Twenty-five mind blowing wines of 2025

Dec29

To perform an exercise 13 years running is commitment, on repeat annum per annum, the messenger thanking the maker. Tasting and assessing wine is like wandering a maze of streets folding in on themselves with travel playing the most significant role, adjusting weights and measures for how a list will be conceived. In 2024 Chianti Classico played their major roles, as did Sicily and in particular L’Etna. The mountain wines will again in 2025, so will South Africa and the Tuscan appellations once again. Expect Montepulciano to join the fray next year. These are the contiguous rules of vinous engagement, always in flux, committed to memory, ready for anything that comes this way.

This is alchemy, not science, trails in the ether, thoughts put to paper and tapped furiously across keys. Not necessarily best of, but instead that which intrigues to the highest of degrees. That which blows the mind.

Godello reviewed 3,500 wines in 2025, give or take, down eight percent from 2024 but such things are not a matter of wine or death. Than again the breakdown is quite consistent; thirty percent would be from the LCBO’s VINTAGES release program, 24 percent for WineAlign Exchange curation and wine reviewing service, (12) Chianti Classico, (10) Montalcino, (6) Sicilia and the remaining (18) from travels to other parts of Italy and around the world. A smaller part of one percent would be from wines enjoyed with friends, tasting groups, wine agent reps, visiting winemakers and at home. It all adds up to one great pool from which to create this list of 25, a number to represent just slightly more than half of one percent of the wines tasted by Godello in 2025. Here are his twenty-five mind-blowing wines of 2025.

Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée, Chilham, Kent, England

This is the third Kent bubble being poured in these late November WineAlign fizz sessions and the third to impress. If only fruit would ripen every year in that part of the world then these vineyards and their makers’ work would really add up to something extraordinary. In time this will happen and as it stands the Evremond Classic Cuvée from Patrick McGrath MW and his Taittinger benefactors is a fine ode to a man buried in Poet’s Corner, Westminster Abbey. Sharp, focused and devilishly delicious, finely chisled and rich enough to become your great friend. Impressive indeed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2025

Perrier Jouet Champagne Belle Epoque Blanc De Blancs 2017, Champagne AC, France

First vintage of the Blanc de Blancs was 1993, 162 years after the house was realized by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and his wife Rose Adélaïde Jouët. Chardonnay comes from two top Cramant crus, Bouron Leroi and Bouron du Midi, aged a minimum six years and with a dosage of eight g/L. There could not be another Blanc de Blancs as subtle, restrained and delicate as this Belle Epoque, the least startling of them all, simply put, a wine of indelible grace. Goes without saying that concentration is at peak and this is where the Champagne’s great intensity gets its lift. Have rarely tasted anything so full and developed, here with obvious autolysis though that’s simply not the leading aspect to focus upon. Once again texture is all and the palate wishes for nothing further, nor is anything left on the table. 30,000-40,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2041. Tasted April 2025

Vassaltis Santorini Assyrtiko PDO 2023, Santorini, Greece

Great passion vintage after vintage from proprietor Yannis Valambous alongside consulting oenologists Elias Roussakis and Yannis Papaeconomou. Now 11-plus years into their tenure with fruit coming from decades old vineyards planted by Valambous’ father Vassilis. The world of assyrtiko is the furthest from varietal one-dimensionality and in Valambous’ small corner the intricacies are boundless, multifarious and endless. The quality climbs another notch with this 2023 to speak for Santorini in not only clear vernacular but with great precision and style. Implosive and inward as they come, nowhere near opening and wound as if a wire around a winch. The volcanic salinity and coiled extract are entwined with tannins so pointed and sharp you can file your palate on its sold stone groove. All that said the levels substance and concentration are second to none. A discovery of highest interest and intensity awaits. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Hiedler Ried Schenkenbichl 1.ötw Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal DAC, Austria

A year older and one closer to a grüner veltliner on the cusp of developing secondary character from 60 year-old vines raised on the Schenkenbichl. A vineyard of dark amphibolite geology that gives this varietal wine its distinct smoky character. The extra year in bottle is partly responsible but also the vintage which deliver more flesh and unction than the following one. The ’22 is special, not that ’23 is not but this mix of pulpy stone fruit and flintiness combines for extraordinary waves of grüner veltliner gifts. This time next year will mark an amazing moment for this wine. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted November 2025

Mullineux Old Vines White Wo Swartland 2024, WO Swartland, South Africa

The current and modern South African recursions of blending white varieties off of old vine plantings is a Swartland specialty that dates back approximately 25 or so years. Mullineux is entrenched in the revolution and this sku has long been a going concern. Their takes often provide more elegant solutions to certain problems with successes just as impressive as efficiencies. They generally look to two-thirds chenin blanc, with smaller proportions of clairette blanche, grenache blanc, semillon, viognier, and verdelho. Where else in the world can vine-growing and maturing experience from ancient soils and so many thriving grape varieties add up to this much complexity and pleasure? The 2024 is about as concentrated and fruit-centric as any, while the underlying mineral thematic controls the wine’s manifest destiny. This will be fascinating to taste eight to ten years from now and also each and every step along the way. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted August 2025

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc 2023, AOC Rhône, France

The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape by La Nerthe is composed from 40 percent grenache blanc, (34) roussanne, (20) clairette and (6) bourboulenc. As golden hued and sun cumulate as any Rhône white could be for 2023, full of local riches and generosity off the proverbial southern charts. A pure Blanc with powerful restraint and controlled energy to shed complex layers one pixel at a time over the span of many years, potentially two decades long. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted December 2025

Beare Green Winery Chardonnay Clonal Blend 2023, Surrey, England

From Wine with Jimmy’s (jimmy Smith) and a project that started in 2022 with a real core aim to make “low intervention English wine.” A wine made beneath a “perennial dark cloud in a marginal maritime climate” tells Jimmy. A chardonnay of a short ripening season, an average of 700mm of rainfall (and 1,700 in 2024) for lean, edgy, on the edge of cool wine production. “I want English wines to have electric acidity,” says Smith. His chardonnay is lean yet charming, more than somehow because the wine is balanced in spite of its searing intensity. The intrigue is palpable and real. This chardonnay may age for a very long time. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4c, July 2025

Rottensteiner Vigna Premstallerhof Santa Maddalena Classico 2023, Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC, Italy

Poster schiava (with seven percent lagrein) child to represent the DOC revolution that is Santa Maddalena Classico of a very special (and volcanic) single vineyard wine. The voice of South Tyrol at 12.8 percent alcohol. Pure and abundant, crushed velvet textured and luxurious. Remember the name Premstallerhof because this will surely become a Grand Cru site for Südtirol-Alto Adige. Feel the necessity of each year getting your hands on a few of the just 18,000 bottles produced. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted December 2024

Arianna Occhipinti Bb Frappato Vino Di Contrada 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy

BB, a.k.a Bomboliere feels like the OG for a contrada-designate frappato in the Vittoria occupied Occhipinti world, a varietal expression from the home front with more experience and acumen to treat all things equal, they being available and worthy of leaning against and leading towards ultimate balance. As here from a fine and rocking 2022, crunchy exterior and chewy interior, a Balsamico crust and mix of fruits captured within. Though the Villages frappato is the most accessible it is this BB that ranks as the most well-rounded and if there is any austerity it won’t cause any psychosocial pain. Yet BB is tannic enough to age, stirs up emotion and is truly representative as a best of all worlds wine, more so than either the FL or PT. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2021, Sicily, Italy

Not that the wine isn’t tight but my goodness how the tension is matched by fine verticality from Rosso with an intensity of volcanic chalkiness so specific to Santo Spirito’s 1870 lava. When vines are pre-phylloxera they have a true connection to the actual eruption and basalt because the lava had barely cooled when the first grapes appeared on the vines. A “no lo so” factor in this nerello mascalese character cools the Rosso so that herbal and stony notes prevail and persist, long after the wine has passed over the palate. A remarkable wine (isn’t it always) and another near perfect vintage. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted May 2025

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2020, Sicily, Italy

Grand and expressive, epically proportioned, factor of a remarkable vineyard brought to life through the coursing of its nerello mascalese. Hard to imagine an Etna Rosso so fine and linear could be considered crushable but this is Barbagalli and its vines more experienced than just about any aboard L’Etna. Crushable as a fleeting feeling but everything is truly in place, all parts inclusive of fruit, minerals, elements and constructions right where they should formulate. The last of the wine is no such thing because the weights, measures and taciturn moments linger for seemingly ever. Wowed and energized by Barbagalli. Drink 2027-2039. Tasted May 2025

Masseria Cuturi Primitivo Di Manduria 2021, Licuturi DOC, Puglia, Italy

A modest primitivo is many ways, especially with respect to the ways in which the world perceives how the grape is expressed and yet vintage is so essential as being the determining factor. In this case less than the hottest, acidity bursting upwards of 6.5 g/L and alcohol pleasant, present and restrained at 14 per cent. Even if it’s actually closer to 14.5 it does not matter because it would be hard to find a more balanced varietal wine like this anywhere in Puglia. The hard work, focus, respect and abiding by nature and place are so apparent and must be recognized. In the face of climate and time of history this is simply brilliant. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Di Carleone Chianti Classico DOCG 2022, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

Tenacious freshness initiates this 100 percent Raddese sangiovese of blooming perfume caught at the pinpointed moment of its opening salvo. The beauty inherent is a factor of many things but who could not think that acumen is the impetus and the driver. Of plants and place, people and maker. The it factor can be affirmed with unequivocal doubt for this to be one of the top and critical Annata for 2022, expressed with a clarity and a focus at the height of all these aforementioned ideals. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted at The Chianti Classico Collection, February 2025

Castello Di Volpaia Il Puro Casanova Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

The refinement of Il Puro is apparent from the start for a sangiovese as Gran Selezione 100 percent worthy of its grape and name. The pure one is Volpaia perfume incarnate, cool and floral, Chianti Classico spice masala developed low and slow, acidity as unctuous as any but always “di Volpaia.” Hypnotizing elements make this wine go straight to your head though there is clarity of thought. Also beating of hearts because of its philanthropy. The focus and finesse are grand, the hypnotic effect causing a loss for words. Il Puro 2021 is a thing of great beauty – what else needs to be said? Drink 2029-2040. Tasted February 2025

Querciabella Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021, Radda, Tuscany, Italy

One of three Gran Selezione and the first vintage for three UGAs to be singled out, split from one anothem, perform acts from Lamole, Greve and here out of Radda. Aromatic stunner this Radda and the ripest of sangiovese for a UGA where that now happens with more regularity than ever before. Hard to believe the level of luxe character and substantial fruit. That and an exaggeration of Raddese acid riches, stride for stride with the fruit, together intertwined and joined at the hip. As sturdy, vertical and grippy as it is expressive of unlimited generosity, ultimately a full and purposed wine that has it all going on. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted November 2025

Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve 2022, Toscana Centrale IGT, Tuscany, Italy

“Flaccianello for us is always the finest expression of Fontodi terroir and sangiovese grown in our territory,” says Giovanni Manetti. Truth and still a certain sense of irony as coming from the President of Chianti Classico consortium. Flaccianello was struck by hail in 2022 and so one third of the crop was lost because the western vineyard Poggio was obliterated on August 16th. The other two (Pecille and La Cappellina) survived and in the end the Pietraforte that runs through still granted the freshness, structure and especially acidity. There is a more immediate floral bloom and perceived balance from 2022, also sneakier tannins than the previous few vintages of Flaccianello. The longevity is a veritable guarantee, for 20-25 years and quite possibly more. Drink 2027-2042. Tasted February 2025

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Filo di Seta 2021, Tuscany, Italy

Massive aromatic attack, assault on the senses, classical movement rising to a crescendo. Fruit, spice and a toasted nuttiness unique to this and only this sangiovese. A perspective like no other, mimic of the vistas from the perch of the place, not to be fully grasped understood less you stand and look out with wonder from where the wines are raised. The 2021 runs like a stream through an untouched virgin forest, silken texture phantom threaded with the invisible filaments of finest tannin. The delicacy and subtlety of this wine will surely be the impetus to see it live 20-25 years, most of them in this original state. Drink 2028-2043. Tasted November 2025

Il Marroneto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Madonna Delle Grazie 2021, Tuscany, Italy

A vintage sandwiched between two of established structure at harvest time and described by Jacopo Mori as one of finesse and equilibrium. The Madonna delle Grazie selection has so much in common with the Brunello but what separates this wine is more than just a matter of concentration and mouthfeel. Usually power extends from finesse and elegance but in 2021 all the fruit and then everything in barrel was very close in character. Quality too and so the grape selection was made easier, resulting in a Selezione the team held with full confidence in their choices. The 2021 delivers fruit with many levels of violet perfumes of multifarious quality as a by product of small berries with higher ratio of skins.“ A distinction that makes this wine different” explains Jacopo Mori. Purity incarnate and from the protégé and next generation, absolute truth spoken. 9,500 bottles. Drink 2028-2036. Tasted November 2025

Cortonesi La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019, Tuscany, Italy

Though released six-plus years after the harvest Tommaso Cortonesi says “this is the first Riserva that I bottled more than one year earlier than the rest.” This because he now prefers that the wine refines one extra year in bottle and not in botti. For him Riserva is not necessarily the “top pick” of the vineyards or vintage but rather a Brunello of a different or ulterior approach. “A matter of style,” he explains, “an example of northerly Montalcino.” Now in bottle two years and emphatically not a powerful Riserva but something cooler, more refined and well, fine. There are wines to speak as sangiovese, Brunello or Montalcino and then there are Riserva that amalgamate all three in equal pronouncement, in concentrated concern, executed with reserve and balance to speak as Riserva. Rich and generous, high level quality and quantity of acidity, no hidden fruit or brilliant disguise. Instead there is transparency, focused intensity, everything up front and personable. Like its maker. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted February 2025

Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2019, Tuscany, Italy

The smile in winemaker Federico Radi’s eyes tells you much of what you need to know for how he feels about the 2019 vintage. Though Riserva (like the Brunello) is released a year later than almost all others in Montalcino there is a feeling about this wine that speaks to immediate gratification it is curiously capable of providing. The acidity is tops for ’19, sweet and oscillating, coming at the palate in waves, fruit surfing its crests and crashing across with maximum flavour. After the rains of August 31 through September 2 the balancing of atmospheric conditions during a dry two weeks created ideal ripening conditions between September 10th and 15th. The only part of 2019 that needs more time in bottle for integration is wood, this being the second vintage after which new casks were beginning to replace some older ones in the cellar. In that sense there is some resurfacing on this sangiovese yet also harmony and consistency from Riserva, two aspects that will guarantee not only longevity but also an abiding to what Radi, Giampiero Bertolini and their teams desire. Demand as well, to speak for the vineyards and relate the long Biondi-Santi story. Drink 2027-2045. Tasted November 2025

Domaine De Bellene Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 2023, Bourgogne AOC, France

Aux Chaignots is a newer and pint-sized 0.14 hectare plot of Premier Cru Nuits-Saint-Georges in the northerly Côte d’Or upslope and within a limestone throw over to those in the village of Vosne-Romanée. Makes for the most two-toned, dual-textured Bourgogne of the lot, at one crisp and crunchy and then chewy, from exterior to interior. Reminds somewhat of the formidable 2020 and its striking tannins, both capable of unleashing and crashing their power over our palates with impunity and trenchant intention. Of course this 2023 remains in an immovable state, grippy and suggestive of a hands off approach for a minimum five years post vintage. More would be the suggestion because the fortification is a secure one and there is really no sense trying to break down barriers that do not want to be broken down. Drink 2028-2037. Tasted March 2025

Catena Zapata Birth Of Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Mendoza, Argentina

The back label spins a yarn and a half, of a legend, fantasy and allegory all wrapped up in cultivar classification and grape lineage ampelography. From bees fertilization of cabernet franc to sauvignon blanc, a Cardinal Richelieu reference and farming cabernet sauvignon in Mendoza. All this to set the table for Catena’s new flagship varietal wine with a back story. The grand cuvée comes from a mix of vineyards; Angélica Sur Vineyard, Paraje El Cepillo, San Carlos, Valle de Uco; La Pirámide Vineyard, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. There is 10 percent cabernet franc included, macerated from 18-22 days and then aged in first, second and third use French oak for 18-24 months. A serious and layered construction with the most luxe and abundant ripe fruit meeting best barrels that Mendoza and money can produce, higher in acidity than most, in delivery of qualitative tannic conveyance and many years of slow energy release already set in motion. Impressive to be sure and destined to be devoured by a consumer who seeks out the finest goods of life. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted November 2025

Lorenzo Fede Malbec 2019, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina

Feels like Fede is Lorenzo dedicating this highest end, signature malbec for a family member named Federica and she should feel blessed because this is one seriously concentrated and impressive varietal wine. As punchy, grippy and purposeful as it gets for Agrelo, aged 18 months in only the finest wood available and with a terrific vintage in bottle. Does not sniff nearest the highest Mendoza vineyards but the stuffing and promise is up there with the best and the brightest. Nothing over the top or unmanageable but clearly refined and also quite finessed. Can’t see this changing much for 10 years and could very well live comfortable for five to ten more. Drink 2026-2039. Tasted October 2025 96

Il Poggiolino Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico DOCG 1987, San Donato In Poggio, Tuscany, Italy

Current vintage on the market. Yes, that is not a typo. A 27-28 year-old labour of love that from trebbiano and malvasia but in the late 1990s the switch was made for sangiovese as Occhio del Pernice. An elixir so silken and smooth, no rusticity and seemingly untouched by human hands. A Vin Santo as if made by the bees, with apricot, guava, jasmine, lemon, Japanese orange and lavender. Fine, fine spice and just so special. A dream, demure and engaging. On the right side of vivid. One of the finest ever and know that you can drink this meravigliosa dessert wine forever. Drink 2025-2050. Tasted February 2025 98

Pellegrino 1880 Marsala Vergine Riserva Doc Single Barrel Nº 018 2005, Sicily, Italy

Vergine means marsala fortified with soy alcohol and as Riserva (2005) it means more than 20 years of aging. Mainly grillo with (30 percent) catarratto and inzolia, limited production, 2,163 bottles and finished at 19.5 percent alcohol. The sugars developed could imagine honey, brown sugar or maple syrup but they are so much more complicated and therefore unnamed. Also fruit like apricot and pineapple but think moire exotically or better still just admit that something unusual and ethereal is happening. The palate is dry as the desert, the flavours, brown butter nutty, intense and spicy. This is not a dessert wine by any stretch of the imagination but something much more gustatory and ready to receive culinary inspiration. Drink 2025-2040. Tasted May 2025

Good to go!

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Twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025

Dec22

Godello in Vancouver

These past 13 years have offered countless opportunities to taste the coffered excellence of Canadian wine and in turn these Godello pages have produced 12, now 13 sets of recollection, reminiscence and appreciation. Formulating these lists has always been time consuming, the process delicate, the stress they induce troubling and wrought with hours of heedful consideration. The 13 years of tasting and assessing have accounted for more than 15,000 Canadian wines in glasses well-used, replaced and updated, through Zalto tragedies, Riedel and Spiegelau mitigation. The number 25 may appear to be an easy target because that seems like more than sufficient spaces to fill, but every year gets harder and the task weighs increasingly on the taster’s duty to accountability. These twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025 represent a cross section of Canadian merit always edging into brilliance, an annual catalogue never ignored nor glossed over, completed with conscientious thought towards the end goal of celebrating Canada’s best. Ethical and justified, by now a matter of tradition and in this opinion, a cultural imperative.

Godello in the Okanagan Valley

Twenty-five percent of this year’s tableau are sparkling wines, one less than 2024 but still a number that serves to prove the enduring coast-to-coast quality of that sector in Canadian wine. As a reminder, “the math is really quite simple. Cool climate viticulture means longer growing seasons for more developed, therefore riper phenolics matched dutifully by kept acidities. Climates have changed but Canadian growing areas have not yet lost their edge and besides, extreme events are more likely and increasingly the culprit when it comes to extenuating snafu circumstances like crazy cold snaps that take out wide swaths of grapevines. For the most part this country can still hang a wide variety of grapes to create killer sparkling wines. Be immersed in the emerging industry that is Canadian sparkling wine and you will find yourself amazed. Canadian wine regions form coast to coast are not trying to make Champagne, but, the promise grows for producing sparkling wine better than anywhere in the world…with the exception of Champagne.”

NWACs 2025

At the 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada there were 100 medals awarded to sparkling wines. 100! 100 is an insane number of Gold, Silver and Bronze medallions allotted to any category and yet sparkling is in fact so deserving of the hardware. Of those 100 medals, 23 were Gold, 34 Silver and 43 Bronze. The two most expensive wines entered both received Gold recognition and the provincial breakdown at that level was 12 from Ontario, 10 out of British Columbia and one for Nova Scotia. In fact the average price of Gold winning wines is $56.10 which surely says something about two dozen WineAlign judges’ ability to identify the highest Canadian sparkling wines.

The School of Cool July 17, 2025 Edition
(c) Cool Chardonnay

One riesling, one roussanne/marsanne and six chardonnay make up the gaggle of white wines and there is never any wonder why this country’s most successful grape variety always occupies more spots than any other single variety. The 15th International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration took place in July, 2025 and while every annual Niagara chardonnay experience is cool, this above the clouds 2025 edition was something other. Unexpectedly Godello was tasked with steering the educational component as emcee for the Thursday School of Cool at White Oaks Conference Resort and Spa. An honour and indeed a privilege it was, to share a stage with Canadian and international winemakers, winery representatives, distinguished minds and presenters. There was a palpable buzz in the room at this year’s School of Cool and also an uncommon level of expert conviction conferred by the moderators and panelists. The Canadian wine industry has assuredly come of age and chardonnay’s cool weekend was the perfect time to express the explorative, collaborative and measurable maturity of experience. Over those four days from July 17-20, the i4C was the coolest place to be.

Another solid showing for pinot noir although three were chosen as compared to five the previous year, a drop attributed to more cabernet franc and syrah making it into the fray. The rise in franc quality is a by-product of a collective new understanding by winemakers producing pure, unadulterated cabernet franc equipped with a true and clear message to represent a sense of pace. A confident prediction will see the number of franc hitting best of lists rise with increasing regularity, not as a trend but with the notion they are here to stay. The syrah clusterf%*k is another matter because of the winter catastrophe that wiped out most of the Okanagan’s plantings. The three chosen for 2025 are all profound examples and are here because of their excitement inducing factors, not because of empathy or sentimentality. The finale is a remarkable red blend at a steal of a price from a winery that produces bigger red blends at much higher costs, but this one is “real indeed, honest as F and clearly made in good faith.” Far too good to ignore.

Meritage is still a big deal and stylistically speaking, some of the most complex Canadian red blends are the equivalent or coalescence of two famous European attributes, they being the French garrigue and Italian macchia. Still others bring about a mix of merde Française and Italianate animale. In such cases tasters are split between the forces of complexity and flaws. Unwanted microbes are distractions, especially Brettanomyces which is not an accent upon the language of great wine. Canadian wine consumers are fortunate because their makers’ cellars are cleaner (and not nearly as old) as many Euro counterparts and to a winemaker, clean and technically sound wine is this country’s wine religion. Thank goodness for that.

Canadian judges concluded the annual 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada with a resounding roar in thanks to the ever increasing quality this country puts forth year after year. The 2025 edition was once again held in Penticton heading up towards the northerly growing areas in the Okanagan Valley. Evening programs between site visits took place at JoieFarm Winery hosted by BC Winegrowers; Liquidity Winery with Mission Hill, CedarCreek, Martin’s Lane, CheckMate, Red Barn at Jagged Rock and Road 13; Garnet Valley Ranch with the Summerland Bottleneck Drive members. These get togethers take judging wines blind to another level by solidifying their meaning when tasted with the producers who make them.

In nine days 2026 will be upon us and the new year will mark a change in job description with the addition of a new title: National Wine Advisor to Canada’s Great Kitchen Party. Thank you to David Lawrason, on a deeply personal level, for your many years of contribution and all you have done for Kitchen Party and Canadian wine. We have all witnessed the growth, maturity and excellence of the culinary events during which David has been instrumental in bringing the finest Canadian wines to light. “I will never forget how he stood at the Kitchen Party podium some 12 years ago and introduced me as “Canada’s wine wordsmith,” a compliment taken to heart and an encouragement to always be myself. You have been an inspiration, a great friend and colleague. As my true mentor in wine journalism it feels only fitting to take the Kitchen Party baton from you, now proud and honoured to act as this next messenger for Canadian wines and to share their world class quality with Canadians, from Victoria to St. Johns.”

Godello’s annual crème de la crème collection is a matter of messenger passing on a message from all the vintners, winemakers and marketers that bring Canadian wine to the people. So many worthy wines are omitted not because they lack stuffing, honesty or quality. Twenty five is still a very small number representing just two and a half percent of what is tasted each year and so let us give credit to those that are here. These are the twenty-five Canadian wines that rocked in 2025.

School of Cool squadra; Josh Horton (Lightfoot & Wolfville), Marty Werner (MW Wines), Ben Minaker (Andrew Peller) and Dr. Jennifer Kelly (CCOVI)

Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut Rosé 2021, Nova Scotia

Organic pinot noir and by now this must be the fifth or sixth leaf for Raven Hill Vineyard fruit situated directly across the road from the winery. The Lightfoot & Wolfville sparkling wine program has matured into one of Canada’s best under the leadership of talented winemaker Josh Horton and vintage Brut Rosé takes a giant leap forward with the 2021 vintage. Beyond balance and now riveted up with a next level transference of fruit gaining in experience aged on really fine lees. The result is increased clarity and a beguiling ride for the senses. An exciting Wolfville bubble, ideal for this holiday season and into the beyond. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted December 2025

With Jonas Newman, Hinterland Winery and The Grange of Prince Edward

Hinterland Blanc De Blancs 2020, VQA Ontario, VQA Prince Edward County

Hard not to couple Les Etoiles and Blanc de Blancs, especially when you taste the two side by each. From that blend of three varieties to here, a solo artist as chardonnay that speaks so succinctly in Jonas Newman’s scintillant of a sparkling wine. It takes a village and a warm vintage to make a B de B with this much polyteleías character, beyond luxe to luxurious and more. The estate-grown chardonnay is aged n 500L five year-old barrels for 10 months ahead of its tirage. Ages in bottle flat on slats for 36 months through to a November 2024 disgorgement. Where fruit meets limestone. The 2020 is quite glorious, thank you very much. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted December 2025

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2018, VQA Short Hills Bench

To invoke an Asteroid City concept, the time is always right to taste Cuvée Catherine, This becasue it’s simply never a sparkling wine we need to see in “the wrong way,” as Kafka once wrote, “to be able to see things the right way.” Many bubbles fall into the category of that conundrum but in Ontario the Speck brothers’ Carte Blanche always gets the art right. It excuses us the need to learn that artifice is the antithesis of affect, if simply because it is a fizz that presents a consistently clear vision of sparkling winemaking as an art form that casts a light, illuminates and enriches. Case in point and again with 2018, perhaps the most decadent of them all, perfectly aligning base wine fruit with secondary fermentation and felicitous acidity towards an elasticity that snaps back on the palate with each sip. If you need to ask did it turn out, the answer will always be, Cuvée Catherine always turns out. One day the H of P boys have got to pour this for the filmmaker because their’s is benchmark cinematic bubble. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2025

Godello and Pender

Tawse Spark David’s Block Blanc De Blancs 2010, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Four months should not make much of a difference when talking about and assessing a sparkling wine spent….180 months on the lees…but time’s a tickin’ and so 120-130 days does change the matter. The soothsaying work of the late great Mr. Pender foresaw this ability to not only hang in, but do so with toughness, grit and impressive grip. The flavours are oxidative and phenolic freight demands our attention. In the end the wine thrives…and survives. Drink 2025-2027. Last tasted November 2025

En triage 12 years and just about as dry as they come for a sparkling chardonnay that then winemaker Paul Pender made the choice to go highest acid (9.8 g/L) and lowest dosage (2 g/L). Fascinating as always to look back at some of the earliest Spark! sparkling wines from the coolest of cool chardonnay. This bottle does however feel every day of its age. Notably mushroom, toasty and autolytic. Interesting and though there is some persistent acidity the freshness for this bottle has gone long in the tooth. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

No this is not an optical illusion but it may be a test. A 2010 Blanc de Blancs is in fact chardonnay by now aged nearly 14 years on the lees and if nothing else the colour of this sparkling wine is virtually impossible. Magic at least and the aromas tell another incredulous story. There is petrol in the aromatic mix, as if this were riesling and so maybe think about Icewine, how even chardonnay can develop these sorts of mineral-gaseous aromas with enough time in bottle. As here with sparkling wine and the most fascinating look at Spark in its many varied iterations. There is a note that reminds of Vermouth and so freshness is not the operative word but complexity surely is. Just a faint bit of Rancio, nutty and distinct, so worth the detour. And priceless. Tasted November 2024

Dean Stoyka and J-L Groux – Stratus Vineyards

Stratus Blanc De Blancs 2017, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Have always found the 100 percent Stratus chardonnay twice fermented as Blanc De Blancs to reside and take a rightful place amongst the most complex in Canada. Generally speaking the wine ages six years on the lees and now eight years post vintage you can add stunning idiosyncratic personality to already guaranteed complexity, because my goodness what magic and fantasy are going on here? What wizardry of physiological conversion from chardonnay to Blanc De Blancs is happening? Scents are savoury to a level that invokes some Mediterranean macchia, phenolics are indicated by a ginger and allied friends spice masala, bitters are of a fine digestive tincture, distilled from compound leaf exotica. Not only unfamiliar but come from a wild mix of South Asian and Southeast Asian aromatics to put this B de B in a sparkling guild of its own. Have never tasted anything like it. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted November 2025

Marty Werner

York Vineyards Reserve Brut, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Mon dieu the tight energy wind is ready to explode – but not quite yet. Pent up like no other Niagara sparkler, on the lake or otherwise, fuelled by emotion and toasty intensity this close to letting loose. Would wait another few months to allow for further lees meets fruit and acid development, pegging and coalescence. The sky is the limit for the Brut NV, top of the bubbling heap for York Vineyards. Drink 2026-2031. Last tasted November 2025

York Vineyards’ Brut is a two-thirds to one-third chardonnay-pinot noir joint that sees 72 months on the lees. A sparkling sensation taking the country and apparently also the world by storm. The attention to detail, focus and determination are credible, felt with palpable energy and there is no doubt as to how much trial, experimentation and consideration went into making this and other York Vineyards wines. The Reserve moniker may at times feel like an add on but here one can imagine the assessment of base wines and the selection being both a stringent and anticipatory one. This is richness off the proverbial Ontario charts with a toasty-autolytic complex character that defies regularity. Toned, defined and appreciable because the flesh is yet to fully develop. Tasted November 2024

Culmina Winery, Oliver

Culmina Riesling Decora Margaret’s Bench Vineyard 2021, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

There is Decora and then there is the high elevation vineyard above the Golden Mile Bench boundary qualification in the South Okanagan. Margaret’s Bench is one of the area’s top riesling sites – Think of it as the Okanagan’s version of carricante growing above the Etna DOC designation, say in Rampante or Guardiola. The levels of extract, tannin and phenolic grip gather to elevate, lift and transmogrify riesling into something other, magical and munificent. Some age has already brought about the savoury honeyed effect, like Hunter Valley sémillon and the aforementioned L’Etna mystery. But this is the Okanagan and riesling gets no more amazing than this. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted November 2025

Geoffrey Moss M.W. – Søren Wines

Søren Results May Vary Roussanne Marsanne 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Can’t imagine Geoffrey Moss M.W.’s choice of wording is in ode to Limp Bizkit’s fourth studio album, though you just never know and with this rather dubious first Rhône-ish Blanc he might say “Gimme the Mic.” Perhaps also “Red Light-Green Light” because along with his first kick at syrah the pair signal the arrival of two important wines onto the Okanagan, British Columbian and Canadian markets. Results May Vary is a joint roussanne-marsanne with a gently swaying mix of optimism, optimally ripe fruit and the sweet support of stride for stride acidity. Dutiful march up the sides of the jawline and across the palate with each green grape providing, integrating and then connecting for equal contributive proportion. Terrific effort for this dual purposed nexus of Rhône varieties done up with distinction as a promise of the Okanagan Valley. Can’t wait to try this again, but also future iterations that will surely evolve towards the profound, one subtle step at a time. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted January 2025

The Long Way Home Chardonnay 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench

The next Beamsville Bench 2023 Long Way Home chardonnay from one time Hidden Bench and South African winemaker Marlize Beyers may just be her deepest metaphorical exploration, of Escarpment longing and the quest for inner varietal peace. Notes of vivid aromatics and metaphors are imagined, whether conventional or unconventional, yet all speak to the long journey. Balance is struck between fruit and barrel, ripeness and elastic tension, all primed and relished this time around. Everyone waits for great chardonnay and when it is found, inner peace becomes the satisfying result. And so if you have ever said “love’s the only thing I’ve ever known,” consider adding chardonnay to the longing and looking past this 2023 would be a missed opportunity. Once again and this time with the writer’s original gravelly bawl, “come with me, together we can take the long way home.” Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

The Senchuks – Leaning Post

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Sharp and pinpointed without equivocation in home base chardonnay of vines further matured into early adulthood. Now in delivery for fineness and a development into true realism in western Niagara chardonnay. In fact place does not get any more west and so we begin to believe that the west is indeed the best. The concept may express a subjective opinion and also convey a preference for a specific geographic region but who can deny what the Senchuks have accomplished with the clay based block behind the winery. The 2022 is in fact a warm chardonnay from a cool climate that shows just the existential where and when history of a wine like this. With depth of flavour, rise and length. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Quails’ Gate Winemaker Kailee Frasch

Quails’ Gate Chardonnay Rosemary’s Block 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

From first nose you just know this is proper chardonnay and without question the one that comes from a pinpointed place. Sapid and tonic-driven chardonnay with wood spice and a whiff of smoulder, slightly higher acetic presence as well. All these things are within reason and the lemony character is really what defines the wine. The aromas are distinct, the flavours compact and the finish elastic. Everything reaches out to be experienced, snaps back, retreats behind the wood and comes back out again. Repeats the process ad infinite though not without a kind of quiet or demure. Grace and charm are evident while tension keeps the energy alive. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Grimsby Hillside Vineyard

Bachelder Chardonnay Frontier Block Grimsby Hillside Vineyard 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

The golden Grimsby Hillside Vineyard child is Frontier Block, with no dis to Red Clay Barn Block, but of the two the weight, clarity, organic purity and morphological flexibility here is second to none. Simple to say but there’s so much more, including an elevated stone-mineral experience come from this GHV stunner, tasting exemplar finale for the Toussaint release played out in 14 chardonnay bars. If there were any wine produced from fruit raised out of this dubious reverse L-shaped vineyard located in the far western section of the Double “L” to make a case for designating a new Niagara sub-appellation – The Frontier Block would be that wine. The stage presence enables and enacts the most positive effect on pleasure and peace of mind. Pour this to only they who will appreciate the nuance, impeccable timing, structure and philanthropy. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted December 2025

Kaylee Barss, Checkmate Winery

Checkmate Chardonnay Capture Buena Vista Vineyard 2023, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

From the by now well famous Buena Vista Vineyard parcel near the US border at Osoyoos in the southern Okanagan. My goodness what restraint and linearity, tight lines and fruit wound around a spindle, winced like laces pulled perfectly tight. Fine and precise, a dare it be said perfect capture of chardonnay fruit from a perfect vintage. Simply, unequivocally and ostensibly wow. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2025

Winemaker Taylor Whelan

Mission Hill Perpetua 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Comes from Dijon planted clones in four blocks at Mission Hill’s Border Vista Vineyard in Osoyoos. Most southerly and warmest location at the border with Washington, one of Canada’s great vineyard sites and capable of delivering the highest quality of chardonnay. As it does from 2022 with perfectly judged reductive element for freshness incarnate urged to fruition by citrus and orchard fruit in the flesh. Last tasted September 2025

Big and fulsome chardonnay with a whole lotta love, Rosie and barrel going on. Steals the show with fruit the AC, barrel the DC, arriving together. Working as soulmates should, integrating, sharing and complimenting on another, words unspoken. Notes of lemon, pencil led and an airiness, rising overhead. Hand in hand and this is what we ask from chardonnay. Want a whole lotta this. Drink 2025-230. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Apāra Winery Gamay Noir 2023, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

The work and dream of Nav & Andreas only began in 2021 when land was acquired and then with 5,700 vines put into the ground the following year. Their wines are made at Rigour & Whimsy Winery in Okanagan Falls. Just 113 (sold out) cases were made of this three-day wild carbonic fermented gamay, 15 days total on skins, aged 6 months in neutral French oak, unfined and unfiltered. Love the spice cupboard on the gamay nose with freshest of fresh red fruit. Crunchy red without trying hard at any moment for the how, what and why it generously delivers in waves across your palate. Simply awesome cru-Beaujolais style. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2025

Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir Hieroglyph 2020, BC VQA Naramata Ranch

Stony does not begin to describe the nature and character of this phenolic pinot noir. First vintage for a single, south-facing block at the most northern end of the Naramata Bench, bordering Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park. Cliff-perched over the the lake and nutrient-poor soils of fine talcum powder glacial silt. Smallest of parcels for 100 cases from fruit picked on September 29th. Spontaneous fermentation, 80 percent whole cluster, 18 day maceration, 16 months in (25 percent new) French and Austrian wood. Magical conversion rate to 12.8 percent alcohol, impeccable balance between medium-key (5.8 g/L) acidity and (3.66) pH. Serious, structured and my kind of tension. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted June 2025

Closson Chase Pinot Noir South Clos 2023, VQA Prince Edward County

From demure to exuberance, leaving that absolutely fine and elegant 2021 and moving ahead two years into this powerful 2023 pinot noir. Then again the County and South Clos-ness can never be shaken or removed from the equation and frankly this sku is one of Canada’s most balanced varietal wines. Punch and circumstance combine for more power and pop but restraint as the wine’s middle name does keep SC grounded, with thanks to the agriculture meeting Keith Tyers’ acumen, steady in experienced winemaking hands. Some savour with verdant crunch this season, parts that will bolster structure and see this pinot noir age well into the next decade. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2025

Thomas Bachelder and Mary Delaney-Bachelder

Bachelder Pinot Noir Wild West End Wismer Parke Vineyard 2023, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Sure feels like we’ve left coach and now live comfortably in business class aboard the Bachelder pinot noir train. Still in Wismer Parke yet the seats are in the Wild West End, in most vintages a place of untamed territory, but 2023 is not every vintage. The amenability factor now runs about as high as it could possibly fly and while Wismer Parke expresses its sneaky structure at the last possible moment, in the Wild West End it makes itself known from the very beginning. This dichotomy of immediate gratification juxtaposed against age-ability makes this the most fascinating of the 2023s. The music is no longer Bluegrass but now Wild 80s Country where guitars, Cadillacs and hillbilly rule the day. That’s where pinot noir comes in because on this train “it’s the only thing that keeps me hangin’ on.” Drink 2026-2032. Tasted December 2025

Ron Giesbrecht – Wending Home

Wending Home Cabernet Franc Estate Vineyard 2021, VQA Creek Shores

First tasted blind and this second go leaves me duly impressed. This time knowing full well what wine is poured but no change in attitude or assessment – only reinforcement because Wending Home’s 2021 defines the beauty and potential of Niagara cabernet franc. Last tasted August 2025

Fulsome and well-oaked cabernet franc with all the fruits involved, of blacks, reds and especially blues. Very varietal in that respect yet without any sidling kinship to varieties like tempranillo, malbec or petit verdot. This is a seamless expression in which acidity plays a key role to lift, cool down and stretch fruit in the face of skin plus wood tannin. Impressive expression all around. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Winemaker Jonathan McLean, Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Tasting this from a bottle opened yesterday only reinforces the finding for what will go down as one of the finer cabernet francs ever made in Ontario. The cup runneth over with red fruit and varietal intangibles that only these Lincoln Lakeshore vines could have possibly produced. BBH’s 2022 was most certainly made in the vineyard, coaxed along in the cellar by the estate’s and founder Taylor Emerson’s most thoughtful winemaker Jonathan McLean. Last tasted July 2025

Juiciest of the cabernet franc and also one of the more tannic, a.k.a structured expressions. Comes at the palate (especially) in waves and with layers waiting to be peeled away, exposed and experienced. There is everything in this ultra special cabernet franc and it will live a very long time. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Grange Of Prince Cabernet Franc Edward Aurelia Series 2023, VQA Prince Edward County

What absolutely killer, beautiful and appropriate volatility in the sweetest and most elastic vein. There are Loire and Ontario cabernet franc and then comes along Aurelius at Prince Edward County’s Grange made by Jonas Newman – and the skies re-open. Feels like a cabernet franc epiphany sent after a storm with order restored post chaos and darkness. The wine’s opening salvo is something understood to be professional and artisanal rolling into the proverbial emergence from risk relatable to reward. Brightness and potential ensues. Near, near absolutely brilliant bottle of cabernet franc. The pinnacle is coming soon. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jesce Baessler – Corcelletes

Corcelettes Syrah 2022, BC VQA Similkameen Valley

Easily the biggest and most structured syrah of the lot, dripping with hematic juices, sanguine and also the greatest ferric presence. Massive waves of fruit and tannin, wood so very much a part of the mix and the style incomparable, save for like-minded efforts and with a nod to the motherland. Smoky bacon and acid structure. The most complete example for aging long term. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Rainmaker Wines Syrah Viognier The Modernist 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

The epitome of (Barbecue) smoked meats as a hunch in syrah, more beef than pork and with all the attributes the variety is bent to display when a place and winemaking conspire to bring purity and reality to the table. Love the meat sweats feeling, the full concentration of fruit and the seriousness of mineral running through. Top notch without any semblance of lean, mean or green character. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Black Hills Winemaker Ryan McKibbon

Black Hills Estate Winery Bona Fide 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Real indeed, honest as F and clearly made in good faith, of 42 percent malbec with carménère and syrah for one of this country’s most determined and yet genuinely restrained red blends. There is no mistaking or missing the purity of the blue meets purple fruit of malbec, nor the righteous use of toasty and sweetly vegetal carmenère. The syrah is the tie that binds, the meaty and juicy rare cut of beef that lends both a mildly smoky but also rich depth of plasma and iodine. You will be forgiven for imagining Chile, Argentina or South Africa, yet you will be rewarded for celebrating the Okanagan Valley-ness of the final effect. That from a complete wine which is silken, virtuous and proper. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2025

Okanagan Valley

Painted Rock Syrah 2022, BC VQA Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley

The 2022 is a bold and patented syrah with trenchant purpose and likely clocking in at a higher alcohol level than the rest of the Painted Rock reds. Just a hair short of 15 percent, wily, woolly, fruit gilded and exotically perfumed to the hilt. Silken and suave but not without a sense of “animale,” as can also be said of some northern Rhône syrah. Drink a glass too fast and you may feel as though you are sporting a hairshirt on the skin as a form of religious penance or self-discipline. The structure is in fact impeccably conceived and constructed, which is to say a few years down the road you will appreciate this wine for how it has moved from green to red. Share it with people who make a difference in your life, put on the seminal pop-transition record by R.E.M. and say to them “feed me banks of light and hang your hairshirt on the lowest rung. It’s a beautiful life.” Drink 2027-2034. Tasted April 2025

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Sizing up southern roots in Puglia

Oct30

Radici del Sud

At the behest of friend, colleague, mentor, journalist, educator and master Italian wine specialist Richard Baudains, Godello travelled to Bari and then to Gioia del Colle to be a party to, tour and judge southern Italian wines at the 20th edition of Radici del Sud. The events took place from June 4-9, 2025, including the blind tasting wine competition inside the Former Distillery, now renovated events space of Paolo Cassano. Over the course of five days a group of writers and buyers transversed the Gioia del Colle and Mandurian landscapes, walked the hallowed streets of Bari, broke bread with the Apulian natives and engaged with the Nepente di Oliena Cannonau of Sardegna. At the competition four national and international panels blind tasted more than 100 southern Italian wines in two sessions, but only after zeroing in on and celebrating the multifarious wonders found within the 500,000 annual bottle production of primitivo, inclusive of a Baudains led Gioia del Colle Masterclass. See below for Godello’s 90 tasting notes from the week.

Godello at Fantalone, Image (c) Nikki Dickerson

The Radici del Sud wine competition is an annual international event that showcases and judges wines made from indigenous grapes grown in the southern regions of Italy, including Puglia, Sardinia, Sicily, Campania and Calabria. The competition is part of a multi-day festival, featuring the judging by national and international wine journalists, plus a separate B2B meeting event for buyers and importers, all of which culminates in an awards ceremony and a grand public tasting. The focus of the event highlights and promotes the wines and olive oils of Southern Italy and the ultimate goal of the Radici del Sud competition is to increase international recognition and market access for sometimes overlooked Southern Italian wines.

Gioia del Colle Primitivo @ Fatalone

Gioia del Colle: Limestone, Primitivo and Racemi

The touring focused on Puglia’s karstic countryside, the Murgia Plateau, Valle d’Itria, Salento peninsula and most specifically the area of Gioia del Colle, smack dab in the heart of Puglia. Here the landscape is characterized by the dissolution of soluble rock, mainly limestone and a surface of fertile soil, dry-stone walled rural architecture and many masserie (farmhouses). Gioia del Colle is a seemingly flat plateau ranging just a few kilometres from the sea but with ample elevation to capture more freshness in the wines than most growing areas of Puglia. Giovanni Aiello is one such proprietor at Cantina Enologo per Amore di Giovanni Aiello, where he has been making modernist wines for 10 years, first as a garagiste and now with a full winemaking facility. He studied in Udine and France, worked in Veneto, Friuli, California and Australia, then heeded a calling to return and make wine on his land. There was no winemaking history in his family, but his roots travelled within him and then returned alongside this prodigal son.

Arrosticini at Aiello

Gioia del Colle’s 2024 season was hot and dry and yet Aiello’s primitivo are of the freshest kind and his Blue Label Bubbles capture a lemon zesty energy using the local verdesca (a.k.a. verdeca) in a white blend. There is no missing the fine bitters and sweet herbs in this classic method sparkling wine, more than a quick lees accumulation for texture and a flavour profile right where you want it to be. Tenuta Viglione was founded in 1937 and remains a family-owned operation, run by third-generation proprietor Giovanni Zullo and his offspring. The location is the Altopiano delle Murge, a plateau at 450m, farmed organically on the classic karst soils of limestone over clay.

Giovanni Aiello

Masseria Cuturi dates to 1881, just four kms from the sea and where a river flows beneath 300 hectares with primitivo vines first planted in this area of Manduria’s Conca d’Oro. The vine cuttings were part of the dowry when Tommaso Schiavoni Tafuri married the countess Sabini. In 2007 the Masseria no longer held a vineyard and the family of Camilla Rossi Chauvenet decided to restore the property where an impressive hospitality now exists next to vineyards of 40 hectares of vines, compared with the original 100. Cuturi’s intensive attention to agriculture, led by Rossi Chauvenet, agronomist Angelo Bagorda and winemaker Roberto Cardilli, amalgamates the historical past, present and future winemaking of Manduria.

Pasquale Petrera, Fatalone

Meanwhile, at Fatalone Pasquale Petrera is fifth generation on his farm set at 400m on the edge of the Murgia Plateau. The tertiary soil rich in limestone and fossils, sea breeze influence and two-arm-trained open Alberello vines are the trifecta determination for 12 hectares of primitivo and one of greco. The first vintage was 1987 and Pasquale likes to play music to his wild fermented, organic wines in the cellar. He is a pioneer of making Racemi, a second harvest of primitivo that comes from the lower hanging feminnile bunches, taken a month after the main pick. The Accademia dei Racemi is a collaborative project of several small estates in Puglia that focuses on the technique and the lighter-bodied, Rosato style of wine made from the Racemi. There is a kinship between these Rosé and the Cerasuolo di Montepulciano of Abruzzo, if only in style and not by method. Explains Petrera, “the presence of Racemi on the vines helps in avoiding over-ripening of the main grapes.” There was a time when these wines were stored in cold caves and brought out to be consumed in summer time. As for primitivo, the monks chose it for the region because it is a late budding variety, usually after Spring frosts, even though it is also an early ripener. Though typically high in alcohol, Fatalone’s primitivo maintains high acidity and shows great potential for aging, again with help from the presence of the Racemi.

Wine Competition Winners 2025

Tasting notes on Radici del Sud Wine Competition Winners as Chosen by National and International Judges

Cantina Santadi Solais Brut NV Vino Spumante Di Qualità, Sardegna

Vermentino aromatics, marine airy and salty, somewhat neutral without any floral or herbal notes. Good presence of bitters and a push-pull posit tug between the salty and the sapid. The length is really quite good. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Cantine Benvenuto Sughero Storto Vino Spumante Bianco Zibibbo, Calabria

A Calabrese zibbibo with a forceful entry part Limoncello, part rosewater and part diesel. Palate is most interesting, racy and savoury, quite herbaceous and full of character, Good concentration as well, lots of citrus flesh, zesty and bitter at the finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Cantine del Notaio La Stipula Rosé Metodo Classico Millesimato Brut Aglianico 2014, Basilicata

Lees character all over the top as should happen from a 10-plus year-old sparkling wine. Made with aglianico from Basilicata, clearly ambitious or perhaps still with bottles to sell. It’s come away quite clean and characterful with some raw almond, decent concentration and complexity. Mature, settled and elegant. Drink 2025. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Vignuolo Primavera Frizzante Da Bombino Nero 2024, Puglia

A bombino nero giving a blush hue to this curious sparkling wine. Ok on the nose with a cherry-yeasty character though the palate walks with a funky gait. Not perfectly clean and the flavours are hard to get along with. Acidity is detached from the body and those flavours. Drink 2025. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Santa Lucia Gazza Ladra 2024, Fiano Puglia IGT

Notable fiano nose, also Pugliese of warmth and sun cumulate platinum gold. Good extract and balance, acids captured and expressive with fine almond bitters arriving late. Higher quality example than many though perhaps just a bit of residual sugar distraction. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Tenute Bellamarina Galè 2024, Fiano Puglia IGT

Fresh, lemony Pugliese fiano with just a faint hit of aromatic bitters. Not particularly concentrated, herbal and with ample if nothing striking about its acidity. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Tenuta Massanova Ziopì 2021, Cilento Fiano DOP

Named for Davide’s Uncle Pino, a quick maceration, reductive, golden and mature nose, a style perhaps but as a 2021 fiano the evolution is more than obvious. The toasty quality suggests wood somewhat overused but in fact the wine only sees steel. While it’s fine and nice enough as a wine and also surely past prime, there is so much glycerol for a white wine. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted twice, including first blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Vini Contrada Selvecorte 2021, Fiano Di Avellino DOCG

Pleasantries and complexities with persistent freshness in the fiano aromatics of a 2021 from Campania. Still crisp, zesty and savoury, hanging tough, grippy and strong with its extract and tannin in tow. Showing stage presence, tension, verve and drive. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Casa Comerci Greco Bianco Rèfulu 2024, Calabria PGI

A rich and well formulated, orchestrated and effectuated greco from Calabria. Some spice and zest, already at maturity and for now a fine and deliverable example. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

A.A. Antonio Covuccia Greco di Tufo DOCG “1959” 2024, Campania

Fine enough though not quite showing its varietal character as it might. Lemon-lime and good though not exceptional acidity. Less showy and needs time to open up, getting better with air and time. Natural, working through its machinations organically and coming away fine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Palamà Vinicola nel Salento Negroamaro Metiusco Rosato 2024, Salento IGP, Puglia

Fine use of negroamaro as Rosato, Tavel hue acceded like red roses and there is both fruit plus grip on this really proper example. Ticks the boxes and pleases in the way it should and will. Acidity is spot on to seal the deal. This is well made Salento all the way. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Plantamura Primitivo Rosato 2024, Puglia IGP

Soft and candied primitivo Rosato, semi-candied in the sweet spun sugar way and the residual sugar felt in the flavours confirms the style. Commercial. Fine enough and accessible if no excitement or curiosity aboard. Also a bit high in VA. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Agri Girardi Primitivo Pirok 2024, Puglia Rosato IGP

Light and fuzzy strawberry peach version of Rosato with primitivo on the right track, though there is a pinch or two extra residual sugar that feels unnecessary. More than ample fruit and concentration meet up with acidity for what would have been a pretty fine example. In any case there will be plenty of likes and takers for this wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Fralo’ Cassandra Rosato 2023, Puglia IGP

Tang and sweetness define the style of a joint Rosato between nero di troia and malvasia nera. Getting the carob and liquorice in an over leathery fruit and caramel flavour way. Odd, to be honest and close to oxidative. Drink 2025. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Statti Batasarro 2020, Lamezia Riserva DOC, Calabria

A sour edged gaglioppo, full on tang, tart stone fruit and dangerously close to reaching the acetic threshold. Quite vivid in regard to palate tension, somewhat wood-induced, chalky and challenging. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

I Vini di Montemarcuccio Ottavianello Elpis 2024, Valle d’Itria IGP, Puglia

Crunchy and fresh ottavianello, ripe and ready, inviting and full of energy. A correct and modern enough way to express the ancient grape as it would wish to be. Clean and so bloody correct. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Famiglia De Cerchio Susumaniello Lampu 2022, Puglia IGT

Could only be a Pugliese red akin to primitivo and yet here as susumaniello there is more frutta di bosco as part of its personality. Also more Mediterranean, of black olive tapenade and coarse tannins, with enough fresh fruit to balance the rough and tumble profile. Perhaps just a bit of sweetness but the spice and tension truly work things out. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Tenute Pugliese Aleatico Naumanni 2019, Puglia IGT

Unmistakable smell of mint mouthwash which translates as medicinal and surely a winemaking fault on this aleatico. It takes 20 minutes to open and once it does the macchia comes out, as does the residual sugar. Parochial red with little joy or charm at first but improves with air. Drink 2025. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Cantina La Giara Bovale La Giara 2022, Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT, Sardegna

A 100 precent Sardegnan bovale, not particularly aromatic but surely curious. There is a grenache like character with juicy red fruit and a simplicity for where its from. Mildly chalky beneath and a peppery liquid warmth but all in all the balance is quite good. Wood is used and done well. Needs a another year to settle in. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Massimo Lentsch Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Solo nerello mascalese, bright enough and also more tannic than many. Does not smell like volcanic Etna but more like something from the centre of Sicily. Perfectly fine and getable without any great defining character or depth. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Massimo Lentsch Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2021

Only nerello mascalese and with some age which only serves to exaggerate the lift in this particular example. Maturing with drying fruit and tannin. Drink 2025. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Pietraventosa Primitivo 2019, Puglia IGT

Reductive, dirty and ultra natural on the nose. Also cloyingly sweet and hot. Peppery hot. Over the top. Not really showing its age as of yet. Perhaps time will heal some of the wounds. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Agri Girardi Primitivo Bartolo Riserva 2019, Gioia del Colle DOC

Very much a big and ambitious primitivo, heavy of extraction, pressing and elévage. Some barriques surely, also new and mixed with other vessels delivering a full complement of modernity in primitivo. Will really appeal to those who like a clean, big and full-bodied expression. There is a sweetness here though nothing out of order and seemingly natural. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

A.A. Boccella Aglianico Rasott 2022, Campi Taurasini DOC, Campania

Drying, still grossly tannic and really tough aglianico in the really old school idiom. Antediluvian. May never be ready but perhaps it will come around in 2030! Minty, macchia, black olive and so bloody serious. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Tenuta Massanova Rapengolo 2017, Cilento Aglianico DOP

Aged in a mix of steel and botte grande (second passage 23 hL French, for about a year). Still some reductive elements holding back the fruit despite this being a seven and a half year-old Campanian aglianico and so there is freshness that persists. Laden with soupy flavours, not cooked but now secondary in terms of caramel and soy, which means not much fruit left to shine. That said the tannins are as sweet as they are grippy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted twice, including first blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Cantine del Notaio Aglianico Il Sigillo 2017, Aglianico Del Vulture DOC, Basilicata

Maturing, dried fruit and sweet acidity with some residual sugar. Brown sugar and that caramelization meeting unique curiosity continues giving the wine some potential. In fact it seems hard to believe it’s as old as 2017, seeing as how certain parts have yet to fully emerge from the tannic shell. There is an aura to Sigillo, a.k.a “the seal,” as by a notary, wink, wink. Note the chalky mineral expressed in the sanguinity of this unique aglianico. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted twice, including first blind at Radici del Sud, June 2025

Richard Baudains – Primitivo Masterclass

Gioia del Colle Primitivo Masterclass

Curtomar Tino Primitivo Terracava 2023, Gioia del Colle DOC

Perfumed primitivo in the violet range and a lightness in the aromatic space followed by acidity and succulence for a mouthwatering proposition. Does well to cover and keep its alcohol (15 percent) from presenting as anything but a normal part of the package. Bit chalky but really quite easy to like. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted June 2025

Tenute Bradascio Primitivo Le Graie 2022, Gioia del Colle DOC

A primitivo that presents itself with the barrel above all else and while the alcohol here is lower (13.5 percent declared) it does not come across as a lighter style. The wood is on top, emulsifying the middle and spicing the finish. Some green hide behind which explains the style. Not perfectly phenolic in ripeness. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Primitivo Marpione Riserva 2022, Gioia del Colle DOC

Well extracted and clearly the source of an older vineyard with the experience of vines laying the groundwork and foundation for top quality fruit. The spicing is omnipresent, both from quality primitivo and also the casks that give and keep on giving. Will gain an advantage with some years in bottle. Drink 2027-2032. T asted June 2025

A.A. Lanzolla Bartolomeo Primitivo Le Mugè 2021, Gioia del Colle DOC

Also violet perfume and fruity eau de vivre or vape liquid, a juicy aromatic quality although wood once again makes itself known. Quality acids but something is off and the tannins are brittle, falling apart at the finish. Flawed primitivo, likely a combination of over maturity meeting excessive VA. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Ninni Primitivo Càmila 2021, Gioia del Colle DOC

Juicy through and through, a primitivo that offers up a transparency about who it is and where it’s from. Crispy and crunchy with its own Balsamico, liquid chalky, purple fruit, concentrated though not over extracted. Well made, clean, lengthy and a charming success. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted June 2025

Plantamura Primitivo Etichetta Nera/C.da San Pietro 2021, Gioia del Colle DOC

Rich and brimming with savoury elements in an exaggeration of Balsamico riches befitting the local macchia. Juicy and succulent to find some necessary balance. A crispy quality and a year will bring better times although five will usher in a time of truffles and earthiness. That said it is only the terroir that will bring this effect because no wood is used in aging this primitivo. Chimes in at 14.5 percent alcohol and pleases with fruit from its natural calcareous charges. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Primitivo Masterclass

Centovignali Primitivo Pentimone 2021, Gioia del Colle DOC

Quite a savoury primitivo with a fullness of barrel straight away on substantial fruit from what feel like experienced if not quite old vines. It’s a bit hot frankly and oddly peppery, like certain syrah from south-central Sicily. Ambitious and gangly, some awkwardness and not quite finding its syncopation. Clocks in at 15.5 percent (declared). Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Vigna Liponti Primitivo Nascìddò 2019, Gioia del Colle DOC

Time has done well to bring this 2019 into place and see it showing at peak in 2025. Tannins have resolved, acidity continues to thrive and the parts have all melted into the fabric of the wine. Chocolate is strong and dark but mint (Balsamico) and fruit have really come together as one. Alcohol is proper and integrated at 14.5 percent. The producer only makes primitivo for a total of 4,000-4,500 bottles per year. From 4,000 vines in one hectare. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

Cantine Barsento Primitivo Casaboli Riserva 2019, Gioia del Colle DOC

Very woody, was, is and will always be. Still very chalky beneath with tannins which remain unresolved. Seriously dark chocolate, very extracted and a bit too vivid overall. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted June 2025

Pietraventosa Primitivo Riserva 2019, Gioia del Colle DOC

Quiet aromas, still or perhaps not ever having been of gregarious nature. Wood holding court and then the wine opens on the palate. Reminds of many other dark and structured Italian wines, including montepulciano from Abruzzo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Agri Girardi Primitivo Bartolo Riserva 2019, Gioia del Colle DOC

The visits in Gioia del Colle and Manduria

Fatalone Greco Spinomarino 2024, Puglia IGT

Single vineyard of one hectare aged on lees for up to eight months and this 2024 was just bottled last week. A richness and creamy character through limestone mineral and with some fine bitters that define the finish. Vines with age and wisdom do well to concentrate and bring precision to this “lady killer,” a.k.a Pasquale’s grandfather. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Fatalone Primitivo Teres U Pr’Matìv’ 2024, Puglia IGT

The Rosato-styled primitivo comes from the Racemi, the later harvest of second bunches, a.k.a the feminile, direct pressed and coming away like a Cerasuolo as opposed to an early harvested, paler and first pressed Rosé. Definite phenolic presence and like in the old days a summer red to be chilled and spilled. Really liking the spiciness on the tip of the tongue. The alcohol is 14.5 percent and just so you know, this is not Rosé. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Fatalone Primitivo U Pr’Matìv’ 2024, Gioia del Colle DOC

Campione: The first batch was already bottled and this is the second, a tank sample but essentially a finished wine. Phenolic ripeness is achieved with dark if just a bit sour cherry, mint and mulberry, developed and locally proper at 15.5 percent alcohol. The presence of Racemi, the second buds and bunches on the vines harvested later is what keeps the acidity strong, the jam kept away and the prospect for aging also strong. The finish is all about a salty pique on the finish, an aftertaste of toasted almond and the Gioia del Colle Balsamico. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Fatalone Primitivo Riserva U Pr’Matìv’ 2022, Gioia del Colle DOC

Just bottled, longer micro-oxygenation in Slavonian (Garbellotto) cask, an exaggeration of riches with impacting acidity which is common to all of Fatalone’s wines, necessary to handle the 16.0 percent alcohol. Not overripe or overwhelming, but just the fact that primitivo buds late and is then harvested early. The wood certainly concentrates and thickens the fruit and though there is more creamy texture there is also an inherent ability to age well forward. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted June 2025

Fatalone Primitivo Riserva U’Pr’Mat’ve 2015, Gioia del Colle DOC

Ten years of age but really youthful, as predicted but still a surprise. The anti-oxidant properties of primitivo (when worked in this respectful way) will find the path to long aging and that is precisely what’s happened here. Notes stay consistent with the 2022 but the density and concentration have stretched with great elastic ability. Lovely natural sweetness meeting the finishing bay spice and local Gioia del Colle Balsamico. Was 15 percent alcohol back in 2015. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Fatalone Primitivo Riserva Speciale U’Pr’Mat’ve 2001, Gioia del Colle DOC

Now 24 years ago and fully secondary with only a hint of tertiary where the mint chocolate is now fully out there, expressed and defining this old primitivo. The toasted almond bitters are also present if fading and softened. Very good showing for a wine of this age, tannins log gone, acidity also softened and persistently sweet, frutta di bosco all in. Just 15 percent but still, already at 15 in 2001. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Susumaniello Morso Rosa 2024, Rosato Puglia IGP

Return of an old Brindisi variety now fashionable again, made here in a pale style with the name that recalls the local Puglian donkey – susumaniello. Stony and salty, truly unique, a fine grapefruit bitterness and really no connection or resemblance to Rosé made with primitivo. A little bit of wood (two weeks at the end of fermentation) and bâttonage bring a certain no lo so to this curious Rosato. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Johe 2021, Rosso Puglia IGP

A fifty-fifty joint between primitivo and aleatico, the latter being an aromatic red grape usually made as a dessert wine. The power meets the flower and spices run amok on the nose, of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. Quite punchy and foxy for a wine that harkens a time when the two varieties would have been co-planted in the vineyards. Some sweetness for sure with 13 g/L of residual sugar and as a result lower alcohol at 13 percent. Needs to be chilled. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Primitivo Riserva Marpione 2021, Gioia del Colle DOP

The highest level of quality for primitivo for Tenuta Viglione aged in 3000L cask and also barriques, always since 2021. Most of the fruit comes from the oldest alberello vineyard planted by Giovanni’s grandfather 80 years ago. The vineyard now produces only 3,500 kilos per hectare and so another older vineyard is sourced to be able to make more production. An exaggeration of Balsamico riches, seriously toasted almond bitterness and darkest of black cherries. Acids are more than ample and this 2021 should age well for a further five to seven years. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Primitivo Riserva Marpione 2011, Gioia del Colle DOP

Nearly 14 years of primitivo age for the top label as Riserva holding well although the varietal identity is starting to merge into the secondary character of the wine. Balsamico and toasted almond still there, fruit vaguely hanging around and more mineral from this vintage. Proper interpretation of the (at the time) 65-plus yer-old alberello vineyard. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Viglione Primitivo Riserva Marpione 2004, Gioia del Colle DOP

From the alberello vineyard planted 60 years before this vintage and with twenty years of age there is now a full on tertiary with the Balsamico showing as chocolate mint so typical of primitivo at this age. Historical time, grape and place were clearly more about the barrel and here that really shows. Wood had lasted longer than fruit. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Cuturi

Masseria Cuturi Femi Negroamaro Rosato 2024, Salento IGP

Early harvested negroamaro and this 2024 is the first vintage for the new label. Indelible stamp of Cuturi and scent of fresh strawberry, spicy, herbal, salty and savoury, relentless in its intensity. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Cuturi Negramaro Zacinto 2021, Salento IGP

Quite the full aromatic expression of the local negro, dry, upwardly mobile acidity, lower pH and Macchia Medditeranea from the place with a lot of rock. A year of tank aging followed by another year in bottle for ultra freshness and a varietal drinking ability second to none. Not only a brilliant rendition of the relationship but surely the sort of example to reach out far and wide to tell the world. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Cuturi Aglianico 2021, Salento IGP

Camilla Rossi Chauvenet, owner in Valpolicella at Massimago and here with Masseria Cuturi believes in this grape for Manduria. As with the negroamaro the raising is a year in steel tank followed by one in bottle. More upfront tannic presence that carries the structure of a wine unable to avoid its nature but nurture here is as strong a driver with thanks to care put in by agronomist Angelo Bagorda and consulting oenologist Valentino Ciarla. Intensity of acidity and a brightness on the palate of dark red citrus from pomegranate to an electric current of red currants. A relentless palate attack but without Campania’s drying and demanding style of tannins. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Cuturi Primitivo di Manduria DOC Licuturi 2021

Masseria Cuturi Primitivo di Manduria DOC Monte Diavoli 2020

From the most important vineyard, here out of a drier vintage with more heat than the following 2021. The alcohol is a half point higher and has to be but the exaggerations of macchia, Balsamico and general Cuturi savour (including the uncanny scent of fenugreek) coming along for the more concentrated ride. There is spice but no heat, terrific acidity and when tasted alongside Licuturi, but also the aglianico and negroamaro, well the diversity in the wines is quite impressive. All show freshness that’s distinctive and so welcome. For Angelo this is what Cuturi can do in a shadowed comparison to pinot noir, albeit with darker fruit from higher mineral meets calcari soil. If we must pick a place it would be Chambolle-Musigny but this is southern Puglia with primitivo and so think what you will. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted June 2025

Masseria Cuturi Tumà 2023, Salento IGP

Named after Don Tommaso, here in Manduria affectionately known as Tumà for a primitivo of the sharpest red fruit in full on sapid tang. The one that is both salty and phenolic, an intensity captured through acidity and limestone rich soil for another unique Masseria Cuturi expression. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted June 2025

Picciomoro Aleatico 2021, Passito Salento IGT

The estate’s best use for the local aleatico variety is a sweet wine made in the tradition of Valpolicella by drying grapes and then reviving them for a finish at 17.5 percent alcohol. Rich and spicy, a thread woven from the dry reds through to a Recioto ringer in Manduria. Everything here is spiced and piqued, tart and sparked. Great interest here for sure. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Metodo Classico Millesimato 2022

Early picked chardonnay grown in the commune of Maruggio in Taranto, Manduria four kms from the Ionian Sea. First vintage was 2019, 36 months on lees. Leesy, autolytic, textured and warm chardonnay style. Lemon curd with a phenolic meets tonic twist. More than curious, clean and complex. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Fiano Gravara 2024

Steel only, on lees just a few months and bottled in March. The name comes from the rocky soil and the area where most of the white wine grapes have been planted. Lemony and phenolic, a sapid white of clean bitters and tonic. Simple and just a bit tannic. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Ananta Susumaniello Rosato 2024

A resurrection of the once much used Pugliese variety now popular for Rosato and here with 10 percent aged in wood. Bright and salty, light and pale pink, very much a summertime drink when primitivo does not fit the weather. Clean, fit, dry and quenching. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Mirea 2023, Primitivo di Manduria DOP

From 60-70 year-old alberelli grown primitivo where vines and fruit conspire for elevated alcohol upwards of 17.5 percent. To be fair it hides it quite well with the effects of American oak involved, of vanilla and a toasted coconut but cooled, minty and without finishing heat. The vessels used are barriques, tonneaux and botti. No lacking fruit, not particularly jammy and about as balanced as could be with a wine of this maturity. Still be careful because a Port-like red will get on top of you quickly. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Primitivo Saracena 2023, Primitivo di Manduria DOP

Late August picked primitivo that create their own natural appassimento, put to wooden crates to dry for 10 days for more fruit concentration. Forty percent of the grapes’ water evaporates and then the wood aging begins. The mix of concentration and barrel makes for the biggest mouthful in primitivo. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Negroamaro Liala 2023, Salento IGP

Chosen from 80 year-old alberello vines growing near the town of Salice Salento where the estate farms five hectares. Formidable concentration with spice run here, amok and everywhere, dark and deep, tannic and brooding. Minty spice as well, the macchia if you will and a notable sweetness. Seventy percent sees seven to eight months in a combination of barriques and 3,000L botti. Thickly textured, juicy and just elastic enough “to not go boom” says Elena. It’s a style and balanced within its broad parameters. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted June 2025

Masseria del Borgo dei Trulli Primitivo Duna Mirante 2022, Primitivo di Manduria DOP

Literally from the seaside near the town of Campomarino, planted on Ionian sands on the dunes of Monaco Mirante just 300m from the ocean on 60-70 alberello-trained vines. Lowest of yields for concentration and thick texture cut by marine air, salts and oyster meets anchovy umami. Still it comes in at 17 percent and shrinks away from nothing, but the most curious note is that of Worcesteshire. Also Vegemite meets tapenade. There is nothing like it, comes across mildly oxidative and yet feels fortified, able to age some years going forward. Nearly no sugar by the way and also no sulphites used. Finish goes to chocolate in the 50-55 percent range. 5,292 bottles produced and only in best vintages. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted June 2025

Masterclass: Nepente di Oliena Cannonau di Sardegna DOC

From the mix of granite and limestone soils in the area of Oliena in the very centre and heart of Sardinia. The village is located in Barbagia, a region often referred to as the “Sardinian Dolomites” because of its white rocks and sheer cliffs that resemble those of northern Italy. Nepente is the term for Oliena’s wine coined by Poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, loosely translating as “that which takes pain away,” something the Greeks prized from the area’s cannonau. This class looked at six definitive examples for one of only four allowable varietal DOCs in Sardinia in the shadow of Monte Corrasi, the “big grey mountain,” with vines between 120 and 700m.

Agricola Salis Cannonau Nepente di Oliena DOC Galu 2023, Sardegna

Light on its feet and in the glass from 14.5 percent alcohol and a cannonau upwardly aromatic and mobile. Pays heed to place, that being Monte Corrasi, the ‘big grey mountain,” in full concentration, if a bit jammy. From granitic soils and their want to lend a bitter black cherry note and a wine not particularly woody while needing another year to settle in. There is density all the way through. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Cantina Biscu Cannonau Nepente di Oliena DOC Ziobì 2022, Sardegna

Hot vintage and it shows in the peppery warmth, especially on the nose. Healthy grapes beget density of aromatic volume and the wine is in balance because of its juicy character. Mineral feels come from the calcareous soil in a well made, albeit big and brawny cannonau. Will be better a few months into next year. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted June 2025

Vignaioli Oliena Cannonau Nepente di Oliena DOC S’Incontru 2022, Sardegna

From big to bigger, dark to darker, dense to denser. Can’t miss the heat of the vintage with a cannonau clocking in at 15.5 percent alcohol, of dark chocolate, a full-bodied style and solid structure. Will drink well with salty protein although oxidation and truffling will happen sooner rather than later. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted June 2025

Ruju Sardu Cannonau Nepente di Oliena DOC Pupusu 2022, Sardegna

Darkest fruit and dustiest character of these six Cannonau Nepente Di Oliena DOC reds. Also a serious threat of tannic freight and so full of the local Balsamico. Plenty of barrel here, but also high quantitative and qualitative acidity to buoy the entirety of the wine. This is serious Sardegna. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted June 2025

Gutthiddai Cannonau Nepente di Oliena Riserva DOC Mannoi 2021, Sardegna

A more rustic example of cannonau for Nepente Di Oliena DOC, of dustiness and unresolved wood. Dark chocolate with sharp and again, rustic acidity. From young vines growing in granite soil, gangly, youthful, awkward and a work in progress. Drink 2026-2027. Tasted June 2025

Gostolai Cannonau Nepente di Oliena Classico DOC 2019, Sardegna

Age has crept in and well upon the character and fabric of this aged cannonou. Seems to prove a theory that a couple of years are needed to settle the youthful heat of Nepente Di Oliena DOC but five or six sees the wines become a bit long in the tooth. This 2019 is now oxidative and fungi soupy. Drink 2025. Tasted June 2025

Michele and Michele, Kairos Vini

More wines tasted at the walk-around at Paolo Cassano

Kairos Vini Francé Bianco Frizzante, Sicily

Astral Ancestrale method sparkling with inzolia and carricante, sweet and intense, also leesy but not in a knowable or expected way. More like the natural yeasts present on orchard fruit, as a bite into musky skins and experienced on the palate. Produce a sparkling wine in weeks and the results can be naturally invigorating. Oh, the lemon…and the water. “And It stoned me to my soul.” Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Kairos Vini Giosè Rosato Frizzante, Sicily

Charmat (Italian) method Rosé sparkling made with perricone and catarratto, freshest of strawberries scented, creamy and texturally soft. Unfiltered with a fresh ricotta salata flavour, vaguely peachy, useful and purposeful. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Kairos Vini Attia Bianco NV, Sicily

Non-vintage white blend of inzolia and chardonnay from the western lands of the Sicilian island purposefully made turbidly cloudy. Phenolic, metallic, of lemon gelée, mineral salts and sea kelp. Bloody natural and interesting, in a different league than but curiously hoding something in common with the Italian MWs Officina del Vento grillo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Kairos Vini Aurora NV, Sicily

Varietal catarratto, 100 percent performing as a vino di macerata, in other words skin-contact for eight days. Aged in steel for six months with constant bâttonage. Comes away perfectly clear and serviceable but also much more. Orange zest, ginger, cardamom, pistachio and galangal for such a creative wine. No natty dread here whatsoever but only precision. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

Kairos Vini Ammia 2021, Sicily

Varietal syrah from the southern part of Sicily, specifically Licata di Campobello and macerated for 10 days. A spontaneous fermentation, aged with bâttonage in stainless steel and cement vats, bottled unfiltered after two years. All the dark red berry fruits, all natural and clearer than many Rosso. Quite proper actually. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Cantine Del Notaio La Stipula Metodo Classico Vino Spumante di Qualità Dosage Zero Brut Millesimato Aglianico 2014, Basilicata

Solo aglianico, 10 years on the lees with warmth and maturity meeting an unlimited amount of complexities that reminds of South African

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Cap Classique. Nervy with persistent energy and vivacities. A candid southern Italian sparkling wine with naturally wavy-curly hair. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted June 2025

Cantina Del Notaio Il Priliminare 2024, Basilicata Bianco IGT

A relatively rare white vinification of aglianico with splashes of malvasia and chardonnay, each important contributors, first for aromatic heightening and second to add some much needed orchard fruit bite. Neither can tame the tannic presence of the aglianico, nor should they try to fight the power. Though it feels like the recipe could use some adjustment, there is something curious happening here. Potential as well. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Cantina Del Notaio Il Rogito 2024, Basilicata Rosato IGT

Candied, semi-cimmerian hue in the style of Tavel, most definitely the furthest thing from Provençal. A pretty Rosato in all respects, from aglianico only, some sweetness, not particularly phenolic and balanced by its overt fruitiness. Like a bowl of fresh cherries. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted June 2025

Davide and Maria, Tenuta Massanova

Tenuta Massanonova Rosato Frizzante Mary’s Flower 2023, Campania

From Campania near Cilento, the work of Davide and Maria, certified organic since 2022. A second vintage effort with 100 percent primitivo Rosato from the young vines, incredibly tart and of full on white cherry and red currant tang. Amazing freshness and quenching ability. Molto dissetante! Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Tenuta Massanova Ecce Vinum Aglianico 2024, Rosato IGP

A polar opposite to the Spumante Rosato, just one hour on the skins for a paler southern French style yet juxtaposed against some kept power and structure of the aglianico. A mix of roses and Sherry qualities from a Rosé meant for simple gastronomy that involves ricotta or mozzarella di buffala. Tastes as much like an orange wine as it does a Rosato, clocking in at 12.5 percent. Curious. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Molettieri Family

Azienda Agricola Antonio Molettieri Coda Di Volpe 2024, Irpinia DOC, Campania

Part of the five hectare, 8,000 total bottle production from Campania, of coda di volpe growing on century vines aged only in steel for six to seven months. Ultra fresh, clean, fine and with that all-important posit tug between salty and sapid. Emits and emotes a true terroirist’s volcanic sensibility. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Azienda Agricola Antonio Molettieri Atipico 2021, Rosso IGT, Campania

The family work of Antonio, Daniele and Sofia for one of the very few merlot raised in the area of Castelfranci within Avellino and the varietal profile here is seriously unique. Luxe and ripe as if Napa Valley were the source – It’s just right there. Crazy! Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Azienda Agricola Antonio Molettieri Badius 2021, Aglianico Irpinia IGT, Campania

Opposite to merlot, from black to red fruit, tannins exuding with confidence and power from the glass. The intertwine between fruit and tannin is a strong bond, a union of opposing forces meant for one another, capable of growing old together. Cherries are obvious, depth impressive and the dark mystery unsolved. Seriously sweet tannins. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted June 2025

Azienda Agricola Antonio Molettieri D’oreste 2020, Taurasi DOCG, Campania

An aglianico of poise and depth with wood aging time, acidity and alcohol that exceed the Irpinia, as do both the substantial fruit and powerful tannins. Freshness from 2020 but also the feeling of experience which says a 2010 would likely not act much different – That’s easily how long a wine like this will take to change, open and express its true sense. The layers are many and intensity is off the charts. Promise is the limit. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted June 2025

The Di Prisco family grows

Di Prisco Coda di Volpe 2024, Irpinia DOC

Produced since 1996, a wine “from the vineyard” oriented south and southwest, done up through whole bunch fermentation. Juicy, clean, orange zested, simple, coolly gelid and with acidity dutifully maintained. Different than the “other” coda di volpe, never a matter of being a blended wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Di Prisco Fiano Di Avellino DOCG 2024

Sees only stainless steel for eight months to come away pure, clear and juicy with fresh squeezed citrus. Bloody quenching with premium spicing and über proper pacing. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Di Prisco Fiano Vigna Rotole 2024, Irpinia DOC

The Avellino may be the DOCG classified Fiano but this single vineyard Irpinia is the more serious wine of the two. Higher extract, finer tannin, elevated fleshy texture and this amazing mix of mellifluous natural sweetness and volcanic minerality. Not to mention length and consequently potential. Speaks to a place, not a cuvée. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted June 2025

Di Prisco Greco Di Tufo DOCG 2022

From two hectares of vines growing at 600 and 630m of elevation split by a road with the lower part chosen for greco. Sees only steel but for 12-18 months with regular bâttonage. Feels and acts like Chablis in greco clothing – tastes that way too. At the very least texturally speaking and then this goes full on lemon-orange, finishing dry and tannic. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted June 2025

Di Prisco Greco Di Tufo DOCG Pietrarosa 2020

The upper cru section of greco above the road at 630m, more calcareous soil to deliver an increase of both extract and specified mineral. Age has brought about more platinum gold in the hue, a gentle oxidation and the sentiment is like older sémilon. More life still to live and perhaps next year will bring about honey and paraffin smoulder. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

Di Prisco Brothers Aglianico ‘Nplugged 2021, Irpinia DOC

From two brothers, Giuseppe and Michele, together moving forward after their father Pasqualino with this experimental aglianico, 75 percent of which is raised in steel. A next generation Avellino red for which the latter stages of fermentation is done without skins, a departure from the norm. Results in an elegant, nurturing and just bloody lovely aglianico, without angst or unrelenting grip. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted June 2025

Cantina La Giara Semidano di Sardegna Superiore DOC 2021

Some might question the indigenousness of semidano while others, including Cantina Giara will say the grape is a rare, native white variety from Sardinia. Here it acts musky aromatic as a relatively soft yet mineral white with a step up from merely moderate alcohol (at 13 percent). Acts with an almost chenin blanc like personality out of Sardinia where just 10 hectares exist for this great curiosity of a white wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted June 2025

Good to go!

godello

Squadra 2025, Radici del Sud

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De Rigueur Sicilia en Primeur 2025

Aug25

Modica

From May 6th through 10th, 2025, the 21st Sicilia en Primeur signalled the annual return of Assovini Sicilia’s proper, correct and yes, also decorous event. Journalists from all over the world arrived by invitation only for a week during which de rigueur was encouraged and for best results, most definitely required. A strict precision needed in adhering to the dictates of weather, cultural fashion, tasting and taking in the final night gala at a luxurious palazzo. The 21st edition’s title “The Culture of Wine in Sicily: A Thousand-year Story that Looks to the Future,” was defined by Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia as “the culture of wine today also translates into a culture of travel.” This is why the abiding delegation of 100 journalists were focused on this essential part of this journey, with their charge to bring the message back home. They came from Italy and many parts of Europe (France, Poland, Sweden, Germany, Norway), also from non-EU countries (Canada, USA, Japan, China, South Korea, Israel, Brazil, and the United Kingdom). Together they engaged in a collective etiquette to celebrate Sicilian wine, food and culture, inclusive of gorging on piping hot finger foods between en primuer tastings at lunch under a hot Modica sun because in Sicily, eating Arancini with your hands is de rigueur.

Neapolis Archaeological Park

As always the Sicilian Ante-Antreprima sees groups of international journalists making pilgrimages to wineries geographically positioned within a particular quadrant on the largest Mediterranean island. In 2025 Godello joined Zedcomm’s Lucia Boarini and JustSicily’s Marcos del Rio, along with journalists Fernanda Roggero (Sole 24 Ore), Christer Byklum (Mywinesandmore), Giuseppe Lauria (Weinwisser), David Ransom (The Connected Table) and Matthias Stelzig (Weinwelt) for an Enotour around the area of Noto. The group took in the ancient urban ruins of the Neapolis Archaeological Park, the seaside village of Marzamemi, Noto city (Including a caffè and dolce at Corrado Assenza’s Caffè Sicilia) and a stay at the beautifully charming and calming Villa Giulia Hotel. Visits were paid at Zisola, La Giasira, Ramaddini, Feudo Maccari and Planeta. When all was said, tasted, travelled, assessed, satiated and done, the group then joined the rest of the journalists fresh off of their own tours for the two-day Sicilia en Primeur at the Castello dei Conti di Modica.

Godello in Noto

Assovini Sicilia was founded in 1998 by Giacomo Rallo, Diego Planeta and Lucio Tasca and today has 101 member companies producing approximately 900 labels. After a day of technical tasting everyone convened at the Teatro Garibaldi in Modica for more de rigueur talks, including a discussion about “the culture of wine understood as informed and conscious drinking,” led by Dr. Sara Farnetti, Ph.D in Pathophysiology of Metabolism and Nutrition. Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi spoke on the “S factor: The uniqueness of the Sicilian wine continent.” Words from Dario Stefàno, President of the Wine and Oil Tourism Centre (Lumsa University) and Antonello Maruotti, Professor of Statistics (Lumsa University) concerned “The south innovating through events, e-commerce and new hospitality models for wine tourism.” Then finally it was Alessio Planeta, President of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation, speaking about “the sustainable future of Sicilian wine.”

With Corrado Assenza – Caffè Sicilia, Noto

The event concluded on the 10th of May, again at the Castello dei Conti, with tastings of wines from the 57 Assovini Sicilia producers. As always Godello wishes to thank the professional and gracious organization of Zedcomm’s Cecilia Zanasi, Delia Demma, Martina Romeo, Lucia Boarini and Michele Marmino; JustSicily’s Giusi Macchiarella, Giuliana Palazzolo, Giuliana Licata di Baucina, Silvia Mantegna, Marcos del Rio and Federica Matranga; Assovini Sicilia’s Liliana Rosano. These are Godello’s 188 tasting notes from Noto visits at Zisola, La Giasira, Ramaddini, Feudo Maccari and Planeta, along with the wines tasted at Castello dei Conti.

Filippo Mazzei at Zisola

Zisola

Filippo Mazzei and family have spent 20 years managing the biodiversity of Zisola, where lemon, pink grapefruit, clementine and almond trees line the vineyard. These are white soils though in Sicily they do not reflect the sun and raise temperatures, as they do in Tuscany. “This kind of soil can keep humidity for a long time,” explains Mazzei. “Even in July and August we don’t have A/C at Zisola.” The first plantings were 20 hectares of nero d’Avola plus one each of syrah and petit verdot. Later on grillo and catarratto, all within six to seven kms of the sea and three to Noto. There are now 25 total hectares of vines and the fermentation cellar was built in 2004.

Zisola’s Parmigiana di Pesce Spada

A visit to Zisola will surely include a walk through one of Sicily’s great vineyard blocks followed by a tasting of highest calibre wines. A word of encouragement will say that three dishes might also show up on the table. Parmigiana di Pesce Spada, Penne con Finnochietto and Gelo di Limone. Should you be so lucky, karma would not be a b@%&h. Karma would be calm, neutral, reasonable and generous.

Zisola Azisa Grillo Sicilia DOC 2024

Zisola is not a place where there is a tradition for white wine and there is just one hectare of grillo planted. The name is an extension from Azisa which can translate as “beautiful.” A small percentage is fermented on skins for 36 hours, “to increase body” says Filippo Mazzei. Balances well with the freshness and waxy-aerosol style for a white that screams citrus with a combination of lemon and especially clementine. Surely owing to the plethora of fruit trees growing about the vines. A rarity for Zisola, not only Sicilia and truly a saisfying wine. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

The most unique of the Zisola wines is this white catarratto made like a red, fermented on skins for three months in “cocciopesto” (as opposed to calling it what we know as amphora), a medium specific to the area. The third vintage for a sku started with the purchase of the vessels in 2021 and each are completely different, a matter of happenstance and not conscious changes or alterations. The 2023 is bloody delicious, suggestively salty, in delivery of an agreed upon “guarantee” of verticality, crazy complexity and something peculiar. Hard to describe and yet also a factor of Alberello (bush) vine training. The grillo is so very clementine but catarratto is more lemon, pink grapefruit and a finishing kiss of almond. Aging should bring about real curious transformations. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A glimpse into how catarratto can begin to age and truthfully (yet also technically) nothing has yet happened. A citrus explosion, lemon first and last with great freshness and intensity. Clean and though it may be a new breed of Noto white wine it already shows an ensconced maturity with a precocious character belying its years. Last tasted May 2025

The second vintage of a 100 percent catarratto from plants that went in back in 2015 on white calcareous soils. Only bush vines and at first made into a blend with grillo. The change was made to do some skin contact and aging in amphora. Really that simple and that is the advantage, no overdoing or distraction in trying to impress. But this does just that, with vibrancy and succulence. Really taut, lemon tight, nearly but not quite piercing. Will change after three years and get honeyed. Reminds of really young Hunter valley sémillon. Top echelon decisions and so bravo Filippo Mazzei and team. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2022

The flagship, calling and business card from 80 percent of Zisiola’s 25 planted hectares, a nero d’avola made in the freshest of Sicilian styles. Clocks in at 12.5 percent, picked early (September 8th) for brightness and well-captured high(ish) acidity. You can feel a bit of wood (from one-third new) and there is no doubt that 20 years into this Mazzei tenure what now matters has been figured out to make nero in the way it should be made. Climbs to the current peak and while better wines are sure to come, this 2022 hits the proverbial and varietal nail on the head. Last tasted May 2025

Zisola is a project for Filippo Mazzei that began with a 700 km drive around Sicily accompanied by Diego and Alessio Planeta. Noto was chosen because of the biodiversity of the flora, to Filippo not unlike Tuscany. He also fell in love with the old Baroque town and could see a comparison between nero d’avola and sangiovese. “The decision was made based on a feeling.” The 2022 is so much fresher than the nero of 15 years ago, not to mention the balance accrued by way of alberello trained vines. Open up the dictionary and here it is. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Sicilia DOC Noto Rosso 2016

Seven years later and keep in mind that Zisola is the nero d’Avola made in the largest quantity and not the Rosso destined for extended aging. But in can and 2016 is a perfect example of potential. The lustre and energy are waning though there is little secondary character, just now softening with amiable pleasantries on offer. Last tasted May 2025

Tasted with Filippo Mazzei in Palermo, Noto Rosso is nero d’avola from the Cantina in Sicily owned and operated by the Castellina in Chianti estate that produces Fonterutoli. A stainless ferment is followed by 50 per cent aging in stainless and 50 in 2nd and 3rd passage oak barrels, It’s a perfectly rich and plummy nero with great red liquorice tang and a distinction to celebrate pure, honest commerce. Very nero, very Noto. Drink 2018-2021. Tasted May 2018

Zisola’s Penne con Finnochietto

Zisola Effe Emme Petit Verdot Sicilia DOC 2021

Effe Emme is varietal petit verdot from just one hectare planted, the album rock radio red of Zisola and monogram for Filippo Mazzei. He might prefer to see this PV stitched as if by tailored cloth but the spicy aromas, exotic bouquet and volatility suggested frankly indicate something more progressively oriented. The wood is generously, suggestively and importunely employed to exaggerate notes for extended play. Requires some further aging to settle the barrel and finish the score. Last tasted May 2025

Varietal petit verdot planted in 2004, only 1.5 hectares, just about at the very beginning of Zisola. Incredibly chalky to say that it really speaks for the calcaire but time has come to effect changed so that the vines have come into balance. As petit verdot Effe Emme is not as dark and concentrated as it once was. Really showing its colours, what it is, a child of limestone soils. “Effe Emme,” F.M., long-play radio, well-spoken, one who tells things as they are, Filippo Mazzei. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Zisola Effe Emme Petit Verdot Sicilia DOC 2014

Second look ten-plus years forward for petit verdot that would have come off of not yet 10 year-old vines at Zisola. Showing most of its age, a smoky varietal red with truffle and a held reserve of concentration and persistent local Balsamico. Violet aromas as well, they are the beauty of perfume while the wine drifts into liquid chalkiness. On the decline but interest still holds and will do so for another 12-18 months. Last tasted May 2025

A 100 per cent petit verdot, 4,000 bottles made, big structure and at 15 per cent a massive wine. Needed to be held back an extra year and still needs two more years in bottle to soften, release and re-integrate. Big boned, spicy, wood massive and intense. Hematic with welling black fruit. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted May 2018

Zisola Doppiozeta Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2021

Doppiozeta is at least twice as concentrated and focused as compared to the nero d’Avola “classico,” Cru in origin on the more calcareous soils of the estate, picked just two days after the bulk of the nero and yet acidity is not insignificantly higher. Owing to the limestone but also 50m higher in elevation which surely brings just that extra amount of wind. The style of Doppiozeta is ever evolving and this 2021 marks a height of freshness and drinkability, but with a seriousness and focus to share space with top quality nerello mascalese, sangiovese and nebbiolo. Would give the ’21 another year to realize its true potential. Last tasted May 2025

Yes another fine Doppiozeta nero d’avola from the Mazzei family and their Sicilian estate. Crispy exterior, chewy interior, spice and herbs as accents, salt and pepper seasoning, chalky tannic, reasoned and knowably fine. Consistently well raised, made and delivered, signed and sealed as a really good wine. The freshness is always there and the acidity so ideally suited to grape and style. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Zisola Doppiozeta Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2017

Many hot vintages have powered through Italy as of late, including 2017 and yet Sicily was not that way, not in Noto, not anywhere. And so there is a fine and persistent freshness to Doppiozeta for ’17. A seductive sweetness from a time when the nero d’Avola was made in a more extracted, concentrated and barrel-aged way. Nevertheless in 2025 the wine is showing with distinction. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP

Just one hectare of syrah as part of the original plantings at Zisola for one of three ultra distinct varietal reds. The most hematic meets sanguine is in a way the closest cousin to all that famous Mazzei sangiovese made way up yonder in Tuscany. In other words the syrah here seems to take on a mineral-elemental feel as notable as any red wine in Sicily. Deeply serious, concentrated and in 2021 also structured, namely because of the season. Also uniquely southeastern Sicilian and yes a few years having passed in bottle has resulted in some movement, though barrel and secondary notes are both just barely detectable. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira

La Giasira is Piedmontese Giovanni Boroli and his wife Veneta Isabella dating back to to 2004. The estate is 130 hectares with 13.5 under vines, of grillo, moscato, catarratto, nero d’Avola and nerello mascalese. They produce 60,000-70,000 bottles annually from vines grwoing in 10-30 cm of soil atop pure limestone bedrock. Tilling happens maybe once a year on this site at 250m above the Telaro Valley (within the Noto Valley), 20 km to both Noto and Modica, equidistant between the Ionian Sea and Sicilian Channel.

La Giasira Bianco 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

A blend of chardonnay, moscato bianco and catarratto, picked earlier than just about ever, begun in the last week of July. From serious calcareous soils for just 5,000 bottles of Noto area clarity fermented and aged in just Inox tank. Aromatic, all in citrus and freshness captured despite or maybe thanks to the early pick. Bit of almond both floral and raw, the scents of roses and blossoms from clean start to salty finish. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Grillo Sicilia DOC 2023

The grillo stands apart and alone in style when tasted side by each with the catarratto and bianco blend. Here the focus is all fruit, lemon and stone fruit, ripe and fleshy, juices running for a very full and refreshing expression. A capture of southeastern Sicilian sunshine, many heat days accumulating in this juicy grillo. Pour it cold and drink it long. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Keration 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Varietal catarratto made with specifically catarratto lucido, just 8.000 bottles (of 60,000-ish total) from the thin soils above limestone bedrock at Giasara. Just stainless steel for six months and three in bottle ahead of release. Noticeably different to the Bianco blend, a decrease in floral citrus and jasmine, an increase in fruit (including the smell of spun sugar) and accompanying viscosity. Immediate level of gratification from a wine with luxe mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Keration 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Tasted side by side with the 2023 and the consistency is more than obvious, namely by mouthfeel and viscous feel. A citrus yet reminding of bergamot in curd or granita form. Really persistent white, lingering for a minute with a moment of almond at the finish. More sapid than salty, even more so than the still truly fresh 2023. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Rosato 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

Made with 100 percent nerello mascalese from the early pick of vines planted back in 2006. If it smells and tastes like mascalese than it must be mascalese, of roses and tart red berries, here salted and finishing at rhubarb. Rosé that quenches by doing what it should for a simple and specific purpose. Ends on a sapid botanical note. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Unbelievable Risotto con Pesce at La Giasira

La Giasira Morhum 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Morhum is 100 percent nerello msacalese off of hybrid Cordone Speronato/Guyot trellised vines planted in 2006, aged nine months in (25 hL) botte grande. Several intensities noted, first floral and then an implosive tart palate style with more than impressive controlling acidity. Surely picked early extending forth to fineness and a finesse wound up in the tension. Tannins are fine and also wound tight for a light yet currently aggressive nerello mascalese. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021

One of ten small production skus, here at 6,000 bottles of nero d’Avola raised on Cordone Speronato trellising and the serious calcareous geology at Giasira. Spends 12 months in botte grande, followed by six months in bottle ahead of release. Current vintage and so six months is more like 30 to mature a tannic nero d’avola ready and drinking in balance, just as its 13.5 percent alcohol frame would want. Forget the big, wooded and thick nero you may know and see the nebbiolo meets pinot noir forest for the Noto nero trees. The conceptual origin is kind of obvious, that being Piemonte so that here you might almost believe this to be a cool climate red. For Giasira the pick is later than most of the rest of the farm, in the last 10 days of September. There is some verdancy but it works and in all the right ways, finishing with good and proper tension. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC 2018

More than a notable amount of persistent freshness yet now a whole lot of exotic spice going on. Getting cardamom and cinnamon (but no clove) from a nero d’avola now at the epitome of “morbido,” in this case smooth as opposed to soft. The nose shows development if not age in terms of oxidation or secondary character. More maturity on the palate with dried bokser pod and carob. In other words classic for nero d’Avola from a warm climate made just six years ago with more wood and concentration, though nothing like some other very wooded peer examples. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira SIC! Spumante Metodo Classico Brut Rosato, Terre Siciliane IGT

Just nerello mascalese aged 24 months and finished below Brut with what feels like just a few grams of residual sugar. Quenching and not so serious while in delivery of great satisfaction. The clarity is palpable for such a clean sparkling wine. Taste this nerello bubble with a risotto blessed with fresh mussels and capers for a true gustatory experience. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

La Giasira Passito di Noto Sicilia DOC 2022

A passito from grillo not produced in every vintage, citrus zesty and aerosol though teasingly dry on the nose before unveiling its sweetness and tang on the palate. Lemon gelée with the bite of granita and truth be told the limestone of Giasira’s soils surely effect the dessert wine as much as the dry whites and reds. Nice botanical edgy finish too. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Sicilia en Primeur Enotour 11 – Noto

Ramaddini Perla Marina Vino Spumante Brut, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT

Charmat method sparkling wine made with the local moscato di noto, soup sugary, neutral and vague selvatica meets macchia aromas. Sweet but in a typical Brut way and number with more than vague bitters at the finish. Tasted May 2025

Ramaddini Grillo Nassa Sicilia DOC 2024

Nassa, a fishing reference for the catching of fish (owing to the nearby seaside), a 100 percent grillo grown in the Rammadini Contrada up in the hills four kilometres away from the cantina and five from the sea at Marzamemi. Lemon through and through, pith and seeds included for a bitter tonic of grillo, yellow and also green. High vigour and yields make for an insipid, vapid and diluted white wine. Tasted May 2025

Ramaddini QuattroVenti 2024, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT

A blend of chardonnay and catarratto aged in wood and the notes waft out immediately, like smoke from a chimney. The aromas are problematic, as a baked potato which indicates the challenge of diethyl acetate. The palate does not improve much and the vanilla overpowers the fruit. Tasted May 2025

Ramaddini Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Noto Nere 2022

A varietal nero d’Avola aged in 70 percent steel and (30) barriques as smoky and vanilla-toasty as the whites. Surely some residual sugar fills in the holes and mellows the greenness in the wine. Waxy, sappy and syrupy. Tasted May 2025

Team JustSicily

Ramaddini Syrah Sicilia DOC Noto Nere 2022

Purely syrah as smoky and toasted as the nero d’Avola to a point where distinguishing one from the other is like trying to identify the difference between identical twins Richard and Geoff Saunders back in high school. I wonder if the syrah can write nero d’avola’s Math exam and nero can go sub in for a date with syrah’s girlfriend? But seriously there is nothing to distinguish this as Sicilian syrah, nor is their any charm, or joy to be found. Tasted May 2025

Ramaddini Patrono Nero d’Avola Riserva Sicilia DOC 2021

Longer wood aging and the signature varietal nero d’avola that takes Rammadini’s work to the next level. Not necessarily a wine that speaks to more attentive farming but instead to more attention in the cellar. The philosophy concentrates on how the wines are made and aged with the most focus on Patrono and it shows. The notes of vanilla, lavender, red berry and white chocolate shake exert themselves with impunity. You can age this for a few years and see it mellow into a soft, creamy, thickened and emulsified red. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted May 2025

Ramaddini Al Hamen Passito di Noto Sicilia DOC

Strange mix of marmalade and diesel in a moscato passito as botanical as it is gaseous. If apricot was a metal and orange slices were urinal pucks. Flawed.Can’t fathom what happened here. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari

The Sicilian exploration of Tuscany’s Moretti family of Tenuta Sette Ponti. As with several other Noto area estates, Maccari was set up 25 years ago on 200 hectares with 65 planted to vines, most trained to Alberello (medio). Much like the others the location is heavily influenced by limestone soils set halfway between the Ionian and Mediterranean seas. There are predominantly nero d’Avola and grillo, but also seven hectares of syrah. The company also farms 11 hectares on L’Etna (called Etnae), namely in the Contrada Santo Spirito.

Feudo Maccari Anima Lucente Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2024

Anima Lucente is the only Maccari Etna Bianco, made with 85 percent carricante and (15) minella grown in a 700m, 60-plus year-old “garden vineyard,” on Passopisciaro bush vines. Natural ferment, half in steel and half in ”blanched” second passage French wood. Just bottled a few weeks ago and already the wood is easily integrated, subtly specialized without so much as a toasty, vanillin or buttery trace. Racy Etna Bianco from head to tail, judged, interpreted and translated as a garden blend should. Quite edenic for the ilk and of dreams realized. Not the most complex, nor does it need to be but it’s so hard not to be seduced through to the mineral-metal finish. 10,000 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Anima Vulcano Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

Red counterpart to the white Anima Lucente, moving from luminescent to charcoal volcanic in Rosso that spends only a reasonable and amply fortifying eight months time in barrel. Perfectly professional, seasoned, stylized and straight up the middle road taken for the DOC and more importantly but also specifically the contrada of Santo Spirito. Speaks in the clearest double “S” vernacular, explains and delivers just what is expected and frankly wanted from a contrada-specified Etna Rosso. Acids are in synch with the rusty grit split between fresh and dried elements. Stamp of guarantee. 3,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Animardente Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

Slightly higher elevation also from the Passopisciaro contrada of Santo Spirito, here at 750m and same vine age in and around 60 years. This time the qualifying suffix “ardente” refers to passion or a burning for something, that surely being the raising of impressive Rosso from out of the Etna lava stone flows. The reference also elicits the heat and colour of the magma fused with the current orange-hued basalt. A more serious Etna Rosso of depth and tannic intensity, doubly structured and needing time. The botanical feels mixed with structural elements more than grip the palate, hold on tight and show no immediate sign of letting go. Give this two more years. 3,000 bottles. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Animantica Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

From the owners of Tuscany’s Tenuta Sette Ponti. Animantica, a compounded abbreviation of anima and mantica, i.e. “soul and divination.” A spiritual combination for the smallest of Etna Rosso productions from Contrada Santo Spirito. Exhibits the freshness and accessibility of Anima Vulcano juxtaposed against the tannic frame and freight of Animardente but the expression is subtle, restrained and without the ardent flaunt of necessity. The vines here are 100-plus years pre-phylloxera grown in the “garden vineyard,” inclusive of some (white) minella. Rosso as graceful as any on the Etna and therefore fully qualifying as mountain wine. The tannins are suave and fluid to see a “divinazione” of 10 years or more. Just 800 bottles. Drink 2027-2036. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Grillo Sicilia DOC Olli 2024

Olli, part of grillo read backwards and a local name for the grape. A reminder how it arrived as a cross between catarratto and zibibbo, developed by Baron Antonio Mendola of Favara. Clean, fresh, ripe and accessible to all, for all the correct reasons and any time at all. Yellow fruit and flowers, some sapidity and the easiest drinking white anywhere from Sicily. Vines averaging 20 years bring the knowhow and concentration. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Family and Friends 2023, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGP

The wine once made for, you guessed it, family and friends that first became a commercial label with the 2012 vintage. Vineyard is now more than 20 years old with grillo vines growing in sand and limestone. The label advocates “only the best grapes” and the amenability meets style of this varietal wine suggests that to be the honest truth. A lemon intensity in concentration and bursting fleshy segments are juicing through the entirety of the wine. Again a sapid (as opposed to salty) element, not quite botany or “macchia” but savoury nonetheless. Hides the 14.5 percent alcohol frame with ease. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Vigna Firraru Family and Friends 2023, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGP

The most important grillo comes from the black-soiled clay vineyard above the cantina, a.k.a. Fabbro, from Sicilian dialect the name Firraru describes the colour of that terroir. Alberello vines are 20 years of age (as with all the grillo plantings) and now having come into their zone. A ferric element emerges as per the soil to separate this grillo from the other Family and Friends varietal white. Even more sapid, metallic surely and length increases. The French wood, richness and generous alcohol all impress while doing their part in well rehearsed integration. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Rosé di Neré Sicilia DOC 2024

More than obviously stuck to Provençal style guns with a Rosato made with nero d’Avola softly hued, pale and simple. Just two hours of skin contact plus five months of aging in steel. A lees effect, however soft and in restraint though consistently designed and presented with the Feudo Maccari sapidity up front. Showing some true to from nero notes, of ripe berries and sweet herbal savour. Well made and reachable for all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Sicilia DOC Neré 2022

A mix of nero d’avola vines young and old, of 10 and over 30 for the signature varietal business card of a red wine. Dusty and notable Balsamico with a local nickname for the most important variety, not only for Noto but all of Sicily. Neré is more restrained and quaffable than ever before, with crusted, skin musky fruit and high acidity. A wine to chill and spill without thinking too much on anything at all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Sicilia DOC Saia 2022

Saia comes from Arabic, a word making reference to centuries old rainwater collecting irrigation canals and the first label produced by Feudo Maccari in 2002. These are the oldest estate bush vines, now more than 30 years of age with the eyes, canes and fruit of experience. More obvious depth and layers to nero d’Avola as Saia, a treasure trove and trough filled with fruit and accompaniments in complexity. A nero adorned but also soft with some pruning of the fruit while still amply structured. Not grippy or with tension per se but in control and able to age. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Sultana 2022

A single vineyard nero d’avola from white limestone soils of 20-plus years that sees 10 months in tonneaux, coming out in the 15 percent alcohol range. Just one hectare like Guarnaschelli and aromatically speaking the most mineral-elemental and therefore salty nero d’avola for Feudo Maccari. Genuine depth and ideal push-pull posit tug between fresh and dried elements with a chalky understreak that speaks to the brown skeletal soil and its limestone content. A wine made in the vineyard, as they say, exaggerating and celebrating the local Balsamico and singular savoury improvisations. “Autentico.” Just 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Guarnaschelli 2022

A single vineyard nero from black volcanic soils of some 60 years that sees 10 months in tonneaux, coming out in the 15 percent alcohol range. Just one hectare like Sultana and the terroir directs the result. Greater intensity and grip but also a converse style due to the ulterior elements that come from basalt as opposed to limestone. There is a richness to the mix of dried and fresh fruit, Balsamico and macchia, a layering that continually delivers more and more. The clarity and finesse from Guarnaschelli do well to balance and smoothen both the new wood and elevated level of alcohol. Just 1,000 bottles made. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Maccari Syrah Sicilia DOC Mahâris 2022

From seven hectares of syrah, the second label produced at Feudo Maccari, first vintage 2005. The name refers to Arab watch towers along the sea coast and it is the wine “that symbolizes the meeting of different styles and cultures.” In other words syrah brought to Sicily and how it has prospered, with FM being one of the pioneers in terms of scale and time having worked with the French variety. Then again the legend of Marcus Aurelius, Syracusa and the variety have by now become one to make this one of the island’s own. The 2022 is full and wooded, seasoned to the hilt and within good reason because this is what the grape wants from Noto. Fruit and structure are tied by sweet acidity as much as they are by tannic freight. Full wine and one to impress. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025

With Santi and Alessio Planeta in Noto

Planeta

Diego Planeta. Pioneer, visionary and a man who considered the entire island an agricultural playground where anything was possible. The Planeta family has Spanish origins and roots dating back five hundred years. Diego Planeta was the former president of the Settesoli Cooperative and founder of Planeta winery. His passing in 2020 left an irreplaceable hole but 15 cousins, including Alessio, Francesca and Santi Planeta are the beneficiaries of their uncle’s plans and legacy. Five family members run the day-to day operation and more than 200 vinicultural, viticultural, administrative and marketing artisans share in the collective vision. Today they work, farm sustainably and reap the benefits of five distinct estates but more than that they bring the fruits of these locations to the world. No other producer in Sicilia does this, not with the scope and breadth they do.

Noto is the birthplace of nero d’Avola, graced with calcareous soils like Jerez and Champagne, not really comparable to anywhere else. Noto is close to Vittoria in how the wines come to be but it’s a mobile texture, silken and with velvety tannins. The soft hills of Buonivini are blessed by soft breezes arising from the meeting of two seas, ideal for nero d’Avola and moscato, but also almonds, carobs and olives, symbolic plants of the Mediterranean location. The three vineyards are agliastro, buonvini and zuppardo on 45 hectares, acquired piece by piece, today producing the DOC wines Santa Cecilia, Moscato di Noto and Passito di Noto.

Country lunch at Planeta, Noto

Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2024

Always the (totally) dry moscato from Noto, white grape that has been a focus for Planeta not quite but almost since the beginning. From the Bounivini – Agliastro vineyards built of lime, soy marl and whitest of white chalk. A low production vintage because of drought and small berries though the aromatic variety translates as high and expressive as ever. Freshness and botanicals meet at the middle where citrus predominates. No questioning the quality and intensity for what must be viewed as a singular style and effect of white wine. Never searing and of a sapid notion that seems too bely the calcari, but that is exactly why this moscato works as a dry white wine. If you like top echelon dry palomino then this will induce interest along a similar line. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2020

A fine Sicilian vintage with ideal climatic conditions and looking back four years you get some evolution in the way you might think about what happens with dry sémillon or riesling. Now an arriving mix of honey and petrol to compliment the concentrating mandarin and lime blossom notes. In a way it feels like a sweetness is developing but that is a faux reality because there is literally no sugar in this moscato. Testing 2020 in 2025 seems just about right – another year and things will really go secondary. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

In the Noto cellar with Alessio Planeta

Planeta Noto DOC Allemanda 2014

More than 10 years have passed and forget secondary because tertiary has come to town. Fully developed maturity between the honey and petrol, sapidity strong and metal savoury, everything having coalesced into a finished and now finishing wine. This is where moscato will go, here with distinction because of how clean and competent it bagged character all those years ago. Drink 2025. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Nero d’Avola Noto DOC Controdanza 2021

The first vintage of this specialized dance in Noto was 2016 and here five years later we begin to see the balance and personality really showing forth. Also from where and how the heavy presence of white limestone grabs ahold of nero d’Avola’s soul and hauls it straight down to the ground. All the carob and some liquorice define the flavours of Controdanza for a full and satisfying experience, replete with fine acidity and elastic intensity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2022

A preview yet to be released but a finished wine bottled a year ago. The first vintage (as a reminder) was 1997 and 50 percent is aged (12 months) in new wood, the rest of the nero d’Avola in used barrel. Two parcels of the Zuppardo and Agliastro they are, both contributing to the mille-feuille layers that deliver wave after wave of varietal flavour, character and soul. They are the most importantly identified white (calcareous) soils chosen for this flagship varietal red in the Planeta world. Santa Cecilia owns a chalkiness in its tannic profile that feels singular, non-inimitable and willing to take 10-15 years to fully transform. The 2022 is a prime example of a latest vintage produced serving as its best. Drink 2027-2035. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2021

Not much movement as of yet, save for a moment of carob, naturally honeyed with caramel and earthiness. Speaks to ripeness as much as maturity. The acids from 2021 are at the fore right now, loudest of clamour and opening the window for clarity and the complex fruit component coming into focus. Yes there is a minor feeling off secondary character but just in infancy to suggest three more years in this stage. Last tasted May 2025

Such a fine iteration of nero d’avola as Santa Cecilia, a 2021 more mature and open than before but is that not what it should be? Fruit so naturally curated, sweet and generous to speak of a great potential and long future. Fine acidity as well while also necessary and yet as the wine sits on the palate those credible and knowable quality of nero tannins remind of Cecilia’s past. Anyway this is both handsome and beautiful, vulnerable and strong. Fluid and confident, loving and powerful, with a spoonful of Noto nourishment to last a very good long time. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2011

Now well into secondary with plenty of tertiary having come to take over the personality of Santa Cecilia 2011. Still there is some freshness of fruit and especially how acidity affects the development of original elements transforming into later life pleasure. Now showing as a perfectly gorgeous 13-14 year-old nero d’Avola from a second stage understanding within the overall Planeta idiom. Last tasted May 2025

Santa Cecilia from 2011 is a special nero d’avola, balanced in silent but sweetly deadly acquiescence of Noto’s white chalky soils. Her tannins are abundant and smooth, running in one direction and so it’s a wonder how un-evolved and yet so involved this nero d’avola is equipped to believe about and with great kindred spirit with itself. That it presents this youthful and yet to advance is a thing magical and sincere. Inner strength is one thing but outward beauty is the real deal. Or is it the other way around? Either way they combine for one of Cecilia’s greatest acuity and remainder of structure. Drink 2018-2026. Tasted May 2018 and April 2022

Tasting at Planeta, Noto

Planeta Frappato Vittoria DOC 2024

Great freshness and red berry fruit define frappato for Vittoria, “a grape that is magic and if you plant it outside of Vittoria it is not so interesting,” explains Alessio Planeta. “In my opinion.” The aromas and flavours of the grape are expertly preserved, here bursting and the herbal or savoury aspect is so much sweeter from Vittoria, noting like basil or chervil. What matters is the soil’s origin, that being marine and when the grape is frappato the handling simplifies so that the freshness, fleshiness and simple beauty is exulted. This may be simple but it’s also brilliant. Low alcohol (12.5 percent) and above average pH matched by just below tart acidity to result in fragrance and balance. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Frappato Vittoria DOC 2023

The first vintage of Planeta’s Cerasuolo Di Vittoria was 2001 from the area of Acate and vineyards of Dorilli and Mogli. Acidity just a bit higher than varietal frappato and pH conversely lesser. The effect of nero d’avola leads to this wine’s balance between fresh fruit and linear structure. Quantity was down 20-ish percent in 2023 and concentration feels elevated, corresponding to healthier levels of quality and tannic structure. Not always a 60-40 nero d’avola to frappato but that does seem to be the comfort zone, although Alessio Planeta is not adverse to a much higher number for the nero. I mean this is just perfectly balanced, juicier than ever and subtly structured for a five-plus year run. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG Dorilli 2022

Dorilli is the single-vineyard nero d’Avola residing at the pinnacle of Cerasuolo for Planeta. Brighter and upwardly airy to ethereal than ever before, here with a 10 percent increase of the nero d’Avola from the classico Cerasuolo and yet alcohol, acidity and pH are almost always aligned within a tightly defined spectrum. This regardless of how much of each grape are employed which tells us that soils and place, clay-limestone soil and Vittoria are the greatest determining factors for results. That being lithe, fresh and frankly also exciting. Cru Beaujolais lovers must not turn away from Cerasuolo, not when it is made in this style. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Passito di Noto DOC 2024

From Noto’s Buonavini winery/vineyard and also that of Agliastro and their whitest of white limestone terroir. Lemon and mandarin incarnate in any way your imagination can conjure, from curd through gelée to granita. Pure and focused, clean and all about the fruit. The best thing you could do is put a glass of this Passito next to a plate of Sicily’s finest master pastries made by Corrado Assenza at Café Sicilia. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Nocera Sicilia DOC 2023

A world unto itself with few peers making the yeoman work of nocera production and yet this grape holds plenty of potential. It may be ancient and perceived as rustic but in the hands of Planeta it’s tamed and gifted as something easy, satisfying and quite complex. You can drink this with ease and without tension, its fruit more musky and leathery than say frappato but with nary a meant of drying, tough chew or earthiness. This 2024 is youthful and got right for a varietal teaching moment that also delivers a true sense of pleasure matched by pace. Last tasted May 2025

One of the very few pleasantly made varietal nocera on the island and the only one presented here at the ’24 Anteprima. Surely found to exist along similar lines to nero d’Avola, with a touch more rusticity, also chewy liquorice and leathery fruit character. The 2023 is a good if not high acid nor rather tannic vintage, assembled and delivered for earlier drinking than some. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

All the wines of Sicilia en Primeur

Sparkling

Alessandro di Camporeale Método Classico 2020

Solo catarratto, vibrant, exciting, exploding, 36 months on the lees. Crazy flavours on your palate. Ginger and smoulder. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Alessandro di Camporeale Método Classico 2017

This is the second vintage and for a catarratto that spent 72 months on the lees it’s actually mind-blowing. The wine is crisp, crunchy, salty, expansive, vertical and frankly exceptional. Next up 96 months? Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Cantine Fina Pas Dosé 2019

A proper smoulder leads off for this 70 percent chardonnay and (30) pinot noir blend finished clean and unadulterated. No dosage? No problem because of the toasty, umami-savoury, macchia-laden, of plants identified and also those not. Palate exhibits some peanut shell which speaks to a momentary temperature drag in the processing but with all the exotics running amok there is terrific interest nonetheless. Last tasted May 2025

A mix of chardonnay and pinot noir, 70 and 30. Toasty style, sharp and focused, 36 months on the lees to give it aromatic volume from the get go. Certainly not an oxidative style, far from it and the middle ground for Bruno Fina’s sparkling program that began with 24 months and has progressed to 60 on yeast time. More volume on the palate and even fleshiness than expected to suggest that Fina is a natural at making sparkling wines. No wood – only stainless steel. Experimentation has come thus far and perhaps wood aging is coming in the future. Wishing for more length but the linger is full and positive. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

With the Sommeliers of AIS Sicilia

Fazio Brut Blanc de Blancs Erice DOC

Concentrated and pulpy fruit forward fizz from chardonnay picked at higher ripeness than most. Feels like Cuvé Close style, big fruit and carbonation doing their best to get together. Simple and juicy-frothy with neither issue nor complexity. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Dsisa Rene’ Sicilia DOC 2017

Über reductive and reactive chardonnay sparkling not perfectly clean. Not quite bitterness in the flavours but more like toasted almond skin. Medium toast and mid-level persistence. No excitement or positive linger neither. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Principe di Butera Metodo Classico Nero d’Avola Pas Dosé 2019

A classic method sparkling wine 36 months on the lees, charged and excited, rich and buttressed for full mouthfeel with bubbles that elevate the game. Harvested in the second part of August also off of plants that were first planted 27 years ago. The higher parts richer in limestone are used for the Pas Dosé and those in the valley clays more for Brut. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Principe di Butera Metodo Classico Nero d’Avola Rosato Extra Brut 2019

A 24 months on lees after a couple of hours on the skins for Extra Brut with some sugar but nothing gratuitous and vines growing in the lower parts where limestone gives way to clay. Smooth, really with uplifting acidity and rusty red fruit character. Professionalism incarnate and ideal stylish personality for Sicilian sparkling wine. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted May 2025

Not labeled as such and this is the first vintage release but the vintage is in fact 2019. Twenty four months on the lees and this being the beginning to introduce the wine but subsequent vintages that will likely age longer. Extra Brut so right around 6-7 g/L with explosive acidity so the balance is spot on. Orange and lemon, no pith and less bitters to speak of. Really clean and good length. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Ferrata Etna DOC Spumante 2021

Fine fizz work with the local nerello mascalese stripped of skin muskiness and replaced with a volcanic savour so distinctly if discreetly basaltic in nature. What should sparkling wine from L’Etna do? This actually, with linger and persistence. Grows on the palate and finishes with edible fungi, umami in nature, all in all a positive result for those who are carriers of that “other” positive sensory gene. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut DOP “Sessantasei” Método Classico 2018

Quiet, admittedly demure entry, of nerello mascalese and the trenchant intention to develop all three essential tenets of sparkling wine. Aromas, textures and flavours are all slowly and incrementally enhanced by serving a long time period upon the lees. In the vicinity of six years for this bubble and dio mio, man how things have come to a combination of curiosity and softness. Spicing yes, but texture is key, mouth-filling, reaching all corners and edges through a lengthy journey resulting in rolling waves, oscillations and blanketing couverture. Substantial sparkling with grace. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Terrazze Dell’Etna Blanc Brut 2020

Reductive and flinty bubble unique to Etna with a can’t miss the chardonnay character. A sharp and crunchy bite into a just picked yellow apple. Balanced and softening on the palate for one of the most tenable blanc sparkling wines ever to try from a mountain producer. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Rosato

Benanti Etna Rosato DOC 2024

High aromatic substance, tree fruit blossoms, fruit forward with concentration. Stone fruit, nerello mascalese skin muskiness, though never pungent. Caught at reputable ripeness for Rosato, its verdancy a matter of natural extension, acidity never sharp, nor failing. Palate luxe and soft though the savour persists and it all falls into place for the category. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Cantine Fina Rosato Hanami 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

Rosé of merlot and syrah, lithe and salty, a vague earthy funk that comes from a mix of soil and how these grapes interact as such. First vintage was 2019 and the path is getting clearer. The tang is extremely high which makes for a slightly vivid example out of this vintage. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2024

As straightforward, generous and fruit-centric as Etna Rosato can be, open for all blush needs. Summer is a glass as they say and no, Etna Rosé was not like this just 10, or perhaps even five years ago. Yet here they are and come to the world with all the fulfillments the genre could offer. Plenty good and good for plenty of reasons. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Montoni Rosé di Adele Nerello Mascalese 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

Intense nerello mascalese aromatics, of floral red berry bloom perfume and into savoury flavours, of all that lives and breathes in a natural Sicilian world. Perhaps a smaller crop and size of berry is the reason for these results but regardless the concentration alters the ’24 course of a Montoni Rosato. Would love to sip this alongside any of the many eggplant preparations by Montoni’s Melissa Muller. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato DOC 2024

Finely composed and balanced Rosato from Giuseppe Russo, ideally mixing ripe nerello mascalese with sweetly captured acidity. You can sip his 2024 and feel the composure straight away, plus enough generosity and grace befitting of all the wines in the strongest of portfolios. Here Rosé is a gift because the fruit is precious in that it should rightly have become Rosso. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Rosé Sicilia DOC 2024

A mix of nero d’Avola with syrah and sauvignon blanc for more spark and sharpness which Rosato by Planeta most definitely has. Crisp bites, herbal, some macchia and provider of thirst quenching abilities. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Cecilia Carbone – Serra Ferdinandea

Serra Fernandinea Rosato Sicilia DOC 2024

It rained on the 9th of May and then not again until the 19th of August. Picked between the 11th and 14th of August (with Ferragosto in between) and with this in glass most will have no idea it’s even Rosé. Vin gris is the look but not the intention because when you press nero d’Avola it’s a matter of minutes between this and colour. Remember the owners are Provençal and in southern Sicily the same effect is desired. That would be lithe, salty, fresh and with unlimited spirit. The spirit and nature of the place. As this does and is just that. First scent speaks to Rosato of a distinct and singular nature, like a marine breeze blowing in and through the macchia-mediated and reconciled fruit of the vine. Of nero d’avola used for all essential Rosé purposes under the southwestern Sicilian sun. Not entirely sure if the yields were lower in 2024 (they likely were) but the high levels of concentration and sneaky controlled energy put this in a new echelon for a Serra Ferdinandea Rosé. Would make for both a curiosity and a scientific test to age this two years and see what new impact comes about. Only the independent variable of time changes and the conclusion should rightly seek and mount higher ground. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted twice, May 2025

Tenute Navarra Rosemosse 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

Full outward wave of red berry fruit, a capture of frappato in fizz, its mousse creamy and soft. Strawberries in cream, a shortcake because of some faux autolysis and pretty much just really simple. Holds a place for reasons like Valentine hearts and others that represent an amenability to all. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Terra Costantino Etna Rosato DOC deAetna 2024

Fine mix of fruity and also savoury elements, all understated and trickling forward, low and slow. If a fruit were needed to be invoked it would be white cherries, conjured from a quick soak and maceration before stripping away nerello mascalese skins while capturing both their perfumes and a modicum of their structure. For Etna this is the Provençal style albeit with volcanic properties instilled and made whole by natural processes. Come for the fruit, stay for the minerals. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Rosso

Arianna Occhipinti BB Frappato Vino di Contrada 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

BB, a.k.a Bomboliere feels like the OG for a contrada-designate frappato in the Vittoria occupied Occhipinti world, a varietal expression from the home front with more experience and acumen to treat all things equal, they being available and worthy of leaning against and leading towards ultimate balance. As here from a fine and rocking 2022, crunchy exterior and chewy interior, a Balsamico crust and mix of fruits captured within. Though the Villages frappato is the most accessible it is this BB that ranks as the most well-rounded and if there is any austerity it won’t cause any psychosocial pain. Yet BB is tannic enough to age, stirs up emotion and is truly representative as a best of all worlds wine, more so than either the FL or PT. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025

Arianna Occhipinti FL Vino di Contrada Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not all of Arianna Occhipinti’s three contrada originating frappato are created equal and FL (Fossa di Lupo) is the one with most up front and forward extending fruit. The fruit comes from just 15 year-old alberello frappato out of Arianna’s original six hectare vineyard. This from the outstretched arm of generosity, more like the Villages label than either the BB or the PT. More obvious as frappato and still there is some structure, high acid pulse, saltiness and earthy to funky beats. Likely owing to this soils of brown sand over limestone rock. Then again FL is cleaner and more understandable with varietal clarity, that which speaks to terroir, obviously and without equivocation. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025

Arianna Occhipinti PT Vino di Contrada Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

One of three contrada frappato for Occhipinti and immediately obvious how different (at least this PT, or Pettineo) is from the Villages label. Structured with impunity and its immunity keeps maturity at bay. Hard to believe how tight an expression this is when you consider the grape, but this contrada means serious terroir business. Of crucial significance is the fact that the less than one hectare parcel is home to the oldest (60-plus years) frappato vines in all of Vittoria. The vines grown on fine orange sand over tufa (a porous limestone) and the grapes are harvested ahead of both BB (Bombolieri) and FL (Fossa di Lupo). There is a volatility in PT that for some will be challenging to understand, though should patience be exercised than all will eventually be resolved and subsequently revealed. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

Arianna Occhipinti Frappato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Frappato the solo artist is Arianna Occhipinti’s “Villages” red, a mix of contrada fruit for her classic or classico expression marking the entry point into her multifarious varietal world. The most crunchy and yet juicy frappato imaginable, high in intensity come to the world with open arms and in turn the world should embrace this wine. If your goal is either to introduce this most getable of grapes and/or a keen desire to enter the varietal gates then Occhipinti’s is the one. Come on in. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Arianna Occhipinti Grotte Alte 2020, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG

Were Grotte Alte tasting blind you would not be judged for thinking you might have Brunello di Montalcino in your glass and from a producer with ancient wisdom crossed and forward thinking. A true terroir-driven Balsamico marks the entry and the construction is a bit severe which means the tannins are austere. Volatility swirls like sangiovese but here are nero d’Avola and frappato co-mingling in their rarefied air. Some will find the grip and the volatile elements severe and yet others will check their egos to wait and allow these grapes to be ratified and conjoined after years of settling and care. Choose the latter and great reward will follow. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted May 2025

Cantine Fina Vitraolo Vino Rosso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

A purely Sicilian red wine, something of history, culture and remembrance, of freshness and sheer drink-ability. Tart for certain, that and a chewy character but without weight or density. The fiercest passion in an authentic, austere and rustic red. This despite a challenging vintage of heat, humidity and low yields. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

With Giovanna and Rosanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini

Caruso & Minini Perricone Perripo’ 2022, Terre Siciliane IGP

The pretty dabs of perricone perfume come easy out of the dialectical sounding and expressive Perripo’ because, well clarity and purity. Plump and juicy raisin to plum with more freshness than leathery feels and sneaky structure partially shrouded beneath. Proper varietal effort, vintage fun, in and out, especially with fine and gifting 2022 as the source. Really something unique, finishing at a local Balsamico, especially like mint. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Caruso E Minini Frappello 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

A blend of frappato and nerello mascalese, first vintage was 2004, now 20 years later, same strong colour contrast from the first to less out of the last. Tannins are the opposite and so the wine has remained the same. Gustatory in every way, “the wine for everybody,” says Giovanna Caruso. From a vintage “non facilisimo,” she says because of heat but Caruso E Minini’s growing zone sees strong winds to help maintain freshness in spite of the temperatures. Full and satisfying with really sweet acidity. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Tasting with Giovanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini

Caruso E Minini Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Vuvalà 2022

The solo nero d’avola from western Sicily where strong winds and sea air make for some of the saltiest on the island. Persistent keeper of faith and fruit freshness when it really wants to dry out and head into the local Balsamico. It does not but stays a most hospitable marine airy course. The vines also grow in round stones (very similar to Rhône Galets) which keep the soils cool. Delicious and dreamy for nero. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Caruso E Minini Nino Rosso 2015, Terre Siciliane IGT

Four grape blend made in appassimento, a.k.a Amarone style in honour of grandfather and his red suspenders. Persistent and somehow still showing some fresh fruit despite the austerity and aridity created by the methodology. A juicy explanation to remind just how fine things can be when attention to detail and passion put collective hearts into making a wine. The mix is nerello mascalese, perricone, frappato and nero d’avola for just 7,636 bottles produced. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Cos Frappato 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

Beautifully clean, fragrant and fruit blossom perfumed frappato of immediate and seductive engagement. A whirl of controlled volatility, sweet acidity and carry over to palate flavours in mimic of the florals up front. All the fruit that could be desired, of a focus and a finesse to bely any pre-conceptualized DOC limitations and simply a varietal red you will want to taste and drink on a consistent basis, by the glass, to share with others and as a varietal teaching moment for what is possible. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Cos Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2022

Unexpectedly, remarkably and acceptingly fruit forward Cos Cerasuolo for which 60 percent nero d’Avola and (40) frappato occupy the same place and time. Sharing the stage of open generosity and to elicit immediate gratification. Welling with fruit (as opposed to bursting), expressive of skin muskiness and layered for notable purpose. That is to gift the DOCG by way of introduction and without challenge, neither by grip nor out of austerity. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Gabriele Di Paola and Enrica Spadafora – dei Principi di Spadafora

Dei Principi Di Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe N 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Only nero d’avola from concrete followed by steel though still not quite as expressive as it should be because of having just being bottled. From Spadafora’s central location towards the western half of Sicily of classic nero fruit from red through black, high acidity, intensity and spirit. Can’t wait to see what happens after another year (and even better two-plus) in bottle. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted May 2025

Dei Principi Di Spadafora Sole dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGT

The first vintage of a signature red one year in bottle, only syrah from the highest vineyard on top of the hill at 450m. Very exposed with direct sun which would have been a challenge for nero and so, syrah. Richness at the height for grape and style, woody still and this is 2012 but freshness will persist and the wine will integrate. This may sound absurd but truth is truth and Spadafora likes old wines. As will you. Last tasted May 2025

Sees one year in barriques and the rest in tank, bottled in July of 2022. Lengthy aging but just a short wood stay so don’t come expecting heavy vanilla, lavender or other French barrel notes. Come instead for the florals, spices, spiciness, liquid pepper, but no smoke. Chalky, tannic and all soil-related, created and driven. Can last for another 10 years. Clean and varietally obvious though not the iodine-meaty syrah kind. Perfume and texture are everything. Balsamico and mint at the finish. ”La terra,” shrugs Francesco Spadafora. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Perricone Ribeca Sicilia DOC 2019

Singular styled perricone, about face and in complete opposition to those from both central and western Sicilia. Here more related to macchia and Balsamico, brushy, herbal, botanical, verdant and dusty. A stand alone and idisosyncratic varietal red that teaches so much about the triad of place, style and effect. You only need to taste to believe and be aware that this is the sort of Sicilian red to surely show up in masterclasses through time. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2020

The aromas are all fruit skins, of 70 percent nero d’Avola and (30) frappato musky and dried fruit grippy. The aging time in bottle has done the work to bring this Cerasuolo into the initial stages of secondary character which means the ideal drinking window is right where you stand with bottle in hand. With thanks to steel and neutral oak there is just enough freshness and vibrancy to make it work. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

With Anna Ruini – Pellegrino 1860

Pellegrino 1880 Perricone Capoarso 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

And then, and now welcome to perricone from western Sicily at the hands of a producer with a long and winding history of research, development and investigation into varietal wines. Here this combination of spice masala and richness, low and slow developed flavours and macchia. A savoury event run through and many complexities to discover. Last tasted May 2025

A varietal perricone, a.k.a pignatello, always strong and spicy, best raised in richer soils. Pellegrino’s is simply, unequivocally and unmistakably true to the variety, of a rustic edge and yet here undeniably pure as it not only should, but will be. Not a tannic example, nor is it particularly long, but it does what wants and needs. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Pellegrino 1880 Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC Gazzerotta 2022

From Pellegrino’s main estate near to Mazara del Vallo and Campobello di Mazara with views across the sea to Pantelleria. Rich, chalky and seriously spicy nero at the height of intense heights. A wine that needs time to settle into its skin and be good to itself. One made for good times ahead. And BBQ. Just sayin’. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

To be sure a different vintage than Feudo di Mezzo 2023, with two years in bottle and yet elevation (between 840 and 890m) does everything to create, install and define freshness for nerello mascalese aboard L’Etna. Time, barrel and place have come together and the volcanic sense of earth and rock is inseparable from the varietal fruit, even from a 2021 that in some other cases is having a time maintaining its distinction. Eruzione is a lone wolf, a nerello as if by blood dripping from the animal’s mouth. Drink this with iron-rich meat – Fegato, either as Pâté or skewered and grilled. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Nero d’Avola Sicilia Menfi DOC Plumbago 2022

If only because tasting with the team at Planeta is equal parts revelation and comedy, it’d hard not to think about and invoke finning things. Like “I want you to cut down the mightiest Plumbago in the forest…with a herring!” But not too big. But this is the biggest of the Plumbago because the vintage gave great heat and therefore the Plumbago shrubbery could not help but take over the entirety of the savoury elements in this nero d’Avola. Full on Menfi Balsamico, or an otherwise named local macchia, like fragrant hay, a.k.a. Plumbago. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May 2025

Principi di Butera Inzolia Serò Sicilia DOC 2018

Varietal insolia and from the central Sicilian producer having long ago made the decision to see a white variety that should and can age. Made in a reductive way, now into full on flint and smoulder, a lit paraffin note meeting something petrol-like in the wild ways of sémillon. Surely as curious as it is inviting and while by itself there is this feeling of curiosity it’s all in fine and helpful fun to enjoy when the timing is right. Which can be said for 2018 right now and so a good choice to pour at Sicilia en Primeur 2025. Last tasted May 2025

A new soil which is both a blessing and a curse, a pain and a joy to work with. Quality comes from lower yields and specific soils. Here insolia grazes into hyper-metallic and mineral territory, protected from the heat of the sun, in avoidance of saturated copper, sunflower and gilded gold. Very short skin-contact and nurturing care turn insolia into this, sapid and even salty, expressive of the calcareous soil and the sea breezes coming from a mere eight kilometres away. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted May 2019

Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia DOC 2021

Still from a time when the team was working with young vines and not yet having reached the point where they could express the true nature of Serra Ferdinandea. Of syrah set to elevation and nero d’Avola, the latter planted in the windiest and driest place. This for fruit meeting backbone and the hope they will find each other, layer, integrate and create spemthing special in their shared space. The style is invoked even if the full finesse is not yet found. Oh so close to what really matters and whole bunches used in 2022 will help encourage this next level of reality. Rosso at stage one is primary, a work in progress and a harbinger for what is to come. Just a bit woody and chalky-grainy at this time. Drink 2026-2028. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Regaleali Rosso Del Conte 2020, Sicilia Contea Di Sclafani DOC

One of Sicily’s most famous red blends with a track record for aging, of nero d’Avola and perricone out of Tasca’s grand Vigna San Lucio. The large block was first identified and isolated in 1959, now 60 years into its tenure. Aging is multifold, in chestnut barrels, Slavonian cask and small French wood. This 2020 is officially the 50th anniversary of the Rosso del Conte label with one of the most developed richness of them all, all the while maintaining its recognizable grace and every subtle aspect its always meant to express. Poise and focus but also impressive fitness. Will age two decades. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2025

Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2022, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

From Massimo Lentsch’s Lipari Island winery with the seedless grape corinto (well actually one central seed) which means high acidity, low pH and also tannin. Not to mention lessening of alcohol that barely reaches 13 percent. A spoonful of nero d’avola augments but changes the sharp and basaltic obsidian nature of the wine. Sees 18 months in cask and you can serve this lightly chilled. This due to the relative low tannic profile and elevated acidity which also means juicy, summery and fresh. Don’t let the colour fool you. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Tenuta di Castellaro Corinto 2021, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

Pure corinto, seedless and more straightforward than Ossidiana but both are made for drinking cool, fresh and long. A bit more rusticity and also richness because there is some (third passage) tonneaux aging involved in the maturation. More tannin but still nothing austere or causing any real tension. Just 3,000 bottles made of this unique Lipari red. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tenute Navarra Disiato Frappato Sicilia DOC 2024

Riper fruit, dark and later picked, rusty edging for black cherry style. Easy style of frappato but surely readied sooner and with more colour needs than fruit substance as compared to many. No sense holding onto any of these bottles. Drink up. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Vall Dell’Acate Frappato di Vittoria Frappato 2024, Sicilia DOC

Extremely fruit evident and forward, distinctly frappato as its varietal source, a dictionary entry and open window into its Vittoria world. Crunchy red, of pomegranate, cranberry and red crabapple, tart and juices flowing for thirst quenching activities. Open the wine glossary to “F,” scroll down to frappato and this wine may very well be there to explain what it is you are tasting. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Vall Dell’Acate Frappato Vigna Bidone Sottana – Vino di Contrada Vittoria Frappato DOC 2024

The single vineyard slash contrada wine is a different beast as compared to the Vittoria DOC “Villages” label because it really is a tannic beast. The fruit chosen must surely be blessed with a certain ability to work with austerity and depth in its tannins. Vigna Bidone Sottana is both harder to approach and currently unclear to comprehend. A crusted exterior holds importance within, of fruit and acidity in layered composure and intendment, each working through machinations together and for a later, greater purpose. Needs a year, better yet two to come together and begin to express itself. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

Bianco

Alessandro di Camporeale Catarratto Monreale DOC Mandranova 2020

From the cru called Mandranova in Monreale and a a little portion of tonneaux used to induce flesh but also texture and expand the possibility for some time in bottle. Ambitious to a degree but there is no taking the place out of the wine. Stone fruit pulpy, sapid, sweetly herbal and with citrus meandering through lemon, lime and mandarin. Check back in two years. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Cantine Fina Catarratto Fiorente 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the most northern zone for Fina and yet distinctly western Sicilian in origin, style and effect. A bounce back vintage for the winery and ideal for the grape to express its sense of place. Crunchy and salty, mineral and satisfying. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Tasting with Sergio Fina – Cantine Fina

Cantine Fina Grillo Firma del Tempo Sicilia Riserva DOC 2023

A stand out and alone grillo because Riserva and therefore we intuit part of the ferment being sent to wood. An ambitious way to approach the variety, to give it the chardonnay touch for a fuller, richer and even buttery expression. French barrel but still there is the marine saltiness and sandy soil inscriptred sapid character. You can take grillo out of Trapani but you can’t take Trapani out of the grillo. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Cantine Fina Grillo Kebrilla Sicilia DOC 2024

The second of two grillo, also raised partially in steel and part in French wood. The younger and fresher one, with green apple bite, more sapidity, less wood and similar styling. Crunchy and with green Chile capsicum bite on the back end. Just a bit overdone yet without the concentration of Riserva. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Caruso e Minini Grillo Lillo Sicilia DOC 2024

Hard not to see this as vehemently Western Sicilian grillo, from the sea and the winds for a slice of experience but also one that assimilates some skin musky aromatics to enhance the grillo fruit. Ideal mix of salinity and sapidity with some metal at the finish. Never a wrong time for a sip of Lillo. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Giovanna and Rosanna Caruso – Caruso e Minini

Caruso e Minini Catarratto Catalù Sicilia DOC 2024

Not only unique for catarratto but authentic and existing right at the heart of the concept of ARCA, “associazione regionale catarratto autentico.” The story of grape coming from place with its marine airy and salty entry morphing through rusty fruit, citrus, fennel and finally into a sapid, botanical finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Catarratto 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT

The catarratto is timeless and you can drink it any time of the day. Literally and expalins Enrica Spadafora, “in our area the freshness of the land is what determines what comes from the grape and place.” A bit tannic however, sneakily so and things will change if you allow them to. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Don Pietro Monreale Bianco 2024

Only catarratto which qualifies as a varietal wine for the Monreale denomination, no longer inclusive of grillo, from concrete to steel in terms of fermentation and maturation. The feeling of skin contact is palpable even though it is just four days because a salve texture and tannic profile settle into the palate. Still the acidity and freshness are preserved for a balanced varietal wine. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted twice, May and June 2025

Dei Principi di Spadafora Vignaioli in Sicilia Principe G 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Just grillo and six months on lees for body and spirit with time having brought about some maturing notes to create great varietal curiosity, like preserved pears or peaches and a settling on the palate. Persistent but not of a waxing energy per se. Plenty of texture and flavour to mull over, on and about. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Sicilia DOC Fornelli 2024

A rebound vintage but at Feudo Montoni consistency is king because Fabio Sireci will never force a square peg into a round hole. The 2024 season was an easier fit to produce varietal wines as he sees fit, here with that great mix of the salty and the sapid. Just spot on and poured at the right temperature inzolia is just so, so good. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicilia DOC Masso 2024

Sharp catarratto, cut through fruit and palates like a knife, a specific mineral that of course is a bit saline but in catarratto it’s really all about sapidity. Fabio like his whites with some austerity and this is the white that has the most, with bitter almond notes come out in the aroma, as marzipan at the finish. This can age, you better believe it. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

Feudo Montoni Grillo Sicilia DOC Timpa 2024

More aromatic than catarratto, not quite moscato floral but scenting yellows and whites, a honeysuckle imagined with lemon citrus blooms. Still ’24 grillo is taut with vague austerity (thought not catarratto austerity) and as with all the Montoni whites the grillo too is so very linear and vertical. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Gulfi Carjcanti 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the wine with the dialectical name for carricante and a beautifully bittered tincture that speaks to sunshine for fruit first and volcanic feels second. They come together but will only improve their relationship with tome in bottle. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Pellegrino 1880 Grillo Sicilia Superiore DOC Senarià 2023

Senarìa means “cold” for a clone of grillo planted in 1980 ’s since been propagated by Pellegrino for more hectarage. The only grillo produced as a superior in Sicily with age and clonal specificity creating the identifiable DOC. Almost like serious chardonnay in style and effect, a Burgundian bite and crispy character that’s part unexpected and part intense. The richness comes from the palate, as it should for a two-part experience growing and will continue to grow in stature. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Pellegrino 1880 Isesi Pantelleria Bianco DOC 2022

A Bianco in which zibbibo is the key with altitude and exposition to the winds being the catalyst. Different plots in several contrada are chosen as contributors of their varietal fruit expressed as a white wine that should and will age for years. Falls into the semi-aromatic, cousin in style to moscato sort of way and the tannins lay really low. They are the underscore, the horizontal backbone that fruit but also acidity glide over and develop their motion. This is a wine of journey, never static and one to look forward to tasting when it passes five to ten years of age. Last tasted May 2025

Pellegrino 1880 Vergine Marsala Riserva DOC Single Barrel Nº 018 2005

With Planeta winemaker Patricia Tóth

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2022, Sicilia DOC

At a time it was the high elevation and now it’s really more about the established appellative functionality that dictates the specific DOC labelling of Eruzione 1614. There are varietal carricante on L”Etna and there is Eruzione, a Bianco as definitive to tell an old story and relay the message of soil, stone and place. The 2022 is exceptional, rising and seemingly hovering above the ground, something very hard to do for fruit grown on volcanic terroir! Yet here is this levitating Etnese, a Bianco of weightlessness and incredible acidity. Will drink well for five years, in another terrific alternate state for five more and then who knows what magic through five more after that. Drink 2027-2037. Tasted May 2025

Planeta La Segreta Bianco Sicilia DOC 2024

Ninety percent of the blend is three-fold, of grillo, grecanico and chardonnay, plus 10 percent “others” which includes the aromatic viognier. All adds up to one of Sicily’s most drinkable whites and there can be no argument there. Cool, chill, kick back, sip and relax. Here, there and everywhere. Put on the Beatles or whatever makes you tick. Just drink it. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Chardonnay Sicilia Menfi DOC 2023

Warmth begets riches and yet 2023 is not the warmest of Ulmo vintages but chardonnay has so much experience, developed vine age and proven track record to get into this full and substantial place. Without fail and the fans of this large production Sicilian pioneer will again be granted their wish. Chardonnay is big and it is grand, with the benefits of barrel and sun, all in balance. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Chardonnay Sicilia Menfi DOC Didacus 2022

For Didacus chardonnay rises to the island’s highest level because it receives the respect and elévage it so deserves. Hard to find a vintage as firm and as tight as 2022, weather related of course with heat units having come fast and intense, but also elongated through to the earliest pf picking times. That would be the first week of September and thankfully so because acidity keeps the dream alive. Didacus is drinking at peak right now – do not sleep on it’s power or potential and find a way to get there now. Last tasted May 2025

Production began in 1995 while the vines are now nearly 45 years of age. In the southwest part of Sicily, in the Ulmo area around the village of Menfi where a corridor of wind, “our favourite friend,” tells Santi Planeta, blowing through between the lake and the sea. Through vines growing between 100 and 450m, breathing cool life, especially in the summer. The 2022 vintage saw plenty of rain though not concentrated at any particular time and so the constant events of moderation were something remarkable considering how often extreme climate events are increasingly more prevalent. The coming vintage of 2023 and 2024 will be affected by them, mostly because there was no rain. This chardonnay is impeccably balanced between fruit and acidity, acidity and texture, texture and tannin. The progression is seamless, the result precise and anyone who does not the recognize the experience and continued work put in may not be paying close attention. That’s fine but know just how special a (relatively) large production, semi-cool climate chardonnay this truly is. Planeta’s year-to-year consistency is truly impressive. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Bianco Sicilia DOC 2023

A 50-50 split between grillo and sauvignon blanc from a season with drama because of early heavy rains and yet there no Perenospera (mildew) developed up on the vineyard’s hills. In this vintage the directness and linearity of the sauvignon takes control but this is also the style, from clean maceration for a capture of saline intensity to keep fleshy and golden maturity at bay. The grillo plays along but never speaks up or steps out of place. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Chardonnay C’Eragià 2022, Sicilia DOC

Etna chardonnay made with French wood completely un-toasted out of Rampante where a chardonnay vineyard already existed when Alberto Tasca bought the estate. The wood is virtually unnoticeable, lemon attacks the palate and the energy is simply great. Graceful while volcanic spirit adds the intangible pizzazz. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Fondazione Whitaker Grillo Mozia 2024, Sicilia DOC

Grillo from Mozia island off the coast of Trapani and Marsala, the only important variety and 40 year-old vines for the most unique expression of the grape. An ancient expression if you will and quite possibly the saltiest of them all. Some will find this sharp and austere but there is sneaky richness and intensity that belies the sear and strike of the grillo. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia Vigna di Paola 2024, Salina IGT

Saltier and more vertical of the two Salina malvasia, less fleshy but also juicy character, instead a more briny caper measure and mix of marine elements. Volcanics come into the soul of this malvasia with impunity and the mineral austerity is nothing short of intense. If Didyme intoxicates it is this Vigna di Paola that takes full control of your senses. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia Didyme 2024, Salina IGT

Iron volcanic sands make for vines and grapes that develop a relationship only Salina will own, different even than Lipari and in terms of malvasia there is nowhere else in the varietal diaspora where it comes way like this. A mineral that gets in you, an intoxicant that runs through the veins and causes a true stoning. Imagine capers and ricotta, shrimp and lime. It’s all there in sweet, salty and semi-aromatic intensity. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice 2024, Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT

A blend of malvasia (della Lipari) and carricante as an extremely youthful and so in certain ways playing the part of a 2024 preview although it’s a finished wine. There really is nothing like this, nine months on lees with bâttonage every month. Consider this as “Etna Bianco plus” with more marine influence, a spirited buzz about it and a fleshiness matched by this mix of flint and isle mineral feel. Just bloody delicious. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tenuta di Castellano Eúxenos 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Just malvasia di Lipari, ”lightly” fermented on skins in one cacciopesto amphora, a lightly permeable type for just 1,800 bottles. Simulates an imagining of a history of sunken greek amphora and so a message is felt and transmitted for making a wine that just needed to be made in reference to the lore. Ultra textural and a fascination with fate that requires one to abandon a perspective firmly embedded within a knowable methodology of winemaking culture. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tenuta Regaleali Catarratto Sicilia DOC Buonsenso 2024

Intensity and concentration of sweetly herbal and salty fruit with persistence as much as any varietal wine in Sicliy. Happens to be catarratto, one so full, expansive and linear. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Etna Bianco

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2023

Cavaliere as a contrada white is getable and found in mid course for carricante of middle weight, fleshiness and structure. In other words a balanced Etna Bianco that has arrived early and readied for consumption ahead of the other single place wines. The metallic notes are purely basaltic and while fruit is plenty pleasant it’s not really the lead driving factor. Cavaliere is specific and noted for that. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2023

Rinazzo as a contrada Etna Bianco is surely more reserved and stoic especially as compared to (Cavaliere), as if it were let’s say Vaucopins and Cavaliere were Beauroy. Unnecessary wine region comparisons aside there is a richesse and a golden sun meets volcanic mineral accumulation to set Rinazzo aside. Definitely its own Bianco, at once structured and then feeling mature. Feels like a wine having arrived and yet not quite there. Makes for another great and curious Etna Bianco study in contrada-designed peculiarities. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2025

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2023

There is Cavaliere, Rinazzo and then there is Monte Serra. Hard to imagine three Etna Bianco from the same producer could each act so different. Monte Serra is the reductive and hard to access carricante, stuck in the basalt, shut tight and currently immovable. Not exactly expressive nor seemingly looking to act so any time soon. Would give this a year to sort out its thoughts and reconcile its differences between parts. That said the distribution of weight in Monte Serra’s design creates a sense of stability and harmony in its architecture. Thinking further we’d all consider waiting two years to see a release of the magic and fantasy. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

With JustSicily’s Federica Matranga

Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC 2024

First ’24 out of the gates, clean, open, fragrant and fresh. Apple juiced and as readied in simplicity without fuss, obfuscation or muss, in as much as it seems possible from Etna Bianco. The time to drink is now. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted May 2025

Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Calderara 2023

Next level interest and complexity comes from this Etna Bianco out of the Contrada Calderara where reds shine and whites like this are golden proud. Equanimous mix of stone fruit and volcanic savour come together and do so with seamless ease. For someone who wishes to experience the next level above and beyond regional or say “Villages” Etna Bianco it is this carricante that will help show the way. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Rich, luxe et volupté carricante for the sort to seduce and reel in hundreds of new varietal consumers. Also that which should surely please many who have already attended the party. More than ample freshness, crisp bites, orchard fruit, mineral sparks and finishing bitters. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Sul Vulcano 2022

Oh so specific style of Etna Bianco from carricante tucked into the volcano and scenting like a garden wet with rain. As if petrichor soaked into basalt, effusive and smelling like nothing ever before, especially when the Ginestra joins the mix. Crunch and sway, crisp apple bites and varietal oscillations. Top vintage for this Donnafugata Etnese white, clean and yet leesy, complex and inviting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

The team of Generazione Alessandrio

Generazione Alessandro Etna Bianco DOC Trainara 2023

Of 85 percent carricante and (15) catarratto near Lingualossa which being on the eastern slope increases the marine influence. Push-pull posit tug between the volcanic and the botanical or perhaps they are actually one in the same. Clean and focused Etna Bianco in any case. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2024

Rich and fulsome, as concentrated as Nerina will ever be and surely a factor of tight, small and low yielding bunches. These as a sub-factor from a condensed vintage of heat units and less water accumulated in each berry. Nerina as Etna Bianco 2024 travels right up the rising angles of the palate, gets into that nook at the top of the jaw before receding into full golden fleshiness. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

Feudo as the cleanest of Russo’s carricante, crisp and of a contrada clarity for whole rounded expressiveness. Good clean lees living from 2023 Feudo with segments of lemon and white grapefruit providing a plethora of fresh citrus flavour. Nothing herbal or savoury about it, just the facts, of fruit and mineral. Last tasted May 2025

New Bianco for Giuseppe Russo, a selection of 100 percent carricante from three hectares within the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard and contrada. Feudo is not San Lorenzo but it is something remarkable in its own right. More botanical and phenolic but also a level of citrus preserve not noted anywhere but Feudo. Crazy level of implosive citric intensity and taut character. The behaviour is so different to San Lorenzo with flavours that mean business in the most impressive way imaginable. Intensity off the charts, concentration so impressive, energy that builds and builds. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

With Giuseppe Russo and Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2023

Graci’s Muganazzi is a true blue contrada Bianco from stone, of mountain reduction by way of its processes. The palate gets past the wall of aromatic sound to tell us what we need to know, or at least part of what the future holds. This is serious and protractive carricante, cased in a hard protective shell, waiting to be released. Crispy and encrusted but time will do what’s necessary. There is a great an substantial amount of fruit which is what matters most. And of course the volcano. Drink 2027-2033. Tasted May 2025

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2023

Apposite to Muganazzi is Arcurìa, a contrada carricante with more immediate flesh and plenty of backbone in support. Arcurìa is also the truly leesy Etna Bianco, built on the yeasty stuff and more akin to wooded Chablis than almost any other. This reminds of Fourchaume if such a comparison could be tolerated, but either way the wine is built to last. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Bianco DOC Ante 2021

Smoky from its reductive and flint stone struck moments, the fruit not only behind but well back with volcanic sand after a rain wedged expressively in between. Everything about Ante screams volcanic Etna, in stone, rock, sand, mineral and elemental style. A must try to begin believing. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Bianco DOC Imbris 2020

I Custodi is the kind of place to raise cariccante and Imbris the kind of label to speak in Etna Bianco clarity. The cool-climate factor and style might make you think the area is cold as hell but oh,no,no,no and Imbris is a kind of rocket man. The 2020 holds such a beautiful combination of lees driven fruit and volcanic mineral so there is no doubt a new age is upon this estate. The wines have been working towards this moment and here they are. Beautiful and inviting, welcoming and fine. Last tasted May 2025

Varietal carricante at 800m fermented in steel, put to barrel and then one year in bottle. So much corporeal flesh on the body of a seriously developed Bianco. Has come into a fine place but my goodness so much texture, citrus and length. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Volpare 2023

Confident, cool and still presently stoic holding on to a controlled, yet to open the gates and be released intensity. Perfectly clean lees living within a structure of carricante built for pleasure and also aging. Really fine work from Contrada Volpare with many years of expressive reveal still to come. Last tasted May 2025

Youthful is the understatement and Volpare the name, so say it loud. This is indeed singular Etna Bianco, as they should be but some are in a league of their own, as Mugeri’s eastern wines clearly are. The estate has taken it to the next level with an ascension of elevated mountain fortuity but also depth determined by terroir which can only be transmitted when agriculture abides. Abides because the maker makes it happen and Volpare delivers generously while also with precision and finesse. Leave this for 18 months or more to settle the relationship between rocks and acidity. After tasting Frontebosco and also Frontemare you realize the latter is the true catalyst to propel this cuvée selection. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023

Seemingly an understatement made but its only by the music this Etna Bianco will be free. No doubting more finesse, focus and precision from the carricante out of the vineyard facing the forest, an herbal cooling coming in, upping the botanical feels, its development low, slow and perhaps still far away. The taut nature of Frontebosco means the requiem to await what’s coming should be at least a year. Last tasted May 2025.

Versante est which separates Mugeri from not just the north but also the south and the future will surely look to this area for greatness. Not only Volpare contrada but a section within, here called Frontebosco, as in facing or in front off the forest and so the herbals here within are assumed to be elected by the nearby woods. Makes for freshness but also a fruit fleshiness that the more general Volpare does not show. A full, substantial and impressive Etna Bianco that might just appeal to everyone. Superiore indeed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024.

Maugeri Etna Bianco DOC Superiore Contrada Praino Frontemare 2023

From the first to the sea we now receive the carricante out of the vineyard facing the Ionian, a stiff breeze blowing through, keeping the sails taut and the speed up, all the while a finish line yet far away. More lees coming from Frontemare mixing with sea spray for an Etna Bianco tight as they come, yet airy and rising. Would wait two more years for parts to come together and waves to calm down. There will be smooth sailing ahead. Last tasted May 2025

Frontemare, “facing the sea,”as opposed to Frontebosco, “facing the wood.” As such this would be east facing from Etna’s east sector and so the block with the view creates a unicorn of an Etna Bianco as fascinating as it seemingly gets. The most crisp, crunchy, fresh and intense of Mugeri’s whites, citrus squeezed throughout and long as the zig-zagging wind of a single road down to Catania and into the sea. Just wow, with layers upon layers to unreel, unfurl and unroll for a long aging period ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco di Sei 2022

Perfectly expressive carricante from 2022 for a vintage not always caught at optimum, however the Costanzo team’s relentless. Last tasted May 2025

A cuvée of all parcels from different contrade, including the homefront Santo Spirito, along with Cavaliere. On average 90 percent carricante with (10) catarratto. Only raised in stainless steel, persistently fresh and if any region in the world might be compared with it would be Chablis AOC, direct, salty, smart and widely purposed. Tasted September 2024

Just have to say wow because Bianco di Sei comes equipped with a level of intensity that was not quite expected from 2022. Not so much a volume or an explosion aromatically speaking but an extreme set of eccentricities that crash aboard the palate. Likely needing some rest and down time to integrate because the level of extract here (including volcanic activity) is simply off the charts. Etna incarnate, pointed and exciting. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

In reality these last three or four years have always been warm but ’22 was frankly very good, warm yet without any real challenges. What drives this carricante is an unwavering focus and persistence, a balance from start to finish without dips or oscillations. The relationship between Costanzo and Santo Spirito in Bianco is seamless, now seven years into their partnership. Last tasted May 2025

High level aromatic volume and concentration from Santo Spirito ’22 and we know right away that this wine knows exactly who it is, where it comes from and where it wants to go. Volcanic salts are also present on the nose from a Bianco of great stage presence and such a smart textural weave that gains every bit of the palate’s confidence. The connection is prescient, reaction calming and conclusion poignant. This is how you make and present Contrada-specific Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

High spirit from the Contrada specific blocks to speak on behalf of local saints and soils. Volcanic vernacular, citrus and herbal, gelid cool, leesy clean and indefatigably healthy. Fine carricante for 2021 and a vintage that is sometimes confounding. Not here in an expressive and beautifully made example. So very 1879 in terms of volcanics and therefore Santo Spirito tells the story. Last tasted May 2025

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, lighter brown for Santo Spirito, from the contrada vineyard at 700m on the northern slope that comprises one out of three “islands within the island” of L’Etna. Still just an infant, implosive and insular, wound so tight, yet to explode. Give this another year, just as the first taste had indicated for months prior. Tasted September 2024

A fine vintage and and even finer Contrada, that being Santo Spirito where carricante (and 10 percent cattarrato) are given every soil, geological and micro-climatic advantage. There is an accumulation of ripeness and stone cool mineral groove from location and acumen that make this move with incremental ability. It will slowly define itself over along period of time that will be fascinating to watch every step of the way. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

The most recent bottling for the cru Bianci and this out the contrada vineyard down slope from Palmento Costanzo. Perhaps not the tension of Santo Spirito and surely more richness yet still the balance between fruit and the structural parts. Cavaliere is remarkable for its quality consistency year in and year out. Unwavering Bianco. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Very different to Santo Spirito, riper and richer, more cumulate golden sun, lees still a major factor in the overall expression. Just a touch of reduction, tart with tight lines and increased juxtaposition between stylistic parts. Not as focused as Santo Spirito but surely seductive and generous. Last tasted May 2025

Note the colour of the lava soil on the label, darker brown for Cavaliere, from the contrada vineyard at 700m in the southwest “island” of L’Etna. A different expression to that of Santo Spirito, volumetric in terms of aromatics and less austere or rather locked tight. Here more sapid and botanical, less basaltic salinity and fleshier early on. More fruit forward, pulpy stone fruit like, amenability run higher and the Contrada-designate Bianco to drink while waiting for Santo Spirito to mature. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2023

Archineri as a Bianco is really open and expressive, delicious and generous from the word go and ready to please. Clean lees, a cool basaltic factor and white peachy stone fruit. The citrus is a bit neutral yet surely supportive and helpful in the overall feel of the wine. Really good quality and clean winemaking results in a wholly accessible and aiming to please white from L’Etna. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2022

Lees shows to be so integral and essential in the early development of Tascante’s Etna Bianco 2022 from the very important Contrada Sciaranuova. There is a play of current confusion while this youthful because the parts inside are bigger than the house that fits them. Expanding from within and needing more room to grow, to shed its weight even after eight months time. Last tasted May 2025

Vinified and aged in Slavonian Grandi Botti, “to preserve the verticality and freshness of the carricante” explains Tasca d’Almerita agronomist Michele Brusaferri. Plays hard to get and acts demure inside the halls of its aromatic silence but you know that the elevation and fine basaltic soil are the portents of Tascante’s main Contrada Sciaranuova that will see to conditions for change. Though soft you feel the wood, present with confidence yet the thread of cool, herbal and botanical rins from Buonora into this Bianco. Fruit will soon peek through and announce a scintillant’s arrival, blossoms too, namely orange and then to salty lime later on. Just takes some air, agitation and swirl to coax out the excitement and up into the stratosphere. Turns out to be crunchy and seriously salty Etna Bianco, like flakes of Maldon or Slovenian platinum for what can best be described as living the high seasoned life of Etna Bianco. Structure is there and so this should age quite well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Buonora 2024

Both the good hour and bonaire as from the French and carricante just about as fresh as you will ever experience. Fresh and fleshy, fleshy and delicious, delicious and satisfying. Just what you desire on the 12th of May at 650m above sea level aboard L’Etna. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC deAetna 2023

The term “deEetna” comes from a Latin pamphlet dated to 1494 expressing the sacredness of the oenological universe. Terra Costantino’s is one of the finer examples for 2023 by way of a blend led by carricante plus (15 percent) catarratto and (5) minnella. Ripening to fruition happened in the last ten days of September off of vines averaging 20 years. Yes to the palpable feeling of gainful concentration in juxtaposition to a fine and chiseled example with more wiry flesh hanging tuat on the mineral frame. Really well composed. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2024

The straightest and fullest of Etna Bianco expressions with all in clean lees bulking up the substantial aspects of the wine. This is the entry point, the gate for which to walk through into the ever expanding idiom that is Etna Bianco. Start here and then explore the rest. Last tasted May 2025

The vintage is represented in a most viscous way. Almost an oily character to 2024, indicative of the variable vintage with September having delivered some much needed warmth and sunshine for full phenolic grape development. A sapid iteration, botanical notes pervading and in the end it is texture that drives this Bianco machine. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2025

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Full on sun cumulate carricante from Pietrarizzo for what is surely as ripe and calculated an expression as they come. Full advantage taken of 2022 fruit for all that can be wanted from a Contrada Bianco example. Last tasted May 2025

Pietrarizzo is both available and confident, not idiosyncratic like Zottorinotto and also richer of fruit. There is an herbal and botanical way about this cru Bianco with splashes of catarratto bringing seasoning to the carricante. A bit spicy and even humid though the fruit is the thing and the volcanics an accent making for even more spice entertained. Such a solid Contrada based Bianco. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted and September 2024

Tenute Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021

No comparison between Pietrarizzo and Zotorinotto, first of course because of location but in this case also dramatically caused by vintage. The 2021s are not holding up with the same stage presence as wished for last year and the year before. In fact they’ve transformed into this idiosyncratic space. No different here with a carricante of reductive meeting wet stony elements. Feels like some diesel creeping in, not petrol per se (akin to TDN) and smoky rather than smouldering. A bit of a strange advance with likely something new again on the horizon. Last tasted May 2025

Of Tornatore’s cru-designated Bianci it is Zottorinotto that acts the most reductive and hard to crack. Great shell of protection and disguise, needing agitation and better still time. That said the 2021 is also fully formed, developed and very much ready to get at – make sure to aerate, decant if you can and allow the pleasures to be released. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Etna Rosso

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2023

Strong aromatic presence and pulse for Monte Serra 2023, mildly and effectively reductive holding parts known and unknown. Not to say the aromas are stifled because they burst if within a bubble and yet to explode without. The epitome of nerello macalese filling our hopes, thoughts and dreams with anticipation. Cuts from stone some dreams of its own and though restrained it keeps a watch over the distance with a look to the future. Monte Serra is always an Etna Rosso with the grip and structure to look farther on, to hold back the fruit and preserve it for later days. The 2023 is balanced and prepared for longevity – that much is clearly true and in view. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

Benanti Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2023

Tasting Monte Serra and Cavaliere 2023 side by side reveals much about place of origin because while the former looks farther on, the former engages today. A nerello masaclese that makes us see where we’ve both been, reaches us with immediacy and in turn we pay close attention. So much fruit interned so early, so little time to realize just how much is right there in this glass. It’s just that not opening and consuming bottles in the present will be hard to avoid. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC 2023

Knowable bricks and mortar nerello mascalese as Etna Rosso and dictionary entry for the DOC. Sweet vintage fruit, competently concentrated, simply and effectively structure. Does what needs and does it very well. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Cottanera Etna Rosso Contrada Feudo di Mezzo DOC 2021

Feudo di Mezzo of clout, expressiveness of largesse from the fullness of its old vines nerello mascalese fruit. Still a bit of a reductive nut to crack, a force field to break through, a softening needed to find full pleasure in the wine. A 2021 neither too hard nor to soft, the Goldilocks vintage as they say though the pressure is still applied. This FdM should come into its best years in six months or so. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Zottorinoto 2020

Give Zottorinoto an extra year an it will express itself with utmost generosity and here the Contrada’s Rosso is more than ready to go. Fruit sweeping and swelling across the plate, acids mellowed and tannins as well. As drink now a Rosso for the Contrada, as compared to any or all of this ilk on the mountain. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2020

Dusty and Balsamic terroir expression, especially for Etna Rosso and also Feudo di Mezzo. A high acid style to compliment and even more so extenuate the circumstance of nerello mascalese. A specific style as well and one that garners attention, namely because its persistence and length are really quite outstanding. Last tasted May 2025

Middle ground traveled and promise delivered for the large Feudo di Mezzo as Contrada sizes come, with fruit able to defend itself against generous wood though all parts launch a collective attack on the senses and palate. Big Rosso for Etna, strong boned and willed with the intention to impress. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Rosso Courdilava Dolce & Gabbana DOC 2020

Red stone fruit skin’s aromatic musk, pulpy to chewy within and fresh enough to keep a leathery character at bay. More tannin than expected and in fact they build quickly – this despite some four plus years having had the chance to settle the score. Still quite grippy and with a level of tension needing to subside. Impressive Etna Rosso. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Fragore Contrada Montelaguardia 2021

Noticeable ulterior as an expression of Etna Rosso in comparison to the Dolce & Gabbana Donnafugata label. A fullness of nerello mascalese pressed, dressed and prepared for success. Clearly one to serve up and explain the nature but also importance of a single contrada wine, lacking for nothing and of layers far from being shed. Give time because otherwise this wine will attack with impunity and not let go. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025

Firriato Cavanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Zucconerò Sciara del Tiglio 2021

Grainy if fine in that respect from specialized and decomposed volcanic sands that lend a very specific profile to Etna Rosso. Also quite ripe and so the palate holds a liquorice, leathery fruit chew character which speaks to drinking sooner rather than later. No doubt a singular wine and one that screams for best food accompaniment. The duck at Cavanera Wine Resort is ideal. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Generazione Alessandro Etna Rosso DOC Croceferro 2023

Only nerello mascalese off of the northeastern slope of Etna and the place where the iron cross, therefore Croceferro sits in the vineyard. A rich and tannic nerello with a tease of immediate gratification but the austerity in this tannins reminds that time will be the operative and necessity for best results. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Generazione Alessandro Etna Rosso DOC Scaramantica Vigna Vecchia 2021

Oldest vines are 80 years of age and nerello macacesle is joined by several others for a true Etnese field blend. Increases the fruit immediacy with concentration but even more so the tonic profile with fine-grained ruling and austerity that requests time, plenty of time. Seriously structured Etna Rosso no matter how you slice it. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Open for business, fruit and acids intertwined at their combined sweet heights. Good palate spiciness and a riveting sense of energy. Liquid chalky tannins still in transformation, likely to finish their movements in another year or so. But don’t hesitate as San Lorenzo is drinking beautifully right now. Last tasted May 2025

The gifts of San Lorenzo are of a slow release ilk the other cru and vineyards of Girolamo Russo are not, but this from 2022 is so full of riches it brings early joy. A great pleasure to have a glass even now with gregarious perfume and readied flavours, of red berries, liquid chalky to candied palate swaths and immediacy from this bottle of wine. San Lorenzo shows off the most glyercol and silken texture – it’s almost candied but of course it’s not. Spicy on the back side, sneakily structured and all the while with a glass we’re feeling fine. Can only improve and integrate with a couple of years time. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe 2022

If San Lorenzo is drinking at early peak right now then Piano delle Colombe should rightly be close behind. Yes in one sense and that would be more intensity of fruit concentration but then again no, because of this landslide of grippier tannin. There is no argument about seeing 2022 as a top Etna Rosso vintage and still the wood on 2022 Piano delle Colombe persists without melting or dissolving in. Some might find a bit too much while others will beg to strongly differ. The 2022 is right there where elements should rightly want to connect, intersect and layer. Perhaps not right away but in time, which will only embolden this Rosso with the wisdom and grace it is destined to express. Wait and anticipate seeing its reflection in the snow covered mountain. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May 2025

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC A Rina 2023

Put a ring around A Rina because no other Russo Rosso comes into view any sooner. None exhibit this level of juicy, luxe and getable richness and none shall pass, not for any reason at all. A Rina is a full and substantial nerello mascalese out of 2023, with the most liquidity come after dissolving grains of tannin for earliest drinking. No reason to wait. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2023

A reminder about origin, they being estate vineyards at 650-750m and aging of 18 months in concrete though this ’23 feels as though at least one big barrel was involved. Not quite as linear and serious an Etna Rosso as the previous 2022 surely was and still is. Youthful yes but more chew than crispiness in 2023, ripeness and sweetness in acidity. No reduction, open for business and read to rock. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2022

Spicing, spacing and perfume define Arcurìa with equal an opposing reflections for signs of Etna Rosso perfections and imperfections. Arcurìa from 2022 is showing quite the amount of barrel at this early stage, notes indicative of spice and challenge. Fruit is up to the task, metered, rising and falling in waves, there to speak of the open and closed spaces. All this to say the journey will end up in reflection in regards to a Rosso drinking forward for eventual gratitude. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted May 2025

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2020

The piece of Arcurìa needing two extra years of aging and settling time is Sopra Il Pozzo, ad esempio a me piace il sud. Or the north as it applies to this slope of L’Etna and this piece is expressive of the sweetest spicing over fruit as any on the mountain. Yes the southern section is also liked but here Pozzo is an Etna Rosso of wood that needs to melt in, puddle below and allow a rising of fruit. That it will with the nerello mascalese climbing the firm backbone of this 2020 with fine and upstanding repose. Impressive and structured for a very long life still laid out ahead. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted May 2025

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Rosso DOC Aetneus 2020

Fascinating study in Etna Rosso because these from I Custodi are different, stand out and alone nerello mascalese with (20 percent) nerello cappuccio. More than just the cappuccio but soil and location add up and amount to what’s in this glass. A certain kind of dried fruit, rich and leathery, studied and mature, weighty but without density. Now a settled wine with heavy mineral presence, a volcanic factor specific to I Custodi and when mixed with the winemaking style it all comes out a very certain way. Do you like it? Try it and find out. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Rosso DOC Saeculare 2016

The consistency of style from one I Custodi Etna Rosso to another is remarkable, to a wine, in all the wine. Yes the 20 percent nerello cappuccino is partly responsible for the semi-rustic, chewy dried fruit character but look further, or rather deeper into fine decomposition of basaltic soil. Location of course but whether you have 2020 or this 2016 in glass they all seem to be at nearly the same maturity. As here with Saeculare although it’s particular grip and structure see it age longer than Aetneus and this is prime time for tasting and in turn drinking this label. It will seem mature to some but know that this is the way and style of the house. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted May 2025

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Nero di Sei 2021

Fine verticality even from Rosso di Sei because, well 2021 and also the lava. Feels firmer than eight months ago and as a result may live even longer. Last tasted May 2025

Nero di Sei 2021 comes quicker to the point with near-immediate gratification because of vintage and also by way of the team allowig and even encouaging this to happen. Or abided more like it, with red berry fruit aromas that nerello mascalese can gift when the conditions are right. This is not to say that 2021 will fade into early light because it is in fact equipped with volume, concentration and backbone. A truly exceptional vintage that will appeal to all. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2021

With Fosca Tortorelli

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2020

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Archineri 2021

A different and singular animal for Pietradolce is Archineri, chewier and more palate workable than the rest of the Rosso portfolio. Lots of wood still noted on the 2021, changes yet to take effect, not here, not anywhere. Not tight as much as unable to come to be on the other side. Remains to be seen where this road will lead. To be honest it’s a bit resinous but youth is rebellion and maturity will come to experience. Drink 2027-2030. Tasted May 2025

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2021

Effusive perfume from Rampante 2021, more floral than Pietradolce’s other reds, tannins sweeter and less austere. An approachable character though we know that structure is built for a long and full experience. The most immediately recognizable balance and still time will be kind to this Rosso. Air is on side now, time as well for 10 years forward. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2025

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2021

Some dried fruit and a maturity in the feels of Feudo di Mezzo 2021 but oh my goodness what a charming, graceful and lovely bit of nerello mascalese love in this bottle. Opens slowly and I also feel like their is some sort of obfuscation but the truth is the truth and FdM ’21 is in a very good and right place. Drink this while Rampante and Archineri work through their challenges. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2025

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2021

From the opening salvo Santo Spirito is notable for its restraint and a closed aromatic tilt still very much a factor involved. Like Archineri, floral along with Rampante and so residing either in-between or as a combination of the two. A Rosso of layers, stepping stones taken up towards its eventual plateau. The barrel is melting here so slowly, the fruit fills full and substantial, the power less than intense and the energy still rising, Wait some more and then some more after that. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted May 2025

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC Feudo di Mezzo 2023

First vintage as a solo Feudo di Mezzo and labeled this way. Not that this Contrada ever creates the darkest nerello mascalese but 2023 is at the peak of lithe, airy and transparent. The vintage takes over from the Contrada with ever-persistent and linear consistency controlling its volcanic destiny. Without density or extravagance, not in any shape or form but instead a fineness that seeks no desperate gratification. Will it age? Of course it will. These are really old vines growing in volcanic rocks, though if perhaps not for decades. Tasted a second time, May 2025

Full and substantial Etna Rosso for Planeta and 2023, a challenge accepted and met, the effect positive and gaining. Spicing is essential, cumulative macchia also a matter of great importance with layers yet to be peeled away. The reveal is coming, let’s say after another 12-18 months, at which time we will speak of fruit leading and tannin trailing. Grande. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted May 2025

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2020

Varietal nerello mascalese only grown at 790m in Contrada Pianodario raised for one year in large Slavonian cask. This Etna Rosso is exactly what nerello mascalese is today. It may take a consumer three of four times and vintages before they get it but once they do they will never go back. High acid, transparency, brightest of red fruit, no rusticity and refined tannins. Delicate and at the same time serious. Just keeps getting better each time. Last tasted May 2025

Lighter of body but not aroma as it now enters with the volume turned up, a feeling of idiosyncrasy and high-level curiosity. Wild and exotic spicing owing to a 17th century lava flow now in a state of degradation to make certain the nerello mascalese growing in its sands are the recipient of its mineral profile. Tasted September 2024

High-toned, spirited and transparent nerello mascalese from Tasca’s L’Etna Tascante out of Contrada Pianodario. Red berry shine, acids excited and fruit a willing participant. Tarragon and Basil herbal, so very basaltic stony and truly a wine of place. Crunchy and ever so slightly resinous with balsamico mixing into the sweetness of fruit and acidity. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

With Sofia Ponzini – Tenute Bosco

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Spiced and lifted aromatics create an effect to deliver Etna Rosso with linearity, grace and stature. Scan a room and you will not miss this nerello mascalese because its confidence, poise and presence stand out in a crowd. Beautiful in a post classic way, part demure and beyond a doubt unmissable. Barrel that needs to settle down and in will do so in two years time and see five-plus years of ideal drinking after that. Brava Sofia, as always. Drink 2027-2032. Tasted May 2025

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Straight shooter this Etna Rosso, accessible and amenable to all, now and for all the right reasons. Fruit first, ripe and delicious, aromatically charged and energizing the entirety of the wine. Rosso for Rosso’s sake, crunchy and palatable with great toothsome character, A guarantee and stamp of quality in the most professional of Etna Rosso ways. Unwavering consistency from Tornatore. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2025

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2021

Etna Rosso as Pietrarizzo is nothing short of expressive, energetic and impressive. Fruit comes in waves, in and out of every pore and this “etichetta” exhibits finer and sweeter acidity than so many peers. Commercially viable for a lifted Etna Rosso to explain much about the mountain’s nerello mascalese. Quite fine, true substantial and very composed. Last tasted May 2025

If Tornatore’s classico Etna Rosso is the most understandable and straightforward 2021 DOC entry point there could be than we should expect Pietrarizzo to hyperbolize that idea. Exaggerate and also exist in a vacuum where great acidity and sneaky formidable structure combine for all that could be wanted and needed. Such is the case and with the estate’s glide into maturity because ripeness happens and getting to the point always in season. Fine work, as always, expected and desired. Should be ready, fully and completely in the late winter months. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted October 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Trimarchisa 2018

A cumulative experience in Etna Rosso, fruit three ways, acids and tannins in and out off every layer, a wine to imagine all the mountain can deliver. Tart, tight and substantial, all the nooks filled with elements fruity and minerally volcanic. As they should be. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted May 2025

Good to go!

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In the cool, cool, cool of the i4C

Aug6

Cool Chardonnay on ice

In the cool cool cool of the evening
Tell ’em I’ll be there
In the cool cool cool of the evening
You better save a chair

The 15th International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration took place just a few weeks ago and while every annual Niagara chardonnay experience is cool, this above the clouds 2025 edition was something other. Unexpectedly Godello was tasked with steering the educational component as emcee for the Thursday School of Cool at White Oaks Conference Resort and Spa. An honour and indeed a privilege it was, to share a stage with Canadian and international winemakers, winery representatives, distinguished minds and presenters. There was a palpable buzz in the room at this year’s School of Cool and also an uncommon level of expert conviction conferred by the moderators and panelists. The Canadian wine industry has assuredly come of age and chardonnay’s cool weekend was the perfect time to express the explorative, collaborative and measurable maturity of experience. Over those four days from July 17-20, the i4C was the coolest place to be.

The School of Cool July 17, 2025 Edition
(c) Cool Chardonnay

Godello is pleased to share his words spoken to the audience that day.

“Good morning, and welcome to Day One of #i4c, the coolest conference in the world. My name is Michael Godel, a wine writer based in Toronto, sometimes in Italy and in my spare time I play both critic and partner at WineAlign. When I was asked to emcee this year’s School of Cool I thought hmmm, compared to those who have previously served this post, what can I contribute? I’m neither as funny or savvy as my colleague John Szabo, not as witty and sharp as Chris Waters, certainly less accomplished than both Magdalena and Suzanne. But I am good at surrounding myself with smart and talented people. I look forward to introducing many of them to you today.

We are thrilled to welcome all of you for the 15th year of the i4C! (Holds up applause sign). Every year winery representatives and people who adore chardonnay from around the world congregate here in the Niagara region to celebrate the variations, intricacies and philosophies behind making cool climate chardonnay. I once asked the question, How can i4c the future through cool chardonnay? Chardonnay is cool, then, and now. Don’t we always seem to foresee 4C a future filled with chardonnay?

This year at i4C we have 43 participating wineries, including 12 internationals from England, France, Tasmania, Argentina and two wineries from each British Columbia and Nova Scotia.

Today, we are meeting on Indigenous lands, over which Indigenous people still hold jurisdiction. In the Niagara Region, where 27 of our participating wineries operate, we are meeting on the shared lands of the Haudenosaunee, Anishinaabeg, Wendat, and Chonnonton nations. A key treaty governing this territory is the “Dish with One Spoon” agreement. This treaty between the Anishinaabe, Mississaugas and Haudenosaunee binds them to share the territory and protect the land. Subsequent Indigenous nations and peoples, settlers, and all newcomers, have been invited into this treaty in the spirit of peace, friendship and respect. We all share the responsibility of ensuring the “Dish” is never empty, meaning that we must take care of the land and the creatures we share it with.

I would like to take a moment to acknowledge and thank our Educational Committee: Scott Wilkins, Rob Power, Elsa MacDonald, Dr. Jennifer Kelly of CCOVI at Brock University, Peter Rod of CCOVI and Niagara College and Trisha Molokach, our esteemed, tireless and incredible Event Director. Twelve years Trisha has poured heart and soul into this event. Thank you.

This weekend is made possible by the contributions of a dedicated group of volunteers who have spent countless hours preparing for this weekend. We have a wonderful team of folks pouring wine for you today, so if you happen to see someone in a colourful I4c t-shirt, make sure you take the opportunity to thank them for their time and efforts. None of this is possible without them.

We would love to see any photos or videos that you take today, so please be sure to tag us. Our Instagram handle and the i4C hashtag are both listed on the bottom of your name tag and on your tasting mat.

At the end of the first session I will get to more specific housekeeping details and we do have a full schedule ahead of us today. There will be three educational sessions and tastings, with coffee breaks and a lunch in between, followed by a walk-around tasting in the afternoon. Please refer to the booklet provided at your seat for more information on timing and session details.

Before I proceed I would like to take a moment to remember a great friend of the i4C. Just a few weeks ago we lost Nicolas Potel, a great winemaker, négoce, father and friend. We miss you Nico and all of us wish you were here. But believe me I can’t think of anyone who would want us to just go out and have a grand time. Nicolas Potel came from Bourgogne for the very first event and his winery Domaine de Bellene was present here at i4C eight times, including last year when his son Alphonse joined us for the weekend. We should all raise a glass of cool chardonnay to the great Nicolas Potel.”

Coolest Chardonnay of The School of Cool (c) Cool Chardonnay

Session One

“Our keynote speaker for this year is Clive Pursehouse. Based in Seattle, Washington, Clive Pursehouse is Decanter’s US Editor and Regional Editor for the Pacific Northwest. He is the creator of the site Northwest Wine Anthem, Culture Editor at Peloton Magazine and the newly minted Fausto Magazine. This I gather makes him an avid cyclist. In fact I’m told he is a fan of Cyclocross, which is a unique, non-Olympic discipline of cycling that can be best described as a cross between road cycling, mountain biking and steeplechase. Wait, there’s more. Cyclocross takes place on technical outdoor courses of grass, dirt, mud, sand or sometimes snow. Snow. Still more – Pursehouse broke his pelvis cycling in the middle east and spent who knows how long in casts and wheelchairs. In other words and though I’ve just met him, not unlike a close friend I have known since nursery school who is an ultra-marathon runner, I would have to say that Clive is clearly nuts. And he’s from Pittsburgh (I like Pittsburgh!) but he does know a lot about wine, including chardonnay, especially those beauties from Washington and Oregon. I would say that his mix of intense exercise, the snow part and wine study make him ultra qualified for this role as our keynote speaker. When our Concierge asked if he had any allergies, Clive replied, “yah, tusk.” Tusk? Well Clive, this walk up song is for you. (Cue Tusk by Fleetwood Mac). Allow me to introduce Clive Pursehouse.”

Pursehouse began by saying “cool” starts with Miles Davis. Then there was Camus. “Cool is aloof. It resides on the fringe.” Finally a description that applies to Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth. “Cool is aspirational – It has an elusive character we find attractive.” Then like André 3000, “wine needs cool voices and cool critics. Cool is coming and it can’t be stopped.” Lastly, The Who because “the kids are alright, meaning it’s time to partner with cool, young voices who will celebrate edginess, low alcohol, fresh fruit and minerality. “The loneliness epidemic is real,” reminded Pursehouse, “and wine can be the healer, can bring people together and make things better.”

Session Two

“Eugene Mlynczyk is national sales manager and fine wine ambassador for Principle Fine Wines, the luxury team within Arterra Wines, Canada. He attended Stanford University in the 1980s, majored in art and earned a Master of Fine Arts degree in Painting from Indiana University. Eugene earned the title of Master of Wine in 2015 and I will always remember a memorable trip spent with him at Mondavi in 2017. Session Two is titled Sparkling Chardonnay – No Occasion Required. Please welcome moderator and Master of Wine Eugene Mlynczyk.”

“The world can’t get enough bubbles and chardonnay is at the heart of the world’s finest sparkling wines.”

Session Three

“Dr. Jennifer Kelly PhD has been a Scientist in Oenology at Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute since May of 2023. I had the pleasure of sitting on the 2024 Experts’ Tasting Panel with Dr. Kelly who brought a much needed scientist’s perspective to assessing Niagara wines in a room with nine winemakers, one sommelier and one journalist. Hanging around Jen certainly helped me to trust the science. I think you will all be intrigued by Jennifer’s approach and moderation for session three called Chardonnay’s Coming of Age – A Retrospective. Please welcome Dr. Kelly.”

School of Cool squadra; Josh Horton (Lightfoot & Wolfville), Marty Werner (MW Wines), Ben Minaker (Andrew Peller) and Dr. Jennifer Kelly (CCOVI)

“This has been a true pleasure for me, to be a part of being a messenger for cool chardonnay. I am grateful for the opportunity. To the i4C committee, Trisha and her unbelievable team, our terrific AV guys and the White Oaks staff. Bravo. Thank you to Clive for leading us into cool territory with a refreshing approach. I loved the image of Kim Gordon but personally Clive I would have chosen Tina Weymouth or Kim Deal – but we can argue that out later. Kudos to our three session moderators, Clive, Eugene and Jennifer. Your time and attention is seriously appreciated. To all our panelists, your insights are what we come for and to learn anew each and every year at the School of Cool. And to all of you for being here, I hope there was something here for everyone and we’d love to see you back next year. Remember, Chardonnay is never too cool for school. Just outside the doors you will find all the chardonnay available at a walk around tasting which is scheduled to last until 6:15 pm. Happy tasting and thank you all for coming and see you again in 2026!”

Godello tasted and has reviewed 80 wines during the four-day conference; At the School of Cool; In the White Oaks media room set up by the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario team led by Andrea Peters; At visits to Cave Spring with Gabriel Demarco and Malivoire with Shiraz Mottiar; An evening at Ravine Vineyard with Jeff Moote of Divergence Wines, Jonas Newman and Marlise Ponzo of The Grange of Prince Edward, Chris Thompson and Stephen Del Degan of Volta Estate Winery and Ron Giesbrecht from Wending Home Estate Vineyards & Winery; Lunch at Black Bank Hill with Taylor Emerson, Jonathan McLean and Meg McGrath; At the evening events held at Friday Night Flights, Niagara District Airport, Niagara-on-the-Lake and at Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting and Dinner at The Riverbend Inn, Niagara-on-the-Lake. Here are the notes.

The Sparkling

Blomidon Brut Réserve NV, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Next year and disgorgement, same five years on lees for Blomidon’s signature sparkling wine and now more depth. Once again time is the impetus (and requiem) to see results, both of which have manifested into a bubble of greater charge than so many peers. Mainly chardonnay from that strip of land running up from the Minas Basin and jutting through the Bay of Fundy. Depth yes and also a low rumble of botanicals that make this a most agreeable sapid sparkling wine from Nova Scotia, like a cool night that follows a warm day. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Put to bottle in 2019 and so five years on lees ain’t nothing to develop complexities, eccentricities and potential variability. This pour comes out of sound and vision, disgorged in March of 2024, set to be released in the early Fall. Makes great use of 2016 and 2017 fruit, plus a small amount of the frost vintage 2018. Youthful, appropriately Blomidon Peninsula/Annapolis Valley tightly wound and in a way very chardonnay, though not glaringly so. “For us this is the future for non-vintage,” explains Simon Rafuse, “and to save the cooler vintages for Blanc de Blancs.” It’s a reverse engineering kind of approach. Simply put, in cooler vintages you can’t push wines through malolactic and so chardonnay is best purposed for sparkling when acids are high and pH levels are low.” Like 2011, but not 2010 and Rafuse adds that “the problem is you have to wait many years to see the results. But it’s worth it because they are really good.” True that. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

The Adam Steps, Niagara Escarpment

Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs NV, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Over the course of tasting the non-vintage Blanc de Blancs over 13 years it is noted how the chardonnay bubbles have evolved yet stayed the course and ultimately improved. From strength to strength with a wine that now bears the stamp and waves the banner for cool climate sparkling wine made with its most essential grape. The team has struck balance for a wine to be used, enjoyed, employed and celebrated all the bloody time. Simply put “ripe fruit and acid structure” said by by winemaker Gabriel Demarco, “putting in accumulated knowledge to recognize a place.” Which by the way includes 50 percent clone 777 chardonnay musqué originally built into the program by OG winemaker Angelo Pavan. Drink 2025-2030. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

It matters not whether this Beamsville Bench Blanc de Blancs is p[riced at $24.95 or $32.95 because it still represents the finest Ontario value in chardonnay sparkling wine. Bar none. Why trust your hard-earned, looking to celebrate or drink bubbles on a Tuesday dollars on anything else. Last tasted November 2024. Classic, sharp, intense and ideal. A ripper, “and I love that” says Stephen Gash. Dry as the desert in such a playfully proverbial way. Scintillant extraordinaire. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024 and November 2024

For the first time in quite some time the next look at the Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs is bang on one year later and so yes, freshness is the thing. Crisp and crunchy, stylistically so consistent and really set up to act as the dictionary entry for chardonnay as sparkling wine out of Niagara. It’s just so spot on, high in energy and exacting for style, place and estate. Tasted November 2023

Sees a minimum 30 months on lees ahead of disgorging and this chardonnay was likely sprung in the Spring of 2022 with a good dose of 2019 fruit layered within. In other words a true-blue varietal vintage to espouse the latest virtues and expound upon the great elevator in Niagara Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. Never disappoints and continues to rise, surge ahead, power forward and capture necessary tension. The offset here is more botanical tonic and weight. A new complexity. Tasted November 2022

It seems every three years is the interval for reviewing this arch-classic Ontario sparkling wine but be assured that the time in between actually drinking this fine Niagara wine is a much tighter and repetitive proposition. Terrific balance accorded and afforded from this latest cuvée with equal and opposing trips switched on by yeast and lemon, ginger and tea. Good toasty bubble for any and all toasts, plus innocuous glasses for drinking in between. Tasted October 2020

Angelo Pavan and Cave Spring sure do love to fashion a toasty sparkling chardonnay. Still in the biscuity, flinty and textured Champagne vein though really far from the last B de B tasted back in May 2014. No longer a case of fruit from in and around the 2008 vintage it would have to be the cool as lightning 2011 by my calculations with likely some warm and rich 2012 fruit. The relationship delivers the best of all worlds; tart, bright acidity and linear functionality with creamy, rich orchard and stone fruit, generous and round. All together now. Tasted September 2017

Today a fine misty Blancs, looking very much the coppery, crisp slice of apple it need be. Slate stone tone directive, grapefruit very much in play. A slice of tart key lime pie. Tasted July 2014

From my earlier May 2014 note: The freshest style of the #ONfizz B de B flight. Fruit, escarpment bench stone layering, richesse, biscuits and toast are all in. Acidity meets complexity

From my earlier, December 2012 note: Sees no malolactic fermentation and sits at the top end of dry (12-14 dosage). Most of the fruit is 2008, despite the NV designation. A soda fountain of argon and nitrogen bunsens forth through clean lines and carries an entire cider house orchard of Spartan apple. This one certainly hints at Champagne-like characteristics, of brioche and toast. The apples never relent

Cave Spring CSV Blanc De Blancs Natural Brut 2017, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

The chardonnay scintillant for a toasty style of Blanc de Blancs in pointed appeal. Must be 80-plus months on the lees for this disgorgement and a bubble as fresh as the day it was conceived. Controlled or let’s say restrained excitement, vertical, a sparkling wine of backbone without hitch or bend, taut though generous of flavour. In a terrific place right here and now. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Home (Cave Spring Vineyard) which means old chardonnay vines for Blanc de Blancs with added human experience to set up for top regional excellence. This from the upside down vintage which meant that chardonnay ripening was not the same as it ever was and so come here expecting something different. In fact the 2017 takes a turn for the toasty and excitable, into tart and scintillant territory for B de B of a singular style. Even for the most consistent sparkling wine house of them all but all things being equal this Beamsville Bench bubble creates a new fashion all its own. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted November 2024

Divergence Blanc De Blancs Hughes Vineyard 2020, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Made from a place “of big skies and lots of sunshine,” tells winemaker Jeff Moote and that is why he chose the double “L’ to make his inaugural sparkling wine. The clay-loam-till with a strain of limestone delivers richness for chardonnay and into sparkling wine. Eight months further, seemingly the same disgorgement (October 2024) and a slight exaggeration of the toasty-autolytic notes, but now with more of a soft creamed centre. Orange flavour now coming through, perhaps owing to that CLT terroir. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Small production of less than 600 cases for a 100 percent chardonnay from the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation’s Hughes Vineyard. A whole cluster pressed, cuvée juice only used and the base wine barrel fermented in neutral French wood where it is aged six months on lees. Follows with 42 months en tirage and just two g/L of sugar added. Essentially dry and in the scintillant style for Blanc de Blancs, screaming grape and acidity, accented by dried herbs and orchard fruit. In a serious vein, not what could be described as generous and conversely needing bottle time to settle into its parched and piqued skin. A bit severe and this from a warm vintage. Intensity is all in. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted November 2024

Dobbin Estate Brut Blanc De Blancs, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

The newest and ambitious chardonnay in the Dobbin project is Blanc de Blancs, Brut in style and non-vintage. Perfumed and chock full of relatively ripe chardonnay flavours, accessible and immediately enjoyable. It should likely be surmised that subsequent releases will have seen longer lees aging time with this shedding the feel of 30-36 months. No doubt strikes an almost perfectly equanimous balance between sugars and acids in the 7-ish g/L range. Not yet developed into the ambient, enigmatic and complex sparkling wine it is detailed and destined to become – yet there is elegance, softness and charm in this (presumably first) issue. Smells, tastes and feels like celebration. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jackson Triggs Niagara Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2018, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

The 14th vintage of this silver medal winner at the 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada and a unique Brut made in an ulterior intensified fruit style. An entourage of a bubble, a word that can translate as “surroundings” and the concentration of chardonnay emotions meeting flavours speaks to a grand place on the Niagara Peninsula. Entourage is half and half chardonnay plus pinot noir with two percent pinot meunier. Tastes like a mouthful of minerals with a dusting of sugar dosage and a shot of botany, a.k.a. tonic at the finish. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lailey Stonebridge Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

Classically composed and delineated Brut Rosé blessed by top quality fruit, a strawberries in cream softness transposed against a frothy bubble of vitality and airiness. Tons of flavour here, from the red berries through savoury elements inductive of leafy chicory greens and nettles. A beautiful bitterness juxtaposed against reliable dosage, harmonious while still expressive of individual parts. Trusted and effective, on the road to knowledge and future finer results. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A chardonnay purposed grown and cropped then “pinkified” with just two or three percent Lailey zweigelt for what it truly an original look at Niagara sparkling wine. Picked on September 12th and 13th with just a bit left for still wine and perfectly ahead of the September rains. Recently disgorged (after approximately 20 months on lees) and of a season that reminds Ann Sperling of 2006. Very phenolic vintage of high caste character, just not the most intensity and power. Crunchy like the other ’21 Rosés, salty and as mentioned, quite phenolic. Not an autolytic fizz but definitely one that combines precision with pleasure. Just a tweak of tannin at the finish. There are 83 cases made and the wine will be released in a few months. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted April 2023

The team from Maison du Vigneron

La Maison Du Vigneron Crémant Du Jura Marcel Cabelier NV, Jura, France

Truly Jura, no matter whether the chardonnay is made into still or sparkling wine, with the unmistakable earthenware aspect speaking vividly to terroir. This may be non-vintage but there just feels to be a lot of sunshine accumulated into this fruit and so the orchard is well represented in the chardonnay bubble. Lower acidity (at 4.15 g/L) and the creamy palate is as generous as they come. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut 2019, Nova Scotia

Surely more richness from the 2019 Brut and still the cool interpretation of the Annapolis Valley’s maritime climate. You must consider this amazement of success from a place that resides at the furthest edge of viticultural promise. “It’s challenging” says Josh Horton, “and we’re starting to see the odd hot vintage” which this wine somehow expresses. “Chardonnay checks all the boxes for us, acidity, structure, complexity and versatility, not mention walking right through a winter with a polar vortex.” Brut 2019 is fleshier and balanced, ripe and zesty. Yes, angularity can be beautiful. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Chardonnay Musqué Spritz (In Can) 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario (250ml)

Perhaps the first Ontario chardonnay musqué packaged in a can, experimental, light, minimally frothy, also with sweetness and floral. A semi-sparkling wine of arrested fermentation at nine percent alcohol with 40 g/L of residual sugar. Easy drinking, like juice with some alcohol, almost moscato d’Asti stylistically speaking. Candied, of fuzzy peach and ginger for adults only. Fun stuff from winemaker Elisa Mazzi and quenching for what gets you hot. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Bisous Brut 2012, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Tiraged in 2013, of 60 pinot noir and 30 chardonnay for what was at the time just winemaker shiraz mottiar’s third kick at the sparkling can. Fermented in older barrels and aged 10 years on the lees. Oxidative and gingered, full cupboard of exotic spices. Dynamic, pulsating, pretty dynamite experimental bubble. Only 20 bottles made. First release of Bisous was 2016. Make more of this shiraz. That’s an order. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4c, July 2025

Malivoire Bisous Brut NV, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Of 70-ish chardonnay with 30-ish pinot noir disgorged in May 2023 and so think about fruit from 2019 which means a top sparkling vintage because neither fruit nor acidity saw any compromise. Nearly dry with just 2 g/L of dosage, a negligible number that only helps to coax out the natural sweetness in the wine. Quintessential house bubble for anyone who seeks and can see the top value (along with Cave Spring) in a $30-35 traditional method Ontario sparkling wine. Drink 2025-2028. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Having recently tasted Bisous just four months ago you might think there would be no change when in fact things have. Tension is now juxtaposed by a truly creamy feel on the palate and so next tasting is next level gained. Bisous is now a perfect foil for tortellini and crispy pancetta with a drizzle of basil infused oil and some aged pecorino. Please. Tasted November 2024

Not simple. Fine and mighty toast, a mix of autolysis and oxidative minutia, full-flavoured and complex, of orchard plus stone fruit and more than just chardonnay. Feels like some pinot noir mixed in and the blend creates a terrific variegate experience. Tasted blind at i4C School of Cool July 2024

Good and simple if also plenty but very simple. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Moillard Prestige Blanc De Blancs 2021, Crémant De Bourgogne AOC, France

Crémant de Bourgogne labeled as Blanc de Blancs, of fruit left to ripen a bit longer than many, in maintenance of acidity though furthest from the racy style. Richness incarnate for chardonnay in sparkling clothing. Nothing searing about this one and truly accessible. Spends 24 months on lees with 6 g/L of dosage. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Ravine Vineyard Brut NV, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

There is a real depth behind this Ravine Brut, packed with flavour and what now feels like deeper concentration than just over a year ago. A huge style, classically blended and true to its roots, but also an extension from what others have done as they came before. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Quiet and demure sparkling wine made from a mix of 60 percent chardonnay and (40) pinot noir for a pretty and soft example. Feels like a relatively short to mid-term time on lees, Considered blanc de noirs despite its lean to the white side and while the custardy lemon-osity sprinkled by white pepper runs high it is the smooth softness that dictates the order of this wine. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Charlotte Hickey and and Suzanne Janke, Stratus Vineyards

Stratus Blanc De Blancs 2016, VQA Niagara-on the Lake, Ontario

Eight months further on lees, now deeper meaning, more complex behaviour and a compounding of the autolytic meets mature flavours in full concentric abound. Quite savoury now, more herbal than botanical and like a scape pesto with cilantro, best with fish, boiled fingerling potato, or grilled flank steak. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Still noting the grip and aromatic compaction due to high level phenolics, a trenchant autolytic intention and a level of seriousness in the realm of Blanc de Blancs. Hides some aspect of chardonnay fruit and also texture but the elemental quotidian is impressive to say the least. Not an elastic B de B, nor is it a scintillant per se but something other, something mature, developed and of the earth. Singular in that regard. Tasted November 2024

Some phenolic grip on this blanc de blancs takes chardonnay into a metallic and distillate place. The base wines involved were likely pressed for success and as such have collectively adjudicated, settled and come to this place. If it seems at present to lack some tension there is clearly function and the shrouding of flavours righteously complex. Notably autolytic and may leave some wondering when the energy will revive. Which it will because the stuffing and cunning will most certainly raise the bar and encourage a realizing of potential. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind at NWAC2023, June 2023

Vanessa McKean, Adamo Estate

Chardonnay

Adamo Sogno Chardonnay Unoaked Lore Vineyard 2023, VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario

From the 1980s planted Four Mile Creek Lore Vineyard with some chardonnay musqué involved to consistently add a floral muskiness. No wood and now quite the experienced fresh and layered chardonnay in the hands of winemaker Vanessa McKean. A pyramid of activity because of a change by way of employing three ferments and three different yeast strains to see what complex results might result. Lees does the yeoman work without needing to blender pulse the fruit, but just to simply act as catalyst for the transference from vineyard to glass. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at 14C, July 2025

Bachelder Chardonnay Wismer-Foxcroft Parcelle Nord 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Fascinating to get a nose into Wismer-Foxcroft not quite a year but easily eight or nine months later. A Toussaint forward moment for chardonnay still maintaining its touch with the flinty beginnings and the storied act of fleshing out is corroborated today. Late July is a terrific time to re-taste a November Bachelder release of the previous year. This showing drives the point and marks an important moment on the curve. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Does not get more knowable or established for Bench chardonnay than the Foxcroft block in Wismer’s expansive vineyard and who but Thomas Bachelder knows this place as well as anyone. A similar story to Wismer Parke with pinot noir in that this vintage just somehow feels like the culmination of a decade-plus worth of experience. Wismer-Foxcroft 2022 is a truly mature and adult version of its reliable self, seamless, punctual and responsible. Substantial, harmonious and structured. All of the above. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024

Beare Green Winery Chardonnay Clonal Blend 2023, Surrey, England

Taylor Emerson, Black Bank Hill and Simon Rafuse, Blomidon Winery

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Runway 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

A reminder that the name is an homage to service people and the part the property played in the First World War. All the land from here to the lake was an aerodrome and a runway ran right through the field along Sanna Rd. Now showing its lactic-citrus angle without any give or relent to high voltage acid backbone. Come to think of it there is just something Tantalus chardonnay about this ’23 chardonnay in how it rises vertical, controlled within its intensity and built to travel forward. There could very well be four to six years remaining in this singular high wattage way. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Gotta be the first chardonnay out of the gates from the 2023 vintage and if this cracker example is any indication of what’s coming then hold on to your senses. Recently bottled and even with an early (September) pick this saw less than 10 months of aging, but the mix of indelible lees and high voltage (8.5 g/L) total acidity put this in scintillant, dare it be said Blanc de Blancs styled territory. So very different to the Runway White (blend) because of its intensity but also warmth at 13.8 alcohol, not quite torridity, but a white peppery scorch nonetheless. Wild and exciting shift from vintner Taylor Emerson and winemaker Jonathan McLean. Will be hard to wait and anticipate what the next level chardonnay turns out to be. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Warm vintage for Lincoln Lakeshore chardonnay fruit, layers more compressed, aromatics to flavours, resulting in a fullness of mouthfeel quite opposite to 2021 and apposite to the situation. Just the right mathematical problem is written should reduction keeps the freshness and vitality in motion. That said there is warmth and some development, already showing maturity yet time will graciously be kind, at least for a spell and behold a top tier pairing wine is born. Foie Gras with Membrillo and Sherry Vinegar anyone? Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

With Twenty Mile Bench fruit in the rear-view mirror Black Bank begins their estate journey with Lincoln Lakeshore fruit accepting and abiding by barrel aging with a precociousness that belies its youthful experience. This from a less than heat unit cumulate vintage and still the body of this 2021 is fleshy and impressive, its elastic length dutiful in helping fruit, acid and texture all come together as one. Should drink beautifully for a few more years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Classic styling for chardonnay, from a winemaking perspective more so than the viognier and also the reds in the Black Bank portfolio. Neither reductive nor oxidative, reactive nor submissive, obsequious nor domineering. No risks taken, nor aversions neither. Buttery yet with good acids, natural sweetness and also wood spice. Right there in that space between, still a wine for its makers to continue figuring out, in terms of wishes and direction. For now a glass in hand is a good one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Winemaker Jonathan McLean, Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Wingfield 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Top end chardonnay for Black Bank Hill in the Wingfield section of the Wismer Vineyard, riper and of a concentration that celebrates a vintage, especially now that full integration has come about. The stylized and chic feel is fuller than 2018 and more than a shade less than 2019, with no imminent sign of maturity. But these are oranges as compared to apples even though they come from cousin plots within the larger vineyard. And so Wingfield brings everything to the table; concentration, backbone, linearity, energy and acids wrapping it all up in a fine sharp bow. Top tier chardonnay right here for lovers of the Okanagan, Sonoma, Napa and Ontario, not necessarily in that order. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Foxcroft 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

The 2019 Foxcroft has matured faster than the 2018 and now shows some caramel with more obvious vanilla by way of its conceptual French wood styling. Has done its time, run amok, gone lactic, now softened and finishing its run. Drink 2025. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Foxcroft 2018, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Fruit was sourced from Foxcroft within Wismer Vineyard for the first chardonnay made at the time Black Bank Hill was a virtual winery. The wines were made by Adam Lowry at Cloudsley Cellars and knowledge is power in knowing what a seriously good vintage it was for chardonnay. Age able as well with 2018 persistently fresh, piqued, energetic and thriving. Might have been reductive and tight to begin but time has been generous and kind for Foxcroft 2018 to arrive at this ideal moment in time. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Blomidon Reserve Chardonnay 2022, Nova Scotia

Hard to find more chardonnay substance and texture than in Reserve 2022 from winemaker Simon Rafuse at Blomidon. Spiced piques, crunchy apple bites, barrel blanketing and fruit involved at all points for what define the character of this wine. More about flavour than aroma, not out of character for chardonnay but beyond fruit comes sea air and the crushed shells of fossils. There is a Bourgogne feeling gained but not an old school one. Close your eyes and imagine young, modern and inspired from the Motherland. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A chardonnay that shows how in the context of a flight of eight wines just how different Canadian chardonnay will be from one to the next. Which also means from one province through to another. Juicy, orchard juiced fruity and simple, if a fine coolest climate expression from the grape to gift high energy character, belied by easy and accessible drinking. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted blind at NWACs, June 2025

Catena Chardonnay High Mountain Vines, Sustainable 2023, Valle De Uco, Mendoza, Argentina

A chardonnay of four sites, Agrelo (950m), Villa Bastías (1,120), Gualtallary (1,450) and El Cepillo (1,090). Classic Catena, of respectfully farmed fruit to optimum ripenesses, phenolics included and ease of barrel blanketing to oxygenate and elevate. Partial (60 percent) malolactic because why compromise acidity when you’re making mountain chardonnay? A higher level of affordable chardonnay prepared and meant for all, of fullness in concentration and experience to get things balanced and just right. Another unmitigated success, delivered without surprise. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Catena Chardonnay 2019, Mendoza, Argentina

Well settled, buttery warmth and a nut butter oiliness having entered the arena of delicious and snackable. Drink up although there are two more years available in this state. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

With every passing vintage the solar radiation affecting high altitude vines increases and dramatizes the gainful effect of Argentina’s darling value-priced chardonnay. It has come to this. A wine of great concentration, generous of fruit and equipped with the tightest spiral of complexity and then, unwind. That the winemakers have figured out how to dial in and expound upon an already well figured out scheme is nothing short of outstanding. Do not dismiss this as a regular, easy to knock back $20 white wine. The substance and the fanning out of notes and pleasures is just too much to simplify, no matter the quantity of output. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted January 2021

Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 1995, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Made by Angelo Pavan and we are drinking the last drops of this wine. Picked at 22 Brix in 1995! And yes the wine is showing beautifully. Spiced and piquing with spiciness on the tip of the palate from a chardonnay that was so perfectly oxidative from the beginning with just the right amount of skin contact to see it age remarkably for 30 years. Magic. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Kaylee Barss, Checkmate Winery

Checkmate Chardonnay Fool’s Mate 2020, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Hard to find a fuller, more substantial and all in chardonnay than the Fool’s Mate, but also one with this much finesse, charm and grace. Ridiculously pleasing and dealing in immediate gratification, Checkmate’s 2020 has now settled into its skin to be the kind of wine that literally makes you sigh. So much textural fabric and Okanagan essence from a top-tier focused, sophisticated, considered and flawlessly executed chardonnay. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Cloudsley Cellars Chardonnay Foxcroft Vineyard 2023, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

For 2023 winemaker Matt Smith and proprietor Adam Lowry take their Foxcroft chardonnay to another level. The integration of sharply dressed orchard fruit in barrel clothing is a suave and handsome design, look and feel. This stands upright, expresses varietal linearity and is just about as fit and taut a Foxcroft as there has ever been. Essential Wismer Twenty Mile Bench chardonnay, focused and got so right. Raises the bar and ceiling for estate and vineyard. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Vaudevey Premier Cru 2022, AC Bourgogne, France

Terrifically balanced, harmonious and gracious Chablis for 2022 from Les Vaudevey. A Left Bank beauty with joyous acidity that lifts this Premier Cru up to a place where eager palates will find bliss in chardonnay. Truly a factor of kimmeridgian soil and soul, seamlessly integrated, layered and also elastic in mouthfeel. Spot on with persistent aging potential. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

The word precise is often used to describe Chablis and many other global chardonnays, sometimes gratuitously but here perfectly applies to the Laroche Vaudeyey. Les VdV ’22 is focused to a virtue with its equality, equanimity and equilibrium from start to finish. A lexical entry to figure out the crux and relationship between cru and village. Tasted a second time, July 2024

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Tradition 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

“We’re growing the wine and not really making it in the cellar. It’s really challenging, you have to be proactive and also reactive on a vine by vine basis.” The words of winemaker Kelly Mason. From leaf thinning to green harvest and hopefully at the right time, all within the parameters of vintage variation. “Like being the pit crew and driver at the same time.” From the Lincoln Lakeshore vineyard for a ’23 Tradition leaner than some other years, a linear drive with a platinum gold hue and mineral feel. Less than 20 percent new wood, no stirring, “out to barrel and leave it to sit.” Ever so slightly acetic, well within reason and with a pinch of natural chardonnay sweetness. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Béton 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

A unique Bench chardonnay because the fruit has all been taken from the 2009 planting in the Felseck Vineyard. The younger vines are perfectly suited to this Béton’s raising, as in the label’s meaning which is 10 months in concrete for briny and über fresh chardonnay with its own kind of bite. Also tension with no wood to attract attention from the sharp, pointed and direct display of chardonnay. The middle is creamy, that much is true and the juxtaposition makes for an open invitation to imbibe. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Estate Organic 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Youngest and freshest of Ontario’s 2023 chardonnay aged and then aged further in bottle for what should be this precise release point. Any earlier and it might have played hard to get, any later and freshness would not be this pitch perfect. Assemble a group of wine lovers without extensive cool climate experience or bring this on the road and serve it to consumers beyond these borders for what will be a cool chardonnay teaching moment at a time in history when these wines can turn even the most ardent disbeliever. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2013, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Seduction from the word go, nose to glass and if surprise well this could be forgiven considering this is an 11-plus year-old chardonnay from the Beamsville Bench. Then again in 2013 winemaker Marlize Beyers, Hidden Bench and many Bench wineries were already keenly aware of how to make high quality and also structured chardonnay. This wine has drifted slowly and comfortably into its ripe maturity at an age with beauty and of respect. Special is the understatement. FYI for corks nerds out there the 2013 was bottled under Diam-10. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

A best of both worlds Chardonnay; indicative of the giving vintage (in quality, not quantity, prestige, not prosper) and an Estate, house style with some cosmetics to enhance the consequence. Really typifies and explains what a Marlize Beyers Chardonnay is. Elegant, stylish, with perfect skin, tones, understated beauty and the soft vernacular of few yet precise words. The texture and feel of this Chardonnay is downy, lacey and so very understated. You simply can’t take your eyes off its charms and your palate away from its soft feel. A wine of character and poise. Drink 2015-2020. Tasted August 2015

Jennifer Carter, JoieFarm

Joiefarm Chardonnay En Famille Reserve 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

En Famille is the line of signature Joie wines that define, but also distinguish a family’s and team’s fulfillment for everything they’ve accomplished. All in the family celebrates a history and the present, here with chardonnay from a terrific vintage that takes every binate advantage given. Is this not the epitome of a Naramata season, to induce seduction, generosity and philanthropy. Gives and then gives some more, like ripe stone and orchard fruit at peak ripeness, the subtlety of barrel and fineness of acidity. The sweetest kind and thing that could be, natural, at hand to induce consequential pleasure and gratification. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Joiefarm Winery Chardonnay Con Vida Vineyard 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

The pinnacle of En Famille for chardonnay drills deeper into place with Con Vida Vineyard, meaning “alive” or “with life,” a term of endearment to celebrate a piece within the greater good. Winemaker Richard Charnock takes chardonnay to the next level, particularly in amplitude and opulence for the kind of wine no mere mortal could resist, Or deny its succulence and generosity. Thankfully the sweetness and elasticity of acidity extends the character, fortune and play before giving way to warmth, a buttery brioche-ness and fluid forward motion extended well into the lingering minutes of a palate’s perception. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Claystone Terrace 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Claystone for 2022 chardonnay notes reductive character in a restrained and fruit encapsulated manner. Separates itself from Jordan Village through more varietal and place specifics with higher aromatic pitch and pinpointed flavours to make you think and feel the sickle curved nook on a plateau aboard the Twenty Mile Bench. Terrace that is, where clay and decomposed stone are the impetus for chardonnay of an identified speciality, coaxed and brought to life by Bachelder and team. Sharp and focused with the earth of a vintage packing its pockets and fleshing out its fruit. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

If anyone were to ask, what does a chardonnay from Le Clos Jordanne taste like, the answer would be this. This 2022 Claystone is exactly it, a chardonnay of selection from a specific block, a development of fruit hung to optimize aromas, favours and intangibles, a wealth wrought of barrel choices made to accentuate all the fresh meeting mature nuances of Twenty Mile Bench chardonnay. Top stuff at eye level shelf for this sku in the hands of three skilled wine crafters that make Niagara proud. Phillip Brown, Kerri Crawford and the monk himself, Thomas Bachelder. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Chardonnay Ancienne Wild Ferment 2021, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

One nose into Ancienne 2021 and you know the change has come. The first epoch of evolution now paves the way for another, the last one having developed and experienced over the past eight years, now come to full fruition. The new and improved Ancienne will one day beget a decades old chardonnay that truly defines its ancient name, looks to its past and reflects on what has been accomplished. As we will do in kind, to have believed everything was possible and was meant to be. This ’21 owes its DNA to place and previous vintages but there is are new parameters of warmth, richness and ripeness, aspects now present in more vintages than not, no matter the climate extremes and obstacles that are want to diminish quantities. My goodness what great chardonnay is being made on such a consistent basis by a winemaker as present and confident as Josh Horton. The underlay of Fundy spray saltiness in the heart of juiced and zested lemon is an irresistible mix for chardonnay. They who take this wine’s subtleties and potential for granted are missing the point. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Shiraz Mottiar in his home vineyard

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

From Shiraz Mottiar’s home vineyard and the wet vintage, moderately cool and one of those times that fruit dropping and rigorous sorting could and would lead to great chardonnay. That is this, taut and opening slowly, incrementally, in no hurry, nearly yet still not ready to go. Not the open flower yet and will be soon when fleshier times will fill the glass. A newfound yes to 2021. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

“A disaster (yet high volume, up 30 percent) vintage but I’m really happy what came from there,” admits winemaker Elisa Mazzi. No matter the rain and fog because there is flesh and substance in the ’21 from Shiraz Mottiar’s vineyard. Not a fully natural fermentation with some yeasts used but also not a full malolactic fermentation. Stopped halfway, winemaking on numbers instead of taste so to speak. Some wet concrete notes, washed hard cheese rind and surely different for a Malivoire chardonnay, leaner and linear but ready as ever to go out and please. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Pronounced flintiness from 2018, “it’s just vintage,” says Shiraz Mottiar and it lends a Beamsvile-ness to chardonnay, not unlike 2011 but ’18 was warmer. Translates to an added layer of richness with just the right amount of wood felt at this six-plus year stage. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Intensely youthful chardonnay is a scent to behold, especially from a vineyard block picked on the high-low dichotomy of acid and pH then naturally fermented with bunches intact. I wonder if the barrel time was extended slightly because of the promise of 2018 and that may add to the taut nature of this Mottiar. That said there is no lack of freshness or shortage of cool climate bite. After all, this is chardonnay that speaks the vernacular of stoicism, structure and length. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted October 2020

Rebecca Yates-Campbell and Whiney Collins, Advini (Maison Champy and Domaine Laroche)

Maison Champy Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2023, Bourgogne AOC, France

The appellation and terroir must direct a classic movement in chardonnay and Champy ensures its orchestration finds what we are all looking for. That would be lighter, mineral-acid freshness from a large local landholder with more cards than many to mix, match and most importantly adapt. Organics and the essential ideal of sustainability translate into a chardonnay that is truly technically proficient to the edge of perfection. Translates terroir, talking points and acumen into great chardonnay. One of innovation for timelessness. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Organized Crime Chardonnay Limestone Block 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Sharp value chardonnay cut from stone and to deliver top quality varietal goods from a fantastic Beamsville Bench terroir. Crisp as it gets for a 2022 Bench chardonnay, sweetly herbal, crispy and taut yet with no shortage of fluidity and flesh. Distinct and still recognizable for grape and place with wood the pique in spice at the tip and also back end of the palate. Acidity fills the voluminous space between. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Organized Crime Chardonnay Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Higher end and inviting pinpointed cuvée from the cooler and wetter if humid vintage to determine ultra specific chardonnay. In a way surprisingly soft with a cream-centred mid-palate, pH elevated and acidity mild. The truth is this feels and drinks like a “Reserve” style of Ontario chardonnay with no questioning the quality of fruit ripeness, purity and wood. Comes together nicely and still drinks with purpose, though these immediately arriving years will see a waning of freshness. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Rosehall Run JCR Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard 2017, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Were you to say upfront that this was a Prince Edward County chardonnay from 2017 it would not be believed. Still cracker energy and freshness, crispy and crunchy character and blessed County beauty. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

As a follow-up to the warmth and phenolic heights of 2016 you’ll have to imagine a meandering through zig-zagging directions for ’17. Despite the ups, downs and ups again this chardonnay has indeed found its way, charming us with insights and how richness ensues. The surety of this fruit and this composure ensures and enriches the great sleeper County chardonnay that continues to explain the concept of cool climate viticulture done right. It’s not really all that reductive but it is protective and crafted with indefatigable structure in surround of high quality ingredients. Another winner from Dan Sullivan. Drink 2019-2023. Tasted June 2019 and May 2020

Stratus Chardonnay Unfiltered And Bottled With Lees 2023, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario

The Stratus chardonnay lees program is simply fascinating. Options, possibilities and abilities learned have developed and been banked for hits that keep on coming, but what is most striking about the 2023 unfiltered is how perfectly clean it is. Like you would never know there were significant lees bottled and so here there feels like a return or in a sense a throwback to chardonnay from say 2012. Of a clarity, purity and acceptance of barrel in proper tones and with effortless ease. The agriculture is everything anyway, so to be sure a chardonnay like this will improve and be sure to bless a consumer with the last vintage produced being the best. Which means 2023. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Chardonnay Resolution 2022, Tasmania, Australia

Man does this smell like Tasmanian chardonnay, but what does that mean? Cool, for one thing, taut and tart with a Champagne profile minus the bubble. Also a chardonnay provided with a western rain shadow, a moderating body of water and north-facing sun capture for optimum ripening. Much of the fruit comes from the river that makes a moderating temperature effect horseshoed around the vineyard, that and 15 percent from the coastal vineyard. Like a bite into a strong green apple with satisfying juiciness and acidity. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Thirty Bench Chardonnay Small Lot 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

In a ripe and settled place, fruit over acidity and barrel, fresh in its persistence and pulpy by texture. Green apple bite and spice more than many, exaggerated from a cooler vintage for excitability, gastronomy and complexity. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

True to Bench chardonnay sprit and energy, standing upright, demanding to be noticed and in turn we are paying notice. A harvest of demand forces the team to focus and pay extra attention, to do everything possible for greater returns. Picking and sorting strategies finds the best available fruit to create something cool, gelid, succulent and shockingly Chablis like. In fact at 12.6 percent (low) alcohol this acts in a stoic and matter of fact way, without airs and confidently what it needs to be. Will not overwhelm any palate, nor will it takes any breath away. That said it should age longer than first anticipated. Last tasted twice in July 2024, including at at i4C

Small Lot just has to be the owner of the lowest of low alcohol number as it pertains to the Beamsville Bench and at 12.6 percent the conversion rate falls under the categorical auspices of magic. This is not a light chardonnay but it is a lithe, elastic and effusive one. Aromatically demure yet soft and almost caressing, without peppery (and sharp apple) bites or jolting in any way. The palate runs a similar course, gracing with soft and round flavours that are easy and stretched. Lovely and amenable 2021 here from Emma Garner and one to savour slowly, in a calm and tranquil setting. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Trius Showcase Chardonnay Wild Ferment Watching Tree Vineyard 2022, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario

Single vineyard, optimum fruit picked right at peak in a warm vintage and just the wild facts before barrel time rounds out the edges and corners. They still point and stand out with reductive style being the impetus for freshness and how this chardonnay will age, journey and thrive. There is a crunchy green apple quality, a flinty moment our two and fine lees as pure as ever. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Volta Estate Winery Chardonnay Unoaked 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

One of three Volta chardonnays, the second being barrel-aged and the third raised in (sandstone) amphora. Fruit comes from Hillier’s Ramirez Family Farm, at one time sourced by Lighthall Vineyards, a fun fact that indirectly forms a connection with new winemaker Chris Thompson who used to work at there. This steely chardonnay is stirred and closely mimics a Chablis perspective, youthful style that is with languid drift, elasticity, freshness and cool finishing spice. Acids are spot on for this ultra correct chardonnay. Drink 2025-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Volta Estate Winery Chardonnay Amphora Ramirez Family Vineyard 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

As with the first Volta chardonnay the source is Hillier’s Ramirez Farm but here the aging is done in French (sandstone) amphora-style vessels. A freshness does not merely drift but flies out in a way that rarely happens from these pots (when made with concrete or clay) and so the medium surely creates some sort of revolutionary housing. Purity incarnate and no salve drip or texture melted upon the palate makes this so bloody different. Highlights the fruit and not reduction while micro-oxygenation comes into effect in the neatest way. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Wending Home Chardonnay Estate Vineyards 2021, VQA Creek Shores, Ontario

First tasted 13 months ago and no shock to find this chardonnay right in the heart of its open window. The spice is melting and infiltrating every pore of this wine for pervasive seasoning and flavour. Just delicious at this stage. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Bit of a cool banana smoothie here, extracted and sweet though naturally so with that tropical spectrum feel, especially like pineapple. Chewy for chardonnay and the wood is very much there, finishing with a buttery swath pasted across the palate. A bit heavy handed (though not overdone) in terms of bâtonnage to effect honeycomb and creaminess, however those who like the style will do very well with this example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

With Jonas Newman, The Grange of Prince Edward

Other Whites

Divergence Wines Sauvignon Blanc Creek Road Vineyard 2023, VQA Four Mile Creek, Ontario

In the past Jeff Moote sourced his sauvignon blanc from Hughes Vineyard in Beamsville and this is the first from Creek Road near Virgil in the Four Mile Creek sub-zone. The vineyard may be most famous for cabernet franc but this white grape cousin makes for a fine, ripe and complex wine. Saw 20 hours of skin contact, enough to effect colour and texture but not enough to adhere in any unwanted way aboard the palate. There are notes of green fig and yellow peach from what is ostensibly tight, vaguely tannic and corporeally solid white wine. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at 14C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Sauvignon Blanc Newfield Block 2024, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

From vines planted in 2003 though never really ever made into a dry sauvignon blanc. Now in the hands of winemaker Jonas Newman that changes with a stirred yet no wood version, although Newman feels that could come into play sometime soon. “To make a more complex and sophisticated sauvignon blanc,” but the quality of this feels like there will need to be two. This ’24 is joyous and eye-opening stuff. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Pinot Gris Isabella Block + Northfield Block 2024, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Truly ABG, anything but grigio in dry, salty, crisp and enticing pinot gris. Gris for gris’ sake, solid, purposed and drinking effortlessly. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Gris 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Aromatic for gris with flowers, part fresh and part desiccated. Vaguely turbid with an acetic moment that distract from the purity of intended local pinot gris flavours. A bit troubled by its youthful style and perhaps it will “clean itself” up with a few to more to six months in bottle. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Melon 2024, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Fresh, ultra fruity and light style, decidedly void of long lees aging. Originally conceived and continues to be made for proprietor Martin Malivoire because this melon de bourgogne is exactly what he prefers for oysters. As will you because the 2024 delivers both substance and salinity, key ingredients in the pairing. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Melon De Bourgogne Demo Series 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

The ulterior methodology and stylistic for melon de bourgogne, here aged 22 months on the lees. No we have not walked up from the river to Nantes, but there is some fantasy in that regard. Salty and the feeling of wet concrete, so proper for oysters but frankly an exciting melon on its own. Flinty and still youthful. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Jimmy Smith, Beare Green Winery and Wine with Jimmy

The Reds

Beare Green Winery Pinot Noir Pulborough Cool Climate Clone 777 2023, Surrey, England

The Surrey project of Wine with Jimmy (Smith) comes from Pulborough, a tiny village where the fringe of cool climate viticulture is practiced and planted to pinot noir clone 777. Beare Green’s is a natural varietal treat with acetic meanderings and like the chardonnay, leanness is belied by its charm. Yes it is in fact acid tart and sax jazzy while also crunchy and intensely cherry sour. A ton of clash but the prospects and possibilities feel like a high ceilinged future awaits. The intrigue is great with much looking forward to watching this passion project grow. London and the world are calling. “J-a-zee zee, J-a-zed zed, J-a-zed zed, Jimmy Jazz.” Satta Massagana Jimmy. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Cave Spring winemaker Gabe Demarco speaking at the Adam Steps

Cave Spring Cabernet Franc CSV Estate Grown 2022, Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Warm vintage, a richness of fruit optimized from highest attention to farming and chosen right there in the field. In June no less because identifying blocks ahead of canopy management is key to drawing up the map for Cave Spring wines. CSV is the varietal meow, also with cabernet franc and while the ’22 carries deeper meaning there is no denying the sheer purity. Wood used generously is the requiem to elevate and extend the grip, spice, texture and potential of this wine. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Juicy, unfettered in terms of exuberance and yet finely restrained as cabernet franc because it pulls no gratuity, nor punches for that matter. Only a kiss of the barrel is felt and the proper herbaceous greens are noted, as they rightly should. Speaks to the Cave Spring Vineyard and the important farming adjustments made over these last few years by Gabe Demarco and team. The fruit is singing because their host vines are well loved. It’s as simple as that. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Cloudsley Cellars Pinot Noir 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Adam Lowy’s Twenty Mile Bench pinot noir really is the mirror into a vintage with its mix of vineyard fruit, lithe transparency and aromatic spicing of a season. That’s the thing – His pinot noir does not go into bottle without proper, correct and frankly spot on salt & pepper seasoning in order to coax out the truth of fruit. Its decisive resource is concentration and depth without unnecessary over-extraction or heft. Would say to drink this early in its tenure and also pour it to those who question the viability and comparability of Ontario pinot noir. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Grange Of Prince Edward Pinot Noir Aurelia 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Tart with an acetic edginess because of its raw energy and DIY ethic. Red fruit intensity, implosive, dangerous, rebellious and still workable. It is County pinot noir, the punk rock of Ontario’s varietal sound, purposefully shock chord driven and fast. Try to keep up. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

The golden one, Aurelia, from the Latin Aurelius and if you want to delve deeper, the name for Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, Roman emperor from 161 to 180. Even deeper still the character portrayed by Richard Harris in Gladiator. Also the top of the opus pinot noir at The Grange and what a golden one it surely is. Needs to be because it is bloody expensive but just 98 cases were made of a varietal harbinger that gets the full on spa treatment. Double sorted, first in the vineyard, then at the table. Whole cluster fermented, including carbonic for five days and then foot trodden. Ten days of délestage before being pressed off and blended to finish ferment in tank. Ages in the most expensive wood for 10 months, 33 percent new. Burgundy anyone? Yes this is the idea and the result is a pretty good approximation, all the while tended to by that County high life in acidity with a generous amount of volatile compound effect. Yet the fruit and that acidity are in cahoots, sweet, inviting and enlivening. At nearly $75 there is a whole lot of swagger, ambition and confidence but if money were no object I’d happily drink through a few bottles. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted December 2024

Grange Of Prince Edward Cabernet Franc Aurelia Series 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

With Jennifer Carter, JoieFarm

Joiefarm Winery Pinot Noir En Famille 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A treat to taste a signature JoieFarm pinot noir from a most rewarding Okanagan Valley – Naramata Bench vintage, especially under the auspices of the En Famille autograph. A true “farm” wine, emphasizing a connection between Naramata and these varietal wines. The ’22 brings fullness and generosity in a most familial and joyous way. Ripeness is just right there and softness ensues to ensure the highest level of drinkability for always and whenever. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Leaning Post Pinot Noir 2023, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

The NP pinot noir falls into the Leaning Post line wedged somewhere on the line between The Fifty and the single vineyard labels of Senchuk, Hemeris, Lowery and Grimsby Hillside Vineyard. What’s right and charming about 2023 is how it settles into our varietal psyche for a vintage neither as warm or concentred, while returning to varietal basics. This feels like 2009 or 2009, wines ripe and structured enough that in Ilya Senchuk’s hands that are able to please early yet surely age gracefully forward several years. There is purity and potential magic from vintages like this with no exception for one labeled as an LP pinot noir. Less than epic, but they can’t all be and my how good ’23 will be for years to come. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Lightfoot & Wolfville Pinot Noir Ancienne Wild Ferment 2021, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Feels like only yesterday when pinot noir planted, nurtured and made into wine at Lightfoot & Wolfville was born, but here we find this special Annapolis Valley example come upon a decade into its tenure. Things have changed in terms of ripeness, knowledge and experience, but still this is Nova Scotia wine. Unequivocally and beautifully, with tension and this rise of high tonality up high into a Fundy-Minas Basin air. The 2021 still rises but also settles in term of its tannin structure. This says drink away and be keenly aware of how time will dramatically change this pinot noir across all of its character; volatility, emotional well-being and spirit. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Shiraz Mottiar, Malivoire

Malivoire Gamay Small Lot 2023, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Some carbonic from 30 percent whole cluster gamay. Pretty tight, spot on, clean and correct gamay with ample concentration stopped short of density and so no noted chalkiness. Aromatic spice and Villages stylistic captured to represent keen varietal aspiration bred from rooted Escarpment function. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Gamay Le Coeur 2023, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

A hundred percent carbonic from same number whole cluster gamay and if there once was risk involved that anxiety is long gone. The all in number has been a factor since 2017 and one time trepidation is now a gamay that knows exactly what it is from makers who know exactly what they’ve got. Firm and with elastic tension for gamay that reaches out, snaps back and does it again. Repeats its processes on the palate with pulse and meter. Amazing. Last tasted at i4c, July 2025

Punchy for gamay, so very Niagara style, likely Lincoln Lakeshore or the steppes of the Beamsville Bench. Fruit, leafiness and a mild earthiness (as in reduction) together with top level perfume of spring flowers (hibiscus), fresh dill and that induction of reductive aromas. and a Villages emotion that speaks volumes about a general sense of place. Less demanding in terms of tannin and a declension of flavours while not quite as fleshy or full as expected to follow what came at the first. Will this flesh out? Quite likely because it grows and grows on you. Tremendously solid varietal wine – if not so adept at aging. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Malivoire Gamay Courtney 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Courtney releases a year later than Small Lot and Le Coeur because it’s more traditional without any carbonic maceration. Warmer vintage, more depth and peppery quality in a pinot meets syrah sort of way. A unique and mature vineyard brings warmth and depth, the treatment in the cellar meant to add breadth and lengthen what is possible. That it does. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Juicy and effusive gamay, such sweet perfume and candied goodness in that aromatic regard. Leafy and savoury infiltrates within and then a repeat on the palate that speaks to harmony within and also without. Maybe some RS sweetness but it is forgiven because all parts work well and together, Acidity over tannin and that’s perfectly fine. Just a bit sour at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Malivoire Cat On The Bench Gamay 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

Hard not to think comparatively but the musky funk of Cat on a Bench really does imagine Cru Beaujolais, specifically Morgan from a famous producer or two. “We got the funk, we got the funk!” Just one barrel makes 30 cases, first vintage was 2007 and who is the cat? Is it one of three or is it Martin? And which bench, the one next to the barn or The Bench? All adds up to fantasy, to Beaujolais and benches, to the impossibility of herding cats and the uniqueness of gamay from Moira vineyard. In any case this hits the proverbial off the beaten path spot. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

New gamay sku here for Malivoire, one of if not Niagara’s (and Canada’s for that matter) benchmark gamay houses. Martin Malivoire planted vines more than 25 years ago and at the time of bottling it was winemaker (now head of all things Malivoire) Shiraz Mottiar who had been running hither and thither with the varietal program. The iterations included Small Lot, Farmstead, Courtney, Le Coeur, Wismer-Foxcroft, Concrete and Genova. Mottiar has been playing with whole bunches, carbonic maceration, wood, concrete and things we may not fully be privy too. The Cat series includes three $50 chardonnays called Steel, Stave and Skin, while this looks to a new pinnacle for what the team surely saw as the finest estate fruit to date. “Cat on a Bench” may just be the mendicant four-legged feline on a hot tin roof because it’s survival depends on instinct and cunning, its energy nervous, hot, desirous and bothered. In a good way. Yes this is structured gamay, notably firm, sour, crunchy and somehow finds a way to reflect the realities of normal gamay life. And it is $60, surely unprecedented for Canadian gamay. Cru Beaujolais as well. A one off? We shall see. Drink 2024-2027 . Tasted August 2023

Malivoire Pinot Noir Small Lot 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

Brightest of the Malivoire pinot noir and a high acid, toned and intensity example with less concentration than the previous 2022. Classic cool climate correctness and standard bearer. Takes what it’s given and stays the varietal to place course. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Noir Mottiar 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Just a small amount of whole cluster, maybe 10 percent because of the variety’s penchant to elevate in volatile acidity. Still a little bit goes a long way and the wine just pops here from 2023. First there were the fiddlings of Shiraz Mottiar and now Elisa Mazzi, two winemakers who have confidently figured out how to master pinot noir from the small Mottiar vineyard. Do not fear “if you”can’t find the conductor who created the whole cluster” in this wine, but trust that their signature is there. As is the fruit and how it expresses this peekaboo of a block on the Beamsville Bench. If Val were pinot noir this would be her song and she would find her way off the train. It’s the theme of humankind and making pinot on the Bench. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Pinot Noir Cat On The Bench 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Malivoire’s Cat on the Bench in pinot noir is expressive of a similar whole cluster funk as noted with the Cat on the Bench gamay. Here however it combines with and is elevated in spice, but also increased depth and it all formulates as a serious pinot noir with a wildly invigorating result. COTB is a layered varietal wine that will take years to peel away and figure out what full possibilities await. The vintage is key to constructing and ultimately resolving the pressing and evolving questions. Hard to make a final decision on just how important the 2022 really is because tasting bottles along the way will surely re-write the script. Drink 2027-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Malivoire Cabernet Franc 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Crispy, crunchy and chalky cabernet franc, deep and sonorous, herbal with herbaceous piques, edgy and structured. Will still take a few years to figure itself out, push the fruit to the fore and find its core of balance. Last tasted at i4C, July 2025

Very different vintage to the light and stretched ’21, now fleshier and fulsome, 18 months total wood time, the last eight of which were in older barrel. From a vineyard in the valley below Ball’s Falls, this being Cascade adjacent to the Wismer cabernet franc block. Classic varietal expression, truly classic, tasting like and from limestone, impressively forward enough considering it was bottled just two weeks ago. Crunchy currants and red pepper, tart and tannins still a bit austere. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Rosehall Run Pinot Noir JCR Rosehall Vineyard 2022, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Sweet floral aromatics for Rosehall’s JCR 2022, a pinot noir that scents like an open book after a warm season. The dictionary entry for effusive, a Prince Edward County welcome, of “approval in an unrestrained or heartfelt manner.” A far as pinot noir in JCR steading goes there is a drinkability factor quickly underscored and yet a few more sips come to regard a stealth and sneaky structure under the underscore. This is the way of a Rosehall Run drug, especially in pinot noir, waging war within itself and at times struggling to make itself understood. Like an ocean of pinot personality beneath the waves and remember, “it always gets so hard to see, right before the moon.” Drink 2026-2031. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Estate Pinot Noir 2023, Tasmania, Australia

Tamar Ridge’s Devil’s Corner is Tasmanian branding for four equal parts salty, sapid, sweet and sour pinot noir. In other words a four-poster balanced cuvée of vineyards’ fruit that draws lines to four corners within an a varietal enclosure and repeats the process ad infinitum. Stage presence and a profound personality stood up to be recognized, investigated and counted. Firm, grippy and impressive. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Tawse Pinot Noir Cherry Avenue 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

No shock to experience a young Cherry Ave pinot noir in a state of rigid and closed control because it defines restraint for the Twenty Mile Bench. Quiet and diffident though we do detect a half wink and wry smile as it teases aromatics if obtusely giving little of its charm away. Noting the classic red crayon and concrete stiffness, breathing diaphragmatically, fuller and longer of inhalation and exhalation, costal speaking. This means low and slow evolution, a few years yet before things begin to open up and a long life ahead. The child of a wet and often cool vintage, showing as it should, made in a style that expresses vintage and place with distinction. Even if these things are not yet known. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Thirty Bench Gamay Noir Wild Cask 2023, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Only 51 cases were made of this ultra unique Bench gamay noir which will appear as the lightest and leanest of them all. Do not be fooled by colour because there is varietal concentration, intensity, structural integrity and pent up power in Emma Garner’s wine. Not exactly puff up the chest and egocentric, but rather capability, probability, possibility and promise. Balanced, sweetly volatile and singular with wood spice and a white pepperiness that is unlike the rest. Should hazard a guess the kids will love this and in these times can afford it too. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Chris Thompson and Stephen del Degan, Volta Estate

Volta Estate Winery Pinot Noir Knotty Vines Vineyard 2023, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario

Welcome to the future. The Del Degan family are a new County player standing up to immediately be noticed and reckoned with. Just a short time ahead will be filled with elevated Prince Edward County importance to include Rosehall’s Volta Estate Wines under the guidance of winemaker Chris Thompson. Hard to fathom how quickly a wine like this 2023 rises to prominence for the region but here it is in all its ripeness and crucial balanced glory. A more precocious and richer start from the corner of Greer and 33 where 18-24 inches of topsoil separate 12 year-old plantings from solid limestone bedrock. This is simply a remarkable, yet surely well-reasoned and calculated beginning. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2025

Good to go!

godello

Cool Chardonnay on ice

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Twenty-four Canadian wines that rocked in 2024

Dec23

Godello and Hare

Composing a best of list is something that takes a sedulous amount of time, a year’s accumulation of thought and above all else, ultra careful consideration. When more than 1,000 Canadian wines are tasted in a calendar year, narrowing it down to 24 feels like a profound task and weighty sense of responsibility. These twenty-four Canadian wines that rocked in 2024 represent the twelfth consecutive such register first published in 2013, annually iterated and guaranteed, never gratuitously settled upon and always as a show of Canada’s highest level of quality. Integrity too, which will become clear by the time you finish reading this exercise.

Godello at Dobbin Estate

Seven out of 24 (that’s nearly 30 percent for those scoring at home) are sparkling wines, a number that will only come as a shocking surprise to those who haven’t been paying attention. The math is really quite simple. Cool climate viticulture means longer growing seasons for more developed, therefore riper phenolics matched dutifully by kept acidities. Climates have changed but Canadian growing areas have not yet lost their edge and besides, extreme events are more likely and increasingly the culprit when it comes to extenuating snafu circumstances like crazy cold snaps that take out wide swaths of grapevines. For the most part this country can still hang a wide variety of grapes to create killer sparkling wines. Seven sparklers are here, from five growing areas in three provinces.

WineAlign dines at Hidden Bench

Six of Godello’s 2024s are chardonnay, if for no other good reason than it always being on Canadian minds. What’s the best way to go about growing and making wines of the highest quality? Is chardonnay a victim of its own ubiquity and adaptability? What makes it so special then, as an expression of place, as well as production and technique? Chardonnay should taste like it has come from a place, but also from a time. No one said it was easy but one thing is certain, it’s a hell of a lot easier to make great chardonnay that has been planted in the right location. Still the endeavour is puzzling, like getting lost and running through a maze, fraught with wrong turns and dead-ends. It’s about hunch work, gauging probabilities, accounting for what has come before and extrapolating towards what might be. In Canada trying to find locations that gift the sweet spot is, as if at midnight, where sugar ripeness, acid structure, phenolic ripeness and fruit character will probably meet for optimum results. We who feel like this and nod at one another knowingly are lovers of chardonnay; eager and desperate to be one with its varietal psyche, to imagine it synched in sycophant fixation with our own. Yet all the salient facts and aspects of a wine’s journey, in viticulture, pH, residual sugar, total acidity, élevage and in tasting, are really nothing if we are unable to find the theory of the wine and by extension, the winemaker who made it happen. Fortunately for us the top six Canadian chardonnays chosen here (and the list does not stop at that number), have all made it happen.

Flight #1 at the 2024 School of Cool
(c) i4C

A reminder that “Chardonnay is never too cool for school.” The article published after i4C 2024 had this to say. “Will fully admit to having seriously considered not using the word “cool” in the title for this latest exposé on i4C, Niagara’s annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Conference. Then good conscience and reality set in because the original dub for Canada’s most important and successful wine congress will always be too good to dismiss. They coined it, built it and people have most certainly come. To foresee and then to consummate this collective pursuit of excellence inscribes Cool Chardonnay into the lexicon of wine forever. Hard to predict just how many more of these joyous to potentially annual profound (four-day) weekends there will be, but were this the last then hundreds upon hundreds of producers, winemakers, media, influencers and consumers over the years will have walked away happy, better for it and with memories to last a lifetime. The extraordinary 2024 edition of i4C went deeper still, to deliver the coolest quality and finest balance between information, socialization, revelry, society and of course, chardonnay. Cool as ever, gotta be cool, relax and never too cool for school.”

Twenty Mile Bench

It was a very good year for tasting pinot noir and thus the grape is also well represented with five on the list. No other grape causes more of a stir, is responsible for more hair to fall and breaks more hearts. Does not play well with others, refuses to share, to be blended, to give anything less than 100 per cent. For many, there is no other grape variety. How often does a conversation begin with “what is your favourite wine” and end invidiously with “Burgundy?” While Bourgogne certainly persists as the historic locale possessive of the title “when it’s great, it’s the best,” pinot noir has found immense global success and Canadian soils are largely responsible for that. Thoughts with doubts about pinot noir’s viability in Canadian vineyards have long been laid to rest with proof arranged and clarified after yet another edition of the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. The judging week saw the fourth most number of flights, all intriguing and arguably the finest collective showing of bottles poured from the fickle grape. From lithe, transparent, high-toned, red berry charmers to darker, brooding, seriously ripe and often tannic iterations. As it has been said, “beauties and beasts, belles et bêtes,” pinot noir the good can succeed one way or another, with harmony and in balance.

With Magdalena Kaiser

So what is the number one takeaway with regards to Canadian pinot noir? The answer lies in the way winemakers approach their product. Lowest of low cropping to achieve density and concentration is no longer the launching point towards making great pinot noir. Aggressive pressing, intense macerations and long wood aging, especially in newer (and smaller) vessels all lead to astringency and imbalance. All of these things are fading into the rear-view mirror, slowly but surely being replaced by first and foremost, sustainable and regenerative agriculture resulting in healthier vines. In the winery there is less handling, more finesse and attention paid to detail leading to more purity and also clarity in the wines. This is what pinot noir needs. If the most suitable and only the most suitable sites are used, the future will move from optimistic to auspicious. The number one takeaway? Canadian pinot noir has long been searching for and is now beginning to find inner peace. Let’s just hope it keeps on this path, despite and in spite of climate change.

Godello’s annual best of bundle feels easier to create because with each passing year there are so many more wines of wonderment tasted and yet, and yet the jumble is harder to defend. Great wines are not left off the list for reasons of inferiority, deficiency or lack of character. The game is one of numbers and the pool from which to choose grows exponentially every year. These are the twenty-four Canadian wines that rocked in 2024.

With Heather Rankin – Obladee, Halifax

Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 Sparkling 2023, Nova Scotia

Benjamin Bridge is indeed correct and fully justified in self-proclaiming Nova 7 as “Nova Scotia’s favourite wine” because, well it just is. The blend for this resilient, magical, a decade and a half in the making, lightly effervescent and low alcohol sparkler is muscat, ortega, riesling, geisenheim, l’Acadie, vidal and petite pearl. The latter is a cold-hardy hybrid cultivar bred using a cross between MN 1094 and E.S. 4-7-26, grown in 25 US states and four provinces of Canada. The acidity for Nova 7 at 9 g/L integrates with ease and swirls 49 g/L of residual sugar into a comfort zone like a balanced Spätlese, with the peachiest of flavours and a refreshing, thirst-quenching and salty iced tea finish. A throwback in many ways and yet the 2023 is quite frankly as good as any Nova 7 there has ever been. Age a bottle three or four years to see what happens. What could go wrong? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2024

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. 2014, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Aromatic complexity, a chardonnay and pinot noir (55-45) sear of raging citrus but never lean because there is flesh all over the palate. The lemon segments are ripe and delicious, the red fruit character compliments with added spice, the persistence endless and the winemaking clearly coming from a place of experience and respect to place. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Mountain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Last House Joie De Vivre Blanc De Blanc 2021, VQA Prince Edward County

No dosage, categorically Brut Zero sparkling wine of leesy significance and gentlest positive oxidation. A bubble set up this way from the start and carrying the torch forward on a justifiably sound plateau that should see no significant changes for the next few years. Only chardonnay and no vintage heat to set its trajectory hastily forward, with full orchard and citrus fruit flavours on a sturdy frame backed by bedrock as backbone PEC limestone intensity. You need to try this – it represents a significant style and profound bottle of sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted November 2024

The Senchuks – Leaning Post

Leaning Post Blanc De Blanc Traditional Method Sparkling 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench

Old (35 year-old) chardonnay Hemeris Vineyard vines are the source for the LP traditional method Blanc de Blanc that sees four-plus years on the lees. The sugar is not quite zero but to be honest, nine-plus grams of acidity renders three g/L of RS essentially obsolete. And yet the mouthfeel is full, substantial and acting gregarious. Packed with aromas and flavours, seemingly impossible and so this from a less than heat-cumulate Niagara vintage (that would have made for seriously piqued and biting still chardonnays) is almost a sparkling oxymoron. As far from severe as B de B will be, instead generous and celebratory. Unexpected and mind-blowing in many ways. What sorcery is this pray tell, Senchuk and Senchuk? Drink 2025-2032. Tasted November 2024

Dean Stoyka and J-J Groux – Stratus

Stratus Brut Nature Zero Dosage 2013, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

J-L Groux explains that the main factor for making this kind of sparkling wine is PH, “because the aromatics will be built upon six to seven years of lees aging time.” J-L feels this ’13 is going to be the winner now, and for 20 years. Not far off it would seem because of the “partial disgorgement” method, well within VQA rules and thus you arrive at a toasty smoulder unlike any other sparkling wine. The lees are the thing, in fact they are everything. They prevent the aromas and the wine from oxidizing. Amazing. Last tasted July 2024

Comes across a bit cloudy, at least as compared to the B de B with thanks to the natural, lees left intact style. The citrus component is so pronounced, as is the taut, direct, lean and intense manifold destiny of what is truly a singular Sparkling wine. That being a living, breathing, inhaling and exhaling wine, slowly releasing proteins, acids and realizing its B de B Nature dream. Just amazing what lees can do for sparkling wine. Tasted July 2021

Released side by each with the Stratus Blanc de Blanc 2013 and while vintage and grape are the same, the similarities almost seemingly, ostensibly and allegedly end there. Yes in fact this 100 per cent chardonnay is a child of the most excellent varietal vintage and like the B de B spent six years on the lees. Comparisons cast aside it is the very fact that because much of the lees were transferred to bottle by a minimalist’s disgorging that this cloudy bubble with a Canadian artist’s series set of labels can’t help but elicit another memory. The Lilies of Monet and their clouds represent neither the horizon, nor the top or the bottom. Nor does a bottle of this Zéro Dosage Brut. The elements of water, air, sky and earth become intertwined in a composition without perspective, or so it goes in this hazy, opaque and dry as the desert sparkling wine. So many layers of lemon can be peeled, juiced and scraped away. If a Stratus wine could be a a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma then here it is. The texture here is palpable and the intrigue factor surely high, so it should be imagined that longevity will be this wine’s calling card. It’s more austere than the Blanc de Blanc but I think in fact it will. Drink 2022-2029. Tasted November 2020

Tasting The Old Third at White Oaks

The Old Third Pinot Noir Sparkling À La Volée 2011, Prince Edward County

First bottle opened since last tasting this unicorn of a PEC sparkling wine back in October of 2015. Now in a state of settled grace, of a collected, stored and persistent slow release of energy that keeps on keeping on. Every County maker using pinot noir for a Brut zero (or near zero) style should find a bottle of À La Volée 2011 as a reference point because as interpreters they must translate still wines to become bubbles “on the fly,” without waiting for the end to begin, acting with hindsight. Last tasted December 2024

“On the fly” is not exactly what comes to mind from this 100 per cent Pinot Noir, first Sparkling wine made by Bruno Francois. Calculated, attention to detail and intensity of ideation more like it. Three years on the lees, no dosage and from a vintage to speak in more than whispered voices, of acidity that announces its arrival with immediacy and a summons to contest. The nose does yeast, toast, citrus and ginger. A first release revelation as ever graced Ontario’s waves, as dry as the desert and lingering with switch back traces of its yeasty, toasty self. A single vineyard can be this way, equally and in opposition of natural and oxidative, with a hue less than Pinot Noir, though unrequited as a triumph when you get a ripe white from such Pinot. The production of 1200 bottles is relatively house high in a stunner that needs no sugar to draw up its flavours. Drink 2015-2023. Tasted twice, July and October 2015

Marty Werner – York Vineyards

York Vineyards Reserve Brut, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

Emma Garner – Thirty Bench

Thirty Bench Steel Post Vineyard Small Lot Riesling 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment

An Ontario legend in terms of riesling and the one from Emma Garner at Thirty Bench that defies logic with a magical spell cast upon the grapes put to bottle. Probably the driest of the Small Lot series at just 11 g/L of residual sugar, impossibly converted and qualified by just 11.2 percent alcohol with what must be an acidity number that’s just about as high as the sweeter rieslings in the portfolio. The energy and vitality are exceptional, the warmth of the vintage delivers top quality, if absolutely pristine fruit and then there are the qualities of extract and tannin cohabitating at this highest level of composure. The potential here is unlimited. One of the finest rieslings ever made in Ontario and this one goes up to 11. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted March 2024

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

The word “tannic” does not often first (second or third) come to mind when riesling is the subject but ’21 and Picone from Charles Baker strikes that way from the first sip. This after a most unique aromatic begin, dried herbals for one thing and exotic spicing in a cumin-coriander masala way. Even more so fenugreek leaf and wait for it…maple syrup. Hard to say why ’21 emits this way but when these scents give way to the riesling’s body politic the effect is both exotic and promising. Baker himself says that the “2021 CB from Picone is true to form and represents the vintage properly. Elegant, refined, absorbs the richness with fine acidity. Long floral green toned finish. Will age beyond me.” Indeed this may just turn out to be Charles Baker’s longest lived of the Picones, right up there with the ’06, ’11 and ’16. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted October 2024

Morgan Juniper – 16 Mile

16 Mile Cellar Civility Chardonnay Single Vineyard 2020, VQA Creek Shores

From a block called Susan’s Vineyard, wild ferment, full malolactic, raised in oak puncheons of light toast. The growing location may be the lower Escarpment’s steppe of Creek Shores but who would not feel, see and recognize this 2020 as truly Bench chardonnay. No ambivalence in the method, execution or design, ample and plush, of an all in lemony curd to speak of the finest and cleanest lees. Truly singular style and without a doubt winemaker Morgan Juniper’s most comprehensive chardonnay to date. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted June 2024

Maenad Wine Co.

Maenad Wine Co. Chardonnay Unfiltered And Bottled With Lees 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

From the young vines of Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and while this label shall remain nameless, the block is actually 295. “A wild terroir exploration” says the winemaking show that is Yvonne Irving, a winemaker used to making a full bodied style of chardonnay from the Queenston Mile Vineyard. Unmistakably GVH and if you’ve tasted a Senchuk or Bachelder iteration than you’d know the vineyard wins every time. The richesse is belied by this specificity of intensity that is unequivocally GVH. This northern spot produces the most brightness against the backdrop of ripeness, barrel fermentation and oak-aging. Full malolactic but always beneath the fruit, full on lees and amazing crunch. So full up the middle and yet vertical. Real deal, whole package and so much more to come. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2022, VQA Short Hills Bench

There is some truth to the advantage of tasting a stellar ’22 like this from Henry of Pelham when a great deal of other chardonnay being poured alongside are ‘21s, but letting chardonnays be chardonnay it matters less than we should actually be talking about. The SFR ’22 lives up to its blind billing and thrills without a moment’s hesitation. End of story. Last tasted August 2024

The only reductive chardonnay in this flight of nine which speaks to an overall change in winemaking and in fact there have only been three like this, out of let’s say 50 tasted these days. Reductive as much as any chardonnay though the fruit can stand up and hang tightly on the upright frame. Notable style, bit of pyrazine, Behind the veil is most excellent and concentrated varietal fruit that to this mind celebrates a very specific sense of place. A Bench on a step up against a hillside or escarpment and its maker’s care is more than evident. Tastes akin to high end Marlborough chardonnay. Well thought out, serious intention and should age well. A seriously structured and balanced wine that drinks well now but will only improve over the next two years. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Jessica Otting – Tawse

Tawse Chardonnay Quarry Road Vineyard 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

No shock or surprise that Quarry Road ’21 is a mineral bomb, coming away on that rocky side of the 50-50 fruit to stone compendium. Forget everything you’ve heard or read about this arch-cool Vinemount Ridge chardonnay, but also ignore all the noise about unmitigated disaster by vintage. Niagara winemakers should always make quality cool chardonnay these days and Tawse holds more water and responsibility than most. Jessica Otting is ten times equal to the task with a Quarry so precise and focused it may just make a tooth or two feel the mineral pain. A chardonnay chillingly representative of its vineyard yet, rewriting the jazz because of the shall not be named vintage. The naysayers can run away and hide in their holes because history will be kind to these wines, especially when they shine on in tastings ten years forward. No crutch or apology, sorry not sorry. Remember 2011 and 2013. Now forget them and only speak of 2021. Just great chardonnay. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Alex Baines – Hidden Bench

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard Unfiltered 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

My goodness this is special chardonnay, coming as no surprise and if your thoughts and emotions for 2021 Niagara chardonnay need buoying than begin the bob right here. Precise aromas, immediate and echoing, more fruit than frankly necessity should expect as the mother of invention because mineral and saltness demand our utmost attention. Yet the fruit stands firm and even pulpy in the face of the crushed stone infiltrate from a vineyard stop on the grandest of Niagara cru tours. Exemplary to speak on behalf of a vintage that separates wheat from chaff, pinpointed location from just anywhere and adults from the gambling trials of youth. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Wade Dobbin, David Lawrason and Peter Gamble

Dobbin Estate Chardonnay 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Not labeled as such but essentially a Reserve wine taken from a single barrel housing all estate fruit. High level of concentration and richness in the face of a vintage considered cool and challenging, but when you take a smallest of small lot wines like this that just does not apply. Everything about this is classic, basket pressed, natural ferment, full natural malolactic, 22 months maximum for oak aging, Burgundian obviously and medium of toast. “We come to barrel turbid – we like density,” notes Peter Gamble. (Peter) and Ann Sperling really liked this one particular barrel and decided to put it to magnums only. From late September and early October picks, finished at 14.5 percent alcohol and ultimately mouthfeel that rivals some pretty warm wine growing regions. A chardonnay that moves beyond Bourgogne to offer up its very own definition of Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench. Last tasted July 2024

This may be just the first stages of Dobbin’s tenure making high end wines from the Twenty Mile Bench but auspicious does not begin to describe the level of sophistication marking these beginnings. The erudite oenological consulting team of Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble have taken chardonnay into territory they are quite familiar with but always keep in mind that top terroir, vineyard conditioning and uncompromising preparation are what collectively set this up for success. This 2019 is from a cool climate vintage out of a cool climate place and recent history tells us that these are chardonnay that live good, long and healthy varietal lives. Luxe yet still crunchy, high quality wood used generously if judiciously and in the end this kind of rocks the world. In a chardonnay way. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted April 2024

Spearhead Pommard Clone Pinot Noir 2022, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

A bit of aromatic restraint from a pinot noir keeping some secrets and what scents as some whole bunch percentage inclusive style. Good palate richness and berry to citrus emulsion like a fluid smoothie of reds, greens and acidity. Plenty of understated depth, so ample, focused and really well defined. Brightest of the flight, red fruit in flight, breathing easier, acids also up there and structure never too demanding. Could always drink a glass. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Thomas Bachelder in the wilds of the Twenty Mile Bench

Bachelder Wild West End Wismer Parke Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

For Thomas Bachelder Wild West End, Wismer Parke Vineyard and pinot noir started out as the one of the most mystery, namely because Wismer could not name the clone and the first wine was even more sanguine than that of the Wismer Parke. Which says that the West End’s soil affects the clonal material in exaggerated ways and the question has always been, to tame or not to tame. The answer is vintage and not needing “a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.” Bachleder had to hang loose, stay cautious and learn about the vineyard’s situation, take other’s opinions into account and then proceed with action. This vintage feels like a culmination of necessity, a varietal mother of invention, a reality on display of full capabilities realized. The height of an epoch acceded by a grower and a winemaker on the same page. A wine of intelligence and acceptance because the ferric meets hematic parts oversee and tell fruit what to be and how to act. The people have learned how not to get in the way and the degree has been earned. The question is what’s next? Drink 2026-2033. Tasted November 2024

Kerri Crawford – Le Clos Jordanne

Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

As with Claystone Terrace the Grand Clos Vineyard blocks running from west to east move through this fruit gradation from structured and austere through to soft and amenable. For 2021 the middle ground is duly noted with a signature and arch classic Jordan/Twenty Mile Bench pinot noir that sings in youthful life as early as it ever has. The team (Thomas Bachelder, Kerri Crawford and Phillip Brown) have coaxed out the sweetest natural fruit. While it flows with ease it’s also equipped to slow down, reflect, and then re-emerge a few years thereafter, post pause and not atypical varietal dumb phase. Th3 2021 is found to be chic, suave and stylish as ever, fruit in a dark red cherry state and acidity meeting texture for mouthfeel of a most finessed kind. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted July 2024

Carrying Place, Prince Edward County

Trail Estate Winery Pinot Noir Revival 2020, VQA Prince Edward County

Has to be the top of the top drop for Trail Estate but also for PEC, not to mention perched up there at the precipice of breaching the Provincial price rubicon for all wines. Some are one dimensional, others expressed in two and then there is Trail’s, which most definitely incorporates a third. Reductive and diesel fuelled with almost no precedence towards understanding just exactly what this aromatic unfamiliarity is all about. Confounding and yet a sip quickly adjusts the viewpoint because layers of recognizable fruit glide over the palate. The vintage is worth waiting for, the phenolics so ripe that not a stem should be wasted, while the savoury pastry of said whole bunches makes sure no holes are left unfilled. When the lowest yields and the most stringent selection meet risk-reward winemaking techniques there can be something special to come from all these hopes and dreams. If revival speaks to the human condition, a.k.a. struggles with sin, forgiveness and redemption, well then this pinot noir may just be the answer to a winemaker’s struggle, quest and renewal. Now let’s see her repeat this every vintage, or at least one here and there deemed worthy of the pain, journey and prize. Oh, and please give this at least another year to find its way so that the enigmatic behaviour should wane and eventually subside. Those who can afford the cost will then see the forest for the trees and be granted some personal form of immediate gratification. In the end the question begs as to how we value Revival as a three-dimensional pinot noir? By definition three coordinates are required to determine the position of a point (and a pinot), namely those you can pick up, touch, and move around. But in the end the simple answer is depth, which is what Revival and all great wines simply have. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted April 2024

Jonas Newman – The Grange

The Grange Of Prince Edward Aurelia Pinot Noir 2023, VQA Prince Edward County

Roche Wines Amulet Syrah 2021, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

Semi-serious syrah, surely built upon an upright skeletal frame with flesh hanging on its bones and acids piquing through the supple textures of that flesh. Also floral and the meatiness seems to increase with every sip. Iron bloodiness and tannins also grow as you work with what is now becoming a fully serious wine. Chocolate melting and coating the back end with the same function as the tannins of the wine. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Phantom Creek Kobau Vineyard Syrah 2020, BC VQA Golden Mile Bench

Here is the syrah bomb that means serious business. Smoked meat, iodine, sanguine and that classic black olive tapenade. A veritable hematoma of red, black and blue, fruit, acid and tannic intensity. If it’s showing some volatility that’s just because of rebellious youth and unresolved structure. This is very serious wine. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Okanagan Valley

LaStella Cabernet Sauvignon La Sophia 2019, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

When you look at the last 10 years of Okanagan wine-growing there is no doubt that 2019 resides near the peak and is a vintage that should be filling collector’s cellars. La Sophia is one of those wines, a cabernet sauvignon with a track record that speaks to consistency and excellence. Imminently recognizable as both La Stella and their extension of Black Sage Bench terroir in Oliver. If any local cabernet will resonate with the Oliver equivalent of the Tuscan coast’s Macchia Mediterranea than La Sophia would be it. Not exactly balsamico or garrigue but yes something Italianate, of rich dark fruit set against fine-grained tannin and that brushy, herbal, vinous and resinous scents of the terrain. Black Sage Bench issue, nothing standard about it and it needs a name. Like Okanagan Briar or Chaparral, but regardless you can’t miss the outback in this wine. Yes the 50 percent new wood needs to integrate further and it will, given the requiem necessary, in air and also time. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May 2024

Two Sisters Riesling Icewine 2023, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake (375ml)

Spicy waft from the 2023 riesling and a level of viscosity to speak of Icewine made in the most serious of ways. The haute and cultured fragrance makes one wonder why $89 should be the price when three times that amount might make sense, after consideration is taken for the time, effort and work required to make such a wine even possible. The fruit is extraordinary, the acidity at a high level for the vintage and Icewine in general. This is the what, how and why for the category to be celebrated, wines exulted, performance perpetuated and raison d’être defined. Give this two more years to fully see the riesling respond in the way it surely can. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted June 2024

Good to go!

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Godello and Hare

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Etna Days are here to stay

Dec6

Versante Nord, L’Etna

As an event Etna Days may only be four years in the making, but it is a great one. That it falls in the second week of September is a thing of brilliance, with weather warm and nurturing, grapes continuing to hang on the vines, the harvest on producers’ minds and yet still far enough away. The setting is spectacular, with ancient lava flows all-around, signs of new ones spewing from craters above 3,000 metres, vineyards marked by stone terraces and walls, century vines thriving here, there and everywhere. No two blocks look the same with each producing a unique Etna Bianco or Rosso. Confidence and morale feel to be at an all time high.

The Sommeliers of Etna Days

Never mind the challenges of 2023, including a May 3rd hailstorm, some but far from devastating presence of the Perenospera (mildew) virus and lower vine yields. What will follow the lower quantity and high quality of 2023 will by now have been the promise of a brilliant 2024 harvest. The Etna DOC Consortium suggests that the latest rains after the hot and dry summer have slowed down the ripening process, thereby helping to enhance phenolic and aromatic components. Slower and more gradual maturation proved to be decisive in terms of improvements in quantity and quality. The Consortium estimates a harvest of around 80,000 quintals (about 35/40% white grapes and the remainder red) and a likely production potential of more than 55,000 hectolitres. In terms of volume, the harvest is expected to be up by around 60 percent compared to 2023.

La Gelsomina Di Colombo

There is no understanding of modern Etna without a proper historical base and that begins with the ancient, but also more recent visualization of the Palmento. In some cases outdoor stone remains can be seen, including that of the 1300 year-old Palmento at Rupestre in Pietramarina, Castiglione di Sicilia. It was excavated out of one rock, a vasca carved from the sandstone, a lagares for treading on grapes used by the Sicel peoples, early settlers in eastern Sicily. The island is littered with archeological sites that prove the existence of winemaking going back three thousand years but on L’Etna it is the presence of restored stone buildings where, with the use of gravity, grapes would have been collected and fermented into wine. At Palmento Costanzo the buildings that housed the original wine making were restored in 2015 and finished in 2019. The technology is new but the gravity fed Palmento abides by the old ways.

Alberello planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis at Palmento Costanzo, Contrada Santa Spririto

For centuries I Catanesi would have come up the mountain to purchase in bulk where necessitous viticulture was born in harmony but also with respect to the landscape. In the 19th century approximately 100 million litres of wine was produced on Mount Etna, all from the various Palmenti. Wine born of a place with an active volcano rising above vineyards at 3,300m of elevation, a climate unlike anywhere else on Sicily and a terroir aboard geology conceived from hundreds of various lava flows throughout the course of its history. The differences in biodiversity from block to block, contrada to contrada and village to village are evident in the multifarious plant life growing on the extant slopes of the volcano.

Consorzio President Francesco Cambria

The various lava flows, each with a unique set of stone in chronological stages of degradation, from the hardest lava rock through gravels and into sand are all characterized by a distinct set of weathered minerals and elements contained within. How each corridor and at what elevation affects the endemic grape varieties is a great mystery and so many of us will spend a lifetime trying to make some sense of the how and why. The Etnaese carricante, white and red minnella, nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio are children raised and nurtured by the slope, elevation and geological make-up that is their home on the mountain.

Etna Days Rosso

Whether by Alberello or modern day Guyot or Cordone Speronato training it is the age and disintegration of soil that seems to be the greatest influencer on their outcomes. Serena Costanzo talks of the innovative pruning method of Simon & Sirsch, of which “the principle rule is ramification – build a chronology of live wood; first year, second year, third year and so on” with a method that does not interrupt the lymphatic system. They remind that “a vine is not a tree, but a liana” and that “pruning, which is and remains a mutilating technical act for the plant, causes consequences within the plant…a rethinking of pruning, so that it was more respectful of the physiology of the plant.” There are ramifications, the necessity of continuance for sap flow, to make small cuts and hold a respect for the wood. They have observed “how the application of a dynamic and physiological pruning of the plant promote an increase in living wood over the years, with a consequent intact and efficient lymphatic system.” Their most essential reminder is that “there is no good or bad pruner but there is a trained and an untrained pruner. The Simon & Sirsch system “is a way to combat climate change,” says Serena, “especially during periods of extreme heat.” Nerello Mascalese trained by Alberello and planted in pentangles, five per grouping all facing a central axis works opposite to traditional rows and is Palmento Costanzo’s way of maximizing root structure and efficiency.

With John Szabo M.S. and Consorzio Director Maurizio Lunetta

It bears reminding that L’Etna is a an active volcano and so what spews out and forth from its craters will constantly affect viticulture. The new settling of wind-carried ashes and lapilli are perpetually adding new layers to old soils which in turn induces innate revisions and so from vintage to vintage Etna’s wines are always in flux, forever subjugated to constant change. One only needs to have tasted the last few vintages of the Etna Bianco Superiore from the village of Milo to intuit just how significant an effect these wind-blown fragments have had on the wines. They have never been more intriguing, exciting and frankly better. Studies of these eastern Etna soils in a cooler micro-zone show significant levels of silica, iron, magnesium and potassium in the soils, combining to gift the Bianco with much to digest.

Related – All the wines of Sicily

That is the past and from the start of the First World War through to the 1970s and 1980s the wine business aboard L’Etna fell away to pieces. It’s resurrection is but 30 years in the making and the transformation of the past 10-plus years is nothing short of remarkable. The oenologist, farmer and cellar dweller will say that the use of Palmenti and the Alberello are key to restoring dignity, faith in humanity and the true essence of what it means to produce Etna wines. Consorzio President Francesco Cambria will say that the most important project is to see the passage of the denomination transform from the Italian DOC to DOCG. These are all matters to consider and get behind, for some it’s about the heart and for others the reality of business and therefore life.

Carlo Flamini, Maurizio Lunetta, Luigi Moio, Bertrand Gauvrit and Francesco Cambria

Etna Days is an exceptionally well run and seamlessly orchestrated event with thanks to the teams involved. Consorzio Etna DOC’s Presidente Francesco Cambria, Direttore Maurizio Lunetta and Segreteria di Direzione Sarolta Stella Osvath. The team at Ispropress with Angiolino Lonardi, Bernardetta Lonardi, Simone Velasco, Sara Faroni, Marina Catenacci, Marta De Carli and Eleonora Alberti Cermison. The third edition of the 2024 Etna Days congress assembled for the first morning’s welcome with expanded perspectives and analyses of international dimension. Cambria and Lunetta hosted speeches by Carlo Flamini (Head of the Italian Wine Union Observatory), Bertrand Gauvrit (General Director of the Association des Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne) and Luigi Moio (President of the International Organization of Vine and Wine). Sommelier assisted technical tastings, walk around chats with the producers and touring visits at estates all combined to deliver a profound sense of modern day Etna. High-level discussions were had on location with Tenuta delle Terre Nere’s Marc de Grazia, Benanti’s Salvino Benanti, Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa’s Pietro Giovanni, Rupestre and Terre Darrigo’s Rosario Raciti, Palmento Costanzo’s Valeria and Serena Costanzo, Quantico’s Giovanni Raiti, Tascante’s Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia and Planeta’s Patricia Tóth. For his part Godello made tasting notes on 150-plus wines. These are his reviews.

Etna Spumante DOC and Terre Siciliane IGT

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse Brut Carricante Método Classico 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Twenty years into the (traditional method) sparkling wine program with help from a northern (Suditrol) sparkling wine company, 24 months on lees. Brut which here means 4-5 g/L of residual sugar, more than relatively dry with carricante. Reductive, high energy, tight and immovably youthful. Dried herbs, fennel, brushy and dusty savour. Acidity is quite fine, balance is struck and the lees aging time spot on for this widely appealing yet serious sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Noblesse XLVIII Brut Carricante Método Classico 2019, Terre Siciliane IGT

The Noblesse was named because Giuseppe Benanti saw himself as identifying with high level French sparkling wines and this next tier rise sees the wine remain on lees for 48 months. Similar RS (below 5 g/L) but the extra time brings quite a factor of autolysis as a by-product of time. Yeast-bready in just the correct way, harmony struck between the autolytic notes and acidity yet with a higher pH and lower acid profile. Quite a different expression of carricante as sparkling while co-existing within the same Benanti family. Both wines feel like they really carry a purpose, including for what sector of the market they are looking to make their appeal. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Lamorèmio Brut Rosé Método Classico 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

Like the Noblesse Brut this sees 24 months on the lees with nerello mascalese as a Rosato which comes away feigning sweetness more than the carricante, even though the sugar (at 5-ish g/L) is just about the same. Acid structure carries the sweetness and the weight, length is good and this is surely the more all-around style taht offers wide ranging appeal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut Librato 2020

Made with just a small part of nerello mascalese from Contrada Muscamento for a total blanc de noir production of 500 bottles. Livrato is poetry, in ode to Michaela Luca’s mother who was an avid reader. Base wines are kept on lees with bâttonage and the wine also spends 30 months on the gross lees. High energy, sharp, pointed and full on tang, enough freshness but also some weight to be sure. Citrus makes a statement and without any dosage there should be a piercing effect but that’s simply not the case. Quite impressive sparkling for L’Etna. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Rosé Método Classico 2021

Lightest Rosato hue, in part because the Gelsomina style is all about clarity and freshness, as far away as possible from oxidation and especially autolysis. No brioche or yeast derivative aromas, just red fruit, primary and juicy. The lees aging time is minimum 36 months but the winemaking does everything possible to stay reductive and with minimum contacts or stagnancies. Rosato is a step more complex than Blanc de Noir if not quite as energetic. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Spumante DOC Brut Blanc de Noir Método Classico 2021

When Etna DOC added Spumante to the disciplinare 10 years ago Gelsomina (partner of Tenute Orestiadi) was ready and was amongst the first to bottle under the allowable labelling. The blend is 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio, minimum 36 months on the lees. Brut at six g/L of residual sugar. Good thing the acidity is captured and kept because there is no shortage of flesh, fruit ripeness and creamy texture. Clean, fresh, accessible and well made. The choice is clear, to avoid autolytic notes and so the yeasty and bready style is for someone else. A Gelsomina is the exact opposite. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Spumante DOC Método Classico Brut

A 24 months on lees traditional method sparkling wine, disgorged in February 2024, Brut style. Feeling like 5-6 g/L of residual sugar, tart and ably if typically carricante. Fine bubble, tight and sure with a botanical component. Clean and just feels right with a cheese plate. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Etna Rosato DOC

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosato DOC Lunabuona 2022

In 2022 Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti chose to invest in a small 1960 planted vineyard at 680m on the North slope of L’Etna in the village is Rovittello, a suburb of Castiglione di Sicilia in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo. Their Rosato is 90 percent nerello mascalese with (10 combined) minella nera and bianca. A unique Rosé, equal parts salinity an sapidity which essentially translates to 100 percent volcanic. This is currently their largest volume sku at 1,600 bottles and with the extra year of aging it drinks beautifully, at peak and with grace today. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

From Rosso vineyards, looking for freshness and very little sugar but also low alcohol. Only steel, three months, bottled in February. Rich of fruit, salty, crunchy and for Rosato also complex. Tons of flavour, strawberry and some leafy savour. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May and September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Energy noted straight away, a carbonic nerello mascalese buzz that drives Rosato to stand up and be noticed. Comes right at the senses, aromatically floral and palate treble tremble to pique interest and taste sensations. Full fruit and mineral working together for flavour and character. That’s what it’s all about . Last tasted September 2024

Equally fruity and vegetal, of red berries and peppers, a tartness and also lactic cheese note. Herbal as well and so complexity as Rosato if on the acquired taste side of style. Crunchy and salty, briny to a degree, naturally wild and free. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosato DOC 2023

So similar to the Terre Darrigo Rosato made by Rosario Raciti with 100 percent nerello mascalese fermented and simply allowed to go from vine to glass. The difference is location and terroir. What does that mean? Contrada Pietramarina fruit, salinity and acidity, grip and tension. Otherwise just the Rosato and mascalese facts. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosato DOC Tefra 2022

Aptly labeled “Vigne Custodite dalla Famiglia Tasca d’Almerita,” a statement to make sure we understand these nerello mascalese grapes are estate grown. Aromatic varietal volume, energy and spirit run high, yet most notable are the wealth and depth of flavours. Cherry moving into strawberry with a basic phenolic presence and that is very much all you want and need. Not a high acid Rosato, nor was that the intention. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosato DOC 2020

Only nerello mascalese from the lower and most vigorous part of the vineyard and grapes are chosen specifically for the Rosato. No wood like the white, once again to preserve the volcano’s effect on the wine, which is essential and when Rosato is made like this, also profound. This is a specific kind of salty, to Bosco’s vineyard and the mascalese that grows. Just three hours or less skin contact, quick maceration, no thought to colour, as with every wine in this portfolio, the place on Versante Nord is the heart of each and every matter. Already two years old, evolving very slowly and there is no reason to think it will not continue this way for another two or three more. Tranquility but also energy. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted May 2023 and September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Only nerello mascalese as per the norm for Etna Rosato DOC and another salty little number with satisfying juiciness and grip. Direct, unadorned, almost no barrel, perhaps just a few percent. Straight fermentation, let it sit and ride. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

With Alberto Graci, Giuseppe Russo and John Szabo M.S.

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Nice and smoky Etna Bianco from Alta Mora though the fruit is equally adamant about gaining your trust. The smoulder equalized by the pulpy flesh of fresh bites into orchard fruit and a touch of finishing spice. Not the most complex but surely robust for the category. Last tasted May and September 2024

Solid and well made Etna Bianco in the ways of respect and tradition, ample, fulsome, substantial and structured for a wine that will drink well three-plus years forward. Citrus mainly, both lemon and lime, cool, not quite minty but surely like fresh summer basil and then a pinch of salt at the finish. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Bianco DOC Petralava 2023

Soda and neutral fruit intro which is par for the Etna Bianco course and certainly not unexpected. In other words mineral led, volcanic obviously and yet cool, gelid, mildly if sweetly botanical. A shot in the dark, unexpected and how can you not be thankful for a wine of this stature you knew nothing about. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Outis 2022

Fruit up front but in a botanical way, less basaltic mineral salty and more sapid as a result. Still it carries a set of elements that conceptualize the Bianco, however the peachiness and sweet preserved citrus set this one up to be a mellow sort of affair. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco DOC Chianta 2021

A more important label for Biondi and therefore aged an extra year ahead of release. Chianta the top Bianco cru and clearly a matter of longer maceration magnified by the extra aging. Not only noticed in hue but that natural salve texture settling while also dissolving nicely on the palate. A more interesting and satisfying iteration to speak credibly for the winemaking intent and also a matter of style. Then some crispiness and crunch to speak for captured and persistent freshness. Fine work. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Sweetly aromatic waft in a memory of cotton candy at the fair sort of way. Palate tells another story, truly lemony and in a current one-dimensional phase. The carricante has gone into slumber, which is unsurprising and so best not to touch any bottles until the Spring of 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Reserved, not reductive but neither open nor gregarious. A smoulder of volcanics and wood aging, just an aromatic wisp of flint and notable verdancy. The greens are also driven by the place and Cavaliere gives in just this way. Low, slow and with a time lapse release of controlled power. Really quite remarkable Etna Bianco from this contrada. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Calderara vineyards are 40-45 years of age and the harvest happens a week later, in the second week of October. Cement and large casks, 60-40, 10-12 months, brought back together and bottled. Saltier than the Bianco because the vineyard is so full of lava stone, a 100-plus year old eruption with brown basaltic stone. Very focused and precise though more power than 2021. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Sul Vulcano 2021

Quite a taut and wound Etna Bianco, not unusual for the vintage and though anything but lean – my this is tight. Mountain white in every respect and one of the finest if also precise Bianci ever produced at Donnafugata. Exemplary for the DOC, speaking to the mineral slats, elements and ways but also reasons for how lava flows have affected what will happen to vines farmed with industrious respect. Frames Etna Bianco in a serious if surely satisfying way. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco DOC Gamma 2021

Gamma is more aromatic than most with its mix of candied and floral but also spicy and so nasturtium or marigold are considered. The transitions are bold if seamless and the next stage is where things really take a turn to excitement. Moving away from the tight reduction and into bold flavours, variegated and layered, of fruit but of course minerals and elements that deduce then decide what an Etna Bianco is all about. Crisp, crunchy, biting and lengthy, all decidedly essential attributes of a rebel Bianco. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Zottorinotto, Balza Delle Poiane 2022

Some reduction from a specific cru and designation, that being Cavanera Balza delle Poiane within the northerly contrada of Zottorinotto. Herbal as well, fresh sprung spring glade of ferns and wild allium, trillium and the local Ginestra. Plenty of substantial fruit and truthfully so much going on. As far as Etna Bianco is concerned this should be considered a big wine, the kind that can be enjoyed by lovers of full-bodied chardonnay. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco DOC Muscamento 2022

Purchased the palmento in 2006, fully restored and what Michaela Luca calls “a very romantic place.” A Bianco called “Muscamento” (due to labelling bureaucracy) from the Contrada “Moscamento” at 650m on the northeast part of L’Etna. Just three hectares and 8,000-9,000 total production with this being the single-vineyard label. A blend, of 60 percent carricante and (40) catarratto. As floral as it gets for Etna Bianco with honeysuckle and ginger root. Lemon and lime flavours, clean, fresh and truly amenable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The work of Barolo’s Davide Rosso who came to L’Etna in 2016. Straightforward Bianco, neither predictive nor oxidative, tight or loose but somewhere comfortably in between. Goldilocks, between hard and soft, fruit and mineral, an equality of both. Solid, unassuming and yet perfectly representative Etna Bianco. Wood spirit and spice is felt on the back end. Rosso may need to make Bianco for 10 years before greatness arrives. His past work with chardonnay in Bourgogne can only serve to speed up the understanding of carricante. Would not put it past him to get there even sooner. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Only Nerina, San Lorenzo and Feudo were made in 2023 due to a challenge from rain, mildew and less fruit availability. No worries about quality however and Nerina is about as full pulp-fleshy and developed as it has ever been. The acids travel up and down the sides of the palate in the ways of striking Etna Bianco and here Russo finds the road back, each and every time. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

“A wine of mystery,” says Alberto Graci, “very intriguing for me.” Flinty and scrubby at the same time, energy and vibrancy laying in waiting, a buzz behind the curtain and a soil purposed into the 100 percent carricante that Graci’s team and now also we know the wine will want to explode with flavours a year, or more rightly two from now. So tight but you can feel it, the linear nature looking ahead and time will bring about something social form that mystery. Unquestionably one of L’Etna’s finest ’22s. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A mix of all four contradas; Muganazzi, Arcurìa, Feudo di Mezzo and Santo Spirito. A mix of Mediterranean scrub and vibrancy, looking for that balance between and finding it. Really fine precision and salinity, length is outstanding for villages level Bianco. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Fruit is drawn from the steepest of slopes surrounding the pond within an amphitheatre that is an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. Tiny micro-climate within the 15 hectares of the estate, mainly carricante (80 percent) with a smaller portion of cattaratto, neutral and primary when this young, needing time to find its expression. Again the clarity and freshness are proper but the neutrality makes it hard to see where this will go and what it will become. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Bianco DOC 2022

The 80 percent carricante with (20) cattaratto grows on the steepest of slopes within the estate’s amphitheatre in surround of a natural pond that are all part an extinct volcanic crater on the Gelsomina property. A small micro-climate inside of 15 hectares for a Bianco fruit forward and when young, so easy to drink. Unsurprising to find this perfectly clean, fresh and direct, a matter of just five months in stainless steel. Perfect for the many and the willing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Sweet aromatic perfumes, candied florals and white peach per se, a preserved lemon edging to limoncello. Lemony flavours, fine, simple and preparative to set the Bianco up for a modicum of representative success. Good and plenty but not quite exciting, complex or wholly substantial. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Serena and Valeria Costanzo – Palmento Costanzo

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

A cuvée of all parcels from different contrade, including the homefront Santo Spirito, along with Cavaliere. On average 90 percent carricante with (10) catarratto. Only raised in stainless steel, persistently fresh and if any region in the world might be compared with it would be Chablis AOC, direct, salty, smart and widely purposed. Last tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2022

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2021

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Bianco DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2022

From Contrada Marchesa near Solicchiata at 750m, a property through Pietro Giovanni’s father-in-law with vines around 100 years old, of the passion and at the heart of the contrada. As unique as it gets for Etna Bianco, 100 percent carricante, ripe yet certainly not honeyed and wood a driver with a white cocoa note that alters perception at a certain level. Some savour as well, brushy style, curious and raising the overall levels of interest. The flavours and textures combine for substantial, if also layered appeal. This may turn secondary sooner rather than later but the level of intersecting interest should only increase. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

Archinieri comes at us with that Pietradolce mix of confidence and generosity because well, vineyards and expertise. A Bianco that must be great because the makers demand top quality from field to table and all the markers here are present, defined and accounted for. Ideal reasoning, seasoning and style. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Taccione 2022

A singular Bianco labeled within Contrada Taccione for Planeta’s cantina located in Feudo di Mezzo and when you are the sole (known) contributor you make, transmit and valourize the rules. Pulp, acumen and circumstance establish and disperse layers of lava-fueled feelings, initiate discourse and bring about results to say this is Etna Bianco of balance and mountain reform. Not the acid intensity of some, nor the flowery pot gratuity of others. Nor does it reside indiscriminately or disinterestedly in between – no it makes a great pronouncement of elevation, mountain experience and intention. Exceptional Etna Bianco. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Quantico Etna Bianco DOC 2018

A few years have passed but my how this 2018 has hung onto its freshness despite some skin contact involved in the early process. Maturity is recognized in the platinum gold hue, subtle caramelization and next level developing complexities. May not keep for several years more but at nearly six years of age it is special. Last tasted September 2024

Just two years older than the ’20 and a marked difference, especially in aromatics. Much warmer year but the exotica and tropical fruit really stand out in this 2018. Cherry blossom, lime cordial and a litchi or longan effect, almost feeling boozy but the alcohol (at 13 percent) is the same as 2020. That said the palate is much more similar, less advanced and feeling fresher. Lots of fruit here, full of energy with a long lasting impression. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Rupestre Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The private label of Terre Darrigo winemaker Rosario Raciti grown in the Contrada of Pietramarina and vinified in the company’s cantina. Only carricante and an old lava flow location with 14 year-old vines planted by Rosario’s father. A unique saltiness and mineral intensity clearly attributed to the contrada despite the young age of the vines. Lean, direct and pointed, sharp and just the beginning of the story. Only 8,000 bottles in 2023. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Buonora 2023

Only carricante and just has that look of a wine you expect to be extremely cold when it’s really a matter of a strong, sweetly phenolic presence. Herbal, like basil granita and a different sort of salinity owing to the specificity of Tascante’s Pianodario gravelly volcanic sands. Also owing to harvest time after a most challenging vintage which gave smaller, more concentrated berries with high skin to pulp ratios. Sees only stainless steel, for good reason and the effect triples down on this Bianco’s style. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2022

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Sciaranuova 2016

The 2016 carricante takes the ’22 tasted alongside to another extreme. Now a return to a full blown aromatically romanticized effect with honey, orange blossom, sweet concentrated herbs, then into a downy, mature and creamy softness. Curious if well past prime with no good reason to complain about a Bianco conceived during its earlier stages of experimentation and understanding. You can tell the first two to three years would have had no problem convincing of greatness within the style it was made. Tasted September 2024

Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The Santo Spirito area has traditionally been devoted to Rosso and so grapes need to be brought in to make the Etna Bianco. Not 100 percent carricante yet the single contrada whites are. Remember that old vineyards would house five to seven percent white grapes and so here 20-30 percent would include minella, cattaratto, inzolia and grecanico. There is a gelid solidity to the texture and structure, inclusive of the white grapes hand-plucked out of the red vineyards. Makes for a complicated yet complex cuvée, not about parochial purity but instead an assemblage that speaks to bio and varietal diversity. There is notable extract and even some tannin involved for a Bianco you would want to drink every single day. With thanks to salinity that does the work from acidity. If only there were more of 2023, but such is the nature of farming in adversarial vintages. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Calderara Sottana 2023

“Such a stunning vineyard that I believe will actually improve the Calderara,” says Marc de Grazia. Where Bianco can help to elevate the Rosso by association and osmosis. A carricante with more volume and depth than the wines from the south and east of L’Etna but we know many will not only appreciate but also prefer the style of those Bianci grown in warmer areas. As such the Calderara Sottana sees barrel fermentation, in 350L tonneaux and 10 hL foudres. Now we are getting into a Bourgogne comparison, Meursault first and foremost though some will consider Premier Cru, Right bank Chablis, Fourneaux coming to mind more than most. In the end all that matters is finding the sweet spot in every vintage to express place, in terms of wood size, time and methodology used. We can be reminded that Dibourdieu is a big influence on de Grazia, for whatever that is worth. “If you don’t have a compass it’s not sailing, it’s what Dibourdieu called vagabondage. You need to have an idea of the answer you’re looking for.” Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco DOC Montalto 2023

Montalto, “high mountain,” a 950m plot on L’Etna’s southern slope. Another Bianco that does not like being fermented in wood and so steel only aids and abets to maintain carricante purity. For the first time a Terre Nere white just feels truly salty, mineral extraction expressed through Bianco, as opposed to elemental sapidity. “You have to go higher as the heat increases,” says Marc de Grazia, “to extract perfumes and find acidity.” There is a savoury honeyed aspect that reminds of chenin blanc and the length is determined by old vines. Silex again which takes a mind to Loire more than Chablis. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2022

Reductive in a most protective, protractive and progressive way because the burst of citrus screamed forth is seriously intensive. Well yes but it would behoove one to think in terms of elements and minerals over more than merely fruit. Wild and frantic even, excitability factor run off the charts and the palate, not to mention spirit seriously awakened. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Rosso DOC d’Aetna 2023

Presumably a mix of of Blandano and Praino, which incidentally seem to be siblings from two different mothers and so the deAetna label is a blend in two-parts. More Praino is would seem, gelid and cool, a lemon-yellow plum granita of an Etna Bianco. Fine and solid enough though quite generalized as a local, eastern side of Etna expression. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

A few years now in bottle and so this 2019 has developed next level style, further character and stage presence. Honeyed and luxe, acids sweetened with a lively if sour edge and then comes that extract that urged the totality from the start. A fine and confident wine with time on its side and a healthy perspective for Etna Bianco as the kind to serve at dinners and tastings all over the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Bianco DOC 2023

A stone’s throw down the mountain is Lingualossa, of a terroir above 500 and upwards to 600m in a natural amphitheatre taken over by the Bacci family from a bankrupt farm and in disrepair. Restored to a beautifully rustic terraced set of vineyards set between the volcano and the sea. Salty carricante indeed with phenolic grip and yet acidity keeps the drive alive. So little was made because of a hailstorm in the first week of May that took out most of the vines even before rains and Perenospera mildew arrived to attack much of Etna’s northern vineyards. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Theresa Eccher Etna Bianco DOC Alizée 2021

As per the vintage and an estate taking full advantage this is quite ripe and open-knit Etna Bianco, simplified and moving forward into maturity with haste. Comes away with a bit of bitterness and honeyed savour but otherwise drinks well enough. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Tornatore has simply, unequivocally and decidedly defined the genre that is Etna Bianco for world markets at an affordable price. The 2023 vintage was not so easy to do this way because mildew pressure and low yields were the obstacle. And yet like so many the acids are intense to insure true Etna mountain spirit is elevated as it needs be. This does precisely what wants and needs for a $25-30 Bianco. All must partake and become believers in what is possible. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

An Etna Bianco on the extreme volcanic side because the aromas and flavours just feel like sucking on a mouthful of basaltic lozenges. Cool, gelid and distinctly mineral on the outside, liquid ethereal and almost mentholated within. Don’t come looking for a burst of fruit, not by citrus, stone nor orchard though there is this green melon note coming late. Nor is this a high acid example, but also not so very botanical. Just bloody volcanic – which speaks to Chiuse Vidalba. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Part of the production is from a vineyard located outside of the allowable (if arbitrarily and self-serving organization of geographic definition) for the DOC regulations. Yet the fruit from these 40 year-old carricante vines are special to Carmelo Vecchio. His is a true to real volcanic life skin-contact Bianco without the slings, constraints and arrows of pedagogical natural wine. Just the methodological facts to capture, elevate and celebrate the purity of grape variety come from where it lives. A well made example is a thing of beauty and in this case, a premise of perfection. Sapidity wins out over salinity and yet your palate may figure to feel more of the latter. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Carricante Sciare Vive 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Tasted side by side with the 2022 (and also 2016) but here the extra year on a skin contact carricante solicits the first stage of age development. Just on the nose really, quite honeyed with a Ginestra savoury spice and a vague saffron note considered. More so honeysuckle when you combine the two and so there feels like a connection, re-imaging or re-imagining of chenin blanc. Palate presence lingers and length is befitting of ’22. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Piè Franco Carricante – Terre Darrigo

Etna Bianco Superiore

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2023

Aromatic volume is turned up through the combination of vintage and Superiore designation which both repeats and magnifies the great fleshy chew for the accessorized palate. Some greens here though they are sweet to commit and then induce satisfaction. Also a great basaltic saltiness that causes this Bianco to linger long after you thought it might not and you are extremely grateful for the extension. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Villagrande 2021

Just two years older than the ’23 Superiore (classico) and here the Contrada-specific Etna Bianco maintains freshness while defending the integrity of its municipal steading. This is a reduced volcanic saltiness but even more so it speaks to being a mountain wine in the most credible of ways. Rich and expressive, so finely tart and just so very impressive. Stays with your palate for minutes on end and for that you say brava. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Salvino Benanti – Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Pietramarina 2019

A current release which follows the Benanti rule of waiting four-plus years. Only stainless and already hinting at aromatic volume but also length, with petrol coming around the corner. Kind of in the vein of say riesling but even more so sémillon and more Hunter Valley than Bordeaux in that regard. Acidity is obviously lower and phenolics broader – but you get the drift. Will gain curiosity, if at the expense of freshness but that feels like the Superiore point. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Calcagno Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Primazappa 2022

Important if also essential mountain label for Calcagno in Superiore clothing and ’22 shines brightly, even if this is not the summit of summits as far as vintage is concerned. No conceding or submissive behaviour mind you and instead great spirit, energy and vitality. Crisp bites of orchard fruit doused under lemon-lime citrus for real spark. A scintillant Etna Bianco with some fine chiseling and structured for aging. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Kudos 2021

Kudos is far more botanical than that of Gamma, of green herbs and some herbaceous meanderings. More tonic and fine bitters though truthfully lemon in so many ways with some pith and it tastes like roasted Greek lemon potatoes. A second bottle seems to ramp up the intensity though things stay relatively the same. Superiore is a different animal and it feels like Curtaz has gone a bit more pied du cuve natural in the approach. Surely not an accidental wine and the jury stays out, not hung, but not making a final decision. Will do so after tasting another bottle, preferably sooner rather than later. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Rocca d’Alba 2022

First kick at the Fischetti can and it must be said where have these wines been in this life? In others’ glasses and now here for a look at possible grandezza. Big attempt at extraction, squeezing every bit of 100 percent carricante juice which means tomato leaf and water, but also acetic belief. Old wood is very present and leads the feels for a rustic Bianco that may not exactly find precision, nor finesse neither, but its character is built from soil, soil, soil. The earth is all in and it translates with the aforementioned acetic tang. Just 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted twice, September 2024

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2023

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino Frontemare 2023

Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Salice 2023

Only carricante from the the town of Milo, five year-old vines in the place where more rain falls and reds can not really be made. No more than 1000 hectares of vineyard farmed by 20 producers recently and collectively coming into its own. Wines now made by high profile estates including Barone di Villagrande, Benanti and Marc de Grazia. Soils are unique, having come from the collapse odf the side of the volcano’s east side. Deep, fractured and then also shallow soils so compact it’s hard for roots to penetrate. Less humid as a result and the best for ripening carricante. Exposure is key because the sun disappears behind the mountain earlier than most, though says de Grazia, “650-750m is the sweet spot. Adding “a challenge but not a suicide.” Extremely steep, two years to rebuild the terraces and here is the result. Imagine the views of the Ionian Sea with a glass, wildflowers everywhere and a sapidity so different to the gifts of the northern slope. Salice is the willow and that weeping only adds to the demure, but in a botanical, mellow and properly astringent way. Just like silex, but volcanic from a wine with no wood in play. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Il Musmeci Bianco 2021

Il Muscemi Bianco is another matter altogether because of two aspects. More taut reserve instigated by reductively protected ability plus an aromatic accountability that screams “mountain wine!” Scintillant behaviour, a bit eccentric mind you but how one could not be amused if clearly enthralled with the intensity. Once again we speak of volcanics and mysterious elements with fruit out of the conversation because it was picked early and with acidity in total mind, but in the end the lava matters most. Needs years to settle in, especially because of the need to assimilate its wood. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino 2022

Eastern slope on Etna, in the town of Milo where only here the Etna Bianco can be labeled with the addendum “Superiore.” From young five year-old carricante vines grown on Alberello at 650m by Fabio Stantino and his family where the conditions are more humid, namely because of the closer proximity to the sea. Cool, gelid and stylish. The kind of Etna Bianco with that mineral, gemstone quality while also one of the more yellow-fleshed fruit pulpy examples juiced by Sicilian orange. Gets white pepper and mango powder exotic at the humid finish. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May and September 2024

Etna Rosso

Alice Bonaccorsi Etna Rosso DOC Valcerasa Rosso 2019

Truly ripe cherry, maturing and for Bonaccorsi’s Rosso surely well into the drinking zone. Wealth of cloying oak, resins and overripe behaviour mean that zone should already be behind us. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Alta Mora Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2020

Big barrel feel on Guardiola from Alta Mora and some fruit maturity to say the twain is yet to be abridged. As high toned as Rosso will come, red fruit swells and a dusty volatility that reminds of Rioja. Just feels akin to aging in American wood. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Alessandro and Loredana Serughetti

Alessandro Serughetti Etna Rosso DOC Venturo 2022

Only 700 bottles were made of Alessandro Serrugheti’s Venturo, which transliterates to “next” and generationally speaking that is exactly what he and wife Loredona are to L’Etna. Their corner of Rovitello is rich in volcanic ingredients, of potassium, iron, and magnesium in the lava flow soils of their old (and qualifiedly historic) nerello mascalese vineyard. Alessandro dates them back 60 years and admits there to be a few cappuccio plants mixed in for one of his first attempts at Rosso that is simply grippy, liquid chalky, textural, structured and brimming with dark fruit. Ages 10 months in tonneaux. It’s basically a profound basaltic matter of this place within the greater volcanic place. Greatness is coming. Coming up next. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Antichi Vinai 1877 Etna Rosso DOC Petralava 2019

Floral with a pretty perfume of fruit to join along and the effect is a fête for the olfactory senses. Neither lithe nor delicate in terms of flavour profile and punch yet the substantial and layered effect is something notable. Just a smidgen overdressed and no, subtlety is not the middle name but overall there are fine and appreciable aspects if this Rosso to get behind. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC San Nicolo’ 2022

San Nicolo’ steps up more than a tier in Etna Rosso terms as compared to Outis because its freshness and fragrance are that much more intense. This smells like Etna should, with southeastern slope warmth behind its ripeness and acidity acting as the driver for that freshness. Still it presents a challenge to sort through and figure out the how, what and why. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Azienda Agricola Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso DOC Outis 2017

Notable wood on the nose, spiced and like the Bianco also savoury in an herbal-botanical way. Suits the fruit though the aromas lower, deepen into baritone and struggle to rise up with ease. The barrel is very involved with the flavours and somewhat unrelenting though one should not question the substance of this Rosso. Then again it’s already five to six years of age and so maturity will now beget declension. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Truly pretty Rosso perfume yet the palate’s hard shell is candied and a bit cloying. The barrel is used in a symptomatic way, driving the fruit to places it may not have wished to go. The combination of that and volatility not in check leads this down and artificial and medicinal path, as a result. The ’21 Bianco Superiore is glorious but the Rosso is a miss. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Barone Di Villagrande Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Ilice 2020

Monte Illice 2022 is in better steading than the Rosso 2021 because its volatile compounds lay low and do much less to distract from the prize. Still the use of wood is heavy and so a resinous but also emulsified feeling is ascertained. Not quite soy but certainly lactic and creamy. A much better wine however and one that will age well over a five-plus year run. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Serra Della Contessa Alberello Centenario 2018

Benanti Viticoltori was founded in 1988, one of the pioneers on L’Etna. Two Piedmontese oenologists, Gian Domenico Negro and Marco Monchiero, along with Prof. Rocco Di Stefano of the Experimental Institute for Oenology in Asti and Prof. Jean Siegrist of the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique of Beaune combined to exert profound influence on Giuseppe Benanti and his wines. Oenological consultancy has molded and developed Benanti’s wines, from Salvo Foti to Enzo Calli, now with Benanti for 25 years. Serra Della Contessa is a field blend of the two nerello out of a 100-plus year-old bush vine vineyard (documents say 1910s), own grafted and original, bit of a unicorn for Benanti and a pioneer, just like Giuseppe Benanti. Not labeled as pre-phylloxera because “it’s difficult to prove,” but surely from resistant vines. The same vineyard (Monte Serra) also makes for a Contrada wine from the younger vines. Large barrels for two years, one in tank and then finally two in bottle, not unlike a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. There is a chalkiness and serious structure here but the Grandi Botti do little to distract, thicken or overarch any semblance of density to this blend. Serra della Contessa dates back to the countess that owned the state in 1472. Cleary one of not only L’Etna’s but all of Sicily’s most important structured and age-worthy red wines. Would love to see this agin in 2033. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Rovitello Alberello Centenario 2018

From North Etna, as opposed to the sister Serra della Contessa label that comes from the home-front vineyard on the mountain’s southeast slope. Picked two weeks later from a cooler location and still the same concept, that being a field blend of nerello mascalese and cappuccio, planted in the 1920s and yes it’s possible there are other varieties mingling in the ancient material of these bush vines. Essentially pre-phylloxera and here Rovitello is softer and cooler, almost gelid and less warmth meets weight, though Monte Serra is not what you would call a wine of density. The acids, harmony and understatement are really fine but to be honest the Contessa is showing better and with more impressive structure today. And yet Rovitello is a magnificent red blend from old DNA in its own-right. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted September 2024

Viticoltori Benanti

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte Serra 2022

From L’Etna’s southeastern sector on the mountain’s semi-circle and one of fine if also light glycerol texture. Truly pretty and delicate for Rosso, the kind we tell people about in the way we often describe pinot noir from the Côtes de Beaune. This is indeed as closely resembling that kind of varietal-appellation relationship as any on this volcanic mountain. Really fine, precise and softening though structure is not a problem. The feels are of older lava flows and how they effect nerello mascalese. Obviously not pinot noir. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Calderara Sottana 2022

Benanti is not just a southeastern Etna specialist but an estate that wrote the book on the making of fine, precise, finessed and structured wines from that sector aboard the mountain. There is more power (albeit restrained) from northern slope Calderara Sottana and a sense of rich chalky liquidity that speaks to the age of lava flows and how vines are raised on older volcanic soils. Also the 700m of elevation and a place that works best with nerello mascalese, especially with north-facing plantings. The transmission is purposed, trenchant and near formidable. More chewy texture here and more favourably or gainfully nerello mascalese but when you think of it alongside Monte Serra than the options laid out are yours to choose. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Franco and Giusi Calcagno

Calcagno Etna Rosso DOC Calderara 2021

Ah such an intoxicant of Calderara perfume coaxed and on exhibit just the way we would hope it should. Mind you there is some wood to deal with though high standard used will become quality worth resolved. More liquid chalky an Etna Rosso than many but again the execution will beget harmony because the wine is already expressive and frankly distinguished right there. Give this promising 2021 another 18 months and its canto will warble harmonic, pure and long. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Solo nerello mascalese, made with the grapes from all three Contradas, 10 months in steel, followed by six months in bottle. Dictionary entry though it’s just the first vintage of this specific Rosso without Cappuccio. These are nerello plants grafted onto the old cappuccio and to be honest there is more purity and focus this way. Spicier, in a way and more energy. Will take a few vintages to find its solo artist stride. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Only nerello mascalese from 35 year-old vines, big barrel for 14 months. Even though Feudo di Mezzo is the largest Etna Nord contrada there is such consistency and a thread of wine effect that runs through the 20-plus producers. Cottanerà heeds and abides by the vineyard to produce a balanced FdM worthy of the name. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May and September 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Nerello Mascalese

Plants are 85 years of age on four hectares but this wine is a selection from three tonnes of grapes to make only 1,800-2,000 bottles. Riserva, so it remained in cask for two years plus two more in bottle. Depth, breadth, spices and richness, the most full bodied and textural Rosso, tannins sweet and long-chained with time still needed to resolve all that is here. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted May and September 2024

Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Marchesa 2020

Marchesa 2020 seems to tell a contrada story in a most positive light with its effusive, fresh and yet also concentrated way. A specific style to be sure and a layered one but those layers are closely knit with their weave of ultra specific fibre. There is some reduction which is not a surprise and then some good old-fashioned structure to see this age quite admirably. A different charm and a good one from this well made Rosso. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Purgatorio 2020

Bold and trenchant Etna Rosso from the one and only legend that is Federico Curtaz and one to take great time getting to know. Ripe to be sure but also acids in stride with fruit influenced by Etna’s newer (relatively speaking) northern lava flows providing the freshness and finesse. There are some herbaceous moments that put this in a savoury place and in the end the diversity and complexity renders this a potent while oh so intriguing iteration of Etna Rosso. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted September 2024

Federico Curtaz Etna Rosso DOC Il Pukkaria 2020

Consistency and a thread of similarity runs from Purgatorio through Pukkaria but the latter is not the bold expression that is the former. Sweeter perfume, more glycerol texture and emulsified acidity make this closer to the heart and without the same level of grip by structure. Still the herbal-herbaceous feels are there and some reduction to hold a part of the wine back. Give it a year and the ties that bind will loosen to free this wine of brine and tang. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Pretty much what they call Classico as far as Etna Rosso is concerned with a nerello mascalese of concentration yet delicate and shiny enough to speak generally if abidingly for an appellation. Wood is not nothing and will need some time to melt in but this is clearly a Rosso for Rosso sake, raised properly and equipped to live comfortably. A five year example that could be poured for anyone to explain the combination of style, varietal and place. Feels just a bit natural with faint Brettanomyces noted in the end. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Federico Graziani Etna Rosso DOC Rosso Di Mezzo 2022

A sturdy and well wooded Rosso from Feudo di Mezzo labeled as Rosso di Mezzo because why not though the nomenclature could suggest a second wine to some. Like Rosso di Montalcino or even lesser, Rosso di Toscana. We know the intent but when you look at some other Italian denominations this becomes somewhat perplexing. In any case this travels down the middle of the Mezzo road (wink, wink) to deliver a Rosso of medium body, acidity, structure and finish. On par with Graziani’s Rosso DOC, both good wines though with little to distinguish between the two. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Fischetti Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Gran Conte 2014

An alberello-trained, pre-phylloxera nerello mascalese of century vines. A survivalist, having been through at least one world war. A mature, oxidative and fully resolved Rosso in secondary character with no going back. Gifts that old Amarone feel without the jam or density, but age has put this in a known time frame for they who fully appreciate old wines. Freshness is not part of the package. This ’14 is the current release and once again 700 bottles are produced. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Frank Cornelissen Etna Rosso DOC Munjebel 2021

As per the explanation of the erudite gentleman from Houston (by way of San Diego) the meaning of Munjebel informs us to be a “dialectal toponym for Mt. Etna and by the way akin to the Sicilian Muncibeddu or the Italian Mongibello, meaning monte bello or beautiful mountain.” And so it truly is in Etna Rosso form, of a purity and clarity that bemuses but also pleases us so. Chewy Rosso with that natural settling on the palate like a savoury salve slowly dissolving without dissipating or disappearing from consciousness. Stays with our thoughts and feelings for a good long time. Fine 2021, as expected and confirmed without a single moment of having conformed. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Giovanni Rosso Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Quite the bright and ultra fresh nerello mascalese number with what feels like fruit taken from young and impressionable vines, and as of yet to deliver full out structure. Easy access, fresh and free drinking, no big questions posed and a Rosso that simply drinks really well. The length and consistent presence of flavours and textures speak to the maker’s affinity with mutually relatable red varieties, in this case nerello’s spiritual and physiological connection to nebbiolo. Then again Davide Rosso’s work with both Domaine Jean Grivot and Domaine Denis Mortet have no doubt influenced and introduced the treatment of pinot noir towards his work with mascalese. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

A very warm and dry vintage making for a taut, chalky and savoury nerello mascalese (with 10 percent cappuccino). This next ‘a Rina takes off where 2021 left off and only Feudo is as consistent an Etna Rosso as this. Chalky red cherry, a leathery aspect and drying tannins that speak about 2022 in both toasty and positive ways. Crisp ’22, of bay and liquorice, salty volcanics and good length, though not in the league of Feudo and San Lorenzo. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

From the highest section in the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard, bush vines, very old. Delivers ultra light and conversely powerful di Mezzo freshness, but from this elevation at a much higher rate and with an extension of vibrancy plus energy. More verticality and sweetness of nerello fruit like almost no other. Resides in a state of grace upon the palate and though it hovers just a millimetre above, there still feels like the fruit, acidity and finest tannin are collectively making full contact. Remarkable. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive, so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

The home vineyard, great vintage and that should not be questioned because frankly it simply can’t be denied. If nothing else the intensity of purpose comes through from the start. More depth and crunch, further concentration and breadth, still austere and working through its tasks, machinations and intentions. Big wine from 2021. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

Longer maceration because these are stems that ripen better than anywhere else and so Alberto Graci tastes and decides how long to go. Usually 60 days and 2019 was right around that number. You can feel them, mostly though not 100 percent ripe and yet that savoury-verdant note works so well to create a spice mix and seasoning that extends the breadth of the fruit. Do not come here for heavy concentration or weight because there is restraint but also expect some austerity. Really needs time and will eventually settle into it’s technicolor skin. A compact wine that will deliver a slow release of energy. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted May and September 2024

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Etna Rosso DOC 2021

A blend of 80 percent nerello mascalese with (20) nerello cappuccio, raised in 500L cask. Ascends with warm grape must character, fresh fig and tree pod fruit. On the warmer and darker side for Etna Rosso, already into some maturity with an almost Ripasso-like feel on the palate. Less typicity for Etna Rosso without a real sense of place. Either the grapes need to be picked (even) earlier or the winemaking will need to scale back and press as gentle as possible. Times have changed. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Massimo Lentsch Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Spice and resins on the aromatics, wood-derived and unresolved. Earthiness, of fresh laid sod and a chalky undercut of stone. A bit rustic, as they say. Drink 2025-2027. Tasted September 2024

Sebastiano Vinci – Mecori

Mecori Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Muganazzi Duo 2022

They are Serena & Sebastiano, Mecori’s “Duo,” reiterated from the special Muganazzi Contrada and vines planted in 1927 as a reductive one, protected and insular, unresolved and therefore undefined. Air is a friend of this nerello mascalese from one (soon to be two and a half) hectares and agitation an even more important accomplice to release what charm lays low and behind. There is real richness and layering beneath the shell which more than accidentally and incidentally defines the contrada and what it can achieve. Spicy and spiced, chalky, massively tannic and the kind of structure few Etna Rosso are wont to hold. A big wine so far away from ready, currently grippy and austere, tension in charge and time the operative to effect any kind of significant change. Average production is 4,000 bottles, soon to reach approximately 10. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted September 2024

Giulia Monteleone

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Monteleone 2022

Fine perfumes and just as promising spirit turn upwards with even further generosity from an Etna Rosso of fruit as pure as any. A wine of harmony and like a well-written song sung with grace. Not the most complex or complicated Rosso but who would not bask in the glow of a glass any place and any time. Clarity and purity are what matters for Etna Rosso with its feet on the ground. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Rumex 2022

Rumex, a.k.a. Dock or Sorrel, a perennial culinary herb. Also Rumex, Giulia Monteleone’s sister Rosso to Qubba, of 100 percent nerello mascalese grown at 680m in the volcanic sand and gravels of Contrada Pontale Palino. The vineyard is a natural “clos” encircled by Sciara (mounds of magmatic scoriae formed along lava flows). Rumex is not Qubba what with its brighter entry but also high tonality and elevated acidity. This also means volatility, in check and important for the style and effect of this Rosso. While Qubba is a Rosso for which to peer through ornate windows, Rumex offers a converse approach with much to chew and mull upon, many facets to look deeper into, parts to unravel and feelings to unlock. Must wait two more years before more answers are provided. Drink 2026-2030. Tasted September 2024

Monteleone Etna Rosso DOC Qubba 2021

Perhaps the most famous Islamic architectural example of a Qubba is the Green Dome in Medina, a cupola-shaped shrine built in 1837. In a way Monteleone’s Qubba feels like the representation of Giulia Monteleone’s short history aboard Versante Nord, a journey that began in 2017 and perhaps this Rosso’s extra year in bottle has contributed to the story. A nerello mascalese from a fine vintage that has come to a very great place. There is charm but even more so there is depth to this ’21. A structured wine just about arrived though not quite ready to open its doors and yet we feel like we are peering through the stained glass window of Jerusalem’s Qubba al-Sakhra. Or more realistically the nerello’s aperture but this is clearly coming from fine northern Etna terroir that ripens fruit, maintains acidity and give generously of its vines. Fully developed flavours, plenty of grip and many years are left to give. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2021

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

A nerello mascalese that sees 24 months in the troncone wooden vats from a vintage with its specific challenges but there is volume and depth. A Rosso that draws from all the available plots farmed by Palmento Costanzo. Spice and that feeling you get when you bite into dried fruit tree pods like bokser or carob. The finish is Etna balsamico, a mix of wild fennel, oregano and mint, but also some other dusty gariga. Last tasted September 2024

Spicy and floral, aromatically crisp and taut, wood a factor with plenty of seasoning. A bit sappy and edging into tang with flavours quite sharp and also dense but time will settle the score for all parts involved. A big and inky version of Nero di Sei and one to really sink your teeth into. Wait two years to do so. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2020

Always promising and spirited Rosso from the combination of producer and place which take full advantage of both its elevation and particular lava flow to effect beauty and age-ability. A swirl of glycerol comes away from sweet perfume and leads toward real time austerity to indicate not only a wine of substance but also one of aging probability. The concentration is buoyed by acidity and tannin in the ways of top shelf Etna Rosso. Fine vintage and work from the Palmento Costanzo team. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2019

Three further months in and no further changes or gains but just the status quo of primary fruit and a Rosso come from vineyard health with thanks to organics and this 1879 eruption derived volcanic terroir. Last tasted September 2024

Evolving nicely, now nearly ready to go, fruit still fresh enough and structure beginning to subside. A full bodied Etna Rosso from Santo Spirito in delivery of what the contrada and the vintage held in hand. Tasted May 2024

A vintage out of which the pre-phylloxera was produced from the contrada so just imagine the possibilities as they come from this all in for the vintage nerello mascalese. Feels like an extended maceration because the glycerol and unctuous textural pool are both at the crest of Etna Rosso heights. Oranges and cherries but more than anything old vines spirit and what just happened from out of these volcanic sands carried through to century and a half vines is something wholly and unequivocally other. Hints at balsamic reduction but the tannins and also acids are so fresh and so years is what it will take to take this anywhere new. The finest chalkiness imitates the soil and puts this in a league with some of Italy’s most important red wines. Up to you too decide which they are or don’t bother at all. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted May 2023

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito Pre Phylloxera 2020

Same grapes, different style of vinification from the pre-phylloxera section of the vineyard, therefore from material grown on the oldest vines. The extended skin contact is followed by a great and instructive polymerization of the phenolic compounds and when the skins sink down in the troncone the wine is racked and sent on its way into Stockinger Foudres. The tannin quality from the grapes coming off of old Santo Spirito vines are a velvet crush of plush fortified by exquisite volume. The wine moves fluidly and in harmony from start to finish, pausing only to see if you are paying full attention, then continuing to command attention seemingly without trying at all. Rosso this fine is deserving of its own place and time. Drink 2025-2035. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2020

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (Contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata with a look at varietal character in the vein of nebbiolo and sangiovese but the aging here is one third each steel, tonneaux and amphora. There is some depth to its hue but also proper Etnese transparency and being 2020 there is a sense of maturity on the nose. Amphora will add such an element, not to say the Rosso is passing over into secondary character but it is made with a specific style. Wood spice and amphora texture make this unique, again because Pietro di Giovanni is a winemaker free to choose his whimsy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Papa Maria Cuore Di Marchesa Etna Rosso DOC Cuore Di Marchesa 2019

The work of Pietro di Giovanni who also happens to be the oenological consultant to La Gelsomina. Papa Maria refers to first name and surname of the maternal grandmother and Pietro has been producing Cuore di (contrada) Marchesa since 2016. From nerello mascalese grown at 750m near to Solicchiata and 2019 show no further maturity as compared to 2020. Speaks not only to vintage but Pietro di Giovanni’s abiding by his contrada and climate. The vineyard is small (1.5 hectare) and the yields extremely low (4 tonnes per hectare). There is surely a style and an honesty here though with time these wines should become exceptional when they are designed with a just bit more restraint. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Passopisciaro Etna Rosso DOC Passorosso 2022

Properly reductive, a redacted quality to hold back the tears and also the years. Concentration and aura are the cards held up by the artistic austerity held out with the final hand yet to play because bets are still arriving on the table. My goodness what structure and intensity so please, stay focused and patient because many years are needed to settle the score. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC 2020

Fine perfume, handsome and inviting to set this up as a muscular yet taut and lean Rosso. Reductive and herbaceous, such a savoury and earthy example of a place within a place. Tannins are somewhat austere and gritty but they should settle and resolve. Palate presence does not follow a direct line from aromas but again, time will bring them closer and eventually together. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

The 2020 nerello mascalese from Contrada Santo Spirito is a meaty and gamy bruiser, sanguine and yet lifted with some fine volatility to nose. The right amount because the aromatic volume, palate depth and tannic freight are all equal partners working towards a common goal. That would be a full-bodied Etna Rosso with the stuffing and planning to age very well. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted May and September 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

A unicorn Etna Rosso and here from 2019 there has been some development though the wine is still ways away from full integration. Talking formidable structure, inclusive of tannins of a tight and variegated grain, running crosswise and painless because they usher fruit and urge acidity to always be a part of the fray. A total weave of Rosso sentiment, bringing emotion and pleasure without fail, to exult a vineyard as special as any in the world. One only need to stand over it to understand its power, insistence on restraint and the keys to unlock potential. Will turn heads and remain in light for a good long time. “Facts are nothing on the face of things. “Still waiting, still waiting, still waiting, still waiting.” Drink 2026-2037. Tasted May and September 2024

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Not a contrada specific Etna Rosso but more than 70 percent comes from Feudo di Mezzo in Passopiciaro. As juicy and glycol notable Rosso as there has ever been and silken would best describe the quality felt aboard the more than pleased and nurtured palate. Another wine that improves each vintage under the guidance of Patricia Tòth, in part because her favourite dogs hang around that winery next to the vineyard. Also because her experience and abilities have come to a most profound place. Love the spice masala on the finish. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May and September 2024

Quantico Etna Rosso DOC 2018

“Tough vintage,” admits Giovanni Raiti, with rain at harvest in October and lots of it. Selection was essential, careful maceration and pressing as well. What has resulted is a glycerol glide through texture incarnate with a fab silken palate holding court and more concentrated strength than thought possible. A wine to nose quickly and move forward to linger on that mouthfeel. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Rupestre

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2022

The name Rupestre refers to the 3,000 year-old Palmento found on the estate’s site in Contrada Pietramarina and the word essentially means “ancient.” Rosario Raciti worked in Portugal, Spain, New Zealand, Australia, Tuscany and Puglia before returning to the family farm in Castiglione di Sicilia. The style is so very much Rosario’s, reductive and closed, yet from Contrada Pietramarina the glycerol, silky organza texture and length are what make the case for potential greatness out of such a wine. Again vine age is less than 20 and so the best days are still to come. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Rupestre Etna Rosso DOC 2021

This just the third vintage for Rosario Raciti’s Etna Rosso from Contrada Pietramarina in in Castiglione di Sicilia. A perfumed nerello mascalese, unadorned and pure with glycerol marking the mouthfeel. Sweet and savoury spices and just a lovely natural swirl to not just the fruit but the whole composition. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario 2020

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2020

Old Sciaranuova vines are the impetus for concentration and experience in this soil-driven contrada specific Rosso for Alberto Tasca’s Tascante of L’Etna. A wholesome, fulsome and fully formed Rosso with the verity of a nerello mascalese-ness here that delivers the entirety of mountain experience with earthy, austere and drying tannins sure to elevate the long term goal and gain. Big Rosso but one of medium body that sets its heights and peaks to points achievable and five years forward will see real things indeed. Bravo to the team for getting this estate and this wine to where it needs to be. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted September 2024

Michele Brusaferri and Vittoria Cerniglia – Tasca d’Almerita Tascante

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2012

The inaugural vintage for the Tasca family’s Etna project and a more intense result because of initial experimentation with longer macerations. A very promising and in retrospect top quality but also age-worthy vintage, with lingering freshness battling against developing cherry stone bitters. As for overall maturity the ’12 has hung in admirably though wood and the pressed style have added up to this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Rampante 2020

Rampante is the biggest and broadest of the three Contrada Tascante, less ethereal and with more gainful force but it does so with impressive pronouncement. A comparative study however and still thus Rosso is transparent like its brethren. The fullness is a matter of contrada soil and subsequent style. Really quite unique for Etna Rosso, glycerol and silken texture in delivery of mouthfeel that few others will gift. Rampante yes but also Tascante, a way of raising and looking at nerello mascalese fruit with an eye to expression and fineness of tannin. There is some grippy austerity in the last part of this Rosso but one can’t help but feel the promise in its ways. Should age beautifully for 10 years easy. Drink 2024-2034. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 20° Anniversario 2022

A single contrada Rosso from Terre Nere from the young vines within Calderara Sottana, to celebrate Marc de Grazia’s 20 years of delivering nerello mascalese from his Etna estate. “The young vines have a vigour and an enthusiasm,” he says. “Bless them.” A blend of these precocious parcels and a cuvée that he surely feels is representative of what has been accomplished thus far, without diverting too far way from what has already been done. Their cumulative hue is always lighter and brighter than the rest of the wines. A fine design and effort that stays true to purity and finesse. Fine wine indeed. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted (twice), September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Aged 18 months instead of the usual 12, which the reds will almost always receive going forward. “The son of our vineyards and also neighbours that follow our protocol,” explains Marc de Grazia, “or those who are so good in their’s they don’t need to follow our protocol.” Fine introductory lesson in Etna Rosso now in session. Not so much a dictionary entry but more like the instructor itself to test our mettle and knowledge, to see if we are paying attention and gaining what we need to now and feel. Bright red fruit, some grip and structure with tannins that dry with preferable, positive and proper distinction. A wine that will see the single contrada wines of Terre Nere move from strength to strength. “A watershed vintage” says de Grazia. “The finest (non single contrada) Rosso we’ve ever made and will improve with age.” Last tasted September 2024

The “Villages” Rosso, blending youngest vines fruit from the various 50-plus parcels comprising half of the total production, including some cappuccio. There could be some montellado and other smallest quantities of red grape varieties involved. Interesting in that this effects a richer and naturally sweeter character than most Contrada or Cru wines. So getable and crushable, also a dictionary entry and teaching moment for what it means to be and taste like Etna Rosso. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted May 2023

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

Always the first to be harvested, almost certainly on October the 4th, give or take a few days of course. “Begins with harmony when young,” tells Marc de Grazia, “and born perfect.” Not entirely true and yet also not disengenous to say that because it will age extremely well. Yes 2022 is pretty, immediately gratifying and seductively perfumed already. Underneath are layers of feudal structure that may lay low below, unseen and unspoken, but they are there. The nerello mascalese equivalent of a hierarchical social structure characterized by a small ruling set of tannin over fruit peasantry working in exchange for protection. Maybe half the grip as compared to the other single contrada Etna Rosso but do not sleep on this subjugating power. Needs two year to initiate its integrations. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Moganazzi 2022

Moganazzi is a bit further east and slightly higher in elevation as compared with Feudo di Mezzo. All terraced, 70 year-old vines at 650-700m. Three parcels combining for one vineyard on the same hill. Marc de Grazia purchased them one at a time and he sees this wine in the vein of say Pommard or Nuit-Saint-Georges. In other words grip that needs two years to “mellow and obtain its luminosity.” True spirit of Etna Rosso’s grace and charm with as lithe and bright nerello mascalese as ever there could be. Fragrance and kick. Moganazzi is all that and secretly austere within the construct of its fine demure. A Rosso that makes you think but even more its makes you feel. Terrific emotion, control, concentration and expressiveness. Amazing wine. Drink 2025-2034. Tasted twice, September 2024

With Marc de Grazia – Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Guardiola 2022

Marc de Grazia considers Feudo di Mezzo and Moganazzi to be Premier Cru and while some producers feel that Guardiola is Grand Cru, he begs to differ. “Somewhere between the two,” he says. On the right hill and yet not quite there, maybe like the split opinion on Monte de Tonerre. Elevation up in the 900s transmits up as aromatic heights, expanse of perfume and yet also this sense of maturity. “A soprano of Rosso, a separation of crus with identity that implies discretion.” Refinement but also tannins that are compact, austere and like the bouquet, irreplaceable, in other words, not replicable. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

From 70,000 year-old soils which makes a connection with other Rosso raised on the same terroir, like Calderara Sottana. A place that consistently provides quality for fine wines, from Premier to Grand Cru. This is the oration from Marc de Grazia who repeatedly uses Bourgogne as the reference point. “San Lorenzo of all the wines is the one that requires more patience,” says de Grazia. “To reveal its glory.” There is an aroma that reminds of Guardiola as well, a mix of restrained bursts and maturity which tells us the wine will be more expressive after a bottle is open for 24 hours. Youthful is the understatement. Drink 2026-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Dagala Di Bocca d’Orzo 2022

The tiny vineyard that survived the 1981 lava flow, a parcel that only produces a maximum of 1,800 bottles with a connection to San Lorenzo on the other side of the 100m wide lava swath. An old vines Monopole block dating back a century always made and the one that drinks with immediate distinction, maturity and acumen. Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo also deals in the sneakiest of tannins, more structure than you would surely think and that sort of Etna Rosso that arrives somewhere fast but stays comfortably in the same state for a dozen years. All that said it’s precision and beauty allow us to enjoy its charms straight away. Drink 2024-2035. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

What Marc de Grazia considers to be the finest contrada on the north slope and yet there are micro plots within the eight parcels that can only be made into Rosato in humid vintages. This comes from the oldest vines, more than 80 years old and just one look sees a brightness and transparency inciting the senses as they take in a bouquet not having yet nosed in the other Rossi. Calderara Sottana is the most demure, the finest of sound and vision, the one you take in slowest, without haste, to allow unfurling and length to travel as far as it wishes, evocatively so. “It asks delicate questions,” says de Grazia. “Rose petal perfume and tannins that don’t cut off your palate.” Even more is this elastic meander, not aimless but with purpose and our palates follow every step. Like Giuseppe Russo’s (though de Grazia sees little comparison) this provides the exception to so many Etna Rosso rules. Drink 2027-2038. Tasted September 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

From the area of Castiglione at 680m with 100 percent nerello mascalese. Aging in grandi botti for two years and then 10 months in bottle before release. A richness of style, liquorice and dried tree pod fruit, the wood very much in play and acidity less intense than many. A liquid chalky presence on the palate, still needing another year to resolve. Chewy example, confident and a slow delay of fruit, which is never really all that fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Big French tonneaux, second passage and older for eight months. No recipe but that is this vintage, not as powerful as 2022 and Sofia sees it like 2016, but perhaps a different kind of balance, though not as ideal as 2016. The restrained power of the volcano runs throughout and you really feel it. Remarkable Etna Rosso in balance and of a grace that speaks to all there can be. What these wines are want to express and how they carry themselves, non-plussed, confident and free. The ripeness factor at the top of what is normal and beautiful without excess or greed. Sweetness of acidity and form-fitting structure but neither curves nor angles are exaggerated, nor drawn with any concentric circles or sharp lines. The wine flows and reaches the limits of what is right and proper. Just that much and no more. And we say thank you. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May and September 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre-Phylloxera 2017

From Sofia Ponzini in the area of Passopisciaro and her cru vineyard called Vico. Own-rooted, pre-phylloxera vines, more than 100 years old, nerello mascalese and also cappuccio. A reminder that 2017 was cooler than most of Italy, especially the centre and north, but still generally sunny and warm on Sicily, including aboard L’Etna. Just now beginning to open and emit its magnificent perfumes, followed by a textural weave of vinous fabrics and finally the much expected, energizing and aligning archetypal volcanic saltiness. Drink 2024-2030. T asted May and September 2024

Tenute Nicosia Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Monte San Nicolò Biologico 2020

A 2020 and so a few years in though the Monte San Nicolò is a bit quiet – somewhat aromatically subdued. Needs some coaxing to see and feel its joy, but fruit nor florals are what drive or cause the beats of the heart. In part because it’s somewhat reductive, of pencil shavings and notable botanicals, like an artiginale tonic water if you get the herbal drift. Solid if currently missing some spirit but time will make a difference. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Rosario Raciti – Terre Darrigo

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Proper and correct northeastern Etna road taken in terms of extraction and transparency, A good volume (upwards of 30,000 bottles) that will repeat in 2024 after the disastrous 2023. Real cherry fruit but also the stone that speaks to what Contrada Arrigo is want to lend in mineral terms for nerello mascalese. That mixed with some fruit from other sources but our palates get the drift. Good Rosso that will improve with vine age and agronomist/winemaker Rosario Raciti’s familiarity with this farm. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Terre Darrigo Etna Rosso DOC C. da Arrigo 2022

Etna Rosso from the single contrada (Arrigo) where Terre Darrigo’s amphitheatre grows nerello mascalese in a most beautiful rustic setting on southeastern facing, tightly packed terraces between the volcano and the sea. You can feel the great difference between this wine and the classico Rosso though if you are from this place you say it with sentito, that is with feeling, shouting out this is “the wine from L’Etna!” This single contrada wine elevated from that appellative discourse, softens the bitter cherry stone and smooths transitions. This because it’s a very well made Rosso from a place of great potential. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

The most understandable and straightforward Etna Rosso there could be, mature and layered, of riches and earth, fruit and soil all in the mix. A volcanic paint by numbers canvas of realism and beauty, easily accessible and generous to a perfectly reasonable degree. Entry point for the DOC and once in, never to look back. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May and September 2024

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Some very ripe fruit here from Tonatore’s Pietrarizzo Rosso in the ways of late picking and good solid pressing. Makes for a chewy nerello mascalese that will ready itself for consumption quite a bit earlier than quite a bunch of its peers. Plenty of flavour and attraction for a wine that should be consumed over the next three years. Last tasted May and September 2024

North slope of Etna cru of nerello mascalese put to 50hl foudres, blended and then settled in concrete ahead of bottling. Consistently one of the finer Rosso values in Contrada-specific Etna and here the fruit ripeness and maturity is as fulsome as it ever gets. Makes for a drink really early proposition and provided that advice is followed there will be perfume, heady flavours and good acidity in your glass. A wine to lead off high-end tastings and dinners here, there and everywhere. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted November 2023

Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa la Guzza – Vigneti Vecchio

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Sciare Vive 2022

The work of Rosa La Guzza and Carmelo Vecchio in Solicchiata on L’Etna’s northeastern slope and a blend of several contrade. The signature Rosso of highest production that sees concrete, botti and fibreglass. Some of the vines date back 150 years and there are many varieties involved in what is a true field blend, including the likelihood of ancient red and white varieties; minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico, catarratto and malvasia. But when it comes to grapes (if not perhaps location and elevation) the Etna DOC offers an inclusive and forgiving discipline. Rosa admits this Rosso to be “a little rough,” Carmelo nods in agreement and while also tumble there is just so much flippin’ personality. It may blow your mind and also lash your palate, but in the end nothing else on Etna, or anywhere else tastes like this Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Friera 2022

Contrada Friera is Carmelo Vecchio’s Etna Rosso from Lingualossa, of 95 percent nerello mascalese and a smattering of various endemic varieties (minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto) from vines as old as 120 years of age. Less than one hectare provides this antediluvian hodge-podge of the varietal wild and the maker’s job is to simply gather and come what may. His vineyard is basically a monopole and so there is no frame of reference save for what the eastern Etna spirits might whisper in his ear. Material this old will do what it pleases and while there is a rusticity similar to Sciare Vive there is also more concentration, complexity and most importantly intuition. There could always be the possibility of importune happenstance but Friere knows what to do. It would seem. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2022

Classic and that means arch-classic texture brought forth from a Carmelo Vecchio nerello mascalese. Without a doubt the purest and cleanest Vigneti Vecchio Rosso to date made under his tenure. A challenge of vintage but a test passed with flying colours and sweet spot found. Allow this 2022 to rest on the palate for 20 seconds, to take in its weightlessness and ability to hover just above the senses. A signature of Malpasso that will repeat and be recognized going forward. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Malpasso 2020

As with Friere, the Etna blend from Contrada Malpasso (literally “bad step”), is a Rosso of 95 percent nerello mascalese with bits and bites of various indigenous varieties like minnella, inzolia, carricante, grecanico and catarratto, here from vines in the 120 year-old range. A Rosso that pulses, still with some residual CO2 and it feels like carbonic maceration was a part of the deal. Carmelo Vecchio in fact started with the method in 2020 so family and friends could get together and make a party of it. Malpasso shows great energy, fabulously so, alive and kicking. It is said that one wrong step can change everything but a mal passo might just result in a wildly entertaining wine like this. Drink this sooner than the other VV’s while this candle still burns. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Etna DOC Rosso Contrada Crasà 2022

Contrada Crasà for Etna Rosso is composed of 90 per cent nerello mascalese and a field blend of (10) local white varieties, in this case inzolia, grecanico and catarratto. The hectare and a half was planted in 1930 and so 92 years is the number for this vintage. Call it even and just say century vines because 1930 seems a bit arbitrary at this point for a vineyard that sits just one km away from another where vines are 130 years of age. Carmello Vecchio likes to use stems, co-ferment and give 15 days of skin maceration. The acts of pigeage and remontage are done lightly and so the sweetness and purity of fruit is kept in tact. Like the Malpasso this buzzes with energy but with more control, less wildness and yet remains very much alive. All the red berries are imagined to be represented and once again Vigneti Vecchio presents a unicorn wine. They always are. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted September 2024

Benanti

Other Wines

Benanti Viticoltori Nerello Cappuccio 2022, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

A rare varietal nerello cappuccio, without oak since 2014, not always made and says Salvino Benanti, ”not a wine you can make a business from, but it’s worth showing to the world.” A versatile red to chill, very gamay like, or if you ike to compare locally, in the vein of frappato. Does not grow (perfectly) well in every vintage and there is surely a rusticity but you can see just how well Benanti tames the edginess, softens the structure and maintains a sweet herbal profile. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Chardonnay C’eragià 2021, Sicilia DOC

Tasca’s Etna interpretation of chardonnay comes from a one-acre vineyard in Contrada Rampante and no shock to sense the scents of barrel fermentation. There is vanilla, white caramel, honeysuckle, fennel pollen and lightly toasted biscuits with an autolytic wind ‘a blowing. A still chardonnay imagined as being subjected to a secondary fermentation in bottle and a sparkling method wine should be so lucky to have this fruit as its maker. The flavours feign sweetness accented by spice., energy runs high and in the end C’eragià which translates as “it was already there” is a fine interpretation of chardonnay. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted September 2024

Vigneti Vecchio Donna Bianca 2018, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT

With fruit from outside of the defined DOC yet in Carmelo Vecchio’s world a most important vineyard at 820m of elevation. The mix of soil and climate make for a poignant and prescient nerello mascalese named for Donna Bianca, the snowcapped “lady,” a.k.a the volcano at 3,000-3,300 metres above. High-toned, free-spirited, big acid bomb and half the glycerin of some of Vecchio’s other reds. Far from volatile despite the lightning style with great potential and a truly high ceiling. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Dessert wines

La Gelsomina Di Colombo Maria Adalgisa Moscato Passito Di Terreni Vulcanici 2018, Terre Siciliane IGT

A moscato (bianco) but the variety is muscadelle, not moscato di alessandria, a.k.a. zibbibo. Dried fruit, never crushed, always infused after the stainless ferment and finishes at 110-120 g/L of residual sugar. Uniquely Sicilian if not defined or expressive of being from L’Etna but still a tradition is followed. Clean as Passito will be, without formaggi or yeasty notes, of apricot and fig, acidity enough though unassuming. Serves a purpose, preferably with a good bite into biscotti. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Visits with Planeta and Serra Ferdinandea

Planeta Syrah Maroccoli 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Just the syrah facts, “in purezza” as they say, from an Ulmo site with a proviso for as much varietal perfume as anywhere in Sicily. “We were expecting some kind of natural catastrophe, “says Winemaker Patricia Tóth, “because it was 2020 – but it never arrived.” Good winter precipitation was followed by months of pleasant weather, much like 2014. Succulent acids and tart idealism combine to elevate, buoy and celebrate fruit. A syrah of a rising, balanced, long and true. Has already entered the drinking zone. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Burdese 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A cabernet joint, of 70 sauvignon and 30 franc, each noticeable and notable for this Sicilian play on words. Burdese, as in Bordeaux for a wine grown on the left bank of the man made lake, once a river flowing through the valley below Ulmo in Sambuca di Sicilia. Forget the mimic or simulation because place supersedes idea with a mix of juicy and dusty fruit, succulent acids and fine tannins. No grittiness or grippy intensity but really more a matter of verticality and integration. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Merlot Sito Dell’Ulmo 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

A 100 percent merlot from the Ulmo Vineyard, owned since 1694 and a first harvest in 1995. From this part of Menfi where the sun shines bright and the breezes blow every day between the massifs to the north and Monte Cerami that separates the vineyard from the sea. Menfi where the typical reds of merlot outlast the opposing greens by 10 to one and so fruit is everything with the local limestone streaking through. Succinct wine, linear and direct, credibly structured and the cohort involving fruit and wood seamlessly integrated. Fine stuff, veritably reasoned and seasoned. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2020, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Should there be a finer and more appropriate place to plant and raise cabernet franc on the entirety of Sicily that information should immediately be made public. Planeta’s Ulmo vineyard brings the grape to singular light, here 25 years after its introduction and it has become abundantly clear how it resides at the pinnacle and signature for reds out of Menfi. The 2020 is just now settling in and acting perfectly comfortable in its skin, fruit still swelling and always with the potential to burst free at any time. These are near perfect acids, sweet and sumptuous, allowing for movement and at this ideal stage, also development. There are hints at secondary character in the chiaroscuro shadows slow to reveal themselves. Sumac and pomegranate, a lightly browning and caramelizing eggplant before finishing with a wood encouraged dusting, as if by cocoa and clove. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted September 2024

Planeta Cabernet Franc Didacus 2019, Sicilia Menfi DOC

An extra year in bottle and at first there seems not to be the great difference that might have been expected when tasted side by each with Didacus 2020. In fact 2019 is a much more tannic and structured vintage with its intensity cross-examined by austerity. Indemnity for cabinet franc with an upwards trajectory of extending verticality and still it requests for more time. The fruit is far less succulent and lush as compared to ’20 and so when the wine falls into place there will be a faster intern into secondary character. Expect quicker to arrive fungi and a masala of spice directed by the wood. Wait another year at least and then drink this Didacus ’19 before the ’20 finishes its own run. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted September 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

First vintage of the 100 percent nero d’avola Rosé was 2020, grown aboard the serious limestone at 400-plus metres subjected to the south sea, Saharan and Mistral winds that blow through the Sambuca di Sicilia Valley. While southern France might seem to be the precursor that may no longer be the case, if namely because a blend now becomes a varietal wine. Better for the decision and change, now a step up in rich flavours, texture and presence. Fine and elegant. Last tasted September 2024

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interst and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Serra Ferdinandea Bianco 2022, Sicilia DOC

Mezzo e mezzo, 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc grown at elevation like the nero d’avola, only stainless steel for fermentation. The grillo has always been a natural fermentation of a pied de cuve way, while the sauvignon follows dutifully along. A true bianco joint, friendly and smart, sapid and salty, phenolic and grippy. Brat not nat, not bratty and certainly not natty. Crisp and edging into herbal with a what just feels like place, that being Menfi. You can forage for salads in the fields and vineyards, reflected in the flavours of this Bianco. Last tasted September 2024

Mix of 50-50 grillo and sauvignon blanc, for now the only two white grapes and making up a third of the 17 hectares total. The most recent planting was 2021, the first back in 2015. All about freshness and salinity with just a bit of wood thanks to 25 percent, none of it new. The wood is present by only in subtle and oscillating tones on the mouth. Some phenolic presence yet again, not overdone or even remotely aggressive. A bit buttery at the finish, graced by piquancy and the sort of scorrevole that drifts slowly away. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosso Sicilia 2022, Sicilia DOC

Another 50-50 blend, here from nero d’Avola and syrah, equal partners in crime. The wines used to be 70-30, including the Rosato and now half an half makes much more sense for Rosso. And in turn it makes the Rosé that much better as a varietal nero. More syrah brings more spice and also meatiness matched by mineral, spice and elements of the earth. A hit of sanguine, a hint of iodine and then the floral nero kicking in. It continues with its freshness and necessary mix of sapid meeting salty, from limestone, sea and wind revivalist nature. The most complex and frankly interesting becoming delicious red blend in the winery’s short history. Just FYI the Serra Ferdinandea catalogue lists the wines from Rosso to Bianco to Rosato, in that order. Just the way tasting wine should be and yet we taste in the opposite order. Maybe we’ll switch that around in 2025. Last tasted September 2024

Equal parts syrah and nero d’Avola, straightforward, clean and with the idea being to make the purest iteration that exults two very important grapes. Increasing the concrete involvement though this is all done in wood with subsequent vintages to go in that cemented direction. Already croccante so imagine the freshness and crunch going forward. Purple violets, light chalkiness and what feels like sandy soil-effected freshness. Piquant and toothsome. Delicious. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2023

Good to go!

godello

Versante Nord, L’Etna

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Post ProWein tasting crawl trough the Ahr, Mosel, Nahe and Rheinhessen

Oct30

In March of 2024 Godello reprised a Düsseldorf redux by attending the annual ProWein Wine Fair and then hitting the road for a three-day, four region transversal of German wine-growing regions. Prowein, Messe Düsseldorf and the German Wines Institute brought international journalists through the Ahr, Nahe, Mosel and Rheinhessen. The producers visited were Weingut J.J. Adeneuer (Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler); Weingut Forster (Rümmelsheim), Schlossgut Diel and Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth (Burg Layen) and Weingut Anette Closheim (Langenlonsheim); Four producers from Der Ring 1899, a.k.a. the Bernkasteler auction company hosted the group at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach; Weingut Franzen (Bremm), Weingut Walter (Briedel), Weingut Rebenhof (Hochheim am Main) and Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz (Mertesdorf); Last stop was with Weingut J. Neus (Ingelheim am Rhein) in Rheinhessen and finally the press tour concluded with a fascinating Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek, presented by Sommelier Shanna Reis. Special thank you goes out to Christiane Schorn, Senior Manager Press & PR, ProWein, Michael Mandel, Messe Düsseldorf and Carola Keller, Marketing Manager, German Wines (DWI). These are the estates, their makers and notes on a collective 80 wines tasted between the 12th and 14th of March.

Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca – J.J. Adeneuer

Ahr Valley

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer – Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Blanc De Noir Purist 2022, Ahr Valley

Saignée method Blanc de Noir, reduced from the Grosses Gewächs spätburgunder, finished at three g/L of RS. Simple, fresh and dry. Quite pure as Rosé with a mild pith bitters finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Weissburgunder Purist 2022, Ahr Valley

Juts a month on the lees for pinot blanc, now a year in bottle, more about texture and mouthfeel than primary fruit. About as crisp and clean as it gets but again with a mild lime pith bitter finish, much like the Rosé. Length adds to the refreshment of the wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley

Mildly reductive and also a factor of Ahr Valley terroir, making pinot noir flinty and taut while still this youthful. As with all the Adeneuer pinots they all fall in at 13 percent alcohol, the wood factor only from Bourgogne forests and just 10 percent new. A mix of red berry fruit, more flint stone character and the faintest touch of red fruit but also almond bitters. Would never see this as jammy and chilling it down for maximum freshness is wholly encouraged. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 2 2020, Ahr Valley

A pinot noir from after the floods of 2021 and normally bottled after 12 months. Circumstances meant that after the barrels were saved the vintage had to remain in wood for 18 months, only able to be bottled after the clean-up. Caused the alcohol to finish at 13.5 percent instead of the usual 13 and there is more texture as a result. Feels like a bigger and creamier pinot noir with tang and more red berry plus a toastier quality than that of the coming ’21s and ‘22s. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 1 2021, Ahr Valley

A later harvest, two weeks later the 2018-2020 but also the flood vintage when on the night of July 14th and into the 15th the waters filled the cellars and basements plus halfway up the ground floor of the winery. The No. 1 always remains 18 months in barrel, fruit coming from the lower Ahr Valley vineyards in three villages. The soils are 60 percent volcanic rock and the basaltic reek is felt in palpable aromatic display. Much more lactic and blood red citrus style plus this porcine smokiness, like Speck bacon. More structure and only GG plots are used – three of them. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Kleine Kammer 2022, Ahr Valley

J.J. as in Johannes Josef (ancestor from the 18th century, dating to 1776). Kleine Kammer, meaning “small (fermentation) chamber.” This Adenauer pinot noir comes off of soils of only pure slate with sandy loam, the second choice from a GG site, a terraced plot measuring only 0.68 hectares in size. The rule in Germany for GG is such that you can’t use a site’s name twice, thus the fantasy name. Vines are 50-60 and 80-100 years of age with the younger vines giving fruit for this wine. Ages in 1,800 to 2,000L barrels, namely Taransaud. No real toast to speak of, nor new wood feels or bitters in any notable way. Classic slate example that expresses its terroir and since 1776 as a Monopole. from vines with deep roots that never see their berries get sunburnt. A beauty and grace about this, quite getable and with sneaky structure. Made with the Kastenholz clone, grandchild of a pinot noir original. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Rosenthal GG 2021, Ahr Valley

J.J. Adenauer is now Marc Adeneuer with daughter Francisca and together they farm 13 of 540 hectares in the region, third most from the fourth smallest region in Germany. A red wine specialist with 90 percent red grapes, mainly pinot noir while the rest is weissburgunder and now just starting with chardonnay. Basically a place where Bourgogne grapes thrive. Rosenthal is mainly sandy loam and graywacke soils to gift pinot noir with a purity, crispiness and liveliness. You simply will not find more fresh fruit purity from any of the other Adeneuer pinot noirs. Comes from 2.5 hectares in the GG vineyard and the acid structure here is sensational – the catalyst and reason why this will age longer and slower than the other wines. This was the flood vintage too so kudos to the estate for sticking with it and creating this delight of a pinot noir. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer Frühburgunder 2022, Ahr Valley

Varietal frühburgunder, fresh and clean, clean, clean. Floral, without musculature, gamay like and though labeled at 13 per cent it’s really 12.7. Chill this and put away the serious talk. More than go gamay go – it’s fly frühburgunder fly. Approximately 1,500 bottles produced (plus 500 of the GG). Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Beef Tartar – Kräter Sauce, Pinienkerne, Koriander, Chips – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Mosel

Der Ring 1899 at Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Weingut Franzen – Bremm

Weingut Franzen Riesling Der Sommer War Sehr Groß 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel

A dry Mosel riesling which means 10.2 g/L of RS, 7.3 TA and finished at 11 percent alcohol. “Winegrowing on a razor’s edge” for a riesling “summer project” begun in 2011, “a cuvée that presents the cross-section of our vineyards and combines all the advantages of the individual locations in one wine.” Spontaneous ferment, as with all the wines, not far from Cochem where the steepest vineyard in Europe slopes to 68 degrees. A riesling of what feels like crazy conversion rates coming from red slates and seasoned with many spices. You would literally have no idea there is any sugar in this wine and the length is exceptional. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Bremmer Calmont Großes Gewächs 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

Bremmer Calmont delivers far more spice and power than the Franzen blend, here off of pure slate on a 65-degree slope which happens to be one of the steepest vineyards in Europe. Calmont is about as dry as riesling gets and its scintillant-mineral quality delivers true Großes Gewächs distinction. Extreme aridity perceived matched by intense sapidity that only this specific Mosel red slate provides. A riesling of trenchant intention, compact and stone cold concentrated. Serious wine. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Angelina Franzen – Weingut Franzen

Weingut Franzen Riesling Calmont Trocken 2021, Lagenweine, Mosel

Dry riesling from the steepest 65 degree vineyard of oxidized red Devonian slate and quartzite raised only in steel. The specs are 8.5 g/L of residual sugar matched by 7.6 g/L of acidity with 11.0 percent alcohol and as far as vintages are concerned this would be one to really age. Namely because of palate density but also because the acidity is as fine and finessed as it gets for this composition. May not pierce your riesling heart, or soul but it will age well. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Fachkaul is the parcel which forms a kind of mini-amphitheater-shaped bowl where at the end of the 1990s Kilian Franzen’s father Ulrich restored and replanted the vines. The epitome of Killian and Angelina’s story, a Calmont tale fraught with adversity, challenges and heartache, but this small (1.6-ish hectare) plot means everything. Mineral that matters, red slate and the steepest slope where all that is important, essential and profound result in singular riesling. Not quite as dry as the Bremmer but higher in acid, more stark, expletive and magical. Sapid lime intensity, long, significant, precise, consequential and just recently bottled in January. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024

Lachs – Tofu Puree, Edamame, Bohnen, Dijon Sauce – Die Mosel Vinothek und Winebar, Traben-Trarbach

Weingut Franzen Riesling Fachkaul Großes Gewächs 2017, Große Lagen, Mosel

In a perfect place at this six to seven year stage, from one of the warmest seasons with lots of rain at harvest. Picking began in the second week of September and required many passes in the vineyard with a stringent selection to create (an overall) 15 skus for 11 hectares. The work of Killian and Angelina, students from Geisenheim who began this journey of family necessity at the ages of 23 and 20. A softer Fachkaul but that is the maturity speaking for riesling of a sapid tug on red slate, one and a half hectare mineral-varietal heartstrings. Quite remarkable and with three great years still laid out ahead. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Franzen Riesling Sterneberg Großes Gewächs 2020, Große Lagen, Mosel

Killian and Angelina Franzen’s best plot in the Neefer Frauenberg is called Sterneberg. Vines were planted in 1938 on grey slate for a different, next level mineral quality and quotient for Mosel riesling. These are own-rooted vines, old, experienced and wise, their resulting dry wine coming away like the desert because sugar and acids near-equal come together seamlessly. The most viscosity and texture of the Franzen rieslings, from a hot vintage and so concentration, unctuousness, flesh, pulp and glissade are all at peak performance. Glorious and confident, outspoken but only to make sure we understand its origins and Franzen abides by its voice. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Gerrit Walter and Angelina Franzen

Weingut Walter – Briedel

Weingut Walter Riesling Trocken 2022, Gutsweine, Mosel

From Briedel, next village out of this tight turn in the Mosel from Pünderich where Clemens Busch farms their riesling. The Walter Trocken is just 6.5 g/L of residual sugar pretty much hidden by 6.9 of TA. Six to eight hours of skin contact for a phenolic, taut, lime doused example off of the grey slate of the Briedel Vineyard. Solid effort and notably modern. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Feinherb Briedeler 2022, Ortsweine, Mosel

Villages quality wine from Briedel, not as dry as the Trocken with three times the residual sugar, here at 10 g/L. A floral-herbal expression, fresh, light and modular. The acidity functions to make the malleable wine travel to the back palate and structure is formed because of this movement and interaction. Very well made Feinherb style by Gerrit Walter for simple pleasure, especially with a piece of cheese or beef tartare with pine nuts and a high acid mustard sauce . Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Pünderricher Marienburg Großes Gewächs 2022, Mosel

Gerrit Walter is the next generation producer of this GG riesling out of Briedel’s grey slate vineyard. Sees a longer maceration of 12-15 hours, comes away super dry (3.1 g/L), matches the Trocken’s acidity and finishes at a Mosel high 12.6 per cent alcohol. This is not about fruit but rather the type of mineral focus that comes from Marienburg, with increased seasoning, spice, elements and tonic-edgy florals, though it is not the most phenolic of rieslings. Cracker example, truly dry and in command of the palate. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Pünderricher Marienburg 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

One of two recognizable styes of riesling made by Gerrit Walter to carry on with Mosel tradition even while he and many young generation winemakers are turning to drier and drier. This from an early harvest resulting in 45 g/L of residual sugar, far from searing 8.0 TA and low-ish alcohol at 8.6 percent. There is more fruit here in a light, refreshing yet in its own way also intense style that the estate has been making for 10 years. “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” explains Gerrit and his Pünderricher is without any real skin contact, but the tangerine-orange peel aroma really kicks things off. The length is indeed outstanding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Kabinett Marienburg 2016, Lagenweine, Mosel

When talking about his 2022 Pünderricher from Marienburg Gerrit Walter noted that “Kabinett means light, vibrant and elegant,” three things this 2016 most surely had been. Not anymore because age has exaggerated the aromas if also softened the palate flavours. This divergence has resulted in maturity and a dispersion of parity. There is some interest for this fine if past prime look at a Marienburg riesling. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Walter Riesling Spätlese Briedeler Schäferlay 2022, Lagenweine, Mosel

No botrytis came about for Walter’s late harvest riesling with 63.2 g/L of RS, higher 9.3 at TA and 8.6 percent alcohol. Elegant, concentrated and optimum if unassuming ripeness for this lime cordial, mineral salts and cracker acidity style. In fact the blade swipe makes for an intensely serious and stood up to be counted riesling that demands attention. Serious but as mentioned also elegant which is a very good combination. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof – Hochheim am Main

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Trocken Ürziger Würzgarten Von Wurzelechten Reben 2022, Hochheim am Main

Ürzig is a village in the Bernkastel district of the Mosel and the Ürziger (vineyard) is a place of red slate, often lending a spicy or salty character to the riesling grown there. Wurzelechten basically means “own or unrooted,” a significant case because there are between 50-60 hectares of un-grafted vines in all of Germany, about half of them planted between 1910 and 1935. Topsoil must exist over stoney soils for Phylloxera to attack and the slate in this part of the Mosel is not one of those locations. Rebenhof’s Kabinett is the truest form of Trocken and one of the zestiest you are ever likely to encounter. Matching sugar and acidity numbers create the equilibrium, both at 6.8 g/L with alcohol right there in the median sweet spot at 11 percent. Tons of lime, mostly zest and the intensity never relents. Still there is a fulsome aspect and so time should soften the attack and coax out some flesh. Unique riesling in any case. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Großes Gewächs Auktionswein Erdener Treppchen 2020, Hochheim am Main

A riesling with the Auktionswein classification which means it its part of the Bernkasteler Ring E.V., which is the oldest wine auction company in Germany. A Großes Gewächs (a mark of quality by top producers from best sites making dry wines) from the iron-rich, red slate soils of the Erdener Treppchen (village of Erden in the Mosel’s Bernkastel area). The 2020 is a wine of dichotomies, still on the dry side but with elevated numbers as compared to the Ürziger. Here riesling is at once salty but the acid presence (as a quotient of this vineyard’s minerals) creates an opposing sense of sapidity. Diversity from start to finish, a wine of waves and oscillations, multifold mineral movements and a gelid texture to the palate. Higher alcohol contributes to the elevated weight. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Spätlese Ürziger Würzgarten Von den Felsen 2018, Hochheim am Main

A new style of Spätlese riesling, well ahead of its time from 2018 out of the Ürziger Würzgarten with just a bit more than one-third of the residual sugar of the Kabinett. Here at 29.5 g/L and higher alcohol (11.0 percent) than might have been thought. This modern approach makes for a sapid riesling despite the sweetness, quite phenolic, ripe and grippy, rich and creamy yet intensely mineral. A lime cordial meets sherbet style with backbone, attitude and potential. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Rebenhof Riesling Kabinett Auktionswein Ürziger Würzgarten Urglück 2022, Hochheim am Main

Fabulous nose with exceptional aromatics mark the entry of this very sweet riesling made in a singular Kabinett style. A riesling of nectarine and peach stone, creamy like the Spätlese but more bodied and emulsified as texture with acidity really buoying the fruit. The method, application and intention might suggest a challenge but Rebenhof does their best work when sugars are elevated because that is how they see riesling and its capabilities. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted March 2024

Charlie and Caroline Weis – Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz – Mertesdorf

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kaseler Nies’chen No. 15 Im Steingarten 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Caroline Weis describes the steep and exposed Nies’chen vineyard as the “mountain,” an extreme and specific Steingarten site with blue slate and sparse stony topsoil. It is anything but a “garden” of a vineyard to farm. Labeled Trocken and while anything but severely dry it is the intensity of this riesling’s acidity that plays tricks upon both the nose and palate. The TA is in fact higher (at 7.9) than the sugar (at 7.5 g/L). The new (and local) winemaker Phillip Steffes likes this style, more open than rigid and definitely sapid without any gratuitous generosity. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Mertesdorfer Herrenberg No. 14 2022, Mertesdorf, Mosel

As with the Nies’chen there is slate in the topsoil of the Mertesdorfer (Mertesdorf Village) Herrenberg but more blue on the lower slope, as opposed to black at the “mountain” top. Also a dry riesling though even more so (at 5.5 g/L) in this Großes Gewächs edition with an acidity number (at 6.7) that dominates to make this feel like one of the most arid Mosel rieslings around. A modern and modish take that commands attention, broadens the mouthfeel and so that fruit-mineral swirl becomes one of serious breadth. A credible example with acidity that is not sharp, but certainly powerful, impeccable balance and high level age-worthiness in the Trocken idiom. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Großes Gewächs Trocken Kaseler Nies’chen No. 12 Auf Den Nauern 2021, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Auf Den Mauern is a 60 percent steepness portion of the Nies’chen Vineyard and considered to be the most important riesling section where high slate walls support the slope. Though this does come across as dry there is more sugar (at 8.6 g/L) and also acidity (7.2) as compared to the Herrenberg. What stands out now is the saltiness in a way only this riesling from Erben Von Beulwitz is want to show. A different expression results, also because it’s still young, reductive and yet to open. Caroline Weis notes its 10-year potential and truth be told there will be two more years of waiting before any significant changes begin to occur. It could be suggested to open bottles at the 2,4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 year marks to see the evolution. It was a rainy summer of 2021 in this part of the Mosel and so things slows down for riesling. Drink 2026-2034. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10 2022, Mertesdorf

Classic Mosel style in the ways of the 90s and 2000s and “Dad’s favourite,” tells Charlie Weis. The kind that expertly balances high sugar and acid, layered like mille-feuille pastry, light on its feet and melting with ethereal ability in the mouth. Creates a symbiotic relationship with the Spätlese, the other Herbert classic styled riesling. The combination of 150 years of history and a family’s efforts since 1982 are what make a riesling like the Kaseler Nies’chen No. 10. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben Kaseler Nies’chen No. 6 2023, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Now into late harvest territory, old-school if you will, “Dad’s riesling” admits both Caroline and Charlie, Weis daughters and face of the estate. What a contrast to the Trocken, fruity, pulpy and forward, blast from the past though a very recent one to be honest. No holding back, zero reduction and ready to please. The specs are 95.0 g/L of residual sugar, 9.1 TA and 7.1 percent alcohol. Classic in so many respects, namely the tart stone fruit, sweetness elevated by the specific kind of acidity and good energy all-around. A clean and protected riesling that should have no problem living a long and productive life. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Erben Von Beulwitz Riesling Auslese Alte Reben Auktionswein Kaseler Nies’chen 2015, Mertesdorf, Mosel

Tasted side by side with the 2020, a wine so incredibly youthful it seems years too early to be tasted. This 2015 is just beginning to show the first early stage of maturity, an Auslese from a hot summer with heavy rains. This fortunately stopped and the harvest saw cooling temperatures with beneficial drying winds. The end result was small berries and low yields for highly concentrated riesling fixing high quality Auslese. The acidity is still ripping through, keeping the sugars low and at bay, way down below. Kaleo rhythm, pure Mosel aromatic if perhaps the melodic-Icelandic gelid coolness, and “whoa, we get what we deserve.” Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024

Nahe Vineyard

Nahe

Weingut Forster – Rümmelsheim

Weingut Forster Sekt Brut Nature Chardonnay and Weißburgunder 2016, Nahe

The 2016 Sekt of zero dosage spent 90 months on the lees. Still showing good freshness and aromatics are more than joyous. The wine turns quite botanical and it’s all sweet herbs throughout the second half of this unique sparkling wine. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Weißburgunder Dry 2023, Nahe

Fermentation is 70 percent in stainless and (30) in wood. A few hours of skin contact, bâttonage and lees contact for a few months. Organic, with neutral yeasts in the steel and spontaneous in the barrels. Low sulphur, vegan and unfined. Just grapes, no additions, proper ripeness, tasting like fruit and admittedly never creamy, oaky or gratuitously soft. Clean, satisfying, of medium acidity and surely just a matter of healthy grapes out of a good pinot blanc vintage. Well thought out, environmentally and sustainably conscious white wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling KABInett 2023, Nahe

A German word play, the use of KABI in bold, as in “I’d like to have a Kabi, short for Kabinett.” One of the first riesling harvested at lower sugar and higher acidity though like all Kabinetts the residual sugar is essential, though here it’s in the lower range at 36.2 g/L. A cool climate vineyard that is now warming to be able to make this style in the Nahe, plus Laura Forster wanted this style to be made, especially because of the low alcohol. Only the third vintage, a fine mix of peach and lime, richness and tang. Well balanced though not one to age like many from the Mosel. Only 3,000 bottles made. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling vom Kies Dry 2022, Nahe

From gravel (kies) soils and the aromatic profile is not only so opposite to the Schiefer but to 99 percent of rieslings made in Germany. A botanical tonic and a cheese rind that really expounds on the idea of this being a natural wine. Yes the soil comes through but also the vinification process, of 10-12 hours of skin contact, first press juice only, spontaneous fermentation in steel, finished at Christmas. Very dry, lime finish and just a bit “horsey.” Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

The Forsters

Weingut Forster Riesling vom roten Schiefer Dry 2022, Nahe

From red slate soils, same fermentation-vinification process as the Kies (granite) riesling. Less lactic and more phenolic, dry as can be and in better balance with thanks to the soil. Still it is the mix of style, use of compost, organics and low intervention, including sulphuring that creates this very natural scenting, a notably earthy and cheese rind notated riesling. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2018, Nahe

Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. Warm vintage though cooler than 2019, higher in sugar though still just about bone dry at 2.9 g/L. Also higher in alcohol at 13.5 with more flesh and body and the balance afforded this clean riesling from clearly healthy soils is just right there where we want it to be. Tannins and structure aided by long lees aging (up to a year) in stainless steel. Freshness fully captured, longevity a true matter of potential and acidity still a great catalyst for all that is happening and will continue to develop in the wine. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Riesling Burg Layer Schlossberg Dry 2019, Nahe

Mild though detectable TCA. Warm, south facing red slate hill, 52 degrees of steepness, right behind the winery. A complete and utter apposite vintage to the cooler 2018, here warm and dry, the sugar under 1.0 g/L and the acids also a point lower. Alcohol 1.5 less at 12 and overall the balance afforded by 2019 was surely more of a challenge. Warm nights up to harvest sacrificed some acidity and so structure overall here, included tannin is lessened. Just not as balanced and without the top energy of 2018 but still well and naturally made. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Grauburgunder Réserve Dry 2022, Nahe

Short 12 hour but effective skin contact for pinot gris, fermented in 500L tonneaux, 12 months of lees contact and healthy alcohol at 13.5 though less than much warmer vintages. Grows on the red slate soil of the Rotenberg (red mountain), sun richness and good metallurgy in the aromatics. Juicy, fleshy and just enough acid to keep things moving swimmingly along. Great diversion from a sea of pinot grigio ubiquity. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Frühburgunder Burg Layer Johannisberg 2022, Nahe

A single vineyard red from the rare variety (only 440 hectares planted in all of Germany), a cru frühburgunder not oft seen in the Nahe. Early ripening grape planted by Johannes Forster’s father 20 years ago. Softer tannin structure as compared to spätburgunder and grown in the cooler site where the riesling for Kabinett also grows. Some whole bunch, fermented on skins for four weeks and yes just enough tannin has come through. Some aging in low toast new barrels, a bit more structure than some though it stays below the threshold of too much extraction and tannin. Just a bit of spice and again gamay or perhaps even pelaverga is the mind’s launching point. Just a hair ambitious for what the grape is want to deliver. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Forster Spätburgunder Kies 2022, Nahe

Grown on the Kies (granite) soil, four weeks of skin fermentation, very little wood usage, soft but still just enough grip to effect structure. Similar natural feel like many of the rieslings and more viscous mouthfeel than the frühburgunder, liquid chalky and again the cheese rind note, Also a verdancy and red citrus tang, desiccated roses and minty cool savour at the finish. Tannins are just a bit hard, chalky-grainy and friable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel – Burg Layen, Nahe

Schlossgut Diel Pinot De Diel, VDP.Sekt, Nahe

A vibrant mix of pinot noir and pinot gris from Caroline Diel, seventh generation winemaker at Burg Layen which came into the possession of the Diel family in 1802. The base wine is 2020 fruit with some residual 2019 involved, two years on the lees and of an aperitivo intent. Easy drinking and on the dry side which feels like another Brut Zero style is well within Diel’s capable reach. Like a bite into a tart and juicy green apple with a drip of red fruit and a fairly tart finish. Satisfying bubble all around. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Dorsheim 2017, VDP.Orstwein

Villages organized riesling from neighbouring village Orstwein with seven-plus years of age, dry and now pretty much in the perfect zone. Has aged beautifully, sitting up vertical and straight, giving generously with a clear and present amount of grace in restraint. The balance between extract and tannin, fruit and acid is simply structured, allegedly and unequivocally spot on. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Caroline Diel – Schlossgut Diel

Schlossgut Diel Cuvée MO Brut Nature 2014, VDP.Sekt Prestige

“I believe sparkling wine does not need any dosage,” and Caroline Diel followed this when she joined the family in 2007, continuing what started going all the way back to the 2004 beginning of this project. Cuvée MO Brut Nature is ninety months on the lees, made with pinot noir and chardonnay. Developed richness for a sparkling wine made at the time in an oxidative style,. Showing aldehydic notes, of brioche to the end of a smoky and really old style of Champagne. Should actually stay this way for a few more years to come. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Pinot Noir Réserve 2020, Nahe

Most of the vines were planted in the mid to late 90s by Caroline Diel’s father Armin. Approximately 20 percent whole cluster, the rest hand de-stemmed, all vineyards in the cuvée fermented naturally and kept separate. A year and a half in barrel, spontaneous malolactic settling, racked now and then and no filtration. Rich fruit, high acid, truly complex aromatics, meaty perfume, full, juicy, lively and finally a truly substantial finish. Neither derivative nor imitative. This is Caroline’s mid-level pinot noir for a 7th generation winemaker who would go on to do the 2022 harvest at Romanée Conti. Mid-level will surely rise up to even greater heights. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Dry Riesling Pittermännchen GG 2022, VDP.Grosses Gewächs

The tiny one hectare cru Pittermännchen is a name that dates to the middle ages with a connection to the people of Köln and Düsseldorf. Grand cru site of weathered grey (Devonian) slate atop Rotliegend conglomerate that dates back several million years. The geo-agricultural texture is small decomposed particles as opposed to the larger stones of the Mosel. Expressive flint stone aromatics undeniably soil related and not much fruit to discuss, save for some variegate currants but you really have to conjure imagination. There is a mille-feuille density to this riesling that peels away and delivers waves in layers without boundaries. Complexities are revealed without pause and dryness results because purity and grip replace the necessity for sugar-acid balance. So stony, long and our palates are held captive. Top shelf riesling within the idiom. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted March 2024

Schlossgut Diel Riesling Kabinett Goldloch 2022, VDP.Grosse Lage

When she returned to the family in 2007 Caroline Diel’s first order of business was to not use herbicides “and it was a disaster,” she remembers, “not being prepared with staff, machine and experience.” Good things take time and now organic certification will come in 2024. The 2022 vintage was not the hottest but was an extremely dry one that saw vines on steep hillsides have to work hard to resist the dangers. Healthy vines can in fact digest the climatic extremes and this riesling of Kabinett style is a testament to facing the challenges head on. The gravelly bedrock of Dorsheimer Goldloch is of the Permian age and its rieslings are juicy as it gets, fruit forward and truly antithetical to the über mineral of the Pittermännchen. Makes sense that Kabinett is the choice for this naturally sweet meeting equal factored acidity that connects for a kick mix of sweet, salty, sapid and savoury. A quotient of 42 g/L of RS so hidden by the acids, grip and energy of the wine. Drink 2024-2031. Tasted March 2024

Christine Pieroth – Piri Naturel

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth – Burg Layen, Nahe

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Mathilda 2021, Nahe

Christine Pieroth is 7th generation for a winery dating back to 1789. Mathilda is a blend of sylvaner, riesling and kerner, made for simple drinking pleasure. Bottled under screwcap to capture the natural effervescence, skin contact and cloudy character for a characterful example of what a nurturing and deft touch can do for grapes that just want to be together. Clean and well made without any pretence, trend or commercial design. Natural for the simple reason of pour me a glass. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Riesling 2021, Nahe

Christine Pieroth studied at Geisenheim and worked in the Okanagan. Her philosophy is really quite direct. “Agriculture is really separated from nature.” Piri Naturel is riesling grown on granite-based, (ancient) sandy seashore pebbles called the Kieselstein. Macerated on the skins for one day, to capture the cool climate region, especially with riesling, then ages two years on full lees in big Stückfässern. “One of the vintages (2021) with the highest acidity I’ve ever experienced” she remembers. Beautiful purity captured without oxidative or any idiomatic orange ornateness. Brilliant riesling work in the style for those who like and want, but also those skeptical of what this kind of wine can be. Acids are captured, tamed and on time release. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Ponderosa 2021, Nahe

A family nickname for the vineyard and incidentally also the Matsutake mushroom, a.k.a. Armadillo Ponderosa. Comes from a schist slope that changes colour from top to bottom, here for a single vineyard though it can’t be labeled this way. Not filtered and so it can’t have a classification. “In the last year I’m turning things upside down” says Christine Pieroth. Ponderosa is 90 percent pinot gris with (10) pinot noir treated to carbonic maceration and my if this isn’t the pink juice you really want to drink. Pink grapefruit, jelly belly, pomelo and guava, dry and tropical, crunchy and tart though never searing. Drink this with a grilled striploin – seriously. Forget Rosé or chardonnay – the acid structure, grip and tannins will do well especially, with a marbled cut. After all it is called Ponderosa. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pinot Blanc 2019, Nahe

Piri farms 7.5 hectares for an average of 80,000 bottles, mostly estate. Permaculture and regenerative farming are practiced with organics as the basis for everything, including no fining or sulphites. The pinot blanc is from 70 yer-old vines, “a very special vineyard, planted by my grandpa,” tells Christine Pieroth. Red schist soil to gift passion and texture to pinot blanc that sees three years in oak, all the while on its lees. No complication, a wine of perfume and nuance, abstract expressionist style, an incredible natural sweetness. A unicorn wine, infinite in ways that can and also can’t be described. The most alcohol of Christine’s wines at 13.5 percent but acidity and spices share the stage and spread the wealth. A slight amount of oak flavour, but fermentative notes have all resolved. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Piri Naturel Christine Pieroth Pét-Nat 2021, Nahe

A Germanic-styled Pétillant-Naturel in the Lambrusco idiom, bone-dry, made from Piwi grapes planted 20 years ago. They being dornfelder and regent (the piwi variety). Talk about foresight and seeing the challenge ahead of the curve. Leesy and cheesy, the most reductive and natural of all Christine’s wines. The kids will love this. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim – Langenlonsheim

Weingut Anette Closheim Calardis Blanc Dry 2023, Nahe

Calardis is a Piwi variety crossed with bacchus (as opposed to sauvignon blanc or cabernet sauvignon especially) and this is just the second vintage of trying it. Quick on skins, fermentation and just bottled in February. Picked on the 22nd and 23rd of September after a picture perfect season. A muscat aromatic way about this unique hybrid example, light, fresh, clean and this elastic push-pull between fizzy and botanical. Bit of white peach and peach pit too. Finished at 12.5 percent alcohol with 4.7 RS and 5.8 TA. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling With Friends Dry 2022, Nahe

For friends who are or may not be friends with riesling, but they can be. Acts dry but there is 7.0 g/L of residual sugar and a near equal amount of acidity. Entry riesling in style, juicy, high citrus, only steel raising and uncomplicated. Lime in every way, especially the juice and the zest. Bit of a Mojito you might say. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Fifteen Dry 2022, Nahe

From Langenlonsheim, Nahe. A long and narrow, “street village” a.k.a. the Naheweinstraße that lines the Nahe. Anniversary riesling of the label, a blend of two single vineyards, planted in 1963 and 1965, red limestone and Nahe gravel. Vinified separately in old wood and in the 2022 there is some residual sugar because one half did not quite finish its fermentation. Seems like rising pH numbers in a vintage like 2022 is the reason for lower acidities and while riesling still seems immune you can’t say the same about pinot grigio and pinot noir which are hitting numbers at or exceeding 3.5. Quite a balanced riesling, a bit higher in RS than the “With Friends” but also more vibrant, less rounded and more quenching. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Pastorei Dry 2018, Nahe

The last vintage of this near 40 year-old south facing riesling vineyard which has since been re-planted to chardonnay because it’s just too warm a place and 2018 was such a vintage. Finished at 13.5 percent which is about as high as you’re going to accept from riesling, with acidity at a healthy 6.3 though anything but creating a searing experience. Lime juicy, ripe and reduced, like a creamy cordial, sapid as it gets, sweetly botanical upon the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Riesling Kabinett Löhrer Berg Medium Sweet 2022, Nahe

From the right side gravel soils for a different mineral experience and while sugar (at 36 g/L) runs high in the Kabinett style you can’t deny how forceful the (8.1) acidity really is. A good if not highest level vineyard site, vines 10-12 years of age, nectarine and lime, well integrated and such a grippy wine. Will hit its balanced stride in a year or two. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Maturis Dry 2022, Nahe

Single vineyard sauvignon blanc called Maturis, as in ripe, well matured and experienced. The clones are mostly from Alto Adige but also some from France, the vines now 16-18 years of age, in seven vineyards, picked across a week’s time. Verdant, botanical and there is a CO2 buzz on the palate. Lime intensity with just six percent wood aging. One of the most unique SBs ever tasted, like green eggs and ham. Tonic fuelled finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Sauvignon Blanc Lorista Dry 2022, Nahe

Higher, drier, similar acidity to the Maturis and now the barrel aged version, with the latest picked grapes (near to the end of September) and a much preferred iteration for Langenlonsheim. From a quickly settled, cloudy and protected pressing that clarifies itself and delivers this amazing richness in spite of the austere aridity. The acidity feels closer to riesling for the Lorista and yet there is some roundness, a creamy consistency based on lime because of the wood. Really unique for the variety, made with the Leimbourg (LB) 36 clone out of Alto Adige. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2020, Nahe

Pretty big pinot noir, not exactly traditional German spätburgunder, from German research clones with bunches of small berries and space. Results in more airflow, less botrytis and good ripeness. Low yielding and good colour. Stays on the skins for 16-18 days and then wood for 14-16 months, mainly from François Frères, 25-35 new, plus second, third and fourth fill. Dark berries, sweet savour (with help from 30-40 percent stems added back) for a level of verdancy expected and well integrated. Solid work here. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2016, Nahe

Considering the ripeness, well integrated chemistry and complexity of 2020 it should be really fascinating to look back at 2016. Still peppery reductive and surely a matter of vintage meeting winemaking that both changed within two years after this one. Quite a bit lower in alcohol, here at 13 percent and a perceivable verdant-savoury accent with no shortage of salt and pepper seasoning and added spice. Beyond the reduction this is showing really well, with cool freshness and what could be called a classic German vintage. A pinot noir naked to the world of beauty and that could not be hidden. First vintage was 2008 and since 2012 the same two vineyards have been making this wine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Anette Closheim Pinot Noir Dry 2019, Nahe

Higher percentage of stems (over 50) as compared with 2020, with moderate alcohol (at 13 percent like 2016). Now things are really interesting, also more new oak involved and clearly the thought was that this combination of ripeness and moderation could handle more structure and anti-jam developing fruit. Which turns out to have been the correct move because the wood is hidden, the succulence raised and the overall effect one of best balance. Truly well made, judged and effected pinot noir. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Meilenstein 2020, Nahe

Meilenstein, meaning milestone and a wine that marked a big step from a wine that used to be based on point noir with st. laurent. A richness and a pyrazine quality, mildly smoky and really warming on the back end going down. A mix of 65 percent cabernet franc, (25) merlot and 10 acolon (a crossing of dornfelder and lemberger). A quarter new wood and 24 months for a spicy red blend with good energy. It’s woody and a bit awkward still but another year or so will do well to get it into a good place. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

Rheinhessen

Weingut J. Neus – Ingelheim Am Rhein

J. Neus Chardonnay Muschelkalk 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Chardonnay is increasingly important at J. Neus and while pinot noir represents 70 percent of the portfolio it is this kind of entry-level varietal wine that speaks to what is possible. All chardonnay is barrel fermented and aged in 500L tonneaux and some German wood. Simple but proper, subtle in all the important ways, especially texture. Impressive work for a barrel fermented and aged, full malolactic chardonnay. Good crunch, energy, vitality and persistence. Pure chardonnay expression, the new Rheinhessen personified for what white wine can be, especially in and around Ingelsheim. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Chardonnay Ingelsheimer 2022, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Ingelheim is the village and this is currently the higher tier chardonnay though a third is on the way so it will soon fall into the middle. Certainly shows more newer tonneaux and compactness on the aromatic front, less forthcoming and yet clearly more stylish. Smells richer and more expensive, transitions with tighter grain and intensity, fills the spaces in between with riper, woven and textured fruit. Then it’s all chalky limestone strikes with spice over the last moments of the wine. Vanilla rests and settles on the finish. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

The introductory pinot noir with a great part of it made with Neus clone grapes, genetically selected by Josef Neus who came from the Mosel and started the winery in 1881. Full on berry aromas in red but also blues, still quite primary as if it just recently come out of its fermentative machinations. So fruit forward and floral, truly unique oi the world of pinot noir and the vintage must have more than something to do with this result. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Alte Reben Ingelheimer 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

Eminently and immediately notable to recognize more reduction, flint stone and less fermentative aromas as compared to the entry level Muschelkalk spätburgunder. The wood lends an early and persistent toasty quality while dried herbs and botanicals remind of the phenolics that a Neus pinot noir has been showing for a decade. That said the style has for sure softened and refined over the last seven years to arrive at this well founded time in its tenure. Many people will be surprised at this high level of Rheinhessen quality. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Pares GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

A hot summer though the Grosses Gewachß spätburgunder are made from fruit grown in the coolest spots and picking was done in mid September ahead of the rains. Lively and spicy aromatics with acidity showing up even before a sip is taken. Red fruit of many ilk, from stone through citrus and yet the palate is quiet, namely because Pares is a much more mineral example than the other GG called Horn. Again the refinement compared to vintages such as 2014 shows the progression and evolution of Neus’ work with pinot noir. Approximately 3,000 bottles are produced between the two GGs. Drink 2026-2031. Tasted March 2024

J. Neus Spätburgunder Horn GG 2021, Ingelheim Am Rhein, Rheinhessen

One of two single vineyard sites (along with Pares) on the Meinsebach side of the river and Ingelheim village. Horn is the warmer of the two sites and so the great immediacy of the Pares acidity gives way to greater depth of gratifying fruit maturity on Horn. More stone and less citrus but really the differences are subtle even while the breadth here surely elevates this unique GG. The vineyard faces southwest and texture really concentrates in a pinot noir that still shows off sweet acidity with top level spiciness and energy. Ripest stems are added back and again it just feels like this process has been refined over the last seven years to come to this really stylish point. Drink 2026-2032. Tasted March 2024

Shanna Reis – Ingelheim Vinothek

Rheinhessen tasting at the Ingelheim Vinothek with Shanna Reis

Organic Weingut Weitzel Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bockstein 2021, Rheinhessen

The work of Elke & Eckhard Weitzel with riesling of late harvest (somewhere between Kabinett and Spätlese) designation though also classified as dry. A bit of an oxymoron but this is in fact of a much lower residual sugar content for a late picked riesling. Lacks the energy and drive in the sugar-acid relationship of true or classic late harvest and so the simplified style drinks easily with straight lines and one-dimensional lime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

AdamWein Weißburgunder Trocken Ingelheim 2022, Rheinhessen

Simona Adam is the winemaker, having taken over from her parents nearly 10 years ago. Creamy wood on the nose and even more so on the palate. Spice and pencil lead first, followed by lactic peach and vanilla after. A shot of tonic at the finish for a nicely complex if easy drinking white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Ingelheim Vinothek

Weingut Arndt Werner Weißer Burgunder Trocken Lottenstück 2022, Rheinhessen

One of two local organic wineries doing weißburgunder (though for the consumer confusingly labeled “Weißer Burgunder) and a much fruitier, almost fruit punch, up front and round style of pinot blanc. Lower in acid and really just about the fruit. It’s weisser, meaning whiter, so the question is, how much more white can this pinot be? The answer is none more white. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Hamm-Burgkirsch Souvignier Gris Weiss Trocken Zunkunftswein 2022, Rheinhessen

A Piwi grape, German cross between seyval blanc and zähringer created in 1983 by Dr. Norbert Becker. Strange that it was originally thought to be a cross between cabernet sauvignon and bronner and maybe because the grapes are quite dark pink in colour. The idea is sauvignon gris meets viognier and the style is not far from that type of union. The palate is more tropical and unctuous than what the nose might have indicated but there is a pungency and passion fruit-like note that advances aromatically after a sip is taken. Some sweetness and good acidity. Could really see people enjoying this. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Bettenheimer Frühburgunder Trocken Schlossberg 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Germany’s most interesting grape and perhaps its red future is frühburgunder, a.k.a pinot noir précoce or pinot madelaine, a cultivar that needs to be treated without great oak or pressed ambition. This is neither lithe nor heavy but some not so perfect wood makes the texture quite pasty and it settles uncomfortably on the palate. Some green tannin as well – pressed just a bit heavy it feels. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Weingut Wasem Doppelstück Pinot Noir Trocken Ingelheimer Pares 2020, Rheinhessen

Some micro oxidative notes at this three-plus year stage though also a taut and compact sensation both on the nose and palate. Rich glycerin and viscous, plenty of cherry and cherry stone bitters for complexity but also a harshness at the finish. Doppelstück is a barrel name where more than one family makes wines but this pinot noir is made by two sisters of the family’s next generation – Doppelstück, meaning twice as big as a regular sized barrel. Very promising varietal wine, just a bit heavy pressed at this stage in its tenure. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Menk Frühburgunder Trocken 2021, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Fresh and energetic frühburgunder with a briny note but some nice fresh raspberry fruit with leafy accents. Palate is a bit syrupy while overall acidity and drive are quite good. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Baum-Barth Ingelheimer Frühburgunder 2021, Rheinhessen

Good ripe fruit, a bit oxidative but the bottle has been open for a few days. That said the tannic structure and energy are clearly based on an uptick of quality and overall intensity is really fine. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted March 2024

Sebastian Münster Frühburgunder Cosmographia 2020, Ingelheim, Rheinhessen

Fine and well made frühburgunder with a lactic way about it and fruit really well connected to the structural aspect of the wine. A bit of red fruit paste and austere tannins so there is potential and the pressing was done with some fine restraint. No overriding green tannin but a tisane quality is part of the deal. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted March 2024

Good to go!

godello

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WineAlign

The contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur

Aug12

A journey through the wine-lands of Sicilia is fluid and casual, yet timeless. The island’s contempo rhythms are their own and while each and every region is characterized, in fact stamped by a distinguishing mark or feature, there is a kinship that connects, especially through its people. A nearness of relations from east to west, an imperturbable sense of self-possession juxtaposed against the unspoken rule of being collectively Sicilian. The wine community acts exactly this way, feels irrefutable defined by characteristics of the present period and its modernity shines. People of poise, assurance, self-confidence, culturally and mosaically grouped together through a historic parade of travellers, occupiers, settlers and traders through time, yet belonging to the same contemporary age, living in the same period of time. Behold the contempo pull of Sicilia en Primeur.

Tenuta Di Fessina Etna Bianco DOC A’Puddara 2021

From Biancavilla at 900m just at the upper limit of the DOC. Sands, rocks, all volcanic for 100 percent carricante. Quite herbal, of thyme and bay laurel, but also the local Ginestra. Intense tang and thick acidity – creating great salivation and yet the palate lightens in the second half of the wine. You can feel the 12 months in cask because of lees and oxidative movement, for complex notions and preservation. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Grillo Pharis 2022, Sicilia DOC

From Faro on the northeastern part of Sicily where the humidity concentrates and the breezes blow higher. A varietal grillo, quite peachy and freshness important because acidity more than keeps pace. Clean and an afternoon delight of a Sicilian white wine. The tonneaux adds texture and extends the fruit while never adding compaction. Very well rounded and made. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta di Castellaro Eùxenos 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

In the territory of Lipari in the (active) volcanic Aeolian where malvasia rules acroos the 160 hectares of the islands. Fertile soils, like a mix of Etna and Pantelleria. All malvasia (delle Lipari) grown at 350m on sandy basalt soils, of a natural fermentation and a deep golden hue because of a healthy maceration, followed by 10 months in amphora. Delicate perfume, orange blossom, dried white fig, dried and candied citrus before finishing at white pepper. A smoulder and easy character from beyond primary aromas mixing with the volcanics that not only characterize, but define this wine. Length is outstanding. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Ferrata Etna Rosso DOC Frevi 2020

Tenute Bosco’s Sofia Ponzini and Godello together again

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC Vigna Vico Pre Phylloxera 2017

Mario Paoluzi – I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna

I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Aetnus 2011

From Castiglione di Sicilia and specifically Muganazzi where 80 percent nerello mascalese and (20) nerello cappuccio are grown in volcanics but also tufo and pumice. Gamey aroma mixed with the threefold mix for a highly particular balsamico. Ample new (one-third to be precise ) tonneaux which gives this Etna Rosso full on spice meets smoulder to leather-weatherize fruit and finish at drying tannins. Though nearly 13 years of age the wine has not fully resolved, though the fruit is now past peak. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Valle dell’Acate Vittoria Frappato DOC Vigna Bidone Sottana 2023

From the dry black silt and sandy/stony soils of southern Sicily in Acate at sea level. Perfumed, clean, soft tannins and all about its fruit. The single vineyard designation gives focus and direction because this really ancient Sicilian grape owns true potential. Vigna Bidone Sottana comes from old plant material, a 1.88 hectare plot that will only improve and instruct its vines to offer up complexity with more time. A launching point frappato for anyone who wants to know what pleasure can be had from this grape. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudi Del Pisciotto Versace Nero d’Avola 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

The territory is Niscemi at 200m on red sandy soils for nero d’Avola that sees a healthy 20 days of maceration. Chewy, an inward and implosive turn of fruit and acidity intertwined. Barrique aged, archetypal nero d’avola that’s quite expected, of lifted aromas, dark fruit and peppery piques. Classic liquorice and a herbaceousness that the grape often shows, ot unlike cabernet franc. Layers of tannin equop this ’21 with a decent potential for aging. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Candido Nero d’Avola 2021, Sicilia DOC

From Camporeale in the western side of Sicily, of nero d’Avola at 400m with no wood aging, only stainless steel. Openly fragrant and varietally obvious, a bit pressed which brings some greenness, pine resin and rosemary with natural tannins. Mix of ripenesses in the tannins which can feel austere and rustic. Honest and real continental example of nero d’avola. Dries out at the finish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Duca di Salaparuta Triskelè 2021, Sicilia DOC

A unique area for nero d’Avola, from Riesi and Butera heading into Western Sicily. Specifically from the The Suor Marchesa Estate, of clay and calcareous soils at 350m with aging in new and second passage barriques. The wood is very much involved, of grainy texture, waves and layers of spice, toasty and salty. Rich and high acid as well to keep the energy up. This must resolve and integrate further, which will happen in two-plus years though after five it will surely arrive into mushroom and truffle. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Grillodoro Late Harvest “Noble Rot” 2018, Sicilia DOC

A rare botrytis-affected dessert wine for modern day Sicilia, a grillo allowed to reman on the vines longer than any other in southwestern Sicily. Mid-October through early November, a few bunches at a time picked and brought in over at least a two week period. Not a Passito, more Sauternes as an example and finishing at 140 g/L of residual sugar. Late harvest berries sent to wood, acidity more than perceived and in fact preserved, persevered and prepared to lead the fruit. Pineapple and apricot, quite fresh considering the agricultural method and also the aging style. Perfectly clean, honeyed, a touch waxy on the palate with corresponding saltiness, gently tannic with lemon iced tea. Will age really well. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2024

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

Godello with the AIS Sicila Sommeliers

Related – All the wines of Sicily

Tableside tasting at Sicilia en Primeur

En Primeur Sommelier Tastings

Spumante

Castellucci Miano Brut 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Distinctly catarratto with a lime twist and boundless energy. Scintillant style, high tempo, treble off the charts and length to boot. Just a lovely ceremonial bubble for happy occasions. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Gaudensius Metodo Classico Pas Dosé, Terre Siciliane IGT

So very curious and suggestive of glorious sparkling which is about as light in colour as any found anywhere this style is made. Not just Sicily and the near absence of skin contact time puts this is a singular space amongst peers, especially on Sicily with nerello mascalese. Drinks with ease yet also a controlled intensity of emotion. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 20244

Principe Di Corleone San Loé Brut 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP

Quiet and demure, crunchy and mounting momentum after first sips. Gains traction and stars to presume a great stage presence before lingering effortlessly. Just a bit of sweetness distracts but this is both a well made sparkling and consumer rounding one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Brut Nature Metodo Classico Enrica Spadafora 2018, Vino Spumante Di Qualità

Stays on lees for 36 months, Pas Dosé because all the wines are dry and that is the estate’s firm direction. Freshness yes but grape and slight gingery-oxidative character are the complexities urged forth by the grillo grape. Calming sparkling wine, all in order, pleasing and yes also complex. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Frappato Spumante Rosemosse 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Located in Butera within Caltinasetta, started in 2019 on an estate that had been abandoned for 30 years. Of 175 hectares, 18.5 are planted, 15 in production. Almonds, olives also part of production. Charmat method, soft press and after five months it spends two months on lees. Straight frappato, extra brut style and so 4 g/L of RS, tart, very strawberry, big energy groove and patterning on repeat. Tends and trends to the higher level on the Brut scale in terms of residual sugar yet early picked varietal acids keep the pace and faith. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Zahr Bianco Frizzante 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Zahr the flower from Arabic, a sparkling wine using grillo and chardonnay made at low pressure (max. 2.7 bars) and so not exactly by Charmat style, finishing at 12 percent alcohol and low residual sugar. Floral in every way, citrus is lime and the persistence very high for how this is made. Light bubble, easy and enjoyable. Spritz it up! Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Etna Brut Sessantamesi Metodo Classico 2016, Etna DOP

Reductive style, maturing, now in the middle road in terms of fruit and energy, high acidity yet also sugars running that way. A big and openly gregarious expression for a consumer who likes it sweet, sour, intense and wild. Last tasted May 202

Tenute Nicosia Sosta Tre Santi Brut Rosato Metodo Classico 2021, Etna DOP

Quite a dry, rusty and rosy Rosé sparkling, clean and fresh. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

The view from Splendid Hotel La Torre, Mondello

Rosato

Alessandro Di Camporeale Etna Rosato DOC Vignazza 2023

Funky, earthy and cheese rind, herbal and acidulated roasted peppers. Notable onion skin and red apples. Not the most balanced work with nerello mascalese. Drink 2024. Tasted May 2024

Baglio Di Pianetto Viafrancia Rosé 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Full, rich and substantial Rosé for those who wish for some pulp and flesh. An excess of red berry riches, proper acidity, only a pinch of residual sugar and persistence to satisfy in the end. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanera Etna Rosato DOC 2023

Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Rosé Di Adele 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

The ripest vintage and so picking early was necessary but Montoni is in the enviable position of elevation and also ventilation where crosswinds from Africa and the Mediterranean meet. In this place and of a warm vintage there is early ripeness but also thankfully phenolic development so that fleshy fruit, sweet and ripe acidity, then finally phenolic maturity all come into place. This bodes well for nerello mascalese as Rosé. There will be no one who does not find this delicious. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Le Casematte Etna Rosato DOC Rosematte 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

There is this style of Rosé made with nerello mascalese that just says light, dry, breezy an easy – this would define that to a “T.” The plus of all the fruit imagined and needed, a touch of sweetness and simplicity from start to finish. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosato DOC Mofete Rosato 2023

Serra Ferdinandea Rosato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Next step taken for Rosé on the south coast at Menfi with this upright and linear ’23 inching towards the profound. A balance and a confidence with 100 percent nero d’Avola that defines the idiom and begins to perfect the workmanship. Satisfying and also delicious, inciting the salivary glands and asking for more. Will gain interest and intersect with further complexities after 18 months further time in bottle. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Il Nostro Rosato 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Colour, which is quite dark is just from the skins, no pressing, fermented in concrete and aged in steel. A Tavel hue, natural and appreciated, without pith, tonics or bitters. Top quality mix of the salty and the sapid, the rich and the stony. Could drink a bucket full because of its 100 percent nero d’Avola flavour, honestly and balance. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Torre Mora Etna Rosato DOC Scalunera 2023

About as light and airy as it gets for Rosato, crunchy and salty, simple, easy and available. Chill, get at it and enjoy the fullness of a day. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

From Mangia Pollina Beach Resort

Etna Bianco DOC

Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Cavaliere 2022

Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2022

The Bianco carricante of Rinazzo are so very different to (especially) Cavaliere, namely because of humidity but also due to closer proximity to the sea. Here is a Superiore example, allowed to be labeled this way in the eastern area (of the village of Milo) and Bennati’s is richer, fuller and also more textural. Not just a case of lees but the aforementioned micro-climate really makes the case. A fine and impressive iteration indeed. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Campione: From three Contrada, carricante 100 percent, no issues with mildew because of an agronomist’s intensity of focus to root it out. Harvest in the first week of October and this comes away rich and full, so very developed and quite fruit explosive. Seven months of lees and stirring is very much in play this way. Fresh and full – just the way so many will find their love for this Etna Bianco. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Cottanerà Etna Bianco DOC Calderara 2022

Donnafugata Etna Bianco DOC Isolano 2021

About as curious and unique as it gets for Etna Bianco with this by Donnafugata at impressive elevation from a place called Isolano. The vintage delivers great sunshine and therefore ripeness for a maximum amount of fruit development that because of an extra year in bottle has now come to a place of generosity. More tang than saltiness and very ready to drink. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Firriato Cavanera Etna Bianco DOC Balza Delle Poiane, Contrada Zottorinotto 2022

Godello and Giuseppe Russo

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Nerina 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC Feudo 2023

Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco DOC San Lorenzo 2023

San Lorenzo as Bianco from Giuseppe Russo is not like other Etna Bianco because well, San Lorenzo. Wow is the operative because no other EB gives like this. Beyond flesh and stone but something that defines what the two can effect, layered so invisibly and magically together. It seems impossible to believe that extract and conversions could come together this way, urged and supported buy some of the mountain’s finest quality of acidity and white grape tannins. This must be the place, eh? Carricante with 10 percent catarratto and grecanico makes it happen. Drink 2025-2033. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC 2023

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Arcurìa 2022

Some wood on Arcurìa that the Classico Etna Bianco does not receive and so this is not as lean, nor is it vertically the same. Citrus mixes with mineral, some austerity and magic that makes this more complex. Crisp however, but fleshy because the concentration and the contrada want this wine to end up this way. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Bianco DOC Muganazzi 2022

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Imbris Contrada Caselle 2020

Nicosia Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Monte Gorna Biologico 2023

Quite rich and developed considering the youth and also a minor cheese rind lactic note in what feels like Etna Bianco working through its machinations. A bit awkward to be honest and a little bit of time should see some coming together. Then again the window is tight and so the time is just a bit ahead of now. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Bianco Di Sei 2022

Palmento Costanzo Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Santo Spirito 2021

Pietradolce Etna Bianco DOC Archineri 2022

La leggenda Patricia Tóth – Planeta

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

New label alert for Planeta’s 100 percent Passopisciaro carricante that celebrates, codifies and contemporizes the Etna eruption of 1614. Incredible intensity and roll in the hay of varietal beauty with striking acidity for what may just be the most brilliant shine ever noted in this emotional wine. Emozione indeed, of a respect for plants and place, of volcanic flows and their craggy rocks, of florals, herbals and all that lives and loves. The extra year in bottle intensifies, stratifies and solidifies both experience and intent. So fucking bon. Drink 2024-2033. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco DOC 2023

The ’23 Etna Bianco artist formerly known as Piano Dei Daini comes out of a hard vintage because of rain in June with some Perenospera issues, “but the carricante can handle the attack” explains Sofia Ponzini. No loss of fruit, harvest and vinification all together very much in a field blend way. The ten percent endemic varieties settle the carricante, neutralize its power and make for a most wholesome but always elegant Etna Bianco. A rinse of salty sea air meets Macchia Mediterranea. Sofia ends up happy but admits the wine needs bottle time, to sleep a bit, calm the energy and the power. Vibrancy is needy, crunchiness too, feel of the volcano so crucial and so all that is great but the drippy phenolic presence needs taming. That’s what time will effect. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Terra Costantino Etna Bianco DOC Contrada Blandano 2019

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC 2022

Classic Etna Bianco style that has come to be defined as “mountain wines” driven by volcanic soils. Here a rounded example with no sharp points, edges or spikes, fruit quotient run higher than most, riper and developed for immediate gratification. Substantial to every degree, acidity as sweet as it comes and everything so very up front. As good an introduction to the genre, idiom and place as there can be. Last tasted May 2024

Extreme unction and notable lees usage though keep in mind this is 2022. As young, impressionable and not quite out of the gangly stage as an Etna Bianco can act. Laden with lemon, much of it fresh squeezed, some unresolved phenolics (and aldehydes) and a shield of early structure or elastic membrane that is yet to slide away and reveal the full nature of what will surely be a cracker wine. Would much prefer to taste this a year from now. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2023

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Pietrarizzo 2022

Tornatore Etna Bianco DOC Zottorinotto 2021

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Chiuse Vidalba 2022

Torre Mora Etna Bianco DOC Scalunera 2023

Varietal carricante from Etna’s northern slope with just about as knowable and definable an Etna Bianco as there can be. This is Scalunera, of perfumes and fruit flavours yellow and green, crunchy and caught at the peak of freshness. What you call a dictionary entry that will be enjoyed by all – to great satisfaction. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Other DOC and IGT Whites

Donnafugata Passiperduti 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only grillo from Sicily’s west-central hinterland surrounded by hills and then the seas. Freshness and phenolics, lemon, grapefruit and botanicals, the things that grow around vineyards and up through the slopes. A crispy and lemon zested grillo like no other, made to order for grilled fish. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

What catarratto will do when a grower and winemaker like Fabio Sireci gets it into his hands – to offer perfumes of white flowers and flavours of green fruits, always fresh and delicate. Persistence and linger, the way it should and wants to be. One of Sicily’s most honest and consistent white wines. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Dei Fornelli 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Feudo Montoni’s will always be one of the most harmonic, restrained and yet phenolic-gripped meets mutli-floral/fruity inzolia of the island. The citrus intensity, a zesting of lemon and lime made liquid to seal the cracks puts this ’23 in a state of grace. Must try varietal wine if not the ideal vintage because of warmth that begot early ripening. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only Fabio Sireci’s grillo comes forward this way, with an equal combination of full fruit determination and linear capacity. The mix of Sicilian exoticism and knowable character puts this at a varietal level to bely the island capabilities of the lion’s share. Not surprising considering the pick begins in late August and finishes early in September. Freshness yes but so much more, first from natural matter and then because skipping past the noise to arrive here confirms Sireci’s intelligence to make a grillo understood in the hands of instinctive tasters and consumers. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Masseria Del Feudo Grillo Hermosa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Ideal middle of the road grillo example, white and yellow florals, lemon segmented and juiced, herbal and direct. A good chill on a warm day, some fried calamari and all will be right in the world. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Bianco Contrada Zisola 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Mazzei Zisola Azisa 2023, Sicilia DOC

Only stainless steel, short contact with the skins, made in a very traditional way. Perfectly arranged, straightforward and simple, of lemon citrus and white flowers by grillo that by now presses the idiom into Sicily’s concept of island time. Crunchy and just ever so slightly pith bitter, lemon again and again, unrelenting in style and quick by design. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2023, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Ripeness, juicy forthright quality and all in interface with what feels like every pore for both aromas and with the palate. The Terebinto, a.k.a Cyprus Turpentine never takes a break nor moves absently around. There is purpose in every aroma and flavour, not as an attack, but as a dance. This grillo gets better and better every year. Shiny happy leaves and people. Never out of time for this grillo. “Put it in the ground. where the flowers grow, gold and silver shine.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Bianco Alastro 2023, Menfi DOC

Varietal sauvignon blanc and not just any but from a southern Sicilian shore where the sea winds and scrublands are simply different to the Mediterranean side. All that matters conjoins for a whole new way to see the grape. Crispy and crunchy, salinity running amok and oysters or crunchy fried fishes (hopefully) waiting on the table. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

With the legend, Alessio Planeta

Planeta Allemanda 2023, Sicilia Noto DOC

It’s a moscato bianco but not the kind you think, in fact it’s not only bubbles that are missing from Planeta’s Noto example. Extract and tannin rise above sweetness and fruit though there is plenty of ripeness noted in the latter. Ripe vintage, perhaps less quantity, but quality fruit makes for a balanced moscato. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Fiano Cometa 2022, Sicilia Menfi DOC

The sole varietal fiano at Anteprima Siciliane 2024 and of course it is Cometa by Planeta which stands the test of island time. Alas and always the subtle smoulder, struck flint but a moment in time and a crunchy quality to supersede the herbs and the lime. Full vintage, well-developed for a fiano that will ready itself a year ahead of its average time. Cometa cometh with palates standing by the ready. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Didacus 2021, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Always the richest example of chardonnay with most honeyed flavours, spice cupboard and savoury eccentricities. The selection considers only the best, they being the ripest bunches with that uncanny ability to collect as mature, almost evolved feeling from its fruit to be converted into a magical example of Menfi. So much sunshine, luxe and refulgence, almost so bright you gotta wear shades sort of chardonnay. A top vintage because acidity, extract and tannin all layer in heaps. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Principe Di Corleone Ridente Angelica 2023, Sicilia DOC

Cool, ethereal, minty, salt-licked and kissed, stoic and proud. Herbal and botanical, of bay laurel and thyme, lemon preserve and the morning juice. Some may find the tonic a bit gin-washed but who should not love these flavours and the style all the same? Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Francesco and Enrica Spadafora

Spadafora Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

From vineyards Between 200-400m, a place of sandy soils where freshness is the order for catarratto and yet there is some tropical fleshiness about the ’23 by Spadafora. Would not exactly say salty but more so a split between salinity and sapidity because there are some phenolic moments in this wine. Harmonious and just complex enough to rise above the norm. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Don Pietro Bianco 2023, Terre Siciliane IGP

Named after Francesco Spadafora’s father (and Enrica’s grandfather) who started the winery in 1993. A bit higher in acidity than the straight catarratto because of the inclusion of grillo and so a higher saltiness, succulence and energy. This is expressive of attitude in such a good way. Will gain interest after a couple of years. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Grillo Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

For the grillo the plants are kept to a relative minimum vigour but cutting away the “moustache and the tail” while keeping the interno. Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and just a few months on lees. Remarkably if subtly flinty, smouldering and textural, simply from land and grape, coming together for a really unique effect. It’s truly Spadafora, their place and how they allow this quality to speak. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Siriki Orange 2017, Terre Siciliane IGP

Grillo on skins for 30 days, now nearly seven years of age yet freshness somehow persists. Surely owing to clean lees and how they lay to present themselves as they continue to ready their host. Enrica Spadafora explains how she and her father were wanting to have a different style of orange and also this is grillo, not your every day average variety for the style. Was structured and has now settled, though there are some tannic moments drying the palate in the end. Impressive all in all, seemingly ambitious, but the result is there. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Sofien 2023, Terre Siciliane IGT

Half and half grillo and chardonnay, as with all the wines they are called “Totò Navarra,” first and last name of the owner and you can’t just use Navarra because well, Spain. Totò, as in Salvatore. Fruit, flowers, simple, sunshine and some chardonnay backbone, but just clean and fresh which is just what is needed. Fine and easy yet acidity and persistence are essential and the finish more sapid than salty. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted May 2024

Etna Rosso DOC

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Diciassettesalme 2022

Cottanerà Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Feudo Di Mezzo 2020

Cottanerà Etna Rosso Riserva DOC Zottorinoto 2019

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC ‘A Rina 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Calderara Sottana 2022

The juiciest of all the ‘22s for Giuseppe Russo and if also the least structured there can and should be no complaints. Reeking of and oozing nerello mascalese flavours so cherry red, fresh, clean and particular. There are no others like this – the level of energy without unnecessary heated intensity is remarkable. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo Di Mezzo 2022

The allure of Feudo is real, the consistency of its fuxed expression divine and the work in Giuseppe Russo’s world a conduit to access the sublime. Sure there is a quiet restraint at this early stage of 2022’s tenure but how could we miss the high levels of fruit and structure combining for purpose and potential? A big and full Feudo from the variable vintage, chewy and layered, stratified volcanics making sure that when maturity comes there will always be mineral. What a Feudo indeed. Peak of Feudo freshness out of the embers and smoulder of a warm season. The secret is Etna and this section of the vineyard. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC Feudo 2022

Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso DOC San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2021

Laying down expectation can be a dangerous thing, but can’t be helped some times. Knowing Giuseppe Russo and the Piano delle Colombe block of the San Lorenzo vineyard will induce and send thoughts down such a path from a 2021 that not only matches but exceeds what was thought to be possible. Aromatically positive signs and the deliverance of a fleet of nearly perfected ripenesses come to such a consummated fruition are come upon by way of unconscious results. Optimal not optimum, because there is no such thing, but only the attainable which in this case is superlative balance. Harmonies of all parts, out of field to bottle, through every rise, depression and plateau, from start to finish and everything in between. The critical moments are found, like cooking a perfect steak, pushing your finger into its soft middle fleshy belly and feeling the exact spring back desired. A greta or pearl of a nerello mascalese, a highway tune, “so sweet, so fine, so nice, all mine. “I prefer ’21,” admits Russo. Smart man. Drink 2024-2036. Tasted May 2024

Alberto Graci

Graci Etna Rosso DOC 2022

From estate vineyards at 650-750m, fermented and aged for 18 months in concrete though once in a while a little bit of big barrel is used. Linear, stoic, restrained and serious Etna Rosso for Rosso’s sake but also trenchant intention. Crispy and crunchy, vertical and youthful. Fresh, even a bit reductive , so peppery and a year away from that open window. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa 2021

Graci Etna Rosso DOC Arcurìa Sopra Il Pozzo 2019

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC Pistus 2022

From L’Etna’s northern side at Contrada Muganazzi, only stainless aging, no wood and thank you very much. I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell’Etna have been working with this contrada since the beginning (2007) though Pistus the label dates to 2012. Some volatility though just a hint and not too distracting, Amaro herbal and very complex. Big wine though fresh, crispy and crunchy, with good freshness. Serious lift to this Etna Rosso. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Palmento Costanzo DOC Etna Rosso Nero Di Sei 2020

Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Santo Spirito

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante 2020

The most developed for Rampante with a spicy 2020 aromatic entry, concentrated and refined while residing on the darker red fruit side of the line. Lift, balsamico gariga, bay laurel, crunchy and herbal. So very complex and as far as Etna nerello mascalese goes there is more savoury depth from this by Pietradolce. Full-bodied in all these regards, breadth and volume guaranteed. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Santo Spirito 2020

Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Barbagalli 2019

Planeta Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2020, Terre Siciliane IGT

From the single vineyard in Passopisciaro, site of some of the oldest lava flows on Etna, the 1614 volcanic spill. Another high glycerol event as nerello mascalese because this is what this vineyard must effect upon fruit and 2020 abides. Of course it does but also delivers the kind of Rosso that does not beg for years of waiting. The tannins are sneaky but not austere, the acidity so sweet you would like to spoil it as dessert. More precise than the Etna Rosso (mainly from Feudo) but clearly nella famiglia. Last tasted May 2024

Brightest and highest of scintillant nerello mascalese at impressive elevation on soils developed from the mountain’s 1614 eruption, in other words ancient but still young by world standards. Each and every lava flow resulting in volcanic soils is different on Etna and this 406 year-old tract is unequivocally responsible for Planeta’s 2020 style. Sure the winemaker might have a say but her job is to let the vineyard speak which she does as well as any artista/professionalista on the mountain. Buon lavoro PT. Stupendo. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted May 2023

Tasca d’Almerita Tascante Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Pianodario

Tenute Bosco Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC 2021

Tornatore Etna Rosso DOC Pietrarizzo 2020

Other DOC and IGT Reds

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato 2021, Terre Siciliane IGT

Candied floral aromas, of pansies and nasturtium namely with a lift so very suggestive. There is a note of Brettanomyces yet at a subtle level and while the effect is slight the palate trails into a momentary lapse of brittle tannin. Still the beauty and the natural smile of this frappato are intoxicating and we simply will not turn away. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Castellucci Miano Frappato 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

Not the most openly fragrant frappato with red berries the most notable entry but no real overt sense of florals. Sweetly herbal, cherry drop and then sweet basil before the palate feels the full true nature of the wine. Cool and gelid with a mint to bay layer herbal feel for a wine well made if pressed just a smidgen past prime. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Frappato Bell’Assai 2022, Vittoria DOC

Straight ahead Vittoria frappato, floral and striking, citrus up front part green and part red, like cranberry and pomegranate with a chiffonade of tarragon. Some chewy quality here, of liquorice and fruit leather, flavour profile high and acidity cool, tart and fine. Gets better with each subsequent sniff and sip. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Donnafugata Floramundi 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

Lifted, high spirit and tone, herbal, juicy and citrusy for the frappato-nero d’Avola Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend. On the light and transparent side of such an appellative joint which suggests more frappato and also choice of style. Light and linear, suggestively tannic and a great food wine for that meat to fish overlapping. Liquid chalky and lengthy. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Sandwich – Between Fabio Sireci and Melissa Muller

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Terre Di Elio 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A very good vintage for the variety though her recent tasting from tank causes Melissa Muller to say that ‘23 “will be even more vertical.” That said the ’22 is not your average, every day nerello mascalese, not by any stretch of the Sicilian imagination. Fully formed, attractive and finding no obstacle to hinder leaving its impression. Balanced throughout, without equivocation, fruit followed by acidity, stepping back to fruit before than fast forwarding two steps to really fine tannins. Lightens as it moves and finishes pretty much where it started. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Perricone Core 2022, Terre Siciliane IGT

A perricone from Fabio Sireci of as much substantial fruit up front as the winemaker has ever put together. Aromatic volume gives way to palate and mouthfeel where depth and breadth really take centre stage. Big in terms of fruit presence though not the most structured ever. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Lagnusa 2022, Sicilia DOC

Lagnusa may be hard to say but it is never hard to drink and enjoy to fullest extent of Sicilian nero d’Avola law. Or joy because its mix of local savoir faire, freshness and understated structure make it as ideal a five to seven year wine as any on the island. One of those crunchy exterior, chewy interior neros that remain constant from start to finish. Grace, charm and honesty incarnate. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara 2020, Sicilia DOC

Increasingly the use of sun-dried stems are added back in after some time, like sweet wood notes that alter Vrucara’s physiology for the best. The number is 20-25 percent in 2020. If there are weak vintages of Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara they are yet to be revealed and this 2020 resides near the top of the island’s nero d’Avola chain. Just walk the vineyard, in fact just hear the history and explanations from Fabio Sireci’s mouth and you will understand. Richness meets structure for balance at the vanishing point as if we sit at the bottom of the hill looking upwards from the vineyard, up to the Baglio and then the sky. The fruit is special from 2020, already showing the first subtle hints of maturity and the tannins are perhaps the sweetest ever designed. When Vrucara hits the five year mark it will entrench itself as one of Sicily’s finest drinking red wines for five more. It’s abilities transcend grape and island to last for five more after that before starting its slow five to ten year declension. Is there better value in top grade nero d’Avola from Sicilia? Drink 2025-2035. Tasted May 2024

Zisola definitely suits Filippo Mazzei

Mazzei Zisola 2022, Noto Rosso DOC

Mazzei Zisola Achilles 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

Just a 5,000 bottle production, not released until it sees an extra year in bottle. “Planted from the very the beginning,” because explains Fiippo Mazzei, “syrah was fashionable at the time, but then the Bordeaux varieties went in.” A very structured wine, also showing the wood more than the nero but concentration is so full and the wine just as grippy that it needs the fortification. A solid construct that will unfold after five to 10 years of time. Befitting its name. Drink 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024

Mazzei Zisola Doppiozeta 2021, Noto DOC

Mazzei Zisola Effe Emme 2021, Sicilia DOC

Planeta Frappato 2023, Vittoria DOC

About as fruity and openly floral as frappato will be to say that the style continues to evolve in the most positive way. Without distraction and encumbrance, set to aim, be received and please, without biting or striking back. There is some lift in Planeta’s 2023, in part because youth is a rebellious time to be frappato, but we know this too shall pass and the wine will settle without struggle. The fruit will remain and the song continue to play the same. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted May 2024

Planeta Nocera 2023, Sicilia DOC

Planeta Santa Cecilia 2021, Noto DOC

Planeta Didacus Cabernet Franc 2018, Sicilia Menfi DOC

Now in release mode at near six years past vintage and believe when you hear that six more are needed to fully develop the structural intensity so that all parts get to working as one. For now feel the positivity of varietal fruit so obvious and layered, concentrated and confident, but in truth there is a submission to the tannins. They are grainy and chalky, not austere, but yes aggressive. Be patient – this Didacus is a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2036. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Principe G 2023, Terre Sicilane IGP

The freshest of Spadafora’s nero d’Avola where acidity runs high, tannins lower and lighter wines are produced (in an area considered best for syrah). Fresh yes but there is a mild amount of Brettanomyces here, nothing striking but present. Natural wine lovers may just find this to their liking. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Don Pietro 2020, Terre Siciliane IGP

A blend of nero d’Avola, merlot and cabernet sauvignon (40,30,30), aged in only concrete and steel for freshness first. Chalkiness arrives second with thanks surely to soil and here some Brett but also volatility that is a bit distracting. Again it’s just a fractional amount but it is there, however less so than the solo nero d’avola. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah 2021, Terre Siciliane IGP

Fermented in concrete and aged in steel, the freshest syrah that can be made to drink quickly, easily and without hesitation. Cleaner and fresher than the entry nero d’Avola with meatiness and mild peppery grip, though no real density to speak of. Great classic example for all red wine needs. You can chill this one. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Syrah Sole Dei Padri 2012, Terre Siciliane IGP

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Merlot Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

First vintage though merlot has been growing for many years and so after many trials it has been decided to make a solo effort. Proper, merlot-ness straight away, fruity and verdant. Clean and the land gives the life, breathes of fresh air and soil earthiness that runs complex if dry through the wine. Fine merlot, chic, suave and rewarding. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted May 2024

Spadafora Vignaioli In Sicilia Nero d’Avola Schietto Selezione Limitada 2016, Terre Siciliane IGP

Ferments in concrete, ages in steel and 50 percent goes to barrel before going back to tank. Pretty much seven-plus years in total. Maturing and while there are some drying oxidative notes in dried fruit and herbs there is also freshness, acidity and energy. True nero d’Avola locution imagined as Riserva comparable with many other Italian wines, while harmony and style really tell the story. Very, very well made wine with great further potential for aging. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted May 2024

The team at Totò Navarra

Tenute Navarra Disiato 2023, Sicilia DOC

Dark sandy soils and also light clay to effect frappato more towards the lighter side. Raised only in stainless steel, maintaining ultra freshness, clarity and my goodness this is so drinkable. Top acidity with simple tannin, far from grippy though it’s there, “to wash the mouth.” Crunchy and easy. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Maribu 2022, Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG

The classic mix of nero d’avola and frappato, here in 2022 the blend is 50-50 when sometimes it can be 70-30 or 60-40. A vintage where the two work seamlessly together and frappato carries more meaning than it often will. All sorts of berries, one after another, an apothem of a Cerasuola from which drinkability meets structure pretty much halfway there. A linear blend that travels from its centre to the midpoint of one of its sides. Really fine, of top quality freshness and clarity. Tonnino Guzzo is a winemaker who obviously keeps an immaculate cellar and makes the cleanest wines. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted May 2024

Tenute Navarra Battichié 2021, Sicilia DOC

Battichié, a lullaby that Totò’s mother Maria used to sing to him when he was a child. One year in French barriques, one in steel and then followed by another in bottle. Truth is the grape and soils do show through, even while this remains so youthful, once again proving a winemaker’s acumen and ability. No over use of wood, still clear and fresh with more pieces to the varietal puzzle already there yet still to develop. Ten year nero d’avola for sure. Drink 2025-2032. Tasted May 2024

Good to go!

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Chardonnay is never too cool for school

Jul31

Flight #1 at the 2024 School of Cool
(c) i4C

Will fully admit to having seriously considered not using the word “cool” in the title for this latest exposé on i4C, Niagara’s annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Conference. Then good conscience and reality set in because the original dub for Canada’s most important and successful wine congress will always be too good to dismiss. They coined it, built it and people have most certainly come. To foresee and then to consummate this collective pursuit of excellence inscribes Cool Chardonnay into the lexicon of wine forever. Hard to predict just how many more of these joyous to potentially annual profound (four-day) weekends there will be, but were this the last then hundreds upon hundreds of producers, winemakers, media, influencers and consumers over the years will have walked away happy, better for it and with memories to last a lifetime. The extraordinary 2024 edition of i4C went deeper still, to deliver the coolest quality and finest balance between information, socialization, revelry, society and of course, chardonnay. Cool as ever, gotta be cool, relax and never too cool for school.

Three panels of i4C School of Cool 2024

The School of Cool gets into sessions with wise and wily words from Past Chair Suzanne Janke, a lifer for the cool climate cause, public face of Stratus Vineyards and light of the room. Janke’s input, along with the i4C Board, Concierge Kim Auty and Event Director Trisha Molokach shows a highest level of intuition for what can only be judged as a cracker choice for keynote speaker at the 2024 School of Cool. That would be the affable character, next level intelligence and dry as the desert humour of Austrian-born, London-living Master of Wine Stefan Neumann. Mr. Neumann peeks out from behind his little boy grin to invoke the legend that is Laura Catena, to introduce his intentions as it pertains to cool climate chardonnay. “She slapped me on the brain and said there is no such thing as good warm climate chardonnay.” The wheels are turning, theories circulate and then from his own powers of reasoning Stefan announces, “I really think the world needs to know more about Canada and cool climate chardonnay, because it’s really important.” Not that he is late to the party, but the choir nods silently and knowingly, all smiling wryly. You can hear the collective internal dialogue working. “We like this guy.” Then he speaks to they who are not in the room. “Every cool chardonnay has a cool admirer out there,” he insists, “just as every pot has a lid.” The analogy might have got lost in translation from within the history of some ironic Viennese dialect. Note to self: Send Ernst Molden a note to ask for clarification. In any case Neumann comes from a place of hospitality. “As a guest you need someone who can help you,” he explains. “As a sommelier, if I’m going to explain cool climate chardonnay to a guest I’m not going to start with the Winkler classification.” Truer words never spoken.

School of Cool
(c) i4C

South Africa’s Anthony Hamilton Russell leads the first session where things turn immediately laugh out loud funny, if simply because Hamilton Russell is an Afrikaans lekker of off-the-charts intellect, dry wit and a brand of self-deprecating meets sweet roasting and toasting humour that is by all accounts infectious. “The only constant is change,” he begins with an address that may or may not attempt to tackle climate change. “All the hard rains and frosts are just noise in the background and it’s about how we are going to deal with it.” Anthony wisely chooses to order the chardonnay tasting from north to south. His first notation is to explain “how important it is to precipitate proper dormancy in chardonnay.” Then he poses the question, “what is the worst climate problem?“ He is answered by (Nova Scotia’s) Blomidon Estate winemaker Simon Rafuse. “Depending on when you ask me, the answer will be about what just happened.” For Adamo’s Vanessa McKean “it’s a big catch up in the spring to get ahead of things, remove the (geo-thermal) blankets as late as possible before the weeds get out of hand and also late frosts compounded by the textiles still in surround of the vines.” Westcott’s Casey Kulczyk notes that bud break occurs earlier, growing seasons are warmer and ripening is quicker, while also more uneven. Are you sensing a (lack of) discernible Canadian patterning? Even in winemaking, from west to east Canada is comprised of many different vine-growing countries.

Sparkling Flight led by Peter Rod
(c) i4C

Session two is led by Peter Rod, he of chivalrous and consortable character, a prodigy and mentor for Niagara educator royalty and if the audience thinks Neumann’s humour is dry, they are then treated to Rod’s mix of dead-pan, amusement and bemusement. Fine decision to put Peter at the fore for the Sparkling wine flight because nowhere does that category receive more attention, research and investigation than that at his seat of higher learning. Peter Rod is surrounded by bubbles at Brock University’s CCOVI where fizz is considered on a daily basis. An effervescent panel delves deep into discourse for what Peter dubs as “Bubbles on the Rise.” Then the third set of eight pours, this time returning to still waters, holds title for “Chardonnay Unbound,” a varietal discovery with different faces, from different countries. Stefan Neumann returns and keeps the room engaged. Then Suzanne Janke is back at the podium and tells the audience her outfit blends seamlessly into the drapes, as if no one had noticed. Janke’s words are sing-song, showing the skills of a melodist with a sweeping sense of purpose. All she says focuses on the patrons, panelists and chardonnay, but never the I. Piano-woman, “quick with a joke or to light up your smoke….Oh, la, la-la, di-dee-da. La-la, di-dee-da, da-dum.”

With Katie Dickieson, Emma Garner and Ben Minaker – Andrew Peller Ltd.

In the end these are three memorable panel experiences at the 2024 i4C Cool Chardonnay School of Cool. Three expertly moderated sessions by Anthony Hamilton Russell, Peter Rod and keynote speaker Stefan Neumann MS. Intel of the highest order from 21 Chardonnay winemakers. In 12 years of attending this conference there has never been a better organized, finer seamless set of transitions or more to learn. Bravo to Concierge Kim Auty, Event Director Trisha Molokach, Past Chair Suzanne Janke, the producers and entire team of volunteers. Friday night we tasted Friday Night Flights with the producers at Cherry Lane Farms in Vineland. On Saturday night we returned for Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting and Dinner at The Riverbend Inn, Niagara-on-the-Lake. And there were visits orchestrated by the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario’s Andrea Peters. To Chef Ryan Crawford’s Bar Ruffino with J-L Groux, Dean Stokya and Suzanne Janke of Stratus Vineyards. To Dobbin Estate with Wade Dobbin, Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling. To Flat Rock Cellars with Ed Madronich. To Le Clos Jordanne with Thomas Bachelder, Phillip Brown, Kerri Crawford and tasty treats from Chef Crawford. Finally, an i4C lunch at Westcott Vineyards’ Butlers’ Grant Vineyard with Grant Westcott, Carolyn Hurst, Casey Kulczyk and magnificence from Chef Tim Mackiddie. Alas, here are 83 tasting notes, 63 for chardonnay and 20 others.

Three panel blinds

Blomidon Estate Winery Chardonnay 2021, Nova Scotia

“We have been growing chardonnay since the 1990s,” tells winemaker Simon Rafuse. “We can definitely ripen and picking is weeks ahead of the past, but we have experienced more extreme climate events in the last decade, whether it be frost, flash flooding, polar vortexes, hurricanes and disease pressure.” His ’21 is made in a clean style, whole cluster pressed, on lees for 12 months. Sharp yet rich, intense while full, apropos, meaningful and direct. Top vintage without a shadow of a doubt. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Adamo Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2022, VQA Ontario

From an emerging Ontario region – Hockley Valley. Does not quite feel like 100 percent chardonnay musqué but more like an interplanting or layering with some linear, vertical and incisive Burgundian chardonnay. Less fruit from this bottle replaced by mineral salts yet with no compromise to the flowers by musqué. Producers and consumers of fleshy to buttery chardonnay will find holes but the rest will relish in this outcome all the same. “We farm in an area not great for growing grapes” says winemaker Vanessa McKean. ”We don’t have a large body of water to mitigate extreme temperatures so we cover out our entire 18 acres with geo-textile blankets.” Air flow through the vineyard is essential and being at the top of the hill is helpful. Barrel fermented in neutral wood with the musqué portion delivering more floral notes than most Ontario chardonnay. There is a tinned orchard fruit character that invites more than it distracts and the sharpness of this palate journeying acidity is really quite special. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted twice at i4C, July 2024

The winemakers are alright – Westcott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Block 76 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

From the home farm of 26 acres and the lowest elevation, teardrop block on shales and gravels, facing east. Earlier ripening, acid retentive and sees 10 months in barriques, followed by six months in puncheon filled with the previous vintages’ clean lees. Like connective tissue that links the past to the present to prepare the chardonnay for a longer future. Texture is mineral, set below tannin, in command of the palate from a chardonnay built to celebrate and also abide by it’s double-barrelled shotgun approach. Fires, attacks and conquers the palate from above and below so that there is no escape. Spirit of ’76 all the way with more vibrancy than ever. Impressive like few others. Will age really well. Made for seafood dishes poached, bathed and sautéed in butter. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Greg Yemen – The Organized Crime

The Organized Crime Winery Inc. Chardonnay Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench

As implosive and protected as any Niagara chardonnay to speak of a year older example that acts and feels as young as any on recent record. Terrific sweetness of fruit and a testament to a full and in this case also long ripening season. Crisp and biting, orchard fruit crunch and no sign of breaking down. Gambles with nature, shows off precision winemaking and confidence exudes from a chardonnay constantly reopening and one you can do so much with. There are savoury elements that suggest food pairing with be a most fun and rewarding exercise. Last tasted twice at i4C, July 2024

Powerful, reductive and in charge chardonnay, assuming the risk and in delivery of the reward. Platinum gold hue and attitude, serious, grippy and über conscious of its abilities. Top notch with vanilla and cereals that swirl into the full fruit complement of a chardonnay you just bloody want to drink. Consume away, with abandon because it asks this of you. Abide and oblige. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted blind at NWAC2022, June 2022

Kellerei Bozen Chardonnay Riserva Stegher 2020, Alto Adige, Italy

From a vineyard at 650m with picking happening at least a week earlier than just 10 years ago and a dolomitic mountain air that breathes great life into this special sort of cool climate chardonnay. A yellow apple just short of ripe, with acidity sweeter than the drupe itself and a classic northerly sharpness that speaks to place as well as any European chardonnay. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Planeta Chardonnay 2022, Sicilia DOC

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2023, WO Hemel En Aarde Valley, South Africa

The spirited intensity is unrelenting and speaks to how the HRV chardonnay tastes more profoundly serious than any other of its ilk. “Young and primary,” insists Anthony Hamilton Russell. “I like the complexity that our chardonnay develops with time in the bottle.” Well said but truth be told the wine already exhibits an electric variegate character and so what’s to come may just blow the mind. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Freshness and abundance incarnate for Hemel-en-Aarde Valley chardonnay from the HR team that simply gets this grape from this place. A citrus vintage, less reductive than some whilst bursting with energy. Delight in lemon custard, all the zest, crunchy, mellifluously honeyed and never over-arching above and beyond the target. A scintillant of fruit through variety, to ache with love and to please, simply and unequivocally by design. Peak performance, summarily in the best of ways. Drink 2024-2029. Tasted July 2024

The Foreign Affair Blanc de Blancs 2021, Methode Traditionelle VQA Vinemount Ridge

Light toast, easy goes, no long lees but a good signed lease to hang around for a few years time. True as chardonnay blanc de blanc, apples part terpene and part mashed. Smells like baked and cooled apple pie. Palate spirit yet agin those apples are all over, all consuming and all in. Some wood aging, Brut in style, somewhere between six and 10 g/L of dosage laid over 24 months leased lees aging. The second iteration of this sparkling wine. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

The bottle lists Vinemount Ridge as the fruit source though the website writes Lincoln Lakeshore so lets go with the bottle! Regardless we are looking at 100 percent chardonnay crafted in the dry, intense, citric, high energy style. This shows real energy and a couple of sips nearly take your breath away. The elucidations are green apple, piques of white pepper and the flavour profile slash texture much like sabayon extended by a few shots of limoncello. So much interest here. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted November 2023

Stonebridge Blanc De Blanc Brut Nature 2020, VQA Four Mile Creek

More autolytic than some and even more than that, mellow, malolactified and softening quickly. Botanical flavours and fine bitters, creamy style, easy and ready. From chardonnay first made off of the estate in 2017 and looking forward to seeing what can be learned from the idylls of experience towards trying this first sparkling wine made at Stonebridge. Old puncheons and stainless steel combine for a punchiness that come out of several cuvées to try and abide by site, structure and ultimately consumer appeal. Richness of the site begets texture and in turn that appeal. The flavours persist though this is ready to drink sooner than many. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Kew Vineyards Blanc de Blanc 2017, VQA Beamsville Bench

Golden toast, truly brioche style, equipped with fruit a plenty marked by a note that reminds of good and plenty. Stage presence, persistence and length. A dosage of 5.9 g/L of residual sugar which may be the highest in a flight of eight but still very low for sparkling that is essentially dry. Made by Phillip Dowell with chardonnay that would have been planted on the property back in 1980. As concentrated as it gets for chardonnay sparkling wine but the vintage was acid driven and so the sugar extends the flesh. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

High energy, raging acidity, captivating and intense Blanc de Noirs right here. Eye-opening, olfactory shocking and palate enervating in every which way but loose. Taut, tight and demanding. Party wine. Drink 2020-2023. Tasted October 2020

Leaning Post Traditional Method Sparkling Blanc de Blancs 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench

From Hemeris Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, primary fermentation for six months in barrel, another six with lees and then the full lees aging of 36 months. An emotive sparkling wine that elicits and solicits emotion. Could this be a unicorn wine in its own special way? Evocative of what it makes you feel and what you would like a bubble to taste like? The long lees aging is clearly appropriate and leads the autolysis to a place of warmth, beauty and comfort. Oxidative and yet searing, a blanc be blancs no doubter that mans serious chardonnay business. Complex and curious, crafty and creative.The acidity here is special and in charge. An ideal mix of 9.2 g/L of total acidity and 3 g/L of residual sugar. “The vineyard was asking to become this kind of wine” explains Ilya Senchuk. “The purpose is a single vineyard expression.” Here’s to hoping the 2019 will add a few more months on lees to take that next step upwards. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Single vineyard block called Hemeris (an old term for garden, or “something like that,” from the Greek). Of chardonnay, location between (Hidden Bench’s) Rosomel Vineyard and Cave Spring, picked late September and sometimes early October, for sparkling. Base wine is barrel fermented and aged in oak for six months. Spent 36 months on lees in bottle, finished at 2 g/L dosage (so essentially bone dry) and is now about to be released. This was the wine Nadia Senchuk pushed her husband for and this is the chardonnay tract that was needed to create it. Listen to the vineyard says Ilya, “because it’s basically growing bubbles.” Rich and exciting in the same breath, essential through autolytic response elicited and the breath stolen, literally taken away, every move made for the connection between I and it. An auspicious debut and were it not for the prophetic mind and ravishing palate of the winemaker’s better half, well then access to supply might not be so limited. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022

Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars Brut Reserve R.D. 2014, VQA Okanagan Valley

Always pleased to welcome the BR R.D. into a glass and here is an old but a proverbial goody, that being 2014 and consumers must be reminded just how special this research and development is to determine the excellence of Blue Moutnain’s indagative sparkling wine. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, the first 10 percent more than the last with some of the most restrained, reserved and demure aromatics in the Okanagan Valley. All ways to say this is lovely, quietly generous and so settled to gift pleasure above all else. A most complex game of citrus and orchard fruit, distillate by nature, expertly seasoned with fine sea salt, white pepper and lemongrass powder. Such a gift nine years after vintage at a ridiculously reasonable price. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Traditional Method, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment

Stoic, reserved, full scenting, flavoured and expressive. Tons of fruit here in what could only be 100 percent chardonnay. From a vineyard planted in the 1990s to Clone 95 chardonnay and a place of incredible consistency, “one of the most I’ve ever worked with,” tells winemaker Lawrence Buhler. Sees 54 months on its lees and while it may be difficult four to five years ahead to know what will happen – this is Ontario’s benchmark sparkling wine that always comes through. Not merely a matter of replication but more like intuition conjoined with persistence. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Consistently crafted as a Blanc de Blancs that sees 60 months on the lees from estate grown chardonnay. From a varietal growing season so ideally destined for sparkling wine because a cool and wet spring plus summer emerged in late August to hot days and cool nights through October. In the middle of that spell is the chardonnay pick for sparkling and as good, complex and riveting as this arch-classic Ontario bubble may have been before – well bring on 2017 for next level complexities. Tasty, piquant and toothsome, of toasty brioche like never before and this swirl of creamy fruits and exotic seasonings. Feels like aged Growers’ Champagne and the fact that it is from Niagara makes it all that much more satisfying. Plenty of crunch, succulence and acid-driven energy from a meticulous bubble. The benchmark for local. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted November 2023

Jacques Viljoen – Boschendal

Boschendal Cap Classique Jean Le Long Prestige Cuvée Blanc De Blancs 2012, WO Elgin

Presented by cellar master Jacques Viljoen for a sparkling wine coming from one of South Africa’s coolest climate area. The first vintage was 2007 and these are vines planted south-facing (i.e. cooler in the southern hemisphere) and facing the sea. A place where grapes can hang long and develop phenolic ripeness even while coming in at a brix number just above 19. Lower dosage now and so the autolytic notes (if not globally classic in their expression) and also excitement are increased. As much toast, autolytic and oxidative notes as any in a blind flight of eight. Pushes the envelope to see what can be done with sparkling wine, malolactic fermentation, wood aging, near dry dosage and lees aging. Not so much the classic brioche or baked bread representation but there are complex notions perceived from that aforementioned style clearly chosen, conceived, attempted and for the greater part, succeeded. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Kyle Loney and Whitney Collins – Advini and Domaine Laroche

Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Vaudevey Premier Cru 2022, Bourgogne AOC, France

The immediate feeling perceived would be of a chardonnay bottled with lees, of a certain level of autolysis though neither by brioche or with respect to the sparkling kind. More like washed cheese rind, preserved lemon and that kind of texture that skin contact whites also deliver. The sort that settles on the tongue like a dissolving salve but here the subtlety suggest lees in the bottle more than light “orange.” In fact this is essential Chablis and does it not just feel like Ontario winemakers (in particular) are trying to emulate such a style by keeping lees in their bottles? Drink 2024-2028. Tasted blind i4C, July 2024

Deux Roches Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes Deux Roches 2022, Bourgogne AOC, France

Also a bottled with lees style of chardonnay with a level of richness so rightly and righteously older/traditional schooled, but so bloody clean and expertly made. Express and expert tang, layers of citrus, more grapefruit than many, fine tonics and also sweet bitters. There is some fat here but also acidity and verticality, in other words tension, more so than many of the appellation. Recommended by Export Manager Romain Bourgeois and also Stefan Neumann M.S. to pair with The Little Sparrow, a.k.a. La Vie En Rose, the one and only Édith Piaf. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Bachelder Chardonnay Grimsby Hillside Vineyard Frontier Block 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

So much to digest, first with knowledge of chardonnay in the hands of one monkified human that shall be named Bachelder and second of so much to take in and absorb from the label on the bottle. Niagara Cru (there are many), Single Vineyard (there are more), Grimsby Hillside Vineyard (current status Grand Cru, in progress) and Frontier Block (one of two within the great new frontier, inclusive of Red Clay Barn). Two-toned, of bites and textural chew, sexy chardonnay, clean and focused. Highest level aromatics at the peak of what is possible out of Ontario, positively spicy, white peppery even. Cleanest lees usage for a chardonnay of clarity and relatively speaking, also substance. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Vintage number three from Grimsby Hillside Vineyard and now more specific by way of a split, with the Frontier Block as the plot within the larger plot, along with that of Red Clay Barn. Drilling down into this historical vineyard that has risen as fast as any New World terroir, just about anywhere these sorts of things are measured. Here named for the final frontier, that being the “last terroir” in Niagara and who knows, maybe it will soon be the first rolling off of everyone’s lips. GHV-FB 2021 is a force, that much is clear from the first look. Or nose, for what matters. Cool and stony style from a wide open space where limestone, shale and gravels conspire to create something new and with absolute potential. It’s already arrived thank you very much and while words like luxe and opulent do not come to the tip, others like succulent and scintillating do. Just something so real and right at your doorstep, vivid beyond chardonnay compare, a stealth fish swimming in clear waters. Truly complex for chardonnay and it must be noted, unlike any other in the world though at the same time feeling like something you’ve known your whole life. Make an exception to delve into this exception because when it comes to chardonnay, this is what we need. Remarkable clarity and distinction, precision extraordinaire and a wine to cast nets far and wide to secure as many bottles that could be found. Drink 2024-2032. Tasted December 2023

Thirty Bench Chardonnay Small Lot Extended Lees Aging 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

Spent 22 months in barrel, in other words space was not needed for new juice after 10, nor did Emma Garner feel the need to remove this lot and so 22 months it was. For good reason, great measure and bonafide success. You know the extra wood melt is there and integration is so complete. No compromise to fruit from a vintage aboard the Beamsville Bench that gave of itself selflessly to mingle in cahoots with the cohorts of those barrels and nuances at every turn. Acumen begets probability which in turn generates prospect. Conclusions drawn are expressed with silent nods, a twinkle and smile. This will age gracefully for 10 years. Tasted a second time, July 2024

Maximum ripeness, warm vintage no doubt, captured and locked into what feels like a reserve style of chardonnay. Full and fine, fleshy and yet sturdy, chiseled musculature, riveting and attention so locked in. As is ours because we simply can’t turn away. Not an easy vintage tells Emma Garner because there was some rot, botrytis and less than desirable grapes. But there was also plenty of great fruit once the chaff was culled, the wheat came in and in turn a terrific chardonnay was made. The length is outstanding. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Stratus Vineyards Chardonnay Amphora 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Several factors are here at play, namely lees but also vessel so that the mineral aspect exhumed and manifested as texture makes us think about place. Spices run amok and that housing continues to occupy the impression that is distinctly Ontario chardonnay. Bottled with lees would be the reason behind the feeling and also the fact that it has been aged in amphora. First edition, fermented and aged in the clay vessels, influenced by Rene Barbier Jr. says winemaker Dean Stoyka. “It really respects the fruit and causes some restraint in the wine,” he explains. “Giving some salinity and richness on the mid palate.” A unique way to make chardonnay indeed. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Along with cabernet franc this chardonnay was also tucked into and raised in amphora, no surprise because these have been two varieties suited up for experimental tests. Very late harvested (November 4th) from the 2021 vintage and specs are not very elevated for this wine. Moderate across the board and yet it is the clay that defines what we nose, taste and feel. Wet clay, a preserve with notable vegetal and savoury elements, banana esters, soft wool and ultimately a new set of varietal parameters imagined. One assumes this is bottled with a similar amount of lees as the R & D Stratus OG chardonnay but the clarity and transparency of the AC suggests something other, or wise. All in all a conundrum frankly, jury still out, much left to figure, pilot, trial, error and decide. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted September 2023

Maenad Wine Company’s Yvonne Irvine

Maenad Wine Co. Chardonnay Skin Contact 2021, VQA St. David’s Bench

Orange chardonnay is a thing and this leads by example. Cloudy, hazy and yet much cleaner than the visuals might suggest. From Yvonne Irvine’s virtual wine project, made at Creekside and sold through the retail license at Marynissen Estates. Breaks down regular conventions like busy beavers taking apart wood and making their dens. To be honest skin contact wines don’t get much more delicious than this, especially from chardonnay, fruit having been “borrowed” from the vineyard owned and farmed at Niagara College. Full malolactic, lees stirring, older French wood for seven months. The richness, roundness and cozy-fuzzy feeling on the palate shows just how well this turned out. Should be so interesting to see how this ages – can’t hep but think it will go through the process with ease. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Stefan Neumann MS

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

As full, rich and riveting a style of Niagara chardonnay as there has ever been. Ripeness at peak, wood in full glory, generously yet judiciously used and the overall effect is something usually reserved for what many will think of as a story written over centuries by Beaune chardonnay. There is delicacy here and if this chardonnay were a book it would be a page turner, which says this vintage in particular should likely appeal to a great and wide audience. Make no mistake though because a wine like this is comfortably affordable to the haves. That it turns out to be a Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling made chardonnay from a top warmth vintage comes as little surprise. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Morgan Juniper – 16 Mile Cellar

16 Mile Vineyard Chardonnay Civility 2018, VQA Beamsville Bench

Just carries and emits the feel of classic chardonnay winemaking, without hesitation or equivocation to result in something so knowably Niagara. The wood is on the weighty side and maturity has begun to see this wine acting its age. “I really think it’s important to honour the process of patience in winemaking,” says winemaker Morgan Juniper. The opportunity is not always available to do that but the ripeness here presented the proposition on a platter. “This wine is like waiting for a child to actualize their full potential,” she adds. “I wanted to push the boundaries to see this actualize at a later date.” As it has and the window is fully open with another year or two of enjoying this light lees-affected, barrel-aged and now of a chardonnay at this all in butterscotch stage. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Friday, Saturday and Media room tastings

Trius Chardonnay Showcase Wild Ferment 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

A matter of factor decided by two essential aspects, the first being this chardonnay’s wild ferment and the second surely vintage. Turbidity endured and yeasty ebullition understood are how Wild Ferment ’21 co-opt and conjoin for aromas dedicated and unique to the Trius distinction. Scents of tropical fruit bathing in opaque waters cleansed by energy and movement to result in seriously complex chardonnay. Some spice tipping the tongue and tripping the palate fantastic for machinations of dreams and fantasy. Curious 2021, wild and woolly of texture with the confusion in delivery of a great part of the fun. The back label reminds that the fruit source continues to be Watching Tree Vineyard. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Rosehall Run Chardonnay JCR Rosehall Vineyard 2021, VQA Prince Edward County

More of a restrained, stoic and while not reductive as chardonnay per se there is a wall erected between aromatics and early joy. A JCR dictated by its extract and structure, a compound butter in hard shell, surely not one in delivery of early returns. The crispiest, crunchiest, saltiest and most savoury of all the Dan Sullivan draws from the oh so important PEC Rosehall Vineyard. Try not to blink for many chardonnay that change straight away but with Rosehall that is far from the case. Twenty minutes in a glass and plus ça change, as they say. Immovably youthful chardonnay, stark and as a contrast, so sown, sworn, authoritative and stone cold of its own accord. There are 2021s from Ontario what will last comfortably in states of fickle freshness for 15-plus years. This could very well be one of them. Drink 2025-2031. Tasted July 2024

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Tradition 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Warm and inviting, textural like silk, some glycerol and running soothingly smooth from start to finish shows a different look and separates itself from other vintages. Kelly Mason’s ability to change it up while still maintaining an always high level is a chardonnay testament to a team that ranks with the hardest working makers in Niagara Peninsula show business. There are clean yeasty notes, like sourdough in the proofing stage and subtle baking spice with texture truly divining the directive for high quality “classico” Niagara chardonnay. Never gives up or in, never too hot or cold, a great vintage in Mason’s estimation, but then again, “anything was better than ’21.” Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Taylor Emerson and Jonathan McLean – Black Bank Hill

Black Bank Hill Chardonnay Runway 2023, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

Alex Baines – Hidden Bench

Hidden Bench Chardonnay Unfiltered 2022, VQA Beamsville Bench

Say 10 months in French barrel, a warm vintage to coax out full concentration though “bunch weight and tonnage were actually lower than 2021,” tells winemaker Alex Baines. “More on the average” and yet this Estate level is all that 2022 could be and more, of fruit so silkily rendered, starred gastronomy plated and proffered as if by sous vide and reverse seared white meat, asparagus, salsify and yucca for one of HB’s most sweetly vegetal and succulently situated chardonnays. Gentle spice, firm grasp of the Beamsville Bench, extract accumulated at the peak of the proverbial chart and elastic tannin. All fine, refined and stylish. Last tasted blind at i4C, July 2024

Full and wholly substantial chardonnay wth fruit juiciness, acidity and intensity. Never relents, takes a break or falls away. Keeps a straight line and follows the progression to a vanishing point. The perspective here is focused and linear. Top “Villages” example. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted blind at NWACs24, June 2024

Dancing Swallows Chardonnay “Composite Number” Unfiltered 2019, VQA Ontario

Maturing, acetic and yet quite complex aromatics offer more than curious intrigue. Über cool climate, variegate ripenesses in the fruit and the acetone incites the proverbial shower curtain comment. All that said there is promise and even pleasure to be had. Tasted July 2024

Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

Kelly Mason and Brooke Husband – Domaine Queylus

Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Réserve du Domaine 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Kelly Mason has hit the proverbial nail on the chardonnay head with her focused and balanced work with 2022 fruit to create what will forever exists as a quintessential Réserve du Domaine. The sort that will linger for years and be compared with when subsequent vintages are produced over the next 10-15 years. Remember the 2022 they will say. Ideal posit tug and a correct split between ripe fruit and stony goodness, also considered as mineral wealth to equip the wine with structure and subsequently longevity. All this despite a slight miss on acidity, which really turns out to be a thing of vintage. Brava team Mason. Sometimes there are misses when we taste blind. Tasted July 2024

Oak all over, toasty notes in the orchard fruit aromas, mid-palate texture and no glissade but instead a settling on the palate. A bit heavy though just a year’s time will integrate the cloud. Lacks the right kind of acidity to really make it sing. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

With Alphonse Potel – Domaine de Bellene

Maison Roche De Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022, AC Bourgogne

A vieilles vignes at Bourgogne AOC level that proves the ’22 point just how universal these wines should be admired and can be your friend. Bellene’s is luxe, focused and balanced. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Sharp chardonnay from Nicolas Potel’s Maison Roche de Bellene out of 2022, lightly reductive, tightly wound and beaming with energetic light. Got a buzz and a vitality about it, with old vines concentration keeping pace and developing texture as we speak. This has been a good sku in the past but Potel has hit the proverbial varietal nail on the head this time around. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Nadia and Ilya Senchuk – Leaning Post

Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

What was once a true matter of 50-50 barrel to steel raising has morphed and is now another matter. A concrete matter for today’s 50, full of fruit and fuller after its cementing, a posit tug still, even though wood and steel no longer play the push-pull game. More about fruit versus lees, tension so tight the rope never seems to budge, but it sways and slings within inches of itself. A bloody poignant vintage in spite of warmth, contiguous from its wild ferment and winemaking truth. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Matthias Messner – Kellerei Bolzen

Kellerei Bozen Chardonnay Bolzano 2022, Südtirol Alto Adige DOC

Really hot year tells Matthias Messner for a steel only raised chardonnay on lees from vines at 550-600m of elevation. Close to the south of Balzano, “a windy area” with cooling temperatures at nigt. Straight as a marksman’s arrow, cracker sharp and the sort of chardonnay to pierce your heart. Quenching, satisfying and Südtirol perfumed. So drinkable. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Has been three vintages since getting back to tasting this archetypal Südtirol-Alto Adige chardonnay from top quality and quantity cooperative producer Bolzano. Can’t go wrong with the style or the effect, of no oaks given and the most lemony sunshine one could arrive hoping to find. This is a terrific vintage for a chardonnay we could all afford to drink a boatload of. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Boschendal Chardonnay Appellation Series 2021, WO Elgin

“It’s easy to make quality chardonnay,” says cellar master Jacques Viljoen, “but hard to make sellable quality. Also scaleable but Boschendal seems to have accomplished all three with their high level tiered Appellation Series Chardonnay. What could be called a 2021 of dramatic restraint, of tension but never nervous, of grip but no abuse of power. Brilliant chardonnay and Ontario consumers should be happy to know it will become available in the upcoming VINTAGES September Classics. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Lydia Tomek – Ravine Vineyard

Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, VQA Niagara-on-the Lake

All Niagara-on-the-Lake fruit, from three vineyards and with just a wee bit of musqué inclusion to give Ravine’s chardonnay that gentle spirit and floral lift. Just that subtle hint of jasmine flower, oxalic acid lemony scent of purslane and faint anise of chervil. Spends 18 months in a majority of old wood which does develop texture to find this somewhere comfortably between pillowy and elastic tension. You may not always have you’re best stuff but you can still contribute admirably to the team. Though 2021 is not the recent vintage to set Niagara chardonnay up for its greatest balance, “you take everything you’re given and make the best of it,” reassures winemaker Lydia Tomek. Which she clearly does to deliver a chardonnay to keep the dream alive and the streak unbroken. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench

True to Bench chardonnay sprit and energy, standing upright, demanding to be noticed and in turn we are paying attention. A harvest of demand forces the team to focus and pay extra attention, to do everything possible for greater returns. Picking and sorting strategies finds the best available fruit to create something cool, gelid, succulent and shockingly Chablis like. Should age longer than first anticipated. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Small Lot just has to be the ownver of the lowest of low alcohol number as it pertains to the Beamsville Bench and at 12.6 percent the conversion rate falls under the categorical auspices of magic. This is not a light chardonnay but it is a lithe, elastic and effusive one. Aromatically demure yet soft and almost caressing, without peppery (and sharp apple) bites or jolting in any way. The palate runs a similar course, gracing with soft and round flavours that are easy and stretched. Lovely and amenable 2021 here from Emma Garner and one to savour slowly, in a calm and tranquil setting. Drink 2023-2025. Tasted July 2023

Katie Dickieson – Peller Estates

Peller Estates Private Reserve Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

A factor of chardonnay and also musqué interplanting, unique for Niagara and smartly put to a 50-50 ferment between steel and oak. What follows is 12 months in barrel and mostly no malolactic fermentation though says Katie Dickieson, “some might happen.” Clear, clean, precise, pristine and from an ideal vintage to make this style of direct, ready to rock chardonnay. Beautiful. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Westcott Chardonnay Estate 2022, VQA Niagara Escarpment

Wild ferment and malolactic happenstance, “and if it occurs simultaneously,” says winemaker Casey Kulczyk, “it’s fine, I want this.” Barrel fermented, super turbid going in and also desired. Welcome to 2022, a vintage for which its maker forgets and leaves everything behind because adversity and challenges always puts one on their toes. Cold snap in winter, vine damage and a 60-plus percent loss of buds (on chardonnay). Great quality nonetheless, a new or different estate mix to result in a more linear, tight, bright and for Westcott, extreme iteration. Yet this arrives brilliantly, very young, not itinerantly fruity, but sharp and hyper real. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Tawse Chardonnay Quarry Road Vineyard 2021, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Cave Spring Estate Blanc De Blancs, VQA Beamsville Bench

Classic, sharp, intense and ideal. A ripper, “and I love that” says Stephen Gash. Dry as the desert in such a plainfully proverbial way. Scintillant extraordinaire. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Domaine Des Deux Roches Saint Veran Vieilles Vignes 2022, Bourgogne AC

From the estate’s flagship old vines holdings in the village of Saint-Véran on the slopes set below the famous two rock faces (Deux Roches). They happen to be the largest holder of hectarage and as such this is one of six cuvées in the Véran. As crunchy as any in the Bourgogne Mâconnais, or will ever be, with crisp bites and never dissipating tension. Sharp, representative of great value with several Premier Cru coming to mind and a vintage quality to solidify and formalize the overall trenchant intention, consolidation and voice. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted at i4C, July 2024

Violette Bachelder and Mary Delaney – Bachelder Vineyards

Bachelder Wismer Wingfield Chardonnay 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

By this time Wismer-Wingfield is the standard Bachelder chardonnay, the one of great acumen and knowledge accrued, the most middle of the road of the Toussaint releases. This is said with greatest of compliment because there is no substitute for experience and Thomas has long since figured out how to make this most high level and consistent chardonnay. No lack for all this and more from 2021, of a wine where fruit and wood share equal space but both exist on the same footing. As always the presence of waxy, aerosol and resinous notes that chardonnay for Wismer-Wingfiled always displays. There is something to be said for the same old. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted December 2023 and at i4C July 2024

Leaning Post Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard 2021, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore

“I fought the grapes…and the grapes almost won,” quips Ilya Senchuk. We should note that the the temps are/were five to six degrees cooler in Grimsby/Senchuk Vineyard and so he and Nadia feel quite strong about their success for cool climate chardonnay out of the adversarial vintage. A “war of attrition” perhaps and some losses but in the end more wins, but you have to buy and taste these wines to find out. Ilya agrees that sometimes “you have to get out of the fruit zone,” and not just with respect to pinot noir. The mineral aptitude and stony goodness of this cracker ’21 Senchuk chardonnay will not be denied. Not to mention at 12.5 percent alcohol we need to look past lean and consider magical conversion rates. See for yourself. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Cloudsley Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Always a mix of Wismer fruit, of Wingfield and Foxcroft, same bat fermentation and same bat channel. Wild ferment that is, followed by 18 months in French wood with one-quarter or so being new barrels. Balance of the old and new, the buttery and the grippy, the soft and the profound. A recurring fruit theme for 2022 with less tension and tightening as compared to say ’19 and ’21. Getable as chardonnay though persistent in its inherent cool climate origins. Still it will attract more and more consumers who hold preconceived notions about the idea of chardonnay. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

John Szabo M.S., Godello and Malivoire’s Shiraz Mottiar

Malivoire Chardonnay Mottiar 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench

In a state of grace resolve on course to deliver its best at every step of development. In the heart of the matter now, primary yet moving forward with finespun caramel right ahead. So well conceived and made to honour its origins. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

Sure there is a full and subtly opulent quality to the Mottiar 2020 but from the beginning there is confidence and balance. Always this way but ’20 is special in that regard, comfortable in its skin and so sure of what it brings to the chardonnay table. Beamsville Bench beauty and bounty, acidity so sweet and developed it feels like it has not yet acted just like this before. A hint of paraffin and beeswax, a lilt and a rise in beats here and there but most of all freshness and that aforementioned surety of conviction. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted July 2023

Blomidon Brut Réserve NV, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

Dean Stoyka and J-L Groux – Stratus Vineyards

And there were visits

Stratus Vineyards at Bar Ruffino

Stratus Brut Nature Zero Dosage 2013, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Stratus Chardonnay Reserve 2002, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Harvested between October 4th and 6th which for J-L Groux was early, akin to harvesting in early September in the Stratus world of today. Barrel fermented for 350 days in a mix of new, second and third fill French wood. Low(ish) acid and high pH vintage from the vineyard purchased just two years prior. The team went about immediately reducing yields from eight to two tonnes per hectare, “direct to concentration,” says J-L, who at the time partnered with Peter Gamble to make this rare iteration labeled as a Reserve wine. They selected barrels for this premium chardonnay and truth can feel counterintuitive because many years after having tasted the (Non-Reserve) 2002 it is this ultra varietal bottle that shows impossible freshness. Persistent in reserve, laden with grapefruit and as much texture as wood is want to impart. Well, actually a bit less than expected but as a chardonnay expression with the same fruit the special barrels chosen have come about with such a different result. Less preserved lemon, wax, late bitters and oxidation. Therefore sharper and fruitier while in the end likely just what Peter and Jean-Laurent were looking for. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Stratus Vineyards Retrospective at Bar Ruffino

Stratus Chardonnay 2009, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Late pick (November 10th), high acid, smoky and smouldering chardonnay, connecting it to a course of action for those that are made today. A precursor and one that the winemakers surely look back at and draw upon for current preoccupations. Especially Dean Stoyka who stirred some lees and learned how to get his chardonnay through malo during his Niagara College educational days. Looking at 2009 helps to consider the sparkling wine program because the specs and style of this wine are clearly inspirational towards that end. Last tasted July 2024

Comes off like a white blend, aka Stratus White but this is the outright, unchaste vintage talking. Winemaker J-L Groux crafted three wines with viticulturist Paul Hobbs. Here they split the project 50/50 with Hobbs including wild yeast fermentation and whole bunch pressing and J-L adding short skin contact, controlled yeasts and no whole bunch pressing. From extreme low yields, this one puts on a show after only 10 months in barrel. High on aroma, brazen in texture, ambient in flavour bites. Very Niagara if inexactly Chardonnay. Tasted March 2014

Stratus Chardonnay Bottled with Lees 2015, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

Medium acid and low pH year, picked across September which is early (and necessary because acids would have waned) but what matters most are the lees kept in bottle. To develop aromas over time and ward off oxidation. So unlike the 2009 tasted side by each, here from a “winter damage year” tells Dean Stoyka. Small crop, somewhere between 88 and 91 tonnes (the number changes form time to time), average heat and precipitation. Serious chardonnay concentration, fruit persistent, in great shape and a better wine today than it showed as seven years ago. Last tasted July 2024

The 2014 vintage was essentially the first year when barrel lees would be left in the bottle and my how conservative this ’15 really was as compared to an evolution that culminates (currently) with the full on lees filled chardonnay vintage. Quite the opulent vintage mixed with aromatics still morphing, developing lees, brash and blushing by 40 per cent new oak, complimented by generous acidity. Showing with controlled drama and though the yields were low (only 88 tonnes) there is something quite special about this emotionally charged, vivid, scarce and remarkable chardonnay. Last tasted July 2021

Stratus Amphora Chardonnay 2022, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake

“Slightly, maybe three times more oxidative than a barrel,” explains Dean Stoyka as it pertains to amphorae. Kind of surprising but then again there needs to be a good reason for choosing these tight-grained Tava Amphora baked at higher temperatures, especially as compared to Georgian Qvevri. More oxidation means more lees and more lees means kept freshness plus the ability for aromas to develop into complexities over time. As for a a second kick at the chardonnay in amphora can by Stratus well then assessment out of expectation also triples and the learning curve realized by Stoyka becomes three times the fun. Where is the reference point? Who cares because the nurturing of this fruit and palate caress conspire to create a feeling, as if you have known this wine your whole life. A matter of great positivity and understanding. Dios mio, man. Longevity should never be questioned and reasons why never argued. Keep at it, keep on keeping on. Drink 2024-2030. Tasted July 2024

Hillebrand Trius Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2000, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Nutty, flor oxidative and 24 years of age. From a very cool year and J-L Groux’s roots as a Niagara winemaker. Reluctantly fresh and honestly a good showing at this ripe old age easily into a time when the ideas and thoughts of mortality and finality can’t help but creep in. Though the wine would not shine to the dispassionate it does cause a stir of interest to a group of writers, influencers and sommeliers, all happy to drink one glass. Kudos to the Stratus team for offering up this cool piece of chardonnay history. Tasted July 2024

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

The Tower at Dobbin Estate

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Blend 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

From a cool vintage, long one though and cabernets cropped at the lowest of the low – less than one tonne per acre. ”A drinkable style,” says Peter Gamble and “I like the ‘19s from Niagara for that reason.” Pretty much a 50-50 final blend, almost too easy if by design and immensely popular with those who know, but also those who do not necessarily know the how or why. This is not a Caymus drinker’s red but it will inform and in turn impress they who should do better than their muscle memory habits of consuming over ripened, elevated alcohol, sugary reds. The ’19 is not particularly structured as a cabernet squared though the modelo drinking window is a good one. Last tasted July 2024

First release for the new, high-end estate found on the Twenty Mile Bench with this stylish, Right Bank in make-up cabernet franc (inclusive of 15 percent merlot) having been sourced from a mix of the Homefront along with Creek Shores and Four Mile Creek. Oenologists Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble have consulted from the beginning and this is what would be considered a “Peninsula” wine because the fruit is drawn from three very different micro-climates. Sure seems like single site iterations are the future once each have been trialled and understood but for now the mix makes for a treat of layering and integration. Chic, full, substantial and generously oaky in the classic Sperling-Gamble style for full-bodied but never over the top Bordeaux reds for Niagara. The wood lends sweetness, fine chocolate ganache and a smoothness that is a hallmark of their wines. They did not go for structured broke in this inaugural bottle but the result is dreamy and leaves an impression, without seemingly trying to be impressive. No doubt a Napa Valley feel here which is always a compliment as it pertains to Niagara reds. The only qualm is the lack of franc-ness but that feels somewhat intentional. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted April 2024

Tasting at Dobbin Estate

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Riesling 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Classic and balanced, concentration meeting at the intersection where a righteous mix of sugars and acidities form layers from. Vineyard blocks are what define the intention and i turn the results of this riesling. Nothing overt, neither by salinity or sapidity, though their are hints, shadows and subtleties indicated by both. And so the requiem for this riesling’s success lies in its ability to please without speaking loud or acting with any sort of impunity or demand. This is why people who know nothing about riesling will gravitate to enjoying this as a glass of a special white wine. And those who get it will be hard pressed to label or pigeon-hole it as Ontario. The inclusion of some botrytized grapes has something to do with this. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Dobbin Estate Vineyard & Winery Riesling 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A much warmer vintage for all of Niagara and with riesling the difference between 2019 and 2020 is truly the proverbial might and day. Almost an about face style with the ripest and juiciest ripe fruit, lower sugar and (less botrytis) but truth be told there is more richness and flesh in 2020. Intensity by implosion and higher sugar number (15-16 g/L) as compared top 10.5 fro 2019. Unrelenting flavours and a profile more Germanic than that more chiseled and muscular ’19. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Ed Madronich holding court at Flat Rock Cellars

Flat Rock Cellars

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Foundation Series 2022, VQA Niagara Peninsula

The separation between Foundation and Gravity is essentially barrel selection with the winemaking being the same. So specific to this place, rusty and busy tart fruit, a mix of plum and cranberry, always curious, always complete. Gently and fluidly volatile, crunchy at its peaks and low rumbles in the valleys. A 5,000 case production (on average) as compared to 1,000 of Gravity. Never a question that this is and represents Flat Rock. Last tasted at i4C, July 2024

No questioning the ripeness on all fronts, to the edge and precariously so with maturity and also a glycerol meets acetic set of circumstances. As such there is a raw cookie dough note, also potpourri and natural medicinals. A very specific tang carries the flavours and the sensation of style is duly noted. Gets chalky and the acidity takes over on the backside of this distinguishable pinot noir. Drink 2024-2025. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Gravity 2020, Twenty Mile Bench VQA

Warm vintage and about as high-toned that Gravity as pinot noir will ever be. A tight and to be frank also austere iteration that still remains and persists in this state of the unforgiven. If a Gravity has ever needed for time than this 2020 is certainly up for debate. Muscular, concentrated, broad shouldered, full of texture and buzz in its extremities. There is plenty of substance and so when the wine settles in it will do what intention asked it to do. Last tasted July 2024

Jury’s still out on the season’s relationship between pinot noir, Niagara and especially the tattooed effect painted by the Escarpment’s benches. Gravity ’20 is still showing some early earthy, fermentative aromatic volatility by way of bread dough, tar, strawberry red fruit and coniferous-evergreen energy. Some stem inclusion surely, an early pick on acidity in a warm year, strength in maceration and equally pressed so that the Ontario greens also come through on the flexed rope of tannins. Like hastily hand-stretched pizza dough popping holes, or pulling liquorice too fast and causing cracks. Gravity is meant to fall softly downwards, gracefully and gently. The sour accents speak another language, a bit unfamiliar and yet the track record of this wine deserves respect and time. Jury will be hung and a new one will come back in two years for next assessment. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted October 2022

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Gravity 2010, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Really warm vintage, one of those in that time that ripened fruit to the max and so pinot noir went where it so boldly wished to go. One of those substantial examples that has surprisingly lasted deeper into its tenure than assessment of that vintage would have predicted. Good showing today and some duck prosciutto would work really well alongside. Last tasted July 2024

Reels in Twenty Mile Bench fruit in a warm vintage as well if not better than any of its peers. Founder Ed Madronich is clearly slope and soil obsessed and this Pinot Noir is a study in topography and geology. To paraphrase Madronich, it’s ”more Pommard than Volnay, in a deeper and more masculine way than the Estate bottling.” Pinot barrels most representative of the Gravity style were chosen for the final blend, in this case noted by woodsy black cherry and spiced root vegetable. “Get a little savagery in your life.” Tasted twice, April and December 2013

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Foundation 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Middle road traveled, taken and projected for chardonnay definitive of a 25-year study by Flat Rock makers to arrive at this time. Lovely, juicy, prolific and in its Flat Rock way also a quintessential Twenty Mile Bench example of chardonnay What more needs to be said? Last tasted July 2024

Foundation Series: Our Classics redefines the Flat Rock entry to market and gateway for their chardonnay. If you’ve been tasting these wines for a decade or more you’ll recognize these aromas from a 2021 that resonates of the house style. Inviting, somewhere between vanilla crème frâiche and lemon crème brûlée, soft and demure. Creamy palate texture, a swirl of butterscotch ripple curd and easy drinking all the way through. Many will find this soft but it’s best considered as a comfort food kind of chardonnay. Drink 2023-2024. Tasted October 2023

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay The Rusty Shed 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

If the Foundation delivers a quintessential Flat Rock chardonnay experience than The Rusty Shed takes it further. More substantial fruit and aromatic muskiness if less immediate joy and juiciness. No shock because RS is a wine that can and will age with this being one of those vintages that fit the bill. Reminds of 2011 or 2013, or maybe a combination of the two with the modern world of love and varietal development taking chardonnay from FR to new heights. Will hit the zone sometime later this year or early next. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay The Rusty Shed 2013, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A more than appropriate vintage to pour side by each with 2021 because they share that Flat Rock Rusty Shed affinity of chardonnay needing some time to open up before delivering the juicy, gelid and fleshy character they will almost always eventually do. The ’21 will get to this place and few Niagara or Bench chards can go light years ahead into such a place of beauty. Just knew 2013 would get there and what a joy to be here with it. Last tasted July 2024

It’s as if this label had bided all this time to be the benefactor of 2013 fruit. This Rusty Shed, this 20 miler with the track record to age, a wine that sheds baby fat over a 10 year mineral through echelon stratum, in ways few other peninsula to bench chardonnay can do. This Jay Johnston handled surfer of a wine, buoyant and balanced, centred and able to withstand turbulence, oscillation and tidal sway. Here with sumptuous and spiralled fruit gaged in lode intervals and a tartness held in lope and line by a membrane of extract and tannin. Best ever. Showing well, repeatedly and to forecasted repute. Impressing critics and consumers alike. Bravo. Drink 2016-2025. Tasted June 2016

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling Nadja’s Vineyard 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

A savoury, mineral and waxy Nadja as riesling, citrus as high and spritzed with energy as it will ever be. Not a vintage of concentration but rather one that is structured and so bloody specific to the vineyard higher up upon the estate’s step of the Niagara Escarpment. Flat Rock is perhaps the only estate with this level of elevation change, as much as a 10 story building from the this top vineyard to the (pinot noir) bottom. A place of air flow, equidistant to the lake and to the top of the Escarpment. Crisp, crunchy, tart and high level intensity, even for Najda. Need to wait a few years to see what next steps it will take. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling Nadja’s Vineyard 2006, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Tough vintage but are they not the ones that find the magic of aging to deliver a wine like this? Phenolic and mineral as the saltiest of Nadja rieslings, ultra aromatic and a bit yeasty but the vintage had much to do with this. The rest is soil and location, up on the Twenty Mile bench on a second step up towards the crest of the Niagara Escarpment. Crunchy in every way, citrus as always but accentuated here (as it will repeat 15 years forward with 2021) and as Nadja, so very recognizable. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Chey Ryan Crawford’s Fried Zucchini Blossoms

Le Clos Jordanne

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Villages 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

A few more red fleshed drops of fruit after only three months further in bottle. Fine impression gained from these Jordan Bench blocks acceding a seamless layering and all is right in this Villages world. Last tasted July 2024

Off the top a more structured pinot noir vintage for Le Clos Jordanne and the aromatics are not shy to announce their swaggered arrival. Bigger bones and flesh hanging tightly, tannins very much apart of the mix, holding firm, lightly chalky in constitution and a notable wine meant for aging, surely be design. Very different to the 2019 and 2020 LCJ pinots which is both curious and effective. Drink 2025-2028. Tasted April 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Claystone Terrace 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

This is a first kiss with and assessment of Claystone Terrace aboard the Twenty Mile Bench which Thomas Bachelder sets the record straight for how it is a contiguous tract connected with the terroir of the Jordan Bench. What it shares with Le Grand Clos Vineyard is a west to east gradation that moves from the structured to the blowsy. In other words every block acts differently but also incrementally and when their individual barrels are assembled they are done so to make the best and most balanced wine with nuts, bits, bolts and pieces drawn out of each gradation. From 2021 the softer aspects shine on because austerity and tension just don’t hold court as strong as they might in some cooler and also much warmer vintages. More middle road (for Claystone specifically) and the beneficiaries of such a pinot noir are all of us. Still another year will soften the last of the tannins and gripping tension. Drink 2025-2029. Tasted July 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Le Grand Clos 2021, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Chey Ryan Crawford’s Salmon Sack

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Villages 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Something about the Goldilocks vintage for chardonnay brings the three LCJ wines closer together. Villages may lack the complexities of Claystone Terrace and Le Grand Clos but its juiciness, open aromas, flavours and texture are all there. When you consider price there is no debate in how much value this offers and the gentle spice masala on all parts of the palate are really special. The attack of CT and le roi cru block LGC are there, albeit here less grippy and weighty, but Villages gives all that you want and need. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

Kerri Crawford – Le Clos Jordanne

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Claystone Terrace 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

The Claystone Terrace attacks direct into vision, up the olfactory and drilling into the cerebral cortex, no holds barred, nor does it wait to express anything it needs to say. Like a blast of sunlight straight out of the west on a late July afternoon, not blinding but warm and inviting, though not what would be considered subtle. This speaks from the vineyard in a more substantial way than Villages and also Le Grand Clos, if not quite at the level of aromatic and textural complexity of the highest tier, signature chardonnay. CT scans your senses and takes hold of them. It is anything but tripping the light but it is quite fantastic. Captain Claystone fantastic. The bomb for 2021 as a Le Clos Jordanne chardonnay. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Le Grand Clos 2021, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Feels like a bit more easterly block fruit from barrels chosen for the 2021 Le Grand Clos because there is a softness (though far from blowsiness) about the mouthfeel and mellow flavours. The Claystone exhibits more drama and while complexities are on par it is this LCJ that should actually be consumed sooner rather than later. Thinking however that more folks would love and appreciate this style from this vintage. Last tasted July 2024.

A bit sweet it needs saying straight away from wood aging that mixes with fruit quite ripe though not seductively so. Surely cool climate and well judged but the barrels do lend some oily texture and weight to this otherwise fine chardonnay. Solid mid-weight example. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024

Westcott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve 2022, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Like Block 76, also from the home farm of 26 acres on the Vinemount Ridge. Warmer parameters for richer and well-developed chardonnay cut through with fine chiseling because of the limestone bedrock beneath the slim soils for what can be best described as Westcott salinity. Reverberations and consequences are a mix of quantifiable component and marbling, also with thanks to the mix of 95 and 96 clones. Reserve always comes from the same rows of two blocks and while it may have once been a barrel selection, over time it has come to abide by the strictest regimen of only those rows. A retro Reserve if you will with a return to fully celebrating specific fruit no matter the vintage or circumstances. What separates this chardonnay is more than concentration, but rather the underlying salinity that is more pronounced that that of the Block 76. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Estate 2016, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Amazing how age can be a graceful and beautiful thing and the ideal truly applies to Westcott’s Estate chardonnay. The ’16 was made by then winemaker Arthur Harder and subsequently blended and bottled by Casey Kulzyck. Now in a pretty good place, fine and refined, Still some linger of primary fruit. Last tasted July 2024

This is one of the first near-premium chardonnays to hit the market from 2016 and so a decision needs to be quickly made if the style is more vintage or house in origin. There really isn’t any estate precedence for this superabundance of fruit on the “normale,” like Christmas coming early or Niagara peaches appearing in June. The ripeness goes beyond freestone fruit and into the tropical realms occupied by mango and pineapple. There is no denying the nectarous and appetizing nature so I’d like to think it’s really a seasonal somewhereness that drives the druthers. Drink this young and with some poached seafood. It will satisfy the pairing. Drink 2017-2019. Tasted July 2017

Chef Tim Mackiddie’s Scallops, Cavatelli and Chardonnay – At Butlers’ Grant, Wetscott Vineyards

Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2022, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Old Vines refers to the 1989 planting of Clone 76 on a 5.08 acre block on the northwest side of the 43 acre Vineland Bench property. The long and rectangular chardonnay block culminates on the southeastern side at Butlers’ Workshops and is paramount for a site that was a grower’s vineyard up until the Westcotts purchased the land that immediately abuts the Bruce Trail. So many c’s are apt descriptors for this chardonnay; copacetic, coalescing, conditioned and commendable. From a recalcitrant vintage in some ways, adversarial and short of crop but the chosen fruit seemed eager to please and access feels easy. Concentration is impressive and immediate gratification is on offer. Extract and tannin take this to another level and so the probabilities are positive for a chardonnay you may choose to age. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butler’s Grant Carolyn’s Block 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

From the block closest to the house planted to the 667 clone. Youth still the understatement, vintage accessibility be recognized and quickly cast aside. A mix of flintiness and delicacy when rich and fat could have been this pinot noir’s everything. Not in this case. Last tasted July 2024

From riesling to chardonnay and now pinot noir, all planted in 1988 under the name of Butler’s Grant and here the pinot is dedicated to Westcott proprietor Carolyn Hurst. A clone first iteration, or at least one owning as much as site itself because vinous, resinous and intense is what oozes from this Twenty Mile Bench wine. Hard to find this much varietal expression so reminiscent of some Beaune counterparts because austerity, intensity and implosive behaviour are all compounded with tough love, seriousness and respect. The vintage gives and is in turn captured for a wine that will command your undivided attention, in part because some suspected whole bunch fermentation just seemed like recssecity is the mother of invention. Need is the primary driving force behind Carolyn’s strong-willed pinot noir. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted August 2023

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butler’s Grant Carolyn’s Block 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

The 2020 Carolyn’s Block is something joyous but get a scent of (a now well-aged) 2019 and the aromatic world changes dramatically. A vintage advantage and clearly a pinot noir in need of time to set it aromas straight. From eccentricity to complexity, wildly spiced and now entrancing. An affinity with Cuesta the the south and Hanck to the north yet perfectly idiosyncratic in between. Some sweet seduction, ripe acidity and organza texture. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2019, Twenty Mile Bench

Funny aroma to begin, paint or something metallic but also tomato purée. Verdant as well, chalky and chewy, ready to rock and roll. Something amiss or at least distracting but there is this great palate presence and structural appeal. Silkiness and wood define the finish. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted blind at NWAC2021, October 2021

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2020, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Elevated concentration, of course, but an immediate burst of energy and immediacy really command attention. Spice and potpourri, full and up front, unabashed, without hesitation, standing vertical to be noticed. Clone is 828 planted in 1988 on the southwest corner of the Vineland Bench property. Explicit varietal assemblage curving to the substantial to decide the outcome for pinot noir designed to please. The gratification is underscored by a mineral underlay to say that tine is on side. Two more great years and two to for more with positive secondary characteristics. Last tasted July 2024

Dark fruit, ambitious and tannic. Bold and structured pinot noir from a hot summer clime. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted blind at #NWACS24, June 2024.

Westcott Vineyards Pinot Noir Butlers’ Grant Old Vines 2019, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

The second harvest of this block foreshadows what will be concluded as a dramatic difference between the ’20 and this ’19 residing in the arena of the vivid. A level of chalkiness and therefore structure now explain why tasting this early would have been confusing to deduce how clone and place will conspire for great pronouncement. This Twenty Mile (or Vineland) Bench geology directs the show and old vines concentration does the rest. Who knows, maybe Carolyn’s Block will act like this 28 years from now. For now Butlers’ Grant Old Vines is the one in command. Last tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Brilliant Traditional Method Blanc De Blancs, VQA Vinemount Ridge

Winemaker Casey Kulczyk explains how chardonnay is always picked at a minimum 19 brix which not only influences but extends flavours and also exaggerates texture. Plenty of acidity mind you though the complex profile wins over all else. Sees 30 months on lees and makes every iota of their use to accentuate and autolyze for increased extensibility, plasticity and the aforementioned flavour. Yes this shows smoother texture and strengthened chains of mousse. Westcott’s sparkling processes are at the head of the game. Drink 2024-2027. Tasted July 2024

Westcott Vineyards Brilliant Traditional Method Blanc De Noirs, VQA Vinemount Ridge

As with the Blanc de Blancs the pick is done at a minimum 19 brix and lees aging time is 30 months. The mix of chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier shows off ample freshness and sharp acidity, leading to boundless energy tethered with creamy flavours. Red fruit prominent but the truth lies in mellifluous textures ruling the day. Drink 2024-2026. Tasted July 2024

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godello

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