then racked to casks, from 15 to 50 hL sizes. More or less 30 months, a blend of different blocks, a passage in cement and bottled in June. Noted firmness and grip straight from the nose with a purity of red fruit in the most tangible Brunello di Montalcino way. You can’t deny the cherry quality, nor will any taster ignore the genius of a masterful acumen in blending many blocks and barrels into a sophisticated sangiovese. Acidity is the driver as always, travelling, unraveling, rewinding and repeating the processes forever on the palate. Long for a Brunello Classico, normal for an Argiano Annata. Drink 2026-2031.Tasted September 2025

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Suolo 2021

The mix of one year in (12 hL) Taransaud and two further in (15 hL) Garbellotto botti are the impetus, catalysts and ideal vessel voyage for Argiano’s out important sangiovese, here from a top ranking vintage with a moderate and accepted 30 percent loss to the April frost. Most important is to walk the spongy clay soils of the six hectare vineyard with a limestone content in the marl that rivals any in the whole of Montalcino. Also to witness the enormity of fossil shells in Francesco’s office to understand the history of geology and the ocean that once covered the land. Don’t forget the two streams that contain the long Suolo blocks, once bigger rushing rivers and now the silty alluvial deposits they have left behind. If the Classico Brunello holds an impressive level of grip then bear witness to Vigna del Suolo with its impressive and authoritative level of control, stoicism and restraint. Bottle aging is essential because well, sangiovese, although one would have to be without working senses to not see the beauty right here, right now. Once the wine has aged a further XTC years the purity, acidity and faultless tannin will find the senses working overtime. “Trying to take this all in. I’ve got one, two, three, four, five.” Or twenty years to enjoy the results. Drink 2028-2040.Tasted September 2025

Armilla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Sangiovese in all its obvious and proprietary glory comes from a restrained and correct 2021 Brunello. A crunchy and as they say croccante 2021 with savoury herbaceous bits and juicy proverbial bleed of Jove to cast and cake the palate while never allowing the brain to forget that this is the real sanguis Jovis sangiovese from Montalcino. Could never deny the importance of that kind of thought, or sensation. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

La Famiglia Camigliano

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Not only recently bottled (in May) but also more quantity of bottles as we speak and taste the youthful exuberance of this 2021 Brunello. Consistently and already at this stage one of the more silken and glycerol inflected sangiovese, here from a significant (94 hectares and fourth largest) production in the southwest of Montalcino. A selection (separating Rosso from Brunello) for which choices are made from year to year. A pure sangiovese syrup defining the mix of vintage and style, refined and perhaps many characteristics shared with that of 2015. That said it was 2001 the last time there was a vintage with this combination of April frost, high quality fruit and ultimately balance. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted September 2025

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Paesaggio Inatesso 2021

Lower production due to the April frost, “a natural selection” says winemaker Sergio Cantini, with full yields in the upper blocks and 90 percent loss down below. In the end full production was 170,000 bottles as compared to a normal amount of 200,000, a 30 percent drop overall. The Etichetta label is a selection of quality and still made with the extra layer of concentration duty noted. A more structured sangiovese, less forthright and not yet giving itself away. Stylistically consistent but there is no doubt this selezione will be the more attractive wine. Ages in the Grandi Botti, new to four years old for a production of 30,000-40,000 bottles, on the lower side for 2021. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Stellar vintage with just over 10 percent loss in the Brunello Classico because of the April frost, though in the end the balance on the vines created the end game result. “We can’t talk about the balance of 2021 without the frost,” says Francesco Ripaccioli. “That is the paradox of the vintage.” You note, consider and feel the harmony from the first, through a continuance, in perpetuity, until the glass and bottle are done. A saline streak runs through, owing to schistous rocks manifested as Galestro interacting with calcium carbonate and Canalicchio’s various types of vineyard clays. There have been elegant Brunello is this estate’s tenure but the initial response from 2021 considers that adjective like never before. The highest dry extract ever matched by top ranking acidity is surely the reason, explained in a most simplified form. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna La Casaccia 2021

You might want to think about what a single vineyard of cru Brunello means to you before tasting a sangiovese like Vigna La Casaccia. Why? Because this may not be what you expected, a serious wine without heft or the type of concentration you may think fulfills that definition. Instead there is freshness and restraint, of sweet clay and more alcohol (at 15 percent) because when phenolic maturity arrives the sugars have already climbed to that level. This is Casaccia and yet acidity does the yeoman work to elicit that vineyard’s magic and be sure to deliver its pleasure. A wine made exactly as the vineyard demands while that freshness shows strong four years after vintage is the catalyst to drive the point across. Bigger in a way, but all in balance. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2021

The aromatic profile is simply different to that of La Casaccia with location and soil composition being the reasons why. Less clay, more schistous stone come up to the surface as Galestro to see a change in structure, both of fruit and also tannin. More power, grip and trenchant intendment from Montosoli. All this and low lying greenery in the macchia spectrum, verdancy matched by a subtle natural sweetness though the brushy biodiversity surrounding the Montosoli hill can’t help but determine the aromatic course of this sangiovese. Again, bigger in a way, like Casaccia, not as obviously generous but frankly more complex. Drink 2028-2039. Tasted September 2025

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

No major frost issue for Capanna, with thanks to late pruning well into March and the end result for harvest was not considered a loss, but one of medium production. Not to mention this being an absolute classic Brunello di Montalcino and also one that represents the traditional yet luxe character of one from Capanna. Spot on, focused, precise and correct. The spirit of the north. Bottled approximately one year ago for 40,000 bottles produced, on average from vintage to vintage. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Nicco 2021

An experimental technique began in 2016 (first year of Nicco) to be employed during fruit set whereby some basal leaves are removed, resulting in important actions for the fruit and vine. First to encourage a toughness in the developing skins, second to promote self-fortification during a stressful moment and third to elevate the poly-phenolic properties, acidity and also to promote a looser or less tight structure in the bunches. Ultimately to avoid disease pressure and equip the bunches for the rest of the growing season. All this for a 2021 Nicco single vineyard sangiovese that may just be the finest Brunello ever made at Capanna. Glorious fruit, high acid sweetness, fineness of sleek tannin and harmonious every moment you spend with this Brunello. Poly-phenolic properties exude from a non-plussed sangiovese that went through its suffering long before ripeness ever began to set in. Sound from vision and humility by way of soul. There are 7,000-8,000 bottles of Nicco produced, on average. Drink 2028-2039. Tasted November 2025

Capanne Ricci Tenimenti Ricci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Higher tonality for 2021, acidities manifold to direct the destiny of a dusty, racy and rising sangiovese. Settle into itself on the palate with juicy fruit and that feeling of land able to store and reserve water to survive drought, ever so slowly releasing to itself. Here a Brunello refusing to let the tannins dry out on the palate. Successful vintage for this estate. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Take what you know or think you know about 2021 Brunello di Montalcino and do two things. First consider the vineyard, keep the rocks and stones in mind, the sandy clay and how they all might influence a vine and its fruit. Second exaggerate what you think that effect might be and concentrate these thoughts. It is then that you will see how the declarative hue and aromatic intensity of this Montalcino sangiovese are the product of place. Then it becomes all to clear what that means for 2021, closed in this earliest stage, potentially explosive and ready to burst. For Caparzo the time will come soon enough. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Casa 2021

Curious to note the reactive and still reductive state of the 2020 Caparzo (Riserva) and the lack thereof in this 2021 Vigna. La Casa is an entity unto itself, layered of the schist-strewn Galestro vineyard’s elemental gifts while not compact or mired in mitre or weight. Notably stoic, confident and organized for a slow, incremental and step-by-step approach to maturity. Hard to imagine there will be any change at all in the next few, perhaps even five years. A recognizable cru wine for northerly Montalcino, regardless of vintage. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2025

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Another shade of richer fruit than sister property Armilla, lower in tone and bigger of flesh, ripeness at next level and intensity to match the elevated qualities that ultimately result in big time complexity. Serious sangiovese for the 2021 vintage. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted November 2025

Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Quiet and demure aromas for the house, a sweet rose floral note and red berry inclusive of leafy verdancy carrying over to the palate. Mouthfeel is silky for the vintage and the way these wines are usually perceived, as is the natural sweetness with only vague hints of macchia. Simplicity of pleasure gifted and received. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

La Squadra Canadese at Banfi

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Red fruit multifold, berries mostly and that rare sangiovese with a wild strawberry note. Glycerol, an oiliness and liquid chalky mouthfeel for a polished and satiny Brunello. You can still feel the presence of barriques though a few years forward that element will begin to fade from the profile. Still a bit of a flavouring agent though the vintage’s quality provides this large quantity Brunello with a core of fruit freshness. Production is 480,000-540,000 cases from a section chosen out of 173 hectares of vineyards. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2025

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Marrucheto 2021

The single Vigna Marrucheto takes up where Brunello leaves and exaggerates the riches of that large production wine. Produced since 2016, significantly smaller amount, a selection from three plots in 10 hectares for around 8,000 bottles. Vines are uniquely trained in this vineyard to a mix of Cordone Speronato and “Alberello Banfi.” The result is a full ripeness of plummy red fruit, a more soil and micro-climate derived macchia and mid-palate substance. Crunchy for Brunello with savour and linearity. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted September 2025

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggio alle Mura 2021

Though Poggio all Mura may have originally been conceived to make a wine of colour, muscles and especially wood, those days are in the past. No more bleeding off juice to increase colour and chance the loss of aromas. Gone are the comparisons or turns taken with Don Melchor at the top of 100 best lists and now this Brunello serves a new purpose. More about clonal selection and zonation, to express Banfi’s sector of Montalcino with sangiovese character and flavour. Medium-sized berries, middle of the road structure and Brunello di Montalcino identity. Approximately 38,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2030.Tasted September 2025

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Behold the sweetest vintage fruit captured at absolute peak ripeness, yet more than that the essentials encapsulate to regulate and dictate a northwestern Brunello di Montalcino’s future. A sangiovese of slow release, for qualities that will compound and gift new moments of higher truth with each passing month on the calendar for 15 years. Possibly even more because structure and what should be described as supple character can only develop a sangiovese this way. As fine as some vintages past have recently been, it is this 2021 that expresses essential ideals at the classic appellate level. Drink 2028-2038. Tasted November 2025

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Filo di Seta 2021

Massive aromatic attack, assault on the senses, classical movement rising to a crescendo. Fruit, spice and a toasted nuttiness unique to this and only this sangiovese. A perspective like no other, mimic of the vistas from the perch of the place, not to be fully grasped understood less you stand and look out with wonder from where the wines are raised. The 2021 runs like a stream through an untouched virgin forest, silken texture phantom threaded with the invisible filaments of finest tannin. The delicacy and subtlety of this wine will surely be the impetus to see it live 20-25 years, most of them in this original state. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2025

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

For Tommaso Squarcia the 2021 is more balanced than either 2019 or 2020 and in his mind, in a word, “perfect.” Picked in the first week of September, fermented in tonneaux, sent to tank under a submerged cap (Piedmontazine style) for six months and then finished in botti. Yes, six months. All the work that Tommaso has put in in his first seven years have come to this moment in his classic Brunello of northern Montalcino perfumes and mouthfeel of a kind and level never experienced before. Not from his sangiovese and not from 99 percent of Brunello made in the territory. Sleek and silken yes but more than that – something elastic, stretched and pliant, nimble and agile. The tannins follow suit and you can imagine their ebb, sway and flow for many years to come. “It’s not a legend of a vintage,” says Tommaso. “It’s very good and more personal.” The humility (e la vita) are beautiful. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A.D. 1441 2021

“This label was born with the submerged cap (Piedmontazine method of maceration into aging), but now it is everywhere in this winery.” Not 45 or 60 days but six months of cappella sommerso to add the sleekest mouthfeel an an already perfumed Brunello di Montalcino. The single vineyard is the saltiest of the Tricerchi Brunello, drawn from mid-slope where the most limestone filters through the soil. Tommaso Squarcia is preoccupied with pH and this is the lowest for these vineyards. Could this be a Riserva were it aged a year longer? Sure, but why and then no, because there is no tradition at Tricerchi and the A.D. 1441 carries more profound meaning as a Vigna wine. Drink 2028-2039. Tasted November 2025

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Highly perfumed sangiovese here for 2021, spices run amok as they season every moment spent with this unique Brunello. Exotics from spice island across several seas, a Zanzibar biriyani, a Madagascar pepper, Indian masala and Indonesian kretek. Imagine cumin, coriander, cinnamon, allspice and more, from all over the world to make sangiovese feel gastronomical, developed of flavours and alive. With thanks to fine acidity and underlay of horizontal tannin, there should be even more to come. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Campo del Drago 2021

Some Etichetta and Vigna Brunello are quite similar to and really just extensions of their Classico kin but in this situation Campo del Drago is really different to the Castiglion del Bosco Brunello. Well to be fair the wild spice notes are here, but other elements command attention, steal hearts and the show. Perfumes go floral and the gentle way they nurture the senses shows just how special this vintage is for the estate. There are but a few in their northwesterly location but 2021 succeeds up there with the best of the denomination. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

More than flesh here with a full and substantial syrup of sangiovese in the clearest vernacular spoken by a house that knows its way around modern Brunello di Montalcino. Richness incarnate, sleek and smooth, wood judiciously employed and the sort of sangiovese to woo just about anyone who looks to be impressed by Brunello. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna di Pianrosso 2021

Imagine the sleek and silky way a classico by Ciacci Piccolomini will seduce palates and then multiply that notion for an experience on an entirely different and higher level. Vigna di Pianrosso is the highest quality of ripening in fruit of experience in a single vineyard that has shown to develop quantifiable character on the estate. That and a quality or rather quantity of tannic freight that makes this Etichetta label exist someplace grand. There are a number of 2021 Brunello with a similar profile, rich and stony, grippy and forceful, time the operative to shed some of the rigidity and stress. A vertical sangiovese of a tall order will take some tome to soften and see to its fruition. Impressive 2021s for this historic estate in the southern reaches of the denomination. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Sleek, smooth and palate caressing 2021 Brunello di Montalcino with a feeling of calm and tranquility. A second sip brings the spice by cask and a drying tannic feeling to speak for a requiem of aging further in bottle before the best moments are to be experienced. Would suggest two years to allow the kind of integration that will open arms wide open and encourage top hospitality from this sangiovese of truly fine potential. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A Diletta 2021

Wealth of fruit fills a Vigna/Etichetta cup runneth over for a Brunello of elegance and grace. Then comes the structure to equip this sangiovese with all the necessary elements for aging, likely to extend well into the next decade. The fineness of texture and architecture could very well put this in any Montalcino category, but simply put it’s made for a daughter. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted November 2025

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

For 2021 a sangiovese of impressive perfume, a deep inhalant for the vintage, aromatically sweet and quite singular in that regard. A rich proposition, inviting, enticing and frankly seductive, classic for house and yet so forward thinking but also acting. No missing the tannic profile and ability to also command a structural proposition to see this travel long, and well. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

There are not many Brunello that show cards or wear hearts on sleeves this early in their tenure and then there are those that almost feel dangerous, with lurking character in shadows and fog. This is one such sangiovese, deep and mysterious, an opaque and beautifully swarthy example, clean yet composite, clear though currently complex. All sangiovese needs the bottle and this will require ample time, likely more than most out of 2021. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted November 2025

Corte dei Venti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

High toned and rising still, perfumed to the maximum and yet taut, caught in a stiff, wind, yet to glide free. No crust or crispy texture but surely layers of skin to peel away, years required to get at the flesh of this sangiovese. Impressive variegation and stature, not to mention stature for 2021 Brunello. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Quite the pure sangiovese yet singular, different, aromatic and textured of its own design. Accord as well, between various blocks where serious investigations attempt to disseminate what’s what, which is which and also what for. There is a sweet swarthy quality to 2021, clean and correct, acidity just about as fierce as the fruit and structured like the tannin. In a word, fine. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento 2021

Would wager a guess that this 2021 is the ripest of the four Vigna Brunello produced at this estate. Perhaps not the most structured in the squadra di quattro and yet there is plenty of stuffing to keep maturity far away while cask, fruit and tannic goods work forward together. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Fiore del Vento 2021

Tasting Fior di Vento side bye each with Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento makes one realize that the latter is tighter and delivers less immediate gratification. The floral perfume and pulchritude of pulpy red fruit is extraordinary in this sangiovese child of the wind. There is no mistaking its generosity and willingness to please. Some sneaky structure will aid and abet, but the best years will be early for this 2021. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Fior di Meliloto 2021

Deeper and to a degree more brooding with the fab four Vigna Brunello is Fior di Meliloto, the rhythm section, keeper of four-four time and the beat. The backbone behind the band, a star and unsung hero that makes sure everything else not only functions but delivers magic at the highest level. The fruit quality is impeccable in this flower child of a sangiovese, the timing sound and the vision unsung. Will age longer than anyone expects and probably look the same for as long as its parts each take care of their own abilities. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Campo Marzio 2021

The most expressive, effusive and excitable of the fab four would be the Campo Marzio, balladeer when the notes require passivity and screamer when necessary to get the message out, loud and clear. A sangiovese of dichotomy, giver of wisdom and beauty, fruit of the highest quality matched to backbone, but also greatest confidence that says take it or leave it. A 2021 Brunello that encourages a flexible and adaptable approach which means you should never feel obligated to agree, but are free to make a choice. Submits to nothing and creates art of the highest degree. Drink now or wait 20 years. Take what you want and leave the rest. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted November 2025

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Mannella 2021

If 2016 was the most democratic of Brunello di Montalcino vintages then from 2021 this may well be the most democratic and classic for sangiovese. This you feel from the very beginning, in aromas that invite yet do so of an gushing nature. They are floral and hint at something stony but do not commit one way or another. The palate presents a similar situation, beguiling though surely not gratuitous nor overarching of hastily remitted flavour. There is a subtlety about this 2021 and still nothing is taken for granted. The clarity and purity are both exemplary and aging potential will be long. Democratic speaker of sangiovese truth. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggiarelli 2021

Yes another democratic vintage Brunello if also delivered in deeper tone and understanding. More aromatic layers to shed, repeal and unfold, a greater set of complex tones and also for what comes after. From nose through palate, a pool of flavours resting in a deep well, warm as they are, fruit almost as syrup and still so properly elastic to say they will expand, contract and ever so slowly come closer and closer together. Terrific Vigna Brunello for 2021 with great potential. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted November 2025

Godello at Cupano

Cupano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The yields of 2021 were reduced by 60 percent because of the frosts on the nights of April 6th and 7th, yet thankfully Winemaker Andrea Polidoro pruned as late as possible, in early March. That saved the 40 percent result for a vintage which was his first as a solo artist. The temps reached 29 degrees in March and the frost nights as low as minus seven. Dio mio, man, porca miseria. Phenolic ripeness meets the natural sweetness of sugar ripe fruit with an underlay of red clay and silty chalkiness that speaks to the type of tannins come from a reduced number of bunches come to their fruition in a hot year. A chewiness to the texture, a longer maceration (28 days on skins) that may just be the last Cupano vintage to express itself this way. A unique perspective that may not deliver the same vantage point again. The finish feels almost citrusy, like blood orange, akin to 2013 yet here in a more classic stylistic, layering and effect. Keep 2021 in your hlass for 20 minutes and the structure will only intensify. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Cleanest, purest and topmost definitive Brunello recognized through a scan of Donatella’s tenure at Casato Prime Donne in northern Montalcino. Intoxicating perfume for a production totalling 40,000 bottles, spicy aromas, specific and deliberate, wildflowers and the full cupboard for all savoury, sweet and umami needs. Full and developed flavours, ever so slightly liquid chalky and of an early maturity for sangiovese that will stay in a holding pattern for five-plus years. Longevity is guaranteed for five-plus more. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2025

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Progetto Prime Donne 2021

Prime Donne is the selection, of barrels chosen by a group of women in wine, annually and for a special production of maximum 10,000 bottles. Concentration and barrel impact run deeper with the French wood enacting in greater charge. A plethora of spices amuse in a caraway and fenugreek exotic way. Again there is an early feeling of maturity, come togetherness and accessibility as noted in the 2021 Brunello. And again the sangiovese will await further instructions before setting about to change. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2025

Elia Palazzesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Great aromatic warmth, a peppery rise and spicy start. Crispy, herbal, crunchy and with drying tannic elements. Nothing particularly phenolic and so not a matter of finishing jitters. though needles are there on the back palate. Will benefit from time in bottle. Drink 2028-2031. Tasted November 2025

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Oh the humanity and generosity of this sangiovese, giver of life, blood of Montalcino. Consistency with the finest and most erudite of them all, always liquid in its viscosity, no matter the season, of heat or drought and also non-plussed. The 2021 shows this ability at the top, reproduces the natural character of its actions with just enough energy an drive. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vallocchio 2021

Move across and upslope for a block of sangiovese fruit that grows and matures for something special to deliver a Vigna Brunello with the best of its vintage. To be fair the botti on this particular wine feels furtive, not heavy but surely stuck to the fruit in layers and weighty as a result. Pools upon and collects on the palate with warmth and this will take time to channel, outflow and ultimately subside. Would lay these down for two years. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

So much perfume, so little time. Red roses and spices, a liquid white peppery infiltrate into the distillate and all this even before taking a sip. More of the same to be honest, with drips of extract, from edible petals, rose and nasturtium, far from candied, herbs and cracked spice aromatics. Tannic to a pretty impressive degree and perhaps the most structure ever noted from this sangiovese. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Looking back to the most democratic vintage of the last 10-plus years there feels to be at least some semblance of similarity to that 2016 vintage Brunello. Here 2021 abides by the season, obliges with harmony of its parts and reminds just how important an appellate wine it truly is. Approachable and instructive, ultra correct and with just that right amount of backbone for 10 years of positive aging. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Fiore 2021

Consistency thy name is Barbi, Fattoria in delivery of expectation and dreams founded in history and tradition. Steadfast at every level of production, the classic Brunello unfailing and the Vigna unwavering in its determination to abide, but also oblige. We are the benefactors and proud to partake, always, hopefully without disruption. That is the hope. From 2021 Vigna Del Fiore is generous and structured, Full stop. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Sometimes there arrives a Brunello di Montalcino in the glass that feels next level, on another plain, of knowledge and determination. This would be a prime example of next level at the classic, traditional and to stay current, also most modern level. This 2021 screams Brunello di Montalcino. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Gianni Brunelli – Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Aromatic volume but most noticeable and frankly notable for flavour depth, of red fruits with just a hint of blue. No missing the restrained power and surely the singularity of sangiovese, a matter of the soil and estate heart that all should know about in Montalcino. These sangiovese are snowflakes, like all sangiovese and 2021 separates them as distinctly as any vintage. Save a few of these for a rainy day. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

All of the vineyards are planted to Grosso clones of sangiovese, of looser bunches and small berries for distinctive France Pacenti Brunello in the località of Canalicchio. The winemaking is attentive and classic, no tricks, experimentations or magic, simply the Montalcino facts transmitted direct from respectful agriculture. The consistency of Pacenti’s sangiovese is second to none, clean and pure as any, chic and stylish, generous and beautiful from the moment each vintage is released. Better after two to three years for sure but simply a prime example of Montalcino that does not need time to show the proof of great fruit that results in top tier modernist Brunello. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Rosildo 2021

There are vintages when Rosildo and Brunello may seem similar, an extension from one to the next without great difference but the very fact certifies the Cru’s ability to simultaneously express concentration and elegance in a way the Brunello does not. No matter the vintage and the variation in the clay soils is the impetus to make that happen. Rosildo in 2021 speaks in eloquence and performs a delicate dance upon the palate, as if it hovers just a millimetre above every nerve and pore, with sweetness of fruit and acidity bound as one in a structural tiptoe across, with agility and poise. What a palate caress from the Grosso clone of sangiovese this ’21 truly performs, generously and without pause. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Giodo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Giodo escaped the frost of April of 2021 after a long and cold winter that lingered well into late March/early April. Bud break and flowering was late and so production was not compromised after a high level summer season. After selection from barrel the best of the best find their streamlined way into this “Grand Vin” from which the most suave and finessed tannins wrap up the fruit in a tight flannel blanket. What matters most is that finesse and the way a carefully considered sip is hypnotic, inducing a sense of calm that ever so slowly and intentionally courses through the body. The length is endless and each successive sip just adds to the feeling. Sangiovese into the mystic. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted November 2025

Giodo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Prètto 2021

Prètto is not a cru Brunello but in fact the new label, more approachable and drinkable a sangiovese as compared to the Giodo. Think of it like Bordeaux where the name of the estate is the top wine and if a bottle is written to another label then it is a second wine. The distinction is made in the cellar after tasting through barrels with the first selections ending up in the Giodo. This being the first and the idea was born two years ago with the production being higher than the Giodo. Bright like La Quinta yet deeper and more profound like Giodo, not in between but expressive of elements with connection to both. Much closer to the Giodo of course but you can drink this anytime. You open the bottle and you finish it. Opens the door to the Giodo. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Godello at Il Marroneto

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The Brunello is found to be in the middle between the powerful 2020 and 2022 vintages, yet the weather was basically the same as in 2020. The frost may have done damage for others but Il Marroneto’s vines showed neither stress nor damage. Nor was there any delay in the process of the plants. If anything the plants were helped by a product called Protect, an enzyme from nettles that helps keep the leaves closed and also safe from excessive summer heat. Look here another Marroneto Brunello super charged with local knowledge, confidence, bones and ability. There was stress from heat and thankfully early September brought rain so that the fruit could swell, hang on and wait for the harvest on September 27th. Fruit is developed, rippling with poly-phenolic grip and ripped with musculature. 31,000 bottles. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Madonna delle Grazie 2021

A vintage sandwiched between two of established structure at harvest time and described by Jacopo Mori as one of finesse and equilibrium. The Madonna delle Grazie selection has so much in common with the Brunello but what separates this wine is more than just a matter of concentration and mouthfeel. Usually power extends from finesse and elegance but in 2021 all the fruit and then everything in barrel was very close in character. Quality too and so the grape selection was made easier, resulting in a Selezione the team held with full confidence in their choices. The 2021 delivers fruit with many levels of violet perfumes of multifarious quality as a by product of small berries with higher ratio of skins.“ A distinction that makes this wine different” explains Jacopo Mori. Purity incarnate and from the protégé and next generation, absolute truth spoken. 9,500 bottles. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Must say the aromatic presence of this 2021 sangiovese feels so familiar, sweetly herbal, comfortable and recognizable. The style expresses a consistency of the house, a sticking to choices for making wines in a very specific way. A sap of sangiovese blood run through with mineral and wood, looking to come together though that has not yet happened. A year should do the trick. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted November 2025

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Le Due Porte 2021

Recognizable moment here from the Vigna 2021 to connect with the classic Brunello label in a clear and present consistency of style. Exaggeration of sappy fruit, sweet herbals and liquified minerals all in one flavourful pool. Less anticipated structure than what might be necessary to live a really long life. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Very sangjovese, truly Il Poggione, verifiably vintage 2021. A most aromatic display, perfumes of red fruits and flowers, replays in flavours that only serve to accentuate the dream. Chewy and pulpy fruit make for an accessible, amenable and most well-rounded Brunello. No real reason to wait on these – Pour them in restaurants and dining rooms while other more austere 2021s work through their issues. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2021

Campione: A 2021 Brunello that Francesco Mulinari will bottle two days from now and so it’s really quite a finished wine. Aged in Slavonian cask of 5.5, 10 and 11.5 hL with the oldest being 23 years of age. More fruit because of the prominence of vintage and no problems with the April frost because of elevation at 400m in Castelnuovo dell’Abate and nearly 500m at L’Aietta. Then again 10 percent was pulled away from the home vineyard for a selection called Selezione Alberelli. Drier season and hotter than 2019 but acidity is equal and the structure more powerful. This is a fabulous wine, already showing some experience and maturity yet protected and surely built to last in this state for seven-plus years. Zero marmalata, aged for 45 months and of an architectural soundness to equip this sangiovese for a long life to live. 14 percent alcohol and 1,392 bottles made. Drink 2027-2035.Tasted September 2025

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The Brunello is essentially a 50-50 split between La Fortuna and Castelnuovo dell’Abate fruit through the 30 percent loss to April frost in ’21 means less quantity from the southern vineyards. Still the balance is struck between the two with acidity rising and striking like the Rosso and so the northeast makes a strong statement for the vintage. The signature of La Fortuna and a personality so inviting with each sip induing saliva to wish for another. This is sangiovese that travels up the sides of the plate and back on repeat. Wood is a factor, from Slavonian (27 hL) cask while notes are also floral from a Brunello unrequitedly clean and precise. Amazing balance for 15 percent alcohol. Drink 2027-2033.Tasted September 2025

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

At first recognizable as an existing link to many other Brunello di Montalcino but then distinctive, unique to house and location, but also vintage. More open and generous in perfume before retreating and tightening on the palate. Tannins are firm, a bit austere and also drying in a most traditional way. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG La Pieve 2021

Quite a taut and for the vintage high acid example of 2021 Brunello. Ultra sangiovese, verifiable and true, a just and righteous way to express the variety in all its ancient Tuscan wisdom and high toned splendour. Cracker ’21, scintillant of lightning sangiovese strike, crisp and ready for food. Ragù or ragù? Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

High acid launch for sangiovese to jump with excitability and attract immediate attention. This from a 2021 of syrup and sap, like many but it is the acidity that helps fruit proceed with great determination. Settles in nicely and precisely for pleasure and attraction of flavours before drying with some tannic austerity. A wine in three parts needing a few years to come together. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Manapetra 2021

A much deeper and darker fruit expression of 2021 Brunello, rich in poly-phenolic properties, extract up there with the top end examples and fruit reaching away from the reds and into blacks and blues. Not as tannic as expected, nor does austerity make itself known. The extra substance will work to see this Vigna Brunello age for just about the same timeframe as the Brunello. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Certifiably La Magia, verifiably without a doubt and would wager a guess that scientific analysis should prove the specs on this 2021 Brunello to come from no place else. Scents and tastes like the house, the vines and fruit with unequivocal characteristic style. Crunchy and laden with the localized macchia, sweetened of its own volition and vertical as it always must be. As clean and clear as ever, a trusted sangiovese complete and poised at this appellative level. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

La Magia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ciliegio 2021

Ciliegio is connected like a fraternal twin to La Magia’s classic Brunello, more than acting as an extension from one to another. Not so much a matter of style but instead intendment and pretty much the most matter of fact Etichetta Brunello in the whole of the territory. What happens in the vineyard and the cellar is obvious to its maker, unavoidable and so the wine is the vintage, and vice versa. Quality without compromise, no matter the yield. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted November 2025

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Then there is this. Come with its fruit identified and recognized from place and size to match A Lorenzo Magnelli concept and method to create Brunello di Montalcino. Makes for a compact yet far from densely layered sangiovese of fruit so red you gotta wear shades. A rare Brunello of depth without weight and steadfastness and backbone without compaction or compression. There is elastic tension mind you and that is the crux of the vintage situation for a wine needing time to reach its intended and desired destination. Enduring yet inviting, supremely confident, exacting and finally promising. Drink 2029-2042. Tasted November 2025

Le Macioche – Famiglia Cotarella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Dark fruit and enthusiastic perfume, yet in a way still closed while knowing so much lays in waiting. Richness incarnate with Balsamico and then a serious swath of tannic freight spreading across the palate. Strong mocker for 2021 Brunello, more than many and needing time. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2021

Very little stress at Le Potazzine despite frost issues in the lower parts of Montalcino, heat and no rain through to August and hail on August 17th. Nothing at 500m in the west at Le Potazzine. Lucky, fortunate and blessed, which means Riserva could also be made. Picking began on September 26th – completely normal, whatever that is. Not a heavy crop, regular alcohol at 14 percent and very minimal sorting required. Ok the fruit is exemplary but the tannins – these are the quality you look for in sangiovese. Very youthful, reductive at this early stage and wound really tight, like a producer at midnight wondering if its will rain the night before the start of harvest. You can cut the tension with a Bistecca Fiorentina knife and so attention, attenzione, come back and try again in November. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted September 2025

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Ultra red fruit led sangiovese, pressed to express all availability from the ’21 vintage, including acidities soft and hard, making for a variegated affair. Tannins come up and break a bit with brittle tension. Time will help though this is not the estate’s most sound wine ever made. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Castelgiocondo 2021

More of a “balanced vintage,” says winemaker Davide Bozzon, with a longer harvest from mid-September through to the early days of October. Comes from 20-30 blocks within the Castelgiocondo estate. There was a frost on the 8th-9th of April but the damage was minimal with thanks to vines at elevation above the frost line. Richness incarnate, as always these days with a red to black cherry set of notes from aromas through flavours and finishing with that knowable bitter pit note. Good acidity however with a low-ish pH in 2021, though always at Castelgiocondo where temperature excursions are greater than some other sectors of Montalcino. Average production is 350,000 bottles per year. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Aromas and mouthfeel pack a stronger punch and the sangiovese shows firmer grip than many from 2021, leading this Classic Brunello label in two directions. The first with volumetric fruit blessed with nature’s sweets and the second by structural presence to take over in the interim years. After three or four the two will come together and then three or four more will be the best. Be patient and allow for this to come about. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Loreto 2021

Further along and out there in aromatic presence but also volume than the classic Brunello label which means the Loreto speaks truth to the Etichetta and Vigna ideal. Here a sangiovese exaggerative of riches, stronger mocker and more pressed fruit for success come from higher quality grapes. Chosen ones, layered with their supportive acidifies and a manifest to elevate the game. The mid point for the house and the one to serve as one decade turns over to the next. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Schiena d’Asino 2021

A clear and present message is delivered by this top echelon Brunello with the most amusing Etichetta name in Montalcino. The donkey’s butt (or maybe saddle) is the most luxe and chic sangiovese of the three, each incrementally more suave than the last and the promise delivered this time is special indeed. Fruit is glorious, acidity sweet, sultry even and tannins are so bloody fine. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted November 2025

Máté Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The sort off red fruit that splits a mind between vintage and house, reminiscent or rather exemplary of both, one layered or stitched through the other. Also savoury, like two-tone liquorice, of waxy paraffin crayon and a sharp tang. Feels like having been here before, comfortable and yet keenly aware of the vivid style. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted November 2025

Máté Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Veltha 2021

The Vigna Veltha label takes refinement to another level, noted immediately in aromas gentle and inviting. A swirl of vintage fruit allowed to settle and fill up the palate with only what’s correct and without extraneous additives. The herbs, savoury bites, wood seasoning, tartaric acids and qualitative tannin are all there by association and for great purpose. The Brunello does what needs and delivers what wants. It works very well. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Molino di Sant’Antimo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Paolus 2021

Ever so noticeably reductive sangiovese, surely owing to its youth as a Brunello having been recently put to bottle. Challenging season for Molino di Sant’Antimo with 40 percent loss to the April frost and what was left was ripe red fruit with kicks of tang and super energy. Moderate alcohol, definite soil-driven chalkiness, salt and white pepper seasoning, harmonious and two years away from integrating. Don’t really notice the wood at all, save for another layer on the structure of the wine. No doubt sangiovese for sangiovese’s sake, a sense of Molino’s southeastern Montalcino location at the vortices where the Orcia and Ombrone rivers meet, just above them with a backdrop of forest, exposed soft tufo cliffs and the hill of Poggio di Sotto. Valeria is happy in the end because the vintage brought all of this diversity together. Potential is really promising and there is a moment when a Costanti Brunello is invoked, if only in the blink of an eye. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

With Annalisa and Patrizia Cencioni

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Patrizia Cencioni calls her 2021 a sample but it’s not a true campione because it was bottled in May and has settled more than three months. Therefore a finished wine and the same wine that will be released to the market. The frost vintage did not affect this sector because bud break is later and pruning can still take place just after Christmas. In any case there is a sense of wonder in this ’21 Brunello, of sangiovese seduction however demure that may be and a magical energy transmitted to the senses. Something stirs and in turn turns the screws of emotion, even if we can’t put a finger on exactly what that is. And it does not matter. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2025

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ofelio 2021

As with the Classico Brunello the Selezione is named a “sample” by Patrizia Cencioni even though it is a bottled and finished wine. Ofelio is named for the only Montalcinese who was there to help 20 year-old Patrizia Cencioni get things started back in 1987 and mainly comes from the three oldest vineyards, planted from 1987-1989. In the early days Paolo Vaggagini was the oenologist – Since 2018 it has been Valentino Chiarla. The first vintage of the label was 2018 and yet the Selezione produced in 2015 and 2016 (in the same way) were called 30 and 31, in honour of anniversary vintages. Next level richness, ripeness and concentration, also structural elements with a truly chalky, northeastern Montalcino elemental style. There is some leathery fruit with depth and breadth, vertically and horizontally, meeting at a shared axis. Surely a more traditional Brunello, aged only in 15 and 16 hL Slavonian cask. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted September 2025

Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

When dusty is cool and liquid savoury elements pool, the result is a sangiovese just like this. Somewhere between crunch and chew, a middle ground food where correct and without risk is the order of the day. Delivers a vintage message if without exclamation and certainly without question. Perfectly fine. Drink 2027-2029. Tasted November 2025

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Either the vintage made for a sangiovese lower in alcohol than usual or the house adjusted picking and winemaking ever so slightly to make that happen. Or perhaps the work put in has offered up the perception of less boozy power. Either way the 2021 drinks with gentle distinction and who would not be seduced by this power of restraint and nurturing grip? A winner and still champion sangiovese for a place on the hill falling steeply to the south west where the sun falls with declension on vines as the warmth of the days descends. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Pinino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Good chew of sangiovese fruit in a way that most 2021 do not is the way of this fresh pressed fruit leather of a Brunello. Quick to make its point, also to finish and so drink this early. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The first thing you notice about southwesterly Brizio Brunello is the aromatic exoticism as compared to northerly Poggio Landi. The third is the difference in tannins, more plush, layered and mouth-filling. In between there is the seamlessness of transition from Mediterranean macchia perfumes to the silken texture. A youthful exuberance defines the character, wood needs to integrate in bottle and the future looks very promising. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Amore e Magia 2021

Devilishly perfumed by way of dangerously decadent aromas launch the theatrics that are this 2021 Brunello. A sangiovese risk taken and reward gifted to those who want natural but also territorial. The exciting nature of this ’21 brings more than simply grape and place to the glass – It represents possibility and promise, two things some traditional houses are consistent to provide while many others will be hit or miss. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Similar exoticism and sweetness of fruit though a clearer picture is painted with the classico Brunello label. Does not flirt with swarthy danger nor does there seem to be the same kind of risks involved. At the price it commands these are good things to please the buyer who wants a correct and elevated sangiovese experience. There is a fineness to this 2021 and a type of acidity second to none that serves to express for the kind of consumer buyer hooked on a feeling. Poggio Antico “you got me thirsty for another cup of wine.” Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna I Poggi 2021

Aromatic depth is paramount to drawing one in for a magical, impressionable and experiential sangiovese ride. Expectation from a cru vineyard as important as I Poggi must not only be respected but also elevated – This has been accomplished and the result in 2021 is simply extraordinary. What isn’t seductive and rewarding about this sangiovese? Everything melts on the palate, all aspects coming aboard later are woven seamlessly together and the palate embrace does wonders for morale and well being. A spiritual retreat as Brunelo di Montalcino. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted November 2025

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

To be honest this 2021 is extremely young and not nearly as forthright or giving to fully inuit what it will become. Then again the exemplary fruit in all its ripe and fleshy beauty knows to act submissive to backbone in a composition as upright and vertical as any. There is the temptation to see this ’21 as sublime but at this stage that would be saying or giving away far too much. For now there is plenty to appreciate and know that the finest days lay well ahead. Drink 2028-2038. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The 2021 Brunello reminds of the 2023 Rosso in the citrus aspect and finishing stone fruit bitters, although the fruit is darker, texture silkier and finish smoother. Lower yields and more concentration with longer (30 months) in botti make for a more elegant sangiovese expression. Length on the ’21 Brunello is excellent. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Correct, clean, well composed and structured sangiovese as 2021 Brunello. Hits essential vintage notes with a mix of the fruity and savoury, accented by sharpening acidity, salt and pepper seasoning. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

The 2021 is really the first vintage with the finishing stamp off new winemaker Alberto Stella, 32 months in French and Slavonian botte and just recently bottled in July. Like the 2020 there is reserve and hesitation upon entry but the fruit is different from 2021, more on the red to black spectrum with an absence of the 2020 blues. The Balsamico and macchia character (derived from the land, including limestone and marl) are more like 2019 and so not only is ’21 a good combination of the two, it takes the best of each of the two previous vintages and uses their personality traits to the best advantage. Wood, inclusive of perceived sweet spices, really needs to settle and the tannins are suave. With vines now passing the 20 year mark the ceiling raises and 2021 will become a fine wine. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted September 2025

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Silky, suave, modernized, fruit captured at peak and truly sleek sangiovese. Flirts uncompromisingly with swarthy danger and works hard to play it clean, bringing something unique and also structured to a Brunello experience. Taste this and know there are no peers, certainly nothing replicative and then come to appreciate the soul within the style. Some will embrace the low level Brettanomyces and worryingly others will not. Drink 2027-2029. Tasted November 2025

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Piaggione 2021

The Etichetta Brunello is always a one of denominational kind, a singular experience in sangiovese and something expressive of planning, the journey and execution. The 2021 is noticeably primary to be honest and all the better for it because it means there is much to learn from many tastings over the years from a wine equipped to handle time. Loving the clarity and transparency of this anything but light ’21 instead viewed as a stealth Brunello with unlimited potential. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sorgente 2021

Of the Salicutti Brunello portfolio in Classico, Annata or Brunello (Etichetta), or however you wish to refer to them, it is the Sorgente that speaks in the clearest, most succinct and utterly concise characterful vernacular. A dialectical Salicutti language once understood to the greatest degree allowable that will continually act in its extroverted way. The 2021 is endowed with a fine calcareous chalk swirling in centrifuge in the whirling whizz of devilishly and naturally formulated purest fruit imaginable. This is quietly and stealthily formidable as a sangiovese to represent itself. Great beauty and promise for decades to come. Bravi ragazzi di questa tenuta. Drink 2028-2044. Tasted November 2025

San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Just the third Brunello 2021 tasted for this first Anteprima day and already a thread is weaving through a style and effect to explain a vintage after early returns. Power and grip yes but in a controlled and vertical way, proper, correct and classic. As if this were a really warm vintage 20 or 25 years ago when not all were like that and so the celebrations came fast and with conviction. Campogiovanni does this with savour and Balsamico, but also wood spice and an early note of sottobosco. Good complexity here. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

San Guglielmo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

There are classic houses in Montalcino and there are newer discoveries descended down from historical properties, now in the hands of experienced youth. This is the distinction of Ilaria and Michele, hosts and messengers for 2021 sangiovese, now ten years into their journey. The 2021 marks another turning point, a move ever so forward again, with a better understanding of how care outside begets promise inside. The fruit feels like it truly belongs and the acidity is pitch perfect. Tonality glides with the treble highs and bass lows interconnected and layered as required. All in all there is balance and the proviso for backbone to carry the wine up, up and away. When will it come down? Nobody knows. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Sanlorenzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Bright and a great clarity with highest while also sweetest acidity for 2021 Brunello. Purity of sangiovese and the most croccante of all the ‘21s, never wavering or falling from its high-toned, scintillant and electric style. Exciting although there are many (Italians namely) who will question the lightness as being un-Brunello. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted November 2025

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Quiet and reticent nose, fruit lurking in shadows, not yet open for floral business. Feels like a full and substantial Brunello in waiting, glycerol and salty chalkiness run below. Needs a couple, maybe even a few years to rise. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted November 2025

San Polo Marilisa Allegrini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Bigger and broader shouldered Brunello for 2021, clear and present quality from a particular part of Montalcino above and aboard the concave bowl with valleys falling left and right below. Delivers the sensation of a muscular soil with skeletal elements breaking up the compaction to allow air and liquid nutrients into its fissures, to drink it up and fill its boots. This 2021 has bones and just needs a year or two for the fruit to flesh, rise and give. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

San Polo Marilisa Allegrini Brunello di MontalcinoDOCG Vignavecchia 2021

Intensity from the word go with old vines responsible for focus and even more evidenced by own gathering in assemblage. The aromatic presence is duly impressive, again with thanks to the experience of these plants and the matter concerns allowing them to speak without hinderance. The winemaker has succeeded in transmitting the information and emotion in a most necessary way. The finish does denote a pecorino woolliness that should subside after two or three years more time. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

San Polo Marilisa Allegrini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Podernovi 2021

A mix of the herbal and herbaceous, an uncanny hemp note that repeats itself, followed by the original development of red cherry fruit. Together they occupy space if not in simultaneous or seamless fashion. Vignavecchia feels more in tune and attuned to its tethered parts while Podernovi is obviously a vineyard entity that needs even more settling time. Drink 2029-2034. Tasted November 2025

Sesti di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Crisp and grippy sangiovese with reddest of red citrus fruit and an aromatic waft of fresh roses. Crunchy too, tannic as well with some austerity quite proper for the style and effect. Does what needs for Brunello without overdone elements, not from maceration nor fermentation, nor by anything that has or will happen. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted November 2025

Sesti di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Magistra 2021

Magistra registers a much deeper resonance than the classic Brunello label, aromatically plush juxtaposed against a low-toned intention. Sappy and syrupy, yet to sate and unresolved at this early stage, finishing with seriously grippy tannin in relative austerity. Confounding, especially as compared to the restraint noted in the classic label. Drink 2028-2031. Tasted November 2025

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Composed, admittedly a bit closed and yet fully collected Brunello of extreme youth. Far from opening and what feels like a minimum four years necessary to see that happen. The silken fruit lays low, not as an agitated bubble but in a gentle simmer, never rolling or roiling but just a pop here and there. Purity of sangiovese incarnate comes from a classic ’21 of true learned meets modern vibes, but giving off an aura of old soul. Would choose to wait three years before seeing what is not only possible, but coming upon a place in Montalcino that will surely feel like home. Drink 2029-2040. Tasted November 2025

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Quite open and immediately generous for a type of gratification you won’t need to stand in line for. Suave and sleek through light on its feet and sneaky of structure to look ahead and enjoy a solid 10 year run. Admittedly one year further in bottle will ever so slightly soften the prickling of sharp acidity and tannic austerity. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Piero 40esima Vendemmia 2021

Special “40th harvest” edition for the Etichetta label as an extension of the first, connected with as much kinship as any for Brunello di Montalcino. What is noticed more readily is the backbone, verticality of structure and requiem for time to assimilate and integrate the grippy early stage events of this sangiovese. For now it remains in a moment of tension and austerity, but that will pass and what comes next will be years of primary delight. Drink 2028-2039. Tasted November 2025

Tassi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Fruit forward and open sangiovese for 2021, with soft acidity and tannin, all in synch and ready to please. A 2021 for early drinking, no hurdles or locked doors, window just about wide open. Creamy mid-palate unlike many from the vintage. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Tassi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Colombaiolo 2021

Deeper aromatic inhalant of exaggerated sangiovese character to speak in a clear and forcefully prompt message. Tight winding wind of acidity around the fruit and tannins taut but also with the feeling of being tart. Unique Brunello 2021 perspective and a wine worth watching, especially through its first five years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Hard to know just what each vintage save from the extreme ones are want to do for each and every nook of Montalcino. This however is a thought that can apply after a season like 2021 and one moment of nosing TBT’s classic label will tell you the southeast near below Castelnuovo dell’Abate has fared extremely well. As floral and mineral as any, dark fruit in the cherry spectrum pure and proper, so bloody sangiovese. Just enough glycerol to effect great mouthfeel and then backbone to extend length. Wood needs some time to melt in because the vanilla is noticeable, as are some spices, though they will all dissolve within given two years further in bottle. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021 Ciampoleto

Relatively speaking there is quiet and coolness in the opening aromatic salvo of Collemassari’s sister Brunello to Poggio di Sotto upwards on a semi-shared hill. Time in the glass opens the window and so that same give in bottle will do the same. There is a beautiful swirl of elements in the San Giorgio but also a getable quality just around the corner. Lovely and amenable wine with natural sweetness run all the way through. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Tenute Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

From a group of Brunello labels that include Clos degli Amodeo, Poggiotondo and Pietranera, here from four hectares on the southwestern side of the Montalcino hill. A harmonic single vineyard expression of sangiovese with elevation and Mediterranean macchia running through its veins. Sweetly savoury and crispy or croccante, balance well delineated between fruit and acidity, a note of Balsamico and relatively moderate tannin. Well made, correct and purposed for early consumption. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Certainly lighter and brighter than the three cru/Riserva 2021s, less wood and red fruit so kind and hospitable. Like a bowl of cherries and blood orange with top ranking acidity and intensity for a long run ahead. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigneto Poggio Doria 2021

Only old casks are used, lately the wood of choice has been Pauscha (Austrian) and the vessels are acquired from other producers. First vintage of Doria was 2004, here 17 years later and mon dieu how full, substantial and concentrated this shows to be. As chewy and mouth-filling as they come from a style that suits the high quality of southeastern Montalcino fruit. Consulting oenologist is Andrea Politi. Drink 2027-2036.Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Manachiara 2021

A cru Brunello that could be a Riserva (and there was one in 2012, although it was the Poggio Doria) and while there are so many tannic moments happening in this highly macerated Brunello there is also a Bordeaux quality stemming from incredible ripeness matched by a grand style of oak aging. Not new mind you, of various sized casks between 20 and 80 hL, all working in extraction to deepen colour and give this sangiovese serious depth. There is more lift in this 2021 with big fruit and also fuel, though the wine is incredibly youthful and far from integrated. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted September 2025

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Perfumed as always, wood not yet resolved, nor should that be expected from a Brunello that needs the bottle. As all sangiovese do and 2021 is no exception, not for this estate moving from strength to strength. The back palate really picks up on the pull, grip and hold of tannin built into the fabric of a finely spun textural wine. There is some austerity here, throwback in nature for a ’21 of ripeness but also presenting a risk-reward prospect. Wait three years to see the results. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted November 2025

Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Agitative profundity of viscous swirl marks a sangiovese of ambition to be a force of reckoning for the 2021 vintage. There feels to be a whole lot of everything in this Brunello, gone for broke, pressed for success, macerated long to eek out all that is possible. Overdone is one way to look at it, playing its cards and showing the full hand another. Tough sledding and not sure there will be a great future here. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted November 2025

Tommasi Casisano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

In Italy location determines results in sangiovese for as much as any combination of grape with place to effect the character of its wines. Here the commonality with some other 2021 Brunello delivers spice, inclusive of cinnamon heart on the nose. Wood is part of this fixed and quantified matter, working with località to create the recognized consequence. A positive one in attributable personality not specific to this vintage but to wines made here as a general rule. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025.

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

To understand this sangiovese from Andrea Cortonesi is to first recognize agriculture, followed by game. What begins in the field translates into the cantina for a consistency of style bred out of the argumentation of intention. The structural matters are always followed, as they are with 2021 and those who do not understand these Brunello are focused on the now when they should be using imagination and the powers of deduction to consider the future. Know this. There is fruit, classically attributed and only as ripe as the vintage allows. Acids are localized and the wine rises, slowly, effortlessly and without hurry. Wait for it. Drink 2028-2039. Tasted November 2025

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

There is a natural sweetness in the fruit of this 2021 Brunello standing out and seducing with its easy returns. A layered effect come from three distinct locations together interspersed and so you feel the variegation, particularly in the textural fabric. Length is impressive as the wine lingers in its palate glide. A terrific preparation for tasting the single site wines to come. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted November 2025

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Lago 2021

The focus on site is essential to the future of Montalcino and there is an argument to be made for single vineyard blocks located right where the cellar processes the grapes. Vigna del Lago is that place, the vineyard around the lake on the northeast side of Momntalcino’s hill. A warm grey clay place where the sangiovese is stealth, mineral and floral. This driest recent vintage with essential harvest time rain brings out the best for a Vigna sangiovese more vertical than normal. This combination of seduction and backbone raises the bar and ceiling. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Granchio 2021

If at first the aromatics in this single vineyard Brunello may seem to have no connection to the estate’s other Vigna sangiovese, well in some sense that would be the case. The verdancy here, an evergreen note and warmer site’s feel of the land’s green pastures does define the scents. Then again from a textural angle the wines surely have much in common. The sangiovese connects with the palate and shows no hurry to depart, in fact it coats and lingers long after the liquid is gone. This is a signature of the house, a chemical process of connection that helps the taster to recall character and style. This example introduces spice and older soul identity for they who are able to intuit and feel that link to the past. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Spicy, cinnamon hearts aroma straight off the top. Wood at the fore and down to the sangiovese core, more spices marking territory and springing the darker cherry character. Really woody Brunello, chalky and grainy, needing time. Drink 2027-2029. Tasted November 2025

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Pomona 2021

Taut as it gets for 2021 Brunello, wood spice and tannin run amok, creating a drying and austere sensation marking the second half of the experience. Old school is the understatement here. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021

Firm and agricultural sangiovese, a wine born of the land, of Balsamico, verdant macchia and surely from smaller, somewhat less juicy berries raised at elevation. Plenty of sun and lack of water delivers a sangiovese of austerity and tannic freight. Missing some grace and generosity although there is no denying the impressive structure and stature. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Gualto 2020

Energy and exuberance from a Riserva for 2020 that raises the bar for appellative excitement. Impressive capture and preservation of acidity for the vintage, a fact of facet that many estates faced a challenge to perform and here the effort is no small feat. This without any compromise to fruit and so the composition is an impressive one. Well done team, bravissimo. Last tasted November 2025

Traditional, normal and uneventful vintage, “a wine for people to drink, easy to understand,” in the words of winemaker Sergio Cantini. Once again stylistic consistency is inherent in the character of Camigliano’s sangiovese yet here the smaller sized cask (25 and 30 hL) inject their will into Riserva. Adds to the presence of vanilla, lavender and an accentuation of red berry fruit sweetness. Silky and spiced, full of glycerol and a smoothness throughout. The wood needs two more years to fully melt in and resolve. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2021

Just amazing to taste Riserva 2021 in the same sitting as both La Casaccia and Montosoli 2021 for three Brunello bottled back in May. Normally Riserva is tasted a year later and so this is a very special opportunity, but keep in mind there was no Riserva made from 2020. From Vigna Vecchia Mercatale inclusive of original plantings from 1987 (Francesco Ripaccioli’s vintage) and the place most connected to his grandfather, the BBS 11 (Biondi-Santi) clone and plants grafted onto old rootstock. A remarkable expression from 2021 with perhaps the most exuberance from the fruit and the sheer sweetness of the acidity. “My idea for Riserva is not one extra year,” says Francesco Ripaccioli, also “it’s a matter of a different vineyard.” From 2021 Vigna Vecchia Mercatale is the stuff of dreams that will live for two decades, likely more. Drink 2029-2042. Tasted September 2025

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

If there will be any Brunello Capanna that will benefit the most from the optical sorter introduced in 2023 by the son of Patrizio Cencioni and fourth generation winemaker Amadeo Cencioni, it will indeed be Riserva. For now the 2020 remains a sangiovese sorted and selected by Patrizio and his five decades of local experience. A vintage more than deserving and yes the qualities of concentration and poly-phenolic impression are worthy. Burnished gloss and brilliance elevate fruit on the shoulders of bountiful verticality built on acidity and backbone. Feels soft though is anything but and few Brunello are quite this seductive. There can potentially be 7,000-8,000 bottles of Riserva produced, on average, although most vintages only see three to four. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Still in a reactive state and showing minor reduction expressive of verdancy and pricks of tension. Requires movement, swirl and agitation to release the aromatic possessions ahead of a specific sangiovese’s appurtenances. This 2020 Riserva is not a big Brunello but rather a graceful example in no hurry to shed its baby fat ahead of opening the window high and wide. Take you time and settle in. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Ad Alberto 2020

Good to see the variety and diversity in Riserva 2020 with this example being a much awaited one. Slick and sleek without any gratuity or excess whatsoever. Finding this to be understated and should anyone find it light and without musculature, well good, please and thank you. Leave the other “style” to the rest. There are many who will appreciate the refinement, lack of flash or decoration. Who actually prefers massive, overly pressed or indeed, even precious? Choose wisely Brunello lovers. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Classic for the house in Riserva with this mix of fruit maturity, dusty macchia, effect of elevation, high acidity and syrupy texture settled upon the palate. The acids keep the energy flowing and the fruit in a paused situation so that it will not decline or descend into leathery chewiness. All is well for the time being. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Corte dei Venti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Donna Elena 2020

Maturing Riserva well ahead of schedule. Fruit passing over into secondary life from a sangiovese needing to be consumed sooner rather than later. That said there are many who will love a Brunello with the feel and eyes of age, though they might prefer it to be one with at least 10 years post vintage. Tasted November 2025

Corte Pavone Loacker Wine Estates Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Anemone al Sole 2020

An expression of aromatic volume and especially grip, notable and profound as Riserva clearly designed with exaggerated riches in fruit concentration. Must be considered in a specific to Riserva light, of deep impression and understanding. Found to be slightly more mature than expected for a not yet five year-old Brunello though the backbone is vertical and potential remains intact. The tannic thrush of truth is confirmation of that fact. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2025

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Even in Riserva the 2020s are not yet ready and still recognizably tight, with this from Donatella Cinelli Colombini being exemplary to explain the situation. Tannins persist in their pulled taut winding around original material, while texture swells with a depth composed of red ochre fruit, wood nurture and sweet acidity. The extra aging and choice of barrels has come to create true Riserva style for a wine that will join the ranks and live into Casato Prime Donne infamy. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2025

Elia Palazzesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Floral, red rose freshness and spice components in the generosity of an aromatized beginning. A sangiovese of singular persona, palate presence and an experience that shows more nature than nurture. There is a persistent grain of tannic intention to keep the wine from advancing further and fruit freshness is not put into question. There are Brunello of responsible disposition and this would that in Riserva form. Ready to drink some bottles and will hold for some time yet. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Vigna le Macchiarelle 2020

Should be noted and put out there how the 2020 Riserva to a sangiovese are showing some maturity – It’s simply a matter of vintage. These are not Brunello of extreme freshness and immovable structure, but instead the kind to consider drinking sooner rather than later. Yes the 2020s, inclusive of this will linger gently, gliding in the gusty Tramontana for a few years, but the best days are already here and the processeses have begun. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Freshest and most high toned of the Riserva tased thus far. Just picked red roses bouquet, also ranunculus and a sweet savoury element perfectly aligned. Croccante to a degree that’s not just anticipated but more so warranted to deliver an experience of excitability and longevity. Super smart and crafty Brunello Riserva of classicism and character. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Is this this first Marroneto Riserva? You better believe it and anything you thought what understood about a Brunello by Il Marroneto becomes secondary to what’s in this glass. Everything is the same except aging in botti is 54 months instead of 42 and “it’s a particular wine,” says Iacopo Mori. “It requires a little bit of passion.” The fruit darkens, the violets become candied and the tannins bear their teeth in ten times that of those from red fruited 2021. The colour is almost not to be believed and still i’s character of Il Marroneto is clearly preserved. Yes this is solo sangiovese, measuring the highest extract for the variety that has likely ever occurred at the estate. “The monster,” spoken by Alessandro Mori in 2023 when tasted from barrel and related once again by son Iacopo in 2025. There has never been anything like this and the sottobosco and concentration make one wish for fresh morels in the Spring. The tannins need four years to resolve and then those fungi will pair abidingly with this monster. Only four months in bottle, still tense and nervous and yet let the people choose what they want to do and when they want to drink. Drink 2029-2039. Tasted November 2025

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Vigna Paganelli 2020

Richness accumulated and conclusive, of fruit at the height of a duality, 90 percent fresh and juicy, the rest concentrated and leathery. These feelings noted in aromas and also flavours, pulpy and of a stone fruit style relating to a grand collection of blocks distilled down into Riserva. Sangiovese meanders and connections with every part of the palate, missing nothing, delivering everything. Some drying tannic moments suggest waiting another year or two. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

La Magia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

A Riserva of experience with leathery fruit aromas suggestive of fleshy if slightly dried stone (plum) fruit. A matter of vintage more than anything else, also the prune note associated with the movement of air and time. Still there is a high toned aspect in the character, along with grip in the tannic profile and so there is still some work to be done. Chewy and then crispy at the finish, a dichotomy wrapped inside a paradox. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Diecianni 2016

This singular Riserva is best tasted with the producer, perhaps in a way and for reasons that exceed any other in the whole of Montalcino. This because aging is slower, incremental and purposeful. Would not say today that the aromatics are closed, but neither are they aching to speak. Some wines do not need to shout, nor even announce their arrival and this continues to enter the world with a quiet presence. When the sangiovese takes up residence on the palate it does so with the poised demeanour of one that belongs, sharing space and creating an intimacy with its host. A remarkable connection when you consider it’s only wine but some Brunello are marked by such a mien. The Diecianni is one such near perfect bottle. Last tasted November 2025

Just beginning to shed its barrel weight, integrate that spice and see the smallest, most concentrated vineyard berries bursting of their fruit. The vintage is primed and near perfect for a Le Chiuse Riserva and who could not have a taste without thinking about the history and genetic transference of the place. Last tasted November 2024

Never overstate the Lorenzo Magnelli way of crafting Riserva, that is by aging in cask longer than not just the average, but indeed all others. His Le Chiuse Diecianni carries, drifts and gifts the most succulence whilst exhibiting a spice force to ignite the most sensation and emotion. A veritable melting pot of a sangiovese, complexities bound and wound, circulating throughout the wine’s coefficient of existential and elementary positions. These are the smallest of berries picked to forge what only Riserva can, to be cool, mineral licked, ethereal. Already exhibiting fruit purity and also density for a look at what two decades forward will come from this finest of Brunello wines. Drink 2024-2037. Tasted November 2021

Molino di Sant’Antimo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

The vineyard where Riserva comes from is littered with marne, stones left behind by an ocean many millennia ago, bestrewing the grey clay with limestone and river stones that all combine for a seriously unique example of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. A place where a river emptied into the sea and that alone tells so much about the nature and potential of this wine. A sangiovese of confluence, commitment and confidence, also clarity and palate response. Fruit is clearly darker than the Classico, but also more so than the coming 2021 vintage, here into a black raspberry hue, still transparent but not the red lightning of 2021. The finish moves into black cherry with a vague hint of stone and so much elemental-mineral longing that will be there on the finish for 10 years or more. Costanti and Le Chiuse would come to mind, especially in the way higher skin to juice ratio from smallest berries sees the transition from Classico to Riserva. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Marchesi Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Castelgiocondo Ripa al Convento 2020

Single vineyard for an early, concentrated and powerful vintage because of the hot and dry summer. No small barrels, only large cask mainly used, of 90-100 hL, really large. South exposure, two separate picks to bring in this smaller amount of fruit, one of silt that brings the essential oil and the other a salty aspect that delivers the architecture. The Galestro from flysch is surely responsible for that saline streak out of a single block that’s all stones at the surface with full draining capacity no matter how much it rains. The roots will always need to burrow deep to access water and the vines respond in kind, delivering a savoury sangiovese of low ph (3.4), high acidity and salty tang. More akin to Tenuta Perano in Gaiole as compared to the larger production Castelgiocondo Brunello. Average production is 15,000-20,000 bottles, on the higher side for 2021. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2025

Northeast Montalcino at Patrizia Cencioni

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 123 2020

The 2020 Riserva (along with the 2021 Brunelli) are the first wines to finish for three months in newly acquired 40 hL concrete vats. No increase in total aging time but three months less in cask. Why 123? Because on the map the vineyards are simply 1,2,3 and they are the oldest plantings, from 1988 and 1989. The stoniest places, 1.2 hectares total, high in calcareous material mixed into the base of argilla. Also higher solar radiation which makes for a quicker to ripen set of circumstances and on average 0.3 to 0.5 higher degree of alcohol. More texture and chew than any of the Classico or Selezione Brunelli, layer upon layer integrated through many layers of fruit and tannin, a mille-feuille lasagna of a sangiovese from the most delicately pressed way. Full yet airy, grippy while elegant and characteristically impressive. Production is maximum 5,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2025

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Nothing mature about this 2020 Riserva but with great immediacy it does come barreling forth in aromas and across the palate. Some sangiovese are quieter and others announce their assertive arrival. Impressive fruit layers crashing like waves on a rocky shore, relentless in their pursuit for commotion. Riserva’s fullness of concentration and sturdy carriage transporting character comes to define a family and their holdings. This is admittedly a big Brunello Riserva and also one found in balance for bottls to be consumed over a lengthy and extended period of time. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

A year will effect a marked difference for Brizio’s classic Brunello. Today running positively true from a vintage of a cool Spring, followed by a hot summer. “Easier than 2021,” tells Lorenzo Bernini, “and more difficult than 2019. The most normal vintage in recent memory.” In the end the tannins are just a bit “raw.” Last tasted November 2025

Aromatic depth for sure and some peppery warmth to that petroleum nose. Built as Brunello, that is to say with full on wood aging, backbone of structure and ample acidity necessary to see time do the right thing. Well-pressed and dressed for success with another two years needed to begin exacting the desired effect. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2024

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Bosco Alto 2020

The Bosco Alto (upper or high forest) comes from the vineyard abutting those woods and so Riserva that ages longer (48 months in Botti Grandi) is refreshed by the forest. This foils the wood with positivity and harmony developing ways, as do the inclusion of ripe stems in the fermentation process. Brings a sweetness to the profile, an encouragement of natural fruit elements to rise above the wood and the tannin, almost surprisingly so. Though longer time spent in oak could result in the requiem for more time in bottle, in this case the wine acts nearly ready and aims to deliver near immediate gratification. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Lupi e Sirene 2020

Brash, blatant and blunt force sangiovese strike on the senses with Brunello Riserva. Volatility in its most natural, unadulterated and unkempt fashion, undisguised and unapologetic for how a Montalcino Brunello will come about. The fact here is how the tannins are intact, not brittle nor in any danger of cracking. Yet the style is ultra specific and unpolluted by public opinion. Vividly presented for all to choose. Drink 2028-2032. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Brighter as Riserva for 2020, beauty incarnate, of red rose hue and transparent like few others. No detectable wood on the nose and in many ways so different than the estate’s Brunello of just 10 years ago. The evolution of style but more importantly disposition is welcomed with open arms. Some may not see the shift as currently correct for the denomination, but who could or would not embrace this level of quality and elegance? Having tasted the 2001 in 2025 there is a similarity, if only in delicacy but the discernment is fodder for understanding. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted November 2025

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

In Riserva the perforce notions of sangiovese in purezza and aromatic intensity are manifested in ways the classic Brunello is not. The extra layers, levels and manifestations are all a bit vivid when youth descries timing and temperament. Many ‘20s are already showing maturity but this, not even close and in fact the reductive and redacted elements lead fruit on the palate in a waxy and unresolved state. Would wait three or four years before opening bottles and considering passing any judgement. Drink 2028-2035. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Fruit comes from the northern part of Montosoli over a concave bowl of a vineyard filled with argilla, limestone and schist, manifested as Galestro. The geogolgy is Formazione Santa Fiora, the description essentially (like Mastrojanni). Increased power and depth from Riserva for 2020, aged 48 months in Botti Grandi and coming away with many layers of fruit and tannin. Five years old and still the wood is very much settling and integrating to accomplish before fruit can stand out. The uncanny note of almond comes from Riserva, unique to lands at and also near Montosoli, like cherry stone concentrated and almost becoming marzipan. Sweetly volatile right there up on the crest between beauty and danger. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Fine aromatic sangiovese swirl with red stone fruit accented by herbs, five spice and citrus. Not the most complicated or complex Riserva and yet acidity ranks high to raise the profile and put this in touch with food on the table. Crunchy 2020, ready to pour and please. Kudos to a team neither trying to overdo or ask too much of a vintage. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Teatro 2020

The Salicutti paradox is vividly represented in the Riserva 2020, a wine closer in style and effect to the Brunello than either Piaggione or Sorgente. Here from the wild casks, of natural fruit and its volatile accents. Unbridled, non-manipulated and unadulterated, left to its own devices, wooly and unabashedly itself. Tannins are fine and important but Drink 2027-2032. Tasted November 2025

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2020

Be in no hurry to gather thoughts on this Riserva. Take a moment, give it time and wait for the right moment to begin making comments and decisions. The aromas flow forth measured, slowly and gracefully, carefully considered from a pitch of selected red fruit seasoned with citrus zest. Just enough tart edginess to accent the bleed of sangiovese swirled into a natural pool of acidity, tannin and mood. For 2020 the effect is quietly impressive and yet could not have been easy to deliver. But it succeeds because a wine of humility can only come from out of the clutches of respect. Riserva is a mix of luminous skies and contentment. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Pian Di Conte 2020

A reductive element locks in freshness and keeps the 2020 Riserva from extending the proverbial olive branch. Not yet anyway and for the vintage there are both local and Mediterranean scents in the somewhat restrictive aromas. A Sant’Angelo in Colle herbaceous notation mixed with macchia brought in by far way winds that denote something singular. Crunchy Riserva, freschissimo, red stone fruit surrounded by tannin, dominated even and years away from settling. Drink 2028-2033. Tasted November 2025

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Ugolforte 2020

Fruit and wood are both providers of the spice in a lustrous and glossy Riserva. Of course this could only come from sangiovese, also Montalcino and to be honest the lower part of the hill occupied by Poggio di Sotto. The fruit is accepted by citrus and a red peppery spice specific to this wine. Impressive binate for the estate. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted November 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

A Riserva bottled in June of 2025 with the heaviest set of fruit and fuel, not to mention the grandest wallop of tannins imaginable for a Montalcino Brunello Riserva. Biggest, of deepest depths and years from resolving structural parts keeping fruit down, hidden away, undisturbed. Three months in bottle is far from the time needed to have any real inkling what’s in this glass. Then again there is some lift and rise to the 2021, red fruit freshness and great potential laid ahead. Keep looking at 2018, allow 2019 to keep settling, (there is no 2020 Riserva) and then return for 2021 way forward in 2028. Drink 2028-2036.Tasted September 2025

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020

Rich in poly-phenolic presence, red citrus and glycerol for veritable and verifiable Riserva style. This 2020 has gone deep into the well to gather, accumulate and concentrate fruit, a necessity considering the verdant bites and especially tension alongside. Feels like Vigna Poggio al Granchio plays an important role in Riserva, especially in 2020. A sleek example, complex and so near to the time when it will be evident that the invitation should be opened. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Argiano

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – Older Vintages

Aminta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Fruit mainly from vineyards planted at the turn of the (20th to 21st) century by the previous owner when the farm was called Poggio Castellare. There is no questioning the quality of the fruit and the part of Montalcino where it’s grown. 3,000 bottles produced. Last tasted November 2025

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta “Greppo” 2020

They were very different climatic vintages but aromatically speaking there is a kinship between Rosso 2023 and Brunello 2020, which is to say a Biondi-Santi-ness that can’t be ignored, or denied. That and a physiological ripeness of heritage and tradition, as if this were made out of a vintage of a hot summer sometime 25 to 35 years ago. In other words a vintage that by let’s say 1985 standards would have been considered hot. This makes 2020 the kind of Brunello that makes one long for the past, not to return but to experience something from a time when things were more naive, less stressful and at a time when summer seemed to last forever. Not perfectly ripe or come from something easy, but relatively speaking a sangiovese of great pleasure and one that will age gracefully for potentially 30 years. An old soul sangiovese can do this. Drink 2026-2041. Tasted November 2025

With Cosimo Squarcia, Castello di Tricerchi

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Pinch of TCA. A three parcel Brunello, contiguous with one higher in limestone and one more defined by its red soil. The picking rolls through the three from east to west, the second and third ripening later than the first. Has come to a fine place and truthfully the 2020 is now ready to drink. Last tasted November 2025. Here sangiovese takes on a unique aromatic profile as the first to exhibit this note of fresh fennel or liquorice root, along with its cool, salt-licked black cherry profile. The vintage is not necessarily one of fruit but rather in so many cases more about mineral stone. And yet Tricerchi’s delivers the fruit in waves, with fresh cut herbs that muddle into an Amaro finish. Once again place is the driver and these abiders make sure to have transmitted it into bottle. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A.D. 1441 2020

Single vineyard sangiovese, a cru Brunello from Piedmontazine styling spent six months under a submerged (wet) cap. Tasted from two bottles, one opened yesterday and one this morning, the first more expressive and complex, the second fresher and feeling like a different vintage. You can choose which one you want, to drink the wine young, or at the end of the decade, as you wish, for one or another different experience altogether. Last tasted November 2025

Like son, like father, so goes Etichetta as goes Brunello, of aromas fresh and succulent with liquorice up front. Rich elixir of sangiovese through all the waves of exotically charged località aromas and flavours. A Balsamico though not a savoury one, no it’s more herbal and sweetly appetizing. Stimulates the palate to prepare for more sips and were luck be on side, a plate of carne alla griglia. No necessity to specify which protein because AD 1441 will work with all and measurably so. Terrific work from the Squarcia family. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2024

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Nastagio 2020

Travel back one year, not as 2020 Riserva tasted in 2025 but rather Vigna, a Nastagio held back as if it were a matter of the former. In a way it is exactly that, an extra year in bottle before the market can get a hold of its treasures, namely of increased aromatic volume, of perfumes specific to vintage. There are many reasons to wait on these Brunelli, especially from 2020 because the extra year of aging has done wonders to develop and even exaggerate their charms. Case in point 2020 Nastagio, a fine sangiovese with essential acids and yet wood still a prominent factor, here beginning to truly open for the first time. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted November 2025

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – LOT. 1 2020

Newest label in the Col d’Orca portfolio with next generation Santiago Marrone in the design mix for Lot. 1, Etichetta style. Not too dissimilar to the classic label if perhaps a bit more stoic and vertical. Higher acid profile and red citrus intensity as well – To be honest the sensation is more of a food wine that was influenced by a lover of riesling. What that has to do with sangiovese is up to you to interpret. but it is what it is. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted November 2025

Giodo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2020

It seems like winemaker Riccardo Ferrari is extremely proud of his work with Brunello di Montalcino 2020, a very different wine from a truly apposite vintage. This when there was only one label and so all the Brunello fruit came here – This will change with a second label (Prètto) in 2021. A fast evolution happening, neither in reduction nor oxidation but in the way the fruit is showing, so floral and exotic at this stage. Tannins remain grippy and the wine finishes with a phenolic presence. Last tasted November 2025

There are profound examples of Brunello di Montalcino unique to place and more important vintage. This would be such a sangiovese because its aromas seem to be specific to the land from whence it came and flavours do the same. Or different, perhaps in deference to other wines yet apropos and consistent to itself. Dried herbs and brush, a Macchia Mediterranea ultra specific and in the end what we like to call evergreen biome. This is fascinating when you consider the oenological style of the maker but kudos to a winemaker who lets the land be the ultimate judge. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Clarity, finesse, focus and transparency, all English words to describe a Gorelli sangiovese yet none exacting enough to translate in Italian to say what you want to say. In any case a Brunello from 2020 that hits the correct notes and in this vintage with a true sense of località, whether that be defined as Canalicchio or something akin to Vigna del Lago. In any case there is a northeastern sensibility and an evergreen herbal aspect with true clay soil terroir. Still young and yet to integrate all of its Slavonian botti, finishing with a ton of chocolate. Last tasted September 2025

Welcome to one of the first and only reductive Brunelli and this from a wine 50 in during Benvenuto’s annual Montalcino affair. High toned sangiovese yet still tight and yet to unwind. Not yet ready for aromas to leap and bound from the glass, hiding back the fun and the fight. Some Brunello express this kind of tension on the nose and this would be a high and mighty example of such an animal. Closed fist of sangiovese strength with a savoury masala of lentisk, myrtle, heath, broom and rockrose in ever living-loving greens that currently pique the red fruit. Quite pure and also of a tannic intensity choosing not to relent. That and Botti Grandi with a mind to make a point as well but my goodness this Brunello is equipped with fruit and acidity to guarantee the prize will last long, the road well travelled and the destination far away. How can you not be seriously impressed by the content and structure of this wine? Drink 2027-2036. Tasted twice, November 2024

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Weather like 2022 and character like 2021 defines the dichotomy of Il Marroneto’s 2020 Brunello. Now settled one further year in bottle and frankly so much pleasure to be had at this early stage of its tenure. Purity of fruit and no walls to climb, nor hoops to jump through. “My objective is to have the same quality in every vintage,” says Iacopo. “Not the same wine, the same quality.” These are unbelievable tannins, suave yet finely grainy and working, working to develop and be ready to change when the time is right and the requiem to mature is necessary. Marroneto is a place to spend time with family and this 2020 really takes that to heart, not for the first time but in a new or rather next way. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Madonna delle Grazie 2020

Talk about the passion and the purity but with Madonna delle Grazie also the formidable assets of structural freight that in the current state do not want to relent. Then again in 2020 the difference between Brunello and Madonna delle Grazie is the first time the quality and stage presence of the two seem to be inching closer together. Meanwhile the natural sweetness of fruit makes this feel to be an amazingly elegant wine. Could there be a worry that separating the two will get harder and harder? No because the ’23 and ’24 vintages will see a larger chasm and going forward this will simply be a good problem to have. Drink this MdG as soon as you wish. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2025

L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2020

Classico Brunello is 70 percent Castelnuovo dell’Abate fruit plus the total production at the Alberello L’Aietta vines. Purely and expressly sangiovese with fine, tension-filled, implosive and instructive tannin. You may consider and call it old school but that would be simplifying the existential question. L’Aietta is an old soul in modern sangiovese, classic and forward thinking, knowing, experienced and looking straight ahead. So bloody proper and the feeling just speaks to the land, maker and what must be will be. Drink 2026-2032.Tasted September 2025

L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino DOC Alberelli 2020

Just 10 percent of the yield from L’Aietta’s Alberello vines are put into the 300 bottle production of the “Selezione Alberelli.” For Francesco Mulinari the normal Brunello sees a tartaric acidity number of 5.8 to 6.1 g/L and yet the Alberelli vines reach 6.4, with a lowest of the low Brunello pH of 3.25. Virtually unheard of and he’s certain it is the sandstone (Arenaria) soils that deliver this effect. A stoic, not yet static and surely poised sangiovese that may have no peers in the whole of Montalcino. Once again that sense of maturity and purpose, experience, acumen and reason with a look to the future. Tannic chain and freight are both serious yet inviting and coupled with the acidity the aging potential is endless. Drink 2028-2038.Tasted September 2025

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

A particular vintage with summer heat and harvest rain that made picking challenging and timing was everything. This fruit first came in early from Castelnuovo dell’Abate and then late post rains from that southern vineyard along with the harvest at La Fortuna. The result is elastic concentration while the overall profile maintains the presence of higher acidity. This is because the northeast can keep that aspect of structure going even while patience is exercised. The energy does not match 2019 and yet the savour in macchia and Balsamico exceeds that previous vintage. There is some liquorice and tar with a deeper resonance. Keep in mind no Riserva was made and so that fruit mixed in makes for a different expression of the Brunello. Drink 2025-2029.Tasted September 2025

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOC 2020

When you put your nose into 2020 Brunello you truly do sigh and say “this smells like Le Potazzine.” Which means classic, northwestern Montalcinese, timeless, reminding of 2016 and other democratic vintages that came before. Now in a moment like a scene in movie you can never forget that will repeat in both mind and imagination forever. This is Brunello. This is Le Potazzine. No Riserva in 2020. Last tasted September 2025

Even though the style and character of Brunello di Montalcino is not officially discussed in terms of “frazione,” in this part of the territory there is just something about the sangiovese way. Northwest that is, looking east to the village, at high elevation and with an ultra specific acidity. “Potazzinese” acidity and a Balsamico noted nowhere else but only on this narrow ridge shared five producers or less. This 2020 in “particolare” matched by purple fruit, not dark but shaded above its contemporaries, described as say cherry red and it’s just so intoxicating of a sangovese. As crunchy as they come. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2024

Molino di Sant’Antimo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Paolus 2020

Tasting Brunello 2020 and 2021 side by side reveals the polarization of two vintages, each unique and separated by their potential to transmit diversity but also because the more recent one is so youthful. You wonder if this 2020 was as tight and erudite one year ago and the answer is surely yes, but also no. The vintage is saltier, more like the Rosso 2023 and the seasoning shows less (yet still present) white pepper as compared to the Brunello 2021. You can see the appreciation for something like a Fuligni Brunello in Valeria’s classic style, abiding by her vineyard yet doing so in as clean and pure a way as could be possible. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2025

La Squadra Canadese at Patrizia Cencioni

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Patrizia Cencioni started to do spontaneous fermentations in 2020. The roses, fennel and spices perfume reminds of the 2023 Rosso di Montalcino and here there too is a sense of blood orange. This is quite a serious Brunello, layered an structured, yet to shed it’s baby fat, fully flesh out and my goodness it makes for a mouthful. Last tasted September 2025

Florally effusive as sangiovese that takes such matters to heart and here Brunello acts in exactly this way. The lithe and effortless is not always the best yet sometimes it’s just what the vintage ordered. Fineness and grace come from away with a Brunello that flies effortlessly and sweetly natural – indeed that is what this is. Bravissima. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2024

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Ofelio 2020

No shock that the Selezione 2020 is simply an exaggeration of the Classico Brunello’s riches, fruit more than anything but more than that there is texture, something you can really sit your teeth into, part rare meaty Fiorentina flesh and part plum leathery fruit. Impressive composure and architecture, strong, grippy, layered, fibrous and without pause. Easily two years away from full integration of the barrel and their effect upon the stature of the wine. Freedom will be blessed when it comes. Drink 2027-2032.Tasted September 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

Just six to eight months into the opening window of opportunity and timing could not be better, especially with local salumi made in Buonconvento. Notable softening and settling, especially of tannins for a sangiovese entering a next phase. Will age as expected although in three or four years time fungi will surely become part of the profile. Last tasted November 2025

Optimum ripeness found in a sangiovese of and for the vintage, just a bit to the right of the macerated and textural centre, yet reigned in at just about the right point. What stands out most for this Brunello is its length which indicates many things were done right. Will age somewhere between mid and long term. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2024

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Chiuso del Lupo 2020

The cru Brunello (acquired in 2016) for Poggio Landi, first vintage labeled as such and in terms aging it is made like a Riserva. The vineyard at 550m on Formazione Santa Fiora is due south of Montalcino, just south of and actually abutting Biondi-Santi. This is sangiovese so distinct, relative to location of course, far less affected by the aging in Botti Grandi to stand poised, focused and clearly finessed in its accomplished style. Very fine Brunello that is harvested later than Montosoli. “This is a soil I like,” says agronomist Lorenzo Bernini. “It took six or seven years and now the condition is great.” Drink 2027-2033. Tasted November 2025

Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

A variable vintage in Montalcino and so every wine will exist in a state of its own accord. In this case Ruffinos’s acts cool and reserved, aromatically quiet though there is an early sense of blue fruit to complement the classic red character of south by southeast fruit. Sweetly savoury and of a macchia that brings mint to meet what really does taste like blue fruit. Most curious and potential feels high. Last tasted September 2025

Sweet fruit and also acidity, combined, layered and working as one. Spot on correct and simplified Brunello di Montalcino that celebrates exactly what the vintage and the region need. The acidity is really the best of this sangiovese’s game, its calling card and the thing that will see longevity be added to its name. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Helichrysum 2020

Deeply fruited of a spectrum more than merely red. Plummy in a way with good freshness and ample energy, drive and force. A sweetness of that stone fruit, ultra ripe and acidity of a similar fashion. Quite tart and then tension sets in, on the palate and through to a drying tannic finish. Nearly a matter of black cherry stone at the finish. Last tasted November 2025

A brighter and less weightier expression as compared to the Annata and so the fruit purity is more readily apparent and visible. Gives the sangiovese its much needed crunch which means more freshness and airy quality. Still the chalky underbelly and compression from the mid-palate forward. Finishes steady and in the end the feeling gained is of a rock solid Etichetta 2020. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted November 2024

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

When you taste 2020 Classico Brunello side by side with the lifted 2021 you see vintage variation straight away. Back a year for a dusty, Balsamico inflected and higher toned style which is surely a matter of how fruit came away and come about from 2020. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigneto Poggio Doria 2020

One of two cru, both being one-plus hectare plots that make 3,000-4,000 bottles per year. “Our idea is to make traditional Brunello” says Marco Paier and only old cask are used, of 20, 50 and 80 hL, with a small amount of passage in smaller barrel. Hard to find a more modern, polished and elegant sangiovese with liquid black forest caky generosity than Poggio Doria. The nose is quiet, demure, willing to allow the flavours and textures to do the talking. Hard not to think you could drink this right away. Drink 2025-2030.Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Manachiara 2020

Silvio Nardi was a businessman from Umbria who purchased Casale del Bosco in 1950, first vintage was 1954 and Manachiara was acquired in 1962. The first vintage of this cru-designate Montalcino sangiovese was 1995. I mean if you close your eyes you might imagine Right Bank Bordeaux with high level richness and concentration. Follow that up with full wood nurturing and notes of caramel, soy and so much umami. The tannins at this stage are hard an austere so let them settle and see what will come of the composition as a whole. Plenty of patience required. Drink 2027-2032.Tasted September 2025

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Vescovo 2020

One of four single vineyard Le Prata Brunello only made when the combination of vineyard and vintage are right or for when a distinct expression separates from the Brunello. In this case a wild character replete with a feral note that is hard not to be explained other than some Brettanomyces captured within. A second taste also reveals some TCA. Tasted September 2025

With Federico Radi and Giampiero Bertolini, Biondi-Santi

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

The smile in winemaker Federico Radi’s eyes tells you much of what you need to know for how he feels about the 2019 vintage. Though Riserva (like the Brunello) is released a year later than almost all others in Montalcino there is a feeling about this wine that speaks to immediate gratification it is curiously capable of providing. The acidity is tops for ’19, sweet and oscillating, coming at the palate in waves, fruit surfing its crests and crashing across with maximum flavour. After the rains of August 31 through September 2 the balancing of atmospheric conditions during a dry two weeks created ideal ripening conditions between September 10th and 15th. The only part of 2019 that needs more time in bottle for integration is wood, this being the second vintage after which new casks were beginning to replace some older ones in the cellar. In that sense there is some resurfacing on this sangiovese yet also harmony and consistency from Riserva, two aspects that will guarantee not only longevity but also an abiding to what Radi, Giampiero Bertolini and their teams desire. Demand as well, to speak for the vineyards and relate the long Biondi-Santi story. Drink 2027-2045. Tasted November 2025

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Gualto 2019

Really come together, maybe even ahead of schedule, window open, not fully though just six more months will show all the cards. A special sangiovese from Camigliano in 2019 now and for 10 more years. Last tasted September 2025

Strong perfumes, maximum. floral inhalant properly aggressive and engaging. You might expect a peppery kick to the aromas but you can take the longest breath in and the sangiovese nurtures, while opening you up for what’s to come. My goodness what a finessed and seamless experience this delivers, never too high or too low, always incisive and inviting. This house got both of its Brunello so right in 2019 and also 2020. They are not to be missed. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

La Squadra Canadese at Banfi

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio all’Oro 2019

Not produced in every vintage, first made in 1985. Not far from the Castello Banfi, direction Montalcino, 20 hectares at 450m with the oldest part planted in the 1970s. Finest acidity of all the Banfi Brunello, fruit brighter and energy higher. A cold winter and plenty of April through May rains, followed by a dry and beautiful summer, ending with a later harvest. High quantity needed to be reduced and the final product is the most silky, glycerol sangiovese with suave tannin. The vineyard has now been re-planted with massal section of the best plants from the old vineyard. Will be released in October. Last tasted September 2025

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Unexpected but coming at 2019 for the first time and two years after its anteprima release there is this blood orange quality that reminds of 2013. Just the first stages of maturity are showing and this from the first vintage when natural ferments and Piedmontazine techniques were introduced by a young Tommaso Squarcia into his wines. A bit more wood here, certainly as compared to what begins to change with the 2020 vintage. Nevertheless welcome to another harmonious and elegant Castello Tricerchi vintage. A few new barrels for a vintage and period of transition. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Io Sono Donatella 2019

First vintage for “I am Donatella” was 2010, of fruit well considered in the vineyard and then wines resting in barrel that show themselves to be different.” A meaning that quips I am what I am and also a joke that “says we are able to do things and this is us.” The medieval study of gold and enamels from the Middle Ages marks the label for the unique sangiovese also made in 2012, 2013, 2015 and 2016. Two types of wood are used, medium-sized and also botte grande cask for this third Brunello aisle with the the fourth being Riserva. Sees a bit more than two years of aging before finishing in cement eggs. Exaggerated riches and Balsamico, refinement at the height of a Donatella sangiovese with more spice run through than all the other wines combined. An expression full and knowing exactly what it purports and wants to be. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2025

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

The initial assessment posted two years ago for the Franco Pacenti family’s 2019 was clearly spot on – The proof lies in the state we find it residing in today, free, clear, untouched, unmoved, non-plussed and so far from exhibiting any significant change. Drink this now, as you wish and also be confident the first stage of its life still has a minimum two years left before any sense of next phase maturity will set in. Last tasted November 2025

The vintage is a generous one, also easy as they come, that much we know. Some sangiovese come away clean, fruity and free, others dense and tannic. Then come the Brunello ‘19s that combine every element, or at least a plethora of possibilities to exact Annata in ways that are full, layered and balanced. Some may say the best estates are the ones that succeed in the most challenging vintages and France Pacenti is one of those, but true excellence comes from those who achieve their goals both ways. Allow to be intrigued and introduced by a Brunello di Montalcino so very whole and built for all the ways that these sangiovese are capable of expressing their territory. The past and the future connected, forged and for all the right reasons. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted November 2023

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Rosildo 2019

Yes Brunelo 2019 persists in a primary state, as of course does Rosidlo as well but the Cru sangiovese also speaks so clearly for the Canalicchio area in northeast Montalcino. The fruit is so clearly from this place and yet not every producer who inhabits this location gets the most out of their Sangiovese like Pacenti’s success. Some press too much to turn out harder wines, others barrel up with darker expressions and at least one succeeds with similar distinction. The ’19 Rosildo provides proof of its success here in 2025. Last tasted November 2025

The Etiquetta Rosildo is an easy and understandable transference from Franco Pacenti’s Annata label in Brunello for the 2019 vintage. What separates this sangiovese more than anything are its hyperbole of perfumes, aromatic fruits and seasoning that jump from the glass so much stronger with heightened expression. Neither peppery nor spicy but more so the effect felt from smelling the roses and opening jars to see which fragrance your intuition tells to spice what dish you are preparing. And so yes what you have here is a Brunello of gastronomy, a wine the chef has prepared and it is a complex one. The tannins here are very taut and compact, the probability for ageing much higher and potential truly serious. Impressive ’19 this Rosildo, up there with the vintage’s best. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted November 2023

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

From Brunello through Rosildo to Riserva and the thread between the three is unmistakable. Similar Grosso clone of sangiovese, red fruit marked by glycerol, suave texture, sweet acidity and fullness on the palate. The first two tiers are the best wines made by France Pacenti and Riserva joins the ranks although there is more volume and density in this top echelon Brunello. A serious inhalant and a wine that grabs hold of attention, without relenting and demands that you pay it the highest possible amount of heed. Silky, sleek and seductive with a chalky underlay that speaks to needing three years to come together as one. Hard to find greater fruit or potential as compared with Rosildo and yet at the end of a night there may just be a glass to two left in the bottle while the other Brunelli are poured out. Just because of a matter of structure in economies of scale. Hard to say which of the two will live longer, the one of focus or the one of elegance. The question is, which one is which? To be fair, Riserva in 2019 shows more grip. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2025

Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

“An annata più complessa,” insists Gabriele Gorelli and it would be fruitless to argue against the sentiment. Purity and sapidity walking hand in hand, red fruit so bloody consistent with all his Rosso and Brunello starting with this vintage, running through 2022 and all the ‘23s and ‘24s tasted from barrel. The consistency of style and effect is astonishing. The harmony between mouthfeel, acidity and fine tannin confirm the position and the advantage. Last tasted September 2025

Gorelli’s 2019 is unlike any other and while that can be said about many Montalcino Brunello in this case the clarity of that comment makes great and knowable sense. The aromas are particular, high casted, tonal, lifted and akin to scraping hard red fruit skins, getting their citrus musk under your nails and staying with you as you work through your day. Long lasting aromas part agricultural and part gastronomical. The Gorelli 2019 is also economical with neither gratuitous nor wasted moments. There is no distraction save for some botti texture that needs to melt a bit and find union with the excellent perfumes. The balsamic note late confirms the circle of sangiovese life to say longevity will be the right kind. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2023

Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

If the Classico Brunello is considered in complex terms than condor Riserva as an exaggeration of such riches. Riserva for Goreli must be taken seriously, not released just one day after the turn of the calendar and aged longer, held longer, kept through another season. This extra time helps all of us understand and comprehend what he is trying to accomplish and more importantly giving the wine its due. The tannins are still somewhat massive, certainly in control and doing what is necessary to earn their keep and fulfil their charge. Fruit can handle the naked truth and keep up with the structure. Last tasted September 2025

Not your Nonno’s Riserva, nor a clean and modern iteration, but something other. A deep well filled with serious, concentrated and even severe aromas hard to decipher. Deepest inhalant, fullest volume, as vigorously distilled and undiluted as they come. No let down on the palate and while there is a modicum of volatility its actually met, challenged and suppressed by this proper realization of reduction and never dissipating spice. Casks have much to do with all of this and the wine is far from finished, but three years should bring everything into view. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted November 2024

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Riserva comes from all parts, including Le Quercia, a big oak tree marking the 40 year-old vineyard in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. A part of the steep block exposed south grows small, loose berries that serve the Riserva with a special quality. Sees three years in 27 hL Botti and one in barriques (new, 2nd and 3rd) for an old school concept made as a most modern sangiovese. Wood is a factor no doubt, as ideally is concentration. To handle that truth and the catalyst is top notch acidity, as you will find in all of La Fortuna’s wines. The first Riserva was 1999 and here 20 years later there is just something understood, experienced and mature about its ways. Drink 2025-2031.Tasted September 2025

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Giobi 2019

Giobi for Gioberto, Angelo’s father’s nickname for a great man who passed away in 2023. First produced in 2010, a Selezione of just 1,500 bottles that will be carried on. Sees three years in tonneaux and en extra year in bottle before release. Now tasting the ’19 nearly two years later there is no decline of freshness, the selection was obviously prudent, cerebrally organized and the vineyards in Castelnuovo dell’Abate are the important source. Shows a father’s romantic connection to the place he obviously loved and his instincts were clearly on point. May not be the kind of Brunello now in fashion but we should all love and appreciate it just the same. Last tasted September 2025

Etichetta labeled 2019 Giobi is a fine step forward and up for La Fortuna, fruit of a similar if surely richer ilk. You can really feel the extra levels and layers of constituent parts that form, build and mold this sangiovese into the full and substantial edifice it is. Should drink well for a decade and a half from now. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted November 2023

With le donne of Le Potazzine

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOC 2019

Riserva must be something different. End stop. One more year in wood and one step up in concentration is still the same wine, but not at Le Potazzine. And so 2019 follows 2015, 2011, 2006 and 2004, with 2021 the next up. These are the seasons that delivered something other. All these parts are together as one but the wine has only been in bottle for nine months and the tannins are less than 2021 so there is a minimum 15 months left before the 2019 even considers becoming a Brunello. There can be little apprehension in saying 2019 will be one of the longer lived Riserva for Le Potazzine. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted September 2025

Campione: The first Riserva produced at Le Potazzine since 2015 and one of the only estates not to make one in 2016. Not the first time Gigliola Gianetti and her daughters chose to do something different than the rest. A dichotomous Riserva because the fruit is so ripe and well developed juxtaposed against that classic Potazzinese acidity raging high. This local Balsamico is uncanny, Only the third Riserva made, including ’11 and ’15. The singular Riserva, of gentle extraction, a wet submerged cap and the elegance you need to know. Drink 2028-2040. Tasted November 2024

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 123 2019

Everything that 2020 is, so too is 2019 but the vintage also brings in an extra element of seriously sweet and seductive acidity. This represents the magical addition to elevate the entire game of Brunello Riserva and shows Patrizia Cencioni’s ’19 holding a card that many others do not have. Expresses fruit in a gregarious while also haute sangiovese way for something extra and special. The cask aging plays a major role, namely in how spiced the wine has become and time will soften the edginess, however tension is something that can’t be denied, avoided or wished for this wine to be without. Last tasted September 2025

Rich Riserva with plenty of cask aging imparted into the aromas and especially the texture of the silky, glistening and chocolatey sangiovese. Terrific acids are the impetus for its structural significance and also the reason it will drink well for many years to come. The style is contemporary if not immediate and should appeal to a great many lovers of Brunello di Montalcino. Especially those who choose Riserva. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted November 2024

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Bosco Alto 2019

With Brunello di Montalcino there is always the understood concept of sangiovese given an extra year in bottle and there then is the effect of a vintage like 2019. This to see a Brizio Brunello (Riserva or otherwise) come to its peak performance. The time is now coming upon this Riserva, to be enjoyed, prefreably with a chef’s deft touch put into a plate of Tagliatelle with a ragù of wild boar. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Terrific moment to revisit Dievole’s 2019 in Poggio Landi, just two days after having tasted through 2021 and 2020 in Montalcino. Right in the middle of the open window right now, perfumes at peak, middle weight and structure set at the precise halfway mark of the wine’s best performance. Last tasted November 2025

A bright, airy and cool Brunello for 2019, not surprising considering the northwesterly localitá. Still there is next level richness for the estate and a sign of what the future will bring when vintages are warm and fruit achieves top phenolic ripeness. As here with a red fruit scintillant but acids so fresh and ripe they really tie the sangiovese threads together. Essential style and effect if simple but all that makes this a really fine Brunello, one to relish and really want to drink. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2023

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Chiuso del Lupo 2019

A Brunello aged 38 months with fruit from the vineyard on the road to Montalcino’s southern areas although the località is quite close to the hill. It actually lies next to Biondi-Santi on the local name for the marl and limestone geology called Formazione Santa Fiora. There is freshness in 2019, more than 2020 to come and this is the difference between the two vintages for Poggio Landi. Drink or hold five more years easy. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Perhaps not the freshness of 2020 but in Riserva that idea is not quite as essential in defining the personality of this kind of wine. That said the acidity from 2019 is impressive, showing no signs of dissipating, nor will it as long as you keep bottles of this wine. The character feels very much in line with Brunello 2020 although the muscles flex more in Riserva 2019. Showing with poise and focus today. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2025

Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

Remarkably open and generous aromas lead into juicy, succulent and icy berry flavours like a dry sangiovese granita. There is some grip and firmness in the tannin to complement and thus complete the picture. Would not orate on this being the most complex Brunello ever made, but to say it is fitting, proper and representative of Brunello di Montalcino would be speaking the truth. Last tasted September 2025

Greppone Mazzi is in fine form from 2019 with about as much cherry red fruit capture as ever before. A haute couture of Brunello from Ruffino and their eastern Montalcino estate where warm days and nights for days on end add up to so much sun accumulation for ripe and ready Brunello. No lack of flavour and texture here, nor acidity and austere tannin neither. Needs time, food and the best situation. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

From a plot of 3.2 hectares called Greppone Grande, a single vineyard at 420m that makes approximately 4,000 bottles. This vintage spent 36-plus months in 25 hL cask. Recently bottled and so a full year later than most 2019 Riserva in Montalcino, settled and mature for a sangiovese pretty much ready to go. Winemaker Alberto will reduce the aging amount to 24 (in wood) starting with the 2025 vintage. Red fruit as with the Brunello, consistent from one to the next though obviously oak influence noted and while the wine is ready to drink it will be needing time to melt in. Liquid chalky, concentration to handle the wood and a creamy mid-palate. Tastes like sangiovese and Brunello though again there is a fullness of barrel dominating this wine. Drink 2025-2029.Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019

Riserva literally means it only qualifies for that appellation in a year deemed worthy of the esteem. “A true Riserva” says Marco Paiaer and while tasting 2021 side by side only reveals an immense set of tannin in a formidably structured Bruello – Well 2019 is no shrinking violet. Deep, dark, full, rich and layered with the most compact elements and while there is some light showing in the dark sky, there still need to be more passing of time to get to the crux of this wine. Last tasted September 2025

Quite a ripe expression for Brunello Riserva, of deeply rendered sangiovese fruit. Leads to the idea that this should be consumed on the earlier side, well ahead of some higher-toned and frantically energetic peers. The tannins are present, as is the feeling of wood and so one year forward should exact the right time for this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019

A blend of the four vineyards of a total three hectares on the four hectare Villa Le Prata estate. A full on natural sangiovese sweetness rich in everything, including macchia, Balsamico and minerals. Layered, balanced and about as substantial as you could hope for in a Brunello not qualified as anything but what it is. Silky, non-gratuitous glycerin, joyous and structured for drinking soon to slightly later on. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2025

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Massimo 2019

Massimo as a vineyard creates sangiovese highest in poly-phenolic properties and there is no mistaking the botanical character moving into a comport of structure with some obvious and in control tannin. The layers and intersection of parts with notable verticality and backbone make for a 2019 with more grip than many a Vigna Brunello. Length is exceptional and the restraint is key to seeing a great future ahead. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2025

Castello Tricerchi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Drinking at peak right in the heart of its intended and promised window, wood melted in, chocolate shed of its dark austerity and fruit persistent in its captured freshness. Three years left but the next 18 months will be this ’18’s best. Last tasted November 2025

Maturity and acumen increase, improve and travel forward from vintage to vintage for a Montalcino producer that is surely on the cusp of something special. The work put in and humility expressed will only keep the train on the track for sangiovese to occupy the minds and hearts of all who know. Within the framework of a peppery reductive 2018 the fruit here expands and oscillates in swells on repeat though each and every wave stops short of crashing upon a tannic shore. For the first time after tasting 30 Annata the sweetness of acidity really stands above and without tart edginess. Grande. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2022

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG “Late Release” 2018

A late release 2018 of 3,000 bottles “to have something special for clients” says Violante Gardini, with just a tweak on the bottom part of the label to indicate the extra aging. Born different with certain vines delivering fruit kept separate and not destined for the original 2018 Brunello, nor for Prime Donne or Riserva. In the end it is a “Selezione,” an oft used term in Italian wine and so not written on the label – but that is essentially what this is. A one-off, at least until now, more wood felt now well integrated into a softened, smooth and seductive elixir. A natural sweetness that the Brunello does not necessarily express and really quite easy to drink. Last tasted September 2025

Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Though there was some question as to how “light” 2018 was as a vintage, Gorelli says there is a real similarity with 2024 which received a full consensus on its lightness. That said there is some grip and substance to his Brunello which only goes to show how he makes his wines and it’s a good thing he does it this way. Any more extraction and push would have resulted in a shove of jam and greenness, two aspects obviously wishing to be avoided. Instead there is charm and restraint with wood filling in any holes there might have been. Now calming and coming into a good and cool place, with ample natural sweetness. Last tasted September 2025

Serious aromatic concentration yet in a most elastic and expressive way there arrives the immediacy of Gorelli’s Annata. The reality continues on the palate for a quantifiably gregarious and rich sangiovese of layers upon layers of fruit and structure. Not a matter of acidity so much as a wine in which that integration is both gracious and invisible. What a beautiful 2018 Annata. Drink 2023-2029. Tasted November 2022

Edoardo Losappio, Villa Le Prata

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Le Prata 2018

Single vineyard Brunello known as the “hare” in its first year produced by winemaker Edoardo Losappio, on the right side of the cypress tree road up to the gate planted by massal selection to sangiovese of the thinnest skinned-grapes. They must be in top condition and age to a particular profile after two years to be chosen as one to be bottled as a single vineyard wine. Most aromatic sangiovese, of local Balsamico, as in the oils expressed when you run your fingers through herbs, whether they be rosemary, thyme or sage. Also the uncanny aroma of blood orange, a sweet citrus scenting mixed with Le Prata’s herbal plenitude. Something special for the vintage. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2025

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna San Prospero 2018

One of the four single vineyard (Vigna) wines produced when the vintage and quality are right, here from the first vintage when the concept was introduced and Riserva was cast away. More red and orange citrus from Prospero, exiled rightful duke of Milan and a master magician. Not here, not exiled like Riserva but instead this perfectly liquid chalky sangiovese that has matured, settled and come ready to be beautiful. Quite fine, its tension filed away and pleasant drinking in current fine form. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016

Dio mio the aromatic freshness of 2016 is remarkable, of purple fruit that seems to speak to the northeast sector at Torrenieri as much as anything else. Flavours are beginning to mature though acidity keeps the energy and faith very much alive. This earlier example of a Poggio Land does well to foreshadow the future for what is possible from their combined vineyards near Montosoli, at Torrenieri and Chiuso del Lupo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Elia Palazzesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015

A lovely sway of spice in the perfume of a 10 year-old Brunello from a 10 ha estate, the wine macerated for 25 days in steel and aged 30 months in Botti Grandi. It’s classic and clean, traditional and pure, wood so sweet and silk threaded through fruit now passing uninterrupted past the portal to secondary life. All is settling in this elegant sangiovese that feels like it came out yesterday but is now a half generation away. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

La Serena Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Gemini 2015

The Gemini are off course twins, as in the winemaker and his brother, architect and designer of the cellar. This Gemini as a 10 year-old Riserva is quite fresh and spirited with truly purple fruit and for the appellative level found to be right where you would wish a maturing, but far from old Brunello to be. A treat with vibrancy, vital acidity and a cool herbal, almost dry amaro streak running through. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012

Older vintage, now well into secondary character with ample freshness persistent in the aromas. Sweetness abounds, naturally so and while age is apparent you feel a cool vintage in the mint, sweet herbs and absence of fungi notes. An educated guess would be 2014 or 2013 for this aged Brunello. Truly elegant and stylish at this age. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Tenute Silvio Nardi, September 2025

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2010

No doubt the child of one of Montalcino’s warmer vintages though not what should be considered or remembered as “hot.” Showing a bricking maturity for sure but the core of the wine exhibits fullness and the extraction of the day. Also the wood and ample warmth not yet fully cooled down, perhaps needing to fully but no matter because it’s all about cover weather comfort. There is a brown sugar caramelized feeling, balanced between fruit acquiring a leathery chew and tannins softening into their next position. Flavours are pure gastronomical pleasure and texture truly satisfies. Acidity as well with the finish going long and deep. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2025

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2007

Rainy spring, hot summer and 10 year-old plants at the time that could begin to show the real identity of single vineyard Brunello. A vintage that began under the guidance of Carlo Ferrini and finished by Valerie Lavigne still present and making the wines today. A sangiovese that would have shown maturity from the start and has impossibly maintained its state of being through to 18 years later. The nose is persistently fresh, with great nuance and some heat, the palate expressive of sweet volatility and a liquid confluence of soils. Far from a perfect wine but with its inherent flaws their is grace and longevity under pressure. Flawed no more because all has been resolved and forgiven. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2001

Well into this Brunello’s tenure with shoe polish, soy, tiramisu, Tia Maria and caramel in a very mature Classico. Just has to be a warmest of warm vintages, perhaps younger than you think because the tannin is up front with grip and tension holding on. Likely 2007 and possibly 2004.Tasted blind at Tenute Silvio Nardi, September 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 1988

Knowably older than the previous Classico Brunello tasted blind and here a more youthful expression with fresh red fruit right there on the floral front. A bit dusty with a local forest, Casale del Bosco macchia that really comes through at the 20-25 year stage. Just what you expect and wish for from a Brunello going back to another era. Really salty. The guess is 1998 or 2000.Tasted blind at Tenute Silvio Nardi, September 2025

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 1983

Nearly 42 years after the 1983 harvest and the aromatics are not merely effusive but in a word explosive. This inclusive of a fruit freshness that by all means and matters of practicality should not be there. Every bottle of Biondi-Santi at the focal point where the crest is displayed is marked by the words Marca and Propria. Brand and trademark of propriety and when you taste something like this you simply say proper. Of heritage and character, persistence and longevity. Tannins are obviously no longer present, nor do they need to be because the acidity lingering is simply magical. As are perfumes of flowers and more notable the classic sottobosco of Montalcino. This feels like a dream and one not wished to wake from, but to let it linger, with cranberry and a feeling of blood orange spiked by spices and saffron, the finish vaguely salty, almost like caramel chocolate. This much might be said to 1983 Riserva. “I’m in so deep. You know I’m such a fool for you. You got me wrapped around your finger.” Drink 2025-2028. Tasted November 2025

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOC 1979

Wow, holy umami Batman. The aromas are so tertiary and curious it ’s almost impossible to dream just how far back this Brunello goes. Likely from the 90s and perhaps early in that decade. The guess could very well be 1975 or a vintage when it rained incessantly and there is blood orange here, even saffron, which suggest botrytis. Give it 10 more minutes and the Porcino soup begins to emerge. Tasted blind at Tenute Silvio Nardi, September 2025

Bernardino Sani, Argiano

Toscana IGT and Other Wines

Castello Tricerchi Sangiovese Luli’o 2024, Toscana IGT

First harvest of sangiovese off of the youngest vines in the lowest part of the vineyard. The grapes that would otherwise be green harvested and still are by others who “waste” fruit raised with great effort through hard-fought seasons. Simple winemaking results in 13 percent alcohol, a Rosso di Rosso di Montalcino, juicy and authentic, proper to the greatest degree. Natural and glou-glou. RdRdM. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted November 2025

Giodo La Quinta 2023, Toscana Sangiovese IGT

The Montalcinese IGT now in its sixth year aged in big cask and amphora, the twain split just above half and half. In some sense a “second wine” for Giodo with the grapes not destined to participate in the Brunello. That said they come from a classified Brunello vineyard and so La Quinta is most definitely a choice. The name is the fifth vineyard plate assigned by proprietor and oenologist Carlo Ferrini and thus the name. Clocks in at half a degree less than the Brunello (and now also the Rosso) with the light shone on reddest sangiovese imaginable for one of Montalcino’s brightest Rosso styled wines. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted November 2025

Le Potazzine Sangiovese 2024, Toscana IGT

A vintage with outlandish quantity and so first an August green harvest for dropping fruit, without making Rosé because “we have the best grapes in the world,” says Viola Gorelli. “Why would we make anything else.” Spicy nose, cinnamon stick and the juicy feeling that fresh sangiovese will give. This is what you want from a young entry into Montalcino before you consider what Rosso will bring followed by where Brunello can go. Just recently bottled for 6,200 bottles made. Perfect for a mix of the three. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2025

Villa Le Prata Sangiovese Le Prata 2024, Toscana IGT

“The (sangiovese) is the more informal and easygoing wine we produce,” explains winemaker Eduardo, “made with 50 percent whole cluster on skins and carbonic maceration for one week and without sulphites,” but not so late that body and sweetness are the result. More in a Governo Toscano style, from two harvests two weeks apart with the second pick layered upon the first ferment. Aromas are just what you might expect from a sangiovese made this way; wild, woolly and dramatically fresh. Sangiovese made in the way the cool kids will want to drink at the highest level – Think Cigliano di Sopra in San Casciano. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2025

Argiano Solengo 2023, Toscana Rosso IGT

“From the 2015 vintage we tried to go back to the days of Tachis for the Super Tuscan,” tells Bernardino Sani, “and to change the style.” Now 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, (20) cabernet franc and petit verdot with a small amount of sangiovese, with no merlot because it was lost to Peronospora and then the heatwave. Ages for 15 months in 50 per cent new Taransaud wood, some larger Garbellotto casks and a few used barriques. Finishes in cement before bottling. Sweet vanillin and fruit equally red to blue, herbal though not exactly minty, more like an essential oil of wild thyme or marjoram. A bit tight still, acidity quite sweet and a lift to the wine. All follows the original floral effect and in the end the palate experience is one a a truly silken and refined blend. 60,000-70,000 bottles annually. Drink 2026-2031.Tasted September 2025

Gorelli Sangiovese Brigo 2023, Toscana IGT

Young sangiovese, lifted and reductive, freshness with fruit that imagines the Tuscan corbezzolo fruit with its red acid twang. Evergreen note, Christmas Tree cool and verdant. Fresh but never aggressive, substantial enough and Montalcinese without infringing on Rosso or Brunello. Chalky finish suggests some tannic presence. More sapidity than most local sangiovese and finishing with cocoa despite never having spent a moment in wood. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted September 2025

L’Aietta Trebbiano Mania 2023

Skin-contact trebbiano, 25 days on the skins, aged in amphora. An experiment and maybe will be called Mania, goddess of the afterlife, but written right to left, like the Arameans. And this acts just like that, opposite of what you expect, of vivid aromas and a sweetness on the palate that keeps bitterness at bay. Crushable with a stone fruit profile that is so much more inviting and seductive than most wines of this ilk. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2025

Carma 2021, Toscana IGT

New project in Radda in Chianti of builder Massimo Guarnacshelli, second vintage for only sangiovese grown above 600m of elevation. Across the road from Castello di Albola and Poggerino for a remarkable early effort just a bit pressed to eke out extra fruit from the high elevation vineyard. The vineyard has rights for Chianti Classico but for now father and daughter are bottling under IGT. There are some green tannins and yet the fruit and style remind of other Radda wines like Poggerino and Val delle Corti. The future looks very promising for this three hectare project and just 1,000 bottles currently made. Drink 2025-2027.Tasted September 2025

L’Aietta Spumante Rosé Metodo Classico Non Dosato 2012

Francesco Mulinari began to make sparkling in 2010 with this 2012 having spent 84 months on the lees. Colour is Rosato, in part because of some original skin contact and also obviously age having compounded the effect. Three reasons for starting the program, first to stop wasting fruit to green harvest and second because his mother Loretta didn’t drink red wine. The fruit is only from the 0.5 hectare plot in Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the lowest part of the vineyard. The result is still zero residual sugar. Apple skin, orange zest and east African spice, a Zanzibar or Madagascar exoticism. It’s all very intoxicating with a furious tang. Sweet Loretta Martin, “get back to where you once belong.” Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2025

L’Aietta Rosé Spumante Metodo Classico Non Dosato 2019

The 2019 is the first classic method sparkling wine that Francesco Mulinari used no white sugar but instead sangiovese juice is added after fermentation, raising the alcohol from 10 to 12 percent but also adding flavour. Just turned upside down a few minutes ago and so the nose is not perfectly clean but the high acidity and complexity are something special. A bit rough, tumble and acetic right now. Tasted September 2025

L’Aietta Senza Tempo III, Toscano Rosso IGT

A wine reward, a gratificante offered up by Francesco Mulinari called “Senza Tempo,” its meaning timeless and made form the best sangiovese, “the perpetual wine” made with vintages from 2014 through 2018. The next and fifth edition will hold some drops of ’14 and travel to 2019. A rare multi vintage Rosso from Montalcino and most unique because it pulls the best fruit away from Rosso, Brunello and Brunello Selezione. Only bottled in Magnum, 150 of them for this third edition. Going forward probably only 75, half of a barrique. Tastes like an aged Brunello, say 10 years old, secondary leather and carob notes joining the macchia and Amaro herbals. Chewy liquorice and herbal pesto. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2025

Good to go!

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Twenty-five mind blowing wines of 2025

Dec29

To perform an exercise 13 years running is commitment, on repeat annum per annum, the messenger thanking the maker. Tasting and assessing wine is like wandering a maze of streets folding in on themselves with travel playing the most significant role, adjusting weights and measures for how a list will be conceived. In 2024 Chianti Classico played their major roles, as did Sicily and in particular L’Etna. The mountain wines will again in 2025, so will South Africa and the Tuscan appellations once again. Expect Montepulciano to join the fray next year. These are the contiguous rules of vinous engagement, always in flux, committed to memory, ready for anything that comes this way.

This is alchemy, not science, trails in the ether, thoughts put to paper and tapped furiously across keys. Not necessarily best of, but instead that which intrigues to the highest of degrees. That which blows the mind.

Godello reviewed 3,500 wines in 2025, give or take, down eight percent from 2024 but such things are not a matter of wine or death. Than again the breakdown is quite consistent; thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (10) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (18) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 25, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2025. Here are his twenty-five mind-blowing wines of 2025.

Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée, Chilham, Kent, England

This is the third Kent bubble being poured in these late November WineAlign fizz sessions and the third to impress. If only fruit would ripen every year in that part of the world then these vineyards and their makers’ work would really add up to something extraordinary. In time this will happen and as it stands the Evremond Classic Cuvée from Patrick McGrath MW and his Taittinger benefactors is a fine ode to a man buried in Poet’s Corner, Westminster Abbey. Sharp, focused and devilishly delicious, finely chisled and rich enough to become your great friend. Impressive indeed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Perrier Jouet Champagne Belle Epoque Blanc De Blancs 2017, Champagne AC, France

First vintage of the Blanc de Blancs was 1993, 162 years after the house was realized by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and his wife Rose Adélaïde Jouët. Chardonnay comes from two top Cramant crus, Bouron Leroi and Bouron du Midi, aged a minimum six years and with a dosage of eight g/L. There could not be another Blanc de Blancs as subtle, restrained and delicate as this Belle Epoque, the least startling of them all, simply put, a wine of indelible grace. Goes without saying that concentration is at peak and this is where the Champagne’s great intensity gets its lift. Have rarely tasted anything so full and developed, here with obvious autolysis though that’s simply not the leading aspect to focus upon. Once again texture is all and the palate wishes for nothing further, nor is anything left on the table. 30,000-40,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2041. Tasted April 2025

Vassaltis Santorini Assyrtiko PDO 2023, Santorini, Greece

Great passion vintage after vintage from proprietor Yannis Valambous alongside consulting oenologists Elias Roussakis and Yannis Papaeconomou. Now 11-plus years into their tenure with fruit coming from decades old vineyards planted by Valambous’ father Vassilis. The world of assyrtiko is the furthest from varietal one-dimensionality and in Valambous’ small corner the intricacies are boundless, multifarious and endless. The quality climbs another notch with this 2023 to speak for Santorini in not only clear vernacular but with great precision and style. Implosive and inward as they come, nowhere near opening and wound as if a wire around a winch. The volcanic salinity and coiled extract are entwined with tannins so pointed and sharp you can file your palate on its sold stone groove. All that said the levels substance and concentration are second to none. A discovery of highest interest and intensity awaits. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Hiedler Ried Schenkenbichl 1.ötw Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal DAC, Austria

A year older and one closer to a grüner veltliner on the cusp of developing secondary character from 60 year-old vines raised on the Schenkenbichl. A vineyard of dark amphibolite geology that gives this varietal wine its distinct smoky character. The extra year in bottle is partly responsible but also the vintage which deliver more flesh and unction than the following one. The ’22 is special, not that ’23 is not but this mix of pulpy stone fruit and flintiness combines for extraordinary waves of grüner veltliner gifts. This time next year will mark an amazing moment for this wine. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2025

Mullineux Old Vines White Wo Swartland 2024, WO Swartland, South Africa

The current and modern South African recursions of blending white varieties off of old vine plantings is a Swartland specialty that dates back approximately 25 or so years. Mullineux is entrenched in the revolution and this sku has long been a going concern. Their takes often provide more elegant solutions to certain problems with successes just as impressive as efficiencies. They generally look to two-thirds chenin blanc, with smaller proportions of clairette blanche, grenache blanc, semillon, viognier, and verdelho. Where else in the world can vine-growing and maturing experience from ancient soils and so many thriving grape varieties add up to this much complexity and pleasure? The 2024 is about as concentrated and fruit-centric as any, while the underlying mineral thematic controls the wine’s manifest destiny. This will be fascinating to taste eight to ten years from now and also each and every step along the way. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted August 2025

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc 2023, AOC Rhône, France

The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape by La Nerthe is composed from 40 percent grenache blanc, (34) roussanne, (20) clairette and (6) bourboulenc. As golden hued and sun cumulate as any Rhône white could be for 2023, full of local riches and generosity off the proverbial southern charts. A pure Blanc with powerful restraint and controlled energy to shed complex layers one pixel at a time over the span of many years, potentially two decades long. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted December 2025

Beare Green Winery Chardonnay Clonal Blend 2023, Surrey, England

From Wine with Jimmy’s (jimmy Smith) and a project that started in 2022 with a real core aim to make “low intervention English wine.” A wine made beneath a “perennial dark cloud in a marginal maritime climate” tells Jimmy. A chardonnay of a short ripening season, an average of 700mm of rainfall (and 1,700 in 2024) for lean, edgy, on the edge of cool wine production. “I want English wines to have electric acidity,” says Smith. His chardonnay is lean yet charming, more than somehow because the wine is balanced in spite of its searing intensity. The intrigue is palpable and real. This chardonnay may age for a very long time. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4c, July 2025

Rottensteiner Vigna Premstallerhof Santa Maddalena Classico 2023, Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC, Italy

Poster schiava (with seven percent lagrein) child to represent the DOC revolution that is Santa Maddalena Classico of a very special (and volcanic) single vineyard wine. The voice of South Tyrol at 12.8 percent alcohol. Pure and abundant, crushed velvet textured and luxurious. Remember the name Premstallerhof because this will surely become a Grand Cru site for Südtirol-Alto Adige. Feel the necessity of each year getting your hands on a few of the just 18,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted December 2024

Arianna Occhipinti Bb Frappato Vino Di Contrada 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy

BB, a.k.a Bomboliere feels like the OG for a contrada-designate frappato in the Vittoria occupied Occhipinti world, a varietal expression from the home front with more experience and acumen to treat all things equal, they being available and worthy of leaning against and leading towards ultimate balance. As here from a fine and rocking 2022, crunchy exterior and chewy interior, a Balsamico crust and mix of fruits captured within. Though the Villages frappato is the most accessible it is this BB that ranks as the most well-rounded and if there is any austerity it won’t cause any psychosocial pain. Yet BB is tannic enough to age, stirs up emotion and is truly representative as a best of all worlds wine, more so than either the FL or PT. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2021, Sicily, Italy

Not that the wine isn’t tight but my goodness how the tension is matched by fine verticality from Rosso with an intensity of volcanic chalkiness so specific to Santo Spirito’s 1870 lava. When vines are pre-phylloxera they have a true connection to the actual eruption and basalt because the lava had barely cooled when the first grapes appeared on the vines. A “no lo so” factor in this nerello mascalese character cools the Rosso so that herbal and stony notes prevail and persist, long after the wine has passed over the palate. A remarkable wine (isn’t it always) and another near perfect vintage. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted May 2025

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2020, Sicily, Italy

Grand and expressive, epically proportioned, factor of a remarkable vineyard brought to life through the coursing of its nerello mascalese. Hard to imagine an Etna Rosso so fine and linear could be considered crushable but this is Barbagalli and its vines more experienced than just about any aboard L’Etna. Crushable as a fleeting feeling but everything is truly in place, all parts inclusive of fruit, minerals, elements and constructions right where they should formulate. The last of the wine is no such thing because the weights, measures and taciturn moments linger for seemingly ever. Wowed and energized by Barbagalli. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted May 2025

Masseria Cuturi Primitivo Di Manduria 2021, Licuturi DOC, Puglia, Italy

A modest primitivo is many ways, especially with respect to the ways in which the world perceives how the grape is expressed and yet vintage is so essential as being the determining factor. In this case less than the hottest, acidity bursting upwards of 6.5 g/L and alcohol pleasant, present and restrained at 14 per cent. Even if it’s actually closer to 14.5 it does not matter because it would be hard to find a more balanced varietal wine like this anywhere in Puglia. The hard work, focus, respect and abiding by nature and place are so apparent and must be recognized. In the face of climate and time of history this is simply brilliant. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Il Puro Casanova Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always “di Volpaia.” Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040. Tasted February 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

One of three Gran Selezione and the first vintage for three UGAs to be singled out, split from one anothem, perform acts from Lamole, Greve and here out of Radda. Aromatic stunner this Radda and the ripest of sangiovese for a UGA where that now happens with more regularity than ever before. Hard to believe the level of luxe character and substantial fruit. That and an exaggeration of Raddese acid riches, stride for stride with the fruit, together intertwined and joined at the hip. As sturdy, vertical and grippy as it is expressive of unlimited generosity, ultimately a full and purposed wine that has it all going on. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2022, Toscana Centrale IGT, Tuscany, Italy

“Flaccianello for us is always the finest expression of Fontodi terroir and sangiovese grown in our territory,” says Giovanni Manetti. Truth and still a certain sense of irony as coming from the President of Chianti Classico consortium. Flaccianello was struck by hail in 2022 and so one third of the crop was lost because the western vineyard Poggio was obliterated on August 16th. The other two (Pecille and La Cappellina) survived and in the end the Pietraforte that runs through still granted the freshness, structure and especially acidity. There is a more immediate floral bloom and perceived balance from 2022, also sneakier tannins than the previous few vintages of Flaccianello. The longevity is a veritable guarantee, for 20-25 years and quite possibly more. Drink 2027-2042. Tasted February 2025

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Filo di Seta 2021, Tuscany, Italy

Il Marroneto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Madonna Delle Grazie 2021, Tuscany, Italy

Cortonesi La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Though released six-plus years after the harvest Tommaso Cortonesi says “this is the first Riserva that I bottled more than one year earlier than the rest.” This because he now prefers that the wine refines one extra year in bottle and not in botti. For him Riserva is not necessarily the “top pick” of the vineyards or vintage but rather a Brunello of a different or ulterior approach. “A matter of style,” he explains, “an example of northerly Montalcino.” Now in bottle two years and emphatically not a powerful Riserva but something cooler, more refined and well, fine. There are wines to speak as sangiovese, Brunello or Montalcino and then there are Riserva that amalgamate all three in equal pronouncement, in concentrated concern, executed with reserve and balance to speak as Riserva. Rich and generous, high level quality and quantity of acidity, no hidden fruit or brilliant disguise. Instead there is transparency, focused intensity, everything up front and personable. Like its maker. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2025

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Domaine De Bellene Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 2023, Bourgogne AOC, France

Aux Chaignots is a newer and pint-sized 0.14 hectare plot of Premier Cru Nuits-Saint-Georges in the northerly Côte d’Or upslope and within a limestone throw over to those in the village of Vosne-Romanée. Makes for the most two-toned, dual-textured Bourgogne of the lot, at one crisp and crunchy and then chewy, from exterior to interior. Reminds somewhat of the formidable 2020 and its striking tannins, both capable of unleashing and crashing their power over our palates with impunity and trenchant intention. Of course this 2023 remains in an immovable state, grippy and suggestive of a hands off approach for a minimum five years post vintage. More would be the suggestion because the fortification is a secure one and there is really no sense trying to break down barriers that do not want to be broken down. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted March 2025

Catena Zapata Birth Of Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Mendoza, Argentina

The back label spins a yarn and a half, of a legend, fantasy and allegory all wrapped up in cultivar classification and grape lineage ampelography. From bees fertilization of cabernet franc to sauvignon blanc, a Cardinal Richelieu reference and farming cabernet sauvignon in Mendoza. All this to set the table for Catena’s new flagship varietal wine with a back story. The grand cuvée comes from a mix of vineyards; Angélica Sur Vineyard, Paraje El Cepillo, San Carlos, Valle de Uco; La Pirámide Vineyard, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. There is 10 percent cabernet franc included, macerated from 18-22 days and then aged in first, second and third use French oak for 18-24 months. A serious and layered construction with the most luxe and abundant ripe fruit meeting best barrels that Mendoza and money can produce, higher in acidity than most, in delivery of qualitative tannic conveyance and many years of slow energy release already set in motion. Impressive to be sure and destined to be devoured by a consumer who seeks out the finest goods of life. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Lorenzo Fede Malbec 2019, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina

Feels like Fede is Lorenzo dedicating this highest end, signature malbec for a family member named Federica and she should feel blessed because this is one seriously concentrated and impressive varietal wine. As punchy, grippy and purposeful as it gets for Agrelo, aged 18 months in only the finest wood available and with a terrific vintage in bottle. Does not sniff nearest the highest Mendoza vineyards but the stuffing and promise is up there with the best and the brightest. Nothing over the top or unmanageable but clearly refined and also quite finessed. Can’t see this changing much for 10 years and could very well live comfortable for five to ten more. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2025 96

Il Poggiolino Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG 1987, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

Current vintage on the market. Yes, that is not a typo. A 27-28 year-old labour of love that from trebbiano and malvasia but in the late 1990s the switch was made for sangiovese as Occhio del Pernice. An elixir so silken and smooth, no rusticity and seemingly untouched by human hands. A Vin Santo as if made by the bees, with apricot, guava, jasmine, lemon, Japanese orange and lavender. Fine, fine spice and just so special. A dream, demure and engaging. On the right side of vivid. One of the finest ever and know that you can drink this meravigliosa dessert wine forever. Drink 2025-2050. Tasted February 2025 98

Pellegrino 1880 Marsala Vergine Riserva Doc Single Barrel Nº 018 2005, Sicily, Italy

Vergine means marsala fortified with soy alcohol and as Riserva (2005) it means more than 20 years of aging. Mainly grillo with (30 percent) catarratto and inzolia, limited production, 2,163 bottles and finished at 19.5 percent alcohol. The sugars developed could imagine honey, brown sugar or maple syrup but they are so much more complicated and therefore unnamed. Also fruit like apricot and pineapple but think moire exotically or better still just admit that something unusual and ethereal is happening. The palate is dry as the desert, the flavours, brown butter nutty, intense and spicy. This is not a dessert wine by any stretch of the imagination but something much more gustatory and ready to receive culinary inspiration. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted May 2025

Good to go!

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Twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025

Dec22

Godello in Vancouver

These past 13 years have offered countless opportunities to taste the coffered excellence of Canadian wine and in turn these Godello pages have produced 12, now 13 sets of recollection, reminiscence and appreciation. Formulating these lists has always been time consuming, the process delicate, the stress they induce troubling and wrought with hours of heedful consideration. The 13 years of tasting and assessing have accounted for more than 15,000 Canadian wines in glasses well-used, replaced and updated, through Zalto tragedies, Riedel and Spiegelau mitigation. The number 25 may appear to be an easy target because that seems like more than sufficient spaces to fill, but every year gets harder and the task weighs increasingly on the taster’s duty to accountability. These twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025 represent a cross section of Canadian merit always edging into brilliance, an annual catalogue never ignored nor glossed over, completed with conscientious thought towards the end goal of celebrating Canada’s best. Ethical and justified, by now a matter of tradition and in this opinion, a cultural imperative.

Godello in the Okanagan Valley

Twenty-five percent of this year’s tableau are sparkling wines, one less than 2024 but still a number that serves to prove the enduring coast-to-coast quality of that sector in Canadian wine. As a reminder, “the math is really quite simple. Cool climate viticulture means longer growing seasons for more developed, therefore riper phenolics matched dutifully by kept acidities. Climates have changed but Canadian growing areas have not yet lost their edge and besides, extreme events are more likely and increasingly the culprit when it comes to extenuating snafu circumstances like crazy cold snaps that take out wide swaths of grapevines. For the most part this country can still hang a wide variety of grapes to create killer sparkling wines. Be immersed in the emerging industry that is Canadian sparkling wine and you will find yourself amazed. Canadian wine regions form coast to coast are not trying to make Champagne, but, the promise grows for producing sparkling wine better than anywhere in the world…with the exception of Champagne.”

NWACs 2025

At the 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada there were 100 medals awarded to sparkling wines. 100! 100 is an insane number of Gold, Silver and Bronze medallions allotted to any category and yet sparkling is in fact so deserving of the hardware. Of those 100 medals, 23 were Gold, 34 Silver and 43 Bronze. The two most expensive wines entered both received Gold recognition and the provincial breakdown at that level was 12 from Ontario, 10 out of British Columbia and one for Nova Scotia. In fact the average price of Gold winning wines is $56.10 which surely says something about two dozen WineAlign judges’ ability to identify the highest Canadian sparkling wines.

The School of Cool July 17, 2025 Edition
(c) Cool Chardonnay

One riesling, one roussanne/marsanne and six chardonnay make up the gaggle of white wines and there is never any wonder why this country’s most successful grape variety always occupies more spots than any other single variety. The 15th International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration took place in July, 2025 and while every annual Niagara chardonnay experience is cool, this above the clouds 2025 edition was something other. Unexpectedly Godello was tasked with steering the educational component as emcee for the Thursday School of Cool at White Oaks Conference Resort and Spa. An honour and indeed a privilege it was, to share a stage with Canadian and international winemakers, winery representatives, distinguished minds and presenters. There was a palpable buzz in the room at this year’s School of Cool and also an uncommon level of expert conviction conferred by the moderators and panelists. The Canadian wine industry has assuredly come of age and chardonnay’s cool weekend was the perfect time to express the explorative, collaborative and measurable maturity of experience. Over those four days from July 17-20, the i4C was the coolest place to be.

Another solid showing for pinot noir although three were chosen as compared to five the previous year, a drop attributed to more cabernet franc and syrah making it into the fray. The rise in franc quality is a by-product of a collective new understanding by winemakers producing pure, unadulterated cabernet franc equipped with a true and clear message to represent a sense of pace. A confident prediction will see the number of franc hitting best of lists rise with increasing regularity, not as a trend but with the notion they are here to stay. The syrah clusterf%*k is another matter because of the winter catastrophe that wiped out most of the Okanagan’s plantings. The three chosen for 2025 are all profound examples and are here because of their excitement inducing factors, not because of empathy or sentimentality. The finale is a remarkable red blend at a steal of a price from a winery that produces bigger red blends at much higher costs, but this one is “real indeed, honest as F and clearly made in good faith.” Far too good to ignore.

Meritage is still a big deal and stylistically speaking, some of the most complex Canadian red blends are the equivalent or coalescence of two famous European attributes, they being the French garrigue and Italian macchia. Still others bring about a mix of merde Française and Italianate animale. In such cases tasters are split between the forces of complexity and flaws. Unwanted microbes are distractions, especially Brettanomyces which is not an accent upon the language of great wine. Canadian wine consumers are fortunate because their makers’ cellars are cleaner (and not nearly as old) as many Euro counterparts and to a winemaker, clean and technically sound wine is this country’s wine religion. Thank goodness for that.

Canadian judges concluded the annual 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada with a resounding roar in thanks to the ever increasing quality this country puts forth year after year. The 2025 edition was once again held in Penticton heading up towards the northerly growing areas in the Okanagan Valley. Evening programs between site visits took place at JoieFarm Winery hosted by BC Winegrowers; Liquidity Winery with Mission Hill, CedarCreek, Martin’s Lane, CheckMate, Red Barn at Jagged Rock and Road 13; Garnet Valley Ranch with the Summerland Bottleneck Drive members. These get togethers take judging wines blind to another level by solidifying their meaning when tasted with the producers who make them.

In nine days 2026 will be upon us and the new year will mark a change in job description with the addition of a new title: National Wine Advisor to Canada’s Great Kitchen Party. Thank you to David Lawrason, on a deeply personal level, for your many years of contribution and all you have done for Kitchen Party and Canadian wine. We have all witnessed the growth, maturity and excellence of the culinary events during which David has been instrumental in bringing the finest Canadian wines to light. “I will never forget how he stood at the Kitchen Party podium some 12 years ago and introduced me as “Canada’s wine wordsmith,” a compliment taken to heart and an encouragement to always be myself. You have been an inspiration, a great friend and colleague. As my true mentor in wine journalism it feels only fitting to take the Kitchen Party baton from you, now proud and honoured to act as this next messenger for Canadian wines and to share their world class quality with Canadians, from Victoria to St. Johns.”

Godello’s annual crème de la crème collection is a matter of messenger passing on a message from all the vintners, winemakers and marketers that bring Canadian wine to the people. So many worthy wines are omitted not because they lack stuffing, honesty or quality. Twenty five is still a very small number representing just two and a half percent of what is tasted each year and so let us give credit to those that are here. These are the twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025.

School of Cool squadra; Josh Horton (Lightfoot & Wolfville), Marty Werner (MW Wines), Ben Minaker (Andrew Peller) and Dr. Jennifer Kelly (CCOVI)

Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut Rosé 2021, Nova Scotia

Organic pinot noir and by now this must be the fifth or sixth leaf for Raven Hill Vineyard fruit situated directly across the road from the winery. The Lightfoot & Wolfville sparkling wine program has matured into one of Canada’s best under the leadership of talented winemaker Josh Horton and vintage Brut Rosé takes a giant leap forward with the 2021 vintage. Beyond balance and now riveted up with a next level transference of fruit gaining in experience aged on really fine lees. The result is increased clarity and a beguiling ride for the senses. An exciting Wolfville bubble, ideal for this holiday season and into the beyond. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted December 2025

With Jonas Newman, Hinterland Winery and The Grange of Prince Edward

Hinterland Blanc De Blancs 2020, VQA Ontario, VQA Prince Edward County

Hard not to couple Les Etoiles and Blanc de Blancs, especially when you taste the two side by each. From that blend of three varieties to here, a solo artist as chardonnay that speaks so succinctly in Jonas Newman’s scintillant of a sparkling wine. It takes a village and a warm vintage to make a B de B with this much polyteleías character, beyond luxe to luxurious and more. The estate-grown chardonnay is aged n 500L five year-old barrels for 10 months ahead of its tirage. Ages in bottle flat on slats for 36 months through to a November 2024 disgorgement. Where fruit meets limestone. The 2020 is quite glorious, thank you very much. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted December 2025

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2018, VQA Short Hills Bench

To invoke an Asteroid City concept, the time is always right to taste Cuvée Catherine, This becasue it’s simply never a sparkling wine we need to see in “the wrong way,” as Kafka once wrote, “to be able to see things the right way.” Many bubbles fall into the category of that conundrum but in Ontario the Speck brothers’ Carte Blanche always gets the art right. It excuses us the need to learn that artifice is the antithesis of affect, if simply because it is a fizz that presents a consistently clear vision of sparkling winemaking as an art form that casts a light, illuminates and enriches. Case in point and again with 2018, perhaps the most decadent of them all, perfectly aligning base wine fruit with secondary fermentation and felicitous acidity towards an elasticity that snaps back on the palate with each sip. If you need to ask did it turn out, the answer will always be, Cuvée Catherine always turns out. One day the H of P boys have got to pour this for the filmmaker because their’s is benchmark cinematic bubble. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2025

Godello and Pender

Tawse Spark David’s Block Blanc De Blancs 2010, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Four months should not make much of a difference when talking about and assessing a sparkling wine spent….180 months on the lees…but time’s a tickin’ and so 120-130 days does change the matter. The soothsaying work of the late great Mr. Pender foresaw this ability to not only hang in, but do so with toughness, grit and impressive grip. The flavours are oxidative and phenolic freight demands our attention. In the end the wine thrives…and survives. Drink 2025-2027. Last tasted November 2025

En triage 12 years and just about as dry as they come for a sparkling chardonnay that then winemaker Paul Pender made the choice to go highest acid (9.8 g/L) and lowest dosage (2 g/L). Fascinating as always to look back at some of the earliest Spark! sparkling wines from the coolest of cool chardonnay. This bottle does however feel every day of its age. Notably mushroom, toasty and autolytic. Interesting and though there is some persistent acidity the freshness for this bottle has gone long in the tooth. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

No this is not an optical illusion but it may be a test. A 2010 Blanc de Blancs is in fact chardonnay by now aged nearly 14 years on the lees and if nothing else the colour of this sparkling wine is virtually impossible. Magic at least and the aromas tell another incredulous story. There is petrol in the aromatic mix, as if this were riesling and so maybe think about Icewine, how even chardonnay can develop these sorts of mineral-gaseous aromas with enough time in bottle. As here with sparkling wine and the most fascinating look at Spark in its many varied iterations. There is a note that reminds of Vermouth and so freshness is not the operative word but complexity surely is. Just a faint bit of Rancio, nutty and distinct, so worth the detour. And priceless. Tasted November 2024

Dean Stoyka and J-L Groux – Stratus Vineyards

Stratus Blanc De Blancs 2017, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Have always found the 100 percent Stratus chardonnay twice fermented as Blanc De Blancs to reside and take a rightful place amongst the most complex in Canada. Generally speaking the wine ages six years on the lees and now eight years post vintage you can add stunning idiosyncratic personality to already guaranteed complexity, because my goodness what magic and fantasy are going on here? What wizardry of physiological conversion from chardonnay to Blanc De Blancs is happening? Scents are savoury to a level that invokes some Mediterranean macchia, phenolics are indicated by a ginger and allied friends spice masala, bitters are of a fine digestive tincture, distilled from compound leaf exotica. Not only unfamiliar but come from a wild mix of South Asian and Southeast Asian aromatics to put this B de B in a sparkling guild of its own. Have never tasted anything like it. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Marty Werner

York Vineyards Reserve Brut, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Mon dieu the tight energy wind is ready to explode – but not quite yet. Pent up like no other Niagara sparkler, on the lake or otherwise, fuelled by emotion and toasty intensity this close to letting loose. Would wait another few months to allow for further lees meets fruit and acid development, pegging and coalescence. The sky is the limit for the Brut NV, top of the bubbling heap for York Vineyards. Drink 2026-2031. Last tasted November 2025

York Vineyards’ Brut is a two-thirds to one-third chardonnay-pinot noir joint that sees 72 months on the lees. A sparkling sensation taking the country and apparently also the world by storm. The attention to detail, focus and determination are credible, felt with palpable energy and there is no doubt as to how much trial, experimentation and consideration went into making this and other York Vineyards wines. The Reserve moniker may at times feel like an add on but here one can imagine the assessment of base wines and the selection being both a stringent and anticipatory one. This is richness off the proverbial Ontario charts with a toasty-autolytic complex character that defies regularity. Toned, defined and appreciable because the flesh is yet to fully develop. Tasted November 2024

Culmina Winery, Oliver

Culmina Riesling Decora Margaret’s Bench Vineyard 2021, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

There is Decora and then there is the high elevation vineyard above the Golden Mile Bench boundary qualification in the South Okanagan. Margaret’s Bench is one of the area’s top riesling sites – Think of it as the Okanagan’s version of carricante growing above the Etna DOC designation, say in Rampante or Guardiola. The levels of extract, tannin and phenolic grip gather to elevate, lift and transmogrify riesling into something other, magical and munificent. Some age has already brought about the savoury honeyed effect, like Hunter Valley sémillon and the aforementioned L’Etna mystery. But this is the Okanagan and riesling gets no more amazing than this. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Geoffrey Moss M.W. – Søren Wines

Søren Results May Vary Roussanne Marsanne 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Can’t imagine Geoffrey Moss M.W.’s choice of wording is in ode to Limp Bizkit’s fourth studio album, though you just never know and with this rather dubious first Rhône-ish Blanc he might say “Gimme the Mic.” Perhaps also “Red Light-Green Light” because along with his first kick at syrah the pair signal the arrival of two important wines onto the Okanagan, British Columbian and Canadian markets. Results May Vary is a joint roussanne-marsanne with a gently swaying mix of optimism, optimally ripe fruit and the sweet support of stride for stride acidity. Dutiful march up the sides of the jawline and across the palate with each green grape providing, integrating and then connecting for equal contributive proportion. Terrific effort for this dual purposed nexus of Rhône varieties done up with distinction as a promise of the Okanagan Valley. Can’t wait to try this again, but also future iterations that will surely evolve towards the profound, one subtle step at a time. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted January 2025

The Long Way Home Chardonnay 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench

The next Beamsville Bench 2023 Long Way Home chardonnay from one time Hidden Bench and South African winemaker Marlize Beyers may just be her deepest metaphorical exploration, of Escarpment longing and the quest for inner varietal peace. Notes of vivid aromatics and metaphors are imagined, whether conventional or unconventional, yet all speak to the long journey. Balance is struck between fruit and barrel, ripeness and elastic tension, all primed and relished this time around. Everyone waits for great chardonnay and when it is found, inner peace becomes the satisfying result. And so if you have ever said “love’s the only thing I’ve ever known,” consider adding chardonnay to the longing and looking past this 2023 would be a missed opportunity. Once again and this time with the writer’s original gravelly bawl, “come with me, together we can take the long way home.” Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

The Senchuks – Leaning Post

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Sharp and pinpointed without equivocation in home base chardonnay of vines further matured into early adulthood. Now in delivery for fineness and a development into true realism in western Niagara chardonnay. In fact place does not get any more west and so we begin to believe that the west is indeed the best. The concept may express a subjective opinion and also convey a preference for a specific geographic region but who can deny what the Senchuks have accomplished with the clay based block behind the winery. The 2022 is in fact a warm chardonnay from a cool climate that shows just the existential where and when history of a wine like this. With depth of flavour, rise and length. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Quails’ Gate Winemaker Kailee Frasch

Quails’ Gate Chardonnay Rosemary’s Block 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

From first nose you just know this is proper chardonnay and without question the one that comes from a pinpointed place. Sapid and tonic-driven chardonnay with wood spice and a whiff of smoulder, slightly higher acetic presence as well. All these things are within reason and the lemony character is really what defines the wine. The aromas are distinct, the flavours compact and the finish elastic. Everything reaches out to be experienced, snaps back, retreats behind the wood and comes back out again. Repeats the process ad infinite though not without a kind of quiet or demure. Grace and charm are evident while tension keeps the energy alive. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

The golden Grimsby Hillside Vineyard child is Frontier Block, with no dis to Red Clay Barn Block, but of the two the weight, clarity, organic purity and morphological flexibility here is second to none. Simple to say but there’s so much more, including an elevated stone-mineral experience come from this GHV stunner, tasting exemplar finale for the Toussaint release played out in 14 chardonnay bars. If there were any wine produced from fruit raised out of this dubious reverse L-shaped vineyard located in the far western section of the Double “L” to make a case for designating a new Niagara sub-appellation – The Frontier Block would be that wine. The stage presence enables and enacts the most positive effect on pleasure and peace of mind. Pour this to only they who will appreciate the nuance, impeccable timing, structure and philanthropy. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted December 2025

Kaylee Barss, Checkmate Winery

Checkmate Chardonnay Capture Buena Vista Vineyard 2023, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

From the by now well famous Buena Vista Vineyard parcel near the US border at Osoyoos in the southern Okanagan. My goodness what restraint and linearity, tight lines and fruit wound around a spindle, winced like laces pulled perfectly tight. Fine and precise, a dare it be said perfect capture of chardonnay fruit from a perfect vintage. Simply, unequivocally and ostensibly wow. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2025

Winemaker Taylor Whelan

Mission Hill Perpetua 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Comes from Dijon planted clones in four blocks at Mission Hill’s Border Vista Vineyard in Osoyoos. Most southerly and warmest location at the border with Washington, one of Canada’s great vineyard sites and capable of delivering the highest quality of chardonnay. As it does from 2022 with perfectly judged reductive element for freshness incarnate urged to fruition by citrus and orchard fruit in the flesh. Last tasted September 2025

Big and fulsome chardonnay with a whole lotta love, Rosie and barrel going on. Steals the show with fruit the AC, barrel the DC, arriving together. Working as soulmates should, integrating, sharing and complimenting on another, words unspoken. Notes of lemon, pencil led and an airiness, rising overhead. Hand in hand and this is what we ask from chardonnay. Want a whole lotta this. Drink 2025-230. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Apāra Winery Gamay Noir 2023, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

The work and dream of Nav & Andreas only began in 2021 when land was acquired and then with 5,700 vines put into the ground the following year. Their wines are made at Rigour & Whimsy Winery in Okanagan Falls. Just 113 (sold out) cases were made of this three-day wild carbonic fermented gamay, 15 days total on skins, aged 6 months in neutral French oak, unfined and unfiltered. Love the spice cupboard on the gamay nose with freshest of fresh red fruit. Crunchy red without trying hard at any moment for the how, what and why it generously delivers in waves across your palate. Simply awesome cru-Beaujolais style. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir Hieroglyph 2020, BC VQA Naramata Ranch

Stony does not begin to describe the nature and character of this phenolic pinot noir. First vintage for a single, south-facing block at the most northern end of the Naramata Bench, bordering Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park. Cliff-perched over the the lake and nutrient-poor soils of fine talcum powder glacial silt. Smallest of parcels for 100 cases from fruit picked on September 29th. Spontaneous fermentation, 80 percent whole cluster, 18 day maceration, 16 months in (25 percent new) French and Austrian wood. Magical conversion rate to 12.8 percent alcohol, impeccable balance between medium-key (5.8 g/L) acidity and (3.66) pH. Serious, structured and my kind of tension. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted June 2025

Closson Chase Pinot Noir South Clos 2023, VQA Prince Edward County

From demure to exuberance, leaving that absolutely fine and elegant 2021 and moving ahead two years into this powerful 2023 pinot noir. Then again the County and South Clos-ness can never be shaken or removed from the equation and frankly this sku is one of Canada’s most balanced varietal wines. Punch and circumstance combine for more power and pop but restraint as the wine’s middle name does keep SC grounded, with thanks to the agriculture meeting Keith Tyers’ acumen, steady in experienced winemaking hands. Some savour with verdant crunch this season, parts that will bolster structure and see this pinot noir age well into the next decade. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2025

Thomas Bachelder and Mary Delaney-Bachelder

Bachelder Pinot Noir Wild West End Wismer Parke Vineyard 2023, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Sure feels like we’ve left coach and now live comfortably in business class aboard the Bachelder pinot noir train. Still in Wismer Parke yet the seats are in the Wild West End, in most vintages a place of untamed territory, but 2023 is not every vintage. The amenability factor now runs about as high as it could possibly fly and while Wismer Parke expresses its sneaky structure at the last possible moment, in the Wild West End it makes itself known from the very beginning. This dichotomy of immediate gratification juxtaposed against age-ability makes this the most fascinating of the 2023s. The music is no longer Bluegrass but now Wild 80s Country where guitars, Cadillacs and hillbilly rule the day. That’s where pinot noir comes in because on this train “it’s the only thing that keeps me hangin’ on.” Drink 2026-2032. Tasted December 2025

Ron Giesbrecht – Wending Home

Wending Home Cabernet Franc Estate Vineyard 2021, VQA Creek Shores

First tasted blind and this second go leaves me duly impressed. This time knowing full well what wine is poured but no change in attitude or assessment – only reinforcement because Wending Home’s 2021 defines the beauty and potential of Niagara cabernet franc. Last tasted August 2025

Fulsome and well-oaked cabernet franc with all the fruits involved, of blacks, reds and especially blues. Very varietal in that respect yet without any sidling kinship to varieties like tempranillo, malbec or petit verdot. This is a seamless expression in which acidity plays a key role to lift, cool down and stretch fruit in the face of skin plus wood tannin. Impressive expression all around. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Winemaker Jonathan McLean, Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Tasting this from a bottle opened yesterday only reinforces the finding for what will go down as one of the finer cabernet francs ever made in Ontario. The cup runneth over with red fruit and varietal intangibles that only these Lincoln Lakeshore vines could have possibly produced. BBH’s 2022 was most certainly made in the vineyard, coaxed along in the cellar by the estate’s and founder Taylor Emerson’s most thoughtful winemaker Jonathan McLean. Last tasted July 2025

Juiciest of the cabernet franc and also one of the more tannic, a.k.a structured expressions. Comes at the palate (especially) in waves and with layers waiting to be peeled away, exposed and experienced. There is everything in this ultra special cabernet franc and it will live a very long time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Grange Of Prince Cabernet Franc Edward Aurelia Series 2023, VQA Prince Edward County

What absolutely killer, beautiful and appropriate volatility in the sweetest and most elastic vein. There are Loire and Ontario cabernet franc and then comes along Aurelius at Prince Edward County’s Grange made by Jonas Newman – and the skies re-open. Feels like a cabernet franc epiphany sent after a storm with order restored post chaos and darkness. The wine’s opening salvo is something understood to be professional and artisanal rolling into the proverbial emergence from risk relatable to reward. Brightness and potential ensues. Near, near absolutely brilliant bottle of cabernet franc. The pinnacle is coming soon. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jesce Baessler – Corcelletes

Corcelettes Syrah 2022, BC VQA Similkameen Valley

Easily the biggest and most structured syrah of the lot, dripping with hematic juices, sanguine and also the greatest ferric presence. Massive waves of fruit and tannin, wood so very much a part of the mix and the style incomparable, save for like-minded efforts and with a nod to the motherland. Smoky bacon and acid structure. The most complete example for aging long term. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Rainmaker Wines Syrah Viognier The Modernist 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

The epitome of (Barbecue) smoked meats as a hunch in syrah, more beef than pork and with all the attributes the variety is bent to display when a place and winemaking conspire to bring purity and reality to the table. Love the meat sweats feeling, the full concentration of fruit and the seriousness of mineral running through. Top notch without any semblance of lean, mean or green character. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Black Hills Winemaker Ryan McKibbon

Black Hills Estate Winery Bona Fide 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Real indeed, honest as F and clearly made in good faith, of 42 percent malbec with carménère and syrah for one of this country’s most determined and yet genuinely restrained red blends. There is no mistaking or missing the purity of the blue meets purple fruit of malbec, nor the righteous use of toasty and sweetly vegetal carmenère. The syrah is the tie that binds, the meaty and juicy rare cut of beef that lends both a mildly smoky but also rich depth of plasma and iodine. You will be forgiven for imagining Chile, Argentina or South Africa, yet you will be rewarded for celebrating the Okanagan Valley-ness of the final effect. That from a complete wine which is silken, virtuous and proper. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2025

Okanagan Valley

Painted Rock Syrah 2022, BC VQA Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley

The 2022 is a bold and patented syrah with trenchant purpose and likely clocking in at a higher alcohol level than the rest of the Painted Rock reds. Just a hair short of 15 percent, wily, woolly, fruit gilded and exotically perfumed to the hilt. Silken and suave but not without a sense of “animale,” as can also be said of some northern Rhône syrah. Drink a glass too fast and you may feel as though you are sporting a hairshirt on the skin as a form of religious penance or self-discipline. The structure is in fact impeccably conceived and constructed, which is to say a few years down the road you will appreciate this wine for how it has moved from green to red. Share it with people who make a difference in your life, put on the seminal pop-transition record by R.E.M. and say to them “feed me banks of light and hang your hairshirt on the lowest rung. It’s a beautiful life.” Drink 2027-2034. Tasted April 2025

Good to go!

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In the cool, cool, cool of the i4C

Aug6

Cool Chardonnay on ice

In the cool cool cool of the evening
Tell ’em I’ll be there
In the cool cool cool of the evening
You better save a chair

The 15th International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration took place just a few weeks ago and while every annual Niagara chardonnay experience is cool, this above the clouds 2025 edition was something other. Unexpectedly Godello was tasked with steering the educational component as emcee for the Thursday School of Cool at White Oaks Conference Resort and Spa. An honour and indeed a privilege it was, to share a stage with Canadian and international winemakers, winery representatives, distinguished minds and presenters. There was a palpable buzz in the room at this year’s School of Cool and also an uncommon level of expert conviction conferred by the moderators and panelists. The Canadian wine industry has assuredly come of age and chardonnay’s cool weekend was the perfect time to express the explorative, collaborative and measurable maturity of experience. Over those four days from July 17-20, the i4C was the coolest place to be.

The School of Cool July 17, 2025 Edition
(c) Cool Chardonnay

Godello is pleased to share his words spoken to the audience that day.

“Good morning, and welcome to Day One of #i4c, the coolest conference in the world. My name is Michael Godel, a wine writer based in Toronto, sometimes in Italy and in my spare time I play both critic and partner at WineAlign. When I was asked to emcee this year’s School of Cool I thought hmmm, compared to those who have previously served this post, what can I contribute? I’m neither as funny or savvy as my colleague John Szabo, not as witty and sharp as Chris Waters, certainly less accomplished than both Magdalena and Suzanne. But I am good at surrounding myself with smart and talented people. I look forward to introducing many of them to you today.

We are thrilled to welcome all of you for the 15th year of the i4C! (Holds up applause sign). Every year winery representatives and people who adore chardonnay from around the world congregate here in the Niagara region to celebrate the variations, intricacies and philosophies behind making cool climate chardonnay. I once asked the question, How can i4c the future through cool chardonnay? Chardonnay is cool, then, and now. Don’t we always seem to foresee 4C a future filled with chardonnay?

This year at i4C we have 43 participating wineries, including 12 internationals from England, France, Tasmania, Argentina and two wineries from each British Columbia and Nova Scotia.

Today, we are meeting on Indigenous lands, over which Indigenous people still hold jurisdiction. In the Niagara Region, where 27 of our participating wineries operate, we are meeting on the shared lands of the Haudenosaunee, Anishinaabeg, Wendat, and Chonnonton nations. A key treaty governing this territory is the “Dish with One Spoon” agreement. This treaty between the Anishinaabe, Mississaugas and Haudenosaunee binds them to share the territory and protect the land. Subsequent Indigenous nations and peoples, settlers, and all newcomers, have been invited into this treaty in the spirit of peace, friendship and respect. We all share the responsibility of ensuring the “Dish” is never empty, meaning that we must take care of the land and the creatures we share it with.

I would like to take a moment to acknowledge and thank our Educational Committee: Scott Wilkins, Rob Power, Elsa MacDonald, Dr. Jennifer Kelly of CCOVI at Brock University, Peter Rod of CCOVI and Niagara College and Trisha Molokach, our esteemed, tireless and incredible Event Director. Twelve years Trisha has poured heart and soul into this event. Thank you.

This weekend is made possible by the contributions of a dedicated group of volunteers who have spent countless hours preparing for this weekend. We have a wonderful team of folks pouring wine for you today, so if you happen to see someone in a colourful I4c t-shirt, make sure you take the opportunity to thank them for their time and efforts. None of this is possible without them.

We would love to see any photos or videos that you take today, so please be sure to tag us. Our Instagram handle and the i4C hashtag are both listed on the bottom of your name tag and on your tasting mat.

At the end of the first session I will get to more specific housekeeping details and we do have a full schedule ahead of us today. There will be three educational sessions and tastings, with coffee breaks and a lunch in between, followed by a walk-around tasting in the afternoon. Please refer to the booklet provided at your seat for more information on timing and session details.

Before I proceed I would like to take a moment to remember a great friend of the i4C. Just a few weeks ago we lost Nicolas Potel, a great winemaker, négoce, father and friend. We miss you Nico and all of us wish you were here. But believe me I can’t think of anyone who would want us to just go out and have a grand time. Nicolas Potel came from Bourgogne for the very first event and his winery Domaine de Bellene was present here at i4C eight times, including last year when his son Alphonse joined us for the weekend. We should all raise a glass of cool chardonnay to the great Nicolas Potel.”

Coolest Chardonnay of The School of Cool (c) Cool Chardonnay

Session One

“Our keynote speaker for this year is Clive Pursehouse. Based in Seattle, Washington, Clive Pursehouse is Decanter’s US Editor and Regional Editor for the Pacific Northwest. He is the creator of the site Northwest Wine Anthem, Culture Editor at Peloton Magazine and the newly minted Fausto Magazine. This I gather makes him an avid cyclist. In fact I’m told he is a fan of Cyclocross, which is a unique, non-Olympic discipline of cycling that can be best described as a cross between road cycling, mountain biking and steeplechase. Wait, there’s more. Cyclocross takes place on technical outdoor courses of grass, dirt, mud, sand or sometimes snow. Snow. Still more – Pursehouse broke his pelvis cycling in the middle east and spent who knows how long in casts and wheelchairs. In other words and though I’ve just met him, not unlike a close friend I have known since nursery school who is an ultra-marathon runner, I would have to say that Clive is clearly nuts. And he’s from Pittsburgh (I like Pittsburgh!) but he does know a lot about wine, including chardonnay, especially those beauties from Washington and Oregon. I would say that his mix of intense exercise, the snow part and wine study make him ultra qualified for this role as our keynote speaker. When our Concierge asked if he had any allergies, Clive replied, “yah, tusk.” Tusk? Well Clive, this walk up song is for you. (Cue Tusk by Fleetwood Mac). Allow me to introduce Clive Pursehouse.”

Pursehouse began by saying “cool” starts with Miles Davis. Then there was Camus. “Cool is aloof. It resides on the fringe.” Finally a description that applies to Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth. “Cool is aspirational – It has an elusive character we find attractive.” Then like André 3000, “wine needs cool voices and cool critics. Cool is coming and it can’t be stopped.” Lastly, The Who because “the kids are alright, meaning it’s time to partner with cool, young voices who will celebrate edginess, low alcohol, fresh fruit and minerality. “The loneliness epidemic is real,” reminded Pursehouse, “and wine can be the healer, can bring people together and make things better.”

Session Two

“Eugene Mlynczyk is national sales manager and fine wine ambassador for Principle Fine Wines, the luxury team within Arterra Wines, Canada. He attended Stanford University in the 1980s, majored in art and earned a Master of Fine Arts degree in Painting from Indiana University. Eugene earned the title of Master of Wine in 2015 and I will always remember a memorable trip spent with him at Mondavi in 2017. Session Two is titled Sparkling Chardonnay – No Occasion Required. Please welcome moderator and Master of Wine Eugene Mlynczyk.”

“The world can’t get enough bubbles and chardonnay is at the heart of the world’s finest sparkling wines.”

Session Three

“Dr. Jennifer Kelly PhD has been a Scientist in Oenology at Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute since May of 2023. I had the pleasure of sitting on the 2024 Experts’ Tasting Panel with Dr. Kelly who brought a much needed scientist’s perspective to assessing Niagara wines in a room with nine winemakers, one sommelier and one journalist. Hanging around Jen certainly helped me to trust the science. I think you will all be intrigued by Jennifer’s approach and moderation for session three called Chardonnay’s Coming of Age – A Retrospective. Please welcome Dr. Kelly.”

School of Cool squadra; Josh Horton (Lightfoot & Wolfville), Marty Werner (MW Wines), Ben Minaker (Andrew Peller) and Dr. Jennifer Kelly (CCOVI)

“This has been a true pleasure for me, to be a part of being a messenger for cool chardonnay. I am grateful for the opportunity. To the i4C committee, Trisha and her unbelievable team, our terrific AV guys and the White Oaks staff. Bravo. Thank you to Clive for leading us into cool territory with a refreshing approach. I loved the image of Kim Gordon but personally Clive I would have chosen Tina Weymouth or Kim Deal – but we can argue that out later. Kudos to our three session moderators, Clive, Eugene and Jennifer. Your time and attention is seriously appreciated. To all our panelists, your insights are what we come for and to learn anew each and every year at the School of Cool. And to all of you for being here, I hope there was something here for everyone and we’d love to see you back next year. Remember, Chardonnay is never too cool for school. Just outside the doors you will find all the chardonnay available at a walk around tasting which is scheduled to last until 6:15 pm. Happy tasting and thank you all for coming and see you again in 2026!”

Godello tasted and has reviewed 80 wines during the four-day conference; At the School of Cool; In the White Oaks media room set up by the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario team led by Andrea Peters; At visits to Cave Spring with Gabriel Demarco and Malivoire with Shiraz Mottiar; An evening at Ravine Vineyard with Jeff Moote of Divergence Wines, Jonas Newman and Marlise Ponzo of The Grange of Prince Edward, Chris Thompson and Stephen Del Degan of Volta Estate Winery and Ron Giesbrecht from Wending Home Estate Vineyards & Winery; Lunch at Black Bank Hill with Taylor Emerson, Jonathan McLean and Meg McGrath; At the evening events held at Friday Night Flights, Niagara District Airport, Niagara-on-the-Lake and at Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting and Dinner at The Riverbend Inn, Niagara-on-the-Lake. Here are the notes.

The Sparkling

Blomidon Brut Réserve NV, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Next year and disgorgement, same five years on lees for Blomidon’s signature sparkling wine and now more depth. Once again time is the impetus (and requiem) to see results, both of which have manifested into a bubble of greater charge than so many peers. Mainly chardonnay from that strip of land running up from the Minas Basin and jutting through the Bay of Fundy. Depth yes and also a low rumble of botanicals that make this a most agreeable sapid sparkling wine from Nova Scotia, like a cool night that follows a warm day. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Put to bottle in 2019 and so five years on lees ain’t nothing to develop complexities, eccentricities and potential variability. This pour comes out of sound and vision, disgorged in March of 2024, set to be released in the early Fall. Makes great use of 2016 and 2017 fruit, plus a small amount of the frost vintage 2018. Youthful, appropriately Blomidon Peninsula/Annapolis Valley tightly wound and in a way very chardonnay, though not glaringly so. “For us this is the future for non-vintage,” explains Simon Rafuse, “and to save the cooler vintages for Blanc de Blancs.” It’s a reverse engineering kind of approach. Simply put, in cooler vintages you can’t push wines through malolactic and so chardonnay is best purposed for sparkling when acids are high and pH levels are low.” Like 2011, but not 2010 and Rafuse adds that “the problem is you have to wait many years to see the results. But it’s worth it because they are really good.” True that. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

The Adam Steps, Niagara Escarpment

Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs NV, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Over the course of tasting the non-vintage Blanc de Blancs over 13 years it is noted how the chardonnay bubbles have evolved yet stayed the course and ultimately improved. From strength to strength with a wine that now bears the stamp and waves the banner for cool climate sparkling wine made with its most essential grape. The team has struck balance for a wine to be used, enjoyed, employed and celebrated all the bloody time. Simply put “ripe fruit and acid structure” said by by winemaker Gabriel Demarco, “putting in accumulated knowledge to recognize a place.” Which by the way includes 50 percent clone 777 chardonnay musqué originally built into the program by OG winemaker Angelo Pavan. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

It matters not whether this Beamsville Bench Blanc de Blancs is p[riced at $24.95 or $32.95 because it still represents the finest Ontario value in chardonnay sparkling wine. Bar none. Why trust your hard-earned, looking to celebrate or drink bubbles on a Tuesday dollars on anything else. Last tasted November 2024. Classic, sharp, intense and ideal. A ripper, “and I love that” says Stephen Gash. Dry as the desert in such a playfully proverbial way. Scintillant extraordinaire. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024 and November 2024

For the first time in quite some time the next look at the Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs is bang on one year later and so yes, freshness is the thing. Crisp and crunchy, stylistically so consistent and really set up to act as the dictionary entry for chardonnay as sparkling wine out of Niagara. It’s just so spot on, high in energy and exacting for style, place and estate. Tasted November 2023

Sees a minimum 30 months on lees ahead of disgorging and this chardonnay was likely sprung in the Spring of 2022 with a good dose of 2019 fruit layered within. In other words a true-blue varietal vintage to espouse the latest virtues and expound upon the great elevator in Niagara Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. Never disappoints and continues to rise, surge ahead, power forward and capture necessary tension. The offset here is more botanical tonic and weight. A new complexity. Tasted November 2022

It seems every three years is the interval for reviewing this arch-classic Ontario sparkling wine but be assured that the time in between actually drinking this fine Niagara wine is a much tighter and repetitive proposition. Terrific balance accorded and afforded from this latest cuvée with equal and opposing trips switched on by yeast and lemon, ginger and tea. Good toasty bubble for any and all toasts, plus innocuous glasses for drinking in between. Tasted October 2020

Angelo Pavan and Cave Spring sure do love to fashion a toasty sparkling chardonnay. Still in the biscuity, flinty and textured Champagne vein though really far from the last B de B tasted back in May 2014. No longer a case of fruit from in and around the 2008 vintage it would have to be the cool as lightning 2011 by my calculations with likely some warm and rich 2012 fruit. The relationship delivers the best of all worlds; tart, bright acidity and linear functionality with creamy, rich orchard and stone fruit, generous and round. All together now. Tasted September 2017

Today a fine misty Blancs, looking very much the coppery, crisp slice of apple it need be. Slate stone tone directive, grapefruit very much in play. A slice of tart key lime pie. Tasted July 2014

From my earlier May 2014 note: The freshest style of the #ONfizz B de B flight. Fruit, escarpment bench stone layering, richesse, biscuits and toast are all in. Acidity meets complexity

From my earlier, December 2012 note: Sees no malolactic fermentation and sits at the top end of dry (12-14 dosage). Most of the fruit is 2008, despite the NV designation. A soda fountain of argon and nitrogen bunsens forth through clean lines and carries an entire cider house orchard of Spartan apple. This one certainly hints at Champagne-like characteristics, of brioche and toast. The apples never relent

Cave Spring CSV Blanc De Blancs Natural Brut 2017, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

The chardonnay scintillant for a toasty style of Blanc de Blancs in pointed appeal. Must be 80-plus months on the lees for this disgorgement and a bubble as fresh as the day it was conceived. Controlled or let’s say restrained excitement, vertical, a sparkling wine of backbone without hitch or bend, taut though generous of flavour. In a terrific place right here and now. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Home (Cave Spring Vineyard) which means old chardonnay vines for Blanc de Blancs with added human experience to set up for top regional excellence. This from the upside down vintage which meant that chardonnay ripening was not the same as it ever was and so come here expecting something different. In fact the 2017 takes a turn for the toasty and excitable, into tart and scintillant territory for B de B of a singular style. Even for the most consistent sparkling wine house of them all but all things being equal this Beamsville Bench bubble creates a new fashion all its own. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024

Divergence Blanc De Blancs Hughes Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Made from a place “of big skies and lots of sunshine,” tells winemaker Jeff Moote and that is why he chose the double “L’ to make his inaugural sparkling wine. The clay-loam-till with a strain of limestone delivers richness for chardonnay and into sparkling wine. Eight months further, seemingly the same disgorgement (October 2024) and a slight exaggeration of the toasty-autolytic notes, but now with more of a soft creamed centre. Orange flavour now coming through, perhaps owing to that CLT terroir. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Small production of less than 600 cases for a 100 percent chardonnay from the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation’s Hughes Vineyard. A whole cluster pressed, cuvée juice only used and the base wine barrel fermented in neutral French wood where it is aged six months on lees. Follows with 42 months en tirage and just two g/L of sugar added. Essentially dry and in the scintillant style for Blanc de Blancs, screaming grape and acidity, accented by dried herbs and orchard fruit. In a serious vein, not what could be described as generous and conversely needing bottle time to settle into its parched and piqued skin. A bit severe and this from a warm vintage. Intensity is all in. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

Dobbin Estate Brut Blanc De Blancs, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

The newest and ambitious chardonnay in the Dobbin project is Blanc de Blancs, Brut in style and non-vintage. Perfumed and chock full of relatively ripe chardonnay flavours, accessible and immediately enjoyable. It should likely be surmised that subsequent releases will have seen longer lees aging time with this shedding the feel of 30-36 months. No doubt strikes an almost perfectly equanimous balance between sugars and acids in the 7-ish g/L range. Not yet developed into the ambient, enigmatic and complex sparkling wine it is detailed and destined to become – yet there is elegance, softness and charm in this (presumably first) issue. Smells, tastes and feels like celebration. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jackson Triggs Niagara Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2018, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

The 14th vintage of this silver medal winner at the 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada and a unique Brut made in an ulterior intensified fruit style. An entourage of a bubble, a word that can translate as “surroundings” and the concentration of chardonnay emotions meeting flavours speaks to a grand place on the Niagara Peninsula. Entourage is half and half chardonnay plus pinot noir with two percent pinot meunier. Tastes like a mouthful of minerals with a dusting of sugar dosage and a shot of botany, a.k.a. tonic at the finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lailey Stonebridge Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

Classically composed and delineated Brut Rosé blessed by top quality fruit, a strawberries in cream softness transposed against a frothy bubble of vitality and airiness. Tons of flavour here, from the red berries through savoury elements inductive of leafy chicory greens and nettles. A beautiful bitterness juxtaposed against reliable dosage, harmonious while still expressive of individual parts. Trusted and effective, on the road to knowledge and future finer results. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A chardonnay purposed grown and cropped then “pinkified” with just two or three percent Lailey zweigelt for what it truly an original look at Niagara sparkling wine. Picked on September 12th and 13th with just a bit left for still wine and perfectly ahead of the September rains. Recently disgorged (after approximately 20 months on lees) and of a season that reminds Ann Sperling of 2006. Very phenolic vintage of high caste character, just not the most intensity and power. Crunchy like the other ’21 Rosés, salty and as mentioned, quite phenolic. Not an autolytic fizz but definitely one that combines precision with pleasure. Just a tweak of tannin at the finish. There are 83 cases made and the wine will be released in a few months. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted April 2023

The team from Maison du Vigneron

La Maison Du Vigneron Crémant Du Jura Marcel Cabelier NV, Jura, France

Truly Jura, no matter whether the chardonnay is made into still or sparkling wine, with the unmistakable earthenware aspect speaking vividly to terroir. This may be non-vintage but there just feels to be a lot of sunshine accumulated into this fruit and so the orchard is well represented in the chardonnay bubble. Lower acidity (at 4.15 g/L) and the creamy palate is as generous as they come. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut 2019, Nova Scotia

Surely more richness from the 2019 Brut and still the cool interpretation of the Annapolis Valley’s maritime climate. You must consider this amazement of success from a place that resides at the furthest edge of viticultural promise. “It’s challenging” says Josh Horton, “and we’re starting to see the odd hot vintage” which this wine somehow expresses. “Chardonnay checks all the boxes for us, acidity, structure, complexity and versatility, not mention walking right through a winter with a polar vortex.” Brut 2019 is fleshier and balanced, ripe and zesty. Yes, angularity can be beautiful. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Chardonnay Musqué Spritz (In Can) 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario (250ml)

Perhaps the first Ontario chardonnay musqué packaged in a can, experimental, light, minimally frothy, also with sweetness and floral. A semi-sparkling wine of arrested fermentation at nine percent alcohol with 40 g/L of residual sugar. Easy drinking, like juice with some alcohol, almost moscato d’Asti stylistically speaking. Candied, of fuzzy peach and ginger for adults only. Fun stuff from winemaker Elisa Mazzi and quenching for what gets you hot. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Bisous Brut 2012, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Tiraged in 2013, of 60 pinot noir and 30 chardonnay for what was at the time just winemaker shiraz mottiar’s third kick at the sparkling can. Fermented in older barrels and aged 10 years on the lees. Oxidative and gingered, full cupboard of exotic spices. Dynamic, pulsating, pretty dynamite experimental bubble. Only 20 bottles made. First release of Bisous was 2016. Make more of this shiraz. That’s an order. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4c, July 2025

Malivoire Bisous Brut NV, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Of 70-ish chardonnay with 30-ish pinot noir disgorged in May 2023 and so think about fruit from 2019 which means a top sparkling vintage because neither fruit nor acidity saw any compromise. Nearly dry with just 2 g/L of dosage, a negligible number that only helps to coax out the natural sweetness in the wine. Quintessential house bubble for anyone who seeks and can see the top value (along with Cave Spring) in a $30-35 traditional method Ontario sparkling wine. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Having recently tasted Bisous just four months ago you might think there would be no change when in fact things have. Tension is now juxtaposed by a truly creamy feel on the palate and so next tasting is next level gained. Bisous is now a perfect foil for tortellini and crispy pancetta with a drizzle of basil infused oil and some aged pecorino. Please. Tasted November 2024

Not simple. Fine and mighty toast, a mix of autolysis and oxidative minutia, full-flavoured and complex, of orchard plus stone fruit and more than just chardonnay. Feels like some pinot noir mixed in and the blend creates a terrific variegate experience. Tasted blind at i4C School of Cool July 2024

Good and simple if also plenty but very simple. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Moillard Prestige Blanc De Blancs 2021, Crémant De Bourgogne AOC, France

Crémant de Bourgogne labeled as Blanc de Blancs, of fruit left to ripen a bit longer than many, in maintenance of acidity though furthest from the racy style. Richness incarnate for chardonnay in sparkling clothing. Nothing searing about this one and truly accessible. Spends 24 months on lees with 6 g/L of dosage. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Ravine Vineyard Brut NV, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

There is a real depth behind this Ravine Brut, packed with flavour and what now feels like deeper concentration than just over a year ago. A huge style, classically blended and true to its roots, but also an extension from what others have done as they came before. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Quiet and demure sparkling wine made from a mix of 60 percent chardonnay and (40) pinot noir for a pretty and soft example. Feels like a relatively short to mid-term time on lees, Considered blanc de noirs despite its lean to the white side and while the custardy lemon-osity sprinkled by white pepper runs high it is the smooth softness that dictates the order of this wine. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Charlotte Hickey and and Suzanne Janke, Stratus Vineyards

Stratus Blanc De Blancs 2016, VQA Niagara-on the Lake, Ontario

Eight months further on lees, now deeper meaning, more complex behaviour and a compounding of the autolytic meets mature flavours in full concentric abound. Quite savoury now, more herbal than botanical and like a scape pesto with cilantro, best with fish, boiled fingerling potato, or grilled flank steak. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Still noting the grip and aromatic compaction due to high level phenolics, a trenchant autolytic intention and a level of seriousness in the realm of Blanc de Blancs. Hides some aspect of chardonnay fruit and also texture but the elemental quotidian is impressive to say the least. Not an elastic B de B, nor is it a scintillant per se but something other, something mature, developed and of the earth. Singular in that regard. Tasted November 2024

Some phenolic grip on this blanc de blancs takes chardonnay into a metallic and distillate place. The base wines involved were likely pressed for success and as such have collectively adjudicated, settled and come to this place. If it seems at present to lack some tension there is clearly function and the shrouding of flavours righteously complex. Notably autolytic and may leave some wondering when the energy will revive. Which it will because the stuffing and cunning will most certainly raise the bar and encourage a realizing of potential. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Vanessa McKean, Adamo Estate

Chardonnay

Adamo Sogno Chardonnay Unoaked Lore Vineyard 2023, VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario

From the 1980s planted Four Mile Creek Lore Vineyard with some chardonnay musqué involved to consistently add a floral muskiness. No wood and now quite the experienced fresh and layered chardonnay in the hands of winemaker Vanessa McKean. A pyramid of activity because of a change by way of employing three ferments and three different yeast strains to see what complex results might result. Lees does the yeoman work without needing to blender pulse the fruit, but just to simply act as catalyst for the transference from vineyard to glass. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at 14C, July 2025

Bachelder Chardonnay Wismer-Foxcroft Parcelle Nord 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Fascinating to get a nose into Wismer-Foxcroft not quite a year but easily eight or nine months later. A Toussaint forward moment for chardonnay still maintaining its touch with the flinty beginnings and the storied act of fleshing out is corroborated today. Late July is a terrific time to re-taste a November Bachelder release of the previous year. This showing drives the point and marks an important moment on the curve. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Does not get more knowable or established for Bench chardonnay than the Foxcroft block in Wismer’s expansive vineyard and who but Thomas Bachelder knows this place as well as anyone. A similar story to Wismer Parke with pinot noir in that this vintage just somehow feels like the culmination of a decade-plus worth of experience. Wismer-Foxcroft 2022 is a truly mature and adult version of its reliable self, seamless, punctual and responsible. Substantial, harmonious and structured. All of the above. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024

Beare Green Winery Chardonnay Clonal Blend 2023, Surrey, England

Taylor Emerson, Black Bank Hill and Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Winery

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Runway 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

A reminder that the name is an homage to service people and the part the property played in the First World War. All the land from here to the lake was an aerodrome and a runway ran right through the field along Sanna Rd. Now showing its lactic-citrus angle without any give or relent to high voltage acid backbone. Come to think of it there is just something Tantalus chardonnay about this ’23 chardonnay in how it rises vertical, controlled within its intensity and built to travel forward. There could very well be four to six years remaining in this singular high wattage way. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Gotta be the first chardonnay out of the gates from the 2023 vintage and if this cracker example is any indication of what’s coming then hold on to your senses. Recently bottled and even with an early (September) pick this saw less than 10 months of aging, but the mix of indelible lees and high voltage (8.5 g/L) total acidity put this in scintillant, dare it be said Blanc de Blancs styled territory. So very different to the Runway White (blend) because of its intensity but also warmth at 13.8 alcohol, not quite torridity, but a white peppery scorch nonetheless. Wild and exciting shift from vintner Taylor Emerson and winemaker Jonathan McLean. Will be hard to wait and anticipate what the next level chardonnay turns out to be. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Warm vintage for Lincoln Lakeshore chardonnay fruit, layers more compressed, aromatics to flavours, resulting in a fullness of mouthfeel quite opposite to 2021 and apposite to the situation. Just the right mathematical problem is written should reduction keeps the freshness and vitality in motion. That said there is warmth and some development, already showing maturity yet time will graciously be kind, at least for a spell and behold a top tier pairing wine is born. Foie Gras with Membrillo and Sherry Vinegar anyone? Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

With Twenty Mile Bench fruit in the rear-view mirror Black Bank begins their estate journey with Lincoln Lakeshore fruit accepting and abiding by barrel aging with a precociousness that belies its youthful experience. This from a less than heat unit cumulate vintage and still the body of this 2021 is fleshy and impressive, its elastic length dutiful in helping fruit, acid and texture all come together as one. Should drink beautifully for a few more years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Classic styling for chardonnay, from a winemaking perspective more so than the viognier and also the reds in the Black Bank portfolio. Neither reductive nor oxidative, reactive nor submissive, obsequious nor domineering. No risks taken, nor aversions neither. Buttery yet with good acids, natural sweetness and also wood spice. Right there in that space between, still a wine for its makers to continue figuring out, in terms of wishes and direction. For now a glass in hand is a good one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Winemaker Jonathan McLean, Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Wingfield 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Top end chardonnay for Black Bank Hill in the Wingfield section of the Wismer Vineyard, riper and of a concentration that celebrates a vintage, especially now that full integration has come about. The stylized and chic feel is fuller than 2018 and more than a shade less than 2019, with no imminent sign of maturity. But these are oranges as compared to apples even though they come from cousin plots within the larger vineyard. And so Wingfield brings everything to the table; concentration, backbone, linearity, energy and acids wrapping it all up in a fine sharp bow. Top tier chardonnay right here for lovers of the Okanagan, Sonoma, Napa and Ontario, not necessarily in that order. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Foxcroft 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

The 2019 Foxcroft has matured faster than the 2018 and now shows some caramel with more obvious vanilla by way of its conceptual French wood styling. Has done its time, run amok, gone lactic, now softened and finishing its run. Drink 2025. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Foxcroft 2018, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Fruit was sourced from Foxcroft within Wismer Vineyard for the first chardonnay made at the time Black Bank Hill was a virtual winery. The wines were made by Adam Lowry at Cloudsley Cellars and knowledge is power in knowing what a seriously good vintage it was for chardonnay. Age able as well with 2018 persistently fresh, piqued, energetic and thriving. Might have been reductive and tight to begin but time has been generous and kind for Foxcroft 2018 to arrive at this ideal moment in time. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Blomidon Reserve Chardonnay 2022, Nova Scotia

Hard to find more chardonnay substance and texture than in Reserve 2022 from winemaker Simon Rafuse at Blomidon. Spiced piques, crunchy apple bites, barrel blanketing and fruit involved at all points for what define the character of this wine. More about flavour than aroma, not out of character for chardonnay but beyond fruit comes sea air and the crushed shells of fossils. There is a Bourgogne feeling gained but not an old school one. Close your eyes and imagine young, modern and inspired from the Motherland. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A chardonnay that shows how in the context of a flight of eight wines just how different Canadian chardonnay will be from one to the next. Which also means from one province through to another. Juicy, orchard juiced fruity and simple, if a fine coolest climate expression from the grape to gift high energy character, belied by easy and accessible drinking. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Catena Chardonnay High Mountain Vines, Sustainable 2023, Valle De Uco, Mendoza, Argentina

A chardonnay of four sites, Agrelo (950m), Villa Bastías (1,120), Gualtallary (1,450) and El Cepillo (1,090). Classic Catena, of respectfully farmed fruit to optimum ripenesses, phenolics included and ease of barrel blanketing to oxygenate and elevate. Partial (60 percent) malolactic because why compromise acidity when you’re making mountain chardonnay? A higher level of affordable chardonnay prepared and meant for all, of fullness in concentration and experience to get things balanced and just right. Another unmitigated success, delivered without surprise. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Catena Chardonnay 2019, Mendoza, Argentina

Well settled, buttery warmth and a nut butter oiliness having entered the arena of delicious and snackable. Drink up although there are two more years available in this state. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

With every passing vintage the solar radiation affecting high altitude vines increases and dramatizes the gainful effect of Argentina’s darling value-priced chardonnay. It has come to this. A wine of great concentration, generous of fruit and equipped with the tightest spiral of complexity and then, unwind. That the winemakers have figured out how to dial in and expound upon an already well figured out scheme is nothing short of outstanding. Do not dismiss this as a regular, easy to knock back $20 white wine. The substance and the fanning out of notes and pleasures is just too much to simplify, no matter the quantity of output. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2021

Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 1995, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Made by Angelo Pavan and we are drinking the last drops of this wine. Picked at 22 Brix in 1995! And yes the wine is showing beautifully. Spiced and piquing with spiciness on the tip of the palate from a chardonnay that was so perfectly oxidative from the beginning with just the right amount of skin contact to see it age remarkably for 30 years. Magic. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Kaylee Barss, Checkmate Winery

Checkmate Chardonnay Fool’s Mate 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Hard to find a fuller, more substantial and all in chardonnay than the Fool’s Mate, but also one with this much finesse, charm and grace. Ridiculously pleasing and dealing in immediate gratification, Checkmate’s 2020 has now settled into its skin to be the kind of wine that literally makes you sigh. So much textural fabric and Okanagan essence from a top-tier focused, sophisticated, considered and flawlessly executed chardonnay. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Cloudsley Cellars Chardonnay Foxcroft Vineyard 2023, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

For 2023 winemaker Matt Smith and proprietor Adam Lowry take their Foxcroft chardonnay to another level. The integration of sharply dressed orchard fruit in barrel clothing is a suave and handsome design, look and feel. This stands upright, expresses varietal linearity and is just about as fit and taut a Foxcroft as there has ever been. Essential Wismer Twenty Mile Bench chardonnay, focused and got so right. Raises the bar and ceiling for estate and vineyard. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Vaudevey Premier Cru 2022, AC Bourgogne, France

Terrifically balanced, harmonious and gracious Chablis for 2022 from Les Vaudevey. A Left Bank beauty with joyous acidity that lifts this Premier Cru up to a place where eager palates will find bliss in chardonnay. Truly a factor of kimmeridgian soil and soul, seamlessly integrated, layered and also elastic in mouthfeel. Spot on with persistent aging potential. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

The word precise is often used to describe Chablis and many other global chardonnays, sometimes gratuitously but here perfectly applies to the Laroche Vaudeyey. Les VdV ’22 is focused to a virtue with its equality, equanimity and equilibrium from start to finish. A lexical entry to figure out the crux and relationship between cru and village. Tasted a second time, July 2024

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Tradition 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

“We’re growing the wine and not really making it in the cellar. It’s really challenging, you have to be proactive and also reactive on a vine by vine basis.” The words of winemaker Kelly Mason. From leaf thinning to green harvest and hopefully at the right time, all within the parameters of vintage variation. “Like being the pit crew and driver at the same time.” From the Lincoln Lakeshore vineyard for a ’23 Tradition leaner than some other years, a linear drive with a platinum gold hue and mineral feel. Less than 20 percent new wood, no stirring, “out to barrel and leave it to sit.” Ever so slightly acetic, well within reason and with a pinch of natural chardonnay sweetness. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Béton 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

A unique Bench chardonnay because the fruit has all been taken from the 2009 planting in the Felseck Vineyard. The younger vines are perfectly suited to this Béton’s raising, as in the label’s meaning which is 10 months in concrete for briny and über fresh chardonnay with its own kind of bite. Also tension with no wood to attract attention from the sharp, pointed and direct display of chardonnay. The middle is creamy, that much is true and the juxtaposition makes for an open invitation to imbibe. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Estate Organic 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Youngest and freshest of Ontario’s 2023 chardonnay aged and then aged further in bottle for what should be this precise release point. Any earlier and it might have played hard to get, any later and freshness would not be this pitch perfect. Assemble a group of wine lovers without extensive cool climate experience or bring this on the road and serve it to consumers beyond these borders for what will be a cool chardonnay teaching moment at a time in history when these wines can turn even the most ardent disbeliever. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2013, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Seduction from the word go, nose to glass and if surprise well this could be forgiven considering this is an 11-plus year-old chardonnay from the Beamsville Bench. Then again in 2013 winemaker Marlize Beyers, Hidden Bench and many Bench wineries were already keenly aware of how to make high quality and also structured chardonnay. This wine has drifted slowly and comfortably into its ripe maturity at an age with beauty and of respect. Special is the understatement. FYI for corks nerds out there the 2013 was bottled under Diam-10. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A best of both worlds Chardonnay; indicative of the giving vintage (in quality, not quantity, prestige, not prosper) and an Estate, house style with some cosmetics to enhance the consequence. Really typifies and explains what a Marlize Beyers Chardonnay is. Elegant, stylish, with perfect skin, tones, understated beauty and the soft vernacular of few yet precise words. The texture and feel of this Chardonnay is downy, lacey and so very understated. You simply can’t take your eyes off its charms and your palate away from its soft feel. A wine of character and poise. Drink 2015-2020. Tasted August 2015

Jennifer Carter, JoieFarm

Joiefarm Chardonnay En Famille Reserve 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

En Famille is the line of signature Joie wines that define, but also distinguish a family’s and team’s fulfillment for everything they’ve accomplished. All in the family celebrates a history and the present, here with chardonnay from a terrific vintage that takes every binate advantage given. Is this not the epitome of a Naramata season, to induce seduction, generosity and philanthropy. Gives and then gives some more, like ripe stone and orchard fruit at peak ripeness, the subtlety of barrel and fineness of acidity. The sweetest kind and thing that could be, natural, at hand to induce consequential pleasure and gratification. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Joiefarm Winery Chardonnay Con Vida Vineyard 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

The pinnacle of En Famille for chardonnay drills deeper into place with Con Vida Vineyard, meaning “alive” or “with life,” a term of endearment to celebrate a piece within the greater good. Winemaker Richard Charnock takes chardonnay to the next level, particularly in amplitude and opulence for the kind of wine no mere mortal could resist, Or deny its succulence and generosity. Thankfully the sweetness and elasticity of acidity extends the character, fortune and play before giving way to warmth, a buttery brioche-ness and fluid forward motion extended well into the lingering minutes of a palate’s perception. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Claystone Terrace 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Claystone for 2022 chardonnay notes reductive character in a restrained and fruit encapsulated manner. Separates itself from Jordan Village through more varietal and place specifics with higher aromatic pitch and pinpointed flavours to make you think and feel the sickle curved nook on a plateau aboard the Twenty Mile Bench. Terrace that is, where clay and decomposed stone are the impetus for chardonnay of an identified speciality, coaxed and brought to life by Bachelder and team. Sharp and focused with the earth of a vintage packing its pockets and fleshing out its fruit. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

If anyone were to ask, what does a chardonnay from Le Clos Jordanne taste like, the answer would be this. This 2022 Claystone is exactly it, a chardonnay of selection from a specific block, a development of fruit hung to optimize aromas, favours and intangibles, a wealth wrought of barrel choices made to accentuate all the fresh meeting mature nuances of Twenty Mile Bench chardonnay. Top stuff at eye level shelf for this sku in the hands of three skilled wine crafters that make Niagara proud. Phillip Brown, Kerri Crawford and the monk himself, Thomas Bachelder. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Chardonnay Ancienne Wild Ferment 2021, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

One nose into Ancienne 2021 and you know the change has come. The first epoch of evolution now paves the way for another, the last one having developed and experienced over the past eight years, now come to full fruition. The new and improved Ancienne will one day beget a decades old chardonnay that truly defines its ancient name, looks to its past and reflects on what has been accomplished. As we will do in kind, to have believed everything was possible and was meant to be. This ’21 owes its DNA to place and previous vintages but there is are new parameters of warmth, richness and ripeness, aspects now present in more vintages than not, no matter the climate extremes and obstacles that are want to diminish quantities. My goodness what great chardonnay is being made on such a consistent basis by a winemaker as present and confident as Josh Horton. The underlay of Fundy spray saltiness in the heart of juiced and zested lemon is an irresistible mix for chardonnay. They who take this wine’s subtleties and potential for granted are missing the point. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Shiraz Mottiar in his home vineyard

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

From Shiraz Mottiar’s home vineyard and the wet vintage, moderately cool and one of those times that fruit dropping and rigorous sorting could and would lead to great chardonnay. That is this, taut and opening slowly, incrementally, in no hurry, nearly yet still not ready to go. Not the open flower yet and will be soon when fleshier times will fill the glass. A newfound yes to 2021. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

“A disaster (yet high volume, up 30 percent) vintage but I’m really happy what came from there,” admits winemaker Elisa Mazzi. No matter the rain and fog because there is flesh and substance in the ’21 from Shiraz Mottiar’s vineyard. Not a fully natural fermentation with some yeasts used but also not a full malolactic fermentation. Stopped halfway, winemaking on numbers instead of taste so to speak. Some wet concrete notes, washed hard cheese rind and surely different for a Malivoire chardonnay, leaner and linear but ready as ever to go out and please. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Pronounced flintiness from 2018, “it’s just vintage,” says Shiraz Mottiar and it lends a Beamsvile-ness to chardonnay, not unlike 2011 but ’18 was warmer. Translates to an added layer of richness with just the right amount of wood felt at this six-plus year stage. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Intensely youthful chardonnay is a scent to behold, especially from a vineyard block picked on the high-low dichotomy of acid and pH then naturally fermented with bunches intact. I wonder if the barrel time was extended slightly because of the promise of 2018 and that may add to the taut nature of this Mottiar. That said there is no lack of freshness or shortage of cool climate bite. After all, this is chardonnay that speaks the vernacular of stoicism, structure and length. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted October 2020

Rebecca Yates-Campbell and Whiney Collins, Advini (Maison Champy and Domaine Laroche)

Maison Champy Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2023, Bourgogne AOC, France

The appellation and terroir must direct a classic movement in chardonnay and Champy ensures its orchestration finds what we are all looking for. That would be lighter, mineral-acid freshness from a large local landholder with more cards than many to mix, match and most importantly adapt. Organics and the essential ideal of sustainability translate into a chardonnay that is truly technically proficient to the edge of perfection. Translates terroir, talking points and acumen into great chardonnay. One of innovation for timelessness. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Organized Crime Chardonnay Limestone Block 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Sharp value chardonnay cut from stone and to deliver top quality varietal goods from a fantastic Beamsville Bench terroir. Crisp as it gets for a 2022 Bench chardonnay, sweetly herbal, crispy and taut yet with no shortage of fluidity and flesh. Distinct and still recognizable for grape and place with wood the pique in spice at the tip and also back end of the palate. Acidity fills the voluminous space between. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Organized Crime Chardonnay Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Higher end and inviting pinpointed cuvée from the cooler and wetter if humid vintage to determine ultra specific chardonnay. In a way surprisingly soft with a cream-centred mid-palate, pH elevated and acidity mild. The truth is this feels and drinks like a “Reserve” style of Ontario chardonnay with no questioning the quality of fruit ripeness, purity and wood. Comes together nicely and still drinks with purpose, though these immediately arriving years will see a waning of freshness. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Rosehall Run JCR Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard 2017, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Were you to say upfront that this was a Prince Edward County chardonnay from 2017 it would not be believed. Still cracker energy and freshness, crispy and crunchy character and blessed County beauty. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

As a follow-up to the warmth and phenolic heights of 2016 you’ll have to imagine a meandering through zig-zagging directions for ’17. Despite the ups, downs and ups again this chardonnay has indeed found its way, charming us with insights and how richness ensues. The surety of this fruit and this composure ensures and enriches the great sleeper County chardonnay that continues to explain the concept of cool climate viticulture done right. It’s not really all that reductive but it is protective and crafted with indefatigable structure in surround of high quality ingredients. Another winner from Dan Sullivan. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted June 2019 and May 2020

Stratus Chardonnay Unfiltered And Bottled With Lees 2023, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The Stratus chardonnay lees program is simply fascinating. Options, possibilities and abilities learned have developed and been banked for hits that keep on coming, but what is most striking about the 2023 unfiltered is how perfectly clean it is. Like you would never know there were significant lees bottled and so here there feels like a return or in a sense a throwback to chardonnay from say 2012. Of a clarity, purity and acceptance of barrel in proper tones and with effortless ease. The agriculture is everything anyway, so to be sure a chardonnay like this will improve and be sure to bless a consumer with the last vintage produced being the best. Which means 2023. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Chardonnay Resolution 2022, Tasmania, Australia

Man does this smell like Tasmanian chardonnay, but what does that mean? Cool, for one thing, taut and tart with a Champagne profile minus the bubble. Also a chardonnay provided with a western rain shadow, a moderating body of water and north-facing sun capture for optimum ripening. Much of the fruit comes from the river that makes a moderating temperature effect horseshoed around the vineyard, that and 15 percent from the coastal vineyard. Like a bite into a strong green apple with satisfying juiciness and acidity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Thirty Bench Chardonnay Small Lot 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

In a ripe and settled place, fruit over acidity and barrel, fresh in its persistence and pulpy by texture. Green apple bite and spice more than many, exaggerated from a cooler vintage for excitability, gastronomy and complexity. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

True to Bench chardonnay sprit and energy, standing upright, demanding to be noticed and in turn we are paying notice. A harvest of demand forces the team to focus and pay extra attention, to do everything possible for greater returns. Picking and sorting strategies finds the best available fruit to create something cool, gelid, succulent and shockingly Chablis like. In fact at 12.6 percent (low) alcohol this acts in a stoic and matter of fact way, without airs and confidently what it needs to be. Will not overwhelm any palate, nor will it takes any breath away. That said it should age longer than first anticipated. Last tasted twice in July 2024, including at at i4C

Small Lot just has to be the owner of the lowest of low alcohol number as it pertains to the Beamsville Bench and at 12.6 percent the conversion rate falls under the categorical auspices of magic. This is not a light chardonnay but it is a lithe, elastic and effusive one. Aromatically demure yet soft and almost caressing, without peppery (and sharp apple) bites or jolting in any way. The palate runs a similar course, gracing with soft and round flavours that are easy and stretched. Lovely and amenable 2021 here from Emma Garner and one to savour slowly, in a calm and tranquil setting. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Trius Showcase Chardonnay Wild Ferment Watching Tree Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Single vineyard, optimum fruit picked right at peak in a warm vintage and just the wild facts before barrel time rounds out the edges and corners. They still point and stand out with reductive style being the impetus for freshness and how this chardonnay will age, journey and thrive. There is a crunchy green apple quality, a flinty moment our two and fine lees as pure as ever. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Volta Estate Winery Chardonnay Unoaked 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

One of three Volta chardonnays, the second being barrel-aged and the third raised in (sandstone) amphora. Fruit comes from Hillier’s Ramirez Family Farm, at one time sourced by Lighthall Vineyards, a fun fact that indirectly forms a connection with new winemaker Chris Thompson who used to work at there. This steely chardonnay is stirred and closely mimics a Chablis perspective, youthful style that is with languid drift, elasticity, freshness and cool finishing spice. Acids are spot on for this ultra correct chardonnay. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Volta Estate Winery Chardonnay Amphora Ramirez Family Vineyard 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

As with the first Volta chardonnay the source is Hillier’s Ramirez Farm but here the aging is done in French (sandstone) amphora-style vessels. A freshness does not merely drift but flies out in a way that rarely happens from these pots (when made with concrete or clay) and so the medium surely creates some sort of revolutionary housing. Purity incarnate and no salve drip or texture melted upon the palate makes this so bloody different. Highlights the fruit and not reduction while micro-oxygenation comes into effect in the neatest way. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Wending Home Chardonnay Estate Vineyards 2021, VQA Creek Shores, Ontario

First tasted 13 months ago and no shock to find this chardonnay right in the heart of its open window. The spice is melting and infiltrating every pore of this wine for pervasive seasoning and flavour. Just delicious at this stage. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Bit of a cool banana smoothie here, extracted and sweet though naturally so with that tropical spectrum feel, especially like pineapple. Chewy for chardonnay and the wood is very much there, finishing with a buttery swath pasted across the palate. A bit heavy handed (though not overdone) in terms of bâtonnage to effect honeycomb and creaminess, however those who like the style will do very well with this example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

With Jonas Newman, The Grange of Prince Edward

Other Whites

Divergence Wines Sauvignon Blanc Creek Road Vineyard 2023, VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario

In the past Jeff Moote sourced his sauvignon blanc from Hughes Vineyard in Beamsville and this is the first from Creek Road near Virgil in the Four Mile Creek sub-zone. The vineyard may be most famous for cabernet franc but this white grape cousin makes for a fine, ripe and complex wine. Saw 20 hours of skin contact, enough to effect colour and texture but not enough to adhere in any unwanted way aboard the palate. There are notes of green fig and yellow peach from what is ostensibly tight, vaguely tannic and corporeally solid white wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at 14C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Sauvignon Blanc Newfield Block 2024, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

From vines planted in 2003 though never really ever made into a dry sauvignon blanc. Now in the hands of winemaker Jonas Newman that changes with a stirred yet no wood version, although Newman feels that could come into play sometime soon. “To make a more complex and sophisticated sauvignon blanc,” but the quality of this feels like there will need to be two. This ’24 is joyous and eye-opening stuff. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Pinot Gris Isabella Block + Northfield Block 2024, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Truly ABG, anything but grigio in dry, salty, crisp and enticing pinot gris. Gris for gris’ sake, solid, purposed and drinking effortlessly. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Gris 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Aromatic for gris with flowers, part fresh and part desiccated. Vaguely turbid with an acetic moment that distract from the purity of intended local pinot gris flavours. A bit troubled by its youthful style and perhaps it will “clean itself” up with a few to more to six months in bottle. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Melon 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Fresh, ultra fruity and light style, decidedly void of long lees aging. Originally conceived and continues to be made for proprietor Martin Malivoire because this melon de bourgogne is exactly what he prefers for oysters. As will you because the 2024 delivers both substance and salinity, key ingredients in the pairing. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Melon De Bourgogne Demo Series 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

The ulterior methodology and stylistic for melon de bourgogne, here aged 22 months on the lees. No we have not walked up from the river to Nantes, but there is some fantasy in that regard. Salty and the feeling of wet concrete, so proper for oysters but frankly an exciting melon on its own. Flinty and still youthful. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jimmy Smith, Beare Green Winery and Wine with Jimmy

The Reds

Beare Green Winery Pinot Noir Pulborough Cool Climate Clone 777 2023, Surrey, England

The Surrey project of Wine with Jimmy (Smith) comes from Pulborough, a tiny village where the fringe of cool climate viticulture is practiced and planted to pinot noir clone 777. Beare Green’s is a natural varietal treat with acetic meanderings and like the chardonnay, leanness is belied by its charm. Yes it is in fact acid tart and sax jazzy while also crunchy and intensely cherry sour. A ton of clash but the prospects and possibilities feel like a high ceilinged future awaits. The intrigue is great with much looking forward to watching this passion project grow. London and the world are calling. “J-a-zee zee, J-a-zed zed, J-a-zed zed, Jimmy Jazz.” Satta Massagana Jimmy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Cave Spring winemaker Gabe Demarco speaking at the Adam Steps

Cave Spring Cabernet Franc CSV Estate Grown 2022, Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Warm vintage, a richness of fruit optimized from highest attention to farming and chosen right there in the field. In June no less because identifying blocks ahead of canopy management is key to drawing up the map for Cave Spring wines. CSV is the varietal meow, also with cabernet franc and while the ’22 carries deeper meaning there is no denying the sheer purity. Wood used generously is the requiem to elevate and extend the grip, spice, texture and potential of this wine. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Juicy, unfettered in terms of exuberance and yet finely restrained as cabernet franc because it pulls no gratuity, nor punches for that matter. Only a kiss of the barrel is felt and the proper herbaceous greens are noted, as they rightly should. Speaks to the Cave Spring Vineyard and the important farming adjustments made over these last few years by Gabe Demarco and team. The fruit is singing because their host vines are well loved. It’s as simple as that. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Cloudsley Cellars Pinot Noir 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Adam Lowy’s Twenty Mile Bench pinot noir really is the mirror into a vintage with its mix of vineyard fruit, lithe transparency and aromatic spicing of a season. That’s the thing – His pinot noir does not go into bottle without proper, correct and frankly spot on salt & pepper seasoning in order to coax out the truth of fruit. Its decisive resource is concentration and depth without unnecessary over-extraction or heft. Would say to drink this early in its tenure and also pour it to those who question the viability and comparability of Ontario pinot noir. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Pinot Noir Aurelia 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Tart with an acetic edginess because of its raw energy and DIY ethic. Red fruit intensity, implosive, dangerous, rebellious and still workable. It is County pinot noir, the punk rock of Ontario’s varietal sound, purposefully shock chord driven and fast. Try to keep up. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

The golden one, Aurelia, from the Latin Aurelius and if you want to delve deeper, the name for Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, Roman emperor from 161 to 180. Even deeper still the character portrayed by Richard Harris in Gladiator. Also the top of the opus pinot noir at The Grange and what a golden one it surely is. Needs to be because it is bloody expensive but just 98 cases were made of a varietal harbinger that gets the full on spa treatment. Double sorted, first in the vineyard, then at the table. Whole cluster fermented, including carbonic for five days and then foot trodden. Ten days of délestage before being pressed off and blended to finish ferment in tank. Ages in the most expensive wood for 10 months, 33 percent new. Burgundy anyone? Yes this is the idea and the result is a pretty good approximation, all the while tended to by that County high life in acidity with a generous amount of volatile compound effect. Yet the fruit and that acidity are in cahoots, sweet, inviting and enlivening. At nearly $75 there is a whole lot of swagger, ambition and confidence but if money were no object I’d happily drink through a few bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted December 2024

Grange Of Prince Edward Cabernet Franc Aurelia Series 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

With Jennifer Carter, JoieFarm

Joiefarm Winery Pinot Noir En Famille 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A treat to taste a signature JoieFarm pinot noir from a most rewarding Okanagan Valley – Naramata Bench vintage, especially under the auspices of the En Famille autograph. A true “farm” wine, emphasizing a connection between Naramata and these varietal wines. The ’22 brings fullness and generosity in a most familial and joyous way. Ripeness is just right there and softness ensues to ensure the highest level of drinkability for always and whenever. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Leaning Post Pinot Noir 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

The NP pinot noir falls into the Leaning Post line wedged somewhere on the line between The Fifty and the single vineyard labels of Senchuk, Hemeris, Lowery and Grimsby Hillside Vineyard. What’s right and charming about 2023 is how it settles into our varietal psyche for a vintage neither as warm or concentred, while returning to varietal basics. This feels like 2009 or 2009, wines ripe and structured enough that in Ilya Senchuk’s hands that are able to please early yet surely age gracefully forward several years. There is purity and potential magic from vintages like this with no exception for one labeled as an LP pinot noir. Less than epic, but they can’t all be and my how good ’23 will be for years to come. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Pinot Noir Ancienne Wild Ferment 2021, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Feels like only yesterday when pinot noir planted, nurtured and made into wine at Lightfoot & Wolfville was born, but here we find this special Annapolis Valley example come upon a decade into its tenure. Things have changed in terms of ripeness, knowledge and experience, but still this is Nova Scotia wine. Unequivocally and beautifully, with tension and this rise of high tonality up high into a Fundy-Minas Basin air. The 2021 still rises but also settles in term of its tannin structure. This says drink away and be keenly aware of how time will dramatically change this pinot noir across all of its character; volatility, emotional well-being and spirit. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Shiraz Mottiar, Malivoire

Malivoire Gamay Small Lot 2023, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Some carbonic from 30 percent whole cluster gamay. Pretty tight, spot on, clean and correct gamay with ample concentration stopped short of density and so no noted chalkiness. Aromatic spice and Villages stylistic captured to represent keen varietal aspiration bred from rooted Escarpment function. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Gamay Le Coeur 2023, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

A hundred percent carbonic from same number whole cluster gamay and if there once was risk involved that anxiety is long gone. The all in number has been a factor since 2017 and one time trepidation is now a gamay that knows exactly what it is from makers who know exactly what they’ve got. Firm and with elastic tension for gamay that reaches out, snaps back and does it again. Repeats its processes on the palate with pulse and meter. Amazing. Last tasted at i4c, July 2025

Punchy for gamay, so very Niagara style, likely Lincoln Lakeshore or the steppes of the Beamsville Bench. Fruit, leafiness and a mild earthiness (as in reduction) together with top level perfume of spring flowers (hibiscus), fresh dill and that induction of reductive aromas. and a Villages emotion that speaks volumes about a general sense of place. Less demanding in terms of tannin and a declension of flavours while not quite as fleshy or full as expected to follow what came at the first. Will this flesh out? Quite likely because it grows and grows on you. Tremendously solid varietal wine – if not so adept at aging. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Malivoire Gamay Courtney 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Courtney releases a year later than Small Lot and Le Coeur because it’s more traditional without any carbonic maceration. Warmer vintage, more depth and peppery quality in a pinot meets syrah sort of way. A unique and mature vineyard brings warmth and depth, the treatment in the cellar meant to add breadth and lengthen what is possible. That it does. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Juicy and effusive gamay, such sweet perfume and candied goodness in that aromatic regard. Leafy and savoury infiltrates within and then a repeat on the palate that speaks to harmony within and also without. Maybe some RS sweetness but it is forgiven because all parts work well and together, Acidity over tannin and that’s perfectly fine. Just a bit sour at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Malivoire Cat On The Bench Gamay 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

Hard not to think comparatively but the musky funk of Cat on a Bench really does imagine Cru Beaujolais, specifically Morgan from a famous producer or two. “We got the funk, we got the funk!” Just one barrel makes 30 cases, first vintage was 2007 and who is the cat? Is it one of three or is it Martin? And which bench, the one next to the barn or The Bench? All adds up to fantasy, to Beaujolais and benches, to the impossibility of herding cats and the uniqueness of gamay from Moira vineyard. In any case this hits the proverbial off the beaten path spot. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

New gamay sku here for Malivoire, one of if not Niagara’s (and Canada’s for that matter) benchmark gamay houses. Martin Malivoire planted vines more than 25 years ago and at the time of bottling it was winemaker (now head of all things Malivoire) Shiraz Mottiar who had been running hither and thither with the varietal program. The iterations included Small Lot, Farmstead, Courtney, Le Coeur, Wismer-Foxcroft, Concrete and Genova. Mottiar has been playing with whole bunches, carbonic maceration, wood, concrete and things we may not fully be privy too. The Cat series includes three $50 chardonnays called Steel, Stave and Skin, while this looks to a new pinnacle for what the team surely saw as the finest estate fruit to date. “Cat on a Bench” may just be the mendicant four-legged feline on a hot tin roof because it’s survival depends on instinct and cunning, its energy nervous, hot, desirous and bothered. In a good way. Yes this is structured gamay, notably firm, sour, crunchy and somehow finds a way to reflect the realities of normal gamay life. And it is $60, surely unprecedented for Canadian gamay. Cru Beaujolais as well. A one off? We shall see. Drink 2024-2027 . Tasted August 2023

Malivoire Pinot Noir Small Lot 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Brightest of the Malivoire pinot noir and a high acid, toned and intensity example with less concentration than the previous 2022. Classic cool climate correctness and standard bearer. Takes what it’s given and stays the varietal to place course. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Noir Mottiar 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Just a small amount of whole cluster, maybe 10 percent because of the variety’s penchant to elevate in volatile acidity. Still a little bit goes a long way and the wine just pops here from 2023. First there were the fiddlings of Shiraz Mottiar and now Elisa Mazzi, two winemakers who have confidently figured out how to master pinot noir from the small Mottiar vineyard. Do not fear “if you”can’t find the conductor who created the whole cluster” in this wine, but trust that their signature is there. As is the fruit and how it expresses this peekaboo of a block on the Beamsville Bench. If Val were pinot noir this would be her song and she would find her way off the train. It’s the theme of humankind and making pinot on the Bench. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Noir Cat On The Bench 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Malivoire’s Cat on the Bench in pinot noir is expressive of a similar whole cluster funk as noted with the Cat on the Bench gamay. Here however it combines with and is elevated in spice, but also increased depth and it all formulates as a serious pinot noir with a wildly invigorating result. COTB is a layered varietal wine that will take years to peel away and figure out what full possibilities await. The vintage is key to constructing and ultimately resolving the pressing and evolving questions. Hard to make a final decision on just how important the 2022 really is because tasting bottles along the way will surely re-write the script. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Cabernet Franc 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Crispy, crunchy and chalky cabernet franc, deep and sonorous, herbal with herbaceous piques, edgy and structured. Will still take a few years to figure itself out, push the fruit to the fore and find its core of balance. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Very different vintage to the light and stretched ’21, now fleshier and fulsome, 18 months total wood time, the last eight of which were in older barrel. From a vineyard in the valley below Ball’s Falls, this being Cascade adjacent to the Wismer cabernet franc block. Classic varietal expression, truly classic, tasting like and from limestone, impressively forward enough considering it was bottled just two weeks ago. Crunchy currants and red pepper, tart and tannins still a bit austere. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Rosehall Run Pinot Noir JCR Rosehall Vineyard 2022, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Sweet floral aromatics for Rosehall’s JCR 2022, a pinot noir that scents like an open book after a warm season. The dictionary entry for effusive, a Prince Edward County welcome, of “approval in an unrestrained or heartfelt manner.” A far as pinot noir in JCR steading goes there is a drinkability factor quickly underscored and yet a few more sips come to regard a stealth and sneaky structure under the underscore. This is the way of a Rosehall Run drug, especially in pinot noir, waging war within itself and at times struggling to make itself understood. Like an ocean of pinot personality beneath the waves and remember, “it always gets so hard to see, right before the moon.” Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Estate Pinot Noir 2023, Tasmania, Australia

Tamar Ridge’s Devil’s Corner is Tasmanian branding for four equal parts salty, sapid, sweet and sour pinot noir. In other words a four-poster balanced cuvée of vineyards’ fruit that draws lines to four corners within an a varietal enclosure and repeats the process ad infinitum. Stage presence and a profound personality stood up to be recognized, investigated and counted. Firm, grippy and impressive. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tawse Pinot Noir Cherry Avenue 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

No shock to experience a young Cherry Ave pinot noir in a state of rigid and closed control because it defines restraint for the Twenty Mile Bench. Quiet and diffident though we do detect a half wink and wry smile as it teases aromatics if obtusely giving little of its charm away. Noting the classic red crayon and concrete stiffness, breathing diaphragmatically, fuller and longer of inhalation and exhalation, costal speaking. This means low and slow evolution, a few years yet before things begin to open up and a long life ahead. The child of a wet and often cool vintage, showing as it should, made in a style that expresses vintage and place with distinction. Even if these things are not yet known. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Thirty Bench Gamay Noir Wild Cask 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Only 51 cases were made of this ultra unique Bench gamay noir which will appear as the lightest and leanest of them all. Do not be fooled by colour because there is varietal concentration, intensity, structural integrity and pent up power in Emma Garner’s wine. Not exactly puff up the chest and egocentric, but rather capability, probability, possibility and promise. Balanced, sweetly volatile and singular with wood spice and a white pepperiness that is unlike the rest. Should hazard a guess the kids will love this and in these times can afford it too. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Chris Thompson and Stephen del Degan, Volta Estate

Volta Estate Winery Pinot Noir Knotty Vines Vineyard 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Welcome to the future. The Del Degan family are a new County player standing up to immediately be noticed and reckoned with. Just a short time ahead will be filled with elevated Prince Edward County importance to include Rosehall’s Volta Estate Wines under the guidance of winemaker Chris Thompson. Hard to fathom how quickly a wine like this 2023 rises to prominence for the region but here it is in all its ripeness and crucial balanced glory. A more precocious and richer start from the corner of Greer and 33 where 18-24 inches of topsoil separate 12 year-old plantings from solid limestone bedrock. This is simply a remarkable, yet surely well-reasoned and calculated beginning. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Good to go!

godello

Cool Chardonnay on ice

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Report and reviews from the 2025 Chianti Classico Collection

Apr4

At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Warm days have awoken the vines in Tuscany, the defiant 2025 Ontario winter has been reluctant to end, Spring has not sprung and 45 days have past since the 32nd edition of the Chianti Classico Collection came to another decisive and triumphant conclusion. Sustainability was the central theme in 2025 with talk of a new commitment by producers in their move towards a “sustainable future and respect for the region.” As always sangiovese remained the star for two-days of intensive tasting and continuing education studies with never enough thanks afforded to the organization of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and execution of the Tuscan sommeliers. The most recent vintages showed off their prowess to a macroscale contingent of fully attentive international journalists seated at the Stazione Leopolda tasting tables for two immersive days. Between 2016 and 2024 recurrent hyperbole has been expressed on these Godello pages about the consistent forward strides made by Chianti Classico producers and still their passion and ethic persists. Chianti Classico wines have never acceded the level they are at right now, reputation is at an all-time high and the peak is far from reached. Should you either be blind to the obvious or just beginning to realize the importance of the Gallo Nero, fear not because the best is yet to come.

Godello tasting at The Chianti Classico Collection 2025

Hai le fette di salame sugli occhi

A short note from Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico President Giovanni Manetti on US tarrfis: “We are particularly concerned about the repercussions that the 20% tariff imposed on imports could have on the export of our wines, and we must have faith that the choice made by the Trump Administration will be addressed as soon as possible by our Italian and European leaders. Us producers will now have to work together to shoulder the heavy economic burden that will result from the imposition of these tariffs on the U.S. market. We will continue on, though, strong in our conviction that the American consumers who have always loved and enjoyed Chianti Classico will remain loyal to our quality wines, the Black Rooster, and to our unique region that’s present in each of our bottles.”

Chianti Classico Collection 2025

What to expect from 2024 Chianti Classico?

Near the end of 2024 Godello speculated on the quality of the 2024 vintage, but also how it may resemble some blasts from the past. “The summer of ’24 was typically hot and dry but all that changed after September 7th because in some parts of the region nearly 400 ml of rain fell over the following seven weeks. Unprecedented amounts of water, well at least if you look back at the previous 30 years. August of 1995 saw rain like that and previous to that there was plenty of precipitation and cool harvest temperatures in 1991 and 1993. Fast forward again to 2024 and the the constant deluge of mid-September through to late October ends up becoming the cruelest stretch. Days on end when tractors are unable to enter the vineyards, harvest crews repeatedly pause on stand by because picking wet grapes is a cardinal sin and prayers are made for two straight days of sunshine to happen anytime and anywhere. From Greve to Castellina, San Donato in Poggio to Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli to Gaiole, San Casciano to Radda, in Montefioralle, Panzano and Lamole. Bunches are dropped because tight sangiovese clusters encourage the development of mold from within and the waiting game is excruciating for many. Patience is the greatest virtue and yet sugars are developing slowly, like the old days, piano-piano, as they like to say. In the end a classic vintage in the ways of days of old is declared, with phenolic ripeness achieved because of the longest hang-time since 1993, the same year Juventus’ Roberto Baggio scores five goals in seven international matches for Italy. Drinkable sangiovese, elegant, ripe, low alcohol and a good number blessed with sneaky structure. Producers are pleased with the freshness and ethereal beauty. The tank samples are bloody delicious. Pure sangiovese. Retro Chianti Classico.”

“First and foremost on so many producers minds are the alcohol levels topping out at 13.5 percent. If you see 14.0 abv on a bottle in 2026 or beyond you can bet the actual number is just above that 13.5 Mason-Dixon line and in some cases 13.5 could in actuality be just a shade above 13.0. Lighter wines as a general rule, but age-worthy because of phenolic ripeness, at least in cases where producers waited, waited some more and picked as late as possible. Expect to see straight through the transparent hues of Chianti Classico sangiovese for 2024, to sense, taste and feel the brightest and potentially sweetest acidities, then finally the silkiest if also most elastic tannins. The 2024 acids will be the catalyst for aging these sangiovese. Anyone under the age of 50 will have likely never experienced a Chianti Classico vintage like 2024 and potentially never will again.”

With Michaela Morris at Stazione Leopolda, Chianti Classico Collection 2025

A reminder that any Chianti Classico anteprime report on the Florence Collection must make clear that it is always a multi-vintage presentation. Also incumbent on a journalist is to express the importance of understanding the Annata in terms of what kinds of wines will come from a same vintage Riserva and Gran Selezione. The three appellative wines are intrinsically connected and so the Annata will foreshadow the future. There are producers who choose to present their just bottled Annata each February, if only because they qualify for what can be released under Consorzio rules, which in this case means the 2023s and this year unfinished tank samples account for 35 percent of that season’s total. The bulk (meaning nearly three out of every four) Annata made available to taste are from 2022, 2021 and 2020. The assessment of the campione is more of a trial and error exercise because hit or miss raw samples are so often challenging to get a read on. For the 2025 Collection it is safe to say that the 2022 Annata are to be considered as the current vintage. They are a powerful lot and though lower in quantity, they arrive in stark contrast to 2021s of truly exceptional quality. The 2022s are stringently stubborn, requiring time and several producers choose to keep their wines behind, to give these next releases a few more months in the bottle.

The 2025 Collection also marked the 50th Anniversary of the Chianti Classico DOP Olive Oil Consorzio and included a record number of Black Rooster exhibitors. There were 2018 wineries presenting 790 labels to the press, industry professionals and general public. In addition to the Collection presentation in Firenze, this most recent trip also included visits made with producers within the territory. As a follow-up, a second report will publish next week to include the wines tasted at those estates. There were 544 wines available at the sommelier-assisted tables and the following are 185 reviews covering all 11 UGAs for the three appellative levels of Chianti Classico DOCG tasted over two consecutive days in the Stazione Leopolda at the February 2025 Chianti Classico Collection.

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Juicy as they come and while a sample it is simply too early to fully assess the full extent known of this very forthright Rubiolo 2023. A pure sangiovese of high fruit content red and juicy, open and generous, nearly ready to express itself. Another six months and this could not only be bottled but rearing to please. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Nessuna Unità

Campione: Really full and substantial sangiovese if like many 2023 barrel samples there is a tightness about its aromatics. Not close fisted like other vintages but also not completely open or generous either. Tannins are a bit grippy and their muscular pipes must come down from the mountain and relax before any sort of joy can be found. And it will. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Istine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Levigne 2021, Nessuna Unità

LeVigne, Riserva from the Istine vines in Radda plus Gaiole to create Angela Fronti’s full scale selection. LeVigne and the reason why these vineyards all need to be the best they can be, to justify a Riserva label, especially now that each of the three are giving fruit to produce Gran Selezione. No severe loss for Riserva although it may take a few years for allocations to truly be figured out so that this wine will continue to stay at peak. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

After experimenting for a few years this is Angela Front’s first use of whole bunches intero, approximately 20 percent in the mix, to wildly aromatic acclaim. Seriously, for better, worse or best, of a floral intensity now announced, with immediacy and the flavours burst, pop and finally explode upon the palate. Wholly complex notions and diversions that take you, here, there and everywhere. Dios mio Batman! Fronti has mixed in different percentages of whole bunch, 10 at first, 50 in the fermentative middle and 40 at another to arrive at the average of 20 and the final result is something extraordinary. You simply can’t look or turn away. The energy is palpable and infectious. Drama! Emozione. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castellina

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Juicy, soft, amenable, drinkable to each and every degree. That is the point and the exclamation. Just the faintest hint of grainy texture and vanillin by wood that will integrate with six more months in bottle. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2022, Castellina

Big bones and a wave of exotic perfume defining the vintage and for Castellina. I mean it’s Gran Selezione and so 2022 is really young. Feels like the wine is still refining while it stiff arms your palate to ward off the tackle and so surely too early to be tasting. Speaks to the idea of a window opening before a some other number UGA ‘22s but the time is far from nigh. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Buondonno Chianti Classico DOCG Podere Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2023, Castellina

Warm and inviting aromatic condition with this high elevation part of Castellina’s eastern ridge effecting a combination of sweet volatility and cool factor. A curious and potentially profound juxtaposition provided time chooses to sooth the grip and force that exists in the earliest stages of this wine. Just sangiovese and meaningful, raw and powerful, boozy to a degree but know that this place makes this kind of Chianti Classico. Return two years from now for the opening salvo. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Casavecchia Alla Piazza 2022, Castellina

Big and bountiful, rich and powerful while always just restrained enough to feel the natural beauty in the face of fruit meeting alcohol brawn. The place determines the result and 2022 could do nothing but make a big Buondonno as Riserva. A wow factor mélange of fruit and fine-grained tannin looking for the catalyst of acidity to control this manifest destiny. Two years rest will secure the result. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The beautiful family of Marta Buondonno

Capraia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Wood off the top with a blush of make-up in vanilla, lavender and almond paste. Coats the palate with a salve and while the hope could be for a soft and creamy sangiovese – the wine does not come to that. Drying and chalky but in a liquid grainy way. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capraia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Effe 55 2021, Castellina

Spices all over the nose, baking and those that define the stews and braises of Toscana. A truly woody Gran Selezione, grabbing our attention, letting us know it’s there for the taking. Tannins do dry out at the finish but do not wait because the fruit will not improve or get any younger. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A most pure and surely glycerol sangiovese with (five percent) canaiolo as soft and creamy as they come from Castellina, or anywhere in the territory. Generous and amenable, a veritable mouthful of fruit and wood softened and melted into the fabric of the wine. Very modern, plush and easy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Paronza 2019, Castellina

Paronza 2019 has bided time and allowed itself to mature into an adult version of Gran Selezione. Now mature and settled, caramelizing into secondary character and showing like a sangiovese having entered its postmodern age. Chewy, of liquorice and dried persimmon, its acidity expressed in the reduced Balsamico way. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Unique example with aromatics unlike any other but for now they are mostly caused by the stay in wood. Vanilla yes but also what feels like the effects of American oak. Coconut like Rioja mixed with Napa Valley but sangiovese is rendered “different” because, well sangiovese. Needs two years to come fully together and will outlive many, darkening and thickening as it matures. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted October 2024

Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

A grand mix of aromas, in part from the surround of forest and the other a vineyard exposition at elevation and open to the elements. A lightning strike of sangiovese as bright and intense as any you will find in the whole of the territory but that is the crux of this Castellina situation. Intensity thy name is Castagnoli. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Great example of juiciness and acidity in the face of a dry, concentrated and hydric-stressed vintage. Alternatively crispy but there is some reserve-style, reductively backward actionability and yet conversely also forgiving character. Tart and expressive with two years needed to integrate and complete this picture. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2024

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Well made, drink early sangiovese with acidity in tow behind fruit though just sapid enough with thanks to (five percent) mitigating canaiolo. A thoughtful and well judged Annata with 2023 bones and flesh for open season Chianti Classico hunting. Get at Castellare now because it offers more than most without the necessary requiem for aging. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Castellina

Solid construct in Riserva form from Castellare, rich and fulsome, dark fruited, red-faced and fine. Elegant sangiovese, so well thought about and crafted, spicy, spiced and open. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

High tonality, brightness and also lightness of red, red fruit though this sample of the 2021 Castellina Gran Selezione houses some Brettanomyces. Sweet fruit and acidity though tannins are somewhat hard as a result. Hoping for some relief after time brings all the elements together. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

This Gran Selezione is in fact 2021, shown here as an anteprima because the rules allow (after January 1st), but it surely won’t be released on the market anytime soon. The hold on the fruit is serious and the wine is still ground into a masala paste without having rehydrated, settled and showing what it should become. Nevertheless there is plenty of substance and tonic weight to rely on for a Gran Selezione that shall provide, like 2016, but also with modern timing in pocket. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted February 2024

Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Fine liquid elixir of sangiovese without adornment or distraction in this pure example of Castellina Chianti Classico. Simple and so bloody effective for what the Annata needs to express and how they should attract a willing audience. Drink without any care in the world. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cecchi Chianti Classico DOCG Storia Di Famiglia 2022, Castellina

The story of a family – this to explain the reasons behind a Chianti Classico Annata of accumulation, of the years and a season. Warm and peach fuzzy, red cherry stylish with a hint of citrus pit bitters and acidity as cracker sharp as ever. A touch lactic and therefore tang is the operative word. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, reductive, a swirl of glycerol syrupy red fruits held in a tight acid embrace. This will be rich and also emulsified sangiovese made doubly thick and ready to impress one or two years from now. Take note and be ready. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2024

Cecchi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Valore Di Famiglia 2021, Castellina

Taut and still somewhat reductive Gran Selezione from Castellina, not yet ready to calm, settle and release. A red fruit profile quite intense and acidity doing much the same. Needs to chill, relax and integrate, melt in its upfront barrel and come away with a new attitude, in new light. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Still working through its motions and machinations, this for a sangiovese from Castellina that fits the vintage profile, of fruit darker than almost any since 2016. Quite tannic, still a bit grainy and the impressive stature by structure is in charge. Big for Pomona, likely higher in alcohol than many, not a throwback by any stretch and drying at the finish. Give this time, plenty of precious time and look to better days ahead . Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Gallule 2021, Castellina

Riserva may be on its own but it already reveals much about itself. The separate entity that is Gran Selezione (from Castellina, not Panzano) does the opposite with wood so very much upfront and a tannic touch weighing down as freight below. As full a wine as Gagliole will make, however the barrel holds all the current cards. Comes away creamy and there needs to be some integration to get where it wants to go. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

There has never been a Lornano Chianti Classico with more upfront dark fruit and manageable structure as this out of the 2022 vintage. Nothing previous has acted so open and generous as this Annata, nor have we not had to wait for so short a time for grip and tannin to subside. Perhaps they were never fully there? Well no, the wine shows the stuffing of a warm and fulfilling year but there are few from Castellina that act this way. What sorcery is this pray tell? So curious and frankly also delicious. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La squadra – Casale Dello Sparviero

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Sangiovese with five percent colorino and canaiolo first produced in 2014 now with the image of Siena’s skyline on the label. Soils are clay with some limestone and for Giacomo “the 2022 is better in the mouth.” Aged in a mix of Tuscan, Slovenian and French oak, “essential for aromatic complexity.” Now just in bottle for a bit more than a month, expressive of fruit in a broad way and the tannins are present in two parts, of softness and then in fine grains. Nardi picks on skin and alcohol – not on the pips. He insists they don’t necessarily have to be crunchy and brown. Surely a reaction to climate change and because he wants to make a wine of drinkability. Makes sense in Castellina and yes, there is more than ample ripeness in his 2022. Well done, Giacomo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Del Pino 2021, Castellina

The first vintage was 2016, the following vintage was so hot and dry but Nardi did the yeoman work and made a truly drinkable wine. The 2021 is blessed of the good if basic red fruit vintage, here with more polish and refinement as compared to the Annata. You can feel the passion and the piety in this work. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Piemaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Le Fioraie 2020, Castellina

Campione: A 2020 and still not bottled which can only be for two reasons. Either the wine has been a serious challenge to clean up or the tannic structure is so formidable as to be the requiem for further time. In any case there is some noted volatility but no major faults or issues with sweet fruit, equal acidity and yes the backbone of the wine is sangiovese serious. Upright, vertical and the tannic profile demanding. Needs more time. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione: Tight, peppery but only slightly reductive and quite fresh. Breathable and no oxidative moments as with so many samples taken from cask. Still the wine is far from shwoing any semblance of openness or readiness. Tasted February 2024

Querceto Di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG l’Aura 2023, Castellina

Herbal entry, a pesto of sweet greens swirled into tomato and tart fruits for another unique 2023 when many others feel cut from a similar cloth. In any case the unction runs deep and the flavours too, the acidity keeps pace and the structure is solid, if not the kind that measures quite the same. Adds up to a promising mid-term Annata. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

Unsurprising as a 2023 already bottled and ready for the market. Prèt a porter, fruit set up to talk the Maciè talk without hesitation and for all to take in right here, right now. Acids are soft and sweet, tannins never there. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Tenuta Le Maciè Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Sergioveto 2022, Castellina

Indubitably Famiglia Zingarelli as a Riserva and for that matter any or all of their sangiovese. A mix of ripest fruit available at Le Maciè put to great barrel for thickening effect. This is the sort of Riserva you can chew on, swirling around the palate with creamy, red berry goodness. There are no holes or moments taken off, just a seamless and consistent wine from start to finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Sergio Zingarelli 2021, Castellina

Really quite amazed at how approachable the Sergio Zingarelli Gran Selezione 2021 is acting this early in its tenure. A great vintage no doubt and yet not necessarily a sangiovese with it’s back against the wall, nor is there any reason to fear it’s tannic presence. No, fruit is king, generous and beautiful. A fine and fortuitous example that leads with its best foot forward, open and likely to stay this way for a few years. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Visibly luminescent, highly aromatic and distinctly seasoned for 2022 Chianti Classico Annata. Crisp and vocal, crunchy and liquid chalky, squared at its corners, yet not far away from softening, rounding and curving those edges. Tannins are still firm and in command. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arch classic Bibbiano for Annata, fresh, impeccably clean and open, more so than most 2022s. No reduction, oxidation or volatility but a pleat of substance and noble power. The acids of ’22 improve upon ’17 and ’18, tannins follow suit and all is known to be on the right track. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2024

Tenute di Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigne Del Montornello 2021, Castellina

Montornello shows its stripes and flavours, wearing its emotions on the sleeves of its structure with all the vineyard notions in tow. Magnificent array of colours, aromas and flavours, in reds, blacks and blues, never relenting, welling up from a well of mineral and elemental happenstance. Big vintage for this Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Tenuta Di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castellina

Youthful and yet reductive, lightly white peppery infiltrate through the red rose floral bouquet. Syrupy in mouthfeel with high level tang and a fullness welling for the palate and low down at the finish. Lots of glycerin and a slight paste feel at the finish. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG Cosimo Bojola 2022, Castellina

The work of next generation winemaker Cosimo Bojola and his natural of natural procurements, the firsts from ’21 and ’20 with their classic earthy funk – but no more, The clean and crisp clarity out of 2022 is a cause for sense of wonder and the precocious abilities of said maker are in plain view. Fruit is securely ripe, tannins are severely restrained and the orange citrus acidity does the rest. The risk has clawed back to a safer space which sterilizes the wine just a touch. The best is still to come and yet with 2022 you have to give credit because it’s due. Bravo Cosimo. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castellina

In bottle from 2023 and so not a sample but for a maker who picks relatively late (often well into October) the time spent before bottling is less than many. And so come expecting some awkward moments, even from the beginning because the wine has just not settled and transformed into what it will be. Not for a moment and many will be confounded if tasted this early. Revisit in eight months time. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tregole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castellina

The world of Tregole comes to the Gran Selezione appellation with late harvested fruit for it to translate as a fuller and more concentrated wine. More tannic freight then Annata and Riserva combined, now weighing in with trenchant and layered intention. Needing time to settle and find its way, this 2021 from Sophie Conte is some kind of unexpected tour de force. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castellina

A Castellina Annata always held back and aged longer than most, at least one year and released as much as two later than the current 2023s coming to market. With thanks because my goodness the tannic profile is a tight and immovable one. Getting there slowly, nearly in stride and the wine should offer its height of pleasure by this time next year. For now there should be a lean cut of beef on the grill, a baseball top sirloin if you will, rested and sliced rare alongside. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Reductive and über primary with a sweet volatility in charge of the aromas. So very much in the house style where fruit is large and structure larger. There is no reason to expect the world and pass early judgement because there is little to see here in terms of a finished wine. Time needs to pass before it finds its way. Tasted twice at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Montaperto 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Mineral, material, meaningful and of a clarity that Dofana does not show nor declare in 2020. Montaperto is clean living, sharp and focused Gran Selezione. Ripeness secured, acidity rising and tannins seething like a slow-simmered sauce, never rushed and developing complexities. A fine GS that shows the way for this Castelnuovo Berardenga terroir though still needing a few years to realize its potential. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

To taste a Castell’In Villa this early seems unusual to say the least and maybe even wrong. These are some of Chianti Classico’s longest lived wines, even at the Annata level and yet…and yet there is joy, light and promise right from the start. Hard to believe but here we are in the modern world and the house rolls with the changes – with no compromise to structure. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Well settled and comfortable within its Riserva Skin, softening and yet acidity persists at every turn. The driver is just that, sweet and salty, lightly caramelizing the deep red fruit into a state of its maturing accord. Feels like sangiovese from a warm southerly Chianti Classico location surrounded by all the macchia brush and herbs that a forest will provide. The development here tells us this will not be the longest aging Riservas from this estate. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

A clear reflection of the house style and the coolest, smoothest and silkiest iteration of Castelnuovo Beradenga. Elevation helps, as does riposte fruit caught at ideal maturity, but also the hands of knowledge, calm demeanour and experience. Bossi’s is such a well-judged, layered and syncopated sangiovese, Bio and proper, come to the world with great effect. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Bossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Bossi’s 2021 is truly a different animal as compared to its Riserva, less forthright, not quite as open or soliciting of immediate gratification. A vertical solo sangiovese expression, seriously structured and needing time. That said there is a brightness and citrus aspect that’s quite invigorating. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Lovely perfume from Bossi’s Riserva and a 100 percent sangiovese that immediately attracts in just this way. A deep well of red fruit rises, coats and then fills the palate for what is simply definitive Riserva for Chianti Classico. No lack for tannins here neither and so come back year after year for five or more for the enhanced and continued experience. The work of a winemaker honing his or her craft is more than apparent. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

An early release 2023, realizing its potential ahead of usual to mark a minor shift in design and expression from Fèlsina. Never missing the evergreen note always prevalent in these sangiovese of southeastern Castelnuovo Berardenga and Chianti Classico. A touch dusty and with the Balsamico of the località, though never shocking and really quite expected. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Colonia 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There have been great Colonia made over the past 12 years but does it not just feel like Giovanni Poggiali and his intelligent team have been waiting for 2021 to come along and take this cru to another level? The can’t ever miss style and macchia notes are present and accounted for, but here in the most hyperbole of ways. An exaggeration of riches, a highest level of fitness and fullness not yet uncovered. The 2021 is an amazing wine, minty and white chocolate woody but always evergreen and cool in the face but also as a compliment to its warming heart. Virtuoso performance by ’21 Colonia, a Gran Selezione with the nurturing care of Pietro Pettinaio, in the school of Giuseppe Collignon and Domenico Beccafumi, all in the name of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Losi Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

There’s something happening in Castellina from 2022 because there are wines with darker fruit and more depth than most of the Chianti Classico UGAs. Here with grip and this feeling of sangiovese liqueur exaggerated in colour and heft by the 10 percent colorino in the wine. Quite the extraction and the tannic presence for a profile bigger than Losi of the past. Another curious ’22 Castellina that can’t be ignored. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Quite the silky Castelnuovo sangiovese seasoned with salt, pepper and spices by 10 percent altri vitigni and there is no doubt the team led by Leonardo Bellaccini have found the sweet spot with this vim, relish and vigour 2022. Fruit and structure, one, the other, then back again for more. Incredible considering the quantities produced. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Campione: Quite forward and understandable as a sample, fruit certainly full, ripe and still a touch dusty. Not exactly rigid though not yet malleable in terms of mouthful and certainly structure. Well reasoned and so will round out into a good Annata, seasoned and understandably forward. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2023, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Nothing else scents like a Tolaini Chianti Classico, no matter the appellative level and in Annata the florals, mint and chocolate are at the height of heights. As is the luxe showiness, strut with feathers extended and beauty for all to see. Tannins are fierce and extensive, not to mention stretched far and long. Wholly impressive at this appellative level. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

With Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli – Villa di Geggiano

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Intensity from an ultra specific località with its descending fluvial screes between two hills. A microclimate unlike those on either side for which the sangiovese receives a mineral deposit all its own and 2022 brings the metal forward in full and proper distribution. Cuts through the fruit with sapid intent while fine if persistent tannins surround the whole. Best to let this ’21 sit for a couple of years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Big vintage for Geggiano’s south-westerly Castelnuovo location transmitted through Riserva with all the fruit, and more. All the silky, cool and gelid feels there could and would ever want to be. Intensity of minerals, Alberese namely and who could not feel this mouthful of metal, gemstone and elements in the mouth. How could you possibly miss it? Sangiovese that stays with you for minutes on end. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Gaiole

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Not exactly closed yet not particularly expressive and so maybe the wish would be for this 2022 from Badia a Coltibuono to wait another year ahead of release. Still it has aged in bottle a year longer than some ‘23s now being presented and time will shift the gears for the wine to express its Coltibuono località. The savour and acidity of forests, elevation and mixed indigenous varieties accenting sangiovese delivers another ultra-specified Chianti Classico Annata. Close your eyes, conjure and recall BdC’s of the past and the 2022 will fall right into line. It could not have been made by just anyone nor have come from anywhere else. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Gaiole

A bit seductive this Riserva from Badia a Coltibuono, it should be supposed because of the vintage and fruit stands up to counted with more immediacy than memory will try to recall. Ripeness to the edge and lingering, suggestive of maturity but in a holding pattern. Liquorice on the palate and again this sort of palaver involved, but then the wine steps back once again. An immediate gratification, in other words a phrase not ever used before to describe a Coltibuono Riserva but there it is and so this vintage is more ready to drink. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2022, Gaiole

The door to “Vertine,” a località within Gaiole that Luca Vitiello and his Bertinga team have chosen to exult, explain and present to the world. Their’s brings more fruit and modern styling to Gaiole and in turn to the whole that is Chianti Classico. A ready for drinking, juicy and openly generous, 100 percent sangiovese for every reason to believe. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2022, Gaiole

A new epoch for Cantalici’s Baruffo begins with this feeling of a transition having happened. Not just because of the clean, cool and ultra clear modernity but also the absence of barrel, or the feeling that wood sheds little importance into this wine. Only sangiovese, expressly Gaiole and yet new for the UGA, or at least different. There is substantial chew in texture that reminds of liquorice and because of aromas meeting style, but also a chalky tannin underneath. No bitters at the finish confirm the change in direction where less has become more. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2021, Gaiole

A mouthful of acidity, tannin and mineral direct and defining Ama’s Montebuoni 2021, a wine not yet mature enough to say the window has opened. Quite woody at this age while the dark fruit is so very substantial and so time is needed to melt them into one another. That acidity and seriousness of Balsamic quality speaks to the Gaiole origin as the source for this level of appellation. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Lorenzo 2021, Gaiole

San Lorenzo the concept comes from the vineyard with that name and now the ideal conceives of Gran Selezione as a wine to speak for all of Ama’s Gaiole. The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigneto Bellavista 2020, Gaiole

Bellavista is first and foremost the Gran Selezione only made in select vintages, inclusive of 20 percent malvasia nera and also the one of ripest fruit with a view. The depth in 2020 is serious, the wine at once grounded and then acidity of a Gaiole nature kicks in to lift and see this Bellavista rise. Full and beautiful, seamless, orchestrated by a master of decades and artistic appreciation while delivering a modernist’s virtuoso performance. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Southerly directed Gaiole, Monti in Chianti sangiovese with the bits of malvasia and colorino lending colour and spice accent with liquorice and bokser pod for a dried herb, leathery fruit and botanical iteration. Nicely balanced affair with ample freshness and a settled disposition. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Just five percent merlot softens the sangiovese with many vineyards of the 130 hectares in total contributing. Usually the youngest vines and also some of the plots that experience the warmest climate for the season. Ages 15 months, half in cement and half in large (really old) French cask. No tannic impart and this is about as correct, clean, acid retentive and well adjusted a Chianti Classico as you are want to find. Warm vintage yet freshness and fruit quality is knowably ripe and easy. Less savoury and more fruit centric than in years past. Last tasted February 2025

Intensity of red fruit, almost searing while this young and immovable but surely a far cry from overly pressed or done. Surely a matter of Gaiole and vintage with Meleto sure to respect and deliver what it’s meant to bring. Another ’22 that must be waited on, again confirming how different these are to 2017. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Campione: I mean of course its tight and yet to resolve but this sample by San Giusto shows more wealth of upfront fruit than could have been expected. Darker fruit than 2022 and also 2021, closer to 2020 but once again the individual character of modern vintages can’t be denied. Feels a bit serious at this very early stage but substance at this level will mean a wine that will be held in high regard. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Le Baròncole 2022, Gaiole

Campione: Unsettled sample here from San Giusto, chalky and finely grainy at this earliest of stages. Just a glimpse into what 2022 will become, years further down the road. Can’t really recall a sangiovese from the house showing wood like this but the vintage will show more taciturn moments in wines built to last. Far more tannins present than noted in the last several years, a freight of weight tethered to the fruit, keeping it low and below. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Romantic dinner for two

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Sharp and clean while oh so 2022 but how could it not be? Well to be honest Le Miccine gets the vintage so bloody correct because the mix of fruit and body come together as one. There is no doubt this Annata is just where maker and place wanted it to be so kudos to both for abiding by their mutual bond. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Campione: Stewed and pruned. Oxidative barrel sample that gives no indication as to the quality or any sense of what the finished wine will be. Palate tells a better story though it’s challenging to fit the pieces together when the launch point is problematic. An example that speaks to avoiding tasting samples. Tasted February 2024

Marchesi Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2020, Gaiole

In Gran Selezione terms for Chianti Classico Rialzi is about as singular as it gets. Just drive up the road from La Villa in Radda, into Gaiole and through to Perano to know what you are dealing with. Olive trees, cypress, pine, other evergreens, rosemary, sage and brushy greens on your left give away to the single Rialzi Vineyard on your right. All that verdancy translates into these 25 year-old, cordone speronato vines for a very specific Balsamico, drawn from the greens, through the experienced vines and into the fruit. The vineyard was called “I Rialzi,” literally “the lifted up,” or now “the steps, or terraces. Lamberto Frescobaldi always insists “the vineyard matters most,” and in this case that is simply true. Aromatic confusion in a way but more so volume, palate tension and also vintage. Incidentally warmer than 2019, lending more volumetric credence and tending towards a bigger iteration of Gran Selezione. Feels more like the Rialzi of expectation and the kind of structure to go on and on. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere Ciona Chianti Classico DOCG Proprieta Gatteschi 2021, Gaiole

Freshness incarnate from the small single hillside Gaiole estate, a quintessential extension from a forest località, whole and fulfilled of its own accord. As equanimous as any Chianti Classico that exists. Silk-threaded and sumptuous from the first through filamented acidity and elastic texture. Tannins are fine, unobtrusive and acquiescing. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Francesco Ricasoli sets the 2023 up by describing it as “crispy,” which translates as freshness but who could not think of Brolio ‘23 as juicy. Classic black cherry for this label of 600,000 bottles encompassing all five soil types, 250 hectares and everything that is collected, layered and transcribed as the Ricasoli estate. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted February 2025

Campione: Youthful, still a bit reductive in a sweet bell peppery way, herbal amaro yet to stretch and let the fruit speak first. Good fruit however, substantial and showing Gaiole’s abilities for 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Brolio 2022, Gaiole

Riserva is truly the extension of Annata, from across the entirety of the Ricasoli estate and aged longer. Accedes to more concentration but still the Ricasoli style must be attended to; sharp, clean, drinkable and a provider of joy. This much is true and yes, the clarity is on display, so obvious in its openly generous and frank transparency. If there were rustic aspects 10 years ago they have long since left the building. It has been a matter of fine tuning, vintage after vintage. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Gaiole

Another ready to rock 2023 Annata and if any commune slash UGA is set up to deliver early it feels like Gaiole is the one. The naturally matured fruit and especially sweet acidity mixes with plush tannins that need not grip the wine but inserted allow for ease and drinkability. In fine form with a real neural swirl throughout. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Rocca Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Gaiole

Still in rapid pulse mode, agitative, unsettled and excited. High tones and fruit working from left to right, red to black, low to high. Croccante and crackling to the nth degree, rigid and vertical, structured as Annata can be but with a light, bright and transparent Burgundian like character. Remembering tasting this from barrel and not surprised to see this as the next stage result. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Federico Pini and Riccardo Bucciolini – Torcibrencoli

Greve

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Indelible stamp of the house, estate style present, accounted for and oft repeated, again as here, in perpetuity. For 2023 there is a deeper well of sweet fruit that hides the macchia and so a less savoury Carpineto is the result. Quite fine and openly generous this early to allow access ahead of most contemporaries Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Greve

Consistently a matter of dark fruit, dusty qualities and Balsamico swirled into reductive syrup. Maximum ripeness from 2021 while località and winemaking style make sure to remind of every vintage that came before. There is no mistaking a Carpineto wine, exaggerated in Riserva and doubly so as Gran Selezione. Without any shadow of a doubt. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Carpineto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Greve

The dusty song reminds of the same and in such a Carpineto way, from Annata to Riserva and straight through to Gran Selezione. Also from vintage to vintage and expect the top from 2021. That it delivers in terms of fruit if just some overripeness and yet still the acidity, Balsamico and as a combinative result, also here Amaro. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Greve

Rich and unctuous 2023 from the Dudda Valley, still quite tight, yet layered and fibrous. A fabric of place quilted into a tapestry of fruit and acidity with tannins at the edges to roll up and lock it all in. Should unravel, reveal its textures and brighten with time. Will be welcomed. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Guado Alto 2023, Greve

One of the earlier released and drinking sangiovese is this from Greve in all its accessible and amenable glory. Classically styled with red fruit that speaks to what so many know and understand as Chianti Classico. Crisp and ultra fruity, like a bite out of a perfectly ripened piece of stone fruit, juices dripping with natural sweetness in overload. So well judged and made. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2022, Greve

Classic Vicchiomaggio styling for an up the middle Riserva road with ripest fruit and sweet acids before the softest and mildest tannins say hello. Easy, creamy, generous and correct. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Bolle 2021, Greve

Time has done well to bring Le Bolle into a fine light and this from a Gran Selezione never pushy, heavy or tense. Does not demand too much form our palates and gives senselessly of itself. Quality wine in good temper and very much alive. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025.

Le Bolle, the name of the cluster of houses in a specific locality and therefore in the register inside the frazione of Greti within the commune of Greve. A Gran Selezione single vineyard of just sangiovese, initially made in 2006 and first presented as a GS at VinItaly in 2019. More aromatic volume and power than La Prima but also a smooth as silk sensation on the nose and also on the palate. Stylish, certainly more woodiness and perceived sweetness because the tannins are in fact ripe and the mouthfeel classically scorrevole. Longer and more persistent from a GS that represents the house style. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted October 2024

Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Wildly aromatic Annata from Jurji Fiore’s Greve UGA (hill of) Ruffoli Annata for Chianti Classico individuality. Fruit is on the darker side of the hill’s spectrum to speak for 2022 and not only ripneness, but how things ended up to be. Complex and structured, vertical, mineral and zested by dark citrus, inclusive of the imagined feeling of juiced pomegranate. So well made, unforced, non-plussed and yet to reach its peak. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Greve

Now here is a 2022 that shows us the greatness of the finest agricultural work, followed by studious attention in the cellar. Adds up to am Annata that truly abides by what the last 10 years have all been about. There is a balance and flow to this 100 percent Ruffoli sangiovese that some ‘22s struggle to find. Fruit first and foremost but then this proper mix of acidity and tannin, neither demanding more than the other and both supportive. So well managed and executed Annata, nearly ready to drink. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Greve

First vintage of the “regular,” non single vineyard Chianti Classico was 2009. An Annata conceived from vines between 250 and 350m at the base of Greve’s Ruffoli hill. A perfectly correct Classico, dark of fruit, easy to enjoy, fine though never tart, acidity spot on and smooth. Clean as there could be and a clarity that speaks to style, precise winemaking and place. Made with 95 percent sangiovese with (5) canaiolo. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Richiari Porciglia Chianti Classico DOCG Il Paccio 2020, Greve

The single vineyard Classico from the oldest vineyard of 40 years where Alberese and Pietraforte predominate the soils. Not made in every vintage because, well quality and passion matter dearly to brothers Leonardo and Alessandro. You can clearly see the choices passed down from father Emilio and the stubbornness to only make quality wines with the season dictating the choices. Made in ’20, skipped in ’21 (though Riserva was made) and aged for six months in 15hL Botti after fermentation in stainless, followed by one year in cement vats. Il Paccio the name is just what every generation called this vineyard and place but no one really knows why it is called this. Such a proper Classico and representation of the designation “cru” because there is something so specific and distinct about this sangiovese (with eight percent canaiolo) in its sapid style. Ready to drink though you can see this aging five more years without any real change and certainly zero decline. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted February 2025

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG Le Tre Vigne 2022, Greve

Le Tre Vigne, two in Greve and the third in Montefioralle, three individualistic places, three separate geological entities drawn upon, gathered and collected for great Annata complexity. A liquid chalky, openly assuming and stand up to be noticed three vineyard set that struts but does not sit down, or still. Exercise some patience to allow it all to come together. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Torcibrencoli Chianti Classico DOCG Maria Giaconda 2020, Greve

The boys of Torcibrencoli have not only found something special for Gran Selezione but also the kind of sangiovese in Annata that takes their work to another level. Dark fruit of depth and breadth for this northerly Greve location and a saline undercurrent to cut through the drupe. Amazing work from young winemakers feeling their way through this appellative world. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Still a sample because it won’t released until next year but it is a finished wine. A vintage of quality though not completely there in terms of quantity. Unfortunately the next three years will be even smaller but things will turn around in 2024. Les flesh as compared to 2019 but the linear quality seems highly appropriate and the backbone will serve this wine well. Some austerity in the tannins to resolve but they are part of the trenchant plan. A masala of spice defines the finish. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted October 2024

Lamole

Castellaccio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019, Lamole

In the hands of young Davide Bottai after the work from Lorenzo Bottai and Federico Lozzi. A light, bright, nearly ethereal Chianti Classico now with vines growing up at the highest part of Lamole above 700m with Monte San Michele looming overhead. This is impressive sangiovese from Lamole deserving of attention. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castellinuzza E Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Lamole

Campione: There are Classico and then there are Lamole Classico which this emphasizes with a capital “L” as a cool, savoury and airy sangiovese. With a few percentage points each of endemic varieties canaiolo and malvasia which do effect an alteration with their ability to inject complexity into sangiovese. There is liquorice and Amaro, herbal pesto and a liquid chalky underbelly that speaks in the clearest of sandstone soil voices. Proper and reflective of 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castellinuzza Proprieta Cinuzzi Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Lamole

So much more modernity from 2021 in the Cinuzzi label for this faction of the Castelinuzza Lamole cartel with more glycerin and softness on the mid-palate than seemingly ever before. Can’t previously recall this much ripeness and in this style yet here we are with a sweetly generous and warming 2021. Get at it. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2021, Lamole

Susanna Grassi’s 2021 continues to be the vintage of record and the extra year in bottle has done wonders to see her sangiovese (with 10 percent canaiolo) come through its period of transition. Aromas have concentrated, flavours conjoin with fleshiness and the wine now fully justifies the nomenclature. Terra di Lamole, master of its own terroir, terraces peeking upwards from 550m to 600-plus for a destiny above. Red fruit intensity elevated by the quintessential Lamole perfume forever and always. Terra di realtà, Lamole di cuore. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

I Fabbri, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Lamole

Full sangiovese for I Fabbri, high acidity working alongside Lamole perfume with a feeling of wood because of the vintage. Quite a bit of earth on the nose in 2020, spice cupboard and liquorice. Unique for a Susanna Grassi sangiovese and nothing soft or light about it. So curious! Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Lamole

Like Riserva there is a wealth of fruit in I Fabbri’s Gran Selezione but this time the Lamole minerals strike first and fast. They take aim to inject an elemental jangling into fruit and coupled with the local perfume there is this wild at heart feeling about the wine. Major happenings in 2020 GS, complexities found throughout, bound up in the book of Lamole and with length from Greve to Casole and back. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Montefioralle

Castello Di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Worthy exercise to taste 2022 next to the settled 2021 because you see how much bolder this next vintage really is. Silky sangiovese impurezza as it is said, warm and sun-ripened at elevation with a look to the Chianti Mountains due east. A syrup of fruit and acidity swirled and seductive, acids purely Montefioralle and a balance discovered throughout. Deeper and darker fruit, sinking into brooding and a sangiovese that will need time to shed it’s weight and rise up again. The acidity will see to that rising and when the weather warms in 2027 this Verrazzano will begin to drink as it should. Fine Annata and one that resembles the Gran Selezione, albeit as parts of the appellative whole. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted twice, at the winery and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Bastignano 2021, Montefioralle

One of three Capponi Gran Selezione and in 2021 this just has to be the succulent one with the most up front mastery. Easy to understand, full and persuasive, flowing, languid and long. Bastignano is the sangiovese that takes it all in stride, of verse flowing into refrain, a composition never delivering a moment of gratuity. There without forcing anything, balanced as they come, earlier drinking than the other grippier Selezione. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Contessa Luisa 2021, Montefioralle

Contessa Luisa, closer in style to Bastignano then to Fornace with more glycerol and silken texture. Also a metal-mineral cloud burst through, like ink in slow motion, injected into water. Fruit feels purple or nearly so and here again the 2021 vintage is full of fruit so ripe and expressive. Memories of discussing the April frost and the state of Chianti Classico with Sebastiano Capponi flood back with a taste of Contessa Luisa. Such a fine Gran Selezione. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Conti Capponi/Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG La Fornace 2021, Montefioralle

The grandest statement of the three Capponi Gran Selezione is made by La Fornace, of the vineyard nicknamed “the furnace,” a place where solar radiation, especially in a vintage like this brings all the fruit out to play. More tension than the others, a greater demand made on our palates and a sapidity unlike the rest. Serious Selezione, perhaps less finessed and one to savour for years, but not quite yet. Drink 2028-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection

With Neri Capponi

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2023, Montefioralle

A rare reductive 2023 though nothing serious, however there is a candied shell in surround of cherry/red candy apple fruit. Wood imparts vanilla and it’s hard not to feel a sense of syrupy style. A bit cloying while admittedly flavourful. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the rich and famous sangiovese to lead the Montefioralle charge with dark fruit for 2022 and more character than in many of its neighbouring UGAs. A liqueur of fruit and acidity in great swirl for Chianti Classico unction. Namely sangiovese with (five percent each) canaiolo and colorino, full and substantial, tannic primarily at the finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Montefioralle

Quite the full and substantial fruit-filled ’23 from Viticcio, an estate on a Montefioralle roll. Still taut and chalky but there is great promise from this set of presented probabilities. A relished effort that will lead to a just reward. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Viticcio Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Prunaio 2019, Montefioralle

Prunaio is beginning to resolve, to see a next level of integration and a drinkability not too far away. Fruit is persistently fresh, acids sweet and fattening, structural parts in play though without any austerity or great tannin. There is some mind you, but in good control and working well alongside the pleasurable parts of this Gran Selezione. Fine work here in 2019 from Vitticio. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Shenanigans at Enoteca Baldi, Panzano

Panzano

Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

For 2022 this represents perfectly fit and proper sangiovese with balance accorded and afforded all the way through. A wine of Panzano riches but also tannic austerity connected by the acidity made available and captured to strengthen the overall bond. A Cafaggio vintage that impresses with its mix of fortitude and charm. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Ca’ Di Pesa Chianti Classico DOCG Burrone 2022, Panzano

Grippy and glycerin sangiovese from 2022, a reflection of Panzano through more recent times, here magnified out of Ca’ di Pesa’s corner. An exaggeration of warm vintage riches confiscated and expressed in this near simple Galestro syrup sangiovese. Wood is still an early factor and needs to dissolve into the fabric of this wine. Give it more time. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Consistent with the warmth and specificity of red fruit from 2022 that just keeps on keeping on. It’s uncanny how many Annata of the vintage are juiced from the same sangiovese vine, expressed as citrus in the most ripe and pith spiced way. Not a bitterness per se and nothing like black cherry but there’s something so distinct and unprecedented about the sangiovese, at least not as a profile that has come around in the last ten years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Rignana Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

One of the only Chianti Classico using cabernet franc (at 10 percent) to spice up sangiovese. This is Rignana’s use of the Loire (but in Tuscany) more so Bordeaux-styled grape variety for great sense and full expression. Brings another kind of verdancy and spiciness to Riserva and also to Panzano. More than curious, always sumptuous and for 2021 resulting in a great combination. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Just only recently bottled, a 100 percent sangiovese from a very hot season and the challenge faced because of a devastating hailstorm that occurred on the night of August 15th. Thirty hectares (of 105 total) were lost to this rarest, once in a century happening. “It was revolting,” says Bernardo Manetti, “if you smelled the grapes after the hail.” The approach for 2022 became one of lower extraction and less aging, the wines taken out of wood in July after just nine months. The severely reduced crop yielded this concentration and inedible stamp of Conca d’Oro richness with a fine tannic presence and ripeness at peak both adding to the compaction of the wine. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Dino 2022, Panzano

Dino is the sangiovese fermented and aged in amphora, from the southwest facing vineyard lower down in the Conca d’Oro overlooking the Chianina stables. A strangely low alcohol wine at 13 percent “and we don’t fully know why,” says Bernardo Manetti, but it is in fact a cooler site where temperatures really drop down in the night. Bottled in June of 2024 after three months of maceration and just a year and a half of aging. Always the push-pull between earthy and musky, as here with high poly-phenolic character. There is a presence to the 2022 with thanks to the lithe frame housing fleshy red fruit. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Pastrolo 2022, Panzano

Like Dino (in amphora) the aging time in wood for Pastrolo is shorter and so this 2022 put to bottle in June of 2024. From the Lamole (UGA) vineyard pruned in a variation of alberello or goblet training style but the vines run higher due to Pastrolo’s steep terraces. The soils are unique, marine in origin and called marna di macigno, in other words a Galestro type of cracked or flaky manifestation, but in this case from sandstone. The grace and harmony of ’22 Pastrolo is soothing with a delicasse that no other Gran Selezione will ever show. It’s remarkable from this more than warm vintage and the 14.5 percent alcohol is barely perceived. This will wake you up, especially if you are tasting in the first part of the morning. Thank you Pastrolo. I needed that. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna del Sorbo 2022, Panzano

A finished wine because today is bottling day and what serendipity to taste it on the day. Vigna Del Sorbo is one of the vineyards that escaped the August 16th hail because it’s on the other side of the (Conca d’Oro) valley. Full quantity as a result, approximately one-third matured in new wood, the second year spent in older cask. Freshness captured and as always Vigna del Sorbo is the spiciest of the Gran Selezione but also the one of the three with the finest, if grainiest tannic profile. This after an aromatic wave of floral and mineral before giving way to a sangiovese that integrates with impunity. You’ve got to figure that the age of the vines are responsible for handling the heat of 2022. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted February 2025

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG San Leolino 2022, Panzano

Just being bottled as we speak and the quietest opening pronouncement as compared to Pastrolo (Lamole) and Vigna del Sorbo (Panzano – Conca d’Oro). This from the terraces below and in surround of the Pieve up on the hill where Alberese soil predomimates, unique to Fontodi because schisty clay (with Galestro), Pietraforte (calacreous sandstone conglomerate) and Marna di Macigno (marine sandstone) define the other wines. The Alberese limestone makes for a crispier and more croccante sangiovese, magnified in 2022 and while this is also quite tannic the catalyst to exaggeration is made by the highest acidity of the three. Vinoso but even more succulenza, a very specific character that is San Leolino. In fact this Gran Selezione will take longer to come together, but again the vintage dictates and solicits this response. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted February 2025

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

Pietraforte conglomerate sandstone in full relatable regale suggests a most mineral Riserva from Gagliole for 2021. A Riserva of its own accord, owing less of a connection than some to the estate’s Annata or to Gran Selezione. Mainly because the former works with Castellina fruit and the latter is more block specific. Riserva from Panzano comes replete with exciting acidity and a blues note that bend…and hangs. Fruit in the middle with great confidence and tannins on the periphery. As good as it gets. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Truly youthful Riserva from Gagliole and a representation of 2021 that we as tasters simply want to drink. The nose delivers sweet mineral sensations drawn through Pietraforte stone and simply rendered juiciness with negligible to almost no noticeable barrel. Spicy and tart, tannic and linear, vertical and built for the perfect space between Annata, Gran Selezione and big boy IGT. This is what we call the sweet spot. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted February 2024

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Panzano

Tasted as a Campione (sample) just five days ago and now the finished blend just bottled is in remarkably ready condition. As far as 2023 is concerned the combination of freshness and structure are about as connected as it gets. A Pietraforte meets Galestro mineral juiciness that bleeds terroir, Panzano and the purity of sangiovese. No reduction, nor volatility neither. An Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico cleans up really, really well. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Panzano

A bit closed, not locked in or shut tight but quiet, in waiting, always the hardest part. Not the palate however, expressive, shot through with acidity, quite intense and with a few minutes passing the aromatics begin to come around. What is that scent? What perfume is that? A Panzano savour, Balsamico, Pietraforte as active rock in transference to sangiovese. Sneaky tannins and conspicuous if clear-cut structure, elegant wine, not ready, a true Riserva. Would that it were a blast from the past but manifested clean, crisp and modern. Tops for Molino di Grace at this appellative level. Last tasted February 2024 and at the Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Campione (Sample): Riserva is high quality in 2021 though lessened in quantity thanks to an angry April frost around Easter time. Nothing much has changed in that Riserva takes the best fruit from special vineyards including that of Al Bosco. Very youthful so bottling in November or December may by necessary but there is tension, a twitchiness and an aggressive personality that speaks to top level structure. This will age very well. Smaller production of 18,000 bottles. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted October 2023

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Just sangiovese from the Panzano perch where Pietraforte runs through the ridge and only these sangiovese reek and taste of this particular mineral-rich sangiovese blood. As here with one that takes this thought to a high level from the vintage. Still quite a bit of structure here. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

The crunchiest and most piqued of Panzano vintages is juicy and peppery in the hands of Il Palagio di Panzano. Just ever so slightly reductive and in that space caught inside a hard shell, acids and tannins circulating like protons around the atom. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Geology of Panzano

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

A vintage predicated sangiovese as much as any and evev more so one that speaks to Panzano’s reaction to the season. There is a tendency to extract just a bit too much but Le Cinciole hits the proverbial nail on the head. The capture is precise, restrained and the wine acts undeterred. This to say it shows balance and potential, especially for Annata. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Aluigi Campo Ai Peri 2020, Panzano

Panzano expression incarnate, red fruit ripe and silken without glycerol gratuity and flirting with untethered gravity. A richness while also barrel work lending a creamy mouthfeel that still needs to soften further, integrate the associated spice and see this become a Gran Selezione of parts develop into the whole. Just some austerity in the structure stands in the way. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Panzano

Juicy and forthright 2022 as much as any in Panzano and perhaps the 10 percent (9 + 1) merlot and cabernet sauvignon are to thank for the softening of this wine. Without their additions this might be one serious and tough nut to track. As it stands there is great structure involved and the expert blending has led this ’22 in a very proper direction. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Panzano

Le Fonti’s is a 100 percent sangiovese from east facing Panzano vineyards with all the morning sun captured for Gran Selezione of truly effusive character. Tannins are a bit in charge however and there needs to be a reckoning sometime soon. A wealth of flavour, touch of mocha and so much more. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2022, Panzano

The unmistakable touch and feel of a Monte Bernardi sangiovese here from 2022, up in the air where rare and vacuous receive the fruit of a most passionate and discerning labour. Sangio’ is Annata born in the fields and nowhere but, cumulate of proper but also determined decisions to make full use of every grape available. Once in the cantina it fends for itself because it is equipped to do so and yes this is the most natural of wines in the way you would ask for it to be. Acids are elastic but will become even more so as the sangiovese stretches, fleshes and finishes its giretto. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025.

Fourth vintage of Sangio’, second of two Annata made by Michael Schmelzer, namely from the younger nine hectare parcels grown at the highest elevation. Brighter and yet chalkier than Retromarcia, though increasingly less of an almost “Riserva” style that the Retro M. has become. Delivers that blood orange sensibility in sangiovese. Tannins feel less experienced and stylish but the potential (looking ahead five-plus years) is nevertheless striking. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted again, February 2024.

A windy place between 550 and 600m above Panzano a few kms northeast of the estate, a wine with a less serious name but not so in terms of the classicism that defines cool climate sangiovese. Crunchy or as it is said croccante, a beautiful and important use of (10 percent) stems, profoundly Monte Bernardi and the sort of tannins that grab hold of the senses, hold on tight, smiling and we in turn nod knowingly each moment along the way. A cooler yet sunny place, Alberese limestone helping to maintain the acidity and 16 months aging (barrels but skewed more towards concrete) so that in the end the wine you want to drink flows consistently from the bottle. Tasted February 2024

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Panzano

Purity and natural beauty for this Panzano Riserva. Something primary about it to be sure but c’mon it’s 2022 and the wine has barely touched the sky. Down to earth yes but bright and of a purple fruit exclusive to this estate and label. Monte Bernardi’s tastes like none else, in a class of its own and a sangiovese (with five percent colorino) such as this will change your mind about how to grow, ferment and bottle Chianti Classico. Just those three tenets of the process. Especially when they are as clean and pure as this. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

High quality fruit, ripe and luxe, expressive as any and thankful we all are for the wait. A 2021 kept a year (and in many cases two) longer than much of the rest, well executed in composition and all this in light of just a bit too much wood still on top. Nevertheless this will resolve and a very good Annata will impress with its wealth of fruit and complex character. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Casenuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Panzano

Another beautiful season, not at the beginning because of the April 7th frost which delayed development by a month – though in the end the wines showed with great balance. In part because of less bunches and bunch weight per plant but also because of a great September rain that followed a hot summer for the latest finish to harvest in recent times – September 25th. Everything in this wine moves in unison, all parts working together for a polished and luxe example of Chianti Classico. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Radda

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2022, Radda

You can feel the warmth and lack of precipitation from the vintage, not quite 2017 aridity but the Macchia and Selvatica are surely present in every aspect of the wine. A mix of brushy and rosemary character, dried herbs and still the Raddese acidity keeps the fruit buoyed and alive. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Poggio Croce 2021, Radda

Just the second Chianti Classico Riserva turned out under the new ownership at Terrabianca and quite the refined example here from 2021. There is beauty and restraint, far, far less wood than in the past and a transparency that keeps things open, lithe and airy. Though the acidity is high in zest and piquancy there is a softness about how it presents on the palate. It results in a wine ready to drink but there is no hurry because it will stay focused like this for a few years yet. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Arillo In Terrabianca Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Terrabianca 2020, Radda

Some Gran Selezione 2022s are hitting the market and 2021 is the current main stage for the appellation but still there are estates staying focused on 2020. Like the new team at Arilla that must have watched this wine like a hawk over its aging tenure. Finally arrived and settled it has, not into maturity per se but ready to open and be consumed. Loving the captured acidity, so distinctly Raddese though not from the UGA’s upper reaches. A structural composition unto itself. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

More fruit and developed substance than the average and also compared to recent Brancaia Annata. The 100 percent sangiovese child of a long, slow, gentle and cumulative maceration to result in the most modern and seductive Chianti Classico. A pour of Brancaia’s 2023 Annata will be the one to convince world markets just how far the territory has come in the last 10 years. Definitive for the current state of the Gallo Nero. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Brancaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

The most exotically perfumed Riserva in the territory, at least from 2022, with the scents of lemongrass, fenugreek and in the oddest way the aromatics that create a Thai Curry. Unusual? Yes. Seductive? Absolutely. Feels like a percentage of American wood and 20 percent merlot are the answers to the questions and still the seduction is real. If you like Rioja Riserva this will be right up your alley and if you can appreciate the different than you should also be pleased. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Caparsa Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, Radda

Bright and beaming, bursting with Raddese frescezza for a 2021 Annata now knocking on the door of success mode after nearly the right amount of extra time in bottle. Still quite crunchy, sure as Caparsa herbal and tannins not quite yet justified. Plenty of reserve in the tank for an Annata yet to fully reach its peak. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Youthful early release of Albola’s Annata, still tight and yet focused, crisp, crunchy and as they say, croccante. Crushable but not quite yet because the rocks have yet to pulverize and melt into the fabric of this 100 percent sangiovese. Truly Radda considering the quantity and worthy of you $20 bill. Drink 2026–2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

A ripe and dark fruit organized Riserva with high skin to pulp feeling in the musky perfume and husky flavours filling the mouth. Plenty of texture and tannin involved in the make-up and positioning with wood a factor and age ability the promise. Solid construct in a fine if recognizable Riserva contract. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badiòla 2021, Radda

Much darker, compressed and more seriously compacted of substantial fruit defining Badiòla’s Radda character as compared to the less distinct Castellina label. Here a Gran Selezione from a terrific concave vineyard next to the 11th century church with a view to die for. Richesse and sweet acidity, a note of forest Balsamico and full palate fills without pause. Top drop for the family Mazzei. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Distinct and recognizable for this south-central westerly part of Radda with an herbaceous edge to the scintillant of red fruit. Charged and semi-electric, black cherry stone bitterness to the fruit’s back side and the presence of quality tannins made edgy by bits of green. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: Quite a youthful mouthful of fruit and tannin from Volpaia’s serious 2023, long macerated and viscous with time so necessary to settle it all down. Even the 10 percent merlot does little to soften the Raddese intensity at a time when the wine is yet to be put to bottle. Poetry of crunch and chew, botanicals and tonic, things all needing time. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022, Radda

Truth for 2022 is Riserva as only Volpaia can gift, that is to say with restraint and respect for vintage. Perfumed yet never gratuitously so and the barrel work is done with a slightly heavier hand than in recent years past. Effects balance for a 100 percent sangiovese that feels cool, gelid, mineral and elastic. The wood does well to integrate the parts for Riserva without airs with thanks to its micro-oxygenating effects. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Il Puro 2021, Radda

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always di Volpaia. Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040. Tasted February 2025

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Fine fruit-centric Annata from southeast Radda’s Monterinaldi with a gentle easing in and glide on through. Plum and orange citrus work the room to keep the energy up. Bigger than 2019, on par with 2020 and consistently extended from 2021. That’s the way you do it and like it. Uh-huh, uh-huh. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2020, Radda

Clean and bright, a 2020 Raddese acidity sharp and focused, so very different and as a whole in the vintage this sangiovese is day for night unlike the wines of nearby Panzano. As effusive and lithe as they come though wood is detected and not quite consumed. Still the light touch is noted and appreciated. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

For Monterinaldi Riserva resides between Classico and Classico Vigneto Boscone and picking happens between the two, though Boscone is an entity all on its own. This fruit usually comes from middle elevation. Riserva sees Botti and it’s just so obvious because there is more texture and compaction, not necessarily concentration but certainly tight grained layering because of the use of wood. So curious that even with wood this feels less barrel affected than most so Riserva. Monterinaldi’s is still a fresh and sapid sangioivese. Crunchiest Riserva in the territory, bar none. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2023

Castello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, Radda

A much more mature, fruit fulfilling and also barrel-affected sangiovese from Radda’s Monterinaldi for 2020. The wood speaks boldly yet within reason and under the bar. As with Riserva the requiem of time will aid but also abet the highest quality fruit wishing to be chaperoned through. The feels here are high and airy, acidity remains in charge yet also requiring some settling. The 2020 represents an early ideological approach for the category and might be viewed as a youthful work in progress. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Knowably visible vivid seasonal style presented in the way of 2022, that is to say of dark fruit in a citrus vein, tart and intense but also a lactic quality involved. A different vintage, certainly warm but also one with a singular profile. Not a dried brushy or herbal one but something different, unique and without any obvious precedent. Unlike all previous vintages from this house. Still this from Radda is, well Raddese. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

With Angela Fronti at Enoteca de Giusti, Firenze

Istine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Istine 2021, Radda

Now labeled Gran Selezione. Here the Radda vineyard for Istine delivers all the Alberese and more in one of the more salty sangiovese you will ever taste. Like squeezing the limestone rocks for the juice to run into the grapes. The entirety of the wine tastes, notes and feels this way, It’s truly uncanny, lending definition to Gran Selezione as lithe and transparent as any Bourgogne. Vigna Istine need not be powerful and brawny – it’s musculature comes from finesse, determination and core strength. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

There can be little doubt that of the three Istine wines that could be Gran Selezione it is the homefront Vigna Istine that quietly settles upon the palate with the most elegance and grace. That and a private austerity, yet nothing to do with asilita, loosely translated as “skininess.” No, there is flesh and body but in an elastic and layered way. Then a return to the elegance and the grace. This is Istine of elevation and Alberese soils. Not labeled Gran Selezione. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted February 2024

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: In the ways of L’Erta di Radda you will note the sapid streak through saline waters but more than ever there is the most naturally sweet and pulpy fruit swelling in mouthfeel for what has to be Diego Finnochi’s finest hour. The potential on 2023 Annata is as strong a guarantee as any of the vintage and in his tenure. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

The Perenospera (resulting in downy mildew) vintage but Piero Lanza only lost 10 percent of his production. Yes – he fared much better than many in the region. He remembers the 24th of June, at the time of the festival of San Giovanni in Florence. “I woke up on the 24th, a foggy morning, I went in the vineyard and everything was white. We sprayed and managed it.” The 2023 is only sangiovese, of 15 different clones and vineyards, a sweetly herbal example, oh so glycerin textured, holding more Bugialla (Riserva) fruit because none was made in 2023. Freshness from concrete aging mixes with wood spice for an easy drinking, balanced and well made Classico. Just recently bottled in December 2024. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Tenuta Di Campomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Radda

Campione: A barrel sample and the question is whether or not this should have been pulled for assessment. Does the choice help or hinder the estate? The open fragrance and specific Radda località perfume in this case answers the question with an emphatic yes, though it still depends on the finish of the wine. Again there is generosity and length, an extension of ripeness in all aspects of the cuvée and so again, yes. The issue is awkwardness and a middle palate section that feels gangly but all living things grow up and mature, as will TdC’s 2023. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda

Val delle Corti, Raddese to the core, still unknown to many but those who know are keenly aware of the fineness in these Chianti Classico. Roberto Bianchi’s 2022 is not as sleek and silken as some long macerated wines he has made before and it’s also quite tannic for Val delle Corti. In that sense I think newcomers to his work will see this as more classically Chianti Classico sangiovese and so a new breed of consumer will join the parade. Line up people – this should also not be missed. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, Radda

Full wealth of macerated sangiovese, nothing but the gold from old vineyards planted 50-plus years ago in high elevation and steep-sloped Radda. As textured in its silken robes as ever and also any, acids in line, fineness from entry to exit. Here the confluence of elevation, a vintage’s climate happenstance, worked to be cut from a new cloth and to the future coincide. No accident but a fully executed plan from a producer who gets it. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Casciano

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Villa Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Villa Antinori label for Chianti Classico Riserva is far less consistent, or rather its consistency is not as refined as the Marchese label. More of a forced nature which is to say winemaking and styling take precedence over seasoning and complexity because of altre varietà complementari that round out the sangiovese. More palate paste, red crayon, liquorice and balm in this wine. Especially because of the vintage. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Marchese Antinori 2022, San Casciano

Consistency thy name is Chianti Classico Riserva, Antinori – Marchese Antinori. Close you eyes and imagine 2020, 2019, 2018 and now 2022. The repetition and same level of quality persists and educates about the power, the ability to refine, rinse and repeat. Liquid red gold, gemstone sangiovese with the mysterious addendum defined as altre varietà complementari. Could there be merlot and/or cabernet sauvignon? Likely. Endemic varieties as in colorino, canaiolo and malvasia? Probably. All adds up to the naturally sweet, accumulation of fruit, acid and tannin, come together at the hands of a top notch winemaking team. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Badia A Passignano 2022, San Casciano

The Gran Selezione of 2022 are at the top of the perfume heap, exotically charged and seriously effusive. Case in point Badia a Passignano with its waves of tropical spice mixed with Amaro botanicals. Chewy mouthful of spicy fruit, liquorice and a touch of tar. Liquid chalky, structured for aging and looking ahead for truffles. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico DOCG Morino 2023, San Casciano

Young and brawny, tannic beyond the pale because truth be told this ’23 still feels to be in a Campione setting. As such the volatile elements, syrupy fruit, reduction and intensity are a bit over the top. Judgment of assessment must be stayed to allow for this wine to become more “finished” than it is in the current state. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Baciate Me Chianti Classico DOCG Avvenne 2020, San Casciano

“Kiss me,“ a play on words for the three men who own the winery, including Le Chiuse and Castello di Meleto oenologist Valentino Ciarla and a vineyard he purchased in San Casciano during Covid. Avvenne loosely translates as “please let me have some more of something, but in one word” and truthfully that is how you will feel after a glass of this wine. It’s is a sangiovese with some canaiolo of very old vines, truly San Casciano with a feeling of the local “macchia” and a natural wild quality, of great temper matched by restraint. The wine rolls and oscillates in waves, acts juicy, very aromatic, light, at times dusty and yet the texture is flowing. Never sharp and just the right balance from a super tiny production. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at Le Chiuse in Montalcino, February 2025

With Stefano Marinari and Federico Pini

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Primary, exciting and confounding in its profundity. A mouth full of sangiovese (plus 10 percent) canaiolo as if bled direct from the crush and run-off of San Casciano river stones. The aromatics are twisted and entangled, nearly strangled yet the palate expresses with intense platitudes. Oxymorons and misunderstandings commit to seeing a Chianti Classico of greatness when the wine will be bottled, settled and set free. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Calcamura Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Now in the third vintage for Calcamura the aging is only in tonneaux, two Slavonian and one French. Only sangiovese from a vineyard in the middle of nowhere but a località called Poggio ai Grilli. Could that be the name of a coming Gran Selezione for Stefano and Andreita? The Annata will be a grand total of 430 bottles that spent a year in Slavonian tonneaux and one in ceramic Tava terracotta. A light touch for a San Casciano sangiovese for which acidity is tempered with 10 percent canaiolo to affect a sangiovese between salinity and sapidity. A wine made by experienced hands not trying to coax too much from the rockiest river stone soils available to anyone in the whole of Chianti Classico. Never ambitious, always respectful and a feeling gained from out of the receded waters (so to speak) to make Annata as pinot noir Burgundian, nebbiolo Piedmontesino or nerello mascalese Etnean as any in the entirety of the territory. A more precise and verging on profound Chianti Classico with that terrific combination of drinkability and structure. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted twice, at Borgo Machiavelli and The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Campione: Truly primary and still quite a reductive element in charge of the wine. As with other 2023 samples there is not enough in the aromas to really set the tone but the palate delivers a luxe wealth of fruit and texture. Acids are running high, mighty and amok while the overall structure seems poised to see this Annata get set for a long and fruitful run. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Capaccioli Poggio Niccolini Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Beautifully perfumed Riserva from Capaccioli in 2022 with experienced fruit from an old vineyard knowing just what to do. Exotically charged with aromatics by seed and tuber, star anise to galangal for a south by south east Asian spice bouquet. The ripenesses are necessary to keep up and all three do their part, if also the bidding to secure longevity. That will be the case for Riserva that should drink dutifully for up to 10 years time. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castelli Del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Lactic and confected, liquid chalky and tart. Hard in the end. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Casciano

Rich, full and creamy, acidity sweet and supportive while tannins don’t seem so interested in causing a stir. A no fuss nor muss Riserva that fills the mouth and the heart. The five percent merlot feels significant, bringing another element of softness to a sangiovese eager to please. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Bellezza 2021, San Casciano

High and mighty, bright and airy, marked by macchia and a bit of reduction. Herbaceous for sangiovese like Loire cabernet franc and so curious this way. Crunchy and really quite fun withs sneaky structure for a really good Bellezza – different but good. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico 2023, San Casciano

The brightest star shines from San Casciano with this ray of carbonic light, admittedly with a touch of Brettanomyces but one that hides in the layers, nooks and crannies of the wine. A 2023 and oh, so very young which says the wine will be cleaned and clean itself up given enough time. This is the natural world in sangiovese and Chianti Classico so be neither surprised nor alarmed because the risk-reward is palpable and should you accept the terms the price is worth the pay. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG Vigneto Branca 2022, San Casciano

Riserva exists in a similar vein as Annata though it is chosen form the identified block known as Vigneto Branca. Let’s face it, the approach, the precocious idealism and the intention are the same. This sangiovese needs time, to settle and flesh so that the nervous notes fall into line. The natural world again approached and infiltrated is something many love to join and be a part of the unbridled fun. Still others are troubled by the naked aggression and willingness to let wines be wines. This is that, non-plussed nor deterred and unencumbered by the constraints of faculty and pedagogical education. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Conte Guicciardini Belvedere Campòli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

Work in progress which means vineyards recently updated en route to becoming vines that will produce higher quality sangiovese. Also agriculture and winemaking assimilating the movement to prepare for Chianti Classico of a much improved, inching up to higher order. This is a next step but still one of the first for an estate on the precipice to deserving much greater attention. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Solo sangiovese from “a normal vintage,” fruit from young vines not yet come into their own, aged for one year in large 25 hL French cask. Grapes are harvested at Belvedere Campòli, delivered to be processed and vinified at Castello di Poppiano and coming soon is a cellar project to the Chianti Classico property. Quite pure and yet savoury with the finest grainy structure laying below the pulpy red fruit. Missing a point of acidity to say that ripeness comes first. A factor of vintage and therefore necessity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted October 2024

Belvedere Campóli Guicciardini Campoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2020, San Casciano

Belvedere Campóli’s ownership is Guicciardini of Castello di Poppiano – Chianti Colli Fiorentini and Massi di Mandorlaia – Maremma – Morello di Scanzano. Francesco Guicciardini was an Italian historian and statesman, a contemporary and critic of Niccolò Machiavelli and considered one of the major political writers of the Italian Renaissance. The Belvedere Campóli estate dates to 1915, was abandoned after the end of the mezzadrie system and purchased by Italian historian and mathematician Niccolò Guicciardini and family in 2015. They have been restoring and replanting vineyards since 2020. From the single vineyard called Tabernocolo, set just below the large forest above and indicative of the chapel on the estate. Identifying the vineyard as the one to define Chianti Classico as Gran Selezione was paramount while the aromas and palate notes remain so perfectly consistent with both the Classico and Riserva. Steps up the concentration, the mineral and elemental aspects drawn from the Pietraforte and the cool, almost minty savour in the flavours. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Open, fragrant, savoury and of a lovely oxidative style from 2023 that brings this sangiovese to a welcome and ready place, even before it might have needed be. But it and we are happy to have it drink with such ease because sometimes Annata must be a defender against tannin and time. The 10 percent merlot demos well to soften the blows and arrows of sangiovese’s San Casciano seriousness, with thanks and praises. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

La Sala Del Torriano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Casciano

High quality fruit from La Sala’s San Casciano vines for 2022 with a mix of warmth and a cool factor that cuts comfortably through. Some imaginative red crayon and liquorice notions put this in a bit off a rigid place to say that time is the requiem for the wine to flesh into the juicy sangiovese it wants to be. Loads of potential here. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2022 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The 2022 Annata and ’21 Riserva/Gran Selezione are the first set of wines to be made strictly as 100 percent sangiovese. As a reaction to the 2021 season’s severe reduction of yields there was no Annata produced and so this is the follow-up to the previous 2020. A new age of style and quality really begins with this vintage, of such sweet Balsamico character in a Chianti Classico of equally positive acidity and simple, if fine tannins. Great length on the Annata and a pleasure to drink. Last tasted February 2025

Campione: Second vintage with oenologist Carlo Ferrini with a different process and yes the difference is immediately obvious. New tonneaux and 30 hL botti now housing the Annata, old barriques tossed out the window and the new balance is felt in the most palpable way. Rosso di Montalcino comes to mind and while that comparison may seem sanctimonious or anti-Classico, well just taste the style and level of quality. Juicy, blood orange in that regard and pretty much a finished wine. Stands up to be noticed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 Il Contadino Cusano, San Casciano

The new brand “Il Contadino Cusano” takes flight in 2021 with Riserva (and no Annata produced) because of frost-related reduced yields. An exaggeration of the local Torselli Balsamico and also really tightly wound acidity matched with equal force by grippy tannins. This is a different wine than the Torselli Riserva of the past, now with greater vibrancy and energy. At this stage the wines are made by Alessandro Campatelli with consultancy assistance by Carlo Ferrini. Something special begins and brews with ’21. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Casciano

Not atypical for 2023 with blood orange juiced sangiovese of a high and mighty if also glycerol order and the intensity of savoury-herbal-higher acid (for San Casciano) tang. Fulsome and layered by all these aspects still unsettled and needing time. There is nothing ordinary happening here, in fact this is the sort of Chianti Classico that will wake you up should you fall into a slumber. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Don Tommaso 2021, San Casciano

Don Tommaso is Gran Selezione of the ripest order, satiny and elastic, metallic and sapid. A river stone vineyard reasoning, fullness of darkening tart acidity and serious tannins from 2021. Minty cool, Amaro herbal and again serious. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

San Donato In Poggio

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Hello Riserva 2021 from Casa Emma’s important Alberese stone-strewn Vignalparco that delivers the fortune of fruit and structure to a dark red-black sangiovese moving right of centre with all its accumulated glory. All the blood orange and serum right there on display and for the taking, unfettered and ready for action. Big Riserva with a soft heart, generous, open and free. Consistency in Riserva thy name is Vignalparco. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Though extremely youthful you can do nothing but imagine the rocky soils of Casa Emma from this excitable 2021. Lighter in hue, brighter and transparent by comparison to Riserva Vignalparco – which leads to the determining element and factor for calling this a Gran Selezione a most elegant wine. So stony mineral from the quantifiable Alberese found in these San Donato in Poggio hills. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Campione: Feeling another level of concentration from Annata which tells us two things: First is that Monsanto escaped the challenges of 2023 unscathed and second that the quality of their generous quantity of fruit was exceptional. Though this is but a sample and way too early to really capitulate there is no doubt just how blood orange citrus mixed into red fruit San Donato in Poggio this sangiovese truly is. The five percent canaiolo adds some drops of tonic while the colorino brings it all forward in technicolour. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

Another Riserva of a unique set of circumstances, so floral and gauged by the stoniness of soils. Rich and unctuous, high acidity in place, fruit set up for success and tannins clearly lining the floor below. Beauty incarnate, the proviso of sangiovese perfumes returning again and again, sip after sip, promising and providinf all that we ask for. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Castello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2021, San Donato In Poggio

No shocker to find this San Donato in Poggio 2021 in a state of freshness, openness and availability without impediments, obstacles or borders. Just the fruit and a sweetness of acidity to match its ripeness stride for stride. Delicious as they say and ready to roll. Last tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Singular aromatic profile for Castello della Paneretta’s 2021 Annata, superbly perfumed if with a Ribena infiltrate cutting through the florals. More than obvious red fruit, especially citrus from the likes of blood orange and noticeable wood on the palate, Dries out and separates form the whole so be patient with this wine. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted February 2024

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Indelible stamp of Montecchio and incredible substance of fruit, darkening in the way of black cherry with nary a moment of bitterness. Adds much glycerol and unction into that fruit as much as ever from this estate. Taut acidity and fine lines with backbone as structure does its work to provide the basis for longevity. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Wow! Something so different for 2022, of dark fruit but like something out of Chambolle, silken and so bloody complex you wonder where to turn. First you must sidestep the sweet and tender volatility and once that happens there are fruit and mineral notes clashing, mingling, singing and smiling. Dio mio, man this Le Masse is a mouthful to consider. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Martina and Alberto Fabbri – Il Poggiolino

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato in Poggio

The vineyards at Il Poggiolino may reside at moderate elevations between 250 and 350m but there are no south by southwest expositions and so in a hot vintage like 2022 the freshness remains a guarantee. Just three percent colorino goes a long way to raise up character of a Classico that only sees concrete and stainless steel for aging. Sweet acids match the fruit stride for stride and what you want is what you get – A level of drinkability that represents Classico and this northwest corner of San Donato in Poggio. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021, San Donato in Poggio

A terrific vintage and yes many estates in Chianti Classico lost production to the April frost but at Il Poggiolino the maximum loss was 10 percent. And so come for the quantity and stay for the quality. Rich and concentrated, lightly chalky with a clay and stony feeling. Structure asks that we wait a year before opening the window and set this sangiovese with three percent colorino for aging through to the end of the decade. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2025

Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Le Balze 2021, San Donato in Poggio

From a north by northeast vineyard up on the hill overlooking the winery which may have been a expositional detriment 20 years ago but no longer. The change of climate puts this steep single vineyard sangiovese in great light today and so welcome to the third in a row of vintages that may just shock as to its character and quality. Le Balze 20 years ago was organized as large terraces and in Tuscany you say “le balze,” when you take a giant leap. This Gran Selezione has improved and grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years to join other greats to reside near the top of the appellative pyramid. Last tasted February 2025

Another perfumed and expressive Le Balze comes with as much if not more pulp and flesh a la mode than those San Donato in Poggio Gran Selezione that have come before. The depeche florals are Spring bloom fresh, the volume set at ideal pitch and you just need to keep putting glass to nose because, well you just can’t get enough. Richness is never compromised but it is belied by the beauty of a tannic caress about as graceful and gracious as there are. This is Il Poggiolino’s finest GS to date and that is saying a lot. “Just like a rainbow.” Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2024

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Crunchy sangiovese from Isole e Olena and the first vintage of the new era, blended and finished by the next team of winemaking. The ten percent canaiolo serves this 2022 well, striking a sapid chord to infiltrate what feels like super salty sangiovese with a decidedly lime-elemental strike. Almost piecing but the toothsome quality keeps things moving swimmingly along. The blend shifts from its original form and yet the DNA will not be denied. Genetics are strong and many years will have to pass by before the memories are forgotten. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, San Donato In Poggio

Intensity of aromas so high and mighty for 2022 but also the tang, acidity and fine grainy texture to speak for San Donato in Poggio. Few ’22 Annata are this intense and implosive with the most blood orange juicing of any in the area. Ten percent merlot or not, all the aspects of this wine are at the high end of the spectrum and time is the requiem to bring them back down to a place of comfort. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Podere La Cappella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Corbezzolo 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Going back a few years to look at the inaugural Podere La Cappella Gran Selezione, a wine that joins the appellative fray for the first time out of a high quality vintage. The artist formerly labeled as IGT was last made in 2016 and here three years later it joins the Chianti Classico pyramid’s highest distinction. More barrel than the past and therefore spice, espresso and finally structure are really in. So much so you will still have to wait on the wine to integrate. First showing and the future will surely see to greater results. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, San Donato In Poggio

Heavy Chianti Classico at this earliest of stages and one wonders why it needed to be rushed to b bottle. Nothing open or nurturing about it, so primary and hard to access. Needs to be revisited several months if not at least eight to 12 from now. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Cinciano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019, San Donato In Poggio

Still tightly wound and somewhat reductive with a skin to pulp ratio resinous effect in place. Still much to wait for and to receive from what will surely be a giving and abiding Gran Selezione that acts out a distinguished and defined San Donato in Poggio sangiovese style. Comes from relatively low elevation vineyards at 250m of medium textured soils, Alberese based, stony with some low-lying clay. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Vagliagli

Bindi Sergardi Tenuta Mocenni Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2022, Vagliagli

The times it takes for a Chianti Classico estate to perfect a formula for turning sangiovese into beauty is long and those who figure this out make wines like these. Annata from estate vineyards treated and handled with the gentlest of touch, low and slow, collated through processes that identify the vintage, tempering and refining its challenges. Presenting La Ghirlanda which expresses its own balance involving fruit, texture and weight, making use of acidity to distract from tannin and find a wine that drinks proportionally from now through to the end of its tenure. To the next decade. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG I Colli 2020, Vagliagli

Riserva of experience and layering, a of fruit and acidity intertwined, interchangeable and complimentary. One then the other taking turns at the wheel, got each others’ backs, defending from tannins coming forward sweet yet fierce. Full and substantial in most every regard but especially those parts that exemplify optimum ripeness. No lack for beauty and grace – never a doubt or question. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Mocenni ’89 2019, Vagliagli

Mocenni 89 is a special Gran Selezione, open, ethereal and generous. And it is just now entering its window of beauty with new surprise at every turn. Last tasted October 2024 and at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Tenuta Mocenni presides at one of the higher points in the Vagliagli UGA at 500m with vineyard blocks impounded with great Alberese stones and outcroppings of Galestro. The south facing amphitheater is one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive sites and sights. The latest vintage is not yet released and there is no shock how youthful and tightly wound you will find this 2019 to be. The one that follows will proudly display the UGA on the front label. More than just a few years of time in more than one kind of vessel has equipped this major potion of fruit with ample layers of structure in a Gran Selezione so bloody big, substantial and beautiful. Will most definitely require five to seven years of unwinding. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted October 2023 and February 2024

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Vagliagli

Tighter Chianti Classico than many from 2022, acids wound around fruit and less of a softening from merlot plus colorino than in some vintages past. More dried herbal savoury than the Vagliagli norm, dimming of the brightness and not quite one cast into the great wide open. Brushy and Mediterranean like Vagliagli will be. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Cantine Bonacchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2023, Vagliagli

Sweet perfume, a mix of fresh berries and Amaro, high in glycerin, quite concentrated and fully completely red, red wine. Juicy 2023, as seems to be the vintage case. Classic acidity and mild tannin make for early drinking. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2022, Vagliagli

Warmth of a vintage becomes and begets something different in Chianti Classico. The season is different than any of the last 10 and really just be looked at within the parameters of itself. There is this blood orange and red citrus feeling that can’t be shaken, incrementally different from one UGA to the next and yet consistently run through the entirety of the territory. Has there been another vintage so consistently perceived since 2014 or 2013? This wine speaks to that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2022, Vagliagli

Big-boned Novocento from Dievole put of 2022, dark of fruit and very mineral. Shows the warmth of the season in its grip after a palate that can’t help but be full and satisfy. Truly mouth-filling, sapid, not particularly high in acidity and long. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG Vigna Sessina 2021, Vagliagli

Vigna Sessina leads with its structure without apology or hesitation, of a palate attack taking hold straight away. A whole mouth of crushed rocks, very much in the way of packed and tannic Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, warming and coating in mouthfeel. So full and substantial without a moment’s softening. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, 2025

Good to go!

godello

At the Chianti Classico Collection 2025

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Twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024

Dec27

‘Tis an exercise performed year after year, a word processor’s per annum distillation to say thank you and recognize game. To consistently act as messenger, be conscious of hard work filed and to celebrate that excellence. The first list was conceived more than 10 years ago, now peaking at its current number with twenty-four mind-blowing wines chosen for 2024. Travels to fluctuating destinations mean from year to year wine regions will carry different weight and the list abides by the variance. In 2023 Bordeaux played a significant role, as did South Africa and Washington in 2022, Bourgogne in 2019, and so on. The rules of engagement never change but evolution plays its part, priorities pivot and you never can say or tell what sorts of matters will strike deep into the heart.

Last one standing (sitting and tasting) at the Chianti Classico Collection 2024

Godello needs to make a confession, shed some honesty, clear the air. He admits to a love for writing tasting notes and needing to do it, especially when a potentially mind-blowing wine is in the glass and what follows flows forth as a stream of consciousness, ending only when the creative tap closes naturally. When these notes are edited weeks or even months later there is the incredulous feeling of “how did this get written – where did these words come from?” They just did, from right out of the wellspring of creativity, but Godello does not know how he came to write those notes – as if they were magically written. Paragraphs woven from dots and thoughts for unsuspecting connections between writings and wine, such as “Ribelle è colui che si distingue.” Translated as, or better yet in reference to “the rebel is the one who recognizes the unjust law and breaks free from it,” from Ernst Jünger’s 1951 “The Rebel’s Treatise.” The German philosopher, essayist and WWII captain was once called die Burgunderszene because he watched a bombing raid in Paris while sipping Burgundy. The stylish supervillain of twentieth-century German literature’s disquisition shared dire and prophetic words on what a future world would be, in what he called the “Age of the Titans.”

Godello beneath a massive Tuscan Mazza di Tamburo/Parasol Mushroom

Or this. “The label represents the position of the vines in coordinates, echoed in the machicolations of a sangiovese that drops all the stones on unsuspecting palates through fruit openings between supporting acid corbels of a projecting tannic parapet.” Where did that come from? Or simply, “who needs fruit when you have rocks?”

ColleMassari

More than rugs tie rooms together – lyrics, song titles, movie quotes, literary passages, exchanges between a journalist and a poet, thinker, writer, actor or composer – they are all a part of the masala. Reminds of a 2021 interview with a reluctant prophet. “Try to sit down and write something like that – there’s a magic to that and it’s not Siegfried & Roy kinda magic you know, it’s a different kind of penetrating magic.” All kidding comparisons aside with Bob Dylan’s answers to Ed Bradley in that famous 60 minutes exchange, but they may just be artistic words to live by. And why Godello? “You call yourself what you want to call yourself. This is the land of the free.” As for the relevance of wine tasting notes, sure it feels like being “a wordsmith from bygone days,” but it still feels right. And necessary. And unavoidable. A bottomless pit of cultural oblivion? No, not that. Tasting notes tell stories that need to be told. Relayed by messengers fulfilling a destiny to visit and break bread with good people making great wines and in turn agreeing to relay their tales. Tasting notes are the chronicles, expressed as narrative, of anecdotes woven through prose. If there is a better way to say what needs to be said it has not yet been found.

Chianti Classico’s Cento Anni

As of today’s date and the publishing of this year-end list Godello has reviewed 4,225 wines. If the origins of said wines were to be separated into categories than the breakdown would be as follows. Thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (8) Piemonte, (6) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (14) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 24, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2024. Here are his twenty-four mind-blowing wines of 2024.

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, Vdp. Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Adega Do Vulcáo (c) entrevinhas.com

Adega Do Vulcáo Ameixâmbar 2022, Açores IG

A seriously volcanic blend of native grapes from two areas, first the ash of the Capelinhos and second the basalt of the Criaçào Velha. Add in the cold Atlantic influence and the result is something extraordinary to potentially mind-blowing. That depends on how much flint struck rock, mineral mouthfuls and deepening trajectories you may or not desire in your endemically-formulated white wines. Ameixambar is just such an animal and the profile, especially noted with verve and lashes upon the palate, is well, remarkable. Nothing else feels or tastes like this wine. Truly salty and there are notes that imagine powder created by crushing many different shells, inclusive of oyster, calm and mussel. You may ask yourself what is this, but you can answer with a simple word, or place. Açores. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2024

Inama I Palchi Grande Cuvée Foscarino Soave Classico DOC 2021

I Palchi, as in the “stages,” a geographical term for a series of wide terraces aboard Monte Foscarino lined with pergolas of old garganega vines. In this case Inama’s highest level of Soave Classico meant to celebrate the ancients. As a surname it belonged to a cleric but also Antonio Foscarini (c. 1570 in Venice – 22 April 1622), member of the Venetian nobility, ambassador to Paris, London and later sentenced to death for high treason by the Council of Ten and executed. Yikes! This Foscarino ode is intended towards grapes and volcanic terroir for a bloody incredible garganega of substance and style. The ’21’s ability to attract and engage the taster’s attention is at the top of the Soave game. Fresh, flinty and wholly engaging. Mind-blowing actually. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted December 2024

Marqués De Murrieta Capellanía Reserva Blanco 2018, Rioja DOCa

Only viura grapes are chosen from a six hectare calcareous clay plot off of 70 year-old vines located at the highest elevation of the Marqués De Murrieta Ygay Estate. The winemaking might well be working with sauvignon blanc and sémillon but with viura the ageing in French barrels takes a turn for the unexpected ethereal. The flinty smoulder is an intoxicant of the most hypnotizing order. The effect upon the palate and all the senes is extraordinary – mesmerizing. So what is Capellanía? In Spain it was a chantry or ecclesiastical endowment, one of several pious works commonly founded during the colonial period. A foundation in which certain assets are subject to the fulfillment of masses and other pious charges. Imaginatively speaking Capellanía is a rarity, monoceros, symbol of grace purity, power and transcendence. Not to mention healing powers and freedom. A unicorn. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted June 2024

Vanessa Cherruau
(c) media.ouest-france.fr

Château De Plaisance Sur La Butte 2021, Anjou AOP

A wildly aromatic two cabernet blend from the Butte de Chaume where some of the finest wines made anywhere come from Chaume, Quarts de Chaume and Savennières. The curiosity and modernist approach is made two-fold by the presence of cabernet sauvignon to stride effortlessly alongside the usual franc. Yes this smells like the Loire but the aromas deliver so much more, in curiosity and intriguing sensations. Anjou in place and temperament but in design this may as well be a contemporary, abstract or Pop Art piece by François Morellet. The two related varieties form an almost intricate geometric pattern in the way they line the palate, so cleanly drawn with mathematical clarity. Yes this is serious Loire red wine but it’s also traceable, pre-minimalist and post conceptual by design. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2024

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Domaine De Bellene Vosne Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots Bourgogne AOC 2022

In the woods as they say, “souches” or here “Suchots,” a 0.2159 hectare block in Vosne-Romanée that hangs a little longer, likely because the forest asks it to. Fresher, high spirited and savoury Bourgogne comes from the vineyard, picked on September 5th, coming away with more phenolic grip and aromatic volume because of the place. Less defined in 2022 perhaps because of a vintage’s great munificence but as far as plots in this area are concerned there are few that will speak as clearly as Les Suchots. Seamless and focused, unique as they come in an era of technical proficiency and expertise. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted August 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted September 2024

Collina Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG Sorì Serragrilli 2021, Neive

Lovely aromatic presence, richly defined fruit of purity and expressiveness, fine and open. Exotic spicing and truly floral of a perfume that keeps one from needing to rush into a sip. The palate does not disappoint in fact it carries off and forward with equal ability to hold attention for as long as a participant is willing to hang around. These are tannins as fine as the sweet and supportive acids that precede them. A really impressive Barbaresco, forthright and a test of qualities held in reserve that can be counted upon for a decade and a half more time. Drink 2026-2037. Tasted blind at Nebbiolo Prima January 2024

With Michela Morris, Nadia and Walter Fissore – Elvio Cogno

Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019, Novello

The hill within the hill, Bricco Pernice upon Ravera, isolated, insulated and encapsulated for nebbiolo of an insular and implosive intensity that’s likely unparalleled anywhere else in Novello. Closed and not because of vintage but due to time and really that’s about it A broad shouldered and muscular nebbiolo that must be given as much bottle time as it spent in cask, or double that for even better results. That means check back in 2026 or later to see if any part of the tannins have unfolded, unfurled or stretched out for some exercise. Likely not but then some parts will finally have as the decade unwinds. Also it’s normal in January for Pernice to be tight and a bit closed. Oh, by the way this was made with 100 PERCENT WHOLE BUNCH NEBBIOLO. For Barolo. Single vineyard Barolo from a storied MGA. Walter’s mid-life crisis begins right here and it’s glorious. Drink 2029-2045. Tasted January 2024

Nebbiolo Prima 2024

Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG Bricco Boschis 2010, Castiglione Falletto

A top echelon cru, a producer that gets it as well as if not better than the rest and an eponymous label out of a relationship that develops longevity without equal. That would be the thrilling isosceles trilogy of Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Bricco Boschis and Barolo. Their 2010 is as youthful as any nebbiolo of this age, striking, rising, invigorating and still working through its operations. A performance piece of varietal for landscape as the most terroir driven Barolo as any of the best in the land can be. A triangle of Castiglione Falletto that speaks in unequivocal terms, fruit, acid and tannin intertwined, five years of this life still laid out ahead, 10 further for curiosity and interest beyond. Truth. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted January 2024

Poggio Lombrone, Tenuta di Montecucco

Collemassari Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCG Poggio Lombrone 2018

I walked this vineyard only recently upon arriving to the Castello di Montecucco at the advent of a blue-lit twilight on the second Sunday in November. The impression was a captivating one, from the site, its undulating slopes casting a strong and forceful presence. Poggio Lombrone was first made in 2007 and ColleMassari’s voice was instrumental in securing the DOCG for Montecucco sangiovese. A special vineyard with older plant material than just about anywhere in Montecucco, upwards of 60 years now and THE place to promote the authenticity, but also to preserve the local savoir-faire that distinguishes Montecucco sangiovese. Longest ager in Riserva togs because of potential, a wine of località Cinigiano fermented for at least 30 days (and 45 in 2016) in open Gamba casks with daily (hand) punchdowns to realize a production of 9,000-10,000 bottles. Ages in only two or three year-old grandi botti but not in really old casks. French of a few years are ideal to seek and attain the desired elegance. The 2018 is a strong version of varietal independence off of the Lombrone hillside, upright and linear yet never found to be awkward, though it is a wine of tannic charge. Fine tannins in fact with good energetic pulse, still needing more integration, its ceiling set ultra high. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Michael Schmelzer – Monte Bernardi, Panzano

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG MB1933 2021, Panzano

From the 90 year-old vigorous vineyard and insists Michael Schmelzer, “it would be insane to make it not the way it was planted.” Ten grapes which add up to a 100 percent field blend that may include sangiovese, colorino rosso, colorino bianco, malvasia nera, canaiolo and ciliegiolo. Once again the respect to agricultural heritage and long maceration conspire for complexities and flavours that most people don’t associate with Chianti Classico. If this is what the old farmers were producing then quality was actually a thing, at least in 1933. MB is Marcello Bartolini, teacher and mentor who just retired in December 2023. Crunchy, tart, red citrus intensity and a char of herbs. Perhaps not quite a unicorn but surely one of the most singular wines made in the entirety of the Chianti Classico territory. If classic is also a thing than this would be it but what it is not is Riserva, or Gran Selezione. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted February 2024

Monsanto, San Donato in Poggio

Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1982

One of the great vintages for Chianti Classico, in all of Tuscany, most of Italy and as everyone knows, also Bordeaux. At this point the 100 percent large Slavonian cask aging is in full swing for wood with which Fabrizio Bianchi began replacing his old chestnut barrels back in the early 1970s. This would have been a bomb when it first went to bottle, so massively structured and immovable in its first 15-20 years. Possibly up until 10 years ago but is now so crunchy and giving so that all is forgiven. About as ideal as a sangiovese can be, resolved, cool and impossibly fresh. Laura feels a connection looking forward to 2015. This remains to be seen. Come back after 10 minutes and the clove can’t be missed. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted February 2024

Luca Martini di Cigala and nephew Federico

Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo 2019, Toscana IGT

The 100 percent sangiovese that lives for itself and yet Luca Martini always feels that the wine shows the truest character of the place. Percarlo holds a higher percentage of grapes grown on Tufo soil (non volcanic sediment left behind by the water that was here three to four million years ago), a soil of sandy quality and pebbles. Results in a salty quality, a mineral quotient, a stream of airy brightness within a very structured and powerful sangiovese. Great saltiness and also fruit, a minty or mirto sensation that creates a cool, salt licked feeling. There is no other wine like this. Amazing freshness incarnate. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted February 2024

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2021, Toscana IGT

As expected Le Pergole Torte expresses more volume and aromatic concentration than Montervertine mainly because its source are the oldest vines, namely the 1968 and 1972 original blocks. Twenty to 25 days of maceration with pump-overs, followed by a racking off and then a return to the concrete vats for another few months for malolactic fermentation. A year in barriques (on average 15-20 percent new) and another year in Garbellotto Slavonian cask, maximum 18 hL size. Martino Manetti is reminded of 2007, a vintage that acted closed early with the requiem of a minimum four to five years to be released from its tannic chains. And yet these days Manetti’s wines open sooner – it’s just a fact of change, maturity, growing and mapping out better sangiovese. The floral meets Macigno mineral expressiveness is present from the start yet without the intensity of 2017, nor is 2021 showy with the power of 2018. This 2021 resides right there in the balanced middle wheelhouse and should rightfully begin to give generously of itself starting in 2026. Some sangiovese are just in another league. Drink 2026-2040. Tasted May 2024

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2020

Montosoli the northerly Montalcino mound, the hill of freshness, the knoll where sangiovese gains grip, savour and elegance, where Canalicchio di Sopra’s Vigna designate Brunello from six hectares delivers approximately five into this wine. The precision and fluidity of this ’20 is just about as fine and graceful as the Ripaccioli have ever produced. Literally the juice or blood of Montosoli’s Galestro, a clay-schist flaking at the surface bleeding back down into the earth, acquired by the roots, vacuumed back up into the vines and gifted to the bunches. Sapidity is similar to 2018 and that year was cold(er) which explains how soil is such the driver, especially for Montosoli. This tastes as you might expect, concentrated, texturally full and without pause. Incredible Brunello. Poised, seemingly ready but not, looking ahead two decades, maybe more. With thanks to perfectly restrained cellar work, timing and decision making. In this moment, at least in terms of clarity, 2020 is a Montosoli vintage. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted November 2024

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2019

There are normal, standard Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, there are proper and representative examples, also exceptional versions and then there are the ones of ephemeral beauty. Fleeting in part because of their natural perfumes, scents that come from the fruiting bodies alone, mostly from the skins and yet like people there are some whose scents you never forget. Such is the case with Phenomena, a silent and measured creature of sangiovese but one that comes back to your thoughts and senses long after you are no longer in contact with the wine. Phenomena is also a Brunello of feeling, which means something ethereal, tactile and conclusive. Not seductive mind you, but suggestive and this 2019 will carry on, for some impossibly calculated infinite amount of time, as close to forever as could justifiably be imagined. Drink 2026-2038. Tasted November 2024

With Giacomo Neri

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Cerretalto 2019

The Cerretalto canyon is this singular Brunello’s origin, the place defined by Giacomo Neri as a “plintite,” of quartz, iron and magnesium elements residing next to and bleeding into the four hectare vineyard, which is incidentally a cooler località for Montalcino and very special place. Rare in the world, of an elemental-geological symbiosis found in parts of Australia, Brazil, China and here, in Montalcino. “It’s another planet” insists Giacomo Neri. You will smell blood and flint (a.k.a. gunpowder) because of the mineral personality. This is Brunello di Montalcino from sangiovese something altogether incomparable. A sangiovese wearing the terroir of a Tuscan trough on its sleeve, having spent two and a half years in tonneaux (more or less 20 percent new) and the same amount of time in bottle ahead of its much anticipated release. Yes the aromatics are concerned with trace metals and ingredients of the “canalone” of Torrenieri, but do not sleep on the purity and modernity of red to black fruit, or at least the perception brought forth because of the minerals involved. Sweetness of acidity is classic Casanova di Neri for 2020 but in Cerretalto they are near perfect and the tannins move from those noted out of Tenuta Nuova multiplied by the Giovanni Nero fineness to now enter into the arena of higher love. For the first time this estate’s Brunello di Montalcino should be given an absurd amount of time. Observing it change in the glass over 30 minutes explains much of what is needed to be known. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2024

Contrada Chiesa, Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane, Torano Nuova

Nothing else noses like this montepulciano and what is also perceived is the extreme youth of such an example. Gifts with shadowy hints and generous ideas but the sensations yet to come are manyfold, if quite possibly infinite. Fruit source just feels tops and selection so much more stringent than just about any in the appellation. Tannins are about as tight as any in all of Abruzzo and the interplay between fruit and structure is both playful but also gripped by an intensity of tension. A few sips gathers the swarthiness of the vintage but time will elasticize and disperse the parts. The potential here is great and if this is not looked upon as a top vintage today there will be times over the next 25 years where that opinion is challenged. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted March 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035. Tasted May 2024

Vineyards in Ulmo

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Coonawarra, South Australia

From vines planted in 1994 and 1996 right there where it matters within Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip. The Menzies, as in the name of the estate where the Hill-Smith family saw the future back in 1992, there on a flat plain, approximately 70 km from the coast. The cooling Bonney upwelling is an influence and the red soil is, well everything. That said 2017 was a wet and cool season by Coonawarra standards and harvest required many passes over a 10-day period in April. Climate being what climate has become translates as a special cabernet sauvignon because the cool factor, for gelid fruit and sweet savour, not to mention more complex notions of herbs, spices and seasoning than you could seemingly fit into one bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Complexity be glory, as they say and the rest will be history. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted October 2024

Good to go!

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Etna Days are here to stay

Dec6

Versante Nord, L’Etna

As an event Etna Days may only be four years in the making, but it is a great one. That it falls in the second week of September is a thing of brilliance, with weather warm and nurturing, grapes continuing to hang on the vines, the harvest on producers’ minds and yet still far enough away. The setting is spectacular, with ancient lava flows all-around, signs of new ones spewing from craters above 3,000 metres, vineyards marked by stone terraces and walls, century vines thriving here, there and everywhere. No two blocks look the same with each producing a unique Etna Bianco or Rosso. Confidence and morale feel to be at an all time high.

The Sommeliers of Etna Days

Never mind the challenges of 2023, including a May 3rd hailstorm, some but far from devastating presence of the Perenospera (mildew) virus and lower vine yields. What will follow the lower quantity and high quality of 2023 will by now have been the promise of a brilliant 2024 harvest. The Etna DOC Consortium suggests that the latest rains after the hot and dry summer have slowed down the ripening process, thereby helping to enhance phenolic and aromatic components. Slower and more gradual maturation proved to be decisive in terms of improvements in quantity and quality. The Consortium estimates a harvest of around 80,000 quintals (about 35/40% white grapes and the remainder red) and a likely production potential of more than 55,000 hectolitres. In terms of volume, the harvest is expected to be up by around 60 percent compared to 2023.

La Gelsomina Di Colombo

There is no understanding of modern Etna without a proper historical base and that begins with the ancient, but also more recent visualization of the Palmento. In some cases outdoor stone remains can be seen, including that of the 1300 year-old Palmento at Rupestre in Pietramarina, Castiglione di Sicilia. It was excavated out of one rock, a vasca carved from the sandstone, a lagares for treading on grapes used by the Sicel peoples, early settlers in eastern Sicily. The island is littered with archeological sites that prove the existence of winemaking going back three thousand years but on L’Etna it is the presence of restored stone buildings where, with the use of gravity, grapes would have been collected and fermented into wine. At Palmento Costanzo the buildings that housed the original wine making were restored in 2015 and finished in 2019. The technology is new but the gravity fed Palmento abides by the old ways.

Alberello planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis at Palmento Costanzo, Contrada Santa Spririto

For centuries I Catanesi would have come up the mountain to purchase in bulk where necessitous viticulture was born in harmony but also with respect to the landscape. In the 19th century approximately 100 million litres of wine was produced on Mount Etna, all from the various Palmenti. Wine born of a place with an active volcano rising above vineyards at 3,300m of elevation, a climate unlike anywhere else on Sicily and a terroir aboard geology conceived from hundreds of various lava flows throughout the course of its history. The differences in biodiversity from block to block, contrada to contrada and village to village are evident in the multifarious plant life growing on the extant slopes of the volcano.

Consorzio President Francesco Cambria

The various lava flows, each with a unique set of stone in chronological stages of degradation, from the hardest lava rock through gravels and into sand are all characterized by a distinct set of weathered minerals and elements contained within. How each corridor and at what elevation affects the endemic grape varieties is a great mystery and so many of us will spend a lifetime trying to make some sense of the how and why. The Etnaese carricante, white and red minnella, nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio are children raised and nurtured by the slope, elevation and geological make-up that is their home on the mountain.

Etna Days Rosso

Whether by Alberello or modern day Guyot or Cordone Speronato training it is the age and disintegration of soil that seems to be the greatest influencer on their outcomes. Serena Costanzo talks of the innovative pruning method of Simon & Sirsch, of which “the principle rule is ramification – build a chronology of live wood; first year, second year, third year and so on” with a method that does not interrupt the lymphatic system. They remind that “a vine is not a tree, but a liana” and that “pruning, which is and remains a mutilating technical act for the plant, causes consequences within the plant…a rethinking of pruning, so that it was more respectful of the physiology of the plant.” There are ramifications, the necessity of continuance for sap flow, to make small cuts and hold a respect for the wood. They have observed “how the application of a dynamic and physiological pruning of the plant promote an increase in living wood over the years, with a consequent intact and efficient lymphatic system.” Their most essential reminder is that “there is no good or bad pruner but there is a trained and an untrained pruner. The Simon & Sirsch system “is a way to combat climate change,” says Serena, “especially during periods of extreme heat.” Nerello Mascalese trained by Alberello and planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis works opposite to traditional rows and is Palmento Costanzo’s way of maximizing root structure and efficiency.

With John Szabo M.S. and Consorzio Director Maurizio Lunetta

It bears reminding that L’Etna is a an active volcano and so what spews out and forth from its craters will constantly affect viticulture. The new settling of wind-carried ashes and lapilli are perpetually adding new layers to old soils which in turn induces innate revisions and so from vintage to vintage Etna’s wines are always in flux, forever subjugated to constant change. One only needs to have tasted the last few vintages of the Etna Bianco Superiore from the village of Milo to intuit just how significant an effect these wind-blown fragments have had on the wines. They have never been more intriguing, exciting and frankly better. Studies of these eastern Etna soils in a cooler micro-zone show significant levels of silica, iron, magnesium and potassium in the soils, combining to gift the Bianco with much to digest.

Related – All the wines of Sicily

That is the past and from the start of the First World War through to the 1970s and 1980s the wine business aboard L’Etna fell away to pieces. It’s resurrection is but 30 years in the making and the transformation of the past 10-plus years is nothing short of remarkable. The oenologist, farmer and cellar dweller will say that the use of Palmenti and the Alberello are key to restoring dignity, faith in humanity and the true essence of what it means to produce Etna wines. Consorzio President Francesco Cambria will say that the most important project is to see the passage of the denomination transform from the Italian DOC to DOCG. These are all matters to consider and get behind, for some it’s about the heart and for others the reality of business and therefore life.

Carlo Flamini, Maurizio Lunetta, Luigi Moio, Bertrand Gauvrit and Francesco Cambria

Etna Days is an exceptionally well run and seamlessly orchestrated event with thanks to the teams involved. Consorzio Etna DOC’s Presidente Francesco Cambria, Direttore Maurizio Lunetta and Segreteria di Direzione Sarolta Stella Osvath. The team at Ispropress with Angiolino Lonardi, Bernardetta Lonardi, Simone Velasco, Sara Faroni, Marina Catenacci, Marta De Carli and Eleonora Alberti Cermison. The third edition of the 2024 Etna Days congress assembled for the first morning’s welcome with expanded perspectives and analyses of international dimension. Cambria and Lunetta hosted speeches by Carlo Flamini (Head of the Italian Wine Union Observatory), Bertrand Gauvrit (General Director of the Association des Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne) and Luigi Moio (President of the International Organization of Vine and Wine). Sommelier assisted technical tastings, walk around chats with the producers and touring visits at estates all combined to deliver a profound sense of modern day Etna. High-level discussions were had on location with Tenuta delle Terre Nere’s Marc de Grazia, Benanti’s Salvino Benanti, Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa’s Pietro Giovanni, Rupestre and Terre Darrigo’s Rosario Raciti, Palmento Costanzo’s Valeria and Serena Costanzo, Quantico’s Giovanni Raiti, Tascante’s Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia and Planeta’s Patricia Tóth. For his part Godello made tasting notes on 150-plus wines. These are his reviews.

Etna Spumante DOC and Terre Siciliane IGT

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse Brut Carricante Método Classico 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Twenty years into the (traditional method) sparkling wine program with help from a northern (Suditrol) sparkling wine company, 24 months on lees. Brut which here means 4-5 g/L of residual sugar, more than relatively dry with carricante. Reductive, high energy, tight and immovably youthful. Dried herbs, fennel, brushy and dusty savour. Acidity is quite fine, balance is struck and the lees aging time spot on for this widely appealing yet serious sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse XLVIII Brut Carricante Método Classico 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

The Noblesse was named because Giuseppe Benanti saw himself as identifying with high level French sparkling wines and this next tier rise sees the wine remain on lees for 48 months. Similar RS (below 5 g/L) but the extra time brings quite a factor of autolysis as a by-product of time. Yeast-bready in just the correct way, harmony struck between the autolytic notes and acidity yet with a higher pH and lower acid profile. Quite a different expression of carricante as sparkling while co-existing within the same Benanti family. Both wines feel like they really carry a purpose, including for what sector of the market they are looking to make their appeal. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Lamorèmio Brut Rosé Método Classico 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Like the Noblesse Brut this sees 24 months on the lees with nerello mascalese as a Rosato which comes away feigning sweetness more than the carricante, even though the sugar (at 5-ish g/L) is just about the same. Acid structure carries the sweetness and the weight, length is good and this is surely the more all-around style taht offers wide ranging appeal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut Librato 2020

Made with just a small part of nerello mascalese from Contrada Muscamento for a total blanc de noir production of 500 bottles. Livrato is poetry, in ode to Michaela Luca’s mother who was an avid reader. Base wines are kept on lees with bâttonage and the wine also spends 30 months on the gross lees. High energy, sharp, pointed and full on tang, enough freshness but also some weight to be sure. Citrus makes a statement and without any dosage there should be a piercing effect but that’s simply not the case. Quite impressive sparkling for L’Etna. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Rosé Método Classico 2021

Lightest Rosato hue, in part because the Gelsomina style is all about clarity and freshness, as far away as possible from oxidation and especially autolysis. No brioche or yeast derivative aromas, just red fruit, primary and juicy. The lees aging time is minimum 36 months but the winemaking does everything possible to stay reductive and with minimum contacts or stagnancies. Rosato is a step more complex than Blanc de Noir if not quite as energetic. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Blanc de Noir Método Classico 2021

When Etna DOC added Spumante to the disciplinare 10 years ago Gelsomina (partner of Tenute Orestiadi) was ready and was amongst the first to bottle under the allowable labelling. The blend is 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio, minimum 36 months on the lees. Brut at six g/L of residual sugar. Good thing the acidity is captured and kept because there is no shortage of flesh, fruit ripeness and creamy texture. Clean, fresh, accessible and well made. The choice is clear, to avoid autolytic notes and so the yeasty and bready style is for someone else. A Gelsomina is the exact opposite. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut

A 24 months on lees traditional method sparkling wine, disgorged in February 2024, Brut style. Feeling like 5-6 g/L of residual sugar, tart and ably if typically carricante. Fine bubble, tight and sure with a botanical component. Clean and just feels right with a cheese plate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Etna Rosato DOC

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosato DOC Lunabuona 2022

In 2022 Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti chose to invest in a small 1960 planted vineyard at 680m on the North slope of L’Etna in the village is Rovittello, a suburb of Castiglione di Sicilia in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo. Their Rosato is 90 percent nerello mascalese with (10 combined) minella nera and bianca. A unique Rosé, equal parts salinity an sapidity which essentially translates to 100 percent volcanic. This is currently their largest volume sku at 1,600 bottles and with the extra year of aging it drinks beautifully, at peak and with grace today. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

From Rosso vineyards, looking for freshness and very little sugar but also low alcohol. Only steel, three months, bottled in February. Rich of fruit, salty, crunchy and for Rosato also complex. Tons of flavour, strawberry and some leafy savour. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May and September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Energy noted straight away, a carbonic nerello mascalese buzz that drives Rosato to stand up and be noticed. Comes right at the senses, aromatically floral and palate treble tremble to pique interest and taste sensations. Full fruit and mineral working together for flavour and character. That’s what it’s all about . Last tasted September 2024

Equally fruity and vegetal, of red berries and peppers, a tartness and also lactic cheese note. Herbal as well and so complexity as Rosato if on the acquired taste side of style. Crunchy and salty, briny to a degree, naturally wild and free. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosato DOC 2023

So similar to the Terre Darrigo Rosato made by Rosario Raciti with 100 percent nerello mascalese fermented and simply allowed to go from vine to glass. The difference is location and terroir. What does that mean? Contrada Pietramarina fruit, salinity and acidity, grip and tension. Otherwise just the Rosato and mascalese facts. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosato DOC Tefra 2022

Aptly labeled “Vigne Custodite dalla Famiglia Tasca d’Almerita,” a statement to make sure we understand these nerello mascalese grapes are estate grown. Aromatic varietal volume, energy and spirit run high, yet most notable are the wealth and depth of flavours. Cherry moving into strawberry with a basic phenolic presence and that is very much all you want and need. Not a high acid Rosato, nor was that the intention. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosato DOC 2020

Only nerello mascalese from the lower and most vigorous part of the vineyard and grapes are chosen specifically for the Rosato. No wood like the white, once again to preserve the volcano’s effect on the wine, which is essential and when Rosato is made like this, also profound. This is a specific kind of salty, to Bosco’s vineyard and the mascalese that grows. Just three hours or less skin contact, quick maceration, no thought to colour, as with every wine in this portfolio, the place on Versante Nord is the heart of each and every matter. Already two years old, evolving very slowly and there is no reason to think it will not continue this way for another two or three more. Tranquility but also energy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Only nerello mascalese as per the norm for Etna Rosato DOC and another salty little number with satisfying juiciness and grip. Direct, unadorned, almost no barrel, perhaps just a few percent. Straight fermentation, let it sit and ride. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

With Alberto Graci, Giuseppe Russo and John Szabo M.S.

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Nice and smoky Etna Bianco from Alta Mora though the fruit is equally adamant about gaining your trust. The smoulder equalized by the pulpy flesh of fresh bites into orchard fruit and a touch of finishing spice. Not the most complex but surely robust for the category. Last tasted May and September 2024

Solid and well made Etna Bianco in the ways of respect and tradition, ample, fulsome, substantial and structured for a wine that will drink well three-plus years forward. Citrus mainly, both lemon and lime, cool, not quite minty but surely like fresh summer basil and then a pinch of salt at the finish. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Bianco DOC Petralava 2023

Soda and neutral fruit intro which is par for the Etna Bianco course and certainly not unexpected. In other words mineral led, volcanic obviously and yet cool, gelid, mildly if sweetly botanical. A shot in the dark, unexpected and how can you not be thankful for a wine of this stature you knew nothing about. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Outis 2022

Fruit up front but in a botanical way, less basaltic mineral salty and more sapid as a result. Still it carries a set of elements that conceptualize the Bianco, however the peachiness and sweet preserved citrus set this one up to be a mellow sort of affair. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Chianta 2021

A more important label for Biondi and therefore aged an extra year ahead of release. Chianta the top Bianco cru and clearly a matter of longer maceration magnified by the extra aging. Not only noticed in hue but that natural salve texture settling while also dissolving nicely on the palate. A more interesting and satisfying iteration to speak credibly for the winemaking intent and also a matter of style. Then some crispiness and crunch to speak for captured and persistent freshness. Fine work. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Sweetly aromatic waft in a memory of cotton candy at the fair sort of way. Palate tells another story, truly lemony and in a current one-dimensional phase. The carricante has gone into slumber, which is unsurprising and so best not to touch any bottles until the Spring of 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Reserved, not reductive but neither open nor gregarious. A smoulder of volcanics and wood aging, just an aromatic wisp of flint and notable verdancy. The greens are also driven by the place and Cavaliere gives in just this way. Low, slow and with a time lapse release of controlled power. Really quite remarkable Etna Bianco from this contrada. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Calderara vineyards are 40-45 years of age and the harvest happens a week later, in the second week of October. Cement and large casks, 60-40, 10-12 months, brought back together and bottled. Saltier than the Bianco because the vineyard is so full of lava stone, a 100-plus year old eruption with brown basaltic stone. Very focused and precise though more power than 2021. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Sul Vulcano 2021

Quite a taut and wound Etna Bianco, not unusual for the vintage and though anything but lean – my this is tight. Mountain white in every respect and one of the finest if also precise Bianci ever produced at Donnafugata. Exemplary for the DOC, speaking to the mineral slats, elements and ways but also reasons for how lava flows have affected what will happen to vines farmed with industrious respect. Frames Etna Bianco in a serious if surely satisfying way. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco DOC Gamma 2021

Gamma is more aromatic than most with its mix of candied and floral but also spicy and so nasturtium or marigold are considered. The transitions are bold if seamless and the next stage is where things really take a turn to excitement. Moving away from the tight reduction and into bold flavours, variegated and layered, of fruit but of course minerals and elements that deduce then decide what an Etna Bianco is all about. Crisp, crunchy, biting and lengthy, all decidedly essential attributes of a rebel Bianco. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Zottorinotto, Balza Delle Poiane 2022

Some reduction from a specific cru and designation, that being Cavanera Balza delle Poiane within the northerly contrada of Zottorinotto. Herbal as well, fresh sprung spring glade of ferns and wild allium, trillium and the local Ginestra. Plenty of substantial fruit and truthfully so much going on. As far as Etna Bianco is concerned this should be considered a big wine, the kind that can be enjoyed by lovers of full-bodied chardonnay. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco DOC Muscamento 2022

Purchased the palmento in 2006, fully restored and what Michaela Luca calls “a very romantic place.” A Bianco called “Muscamento” (due to labelling bureaucracy) from the Contrada “Moscamento” at 650m on the northeast part of L’Etna. Just three hectares and 8,000-9,000 total production with this being the single-vineyard label. A blend, of 60 percent carricante and (40) catarratto. As floral as it gets for Etna Bianco with honeysuckle and ginger root. Lemon and lime flavours, clean, fresh and truly amenable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The work of Barolo’s Davide Rosso who came to L’Etna in 2016. Straightforward Bianco, neither predictive nor oxidative, tight or loose but somewhere comfortably in between. Goldilocks, between hard and soft, fruit and mineral, an equality of both. Solid, unassuming and yet perfectly representative Etna Bianco. Wood spirit and spice is felt on the back end. Rosso may need to make Bianco for 10 years before greatness arrives. His past work with chardonnay in Bourgogne can only serve to speed up the understanding of carricante. Would not put it past him to get there even sooner. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Only Nerina, San Lorenzo and Feudo were made in 2023 due to a challenge from rain, mildew and less fruit availability. No worries about quality however and Nerina is about as full pulp-fleshy and developed as it has ever been. The acids travel up and down the sides of the palate in the ways of striking Etna Bianco and here Russo finds the road back, each and every time. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

New Bianco for Giuseppe Russo, a selection of 100 percent carricante from three hectares within the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard and contrada. Feudo is not San Lorenzo but it is something remarkable in its own right. More botanical and phenolic but also a level of citrus preserve not noted anywhere but Feudo. Crazy level of implosive citric intensity and taut character. The behaviour is so different to San Lorenzo with flavours that mean business in the most impressive way imaginable. Intensity off the charts, concentration so impressive, energy that builds and builds. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

“A wine of mystery,” says Alberto Graci, “very intriguing for me.” Flinty and scrubby at the same time, energy and vibrancy laying in waiting, a buzz behind the curtain and a soil purposed into the 100 percent carricante that Graci’s team and now also we know the wine will want to explode with flavours a year, or more rightly two from now. So tight but you can feel it, the linear nature looking ahead and time will bring about something social form that mystery. Unquestionably one of L’Etna’s finest ’22s. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A mix of all four contradas; Muganazzi, Arcurìa, Feudo di Mezzo and Santo Spirito. A mix of Mediterranean scrub and vibrancy, looking for that balance between and finding it. Really fine precision and salinity, length is outstanding for villages level Bianco. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Fruit is drawn from the steepest of slopes surrounding the pond within an amphitheatre that is an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. Tiny micro-climate within the 15 hectares of the estate, mainly carricante (80 percent) with a smaller portion of cattaratto, neutral and primary when this young, needing time to find its expression. Again the clarity and freshness are proper but the neutrality makes it hard to see where this will go and what it will become. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2022

The 80 percent carricante with (20) cattaratto grows on the steepest of slopes within the estate’s amphitheatre in surround of a natural pond that are all part an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. A small micro-climate inside of 15 hectares for a Bianco fruit forward and when young, so easy to drink. Unsurprising to find this perfectly clean, fresh and direct, a matter of just five months in stainless steel. Perfect for the many and the willing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Sweet aromatic perfumes, candied florals and white peach per se, a preserved lemon edging to limoncello. Lemony flavours, fine, simple and preparative to set the Bianco up for a modicum of representative success. Good and plenty but not quite exciting, complex or wholly substantial. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Serena and Valeria Costanzo – Palmento Costanzo

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

A cuvée of all parcels from different contrade, including the homefront Santo Spirito, along with Cavaliere. On average 90 percent carricante with (10) catarratto. Only raised in stainless steel, persistently fresh and if any region in the world might be compared with it would be Chablis AOC, direct, salty, smart and widely purposed. Last tasted September 2024

Just have to say wow because Bianco di Sei comes equipped with a level of intensity that was not quite expected from 2022. Not so much a volume or an explosion aromatically speaking but an extreme set of eccentricities that crash aboard the palate. Likely needing some rest and down time to integrate because the level of extract here (including volcanic activity) is simply off the charts. Etna incarnate, pointed and exciting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

High level aromatic volume and concentration from Santo Spirito ’22 and we know right away that this wine knows exactly who it is, where it comes from and where it wants to go. Volcanic salts are also present on the nose from a Bianco of great stage presence and such a smart textural weave that gains every bit of the palate’s confidence. The connection is prescient, reaction calming and conclusion poignant. This is how you make and present Contrada-specific Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, lighter brown for Santo Spirito, from the contrada vineyard at 700m on the northern slope that comprises one out of three “islands within the island” of L’Etna. Still just an infant, implosive and insular, wound so tight, yet to explode. Give this another year, just as the first taste had indicated for months prior. Last tasted September 2024

A fine vintage and and even finer Contrada, that being Santo Spirito where carricante (and 10 percent cattarrato) are given every soil, geological and micro-climatic advantage. There is an accumulation of ripeness and stone cool mineral groove from location and acumen that make this move with incremental ability. It will slowly define itself over along period of time that will be fascinating to watch every step of the way. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, darker brown for Cavaliere, from the contrada vineyard at 700m in the southwest “island” of L’Etna. A different expression to that of Santo Spirito, volumetric in terms of aromatics and less austere or rather locked tight. Here more sapid and botanical, less basaltic salinity and fleshier early on. More fruit forward, pulpy stone fruit like, amenability run higher and the Contrada-designate Bianco to drink while waiting for Santo Spirito to mature. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Bianco DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2022

From Contrada Marchesa near Solicchiata at 750m, a property through Pietro Giovanni’s father-in-law with vines around 100 years old, of the passion and at the heart of the contrada. As unique as it gets for Etna Bianco, 100 percent carricante, ripe yet certainly not honeyed and wood a driver with a white cocoa note that alters perception at a certain level. Some savour as well, brushy style, curious and raising the overall levels of interest. The flavours and textures combine for substantial, if also layered appeal. This may turn secondary sooner rather than later but the level of intersecting interest should only increase. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

Archinieri comes at us with that Pietradolce mix of confidence and generosity because well, vineyards and expertise. A Bianco that must be great because the makers demand top quality from field to table and all the markers here are present, defined and accounted for. Ideal reasoning, seasoning and style. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Taccione 2022

A singular Bianco labeled within Contrada Taccione for Planeta’s cantina located in Feudo di Mezzo and when you are the sole (known) contributor you make, transmit and valourize the rules. Pulp, acumen and circumstance establish and disperse layers of lava-fueled feelings, initiate discourse and bring about results to say this is Etna Bianco of balance and mountain reform. Not the acid intensity of some, nor the flowery pot gratuity of others. Nor does it reside indiscriminately or disinterestedly in between – no it makes a great pronouncement of elevation, mountain experience and intention. Exceptional Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Quantico Etna Bianco DOC 2018

A few years have passed but my how this 2018 has hung onto its freshness despite some skin contact involved in the early process. Maturity is recognized in the platinum gold hue, subtle caramelization and next level developing complexities. May not keep for several years more but at nearly six years of age it is special. Last tasted September 2024

Just two years older than the ’20 and a marked difference, especially in aromatics. Much warmer year but the exotica and tropical fruit really stand out in this 2018. Cherry blossom, lime cordial and a litchi or longan effect, almost feeling boozy but the alcohol (at 13 percent) is the same as 2020. That said the palate is much more similar, less advanced and feeling fresher. Lots of fruit here, full of energy with a long lasting impression. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Rupestre Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The private label of Terre Darrigo winemaker Rosario Raciti grown in the Contrada of Pietramarina and vinified in the company’s cantina. Only carricante and an old lava flow location with 14 year-old vines planted by Rosario’s father. A unique saltiness and mineral intensity clearly attributed to the contrada despite the young age of the vines. Lean, direct and pointed, sharp and just the beginning of the story. Only 8,000 bottles in 2023. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Buonora 2023

Only carricante and just has that look of a wine you expect to be extremely cold when it’s really a matter of a strong, sweetly phenolic presence. Herbal, like basil granita and a different sort of salinity owing to the specificity of Tascante’s Pianodario gravelly volcanic sands. Also owing to harvest time after a most challenging vintage which gave smaller, more concentrated berries with high skin to pulp ratios. Sees only stainless steel, for good reason and the effect triples down on this Bianco’s style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2022

Vinified and aged in Slavonian Grandi Botti, “to preserve the verticality and freshness of the carricante” explains Tasca d’Almerita agronomist Michele Brusaferri. Plays hard to get and acts demure inside the halls of its aromatic silence but you know that the elevation and fine basaltic soil are the portents of Tascante’s main Contrada Sciaranuova that will see to conditions for change. Though soft you feel the wood, present with confidence yet the thread of cool, herbal and botanical rins from Buonora into this Bianco. Fruit will soon peek through and announce a scintillant’s arrival, blossoms too, namely orange and then to salty lime later on. Just takes some air, agitation and swirl to coax out the excitement and up into the stratosphere. Turns out to be crunchy and seriously salty Etna Bianco, like flakes of Maldon or Slovenian platinum for what can best be described as living the high seasoned life of Etna Bianco. Structure is there and so this should age quite well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2016

The 2016 carricante takes the ’22 tasted alongside to another extreme. Now a return to a full blown aromatically romanticized effect with honey, orange blossom, sweet concentrated herbs, then into a downy, mature and creamy softness. Curious if well past prime with no good reason to complain about a Bianco conceived during its earlier stages of experimentation and understanding. You can tell the first two to three years would have had no problem convincing of greatness within the style it was made. Tasted September 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The Santo Spirito area has traditionally been devoted to Rosso and so grapes need to be brought in to make the Etna Bianco. Not 100 percent carricante yet the single contrada whites are. Remember that old vineyards would house five to seven percent white grapes and so here 20-30 percent would include minella, cattaratto, inzolia and grecanico. There is a gelid solidity to the texture and structure, inclusive of the white grapes hand-plucked out of the red vineyards. Makes for a complicated yet complex cuvée, not about parochial purity but instead an assemblage that speaks to bio and varietal diversity. There is notable extract and even some tannin involved for a Bianco you would want to drink every single day. With thanks to salinity that does the work from acidity. If only there were more of 2023, but such is the nature of farming in adversarial vintages. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Calderara Sottana 2023

“Such a stunning vineyard that I believe will actually improve the Calderara,” says Marc de Grazia. Where Bianco can help to elevate the Rosso by association and osmosis. A carricante with more volume and depth than the wines from the south and east of L’Etna but we know many will not only appreciate but also prefer the style of those Bianci grown in warmer areas. As such the Calderara Sottana sees barrel fermentation, in 350L tonneaux and 10 hL foudres. Now we are getting into a Bourgogne comparison, Meursault first and foremost though some will consider Premier Cru, Right bank Chablis, Fourneaux coming to mind more than most. In the end all that matters is finding the sweet spot in every vintage to express place, in terms of wood size, time and methodology used. We can be reminded that Dibourdieu is a big influence on de Grazia, for whatever that is worth. “If you don’t have a compass it’s not sailing, it’s what Dibourdieu called vagabondage. You need to have an idea of the answer you’re looking for.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Montalto 2023

Montalto, “high mountain,” a 950m plot on L’Etna’s southern slope. Another Bianco that does not like being fermented in wood and so steel only aids and abets to maintain carricante purity. For the first time a Terre Nere white just feels truly salty, mineral extraction expressed through Bianco, as opposed to elemental sapidity. “You have to go higher as the heat increases,” says Marc de Grazia, “to extract perfumes and find acidity.” There is a savoury honeyed aspect that reminds of chenin blanc and the length is determined by old vines. Silex again which takes a mind to Loire more than Chablis. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2022

Reductive in a most protective, protractive and progressive way because the burst of citrus screamed forth is seriously intensive. Well yes but it would behoove one to think in terms of elements and minerals over more than merely fruit. Wild and frantic even, excitability factor run off the charts and the palate, not to mention spirit seriously awakened. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Rosso DOC d’Aetna 2023

Presumably a mix of of Blandano and Praino, which incidentally seem to be siblings from two different mothers and so the deAetna label is a blend in two-parts. More Praino is would seem, gelid and cool, a lemon-yellow plum granita of an Etna Bianco. Fine and solid enough though quite generalized as a local, eastern side of Etna expression. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

A few years now in bottle and so this 2019 has developed next level style, further character and stage presence. Honeyed and luxe, acids sweetened with a lively if sour edge and then comes that extract that urged the totality from the start. A fine and confident wine with time on its side and a healthy perspective for Etna Bianco as the kind to serve at dinners and tastings all over the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A stone’s throw down the mountain is Lingualossa, of a terroir above 500 and upwards to 600m in a natural amphitheatre taken over by the Bacci family from a bankrupt farm and in disrepair. Restored to a beautifully rustic terraced set of vineyards set between the volcano and the sea. Salty carricante indeed with phenolic grip and yet acidity keeps the drive alive. So little was made because of a hailstorm in the first week of May that took out most of the vines even before rains and Perenospera mildew arrived to attack much of Etna’s northern vineyards. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Theresa Eccher Etna Bianco DOC Alizée 2021

As per the vintage and an estate taking full advantage this is quite ripe and open-knit Etna Bianco, simplified and moving forward into maturity with haste. Comes away with a bit of bitterness and honeyed savour but otherwise drinks well enough. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Tornatore has simply, unequivocally and decidedly defined the genre that is Etna Bianco for world markets at an affordable price. The 2023 vintage was not so easy to do this way because mildew pressure and low yields were the obstacle. And yet like so many the acids are intense to insure true Etna mountain spirit is elevated as it needs be. This does precisely what wants and needs for a $25-30 Bianco. All must partake and become believers in what is possible. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Pietrarizzo is both available and confident, not idiosyncratic like Zottorinotto and also richer of fruit. There is an herbal and botanical way about this cru Bianco with splashes of catarratto bringing seasoning to the carricante. A bit spicy and even humid though the fruit is the thing and the volcanics an accent making for even more spice entertained. Such a solid Contrada based Bianco. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted and September 2024

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

An Etna Bianco on the extreme volcanic side because the aromas and flavours just feel like sucking on a mouthful of basaltic lozenges. Cool, gelid and distinctly mineral on the outside, liquid ethereal and almost mentholated within. Don’t come looking for a burst of fruit, not by citrus, stone nor orchard though there is this green melon note coming late. Nor is this a high acid example, but also not so very botanical. Just bloody volcanic – which speaks to Chiuse Vidalba. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Part of the production is from a vineyard located outside of the allowable (if arbitrarily and self-serving organization of geographic definition) for the DOC regulations. Yet the fruit from these 40 year-old carricante vines are special to Carmelo Vecchio. His is a true to real volcanic life skin-contact Bianco without the slings, constraints and arrows of pedagogical natural wine. Just the methodological facts to capture, elevate and celebrate the purity of grape variety come from where it lives. A well made example is a thing of beauty and in this case, a premise of perfection. Sapidity wins out over salinity and yet your palate may figure to feel more of the latter. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Tasted side by side with the 2022 (and also 2016) but here the extra year on a skin contact carricante solicits the first stage of age development. Just on the nose really, quite honeyed with a Ginestra savoury spice and a vague saffron note considered. More so honeysuckle when you combine the two and so there feels like a connection, re-imaging or re-imagining of chenin blanc. Palate presence lingers and length is befitting of ’22. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Piè Franco Carricante – Terre Darrigo

Etna Bianco Superiore

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2023

Aromatic volume is turned up through the combination of vintage and Superiore designation which both repeats and magnifies the great fleshy chew for the accessorized palate. Some greens here though they are sweet to commit and then induce satisfaction. Also a great basaltic saltiness that causes this Bianco to linger long after you thought it might not and you are extremely grateful for the extension. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Villagrande 2021

Just two years older than the ’23 Superiore (classico) and here the Contrada-specific Etna Bianco maintains freshness while defending the integrity of its municipal steading. This is a reduced volcanic saltiness but even more so it speaks to being a mountain wine in the most credible of ways. Rich and expressive, so finely tart and just so very impressive. Stays with your palate for minutes on end and for that you say brava. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Salvino Benanti – Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Pietramarina 2019

A current release which follows the Benanti rule of waiting four-plus years. Only stainless and already hinting at aromatic volume but also length, with petrol coming around the corner. Kind of in the vein of say riesling but even more so sémillon and more Hunter Valley than Bordeaux in that regard. Acidity is obviously lower and phenolics broader – but you get the drift. Will gain curiosity, if at the expense of freshness but that feels like the Superiore point. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2022

Important if also essential mountain label for Calcagno in Superiore clothing and ’22 shines brightly, even if this is not the summit of summits as far as vintage is concerned. No conceding or submissive behaviour mind you and instead great spirit, energy and vitality. Crisp bites of orchard fruit doused under lemon-lime citrus for real spark. A scintillant Etna Bianco with some fine chiseling and structured for aging. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Kudos 2021

Kudos is far more botanical than that of Gamma, of green herbs and some herbaceous meanderings. More tonic and fine bitters though truthfully lemon in so many ways with some pith and it tastes like roasted Greek lemon potatoes. A second bottle seems to ramp up the intensity though things stay relatively the same. Superiore is a different animal and it feels like Curtaz has gone a bit more pied du cuve natural in the approach. Surely not an accidental wine and the jury stays out, not hung, but not making a final decision. Will do so after tasting another bottle, preferably sooner rather than later. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Rocca d’Alba 2022

First kick at the Fischetti can and it must be said where have these wines been in this life? In others’ glasses and now here for a look at possible grandezza. Big attempt at extraction, squeezing every bit of 100 percent carricante juice which means tomato leaf and water, but also acetic belief. Old wood is very present and leads the feels for a rustic Bianco that may not exactly find precision, nor finesse neither, but its character is built from soil, soil, soil. The earth is all in and it translates with the aforementioned acetic tang. Just 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted twice, September 2024

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Varietal carricante at 800m fermented in steel, put to barrel and then one year in bottle. So much corporeal flesh on the body of a seriously developed Bianco. Has come into a fine place but my goodness so much texture, citrus and length. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2023

Youthful is the understatement and Volpare the name, so say it loud. This is indeed singular Etna Bianco, as they should be but some are in a league of their own, as Mugeri’s eastern wines clearly are. The estate has taken it to the next level with an ascension of elevated mountain fortuity but also depth determined by terroir which can only be transmitted when agriculture abides. Abides because the maker makes it happen and Volpare delivers generously while also with precision and finesse. Leave this for 18 months or more to settle the relationship between rocks and acidity. After tasting Frontebosco and also Frontemare you realize the latter is the true catalyst to propel this cuvée selection. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023

Versante est which separates Mugeri from not just the north but also the south and the future will surely look to this area for greatness. Not only Volpare contrada but a section within, here called Frontebosco, as in facing or in front off the forest and so the herbals here within are assumed to be elected by the nearby woods. Makes for freshness but also a fruit fleshiness that the more general Volpare does not show. A full, substantial and impressive Etna Bianco that might just appeal to everyone. Superiore indeed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino Frontemare 2023

Frontemare, “facing the sea,”as opposed to Frontebosco, “facing the wood.” As such this would be east facing from Etna’s east sector and so the block with the view creates a unicorn of an Etna Bianco as fascinating as it seemingly gets. The most crisp, crunchy, fresh and intense of Mugeri’s whites, citrus squeezed throughout and long as the zig-zagging wind of a single road down to Catania and into the sea. Just wow, with layers upon layers to unreel, unfurl and unroll for a long aging period ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Salice 2023

Only carricante from the the town of Milo, five year-old vines in the place where more rain falls and reds can not really be made. No more than 1000 hectares of vineyard farmed by 20 producers recently and collectively coming into its own. Wines now made by high profile estates including Barone di Villagrande, Benanti and Marc de Grazia. Soils are unique, having come from the collapse odf the side of the volcano’s east side. Deep, fractured and then also shallow soils so compact it’s hard for roots to penetrate. Less humid as a result and the best for ripening carricante. Exposure is key because the sun disappears behind the mountain earlier than most, though says de Grazia, “650-750m is the sweet spot. Adding “a challenge but not a suicide.” Extremely steep, two years to rebuild the terraces and here is the result. Imagine the views of the Ionian Sea with a glass, wildflowers everywhere and a sapidity so different to the gifts of the northern slope. Salice is the willow and that weeping only adds to the demure, but in a botanical, mellow and properly astringent way. Just like silex, but volcanic from a wine with no wood in play. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Il Musmeci Bianco 2021

Il Muscemi Bianco is another matter altogether because of two aspects. More taut reserve instigated by reductively protected ability plus an aromatic accountability that screams “mountain wine!” Scintillant behaviour, a bit eccentric mind you but how one could not be amused if clearly enthralled with the intensity. Once again we speak of volcanics and mysterious elements with fruit out of the conversation because it was picked early and with acidity in total mind, but in the end the lava matters most. Needs years to settle in, especially because of the need to assimilate its wood. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino 2022

Eastern slope on Etna, in the town of Milo where only here the Etna Bianco can be labeled with the addendum “Superiore.” From young five year-old carricante vines grown on Alberello at 650m by Fabio Stantino and his family where the conditions are more humid, namely because of the closer proximity to the sea. Cool, gelid and stylish. The kind of Etna Bianco with that mineral, gemstone quality while also one of the more yellow-fleshed fruit pulpy examples juiced by Sicilian orange. Gets white pepper and mango powder exotic at the humid finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Etna Rosso

Alice Bonaccorsi Etna Rosso DOC Valcerasa Rosso 2019

Truly ripe cherry, maturing and for Bonaccorsi’s Rosso surely well into the drinking zone. Wealth of cloying oak, resins and overripe behaviour mean that zone should already be behind us. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Middle ground traveled and promise delivered for the large Feudo di Mezzo as Contrada sizes come, with fruit able to defend itself against generous wood though all parts launch a collective attack on the senses and palate. Big Rosso for Etna, strong boned and willed with the intention to impress. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2020

Big barrel feel on Guardiola from Alta Mora and some fruit maturity to say the twain is yet to be abridged. As high toned as Rosso will come, red fruit swells and a dusty volatility that reminds of Rioja. Just feels akin to aging in American wood. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosso DOC Venturo 2022

Only 700 bottles were made of Alessandro Serrugheti’s Venturo, which transliterates to “next” and generationally speaking that is exactly what he and wife Loredona are to L’Etna. Their corner of Rovitello is rich in volcanic ingredients, of potassium, iron, and magnesium in the lava flow soils of their old (and qualifiedly historic) nerello mascalese vineyard. Alessandro dates them back 60 years and admits there to be a few cappuccio plants mixed in for one of his first attempts at Rosso that is simply grippy, liquid chalky, textural, structured and brimming with dark fruit. Ages 10 months in tonneaux. It’s basically a profound basaltic matter of this place within the greater volcanic place. Greatness is coming. Coming up next. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Rosso DOC Petralava 2019

Floral with a pretty perfume of fruit to join along and the effect is a fête for the olfactory senses. Neither lithe nor delicate in terms of flavour profile and punch yet the substantial and layered effect is something notable. Just a smidgen overdressed and no, subtlety is not the middle name but overall there are fine and appreciable aspects if this Rosso to get behind. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC San Nicolo’ 2022

San Nicolo’ steps up more than a tier in Etna Rosso terms as compared to Outis because its freshness and fragrance are that much more intense. This smells like Etna should, with southeastern slope warmth behind its ripeness and acidity acting as the driver for that freshness. Still it presents a challenge to sort through and figure out the how, what and why. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC Outis 2017

Notable wood on the nose, spiced and like the Bianco also savoury in an herbal-botanical way. Suits the fruit though the aromas lower, deepen into baritone and struggle to rise up with ease. The barrel is very involved with the flavours and somewhat unrelenting though one should not question the substance of this Rosso. Then again it’s already five to six years of age and so maturity will now beget declension. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Truly pretty Rosso perfume yet the palate’s hard shell is candied and a bit cloying. The barrel is used in a symptomatic way, driving the fruit to places it may not have wished to go. The combination of that and volatility not in check leads this down and artificial and medicinal path, as a result. The ’21 Bianco Superiore is glorious but the Rosso is a miss. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Ilice 2020

Monte Illice 2022 is in better steading than the Rosso 2021 because its volatile compounds lay low and do much less to distract from the prize. Still the use of wood is heavy and so a resinous but also emulsified feeling is ascertained. Not quite soy but certainly lactic and creamy. A much better wine however and one that will age well over a five-plus year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Serra Della Contessa Alberello Centenario 2018

Benanti Viticoltori was founded in 1988, one of the pioneers on L’Etna. Two Piedmontese oenologists, Gian Domenico Negro and Marco Monchiero, along with Prof. Rocco Di Stefano of the Experimental Institute for Oenology in Asti and Prof. Jean Siegrist of the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique of Beaune combined to exert profound influence on Giuseppe Benanti and his wines. Oenological consultancy has molded and developed Benanti’s wines, from Salvo Foti to Enzo Calli, now with Benanti for 25 years. Serra Della Contessa is a field blend of the two nerello out of a 100-plus year-old bush vine vineyard (documents say 1910s), own grafted and original, bit of a unicorn for Benanti and a pioneer, just like Giuseppe Benanti. Not labeled as pre-phylloxera because “it’s difficult to prove,” but surely from resistant vines. The same vineyard (Monte Serra) also makes for a Contrada wine from the younger vines. Large barrels for two years, one in tank and then finally two in bottle, not unlike a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. There is a chalkiness and serious structure here but the Grandi Botti do little to distract, thicken or overarch any semblance of density to this blend. Serra della Contessa dates back to the countess that owned the state in 1472. Cleary one of not only L’Etna’s but all of Sicily’s most important structured and age-worthy red wines. Would love to see this agin in 2033. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Rovitello Alberello Centenario 2018

From North Etna, as opposed to the sister Serra della Contessa label that comes from the home-front vineyard on the mountain’s southeast slope. Picked two weeks later from a cooler location and still the same concept, that being a field blend of nerello mascalese and cappuccio, planted in the 1920s and yes it’s possible there are other varieties mingling in the ancient material of these bush vines. Essentially pre-phylloxera and here Rovitello is softer and cooler, almost gelid and less warmth meets weight, though Monte Serra is not what you would call a wine of density. The acids, harmony and understatement are really fine but to be honest the Contessa is showing better and with more impressive structure today. And yet Rovitello is a magnificent red blend from old DNA in its own-right. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2022

From L’Etna’s southeastern sector on the mountain’s semi-circle and one of fine if also light glycerol texture. Truly pretty and delicate for Rosso, the kind we tell people about in the way we often describe pinot noir from the Côtes de Beaune. This is indeed as closely resembling that kind of varietal-appellation relationship as any on this volcanic mountain. Really fine, precise and softening though structure is not a problem. The feels are of older lava flows and how they effect nerello mascalese. Obviously not pinot noir. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Calderara Sottana 2022

Benanti is not just a southeastern Etna specialist but an estate that wrote the book on the making of fine, precise, finessed and structured wines from that sector aboard the mountain. There is more power (albeit restrained) from northern slope Calderara Sottana and a sense of rich chalky liquidity that speaks to the age of lava flows and how vines are raised on older volcanic soils. Also the 700m of elevation and a place that works best with nerello mascalese, especially with north-facing plantings. The transmission is purposed, trenchant and near formidable. More chewy texture here and more favourably or gainfully nerello mascalese but when you think of it alongside Monte Serra than the options laid out are yours to choose. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Franco and Giusi Calcagno

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2021

Ah such an intoxicant of Calderara perfume coaxed and on exhibit just the way we would hope it should. Mind you there is some wood to deal with though high standard used will become quality worth resolved. More liquid chalky an Etna Rosso than many but again the execution will beget harmony because the wine is already expressive and frankly distinguished right there. Give this promising 2021 another 18 months and its canto will warble harmonic, pure and long. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Solo nerello mascalese, made with the grapes from all three Contradas, 10 months in steel, followed by six months in bottle. Dictionary entry though it’s just the first vintage of this specific Rosso without Cappuccio. These are nerello plants grafted onto the old cappuccio and to be honest there is more purity and focus this way. Spicier, in a way and more energy. Will take a few vintages to find its solo artist stride. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Only nerello mascalese from 35 year-old vines, big barrel for 14 months. Even though Feudo di Mezzo is the largest Etna Nord contrada there is such consistency and a thread of wine effect that runs through the 20-plus producers. Cottanerà heeds and abides by the vineyard to produce a balanced FdM worthy of the name. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Nerello Mascalese

Plants are 85 years of age on four hectares but this wine is a selection from three tonnes of grapes to make only 1,800-2,000 bottles. Riserva, so it remained in cask for two years plus two more in bottle. Depth, breadth, spices and richness, the most full bodied and textural Rosso, tannins sweet and long-chained with time still needed to resolve all that is here. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Marchesa 2020

Marchesa 2020 seems to tell a contrada story in a most positive light with its effusive, fresh and yet also concentrated way. A specific style to be sure and a layered one but those layers are closely knit with their weave of ultra specific fibre. There is some reduction which is not a surprise and then some good old-fashioned structure to see this age quite admirably. A different charm and a good one from this well made Rosso. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Purgatorio 2020

Bold and trenchant Etna Rosso from the one and only legend that is Federico Curtaz and one to take great time getting to know. Ripe to be sure but also acids in stride with fruit influenced by Etna’s newer (relatively speaking) northern lava flows providing the freshness and finesse. There are some herbaceous moments that put this in a savoury place and in the end the diversity and complexity renders this a potent while oh so intriguing iteration of Etna Rosso. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Pukkaria 2020

Consistency and a thread of similarity runs from Purgatorio through Pukkaria but the latter is not the bold expression that is the former. Sweeter perfume, more glycerol texture and emulsified acidity make this closer to the heart and without the same level of grip by structure. Still the herbal-herbaceous feels are there and some reduction to hold a part of the wine back. Give it a year and the ties that bind will loosen to free this wine of brine and tang. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Pretty much what they call Classico as far as Etna Rosso is concerned with a nerello mascalese of concentration yet delicate and shiny enough to speak generally if abidingly for an appellation. Wood is not nothing and will need some time to melt in but this is clearly a Rosso for Rosso sake, raised properly and equipped to live comfortably. A five year example that could be poured for anyone to explain the combination of style, varietal and place. Feels just a bit natural with faint Brettanomyces noted in the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC Rosso Di Mezzo 2022

A sturdy and well wooded Rosso from Feudo di Mezzo labeled as Rosso di Mezzo because why not though the nomenclature could suggest a second wine to some. Like Rosso di Montalcino or even lesser, Rosso di Toscana. We know the intent but when you look at some other Italian denominations this becomes somewhat perplexing. In any case this travels down the middle of the Mezzo road (wink, wink) to deliver a Rosso of medium body, acidity, structure and finish. On par with Graziani’s Rosso DOC, both good wines though with little to distinguish between the two. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Gran Conte 2014

An alberello-trained, pre-phylloxera nerello mascalese of century vines. A survivalist, having been through at least one world war. A mature, oxidative and fully resolved Rosso in secondary character with no going back. Gifts that old Amarone feel without the jam or density, but age has put this in a known time frame for they who fully appreciate old wines. Freshness is not part of the package. This ’14 is the current release and once again 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Frank Cornelissen Etna Rosso DOC Munjebel 2021

As per the explanation of the erudite gentleman from Houston (by way of San Diego) the meaning of Munjebel informs us to be a “dialectal toponym for Mt. Etna and by the way akin to the Sicilian Muncibeddu or the Italian Mongibello, meaning monte bello or beautiful mountain.” And so it truly is in Etna Rosso form, of a purity and clarity that bemuses but also pleases us so. Chewy Rosso with that natural settling on the palate like a savoury salve slowly dissolving without dissipating or disappearing from consciousness. Stays with our thoughts and feelings for a good long time. Fine 2021, as expected and confirmed without a single moment of having conformed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Quite the bright and ultra fresh nerello mascalese number with what feels like fruit taken from young and impressionable vines, and as of yet to deliver full out structure. Easy access, fresh and free drinking, no big questions posed and a Rosso that simply drinks really well. The length and consistent presence of flavours and textures speak to the maker’s affinity with mutually relatable red varieties, in this case nerello’s spiritual and physiological connection to nebbiolo. Then again Davide Rosso’s work with both Domaine Jean Grivot and Domaine Denis Mortet have no doubt influenced and introduced the treatment of pinot noir towards his work with mascalese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

A very warm and dry vintage making for a taut, chalky and savoury nerello mascalese (with 10 percent cappuccino). This next ‘a Rina takes off where 2021 left off and only Feudo is as consistent an Etna Rosso as this. Chalky red cherry, a leathery aspect and drying tannins that speak about 2022 in both toasty and positive ways. Crisp ’22, of bay and liquorice, salty volcanics and good length, though not in the league of Feudo and San Lorenzo. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

The gifts of San Lorenzo are of a slow release ilk the other cru and vineyards of Girolamo Russo are not, but this from 2022 is so full of riches it brings early joy. A great pleasure to have a glass even now with gregarious perfume and readied flavours, of red berries, liquid chalky to candied palate swaths and immediacy from this bottle of wine. San Lorenzo shows off the most glyercol and silken texture – it’s almost candied but of course it’s not. Spicy on the back side, sneakily structured and all the while with a glass we’re feeling fine. Can only improve and integrate with a couple of years time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

From the highest section in the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard, bush vines, very old. Delivers ultra light and conversely powerful di Mezzo freshness, but from this elevation at a much higher rate and with an extension of vibrancy plus energy. More verticality and sweetness of nerello fruit like almost no other. Resides in a state of grace upon the palate and though it hovers just a millimetre above, there still feels like the fruit, acidity and finest tannin are collectively making full contact. Remarkable. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive, so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

The home vineyard, great vintage and that should not be questioned because frankly it simply can’t be denied. If nothing else the intensity of purpose comes through from the start. More depth and crunch, further concentration and breadth, still austere and working through its tasks, machinations and intentions. Big wine from 2021. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

Longer maceration because these are stems that ripen better than anywhere else and so Alberto Graci tastes and decides how long to go. Usually 60 days and 2019 was right around that number. You can feel them, mostly though not 100 percent ripe and yet that savoury-verdant note works so well to create a spice mix and seasoning that extends the breadth of the fruit. Do not come here for heavy concentration or weight because there is restraint but also expect some austerity. Really needs time and will eventually settle into it’s technicolor skin. A compact wine that will deliver a slow release of energy. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Rosso DOC 2021

A blend of 80 percent nerello mascalese with (20) nerello cappuccio, raised in 500L cask. Ascends with warm grape must character, fresh fig and tree pod fruit. On the warmer and darker side for Etna Rosso, already into some maturity with an almost Ripasso-like feel on the palate. Less typicity for Etna Rosso without a real sense of place. Either the grapes need to be picked (even) earlier or the winemaking will need to scale back and press as gentle as possible. Times have changed. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Spice and resins on the aromatics, wood-derived and unresolved. Earthiness, of fresh laid sod and a chalky undercut of stone. A bit rustic, as they say. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

Sebastiano Vinci – Mecori

Mecori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Muganazzi Duo 2022

They are Serena & Sebastiano, Mecori’s “Duo,” reiterated from the special Muganazzi Contrada and vines planted in 1927 as a reductive one, protected and insular, unresolved and therefore undefined. Air is a friend of this nerello mascalese from one (soon to be two and a half) hectares and agitation an even more important accomplice to release what charm lays low and behind. There is real richness and layering beneath the shell which more than accidentally and incidentally defines the contrada and what it can achieve. Spicy and spiced, chalky, massively tannic and the kind of structure few Etna Rosso are wont to hold. A big wine so far away from ready, currently grippy and austere, tension in charge and time the operative to effect any kind of significant change. Average production is 4,000 bottles, soon to reach approximately 10. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Giulia Monteleone

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Monteleone 2022

Fine perfumes and just as promising spirit turn upwards with even further generosity from an Etna Rosso of fruit as pure as any. A wine of harmony and like a well-written song sung with grace. Not the most complex or complicated Rosso but who would not bask in the glow of a glass any place and any time. Clarity and purity are what matters for Etna Rosso with its feet on the ground. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Rumex 2022

Rumex, a.k.a. Dock or Sorrel, a perennial culinary herb. Also Rumex, Giulia Monteleone’s sister Rosso to Qubba, of 100 percent nerello mascalese grown at 680m in the volcanic sand and gravels of Contrada Pontale Palino. The vineyard is a natural “clos” encircled by Sciara (mounds of magmatic scoriae formed along lava flows). Rumex is not Qubba what with its brighter entry but also high tonality and elevated acidity. This also means volatility, in check and important for the style and effect of this Rosso. While Qubba is a Rosso for which to peer through ornate windows, Rumex offers a converse approach with much to chew and mull upon, many facets to look deeper into, parts to unravel and feelings to unlock. Must wait two more years before more answers are provided. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Qubba 2021

Perhaps the most famous Islamic architectural example of a Qubba is the Green Dome in Medina, a cupola-shaped shrine built in 1837. In a way Monteleone’s Qubba feels like the representation of Giulia Monteleone’s short history aboard Versante Nord, a journey that began in 2017 and perhaps this Rosso’s extra year in bottle has contributed to the story. A nerello mascalese from a fine vintage that has come to a very great place. There is charm but even more so there is depth to this ’21. A structured wine just about arrived though not quite ready to open its doors and yet we feel like we are peering through the stained glass window of Jerusalem’s Qubba al-Sakhra. Or more realistically the nerello’s aperture but this is clearly coming from fine northern Etna terroir that ripens fruit, maintains acidity and give generously of its vines. Fully developed flavours, plenty of grip and many years are left to give. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2021

Nero di Sei 2021 comes quicker to the point with near-immediate gratification because of vintage and also by way of the team allowig and even encouaging this to happen. Or abided more like it, with red berry fruit aromas that nerello mascalese can gift when the conditions are right. This is not to say that 2021 will fade into early light because it is in fact equipped with volume, concentration and backbone. A truly exceptional vintage that will appeal to all. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

A nerello mascalese that sees 24 months in the troncone wooden vats from a vintage with its specific challenges but there is volume and depth. A Rosso that draws from all the available plots farmed by Palmento Costanzo. Spice and that feeling you get when you bite into dried fruit tree pods like bokser or carob. The finish is Etna balsamico, a mix of wild fennel, oregano and mint, but also some other dusty gariga. Last tasted September 2024

Spicy and floral, aromatically crisp and taut, wood a factor with plenty of seasoning. A bit sappy and edging into tang with flavours quite sharp and also dense but time will settle the score for all parts involved. A big and inky version of Nero di Sei and one to really sink your teeth into. Wait two years to do so. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2020

Always promising and spirited Rosso from the combination of producer and place which take full advantage of both its elevation and particular lava flow to effect beauty and age-ability. A swirl of glycerol comes away from sweet perfume and leads toward real time austerity to indicate not only a wine of substance but also one of aging probability. The concentration is buoyed by acidity and tannin in the ways of top shelf Etna Rosso. Fine vintage and work from the Palmento Costanzo team. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2019

Three further months in and no further changes or gains but just the status quo of primary fruit and a Rosso come from vineyard health with thanks to organics and this 1879 eruption derived volcanic terroir. Last tasted September 2024

Evolving nicely, now nearly ready to go, fruit still fresh enough and structure beginning to subside. A full bodied Etna Rosso from Santo Spirito in delivery of what the contrada and the vintage held in hand. Tasted May 2024

A vintage out of which the pre-phylloxera was produced from the contrada so just imagine the possibilities as they come from this all in for the vintage nerello mascalese. Feels like an extended maceration because the glycerol and unctuous textural pool are both at the crest of Etna Rosso heights. Oranges and cherries but more than anything old vines spirit and what just happened from out of these volcanic sands carried through to century and a half vines is something wholly and unequivocally other. Hints at balsamic reduction but the tannins and also acids are so fresh and so years is what it will take to take this anywhere new. The finest chalkiness imitates the soil and puts this in a league with some of Italy’s most important red wines. Up to you too decide which they are or don’t bother at all. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2020

Same grapes, different style of vinification from the pre-phylloxera section of the vineyard, therefore from material grown on the oldest vines. The extended skin contact is followed by a great and instructive polymerization of the phenolic compounds and when the skins sink down in the troncone the wine is racked and sent on its way into Stockinger Foudres. The tannin quality from the grapes coming off of old Santo Spirito vines are a velvet crush of plush fortified by exquisite volume. The wine moves fluidly and in harmony from start to finish, pausing only to see if you are paying full attention, then continuing to command attention seemingly without trying at all. Rosso this fine is deserving of its own place and time. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2020

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (Contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata with a look at varietal character in the vein of nebbiolo and sangiovese but the aging here is one third each steel, tonneaux and amphora. There is some depth to its hue but also proper Etnese transparency and being 2020 there is a sense of maturity on the nose. Amphora will add such an element, not to say the Rosso is passing over into secondary character but it is made with a specific style. Wood spice and amphora texture make this unique, again because Pietro di Giovanni is a winemaker free to choose his whimsy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2019

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata and 2019 show no further maturity as compared to 2020. Speaks not only to vintage but Pietro di Giovanni’s abiding by his contrada and climate. The vineyard is small (1.5 hectare) and the yields extremely low (4 tonnes per hectare). There is surely a style and an honesty here though with time these wines should become exceptional when they are designed with a just bit more restraint. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Passopisciaro Etna Rosso DOC Passorosso 2022

Properly reductive, a redacted quality to hold back the tears and also the years. Concentration and aura are the cards held up by the artistic austerity held out with the final hand yet to play because bets are still arriving on the table. My goodness what structure and intensity so please, stay focused and patient because many years are needed to settle the score. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC 2020

Fine perfume, handsome and inviting to set this up as a muscular yet taut and lean Rosso. Reductive and herbaceous, such a savoury and earthy example of a place within a place. Tannins are somewhat austere and gritty but they should settle and resolve. Palate presence does not follow a direct line from aromas but again, time will bring them closer and eventually together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

The 2020 nerello mascalese from Contrada Santo Spirito is a meaty and gamy bruiser, sanguine and yet lifted with some fine volatility to nose. The right amount because the aromatic volume, palate depth and tannic freight are all equal partners working towards a common goal. That would be a full-bodied Etna Rosso with the stuffing and planning to age very well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May and September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

A unicorn Etna Rosso and here from 2019 there has been some development though the wine is still ways away from full integration. Talking formidable structure, inclusive of tannins of a tight and variegated grain, running crosswise and painless because they usher fruit and urge acidity to always be a part of the fray. A total weave of Rosso sentiment, bringing emotion and pleasure without fail, to exult a vineyard as special as any in the world. One only need to stand over it to understand its power, insistence on restraint and the keys to unlock potential. Will turn heads and remain in light for a good long time. “Facts are nothing on the face of things. “Still waiting, still waiting, still waiting, still waiting.” Drink 2026-2037. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Not a contrada specific Etna Rosso but more than 70 percent comes from Feudo di Mezzo in Passopiciaro. As juicy and glycol notable Rosso as there has ever been and silken would best describe the quality felt aboard the more than pleased and nurtured palate. Another wine that improves each vintage under the guidance of Patricia Tòth, in part because her favourite dogs hang around that winery next to the vineyard. Also because her experience and abilities have come to a most profound place. Love the spice masala on the finish. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Quantico Etna Rosso DOC 2018

“Tough vintage,” admits Giovanni Raiti, with rain at harvest in October and lots of it. Selection was essential, careful maceration and pressing as well. What has resulted is a glycerol glide through texture incarnate with a fab silken palate holding court and more concentrated strength than thought possible. A wine to nose quickly and move forward to linger on that mouthfeel. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Rupestre

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2022

The name Rupestre refers to the 3,000 year-old Palmento found on the estate’s site in Contrada Pietramarina and the word essentially means “ancient.” Rosario Raciti worked in Portugal, Spain, New Zealand, Australia, Tuscany and Puglia before returning to the family farm in Castiglione di Sicilia. The style is so very much Rosario’s, reductive and closed, yet from Contrada Pietramarina the glycerol, silky organza texture and length are what make the case for potential greatness out of such a wine. Again vine age is less than 20 and so the best days are still to come. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2021

This just the third vintage for Rosario Raciti’s Etna Rosso from Contrada Pietramarina in in Castiglione di Sicilia. A perfumed nerello mascalese, unadorned and pure with glycerol marking the mouthfeel. Sweet and savoury spices and just a lovely natural swirl to not just the fruit but the whole composition. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2020

Lighter of body but not aroma as it now enters with the volume turned up, a feeling of idiosyncrasy and high-level curiosity. Wild and exotic spicing owing to a 17th century lava flow now in a state of degradation to make certain the nerello mascalese growing in its sands are the recipient of its mineral profile. Last tasted September 2024

High-toned, spirited and transparent nerello mascalese from Tasca’s L’Etna Tascante out of Contrada Pianodario. Red berry shine, acids excited and fruit a willing participant. Tarragon and Basil herbal, so very basaltic stony and truly a wine of place. Crunchy and ever so slightly resinous with balsamico mixing into the sweetness of fruit and acidity. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2020

Old Sciaranuova vines are the impetus for concentration and experience in this soil-driven contrada specific Rosso for Alberto Tasca’s Tascante of L’Etna. A wholesome, fulsome and fully formed Rosso with the verity of a nerello mascalese-ness here that delivers the entirety of mountain experience with earthy, austere and drying tannins sure to elevate the long term goal and gain. Big Rosso but one of medium body that sets its heights and peaks to points achievable and five years forward will see real things indeed. Bravo to the team for getting this estate and this wine to where it needs to be. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia – Tasca d’Almerita Tascante

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2012

The inaugural vintage for the Tasca family’s Etna project and a more intense result because of initial experimentation with longer macerations. A very promising and in retrospect top quality but also age-worthy vintage, with lingering freshness battling against developing cherry stone bitters. As for overall maturity the ’12 has hung in admirably though wood and the pressed style have added up to this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Rampante 2020

Rampante is the biggest and broadest of the three Contrada Tascante, less ethereal and with more gainful force but it does so with impressive pronouncement. A comparative study however and still thus Rosso is transparent like its brethren. The fullness is a matter of contrada soil and subsequent style. Really quite unique for Etna Rosso, glycerol and silken texture in delivery of mouthfeel that few others will gift. Rampante yes but also Tascante, a way of raising and looking at nerello mascalese fruit with an eye to expression and fineness of tannin. There is some grippy austerity in the last part of this Rosso but one can’t help but feel the promise in its ways. Should age beautifully for 10 years easy. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 20° Anniversario 2022

A single contrada Rosso from Terre Nere from the young vines within Calderara Sottana, to celebrate Marc de Grazia’s 20 years of delivering nerello mascalese from his Etna estate. “The young vines have a vigour and an enthusiasm,” he says. “Bless them.” A blend of these precocious parcels and a cuvée that he surely feels is representative of what has been accomplished thus far, without diverting too far way from what has already been done. Their cumulative hue is always lighter and brighter than the rest of the wines. A fine design and effort that stays true to purity and finesse. Fine wine indeed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted (twice), September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Aged 18 months instead of the usual 12, which the reds will almost always receive going forward. “The son of our vineyards and also neighbours that follow our protocol,” explains Marc de Grazia, “or those who are so good in their’s they don’t need to follow our protocol.” Fine introductory lesson in Etna Rosso now in session. Not so much a dictionary entry but more like the instructor itself to test our mettle and knowledge, to see if we are paying attention and gaining what we need to now and feel. Bright red fruit, some grip and structure with tannins that dry with preferable, positive and proper distinction. A wine that will see the single contrada wines of Terre Nere move from strength to strength. “A watershed vintage” says de Grazia. “The finest (non single contrada) Rosso we’ve ever made and will improve with age.” Last tasted September 2024

The “Villages” Rosso, blending youngest vines fruit from the various 50-plus parcels comprising half of the total production, including some cappuccio. There could be some montellado and other smallest quantities of red grape varieties involved. Interesting in that this effects a richer and naturally sweeter character than most Contrada or Cru wines. So getable and crushable, also a dictionary entry and teaching moment for what it means to be and taste like Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

Always the first to be harvested, almost certainly on October the 4th, give or take a few days of course. “Begins with harmony when young,” tells Marc de Grazia, “and born perfect.” Not entirely true and yet also not disengenous to say that because it will age extremely well. Yes 2022 is pretty, immediately gratifying and seductively perfumed already. Underneath are layers of feudal structure that may lay low below, unseen and unspoken, but they are there. The nerello mascalese equivalent of a hierarchical social structure characterized by a small ruling set of tannin over fruit peasantry working in exchange for protection. Maybe half the grip as compared to the other single contrada Etna Rosso but do not sleep on this subjugating power. Needs two year to initiate its integrations. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Moganazzi 2022

Moganazzi is a bit further east and slightly higher in elevation as compared with Feudo di Mezzo. All terraced, 70 year-old vines at 650-700m. Three parcels combining for one vineyard on the same hill. Marc de Grazia purchased them one at a time and he sees this wine in the vein of say Pommard or Nuit-Saint-Georges. In other words grip that needs two years to “mellow and obtain its luminosity.” True spirit of Etna Rosso’s grace and charm with as lithe and bright nerello mascalese as ever there could be. Fragrance and kick. Moganazzi is all that and secretly austere within the construct of its fine demure. A Rosso that makes you think but even more its makes you feel. Terrific emotion, control, concentration and expressiveness. Amazing wine. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted twice, September 2024

With Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2022

Marc de Grazia considers Feudo di Mezzo and Moganazzi to be Premier Cru and while some producers feel that Guardiola is Grand Cru, he begs to differ. “Somewhere between the two,” he says. On the right hill and yet not quite there, maybe like the split opinion on Monte de Tonerre. Elevation up in the 900s transmits up as aromatic heights, expanse of perfume and yet also this sense of maturity. “A soprano of Rosso, a separation of crus with identity that implies discretion.” Refinement but also tannins that are compact, austere and like the bouquet, irreplaceable, in other words, not replicable. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

From 70,000 year-old soils which makes a connection with other Rosso raised on the same terroir, like Calderara Sottana. A place that consistently provides quality for fine wines, from Premier to Grand Cru. This is the oration from Marc de Grazia who repeatedly uses Bourgogne as the reference point. “San Lorenzo of all the wines is the one that requires more patience,” says de Grazia. “To reveal its glory.” There is an aroma that reminds of Guardiola as well, a mix of restrained bursts and maturity which tells us the wine will be more expressive after a bottle is open for 24 hours. Youthful is the understatement. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Dagala Di Bocca d’Orzo 2022

The tiny vineyard that survived the 1981 lava flow, a parcel that only produces a maximum of 1,800 bottles with a connection to San Lorenzo on the other side of the 100m wide lava swath. An old vines Monopole block dating back a century always made and the one that drinks with immediate distinction, maturity and acumen. Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo also deals in the sneakiest of tannins, more structure than you would surely think and that sort of Etna Rosso that arrives somewhere fast but stays comfortably in the same state for a dozen years. All that said it’s precision and beauty allow us to enjoy its charms straight away. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

From the area of Castiglione at 680m with 100 percent nerello mascalese. Aging in grandi botti for two years and then 10 months in bottle before release. A richness of style, liquorice and dried tree pod fruit, the wood very much in play and acidity less intense than many. A liquid chalky presence on the palate, still needing another year to resolve. Chewy example, confident and a slow delay of fruit, which is never really all that fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Big French tonneaux, second passage and older for eight months. No recipe but that is this vintage, not as powerful as 2022 and Sofia sees it like 2016, but perhaps a different kind of balance, though not as ideal as 2016. The restrained power of the volcano runs throughout and you really feel it. Remarkable Etna Rosso in balance and of a grace that speaks to all there can be. What these wines are want to express and how they carry themselves, non-plussed, confident and free. The ripeness factor at the top of what is normal and beautiful without excess or greed. Sweetness of acidity and form-fitting structure but neither curves nor angles are exaggerated, nor drawn with any concentric circles or sharp lines. The wine flows and reaches the limits of what is right and proper. Just that much and no more. And we say thank you. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre-Phylloxera 2017

From Sofia Ponzini in the area of Passopisciaro and her cru vineyard called Vico. Own-rooted, pre-phylloxera vines, more than 100 years old, nerello mascalese and also cappuccio. A reminder that 2017 was cooler than most of Italy, especially the centre and north, but still generally sunny and warm on Sicily, including aboard L’Etna. Just now beginning to open and emit its magnificent perfumes, followed by a textural weave of vinous fabrics and finally the much expected, energizing and aligning archetypal volcanic saltiness. Drink 2024-2030. T asted May and September 2024

Tenute Nicosia Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte San Nicolò Biologico 2020

A 2020 and so a few years in though the Monte San Nicolò is a bit quiet – somewhat aromatically subdued. Needs some coaxing to see and feel its joy, but fruit nor florals are what drive or cause the beats of the heart. In part because it’s somewhat reductive, of pencil shavings and notable botanicals, like an artiginale tonic water if you get the herbal drift. Solid if currently missing some spirit but time will make a difference. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Proper and correct northeastern Etna road taken in terms of extraction and transparency, A good volume (upwards of 30,000 bottles) that will repeat in 2024 after the disastrous 2023. Real cherry fruit but also the stone that speaks to what Contrada Arrigo is want to lend in mineral terms for nerello mascalese. That mixed with some fruit from other sources but our palates get the drift. Good Rosso that will improve with vine age and agronomist/winemaker Rosario Raciti’s familiarity with this farm. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC C. da Arrigo 2022

Etna Rosso from the single contrada (Arrigo) where Terre Darrigo’s amphitheatre grows nerello mascalese in a most beautiful rustic setting on southeastern facing, tightly packed terraces between the volcano and the sea. You can feel the great difference between this wine and the classico Rosso though if you are from this place you say it with sentito, that is with feeling, shouting out this is “the wine from L’Etna!” This single contrada wine elevated from that appellative discourse, softens the bitter cherry stone and smooths transitions. This because it’s a very well made Rosso from a place of great potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

The most understandable and straightforward Etna Rosso there could be, mature and layered, of riches and earth, fruit and soil all in the mix. A volcanic paint by numbers canvas of realism and beauty, easily accessible and generous to a perfectly reasonable degree. Entry point for the DOC and once in, never to look back. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Some very ripe fruit here from Tonatore’s Pietrarizzo Rosso in the ways of late picking and good solid pressing. Makes for a chewy nerello mascalese that will ready itself for consumption quite a bit earlier than quite a bunch of its peers. Plenty of flavour and attraction for a wine that should be consumed over the next three years. Last tasted May and September 2024

North slope of Etna cru of nerello mascalese put to 50hl foudres, blended and then settled in concrete ahead of bottling. Consistently one of the finer Rosso values in Contrada-specific Etna and here the fruit ripeness and maturity is as fulsome as it ever gets. Makes for a drink really early proposition and provided that advice is followed there will be perfume, heady flavours and good acidity in your glass. A wine to lead off high-end tastings and dinners here, there and everywhere. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa la Guzza – Vigneti Vecchio

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Sciare Vive 2022

The work of Rosa La Guzza and Carmelo Vecchio in Solicchiata on L’Etna’s northeastern slope and a blend of several contrade. The signature Rosso of highest production that sees concrete, botti and fibreglass. Some of the vines date back 150 years and there are many varieties involved in what is a true field blend, including the likelihood of ancient red and white varieties; minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico, catarratto and malvasia. But when it comes to grapes (if not perhaps location and elevation) the Etna DOC offers an inclusive and forgiving discipline. Rosa admits this Rosso to be “a little rough,” Carmelo nods in agreement and while also tumble there is just so much flippin’ personality. It may blow your mind and also lash your palate, but in the end nothing else on Etna, or anywhere else tastes like this Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Friera 2022

Contrada Friera is Carmelo Vecchio’s Etna Rosso from Lingualossa, of 95 percent nerello mascalese and a smattering of various endemic varieties (minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto) from vines as old as 120 years of age. Less than one hectare provides this antediluvian hodge-podge of the varietal wild and the maker’s job is to simply gather and come what may. His vineyard is basically a monopole and so there is no frame of reference save for what the eastern Etna spirits might whisper in his ear. Material this old will do what it pleases and while there is a rusticity similar to Sciare Vive there is also more concentration, complexity and most importantly intuition. There could always be the possibility of importune happenstance but Friere knows what to do. It would seem. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2022

Classic and that means arch-classic texture brought forth from a Carmelo Vecchio nerello mascalese. Without a doubt the purest and cleanest Vigneti Vecchio Rosso to date made under his tenure. A challenge of vintage but a test passed with flying colours and sweet spot found. Allow this 2022 to rest on the palate for 20 seconds, to take in its weightlessness and ability to hover just above the senses. A signature of Malpasso that will repeat and be recognized going forward. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2020

As with Friere, the Etna blend from Contrada Malpasso (literally “bad step”), is a Rosso of 95 percent nerello mascalese with bits and bites of various indigenous varieties like minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto, here from vines in the 120 year-old range. A Rosso that pulses, still with some residual CO2 and it feels like carbonic maceration was a part of the deal. Carmelo Vecchio in fact started with the method in 2020 so family and friends could get together and make a party of it. Malpasso shows great energy, fabulously so, alive and kicking. It is said that one wrong step can change everything but a mal passo might just result in a wildly entertaining wine like this. Drink this sooner than the other VV’s while this candle still burns. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Crasà 2022

Contrada Crasà for Etna Rosso is composed of 90 per cent nerello mascalese and a field blend of (10) local white varieties, in this case inzolia, grecanico and catarratto. The hectare and a half was planted in 1930 and so 92 years is the number for this vintage. Call it even and just say century vines because 1930 seems a bit arbitrary at this point for a vineyard that sits just one km away from another where vines are 130 years of age. Carmello Vecchio likes to use stems, co-ferment and give 15 days of skin maceration. The acts of pigeage and remontage are done lightly and so the sweetness and purity of fruit is kept in tact. Like the Malpasso this buzzes with energy but with more control, less wildness and yet remains very much alive. All the red berries are imagined to be represented and once again Vigneti Vecchio presents a unicorn wine. They always are. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Benanti

Other Wines

Benanti Viticoltori Nerello Cappuccio 2022, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

A rare varietal nerello cappuccio, without oak since 2014, not always made and says Salvino Benanti, ”not a wine you can make a business from, but it’s worth showing to the world.” A versatile red to chill, very gamay like, or if you ike to compare locally, in the vein of frappato. Does not grow (perfectly) well in every vintage and there is surely a rusticity but you can see just how well Benanti tames the edginess, softens the structure and maintains a sweet herbal profile. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Chardonnay C’eragià 2021, Sicilia DOC

Tasca’s Etna interpretation of chardonnay comes from a one-acre vineyard in Contrada Rampante and no shock to sense the scents of barrel fermentation. There is vanilla, white caramel, honeysuckle, fennel pollen and lightly toasted biscuits with an autolytic wind ‘a blowing. A still chardonnay imagined as being subjected to a secondary fermentation in bottle and a sparkling method wine should be so lucky to have this fruit as its maker. The flavours feign sweetness accented by spice., energy runs high and in the end C’eragià which translates as “it was already there” is a fine interpretation of chardonnay. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Donna Bianca 2018, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

With fruit from outside of the defined DOC yet in Carmelo Vecchio’s world a most important vineyard at 820m of elevation. The mix of soil and climate make for a poignant and prescient nerello mascalese named for Donna Bianca, the snowcapped “lady,” a.k.a the volcano at 3,000-3,300 metres above. High-toned, free-spirited, big acid bomb and half the glycerin of some of Vecchio’s other reds. Far from volatile despite the lightning style with great potential and a truly high ceiling. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Dessert wines

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Moscato Passito Di Terreni Vulcanici 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

A moscato (bianco) but the variety is muscadelle, not moscato di alessandria, a.k.a. zibbibo. Dried fruit, never crushed, always infused after the stainless ferment and finishes at 110-120 g/L of residual sugar. Uniquely Sicilian if not defined or expressive of being from L’Etna but still a tradition is followed. Clean as Passito will be, without formaggi or yeasty notes, of apricot and fig, acidity enough though unassuming. Serves a purpose, preferably with a good bite into biscotti. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Visits with Planeta and Serra Ferdinandea

Planeta Syrah Maroccoli 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Just the syrah facts, “in purezza” as they say, from an Ulmo site with a proviso for as much varietal perfume as anywhere in Sicily. “We were expecting some kind of natural catastrophe, “says Winemaker Patricia Tóth, “because it was 2020 – but it never arrived.” Good winter precipitation was followed by months of pleasant weather, much like 2014. Succulent acids and tart idealism combine to elevate, buoy and celebrate fruit. A syrah of a rising, balanced, long and true. Has already entered the drinking zone. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Burdese 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A cabernet joint, of 70 sauvignon and 30 franc, each noticeable and notable for this Sicilian play on words. Burdese, as in Bordeaux for a wine grown on the left bank of the man made lake, once a river flowing through the valley below Ulmo in Sambuca di Sicilia. Forget the mimic or simulation because place supersedes idea with a mix of juicy and dusty fruit, succulent acids and fine tannins. No grittiness or grippy intensity but really more a matter of verticality and integration. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Merlot Sito Dell’Ulmo 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A 100 percent merlot from the Ulmo Vineyard, owned since 1694 and a first harvest in 1995. From this part of Menfi where the sun shines bright and the breezes blow every day between the massifs to the north and Monte Cerami that separates the vineyard from the sea. Menfi where the typical reds of merlot outlast the opposing greens by 10 to one and so fruit is everything with the local limestone streaking through. Succinct wine, linear and direct, credibly structured and the cohort involving fruit and wood seamlessly integrated. Fine stuff, veritably reasoned and seasoned. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2019, Sicilia Menfi DOC

An extra year in bottle and at first there seems not to be the great difference that might have been expected when tasted side by each with Didacus 2020. In fact 2019 is a much more tannic and structured vintage with its intensity cross-examined by austerity. Indemnity for cabinet franc with an upwards trajectory of extending verticality and still it requests for more time. The fruit is far less succulent and lush as compared to ’20 and so when the wine falls into place there will be a faster intern into secondary character. Expect quicker to arrive fungi and a masala of spice directed by the wood. Wait another year at least and then drink this Didacus ’19 before the ’20 finishes its own run. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

First vintage of the 100 percent nero d’avola Rosé was 2020, grown aboard the serious limestone at 400-plus metres subjected to the south sea, Saharan and Mistral winds that blow through the Sambuca di Sicilia Valley. While southern France might seem to be the precursor that may no longer be the case, if namely because a blend now becomes a varietal wine. Better for the decision and change, now a step up in rich flavours, texture and presence. Fine and elegant. Last tasted September 2024

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interst and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Bianco 2022, Sicilia DOC

Mezzo e mezzo, 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc grown at elevation like the nero d’avola, only stainless steel for fermentation. The grillo has always been a natural fermentation of a pied de cuve way, while the sauvignon follows dutifully along. A true bianco joint, friendly and smart, sapid and salty, phenolic and grippy. Brat not nat, not bratty and certainly not natty. Crisp and edging into herbal with a what just feels like place, that being Menfi. You can forage for salads in the fields and vineyards, reflected in the flavours of this Bianco. Last tasted September 2024

Mix of 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc, for now the only two white grapes and making up a third of the 17 hectares total. The most recent planting was 2021, the first back in 2015. All about freshness and salinity with just a bit of wood thanks to 25 percent, none of it new. The wood is present by only in subtle and oscillating tones on the mouth. Some phenolic presence yet again, not overdone or even remotely aggressive. A bit buttery at the finish, graced by piquancy and the sort of scorrevole that drifts slowly away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia 2022, Sicilia DOC

Another 50-50 blend, here from nero d’Avola and syrah, equal partners in crime. The wines used to be 70-30, including the Rosato and now half an half makes much more sense for Rosso. And in turn it makes the Rosé that much better as a varietal nero. More syrah brings more spice and also meatiness matched by mineral, spice and elements of the earth. A hit of sanguine, a hint of iodine and then the floral nero kicking in. It continues with its freshness and necessary mix of sapid meeting salty, from limestone, sea and wind revivalist nature. The most complex and frankly interesting becoming delicious red blend in the winery’s short history. Just FYI the Serra Ferdinandea catalogue lists the wines from Rosso to Bianco to Rosato, in that order. Just the way tasting wine should be and yet we taste in the opposite order. Maybe we’ll switch that around in 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Equal parts syrah and nero d’Avola, straightforward, clean and with the idea being to make the purest iteration that exults two very important grapes. Increasing the concrete involvement though this is all done in wood with subsequent vintages to go in that cemented direction. Already croccante so imagine the freshness and crunch going forward. Purple violets, light chalkiness and what feels like sandy soil-effected freshness. Piquant and toothsome. Delicious. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

godello

Versante Nord, L’Etna

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Post ProWein tasting crawl trough the Ahr, Mosel, Nahe and Rheinhessen

Oct30

In March of 2024 Godello reprised a Düsseldorf redux by attending the annual ProWein Wine Fair and then hitting the road for a three-day, four region transversal of German wine-growing regions. Prowein, Messe Düsseldorf and the German Wines Institute brought international journalists through the Ahr, Nahe, Mosel and Rheinhessen. The producers visited were Weingut J.J. Adeneuer (Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler); Weingut Forster (Rümmelsheim), Schlossgut Diel and Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth (Burg Layen) and Weingut Anette Closheim (Langenlonsheim); Four producers from Der Ring 1899, a.k.a. the Bernkasteler auction company hosted the group at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach; Weingut Franzen (Bremm), Weingut Walter (Briedel), Weingut Rebenhof (Hochheim am Main) and Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz (Mertesdorf); Last stop was with Weingut J. Neus (Ingelheim am Rhein) in Rheinhessen and finally the press tour concluded with a fascinating Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek, presented by Sommelier Shanna Reis. Special thank you goes out to Christiane Schorn, Senior Manager Press & PR, ProWein, Michael Mandel, Messe Düsseldorf and Carola Keller, Marketing Manager, German Wines (DWI). These are the estates, their makers and notes on a collective 80 wines tasted between the 12th and 14th of March.

Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca – J.J. Adeneuer

Ahr Valley

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer – Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Blanc De Noir Purist 2022, Ahr Valley

Saignée method Blanc de Noir, reduced from the Grosses Gewächs spätburgunder, finished at three g/L of RS. Simple, fresh and dry. Quite pure as Rosé with a mild pith bitters finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Weissburgunder Purist 2022, Ahr Valley

Juts a month on the lees for pinot blanc, now a year in bottle, more about texture and mouthfeel than primary fruit. About as crisp and clean as it gets but again with a mild lime pith bitter finish, much like the Rosé. Length adds to the refreshment of the wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley

Mildly reductive and also a factor of Ahr Valley terroir, making pinot noir flinty and taut while still this youthful. As with all the Adeneuer pinots they all fall in at 13 percent alcohol, the wood factor only from Bourgogne forests and just 10 percent new. A mix of red berry fruit, more flint stone character and the faintest touch of red fruit but also almond bitters. Would never see this as jammy and chilling it down for maximum freshness is wholly encouraged. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 2 2020, Ahr Valley

A pinot noir from after the floods of 2021 and normally bottled after 12 months. Circumstances meant that after the barrels were saved the vintage had to remain in wood for 18 months, only able to be bottled after the clean-up. Caused the alcohol to finish at 13.5 percent instead of the usual 13 and there is more texture as a result. Feels like a bigger and creamier pinot noir with tang and more red berry plus a toastier quality than that of the coming ’21s and ‘22s. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 1 2021, Ahr Valley

A later harvest, two weeks later the 2018-2020 but also the flood vintage when on the night of July 14th and into the 15th the waters filled the cellars and basements plus halfway up the ground floor of the winery. The No. 1 always remains 18 months in barrel, fruit coming from the lower Ahr Valley vineyards in three villages. The soils are 60 percent volcanic rock and the basaltic reek is felt in palpable aromatic display. Much more lactic and blood red citrus style plus this porcine smokiness, like Speck bacon. More structure and only GG plots are used – three of them. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Kleine Kammer 2022, Ahr Valley

J.J. as in Johannes Josef (ancestor from the 18th century, dating to 1776). Kleine Kammer, meaning “small (fermentation) chamber.” This Adenauer pinot noir comes off of soils of only pure slate with sandy loam, the second choice from a GG site, a terraced plot measuring only 0.68 hectares in size. The rule in Germany for GG is such that you can’t use a site’s name twice, thus the fantasy name. Vines are 50-60 and 80-100 years of age with the younger vines giving fruit for this wine. Ages in 1,800 to 2,000L barrels, namely Taransaud. No real toast to speak of, nor new wood feels or bitters in any notable way. Classic slate example that expresses its terroir and since 1776 as a Monopole. from vines with deep roots that never see their berries get sunburnt. A beauty and grace about this, quite getable and with sneaky structure. Made with the Kastenholz clone, grandchild of a pinot noir original. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Rosenthal GG 2021, Ahr Valley

J.J. Adenauer is now Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca and together they farm 13 of 540 hectares in the region, third most from the fourth smallest region in Germany. A red wine specialist with 90 percent red grapes, mainly pinot noir while the rest is weissburgunder and now just starting with chardonnay. Basically a place where Bourgogne grapes thrive. Rosenthal is mainly sandy loam and graywacke soils to gift pinot noir with a purity, crispiness and liveliness. You simply will not find more fresh fruit purity from any of the other Adeneuer pinot noirs. Comes from 2.5 hectares in the GG vineyard and the acid structure here is sensational – the catalyst and reason why this will age longer and slower than the other wines. This was the flood vintage too so kudos to the estate for sticking with it and creating this delight of a pinot noir. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Frühburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley

Varietal frühburgunder, fresh and clean, clean, clean. Floral, without musculature, gamay like and though labeled at 13 per cent it’s really 12.7. Chill this and put away the serious talk. More than go gamay go – it’s fly frühburgunder fly. Approximately 1,500 bottles produced (plus 500 of the GG). Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Beef Tartar – Kräter Sauce, Pinienkerne, Koriander, Chips – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Mosel

Der Ring 1899 at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Weingut Franzen – Bremm

Weingut Franzen Riesling Der Sommer War Sehr Groß 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel

A dry Mosel riesling which means 10.2 g/L of RS, 7.3 TA and finished at 11 percent alcohol. “Winegrowing on a razor’s edge” for a riesling “summer project” begun in 2011, “a cuvée that presents the cross-section of our vineyards and combines all the advantages of the individual locations in one wine.” Spontaneous ferment, as with all the wines, not far from Cochem where the steepest vineyard in Europe slopes to 68 degrees. A riesling of what feels like crazy conversion rates coming from red slates and seasoned with many spices. You would literally have no idea there is any sugar in this wine and the length is exceptional. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Bremmer Calmont Großes Gewächs 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

Bremmer Calmont delivers far more spice and power than the Franzen blend, here off of pure slate on a 65-degree slope which happens to be one of the steepest vineyards in Europe. Calmont is about as dry as riesling gets and its scintillant-mineral quality delivers true Großes Gewächs distinction. Extreme aridity perceived matched by intense sapidity that only this specific Mosel red slate provides. A riesling of trenchant intention, compact and stone cold concentrated. Serious wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Calmont Trocken 2021, Lagenweine, Mosel

Dry riesling from the steepest 65 degree vineyard of oxidized red Devonian slate and quartzite raised only in steel. The specs are 8.5 g/L of residual sugar matched by 7.6 g/L of acidity with 11.0 percent alcohol and as far as vintages are concerned this would be one to really age. Namely because of palate density but also because the acidity is as fine and finessed as it gets for this composition. May not pierce your riesling heart, or soul but it will age well. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Fachkaul is the parcel which forms a kind of mini-amphitheater-shaped bowl where at the end of the 1990s Kilian Franzen’s father Ulrich restored and replanted the vines. The epitome of Killian and Angelina’s story, a Calmont tale fraught with adversity, challenges and heartache, but this small (1.6-ish hectare) plot means everything. Mineral that matters, red slate and the steepest slope where all that is important, essential and profound result in singular riesling. Not quite as dry as the Bremmer but higher in acid, more stark, expletive and magical. Sapid lime intensity, long, significant, precise, consequential and just recently bottled in January. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024

Lachs – Tofu Puree, Edamame, Bohnen, Dijon Sauce – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2017, Große Lagen, Mosel

In a perfect place at this six to seven year stage, from one of the warmest seasons with lots of rain at harvest. Picking began in the second week of September and required many passes in the vineyard with a stringent selection to create (an overall) 15 skus for 11 hectares. The work of Killian and Angelina, students from Geisenheim who began this journey of family necessity at the ages of 23 and 20. A softer Fachkaul but that is the maturity speaking for riesling of a sapid tug on red slate, one and a half hectare mineral-varietal heartstrings. Quite remarkable and with three great years still laid out ahead. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Gerrit Walter and Angelina Franzen

Weingut Walter – Briedel

Weingut Walter Riesling Trocken 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel

From Briedel, next village out of this tight turn in the Mosel from Pünderich where Clemens Busch farms their riesling. The Walter Trocken is just 6.5 g/L of residual sugar pretty much hidden by 6.9 of TA. Six to eight hours of skin contact for a phenolic, taut, lime doused example off of the grey slate of the Briedel Vineyard. Solid effort and notably modern. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Feinherb Briedeler 2022, Ortsweine, Mosel

Villages quality wine from Briedel, not as dry as the Trocken with three times the residual sugar, here at 10 g/L. A floral-herbal expression, fresh, light and modular. The acidity functions to make the malleable wine travel to the back palate and structure is formed because of this movement and interaction. Very well made Feinherb style by Gerrit Walter for simple pleasure, especially with a piece of cheese or beef tartare with pine nuts and a high acid mustard sauce . Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Pünderricher Marienburg Großes Gewächs 2022, Mosel

Gerrit Walter is the next generation producer of this GG riesling out of Briedel’s grey slate vineyard. Sees a longer maceration of 12-15 hours, comes away super dry (3.1 g/L), matches the Trocken’s acidity and finishes at a Mosel high 12.6 per cent alcohol. This is not about fruit but rather the type of mineral focus that comes from Marienburg, with increased seasoning, spice, elements and tonic-edgy florals, though it is not the most phenolic of rieslings. Cracker example, truly dry and in command of the palate. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Pünderricher Marienburg 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

One of two recognizable styes of riesling made by Gerrit Walter to carry on with Mosel tradition even while he and many young generation winemakers are turning to drier and drier. This from an early harvest resulting in 45 g/L of residual sugar, far from searing 8.0 TA and low-ish alcohol at 8.6 percent. There is more fruit here in a light, refreshing yet in its own way also intense style that the estate has been making for 10 years. “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” explains Gerrit and his Pünderricher is without any real skin contact, but the tangerine-orange peel aroma really kicks things off. The length is indeed outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Marienburg 2016, Lagenweine, Mosel

When talking about his 2022 Pünderricher from Marienburg Gerrit Walter noted that “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” three things this 2016 most surely had been. Not anymore because age has exaggerated the aromas if also softened the palate flavours. This divergence has resulted in maturity and a dispersion of parity. There is some interest for this fine if past prime look at a Marienburg riesling. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Spätlese Briedeler Schäferlay 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

No botrytis came about for Walter’s late harvest riesling with 63.2 g/L of RS, higher 9.3 at TA and 8.6 percent alcohol. Elegant, concentrated and optimum if unassuming ripeness for this lime cordial, mineral salts and cracker acidity style. In fact the blade swipe makes for an intensely serious and stood up to be counted riesling that demands attention. Serious but as mentioned also elegant which is a very good combination. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof – Hochheim am Main

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Trocken Ürziger Würzgarten Von Wurzelechten Reben 2022, Hochheim am Main

Ürzig is a village in the Bernkastel district of the Mosel and the Ürziger (vineyard) is a place of red slate, often lending a spicy or salty character to the riesling grown there. Wurzelechten basically means “own or unrooted,” a significant case because there are between 50-60 hectares of un-grafted vines in all of Germany, about half of them planted between 1910 and 1935. Topsoil must exist over stoney soils for Phylloxera to attack and the slate in this part of the Mosel is not one of those locations. Rebenhof’s Kabinett is the truest form of Trocken and one of the zestiest you are ever likely to encounter. Matching sugar and acidity numbers create the equilibrium, both at 6.8 g/L with alcohol right there in the median sweet spot at 11 percent. Tons of lime, mostly zest and the intensity never relents. Still there is a fulsome aspect and so time should soften the attack and coax out some flesh. Unique riesling in any case. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Großes Gewächs Auktionswein Erdener Treppchen 2020, Hochheim am Main

A riesling with the Auktionswein classification which means it its part of the Bernkasteler Ring E.V., which is the oldest wine auction company in Germany. A Großes Gewächs (a mark of quality by top producers from best sites making dry wines) from the iron-rich, red slate soils of the Erdener Treppchen (village of Erden in the Mosel’s Bernkastel area). The 2020 is a wine of dichotomies, still on the dry side but with elevated numbers as compared to the Ürziger. Here riesling is at once salty but the acid presence (as a quotient of this vineyard’s minerals) creates an opposing sense of sapidity. Diversity from start to finish, a wine of waves and oscillations, multifold mineral movements and a gelid texture to the palate. Higher alcohol contributes to the elevated weight. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Spätlese Ürziger Würzgarten Von den Felsen 2018, Hochheim am Main

A new style of Spätlese riesling, well ahead of its time from 2018 out of the Ürziger Würzgarten with just a bit more than one-third of the residual sugar of the Kabinett. Here at 29.5 g/L and higher alcohol (11.0 percent) than might have been thought. This modern approach makes for a sapid riesling despite the sweetness, quite phenolic, ripe and grippy, rich and creamy yet intensely mineral. A lime cordial meets sherbet style with backbone, attitude and potential. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Auktionswein Ürziger Würzgarten Urglück 2022, Hochheim am Main

Fabulous nose with exceptional aromatics mark the entry of this very sweet riesling made in a singular Kabinett style. A riesling of nectarine and peach stone, creamy like the Spätlese but more bodied and emulsified as texture with acidity really buoying the fruit. The method, application and intention might suggest a challenge but Rebenhof does their best work when sugars are elevated because that is how they see riesling and its capabilities. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024

Charlie and Caroline Weis – Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz – Mertesdorf

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kaseler Nies’chen No. 15 Im Steingarten 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Caroline Weis describes the steep and exposed Nies’chen vineyard as the “mountain,” an extreme and specific Steingarten site with blue slate and sparse stony topsoil. It is anything but a “garden” of a vineyard to farm. Labeled Trocken and while anything but severely dry it is the intensity of this riesling’s acidity that plays tricks upon both the nose and palate. The TA is in fact higher (at 7.9) than the sugar (at 7.5 g/L). The new (and local) winemaker Phillip Steffes likes this style, more open than rigid and definitely sapid without any gratuitous generosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Mertesdorfer Herrenberg No. 14 2022, Mertesdorf, Mosel

As with the Nies’chen there is slate in the topsoil of the Mertesdorfer (Mertesdorf Village) Herrenberg but more blue on the lower slope, as opposed to black at the “mountain” top. Also a dry riesling though even more so (at 5.5 g/L) in this Großes Gewächs edition with an acidity number (at 6.7) that dominates to make this feel like one of the most arid Mosel rieslings around. A modern and modish take that commands attention, broadens the mouthfeel and so that fruit-mineral swirl becomes one of serious breadth. A credible example with acidity that is not sharp, but certainly powerful, impeccable balance and high level age-worthiness in the Trocken idiom. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Kaseler Nies’chen No. 12 Auf Den Nauern 2021, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Auf Den Mauern is a 60 percent steepness portion of the Nies’chen Vineyard and considered to be the most important riesling section where high slate walls support the slope. Though this does come across as dry there is more sugar (at 8.6 g/L) and also acidity (7.2) as compared to the Herrenberg. What stands out now is the saltiness in a way only this riesling from Erben Von Beulwitz is want to show. A different expression results, also because it’s still young, reductive and yet to open. Caroline Weis notes its 10-year potential and truth be told there will be two more years of waiting before any significant changes begin to occur. It could be suggested to open bottles at the 2,4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 year marks to see the evolution. It was a rainy summer of 2021 in this part of the Mosel and so things slows down for riesling. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10 2022, Mertesdorf

Classic Mosel style in the ways of the 90s and 2000s and “Dad’s favourite,” tells Charlie Weis. The kind that expertly balances high sugar and acid, layered like mille-feuille pastry, light on its feet and melting with ethereal ability in the mouth. Creates a symbiotic relationship with the Spätlese, the other Herbert classic styled riesling. The combination of 150 years of history and a family’s efforts since 1982 are what make a riesling like the Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben Kaseler Nies’chen No. 6 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Now into late harvest territory, old-school if you will, “Dad’s riesling” admits both Caroline and Charlie, Weis daughters and face of the estate. What a contrast to the Trocken, fruity, pulpy and forward, blast from the past though a very recent one to be honest. No holding back, zero reduction and ready to please. The specs are 95.0 g/L of residual sugar, 9.1 TA and 7.1 percent alcohol. Classic in so many respects, namely the tart stone fruit, sweetness elevated by the specific kind of acidity and good energy all-around. A clean and protected riesling that should have no problem living a long and productive life. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Auslese Alte Reben Auktionswein Kaseler Nies’chen 2015, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Tasted side by side with the 2020, a wine so incredibly youthful it seems years too early to be tasted. This 2015 is just beginning to show the first early stage of maturity, an Auslese from a hot summer with heavy rains. This fortunately stopped and the harvest saw cooling temperatures with beneficial drying winds. The end result was small berries and low yields for highly concentrated riesling fixing high quality Auslese. The acidity is still ripping through, keeping the sugars low and at bay, way down below. Kaleo rhythm, pure Mosel aromatic if perhaps the melodic-Icelandic gelid coolness, and “whoa, we get what we deserve.” Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024

Nahe Vineyard

Nahe

Weingut Forster – Rümmelsheim

Weingut Forster Sekt Brut Nature Chardonnay and Weißburgunder 2016, Nahe

The 2016 Sekt of zero dosage spent 90 months on the lees. Still showing good freshness and aromatics are more than joyous. The wine turns quite botanical and it’s all sweet herbs throughout the second half of this unique sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Weißburgunder Dry 2023, Nahe

Fermentation is 70 percent in stainless and (30) in wood. A few hours of skin contact, bâttonage and lees contact for a few months. Organic, with neutral yeasts in the steel and spontaneous in the barrels. Low sulphur, vegan and unfined. Just grapes, no additions, proper ripeness, tasting like fruit and admittedly never creamy, oaky or gratuitously soft. Clean, satisfying, of medium acidity and surely just a matter of healthy grapes out of a good pinot blanc vintage. Well thought out, environmentally and sustainably conscious white wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling KABInett 2023, Nahe

A German word play, the use of KABI in bold, as in “I’d like to have a Kabi, short for Kabinett.” One of the first riesling harvested at lower sugar and higher acidity though like all Kabinetts the residual sugar is essential, though here it’s in the lower range at 36.2 g/L. A cool climate vineyard that is now warming to be able to make this style in the Nahe, plus Laura Forster wanted this style to be made, especially because of the low alcohol. Only the third vintage, a fine mix of peach and lime, richness and tang. Well balanced though not one to age like many from the Mosel. Only 3,000 bottles made. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling vom Kies Dry 2022, Nahe

From gravel (kies) soils and the aromatic profile is not only so opposite to the Schiefer but to 99 percent of rieslings made in Germany. A botanical tonic and a cheese rind that really expounds on the idea of this being a natural wine. Yes the soil comes through but also the vinification process, of 10-12 hours of skin contact, first press juice only, spontaneous fermentation in steel, finished at Christmas. Very dry, lime finish and just a bit “horsey.” Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

The Forsters

Weingut Forster Riesling vom roten Schiefer Dry 2022, Nahe

From red slate soils, same fermentation-vinification process as the Kies (granite) riesling. Less lactic and more phenolic, dry as can be and in better balance with thanks to the soil. Still it is the mix of style, use of compost, organics and low intervention, including sulphuring that creates this very natural scenting, a notably earthy and cheese rind notated riesling. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2018, Nahe

Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. Warm vintage though cooler than 2019, higher in sugar though still just about bone dry at 2.9 g/L. Also higher in alcohol at 13.5 with more flesh and body and the balance afforded this clean riesling from clearly healthy soils is just right there where we want it to be. Tannins and structure aided by long lees aging (up to a year) in stainless steel. Freshness fully captured, longevity a true matter of potential and acidity still a great catalyst for all that is happening and will continue to develop in the wine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2019, Nahe

Mild though detectable TCA. Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. A complete and utter apposite vintage to the cooler 2018, here warm and dry, the sugar under 1.0 g/L and the acids also a point lower. Alcohol 1.5 less at 12 and overall the balance afforded by 2019 was surely more of a challenge. Warm nights up to harvest sacrificed some acidity and so structure overall here, included tannin is lessened. Just not as balanced and without the top energy of 2018 but still well and naturally made. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Grauburgunder Réserve Dry 2022, Nahe

Short 12 hour but effective skin contact for pinot gris, fermented in 500L tonneaux, 12 months of lees contact and healthy alcohol at 13.5 though less than much warmer vintages. Grows on the red slate soil of the Rotenberg (red mountain), sun richness and good metallurgy in the aromatics. Juicy, fleshy and just enough acid to keep things moving swimmingly along. Great diversion from a sea of pinot grigio ubiquity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Frühburgunder Burg Layer Johannisberg 2022, Nahe

A single vineyard red from the rare variety (only 440 hectares planted in all of Germany), a cru frühburgunder not oft seen in the Nahe. Early ripening grape planted by Johannes Forster’s father 20 years ago. Softer tannin structure as compared to spätburgunder and grown in the cooler site where the riesling for Kabinett also grows. Some whole bunch, fermented on skins for four weeks and yes just enough tannin has come through. Some aging in low toast new barrels, a bit more structure than some though it stays below the threshold of too much extraction and tannin. Just a bit of spice and again gamay or perhaps even pelaverga is the mind’s launching point. Just a hair ambitious for what the grape is want to deliver. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Spätburgunder Kies 2022, Nahe

Grown on the Kies (granite) soil, four weeks of skin fermentation, very little wood usage, soft but still just enough grip to effect structure. Similar natural feel like many of the rieslings and more viscous mouthfeel than the frühburgunder, liquid chalky and again the cheese rind note, Also a verdancy and red citrus tang, desiccated roses and minty cool savour at the finish. Tannins are just a bit hard, chalky-grainy and friable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel – Burg Layen, Nahe

Schlossgut Diel Pinot De Diel, VDP.Sekt, Nahe

A vibrant mix of pinot noir and pinot gris from Caroline Diel, seventh generation winemaker at Burg Layen which came into the possession of the Diel family in 1802. The base wine is 2020 fruit with some residual 2019 involved, two years on the lees and of an aperitivo intent. Easy drinking and on the dry side which feels like another Brut Zero style is well within Diel’s capable reach. Like a bite into a tart and juicy green apple with a drip of red fruit and a fairly tart finish. Satisfying bubble all around. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Dorsheim 2017, VDP.Orstwein

Villages organized riesling from neighbouring village Orstwein with seven-plus years of age, dry and now pretty much in the perfect zone. Has aged beautifully, sitting up vertical and straight, giving generously with a clear and present amount of grace in restraint. The balance between extract and tannin, fruit and acid is simply structured, allegedly and unequivocally spot on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Cuvée MO Brut Nature 2014, VDP.Sekt Prestige

“I believe sparkling wine does not need any dosage,” and Caroline Diel followed this when she joined the family in 2007, continuing what started going all the way back to the 2004 beginning of this project. Cuvée MO Brut Nature is ninety months on the lees, made with pinot noir and chardonnay. Developed richness for a sparkling wine made at the time in an oxidative style,. Showing aldehydic notes, of brioche to the end of a smoky and really old style of Champagne. Should actually stay this way for a few more years to come. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Pinot Noir Réserve 2020, Nahe

Most of the vines were planted in the mid to late 90s by Caroline Diel’s father Armin. Approximately 20 percent whole cluster, the rest hand de-stemmed, all vineyards in the cuvée fermented naturally and kept separate. A year and a half in barrel, spontaneous malolactic settling, racked now and then and no filtration. Rich fruit, high acid, truly complex aromatics, meaty perfume, full, juicy, lively and finally a truly substantial finish. Neither derivative nor imitative. This is Caroline’s mid-level pinot noir for a 7th generation winemaker who would go on to do the 2022 harvest at Romanée Conti. Mid-level will surely rise up to even greater heights. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, VDP.Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Riesling Kabinett Goldloch 2022, VDP.Grosse Lage

When she returned to the family in 2007 Caroline Diel’s first order of business was to not use herbicides “and it was a disaster,” she remembers, “not being prepared with staff, machine and experience.” Good things take time and now organic certification will come in 2024. The 2022 vintage was not the hottest but was an extremely dry one that saw vines on steep hillsides have to work hard to resist the dangers. Healthy vines can in fact digest the climatic extremes and this riesling of Kabinett style is a testament to facing the challenges head on. The gravelly bedrock of Dorsheimer Goldloch is of the Permian age and its rieslings are juicy as it gets, fruit forward and truly antithetical to the über mineral of the Pittermännchen. Makes sense that Kabinett is the choice for this naturally sweet meeting equal factored acidity that connects for a kick mix of sweet, salty, sapid and savoury. A quotient of 42 g/L of RS so hidden by the acids, grip and energy of the wine. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024

Christine Pieroth – Piri Naturel

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth – Burg Layen, Nahe

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Mathilda 2021, Nahe

Christine Pieroth is 7th generation for a winery dating back to 1789. Mathilda is a blend of sylvaner, riesling and kerner, made for simple drinking pleasure. Bottled under screwcap to capture the natural effervescence, skin contact and cloudy character for a characterful example of what a nurturing and deft touch can do for grapes that just want to be together. Clean and well made without any pretence, trend or commercial design. Natural for the simple reason of pour me a glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Riesling 2021, Nahe

Christine Pieroth studied at Geisenheim and worked in the Okanagan. Her philosophy is really quite direct. “Agriculture is really separated from nature.” Piri Naturel is riesling grown on granite-based, (ancient) sandy seashore pebbles called the Kieselstein. Macerated on the skins for one day, to capture the cool climate region, especially with riesling, then ages two years on full lees in big Stückfässern. “One of the vintages (2021) with the highest acidity I’ve ever experienced” she remembers. Beautiful purity captured without oxidative or any idiomatic orange ornateness. Brilliant riesling work in the style for those who like and want, but also those skeptical of what this kind of wine can be. Acids are captured, tamed and on time release. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Ponderosa 2021, Nahe

A family nickname for the vineyard and incidentally also the Matsutake mushroom, a.k.a. Armadillo Ponderosa. Comes from a schist slope that changes colour from top to bottom, here for a single vineyard though it can’t be labeled this way. Not filtered and so it can’t have a classification. “In the last year I’m turning things upside down” says Christine Pieroth. Ponderosa is 90 percent pinot gris with (10) pinot noir treated to carbonic maceration and my if this isn’t the pink juice you really want to drink. Pink grapefruit, jelly belly, pomelo and guava, dry and tropical, crunchy and tart though never searing. Drink this with a grilled striploin – seriously. Forget Rosé or chardonnay – the acid structure, grip and tannins will do well especially, with a marbled cut. After all it is called Ponderosa. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pinot Blanc 2019, Nahe

Piri farms 7.5 hectares for an average of 80,000 bottles, mostly estate. Permaculture and regenerative farming are practiced with organics as the basis for everything, including no fining or sulphites. The pinot blanc is from 70 yer-old vines, “a very special vineyard, planted by my grandpa,” tells Christine Pieroth. Red schist soil to gift passion and texture to pinot blanc that sees three years in oak, all the while on its lees. No complication, a wine of perfume and nuance, abstract expressionist style, an incredible natural sweetness. A unicorn wine, infinite in ways that can and also can’t be described. The most alcohol of Christine’s wines at 13.5 percent but acidity and spices share the stage and spread the wealth. A slight amount of oak flavour, but fermentative notes have all resolved. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pét-Nat 2021, Nahe

A Germanic-styled Pétillant-Naturel in the Lambrusco idiom, bone-dry, made from Piwi grapes planted 20 years ago. They being dornfelder and regent (the piwi variety). Talk about foresight and seeing the challenge ahead of the curve. Leesy and cheesy, the most reductive and natural of all Christine’s wines. The kids will love this. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim – Langenlonsheim

Weingut Anette Closheim Calardis Blanc Dry 2023, Nahe

Calardis is a Piwi variety crossed with bacchus (as opposed to sauvignon blanc or cabernet sauvignon especially) and this is just the second vintage of trying it. Quick on skins, fermentation and just bottled in February. Picked on the 22nd and 23rd of September after a picture perfect season. A muscat aromatic way about this unique hybrid example, light, fresh, clean and this elastic push-pull between fizzy and botanical. Bit of white peach and peach pit too. Finished at 12.5 percent alcohol with 4.7 RS and 5.8 TA. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling With Friends Dry 2022, Nahe

For friends who are or may not be friends with riesling, but they can be. Acts dry but there is 7.0 g/L of residual sugar and a near equal amount of acidity. Entry riesling in style, juicy, high citrus, only steel raising and uncomplicated. Lime in every way, especially the juice and the zest. Bit of a Mojito you might say. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Fifteen Dry 2022, Nahe

From Langenlonsheim, Nahe. A long and narrow, “street village” a.k.a. the Naheweinstraße that lines the Nahe. Anniversary riesling of the label, a blend of two single vineyards, planted in 1963 and 1965, red limestone and Nahe gravel. Vinified separately in old wood and in the 2022 there is some residual sugar because one half did not quite finish its fermentation. Seems like rising pH numbers in a vintage like 2022 is the reason for lower acidities and while riesling still seems immune you can’t say the same about pinot grigio and pinot noir which are hitting numbers at or exceeding 3.5. Quite a balanced riesling, a bit higher in RS than the “With Friends” but also more vibrant, less rounded and more quenching. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Pastorei Dry 2018, Nahe

The last vintage of this near 40 year-old south facing riesling vineyard which has since been re-planted to chardonnay because it’s just too warm a place and 2018 was such a vintage. Finished at 13.5 percent which is about as high as you’re going to accept from riesling, with acidity at a healthy 6.3 though anything but creating a searing experience. Lime juicy, ripe and reduced, like a creamy cordial, sapid as it gets, sweetly botanical upon the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Kabinett Löhrer Berg Medium Sweet 2022, Nahe

From the right side gravel soils for a different mineral experience and while sugar (at 36 g/L) runs high in the Kabinett style you can’t deny how forceful the (8.1) acidity really is. A good if not highest level vineyard site, vines 10-12 years of age, nectarine and lime, well integrated and such a grippy wine. Will hit its balanced stride in a year or two. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Maturis Dry 2022, Nahe

Single vineyard sauvignon blanc called Maturis, as in ripe, well matured and experienced. The clones are mostly from Alto Adige but also some from France, the vines now 16-18 years of age, in seven vineyards, picked across a week’s time. Verdant, botanical and there is a CO2 buzz on the palate. Lime intensity with just six percent wood aging. One of the most unique SBs ever tasted, like green eggs and ham. Tonic fuelled finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Lorista Dry 2022, Nahe

Higher, drier, similar acidity to the Maturis and now the barrel aged version, with the latest picked grapes (near to the end of September) and a much preferred iteration for Langenlonsheim. From a quickly settled, cloudy and protected pressing that clarifies itself and delivers this amazing richness in spite of the austere aridity. The acidity feels closer to riesling for the Lorista and yet there is some roundness, a creamy consistency based on lime because of the wood. Really unique for the variety, made with the Leimbourg (LB) 36 clone out of Alto Adige. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2020, Nahe

Pretty big pinot noir, not exactly traditional German spätburgunder, from German research clones with bunches of small berries and space. Results in more airflow, less botrytis and good ripeness. Low yielding and good colour. Stays on the skins for 16-18 days and then wood for 14-16 months, mainly from François Frères, 25-35 new, plus second, third and fourth fill. Dark berries, sweet savour (with help from 30-40 percent stems added back) for a level of verdancy expected and well integrated. Solid work here. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2016, Nahe

Considering the ripeness, well integrated chemistry and complexity of 2020 it should be really fascinating to look back at 2016. Still peppery reductive and surely a matter of vintage meeting winemaking that both changed within two years after this one. Quite a bit lower in alcohol, here at 13 percent and a perceivable verdant-savoury accent with no shortage of salt and pepper seasoning and added spice. Beyond the reduction this is showing really well, with cool freshness and what could be called a classic German vintage. A pinot noir naked to the world of beauty and that could not be hidden. First vintage was 2008 and since 2012 the same two vineyards have been making this wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2019, Nahe

Higher percentage of stems (over 50) as compared with 2020, with moderate alcohol (at 13 percent like 2016). Now things are really interesting, also more new oak involved and clearly the thought was that this combination of ripeness and moderation could handle more structure and anti-jam developing fruit. Which turns out to have been the correct move because the wood is hidden, the succulence raised and the overall effect one of best balance. Truly well made, judged and effected pinot noir. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Meilenstein 2020, Nahe

Meilenstein, meaning milestone and a wine that marked a big step from a wine that used to be based on point noir with st. laurent. A richness and a pyrazine quality, mildly smoky and really warming on the back end going down. A mix of 65 percent cabernet franc, (25) merlot and 10 acolon (a crossing of dornfelder and lemberger). A quarter new wood and 24 months for a spicy red blend with good energy. It’s woody and a bit awkward still but another year or so will do well to get it into a good place. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Rheinhessen

Weingut J. Neus – Ingelheim Am Rhein

J. Neus Chardonnay Muschelkalk 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Chardonnay is increasingly important at J. Neus and while pinot noir represents 70 percent of the portfolio it is this kind of entry-level varietal wine that speaks to what is possible. All chardonnay is barrel fermented and aged in 500L tonneaux and some German wood. Simple but proper, subtle in all the important ways, especially texture. Impressive work for a barrel fermented and aged, full malolactic chardonnay. Good crunch, energy, vitality and persistence. Pure chardonnay expression, the new Rheinhessen personified for what white wine can be, especially in and around Ingelsheim. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Chardonnay Ingelsheimer 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Ingelheim is the village and this is currently the higher tier chardonnay though a third is on the way so it will soon fall into the middle. Certainly shows more newer tonneaux and compactness on the aromatic front, less forthcoming and yet clearly more stylish. Smells richer and more expensive, transitions with tighter grain and intensity, fills the spaces in between with riper, woven and textured fruit. Then it’s all chalky limestone strikes with spice over the last moments of the wine. Vanilla rests and settles on the finish. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

The introductory pinot noir with a great part of it made with Neus clone grapes, genetically selected by Josef Neus who came from the Mosel and started the winery in 1881. Full on berry aromas in red but also blues, still quite primary as if it just recently come out of its fermentative machinations. So fruit forward and floral, truly unique oi the world of pinot noir and the vintage must have more than something to do with this result. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Alte Reben Ingelheimer 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Eminently and immediately notable to recognize more reduction, flint stone and less fermentative aromas as compared to the entry level Muschelkalk spätburgunder. The wood lends an early and persistent toasty quality while dried herbs and botanicals remind of the phenolics that a Neus pinot noir has been showing for a decade. That said the style has for sure softened and refined over the last seven years to arrive at this well founded time in its tenure. Many people will be surprised at this high level of Rheinhessen quality. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Pares GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

A hot summer though the Grosses Gewachß spätburgunder are made from fruit grown in the coolest spots and picking was done in mid September ahead of the rains. Lively and spicy aromatics with acidity showing up even before a sip is taken. Red fruit of many ilk, from stone through citrus and yet the palate is quiet, namely because Pares is a much more mineral example than the other GG called Horn. Again the refinement compared to vintages such as 2014 shows the progression and evolution of Neus’ work with pinot noir. Approximately 3,000 bottles are produced between the two GGs. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Horn GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

One of two single vineyard sites (along with Pares) on the Meinsebach side of the river and Ingelheim village. Horn is the warmer of the two sites and so the great immediacy of the Pares acidity gives way to greater depth of gratifying fruit maturity on Horn. More stone and less citrus but really the differences are subtle even while the breadth here surely elevates this unique GG. The vineyard faces southwest and texture really concentrates in a pinot noir that still shows off sweet acidity with top level spiciness and energy. Ripest stems are added back and again it just feels like this process has been refined over the last seven years to come to this really stylish point. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024

Shanna Reis – Ingelheim Vinothek

Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek with Shanna Reis

Organic Weingut Weitzel Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bockstein 2021, Rheinhessen

The work of Elke & Eckhard Weitzel with riesling of late harvest (somewhere between Kabinett and Spätlese) designation though also classified as dry. A bit of an oxymoron but this is in fact of a much lower residual sugar content for a late picked riesling. Lacks the energy and drive in the sugar-acid relationship of true or classic late harvest and so the simplified style drinks easily with straight lines and one-dimensional lime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

AdamWein Weißburgunder Trocken Ingelheim 2022, Rheinhessen

Simona Adam is the winemaker, having taken over from her parents nearly 10 years ago. Creamy wood on the nose and even more so on the palate. Spice and pencil lead first, followed by lactic peach and vanilla after. A shot of tonic at the finish for a nicely complex if easy drinking white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Ingelheim Vinothek

Weingut Arndt Werner Weißer Burgunder Trocken Lottenstück 2022, Rheinhessen

One of two local organic wineries doing weißburgunder (though for the consumer confusingly labeled “Weißer Burgunder) and a much fruitier, almost fruit punch, up front and round style of pinot blanc. Lower in acid and really just about the fruit. It’s weisser, meaning whiter, so the question is, how much more white can this pinot be? The answer is none more white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Hamm-Burgkirsch Souvignier Gris Weiss Trocken Zunkunftswein 2022, Rheinhessen

A Piwi grape, German cross between seyval blanc and zähringer created in 1983 by Dr. Norbert Becker. Strange that it was originally thought to be a cross between cabernet sauvignon and bronner and maybe because the grapes are quite dark pink in colour. The idea is sauvignon gris meets viognier and the style is not far from that type of union. The palate is more tropical and unctuous than what the nose might have indicated but there is a pungency and passion fruit-like note that advances aromatically after a sip is taken. Some sweetness and good acidity. Could really see people enjoying this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Bettenheimer Frühburgunder Trocken Schlossberg 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Germany’s most interesting grape and perhaps its red future is frühburgunder, a.k.a pinot noir précoce or pinot madelaine, a cultivar that needs to be treated without great oak or pressed ambition. This is neither lithe nor heavy but some not so perfect wood makes the texture quite pasty and it settles uncomfortably on the palate. Some green tannin as well – pressed just a bit heavy it feels. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Wasem Doppelstück Pinot Noir Trocken Ingelheimer Pares 2020, Rheinhessen

Some micro oxidative notes at this three-plus year stage though also a taut and compact sensation both on the nose and palate. Rich glycerin and viscous, plenty of cherry and cherry stone bitters for complexity but also a harshness at the finish. Doppelstück is a barrel name where more than one family makes wines but this pinot noir is made by two sisters of the family’s next generation – Doppelstück, meaning twice as big as a regular sized barrel. Very promising varietal wine, just a bit heavy pressed at this stage in its tenure. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Menk Frühburgunder Trocken 2021, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Fresh and energetic frühburgunder with a briny note but some nice fresh raspberry fruit with leafy accents. Palate is a bit syrupy while overall acidity and drive are quite good. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Baum-Barth Ingelheimer Frühburgunder 2021, Rheinhessen

Good ripe fruit, a bit oxidative but the bottle has been open for a few days. That said the tannic structure and energy are clearly based on an uptick of quality and overall intensity is really fine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Sebastian Münster Frühburgunder Cosmographia 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Fine and well made frühburgunder with a lactic way about it and fruit really well connected to the structural aspect of the wine. A bit of red fruit paste and austere tannins so there is potential and the pressing was done with some fine restraint. No overriding green tannin but a tisane quality is part of the deal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Good to go!

godello

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WineAlign

Abruzzo, from the mountains to the sea

Sep26

Ausonia (Atri, Teramo)

In the last days of February and first days of March the focus zeroed in on Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, “flagship grape of our region,” in the words of Franco D’Eusanio, Vice-President of the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo. The Abruzzo Wine Experience served a threefold purpose, to present the Anteprima Colline Teramane DOCG, a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC preview and allow journalists to make visits with regional producers. Success was achieved in all three ways, from insight into Colline Teramane’s specificities, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC’s continuing evolution and the hyper-intense passion, dedication and growth experienced through the work of several Abruzzo estates.

Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is Abruzzo’s only DOCG appellation. Situated on the border with Marche, in the hills around Teramo, it was previously a sub-zone of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, elevated to DOCG status in 2003. “Colline Teramane is not just an appellation for Montepulciano grapes,” explains Enrico Cerulli Irelli, former president of the Consorzio Colline Teramane, “but it is a designation that indicates a territory where people, traditions, environment, and history have defined viticulture and with it, the unique identity of the wines. Today, this excellence becomes the flagship in the world of the outstanding quality of Abruzzo wines.”

Abruzzo Program

While being naturally predisposed to viticulture may not separate Abruzzo from dozens of other Italian wine regions, what has thus far challenged its global market share will only make it stronger. Rome (and Italy’s most used, largest airport) is only a few hours away and anyone with half an ability to read a map can clearly find it smack dab in the central part of Italy. Yet Abruzzo finds itself isolated, both literally and conceptually, located between the Adriatic Sea and the massifs of Gran Sasso d’Italia and Majella, within which three National Parks and more than ten national and regional reserves are situated. The region can be divided into two zones: the mountainous interior, which constitutes over 65 percent of the entire regional territory, along with the coastal area with its wide hilly belt. A traveller could find weeks of interest in these hills and along hundreds of kilometres of Adriatic shoreline and still somehow Abruzzo is considered “out there.” There is the rub; the region should and going forward will in fact attract an adventure seeker yet once inside its ropes the more obvious and accessible tenets of its offerings will be revealed. This will trickle down to more conventional tourism, both that which is associated with wine and also not, and before too long Abruzzo will become known to all.

The climate of the region is Mediterranean along the coast, with sea breezes moderating temperatures. It becomes more continental as one moves towards the hilly and mountainous areas, and with increasing altitude, temperature variations become more pronounced. The average level of precipitation is good, less on the coast and more abundant inland.

Godello in Atri with unidentified cat

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is undoubtedly the most representative among the Abruzzo grape varieties. Numerous historical documents demonstrate that the grape has been present in the region since the mid-1700s, where it found its ideal terrain. Cultivated in the past in the Valle Peligna (province of L’Aquila) and in the inland hills of the province of Pescara, since the 1950s its cultivation has spread throughout the entire coastal hilly belt, and today it constitutes the main red grape variety of the region. Alone, it represents over 80 percent of the total denomination wines produced in Abruzzo and is among the top three DOC wines produced in Italy. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is obtained solely from vineyards located in hilly or plateau terrain, whose altitude must not exceed 600 meters above sea level, exceptionally up to 700 meters for those facing south; the surface area on which it is cultivated is around 17,000 hectares. It is almost exclusively obtained from grapes of the same variety. With approximately 800,000 hectoliters bottled (2023 data), it is established as one of the top DOC wines produced in Italy.

Abruzzo wine dinner at Hotel Cristalo, Giulianova

The Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo is a non-profit associative body tasked with the protection, promotion, and overall care of interests related to the denominations it oversees. It was established in 2003 by Decree of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (MiPAF) and over the past three years its membership has grown by 20 percent, reaching the current count of 220 members, representing over 4,000 producers of DOC and IGT grapes. The Consortium oversees compliance with the regulatory discipline of the denominations, formulates any proposals for updating it, and coordinates the work of the production sectors to enhance the individual denominations. The Consortium protects the wines with the Designation of Controlled Origin:

Colline Teramane DOCG
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
Abruzzo DOC
Villamagna DOC

Starting from the 2024 harvest, with the entry into force of the “Abruzzo Model,” all IGT wines will be grouped under the single Terre d’Abruzzo IGT designation. Starting from the 2023 harvest, the subregion “San Martino sulla Marruccina” has been introduced, joining the existing subregion “Terre dei Vestini,” “Teate,” “Terre dei Peligni,” and “Alto Tirino.” The most significant novelty is the introduction of the distinctive label Superiore, aimed at highlighting productions characterized by stricter production criteria and intended for refinement for important and distinctive reserve productions of the various provincial territories. Only for the Superiore designation will it be possible to highlight on the label references to smaller and more identity-affirming territories such as provincial ones and, in the future, even more restricted ones like Additional Geographical Units, until, of course, the individual mention of a Vigna. Both the Superiore and Riserva categories will be required to feature on the label the provincial subregions of Colline Pescaresi, Terre de L’Aquila, and Terre di Chieti.

Godello with the AIS Sommeliers

Obvious thank you from the heart to the team at Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo and IEM Communications out of Verona and Miami, but also to the AIS Sommeliers and La Squadra Abruzzese; Francesca Granelli, Fosca Tortorelli, Simone Roveda and Daniela De Morgex. A good number of Godello’s blind tasting notes came about as a result of careful panel deliberation and collaboration. Here are 140 notes from three days of tasting and touring in Abruzzo.

The Visits

Guardiani Farchione (Tocco da Casauria, Pecara)

Guardiani Farchione Passerina 2023, Colline Pescaresi IGT

A substantial summer white at 13 percent alcohol, dry, phenolic and floral. Green figs, low acid, mineral-metallic savoury and a good match with fatty meats of fish. A passerina with some connection to volcanic soil with an orange note – no zest but a juicing and quite the botanical finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Guardiani Farchione Pecorino Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2023

If it can be the favourite grape of the migrating sheep then why not ours as well, here from the short wood aging in old wood, experimental for some, incidental for others. A honeyed-beeswax note, not surprisingly phenolic and botanical but also woolly, of both gravity and fantasy considered. A thread of spring herbs and juniper late. Not a rich pecorino but one with a little bit of experience. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Guardiani Farchione Mille Papaveri Rosso 2023, Colline Pescaresi IGT

A stronger version of the Cerasuolo normale, a ten day soak that brings montepulciano closer to montepulciano, away from the pale and the delicate. A modern experiment that appeals in a retrospective way to the older way of ordering and drinking red wines in Abruzzo. Quite classic gummy bear fruity of red and blue berries, dry and far from savoury. Fruit essence captured because of the extended maceration and really quite focused to deliver with unapologetic consistency. Glou glou montepulciano and so very clean. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Paolo and Giampaolo Guardiani

Guardiani Farchione Tenuta Del Ceppete 74 2018, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC

Commemorates the year of the first bottled wine for the company by Paolo’s father. Sees two years in cement and 12-18 months in barriques, depending on the season. Another crystal clear varietal wine from Guardiani Farchione. Structured and tannic, long contact with the skins (10-plus days), full textured, cocoa to mocha, meant for (sheep) arrosticini every day you go that way. With a side of sformato you may just rise up to Abruzzo heaven, or in this case the Tocco version of it. Don’t even think of taking any of this for granted. As for the skewers, “any less than five would be a capital sin.” Would like to see this ’18 develop another gear, for energy and integration. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini (Tocco da Casauria, Pecara)

Cantina Terzini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP 2023

From Tocco da Casauria, of clay soils in an old volcanic area and vines trained by Pergola at 350m. Only steel, clean, sharp and suitable. A serviceable white whenever for hot days when a cool glass is needed to quench a thirst. Fresh as fresh can be, helped by Pergola Abruzzese “roof over a house” training. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOP 2023

Pecorino grown in the valley between two massifs, the Maiella and Morrone where day for night temperature swings are great and consistent winds will blow. The endemic Marche grape continues to gain traction in Abruzzo and the history goes back to Benedictine monks in the 1200s. Pale and spicy, quite a lot of intensity for pecorino and again very botanical, a specific Abruzzo style that seems exaggerated in Tocco di Casauria. Not lacking for energy and the very reason why Terzini uses pecorino to make sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP 2023

Skin-contact for six to eight hours, followed by six months in stainless steel. True Cerasuolo, made from only montepulciano grapes, finished at 14 percent alcohol. Clean, crisp, fresh and proper. Just that hint of phenolic grip and spiciness but more subtle than pecorino and stylish in its very respectful Cerasuolo way. Good intensity and what the appellative wine needs to be. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini Abruzzo Rosé DOP 2023

Sparkling montepulciano and in a way Cerasuolo but only at 12 percent alcohol, as fresh as it is savoury and drier than many sparkling Rosé, especially those made in the Italian method. Can’t be more than 10-ish g/L of RS and the acidity is superb. Still a bit phenolic which might turn the sugar crowd away but there is without a doubt good character and energy. For those who simply like sparkling pink – it’s really that simple. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Dumi’ 2022

Domenico Terzini, grandson of Domenico Sr., took the reigns in 2009 and brother Roberto runs the business side of the family winery. Dumi’ is Sr., a pet or nickname in Abruzzo. As in ”Dumi” come here.” Sees juts a few months in wood after stainless steel aging, just a kiss for texture and a year or three of longevity. Reductive in both a rubbery and peppery way, needing agitation to release both floral and fruity charm. Swell of dark fruit and liquorice, mint and heavy fuel phenols. Strong tannins, big time bitters and time is needed in every way. Must be tannin season. Can only imagine what 12-18 months in tonneaux might do. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Terzini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Vigna Vetum 2020

Essentially a Reserve montepulciano, but also a single vineyard or cru. Oldest vines of more than 60 years of age, thus the Latin name. A year in steel and another in barriques. When you think about the recent past of grape and place this is probably just what you would imagine; dark and stormy, rich and oaky, full and substantial fruit, warming and all those wood notes very much in charge. Vanilla, lavender, spice cupboard, tobacco, mocha, perceived sweetness and a softness despite the dense presence of tannins. Energy is fine if not invigorating. Solid example for five-plus years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Federico Faraone

Faraone (Mosciano Sant’Angelo, Terame)

Faraone Metodo Classico dal 1983 Dossagio Zero 2021

As with the first bottles made in 1983 by Federico’s father the grape is passerina, first chosen and still the top for Bianco because of pH and acidity on par with Champagne. This means 3.0-3.10 in a good season, as opposed to pecorino which is more like 3.30-plus, meaning closer to a red wine. On the lees for 24 months, mild toasty quality, impeccable balance really and dry as it gets because you can find richness without dosage from the grape and place. Acidity is admirable though just a point one or two below what would really see this sail into scintillant territory. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Metodo Classico dal 1983 Rosé 2019

Made with sangiovese, 100 per cent and one of the very few like this in Abruzzo. First trials began in 2010 and 2017 was the first production for selling. The sangiovese sees 48 months on the lees and while there is a rustic earthy quality there is also higher acidity and surely double the complexity as compared to the passerina bianco. Crisp enough but also a sparkling of body and a sense of what can be considered soul. Interestingly it is a sip of the sangiovese and a return to the passerina that makes the Bianco’s acidity seem greater. Counterintuitive but true. Meanwhile there are some fine phenolic bitters on the finish of the sangiovese. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2022

Properly fresh and conversely phenolic trebbiano but neither character overwhelm or dominate in any way or sternly towards one another. More scented than many, not what should be considered perfume but more in the vein of plants you brush by in between vineyard rows and on the lower steps of hillsides in the mountains. Pencil shavings and while the grape may seem “neutral” this young it does suggest hints of what may come a few years down the road. Good acidity and low pH for teasers of the sea but please, only in season. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2019

Just beginning to develop and express some nuance and next stage character but in the hands of Federico and Faraone this is really just a baby. Now the citrus steps up and rises to the fore to make us think that acidity has risen but phenolics have lessened, or at least our perception of them. A mild lemon preserve, a balance so consistent with the 2022 tasted side by side and then an about face to the side by each comparison with 2013. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2013

After 10-plus years the perception really changes and the arena now entered is entirely re-designed and thoughts must be re-written. Fully and completely in delivery of secondary notes, by vanilla, not wood derived but naturally vegetal and other verdant sensations having joined the fray. Paraffin and a roasted parsnip character, not quite caramelized but heading in that direction. The age has surely brought secondary notes while freshness would have been finer just two or three years ago. Suggests that seven or eight years is the sweet spot. Drink 2024. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG 2007

A fine vintage for the area, in particular for montepulciano and the juiciness but also fleshy character is about as high as it gets, especially as compared to 2016. It’s almost incredulous how fresh and far from evolved this is for 2007 – it’s a weird magic that’s seems virtually impossible, to note considering this was made by Federico’s father who did not study oenology and learned by his own experience. Successful showing with fresh fruit intact and sweet secondary notes just in their infancy. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Faraone Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG 2016

From 2016 but about as close to a recent release as it gets for Faraone because extra time in botti is the order of necessity for Federico, just as it was for his father before. Refinement in 30-35 year old cask that ever so slowly develops this relationship between grape and its home. Kinds of reminds of Ca’Bionda in Valpolicella, thoughtful, soulful and simply a representation in respect to the exact place from whence it came. Nothing curious about this but something so real and we are given the opportunity to taste exactly what montepulciano from this pinpointed part of the Colline Teramane must be. Controlled and restrained in every way with many years left in its sure to be long life. Lower production because of Perenospera brought on by May rains and so no surprise how high the quality runs because of a warm and dry summer. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno (Roseto degli Abruzzi, Teramo)

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2022

Will hit the market after May the year following vintage, with higher in acidity in this part of the Colline Teramane, now acid driven but with a year or two the citrus will almost surely morph into fruit more tropical in nature. Already there because as a 2022 the early stages of maturity have already begun to form. Good sapidity but lower level phenols than some other similarly composed and minded examples. Bit of balsamico-gariga at the finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Podere Corte della Corte 2022

More phenolic than the pecorino, less salinity and higher sapidity, herbal in a different way, sweeter and less dried conditions. Impeccably balanced using 90 percent trebbiano d’abruzzo with (10) passerina, clearly in the hands of a team most comfortable with this appellative wine. Half fermented in steel and the other in cask with the result another clear and present indication of equality and balance. Clean, no toast and filtered with great technology to deliver a crystalline varietal experience. Should age a year and possibly up to three longer than the pecorino. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC Vermiglio 2022

Super dry Cerasuolo from the montepulciano grape, again extremely clean but also here with the subtlest CO2 buzz. Macerates for seven or more hours and is then separated from the skins. The next steps are white wine method fermentations, allowing for classic appellative colour and most importantly the floral and fruit musky capture of aromas. Soft and stylish, fresh, clear and smoothy sapid. Clinical and precise with a mild cherry stone bitter finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Liburnio 2016, Colli Aprutini Rosso IGT

Based on cabernet sauvignon (70 percent), with (15) malbec, (10) cabernet franc and (5) petit verdot. Liburnio as in Liburnium, along with Corsica. Ages in barriques for three years, followed by the bottle for two more. Sure the richness is the most prominent feature and matter but the ageing has brought this Bordelais-esque wine into a fine place. Softened for the most part, a spice cupboard masala emulsified into the overall silky texture and acidity still pretty much the energy that keeps the wine keeping on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Podere la Regia Specula 2020

Ages for minimum 12 months in 20hL botti of Slavonian wood, a high level and quality vintage by estate and appellation standards, warm and dry – but here affected by TCA. Requires a re-taste. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG 2018

Barriques and tonneaux for 24 months, now showing the softness of age, the montepulciano in dried leathery fruit notes beginning to replace the fresh plum and berries of the wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Orlandi Contucci Ponno Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 1999

Corks were replaced five years ago but this particular bottle was already infected with TCA and so could unfortunately not be saved. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia (Atri, Teramo)

Ausonia Bruco Pet-Nat 2022, Colli Aprutini Bianco Frizzante IGP

The work of Simone and Francesca (Franca) Binelli from Lombardia, he the pharmacist who studied oenology in Florence, she the mechanical engineer. “Natural is the best way to make wine, but not all natural wines are the best,” explains Simone. Their Pét-Nat is made from trebbiano, all in yeasty though quite clean with a raw dough aspect to what must be seen as a unique Abruzzese iteration. Kind of tastes like a Japanese Orin Apple, a connection not often found but there it is. Really drinkable and getable for the genre. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP Apollo 2022

The name Ausonia is from the original name for Italy, as in Auson, sone of Ulysses and father of the Ausone people. The Apollo line trebbiano is only made with fruit from the youngest vineyard, coming away sharp, fresh and phenolic trebbiano, as per the usual, but the biodynamic aspect sure plays a role in its fruit and crisp, just picked vegetable personality. More than most this is a representation of vintage for these particular vineyards. Inherently natural and characterized this way. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOP Machaon 2022

A Canadian connection with Ausone, the name being assigned to one of three 1920s Class “A” Intermediat San Pietro 2022e emigrant and refrigerated cargo carrying ships that sailed from England to Pier 21 in Halifax. The winery’s name however is actually a connection with Italy’s original name. In any case this is wholly unique and excellent pecorino, once again organic and biodynamic through spontaneous fermentation, with only stainless steel aging. Sharp and tight, sweetly tart and clean, fresh and sparked. Great energy and the kind of natural pecorino to pour alongside and eat with sharp salty cheeses and afternoons of the same, all the live long day. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Apollo – San Pietro 2022

The trebbiano aged in fermented without skins in cask and aged in Austrian. A “French” style of trebbiano, first made in 2020, creamy and also tart, spiced and high acid, well captured, kept and energy refuses to wane despite the wood. Actually brings out the aromatics in the grape and the older vines deliver concentration from the cru most important planted in 1984. About as special for trebbiano as it gets from the Colline Teramane. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP Apollo 2022

Fabulous Cerasuolo, full hue, aroma and flavour profile that gives and gives some more. Rich in poly-phenolic compounds with intensities that never relent. Truly generous and fresh, sparked and clean as Cerasuolo to the limit of enhancement for naturally curated montepulciano. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOP Machaon 2022

Sees 10 days of maceration, followed by amphora for 11 months and while this follows suit for so many expected attributes with respect to natural wine aged this way – well the purity of fruit and clean character are at the top of the game. Sure the phenols and the fine bitters are very much a part of the mix but believe it or not a few years of age to resolve the tannins might do more good than bad. Will lead to a pecorino that would be considered affinamento, with the development of refinement and glissade. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Montepulciano Bruco 2022, Colli Aprutini IGP

The sister to the Bianco Frizzante but not sparkling, in fact just the youngest vines and shortest maceration for the most glou-glou montepulciano on the planet. Super juicy and no thought required. Grape juice that’s just about fun. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Apollo 2021

Aged in concrete and a part stays some months in barrel. Just bottled and now released so yes the youngest stage to taste this finished wine. Crisp, croccante and crunchy, of fresh liquorice, tart and juicy. Quite a pure and unadulterated expression, some verdancy and fresh herbs, still a bit austere because the tannins need time to resolve. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Apollo 2021

Amphora montepulciano from which you will feel the oxidation and while the effort is clearly yeoman it would hard to not see this as a work in progress. Bitters and herbs are exaggerated, spices are smoky and the fruit feels charred. Roasted nightshades and real austerity but there are some juicy and energy redeeming qualities. Will feel more generous once the dust settles. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Apollo 2019

Though also organic and biodynamic this is most certainly the most conventional of all the wines made by Simone and Francesca Lodi. Rich, woody, caky and equipped with serious austere tannins. Not the easiest vintage for a montepulciano and Abruzzo but this does well to capture grape and Riserva style. Really well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Tasting team Abruzzo

A baker’s dozen dinner wines

Barba Pecorino Collemorino 2023, Colli Aprutini IGT

Just a 60 days stay on the fine lees but that works to great fresh advantage for Barba’s properly herbal and still truly fleshy pecorino. Catches and captures the variety’s Abruzzese essence with a posit tug effected between salty and creamy. Delightful example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

San Lorenzo Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOC 2023, Teramo – Castilenti

Oily and phenolic, somewhat brooding or as much as this can happen with pecorino. A resemblance with viognier or perhaps more akin to some verdicchio at the elevated style where ripeness and alcohol become the discerning factors. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta I Fauri Pecorino d’Abruzzo Vino Biologico 2022, Chieti

Perfectly ideal and comfortable middle ground with two varietal feet firmly planted into the ground for pecorino gifting the holy trinity – Salinity, sapidity and roborant herbology. This translates as a combined feeling gained that is at first phenolic, followed by creamy, oily and finally grippy pecorino. The salts are elementally mineral, drawn up and into a wine expressive of Chieti, from the mountains to the sea. Botany, grapes and seasoning in the glass. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Bossanova Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Contraguerra 2022

Same skin-contact style as before and a similar result though the acetic quality is tamed from 2022. A tisane effect now, which is in fact something proper as it pertains to making skin-macerated whites but once again this lacks the necessary lustre and medium-scintillant behaviour that makes the genre successful. I am a big fan of Bossanova’s montepulciano work but the orange idiom feels forced and not (yet) quite understood. Tasted February 2024

Nicodemi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Cocciopesti 2021, Notaresco

Raising takes place in clay pots for trebbiano of character and style. Not to mention colour, texture and a sapidity elevated to the nth degree. High phenolic presence which means a grippy treb, metallic and famously Abruzzese personality. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Cerulli Spinozzi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Torre Miglioro 2021, Canzano

A trebbiano of a developing idea and story, rich and rising to the edge of phenolic danger, without crossing over. Sapidity in droves, precious gem and metal sheen, some reduction but again things settle themsleves in the face of potential adversity. All things considered this is quite successful and certainly more interesting than Cerulli Spinozzi’s Gruè trebbiano. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Terraviva Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC Mario’s 48 2022, Colline Teramane – Tortoreto

Some reduction requiring resolution but there is breadth, a broad swath of fruit and necessary stuffing to set this up well. The grip and also balance say drink now but also look to see what’s coming around the next few corners. Fulsome, fleshy enough but also grounded. The potential is there. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Masciarelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC Castello Di Semivicoli 2020

Tasting 28 months later and this trebbiano has resolved into a straight shooter. Simple, easy and little complexity. Still a serviceable example. Last tasted February 2024

Candied florals in sugary perfume as if white cotton candy or a confectioners’ marshmallow vein. Soft, downy and light, smooth and suave trebbiano. Drink 2021-2022. Tasted October 2021

Bucciacatino Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Biologico 2022, Chieti – Vacri

Another straight shooter of varietal mineral truth, plant extracts and elements run through. Some flesh to back it up for quality trebbiano of easy accessibility. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Le Vigne Di Faraone Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2023, Terame – Giulianova

Terrific by appellation standards, so proper and extremely satisfying. Fruit, acids, tannin and flesh are all onside. Not just arch classic but the sort of Cerasuolo to consider eliminating the use of montepulciano grapes for red wine. Sorry, not sorry and funny, not funny because when the varietal result is this delicious meeting the profound, well you understand the hyperbole. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Ciavolich Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP Fosso Cancelli 2021, Loreto Aprutino

Transparently scintillant and lithe example of montepulciano as if from another era, yet so clean and modern for today. Sharp Cerasuolo of excitement, seductive because its eyes never wander and it wears high-level emotions of generosity and empathy on its sleeves. Yet it is somehow troubled, unstable in youth and for a 2021 Cerasuolo you would have thought’d should be past the tense and nervous stage. But it is not and that is surely part of the fascination. Cheese note on the nose (ha ha pecorino) with lightning quick reflexes to extol the virtues of fruit combined with sweet acidity for excitations and exultations of a higher order. In the end Fosso Cancelli acts out a passion play for an appellative dichotomy wrapped inside a paradox. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024

Stefania Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Pepe Bianco 2020

Natural smoulder and flint struck, a glissade of trebbiano made from old vines requiring a listen because its speaks in passionate tones. Flint monster in fact, that smoulder in surfeiting seduction, full on willing, able to please yet 2020 is still not quite ready. For some the unresolved sulphides and smokiness will give a heavy feeling but where is the hurry? There is a glou-glou effect behind the veil and given another year there should be no distraction. There is sex appeal inherent do don’t be shy or this will will walk all over you. Just try to enjoy the rapture. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted February 2024

Abruzzo Wine Experience

Colline Termane

Bossanova Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Il Bossa 2022, Colline Teramane – Controguerra

Inviting straight away. Spices and chalk on the nose, complexities bounding with immediacy for a smart, tart and fresh montepulciano announcing its arrival. Lots of wood though that feeling of older and bigger format very much involved. Classic liquorice and unlit tobacco, spices again and again, long through to the finale. No denying the quality of the tannins. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Terraviva Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Terraviva 2022, Colline Teramane – Tortoreto

More than notably reductive, at the top for such a distinction with montepulciano locked in oh so tight. Spiced and lit to the hilt, almost flinty with some unresolved sulphides as well. Wood a major factor and time essential to see development and evolution take this somewhere positive. Quite frankly feels like a barrel sample still. The jury is out and in the end may very well (or not) be hung. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted March 2024

Barba Yang Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2022, Colline Teramane – Roseta degli Abruzzi

Brightness and freshness at the foremost of importance and clarity reels high for what has to be a montepulciano to drink both early and then four to five easy years of sliding, gliding and effortlessly developing maturity. A hint of semi-carbonic pulse, a buzz of energy and notes through chalky tannin that suggest waiting a year or two. My if this dopes not resemble Cru Beaujolais, especially Fleurie with the bold and floral notes. Not particularly typical at this stage but so curious and perhaps still a factor of campione (tank sample). Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Fosso Corno Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Il Grande Silenzio 2021, Colline Teramane – Roseta degli Abruzzi

Weedy, dill pickles and nettles – surely problematic, either from the wood or a moment of danger near the latter stages of alcoholic fermentation. Tasted March 2024

Cerulli Spinozzi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Gruè 2021, Colline Teramane – Canzano

Fine if reserved, reductive, stoic and its freshness locked in tight. Aromas are caught behind the walls of acidity, tannin and reduction though the latter is nothing more than a thin veil of currency. Great acids actually and fine-grained chalky tannins, nearly ready to open and reveal the true florals of the wine. Wood is important here but it is good quality and used judiciously. Could very well still be fermenting. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Antonini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG P. 121 2021, Colline Teramane – Ancarano

The barrel first and foremost, indicative of American oak, of vanilla, lavender and coconut, not unlike Rioja Reserva. Lacks the body politic and stuffing to keep up with the wood. In the end that’s all there will be. That said there are fans of the style. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted March 2024

Velenosi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Versosera 2021, Colline Teramane – Controguerra

If a montepulciano could be classified and considered as classically modern than this would fit that ideal to a “T.” Or a “V” in this case, for valedictorial conduct and victory. Rich and delicious, full and substantial, wood used generously and also properly for a fine weave of fruit and vessel in easy intertwine. Drying at the finish yet floral and naturally sweet berries without pause or distraction. A prime and proper Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG with just that small hint of danger-inducing oxidation, though also one that speaks for all in a truly fruitful way. Drink this now because that oxidative suggestion will develop within two years. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Ausonia Apollo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane – Atri

Quiet, youthful and reserved, reminiscent of old school styles prevalent in recent past epochs but truthfully they can be well made and delivered examples of montepulcioano. As here with quality fruit, nothing mind-blowing but the weight and balance are well maintained. Simpler than some, not perfectly clean and yet made with heritage and traditional purpose. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted March 2024

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane – Torano Nuovo

Fattoria Nicodemi Notari Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane- Notaresco

Fine, straight-faced, laces tied tight, lean and linear issue of montepulciano as Colline Termane for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG. Cool, salt-licked, stony and also vertical. Will not live past this decade but will soon begin to offer up a soothing and cool glass in the short term. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Antares 2021, Colline Teramane – Castilenti

Aromas of red onion skin and pickling spices. Vintage directed and the sort of montepulciano that has listened to the season’s wind to deliver just what was on order. Fruit juicy, punchy and simple, if also pleasing, serviceable and effective. All parts that follow are equal and consistent with the first. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Abbazia di Propezzano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane – Morro d’Oro

Reductive, tart and woolly, working through fermentative machinations with both manic and lactic undertones. Needs to settle and function confidentially within itself, though time will also dry out the fruit. Try to find the sweet spot two or three years down the road. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Cioti Alarius Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane – Paterno

Fresh, semi-carbonic, still in a bubble gum and candy floss time frame. Tart and simple, wood not such a distraction though the montepulciano tannins cannot be ignored. Their drying and savoury qualities are not so in synch with the fruitiness and will never fully come together. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Morganti Nina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2021, Colline Teramane – Torano Nuovo

Much interest to start if also demure but there are florals and sweets natural red fruit scents that do invite further inquiry. The palate is furry, woollen and just that right amount of swarthy so again, curiosity runs high to look for complexities and fascinations to come. Chewy and tannic, in fact this is montepulciano that you truly sink your teeth into. Will mature and oxidize with beauty and old soul character to drink with distinction several years forward. Pay attention to the signs and see what lays ahead. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Strappelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 2020, Colline Teramane – Torano Nuovo

Super reductive to block receptors and hide away potential. There are hints of beauty and charm back there but a warm and grippy vintage is reluctant to give away too much, too early. Firm and also marked by ripe acids that control and also keep the fruit’s emotions in check. The potential for great positivity and true to appellation drinking should not be ignored nor denied. This will find its way. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted March 2024

Fosso Corno Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Orsus 2020, Colline Teramane – Roseta degli Abruzzi

A Riserva of montepulciano that relies on the barrels for most of its character and while the further aging time in vessels should develop more structure (and will) there is a bit too much distraction involved. Once again it is a Rioja-like stylistic that comes to mind and that is not a great look for Abruzzo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Terraviva Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Terraviva 2020, Colline Teramane – Tortoreto

Floral, candied nose, tart and distracting because of the way wood interposes against the simplicity of fruit. Odd in many ways, relatively clean yet oddly fermentative in its freshness seeking way. Unusual Riserva style and hard to understand. In the end the tannins are brittle and crumble under pressure. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Fattoria Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Luì 2020, Colline Teramane – Notaresco

No real surprise from grape and appellation because substance is next level and acids well heeded to support and drive the point forward. There is a lot of wood to resolve but it too helps and acts as a catalyst to make all parts of this montepulciano feel naturally sweet and connected. The style is normal and the execution well accomplished. A clean 2020 with plenty of life ahead. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Illuminati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Pieluni 2019, Colline Teramane – Controguerra

Plenty of wood and somewhat forced upon the fruit and our senses in that regard though this will serve an important purpose moving forward. Fruit quality is quite fine if not yet feeling precise and the style is one of winemaking to create a structured wine that will last a good long time. But the style will always be front and centre for a montepulciano by way of the Colline Termane’s professional construct. Tastes like a $60 J. Lohr Red, at the peak of Abruzzo commerciality and impressive all the same. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Bizzarro 2019, Colline Teramane – Torano Nuovo

No surprise that Riserva for montepulciano is so much about up front wood from a wine going back to 2019 that delivers this swaying kind of feeling. Tang, tart and controlled intensity of parts moving together in ways that just seem better and more tightly gathered than many. It’s a style and one issued on repeat but some producers do this better than others. As here because the acidity is forceful yet sweet and the culminating balsamico note clearly indicates a sense of place. That would be Torano Nuovo and here the sub-zone is promoted through a fine 2019. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted March 2024

Centorame Castellum Venus (Campione Vasca) Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG 2019, Colline Teramane – Atri

Going back four and a half to five years with a still reductive montepulciano though cleaner than it at first seemed. Dark, cool, sweetly savoury fruit with tobacco, liquorice, fennel, espresso and finishing spice. Plenty of character and complexity but also a linear traction and tractive ascent. Grips the rungs and the tracks without hover or disconnect to express fruit and place (that being Atri) with distinction. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Escol 2019, Colline Teramane – Castilenti

An oaky feeling from the start with American notes of coconut and here also blanched nuts. The fruit wants to shine through, of currants and pomegranate, culminating at a proper balsamico shudder but the wood is all over this mess of fruit. Wholly distracting from start to finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Fattoria Giuseppe Savini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG 2019, Colline Teramane – Castilenti

As fresh and fruit forward as Riserva for montepulciano will be to tell us maturity and resolution have arrived – with thanks to simply and judiciously used wood. Yes, a simple and easy drinking Teramane example but thankful it neither reeks nor swells with barrel overuse. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Colonnella Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Barocco 2019, Colline Teramane – Colonnella

Oddly carbonic for a Riserva level appellative montepulciano but sometimes the style will dominate the aromas no matter how or why. Presents a bubble gum fruitiness and also leathery compaction with fruit the main factor in the wine. Sweet acids to be sure and while a consumer might be unaware of what they are drinking, many will find delight. That said you have to know that to other local producers an eyebrow of concern would be raised in reaction to the style. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Montori Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG Fonte Cupa 2019, Colline Teramane – Controguerra

Quite thick, rich and emulsified montepulciano with all parts integrated, resolving and coming together. Fine acidity is this 2019, leading the construction and fully entrenched as catalyst for the quality Colline Teramane fruit. Clean and proper, ready to drink and willing to please for two-plus years or more. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Strappelli Colle Trà Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG 2019, Colline Termane – Torano Nuovo

Dio mio so much up front and in charge wood on this 2019 Riserva made in the ways of grand Italian selections, trying in a most sincere attempt to access old school charm and grace. Succeeds to a pick the best barrels degree, yet neither fruit source nor a true sense of place are in play. More about style, structure and winemaking and yet there is no denying the precision and clarity of the execution. Has its place and many will find the neo-classicism in its ways. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Biagi Ipnosi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOCG 2018, Colline Termane – Colonnella

Chewy and caky example of montepulciano that clearly indicates Riserva style with more than a marked presence of French wood. Vanilla, lavender and emulsified elements to create a swirl of floral, fruity and woody elements. No shock to find such an example and many will be comfortable with this glass. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Terre di Chieti

Azienda Till Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Lupus 2022, Terre di Chieti – Casoli

Open, fragrant, floral and naturally sweet fruit forward montepulciano. Clean and bright, fresh as the day it was born and bottled, stopping only it seems for a few months in steel. Ideal entry point with hints at but no real showing from and for wood. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta I Fauri Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Baldovino 2022, Terre di Chieti

Extremely youthful with that natural feel by carbonic pulse, fresh and gassy fruit and sweetly reductive. Simple in a way but so getable and appealing to a naive and willing crowd. Something lactic about it and for those set in their ways this may act uncomfortably primary but the glou-glou style will woo and kill it with the bottle shop crowd. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Ulisse Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Ulisse 2022, Terre di Chieti – Crecchio

Openly fragrant, clean and inviting, fresh bouquet of just cut flowers and sliced red fruit. No wood soak to consider as a distraction so really just fruit and nothing but the fruit. Freshness incarnate urged forward by equally clean and even racy acidity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Cerretano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Angizia 2022, Terre di Chieti – Orsogno

A bit closed yet über fresh, spirited and lifted montepulciano. Perhaps a short stay in barrel this time because the spices and textures are also raised to move alongside the red and blackberry fruit. Well made and an excellent entry point. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Frentana Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Frentano 2022, Terre di Chieti – Rocca San Giovanni

Fresh, fruity, slightly candied and easy montepulciano to once again explain the high fructose and bright content provided by 2022. Solid entry level activity right here. A hit of Amaro bitters at the finish. Spot on. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Tollo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Insetti Bio 2022, Terre di Chieti – Tollo

Tight and reductive though not far from its impending release. Crisp and crunchy, tart and salty, even with a slight botanical bite as well. Solid with just a kiss of barrel for texture and structure. Will age a year and then drink well for three more. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Vigneti Radica Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Vigneti Radica Bio 2022, Terre di Chieti – Tollo

Lighter and brighter village example from Tollo, tart and even sour-edged red berries with very minimal (if any) wood influence. An herbal side here, verdant and a bit rustic but there is plenty of bright energy and succulence in the mix. Noting the wood more on the palate with a caky and even chalky feel that is also surely provided by the distinct terroir. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Jasci & Marchesani Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Bio 2022, Terre di Chieti – Vasto

Classic perfume and style, salty upfront for montepulciano with florals part fresh and part dried. Rich as need be, full and substantial on the mid palate and then a return to savoury and also salty at the finish. Really good barrel usage and integration. Clean and classic. Will age a bit. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Cascina del Colle Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Ducaminimo 2022, Terre di Chieti – Villamagna

More spices and spiciness on the nose than almost any of the montepulciano 2022s, more wood noted as well though integrated into both fruit and acidity. A well designed and executed package from a well-formed example, if not as big in terms of vintage expectation. Excellent drive and length. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted March 2024

Famiglia de Cerchio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Valle Maris 2022, Terre di Chieti – Villamagna

Lighter, brighter, leaner and also lifted montepulciano from 2022, liner and vertical, salty and conversely sapid. A crunchy wine that needs time to resolve its chalky tannins and mildly bitter Amaro back side. Potential is good though hard to shake the feeling that wood usage is just a bit heavy handed. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted March 2024

Casal Thaulero Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Orsetto Oro 2021, Terre di Chieti – Ortona

Rich if also a bit forced, a montepulciano 2021 of fruit not up to snuff and so wood fills in the holes. Just feels like a made wine with overbearing intervention. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Fantini Group Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Casale Vecchio 2021, Terre di Chieti – Ortona

Basic, clean and sharp montepulciano, heavy wood and a spoonful of medicine. Contrived and very “made.” Tasted March 2024

Nododivino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Monovarietale 2020, Terre di Chieti – Ortona

Problematic aromas, medicinal and artificial. Sweet, of confection and powdery accents. Basic and serviceable in a pinch. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Frentana Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Torre Vinaria 2020, Terre di Chieti – Rocca San Giovanni

Perfumed if obtusely so, not exactly floral but something exotic, dried and spiced. The whole cupboard here, a masala of many aromas and flavours that for now confuse the overall plan but when the wine resolves there will be better understanding. A rich proposition and a complex one at that. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Olivastri Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC La Grondaia 2020, Terre di Chieti – San Vito Chietino

Reductive and tart, tight and nutty. Lots of wood involved but thankfully there is a brightness and an energy provided by the acidity. Finishes at balsamico and that is a fine way to leave off. Length is very good. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Fonetico Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Cocca di Casa 2020, Terre di Chieti – Vasto

The entry is neither floral nor fruit perfumed but there is a musky skin and salumi scent that provides interest. The barrel work is high level and well used, not yet integrated but the acidity does the yeoman to move things swimmingly along. A fine example of mid-weight for mid-term aging and complexity developing with a few years in bottle. A bit commercial with smokiness and toasted nuts, but ultimately solid. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Cascina del Colle Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Mammut 2020, Terre di Chieti – Villamagna

Solid, oaky, toasty, tobacco lit and also reductive montepulciano. Really spicy and charred on the palate. Almost feels like they could be secretly growing carmenère in Abruzzo. Absurdities aside there are aspects of this montepulciano that excite and riase eyebrows, of holy roasted peppers, verdancy and char. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Colline Pescaresi

Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Il Vino dal Traghetto Bio 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Bolognano

Artificial, bland and lifeless. No biodiversity, complexity or life to be found. The result of what happens in a vineyard translated into wine. Tasted March 2024

Contesa Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Contesa 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Collecorvino

Perfectly fruity, fine and lifted montepulciano. Quiet, simple and introductory to speak of grape and place. Teachable, educational and spot on at the level it intends to discuss. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Talamonti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Modà 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Loreto Aprutino

Basic, clean, vaguely complex, conversely tannic and utilitarian montepulciano. May not express a true sense of place but does confidently and properly speak for the greater good. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Arabona Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Mia Natura Bio 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Manoppello

Fresh, mildly carbonic, spiced, white peppery, fragrant and generous. Mild oak work and usage, sliding and gliding across the palate, gracious texture and well defined finish. Very solid and proper example. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Chiusa Grande Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Vinosophia 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Nocciano

Really notable for the juicy and succulent character and clearly montepulciano treated with the respect it deserves to shine. The wood is indeed felt in mouthfeel but only for a moment before a full on wet of the appetite occurs. Arrosticini happens next. Last tasted March 2024

Light and fresh, expressly clean and impressively so, inviting to a fine varietal degree without any real wood distraction. More so on the palate but as an entry level or a half step up from there this does the trick to envier, invite, entice and deliver correct responses. Nocciano for the early win. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted February 2024

Tenuta Pescarina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Torre Bio 2022, Colline Pescaresi – Spoltore

Reductive and a bit dirty, crisp and also a note of char. This is not clean wood nor does it do the fruit any favours. Tasted March 2024

Chiusa Grande Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC In Petra 2021, Colline Pescaresi – Nocciano

A bright and perfumed montepulciano, tart and expressive but mostly on the nose. A good chalkiness and more substance coming later with a gap up the middle thankfully not filled in by wood. Yeoman work from 2022 which may not be the grandest vintage of the last five, yet here still well represented. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

Ciavolich Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Divus 2020, Colline Pescaresi – Loreto Aprutino

First montepulciano of swarthy interest from a flight 27-in strong and while some may feel the brittle possibilities there can be no doubt that character and potential exist in this bigger 2020. Rich and expressive, the Brettanomyces a potential danger but for now we’ll accept the rest of the wine as something into which we are curious to partake. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Caprera Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC La Vasche 2020, Colline Pescaresi – Pietronico

Fine, caky and well developed example of montepulciano, wood used too a high degree but already beginning to integrate without issue. A medium-bodied and good acid inflected example that serves a purpose, to exult grape and place as well as can be reasoned, seasoned and expected. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Pescarina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Mascolino 2020, Colline Pescaresi – Spoltore

Full disclosure Montepulciano, rich and full vintage developed fruit, high toned and expressive. A whole whack of fruit, acidity and tannin combining for the whole package delivered. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted March 2024

Teramo

Barone di Valforte Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2023, Teramo – Silvi

As much fruit perfume and palate presence as any with high acidity, lift and only the gentlest amount of swarthiness. This will appeal to both lovers of clean wines and also natural wine aficionados that look for the cleaner examples. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Centrorame Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Scuderie Ducali 2023, Teramo, Atri

Touch of reduction but also confection from wood in a montepulciano that will need some time to develop charm and hopefully also some grace. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Velenosi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Prope 2022, Teramo – Ancarano

Fruit at the fore, berries in full force, perfumed if not exactly floral and wood very much in the mix if not wholly aligned with the fruit. Perfectly reasoned and seasoned example that serves great purpose in the short term. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted March 2024

San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Aldebaran 2022, Teramo – Castilenti

Fruity and aromatic with fruit pulp and skin perfumes that really stand at the fore. Full flavour and wood well integrated without spiciness or caky spice. Good seasoning if not high complexity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Biagi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2022, Teramo – Colonnella

Medicinal and artificial. Smoky and caky textured. No joy in Colonnella-ville. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Collonella Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Parhelia 2022, Teramo

Reductive and peppery, slight rubbery feel and plenty of wood though the lift meeting drying sensation speak to potential. Though the tannins are severe and even austere there is something strong that indicates more charm a few years down the road. Remains to be seen. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Illuminati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riparosso 2022, Teramo – Controguerra

Brighter than some but simpler than many. Clean, fresh and unexciting. No complexities to speak of, nor austerity in the tannins neither. Chill a bit for just a good glass of montepulciano. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta Morganti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Dolcenera, Affinamento in Anfora 2022, Teramo – Controguerra

Lovely brightness and freshness from a wine that expectation might have see it being moved or leaning in another direction but grace and charm are tops for this montepulciano. So much beauty and a wine that holds your attention for as long as you are willing to abide. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

La Quercia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Peladi 2022, Teramo – Morro d’Oro

Solid work with oak for fruit of a big if not grand vintage and as 2022 is concerned this finds the way. The way with lots of wood but fruit, acidity and tannins are all sweet to the edge of energy from which the palate draws invigoration. Nothing incendiary or enervating here but instead a wine that works the glass and room with style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted March 2024

Orlando Contucci Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Rubiolo 2022, Teramo, Roseto degli Abruzzi

Reductive in a part rubbery and part peppery way, with cool fruit and austere tannins. Lots of wood to resolve and scores to settle. Another montepulciano for which the phrase “remains to be seen” must be employed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Centorame Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC San Michele 2021, Atri

Reductive and tight, clean and pure behind the shell and a montepulciano with plenty of notable French oak. Seasoned and spiced but also spicy. There will be many fans of the style. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Cirelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Anfora 2021, Atri

Simple, clean and very fruity without strings or exceptionalities. Basic and far from complex. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Fattoria Giuseppe Savini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Rondineto 2021, Morro d’Oro

Off-putting aromas to indicate microbial activity. Problematic and not correct. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Strappelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Torano Nuovo

Quite tight and reductive for 2021, not yet having moved through its workings surely inner and implosive in design. A crunchy and crisp example for which the wood is a great helper but acidity is the true driver. No the mid-palate is not fully formed but surely this will be an example that needs to be re-tasted again and again to see how it is progressing and will continue to do so. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024

San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Casabianca 2020, Castilenti

Big montepulciano, muscular and intense, full frontal, fit substantial and ready for anything that comes its way. Good if not exceptional acidity, lots of sweetening wood and then bigger tannins. An ambitious example that needs years to mature and will surely show truffle and possibly also porcini in its future. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted March 2024

Illuminati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Ilico 2020, Controguerra

Tight yet not reductive, rich and oak caky, textured with tart edginess and really tight tannins. Austere even but there is plenty of substance involved. A big wine that’ll have broad appeal once it integrates and settles down. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted March 2024

Podere San Massimo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Colle Rosso 2020, Giulianova

Decaying matter. Tasted March 2024

La Quercia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC La Quercia 2020, Morro d’Oro

Reductive and truly savoury but specifically tomato – the leaves and also a thick-skinned cherry variety. Tannins are brittle and so there is a yeasty aspect that creates this issue. What to make of this chaotic montepulciano? Drink 2025-2026. Tasted March 2024

Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Casanova 2020, Torano Nuovo

An improvement aromatically speaking for the oft challenging and sometimes tragic 2020s. Plenty of substantial fruit and richness though also some bitters and rusticity. This is montepulciano that flies all over the map and the question is where will it land? Likely in secondary character that feels mushroom, brothy, earthy and tannic. Drink 2025-2028. An improvement aromatically speaking for the oft challenging and sometimes tragic 2020s. Plenty of substantial fruit and richness though also some bitters and rusticity. This is montepulciano that flies all over the map and the question is where will it land? Likely in secondary character that feels mushroom, brothy, earthy and tannic. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024. Tasted March 2024

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Malandrino 2022, Terre dell’Aquila – Ofena

Now here flies out a perfume not yet nosed in 50-plus previous examples of montepulciano from Abruzzo. But also a strange advance of flavours that feel lost in time, therapeutic and curative. Shows that iron and iodine quality. Hard to find the true joy, especially in this youthful stage. Sit on this montepulciano for at leats a year – it surely represents its place. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Girovago 2021, Terre dell’Aquila – Ofena

Fulsome, substantial, full-bodied and all in montepulciano with fruits, acidities and sweet tannins all in line. A perfect storm of the holy trinity and trilogy that will see the best of all worlds for 2020 from Terre dell’Aquila. Surprising and what joy to come across this special wine. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Tonì 2021, Terre dell’Aquila – Ofena

Briny and salty with other reductive assets set this up for a different sort of advance. Hard to see the forest through the herbaceous trees and spices run amok but once again time will almost certainly be the ally. Not to mention the catalyst to explain how such a montepulciano is surely one to define its location. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Inalto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Campo Affamato 2020, Terre dell’Aquila – Ofena

Really tight and full on in Riserva-plus style that will need years to integrate, resolve and ultimately mature. More than most. Yes there is plenty of wood and also a swarthiness about the volatile compounds circulating around fruit but my goodness the stuffing and therefore potential are great. Come back in four years. Drink 2027-2034. Tasted March 2024

Tenuta i Fauri Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Vigna Santa Cecilia 2020, Terre di Chieti – Chieti

Lighter and brighter than some Riserva but just as substantial in terms of fruit and acidity than any from the 2020 vintage. Really chalky and still austere as far as tannins are concerned, but there is some great and purposeful reasoning to see this live a very long life. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Pasetti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Testarossa 2020, Terre di Chieti – Francavilla al Mare

True purpose for bright varietal fruit matched against serious structure put this Riserva in promising steading because the fruit is pitted up towards the wall of tannin. Holy moly is this a serious and potentially impressive wine. Again the facts are facts and the rest remains to be seen. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted March 2024

Casal Thaulero Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Duca Thaulero 2020, Terre di Chieti – Ortona

A bit of pickling here, more spice than brine but nevertheless the seasoning is markedly driven by wood. The fruit is strong and for the most part stands up to the task but the middle palate wanes and so wood wins in the end. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Citra Vini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Caroso Limited Edition 2020, Terre di Chieti – Ortona

Rich and caky, a very barrel directed example of montepulciano that for Chieti does in fact do well to fill in the mid palate. Ultimately black forest cake in style and as an example that will live long if not far away from secondary and even tertiary notes taking centre stage. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted March 2024

Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Marina Cvetic ISKRA 2020, Terre di Chieti – San Martino sulla Marruccina

Mamma Mia all oak and very little else. The fruit tries to poke through the woody and woollen clouds but fails to express itself with any truly credible opposite of confusion. Will become more and more about wood as time goes by. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted March 2024

Famiglia De Cerchio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Colle Maggio 2020, Terre di Chieti – Villamagna

Unique aromatic perspective, especially for Chieti because the barrel is not the first thought as it pertains to the approach for Riserva style wines. Still there is black forest cake and heavy berry-mocha-chocolate with a toasty aspect that overtakes the rest. A smothered montepulciano. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted March 2024

Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Il Vino dal Tralcetto 2020, Colline Pescaresi – Bolognano

Reductive and mephitic, a dark and dank basement where the air can’t ever clear. Tasted March 2024

Talamonti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Tre Saggi 2020, Colline Pescaresi – Loreto Aprutino

Proper Riserva nose, rich and lifted, oak so full and in charge but fruit stands up and alongside. A firm, grippy and intelligent example if again an impressive amount of wood involved. Can’t help but see this as a top style for Riserva for a fine example of vintage (2020) and place (Colline Pescaresi). Age worthiness is a certain guarantee. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted March 2024

Fosso Corno Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2020, Teramo – Torano Nuovo

Stinky, reductive and dill pickle juice overrun. Tasted March 2024

Citra Vini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Ferzo 2020, Teate – Ortona

Tannic as you know what with austerity and toasted wood notes all over the fruit. Will this ever find the light? To a decent extent yes. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted March 2024

Nododivino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Torrepasso 2020, Teate – Ortona

Plenty of lift from montepulciano as Riserva with heavy fuel delivered in tanker after tanker by the barrels. The soy, varnish and heavy espresso is almost out of control. Tertiary character is just around the corner. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Contesa Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Chiedi alla Polvere 2020, Terre dei Vestini – Collecorvino

Cool, minty-savoury, very wood seasoned and reasoned for what can only act like a heavy set of fuel. Fruit and barrel will conspire for a decade-long run. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted March 2024

Marramiero Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC Inferi 2020, Terre dei Vestini – Rosciano

As rich, dense and concentrated as montepulciano will get. Heavy oak-driven style in the wooded, brewed soy, dark ganache of chocolate and mocha way. If you have come looking for a quick varietal fix with fruity transparency than thjis will seem so very over the top because of barrel usage and just too much for whatever fruit you would like to see expressed. If you want texture and structure than this will satisfy greatly, but not before another three years have passed. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024

At Prowein with Valentina di Camillo, Tenute I Fauri

Tasted at Prowein with Valentina Di Camillo

Tenuta I Fauri Passerina Vino Biologico 2023, Colline Teatine IGT

Campione: Grandfather abandoned these vines because of low production and they were re-planted 20 years ago on clay-calcareous soils with a great skeleton of limestones. Delivers salty notes but as a coincidence because these are not vines by the sea, closer to Chieti, 15 kms away from the water. Raised in concrete vats, holdovers from Valentina’s grandfather and restored to modern standards. Lost 85 percent of production to Perenospera with only this pecorino and Cerasulo being made. A wine of right choices and direction, what with passerina being the future. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Valentina di Camillo, Tenute I Fauri, Prowein 2024

Tenuta I Fauri Passerina Baldovino 2023

Campione: At 14 percent in alcohol and so light, bright, balanced and beautiful. This is the cuvée of all 14 plots of montepulciano and my goodness this is what you want to drink. “No matter what my mom cooks,” says Valentina, “especially gnocchi al sugu.” This is the energy from Cerasulolo you need. There it is, doing its job. Subtle almond aftertaste for a 7,000 bottle production that usually reaches 15. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Good to go!

godello

Ausonia (Atri, Teramo)

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The contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur

Aug12

A journey through the wine-lands of Sicilia is fluid and casual, yet timeless. The island’s contempo rhythms are their own and while each and every region is characterized, in fact stamped by a distinguishing mark or feature, there is a kinship that connects, especially through its people. A nearness of relations from east to west, an imperturbable sense of self-possession juxtaposed against the unspoken rule of being collectively Sicilian. The wine community acts exactly this way, feels irrefutable defined by characteristics of the present period and its modernity shines. People of poise, assurance, self-confidence, culturally and mosaically grouped together through a historic parade of travellers, occupiers, settlers and traders through time, yet belonging to the same contemporary age, living in the same period of time. Behold the contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur.

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2021

From Biancavilla at 900m just at the upper limit of the DOC. Sands, rocks, all volcanic for 100 percent carricante. Quite herbal, of thyme and bay laurel, but also the local Ginestra. Intense tang and thick acidity – creating great salivation and yet the palate lightens in the second half of the wine. You can feel the 12 months in cask because of lees and oxidative movement, for complex notions and preservation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Grillo Pharis 2022, Sicilia DOC

From Faro on the northeastern part of Sicily where the humidity concentrates and the breezes blow higher. A varietal grillo, quite peachy and freshness important because acidity more than keeps pace. Clean and an afternoon delight of a Sicilian white wine. The tonneaux adds texture and extends the fruit while never adding compaction. Very well rounded and made. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta di Castellaro Eùxenos 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

In the territory of Lipari in the (active) volcanic Aeolian where malvasia rules acroos the 160 hectares of the islands. Fertile soils, like a mix of Etna and Pantelleria. All malvasia (delle Lipari) grown at 350m on sandy basalt soils, of a natural fermentation and a deep golden hue because of a healthy maceration, followed by 10 months in amphora. Delicate perfume, orange blossom, dried white fig, dried and candied citrus before finishing at white pepper. A smoulder and easy character from beyond primary aromas mixing with the volcanics that not only characterize, but define this wine. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

Tenute Bosco’s Sofia Ponzini and Godello together again

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre Phylloxera 2017

Mario Paoluzi – I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Aetnus 2011

From Castiglione di Sicilia and specifically Muganazzi where 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio are grown in volcanics but also tufo and pumice. Gamey aroma mixed with the threefold mix for a highly particular balsamico. Ample new (one-third to be precise ) tonneaux which gives this Etna Rosso full on spice meets smoulder to leather-weatherize fruit and finish at drying tannins. Though nearly 13 years of age the wine has not fully resolved, though the fruit is now past peak. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Valle dell’Acate Vittoria Frappato DOC Vigna Bidone Sottana 2023

From the dry black silt and sandy/stony soils of southern Sicily in Acate at sea level. Perfumed, clean, soft tannins and all about its fruit. The single vineyard designation gives focus and direction because this really ancient Sicilian grape owns true potential. Vigna Bidone Sottana comes from old plant material, a 1.88 hectare plot that will only improve and instruct its vines to offer up complexity with more time. A launching point frappato for anyone who wants to know what pleasure can be had from this grape. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudi Del Pisciotto Versace Nero d’Avola 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

The territory is Niscemi at 200m on red sandy soils for nero d’Avola that sees a healthy 20 days of maceration. Chewy, an inward and implosive turn of fruit and acidity intertwined. Barrique aged, archetypal nero d’avola that’s quite expected, of lifted aromas, dark fruit and peppery piques. Classic liquorice and a herbaceousness that the grape often shows, ot unlike cabernet franc. Layers of tannin equop this ’21 with a decent potential for aging. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Candido Nero d’Avola 2021, Sicilia DOC

From Camporeale in the western side of Sicily, of nero d’Avola at 400m with no wood aging, only stainless steel. Openly fragrant and varietally obvious, a bit pressed which brings some greenness, pine resin and rosemary with natural tannins. Mix of ripenesses in the tannins which can feel austere and rustic. Honest and real continental example of nero d’avola. Dries out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Duca di Salaparuta Triskelè 2021, Sicilia DOC

A unique area for nero d’Avola, from Riesi and Butera heading into Western Sicily. Specifically from the The Suor Marchesa Estate, of clay and calcareous soils at 350m with aging in new and second passage barriques. The wood is very much involved, of grainy texture, waves and layers of spice, toasty and salty. Rich and high acid as well to keep the energy up. This must resolve and integrate further, which will happen in two-plus years though after five it will surely arrive into mushroom and truffle. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Grillodoro Late Harvest “Noble Rot” 2018, Sicilia DOC

A rare botrytis-affected dessert wine for modern day Sicilia, a grillo allowed to reman on the vines longer than any other in southwestern Sicily. Mid-October through early November, a few bunches at a time picked and brought in over at least a two week period. Not a Passito, more Sauternes as an example and finishing at 140 g/L of residual sugar. Late harvest berries sent to wood, acidity more than perceived and in fact preserved, persevered and prepared to lead the fruit. Pineapple and apricot, quite fresh considering the agricultural method and also the aging style. Perfectly clean, honeyed, a touch waxy on the palate with corresponding saltiness, gently tannic with lemon iced tea. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

Godello with the AIS Sicila Sommeliers

Related – All the wines of Sicily

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

En Primeur Sommelier Tastings

Spumante

Castellucci Miano Brut 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Distinctly catarratto with a lime twist and boundless energy. Scintillant style, high tempo, treble off the charts and length to boot. Just a lovely ceremonial bubble for happy occasions. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Gaudensius Metodo Classico Pas Dosé, Terre Siciliane IGT

So very curious and suggestive of glorious sparkling which is about as light in colour as any found anywhere this style is made. Not just Sicily and the near absence of skin contact time puts this is a singular space amongst peers, especially on Sicily with nerello mascalese. Drinks with ease yet also a controlled intensity of emotion. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 20244

Principe Di Corleone San Loé Brut 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP

Quiet and demure, crunchy and mounting momentum after first sips. Gains traction and stars to presume a great stage presence before lingering effortlessly. Just a bit of sweetness distracts but this is both a well made sparkling and consumer rounding one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Brut Nature Metodo Classico Enrica Spadafora 2018, Vino Spumante Di Qualità

Stays on lees for 36 months, Pas Dosé because all the wines are dry and that is the estate’s firm direction. Freshness yes but grape and slight gingery-oxidative character are the complexities urged forth by the grillo grape. Calming sparkling wine, all in order, pleasing and yes also complex. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Frappato Spumante Rosemosse 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Located in Butera within Caltinasetta, started in 2019 on an estate that had been abandoned for 30 years. Of 175 hectares, 18.5 are planted, 15 in production. Almonds, olives also part of production. Charmat method, soft press and after five months it spends two months on lees. Straight frappato, extra brut style and so 4 g/L of RS, tart, very strawberry, big energy groove and patterning on repeat. Tends and trends to the higher level on the Brut scale in terms of residual sugar yet early picked varietal acids keep the pace and faith. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Zahr Bianco Frizzante 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Zahr the flower from Arabic, a sparkling wine using grillo and chardonnay made at low pressure (max. 2.7 bars) and so not exactly by Charmat style, finishing at 12 percent alcohol and low residual sugar. Floral in every way, citrus is lime and the persistence very high for how this is made. Light bubble, easy and enjoyable. Spritz it up! Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut Sessantamesi Metodo Classico 2016, Etna DOP

Reductive style, maturing, now in the middle road in terms of fruit and energy, high acidity yet also sugars running that way. A big and openly gregarious expression for a consumer who likes it sweet, sour, intense and wild. Last tasted May 202

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Brut Rosato Metodo Classico 2021, Etna DOP

Quite a dry, rusty and rosy Rosé sparkling, clean and fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

The view from Splendid Hotel La Torre, Mondello

Rosato

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Rosato DOC Vignazza 2023

Funky, earthy and cheese rind, herbal and acidulated roasted peppers. Notable onion skin and red apples. Not the most balanced work with nerello mascalese. Drink 2024. Tasted May 2024

Baglio Di Pianetto Viafrancia Rosé 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Full, rich and substantial Rosé for those who wish for some pulp and flesh. An excess of red berry riches, proper acidity, only a pinch of residual sugar and persistence to satisfy in the end. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Rosé Di Adele 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

The ripest vintage and so picking early was necessary but Montoni is in the enviable position of elevation and also ventilation where crosswinds from Africa and the Mediterranean meet. In this place and of a warm vintage there is early ripeness but also thankfully phenolic development so that fleshy fruit, sweet and ripe acidity, then finally phenolic maturity all come into place. This bodes well for nerello mascalese as Rosé. There will be no one who does not find this delicious. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Etna Rosato DOC Rosematte 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

There is this style of Rosé made with nerello mascalese that just says light, dry, breezy an easy – this would define that to a “T.” The plus of all the fruit imagined and needed, a touch of sweetness and simplicity from start to finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interest and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Il Nostro Rosato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Colour, which is quite dark is just from the skins, no pressing, fermented in concrete and aged in steel. A Tavel hue, natural and appreciated, without pith, tonics or bitters. Top quality mix of the salty and the sapid, the rich and the stony. Could drink a bucket full because of its 100 percent nero d’Avola flavour, honestly and balance. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Rosato DOC Scalunera 2023

About as light and airy as it gets for Rosato, crunchy and salty, simple, easy and available. Chill, get at it and enjoy the fullness of a day. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

From Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2022

The Bianco carricante of Rinazzo are so very different to (especially) Cavaliere, namely because of humidity but also due to closer proximity to the sea. Here is a Superiore example, allowed to be labeled this way in the eastern area (of the village of Milo) and Bennati’s is richer, fuller and also more textural. Not just a case of lees but the aforementioned micro-climate really makes the case. A fine and impressive iteration indeed. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Campione: From three Contrada, carricante 100 percent, no issues with mildew because of an agronomist’s intensity of focus to root it out. Harvest in the first week of October and this comes away rich and full, so very developed and quite fruit explosive. Seven months of lees and stirring is very much in play this way. Fresh and full – just the way so many will find their love for this Etna Bianco. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Isolano 2021

About as curious and unique as it gets for Etna Bianco with this by Donnafugata at impressive elevation from a place called Isolano. The vintage delivers great sunshine and therefore ripeness for a maximum amount of fruit development that because of an extra year in bottle has now come to a place of generosity. More tang than saltiness and very ready to drink. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Balza Delle Poiane, Contrada Zottorinotto 2022

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2022

Some wood on Arcurìa that the Classico Etna Bianco does not receive and so this is not as lean, nor is it vertically the same. Citrus mixes with mineral, some austerity and magic that makes this more complex. Crisp however, but fleshy because the concentration and the contrada want this wine to end up this way. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Nicosia Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Gorna Biologico 2023

Quite rich and developed considering the youth and also a minor cheese rind lactic note in what feels like Etna Bianco working through its machinations. A bit awkward to be honest and a little bit of time should see some coming together. Then again the window is tight and so the time is just a bit ahead of now. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

La leggenda Patricia Tóth – Planeta

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

New label alert for Planeta’s 100 percent Passopisciaro carricante that celebrates, codifies and contemporizes the Etna eruption of 1614. Incredible intensity and roll in the hay of varietal beauty with striking acidity for what may just be the most brilliant shine ever noted in this emotional wine. Emozione indeed, of a respect for plants and place, of volcanic flows and their craggy rocks, of florals, herbals and all that lives and loves. The extra year in bottle intensifies, stratifies and solidifies both experience and intent. So fucking bon. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Classic Etna Bianco style that has come to be defined as “mountain wines” driven by volcanic soils. Here a rounded example with no sharp points, edges or spikes, fruit quotient run higher than most, riper and developed for immediate gratification. Substantial to every degree, acidity as sweet as it comes and everything so very up front. As good an introduction to the genre, idiom and place as there can be. Last tasted May 2024

Extreme unction and notable lees usage though keep in mind this is 2022. As young, impressionable and not quite out of the gangly stage as an Etna Bianco can act. Laden with lemon, much of it fresh squeezed, some unresolved phenolics (and aldehydes) and a shield of early structure or elastic membrane that is yet to slide away and reveal the full nature of what will surely be a cracker wine. Would much prefer to taste this a year from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021

Of Tornatore’s cru-designated Bianci it is Zottorinotto that acts the most reductive and hard to crack. Great shell of protection and disguise, needing agitation and better still time. That said the 2021 is also fully formed, developed and very much ready to get at – make sure to aerate, decant if you can and allow the pleasures to be released. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Scalunera 2023

Varietal carricante from Etna’s northern slope with just about as knowable and definable an Etna Bianco as there can be. This is Scalunera, of perfumes and fruit flavours yellow and green, crunchy and caught at the peak of freshness. What you call a dictionary entry that will be enjoyed by all – to great satisfaction. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Other DOC and IGT Whites

Donnafugata Passiperduti 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only grillo from Sicily’s west-central hinterland surrounded by hills and then the seas. Freshness and phenolics, lemon, grapefruit and botanicals, the things that grow around vineyards and up through the slopes. A crispy and lemon zested grillo like no other, made to order for grilled fish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

What catarratto will do when a grower and winemaker like Fabio Sireci gets it into his hands – to offer perfumes of white flowers and flavours of green fruits, always fresh and delicate. Persistence and linger, the way it should and wants to be. One of Sicily’s most honest and consistent white wines. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Dei Fornelli 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Feudo Montoni’s will always be one of the most harmonic, restrained and yet phenolic-gripped meets mutli-floral/fruity inzolia of the island. The citrus intensity, a zesting of lemon and lime made liquid to seal the cracks puts this ’23 in a state of grace. Must try varietal wine if not the ideal vintage because of warmth that begot early ripening. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only Fabio Sireci’s grillo comes forward this way, with an equal combination of full fruit determination and linear capacity. The mix of Sicilian exoticism and knowable character puts this at a varietal level to bely the island capabilities of the lion’s share. Not surprising considering the pick begins in late August and finishes early in September. Freshness yes but so much more, first from natural matter and then because skipping past the noise to arrive here confirms Sireci’s intelligence to make a grillo understood in the hands of instinctive tasters and consumers. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Masseria Del Feudo Grillo Hermosa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Ideal middle of the road grillo example, white and yellow florals, lemon segmented and juiced, herbal and direct. A good chill on a warm day, some fried calamari and all will be right in the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

The second vintage of a 100 percent catarratto from plants that went in back in 2015 on white calcareous soils. Only bush vines and at first made into a blend with grillo. The change was made to do some skin contact and aging in amphora. Really that simple and that is the advantage, no overdoing or distraction in trying to impress. But this does just that, with vibrancy and succulence. Really taut, lemon tight, nearly but not quite piercing. Will change after three years and get honeyed. Reminds of really young Hunter valley sémillon. Top echelon decisions and so bravo Filippo Mazzei and team. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Azisa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only stainless steel, short contact with the skins, made in a very traditional way. Perfectly arranged, straightforward and simple, of lemon citrus and white flowers by grillo that by now presses the idiom into Sicily’s concept of island time. Crunchy and just ever so slightly pith bitter, lemon again and again, unrelenting in style and quick by design. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2023, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Ripeness, juicy forthright quality and all in interface with what feels like every pore for both aromas and with the palate. The Terebinto, a.k.a Cyprus Turpentine never takes a break nor moves absently around. There is purpose in every aroma and flavour, not as an attack, but as a dance. This grillo gets better and better every year. Shiny happy leaves and people. Never out of time for this grillo. “Put it in the ground. where the flowers grow, gold and silver shine.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Bianco Alastro 2023, Menfi DOC

Varietal sauvignon blanc and not just any but from a southern Sicilian shore where the sea winds and scrublands are simply different to the Mediterranean side. All that matters conjoins for a whole new way to see the grape. Crispy and crunchy, salinity running amok and oysters or crunchy fried fishes (hopefully) waiting on the table. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With the legend, Alessio Planeta

Planeta Allemanda 2023, Sicilia Noto DOC

It’s a moscato bianco but not the kind you think, in fact it’s not only bubbles that are missing from Planeta’s Noto example. Extract and tannin rise above sweetness and fruit though there is plenty of ripeness noted in the latter. Ripe vintage, perhaps less quantity, but quality fruit makes for a balanced moscato. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Fiano Cometa 2022, Sicilia Menfi DOC

The sole varietal fiano at Anteprima Siciliane 2024 and of course it is Cometa by Planeta which stands the test of island time. Alas and always the subtle smoulder, struck flint but a moment in time and a crunchy quality to supersede the herbs and the lime. Full vintage, well-developed for a fiano that will ready itself a year ahead of its average time. Cometa cometh with palates standing by the ready. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus 2021, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Always the richest example of chardonnay with most honeyed flavours, spice cupboard and savoury eccentricities. The selection considers only the best, they being the ripest bunches with that uncanny ability to collect as mature, almost evolved feeling from its fruit to be converted into a magical example of Menfi. So much sunshine, luxe and refulgence, almost so bright you gotta wear shades sort of chardonnay. A top vintage because acidity, extract and tannin all layer in heaps. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Principe Di Corleone Ridente Angelica 2023, Sicilia DOC

Cool, ethereal, minty, salt-licked and kissed, stoic and proud. Herbal and botanical, of bay laurel and thyme, lemon preserve and the morning juice. Some may find the tonic a bit gin-washed but who should not love these flavours and the style all the same? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Francesco and Enrica Spadafora

Spadafora Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

From vineyards Between 200-400m, a place of sandy soils where freshness is the order for catarratto and yet there is some tropical fleshiness about the ’23 by Spadafora. Would not exactly say salty but more so a split between salinity and sapidity because there are some phenolic moments in this wine. Harmonious and just complex enough to rise above the norm. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Don Pietro Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Named after Francesco Spadafora’s father (and Enrica’s grandfather) who started the winery in 1993. A bit higher in acidity than the straight catarratto because of the inclusion of grillo and so a higher saltiness, succulence and energy. This is expressive of attitude in such a good way. Will gain interest after a couple of years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Grillo Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

For the grillo the plants are kept to a relative minimum vigour but cutting away the “moustache and the tail” while keeping the interno. Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and just a few months on lees. Remarkably if subtly flinty, smouldering and textural, simply from land and grape, coming together for a really unique effect. It’s truly Spadafora, their place and how they allow this quality to speak. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Siriki Orange 2017, Terre Siciliane IGP

Grillo on skins for 30 days, now nearly seven years of age yet freshness somehow persists. Surely owing to clean lees and how they lay to present themselves as they continue to ready their host. Enrica Spadafora explains how she and her father were wanting to have a different style of orange and also this is grillo, not your every day average variety for the style. Was structured and has now settled, though there are some tannic moments drying the palate in the end. Impressive all in all, seemingly ambitious, but the result is there. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Sofien 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Half and half grillo and chardonnay, as with all the wines they are called “Totò Navarra,” first and last name of the owner and you can’t just use Navarra because well, Spain. Totò, as in Salvatore. Fruit, flowers, simple, sunshine and some chardonnay backbone, but just clean and fresh which is just what is needed. Fine and easy yet acidity and persistence are essential and the finish more sapid than salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2024

Etna Rosso DOC

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

The juiciest of all the ‘22s for Giuseppe Russo and if also the least structured there can and should be no complaints. Reeking of and oozing nerello mascalese flavours so cherry red, fresh, clean and particular. There are no others like this – the level of energy without unnecessary heated intensity is remarkable. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

The allure of Feudo is real, the consistency of its fuxed expression divine and the work in Giuseppe Russo’s world a conduit to access the sublime. Sure there is a quiet restraint at this early stage of 2022’s tenure but how could we miss the high levels of fruit and structure combining for purpose and potential? A big and full Feudo from the variable vintage, chewy and layered, stratified volcanics making sure that when maturity comes there will always be mineral. What a Feudo indeed. Peak of Feudo freshness out of the embers and smoulder of a warm season. The secret is Etna and this section of the vineyard. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2021

Laying down expectation can be a dangerous thing, but can’t be helped some times. Knowing Giuseppe Russo and the Piano delle Colombe block of the San Lorenzo vineyard will induce and send thoughts down such a path from a 2021 that not only matches but exceeds what was thought to be possible. Aromatically positive signs and the deliverance of a fleet of nearly perfected ripenesses come to such a consummated fruition are come upon by way of unconscious results. Optimal not optimum, because there is no such thing, but only the attainable which in this case is superlative balance. Harmonies of all parts, out of field to bottle, through every rise, depression and plateau, from start to finish and everything in between. The critical moments are found, like cooking a perfect steak, pushing your finger into its soft middle fleshy belly and feeling the exact spring back desired. A greta or pearl of a nerello mascalese, a highway tune, “so sweet, so fine, so nice, all mine. “I prefer ’21,” admits Russo. Smart man. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted May 2024

Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive , so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Pistus 2022

From L’Etna’s northern side at Contrada Muganazzi, only stainless aging, no wood and thank you very much. I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna have been working with this contrada since the beginning (2007) though Pistus the label dates to 2012. Some volatility though just a hint and not too distracting, Amaro herbal and very complex. Big wine though fresh, crispy and crunchy, with good freshness. Serious lift to this Etna Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2020

The most developed for Rampante with a spicy 2020 aromatic entry, concentrated and refined while residing on the darker red fruit side of the line. Lift, balsamico gariga, bay laurel, crunchy and herbal. So very complex and as far as Etna nerello mascalese goes there is more savoury depth from this by Pietradolce. Full-bodied in all these regards, breadth and volume guaranteed. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the single vineyard in Passopisciaro, site of some of the oldest lava flows on Etna, the 1614 volcanic spill. Another high glycerol event as nerello mascalese because this is what this vineyard must effect upon fruit and 2020 abides. Of course it does but also delivers the kind of Rosso that does not beg for years of waiting. The tannins are sneaky but not austere, the acidity so sweet you would like to spoil it as dessert. More precise than the Etna Rosso (mainly from Feudo) but clearly nella famiglia. Last tasted May 2024

Brightest and highest of scintillant nerello mascalese at impressive elevation on soils developed from the mountain’s 1614 eruption, in other words ancient but still young by world standards. Each and every lava flow resulting in volcanic soils is different on Etna and this 406 year-old tract is unequivocally responsible for Planeta’s 2020 style. Sure the winemaker might have a say but her job is to let the vineyard speak which she does as well as any artista/professionalista on the mountain. Buon lavoro PT. Stupendo. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Other DOC and IGT Reds

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Candied floral aromas, of pansies and nasturtium namely with a lift so very suggestive. There is a note of Brettanomyces yet at a subtle level and while the effect is slight the palate trails into a momentary lapse of brittle tannin. Still the beauty and the natural smile of this frappato are intoxicating and we simply will not turn away. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Castellucci Miano Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not the most openly fragrant frappato with red berries the most notable entry but no real overt sense of florals. Sweetly herbal, cherry drop and then sweet basil before the palate feels the full true nature of the wine. Cool and gelid with a mint to bay layer herbal feel for a wine well made if pressed just a smidgen past prime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Frappato Bell’Assai 2022, Vittoria DOC

Straight ahead Vittoria frappato, floral and striking, citrus up front part green and part red, like cranberry and pomegranate with a chiffonade of tarragon. Some chewy quality here, of liquorice and fruit leather, flavour profile high and acidity cool, tart and fine. Gets better with each subsequent sniff and sip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Floramundi 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

Lifted, high spirit and tone, herbal, juicy and citrusy for the frappato-nero d’Avola Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend. On the light and transparent side of such an appellative joint which suggests more frappato and also choice of style. Light and linear, suggestively tannic and a great food wine for that meat to fish overlapping. Liquid chalky and lengthy. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Terre Di Elio 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A very good vintage for the variety though her recent tasting from tank causes Melissa Muller to say that ‘23 “will be even more vertical.” That said the ’22 is not your average, every day nerello mascalese, not by any stretch of the Sicilian imagination. Fully formed, attractive and finding no obstacle to hinder leaving its impression. Balanced throughout, without equivocation, fruit followed by acidity, stepping back to fruit before than fast forwarding two steps to really fine tannins. Lightens as it moves and finishes pretty much where it started. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Perricone Core 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A perricone from Fabio Sireci of as much substantial fruit up front as the winemaker has ever put together. Aromatic volume gives way to palate and mouthfeel where depth and breadth really take centre stage. Big in terms of fruit presence though not the most structured ever. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Lagnusa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Lagnusa may be hard to say but it is never hard to drink and enjoy to fullest extent of Sicilian nero d’Avola law. Or joy because its mix of local savoir faire, freshness and understated structure make it as ideal a five to seven year wine as any on the island. One of those crunchy exterior, chewy interior neros that remain constant from start to finish. Grace, charm and honesty incarnate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Zisola definitely suits Filippo Mazzei

Mazzei Zisola 2022, Noto Rosso DOC

Zisola is a project for Filippo Mazzei that began with a 700 km drive around Sicily accompanied by Diego and Alessio Planeta. Noto was chosen because of the biodiversity of the flora, to Filippo not unlike Tuscany. He also fell in love with the old Baroque town and could see a comparison between nero d’avola and sangiovese. “The decision was made based on a feeling.” The 2022 is so much fresher than the nero of 15 years ago, not to mention the balance accrued by way of alberello trained vines. Open up the dictionary and here it is. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

Just a 5,000 bottle production, not released until it sees an extra year in bottle. “Planted from the very the beginning,” because explains Fiippo Mazzei, “syrah was fashionable at the time, but then the Bordeaux varieties went in.” A very structured wine, also showing the wood more than the nero but concentration is so full and the wine just as grippy that it needs the fortification. A solid construct that will unfold after five to 10 years of time. Befitting its name. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Doppiozeta 2021, Noto DOC

Yes another fine Doppiozeta nero d’avola from the Mazzei family and their Sicilian estate. Crispy exterior, chewy interior, spice and herbs as accents, salt and pepper seasoning, chalky tannic, reasoned and knowably fine. Consistently well raised, made and delivered, signed and sealed as a really good wine. The freshness is always there and the acidity so ideally suited to grape and style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Effe Emme 2021, Sicilia DOC

Varietal petit verdot planted in 2004, only 1.5 hectares, just about at the very beginning of Zisola. Incredibly chalky to say that it really speaks for the calcaire but time has come to effect changed so that the vines have come into balance. As petit verdot Effe Emme is not as dark and concentrated as it once was. Really showing its colours, what it is, a child of limestone soils. “Effe Emme,” F.M., long-play radio, well-spoken, one who tells things as they are, Filippo Mazzei. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Frappato 2023, Vittoria DOC

About as fruity and openly floral as frappato will be to say that the style continues to evolve in the most positive way. Without distraction and encumbrance, set to aim, be received and please, without biting or striking back. There is some lift in Planeta’s 2023, in part because youth is a rebellious time to be frappato, but we know this too shall pass and the wine will settle without struggle. The fruit will remain and the song continue to play the same. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Nocera 2023, Sicilia DOC

One of the very few pleasantly made varietal nocera on the island and the only one presented here at the ’24 Anteprima. Surely found to exist along similar lines to nero d’Avola, with a touch more rusticity, also chewy liquorice and leathery fruit character. The 2023 is a good if not high acid nor rather tannic vintage, assembled and delivered for earlier drinking than some. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2021, Noto DOC

Such a fine iteration of nero d’avola as Santa Cecilia, a 2021 more mature and open than before but is that not what it should be? Fruit so naturally curated, sweet and generous to speak of a great potential and long future. Fine acidity as well while also necessary and yet as the wine sits on the palate those credible and knowable quality of nero tannins remind of Cecilia’s past. Anyway this is both handsome and beautiful, vulnerable and strong. Fluid and confident, loving and powerful, with a spoonful of Noto nourishment to last a very good long time. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus Cabernet Franc 2018, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Now in release mode at near six years past vintage and believe when you hear that six more are needed to fully develop the structural intensity so that all parts get to working as one. For now feel the positivity of varietal fruit so obvious and layered, concentrated and confident, but in truth there is a submission to the tannins. They are grainy and chalky, not austere, but yes aggressive. Be patient – this Didacus is a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

The freshest of Spadafora’s nero d’Avola where acidity runs high, tannins lower and lighter wines are produced (in an area considered best for syrah). Fresh yes but there is a mild amount of Brettanomyces here, nothing striking but present. Natural wine lovers may just find this to their liking. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Don Pietro 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

A blend of nero d’Avola, merlot and cabernet sauvignon (40,30,30), aged in only concrete and steel for freshness first. Chalkiness arrives second with thanks surely to soil and here some Brett but also volatility that is a bit distracting. Again it’s just a fractional amount but it is there, however less so than the solo nero d’avola. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP

Fermented in concrete and aged in steel, the freshest syrah that can be made to drink quickly, easily and without hesitation. Cleaner and fresher than the entry nero d’Avola with meatiness and mild peppery grip, though no real density to speak of. Great classic example for all red wine needs. You can chill this one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah Sole Dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGP

Sees one year in barriques and the rest in tank, bottled in July of 2022. Lengthy aging but just a short wood stay so don’t come expecting heavy vanilla, lavender or other French barrel notes. Come instead for the florals, spices, spiciness, liquid pepper, but no smoke. Chalky, tannic and all soil-related, created and driven. Can last for another 10 years. Clean and varietally obvious though not the iodine-meaty syrah kind. Perfume and texture are everything. Balsamico and mint at the finish. ”La terra,” shrugs Francesco Spadafora. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Merlot Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

First vintage though merlot has been growing for many years and so after many trials it has been decided to make a solo effort. Proper, merlot-ness straight away, fruity and verdant. Clean and the land gives the life, breathes of fresh air and soil earthiness that runs complex if dry through the wine. Fine merlot, chic, suave and rewarding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Nero d’Avola Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and 50 percent goes to barrel before going back to tank. Pretty much seven-plus years in total. Maturing and while there are some drying oxidative notes in dried fruit and herbs there is also freshness, acidity and energy. True nero d’Avola locution imagined as Riserva comparable with many other Italian wines, while harmony and style really tell the story. Very, very well made wine with great further potential for aging. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

The team at Totò Navarra

Tenute Navarra Disiato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Dark sandy soils and also light clay to effect frappato more towards the lighter side. Raised only in stainless steel, maintaining ultra freshness, clarity and my goodness this is so drinkable. Top acidity with simple tannin, far from grippy though it’s there, “to wash the mouth.” Crunchy and easy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Maribu 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

The classic mix of nero d’avola and frappato, here in 2022 the blend is 50-50 when sometimes it can be 70-30 or 60-40. A vintage where the two work seamlessly together and frappato carries more meaning than it often will. All sorts of berries, one after another, an apothem of a Cerasuola from which drinkability meets structure pretty much halfway there. A linear blend that travels from its centre to the midpoint of one of its sides. Really fine, of top quality freshness and clarity. Tonnino Guzzo is a winemaker who obviously keeps an immaculate cellar and makes the cleanest wines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Battichié 2021, Sicilia DOC

Battichié, a lullaby that Totò’s mother Maria used to sing to him when he was a child. One year in French barriques, one in steel and then followed by another in bottle. Truth is the grape and soils do show through, even while this remains so youthful, once again proving a winemaker’s acumen and ability. No over use of wood, still clear and fresh with more pieces to the varietal puzzle already there yet still to develop. Ten year nero d’avola for sure. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Good to go!

godello

The view from Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

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